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Let SHOP guide you as you explore London. Read about Teatum Jones, an exciting women’s label available at Liberty (page 44), Barnyard, a recently opened no-bookings restaurant (page 61), and much more. SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you everything you need to know about your chosen destination, including the essential stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit. For the very latest information, please visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the website. And don’t forget to download the Global Blue mobile app!
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Welcome to London
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Contributors
Dominique Fenn Fashion writer Dominique Fenn contributed our Wool’s Worth feature for this edition, which looks at the high-quality natural fabric available from British manufacturers. Dominique studied fashion journalism at the London College of Fashion and she considers London to be the most exciting city in the world. globalblue.com
MaricorMaricar Design duo MaricorMaricar created this season's cover for SHOP London Style. The intricate embroidered design refects our feature on page 44 about the fashion labels that are proudly using British-made fabrics. The red, white and blue stitching represents the colours of the Union Jack fag. MaricorMaricar has stitched artwork for Toms and Wired Magazine UK among others. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
Katy Young Katy Young has been a beauty journalist for more than a decade, mainly at Harper’s Bazaar magazine and more recently as beauty editor of the Telegraph Online newspaper. For this edition of SHOP, Katy spoke to the highprofle perfume expert Jo Malone for her advice about how to select the perfect fragrance.
DISCOVER A WORLD OF BEAUTY At John Lewis Oxford Street we've got all the make-up and beauty tools you need to create your perfect look.
Our commitment to value means that we match the prices of high street competitors (this excludes onlineonly or mail order businesses). Service conditions must be comparable. See our ‘Never Knowingly Undersold’ leafet in our shops or online for details.
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Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator MaricorMaricar Contributors Dominique Fenn, Katy Young Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Acting fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting news editor Hannah Lewis Associate news and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Assistant fashion and news editor Gemma Latham Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/ Deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Artwork editor Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala
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Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue
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Contents
P ro d u c t s 20 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from London this season 24 My Favourites shoe designer Liam Fahy reveals his top tips for autumn/winter 2014/15 26 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 32 Street Style our pick of the city’s best dressed during London Fashion Week N eWs 35 Shop Window one store not to be missed in London 36 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products 42 In Store … … with Lulu roper-caldbeck in her boutique, darkroom F e At u r e s 44 Cover Story: Wool’s Worth From Prada to Paul smith, leading international fashion houses are sourcing their natural fabrics in Britain, dominique Fenn reports
52 Ask The Expert: Jo Malone What should you look for when selecting a fragrance? Jo Malone reveals the secrets to Katy Young e x Pe r i e Nce 60 Table Talk London’s no-reservations restaurants are among the most popular in the city. Verity Hogan joins the crowds at some of the best ci t Y Gu i de 69 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of London 84 My Neighbourhood chef Vivek singh takes sHoP on a tour of southeast London and of his other favourite places in the city esseNtiA Ls 88 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping
t r A N s L At i o N s 92 Русский Перевод 96 美文翻译 103 sou V e N i r 104 the essential item to bring home
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Check Out
ON THE RIGHT TRACK When former accessories editor Kate Spade was unable to fnd an ideal handbag, she took on the project of designing one herself. Following this success, she developed a line of accessories in distinctively simple styles combining fun prints and bold colours. The Kate Spade brand is now popular around the world, with stores on every continent, and it’s easy to Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88
see why, with such cheerful and charming creations. This playful, train-shaped clutch is a conversation starter, featuring a quirky cutout shape and eye-catching gold details. Made from high-quality navy blue and patent black leather, the bag is sure to see you through the party season in style. gl Kate Spade All Aboard Train clutch, ÂŁ285, Kate Spade, 1-4 Langley Court, London WC2E 9JY, +44 (0)20 7836 3988, katespade.com
London & surrounding areas: Bicester Village / Bluewater / Cambridge / Covent Garden / Gatwick North & South / Heathrow T1, T2 & T5 / Knightsbridge Manchester New Cathedral Street / Regent Street South Molton Street / Westfeld
TEDBAKER.COM TEDBAKERBLOG.COM
#TAKETHELEAD #TEDBAKERAW14
OXFORD STREET, LONDON ...ACCESSORIZE / ADIDAS / ALDO BHS / BOOTS / BURTONS CARPHONE WAREHOUSE / CLAIRE’S CLARKS / CURRY’S PC WORLD DEBENHAMS / DISNEY STORE DOROTHY PERKINS / EVANS FOREVER 21 / FRENCH CONNECTION GAP / G-STAR RAW / HMV HOUSE OF FRASER / H&M JOHN LEWIS / MANGO MISS SELFRIDGE / MONSOON MOTHERCARE / M&S / NEW LOOK NEXT / NIKE / OFFICE / PANDORA PRIMARK / RIVER ISLAND RUSSELL & BROMLEY / SCHUH SELFRIDGES / SUNGLASS HUT SWAROVSKI / SWATCH / TIGER TOPMAN / TOPSHOP / UNIQLO URBAN OUTFITTERS / WALLIS WAREHOUSE / WATERSTONES / ZARA...
LONDON SHOPPING IT ALL STARTS HERE
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MY FAVOURITES: Liam Fahy London-based shoe designer Liam Fahy collaborates with the fnest Italian artisans to create luxurious footwear for women. Liam’s shoes can be identifed by the signature nickel-embellished soles, and his original ideas and exacting eye won him a British Fashion Council Newgen award. Here he shares some of his favourite brands, stores and designers with Gemma Latham
1. ‘I don’t really have a signature fragrance, but I like Penhaligon’s packaging’
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Penhaligon’s Bayolea eau de toilette, 100ml, £85, Penhaligon’s, 41 Wellington Street, London WC2E 7BN, +44 (0)20 7836 2150, penhaligons.com
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Liam Fahy Lula shoes, £375, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, liamfahy.com
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PHOTOS: (1) RGLANCY; (4) THe New CRAfTSmeN
2. ‘My Lula shoes are classic, elegant and seasonless. They look simple but we spent months making sure the pattern and height was just right on the foot’
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4. ‘There’s a great store just of Oxford Street called The New Craftsmen that sells handmade British crafts, including one-of items’ The New Craftsmen, 34 North Row, London W1K 6DG, +44 (0)20 7148 3190, thenewcraftsmen.com
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5. ‘Conceptual Perspex jewellery from British designer Sarah Angold makes a distinctive souvenir’ Sarah Angold jewellery, price on request, Fenwick, 63 New Bond Street, London W1S 1RQ, +44 (0)20 7629 9161, sarahangold.com
6. ‘Emma J Shipley’s Polar scarf collection caught my eye this season for the unique handillustrated drawings’
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Emma J Shipley Aurora Polar scarf, £280, Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, emmajshipley.com
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URBAN LIFE Dressed-down denim is given a sophisticated update with classic winter checks and leather accessories 1
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1. Skagen leather backpack, £299, Skagen, Westfeld Stratford City, 168 The Arcade, Montfchet Road, Olympic Park, London E20 1EL, +44 (0)20 8536 0674, skagen.com
3. Ofce Tyron boots, £79.99, Ofce, 190 Oxford Street, London W1D 1NR, +44 (0)20 7255 2410, ofce.co.uk
2. Filippa K leather gloves, £80, Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, flippa-k.com
4. Diesel jeans, £290, Diesel, 43 Earlham Street, London WC2H 9LX, +44 (0)20 7497 5543, diesel.com
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5. Cos hat, £25, Cos, 222 Regent Street, London W1B 5BD, +44 (0)20 7478 0400, cosstores.com
7. Ben Sherman checked scarf, £40, Ben Sherman, 50 Carnaby Street, London W1F 9QA, +44 (0)20 7437 2031, bensherman.com
6. Ted Baker coat, £199, Ted Baker, 9-10 Floral Street, London WC2E 9HW, +44 (0)20 7836 7808, tedbaker.com
8. Triwa Nevil watch, £230, Article, 90 Kingsland Road, London E2 8DP, +44 (0)20 7739 6751, triwa.com
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LONDON CALLING Stand out from the crowd in bright and bold pillar-box red
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1. Ludwig Reiter boots, £579, Ludwig Reiter, 6 Brook Street, London W1S 1BB, +44 (0)20 3302 3421, ludwig-reiter.com
3. Adolfo Dominguez jacket, £249, Adolfo Dominguez, 15 Endell Street, London WC2H 9BJ, +44 (0)20 7836 5013, adolfodominguez.com
2. Eric Bompard scarf, £95, Eric Bompard, 29 Kings Road, London SW3 4RP, +44 (0)20 7730 9826, eric-bompard.com
4. Jimmy Choo special-edition bag, £595, Jimmy Choo, 27 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RH, +44 (0)20 7493 5858, jimmychoo.com
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PHOTO: (4) RicHaRd Valencia PHOTOGRaPHY
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FREE SPIRIT Combine prints and textures in autumnal tones to exude bohemian elegance 1
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1. Hobbs dress, £349, Hobbs, 112-115 Long Acre, London WC2E 9PA, +44 (0)20 7836 0625, hobbs.co.uk
3. Accessorize scarf, £25, Accessorize, 386 Oxford Street, London W1N 9HE, +44 (0)20 7491 9424, accessorize.com
2. Links of London watch, £395, Links of London, 5A The Market, London WC2 8RF, +44 (0)20 7240 7391, linksofondon.com
4. Folli Follie necklace, £110, Folli Follie, 124 Regent Street, London W1B 5SB, +44 (0)20 7287 9912, follifollie.com
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39 Floral St. / 34 Shelton St. / 28 Old Bond St. / 5-7 Fouberts Place 409 Oxford St. / 207-209 Regent St. / Westfield Shopping Centre
Find your nearest Camper Store at camper.com
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Street Style
PHOTOS: Melanie Galea/THeSTreeTMuSe.iT
Spacious envelope clutches and convenient cross-body bags are staple items at London Fashion Week, and should be a part of any wardrobe
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Now delivering worldwide to over 50 countries, visit hobbs.com for further information HOBBS FLAGSHIP STORE 112-115 LONG ACRE | LONDON | WC2E 9PA HO BB S .CO M
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PHOTO: KalOry lTD
Shop Window
GENTLEMEN’S CLUB British tailor Aquascutum, which has more than 160 years of expertise, has opened a new menswear store on Jermyn Street. The company’s founder John Emary was a pioneer of waterproof fabric, and it’s no surprise that Aquascutum’s stylish and elegant yet practical raincoats proved popular with the British public. This boutique, designed Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88
by AMD Interior Architecture, has the feel of a modern gentlemen’s club, with marbled fooring, wooden cabinets, retro chairs and a snooker table. For exquisitely crafted outerwear, casual clothing and luxury tailoring, Aquascutum still provides quintessential British style, informed by the skill it has been developing since 1851. gl Aquascutum, 78-79 Jermyn Street, London SW1Y 6NP, +44 (0)20 3096 1865, aquascutum.co.uk
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DANISH DESIGNS Danish brand Designers Remix is one of Copenhagen’s most exciting exports. Producing beautiful womenswear informed by minimalism and architectural forms, the brand presents a modern and refned take on Scandinavian style. Designers Remix is currently expanding around the globe and can be found in Selfridges. hl Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), designersremix.com * for map go to page 77
IMMERSE YOURSELF Situated in an historic building, the Clerkenwell Collection ofers an unorthodox approach to retail. Visitors can discover an eclectic selection including men’s fashion, furniture, jewellery and artwork from brands which believe that good craftsmanship requires the luxury of time. A unique store that houses within its walls a gallery space, tailoring studio, tasting bar and spa, the Clerkenwell Collection gives visitors the ideal opportunity to lose themselves for a while. gl The Clerkenwell Collection, 155 Farringdon Road, London EC1R 3AD, +44 (0)20 3675 8847, theclerkenwellcollection.com Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88
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MAKE A SPLASH For those planning a trip to warmer countries, or who want to look stylish by the pool, Vilebrequin has opened a new boutique close to London’s famous Portobello Road market. Created in St Tropez in 1971, Vilebrequin is one of the world’s premier luxury swimwear brands, and every water lover should own one of its swimsuits, which are available for men, women and children in a delightful varety of colours and prints. irs Vilebrequin, 57 Ledbury Road, London W11 2AA, +44 (0)20 7792 5148, vilebrequin.com
THE BEST AT BENTALLS Located in the leafy Royal Borough of Kingston Upon Thames, and close to central London, Bentalls department store is well worth visiting. Bentalls can be reached by train from Waterloo station and once there, you’ll fnd an impressive range of clothing as well as beauty items and homewares. Look out for the recently expanded handbag department which includes items by Mulberry, Michael Kors, Joules and Marc by Marc Jacobs. irs Bentalls, Wood Street, Kingston Upon Thames, Surrey KT1 1TX, +44 (0)20 8546 1001, bentalls.co.uk globalblue.com
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NEW KNITS Central Saint Martins knitwear graduate Alice Ashby honed her skills at New York label Rag & Bone before establishing her own label, Blake Ldn, in 2012. Her vision was to create contemporary knitwear using traditional methods, sourcing the fnest yarns from around the world and manufacturing in Britain. The autumn/winter collection uses contrasting colours to achieve a panelled efect. Cut outs, oversized funnel necks and chunky ribbing patterns create distinctive pieces that are as comfortable as they are stylish, challenging knitwear as we know it. Discover the brand at the delightful Viola boutique on Connaught Street. gl Viola, 25 Connaught Street, London W2 2AY, +44 (0)20 7262 2722, blake-ldn.com
SHOP THE WORLD Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trip. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store and can also be downloaded for offline use allowing you to create your own itinerary. You can also sign up for the GB card and, once logged in, the My Tax refund wallet becomes available allowing you to track pending refunds. The app is available in Chinese, English Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88
and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase you make in every different country you visit. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store
LONDON | 49 Jermyn Street | Tel. +44 207 629 2495 | 28 Sloane Square | Tel. +44 207 823 5044
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A STEP AHEAD Mr Hare, a London-based company which brings a new and very trendy lease of life to classic men’s shoes, has opened a new store in Notting Hill. The brand, whose footwear is designed in Britain and
HIGH FASHION Playing with the idea of everyday couture, designer Claire Campbell established her label High as a middle ground between bespoke and ready-to-wear fashion, and as a link between formal and casual dressing. Focusing on design, quality and utility, Campbell’s designs are exquisitely well made without being fussy, and provide a seasonless wardrobe for modern women. Her simple but
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made in Italy, already has a store in Mayfair and the boutique on Westbourne Grove is certain to attract equally stylish customers. irs Mr Hare, 178A Westbourne Grove, London W11 2RH, +44 (0)20 7221 4025, mrhare.com
beautiful clothing is created with soft fabrics and features traditional techniques such as hand-stitching. In the London fagship store, visitors can browse pieces from Campbell’s tailored line, High, and her casual line, High Use, in a calm and elegant environment which has been designed to refect the label’s aesthetic. hl High, 107 New Bond Street, London W1S 1ED, +44 (0)20 7495 2595, high-everydaycouture.com
BY APPOINTMENT TO HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN PHARMACISTS JOHN BELL & CROYDEN LIMITED LONDON
Founded 1798 Wellbeing Emporium & Pharmacy
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In Store: Darkroom Located in Bloomsbury, Darkroom is an independent boutique founded by Lulu Roper-Caldbeck and her friend Rhonda Drakeford. Ximena Daneri met met the duo in the eclectic store
‘Lulu’s background is in fashion and Rhonda’s is in interiors and graphic design. We wanted to design our own ranges, and opening a shop seemed the perfect way to showcase them. From the outset we knew the store had to merge fashion and interiors and would be a combination of our own pieces alongside a carefully curated mix of items by other designers whose work we admire. Other stores at the time seemed very clean and minimal, focusing a lot on midcentury modern design. Our plan was to create something very different – something bolder, brighter and much more full-on – and we opened Darkroom fve years ago. ‘We knew this area already and while there were a few shops here, it was relatively unknown and afordable, while being easily accessible to central London and full of character. The same landlords have owned the shops on the street for generations and have tried to ensure it remains an independent shopping destination. ‘We had a clear vision of how we wanted the space to look, but Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88
as we had a very limited budget, we designed the shop ourselves and got stuck in with all the messy work such as clearing the space, painting and laying foors. ‘It is ideal as it’s on a corner and has a large shop front and window where we can create diferent displays and installations. The shop foor has nothing permanent or built in – this fexibility is vital as it has given us the chance to continuously evolve within the space. ‘All of our own designs are exclusive to this store, as are many other items. We work closely with our suppliers and quite often commission pieces to ft in with the store. When selecting pieces to buy, we try to avoid the bigger trade shows but instead go to the smaller, more unusual ones. We also look online and in magazines, go to graduate shows and travel for inspiration.’ Darkroom, 52 Lamb’s Conduit Street, London WC1N 3LL, +44 (0)20 7831 7244, darkroomlondon.com
PHOTO: Ximena Daneri
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Wool’s From Prada to Paul Smith, leading international fashion houses are sourcing their natural fabrics in Britain, Dominique Fenn reports One hundred years ago, it wasn’t London that infuenced international fashion, but a city in the north of England. Bradford was at the heart of the British manufacturing industry and was recognised as the global capital for wool, with hundreds of factories in the
surrounding area. One of the reasons for Bradford’s dominance in this sector was because of the availability of soft water, which was used to clean the wool. Over the years, the number of working factories (also known as mills) has decreased
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Opposite: Teatum Jones autumn/winter 2014/15
signifcantly, with only a handful still in existence. Yet many of the skills that were learned have been passed down through the generations and are still invaluable to this competitive industry, despite developments with machinery. The Woolmark Company, the world’s leading wool textile organisation, recently celebrated its 50th anniversary. It has been working to support young designers and to raise awareness of the skills available in British manufacturing. The International Woolmark Prize Above (from top): inspecting the fabric at Luxury Fabrics’ mill in Bradford, circa 1970s; fabric with a ‘made in England’ label on the loom at Luxury Fabrics
PHOTO: DOmInIquE FEnn
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Teatum Jones joins a long list of UK and international interiors and fashion labels that are putting their trust in British factories
is quickly becoming one of the most coveted designer awards; previous winners include British label Sibling and Belgian designer Christian Wijnants. Launched three years ago, Woolmark’s Loom to London initiative introduces young designers to the manufacturing options in this country. One such label is Teatum Jones, a luxury womenswear brand based in London. Now in its third year, Teatum Jones is celebrated for its beautiful prints and innovative approach to textiles
Above: Sibling, winner of the International Woolmark Prize 2013/14
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development and as a result became the bestselling womenswear label on the international foor at Liberty. With the help of The Woolmark Company and British mills, the company created a 3D-relief jacquard fabric. ‘We developed and created this using very new techniques,’ says designer Rob Jones, who set up Teatum Jones with Catherine Teatum. Once the 3D fabric had been devised, another mill helped Teatum Jones Above (from top): Teatum Jones autumn/winter 2014/15; Teatum Jones’ creative directors Rob Jones and Catherine Teatum
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to laminate the jacquard without fattening the 3D element of the fabric. ‘Our passion for making everything in the UK has come out of the need to have an authentic relationship with the manufacturers and mills that we use,’ says Jones. ‘Working on such highly developed intricate garments and fabrics, it has become essential to work closely with each of our suppliers. We are very lucky to have such highly skilled craftsmanship right on our doorstep to be able to do this.’
Teatum Jones joins a long list of UK and international interiors and fashion labels that are putting their trust in British factories, such as Luxury Fabrics in Bradford: Prada and Louis Vuitton, for example, source certain fabrics from British factories because of the expertise and innovation available here. Dunhill, the quintessential British menswear label, has a modern approach, despite its 100-year heritage. The company is investing in a new factory in east London
Above (lef to right): Dunhill autumn/winter 2014/15; thread reels at Luxury Fabrics, Bradford; Paul Smith autumn/winter 2014/15
PHOTO: DOminique Fenn
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PHOTO: © GORunWAY.COm
A commitment to meeting the needs of customers around the world is why British fabric firms are so successful
and is a strong supporter of British manufacturers. Paul Smith, another British label, produces suits which are coveted around the world, including in countries with much hotter climates than the UK, so the company uses Cool Wool, a fner, lightweight fabric, made by Joseph H Clissold in Bradford. A commitment to meeting the needs of customers around the world is why British fabric frms are so successful. ‘We get all sorts of requests from clients,’ says Nigel Birch, product development
manager at WT Johnson & Sons, which dyes and fnishes fabrics for clients around the globe. ‘We wove 24-carat gold into a fabric for a £700,000 suit and we fnished a fabric woven with jade to hopefully bring good fortune for a Japanese client. We also had a Scottish client who wanted their fabrics laced with whisky – we always try to fulfl our clients’ requests!’ woolmark.com, teatumjones.com, dunhill.co.uk, paulsmith.co.uk, clissold.co.uk, wtjohnson.co.uk
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Ask The Expert
Jo Malone Inspired by her beautician mother, Jo Malone started to make fragrances using fowers when she was a child. She worked as a forist before setting up Jo Malone London, selling her own bath oils, creams and candles. The business went on to establish stores around the globe and in 2011 it was taken over by Estée Lauder. Malone has now launched Jo Loves, a sophisticated line comprising beauty products and items for the home. Here, she divulges her tips on how to shop for perfume with Katy Young jomalone.co.uk, joloves.com
1 Find your personal taste ‘I think the biggest mistake we make is buying something that smells good on someone else; all of our skin chemistry is diferent,’ says Jo Malone. Avoid being beguiled by a friend’s scent as it won’t emit the same notes on your skin. ‘The trick is to fnd things you like about your top three fragrances – there’s often a thread, a note
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or a feeling.’ Look at a fragrance for its characteristics and ask yourself if it’s light, fresh or warm, for example. 2 Colour code Don’t just use your nose to determine your signature scent, says Malone. Thinking of a fragrance in terms of what colour you think it ties in with is an intuitive and
Opposite: Jo Malone
PHOTO: © LOuisa Parry
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nuanced way to hone in on the scent you’re seeking (Malone says she picked up this trick as a result of being dyslexic). ‘In looking for a fragrance, you should almost want to think about looking for what colour you’d like to paint. For example, towards autumn and Christmas with various blacktie events, you might be wearing something red. Reds translate into a rich, ruby and heated scent. Or a beautiful emerald green might mean coolness like fresh open gardenia; yellow translates
Different skin types hold perfume on their surfaces in different ways
Above (from top): Jo Loves Green Orange & Coriander fragrance; Jo Loves Pink Vetiver bath cologne
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as sunshine, light and citrus, and orange means burnt cinnamon.’ Colour-coding your wardrobe to your scent can provide an harmonious balance, because often the shades we wear refect the seasons.
4 Don’t rush Time and space are needed when selecting a perfume. ‘Choose four or fve fragrances maximum, and then take a break and breathe in coffee beans or lemon sorbet to clear your nose,’ says Malone, noting that premium fragrance labels should at least have cofee beans to hand. For the best indication of how a fragrance will smell on you, spray testers on your skin. Narrow your choice to three and come back the next day to make your decision.
PHOTO: © LOuisa Parry
3 Understand skin tones Take note of your skin colour before you invest in a fragrance as diferent skin types hold perfume on their surfaces in diferent ways. People with darker skin tones are more suited to heavier notes, while those with lighter skin suit light forals. ‘It’s down to body chemistry. It even depends on what we eat. Dark, tanned skins are used
to being exposed to the sun and often contain more oil, which can affect fragrance hugely.’
Above: Jo Loves Mango Nectar fragrance
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ECCO Kensington - 102 Kensington High Street W8 4SG London - +44 207 938 25 83 ECCO Oxford Circus - 261 Oxford Street, WC1 2DE London ECCO Knightsbr idge - 45 Brompton RoadSW3 1DE London - +44 207 584 57 37 ECCO Covent Garden - 36 Long Acre - WC2E 9JT London - +44 207 379 51 45 ECCO Wes tfeld - Westfeld Shopping Centre Unit 1114 - W12 7GD London - +44 208 735 18 30 ECCO Wimbledon - Centre Court Shopping Center 4 Queens Road - SW19 8YE London - +44 208 947 86 65
5 Seasonal scents Select fragrances for diferent times of the year. ‘If you like chypre in the summer, stick to oaks and mosses in winter – you’ll like the woody, spicy notes in winter, and those leather notes,’ says Malone. ‘If you like something like Annick Goutal’s Passion for instance, which is known for its sweet vanilla and jasmine notes, stick to something sweet but with amber foral notes – your preference is that you need something with a honey note in it. Similarly, if you like heady rich forals, go for night jasmine.’ Malone also says that how the scent is used can be varied according to the seasons: ‘In winter, I love to spray it on my big rollneck cashmere sweaters or onto a large cashmere scarf.’
Above (from top): Jo Loves new London store on Elizabeth Street; Jo Loves fragrance bar in the new London store
PHOTOS: © AndrEw MErEdiTH
58 | F E AT U R E S
60 | E X P E R I E N C E
Table Talk London’s no-reservations restaurants are among the most popular in the city, serving gourmet fast food in unique settings and attracting loyal followings. Verity Hogan joins the crowds at some of the best
The most exciting restaurants in London are setting themselves apart by not taking bookings, leading to a host of eateries with an impromptu, casual feel, similar to the laid-back style of Mediterranean tapas bars. as the trend continues to grow among the capital’s independent restaurants, ‘no reservations’ is quickly becoming associated with the next big thing. globalblue.com
The practice allows smaller restaurants to open and stay in business while also bringing a touch of democracy to dining out. These places are perfect for those who are spontaneous and who want to decide where to eat at the last minute. The most popular no-reservations restaurants quickly become defned by the length of their queues but the food is well worth the wait.
S H O P | 61
Ba r n ya r d Ollie dabbous’ latest venture ofers wholesome, home-cooked dishes in a relaxed, rustic setting. The dining room dÊcor has an agricultural theme, featuring reclaimed timber and corrugated tin, while menu options include sausage rolls with piccalilli and beef on toast with warm horseradish buttermilk. The drinks and dessert selection is
sure to have wide-ranging appeal; the apple and cloudberry crumble with clotted cream is a typical pudding while the Hedgerow Shandy cocktail, with its mix of sloe gin, cider, pink grapefruit and tonic, provides a refreshing accompaniment to the hearty food on ofer. Barnyard, 18 Charlotte Street, London W1T 2LZ, +44 (0)20 7580 3842, barnyard-london.com
62 | E X P E R I E N C E
ChiCken Shop Fried chicken becomes fne-dining fare at Chicken Shop’s intimate kentish Town branch. This low-lit basement restaurant contrasts with typical brightly lit fast-food eateries while all of the chicken served is reared free range at Banham’s Farm in norfolk. Diners can order a whole, half or quarter chicken, blackened to perfection with just the right amount of spice. Side orglobalblue.com
ders are similarly tempting, ranging from crinkle-cut fries with a generous helping of garlic aioli to corn on the cob smothered in garlic and coriander butter. Be sure to order a locally brewed pint of Camden pale Ale with your meal – it’s a perfect match for the chicken’s intense favours. Chicken Shop, 79 highgate Road, London nW5 1TL, +44 (0)20 3310 2020, chickenshop.com
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LILY & LIONEL
E X P E R I E N C E | 65
Bu rger & LoBst er As its name suggests, Burger & Lobster serves burgers and lobster; in fact, the menu options are limited to a beef burger, grilled or steamed lobster, and a lobster brioche roll. Whole lobsters are served with a rich lemon and garlic-drawn butter while burgers are made from the fnest grass-fed Irish and cornfed Nebraskan beef. Main meals
globalblue.com
are served with chips and salad while diners can choose between a chocolate or lime mousse for dessert. the dining room has a relaxed atmosphere with seating divided between banquettes and high stools while the reliably friendly service also helps to set the scene. Burger & Lobster, 29 Clarges street, London W1J 7eF, +44 (0)20 7409 1699, burgerandlobster.com
PHOTO: Paul WincH-Furness
66 | E X P E R I E N C E
BuBBLedogS
Pitt Cue Co
With its unusual yet winning combination of Champagne and hot dogs, Bubbledogs has become one of London’s evening hotspots. Pork, beef and vegetarian hot dogs are ofered with various toppings; options range from the New Yorker with its grilled sauerkraut to the Sloppy Joe made with beef chilli, Cheddar cheese and chopped onions. Champagne is available by the glass or bottle and is sourced from small producers to ensure a distinctive taste. Be sure to order a side of potato tots (croquettes) or sweet potato fries which are perfect partners for a chilled glass of Champagne. Bubbledogs, 70 Charlotte Street, London W1t 4Qg, +44 (0)20 7637 7760, bubbledogs.co.uk
Visitors will almost certainly need to wait in line to enjoy Pitt Cue Co’s perfectly smoked meat, but they will be well rewarded. the dishes are faultlessly executed, from the sticky St Louis pork ribs with crunchy pickle side to the richly sauced beef brisket. the intense favour of the meat is created by dry rubbing with sugar, spice and mustard glaze before it is dry smoked for fve hours and slowly roasted on hickory chips. the low lighting and stripped-back décor creates an intimate atmosphere; head to the restaurant’s bar area while you wait for a table to enjoy homemade pork scratchings and bourbon-based cocktails. Pitt Cue Co, 1 Newburgh Street, London W1F 7RB, pittcue.co.uk
globalblue.com
A VANS DOCUMENTARY SERIES VANS STORES: 47 Carnaby Street / Westfeld London – ground foor 191-209 Camden High Street / Westfeld Stratford – ground foor
move your lee Let’s celebrate 125 years of denim expertise
STORES IN LONDON
COVENT GARDEN, 35 NEAL STREET WESTFIELD SHOPPING CENTER, SHEPARDS BUSH
G U I D E | 69
Guide
PHOTO: visiTlOndOnimages/ briTainOnview/ mccOrmick-mcadam
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to London with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the fnest chocolate shops to the best Covent Garden boutiques. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.
A GLimPSe OF LOndOn The Thames is one of London’s most famous attractions; take a cruise to see the sights or visit one of the many bars and restaurants on the Southbank ofering riverside views. globalblue.com
70 | G U I D E
London MARYLEBONE
SHOP’S HIGHLIGHTS
EDGWARE ROAD
H A R ROW RD 1
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Dunhill Admire the British manufacturing processes used in Dunhill’s modern menswear collections. 2 Davies Street, London W1K 3DJ, +44 (0)20 7853 4440, dunhill.co.uk featured on page 44
The Long Water
SERPENTINE GALLERY
K EN SI NG TO N R D
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Place Of Interest
OM
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VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM
EY
*
KNIGHTSBRIDGE
BR
DN SY
Aquascutum The new menswear store by British tailors Aquascutum has been designed to resemble a modern gentlemen’s club and even features a snooker table. 78-79 Jermyn Street, London SW1Y 6NP, +44 (0)20 3096 1865, aquascutum.co.uk featured on page 35
77
The Serpentine
Selfridges Chocolate Library Visitors with a sweet tooth will be spoilt for choice with the extensive selection at Selfridges Chocolate Library. 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), selfridges.com featured on page 77
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Barnyard Enjoy a menu of homespun cuisine served in an appropriately rustic setting at Barnyard. 18 Charlotte Street, London W1T 2LZ, +44 (0)20 7580 3842, barnyard-london.com featured on page 61
L M A RY
Train Station
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W HIT EH A LL
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HYDE PARK CORNER
NATIONAL THEATRE
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APSLEY HOUSE
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LEICESTER 81 SQUARE ND RA PICCADILLY page ST CIRCUS 80 . ST CHARING YN CROSS RM JE SH
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WATERLOO LONDON EYE
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London Underground Station
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72 | G U I D E
BEST NEW CASUAL RESTAURANTS
*
1. Jamaica Jamaica Patty Patty Co Co 1. Bringing authentic authentic Jamaican Jamaican cuisine cuisine to to Bringing central London, London, Jamaica Jamaica Patty Patty Co Co serves serves central freshly baked baked patties patties flled flled with with jerk jerk freshly chicken, chicken, prawns, prawns, curried curried goat goat or or saltfsh saltfsh and ackee. Be sure to try the Tortuga and ackee. Be sure to try the Tortuga rum rum cake for dessert. cake for dessert. Jamaica Patty Patty Co, Co, Jamaica 26 New New Row, Row, London WC2N 4LA, 26 jamaicapatty.co.uk London WC2N 4LA,
for Bayou map go to page 00 3. The The Bayou is London’s frst all-day Creole 2. Yard Sale restaurant andPizza serves favourful dishes The stone-baked from that handmade, combine cuisine from thepizzas US southern Yard Sale Pizza have a distinctive states with French, Spanish, Italianfavour and and come in generous portion sizes, African infuences. Dishes range from attracting hipster customers. juicy ribs and crispy buttermilkChoose chickenthe Full version to enjoy which toppings to a House hearty crayfsh gumbo is of pepperoni, fennel sausage, spicy perfect when accompanied by a ground beef, black olives,cocktail. mixed peppers and Bourbon-based
jamaicapatty.co.uk
The Bayou, 20 Inverness Street, London NW1 7HJ, +44 (0)20 7284 0989, thebayoucamden.com
2. Yard Sale Pizza The handmade, stone-baked pizzas available from Yard Sale Pizza have a distinctive favour and come in generous portion sizes, attracting a varied clientele. Choose the Full House pizza to enjoy toppings of pepperoni, fennel sausage, spicy ground beef, black olives, mixed peppers and mushrooms. Yard Sale Pizza, 105 Lower Clapton Road, London E5 0NP, +44 (0)20 3602 9090, yardsalepizza.com
2
Oxford Street (North) WATERSTONES ● THE PERFUME SHOP ● ACCESSORIZE ●
MOSS ● ESPRIT ●
AMERICAN APPAREL ●
● H. SAMUEL ● MARKS & SPENCER VERO MODA/ ● JACK & JONES ● MUJI ● BOOTS
MA R KE T P L .
RA M IL
H&M ●
ALDO ● OFFICE ● RUSSELL & BROMLEY ●
ET
RE ET
ST RE ET
UNIQLO ●
D KEN W E ED E R ● EN OFF
STR E
ST LE ST
DUNE ●
RETRO LONDON JESSOPS SWAROVSKI COOLWAY THE ORANGE SHOP FLIGHT CENTRE
NOEL
JEANS WEST ●
OXFORD STREET
EA S TC A
MA RG AR ET
SPORTS DIRECT ●
● ● ● ● ● ●
REET LAY ST D’ARB
ST RE ET
L●
NUD
The Plaza
W EL LS
O AT R
TP . K ST W IC JE A N S ● BER IE FOO
. LI ES ST
● PHONES 4 U
THE PHOTOGRAPHERS GALLERY
● NEXT ● NEW LOOK ● RIVER ISLAND
SCHUH ●
Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest
● ZARA
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Shopping Centre/Mall
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74 | G U I D E
La Porte des Indes
and 12-metre-high waterfall. the best way to try the cuisine is to order a thali, comprising a number of small dishes. options range from sautéed green okra with tomatoes and onion to a spiced seafood stew. La Porte des Indes, 32 Bryanston street, London W1H 7eG, +44 (0)20 7224 0055, laportedesindes.com
La Porte des Indes (Gateway to India) transports diners to the distinctive Pondicherry region of India as soon as they step through the door. the dining room is spectacular: set in a former edwardian ballroom, the space features an array of artefacts, a marble staircase
Oxford Street (Central) ● BERSHKA
URBAN OUTFITTERS ●
RT LA
MISS SELFRIDGE ●
TOPSHOP / TOPMAN ● NIKETOWN ●
OXFORD STREET
GR EAT PO
T ND ST R EE
● MANGO ● GAP ● BUREAU DE CHANGE
● TEZENIS
R E G EN
OXFORD CIRCUS
REG EN T STR EET
H&M ●
R T ST
EET
● BENETTON
● PANDORA ● ECCO
HEN RIE TTA
JO H
IN N PR
C E 'S
ZARA ● S T. H. SAMUEL ●
● VISION EXPRESS ● JD SPORTS
BHS
PLA CE
CLARKS ● WAREHOUSE ●
● ERNEST JONES ● SALVATION FOOT
GEOX ● THE BODY SHOP ● COAST ●
Cavendish Square Gardens
HO L L ES ST REE
● CARPISA
● ACCESSORIZE
● RIVER ISLAND ● ALDO
REET
EET
● MOSS
K ST
PLA CE
ST RE ET
WE LBE CK STR
OXFO RD STR EE T
HEN RIE TTA
WI GM OR E
Meat Liquor
BROO
● TIE RACK
John Lewis
● UNIQLO ● SWATCH ● PULL & BEAR
HANDEL HOUSE MUSEUM EE T
● MASSIMO DUTTI
House Of Fraser FOSSIL ● SUNGLASS HUT ●
VE RE
S T.
Debenhams
● SWAROVSKI ● NEXT
WB
ON
JO MALONE ● LINKS OF LONDON ●
Bureau De Change U SO
● THORNTONS
K ST RE ET
NE
TR DS
● ZARA
THE DISNEY STORE ●
W EL B EC
Hanover Square
● EE
T
TH
N TE OL M
ET RE ST
BROWNS ● FOCUS
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Department Store
Global Blue Refund Ofce
Restaurant
London Underground Station
7forallmankind.com
LONDON 11B, King Street WC2E 8HN
228, Westbourne Grove W11 2RH
225, Regent Street W1B 2ER
S H O P | 77
Oxford Street (South) BEST CHOCOLATE SHOPS
ET ● BOOTS ● HMV BUREAU ● DE CHANGE VIVIENNE ● OMEGA ● WESTWOOD
JOHN BELL ● & CROYDEN SUNGLASS HUT ● FOREVER 21 ●
BOND STREET OXFORD STREET
H&M ● INTIMISSI ● SPRING STORE ● THE BODY SHOP ●
PHASE EIGHT ●
JA ME
S ST R EE T
GAP ●
ACCESSORIZE ●
DOROTHY PERKINS/ ● BURTON
West One Centre
● BOOTS ● RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● CARPHONE WAREHOUSE ● CAMPER
JANE NORMAN ● ● SWAROVSKI WATCHES OF FRENCH CONNECTION ● ● SWITZERLAND PENELOPE CHILVERS ●
DU KE ST
P.36
RE ET
● ADIDAS ● WATERSTONES ●3 ● THE PERFUME SHOP ● THE HOUR PASSION
Selfridges
● ARABIAN OUD
SO NY E ● CE N TR
NO RT H
ST. OR CH AR D MARKS & SPENCER ●
AU DL EY
ST.
● ZARA
SCHUH ●
● PANDORA
VODAFONE ●
● BERSHKA
CLARKS ●
● RIVER ISLAND
LA SENZA ●
● URBAN OUTFITTERS
CLAIRE’S ● DUNE ● RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● MONSOON ●
OX F O R D S T R E
NEW LOOK ●
ST. PO RT MA N
PA RK ST
RE ET
ET
GEOX ●
● PRIMARK
W
MOTHERCARE ●
3. Charbonnel et Walker Illustrious chocolate maker Charbonnel et Walker has a prestigious range of chocolates, handmade from traditional recipes. Charbonnel et Walker, One The Royal Arcade, 28 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4BT, +44 (0)20 7491 0939, charbonnel.co.uk
NO RT H RO
BOOTS ● ANN SUMMERS ● HOLLAND & BARRETT ●
2. Paul A Young Artisan chocolatier Paul A Young is famous for his innovative approach and ability to balance daring favour combinations. Chocolates are guaranteed to be fresh and favourful. Paul A Young, 143 Wardour Street, London W1F 8WA, +44 (0)20 7437 0011, paulayoung.co.uk
2
NEXT ●
SUPERDRUG ●
1. Selfridges Chocolate Library Stocking more than 400 varieties of chocolate from over 50 brands, the choice at Selfridges Chocolate Library is extensive. Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), selfridges.com
● BASICS
WALLIS ● TOPSHOP ●
MARBLE ARCH
● EVAN S
PA R K LA
NE
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Shopping Centre/Mall
Department Store
London Underground Station
Featured In This Issue
78 | G U I D E
Regent Street & Carnaby Street
LEVI’S ●
● NIKETOWN ● TOPSHOP / TOPMAN
H&M ●
OXFORD CIRCUS BENETTON ●
KAREN MILLEN ● TED BAKER ● APPLE STORE ● LACOSTE ●
REGENT STR EE T
FRENCH CONNECTION ●
LONGCHAMP ●
HANOVER STREET
HOUSE OF ● HANOV ER
MOLTON BROWN ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● MICHAEL KORS ●
X
ST
RE
● ARMANI EXCHANGE
● ALL SAINTS ● H&M
T SK I H S T R EE SWAR OVTA LL IZ ED OROUG ● CR YS MARLB
BA NA NABL IC ● RE PU
G R E AT
Liberty
● COS
● MISS SIXTY
● DESIGUAL ● GAP
THE MAKEUP STORE ● SIZE? ● IRREGULAR CHOICE ●
● FORNARINA ● LAMBRETTA ● PYLONES ● PEPE JEANS ● DIESEL GOLA ● ● THE KOOPLES MUJI ● EL GANSO● ● STORM WESC ●
ET
● JAEGER
REPLAY ● HILFIGER DENIM ●
T
R EGE
● HAMLEYS
R EE
● OFFICE ● DAVID AND GOLIATH ● LEE ● G-STAR RAW ● HUGO BOSS VANS ● ● MERC ● ESPRIT HENRI LLOYD ● ● MUJI JACK WOLFSKIN ● ● LEVI’S ● HUGO BOSS HAWES & CURTIS ● BEN SHERMAN ● ● J CREW T.M. LEWIN ● LEVI’S ● ● THE NORTH FACE ● REISS 7 FOR ALL MAN KIND ● PUMA ● ● BOOTS THE EXCHANGE GROUP ● SOCCER ● AMERICAN APPAREL CALVIN KLEIN SCENE ● ● EASTPAK ● JEANS PRETTY GREEN ● ● GUESS ● SWEATY BETTY ● ANTHROPOLOGIE ● ILLAMASQUA JCREW ● ● MASSIMO DUTTI . CRABTREE & K ST BEA EVELYN ● FERRARI ● GANT ● BOSE ●
NT ST
R EE T
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD MAN ● T EE TR TS UI D ON
S TR E
Y ST
CHURCH’S ● THE PEN SHOP ●
H A LL
NAB
JUICY ● COUTURE
THE EAST INDIA COMPANY ●
MARS
DO
● ACCESSORIZE
CAR
M
AD
RE ET
● KIKO ● OMEGA ● & OTHER STORIES ● KIKI MAKEUP
FURLA ● HOBBS ● BARKER ● TUMI ● CAMPER ● KIPLING ● CLARKS ●
ET
OX FO RD ST
● TEZENIS
C VIVIENNE ● WESTWOOD
S AV
JA M
TRE
STR EET
TOYWATCH ● BURBERRY ●
● RUSSELL & BROMLEY
ET
V IG O
ZARA HOME ● PENHALIGON’S ●
● T.M. LEWIN ● FOLLI FOLLIE ● THE BODY SHOP ● ZARA ● MANGO
BREWER S TREE T
Global Blue Retailer London Underground Station
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Department Store
EET
HN S
● MAPPIN & WEBB
STR
● TOMMY HILFIGER
ES
E R JO
GODIVA ● SWAROVSKI ●
ER
● TIMBERLAND
LOW
OW
● BROOKS BROTHERS
OXFORDS ●
LOW
IL E R
L’OCCITANE ● KARL LAGERFIELD ●
80 | G U I D E
Regent Street & Piccadilly Circus BREWER S TREE T
● AUSTIN REED ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT CLARKS ● ● MOSS LONDON TEXTILE CO ● ● UNIQLO ● LUSH R E ● COACH HOLLISTER ● GE ● NESPRESSO NT HUNTER ● S T R ● LOTUS● WOLFORD E
BU
RY
E AV
SH
AF
TE
S
REISS ● SUPERDRY ●
YA L RO
ENT S
PICCADILLY CIRCUS ● LILLYWHITES
TR .
D IL LY
Piccadilly Circus
R R EG
P IC C A
LO W E
B CH ARB INA OU R● S PA RIS HOP ● MI KI ● WH IT T CA AR MP D● OM AR ZIO ● E XC E OF L LLENC OND H AW O N ●E ES & CU T H E S R T IS ● T IN G ●
ET
OSPREY ●
LONDON’S HIDDEN ATTRACTIONS
2. Fulham Palace A spectacular Grade I-listed building set on the banks of the Thames, historic Fulham Palace has been home to the bishops of London since the 700s. The building now houses a museum charting its history as well as an in-house café which serves freshly made sandwiches, cakes and pastries. Fulham Palace, Bishop’s Avenue, London SW6 6EA, +44 (0)20 7736 3233, fulhampalace.org
Global Blue Retailer
3. Wilton’s Music Hall Grand 19th-century music hall Wilton’s was left derelict for decades before being sympathetically restored to become a thriving arts and heritage venue. A host of original features still remains; classical arches, a carved balcony, sloping wooden foor and artfully dishevelled wallpaper all add to the hall’s distinctive atmosphere. Wilton’s Music Hall, 1 Graces Alley, London E1 8JB, +44 (0)20 3468 5670, wiltons.org.uk 3
Non-Global Blue Retailer
PHOTO: WILTON’S MUSIc HaLL/MIKe TWIGG
1. Pace Gallery Contemporary art gallery Pace is known for featuring exhibitions by some of the most signifcant international artists of the 20th and 21st centuries. This winter, the gallery will hold a retrospective of the Italian artist Mario Merz, comprising 10 of his most famous sculptures, installations and paintings. Pace Gallery, 6 Burlington Gardens, London W1S 3ET, +44 (0)20 3206 7600, pacegallery.com
London Underground Station
S H O P | 81
Designer beauty brand Aesop has a strong aesthetic, which is evident throughout its product range and refected in its Covent Garden boutique. parisian architects Ciguë devised the store’s inter ior, where wh itewashed walls, industrial exposed copper plumbing and light fxtures, and an engraved green cement tiled foor echo the architecture of the surrounding area.
PHOTO: © THe KaLORy aGeNcy
Aesop
Aesop, 7 King street, London WC2e 8HN, +44 (0)20 7836 8389, aesop.com
Covent Garden Market Hall, King Street, Henrietta Street & Southampton Street
ORIGINAL PENGUIN ●
DIOR ● CHANEL ●
LADURÉE ●
MOLESKIN ● BURBERRY ● LYLE & SCOTT ●
Covent Garden Market ● OAKLEY
KATHMANDU ●
● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND OPENING CEREMONY ● THE SUIT COMPANY ●
E
● JO MALOME
Rules
M AID EN LA N
THE ARMY GYM ●
HENRIETTA STREET
PARAMO ●
● DESTINY ● VILBREQUIN
P.83
SOUT H AMPTON STREET
● CRABTREE & EVELYN
PALMS ● AFRICA CENTRE
Shake Shack
● LUSH ● L’OCCITANE
● OLIVER SWEENEY ● MELISSA
MOSS ●
Restaurant
Place Of Interest
Featured In This Issue
● TRESPASS
RUGBY RALPH LAUREN ●
● AESOP ● JOY ● BRORA
● THE NORTH FACE
BURBERRY ● GODIVA ●
KING STR EE T
APPLE STORE ●
● TEA PALACE
COTSWOLD ●
LINKS ● KURT GEIGER ●
JAM ES STR EE T
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BRIDGES ●
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ELLIS BRIGHAM MOUNTAIN SPORTS ●
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BUILD-A-BEAR ●
EXE TER STR EE
LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM
QUIKSILVER ●
TAV IST OCK STR
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FRED PERRY ●
PRETTY GREEN ●
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ROYAL OPERA HOUSE
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Long Acre NE
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FRENCH CONNECTION ●
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GEOX ● MARKS & SPENCER ●
Bill’s
● DUO
COVENT GARDEN
JOULES ●
● UGG AUSTRALIA
HOBBS ●
● MUJI ● ECCO
● SNOW & ROCK
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REISS ● R E ● LES NEREIDES RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● AC G ● ASPINAL OF LONDON GARDEN PHARMACY ● N O L ● REEBOK CALVIN KLEIN ● ● GAP GAP KIDS ● ● H&M ● RABEANCO T JACK WOLFSKIN ● EE ● WHISTLES TR MASSIMO DUTTI ● ● PANDORA LS A ● CANDELA OR THE WATCH HUT ● ● JIGSAW FL COS ● ● ESPRIT BANANA REPUBLIC ● ● TK MAXX BARBOUR ● JACK WILLS ● ● STANFORDS L.K.BENNETT ●
St. Martins Courtyard
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PAUL SMITH SHOES ● DUNE ● PAUL SMITH ● TRUE CAMPER ● RELIGION ● MULBERRY ● ● TED BAKER
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● ACCESSORIZE
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T FOSSIL ● RADLEY ● ● BOOTS E E● NICOLE FARHI AGNÈS B. ● TR THE BODY SHOP ● TINTIN SHOP ● L S● THE SANCTUARY A PAUL & JOE ● ● SKECHERS OR SWAROVSKI ● F L ● AUBIN & WILLS H&M ● ● Y-3 EE
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Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Shopping Centre/Mall
Featured In This Issue
London Underground Station
Restaurant
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A ● STR SH OL OP OG SO Y LE BI RK ● EN FI LO ST FA OC X K
Monmouth Street & Neal Street
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T OO EF O BI AR TA O B ● V G VI MI IN DESTINY ● ● PR YU ● ROSSODESIRA FS ● OF OFFICE ● US C ● FO TT LOLLIPOPS PARIS ● ● AR ● MYSTERIES RH ES SUPERGA ● CA ON L ● S PY ENERGIE ● ● ORION OC ● CR ● SPEEDO ● ● COCO DE MER ●
OROGOLD COSMETICS ● ● BREAKPOINT
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● AC GA L M OR RE ● E PA ?● Y TH ZE L ● AP ● DD UNCONDITIONAL ● AN RE BE C ● I C A F R I E ● ORLA KIELY S ● ● ER UR F S WE GA S ● M MURDOCK LONDON ● AM SE Z AN OR UE TS ● JO JE D F T ● FO U E U P.104 OR OL ING P E O O G H AT SH ● THE LOFT H D E C F U ● ● P A OM S E O M ER R D H O ● WOLSEY T O T TH ST A ● ALBAM LE ● KE ● BARACUTTA DI ES EL NI ● ● G-STAR RAW SCRIBBLER ● K. N. GO ● CA NE LA FRED PERRY ● ● CE RS AN ST RE ET M PA R ● TE AM H S T RL E A ● I E ● P D OW TF M ● ● U VI UL D O N CA DA C L N TO AN S ● ● BA DS RL ES UR KI NS BE ● SASSOON E GU H M T T ● ● TI CA AR SE ET M U ● GILDA’S TRYST . E ● R HO E DR A ST OR ● BASE TE N ● ST E DEZEEN TO E DO TH EL ● DRESS CIRCLE SUPER STORE ● HO AL H S S ● LONDON GRAPHIC CENTRE L A R ● POSTE MISTRESS LAURA LEE TU JEWELLERY ● NA ● GUDRUN SJODEN TATTY DEVINE ● COVENT GARDEN ● MARKET
MILLER HARRIS ●
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COVENT GARDEN’S BEST BOUTIQUES Opening Ceremony Loved by fashion editors, Opening Ceremony stocks its own directional designs alongside a carefully selected range of pieces by international designers. Opening Ceremony, 35 King Street, London WC2E 8JG, +44 (0)20 7836 4978, openingceremony.us featured on page 81
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Russell & Bromley British footwear brand Russell & Bromley is known for creating highquality pieces that reference trends
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while maintaining timeless appeal. Russell & Bromley, 117 Long Acre, London WC2E 9PA, +44 (0)20 7240 1654, russellandbromley.co.uk Penhaligon’s Penhaligon’s 34 distinctive scents incorporate fne and rare ingredients including vetiver, cedar, vanilla, plum and tea. Penhaligon’s, 13 Market Building, The Piazza, London WC2E 8RB, +44 (0)20 3040 3030, penhaligons.com featured on page 81
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MY NEIGHBOURHOOD: Vivek Singh Vivek Singh is regarded as one of Britain’s top chefs. Through his three restaurants – the Cinammon Club, Cinammon Kitchen and Cinnamon Soho – he has transformed perceptions of Indian food. He is also the author of several wellreceived cookbooks. Here, Vivek introduces Isabella Redmond Styles to his top places to visit in London cinammonclub.com
‘My favourite parts of London are in the south-east – Peckham, Camberwell and New Cross – as so many things are currently happening in these places, there’s never a dull moment! ‘I love to visit Peckham Rye Park and Common, which is beautiful at any time of year, with everything from ornamental gardens to woods, streams, a lake and a meadow; it really is very special. ‘Peckham is constantly changing and always surprises
me with new things to do. I love the local independent cinema PeckhamPlex, and a visit to Persepolis, a corner shop of Persian delights selling everything from books to gifts and snacks, is a must. I often take my wife and children to the South London Gallery where exhibitions are free and there are usually some fun activities. ‘The London Particular on New Cross Road is my regular café. There are always plenty of freshly made cakes and
Above (from lef): crispy noodles with crab at the Begging Bowl; the London Particular café
PHOTO: © waTcHLOOksee/MaTTHew cHeeTHaM
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the members of staf are really friendly. Another café, No 178, in New Cross is also nice as it always has something diferent and unexpected going on. It’s a great community spot – and the cofee is pretty good too. One of my best recent fnds has been a Chinese restaurant called Silk Road where I had one of the best meals this year, I can’t recommend it highly enough. The Begging Bowl in Peckham is a great place for full and favoursome Thai street food. The food is simple, no nonsense and completely delicious. ‘If I’m in the City, I’m usually at Cinnamon Kitchen, my second restaurant, in Devonshire Square, but if I’m not working I do like to go to 5CC near St Paul’s Cathedral for a drink. I also like to visit the Monument, which provides fabulous views of London and commemorates the Great Fire of London, for just £4
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– be prepared for some exercise going up the stairs! At night, you can’t beat the Southbank for the stunning views – it really makes you appreciate how beautiful London can be. ‘On my days of I spend time with my family or I might take my favourite walk from London Bridge to Shakespeare’s Globe theatre. There are plenty of little streets to meander through on the way and a great view of the river; this is an area where you feel there’s a huge amount of history. If I’m having some ‘me’ time then I love to read suf poetry and, as I’m a big cricket fan, I like to catch a match when I can. ‘My tips for visitors to London are to see the exhibitions and museums, and to walk a lot. I fnd you only really get a true sense of a place when you walk around it – it’s only then that you notice those hidden-away shops and bars.’
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Bicester Village New oPeNINgS Gina
Located just one hour away from central London, Bicester Village is surrounded by picturesque countryside and is close to the historic city of oxford. Bicester Village plays host to more than 130 boutiques from leading bigname brands and creative up-and-coming labels. Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, oxfordshire oX26 6wD, +44 (0)1869 323200, bicestervillage.com Opening times Monday-Friday: 10am – 7pm Saturday: 9am – 8pm Sunday: 10am – 7pm* *on Sundays Burberry, gucci, Hugo Boss and Polo Ralph Lauren open at 11.30am for browsing and at 12pm for shopping; they close at 6pm. Prada and Versace open from 12pm to 6pm for shopping.
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gina’s shoes come in sculptural styles that demonstrate an imaginative use of cut, colour and fabric. Peruse the collection and admire the meticulous attention to detail evident in each pair.
Oscar de la Renta Add a touch of Hollywood glamour to your wardrobe with a trip to oscar de la Renta. the designer is known for producing inherently feminine pieces that are red-carpet ready.
British Designers’ Collective Curated by gQ associate editor Robert Johnston, the British Designers’ Collective pop-up features collections from more than 15 of Britain’s emerging and established menswear designers.
S H O P | 87
PeRFeCt DAY
How to get tHeRe
10am
By Shopping Express®
whether you’re looking for sandals, boots, platforms or ballerina pumps, the sophisticated range at Rupert Sanderson is sure to impress.
the Shopping express® is the daily* coach service from central London to Bicester Village, one of the world’s premier luxury shopping destinations. *excludes 25 December ticket prices: Adult return £25 Child return £20 (up to 15 years of age)
11am Stop for lunch at Italian restaurant Carluccio’s. the menu includes fresh pasta, risotto and salad dishes while the atmosphere is lively and relaxed.
3pm Hearts on Fire provides a selection of the world’s fnest cut diamonds and is known as a leader in the international feld. Prepare to be dazzled.
5pm end your day admiring the stylish, hardwearing and practical luggage at Samsonite. An item from here will be ideal for transporting your purchases home safely.
By Train there are regular services – up to four an hour – from London Marylebone to Bicester North station; the journey can take as little as 42 minutes. the Bicester Village Shuttle Bus will whisk you to your favourite boutiques. By Car the journey from London takes 60 minutes. take the M40 motorway to exit nine. Follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester and then follow the signs to Village Retail Park and Bicester Village outlet Centre. the car park is free. If you are using a satellite navigation system, the postcode is oX26 6wD.
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Translations РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 44: Wool's Worth
Модная овечка
Ведущие дома моды от Prada до Paul Smith закупают натуральные ткани в Великобритании, – рассказывает Доминик Фенн globalblue.com
Сто лет назад один из британских городов оказал значительное влияние на всю мировую моду. Многие наверняка предположили, что это Лондон, однако речь идет совсем о другом городе на севере Англии под названием Брэдфорд. В те времена Брэдфорд был крупным промышленным центром Британии с сотней текстильных фабрик, которые занимались производством известной на весь мир шерсти. Одной из причин такого успеха было обилие пресной воды, необходимой для очистки шерсти Со временем количество действующих заводов значительно сократилось, и лишь немногим удалось просуществовать до наших дней. Тем не менее, многие из традиционные навыков производства продолжали передаваться от поколения к поколению и даже сейчас в эпоху современных технологий, они все еще не теряют своей ценности. Крупнейшая в мире текстильная компания Woolmark Company совсем недавно отметила свое 50-летие. Помимо оказания поддержки молодым британским дизайнерам, компания способствует развитию технологий производства и
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переработки шерсти по всей стране. Международная премия Woolmark быстро становится одной из самых желанных наград среди дизайнеров. В числе ее лауреатов – британский бренд Sibling и бельгийский дизайнер Христиан Вийнантс. Три года назад компания Woolmark запустила проект под названием Loom to London, который помогает молодым дизайнерам завоевать новые горизонты. Одтн из таких дизайнерских брендов – Teatum Jones, расположенный в Лондоне и занимающийся созданием роскошной женской одежды. Бренд существует уже три года и за это время ему удалось завоевать немало поклонников, очарованных оригинальными принтами и инновационным подходом к текстилю. В результате изделия марки стали самыми продаваемыми в универмаге Liberty в отделе международных товаров. Благодаря организации Woolmark Company и ряду британских фабрик, компания смогла создать жаккардовые ткани с 3D-рельефом. «Их создание стало возможным благодаря современным технологиям», – говорит дизайнер Роб Джонс, который совместно с Катериной Театум основал марку Teatum Jones. После того, как 3D ткань была готова, другая фабрика помогла Джонсу с ламинированием жаккарда, сохранив при этом
3D элементы ткани. «Наше стремление производить все вещи на территории Великобритании потребовало особых отношений с производителями сырья и фабриками», – говорит Джонс. «Работая с такими сложными по структуре тканями, мы осознали необходимость тесного сотрудничества с каждым из производителей. Нам очень повезло, что практически у нашего порога существуют такие талантливые мастера, творящие с тканью буквально чудеса». Бренд Teatum Jones присоединился к длинному списку производителей предметов интерьера и модной одежды, которые всецело или отчасти полагаются на британские фабрики. Prada и Louis Vuitton, например, предпочитают закупать определенные материалы у британских поставщиков, причиной тому – высочайшее мастерство и многочисленные инновации. Традиционный британский лейбл мужской одежды Dunhill знаменит своим современным подходом к моде, несмотря на более чем столетнюю историю. В последнее время компания направляет множество инвестиций в строительство новой фабрики в восточной части Лондона, а также не перестает отдавать предпочтение качественным тканям британского
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производства. Paul Smith – еще одна подлинно британская марка. Ее костюмы ценятся по всему миру, включая те страны, где климат намного жарче английского, именно поэтому компания использует тонкую и легкую ткань Cool Wool, которую производит фабрика Joseph H Clissold в Брэдфорде. Конечно, успех британских текстильных фабрик стал возможен благодаря удовлетворению нужд клиентов по всему миру. «Порой мы получаем самые невероятные заказы от клиентов», – говорит Найджел Берч, управляющий модернизацией и совершенствованием продукции в компании WT Johnson & Sons, которая занимается покраской и окончательной обработкой ткани для клиентов из разных стран мира. «Однажды мы вплели нить из 24-каратного золота в ткань для костюма стоимостью 700 000 фунтов, а также украсили ткань нефритом для одного из наших японских клиентов. У нас также был заказчик в Шотлании, который хотел получить ткань, вымоченную в виски, – мы всегда стараемся выполнить желания наших клиентов!». woolmark.com, teatumjones.com, dunhill.co.uk, paulsmith.co.uk, clissold.co.uk, wtjohnson.co.uk
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52: Ask The Expert: Jo Malone
Мнение эксперта: Джо Мэлоун В детстве Джо Мэлоун создавала парфюмерные композиции из цветов, подражая матери – профессиональному косметологу. Прежде чем открыть Jo Malone London, она работала флористом и готовила масла для ванны, крема и ароматические свечи. Постепенно дело развивалось, салоны открывались по всему миру, и в 2011 году компания Estée Lauder взяла на себя управление молодым брендом. Совсем недавно Мэлоун представила изысканную серию Jo Loves, в которую вошли косметика и аксессуары для дома. Джо Мэлоун поделилась с Кэти Янг профессиональными рекомендациями по выбору парфюма jomalone.co.uk, joloves.com 1. Определите собственный аромат кожи «Одна из самых больших ошибок, на мой взгляд, ориентироваться на опыт других людей в вопросах выбора духов. Кожа каждого из нас обладает уникальной химией, поэтому аромат может приобретать самые разные оттенки», - размышляет Мэлоун. Не дайте себя обмануть: прекрасный парфюм
PHOTO: © Andrew MerediTH
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подруги может совершенно иначе восприниматься на вашей коже. «Важно осознать, что вам больше всего нравится в трех любимых запахах: обычно это шлейф, отдельные нотки или общие ощущения». Проанализируйте ключевые характеристики аромата: например, он может быть легким, свежим или теплым.
2. Используйте цветовой шифр Выбирая персональный аромат, прислушивайтесь не только к обонянию. Имеет смысл представить, с каким цветом ассоциируется тот или иной запах, и тогда интуитивно можно определить, что именно подходит больше. Сама Мэлоун утверждает, что ее этому приему научила дислексия: «По сути,
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поиск аромата – это как выбор цвета, в который вы собираетесь себя раскрасить. Например, осенью и в канун Рождества будет много официальных мероприятий, на которые часто надевают что-нибудь красное. Красный цвет связан с рубиновым, насыщенным и ярким ароматом. Изумрудный зеленый – со спокойным цветочным запахом свежей гардении. Желтый напоминает о солнечном свете, легкости и цитрусах, а оранжевый – о терпкой корице». Цветовой шифр, объединяющий гардероб и парфюм, может гармонизировать образ, тем более что зачастую мы выбираем оттенки, характерные для конкретного сезона. 3. Учитывайте оттенок кожи В зависимости от тона кожи букет парфюма может также раскрываться по-разному. Людям с более темной кожей подойдут насыщенные запахи, со светлой – легкие и цветочные. «Это тоже связано с химией тела, - считает Мэлоун. – Даже рацион питания имеет значение. Загоревшая кожа привычна к солнечному воздействию, и обычно в ней больше масла, а это серьезно влияет на раскрытие аромата». 4. Не торопитесь Для правильного выбора, нужно немало времени: «Выберите четыре или пять вариантов и сделайте небольшой globalblue.com
перерыв. Лучше всего вдохнуть запах кофейных зерен или лимонного шербета, чтобы дать отдохнуть рецепторам», - советует Мэлоун. Не зря в бутиках парфюмерных лейблов премиум-класса принято всегда держать кофейные зерна под рукой. Чтобы понять, подходит ли вам конкретный парфюм, нанесите его именно на кожу, а не на одежду или тестер. Мэлоун рекомендует остановиться на трех лучших вариантах - и только на следующий день принять окончательное решение. 5. Не забывайте про сезонность Выбирать ароматы лучше в соответствии с временем года. «Если летом вам понравились сандаловые нотки, то обратите внимание на теплые дубовые тона к зиме. В холодное время года уместны будут древесные, пряные и кожаные оттенки, утверждает Мэлоун. – Если вам по душе, например, Passion от Annick Goutal с его ванилью и жасмином, то присмотритесь к сладким парфюмам с янтарными цветочными нотами и, лучше всего, медом. Поклонникам насыщенных цветочных мотивов, точно понравится более спокойный ночной жасмин». Мэлоун также рекомендует по-разному использовать парфюмы в зависимости от времени года: «Зимой я наношу духи прямо на кашемировые свитера с объемным воротом или большие мягкие шарфы».
PHOTO: © LOuisa Parry
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88: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали
покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохораните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум £30-£50 и сэкономьте до 11% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
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美文翻译
44: Wool's Worth 羊毛的价值 从Prada到 Paul Smith，Dominique Fenn 带我们观察英国先锋时装大牌 如何使用天然面料 一百年前的伦敦还仅仅是英格兰北部 的一个城市，尚未成为国际时装先锋。 而 布拉德 福德是当时英国的工 业中 心，被称为国际上的羊毛之都，拥有上 百家羊毛工厂。布拉德福德盛产羊毛 的原因之一来当地于用来清洗羊毛的 软质水源 。 多年来，运作的羊毛工厂（也称 作坊）大幅减少，仅存下来工厂的屈指 可数。所幸很多手工艺被世世代代流 传下来，为机械化的面料行业存留了 宝贵的竞争力。 Woolmark公司是世界顶尖的羊 毛面料机构，最近刚刚庆祝了它的50 年周年纪念。它一直致力于赞助年轻 的设计师，并支持英国工厂化生产中 存留的手工业制造。国际Woolmark 奖迅速成为设计师奖项中最炙手可热 的奖项；之前的获奖者包括英国品牌 Sibling和比利时品牌Christian Wijnants。 三年前进驻伦敦的Woolmark 给 新新设计师提供了更多工厂生产的选 择，如 Teatum Jones这个伦敦奢华女 装品牌。三年后的今天Teatum Jones 以其美丽的印花和创意的改造面料著 称，成了Liberty百货里最热卖的女装 品牌。 感谢 Wo ol m a r k 公司和英国制 造，Teat um Jones 成功地创造出了 3D提花布料。与Catherine Teatum 合伙创建 Teatum Jones 的首席设计 师Rob Jones说：“我们运用最新的技 术研制出了这种面料”。3D 面料被打 印出来的同时，Teatum Jones在3D面 globalblue.com
料不被压平的状态下叠加提花。 “对于英国制造的热忱源于 我们 搭建 工 厂设 计与手工作 坊的 桥 梁，” Johns说。“加工如此精致的面料 和衣服要求我们与每一位供应商保持 紧密的联系。我们为能垂手可得如此 精湛的手工艺而感到万分幸运。” Teatum Jones 像众多英国乃至 国际品牌一样，加入了携手英国制造 的行列：例如Prada和Luis Vuitton， 他们也从英国制造业引进专业的创新 面料。 至臻 英国男装品牌 D u n h i l l 在 创建一百年后仍保有摩登的气质，品 牌正在建立新的东伦敦工厂，鼎力支 持英国工厂制造中的面料品质。Paul Sm it h 是另一个富有英国性格的品 牌，他的西装遍布世界包括一些比英 国气候炎热的国家，所以使用由布拉 德福德面料供应商Joseph H Clissold 制造的凉爽羊毛、上乘轻质面料。 当然满足顾客需求是英国面料工 厂的成功缘故。WT Johnson & Sons 是面料染色和加工专供商，其产品研 发经理 N i g el Bi rch 说：“我们收到 来自客户的各种要求。一次将24克拉 金 织 进一件 价值七十万英镑的西装 面料当中。我们还把玉缝进面料为一 个日本客户带来好运。还有一个苏格 兰顾客希望他们 的面 料中能有威士 忌——我们总是试着满足我们顾客的 需求！” woolmark.com, teatumjones.com, dunhill.co.uk, paulsmith.co.uk, clissold.co.uk, wtjohnson.co.uk
52: Ask The Expert: Jo Malone 提问行家 受美容师母亲的启发，Jo Malone自 童年时代就开始使用鲜花制作香水。 在伦敦创建 Jo M a lone 品牌并贩卖 沐浴油、面霜与蜡烛之前，她曾是一 名花匠。目前品牌已在全球范围内设
99 店，并于 2 011 年 被 雅诗兰黛集团收 购。Malone 之后推出了 Jo Loves系 列，这条精致的产品线包括美容产品 与家居用品。在此，她与Katy Young 分享了选购香水的私房秘诀 jomalone.co.uk, joloves.com
香味，M a lone 建议。想象一种香水 可以 用 什么“ 颜 色” 来 代 表，是 一 种 直观与细致的寻觅合 适香 氛的方法 （Malone 表示她是在克服阅读障碍 症的时候发现了这一诀窍）。“在寻找 某种味道时，你差不多该去试想你想 要表现哪种颜色。譬如，在各种正式 场合频繁的秋季与圣诞季，你或许会 穿戴红色。红色可通感为浓郁、红宝石 色与经过加热的香味。而美丽的翠绿 则让人联想到初绽栀子花的清雅；黄 色可理解为阳光、清淡与柑橘味，橙色 则代表焦肉桂。”为您的衣橱进行色 彩解码并搭配香氛，或许是一种使味 道和谐平衡的做法，因为我们的穿着 往往反映着季节的变化。
1.找到自己的味道 “ 我 认 为人们 最 大 的 误 区 就 是 购 买 在 他 人 身上 闻 起 来不 错 的 香水；实 际 上，所有人 的皮 肤 基因都 是不同 的，”Malone指出。不要轻易为朋友使 用的香水动心，因为它在你的皮肤上 不会散 发出同样的味道。“窍门是要 找到你最喜欢的三款香水的共性—— 可能是一种思绪、一种香调或是一种 感觉。”例如去钻研某款香水的个性， 并自问其是否淡雅、清新或是温暖。
3.了解肌肤色调 在投资香水前需要先了解自己的皮肤 颜色，因为香水在不同类型的皮肤表 面停留的方式并不相同。深色肌肤人 群更适合较为浓重的香调，而浅色肌 肤 人群则适合清淡花香调。“这与身 体化学有关，”Malone 表示。“这甚至 与我们的饮食也有关系。深色、经过日 晒的皮肤往往习惯于暴露在日光之中， 并含有更多油脂，这会极大地影响香 水的表现。”
2.色彩解码 不 要只使 用鼻子 来决定自己的 招牌
PHOTO: © LOuisa Parry
4. 切勿急躁 挑选一款香水需要时间与空间。“最多 同时试闻四或五种香水，中途休息一 下并嗅闻咖啡豆或柠檬冰霜来清清鼻 子，”Malone建议，并指出高级香氛品 牌至少会常备咖啡豆。为准确了解香 水是否真的在自己身上闻起来不错， 应该将其喷在皮肤上进行测试。将您 的选择范围缩小到三个，然后在第二 天返回店中进行最终选择，Malone 提议。
5.季节性香氛 为一 年中的不同时节选 择不同的香 水。“如果你在夏天喜欢素心兰，在冬
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الفانيل والياسمي الناعمة) ،اختاري عطرا ً ناعمً برائحة العنب والزهور ،والفضل أن تختاري شيئاً فيه رائحة العسل .وإن كنت تحبّي عطور الزهار القويّة ،اختاري ياسمي اللّيل" .كم تشح Maloneأنّه يكن تغيي طريقة استخدام العطر بحسب الوسم: "أحبف الشتاء أن أرشّ ه عل كنزات العالية ّ الياقات من الكشمي أو عل وشاح كبي من الكشمي". 88: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free عندما تتس ّوق حول العال ،تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة
تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من 270, 000متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال. فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل كل سنة؟ ما غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق أينم تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عل طلب الخاص بغلوبل بلو Global استداد الضيبة ّ Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت. .2أطلب ف طريق العودة إل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب الخاصة بناw. الستداد ّ للت ّصال: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111
أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره £30-£50وادّخر حتّى 11%من ثن مشتياتك .يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري .ف بعض الطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي.
天偏爱橡树与苔藓——那么你在冬天 也会喜欢木质与辛辣香调，以及皮革 香调，” Malone 表示。“举例而言，如 果你喜欢Annick Goutal的Passion （以甜美香草和茉莉香味著称），执 着于气味香甜的琥珀花香调——带有 。蜂蜜香调的香氛也会是你的心头好 同样的，如果您喜爱浓郁上头的花香 调，那就选夜茉莉。”Malone 还表示 同款香氛在不同季节的使用方法也不 尽相同：“在冬天，我喜欢将香水喷在 ”。大翻领羊绒衫或大羊绒围巾上
88: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的 27 万多 家商店消费时，环 球蓝联（ G l o b a l B l u e ）购 物 退 税 服 务（ Ta x F r e e 。Shopping）为您节约购物开销 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球 蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税， 您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星 标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们 简单的退税过程： 1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联 退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free 。Form），并记得保存小票 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城 市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格 上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点 。领取您的退税款 联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费£ 30 -£50 并且节约高达购买 价格11%的税。请注意：最终退款将包 含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续 费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单 。位收取现金退税手续费 globalblue.com
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الخدعة لنّها تعان عسا ً ف القراءة)" .عندما تريدين اختيار عطر ،تخ ّيل أنّك تختارين لوناً ترسمي به .عل سبيل الثال ،ف فصل الخريف وعيد اليلد حي تكث الناسبات الرسميّة ،قد ترتدين اللّون الحمر الذي يُتجم إل عط ٍر غني ومحموم .قد يعني اللّون الخض الزم ّردي الجميل الهدوء مثل زهرة غاردينيا جديدة متفتّحة؛ والصفر يعني الشمس والضوء والحمضيّات والبتقال يعني قرفة محروقة". يكن تنسيق ألوان ملبسك مع عطرك إذ غالباً تعب ألوان ملبسنا عن الوسم. ما ّ .3إفهمي ألوان البشة خذي بعي العتبار لون بشتك قبل أن تختاري عطرا ً إذ يستجيب كل نوع بشة إل الرائحة بطريق ٍة مختلفة .تلئم العطور القويّة البشة الدكن ف حي تناسب روائح الزهار الخفيفة البشة الفتح .تقول Maloneف هذا الصدد" :المر متعلّق بطريقة تفاعل الجسم وبا نأكل .البشة السمراء الداكنة أشعة الشمس وغالباً ما تكون معتادة عل ّ غنيّة بالزيوت ،المر الذي يؤث ّر عل الرائحة إل ح ّد كبي".
.1اعرف ذوقك الخاص تقول " :Maloneأعتقد أ ّن الخطأ الكب الذي نرتكبه هو اختيار عطر زكّ عل شخص منا بشة مختلفة" .ل ّ آخر؛فلكل واح ّد ّ تدعي عطر صديقتك يخدعك إذ لن يبعث سف الرائحة نفسها عل بشتك" .يكمن ال ّ إيجاد أمور تحبّينها ف أجمل ثلثة عطور لديك؛ غالباً ما يوجد ميزة أو عنص أو شعور ".فكّري بخصائص العطر واسأل نفسك إن كان خفيفاً أو منعشاً أو دافئاً عل سبيل الثال. .2عنص اللّون ل تنصح Maloneبأن تستخدمي مج ّرد أنفك لتحدّدي عطرك الفضّ ل .تعتب أ ّن التفكي بالعطر من حيث "اللّون" الذي تعتقدين أنّه يتناسب معه هو طريقة بديه ّية وبسيطة للتكيز عل العطر الذي تسعي إليه توصلت إل هذه (تقول Maloneإنّها ّ
.4ل تستعجل ستحتاجي إل الوقت والجال لدى اختيار عطر. تعتقد Maloneأنّه عل علمات العطور الفاخرة أن تقدّم ف محلتها حبّات ب ّن عل القل وتشح قائلة" :اختاري أربعة أو خمسة ّ عطور كح ّد أقص ث ّم استيحي وتنشّ قي حبّات ب ّن أو مثلّجات بنكهة اللّيمون لتنقية أنفك". الطريقة الفضل لتعرف كيف ستكون رائحة ترش العطر التجريبي العطر عليك ،هي أن ّ عل بشتك .احصي خياراتك بثلثة ث ّم عودي اليوم التال لتختاري. .5روائح موسم ّية اختاري عطورا ً لختلف أوقات السنة .تقول " :Maloneإن كنت تحبّي عطور الشيب ف الصيف ،استخدمي روائح السنديان والطحالب ف الشتاء ،ستحبّي ف هذا الفصل روائح الخشاب والتوابل والجلود .إن كنت عل سبيل الثال تحبّي عطر Passionمن ( Annick Goutalالعروف بروائح
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يقول Jonesف هذا الصدد" :تولّد شغفنا لتصنيع كل شء ف بريطانيا من حاجتنا لخلق علقة وطيدة مع الص ّنعي والغازل التي نتعامل معها .لنّنا نعمل عل ملبس وأقمشة دقيقة ومبتكرة ،بات من كل من الضوري أن نعمل عن قرب مع ّ مز ّودينا .من حسن حظّنا أنّه لدينا حرفيّي ماهرين قريبي م ّنا لنتمكّن من تحقيق ذلك". ما Teatum Jonesإل إحدى العلمات التجاريّة البيطان ّية والدول ّية الختصة بالديكور الداخل والزياء التي تضع ّ ثقتها بالعامل البيطانيّة :للحصول عل بعض القمشة ،تلجأ PradaوLouis Vuitton عل سبيل الثال إل معامل بريطانيّة لتمتّعها بالخبة والبتكار. تعتمد علمة Dunhillالبيطان ّية الشهية ف مجال ملبس الرجال مقارب ًة عصيّة بالرغم من إرثها العريق .تستثمر الشكة ف معمل جديد شقي لندن وتدعم جودة الصناعة البيطانيّة بق ّوة .من العلمات الخرى الغن ّية بالزايا البطيان ّية علمة Paul .Smithتشتهر بدلتها حول العال با ف ذلك ف البلدان الكث ح ّرا ً من بريطانيا، لذا تستخدم الشكة قمش Cool Wool الناعم الخفيف الوزن من ُصنع Joseph H Clissoldف .Bradford بالطبع ،حقّقت شكات القمشة البيطانيّة نجاحات باهرة لتلبيتها طلبات الزبائن .يقول Nigel Birchمدير تطوير النتج ف شكة WT Johnson & Sons التي تصبغ وتصنع القمشة لزبائن حول العال: "نتلقّى كافّة أنواع الطلبات من الزبائن .قمنا بحياكة ذهب عيار 24ف قمش استخدم لخياطة بدلة بلغت قيمتها 700ألف جنيه استليني وصنعنا قمشاً محبوكاً بحجر الجاد الكريم آملي أن يجلب الحظ لزبون يابان. كم طلب م ّنا زبون اسكتلندي م ّرة إضافة الويسك إل القمش – نحاول دائاً تلبية طلبات زبائننا!" ،woolmark.com ،teatumjones.com ،dunhill.co.uk ،paulsmith.co.uk clissold.co.uk ،wtjohnson.co.uk
52: Ask The Expert: Jo Malone إسأل الخبية
تأث ّرت Jo Maloneبوالدتها خبية التجميل فبدأت تصنع العطور من الزهار عندما كمنسقة أزهار قبل أن كانت طفلة .عملت ّ تنشئ علمة Jo Malone Londonوتبيع زيوت استحمم ودهانات وشموعاً من صنعها. ازدهرت العلمة وافتتحت متاجر حول العال ث ّم انتقلت ملك ّيتها إل Estée Lauderسنة .2011أطلقت Maloneحديثاً خ ّ ط Jo Lovesالذي يشمل مستحضات تجميل وأغراضاً للمنزل .تفصح ف هذا الحديث مع Katy Youngعن أسار اختيار عطر jomalone.co.uk ،joloves.com
globalblue.com
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ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية 44: Wool's Worth
ُصنع ف بريطانيا
من Pradaإل ،Paul Smithتلجأ دور الزياء الرائدة عال ّياً إل بريطانيا كمصدر لقمشتها الطبيعيّة ،تقرير Dominique Fenn
منذ مئة سنة ،ل يكن للندن أي تأثي عل الزياء العال ّية ،بل مدينة أخرى شمل إنكلتا .كانت Bradfordف قلب الصناعة البيطانيّة واشتهرت كعاصمة عاليّة للصوف إذ ض ّمت النطقة الحيطة مئات العامل .وقد تف ّوقت Bradfordف هذا الجال نتيجة توافر الياه العذبة الستخدمة لتنظيف الصوف. ومع مرور الوقت ،انخفض عدد العامل العاملة (العروفة أيضاً بالغازل) بشكلٍ ملحوظ ول يبق منها سوى قلّة .لكن ورثت الجيال التعاقبة الهارات الكتسبة التي ما زالت بالغة الهميّة ف هذا الجال التنافس بالرغم من التط ّور الحرز بوجود اللت. احتفلت مؤخّرا ً منظّمة The Woolmark Companyالرائدة عال ّياً ف مجال صناعة الصوف بعيدها الخمسي. لطالا عملت عل دعم الص ّممي الشباب
ونش التوعية عن الهارات الوجودة ف الصناعة البيطانيّة .ونشي ف هذا الطار إل ازدياد شهرة International Woolmark Prizeكإحدى أبرز جوائز الص ّممي ونذكر من الفائزين السابقي العلمة البيطانيّة Siblingوالص ّمم البلجيك .Christian Wijnants منذ ثلث سنوات ،أطلقت Woolmark مبادرة Loom to Londonلتع ّرف الص ّممي الشباب إل خيارات التصنيع ف هذه البلد ومنها علمة Teatum Jones الختصة باللبس النسائ ّية الفاخرة والتمركزة ّ ف لندن .اليوم وف عامها الثالث ،تشتهر العلمة بنقوشها الجميلة ومقاربتها البتكرة إل تطوير القمشة والتي باتت بفضلها العلمة الكث مبيعاً ف مجال اللبس النسائيّة ف متجر .Liberty بساعدة منظّمة The Wool Companyوالغازل البيطانيّة ،ابتكرت الشكة قمش جاكار ثلث البعاد .يقول الص ّمم Rob Jonesالذي أنشأ Teatum Jonesمع :Catherine Teatum "ابتكرنا القمش وأعددناه مستخدمي تقنيّات بالغة الحداثة" .بعد ابتكار القمش الثلث البعاد ،ساعد مغزل آخر الشكة عل تلميع الجاكار من دون إلغاء العنص الثلث البعاد فيه.
104 | P RO D U C T S
Souvenir
BRUSH UP London’s men have been enjoying the luxury of an expert wet shave for decades, and today the city’s barbershops are still thriving, catering for a new generation of bearded gentlemen. The quality and luxury of a close shave is proving timeless, as Murdock London’s Turner Shaving Set proves. Created by the team behind one of the most popular barbershops in the capital, the set includes Murdock’s own Mach 3 razor and Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88
a badger-hair shaving brush with luxury handles in a choice of three colours – wood, ivory and ebony. Presented with a chrome hanging stand, the set combines old-school style with modern performance, helping users to achieve a soft and smooth shave. rp Murdock London Turner Shaving Set, £180, Murdock London, 18 Monmouth Street, London WC2H 9HB, +44 (0)20 3393 7946, murdocklondon.com for map go to page 83
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