SHOP Milan AW14

Meisterstück and Hugh Jackman Crafted for New Heights Ninety years ago, Montblanc created a writing instrument that became an icon far beyond writing culture: the Montblanc Meisterstück, a symbol for the everlasting quest of achievement. To celebrate 90 years of Meisterstück, the new Meisterstück 90 Years has red gold-plated fittings and a nib specially engraved with a commemorative “90”. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com

Boutique Montblanc

Via Montenapoleone 27/B - Cso Vercelli 1 - LaRinascente - Malpensa Airport

PIAZZA DELLA SCALA 5, MILANO SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM

via Montenapoleone 16

Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬

德国指南

Welcome to Milan Even if you’ve visited Milan before, you may be surprised to discover Brera, a neighbourhood which houses many of the city’s art galleries and interior design boutiques – fnd out more in our feature on page 76. In this edition, we also take an in-depth look at the latest Italian clothing designs, where art and fashion combine, and reveal a selection of Milan’s leading restaurants (page 94). SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you everything you need to know about your chosen destination: the top global brands, the local favourites you shouldn’t miss and the essential stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the website. And don’t forget to download the Global Blue mobile app! With this edition of SHOP, the Global Blue app and your Global Blue Card, you’re ready to enjoy the best that Milan has to ofer.

Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

/globalblue

Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Nuremburg Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Tokyo Vienna Vilnius /globalblue

ILLUSTRATION: PING ZHU

Руководство Германия

Contributors

PHOTO: KATIe WILSON eLL

ILLUSTRATION: MARíA CORTe

María Corte María Corte created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Milan. Her graphic artwork has previously been commissioned by Apartamento, BBC Music magazine and Artafacta among others. Her artistic sensibility and use of geometric shapes makes her a perfect illustrator for this cover. Inspired by our feature about the infuence of art on Italian fashion, María’s illustration uses geometric shapes and layering to reveal models within the composition. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Beth Druce For this edition of SHOP Milan, Beth Druce has explored the city to discover its hidden delights for our Magic of Milan feature. Beth is a fashion writer who also works as a consultant for a variety of luxury companies. globalblue.com

Harriet Quick Esteemed fashion journalist Harriet Quick has held senior roles at the Guardian newspaper and British Vogue. She has contributed the cover feature for this issue of SHOP, looking at where art and fashion meet in Milan.

Hannah Lewis Hannah Lewis, assistant fashion and news editor at SHOP, studied English literature and language at the University of Oxford before going on to study for an MA in journalism at the London College of Fashion.

Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator María Corte Contributors Beth Druce, Maria Kirchen-Hill, Olivia Miles, Harriet Quick Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial intern Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Picture intern Rubi Ali Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Ai-Lun Huang, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Hibba Sayeed

James Morris

Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline Commercial artworking interns George Trinick, Ellie Vigors Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese assistant editor Hongying Xu Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Mengjiao Qu, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang Chinese interns Yunhan Fang, Tiantian Liu Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Project manager Bina Summan International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution and partnership manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy

G L O B A L B L U E I TA LY Country manager Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales manager Antonella Bertossi, Flavio Gatti Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Sales key account manager Salvatore Smith Sales account manager Erika Zahar International key account managers Stefano Cardinale, Sabrina Schiavone Key account managers Monica Affaticati, Benedetta Andreini, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Manuela Intili, Consuelo Murari, Alberta Reinach Marco Savino, Giordano Senzacqua Account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Nadia Busletta, Gloria Di Domenico, Laura Durante, Gabriele Giuntini, Sonia Mura Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

Contents p.66

P ro d u c t s 28 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from Milan this season 30 My Favourites uberta Zambeletti, owner of Milan’s Wait and see boutique, reveals her top places and products in the city 32 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 42 Street Style our pick of Milan’s best dressed for autumn/winter 2014/15

F e At u r e s 66 Cover Story: Creative Edge Infuential art movements are informing Milan’s latest fashion designs, Harriet Quick reports 76 The Magic Of Milan From hidden ateliers to traditional stores and cafés, the city has much to discover, as Beth druce fnds out 86 In Focus: The Aquazzura High Heel Aquazzura is responsible for one of the most recognisable shoes this decade. olivia Miles talks to edgardo osorio, the man behind the design

N eWs 48 Shop Window one store not to be missed in Milan 50 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products 62 In Store … … with claudio Antonioli in his boutique on Via Pasquale Paoli

e x Pe r I e Nce 94 Table Talk From classic Italian kitchens to contemporary chinese dumplings, Milan’s restaurants ofer a world of options for adventurous gourmands. Verity Hogan explores a selection of the city’s fnest 102 Stay In Style sHoP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

Above: Agnona autumn/winter 2014/15

Contents

Gu i de 108 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Milan, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights

t R a n S l at i O n S 144 Русский Перевод 154 美文翻译 162 日本語翻訳

eSSenti a lS 142 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping

SOu v e n i R 170 the essential item to bring home

E n g l i s h | Р ус с к и й | 中文

Online

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

GET SOCIAL PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

FASHION

COMPETITIONS

Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-theminute shopping tips and insider information.

/GlobalBlue /GlobalBlueRu

@GlobalBlue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

MILLA JOVOVICH SHOP MARELLA.COM MILANO corso Vittorio Emanuele corso XXII Marzo 4

MILANO | Piazza San Babila 3 | Tel. +39 02 76000366 10 Stores in the city

boggi.com | shop.boggi.com

28 | P RO D U C T S

Check Out

NORDIC FLAIR An Emilio Pucci handbag is a highly soughtafter item, and this intricately beaded creation is no exception. For Emilio Pucci’s latest collection, designer Peter Dundas has injected Nordic fair, taking inspiration from his Norwegian heritage. Viewed through the lens of Emilio Pucci’s traditional Italian glamour, the Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

bag features vibrant prints and is a celebration of colour, pattern and texture. On a base of classic black, eye-catching embellishments including embroidery and iridescent beading complete the intricate pattern and make this bag perfect for a special occasion. hl Emilio Pucci clutch, €1,056, Emilio Pucci, Via Montenapoleone 14, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 8356, emiliopucci.com * for map go to page 126

30 | P RO D U C T S

My Favourites: uBerta ZaMBeLetti Based in Milan, Uberta Zambeletti is a fashion designer, stylist, interior decorator and design consultant. In 2010 she opened Wait and See, a multibrand boutique flled with luxurious items which are carefully selected to refect her refned, eclectic aesthetic. Here Uberta talks to Ximena Daneri about her favourite products and places in Milan. waitandsee.it

1. ‘I love Missoni for its timeless and luscious pieces’

Missoni, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3555, missoni.com

2. ‘My signature fragrance is Philosykos by Diptyque’ Diptyque Philosykos eau de parfum’ Diptyque Philosykos eau de parfum, 100ml, €98, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3674 1359, diptyqueparis.eu

PHOTO: © gOrunway.cOm

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

S H O P | 31

3. ‘Alberto Levi sources rare and refned antique textiles and carpets’

Allegra Hicks Pandora carpet, from €6,200, Alberto Levi Gallery, Via San Maurilio 24, 20123 Milan, +39 02 8901 1553, albertolevi.com

4. ‘Anne Grand Clèment produces beautiful handbags’ Anne Grand Clèment bag, €350, Wait and See, Via Santa Marta 14, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7208 0195, annegrandclement.com

5. ‘For the best contemporary American furniture, visit this recently opened store in the 5 Vie district’ BDDW, Via Santa Marta 19A, 20123 Milan, +39 02 2222 9467, bddw.com

6. ‘This is in a beautiful and charming setting, with delicious all-Italian food’ The Small, Via Niccolò Paganini 3/Piazza Argentina, 20124 Milan, +39 02 2024 0943, thesmall.it

globalblue.com

32 | P RO D U C T S

monochrome masterpiece Mix up a classic neutral look with textures, prints and fashion-forward shapes 1

1. Hugo Boss boots, €595, Hugo Boss, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 4667, hugoboss.com

3. Swarovski Stardust bracelet, €79, Swarovski, Corso Vercelli 3, 20144 Milan, +39 02 433040, swarovski.com

2. Cos jacket, €135, Cos, Corso Venezia 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0649, cosstores.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

4. Marina Rinaldi trousers, €168, Marina Rinaldi, Piazza del Liberty 2, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 20122 Milan, +39 02 782065, marinarinaldi.com

34 | P RO D U C T S

BRING OUT THE BURGUNDY This winter’s jewel colour is a juicy, rich antidote to grey skies 1

1. Max Mara coat, €1,100, Max Mara, Via Victor Hugo 1/Via Orefci, 20123 Milan, +39 02 8901 3509, maxmara.com

3. Bally Bonyta boots, €1,295, Bally, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8406, bally.com

2. Meissen necklace, €3,800, Meissen, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8942 3725, meissen.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

4. Salvatore Ferragamo bag, €1,750, Salvatore Ferragamo, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0054, ferragamo.com

PHOTO: (2) WEYER & GRILL STUDIOS

S H O P | 35

CHIC COMFORTS Elevate of-duty style with superior fabrics and a touch of sparkle

1. Canali cashmere sweater, €610, Canali, Via Pietro Verri 1-3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 0365, canali.com

3. Victorinox Infantry watch, €360, Grimoldi, Piazza del Duomo 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 876092, victorinox.com

2. Montblanc Meisterstück iPhone 5 and 5s holder, €155, Montblanc, Via Montenapoleone 27B, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7720, montblanc.com

4. A Testoni backpack, price on request, A Testoni, Via Montenapoleone 19, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3697, testoni.com

globalblue.com

5. Alberto Guardiani trainers, €525, Alberto Guardiani, Corso Venezia 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1697, albertoguardiani.com

36 | P RO D U C T S

WILD CHILD Luxury leather and animal print provide a playful take on winter dressing 5

4 1. Hermès Zebra Pegasus scarf, €895, Hermès, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3495, hermes.com 2. Mango trousers, €34.99, Mango, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 24-28, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7601 4530, mango.com 3. Pomellato Victoria ring, €10,270, Pomellato, Via San Pietro all’Orto 17, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6086, pomellato.com 4. Casadei shoes, in red or black, €650, Casadei, Via Sant’Andrea 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 8293, casadei.com 5. Escada coat, €3,499, Escada, Via Agnello 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4798 8130, escada.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

shop at santonishoes.com

38 | P RO D U C T S

GADGET GUY

For the technologically minded, these innovations prove that state of the art can also mean stylish

1. Frends headphones, €219.95; headphone caps, €49.95, Excelsior, Galleria del Corso 4, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7630 7301, wearefrends.com 2. Nixon watch, €280, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, nixon.com

3. Cos document case, €45, Cos, Corso Venezia 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0649, cosstores.com 4. Lacoste trainers, €99.90, Lacoste, Via Dante 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8050 9618, lacoste.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

5. Bang & Olufsen Beolit 12 music system (iPhone not included), €699, Bang & Olufsen, Corso Magenta 30, 20123 Milan, +39 02 8909 6215, beoplay.com

CORSO VERCELLI 27 SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM

40 | P RO D U C T S

TAILORING WITH A TWIST

Update a sleek, sharp silhouette with whimsical and tactile accessories

1. Burberry pencil skirt, €1,195, Burberry, Via Pietro Verri 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 760 8201, burberry.com

3. Marella Moresca jacket, €189, Marella, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 2, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7601 2747, marella.com

2. Louis Vuitton hat, price on request, Louis Vuitton, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 1711, louisvuitton.com

4. Dolce & Gabbana shoes, €1,795, Dolce & Gabbana, Corso Venezia 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 4091, dolcegabbana.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

5. Jimmy Choo bag, €995, Jimmy Choo, Via Sant’Andrea 1A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4548 1770, jimmychoo.com

42 | P RO D U C T S

At Milan Fashion Week, tastemakers paired full suits with bomber jackets to create a more edgy look. Playful prints, sharp contrasting colours and whimsical accessories, such as Fendiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s furry bag, added a fun element to classic feminine silhouettes.

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

PHOTOS: Melanie Galea/THeSTreeTMuSe.iT

Street Style

S H O P | 43

globalblue.com

44 | P RO D U C T S

Milan street style stars let their accessories do the talking, and the clutch bag style reigns supreme this season, whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a metallic design from Roger Vivier, embellished by Mawi, or a pop artinspired version by Jimmy Choo.

PHOTOS: Melanie Galea/THeSTreeTMuSe.iT

Street Style

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

S H O P | 45

globalblue.com

48 | N E W S

PHOTO: MaTTeO Valle

Shop Window

CENTRE OF EXCELLENCE Milan’s newly opened Brian & Barry Building San Babila brings together the best the city has to ofer in terms of fashion, design, beauty and jewellery in an innovative way. Occupying an entire 1950s palazzo and spanning an impressive 12 storeys, it houses single-label boutiques as well as multibrand spaces devoted to clothing, accessories, homeware and technology. Don’t miss the beauty foor, which Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

has been created in collaboration with Sephora and is the frst retail space of its kind in the world. To add to the appeal, Brian & Barry has teamed up with Eataly to provide a choice of restaurants, cafés and gourmet food halls. What’s more, the building is open seven days a week from 10am to 10pm, so there’s no excuse not to drop by and discover Brian & Barry’s exciting new concept. irs Brian & Barry Building San Babila, Via Durini 28, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7600 5582, thebrianebarrybuilding.it * for map go to page 120

TOMMY HILFIGER STORE PIAZZA OBERDAN 2/A MILANO

50 | N E W S

AMERICAN DREAM

TRUE GENT

Inspired by a trip to Dallas as a teenager, the feisty new collection from German designer Philipp Plein is an homage to free-spirited women and features many items made in Italy. Crystal-encrusted boots, huge metal belt buckles, studded leather leggings and sumptuous furs, all in black, create a vision of a rock ’n’ roll cowgirl, while fashes of bright red tartan add a punk feel. Gold-studded leather gloves, stilettos, boots and handbags can also be found in this stunning new fagship store. gl Philipp Plein, Via della Spiga 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2098, philipp-plein.com * for map go to page 128

Bringing a dash of the dapper British gentleman to Milan, Hackett has opened its frst Italian standalone store, combining classic Milanese architecture with Hackett’s confdent, modern style. Hackett’s casualwear and childrenswear ranges can be found on the ground foor and are surrounded by artwork. Upstairs, visitors can browse the accessories, Mayfair and formal collections. The store also ofers an excellent bespoke service inspired by its Savile Row heritage. irs Hackett, Via Manzoni 38, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 5369, hackett.com * for map go to page 130

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

S H O P | 51

In brief:

From its creation in 1959 in a small factory in Italy, Stefanel has been known for its beautiful knitwear. Founded by Carlo Stefanel and now in the hands of his son Giuseppe, the label has

PHOTO: DANIELE OBERRAUCH/IMAXTREE.COM

— There is good news for those looking for homeware, as Vitra’s chic Home Collection is now available at the Design Supermarket La Rinascente.

WOOLLEN WONDERS

SHOP THE WORLD Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trip. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store and can also be downloaded for offine use enabling you to create your own itinerary. You can also sign up for the Global Blue Card and, once you’re logged in the My Tax Refund wallet becomes available, allowing you to track

globalblue.com

pending refunds. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase you make in every different country you visit. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

gained a sound reputation for knitted pieces of the highest quality. The new women’s collection is modern and stylish, using clean lines and simple colourways to great efect. Knitwear is still at the heart of the label, with everything from warm winter coats to matching separates realised in the softest cashmere. mkh Stefanel, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 20121 Milan, +39 02 805 1110, stefanel.com * for map go to page 114

52 | N E W S

WATCH THIS SPACE Founded in 1875, trusted watch brand Bulova has a rich history of innovation. Its original Accutron pieces had unprecedented accuracy and played an integral role in numerous space missions including the Apollo 11 moon landing in 1969. Bulova has now launched a range inspired by the original Accutron collection, featuring cutting-edge technology and modern design. A highlight of the range is the Bulova Accutron II Alpha, which features a green anodised aluminium dial ring and super-luminescent tuning fork encased in a sleek and streamlined modern case with a luxurious leather strap. hl Gioielleria Fugazzi, Via Torino 49, 20123 Milan, +39 02 8645 3575, bulova.com * for map go to page 134

PHOTO: Kevin nOrriS

WINTER WEAR The Italian label behind some of the best coats to ever grace a catwalk, Max Mara once again meets expectations this season. All styles, from trench coats to Pufa jackets, feature touches of masculine tailoring, and the materials, such as herringbone tweed and Prince of Wales tartan, are the stars of the show. The boxy, oversized waistcoat can be balanced by a sleek leather pencil skirt, while grey-on-grey layering enhances the diferent weaves and knits which can be found throughout the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s autumn/winter 2014/15 collection. hl Max Mara, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8849, maxmara.com * for map go to page 115

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

corneliani.com

54 | N E W S

TOP GEAR As winter approaches, a warm, well-made coat is a necessity. For men who don’t want to compromise style for practicality, Paul & Shark has the solution. Making use of two of nature’s most comforting fabrics, cashmere and sheepskin, the chocolate brown jacket from the Luxury collection is a weekend wardrobe essential. For a more fashion-forward look, this edgy bomber jacket, crafted in soft leather and wool, is an ideal choice. irs Paul & Shark, Via Montenapoleone 16, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8565, paulshark.it * for map go to page 126

RACING AHEAD Founded more than a century ago, Italian luxury leather label Trussardi 1911 is known worldwide as one of the country’s leading fashion houses. It started as a small family company making luxury gloves and was soon recognised for its excellent leather-working techniques, going on to become an ofcial Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

supplier of gloves to the British royal family. Today, Trussardi’s greyhound logo can be found on a range of items, from evening bags to casual footwear, and it also ofers ready-to-wear lines for men and women. hl Trussardi 1911, Via Sant’Andrea 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 0380, trussardi.com * for map go to page 124

Corso Buenos Aires Corner ViAle TunisiA inFo + 02 29532164

56 | N E W S

FEEL-GOOD FACTOR Since launching in 1986 Italian brand Hogan has continued to come up with smart-casual footwear that perfectly combines style and comfort. Its latest design, the H222, has a sporty rubber sole for ease of wear, while the stitching and perforation patterns on the upper are reminiscent of a traditional brogue. These are ideal for those who want to look chic on the move. gl Hogan, Via Montenapoleone 23, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 1174, hogan.com * for map go to page 126

Known by Milan’s most fashionable residents since the 1920s, when Stefano Serapian set up a specialist leather workshop, Serapian is admired throughout the city. By the 1960s, Serapian’s exquisite bags were being carried by the likes of Audrey Hepburn and today, Serapian is still a family-run business which continues to uphold its madein-Italy tradition. This season, look out for pieces designed with the brand’s signature woven leather, which dates back to 1947. irs Serapian, Via della Spiga 42, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 4451, serapian.com * for map go to page 128 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

PHOTOS (FROM TOP): GeRO CaCCiaTORe; eRdna.iT

ITALIAN STYLE

58 | N E W S

A-LIST LINES

INSIDE CAVALLI Roberto Cavalli’s new store on Via Montenapoleone – the brand’s largest – is the culmination of a lifelong dream for the famboyant designer. The interior is striking, with fve storeys connected by a mother-ofpearl staircase and a 15-metre-high video wall on each foor. The store carries the complete womenswear clothing and accessories collections, including Roberto Cavalli, Just Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

Cavalli and Cavalli Class. On the second foor, there’s an atelier where custom-made pieces can be ordered, and another foor is dedicated to homeware. For devotees of the eponymous designer, this is the perfect opportunity to immerse yourself in his world. df Roberto Cavalli, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 763 0771, robertocavalli.com * for map go to page 126

PHOTOS (FROM TOP): MAURO FABBIO STUDIO; FABIO IONA

The Serpenti collection of bags and accessories from the luxury Italian brand Bulgari has reached a status that few lines achieve and is a favourite among fashion editors as well as with Hollywood actresses. The new Serpenti Scales design features a linear frame with a top handle and a modern, architectural shape. Available in a range of colours, we are particularly taken with this eye-catching cobalt creation. Blue is one of the key colours of the season, and this soft and smooth calf leather handbag cannot fail to brighten any outft. hl Bulgari, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777001, bulgari.com * for map go to page 126

DIESEL PLANET STORE MILANO Piazza San Babila, 1/3

60 | N E W S

BEST OF BRITISH

PHOTO: DaviDe arena

Burberry continues to put British style on a global platform with the launch of a store in Milan’s Malpensa Airport. The UK brand has 11 stores in Italy and the new shop, located in Terminal 1, is the perfect pre-fight pit stop. The boutique stocks the Burberry London collection in addition to accessories, eyewear, fragrances and watches. Whether you’re in search of one of Burberry’s famous trench coats or a small gift, all can be found here. irs Burberry, Malpensa Airport, Terminal 1, 21010 Ferno, +39 02 7486 8684, burberry.com

MAKE IT A GOAL As well as excelling in fashion and food, Italians are also passionate about football, and the newly opened Casa Milan pays tribute to one of the country’s fnest teams, AC Milan. Visit the Mondo Milan museum to admire the club’s many trophies and enjoy interactive exhibits. Directly accessible from the museum Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

is the store, which stocks the team’s ofcial jerseys and merchandise and some exclusive items. Find out what it’s like to eat like Mario Balotelli at Casa Milan’s Cucina Milanello, which has the same chef as AC Milan’s training centre. irs Casa Milan, Via Aldo Rossi 8, 20149 Milan, +39 02 62281, casamilan.acmilan.com

porsche design Timepieces

FIRST IN BLACK. THE ORIGINAL.

Black Chronograph | www.porsche-design.com/timepieces

62 | N E W S

In Store: Antonioli Claudio Antonioli opened his frst boutique in Milan in 1987 and it soon became a stylistic reference point. A few years later, the store moved to its current location at Via Pasquale Paoli 1. Visitors to the store will fnd an expertly curated selection of menswear and womenswear and here, Ximena Daneri speaks to the owner about his fagship store.

‘My passion for fashion and clothes inspired me to create Antonioli. I have a number of stores throughout Italy which are multibrand boutiques that aim to include a progressive selection of international brands; they are always up to date with what’s currently in the spotlight. ‘Ten years ago, I relocated the store and expanded within the city. I’ve always loved Naviglio and thought of it as an important and historic place for Milan. When I was looking for a new place for Antonioli, I fell in love with this space; it was formerly the location of one of Milan’s frst silent theatres, which closed in 1916. ‘The boutique has also expanded to incorporate an old mechanic’s shop, which Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

was transformed into a glistening retail space. For my stores, I’ve always collaborated with important and talented architects, and this one was created by Storage Associati. It’s important to work together in order to create the best creative synergies. In the Milan store, we have taken cues from the history of the building and made them work today. Even after a century, some details survive, like an old cinema screen and a black stone funnel.’ Antonioli, Via Pasquale Paoli 1, 20143 Milan, +39 02 3656 6494, antonioli.eu

S H O P | 63

LAPERLA.COM

MILANO VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 1

Creative Infuential art movements are informing Milanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest fashion designs, Harriet Quick reports

Edge

68 | F E AT U R E S

144 / 162

154

Memorable fashion shows for the autumn/ winter season could also be described as artistic happenings

humour and guerrilla interventions over formal exhibitions and emphasised that any material, from newspapers to broken crockery, could be the subject and matter of art. In a tribute to Fluxus artist Joseph Beuys, who frequently covered objects, rooms and even himself in felt and leather, Prada’s show space in Milan was cloaked in thick grey Previous: Agnona autumn/winter 2014/15 Above (both): Prada autumn/winter 2014/15

PHOTOs: © GOrunwAy.cOm

Last season, designers were fxated with the botanical universe, using wild blooms and petal-like layers along with sufcient plant references to fll a natural history museum. For autumn and winter, they have turned their attention to the more enigmatic and intellectually challenging realm of modern art, specifcally to the Bauhaus and Fluxus movements and the ephemeral world of installation and performance art. The fashion/art friendship is as old as fashion itself and this latest courtship is resulting in high-profle collaborations and sponsorships of art fairs, such as Frieze London and Fiac in Paris, which kicks of the autumn season, as well as in more subtle infuences on cut, construction and presentations. In the research for her latest menswear and womenswear collections, Miuccia Prada (who also oversees Prada’s art foundation) delved into the radical work of the 1970s Fluxus movement. Fluxus comprised international artists with backgrounds in art, flm and music, who valued spontaneity,

industrial felt, which mufed the sound of the models’ wedge heels as they emerged from the catwalk, as if walking out of an underground art movement’s secret gathering. An almost anti-fashion style was evident: odd colour mixes (brown, yellow and black), necklaces, ties and fur trims brilliantly turned plain-speaking clothes into conversation interrupters. Other memorable fashion shows for the autumn/winter season could also be described as artistic happenings. A case in point was Agnona’s presentation which was modelled by Dree Hemingway, the brainy and beautiful great granddaughter of Ernest Hemingway. It took place in an Art Deco-inspired set that was lined in leather, sheepskin and feathers, and contained furry fowers and a feather skirting board. Agnona’s creative director Stefano Pilati projected the sensuality and tactility of the luxury brand that is owned by Italian powerhouse Ermenegildo Zegna. Wearing a wave-pattern appliquéd cocoon coat, leather evening gloves and wide-cut trousers, Hemingway appeared to be an extremely elegant art patron. Note that waves,

PHOTO: © GOrunway.cOm/alessandrO luciOni

PHOTO: linda nylind/cOurTesy OF Frieze

70 | F E AT U R E S

Above (from top): fashion and art collaborations are evident at art fairs like Frieze london, 2013; Prada autumn/winter 2014/15

72 | F E AT U R E S

The interest and emphasis on fabric and construction has led many designers to look to the Bauhaus art school

PHOTO: ÂŠ GOrunwAy.cOM

signifying ongoing change, was a favourite metaphor for the Fluxus movement. The interest and emphasis on fabric and construction has led many designers to look to the Bauhaus art school, which was founded by architect Walter Gropius in 1919 as a multidisciplinary arts and crafts institution. Bauhausâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s striking, ornament-free architecture, furniture and graphics have caught the imagination of fashion designers. Consuelo Castiglioni at Marni, and Pilati, have used bold graphic colourways, innovative fabrication and complex cutting techniques this season.

Above (from lef): Agnona; Marni, both autumn/winter 2014/15

At Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier, a man who is very learned and passionate about art and photography, created a compelling collection that he referred to as ‘a puzzle’. Fit-and-fare coat dresses and shifts featured appliquéd geometric panels that were also a lesson in the craft of construction. Eveningwear was intricately assembled from metres of tulle and chifon fabric in gradated ripples which, from afar, looked like delicate ink drawings. Above (both): Botega Veneta autumn/winter 2014/15

As the new season collections arrive in store, the artful formula will be put to the test. If you fnd yourself tempted by a cocooning grey felted coat, or a double-face cashmere panelled midi skirt, a colour-blocked sleeveless jacket, a silk shirt dress or a pair constructivist wedges, the art/fashion union has successfully spread its word prada.com, agnona.com, bottegaveneta.com, marni.com

PHOTOs: © GOrunway.cOm

74 | F E AT U R E S

76 | F E AT U R E S

The Magic

S H O P | 77

From hidden ateliers to traditional stores and cafés, there is much to discover in the city, as Beth Druce fnds out

of Milan

In Luca Guadagnino’s flm I Am Love, the action revolves around a prestigious Milanese family living in Villa Necchi Campiglio, an historic mansion hidden behind the hustle and bustle of the Duomo. It’s easy when visiting Milan to be distracted by the stunning architecture and 50 favours of gelato, but look beyond the obvious attractions and a diferent city is revealed, ready to engage you. While many European cities will welcome you with an outstretched arm, Milan can appear aloof but, as Robyn Lea, author of ‘Milan: Discovering Food, Fashion and Family in a Private City’, says, ‘In the same way that 147 / 164

156

Lef: Antonio Marras concept store

deeply private or reserved people can be hard to read and often misunderstood, so is the city of Milan.’ For Australian-born Lea, who moved to Milan at the age of 18, the city’s ‘tastemakers’ slowly reeled her in; names like Carla Sozzani, founder of 10 Corso Como, and the legendary designer Barnaba Fornasetti. ‘Milan is like a big creative machine, and when you live there, you want to be a part of that energy and creative force, or you won’t enjoy it,’ says Lea. Consequently, Lea urges visitors to immerse themselves in creative spaces, such as Antonio Marras’s concept store, an old factory where one could spend a day perusing the eclectic pieces. Finding the studio of metal sculptors Osanna and Madina Visconti di Modrone illustrates just how tricky the city can be to navigate. This intimate venue, Above (from top): Antonio Marras’s concept store; Robyn Lea, author of ‘Milan: Discovering Food, Fashion and Family in a Private City’

PHOTO: RObyn LeA

78 | F E AT U R E S

with its intricate accessories and avant-garde homeware, remains one of the city’s best-kept secrets. The atelier ‘has no sign on the street and is only accessed with permission from the doorman, through the ancient internal courtyard’ according to Lea. This is where tour provider Antiques & Boutiques can help. The company provides tailor-made tours which focus on the design, style, food and culture that captures the true spirit of Milan. The company says that its tours ‘are curated and led by passionate and dynamic locals who invite you to share the city that they know and love’. One of the stops on the tour is at the vintage shop Cavalli e Nastri in the Brera zone, a neighbourhood which houses many of Above (from top): Cavalli e Nastri; handmade bronze bowls by Osanna Visconti di Modrone

PHOTO: OsaNNa E MadiNa VisCONTi di MOdrONE/OsaNNaVisCONTi.COM

80 | F E AT U R E S

DsquareD2.com

the city’s art galleries and which is dotted with interior design boutiques. Another way to penetrate Milan’s exterior is via what Italians love the most, food, and in many ways it’s the culture of eating that’s signifcant rather than the food itself. Lea advises visitors to the city to start each day with cofee al bar at Taveggia, one of the oldest patisseries in Milan. Later in the day try Luini. Situated on Via Santa Redegonda it’s been baking panzerotti (stufed savoury pastries) and pizzas since Guiseppina Luini came to the city in 1949. Above (clockwise from top lef): Ex Mauri; the pool at Ceresio 7; Luini’s mezzaluna pizza; the interior of Luini

PHOTO: SIMONE SCIARRILLO

82 | F E AT U R E S

S H O P | 83

For dinner, head to chef Elio Sirroni’s restaurant Ceresio 7 with its exceptional views and flavours

‘Today the kids who used to come to eat panzerotti after school return with their own children,’ the Luini family explains. Locals also fock to Ex Mauri on Via Federico Confalonieri, where Venetian dishes such as calamari ripieni (stufed squid), pasta with courgette fowers, and crusted salt cod are light alternatives to rich and hearty Milanese cuisine. For dinner, head to chef Elio Sirroni’s restaurant Ceresio 7 with its exceptional views and favours. Finally, and in a completely diferent vein, the Fortura Giocattoli toyshop on Via Olmetto

PHOTO: MICHELANGELO PRINCIOTTA

84 | F E AT U R E S

Above (from top): Ceresio 7 interior; a dish from Ceresio 7

is the oldest in Milan, founded in 1914. It is the perfect example of somewhere that might not exude obvious appeal, yet retains a loyal following and represents the ‘real’ Milan. ‘The experiences most valuable take the most efort. And when a person is prepared to discover and uncover Milan and love the city even when the feeling is not reciprocated, eventually the barriers will be removed and the city will open her heart,’ Lea concludes antoniomarras.it, osannavisconti.it, cavallienastri.com, antiquesandboutiques.com, taveggia.it, luini.it, exmauri.com, ceresio7.com, fortura.it

86 | F E AT U R E S

S H O P | 87

In Focus:

The Aquazzura High Heel Aquazzura is responsible for one of the most recognisable shoes this decade. Olivia Miles talks to Edgardo Osorio, the man behind the design

ARTWORK: EDGARDO OSORIO

Iconic shoe design will always defne the era in which it was conceived: consider the platforms of the 1960s, the classic 1980s stiletto heel and the ballet pumps of the ’90s. And now, Aquazzura’s Sexy Thing cut-out bootie encapsulates all that is great and good about fashion in the 2010s. This variation of the closed-in ankle boot was created by Edgardo Osorio, the Colombian-born designer who founded Aquazzura in Florence in 2011; this was his frst design for his label. Following a decade working for Salvatore Ferragamo, Osorio had seen how Tuscany was home to the ‘best shoe craftsmen and best leathers in the world’ and decided that Italy was where he would launch his own label. His designs are available around the world, including in La Rinascente in Milan. Inspired by the writer Truman Capote’s glamorous female friends of the 1960s, whom

150 / 166

158

Above: sketch by Edgardo Osorio for the Aquazzura Sexy Thing design for autumn/winter 2013/14

88 | F E AT U R E S

fashion editor Giovanna Battaglia who was frequently photographed wearing the shoe in a variety of shades and the design became an instant hit among the fashion set. Battaglia’s exuberant style is a perfect match for the Sexy Thing, with its mix of sensual yet cutting-edge design and fashes of bright colour. What’s distinctive about the Sexy Thing beyond its

Today, the Sexy Thing bootie is worn by international style icons of different ages, from Cara Delevingne and Emma Watson to Solange Knowles and Natalia Vodianova

Capote called swans, Osorio sought to create a shoe for the ‘swans of today’. ‘I’m a Latin man and love to dance,’ he says. ‘I went to so many weddings and remember seeing girls take of their shoes before they started dancing. I wanted to create a shoe a girl could dance the night away in.’ Instantly recognisable due to its cut-out style and thin 11cm heel, it’s the sensual, skinbaring element of the design that gives it such a distinctive feel. ‘The cut-out is what makes it so sexy as it shows some skin, but the foot is still very much covered,’ explains Osorio. Following its launch in 2011, the shoe’s popularity was spearheaded by the Italian Above (from lef): Aquazzura creative director Edgardo Osorio; black wedge, spring/summer 2014

90 | F E AT U R E S

design is the vibrant selection of colourways in which it is available, in recognition of fashion’s current focus on bold, saturated hues. Today, the Sexy Thing bootie is worn by international style icons of diferent ages, from Cara Delevingne and Emma Watson to Solange Knowles and Natalia Vodianova. ‘I like to think that my shoes are transgenerational,’ says Osorio. ‘You can wear it all year round and dress it up or down. I’ve seen celebrities on the red carpet wear it with evening gowns as well as girls on the beach with denim shorts and a T-shirt. That’s why it’s so modern: it’s very efortless and works with almost any outft.’ The body of the shoe is made from an unlined cashmere suede that naturally takes on the shape of the foot. In fact, the Sexy Thing bootie was the frst design to utilise Aquazzura’s production technique, which is now patented. According to the company, this ‘second skin’ technology is unique to

Aquazzura and makes the shoes incredibly soft and comfortable, as if ‘you are wearing a glove on a high heel’. Comfort also comes from the sole of the shoe, the result of time invested by artisans who studied a myriad of techniques for construction

Above (from top): crafing the Sexy Thing shoe; the yellow heel, spring/summer 2014

92 | F E AT U R E S

‘You can wear it all year round and dress it up or down’ Edgardo Osorio

Above: Roccia Elaphane heel, cruise collection 2014

and ft. ‘The man who creates my lasts came up with a way of constructing the shoe so that the weight of the body is more evenly distributed around the ball of the foot, the arch and the back, as opposed to having all the weight of your body on the ball of your foot which makes it uncomfortable,’ says Osorio. This element of the Sexy Thing led to it being known as the ‘fashion week shoe’ and the ‘24-hour shoe’, as it became popular with fashion editors during the launch of international collections. ‘Sexy Thing is a seasonless and timeless shoe. My aesthetic refects the beauty and sophistication of a certain kind of Italian style that is never over designed or overdone. It’s about small, luxurious details that make something great, like everything else in life,’ Osorio concludes aquazzura.com

94 | E X P E R I E N C E

TABLE TALK From classic Italian kitchens to contemporary Chinese dumplings, Milan’s restaurants ofer a world of options for adventurous gourmands. Verity Hogan explores a selection of the city’s fnest

Milan’s gastronomy is often said to refect the city’s character; its restaurants ofer cosmopolitan menus flled with favoursome, hearty dishes that are relatively easy to prepare in this fast-paced environment. Diners looking for culinary diversity will be spoilt for choice as no other Italian city ofers such a high concentration of international restaurants, from Moroccan bars and Asian-fusion canteens to Irish gastro-pubs. The city’s restaurant scene is one of the most heavily populated in the world; the city boasts 400 bars and restaurants for every 100,000 inhabitants. As a result, the dining landscape is flled with culinary contrasts, and tradition and innovation often coexist. Heritage dishes with strong identities have been maintained and developed by the country’s leading experimental chefs while international favours have also been widely embraced. With striking décors and menus that combine exotic favours with an Italian sensibility, Milan’s fnest restaurants are also some of its most intriguing with an infux of young chefs helping to create one of Europe’s leading restaurant scenes. globalblue.com

S H O P | 95

BEnTo SuSHI R E S TAu R A n T The cosmopolitan interior of Bento Sushi Restaurant refects the modern way its menu embraces innovation while remaining true to Japanese tradition. The fnest ingredients combined with the chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s creativity result in dishes such as udon soup with lotus fowers, slow-cooked pork with mustard and pak choi, and tataki salmon with wasabi honey sauce. Dishes are complemented by an extensive wine list, ofering over 100 vintages from Italy and France, alongside a selection of Japaneseinspired cocktails. Bento Sushi Restaurant, Corso Garibaldi 104, 20121 Milan, +39 02 659 8075, bentosushi.it

96 | E X P E R I E N C E

Dim Sum Dim Sum ofers diners an authentic taste of Chinese cuisine in central milan. The menu features traditional dim sum, updated to suit current tastes, using high-quality fresh ingredients. its dining room is suitably refned, with a sleek and modern design free from Oriental kitsch while the open kitchen allows diners to watch the chefs at work. The menu is designed for sharing, featuring a range of fresh favours and light dishes. globalblue.com

There is a variety of options available on Dim Sum’s menu, from meat, fsh and vegetable plates to soups and small cakes, steamed or fried. Start your meal with a serving of fried shrimp rolls before choosing between main meal options that include beef with ginger and leek, salt and pepper fried squid, crispy duck and sautéed noodles – all accompanied by a glass of chilled Perrier Jouet Champagne. Dim Sum, Via Nino Bixio 29, 20129 milan, +39 02 2952 2821, dim-sum.it

PHOTO: Daniele cOPPa

98 | E X P E R I E N C E

Larte taking a concept store approach to fne dining, Larte not only showcases Italian cuisine but also highlights the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s art, design, culture and fashion. the restaurant is complemented by a cafĂŠ, chocolate shop, osteria and art gallery, all sharing the same historic space the former residence of writer and poet Carlo emilio Gadda. the recently opened restaurant serves Mediterranean cuisine, centred on globalblue.com

deceptively simple recipes that incorporate fresh fsh, vegetables and pasta. Chef Gennaro Immobile is one of Milanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new talents and is known for making the most of his ingredients. everything in the restaurant is for sale, including all of the furniture and works of art; designers Carlo Molino and Fortunato Depero are just two of those featured in the space. Larte, Via Manzoni 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8909 6950, opening.lartemilano.com

100 | E X P E R I E N C E

MaMai

PHOTO: francesca brambilla

Mamai specialises in homespun italian cuisine, with every dish striking the perfect balance between aesthetics and favour. as a whole, the menu is creative and contemporary, featuring dishes such as roasted octopus with mashed sweet potato and orange, and crispy sweetbreads glazed with veal stock, nuts and creamy Stilton. The wine list ofers over 100 options to complement the range of dishes.

The restaurant’s name translates to ‘mother’ in Gaelic and the atmosphere is suitably homely to refect its moniker. Enjoy the restaurant’s relaxed ambience and service levels which are never less than professionally perfect. Be sure to try one of the restaurant’s tasting menus; Water, Earth or Chef. Mamai, Via adige 9, 20135 Milan, +39 02 8721 3909, mamaimilano.it

globalblue.com

milano, corso venezia 2 tel 02 36510974 SHOP at m-missoni.com

102 | E X P E R I E N C E

Stay in Style The world’s fnest hotels have locations in the most sought-after city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa facilities ofering state-of-theart treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

GreAt FoSterS Probably built as a royal hunting lodge in 1550, Great Fosters continues to ofer an experience ft for a king in its beautifully preserved Grade I-listed property. The house is set in 50 acres of gardens and parkland, featuring an outdoor heated swimming pool, tennis court, walled garden and lake. Inside, each of the hotel’s 43 rooms has a diferent décor, from the historic globalblue.com

grandeur of the Panel II and Italian suites to the more modern luxury of the Coach House rooms. Be sure to dine in the elegant Tudor Room, which serves an exquisite tasting menu in a unique setting. Great Fosters, Stoude Road, Egham, Surrey TW20 9UR, +44 (0)1784 433822, greatfosters.co.uk

PHOTO: IngO PerTramer

E X P E R I E N C E | 103

Arthotel BlAue GAnS Located on Salzburg’s most prestigious street, minutes from Mozart’s birthplace, Blaue Gans’ modern minimalist interior provides a welcome contrast to its historic surroundings. The hotel prides itself on its art collection; more than 100 pieces of contemporary art can be found

displayed in the winding corridors and large, bright and airy rooms. Service is exemplary, attentive yet never stifing, while added extras including in-room massages add a touch of luxury to your stay. Arthotel Blaue Gans, Getreidegasse 41-43, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 842 4910, hotel-blaue-gans-salzburg.at

E X P E R I E N C E | 105

Renaissance BaRcelona Hotel The Renaissance Barcelona Hotel is renowned for ofering its guests an exceptional standard of service, as well as sleek, contemporary interior design. Each of its guestrooms features luxurious bedding, individual climate-control settings, high-speed Internet and modern globalblue.com

bathroom suites, while the ftness centre, open 24 hours a day, is an added perk. Be sure to dine at the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highly acclaimed steakhouse; Cru serves only the fnest Black Angus beef alongside a carefully selected range of premium wines. Renaissance Barcelona Hotel, Pau Claris 122, 08009 Barcelona, +34 93 272 3810, marriott.com

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

106 | E X P E R I E N C E

South Place hotel Ofering 80 Conran-designed rooms at the heart of the City of London, the South Place Hotel is one of the capitalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most stylish new openings. The hotel ofers an array of luxurious amenities, with a team of staf on hand to cater to your every need; enjoy a menu of gourmet seafood at Angler restaurant, try an original cocktail in one globalblue.com

of the three bars or relax in Le Chifre private lounge. Each room is also lavishly appointed and features a Bang & Olufsen television, St Clementâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bath products by James Heeley and cleverly designed ambient lighting. South Place Hotel, 3 South Place, London EC2M 2AF, +44 (0)20 3503 0000, southplacehotel.com

108 | G U I D E

Guide

photo: Jean-Christophe Benoist

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Milan with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the most peaceful parks to the fnest fashion boutiques. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/milan.

A GLIMPSE OF MILAN Set in the centre of Milan with streets radiating out from its position, the Duomo is one of the city’s most magnifcent sights. Its Gothic façade, in dazzling white, is decorated with an array of sculpted statues and spires, ranging from gargoyles on guard to a likeness of the Madonna. Above: Duomo di Milano

HANNELI MUSTAPARTA wearing the Colour Block Coat MA X ANDCO.COM

110 | G U I D E

SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOS: RuaiRidH PRiTcHaRd; Sally McilHOne; VeRiTy HOgan

‘Milan’s status as a centre of commerce, fashion and culture gives the city a cosmopolitan feel and distinctive energy’ Verity Hogan, SHOP’s city guide and lifestyle editor

globalblue.com

S H O P | 111

Follow our teamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s travels on Instagram @globalblue. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

112 | G U I D E

Milan Piazza San Marco

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO

P VIA

ACC ONT

FO RO

V IA F

IO R I

CHIA

BU ON AR AP

PINACOTECA DI BRERA

VIA B

CASTELLO SFORZESCO

RER

Piazza Castello V I A D EL

PIA

Z Z A C A T EL LO S VI

V IA

CAIROLI

IO AZ M I TA

TA M AS

A Metro

VI RI

Tourist Information

Piazza Santa Maria Beltrade

LC A

BIBLIOTECA AMBROSIANA VI A SP AD AR Piazza Pio XI I

VIA MENGONI

'O NT

Piazza Cordusio

N EG R

ANO GAET

V IA

O LU INI

ONE

V IA B R IS

V IA N IR

VIA BE RN AR DIN

Piazza Aﬀari

132

OV AN AN

VI A M

134

ER AV IG LI

Piazza Scala

VIA S. PELLICO

RRONE V IA P O DANTE CORDUSIO

page

PALAZZO DELLA BORSA

VIA

Place Of Interest

PICCOLO TEATRO

page

TEATRO ALLA SCALA

LET

CO RS O MA GE NT A

TO M A S O

BRO

TEATRO LITTA

GI U

VIA

N LI

SAN

VIA

N A PA R T E

EL L

O BUO

ROV

FOR

L’ O R S O

Piazza Del Duomo DUOMO

S H O P | 113

VIA F V IA D

AT E B

E L L’

ENE

ANN

FR A TELL

UNC

Piazza Cavour

V I A PA L E S T R

VI AP VILLA BELGIOIOSO & AL GALLERIA D'ARTE MODERNA ES

IATA

MUSEO CIVICO DI STORIA NATURALE TR O page 136

EZ EN OV RS CO

A ZI VE

OD IM

RV A

TI D

CE VI

I SC

VIA

I RIN

DU VIA

NE U

B E RT

ELE

CONSERVATORIO GIUSEPPE VERDI

VIA BORG OGNA

globalblue.com

Piazza San Carlo

OR VAT

PALAZZO REALE

SER

V IA PAT TA

MUSEO DEL NOVECENTO

SAN BABILA Piazza San Babila TEATRO NUOVO

page

CO N

VIT

O N FO R

VIA

DUOMO

E RIO

SS PE OS RG BO A

’O R ALL

R CO

120

114

CO R S O M

page

EO TT I

TRO

PIE

PA O

IAN

CHIESA DI SAN BABILA

CO RS O MATT

T AR OZ VILLA NECCHI CAMPIGLIO

SA N

VIA

M VIA

S. D

VIA

Piazza Meda TTE OT TI RSO MA CO

M A VI

NI ZO AN M A VI

VIA

N T ’A

124

ON VIA

PRI

ETT

OR PALAZZO MARINO

SCH

V I A BO

page

PALAZZO MORANDO

MUSEO POLDI PEZZOLI 126

RIN

S VI A

MUSEO BAGATTI VALSECCHI

SÚ

TO NA

MONTENAPOLEONE

O NT

VIA

130

128

page

Piazza Croce Rossa

PALESTRO

114 | G U I D E

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II Area Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II & Via San Pietro all’Orto Piazza Scala

TRUSSARDI ●

VI AC RI

B RO

VIA

Piazza Scala

LET TO

IT A

ER GH

H CT

Piazza Del Duomo

Ristorante Cracco

A A

VIA SA N

Piazza Pio XI

VIA MAZZINI

● MONDADORI ANDRE’ ● MAURICE ● BENETTON

VI R TA

DUOMO

TA M A

NT A

SA A

VIA GAETANO GIARDINO

PHOTO: PROvINce OF MIlaN TOuRISM SecTOR/vISITaMIlaNO.IT

TOP TIP While the city views afforded from the roof of the Duomo are some of the finest in Milan, the best view of the Duomo itself is reserved for those visiting the rooftop cafés of La Rinascente department store. Seats on the terrace are set almost within reach of the cathedral spires, while the cocktails available are sure to impress. If the weather doesn’t allow for al fresco dining then be sure to pay a visit to Obika Mozzarella bar, which offers the same impressive views, albeit undercover, as well as a menu of classic Italian cuisine, fine Mozzarella cheese and a selection of local wines.

Global Blue Retailer Restaurant

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Places Of Interest

Metro

VIA UGO FOSCOLO

AUTOGRILL ●

CURRADO ● GRIMOLDI ● RUGGERI ●

Piazza Del Duomo

DUOMO

VIA S. PELLICO

SARTORIA ROSSI ● CIELO 1914 ● ARCHENTI ●

Piazza Mercanti

● MASSIMO DUTTI IO VI

● LIBRERIA BOCCA

GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II

VIA MENGONI

● VIGANÓ

I TA ER GH AR

TA M AN

AS OT

VIA

● PRADA ● OXUS

GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II

V I A TO M M A S O G R O SS

FFA EL E

TOD’S ● SWAROVSKI ● VERSACE ● MERCEDES BENZ ● ISTITUTO POLIGRAFICO ● P.51 STEFANEL ● NARA CAMICIE ● CADÉ ●

VIA MENGONI

PRADA ●

ANDREW'S TIES ●

LUISA SPAGNOLI ● LEO PIZZO ●

● BORSALINO VI A ● CENTENARI AG NE ● MEJANA LL ● PIUMELLI O ● CHURCH’S V I A S ● NOLI .R A DE ● BRIC’S GO ● GUCCI ND ● GIORGIO ARMANI A DANTE CORDUSIO VUITTON ● LOUIS

VI A SA N RA

GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II

COMUNE DI MILANO URBAN CENTRE ● RIZZOLI ●

JIL SANDER ●

RV A CE A

● BAGUTTA

TT A

TE NA PO

TTI

TRO

COR SO MAT TEO

PIE

● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH ZEPTER ● INTERNATIONAL SAN

’O R ALL

VALLI ●

BABILA

● BROOKS BROTHERS

SAMSONITE ●

● PRONOVIAS

MAURO LEONE ●

Piazza San Carlo

Piazza San Babila

CONTIGO ● BOSE ● FOR PETS ONLY ●

RS CO

VIA SANTA TECLA

TOP STORES AROUND THE DUOMO Gobbi 1842 Historic family-owned jewellers Gobbi 1842 is known for stocking jewellery and timepieces by some of the world’s most prestigious international brands. The team of endlessly accommodating staff is on hand to guide you through pieces by brands such as Rolex and Patek Phillipe. Gobbi 1842, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 15, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7602 0536

Department Store

SAN

VERSACE COLLECTION ●

VIA SAN CLEMENTE

ORE

● ISAIA

BOGLIOLI ● MASCHIO ● EYE STYLE ● POMELLATO ●

P.117

VIA

V I A PAT TA

LL E DE

E II

UEL

TO R

M IO E

VIA BORG OGNA

VIA

VIT

● NARA CAMICIE ● LIBERO MILANO ● GUTTERIDGE

● SISLEY

Piazza San Carlo

CO RSO MAT TEO TTI

SAN BABILA Piazza San Babila

IA DE CR

TEZENIS ●

CELIO ●

DUOMO

● ALCOTT ● CARPISA ● FALCONERI ● INTIMISSIMI

FURLA ●

& OTHER STORIES ● JDC URBAN STORE ● NARA CAMICE ●

ROCCA ●

FFAE LE

La Rinascente

VIA SA N RA

SUPERDRY ● FOOTBALL TEAM ●

SO OR

● MONDADORI MULTICENTER P.52 MAX MARA ● ● VERGELIO MAX & CO ● Excelsior PENNYBLACK ● ● MOTIVI ● B HIP! IA I BLUES ● AR CC MARELLA ● BE VIA MARINA RINALDI ●

A ● BULGARI AG NE LL O

PA O

SAN

MARIUCCIA ●

CO RS O MATT EO TT I

GALLER

AT T

CLARKS ●

VIA DURINI

. V. S

T OT

● H&M MASSIMO DUTTI ● GEOX ● ● NADINE ● STROILI ORO ● OYSHO ● LUISA SPAGNOLI KIKO ● ● ILLY SWATCH ● ● MILAN MEGA STORE GOBBI 1842 ● ● MICHAEL KORS MARILENA ● ● PINKO SWAROVSKI ● ● DISNEY ● LIU JO ● THE HIGHLINE ZARA MEN ● ● FOOT LOCKER ZARA ● ● GAP TO ’O R ● BANANA REPUBLIC ALL CALZEDONIA ● TRO ● MANGO P IE PICA ● ● PULL & BEAR BENETTON ● ● SEPHORA IS ● BERSHKA IS TO FO R

Piazza Meda

VIA

S H O P | 115

Featured In This Issue

● SANDRO FERRONE ● MARCO ● PAM

& Other Stories & Other Stories’ distinctive collection is infused with effortless Scandinavian cool. & Other Stories, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 1, 20122 Milan, +39 02 8909 6303, stories.com Marella Max Mara’s diffusion line Marella echoes its parent label’s elegant aesthetic with versatile, contemporary pieces with universal appeal. Marella, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 2, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7601 2747, marella.com

G U I D E | 117

VAnnucci Multibrand boutique Vannucci plays host to a diverse clothing range that spans the wardrobe spectrum from tailored businesswear to ultra luxury sportswear. The store caters for men and women with a collection that includes prestigious international labels as well as local italian brands. Expect pieces by Kiton, Santoni, Jacob cohen, Barba and Truzzi to be among the range. Vannucci, galleria San Babila 4c, 20122 Milan, +39 02 784938, vannucci.it * for map go to page 120

Boglioli A family frm known for its commitment to italian tailoring traditions, Boglioli is one of the country’s fnest menswear manufacturers. The company’s collections exude masculine elegance while its exacting approach to production ensures that every item produced is unique. Wools and

globalblue.com

cashmere are used to great efect throughout the range, while Boglioli’s signature skills can be found in its lightweight suiting and meticulously neat cuts. Boglioli, Via San Pietro all’orto 17, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 4051, boglioli.it * for map go to page 115

120 | G U I D E

Piazza San Babila Area Piazza San Babila, Corso Matteotti, Via Bigli, Corso Venezia & Corso Europa

O SS

OS RG BO

VI A M ON TE NA PO ON E

N SA

T ’A

● GUESS ● EDDY MONETTI

VIA BORGOG NA

BRIAN & BARRY ● BUILDING SAN BABILA NORTH SAILS ● ● ADIDAS ORIGINALS ● JUVENTUS ● GALLO TRU TRUSSARDI ● STONE FLY ● ● LIBERO MILANO

Metro

O BERT NE U

D RO

MO NT

VIA

MA RZ IA

LE M

AR CO

● NATURINO ● MHWAY

Non-Global Blue Retailer

V IA

● SILVIA VA LE RIO

MHWAY ● ● HSL

● B&B ITALIA

V IS

RIN

BERETTA ●

L A RGO COR SIA DEI SERVI

● MARGHERITA

VIA

AR I VI A PATT

JH 1912 ●

DEL MARE ●

I DI

VIA

RV A

● NATUZZI ● CASSINA

P.48

BELLORA ●

AVIREX ●

BOGGI ●

Featured In This Issue

● SUITSU PPLY

San Babila

Piazza San Carlo VODAFONE ●

● DIMENSIONE DANZA

Global Blue Retailer

O N FO

● VIONN ET

CO R SO M

SAN BABILA

EDDY MONETTI ● SALMOIRAGHI VIGANÒ ● ● FLORSHEIM ● MORESCHI ● MOMO DESIGN ● BROSWAY ● NESPRESSO ● BOGGI ● MAZZOLARI ● BALDININI TREND ● BAGATT ● MILANO OFFICIAL STORE ● DIESEL Piazza P.117 ● VANNUCCI

● ESCADA ● JUST CAVALLI

’O R ALL

IA N

IITTAL A ● FLOS ●

BOSS STORE ● PIUMELLI ●

● TOMBOLINI

TRO

IO E

A TT

P IE

PA O

TO R

SAN

● UNIFOR ● RODO ● MORONI GOMMA

V IA

SAN

IT OV

MAZZOLARI ● E TIMBERLAND ● ON SPALLANZANI ● ALDO BRUÈ ● HARMONT & BLAINE ●

Sant'Ambroeus Bar

VIA

● ANGELO GALASSO ● FINART ● LO SCARABEO D’ORO

EO TT I

BOGGI ●

II ELE

VIA

ATOS LOMBARDINI ● BOTTARELLI CARTOLERIA ●

CO RS O MATT

PIKENZ ● SPAZIO FORNASETTI ● JECKERSON ● GRAVATI ● ALVIERO MARTINI ●

Piazza Meda

● ASPESI

A DODO ● VI FABBRICA PELLETTERIE MILANO●

● D MAGAZINE

ANTICHITÀ PIVA & C. ●

● TATRAS

VIA ANSELMO RONCHETTI

● NELLA LONGARI

SÙ

LA CARAMELLA ● D'ORO

VER R

TO NA

O NT

V I A P.

A ARIN

M PA GN M CUL A ● OS TI CA ● M O AR R IM ● NP SA PA V I L L NA V IA R E AE NDO REN AH ● RO M CO ● S U ● W ES VI OLE ZI ● T W VIE S ● L A LIV OO NNE M Y CA IAN D ● ST YL OT L Z I ● E TIC A ● L I M A B AG A ● ND D S AR INA ● IC O ● MA ● ● LL LI DO GH PA L U O N I LC TT D O CIA ● E& D IM VA N O GA OL E N● C B FL B E & ● E’DE PADOVA AV A N G IO A B AB ● STONE ISLAN D CA AR BA NE ● ADD ST BI NA RO EL ER ● G NER ● WOLFO RD LA E ● HE IAR O G NI ● WHO’S WHO NR DIN IA ● Y I J RD DO ● FRANC ESCO BIASIA CO U N I N LC T T IO I ● ● GAGÀ MILAN O E& ON R ● GA ● NAVIG ARE ’S BB ● AN ● NOMIN ATION CO A ● GR S● ● EMPRE SA IM BA OL ● ULTIM A EDIZIO NE GA DI BR ● CHRIS TOFLE AC P R T T ● CI A D ● A A P Z LIN ● ● ALBER TO GUARD IANI ER I ● ● PAOLO TONAL I O HO ZAR ● ● RED VALEN TINO M A ● LOVE MOSCH INO E● ● M MISSO NI RT E M VIA

Bar

Mil a n o | p i a z z a s a n B a bi l a, 1 / 3 - P h + 3 9 0 2 7 6 2 8 0 5 2 9

M i l an, F l o r e nce , r o M e | M a d e i n i ta ly | ww w. Mor es c h i . i t

122 | G U I D E

MILAN’S TOP CONCEPT STORES 1. Wait and See Every item stocked at the Wait and See lifestyle boutique has been selected by its fashion-forward owner, designer Uberta Zambeletti. Her signature style and varied cultural interests are reflected in the eclectic collection, which includes womenswear, jewellery, stationery and vintage pieces sourced from all over the world. Wait and See, Via Santa Marta 14, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7208 0195, waitandsee.it 2. Tearose The flowers are always in full bloom at Tearose; this vibrant fashion boutique stocks the finest international designer labels and a selection of couture items and displays them surrounded by intricate floral arrangements. Expect to discover pieces by Carven, Acne Jeans, Balmain, Alexander Wang and Roland Mouret standing out against the floral backdrop. Tearose, Via Manzoni 27, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8699 8767, tearose.it for map go to page 130

3. Gio Moretti Gio Moretti has become something of an institution among Milan’s most fashion-conscious residents. The boutique has a reputation for stocking the leading avant-garde international labels within its luxurious glass and marble interior. Brands represented in store include Chloé, Lanvin, Balmain and Phillip Lim but be sure to visit the store’s dedicated Ermanno Scervino floor, which contains the label’s full collection. Gio Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3186, giomoretti.com for map go to page 128

* 1.

globalblue.com

Coutur e & ACCe ssoi r es · J oA i l l er i e · H om e & A rt Co l l e C t i o n s Villa MEiSSEN COUTURE®, Via MONTENapOlEONE 3, MilaNO · www.MEiSSEN.iT · TEl: +39 02 89423725

124 | G U I D E

Montenapoleone Area

A DE

MARC CAIN ●

S V GIANVITO ROSSI ● O BALLIN ● NT A CHANTECLER ● S ● DANIELE ALESSANDRINI A STELLA V I ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE MCCARTNEY ● ● PAROSH ● VHERNIER VI A ● CORTO MOLTEDO B

VERSACE HOME ●

WALTER PADOVANI BALENCIAGA ● ● ANTIQUARIO MAURO GRIFONI ● ● DAAD DANTONE ● CARLO TIVIOLI ANTIQUARIATO BENSI ● O I T ● NEIL BARRETT SÙ GIOIELLI DI SANTO SPIRITO 13 ● I R ● DUVETICA GE GIORGIO JANEKE ●

SILVANO LATTANZI ●

● HORA ● SCHREIBER ● WALTER SHOES ● INBORGOSPESSO 18

MI.MI.SOL. ●

Via Sant’Andrea, Via Pietro Verri & Piazza Meda, Via Gesù, Via Borgospesso & Via Santo Spirito

YOUNG VERSACE ●

● GALLUCCI

VI BORGOSPESSO 11 ●

● GALLERIA SILVA ● TOP TIME MUSA

● BORGOSPESSO 6 ● SOLO BLU

SÙ

O SS

V IA

R IN

IG NO OV

E Z IA

TT A

COR SO MAT TEO

Piazza Meda

O TR

TTI

CO RS O MO

SAN BABILA

Piazza San Carlo

Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

MIMÌ ● HUSKY ● AL GINGILLO ● ACQUA DI PARMA ●

T ’A

VIA

E VY I UR NA UT ER UT I D RL CO LL IBE SAN INO VA E M ● ● CH A N TA JIL IS A TI IS ● OS IN AD M BAS TT LL ● A PR ● T VA SE MB EN U ● N CA A ● I UR GI IK A L AN ● L A IU M ZM T ER NE T ● M A IN EI ● R W CH IE ● SA TI V S ● RT TA VI RI OT I ● R R UA CI NE ● U NA GE VE ST NNE PA AG E ● RO GA GNO AB VI ● BA AR E A S NI ’S ● ● TT IA CE CH E R BO ● UR OM I ● DO NI CH I H ER ● ● SE SO LS A N E U T 19 1 1 ● IS OU M PE M E EL DI NO IH AR AR N ● ● I K R O N I E & M AL ES ● RL SA UE EO EF ● Q RS ER LI CA US L C TO LE M TR I BO ’O R UA O ● ALL P O AN C I ER SQ HO I ● TRO 4 ION P IE PA Y C D E N A ● V U CC A N D P.5 B R SAN O E A G V IA ● ID IMM AS EX ● NT ● C J AL GU O ● ER M RIA ● A GE SA ND INA SA RT D2 V I OLO E - PI MI ● ● IL A U I J M ARE OR IPP OF AN ● ● L A QU SA IL P R U CI N D ● RD 98 PI PH O S R D CR M O LI K FO 18 ● ● ET TE C H BIG S O OX R I O RI VIA PA S ● I● LA HN RE AN ● ● JO SP RI O NE MA GUF JO ● IL R EU ● AT M I ● OC TU RD OV LO PR FO O ● AO T NP M N SA EN TO EG I ● VIA AG LL AL N TO C A INI ● DI O N I CI LD FI BA NI Y● NT ● LA VE EL E T T ICO O O N ICO NT Y ● P U AV I B O L O C AZZ NI ● V R A ELL A ST CA

MUSEO BAGATTI VALSECCHI

MONTENAPOLEONE

TO NA

CAIATI FINE ARTS ● BARBA ● ORIENTAL ART RENZO FRESCHI ● ROSALBA ● DOUCAL'S ● KITON ● SILVANO LATTANZI ● BARRETT ● TINCATI ● SÙ DORIANI CASHMERE ● GE ZILLI ● IA

M A

Piazza Croce Rossa

VIA

I PI

E TÀ

DROGHERIA PARINI 1915 ●

Piazza San Babila

Metro

NF OR TE

RIM

H A C K ETT.C O M

126 | G U I D E

TO NA

I GE

SÙ

VI SA N DA

R IN

P.2

● V R 4 CH E ● O P.5 AT I N ● AN W E L S C O A ●● RI Y C A G U RK M TO O F M E B LU N ● A R ● IE SH L O A GA A ● A RT & GE SC O R Z RE I● CA UL AN TO H FO ND AT I N ●● ● PA O R S ’A 6 L I NT ● DI ÈS A P.5 I M O C E L P L EI E R L ● S ● S C P L L E● A RY RM VI AS BU IP IEL OE W I ● HE R ER M ● DIO RB RG CE SA IO HIL IO I KR OE ON T ● ● B U E B E PA O I A R P S I G E V L S T E N T ●● N M ● IC D S EL I IG TE D UE I ● CU D A . P E N E G FA BI N I ● ● KI BA AN ES R ID ● AL MI I N DA DE B N T T LUE A D A ● ● A IN I D L G O B SI ● ● 8 IA BA va OM AN D PE CE I ● AL P.5 C o A WP E Z A N IT A S SA IN N ● D P ED I R EN LI ● L A E E R A L V V UE G A PR US LI N I ● G ME ● G I D E Y I N C AV IO 70 NI ● BE O ● FE LL AD O SH IA I P.1 FA U E T M U CC O ● ● BA BB RT R RY S N E S R ● ● SA B P E I N ’ IG RU G E T CIE ● HE I ● RO M ON M E S P EN I LA I RR M E TA I ● ● CA NT A AR UR VE AN CA EN SS N ● ● SA AD M L A O M R A A ● PR DE H R A V LL SE DI ● ET I AR ON A P ● AU L P N EG T E EIS EN O ● ● O T I IA 8 ● R A RG IT TT AN M F AM LA ● P.5 ● O VU G R R BO R M ILL A GI IS I RA PE LE I ● ● TO V OU ER L A NC ER A Z Z A AR U L F G ● S O I L E ● M A N AV L A ● BU P R L E OR Piazza E E ● ● AT MAT T EOT TI I N TA B T R I Meda CO RS O LV IC E T NA UL Z AN TI ● A F N N O S O F M O Y A EC D ER SE T SI B R- L P E OS SAN IR GE E LL Piazza JA TE A San Babila FR

I UB

V IA

A RT BE A L LO ● MA ●

R FE

MONTENAPOLEONE

R PI

Piazza Croce Rossa

EG IL DO V M Z E SE LO O N T VI EG RT U EM RG RO BL ERR NA ● IL IO R PIA AN E ● ● IO O N C ● VI PU SS A ● ● ● C AM CC I ● ● P OR AN I● R O G E I N K N E ZO N I ● L O O LI AN ● P E X ● GI ISA X B I GR US O OU IF EP RO TIQ ● FE P LO U SA E G E ● LV V I A ZA E VA AT B O NO RIA LE O RGO TT RE NT SP ID ES IN FE ES O R R SO IG AG N AM O

Via Montenapoleone

SP IG

E Z IA

V IA

SA N

CO RS O MO

NF OR TE

TRO

VIA

P IE

BABILA

’O R ALL

Piazza San Carlo

Fratelli rossetti

Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

PHOTO: IsaBella De MaDDaleNa

When searching for the perfect pair of shoes, Fratelli rossetti’s Via Montenapoleone store provides an ideal ft. the store showcases the brand’s high-quality and expert craftsmanship, ofering styles that are classic with a contemporary edge. those looking for something unique should take advantage of the store’s tailoring service; visitors can have a pair of shoes made to measure to their exact requirements by one master craftsman. Fratelli Rossetti, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1650, fratellirossetti.com

Metro

Café

128 | G U I D E

Spiga & Via Manzoni Area Via della Spiga

ANN

ELLI

R AT

UNC

E L L’

N EF

V IA D

AT E B E

V I A PA L E S T R

V IA F

Piazza Cavour

VIA DEI GIA R DINI

EL VE AS CC IN N HI O SO ISA LER PO R E A L AL LIT K O B EC C PA O N N T Y NI C CO O ● M T E E ISA A R N R ● P I R OB R A LA A ● M CC ● E M I E G IN ● ● RO LU IN AR QU RO ● NI L B AR ● M M S RE ’O OS ● AR IR M UG BLU IN RTIN E BL O D B L B O O ● LI L ● BL S EL PA A V I E L BYL O M D R E ●● ● M I S C O N M TA T I C A T ST S O CO Q U R E T L A R ● E OT PI A E ● O I N S C L B P I P F IC KE E ● ● M A M O TO ILI N HI IN O ● SER BER A F DE H - OL IN 6 C ● RO IAN O TC RU L L P.5 N I H ● FA B AT PA IG S O N ES O ● R NC IA D ● I PI AP HE RNO N I R LL ● SE RSC OU HIO NE ● ● P O N J FA S A CI N A R IN U I NO L MA ● A GA R C Piazza A V IA ● NV NA ● M E U F L LO N G I LA I Croce E ● NIL NE AV PL I● Rossa P ● BRU 30 IA P E UT O IP NA IT SS IL ● Nº UD RIN BA E IR H O A A MONTENAPOLEONE P T P ● CL M IN AB I S N ● O H O . ● BLU SC & G 0 DI R IM NT CO NP P.5 G A N SA ● M O LCE SA & X A F● V IA VI ● DO ’ S MA N Y TA F ● D A T ● TO R VE ● LS FF TI ● SPO B E E N EI L L E O ● A SÙ G N ● ● R D MI L A AD S GE E Y A R L RD OR UNI PR M VI FA I ● VI ● U L C H A8 3 PA L K R A I M N BI HO AE LE B K R L 18 LI ● C GL L C H A IU ● I IC 22 PO AN DA M M SQU EY P A P.1 U FR I ● LT M ER M PA ● VO UT CHA T TI A ● ● I I E R NA P AV G A ● NG ORE ● BA SC SPI LS LO M AB E Ò G ● ● A W A GI LL JE RE ER I ● E& ● ND DE IS LC CL LL I ● ’A A IC DO ON INE DIN NT VI S A M ● ● C R S A BO CU R A ER ● VI M IG OE DI LO H E LO GE SH LLI ● EL G CO T N R AR IE IGA ● U KU C GIO SP TO I ● BR I A EN R ● T T LL IM NE IA ● SA D E CH CO O M N O L R BU IA FA C H E R V

IATA

V IA

TTI

CHE

BOS

DEI

VIA SA

IAN

EN E

ZIA

TE ON E

Piazza Meda

CO RS O MAT TEO TTI

TT EO TT I CO RS O MA VIA SAN

SAN BABILA

P IE

Piazza San Babila

’OR ALL

TRO

VIA

Global Blue Retailer

Piazza San Carlo

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

Featured In This Issue

130 | G U I D E

ANN

UNC

ELLI

IATA

IKK

VI A D EI GI A R DINI

NIN MA LE DA VIA

Piazza Cavour

● SC AV

R AT

DIR

DES ● V ISIG N G A L IO N N L E R Y A IR E

NEF

N IE

E T IQ U

I ENT

A DY RT L

IO A ● CA V

AT E B E

E L L’

BOU

AST

V IA D

RRE

ATA &M ● PR

VIA F IATA

● SM A

UNC

ELLI

VIA

MAR

ANN

R AT

DA M

RAL

CO D ● DA E MA Q UA RCH I

CO RS O DI

E L L’

N EF

V IA D

AT E B E

O TU R AT

VIA F

VI A FI LIP P

PO RTA NU

OVA

Via Manzoni & Via Fatebenefratelli

● FOTO OTTICA CAVOUR

S●

U ● S MO ● CI M AN BE AHR HR ● FO NZ LL IL AI ● ● FA G L I A R A O AN PR RS IE O ● R E A E T D I CC NA GRA A ● ● T T TI TÉ A CE R BO DO IL ON AR ● L U I TA ● U T N I 1 TE HE VIT DE TE GL LI ● ● 90 TT TO A N ● DE L C GA AS 2 AB ● SE M A R ● I GR RE A ● EL ILL ● D E V E AT S H IM IS TZ UL M DE W NT TIA ME ● AB A O RE I ● D M A Y E T A N RY L L D I ● ● S M A AT N ● TA TA IN ● M AI M O G A T I A AR FR PPE G ● EL R NE ZI ● MA N AN T M GA TIN T T E NI IS CH I ● MA G A S G N S OE L L IA I● NZ PR LL RA ● ON IM ● ER NT ● H I3 US P.1 1● ● E - AC K S A I A M 22 ● 7 F GÒ ET HR M ON AI A T ● PA O R N Piazza T TE ● TW TR A ZO P.5 AR EN PA I N I Z L L Croce NI 0 OS A P UL SE IA MA ● Rossa E ● OL ● GA SM T PEP NK EO 24 N E P I I N T E T W PI D H NE ● LL M ● AL AC M ● PE IC AN TE M AR ENZ O R PE ARI ● PA L L I C E Z O IT VO N NI A L Z NI IN C IR N A CA EL U I NT IL SP ● SH K EN L A SI ● O LA AR ER T M ● Z N M Z LE CR EL I ● F IR SA S A V I E R O ●● LI A ● J O R E YE L L C V L E VI CO C R O P AT L A ● CO M W A SÙ AI TE ● AL IL DE U M ● C L GE C CI O L N OR I NS ● PT A ● S E TI BR L VI OI I B AN ● ● W OA N D N E L N E A I R LU ● U LE ● T L R DE BO SA P ER ● ● G IE- FO O S NP DE L A SA ● C AL UP R CO VI OI LL ● W ● M I P C OL O S D TO A I● AY N W D BI ● M T● NN A GL ● FA A N A L I PA & IE I N R B N ● M RS EP IO EN Y M O ● F R ● ● GE OR OR ING ES BO RE ON DA ● A L S S TA T E H I VI LA TT I ● ● A E I RO R R A DE FF E ● M TT ● B RT SS I● CE I I ● M I I J O UE M I NC VE RC X ID I● RO O DE E C ● N E AT PA P ● M O S I TA R I ● M UA N L D I S L A S ZO I P LA TO N E F RT EL C I O Z Z TR AL TT O E● IN Z A IC L I VA EL T A M LE LI UR US E XT EU RA M ●

LIT

TO NA

E AT

DE A

UT TA

A TE

VIA

PO LE

NA ON

SA N

V IA

P IE

TRO

Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

CO RS O MAT TEO TTI

Place Of Interest

Global Blue Retailer

Piazza Meda

’O R ALL

Piazza Scala

COR SO MAT TEO TTI

Metro

’A

M il ano Vi a Manzo ni , 20 T. + 39 0 2 763 9 468 0 - V iS i T PalzilER i. C o M

● PETALI

● HILDEGARD ● ESIBIUSI ● EYETEC OTTICA ● CAMICERIA TIZIANO ● MELLUSO STORE ● WOOL CASHMERE

V I A B R I SA

VIA

VIA BO R RO M

VIA BRI SA

● CAMICISSIMA ● JOHN ASHFIELD ● GIOIELLERIA FALLIVA PANIZZI ● SUZUKI ● GREAT MASTERS OF TIME ● PELLINI ● M. BARDELLI I BERN ARD INO LUIN ● RANCÉ ● GUANTI ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI

PHOTO: MATTEO GIROLA

ILARIA FOLLI ●

VIA PORLE Z Z A OV AN

VIA P UR

CERATINA 1919 ●

ORLEZ Z A

PER

MARIA GRAZIA MANESCALCHI ●

RED

VIA

ICO

ÉC

GIO

V IA

SERVETTO ●

PIUMINI DANESI ●

PERLITA ● CASA DEL BIANCO ● MARIONNAUD ● BOTTA GIOIELLI ● BOGGI ● FLAMANT ● OFFICINALI DI MONTAUTO ● MATIAS OUTLET ● PERFUME BY CALE' ● LA PICCOLA GIOIELLERIA ● M.C.M. SANTA MARIA NOVELLA ● ERA L'ORA ●

VI A NI RO

BANG & OLUFSEN ● CRIPTONIT ● ● HOUSE OF CASHMERE DOTTI ● ● CURIOSITÀ ESOTERICHE CALAMAI ● ● EE ERCOLESSI ● BUSCEMI ● CHICCHE DI CALZE ● L’ETICHETTA

Place Of Interest

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Retailer

ANTIQUARIATO PALAZZO LITTA ●

● ALDO GUGLIELMINOTTI ● BOTTEGA ARTIGIANA TIFERNATE ● MY SELF CASHMERE ● MORTAROTTI ● EF ARTE ● L’ERBOLARIO ● FIGUS ● MODO MILANO

A VI

VIA TIVOLI ● OTTICA MAGENTA ●

METROPOLITAN ●

GIOIELLI ORO ARGENTO ●

Combining 1950s style with Hollywood glamour, Gum Salon ofers men a luxurious take on the barbershop experience. The team spends time getting to know every client, tailoring a style to suit using the salon’s own range of organic hair products. Styles are designed for modern men but often have a retro, rockabilly edge. The salon itself makes a strong style statement; black tiles, painted brick and dressing room bulb lighting give the space a unique character. Gum Salon, Via Vetere 10, 20123 milan, +39 02 3660 1940, gumsalon.it

IN OR

LC FU IA

M NT A SA

IG LI VI A M ER AV

TA CO RS O M AG EN

IN I CC

TE A PA R

FO RO B UON

G T 'A N SA

TEATRO LITTA

AG EN TA

CO R SO M

VIA

GIA

VIA

132 | G U I D E

Dante & Magenta Area Corso Magenta

Gum Salon

134 | G U I D E

Via Dante & Via Torino NI

VI A BR OL

VI A CU SA

I TO

US PE

VIA

CAIROLI

ET TO

VIA

VIA DEL LAURO

VIA

● DU PAREIL...AU MÊME ● JACADI ● NADINE GOLDEN POINT ● ● DANTE 16 SOLARIS ● ● YAMAMAY LE COQ SPORTIF ● ● GRISSPORT SWAROVSKI ● ● CELIO A SO ● SEPHORA AEROSOLES ● TO M SA N ● L’OCCITANE VIA FOOT LOCKER ● ● PETIT BATEAU ● GUTTERIDGE LO BY LOVABLE ● ● CAMICISSIMA OVS ● ● UNO DE 50 ● LACOSTE ● BATA ● CHICCO I PIQUADRO ● ● GEOX N I L U ● KIEHL'S I ALDO ● AG RO

IB VIA DE

OSS

TA R

AC LE RI CI

BRO LET

TO N

OT AS

● WIND

V IA D

ELL A

A POST

● BATA

● ALDO CITTERIO DEL MARE 1911 ● ● 3 STORE AD PERLIER ● AR ● GIOIELLERIA FEDELI I FOOTBALL CENTRE ● ● PELLETTERIA RICCARDI SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ● ● VODAFONE ● OROLOGERIA AL DUOMO ● SAVINELLI DESIRÈE PROFUMERIA ● ● LE SCARPE DI PAOLO ● BLU SAND MAX MARA ●

● L'ERBOLARIO

VIA BOR R O

NT A

VIA MENGONI

Piazza Cordusio

GRI

LA CITTA' DEL SOLE ● VI

VIA S.PELLICO

TA M

V IA G

NE TA N O

I TA

VI VI

V I A PORLEZ ZA

GUESS ● ● ELENA MIRÒ ● CANETTA MAX & CO ● ● GUESS ANGELICO ● ● PAOLO CLERICI DAL 1780 RR ON E ● MUSTO G STAR RAW ● VI A PO ● MADINA ● IMPERIAL OTTICA VIGEVANO ● ● KIKO D’AUGUSTA GIOIELLI ● ● STUDIO LA PERLA ● CARPISA ● TRIUMPH ● TIM CLASS ● CARLO PAZOLINI ● DANTE CORDUSIO IMAGINARIUM ●

VIG LI V IA ME RA

VIA

VIA PO

R L E ZZ A

ME I

ZARA ●

Piazza Pio XI

DUOMO

● LUIGI VERGA OYSHO ● ● INTIMISSIMI ● MARILENA ● CALZEDONIA ● NARA CAMICIE ● CAMPER

OVS INDUSTRY ● VI A

R TA TA M A

AR M

O IN ER AN

ION

MISSORI

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

● RONCHI

M ED AA

Global Blue Retailer

N L' U

VIA MAZZINI

DEL

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ● ● VERGELIO CIP GIOIELLI ● ● CARPISA ● KIKO PULL & BEAR ● ● KEY BE OLTRE ● ● PIMKIE KIEHL'S ● O ● ACCESSORIZE GUESS ● N R I ● YAMAMAY TEZENIS ● TO ● MARCO TALLY WEIJL ● A ● OTTICA BARELLO VI DIXTIE ● ● GIOIELLERIA FUGAZZI P.52 ● TRONY

VIA

BERSHKA ● MM ● BIBA ● BOTTEGA VERDE ● ● GEOX SWEET WAY ● Piazza S.Maria ● FOOT LOCKER MAC ● Beltrade BOUTIQUE DEL GIOIELLO ● ● ENERGIE / MISS SIXTY TRE ESSE SPORT ● ● MANGO ● MCS

V I A SA N

'O R

VI A

Featured In This Issue

136 | G U I D E

Corso Buenos Aires Area RE

● CLARKS BRACCIALINI ● ● LIU JO PANDORA ● DESIGUAL ● ● DIECIDECIMI V I AG STROILI ORO ● IO ● FURLA VA NN IO SWAROVSKI ● M

AT I

AN SS

● SHADAO ● ANTONY MORATO

CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●

L’OCCITANE ●

IC OV OD AL

A TA L

VI AL

OT AD

Corso Buenos Aires

STEFANEL ●

DOUGLAS ● PERSONA ● ALTIERI ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

● MERREL

● F.LLI SOLENNE GIOIELLI

ER EG

VA N

A DA

MOS

● MILANO HOUSE OF CASHMERE

● HILFIGER DENIM

IS E C

● AERONAUTICA MILITARE

IA A LV

FOSSIL● IANA ● SOLARIS ● KIKO ●

ST AL

Piazza Santa

V VERGELIO ● Francesca Romana SISTE’S ● GAMESTOP ● ● PIQUADRO CAMPER ● ● GUESS KIDS STRADIVARIUS ● ● GUESS FBL●

OT AD

RT AV

VIA P

CA MA S

GNI P

IE TRO

A ZI

BRO

L ZO

LAM

E S IR

V IA

EP P

TO R

FRIS

V IA

G IU S

MILAN’S MOST PEACEFUL PARKS 1. Parco Sempione One of Milan’s largest parks, Parco Sempione was designed to make the most of its views of Castello Sforzesco and the Arco della Pace. Visitors can admire both while also exploring the collection of permanent sculptures by Francesco Barzaghi, Giorgio de Chirico and Arman that line the parks many winding pathways.

3. Giardini di Villa Reale The English-style garden surrounding the Villa Reale has been designed with children in mind. The garden features lush green lawns, cherry trees and a lake with waterfall as well as an extensive children’s playground, fully equipped with swings and slides. 1

2. Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli Established in 1784, the Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli is the city’s oldest municipal park. The park follows French formal styling with geometric flowerbeds and tree-lined corridors while a statue of its namesake Indro Montanelli marks the ideal spot for quiet contemplation.

Global Blue Retailer

V IA

VIA

AO LO

L MA

Piazza Guglielmo Oberdan

PORTA VENEZIA

PIG

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

138 | G U I D E

Further aFieldâ&#x20AC;Ś Lake Como located just an hour away from Milan, lake Como is one of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most luxurious destinations. Snow-capped mountains surround the lake while the shoreline is dotted with picturesque Mediterranean villas and enchanting villages. the environment is inherently romantic and its spectacular beauty has inspired legions of poets, novelists and composers over the centuries. the region provides the perfect escape from modern life and the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s loveliest villages, Bellagio, Varenna and Menaggio, are located in Centro lago. Bellagio is characterised by charming earth-toned buildings and cobbled streets that weave through cypress groves and pretty gardens while visitors to the nearby Villa Melzi will be rewarded with acres of manicured lawns and ornate water features. the majority of the attractions of Varenna can be found on its outskirts; be sure to climb up to the hilltop ruins of Castello di Vezio which ofers panoramic views across the lake.

how to get there By Train From Milan Centrale station, trains to Como S giovanni station leave approximately every hour. the journey takes approximately one hour.

By Car Follow signs to the a9 motorway, connecting Milan to Switzerland, towards Como-Chiasso. take the lago di Como exit, the last before the Swiss border.

globalblue.com

140 | G U I D E

Fidenza Village Fidenza Village,

Via San Michele Campagna, 43036 Fidenza, +39 0524 33551, fdenzavillage.com Opening times

Monday-Sunday: 10am-8pm

How to get tHere By Car exit the a1 motorway at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore. Pass the tollbooth and Fidenza Village is 100 metres to your left.

Don’t MISS …

PerFeCt Day

Shopping & Food experience:

10am

this exclusive package includes: • a guided tour of Caseifcio Bertinelli in the heart of Parmigiano reggiano • return tickets from central Milan to Fidenza Village by Shopping express • a VIP card providing an additional 10% saving across the village

By Train From Milan: Fidenza station is on the direct line into Milano Centrale with frequent services and a journey time of approximately one hour 20 minutes. Upon arrival, take the shuttle bus to Fidenza Village; tickets can be purchased on board. By Shuttle Bus the Shopping express luxury coach service runs from central Milan to Fidenza Village daily.

globalblue.com

Start the day by perusing the home accessories at Calef, known for its use of premium fabrics such as Jacquard satin.

12pm the footwear at Sutor Mantellassi is sure to impress. expect elegant designs crafted by a team of master cobblers using traditional skills.

2pm Shopping & Art experience: this exclusive package includes: • entrance to the galleria nazionale di Parma with its collection of Italian renaissance masterpieces • return tickets from central Milan to Fidenza Village by Shopping express • a VIP card providing an additional 10% saving across the village

Stop for a break at authentic Italian cofee shop Ca’puccino. the café ofers a comfortable environment and a menu that tours the diverse regions and traditions of Italian cuisine.

4pm end your day admiring the innovative collections at Massimo Rebecchi. this luxurious label is known for combining sleek Italian tailoring with wearable comfort.

MILANO, Piazza Duomo 19 - contacts: +39 02 87 40 10 - info@cielo.it

142

When you shop the world, shop tax free Milan Linate Airport Gates

Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

Gates

Milan Malpensa Airport

1. Shop

Check in Area 2nd Floor

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form.

To Gates

Area B Extra Schengen 1st Floor

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your Tax Free Forms stamped before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces. Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €154.94 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some refund points an additional fxed fee per Tax Free Form is charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

154 / 169

162

Area A Schengen 1st Floor

Key Partner Refund Ofce

Global Blue Refund Ofce

Landside

Tax Free Mailbox

Check-In Area

Airside

Security Control

Stairs

Refund Ofces: Malpensa Airport: Terminal 1, Departures Check-In, second floor Terminal 1, Area B Extra Schengen, frst floor Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Linate Airport: Forexchange Maccorp, Departures Downtown Milan: La Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer service desk), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan

The world’s greatest designer boutiques. All in one place. With up to 70% off * and tax-free shopping. BALDININI

BIKKEMBERGS

TRUSSARDI JEANS

BROOKS BROTHERS

POLLINI

FURLA

ARMANI

SWAROVSKI

PINKO

MISSONI

AND MANY MORE

Receive 10% off your Shopping Express® return ticket from Milan by booking online with the code: GBFV2014

LIKE SHOPPING. BUT BETTER.

EUROPE LONDON DUBLIN PARIS MADRID BARCELONA MILAN BRUSSELS FRANKFURT MUNICH CHINA SUZHOU SHANGHAI OPENING AUTUMN 2015

Photographed in La Roca Village. A member of the Chic Outlet Shopping ® Collection of Villages © Value Retail PLC 2014 07/14 *the recommended retail price

144

PHOTO: Linda nyLind/cOurTesy Of frieze

Translations

Русский ПеРевод 66: Creative Edge

искусство в моде

Хэриет Квик анализирует, как крупные течения в искусстве влияют на творчество миланских дизайнеров В прошлом сезоне дизайнеры активно разрабатывали растительную тему, используя в коллекциях дикие цветы, лепестки и прочие ботанические мотивы. В сезоне осень/зима их внимание привлек более загадочный мир современного искусства, а особенно – арт-движения Баухаус и Флуксус, динамичные инсталляции и перформансы. На протяжении всей своей истории мода стремится взаимодействовать с искусством. На современном этапе эти плодотворные отношения находят свое выражение в выдающихся совместных проектах и поддержке фестивалей современного искусства. В частности, этот осенний сезон открывается двумя заметными событиями в этой сфере – Frieze London и Fiac в Париже. Кроме того, искусство оказывается globalblue.com

существенное влияние на крой, силуэт, сложность конструкции одежды, а также на режиссуру модных показов. Работая над новыми коллекциями для мужчин и женщин, Миучча Прада (она, кстати, курирует фонд поддержки искусства Prada) изучала архивы арт-движения 1970-х Флуксус. В нем участвовали радикально настроенные художники, кинематографисты и музыканты из разных стран, которые ценили спонтанность, юмор и партизанские интервенции в официальные формы искусства. Они считали, что любой материал, от газеты до сломанной посуды, может стать предметом и материалом искусства. Вся сцена шоу-показа Prada в Милане была затянута в серый промышленный войлок: этот прием использовал художник Флуксуса Йозеф Бойс, покрывавший войлоком и кожей объекты, целые комнаты и даже себя самого. Модели появлялись из темноты, как бы выходя из секретного убежища андеграундного искусства, причем беззвучно, поскольку войлок приглушал звук их каблуков. В самой коллекции проявился практически антимодный стиль: неожиданные цветовые сочетания (коричневый, желтый и черный),

STUARTWEITZMAN.COM

VIA SANT’ANDREA 10/A

20121 MILAN

+39 02 36537260

147

шейные ленты, галстуки и меховая отделка буквально приковала внимание зрителей. Самые запоминающиеся модные показы сезона осень/зима недвусмысленно походили на художественные хэппенинги. Характерный пример – презентация коллекции Agnona, в которой приняла участие Дри Хемингуэй, талантливая и красивая правнучка писателя Эрнеста Хемингуэя. Для декораций к шоу был избран стиль ар-деко, отсюда – обилие кожи, овчины, перьев, меховых цветов и драпировки. А чувственностью и особым ощущением новую коллекцию бренда Agnona, принадлежащего модному дому Ermenegildo Zegna, наполнил его креативный директор Стефано Пилати. В пальто-коконе с неровными полосами, кожаных вечерних перчатках и широких брюках, Хемингуэй предстала в образе истинной покровительницы изысканного искусства. Примечательно, кстати, что подобные волны, как в аппликации на пальто, были излюбленной метафорой художников Флуксуса и обозначали наметившиеся перемены. Особое внимание к тканям и конструированию различных форм привело многих дизайнеров к переосмыслению наследия движения Баухаус. Эта школа была основана архитектором Вальтером Гропиусом в 1919 году как междисциплинарный институт искусств и ремесел. Впечатляющая архитектура, мебель и графика, принципиально свободная от орнаментальности, захватывает воображение модных дизайнеров до сих пор. И Пилати, и Консуэло Кастильони из Marni в этом сезоне обратились к ярким графичным сочетаниям, инновационным тканям и сложным техникам кроя. Томас Майер из Bottega Veneta страстно увлекается искусством и фотографией. Неотразимую коллекцию этого сезона он сам называет «паззлом»: облегающие платья с расширяющимся подолом и нарядырубашки как бы собраны из отрезков ткани геометрических форм. Тем самым, они претендуют на эталонное мастерство кроя. А вечерние наряды с обильной тюлевой globalblue.com

и шифоновой драпировкой издалека смотрелись как изысканные графические рисунки с использованием градиента. Томас Майер из Bottega Veneta страстно увлекается искусством и фотографией. Неотразимую коллекцию этого сезона он сам называет «паззлом»: облегающие платья с расширяющимся подолом и нарядырубашки как бы собраны из отрезков ткани геометрических форм. Тем самым, они претендуют на эталонное мастерство кроя. А вечерние наряды с обильной тюлевой и шифоновой драпировкой издалека смотрелись как изысканные графические рисунки с использованием градиента. prada.com, agnona.com, bottegaveneta.com 76: The Magic Of Milan

Магия Милана

Бет Дрюс рассказывает о необычных заведениях Милана, среди которых есть и известные только миланцам ателье, и старинные магазины и кафе

148

Сюжет фильма Луки Гуаданьино «Я – это любовь» вращается вокруг авторитетной миланской семьи, живущей в Villa Necchi Campiglio. Этот особняк с большой историей укрыт от посторонних глаз в нескольких шагах от шумного и многолюдного duomo. В Милане так легко увлечься великолепными соборами и джелатериями, но стоит только чуть отойти от очевидных достопримечательностей, как открывается совершенно иной город, в котором всегда найдется что-нибудь увлекательное. И если большинство европейских городов встречает гостей с распростертыми объятиями, то Милан с первого взгляда может показаться слишком холодным и отстраненным. Как пишет в своей книге «Милан: еда, мода и семья в замкнутом городе» Робин Леа, «Милан похож на закрытого, необщительного человека – его так же сложно сходу понять или почувствовать». Робин Леа родилась в Австралии, а в 18 лет переехала в Милан, где постепенно подружилась с законодателями городских вкусов – основательницей марки 10 Corso Como Карлой Соззани и легендарным дизайнером Барнабой Форнасетти. «Милан – это большая креативная машина. А когда вы живете здесь, то либо становитесь частью этой энергии и удивительной творческой globalblue.com

силы, либо не получаете никакого удовольствия», - утверждает Леа. Логично, что она рекомендует гостям города с головой погрузиться в творческое пространство Милана. Например, можно провести целый день, рассматривая эклектичную подборку в концепт-сторе Антонио Марраса, расположенном в индустриальном здании бывшей фабрики. Поиск входа в студию металлической скульптуры Осанны и Мадины Висконти ди Модроне иллюстрирует, насколько сложно ориентироваться в этом городе. За дверями скрытой от посторонних глаз (и оттого еще более привлекательной) студии мастерской скрываются замысловатые аксессуары и авангардная домашняя утварь. Леа отмечает, что ателье «не обозначено вывеской с улицы, а войти в него можно только через старинный внутренний двор, предварительно получив разрешение привратника». Компания Antiques & Boutiques помогает путешественникам познакомиться с подобными потайными местами Милана. Она разрабатывает индивидуальные экскурсии, посвященные дизайну, стилю, кухне и культуре, - словом всему тому, что способно передать истинный дух города. Эти туры, по уверению их авторов, «создаются и проводятся неравнодушными

150

globalblue.com

это чувство кажется безответным, тогда барьеры, наконец, рухнут, и город раскроет свое сердце», - обещает Леа. antoniomarras.it, osannavisconti.it, cavallienastri.com, antiquesandboutiques.com, taveggia.it, luini.it, exmauri.com, ceresio7.com, fortura.it 86: In Focus: The Aquazzura High Heel

В фокусе: Туфли на высоком каблуке Aquazurra

Оливия Майл поговорила с дизайнером Эдгардо Осорио, который под маркой Aquazzura создал самые узнаваемые туфли нашего десятилетия Культовые туфли всегда олицетворяют эпоху, с которой они связана: вспомните хотя бы платформы 1960-х, классические шпильки 1980-х и балетки 1990-х. А в 2010-х все самое роскошное и интересное в стиле воплощают туфли Sexy Ting от Aquazzura с прорезным узором. Эдгардо Осорио, колумбиец по происхождению, основал марку Aquazzura во Флоренции в 2011 году. И первой же разработкой под собственным именем

ARTWORK: EdgARdO OsORiO

местными жителями, и они приглашают вас разделить с ними город, которые они знают и любят». Одна из остановок в такой экскурсии – винтажный магазин Cavallie e Nastri в районе Brera (кстати, по соседству расположены арт-галереи и многочисленные дизайнерские бутики). Еще один способ проникнуться духом Милана – конечно, еда, главная итальянская страсть. Больше самой еды для итальянцев значит, пожалуй, только культура трапезы. Леа настоятельно рекомендует начинать каждый день в Милане с чашки кофе в одной из старейших кондитерских Taveggia, причем пить его нужно al bar – то есть прямо у барной стойки. Продолжить день имеет смысл в Luini на Via Santa Redegonda. Здесь готовят восхитительные сладости с тех самых пор, как Джузеппина Луини приехала в Милан – то есть с 1949 года. «Сегодня те дети, которые когда-то прибегали за нашими panzerotti после школы, возвращаются к нам уже со своими детьми», - делятся представители семье Луини, которые по-прежнему управляют этим заведением. Миланцы также ценят ресторан Ex Mauri на улице Via Federico Confalonieri, в меню которого фаршированные кальмары (calamari ripieni на итальянском), паста с цветками цуккини, соленая треска в кляре и другие венецианские блюда удачно дополняют обильную и насыщенную миланскую кухню. На ужин отправляйтесь в ресторан Ceresio 7 шефповара Элио Саррони, чтобы насладиться неповторимыми видами и ароматами. Совершенно иным антуражем обладает старейший в Милане магазин игрушек Fortuna Giocattoli на улице Via Olmetto, основанный в 1914 году. Возможно, его очарование не столь очевидно, тем не менее, это место сохранило верных покупателей, а вместе с ними – и исторический статус заведения, воплощающего «реальный» Милан. «Самый ценный опыт требует больших усилий. А если человек готов искать и открывать истинный Милан, если он сможет полюбить этот город, даже когда

152

стали эти классические по силуэту туфлиботильоны. Проработав до этого десять лет на Salvatore Ferragamo, Осорио понял, что в Тоскане многие века работали «лучшие в мире обувщики и кожевенники». Поэтому он решил открыть свой лейбл именно в Италии. Теперь туфли Осорио продаются по всему миру, в том числе – в бутике La Rinascente в Милане. Источником вдохновения для дизайнера стали образы «лебёдушек» из 1960-х – так свои подруг называл писатель Трумана Капоте. Осорио хотел создать обувь для «современных лебедей»: «Я латиноамериканец и люблю танцевать, делится он. – Побывав на самых разных свадьбах, я заметил, что девушки снимают туфли перед танцами. Мне захотелось разработать такую обувь, чтобы они могли танцевать в ней всю ночь напролет». Узнаваемый силуэт, тонкий каблук высотой 11 см, резной узор, отчасти обнажающий ногу – все это создает особенное, чувственное ощущение: «Вырезы делают эти туфли такими сексуальными, поскольку обнажают кожу, но сама нога при этом остается сокрытой», - объясняет дизайнер. После презентации модели в 2011 году ее популярности способствовала итальянский модный редактор Джованна Баттаглиа. Она часто оказывалась перед объективами globalblue.com

фотографов в туфлях Sexy Ting, причем разных оттенков, неизменно ярких. Своим чувственным и вместе с тем остро-модным обликом туфли идеально вписались в выразительный стиль Баттаглиа. И постепенно стали хитом в модной тусовке. Насыщенная цветовая палитра – еще одна сильная сторона Sexy Ting, созвучная современному модному тренду. Мировые иконы стиля разных поколений отдают предпочтения хиту Aquazzura – от Кары Делевинь и Эммы Уотсон до Соланж Ноулз и Натальи Водяновой. «Мне нравится думать, что моя обувь подходит людям разных возрастов, - говорит Осорио. – Что ее можно носить круглый год и в любых ситуациях. Я встречал знаменитостей на званых вечерах, которые выбирали эти туфли к вечерним платьям, и девушек на пляже в джинсовых шортах и футболках. Они непринужденно подходят к любому наряду, что делает их очень актуальными». Для основной части этой модели используется мягкая замша, которая естественным образом принимает форму ноги. Sexy Ting первой испытала эксклюзивную технику, которую Aquazzura вскоре запатентовала. Теперь делать из обуви «вторую кожу» умеет только эта компания: ее модели непередаваемо гибкие и удобные, словно «вы надели перчатку на высокий каблук».

154

Особый комфорт обеспечивает специально разработанная подошва: мастера вложили много времени и сил в изучение существующих техник и поиск нового решения. «Эксперт, прорабатывающий технологию для моих новых вещей, освоил конструирование обуви в совершенстве. Теперь вес тела более равномерно распределяется между подушечками пальцев, взъемом и пяткой, тогда как в обычных туфлях максимальное давление оказывается на подушечки пальцев – и нога чувствует себя крайне неуютно», - отмечает Осорио. В результате Sexy Ting прославились как «обувь для модных недель» и «туфли на 24 часа» и оказались особенно востребованы среди модных редакторов в сезон презентаций международных коллекций. «Ботильоны Sexy Ting не подвластна капризам модных сезонов и веяниям времени. Их эстетика впитала красоту и изысканность итальянского стиля, который просто невозможно исчерпать. Это та небольшая роскошная деталь, которая, как это бывает, делает весь образ великолепным», - подытоживает Осорио. aquazzura.com

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.94 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах Франции, Швейцарии и Великобритании при возврате наличными взимается дополнительная комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. 美文翻译

66: Creative Edge 创意前沿声势浩大的艺术运动正影响着米兰的最新时尚设计，Harriet Quick 报道

142: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.

globalblue.com

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

156

从上季开始，设计师们就为植物世界深深着迷，他们所运用的野生花朵、花瓣状层叠与大量灵感来自植物的设计，足以填满一座自然历史博物馆。在秋冬季，他们将注意力转投更为神秘、更挑战思辨的当代艺术领域，尤其是包豪斯运动与激浪派运动，以及白驹过隙般的装置与表演艺术。时尚与艺术之间的友谊，与时尚本身一样长久，当下的联姻不仅带来高水准的合作系列，还有诸多艺术盛事得到赞助，例如伦敦Frieze艺博会与巴黎的Fiac艺博会，这些活动拉开了秋季的序幕，也为时装裁剪、架构与演绎形式等各方面带来潜移默化的影响。在为最新一季的男装与女装系列做早期研究的过程中，Miuccia Prada（也是Prada艺术基金会的主理人）沉浸于1970年代激浪派运动的激进作品里。激浪派里有来自艺术、电影与音乐各领域的国际艺术家，他们注重自发性、幽默以及对正统展览形式的游击干预，并强调任何材质，从报纸到碎瓷片，都可以成为艺术的主题与载体。为了向激浪派艺术家Joseph Beuys致敬——他常用毛毡与皮革将物品、房间、甚至自己覆盖起来，Prada的米兰发布会空间也被灰色厚工业毛毡所覆盖，模特们楔形高跟鞋发出的声响被消减，就像来参加地下艺术运动的秘密集会一般。系列中的造型几乎是反时尚的：怪异的色彩组合（棕色、黄色与黑色），颈链、领带与毛皮装饰将朴素的设计变得

令人瞠目结舌。秋冬季最令人印象深刻的发布会，都可被称作艺术现场。譬如Agnona的发布会请来了Dree Hemingway——Ernest Hemingway智慧与美丽并存的重孙女做模特。发布会在艺术装饰风格的场景中举行，皮革、羊皮与羽毛打造的空间内，穿插着毛茸花朵与羽毛装饰的踢脚板。Agnona的创意总监Stefano Pilati为这个意大利巨擘Ermenegildo Zegna掌控的品牌，带来了不可言喻的性感与触觉。身着波浪贴花图案茧型大衣、穿戴皮质晚装手套与宽腿裤的Hemingway，化身极度优雅的艺术使者。需要注意的是，代表永恒变化的波浪形，也是激浪派最喜欢使用的暗喻。对于织物与结构的兴趣与重视，让许多设计师将目光投向包豪斯艺术学校，这所由建筑师 Walter Gropius在1919年创办的多学科艺术与手工艺研究机构。包豪斯引人注目的无装饰建筑、家具与图案设计，激发了时装设计师们的想象力。Marni品牌的Consuelo Castiglioni，与Pilati在本季都使用了大胆的图案配色，创新的面料与复杂的剪裁工艺。Bottega Veneta品牌的Tomas Maier原本就十分精通并热衷于艺术与摄影，他为新一季创作出自称为“谜团”的夺目系列。上窄下宽的郁金香形裙装外套与装饰几何贴花镶片的直筒连衣裙，也是对手工构造学的借鉴。系列中的晚礼服则由薄纱与布满渐变色涟漪的雪纺面料缠绕而成，远远望去好似一幅精细的水墨画。随着新一季的系列纷纷运达店内，其艺术配方将面临顾客的考验。如果你发现自己为灰毛毡茧形大衣、双面羊绒饰边中裙，拼色块无袖夹克、丝质衬衣裙或是构成主义风格楔形鞋怦然心动，那么艺术与时装的联盟已成功将精神远播。 prada.com, agnona.com, bottegaveneta.com

76: The Magic Of Milan 米兰魔力贝思·德鲁斯（Beth Druce）发现，从隐秘的工作室到传统的商铺和咖啡馆，这座城市有太多的东西值得探索。在卢卡·瓜达格尼诺（Luca Guadagnino）的电影《我是爱》中，剧情围绕着一户居住在内基·坎皮里奥别墅（Villa Necchi Campiglio）的米兰望族展开。这栋历史悠久的别墅是一座隐藏在大教堂喧嚣背后的宅邸。造访米兰时很容易被惊艳的大教堂和 50种冰淇淋口味分散注意力，但是剖开这些表面的魅力，一个截然不同的城市显露出来，准备好让你深入它的内在。尽管许多欧洲的城市会张开热烈的臂膀欢迎 globalblue.com

你，米兰可能会显得有些冷漠。正如《米兰：在隐秘之城探索食物、时尚和家族》（Milan: discovering food, fashion and family in a private city）的作者罗宾·利亚（Robyn Lea）说的那样： “同样，非常注重隐私或矜持的人很难被读懂并经常受到误解，米兰也如此。” 澳大利亚出生的利亚在18岁时搬到米兰，这座城市的“风尚创造者们”慢慢让她陷入其中: 10 Corso Como的创始人卡拉·索赞尼（Carla Sozzani），传奇设计师巴纳巴·佛纳塞蒂（Barnaba Fornasetti），这些如雷贯耳的名字都是米兰制造。 “米兰就像一架大型的创意机器，你住在那儿就想成为这个能量和创意推动力的一部分，要不然你是不会喜欢这里的。”利亚说。因此，利亚呼吁游客们让自己沉浸在一些创意空间里，慢慢体会，比如安东尼奥·马拉斯（Antonio Marras）的概念店。在这座旧工厂里，游客可以花一天的时间细细挑选别具一格的作品。寻找金属雕刻家Osanna和Madina Visconti di Modrone的工作室显示出在这座城市里穿行的复杂性。这个温馨的地方陈列着精密的配饰和前卫的家居用品，是这个城市隐藏着最好的秘密之一。按照利亚的说法，这个工作室“在大街上没有标识，只能通过古老的内庭院进入，并需要获得守门人的同意”。这就是旅行服务供应商Antiques & Boutiques 可以帮忙的地方。这家公司提供度身打造的游览项目，专注于设计、格调、食物和文化等可以抓住米兰精髓的主题。公司说，他们的旅行团“是由热情洋溢、充满活力的本地人策划和引导的，他们邀请您一起分享这座他们熟悉热爱的城市”。旅行中的一站是布雷拉区的古着店Cavallie e Nastri。这个区域拥有米兰众多的艺术画廊和室内设计精品店。另一种渗透米兰外围的方式是通过意大利人最爱的美食。在许多方面，重要的是美食文化而不是食物本身。利亚建议来米兰参观的游人去米兰最古老的糕点店之一Taveggia的酒吧享用一杯咖啡，开始每一天。接下来可以去试一试Luini。这家小吃店位于圣雷德冈达大街（Via Santa Redegonda），自1949 年Guiseppina Luini来到这座城市，小店就开始烘培带馅儿的美味糕点。 “如今，以前放学后常来吃烤馅饼（panzerotti）的孩子带着他们自己的孩子一起来。”Luini家族这样解释说。本地人也喜欢聚集在Federico Confalonieri大街的Ex Mauri。在这里有丰富而丰盛的米兰菜肴，还有简便一点的威尼斯菜品可供选择，如calamari ripieni（酿鱿鱼）、西葫芦花配通心粉和盐皮鳕鱼。晚餐可以去大厨Elio Sirron的餐厅Ceresio 7 ，那里有独特的景致和绝妙的口味。最后可以去一个全然不同的地方。Olmetto大街 globalblue.com

PHOTO: RObyn Lea

158

的Fortura Giocattoli玩具店成立于1914年，堪称全米兰最古老的玩具店。一个地方可能没有流露出明显的吸引力却拥有忠诚的追随者，而这家店就完美的印证了这一点。追随者们巩固了其作为一家代表“真”米兰的百年老字号的地位。 “最有价值的经历需要花费最多的努力。当一个人准备好去探索发掘米兰，并在感觉没有回报的情况下也能够热爱这座城市的时候，障碍最终会消失，这座城市最后也会敞开她的心扉。”利亚总结道。 antoniomarras.it, osannavisconti.it, cavallienastri.com, antiquesandboutiques.com, taveggia.it, luini.it, exmauri.com, ceresio7.com,

fortura.it 86: In Focus: The Aquazzura High Heel 聚焦：Aquazurra高跟鞋迷情 Aquazzura缔造了近十年来最知名的鞋子之一。在这一期，奥利维亚·迈尔斯（Olivia Miles）将对话其设计背后的男人——埃德加多·奥索里奥（Edgardo Osorio）。

MILANO corso Vittorio Emanuele facebook.com/ibluesofficial

160

标志性的鞋履设计总是可以定义孕育它的时代：想一想20世纪60年代的松糕鞋，经典的80年代细高跟鞋和90年代的芭蕾舞鞋。而现在，在21世纪的10 年代，Aquazzura的Sexy Thing “性感小东西”镂空短靴浓缩了时尚所有好而美的一面。这款系带踝靴是由哥伦比亚出生的设计师埃德加多·奥索里奥打造的，他于2011年在佛罗伦萨创立了Aquazzura；而这是他为个人品牌第一次设计鞋履。在为萨瓦尔多·菲拉格慕（Salvatore Ferragamo）工作了十年之后，奥索里奥知道托斯卡纳是如何成为“世界最佳鞋匠和最优皮革”之乡的。他决定在意大利发布自己的个人品牌，而他的设计在世界各地均有销售，包括米兰的文艺复兴百货商店（La Rinascente）。奥索里奥的灵感来源于作家杜鲁门·卡波特在 60年代美艳的女性朋友们。卡波特将她们称之为“ 天鹅” ，而奥索里奥力图为“今日的天鹅们”设计一款鞋子。 “我是拉美人，热爱跳舞， ”他说。 “我参加过许多婚礼并记得女孩子们在开始跳舞之前脱掉鞋子的场景。我想设计一款鞋子，让女孩可以通宵跳舞。” 镂空的款式和11公分的细高跟让人可以一眼认出这款鞋子，而设计中感官和裸露的元素给予了鞋子与众不同的感觉。 “是镂空设计让这款鞋子如此性感。镂空让一些皮肤暴露在外，但足部的大部分仍然是被鞋子包裹在内的。”奥索里奥解释道。自2011年Aquazzura Sexy Thing短靴被推出以来，意大利时尚编辑吉奥瓦娜·巴塔格里亚（Giovanna Battaglia）率先掀起了这款鞋子的流行风暴。她经常被拍到穿着不同颜色的同款鞋，而这个设计也很快成为了各大时尚合集的热门单品。Sexy Thing将具有感官性和先锋性的设计与闪亮的色彩相结合，这与巴塔格里亚活力四射的风格堪称天作之合。除了设计以外，Sexy Thing的独特之处在于其充满生气的配色选择，彰显了目前时 globalblue.com

尚对于大胆、饱和色调的关注。现在，从卡拉·迪瓦伊（Cara Delevingne）到艾玛·沃特森，从索朗· 诺尔斯（Solange Knowles）到纳塔利娅·沃佳诺娃（Natalia Vodianova），不同年龄段的国际风尚偶像们都穿着Sexy Thing短靴。 “我喜欢这样想，我的鞋子是可以跨越世代的， ”奥索里奥说。 “你可以一年到头都穿着它，打扮得或隆重或随意。我看过红毯上的名流身着晚礼服穿着这双鞋，也看过沙滩上的女孩们用牛仔短裤和 T恤搭配这双鞋。这就是为什么它如此摩登的原因：它很轻松，几乎可以与任何装扮搭配。” 鞋身是由无衬里的羊绒绒面依据足部的形状精心制成的，仿佛与足部融为一体浑然天成。事实上，Sexy Thing短靴是第一款使用Aquazzura生产技术的设计。现在这个技术已经受到了专利保护。根据公司的描述，这项“第二肌肤”的技术是 Aquazzura独一无二的，是它让鞋子拥有不同寻常的柔软和舒适，让你感觉好像“在高跟鞋上戴手套”一样。舒适也来自于鞋底。能工巧匠们花费了许多时间研究各种构造和贴合的技术，才有了现在的成果。 “制作鞋楦的工匠想出了一种构造鞋子的方法，让身体的重量可以更加均匀的分布在足跟、足弓和足背上，而不是相反，让身体的所有重量集中于足跟，这样会很不舒服。”奥索里奥说。在品牌的国际鞋履系列发布期间，Sexy Thing在时尚编辑之间流行起来。这一独创设计使之获得了“时装周鞋履” 和“24小时鞋履”的称号。 “Sexy Thing是一款不分季节、不因时间而腿色的鞋子。我的美学观反映出了一种意大利风格的美丽与精巧，从来都不会设计过度，画蛇添足。是细微和奢华的细节缔造出伟大的东西，就像生活中其他的事情一样。”奥索里奥最后说道。

aquazzura.com

V I A MO N TE N A P O L E O N E , 1 9 R E-OP E N I N G 3 R D N OV E M B E R TE MP O R A RY STO R E VIA VERRI, 4 - MILANO TE L : + 39 02 76 003 697 M ON DAY- SATU R DAY 1 0A M - 7 P M S H O P AT TE STO N I .CO M

162

142: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程：

1. 消费购物无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form）。 2. 申请退税

当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联退税点领取您的退税款。联系方式：

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€154.94并且节约高达购买价格15.5%的金额。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。若选择即时现金退税，部分退税点将以退税表格为单位收取一定数额的手续费。日本語翻訳

66: Creative Edge 先端の創造力影響力ある芸術運動がミラノの最新ファッションデザインのインスピレーションとなっている。ハリエット・クイックがレポートする。先シーズン、デザイナーたちは植物の世界に魅了され、野に咲く花や花びらのようなレヤーをはじめ、自然史博物館を埋めるのに十分なほど植物関連のモチーフをデザインに取り入れた。秋冬シーズンは謎めいて知的要求水準の高いモダンアートの世界に注意を向けている。具体的には、バウハウスとフルクサスの芸術運動と、インスタレーションアートやパフォーマンスアートの束の間の世界だ。ファッションとアートの密接な関係はファッショ globalblue.com

ンそのものの歴史と同じくらい古く、今シーズンは、名高いブランドのコラボレーションや秋シーズンを告げるフリーズ・ロンドンやパリのフィアックといったアートフェアでのスポンサーシップの形で見られる他、カットや造形、表現法にもさりげなく表れている。ミウッチヤ・プラダ（プラダ芸術財団の理事長も務める）は、メンズウェアとウーマンズウェアの最新コレクションのためのリサーチで、1970年代のフルクサス運動家の急進的な作品を調べ上げた。フルクサスはアート、映画、音楽の分野出身で、自発性とユーモアを重んじ、公式の展示会よりゲリラ的な作品展示を好む多国籍のアーティスト集団で、新聞紙から欠けた瀬戸物まで、あらゆる材料がアートの主題や素材になり得ると強調した。フルクサスのアーティスト、ヨーゼフ・ボイスはしばしば物体や部屋、自分自身をフェルトや革で覆ったが、プラダでは彼に敬意を表して、ミラノのショースペースを産業用の分厚いグレーのフェルトで覆った。モデルがキャットウォークに現れた時、ウェッジ

164

ヒールの靴音がフェルトで消されて、まるでアングラ芸術運動の秘密会合から出てきたかのような雰囲気だった。ほとんどアンチ・ファッション的なスタイルが顕著に見られ、妙な配色（茶、黄、黒）やネックレス、ネクタイ、毛皮のトリムが、平凡な服を観客が思わず会話を忘れて見入る服へと見事に変貌させていた。秋冬シーズンで最も記憶に残るファッションショーは、芸術的な「ハプニング」と評してもいいものだった。その好例が、アーネスト・ヘミングウェイの美しきひ孫娘で才女のドリー・ヘミングウェイをモデルに起用したアニオナだ。アール・デコ風の舞台はレザーと羊皮、羽根で覆われ、毛皮製の花や羽根の幅木を配した設えで、アニオナのクリエイティブ・ダイレクター、ステファノ・ピラーティが、イタリアの有力ファッション企業エルメネジルド・ゼニアが所有するこの高級ブランドの官能性と可触性を表出した。波型のアップリケが施されたコクーンコート、レザーの夜会用手袋、ワイドカットパンツといったいで立ちのヘミングウェイは、とびきりエレガントなアートパトロンのようだった。常に進行中の変化を意味する波が、フルクサス運動家が好んで使う隠喩だったことは言うまでもない。生地と造形に関心が集まり、それらが重視される中、1919 年に建築家ヴァルター・グロピウスが創設した多分野連携の工芸学校バウハウスに、多くのデザイナーがインスピレーションを求めた。装飾を一切排除した印象的なバウハウスの建築、家具、グラフィックデザインが、ファッションデザイナーたちの想像力を捉えたのだ。マルニのコンスエロ・カスティリオーニやアニオナのピラーティは今シーズン、大胆で絵画的な配色と革新的な組み立て、複雑なカット技法を用いている。ボッテガ・ヴェネタでは、アートと写真を愛し造詣も深いトーマス・マイヤーが、自ら「パズル」と呼ぶ見逃せないコレクションを創り出した。フィット・アンド・フレアのコートドレスやシフトドレスには幾何学模様のパネルがアップリケされていたが、それらは造形技法のお手本でもあった。イブニングウェアは、グラデーションのさざ波状のチュールやシフォンをふんだんに使って複雑に組み立てられ、遠くから見るとまるで繊細な墨絵のようだった。こうしたアートフルなデザインは、新シーズンのコレクションが店頭にお目見えした時に評価が下る。グレイのフェルト製コクーンコート、カシミアのパネルを配したダブルフェースのミディスカート、カラーブロックで構成された袖なしジャケット、シルクのシャツドレス、構成主義的なウェッジソールの靴等々。欲しいなと思ったら、アートとファッションの融合が成功した証拠だ。 prada.com、agnona.com、bottegaveneta.com globalblue.com

76: The Magic Of Milan ミラノ・マジック隠れたアトリエから老舗のショップやカフェまで、この都市には発見が一杯。ベス・ドゥルースが探訪した。ルカ・グァダニーノの映画『 I Am Love（邦題・ミラノ、愛に生きる）』では、賑やかなドゥオーモ広場の裏手にひっそりと佇むヴィラ・ネッキ・カンピリオに住むミラノの名門一族を中心にストーリーが展開する。ミラノといえば、荘厳な大聖堂やフレーバーが50 種類もあるジェラートに気を取られがちだが、そうした明らかな名所、名物の裏に隠れたものに目を凝らすと、違った街が現れて訪問者をたちまち虜にする。ヨーロッパの多くの都市が大手を広げて観光客を歓迎する中で、ミラノはどこかしらよそよそしく見えることがある。ただ、それは『ミラノ：内気な街の食、ファッション、家族（Milan: discovering food, fashion and family in a private city）』の著者ロビン・リーが言うように、「とても内気で無口な人の心情が読みづらくて誤解されがちなことがあるけれど、ミラノという都市も同じ」だ。オーストラリア生まれで18歳でミラノに越して来たリーは、10コルソコモの創設者カーラ・ソッザーニや伝説的デザイナーのバルナバ・フォルナセッティといったこの街の「テイストメーカー」に次第に惹きつけられていった。「ミラノは巨大な創造集団のようなもので、ここに住めばそのエネルギーと創造力の一端になりたいと思うもの。そうでなければ、この街を楽しむことはできない」と、リーはいう。そこで、リーは訪問者にクリエイティブな空間にどっぷり浸かることを薦めている。アントニオ・マッラスのコンセプトストアがその一例で、古い工場を改装したこの店舗では、幅広い品揃えをあれこれ見て回るだけで一日過ごせる。この街の探訪が勝手を知らない人にとっていかに難しいかは、オサンナ・ヴィスコンティ・ディ・モドローネとマディーナ・ヴィスコンティ・ディ・モドローネの彫金家母娘のスタジオを探し当てる苦労でわかる。手の込んだアクセサリーやアヴァンギャルドなホームウェアが並ぶこの居心地のいい空間は、知る人ぞ知るミラノの穴場だ。リーによれば、このアトリエは「看板も出ておらず、ドアマンの許可を得なければ入れず、昔ながらの中庭を通り抜けた先にある」という。ここぞ、ツアー業者「アンティーク＆ブティック」の出番だ。同社は、ミラノ魂の真髄を捉えたデザイン、スタイル、食、文化に焦点を当てたテーラーメイドツアーを提供している。同社のツアーは、「ミラノっ子が知り、愛する街の魅力を共有してもらいたいとい

166

う情熱的で活力に満ちた地元住民が主導し、管理している。」ツアーで訪問する場所の一つは、ヴィンテージショップのカヴァッリ・エ・ナストリだ。この店のあるブレラ地区はアートギャラリーが多く、インテリアデザインブティックも点在している。ミラノの外見のよそよそしさを打ち破るもう一つの方法は、イタリア人が愛してやまない食を通じてだが、いろいろな意味で重要なのは食べ物そのものより食文化だ。リーは訪問者に毎日をミラノ有数の老舗、al bar（喫茶店）タヴェッジアでコーヒーを飲むことから始めてはどうかとアドバイスしている。そして昼食はルイーニでどうぞ。サンタ・レデゴンダ通りにあるこの店は、店主ジュゼッピーナ・ルイーニがこの街に来た1949年以来、おかずパンを焼き続けている。かつて放課後にパンツェロッティを食べに来ていた子供たちが、今は自分たちの子供を連れて来てくれる」とルイーニはいう。もう一つ、地元民に人気なのがフェデリコ・コンファロニエーリ通りのエックス・マウリ。このレストランでは、カラマーリ・リピエニ（イカの詰め物）、ズッキーニの花のスパゲッティ、カリッとした衣付き塩鱈といったベネチア料理が、リッチで食べ応えのあるミラノ料理に代わる軽めの食事になる。ディナーはエリオ・シローニがシェフを務めるセレシオ7が眺めも味も抜群だ。最後にガラリと趣向を変えて、オルメット通りのフォルトゥラ・ジョカトーリは、1914年創業とミラノで最も古い玩具店だ。この店こそ、一見どうということはないのに地元で根強い人気があり、「本物の」ミラノを代表する100年物のお宝の典型だ。「とびきり貴重な体験をするには、それ相当の努力が必要だ。そして、人がミラノを発見し、そのベールの下にある本当の姿に触れようとする時、たとえ globalblue.com

その想いが一方的なものであっても、バリアはいつか取り除かれ、街が心を許すようになる」と、リーは締めくくっている。 antoniomarras.it, osannavisconti.it, cavallienastri.com, antiquesandboutiques.com, taveggia.it, luini.it, exmauri.com, ceresio7.com,

fortura.it 86: In Focus: The Aquazzura High Heel 注目のブランド：アクアズーラのハイヒール

2010年代の靴の中で、一目でそれとわかるブランドの一つがアクアズーラだ。オリヴィア・マイルズが、そのデザインの創作者エドガルド・オッソリオにインタビューした。アイコニックな靴デザインは決まって、それが着想された時代を特徴づける。60 年代のプラットフォーム、80年代の典型的なスティレットヒール、90年代のバレエパンプスがそうだ。そして今、2010年代のファッションの素晴らしさを体現しているのが、アクアズーラのカットアウトブーティー、「セクシーシング」だ。この足元を包むようなくるぶし丈のブーツのバラエティを創り出したのは、コロンビア生まれのデザイナーで2011年にフィレンツェでアクアズーラを創設したエドガルド・オッソリオ。セクシーシングは彼が自己レーベルのために初めてデザインした靴だ。サルヴァトーレ・フェラガモで10 年働いたオッソリオは、トスカーナが「世界一優れた靴職人と最良質の革」を誇る地であることを目の当たりにし、自分のレーベルを立ち上げるならイタリアだと心に決めた。彼のデザインはミラノの百貨店ラ・リナシェンテをはじめ、世界

速

169

中で手に入れることができる。 1960 年代に作家トルーマン・カポーティが白鳥たちと呼んだグラマラスな女友達にインスピレーションを得たオッソリオは、「現代の白鳥たち」のための靴を創りたいと考えた。「僕はラテン男で、ダンスが大好き」という彼だが、「数多くの結婚パーティに行きましたが、女性がダンスを始める前に靴を脱いでいるのを見た記憶があって、女性が一晩中履いて踊れるような靴を創りたいと思ったのです。」カットアウトスタイルと11cmの細いヒールで一目でそれとわかるその靴は、肌を露出する官能的なデザインが独特だ。「カットアウトで肌が見えるようになっているのがセクシーですが、それでも足はしっかりカバーしているんですよ」とオッソリオは説明する。 2011年の発売以来、この靴の人気上昇の最先鋒となってきたのがイタリアのファッションエディター、ジョヴァンナ・バッタグリア。様々な色のセクシーシングを履いた彼女の姿がしばしば写真に撮られたことで、このデザインはファッション好きの間でたちまちヒット商品となった。バッタグリアの華麗なスタイルは、官能性と先端性を兼ね備えたデザインで明るい色が冴えるセクシーシングにぴったりマッチしている。デザイン以外にセクシーシングの特徴はというと、大胆な飽和色が注目される現在のファッショントレンドを考慮して鮮やかな配色を揃えている点だ。今や、セクシーシング・ブーティーはカーラ・デルヴィーニュ、エマ・ワトソン、ソランジュ・ノウルズ、ナタリア・ヴォディアノヴァなど、年齢層を問わず世界のスタイルアイコンの足元を飾っている。「僕の靴は世代を超えたものと思いたい」というオッソリオ。「一年中履けて、ドレスアップもドレスダウンもできます。イブニングドレスに合わせて授賞式の赤カーペットを闊歩するセレブたちも見ましたし、ビーチでデニムのショートパンツとシャツに合わせている女の子たちも見ました。それがモダンさの秘密でしょう。気楽に履けて、ほぼどんな服装にでも合う靴です。」この靴の本体は裏地無しのカシミアスエード製で、自然に足の形に馴染む。実は、セクシーシング・ブーティーは、アクアズーラ独特で現在は特許登録されている製造技術を使ったデザインの第一号だ。同社によれば、この「セカンドスキン」技術はアクアズーラ独自の製造法で、靴が信じられないほど柔らかく履き心地の良いものになる。まるで、「ハイヒール上の手袋のようなフィット感」があるのだ。履き心地の良さは靴底にも関係している。職人たちが、造りの良さとフィット感を実現するために数々の技術を時間をかけて研究した成果だ。「履く人の全体重が足指の付け根にかかると、履き心地が悪くなります。そうではなくて、足指の付け根から土踏 globalblue.com

まず、踵にかけて体重を万遍なく分散する靴の造りを、うちの靴型職人が創り出したんです」と、オッソリオはいう。この特徴のおかげで、セクシーシングは国際的なコレクション披露の場でファッションエディターたちが好んで履く靴となり、「ファッションウィーク用の靴」、「24時間履ける靴」という評判を得た。「セクシーシングはシーズンも時代も問わず履ける靴です。僕の美感に反映されているのは、ある種のイタリアンスタイルに見られるような、デザインを凝り過ぎず大げさになることが決してない美しさと洗練です。何かを素敵にするのは、ちょっとした贅沢なディテールなんです。生活のすべてについて言えることですけどね」と、オッソリオは締めくくった。 aquazzura.com

142: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税にグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを踏むだけです。

1. お買い物お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。

2.還付請求ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にスタンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。お問い合わせ： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.94以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高 15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください。なお、現金での即日還付が必要な場合は、還付の場所によって、各タックスフリーフォームにつき固定の追加手数料をとられる場合があります。

170 | P RO D U C T S

Souvenir

EASY RIDER Italian fashion house Versace is known for its extravagant approach to modern luxury and this quilted leather motorcycle helmet is a great example of just that. Inspired by the sense of youth and liberation associated with the motorcycle, designer Donatella Versaceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest menswear collection is a celebration of individuality and freedom. Bikers have long been associated with rebellious style, making Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 142

them the perfect inspiration for Versace, a brand that has always striven to break with tradition and embrace experimentation in its designs. The helmet, in quilted black leather with gold detailing, is, of course, functional, providing the head protection the motorcyclist needs, but it is also a beautiful item. hl Versace helmet, from â&#x201A;Ź790, Versace, Via Montenapoleone 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8528, versace.com * for map go to page 126