SHOP Milan SS14

MONTBL ANC

NICOLAS RIEUSSEC CHRONOGR APH AUTOMATIC

A tribute to Nicolas Rieussec, the inventor of the first patented chronograph. Montblanc , second time Manufacture Calibre zone with day and night display. Crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland.

MONTBLANC BOUTIQUE MILANO: Via Montenapoleone 27 B - Corso Vercelli 1 Piazza Duomo Aeroporto Malpensa Boarding Area “A” Schengen Aeroporto Malpensa Boarding Area “B” extra Schengen

Visit and shop montblanc.com

Piazza Della Scala 5, Milano Via Santâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Andrea 5, Milano SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM

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Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera ILLUSTRATION: PAUL X JOhNSON

‫دليل ألانيا‬

Welcome to Milan This SHOP guide will help you discover all that Milan has to ofer, including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores, as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit. In this edition, we also take an in-depth look at the latest Italian clothing designs (see our feature on page 64) and fnd out about the organisation behind Milan Fashion Week (turn to page 72). The new Global Blue mobile app is a great way to fnd the very latest on your chosen destination – there are more details in our news section on page 51. As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. For the very latest information, visit our website, globalblue.com, fnd us on Facebook at Facebook.com/GlobalBlue, follow us on Twitter @GlobalBlue or email me at echeevers@globalblue.com. Claiming your tax savings is even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the Global Blue website.

Emma Cheevers globalblue.com

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Contributors

PHOTO: DORCAS BROWN

ILLUSTRATION: MALIKA FAVRE

Malika Favre Illustrator Malika Favre created this season’s cover for SHOP Milan. Malika’s bold and elegant artwork makes her the perfect choice for this edition, as Milan’s designers showed pop art-inspired and fun creations at this season’s fashion week ‒ see our cover feature on page 64. Malika has created her own vision of the trend with this high-impact and wonderfully playful illustration. Read more about our cover illustrations and the full interview with Malika at globalblue.com/covers.

Stephen Doig Stephen Doig is SHOP’s features editor. A regular columnist for the men’s section of the Telegraph, he is a former Harper’s Bazaar staf member and has also written for Vogue, GQ and the Financial Times.

Ruairidh Pritchard Ruairidh Pritchard, assistant production editor at SHOP, studied journalism in Glasgow, where he was editor of his university’s awardwinning magazine. Ruairidh is a keen traveller and writes for a variety of publications.

Harriet Quick Journalist Harriet Quick reports on the latest fashion designs for this edition of SHOP Milan. She has held senior roles at the Guardian and British Vogue, where she was the fashion features director for over a decade.

Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Malika Favre Contributor Harriet Quick Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau

James Morris

Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworker Laura Soler Commercial artworking assistant Dan O’Brien Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese commercial editor Xue Cheng Chinese fashion editor Jiafei Fei Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Bingjie Ao, Yinzhang Lin, Jun Liu, Shi Yin, Yi Zhang Chinese intern Daniel Huang Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH - 1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Product manager Luca Russo Project manager Omar Haque International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution project manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy

G L O B A L B L U E I TA LY Country manager Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales manager Antonella Bertossi, Flavio Gatti Marketing sales specialist Eleonora Busico Sales key account manager Salvatore Smith Sales account manager Erika Zahar International key account managers Stefano Cardinale, Sabrina Schiavone Key account managers Monica Affaticati, Benedetta Andreini, Caterina De Bernardo, Manuela Intili, Consuelo Murari, Alberta Reinach, Marco Savino, Account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Nadia Busletta, Gloria Di Domenico, Laura Durante, Gabriele Giuntini, Francesca Ramiccia, Giordano Senzacqua Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese

globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

Contents

PHOTO: Andre’ LucAT/SGP

p.64

P ro d u c t s 28 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from Milan this season 30 My Favourites Furla’s cEo Eraldo Poletto reveals his top places and products in Milan 32 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 42 Street Style our pick of Milan’s best dressed for spring/ summer 2014 N Ews 48 Shop Window one store not to be missed in Milan 50 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products 62 In Store … … with roberto Botticelli in his Via della spiga boutique

Above: Moschino spring/summer 2014

F E At u r E s 64 Cover Story: Let There Be Light Milan has embraced the fun side of fashion this season, Harriet Quick discovers 72 Fashion Force Mario Boselli, the man behind Milan Fashion week, gives a rare interview to sHoP’s stephen doig 78 All In The Detail superb craftsmanship coupled with impeccable design: no wonder Italy’s fne leather accessories labels are proving such a hit with men around the world, says ruairidh Pritchard E x PE r I E NcE 86 Table Talk Milan’s fnest restaurants combine innovative cuisine with efortlessly stylish interiors to create a unique dining experience, reports Verity Hogan 94 Stay In Style sHoP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

MILLA JOVOVICH MARELLA.COM

Contents Gu i de 100 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Milan 128 My City ilaria Sesso shares her Milan recommendations

t R a n S l at i O n S 134 Русский Перевод 142 美文翻译 148 日本語翻訳 SOu v e n i R 154 the essential item to bring home

eSSenti a lS 132 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping

don’t waste a minute on your travels – use our dedicated destination and product guides. We take you through the most exclusive local shopping areas and give you in-depth buying advice on how to make a great investment in the right luxury piece.

e nGl i Sh | Р ус с к и й | 中文

the latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

Get SOcial

daily ShOppinG neWS

Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-the-minute shopping tips and insider information.

We’ve got the latest information on destination shopping, whether it’s the new season’s collections, store openings or limited-edition pieces.

/GlobalBlue /GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue /globalblue /globalblue /globalblue

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Win MOnthly cOMpetitiOnS We’ve got great giveaways for our readers to win, from the latest accessories and shopping vouchers to luxury hotels stays.

PHOTO: © MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

deStinatiOn & BuyinG GuideS

MILANO Piazza San Babila 3 | Tel. +39 02 76000366 10 Stores in the city

boggi.com | shop.boggi.com

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Check Out

THE FLOWER OF LOVE Inspired by one of the most beautiful fowers in the world, the hibiscus, this stunning ring from Damiani showcases the brilliance of Italian fne jewellery design. Founded in Italy in 1924 by Enrico Grassi Damiani, the brand is renowned worldwide for excellence in jewellery and has supplied many infuential people and noble families since its foundation. Part of the new Ibisco collection, the ring is formed from pink gold set with sparkling sapphires in shades of pink, Save up to 15.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 132

amethyst, rhodolite and diamonds. The hibiscus represents warmth and love in diferent regions around the world: in Europe it means ‘you are beautiful’, in Polynesia it is given as a welcome gift and in China the hibiscus tree symbolises wealth and fame. hl

Damiani Ibisco ring, €6,090, Damiani, Via Montenapoleone 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 8088, damiani.com * for map go to page 114

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My Favourites: eraLDo PoLetto Premium lifestyle brand Furla is known for its beautiful bags, which mix contemporary style with the manufacturing expertise the company has gained since it was set up 80 years ago. CEO Eraldo Poletto has been instrumental in maintaining the balance between Furla’s Italian creative roots and its international outlook. In-between business meetings and early morning bike rides, Eraldo took time to share some of his favourite places in Milan with SHOP’s Ximena Daneri furla.com 1

1. ‘Deus Ex Machina is the perfect shop for artisan-made and customised bicycles, including fxed-gear models’ Deus Ex Machina, Via Thaon de Revel 3, 20159 Milan, +39 02 8342 2610, deuscustoms.com

2. ‘An historic restaurant in the centre of Milan, Il Baretto Al Baglioni is the perfect meeting place for Italian and international jetsetters’ Il Baretto Al Baglioni Restaurant, Via Senato 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 781255, ilbarettoalbaglioni.it

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3. ‘Antonio Battaglia is one of the most farsighted and talented art dealers in town and is best known for supporting cutting-edge artists. A recent exhibition was dedicated to Luca Valotta’ Galleria Antonio Battaglia, Via Ciovasso 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3651 4048, galleriaantoniobattaglia.com

S H O P | 31

4. ‘Located in the design district, Mafalda 86 specialises in refned eyewear, made in Italy. Its photocromic lenses ensure maximum performance in all light conditions’ Mafalda 86 sunglasses, €240, Mafalda 86, Via Tortona 19, 20144 Milan, +39 333 854 9929, mafalda86.it

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5. ‘From Furla’s Travel & Business collection, this foldable carry-on bag in black safano leather features nylon inserts and metallic details and is equipped with a double top handle and removable shoulder strap’ Furla bag, price on request, Furla, Piazza del Duomo 31, 20122 Milan, +39 02 8909 6794, furla.com

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GET CREATIVE Mix art-inspired prints and shapes for a look that speaks volumes

1. Pinko dress, €260, Pinko, Corso Venezia 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0091, pinko.it

2. FreyWille earrings, €620, FreyWille, Via Montenapoleone 29, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 1241, frey-wille.com 3. Emilio Pucci clutch bag, €1,405, Emilio Pucci, Via Montenapoleone 14, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 8356, emiliopucci.com

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4. Baldinini shoes, €440, Baldinini, Via Montenapoleone 15, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 2202, baldinini.it

shop.santonishoes.com

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PASTEL PARTY The softest colours can have the biggest impact 1

1. Rosantica necklace, €486, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, 10corsocomo.com

2. Louis Vuitton bag, price on request, Louis Vuitton, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7214 7011, louisvuitton.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 132

3. Escada trousers, €470, Escada, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 4269, escada.com

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PHOTO: (6) Weyer & Grill STudiOS

4. Burberry jacket, price on request, Burberry, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3601 0852, burberry.com

5. Liu Jo purse, €69, Liu Jo, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 30, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7631 7858, liujo.com 6. Meissen ring, €2,750, Villa Meissen, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8942 3725, meissen.com

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7. Miu Miu shoes, €490, Miu Miu, Via Sant’Andrea 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 1799, miumiu.com

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NEUTRAL GEAR Desert colours, from sand to stone, will keep you cool this season

1. Salvatore Ferragamo watch, €1,240, Salvatore Ferragamo, Via Montenapoleone 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6660, ferragamo.com 2. Santoni shoes, €320, Santoni, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0508, santonishoes.com

3. Cos shorts, €59, Cos, Corso Venezia 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0649, cosstores.com 4. G-Star jacket, €199.90, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, g-star.com

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5. Ermenegildo Zegna vest, €625, Ermenegildo Zegna, Via Montenapoleone 27E, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6437, zegna.com

PHOTOS: (1) CeSare GualdOni; (3) PaCkSHOTfaCTOry

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SHORT AND SWEET

1. Marras + Piquadro iPad holder, €168, Piquadro, Via della Spiga 33, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 8786, piquadro.com

3. Jimmy Choo shoes, €365, Jimmy Choo, Via Sant’Andrea 1A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4548 1770, jimmychoo.com

2. Cos shorts, €55, Cos, Corso Venezia 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0649, cosstores.com

4. Bulgari bag, price on request, Bulgari, Via Santa Radegonda 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 885 2285, bulgari.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping Tax free, see page 132

5. Mango top, €29.99, Mango, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 24-28, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7601 4530, mango.com

PHOTOS: (2) PackSHOTfacTOry; (3) ricHard Valencia PHOTOgraPHy; (4) MaurO fabbiO STudiO fOTOgraficO

Pair this season’s stripes with sleek city shorts in rich burgundy

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NATURAL DELIGHTS Floral prints are ofset by sporty styles and masculine colours 3

1. AG Jeans jeans, €94, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, agjeans.com

3. Diesel shirt, €130, Diesel, Piazza San Babila 1-3, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7639 6762, diesel.com

2. Canali bag, €730, Canali, Via Pietro Verri 1-3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 0365, canali.it

4. Hublot Big Bang Unico King gold ceramic watch, €30,900, Nerone, Via Cusani 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4548 5673, hublot.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 132

5. Clarks Originals desert boots, €140, Clarks, Galleria de Cristoforis 3, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 9, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7634 0118, clarks.com

PHOTOS: (2) RicHaRd GReen; (5) JOn LiddLe

LIFE IS A SMILE H A P P Y S P O R T A U T O M AT I C

Boutique Milano Via della Spiga 14 Tel. + 39 02 76394950

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When it comes to the perfect suit, Milan Fashion Week always provides inspiration. Sharp and modern tailoring paired with a crisp shirt is compulsory – add colour for a youthful touch. Here we show our pick of the best-dressed visitors to the event

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PHOTOS: EmanuElE D’angElO/lc-jOurnal.cOm

Street Style

S H O P | 43

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VO U RI

SHOP

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Street Style

PHOTOS: EmanuElE Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;angElO/lc-jOurnal.cOm

Visitors to Milan Fashion Week added playful twists to their looks this season. Our favourites included bright red Sergio Rossi heels, an eye-print on a Kenzo sweater and a Lichtenstein image worn with Prada by fashion photographer and blogger Zhanna Romashka

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S H O P | 45

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VO U RI

SHOP

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Shop Window

THE PRADA PROJECT Just over 100 years ago Mario Prada, the founder of the famed Italian fashion house, opened his frst shop in Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. To mark this centenary Prada is updating its historic store: the architecture and interior are worth a visit in their own right as the façade, chequered foor and chandeliers perfectly refect the galleria’s neo-classical style. A new men’s boutique has Save up to 15.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 132

opened on the ground foor and further phases of redevelopment are planned across the sevenstorey building. The inner courtyard will be restored and a new restaurant will be located on the mezzanine level while the upper foors will be dedicated to the Fondazione Prada, a stateof-the-art exhibition space. df Prada, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 63-65, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7740 876979, prada.com * for map go to page 104

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GOLDEN TOUCH A love for fashion and art led to the creation of Golden Goose Deluxe Brand in 2000. Founders Alessandro Gallo and Francesca Rinaldo combine contemporary styles and fts with traditional Italian techniques to make beautiful shoes, all of which are produced in Venice, and a range of stylish clothing. The recently opened store on Via Ponte Vetero, the brand’s frst, stocks shoes for men, women and children. The capsule collection Haus/ GGDB, a sporty lifestyle range inspired by urban design, can also be found in the shop. Form and function work together in perfect harmony here; look out for the sturdy yet stylish ankle boots. hl Golden Goose Deluxe Brand, Via Ponte Vetero 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8688 2080, goldengoosedeluxebrand.com

AMAZING GREYS From pewter to silver to charcoal, Brioni’s latest collection is proof that grey is anything but boring. Creative director Brendan Mullane has taken the art and architecture of Rome, Brioni’s home town, as the starting point for a sleek and fashion-forward menswear collection, using a diverse range of infuences including the Pantheon and the Vatican museums. Graphic lines and structured layers have been incorporated into Brioni’s aesthetic: classic suits get a contemporary twist with subtle patterns and slim cuts while a collaboration with Fredrikson Stallard has resulted in accessories including a yellow-gold tie pin and cufinks which are perfect against crisp white shirts. hl Brioni, Via Gesù 2-4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 0086, brioni.com * for map go to page 112 Save up to 15.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 132

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In brief:

SHOP THE WORLD

— Multi-brand concept store Brian & Barry reopens its doors on Via Durini this spring with 12 floors of clothing for men and for women, interiors, cosmetics, jewellery and a restaurant.

FABULOUS FENDI Founded in Rome in 1925, Fendi is now one of Italy’s biggest luxury labels and, under the guidance of artistic director Karl Lagerfeld, continues to push fashion boundaries. There is no better place to browse the collection than in Fendi’s stunning fagship store. This season’s line is light and full of colour, with laser-cut leather pieces providing an example of the craftsmanship that Fendi is known for across the world. irs Fendi, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1617, fendi.com * for map go to page 114 Save up to 15.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 132

Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trips. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store, step-by-step, from your current location and can also be downloaded for offline use. If you’re looking for something specific, or a particular brand, use our search option to locate it – you can even create your own itinerary. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com

Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

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TOP OF THE GLASS Finnish design brand Iittala, known for its stunning glasswork and unique homewares, has just opened its frst showroom and shop in Italy, on the prestigious Corso Monforte. Spread over three foors, the space contains an extensive

showroom featuring the full Iittala collection as well as a shop on the ground foor where visitors can pick up the latest products. The elegance and innovation of the designs available are wonderfully suited to Italy’s style capital. hl Iittala, Corso Monforte 19, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7602 2367, iittala.com * for map go to page 108

MIDSUMMER NIGHT’S DREAM Antonio Marras, the Sardinian designer who creates distinctive romantic pieces, has presented a whimsical collection for spring/ summer. Marras has taken a quietly moody approach to this season’s foral trend through the use of dusky pinks and greys. Those who are fans of the brand will appreciate the layers of lace printed with polka dots as well as the rufe details which combine for a charming fairy-tale look. The collection, which has been inspired by the sculptures of American artist Kathy Ruttenberg, has a hand-painted fnish. Take centre stage in a foor-length dress perfect for high-summer garden parties. df Nonostantemarras, Via Cola di Rienzo 8, 20144 Milan, +39 02 7628 0991, antoniomarras.it Save up to 15.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 132

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TIME TRAVEL Created specifcally with frequent travellers in mind, the Montblanc TimeWalker WorldTime Hemispheres watches are a necessity for globetrotters. They simultaneously display the time in all of the world’s 24 time zones, while the local time wherever the wearer is located is shown by the hands. The names of 24 cities, representing the 24 time zones, are written around the dial and a 24-hour disc indicates the hours at each location. The watch is available in a northern and a southern hemisphere version, each bearing the names of the cities situated in that hemisphere, and shows a map of the earth with the North or South Pole as its centre. Serious globetrotters can rest assured that, as each version bears the other’s place names on the back of its case, the wearer will be up to date in the north, south, east and west. irs Montblanc, Via Montenapoleone 27B, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7720, montblanc.com * for map go to page 114

A WORLD OF COLOUR Founded in the 1980s, Paolo Rossello Secondhand, better known as Parosh, gives a wonderful new life to fabrics and items which might otherwise be discarded. The creative team, headed by Rossello, is committed to reinvention and innovation. Unloved clothes and materials are constantly reimagined and upgraded in the vibrant workshops. Rufed Save up to 15.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 132

silks, dyed cashmere and opaque sequins are just a few of the luxury touches found in the womenswear collection. The white interior of the boutique is a blank canvas against which the clothes’ extravagant colours can be in the spotlight. hl Parosh, Via Santo Spirito 14, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 5801, parosh.it * for map go to page 112

S/S 2014 SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM

GALLERIA S. CARLO 6 ANG. CORSO EUROPA CORSO VERCELLI 27

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BRIGHT DELIGHTS

PHOTO: LeO TOrri

M Missoni, the younger and more playful line from Missoni, retains the exquisite knits and colours of the main brand and isn’t for the faint of heart. These are eye-catching, head-turning clothes, awash with colour and bursting with prints and textures. The latest collection is full of bold African infuences and features geometric and organic designs along with trompe l’oeils. The Milan store is a neutral space designed to let the collection shine. In among the rails of rainbow brights you’ll also fnd M Missoni’s stunning accessories, including woven handbags and party-perfect stilettos. hl M Missoni, Corso Venezia 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3651 0974, m-missoni.com * for map go to page 108

HOORAY FOR HERMÈS Fans of Hermès will be glad to hear that the French fashion house has opened a new store on Milan’s luxurious Via Montenapoleone. Hermès frst came to Milan in 1987 and the new large, modern shop ofers a more extensive range than ever before. The ground foor houses fragrances, silk, menswear and accessories while upstairs visitors can browse Save up to 15.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 132

jewellery, watches, womenswear and accessories as well as homeware and equestrian goods. The store also exhibits paintings and photographs from the Hermès collection of artwork. This is a beautiful setting for a brand that is committed to making beautiful things. hl Hermès, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3495, hermes.com * for map go to page 114

MILANO CORSO MATTEOTTI 22

+39 02 76000753

LA RINASCENTE DUOMO ESCADA.COM

+39 02 47988130

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TIME FOR TEA Kusmi Tea has opened its frst Italian store in Milan’s Brera district which is popular with the city’s artistic and creative crowd. The bright and modern boutique stocks all of Kusmi Tea’s products including the popular Detox, Boost and Euphoria blends. Stock up on old favourites and take part in one of the daily tea-tasting sessions to discover new favours. irs Kusmi Tea, Via Fiori Chiari 24, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8909 3956, kusmitea.com

SWEET TREATS Guido Gobino is considered to be one of the world’s leading artisanal chocolatiers and a trip to the Milan boutique is a must for anyone with a sweet tooth. The family-run business has been producing confectionery for over 50 years and is widely known for its delicious Giandujotto and Gianduja spreads, made according to traditional recipes from Turin. Look out for the Cremini range which includes dark chocolate with sea salt and Ligurian extra virgin olive oil. irs Guido Gobino, Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi 39, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8909 6601, guidogobino.it

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SHOP RECOMMENDS… SALONE DEL MOBILE

RISING STARS

In brief:

Not content with being one of the biggest names in fashion, Italian design house Dolce & Gabbana is also set on lending a helping hand to young designers. In 2010, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana opened Spiga2, their frst multi-brand boutique, which is dedicated to new designers. The venture has been so successful that a second location, Piave 37, has now opened. The store is packed with ready-towear clothing and accessories from some of the coolest names on the scene. Discover Barbara Casasola, a Brazilian designer who debuted at Milan Fashion Week, or indulge in modern headwear from Italian brand Super Duper. Also worth a look is the collection from House of Holland, a London label which is a favourite every season. hl Piave 37, Viale Piave 37, 20129 Milan, +39 02 2951 1408, dolcegabbana.com

— A gelato from Grom is a tasty way to cool down in the Milanese sun. Visit Grom’s new store on Piazza Gae Aulenti -our top tip is chocolate gelato with raspberry sorbet. Delicious.

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The event is divided into Classic, Modern and Design sectors and also includes Where Architects Live. Taking place in pavilion 9, it comprises eight rooms where eight leading contemporary architects showcase their visions of the domestic space. This multimedia exhibition takes viewers through the architects’ own homes, illustrating what is involved in interior design and exploring the art of living. Other events held alongside Salone del Mobile are the International Furnishing Accessories Exhibition, SaloneSatellite (dedicated to young creativity) and FTK – Technology for the Kitchen. The International Bathroom Exhibition presents a large range of quality goods from accessories to hydro-massage tubs with particular emphasis on marble, onyx, slate and natural stone coverings, while EuroCucina is the benchmark international event in this sector, with an impressive range of classic through to modern and designer kitchens. cosmit.it

PHOTO: SaVeriO LOmBardi VaLLauri cOurTeSy cOSmiT SPa

PHOTO: VicTOr BOykO/GeTTy imaGeS FOr PiaVe 37

Salone del Mobile, the international home furnishing event, runs in Milan from 8 – 13 April. About 2,500 of the design industry’s most dynamic and creative companies from around the world will bring together the best products for your home

62 | N E W S

In Store: Roberto Botticelli Roberto Botticelli talks about his store on Via della Spiga

‘We decided to open the store in Via della Spiga eight years ago as it’s one of the most important and fashionable areas in Milan. My stores are carefully designed to excite customers and all Botticelli boutiques are presented as works of art. Our collections have evolved over the years in terms of creativity and also because they are aimed at diferent markets. What has not changed is the skill and attention at all stages of the production of each Save up to 15.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 132

shoe. Craftsmanship is the driving value of the brand. There are three people working in this store who can guide you through our current collection. You’ll see that snakeskin is a key material for womenswear this season.’ Roberto Botticelli, Via della Spiga 42, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 6770, robertobotticelli.it * for map go to page 116

WE ARE CONNECTED #DiEsElREbOOT DiEsEl PlANET sTORE MilANO Piazza san babila 1/3

Above: Moschino spring/summer 2014

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Milan has embraced the fun side of fashion this season, Harriet Quick discovers

PHOTO: Andre’ LucAT/SGP

Let there Be Light

Fresh, bright, bold and bursting with technicolour – at Milan Fashion Week, designers turned the corner and moved away from the pure and clean minimalist lines of winter to embrace a foot-loose, sunny mood for spring/summer 2014 that’s as balmy as a midsummer breeze. Italian designers were at their best, embracing all the carefree airs of Mediterranean life and fusing it with outstanding artisan workmanship and simple, light-as-a-feather fabrics. Milan has always been known for sultry, after-dark, pouting glamour and, while that was still evident, lightness, fun, humour and vibrancy erupted down the Milan catwalks. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are brilliant tour guides to Italy and every season they take us on a journey through history and culture, reprising prints, motifs, 134 / 148

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Milanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new mood is about joy and exuberance

myths and legends along the way. They unearthed Greek and Roman ruins in Sicily, along with old coins and native fowers for their latest collection. Sepia images of temples and amphitheatres were cast on swingy hem minidress shapes, coins were blown up large to create buckle belts and hair jewellery, while delicate almond tree blossom in 3D relief emerged from the prettiest of white organza cocktail styles with slender waists and bell-shaped sleeves. These pieces are ideal for a romantic date, a wedding (even for the bride), or when foating across the Med in a yacht. Milanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new mood is about joy and exuberance, as Moschino exemplifed when it celebrated its 30th birthday with an uplifting performance from 1970s disco queen Gloria Gaynor. Of course, this is the label thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no stranger to high jinks and humour, but the diference this season is that the happy mood is infectious. Moschino reached into the archives and sent dancing models on to the catwalk in Italian fag motif vests, dresses with collars made from stufed teddy bears and paper-bag dresses. They were also attired Above (both): Moschino spring/summer 2014

PHOTO: SGP

PHOTO: FEudi E GuAinEri

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as vampish nuns and beaming mammas collecting the weekly food shopping in jolly polka dots. Karl Lagerfeld might be a man who inhabits a world of black and white, but his spring ofering at Fendi burst with glorious, ravishing technicolour. Geometric layers over dresses foated and lifted as the models walked, in a mouthwatering rainbow palette of scarlet fading to blush, cobalt and poison green. This vivid punch of colour was also evident at Max Mara, which is a label more known for soft, quiet refnement. Alongside a series of mushroom-shaded dresses came shifts and gowns in coral, cerulean, claret, poppy red and buttercup. Gucci is all about decadence and Frida Giannini played to form with art nouveauinspired prints on slip dresses, and see-through mesh sweatshirts that would happily slip over a bikini on deck. But alongside her sensual aesthetics there was a magpie element featuring Above (from lef): Max Mara; Emilio Pucci; Prada. All spring/summer 2014

giuseppe zanotti design

printemps-ĂŠtĂŠ 2014

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Splashy, shiny, bold, bright and bursting with joy, Milan’s bright side is finally showing

Above (from lef): Fendi; Gucci. Both spring/summer 2014

iridescent slivers of dragonfy-wing green and shimmering copper. Peter Dundas looked to martial arts and Wonder Woman with his silk bomber suits, mesh leather running shorts and embellished minis and tees for Emilio Pucci (no wonder Rita Ora and Rihanna are fans). Lace-up booties came in high-shine metallic and, on one dress, there were rainbow-striped sequins. Milan is relaxing in its approach to women’s silhouettes too. Cue cotton Thai-style trousers, oversized and belted, worn with of-the-shoulder tops and platform surf fip fops, the cult shoe of the season. Sarong skirts made a comeback and they could look great when paired with belted jackets. Prada also dabbled with ideas for the modern woman, with child-like naïve prints in shades of crayon greens, yellows and pinks. Splashy, shiny, bold, bright and bursting with joy, Milan’s bright side is fnally showing dolcegabbana.com, moschino.com, fendi.com, gucci.com, emiliopucci.com, prada.com

|F 72 | FE E AT AT U UR RE ES S

HEADLINE HEAD

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

FAshion Force 136 / 888 888 150

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Mario Boselli, of Camera Nazionale ma della Above: Above: Englishpresident caption xxxxx qui ofciducius nitModa fuga. Italiana Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi quis cum facil

S H O P | 73

Mario Boselli, the man behind Milan Fashion Week, gives a rare interview to SHOP’s Stephen Doig

mid the hubbub and glamour of Milan Fashion Week it’s easy to forget about the vital cogs in the machine, the people who are working furiously behind the scenes to maintain the city’s reputation as a peerless fashion leader. At the heart is Mario Boselli, president of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana – the Italian fashion chamber – the organisation responsible for Milan Fashion Week and for nurturing the Italian fashion industry. Some of the most important names in fashion are among its members, including Versace, Valentino, Fendi and Cavalli. In addition, Milan Fashion Week’s executive

board boasts Prada’s CEO Patrizio Bertelli, Diesel founder Renzo Rosso and Diego Della Valle, president and CEO of Tod’s. Since 1999, Boselli has overseen every facet of Milan Fashion Week, including the promotion of new talent and the provision of support to established labels. As you would expect, Boselli is stylish and immaculately attired; he is also a model of calm and control. ‘Recently, Milan’s success can be attributed to the presence of young designers, to international names in fashion who have been scheduled to take part in events, and also to a new spirit of co-operation between Milan and fashion institutions,’ he says.

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The focus on young designers was a major story at Milan Fashion Week spring/summer 2014, thanks to initiatives set up by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana to showcase the country’s talent. One example was when young designers were invited to show their collections in the Hall of Caryatids in the Royal Palace. By the end of the week, two emerging designers, Fausto Puglisi and Stella Jean, had been featured in news outlets from New York to London. Boselli says that his organisation is dedicated to young creativity and mentions up-and-coming designers Andrea Incontri, Angelos Bratis, Uma Wang and Marco de Vincenzo. As well as organising Milan Fashion Week and encouraging new talent, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana works year round to support and promote Italian fashion. The organisation upholds the rich history of Italian fashion heritage, balancing the innovations of the future while respecting the past. ‘Ours is a tradition that goes back centuries,’ says Boselli.

Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana works year round to support and promote Italian fashion

Above (from lef): Francesca Liberatore from Nude Initiative ; Mauro Gasperi from Nude Initiative. Both spring/summer 2014

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 19 20121 MILANO TEL: +39 02 76003697 M O N D AY - S A T U R D AY 1 0 A M - 7 P M S H O P AT T E S T O N I . C O M

PHOTO: FeuDi e Guaineri

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Fashion in Italy is no afterthought; it’s a huge sector of the economy and is an important source of employment. ‘The country’s history is epitomised by excellent style. Over the past 50 years, Italy has developed a tremendous ability to produce fashion thanks to our textile and clothing industry. Today, there are 70,000 companies and 650,000 workers in the industry.’ Of course, in recent years other fashion centres across the world have attempted to challenge Milan’s crown, but the fact remains that Milan Fashion Week boasts some of the most powerful, most luxurious and most agenda-setting collections in the world. ‘Milan as a city is appreciated by an international audience,’ says Boselli. ‘In terms of size, we can’t compare to London, Paris or New York, but the city is a showcase for fashion and the feedback we got last season from the most prestigious names in the industry proved that.’ In the thriving and fast-paced international fashion arena, Italian fashion goods still hold a great deal of cachet. ‘We help small and medium-sized fashion brands to forge into

foreign markets,’ says Boselli. ‘The main factors that have fostered the success of the Made in Italy label are creativity and technology; when they are combined, there’s a special alchemy. Traditions in the way we work, linked to our history and techniques, mean that Italy produces pieces that are beautiful and elegant, upscale and wearable’ cameramoda.it

Above (from top): Dolce & Gabbana spring/summer 2014 at Milan Fashion Week; Via Mercanti and Palazzo Giureconsulti during the Milano Moda Donna event

Superb craftsmanship coupled with impeccable design: no wonder Italy’s fne leather accessories labels are proving such a hit with men around the world, says Ruairidh Pritchard 138 / 152

146

ALL IN THE DETAIL Above: Cellerini cuting workshop

PHOTO: © Gianni CeCCanTi

The Made in Italy label has been synonymous with exceptional quality for centuries. Those in the know have always valued the traditional skills of the country’s artisans who today, more than ever, are turning their talents to producing the fnest leather accessories for men. From shoes to hats, bags to belts and wallets to luggage, Italian handcrafted leather

goods are reaching new heights of luxury. One of Italy’s success stories is Cellerini. Started by Silvano Cellerini in the early 1950s, the label began with just one sewing machine and a hide, bought with a small inheritance. A decade later Cellerini and his wife had expanded the business, creating leather handbags and luggage for some of the most

PHOTO: © GiAnni CeCCAnTi

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afuent Florentine families of the time. Now the label is headed up by the founder’s daughter Alessandra, who is keen to ensure that her parents’ dedication to peerless quality endures. Many of the working practices that went into creating Cellerini’s frst bag are still followed: all leather cutting is done entirely by hand by the label’s experienced craftspeople. The pieces are then painstakingly trimmed by hand before being sewn together, a process which has been assisted by the advancements in manufacturing technology. Similarly, Cellerini continues to provide the level of personalisation that it ofered more than half a century ago. Thanks to a vast choice of calfskins, linings, threads and hardware, customers can have Cellerini create their very own bespoke Italian leather masterpiece. Another family-owned atelier with a claim to the title of ‘Italy’s fnest’ is Santoni, which has been creating some of the best handmade shoes to come out of Milan since it was set

up in 1975 by Andrea Santoni. Over the decades, the label – now helmed by a second generation of Santonis – has expanded to become one of the country’s largest homegrown shoemakers, while keeping its key values of quality, passion for detail and working exclusively by hand intact. The brand’s two key pillars – innovation and tradition – still provide a solid foundation

Above (from top): Alessandra Cellerini in the Cellerini workshop; Cellerini men’s briefcase

TO M M Y H I L F I G E R S TO R E P I A Z Z A O B E R DA N 2 /A MILANO

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for its work. These days Santoni combines traditional expert hand craftsmanship with pioneering production techniques to ensure that every item of footwear fts as perfectly as possible, whether it’s a brogue or a Chelsea boot. A great deal of efort goes into sourcing the most sought-after hides and fabrics to ensure that each style is comfortable, practical and durable as well as stylish. Nowhere is this more evident than in the brand’s latest Limited Edition Collection, whose designs and materials are overseen by Andrea Santoni himself. From the frst cut of the carefully selected leather to the fnal fre-branding with the Santoni mark, each step is done by hand, and there is no time limit for the creation

Above: Santoni crafsmanship

of a single pair of shoes. Considering that one leather-tinting phase can require over 15 applications of colour, this proves that craftsmanship remains at the forefront of Santoni’s production. However, it isn’t just new Italian products that are fnding favour with well-heeled men; vintage and restored antique leather goods are becoming more popular among those looking to invest in some beautiful Italian leather. Bernardini in Milan is a treasure trove of lovingly restored and rare antique pieces. The store was founded by Max Bernardini in 1996, who was inspired by his father’s work in importing fne antiques for some of Italy’s wealthiest families.

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For the modern man, Italian leather accessories are longlasting investments in style

The inviting emporium, which even has its own full-time bartender, is home to an eclectic collection of rare and expertly sourced goods, ranging from vintage travel trunks, suitcases and vanity boxes from the likes of Prada and Gucci, many of them made to order for wealthy European explorers during the frst expeditions to Africa in the early 20th century. The diversity and desirability of the stock is as clear an illustration as any of Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

long history of making high-quality leather goods. For the modern man, Italian leather accessories are long-lasting investments in style; they also ofer an intriguing insight into the rich tradition of expert craftsmanship and made-tomeasure personalisation that have long been the signature of a truly well-dressed man and a sign of Italian dedication to true luxury cellerini.it, santonishoes.com, bernardinimilano.it

Above (from top): both Santoni spring/summer 2014; Giuseppe Santoni photographed at the Santoni Milan store with Italian actors Pierfrancesco Favino and Beppe Fiorello, and French actress Juliete Binoche

86 | E X P E R I E N C E

Table Talk Milan’s fnest restaurants combine innovative cuisine with efortlessly stylish interiors to create a unique dining experience. Verity Hogan is impressed by the creative fair displayed by a selection of the very best

Milan’s diverse cuisine refects the city’s cosmopolitan character; no other Italian city boasts such a high concentration of diferent dining options, ranging from Moroccan eateries to asian noodle bars and Irish gastro-pubs. The city’s Italian restaurants build their menus on tradition but are not afraid to embrace innovation, with a host of experimental chefs taking over in many of Milan’s fnest kitchens. This culinary talent is combined with restaurant interiors that refect Milan’s style heritage; expect wellthought-out furnishings, complementary colour schemes and unique features. globalblue.com

S H O P | 87

PHOTO: AnTOny FAvAzzA

U BarBa a relaxed, informal eatery designed for group diners, U Barba is a welcome departure from Milanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more staid establishments. The interior is large and starkly decorated with vintage furnishings and reclaimed wood accents while an understated approach also applies to the menu of classic Genoese dishes. Located in the lively Porta romona district, the restaurant is equally vibrant; choose from a menu that includes stufed mussels, fsh soup and wild boar with potato cakes before taking on the competition on the adjacent bocce court. U Barba, Via Decembrio 33, 20137 Milan, +39 02 4548 7032, ubarba.it

PHOTO: DaviDe OlDani

88 | E X P E R I E N C E

D’O Chef Davide Oldani’s interpretation of traditional Lombard cuisine is well worth the trip to his restaurant’s suburban village location. Seasonal ingredients are used in deceptively simple dishes that are accessible to all and are universally delicious. The only fxed dish on the menu is a serving of globalblue.com

cipolla caramellata: these caramelised onions have an intriguing balance of sweet and savoury favours and a mix of textures. The restaurant’s dining room refects the strippedback aesthetic of the cuisine, and is ideally suited to a leisurely lunch or an evening meal. D’O, Via Magenta 18, San Pietro all’Olmo, Cornaredo, 20010 Milan, +39 02 936 2209, cucinapop.do

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sadlEr

PHOTO: MariO Zanaria

With a series of intimate dining rooms as exquisitely decorated as chef claudio sadler’s intricately presented cuisine, sadler restaurant is a delight to see and to eat in. sadler earned his two Michelin stars thanks to his creative

approach to cuisine, and this is especially evident on his Market menu, inspired by seasonal cuisine; Barbary duck breast with candied apricots, chickpeas and a reduction of nero d’avola is a typical dish. Sadler, Via ascanio sforza 77, 20141 Milan, +39 02 5810 4451, sadler.it

T russa r di a l l a sca l a italian fashion label Trussardi is known for its refned elegance, and its eponymous restaurant refects this by displaying an inherent sense of style. Warm gold tones combined with rich wood and leather detailing globalblue.com

characterise the space while chef luigi Taglienti’s cuisine focuses on distinct, easily recognisable favours. Expect to fnd raw sea bream, sweet and sour cabbage, and ginger and safron jelly on the varied menu. Trussardi alla Scala, Piazza della scala 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8068 8201, trussardiallascala.com

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A l M e rc At o d e l P e s c e seafood connoisseurs will be spoilt for choice at Al Mercato de Pesce. set just outside the city centre, the restaurant ofers dishes that make the most of fresh seafoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural favours. the dining room dĂŠcor has a maritime theme with a blue and white colour scheme, and several large graphics depict freshwater fsh swimming across the walls globalblue.com

and ceiling. chef Manuel Poli regularly incorporates seasonal ingredients in his menu; typical dishes might include creamy lobster risotto, fllet of sea bass on a bed of asparagus, and tuna tartare with crispy fennel and chicory. Al Mercato del Pesce, Via sammartini Giovanni Battista 70, 20125 Milan, +39 02 669 3384, mercatodelpesce.eu

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Stay in Style The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most up-and-coming city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa facilities ofering stateof-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

K+K Hotel Maria tHereSia The urbane and intimate K+K Hotel Maria Theresia is ideally located in the peaceful yet bohemian Spittelberg district of central Vienna. The hotel’s convenient location means all the city’s main attractions are within walking distance and the famous MuseumsQuartier globalblue.com

(museum district) is almost on the hotel’s doorstep. Highly personalised service and a distinguished ambience set the hotel apart from others of an equal calibre; enjoy the exquisite breakfast bufet with a glass of Champagne or indulge in the wellness area after a long day of sightseeing. K+K Hotel Maria Theresia, Kirchberggasse 6, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 52123, kkhotels.com

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Hotel Vier JaHreSzeiten KeMpinSKi Built at the request of King Maximilian II, the prestigious Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski has been welcoming guests since 1858. Its location on one of the world’s most elegant boulevards has long attracted a highly globalblue.com

distinguished clientele, from a variety of acclaimed felds. The hotel’s high standards of service are unrivalled, while the diferent décor in each of its rooms gives the hotel unique charm. Be sure to dine at the hotel’s restaurant, Vue Maximilian, with its menu of delicious regional specialities. Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski, Maximilianstrasse 17, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2125 2799, kempinski.com

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25Hours Hotel Hafencity Appropriately for its location in Hamburg’s recently redeveloped harbour district, the 25Hours Hafencity hotel incorporates materials from the shipbuilding industry throughout its nautically themed interior. Each room takes inspiration from the voyages of one sailor, real or fctional, and complements globalblue.com

its warm colour scheme, ship’s ladder and trunk with artefacts related to the tale. Be sure to explore the hotel’s exemplary shared facilities; acclaimed restaurant Heimat is known for using high-quality local ingredients while the Harbour Sauna ofers relaxation and panoramic harbour views. 25Hours Hotel Hafencity, Überseeallee 5, 20457 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 2577 77255, 25hours-hotels.com

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OMEN

The Thief Art lovers will fnd much to engage their senses at the eclectic Thief hotel. Set in one of Oslo’s most creative districts, the hotel is close to the city’s fnest restaurants, bars and art galleries, while also ofering its own impressive collection of contemporary art. Curated by Sune Nordgren, this includes pieces from Norwegian

DraycoTT hoTel The Draycott Hotel is set within three restored redbrick Edwardian homes in the heart of London’s Chelsea neighbourhood. The hotel is infused with old-world elegance and a relaxed intimacy that is instantly inviting, while a team of experienced staf is on hand to meet your every demand. Each of the hotel’s 35 rooms is globalblue.com

and international artists and can be admired throughout the hotel. Modern designer furnishings and pop art-inspired décor add to the rooms’ appeal, while the on-site restaurant, Fru K, uses fresh Norwegian produce to impressive efect. The Thief, Landgangen 1, 0252 Oslo, +47 2400 4000, thethief.com

steeped in Edwardian splendour with theatrical décor and antiques found throughout. Take advantage of the hotel’s unusual added luxuries, including complimentary tea and homemade biscuits at 4pm, Champagne at 6pm and hot chocolate at 9.30pm. Draycott Hotel, 26 Cadogan Gardens, London SW3 2RP, +44 (0)20 7730 6466, draycotthotel.com

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Guide

ILLUSTRATION: LYNDON HAYES

Navigating an unfamiliar city is never easy. Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around Milan with useful hints and insider information about what to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check out globalblue.com/milan or pick up one of our bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.

globalblue.com

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Milan Piazza San Marco

BASILICA DI SAN MARCO

P VIA

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Tourist Information

Piazza BIBLIOTECA AMBROSIANA Del Duomo VI DUOMO A SP AD P.104 AR Piazza Pio XI I

Piazza Santa Maria Beltrade

Metro

OV AN GI AN

'OR

VIA MENGONI

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Piazza Cordusio

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Corso Vittorio Emanuele II Area Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II & Via San Pietro all’Orto Piazza Scala

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rISTOrANTE crAccO

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

Restaurant

PHOTO: AleSSANDRO CASTIGlIONI

One of Milan’s most experimental chefs, carlo cracco is known for producing unusual favour combinations in his acclaimed restaurant. His risotto with black sesame and apple is highly recommended. Ristorante Cracco, Via Victor Hugo 4, 20123 Milan, +39 02 876774, ristorantecracco.it

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VIA UGO FOSCOLO

AUTOGRILL ●

CURRADO ● GRIMOLDI ● RUGGERI ●

Piazza Del Duomo

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SARTORIA ROSSI ● CIELO ● ARCHENTI ●

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VIA MENGONI

PRADA ●

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LUISA SPAGNOLI ● LEO PIZZO ●

● BORSALINO VI A ● CENTENARI AG NE ● MEJANA LL ● PIUMELLI O ● CHURCH’S V I A S ● NOLI .R A DE ● BRIC’S GO ● GUCCI ND ● GIORGIO ARMANI A DANTE CORDUSIO VUITTON ● LOUIS

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ENZO MANTOVANI ●

BABILA

● BROOKS BROTHERS

SAMSONITE ●

● PRONOVIAS

Piazza San Carlo

MAURO LEONE ● POSTCARD ● BOSE ● FOR PETS ONLY ●

PINkO Pinko has earned international acclaim for its high-quality Italian craftsmanship combined with playful designs and bright colour palettes. Its boutiques are designed with similar care and feature statement interior décor and innovative technology. Pinko, corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7634 1331, pinko.it

Department Store

TT A

PIE

VALLI ●

● BAGUTTA

SAN

CO RSO MAT TEO TTI

VIC MATIÉ ● MASCHIO ● EYE STYLE ● POMELLATO ●

VERSACE COLLECTION ●

VIA SANTA TECLA

Places Of Interest

VIA BORG OGNA

UEL

VIA SAN CLEMENTE

ORE

TO R

VIA

LL E DE

VIT

● NARA CAMICIE ● LIBERO MILANO ● GUTTERIDGE

SUPERDRY ●

TEZENIS ●

ROCCA ●

FFAE LE

La Rinascente

VIA SA N RA

SO OR

M IO E

● SISLEY

IS TO F

FOOTBALL TEAM ●

DUOMO

IA DE CR

CELIO ● V I A PAT TA ● ALCOTT ● CARPISA & OTHER STORIES ● ● FALCONERI JDC URBAN STORE ● ● INTIMISSIMI NARA CAMICE ● SOLARIS ● FURLA ●

SAN BABILA

Piazza San Babila

Piazza San Carlo

GALLER

● MONDADORI MULTICENTER MAX MARA ● ● VERGELIO MAX & CO ● Excelsior P.128 PENNYBLACK ● ● MOTIVI ● B HIP! IA I BLUES ● AR CC MARELLA ● BE VIA MARINA RINALDI ●

PA O

SAN

MARIUCCIA ●

CO RS O MATT EO TT I

VIA

CLARKS ●

VIA DURINI

AT T

T OT

● H&M MASSIMO DUTTI ● GEOX ● ● NADINE ● STROILI ORO ● OYSHO ● LUISA SPAGNOLI KIKO ● ● ILLY SWATCH ● ● MILAN MEGA STORE GOBBI 1842 ● ● MICHAEL KORS MARILENA ● ● PINKO MC KENZY ● ● DISNEY ● LIU JO ● THE HIGHLINE ● FOOT LOCKER ZARA MEN ● ● GAP TO ZARA ● ’O R ● BANANA REPUBLIC ALL CALZEDONIA ● TRO ● MANGO . P IE V. S PICA ● ● REPLAY BENETTON ● ● SEPHORA ● BERSHKA O R IS

Piazza Meda

VIA

S H O P | 105

● SANDRO FERRONE ● MARCO ● PAM

Piazza San Babila

G U I D E | 107

Lindarico Those looking to update their wardrobe with classic pieces will be spoilt for choice by the selection on ofer at Lindaricoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Milan boutique. one of italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular luxury womenswear labels,

MuSeo BagaTTi VaLSecchi The Museo Bagatti Valsecchi provides visitors with a unique insight into the past. The beautifully decorated house refects the enthusiasm of brothers Fausto and giuseppe Bagatti Valsecchi who spent the 1880s painstakingly renovating their home in the fashionable neo-renaissance style. The attention to detail is exceptional with

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the company is known for using the fnest materials to produce timeless collections. For spring/summer 2014, expect to see classic interpretations of current trends, created using natural materials. Lindarico, Via Senato 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3676 4080, lindarico.com

modern conveniences cleverly concealed within the design while the paintings and decorative items from the 15th and 16th centuries are reminiscent of a princely Lombard home. There is much to admire: look out for the tapestries, bronzes, wall friezes and impressive freplaces. Museo Bagatti Valsecchi, Via gesĂš 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6132, museobagattivalsecchi.org

108 | G U I D E

Piazza San Babila Area Piazza San Babila, Corso Matteotti, Via Bigli, Corso Venezia & Corso Europa O SS

PE OS

TO NA

NA PO LE ON E M ON TE

IA N

● SUITSU PPLY

O N FO

● VIONN ET

San Babila

● GUESS ● EDDY MONETTI

OVS INDUSTRY ● BOGGI ●

VIA BORGOG NA

● BRIAN & BARRY NORTH SAILS ● ● ADIDAS ORIGINALS ● ● JUVENTUS GALLO

STONE FLY ●

BOGGI ●

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Metro

Bar

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D RO NT

LE M MA RZ IA VIA

● MHWAY

AR CO

● NATURINO

● DIMENSIONE DANZA

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V IA

● SILVIA VA LE RIO

MHWAY ● ● HSL

● B&B ITALIA

V IS

RIN

BERETTA ●

L A RGO COR SIA DEI SERVI

● MARGHERITA

VIA

AR I VI A PATT

JH 1912 ●

DEL MARE ●

I DI

VIA

● CASSINA

NE U

● LIBERO MILANO ● NATUZZI

BELLORA ●

AVIREX ●

BERT

CAMOMILLA ● TRU TRUSSARDI ●

RV A

CO R SO M

SAN BABILA

EDDY MONETTI ● SALMOIRAGHI VIGANÒ ● ● FLORSHEIM ● MORESCHI ● MOMO DESIGN ● BROSWAY ● NESPRESSO ● BOGGI ● MAZZOLARI ● BALDININI TREND ● BAGATT ● MILANO OFFICIAL STORE ● VANNUCCI ● DIESEL Piazza

Piazza San Carlo VODAFONE ●

IITTAL A ● FLOS ●

’O R ALL

IO E

P.52

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● ESCADA ● JUST CAVALLI

TRO

● TOMBOLINI

P IE

A TT

SAN

PA O

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V IA

SAN

● UNIFOR ● RODO ● MORONI GOMMA

CO RS O MATT

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BOSS STORE ● VITTORIO MARCHESI ●

MAZZOLARI ● E TIMBERLAND ● ON SPALLANZANI ● ALDO BRUÈ ● HARMONT & BLAINE ●

Sant’ambroeus Bar

VIA

● BORBONESE ● FINART ● LO SCARABEO D’ORO

Piazza Meda

VIA

ATOS LOMBARDINI ● BOTTARELLI CARTOLERIA ● FRANKIE MORELLO ● PIKENZ ● SPAZIO FORNASETTI ● JECKERSON ● GRAVATI ● ALVIERO MARTINI ●

VER R

V I A P.

A DODO ● VI FABBRICA PELLETTERIE MILANO●

● ASPESI

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● TATRAS

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ARIN

O NT

M PA GN M CUL A ● OS TI CA ● O M R IM A P ● N R SA PA V I L L V IA NA R E AE NDO REN AH ● RO M CO ● S U ● W ES VI OLE ZI ● T W VIE S ● O L L A IV O NNE M D P.1 Y I CA AN ● ST 07 YL OT L Z I ● E TIC A ● L I M A B AG A ● ND D S AR INA ● IC ● O ● MA ● ● MIL A L E LI A L R DO GH S ND PA L U O N I LC T T CHÖ ’A ● C DO IA E& D NT IM N VA N O SA GA OL E A N I V ● FL BB CE & A PADOV ● E’DE AV A N G IO A B AB ● STONE ISLAN D CA AR BA NE ST B NA RO G NER BU EL IER ● ● WOLFO RD HE IAR O G RBE L AN E ● P.110 ● WHO’S WHO D NR IN IA RR I ● Y I J RD Y DO ● GIANN A MELIA NI CO U N I N ● LC T T IO I ● ● GAGÀ MILAN O E& CL ON R ● AU GA ● NAVIG ARE ’S DI BB ● O ● MEC & GREGO RY’S A CA ATION LE C NA ● NOMIN ● GR ST OS ● EMPRE SA IM AN ● OL I ● NE EDIZIO A ULTIM ● PI DI BR N ● CHRIS TOFLE A C P R KO ● CI A D ● AL A P Z IN ● ● ALBER TO GUARD IANI ER I ● ● PAOLO TONAL I O HO ZAR ● ● RED VALEN TINO M A ● MCS E● P.56 ● M MISSO NI RT E M VIA

Featured In This Issue

110 | G U I D E

Who’s Who Boasting one of the most striking interiors in Milan, Who’s Who challenges preconceptions of Italian elegance with a modern showcase of vibrant fashion pieces. The store is dominated by giant human sculptures, inspired by Leonardo da Vinci’s anatomical sketches, which reach across

FedeLI since producing its frst knitted hat in 1934, Fedeli has become known for striking the perfect balance between luxury and comfort. Its luxurious cashmere range now includes soft scarves, jumpers and outerwear, for men and women, while the company’s commitment to quality means every purchase is sure to become a trusted wardrobe staple. Fedeli’s Milan boutique exudes elegance with a sophisticated colour scheme, opulent chandeliers and displays flled with touchable, soft items. Fedeli, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 7775, fedelicashmere.com

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rails flled with the label’s latest collections. A scattered tiled walkway draws visitors in, and the diverse clothing collections are expertly displayed against a monochrome colour scheme. Who’s Who, Corso Venezia 8, 20122 Milan, +39 02 2901 3083, whoswhobrand.com

112 | G U I D E

Montenapoleone Area

Via Sant’Andrea, Via Pietro Verri & Piazza Meda, Via Gesù, Via Borgospesso & Via Santo Spirito ZO

TAVECCHI ● I PINCO PALLINO BABY ● SILVANO LATTANZI ●

A VI

WALTER PADOVANI BALENCIAGA ● ● ANTIQUARIO P.128 MAURO GRIFONI ● ● DAAD DANTONE ● CARLO TIVIOLI ANTIQUARIATO BENSI ● O I T ● SUBERT GIOIELLI DI SANTO SPIRITO 13 ● SÙ I R ● DUVETICA GE GIORGIO JANEKE ● A SP VI GIANVITO ROSSI ● O BALLIN ● NT CHANTECLER ● S A ● DANIELE ALESSANDRINI A ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE STELLA I V MCCARTNEY ● ● PAROSH P.54 ● VHERNIER VI A ● CORTO MOLTEDO B

VERSACE HOME ●

● HORA ● SCHREIBER ● INBORGOSPESSO 18 ● STILLINI ● GALLUCCI

YOUNG VERSACE ●

● GALLERIA SILVA ● TOP TIME MUSA

SÙ

O SS

V IA

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E Z IA

TT A

COR SO MAT TEO

Piazza Meda

O TR

T ’A

BRIONI ● MIMÌ ● HUSKY ● AL GINGILLO ● ACQUA DI PARMA ●

TTI

CO RS O MO

NF OR TE

SAN BABILA

Piazza San Carlo

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Metro

P.50

MUSEO BAGATTI VALSECCHI

VIA

Y AV I UT ER N RL ND O BE AL SA IN N ● ● N IO JIL CH A A T ● OS STI AD NA M ● E PR T BA ● N UM EN U ● SE AN ST I ● UR EL CO ZM L A IU M AN IT ● T ● E M IN CH R W IE ● T ● IS SA TI V IR AR TA OT VI ● ● R CI TU ER NE U S NA PA GE VE AG NN ● RO GA GNO AB RE BA VI ● E A SA ● NI ’S ● TT CE IA CH R E ● BO UR OM I ● DO NI CH I H ER ● ● SE SO LS A N E U T 19 1 1 ● IS OU M PE M E EL AL NO IH AR ● AR N ● K O N I D E LI & M RL DI SA R ES ● UE EO EF I ● E CA AR OR L CQ TO LE AL ● S M B ’O R U O ALL US P O AN C I ER SQ HO I ● TRO TR P IE E C PA N A ● V CC N D SAN O MY SA D GU EXA V IA TE ID ● JIM CA AL GU ON A ● ● ER M IS ● A P RY ● ND INA SA RT D2 VI 4 BER UMI ● I 1 R F JIL MA RE P.1 B U R O I A N D ● ● A L A QU P UC N D 8 ● RO CR MO DS FOR 189 ● H ET ● C OX R I O SO ● RI ● I ES N LA HN ● PR IA ● J O GLI I ES AR FO N M AB GU VI JO ● IL R EU ● AT M I ● OC TU RD OV LO PR FO O ● AO T M NP N SA EN TO EG I ● VIA AG LL AL N TO CA I● DI IN O N I CI FI LD NI BA Y● NT ● LA E V EL E T T ICO O O N ICO NT Y ● P U AV I B O L O C AZZ NI ● V R A ELL A ST CA

P.107

OS RG

MONTENAPOLEONE

TO NA

CAIATI FINE ARTS ● BARBA ● ORIENTAL ART RENZO FRESCHI ● ROSALBA ● PAOLO PECORA ● KITON ● SILVANO LATTANZI ● BARRETT ● TINCATI ● SÙ DORIANI CASHMERE ● GE ZILLI ● IA

M A

Piazza Croce Rossa

VIA

I PI

E TÀ

● BORGOSPESSO 6 ● SILBERNAGL VOLKER

Piazza San Babila

Place Of Interest

RIM

My little

Mystery!

MEISSEN庐 ItalIa, Via MonteNapoleone 3, Milano 路 www.meissen.it 路 tel: +39 02 89 42 37 25

114 | G U I D E

VI A SE TO NA

V IA

R IN

A A

MONTENAPOLEONE

O NT

Piazza Croce Rossa

EG IL DO V L Z E SE M O O RO VI EG RT U RG NT P ER NA ● IO BL IAN RE ● RO AN A ● ● VI SS C ● ● ● B A MA I● ● C R NZ ● P O UN ON ● G I N KR N O I E M ● R E ● G O L OX O L I A AG NI LI GR IUS EX IF EP ● FE P SA E ZA ● LV V I A VA NO AT B O LE TT O RGO RE NT ID SP ES IN FE ES O R R SO IG N AG AM O

Via Montenapoleone

TI ET RR I FE A CC Ù A RT R A N A GE S M BE HO IN UBI IA L ● M V R A U R OR H ● C R U ● D E N M AT I N ● ● L A RIA W L CO ● Y CE US GA ● ● MA RK TO O F M E B LU N ● R A ● ● IE SH L O A GA A 6 A RT L & GE SC HO R Z ● A N RE P.5 O C U O A T TI ● ND ● PA O R I SF L A SO I ● T ’A I S C O L ● D C È E AS ER AN M I U S C M Y I ● P R S C L L A R VI ● ● HE OR ER AS BU GA IEL M NI ● ● D I R B R G C E S A 28 IO LO IO T OE N T T ● ● B U E B E PA O I P. A R GE SI G 0 S N ● E E L M AN U ● IC D S E I I G .11 T D U I ● C A . P E N E G FA B N I ● ● KI BA AN ES P 28 E BR .1 ID E N I DA ● AL MI I P D T N ● IN ● DA LD GIA A OT B LU SI ● IA ● BA va OM AN D PE CE I ● AL C o A WP E Z A N IT A S SA IN N ● D D N ● R I P E I LI A E R V E V EU E L N Z AL PR US LI N I G RE ● G I D E Y I N C AV IO I● N D ● B E LO L E ● F L A O SH IA I Y FA U E T M U CC O ● ● BA BB RT R NR S E S A ● ’ R E ● S B PE I N IG H RU G E T CIE ● ● RO M ON M E S P EN I I LA I RR M E TA I ● ● CA NT A AR UR VE AN CA EN SS N ● ● SA AD M L A O R A A ● V E ● PR DE H RM N R A LL S DI ET A A U P ● S PI O ● A L N EG T E EI EN O ● O T IA ● R A RGI IT TT AN M F AM A ● ● O VU B O R M I L L A 1 AG E R L E R ● GI IS I O V P.5 R R P C L A I A U R ● T A A LO FE L ON ER IZ Z ● SU LG E ● M A N AV L A ● BU P OR Piazza E A R BEL RE I ● ● AT N MAT T EOTT I T O T I V RS N Meda ● A CO L C T L NF OR TE FI NE NN OU Z A TI SA CO RS O MO O F M O Y A EC D ER SE T SAN BABILA SI B R- L P E OS R E LI EG Piazza EL JA San Babila AT FR

EN M

P.5

M A VI

E Z IA

V IA

SA N

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Piazza San Carlo

Pisa OrOlOgeria Pisa Orologeria occupies an enviable location on one of Milan’s most prestigious shopping streets and is the ideal setting for its high-end timepieces. The company’s careful approach to brand selection means

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that many items become heirlooms, while the boutique’s friendly and informal atmosphere is refreshing. Pisa Orologeria, Via Pietro Verri/Via Montenapoleone 9, 20121 Milan, +39 02 762081, pisaorologeria.com

Metro

Café

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Spiga & Via Manzoni Area Via della Spiga

ANN

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UNC

E L L’

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V IA D

AT E B E

V I A PA L E S T R

V IA F

Piazza Cavour

VIA DEI GIA R DINI

LV EC AS CH N IN IO SO ISA LER PO R E A L AL LIT K EC O PA N N Y B C NI C CO ● MO TT O A R E O S ● PR I NE BA PRE R I R ● M A CO I A ● A A IN ● M E EL ● ROC GIN GI LU IN QU RO ● 2 ● VIR NI L B AR EN AR RE ’O OS ● R P.6 ● MA GIR UM UFS IN M E BL O D B L B O O ● L I U BL OL RT L V I E L BYL O M D R E ●● ● L L S B A A T ST CE ● MIS G & M A CO U E T L A ● TI N O IQ R O R CA ● BA N SO N E T OT PI CI P F N IC IK E N E ● I B IP FI I O H I A E ● N O M TO IL M D H - OL C LA ● SER ER A F LIN TC U L N HI R ● R O B I A N PA IG ● FA B C O A N E S I N D O ● I PI AP E N H N LI ● SER SC UR IO EL O H ● A ● POR N J AS IN N R IN C I F A MA U NO ● AL Piazza V IA ● NV GA AR O C NA N ● E I F ● LA L G Croce E A L M U VI PL IZI TI ● ● NIL NE Rossa PA P U O IP KR SU ● BR 30 DIA INE NA IT S IL º U R BA E IR ● H O N MONTENAPOLEONE P T A P I S L A M HIN GAB ● N ● O C O I U . R IM NT ● BL SC E & ND CO NP SA SA ● M O LC X & GA A F● V IA VI ● DO D’ S TMA N Y TA F ● A ● TO O R VE ● LS FF 20 TI ● SP BE ENE A P.1 NO ● SÙ G ● AD R S LA GE R Y I E D I R A P L M FA I ● VI A R KO R U N 3 ● VI UL A OP EL M IN 88 BI ● K EB LL CH HA L1 GL IU AL C NC ● I I PO DA A M M SQU EY P A U T I FR ● L ER AM I M PA ● VO T UT H ● IA ● RI NA PE NGC RET AV G A ● ● BA O O S C S P I BY ● L M AB O A Ò G ● A B L ● A GI LL TI MA LER I ● RE E& ● ND DE ET LC C LL I ● ’A A R DO ON INE DIN A ● NT VI MO A M ● I ● C R S A BO IÒ CU R A AR ER ● VI M G LO H E A M EIG O E DI LO EL G ANT T G SH LLI ● CO N S UR AR OIE IGA ● U BR EO K C I GI SP N TO I ● R ● M A E O T T LL IM NE IA ● R SA D E CH CO O M N O L R BU IA FA C H E R V

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SAN

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Piazza San Carlo

Piazza San Babila

’OR ALL

TRO

VIA

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Piazza Meda

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Metro

Pal Zileri Milano Via Manzoni, 20 - T. 02 76394680 shop online at www.palzileri.com

118 | G U I D E

ANN

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Via Manzoni & Via Fatebenefratelli

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● FOTO OTTICA CAVOUR

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● M ● CI A AN BE ● FO NZ LL BU IL FA G L I A ● I A O AN ● P R R S IE RO R NA GRA A ● E A E T D I CC ● CE T T TI TÉ A R IL BO DO ● ON AR L U I TA ● U T N HE VIT TE GL I 1 TE LI D ● ● 90 TT TO A N DE EL GA AS ● 2 CA AB ● RI S ● M GR EV A S RE A ● EL ILL D ● H T IM E EN T M IS TZ UL M D ● W I AB OL E T Y A ER IA AR ● D A ● M E D Y ET N ● S M A AT N TA TA L I N I ● ● M IMO GA TI AR FR PPE G ● ● T O A R T N E Z I NA MA AN TI M R T I E NI N T IS R CH ● MA G A S G A S E L L IA I● NZ PR LL RA ● ON IM ● ER NT ● HA I3 US SA I A 1● ● E- C M ● 7 F GÒ KET HR M ON A A P T O ● AT R I NZ Piazza TE TE T ● A A ON PA W I N R I Z L L Croce RO N A UL SE IA MA PO ● I SE Rossa ● GA SM T PEP NK LE ● 2 N E P I I O ND TH EL 4 M T W PI N ● A ● L AC E LT ● PE IC AN EN ER P MA P.1 O ● PA L L I C E Z O IT ZA 20 NI V EN RI CA L Z NI IR CA K OU NIS N SP ● TA I L E R O SH EN L A I ● T LE ● M N RE I M ZO Z ● S ● F IR SA E LL P C A ● J O R E YE L L CR OP VIL RE ● .15 I VI CO CO M W A 4 SÙ L O U C A I N L A ●● D A M ● I C E GE RI IAN S ● CI LO L L N PT A ● SC BR LA NE NE E TI BL I VI OI W A ● ● U L U R LE ● T OL PP BO SA P ER DE ● ● G IE- FO IN NP DE L A S SA ● C AL UP R O V CO OI LLI ● W ● L E P C OL O S D IA TO NT ● AY BI ● W G M NN A GL ● ● F AN HI P & IE I ● R EA B I N E L A A N Y M RS O N M O P ● OR IN ES FR RO ● O G ● BO E N DA ES RT T GH A ● T E A VI LA T I ● ● A L E SI RO R IR A DE FF E ● M TT ● B RT SS I● CE I I ● M I I J O UE M I NC VE RC X ID E A I● RO O DE RE C ● N E AT PA P ND O ● M S I TA R I T ’A ● M UA N L D I S AN I Z S L A ST ON P E A LA FE O I VI RT LT C A O T Z Z E● RI L Z TI O L NE A CA I VA M LL TU LE US I RE XT EU RA M ● BO

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CO RS O

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Piazza Meda

Piazza Scala

COR SO MAT TEO TTI

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120 | G U I D E

Pasquale Bruni refecting the italian character, Pasquale Bruni creates jewellery which is imaginative and elegant. The label is known for its strong design and attention to detail, resulting in high-quality, standout pieces. The range features diferent base metals and incorporates styles ranging from whimsical foral and butterfy motifs to simple pieces centred on a statement gem. Pasquale Bruni, Via della spiga 6a, 20121 Milan, +39 02 784118, pasqualebruni.com

Paul sMiTh Paul smithâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collections for men and women are infused with english eccentricity. The designer is an expert in combining tradition with a playful sense of humour, resulting in pieces that stand out from the crowd but are also supremely wearable. every Paul

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smith store has a distinctive interior but all boutiques refect the designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s character. expect to fnd jewellery, books and antiques artfully placed among the well-stocked clothing rails. Paul Smith, Palazzo Gallarati scotti, Via Manzoni 30, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 9181, paulsmith.co.uk

ILARIA FOLLI ●

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Great Masters of time specialises in cutting-edge swiss timepieces but also stocks an impressively broad range of established and emerging watch brands from around the world. the selection includes diamond-embellished pieces by Harry Winston, sleek designs by Chanel and watches which display richard Mille’s technical expertise. Great Masters of Time, Corso Magenta 11, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7208 0537, gmtitalia.com

● PETALI

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● ELENA MIRÒ ● CANETTA MAX & CO ● ● GUESS ● PAOLO CLERICI DAL 1780 ANGELICO ● RR ON E VI A PO ● MUSTO ● LEVI'S BOGGI ● ● IMPERIAL OTTICA VIGEVANO ● ● KIKO ● STUDIO LA PERLA D’AUGUSTA GIOIELLI ● ● CARPISA N STORE ● ● TRIUMPH ● TIM CLASS ● DANTE CORDUSIO CARLO PAZOLINI ● IMAGINARIUM ● Piazza

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BERSHKA ● MM ● BIBA ● BOTTEGA VERDE ● ● GEOX SWEET WAY ● Piazza S.Maria ● FOOT LOCKER MAC ● Beltrade BOUTIQUE DEL GIOIELLO ● ● ENERGIE / MISS SIXTY TRE ESSE SPORT ● ● MANGO ● MCS

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Corso Buenos Aires Area

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Persona specialising in clothing to fatter the fuller fgure, Persona is perfect for those looking for contemporary, feminine styles without compromising on quality. There are items to suit any occasion, from classic everyday staples and sportswear to party-ready dresses with complementary accessories. Persona, Corso Buenos aires 1, 20124 Milan, +39 02 2024 0597, personamr.com

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MY MILAN: ILARIA SESSO Ilaria Sesso is the creative director of womenswear at Mauro Grifoni. The company, which was set up in 1992, produces handmade shirts that combine traditional craftsmanship with contemporary styling. The success of this line led to the launch of a womenswear collection in 1997, and today the brand is sold across the world. Here, Ilaria shares her insider knowledge of Milan with Hannah Lewis

‘In Milan my favourite place to shop is Excelsior * p.105. This is a department store where you can fnd some of the most current fashion brands. The design and interior of the building is also amazing, it’s beautiful – it’s also great for a drink! ‘The Mauro Grifoni * p.112 shop is at Via Santo Spirito 17. I love to visit as this is the best way to understand what people really want. ‘Tokyo and London are also great cities to shop in; they ofer such a vast array of brands. In Italy, Milan is my favourite city to shop in.

Above (from lef): Excelsior, Galleria Del Corso; Mauro Grifoni fagship store

PHOTO: (ilaria SESSO) JaSOn SCHMiDT

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Above (clockwise from top): the pool at Ceresio 7; Cova café; Paper Moon restaurant

PHOTO: VEriTy HOGan

Al Vecchio Porco on Via Messina. There’s also Ceresio 7 which has a pool on the rooftop and serves amazing food. ‘Milan is beautiful, but sometimes for a special occasion I prefer to drive a little bit further out. If friends are visiting I sometimes drive them to Verona, just one hour from Milan. The hills around the city are amazing and the walks are beautiful. The centre of Verona is really good for shopping and great for dinner too; some of the most famous wines come from here. ‘One local person I really admire is Renzo Rosso, who co-founded Diesel. He’s not only a business man but a person who loves what he does.’

PHOTO: MaTTEO Piazza

‘My favourite walk is around Brera, in the heart of Milan. It’s a nice zone and an artistic place where you can fnd some old shops. ‘Paper Moon near San Babila is a really special place for me; whenever we fnish any event we always have dinner there. It’s a great place, with good people and amazing food. ‘There are so many really nice old cafés in Milan. Whenever I have time to walk around the city centre I always discover new little secret places, but for me the best is still Cova * p.114, in Via Montenapoleone. This place is special to me and is so elegant. ‘Milan’s best local secret is the restaurant

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Fidenza Village How to get tHeRe By car exit the A1 motorway at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore. Pass the tollbooth and Fidenza Village is 100 metres to your left. Fidenza Village, Via San Michele Campagna, 43036 Fidenza, +39 0524 33551, fdenzavillage.com, chicoutletshopping.com Opening times Monday-Sunday: 10am-8pm

PeRFeCt DAy

2pm Admire the elegance, creativity and quality demonstrated by Verri’s menswear.

10am Carlo Pazolini’s footwear combines traditional Italian craftsmanship with modern design.

4pm Visit Elena Mirò to fnd dynamic, trend-led fashions using fattering cuts and luxury materials for fuller fgures.

12pm enjoy an early lunch at Hostaria delle Terre Verdiane, which specialises in highquality, regional cuisine using the fnest local ingredients.

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6pm end your day at Piquadro; its luggage blends craftsmanship, innovation and technology.

By train From Milan: Fidenza station is on the direct line into Milano Centrale with frequent services and a journey time of approximately one hour 20 minutes. Upon arrival, take the shuttle bus to Fidenza Village; tickets can be purchased on board. By Shopping Express the Shopping express luxury coach service runs from central Milan to Fidenza Village daily.

The world’s greatest designer boutiques. All in one place. With up to 70% off * and tax-free shopping. BALDININI BIKKEMBERGS BROOKS BROTHERS ARMANI PINKO MISSONI TRUSSARDI JEANS POLLINI FURLA SWAROVSKI AND MANY MORE Receive 10% off your Shopping Express® return ticket from Milan by booking online with the code: GBFV2014

LIKE SHOPPING. BUT BETTER.

FidenzaVillage.com LONDON

DUBLIN

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Fidenza Village. A member of the Chic Outlet Shopping Collection of Villages © Fidenza Village 2014 *the recommended retail price ®

SUZHOU, CHINA

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Malpensa Airport: Terminal 1, Departures Check-In, second floor Terminal 1, Area B Extra Schengen, frst floor Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Linate Airport: Forexchange Maccorp, Departures Downtown Milan: La Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer service desk), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan

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Translations Русский ПеРевод 64: Let There Be Light

Да будет свет

В этом сезоне отличное чувство юмора стало визитной карточкой миланской моды, обнаружила Харриет Куик Свежие, яркие, смелые и интенсивные краски стали ключевыми на Миланской Неделе моды. Едва дизайнеры оправились от зимы, оставив позади чистые, минималистские линии, как к ним сразу же вернулось солнечное настроение и готовность приступить к весенне-летнему сезону 2014. Итальянские кутюрье были как всегда на высоте. В своем творчестве им удалось связать воедино беззаботную атмосферу средиземноморской жизни, тонкое мастерство и легкие как воздух ткани. Как и всегда, Милан отличался своей страстной и пышной элегантностью, которая в этот раз сочеталась с необычайной легкостью, юмором и элементами комизма. Доменико Дольче и Стефано Габбана подобно искусным чичероне с каждым новым сезоном проводят нам удивительную экскурсию по истории и культуре Италии, иллюстрируя все это соответствующими принтами, мотивами, мифами и легендами. В своей последней коллекции они продемонстрировали завораживающие globalblue.com

греческие и римские развалины Сицилии, наряду с античными монетами и местными цветами. Мини-юбки были украшены изображениями храмов и амфитеатров, на ремнях и аксессуарах для волос красовались золотые монеты, а симпатичные котейльные платья из белой органзы с завышенной талией и рукавами-колокольчиками были расшиты цветами миндального дерева. Эти наряды идеально подойдут для романтических свиданий, свадьбы, в том числе и для невесты, или для круизов на роскошной яхте по средиземному морю. Новое миланское настроение пылает радостью и изобилием, о чем прекрасно дал понять Moschino, отметивший свой 30-й юбилей выступлением королевы диско 70-х – Глории Гейнор. Конечно же, бренду и раньше было присуще чувство юмора, но в этом сезоне веселье и хорошее настроение стали заразительными. Moschino пересмотрел свои архивы и отправил на сцену танцующих моделей в жилетах с расцветкой итальянского флага, платьях в сочетании с ожерельями из плюшевых мишек и даже в платьях в форме бумажных пакетов. Здесь также можно было увидеть соблазнительных монашек и сияющих дам с продуктовыми кульками, одетых в веселые платья в горошек. Возможно, Карл Лагерфельд и обитает в черно-белом мире, однако его весенняя коллекция для Fendi сверкала самыми яркими красками. Алые и нежно-розовые, темно-синие и кислотнозеленые геометрические платья плавно приподнимались с каждым шагом моделей. Такая же интенсивная палитра была характерна и для бренда Max Mara, который знаком многим по довольно сдержанным и мягким цветам. Наряду с серией бежевых платьев коллекция бренда для этого сезона включала наряды таких оттенков, как коралловый, лазурный, бордовый, маковокрасный и желтый. Gucci пока не думает расставаться

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с декадентским стилем, о чем ясно свидетельствуют эксперименты Фриды Джаннини с принтами в стиле модерн на платьях-комбинациях и полупрозрачных кофтах в сеточку, из под которых выглядывают бикини. Однако, наряду с чувственной эстетикой здесь присутствовало немало пестрых элементов, включая радужный зеленый и блестящий медный. Питер Дундас в свою очередь обратил взор на боевые искусства и супергероиню популярных американских комиксов – Чудо-женщину (недаром Рита Ора и Рианна являются поклонниками дизайнера), в результате чего его коллекция для Emilio Pucci включала шелковые костюмы «бомберы», кожаные шорты в сетку, пестрые мини-юбки и футболки. Кроме того модницам предложили носить ботильоны цвета металлик и радужные платья, украшенные блестками. Что касается женских силуэтов, то здесь Милан решил не перегружать поклонников излишними деталями: свободные хлопковые штаны с поясом в индийском стиле в сочетании с безразмерными кофтами и шлепанцами – ключевой обувью сезона. В моду снова вернулся саронг, который отлично смотрится в паре с курткой на поясе. Prada также решила не пренебрегать простотой и создала ряд по-детски наивных принтов в пастельных тонах зеленого, желтого и розового. Яркие, смелые, веселые и жизнерадостные цвета наконец-то озарили небосвод миланской моды, показав ее истинную светлую сторону. dolcegabbana.com, moschino.com, fendi.com, gucci.com, emiliopucci.com, prada.com 72: Fashion Force

Модная алхимия

Возглавляющий Миланскую неделю моды Марио Боселли дает эксклюзивное интервью Стивену Дойгу Среди всей сумятицы и ажиотажа вокруг Миланской Недели моды довольно непросто разглядеть тех, кто трудится за кулисами этого мероприятия, обеспечивая городу globalblue.com

репутацию столицы мировой моды. Одним из таких людей является Марио Боселли, президент Национальной палаты моды Италии, той самой организации, которая отвечает за проведение Миланской Недели моды и поддержку модной индустрии страны в целом. В составе организации присутствуют сотрудники ряда итальянских компаний, включая Versace, Valentino, Fendi и Cavalli. В частности, руководство Миланской Недели моды представляют: генеральный директор Prada Патрицио Бертелли, основатели Diesel Ренцо Россо и Диего Делла Валле, а также президент и генеральный директор компании Tod’s. Начиная с 1999 года, Боселли руководил всеми аспектами работы Миланской Недели моды, в том числе оказывая поддержку начинающим талантам и новоиспеченным брендам. Как и следовало ожидать от человека, который занимает подобную должность, Боселли личность необыкновенно яркая, невозмутимая и обладающая безупречным чувством стиля. «Недавний успех миланских показов во многом связан с присутствием большого количества молодых дизайнеров, работающих бок о бок с всемирно известными брендами. Немаловажную роль здесь также играет нарастающий дух сотрудничества между Миланом и различными учреждениями, готовящими будущих звезд модной индустрии», – говорит он. В центре внимания Миланской Недели моды весна-лето 2014 оказалось немало молодых дизайнеров, – все благодаря инициативе Национальной палаты моды Италии, целью которой стало продвижение молодых талантов страны. В результате последние получили возможность продемонстрировать свои коллекции в Зале Кариатид в королевском дворце Милана, а неделей позже имена Фаусто Пуглиси и Стелла Жан – уже пестрили в новостных изданиях Нью-Йорка и Лондона. Боселли утверждает, что его организация посвящена творчеству подрастающего поколения, и приводит в пример имена таких многообещающих личностей, как Андреа

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Инконтри, Анджелос Братис, Ума Ванг и Марко Винчензо. Помимо проведения Недели моды в Милане и продвижения новых талантов, организация Марио Боселли также содействует общему развитию индустрии моды в стране и поддержанию ее богатого исторического наследия, умело лавируя между техническим инновациями и традициями прошлого. «Нас окружают традиции, уходящие корнями в глубь веков», – говорит Боселли. Мода всегда занимала в Италии основополагающее место; она составляет довольно большой сектор экономики и имеет важное значение для формирования рынка труда. «Италия – это страна безупречного стиля. За последние 50 лет наши возможности в сфере модной индустрии выросли многократно, в частности благодаря местной текстильной и швейной промышленности. На сегодняшний день насчитывается около 70 000 компаний, в которых задействовано 650 000 работников». Конечно же, в последние годы Милану не раз бросали вызов другие мировые столицы моды, но факт остается фактом: Миланская Неделя моды может похвастаться одними из самых роскошных, значимых и интересных коллекций в мире. «Милан высоко ценится во всем мире, говорит Боселли». «Конечно, по размерам он уступает Лондону, Парижу или Нью-Йорку, но зато он является своеобразной витриной моды, и отзывы самых престижных модных, которые мы получили в прошлом сезоне, очередное тому доказательство. В условиях стремительно развивающейся модной индустрии изделия итальянских дизайнеров по-прежнему остаются на высоте. «Мы помогаем малому и среднему бизнесу, работающему в сфере дизайна одежды, выйти на зарубежные рынки», – говорит Боселли. «Креативность и технологии являются основными факторами, благодаря которым фраза Made in Italy стала нарицательной; сочетание этих двух компонентов образует своего рода алхимию. Вековые традиции качества и мастерства позволяют Италии выпускать элегантные, высококлассные и удивительно комфортные изделия». cameramoda.it globalblue.com

78: All In The Detail

Совершенство В Деталях Превосходное мастерство в сочетании с безупречным дизайном: не удивительно, что итальянские аксессуары из натуральной кожи так популярны среди с мужчин по всему миру, говорит Руайрид Притчард Знак «Made in Italy» на протяжении веков считался синонимом исключительного качества и непревзойденного мастерства. Знающие люди всегда ценили аксессуары, изготовленные руками итальянских ремесленников, и сегодня их талант востребован как никогда раньше. Начиная от обуви, шляп и ремней и заканчивая бумажниками и сумками – итальянские изделия из кожи сегодня достигли новых стандартов роскоши. Cellerini – один из успешных итальянских проектов, задуманный Сильвано Челлерини еще в начале 1950-х годов. Его производство состояло всего из одной швейной машинки и нескольких отрезков кожи, купленных на деньги от небольшого наследства. Десять лет спустя Челлерини и его жена решили расширить ассортимент, начав пошив кожаных сумок и чемоданов для зажиточных флорентийских семей. Теперь бренд возглавляет дочь основателя – Алессандра, которая заботится о том, чтобы утвержденные родителями стандарты качества оставались всегда на высоте. Множество техник, использованных для пошива самой первой сумки бренда, по-прежнему актуальны: раскрой кожи всегда выполняется только вручную опытными ремесленниками, затем отдельные куски тщательно обрезаются и сшиваются с применением самых последних технологий. Кроме всего прочего, Cellerini продолжает предлагать услуги персонального пошива изделий, как и полвека тому назад. Благодаря широкому разнообразию кожи, подкладочных тканей, ниток и фурнитуры, Cellerini может создать любое изделие из натуральной итальянской

HACKETT.COM 38 VIA MANZONI, MILAN

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кожи специально по заказу клиента. Santoni – еще одно известное ателье, претендующее на звание лучшего в Италии. Оно было основано в 1975 году миланским портным Андреа Сантони и занимается пошивом роскошной обуви ручной работы. Сейчас брендом управляет уже второе поколение семьи Сантони, которому удалось не только расширить производство до уровня крупнейшего в стране, но и сохранить семейные ценности: качество, внимание к деталям и мастерство, полностью основанное на ручном труде. Два ключевых направления бренда – инновации и традиции – до сих пор обеспечивают прочную основу для работы. Сегодня Santoni сочетает в себе традиционное мастерство ручной работы и последние новаторские технологии производства. В результате каждая пара обуви, будь то туфли или полуботинки, сидит на ноге просто идеально. Немало усилий уходит на поиск отборных сортов кожи и ткани, которые смогут обеспечить обуви комфортность, прочность и неотразимый внешний вид. Лучшим примером такого подхода служит последняя коллекция бренда – Limited Edition Collection, дизайном которой занимался сам Андреа Сантони. Все этапы создания обуви, начиная с первого раскроя тщательно отобранной кожи и заканчивая нанесением финальных фирменных штрихов, выполняются исключительно вручную и могут занимать неограниченное количество времени. Например, окраска globalblue.com

кожи может состоять из более чем 15 этапов, что еще раз доказывает насколько ручной труд и мастерство ценятся на производстве Santorini. Однако вкусы стильных мужчин сегодня не ограничиваются лишь новинками итальянских аксессуаров. Все большую популярность среди поклонников красивого итальянского ремесла приобретают винтажные изделия из кожы. Миланский магазин Bernardini – настоящая сокровищница со множеством прекрасных старинных изделий, восстановленных должным образом. Основателем магазина в 1996 году был Макс Бернардинию. На идею открытия нового дела в како-то мере повлиял бизнес его отца, долгое время торговавшего изысканным антиквариатом. В магазине посетителей ждет эклектичная коллекция редких и тщательно подобранных изделий, начиная от винтажных саквояжей, чемоданов и заканчивая дамскими сумочками Prada и Gucci. Многие из изделий были сделаны на заказ специально для богатых европейских путешественников еще во времена первых африканских экспедиций начала 20-х годов. Разнообразие и привлекательность коллекции служат прекрасной иллюстрацией многовекового качества итальянского производства, особенно в отношении изделий из кожи. Современные мужчины прекрасно понимают, что приобретение кожаных аксессуаров итальянского производства связано не только с выгодными

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инвестициями. Аксессуары могут дать весьма четкое представление о богатых итальянских традициях мастерства и пошива вещей на заказ. Изготовленные вручную аксессуары всегда были и остаются визитной карточкой итальянской роскоши и отличительным признаком понастоящему хорошо одетого мужчины. cellerini.it, santonishoes.com, bernardinimilano.it 132: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.94 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых пунктах возврата взымается дополнительная фиксированная плата за немедленный возврат наличными.

globalblue.com

美文翻译

64: Let There Be Light 光芒万丈

这一季的米兰时尚充满趣味，Harriet Quick带您领略其中奥妙清爽、明亮、大胆与爆炸电光色——在米兰时装周上，设计师们摇身一变，抛弃了冬季的纯粹与极简线条，在2014春/夏开始拥抱轻松闲适的明媚春光，为人们吹来和煦的盛夏微风。意大利设计师们素来最擅长演绎地中海风格的无忧无虑，他们在系列中引入制作工艺卓越而轻如羽毛的简单面料。米兰一直被认为是压抑、黑暗、充满忧郁气质的，虽然那些黑暗元素依旧存在，但趣味、诙谐与生机勃勃已经席卷了米兰的秀场。 Domenico Dolce与Stefano Gabbana是领略意大利各季节风光的杰出向导，他们带领我们踏上穿越历史与文化的旅程，沿途重新定义版画、图腾、神话与辉煌传说。伴随着新系列中的古代钱币、本土花卉，他们重新挖掘西西里岛的古希腊和罗马废墟。连衣裙的轻快下摆上，描绘着神庙与露天剧场的棕褐色图像；古代钱币被放大做成腰带扣与发饰，以3D浮雕效果印制的精致扁桃树花朵，摇曳在美丽绝伦的、拥有纤细腰部和钟形袖管的白色透明纱鸡尾酒裙上。这些作品适合浪漫约会、参加婚礼（甚至是作为新娘婚纱），或是在横跨地中海的游艇上穿着。喜悦与热情已成为米兰的新主题。以 Moschino为例，为庆祝30岁生日，品牌邀请20世纪70年代的Disco女王Gloria Gaynor，为观众带来激动人心的表演。幽默与狂欢素来是品牌的拿手好戏，但在本季这种愉悦的心情变得更具传染性。Moschino从作品旧档案中翻箱倒柜，将身着意大利国旗图案背心、身着毛绒玩具熊衣领连衣裙与纸袋礼服的跳舞女郎送上T型台。身披活泼的波尔卡圆点模特们，扮成风姿绰约的修女或是喜气洋洋的母亲，仿佛外出进行每周食品采购。 Karl Lagerfeld或许是一个居住在黑白世界中的人，但他为Fendi带来的春季系列同样散发着耀眼夺目、令人陶醉的电光色。几何叠层连衣裙在行走的模特身上漂浮跃动，从猩红色过渡到褐色、钴蓝色、艳绿色的彩虹配色让人垂涎欲滴。同样生动的色彩碰撞还发生在Max Mara，该品牌素来以柔和、宁静与精致著称。品牌本季带来一些列蘑菇形连衣裙，还有珊瑚色、蔚蓝色、紫红色、罂粟红和杏黄色的通勤连衣裙与礼服。 Gucci素来是颓废的，Frida Giannini善于在长礼服上运用新浪潮艺术印花，或是制作适合在

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72: Fashion Force 时尚力量

SHOP杂志的Stephen Doig有幸得到这个难得的机会，采访米兰时装周的幕后推手Mario Boselli 流连于米兰时装周的耀眼炫目中，很容易忘记那些让这座庞大机器得以运转的齿轮，即那群在幕后拼命工作的人们，是他们让这座城市得以维持其无可比拟的时尚领袖地位。团队的核心便是 Mario Boselli，他是米兰时装周的主办机构，也是孕育了意大利时装工业的C a mer a Nazionale della Moda Italiana——意大利国家时装商会的主席。商会的成员中不乏一些时尚界显赫的名字，从Versace,Valentino,Fendi到Cavalli。此外米兰时装周的执行委员会，还包括P r ad a的首席执行官Patrizio Bertelli，Diesel的创始人 Renzo Rosso，以及Tod’s的首席执行官Diego Della Valle等成员。自1999年以来，Boselli就开始掌控米兰时装周的方方面面，包括推动新进人才登上时尚舞台，以及为成熟品牌提供支持。正如人们所期待的，Boselli本人衣着时尚、纤尘不染；他同样处事冷静、充满掌控力。 “近年来，米兰的成功可归功于年轻设计师们，归功于定期活跃于各种活动的国际时尚名牌，也归功于米兰与时尚机构之间的新合作精神， ”他说道。米兰 2 0 14 春夏时装周将重心放在推广年轻设计师上，这要归功于意大利国家时装 globalblue.com

商会率先为本国人才提供展示机会。范例之一是年轻设计师们受邀在皇宫的C a r y a t i d s 大厅展出自己的作品。在时装周的尾声，两名新锐设计师Fausto P uglisi与Stel la Jean的作品，已出现在从纽约到伦敦的诸多新店铺中。B o s e l l i 表示他的组织致力于推动年轻创意，他提到了不少冉冉升起的新设计师，包括 Andrea Incontri,Angelos Bratis,Uma Wang和 Marco de Vincenzo。除了举办米兰时装周和培养新人才，意大利国家时装商会常年支持与推动着意大利时尚产业。该组织维护着意大利时装丰富的历史遗产，在尊重过去的同时，不忘放眼未来与创新。 “我们国家的时装史可以追溯到几个世纪以前， ”Boselli 说。意大利与时尚产业的关系毋庸置疑——时尚产业在意大利是一个巨大的经济部门，也是重要的就业来源。这个国家的历史布满了卓越时尚的缩影。归功于纺织业与制衣业的繁荣，在过去50年中，意大利已发展出巨大的时尚生产力。今天在这个产业中已有70,000家公司，650,000名工作人员。自然，近年来世界各地有不少时装之都，在尝试夺走米兰的皇冠，但事实是米兰时装周依旧是全球最具影响力、最奢华、最具导向性的时装周。 “米兰这座城市也被国际观众们交口称赞”Boselli表示。 “就规模而言，我们不能与伦敦、巴黎或纽约相提并论，但这座城市本身就展示着时尚，上一季我们从行业内最负盛名的品牌那里得到的反馈，证明了这一点。” 在蓬勃发展、日新月异的国际时装舞台上，意大利时尚仍旧饱受赞誉。 “我们帮助中小型时尚品牌开拓国外市场， ”Boselli说道。 “意大利制造成功的背后，是创造力和技术含量；当两者相结合时，会产生意想不到的奇妙效果。我们以传统方式工作，与历史和技术紧密相连，这意味着意大利制造不仅外在美丽、优雅、大方、而且也很耐穿。” cameramoda.it

PHOTO: Feudi e Guaineri

甲板上套于比基尼之外的透明网状套头衫。然而在她的感性美学之外，还混杂着如蜻蜓翅膀绿与闪烁古铜色构成的彩虹条状元素。Peter Dundas 则借鉴武术与电影《神奇女侠》（难怪Rita Ora 和Rihanna是他的粉丝），为Emilio Pucci品牌设计出丝绸棒球外衣，皮质网眼运动短裤与镶嵌迷你裙与T恤。此外还有高闪光金属色的蕾丝短靴，与一条镶有彩虹条纹亮片的礼裙。米兰同样在女装剪裁的廓型上变得更随性。超大束带的泰式风格棉质长裤搭配露肩上衣与高防水台冲浪夹脚拖——它也是本季的新潮鞋。纱笼裙卷土重来，用以搭配束带夹克可谓完美无瑕。Prada试图解读现代女性的心思，带来蜡笔绿色、黄色和粉红色调的、充满童年气息的印花。夸张，耀眼，大胆，明亮，还有将近沸腾的喜悦，米兰的光明面终于浮出水面。 dolcegabbana.com, moschino.com, fendi.com, gucci.com, emiliopucci.com, prada.com

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痴醉细节

无可挑剔的设计加上精湛的制作工艺：难怪男人对意大利优良皮革如此痴醉，Ruairidh Pritchard如是说。几个世纪以来， “意大利制造”一直是非凡品质的代名词。这些知名品牌，一直将本国的工匠技能发扬光大。如今的优秀工匠们，比往昔更能将才华发挥得淋漓尽致，制作出最为出色的男装配件。从鞋子到帽子，皮带和钱包，行李箱，意大利的手工皮具均在奢侈品品质上创下新高。意大利的传奇之一是Cellerini。这个品牌由 Silvano Cellerini在20世纪50年代初创办，创办之时极为简陋，不过拥有一架缝纫机和若干皮革，继承产业如此稀薄，谁也不成料想，十年之后，Cellerini与妻子将此品牌扩张做大，开创自主的皮革、手袋、行李箱，一度成为佛罗伦萨最富足的家族之一。该品牌如今为创始人之女Alessandra掌舵，她将父母所留下的绝世品质发扬光大。不少工艺技术依旧保持至今：皮革切割完全由熟练工匠手工精细完成。在缝制之前，所有皮革皆被小心裁剪，当然，如今日益先进的制造技术也为精良的制作贡献良多。同样，如今Cellerini所能提供的个性化定制，比半个世纪前更为琳琅满目。由于原材料的多样性，客户可以自主选择小牛皮、衬板、线和硬件等等来组装。但凡客户有所心愿，Cellerini皆可为其奉上意大利皮革杰作。另一家族工作室Santoni，可称得上意大利最好的品牌。此品牌由Andrea Santoni于1975年创立，在米兰城里内打造出精美绝伦的手工鞋。如今，Santoni第二代已掌舵数十年，壮大成为意大利本土最大制鞋企业之一。他们一直坚守着核心价值观品质，对细节保持不懈的激情，以及坚持一丝不苟手工打造工艺。 Santoni的两大关键支柱——创新与传统——仍然是该品牌坚实的基础。如今，Santoni 结合了传统专家手工工艺与开拓性的生产技术，以确保每个品类臻至完美，无论是粗革皮鞋或是切尔西靴子。 Santoni不惜将大量精力投入采购最抢手珍稀的皮革和面料，以确保每种风格有着尽善尽美的舒适，实用耐用以及时尚美观。这些品质在最新限量珍藏版上得到最为完美的体现。所有设计和材料监督都由Andrea Santoni亲自担当。从精心挑选的皮革到最终打上品牌火漆，每一步皆由手工费时费力完成。鞋子制作上几乎不计时间成 globalblue.com

本，皮革着色超过15道工序，这证明了Santoni对于工艺的重视程度。然而，意大利皮革并非只是新近在富人圈中流行。复古及古董皮具流传有序，如今越发为人重视，不乏有心人投资于漂亮的意大利皮革。米兰的Bernardini是一家古董行，专门经营精美珍稀古董。该店由Max Bernardini始建于1996年，他的父亲一直以来为意大利最富有的家族进口精美古玩，他的热爱与灵感便来自于长期的耳濡目染。这家古董行气氛温馨，甚至拥有全职调酒师，是收集珍稀古董的专业场地，古董皮具应有尽有，无论是老式旅行箱包，手提箱或是梳妆盒，品牌还包括Prada和Gucci。这许多箱包当时为富裕的欧洲探险家而制。那些探险家便携此箱包在二十世纪初期第一次远征非洲。这些传奇的故事，多样的皮具，精美的设计都为意大利的品质皮具写下精彩不凡的注脚。对于现代男人而言，意大利皮具不仅拥有恒久风格，更拥有丰富的专业工艺传统和个性化的定制技术。这不仅是意大利男人着装的标志风格，更是意大利制作对于奢侈品行业的杰出贡献。 cellerini.it, santonishoes.com, bernardinimilano.it

78: All In The Detail

6, Via Montenapoleone, Milano www.camper.com

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132: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。每年有两千三百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程：

1. 消费购物无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。

惑でお馴染みだが、今シーズンのキャットウォークはそうした魅力を依然見せつつも、軽やかさ、楽しさ、ユーモア、活気が溢れている。ドメニコ・ドルチェとステファノ・ガッバーナは素晴らしいイタリアツアーガイドで、毎シーズン、プリントやモチーフ、神話や伝説を繰り返し登場させて、観客を歴史と文化の旅に誘ってくれる。最新コレクションでは、シチリアの古代ギリシャ・ローマ時代の遺跡を発掘し、古いコインや土地の花々を紹介している。裾の揺れるミニドレスにセピア色の寺院や円形劇場を描き、コインは拡大してベルトのバックルや髪飾りに。ウェストがくびれたベルスリーブの何とも愛らしい白オーガンザのカクテルドレスからは、花咲くアーモンドの木の繊細な姿を立体的に浮かび上がらせた。こうした作品は、ロマンチックなデートやウェディング（花嫁衣装としても）にピッタリ。地中海に浮かぶヨットでのひと時にも打ってつけだ。ミラノの新風を言葉で表せば、喜びと活気に尽きる。その典型がモスキーノで、創業 30周年のショ

2. 申请退税当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到我们的客服柜台领取您的退税款。联系方式：

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€154.94并且节约高达购买价格15.5%的税。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。若选择即时现金退税，部分退税点将以退税表格为单位收取一定数额的手续费。日本語

64: Let There Be Light 光あれ

新鮮で明るく、大胆で極彩色満載 ―ミラノ・ファッションウィークでは、デザイナーたちが趣向を変え、冬のピュアでクリーンなミニマリスト的ラインから一転して、軽やかで陽気で真夏の風のように爽快なムードをふんだんに表現した2014 年春夏コレクションを見せた。中でもイタリア人デザイナーは出色で、地中海ののんびりした雰囲気を取り入れ、職人の技が光る細工やシンプルで羽のように軽い生地と融合させている。ミラノといえば官能的で小悪魔的な夜の魅 globalblue.com

PHOTO: Andre’ LucAT/SGP

今シーズンのミラノにはファッションの楽しさが溢れている。ハリエット・クイックがレポートする。

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ーを1970 年代のディスコの女王グロリア・ゲイナーのパフォーマンスで盛り上げた。もちろん、このブランドの戯れとユーモアはこれが初めてではないが、今シーズンはこれまでと違ってそのハッピーなムードが蔓延している。モスキーノは過去の資料をもとに、イタリア国旗をモチーフにしたベストや、テディベアの縫いぐるみを襟にしたドレス、紙袋のドレスを繰り出し、モデルたちはキャットウォークを踊り歩いた。さらに、妖女のような尼や、陽気なポルカドットのドレスで週一の食料品買出しから戻る上機嫌のママも登場した。カール・ラガーフェルドは白と黒の世界に生きる男かもしれないが、フェンディの春夏コレクションでは鮮やかな極彩色を弾けさせている。ドレスに重ねた幾何学的な形のレヤーがモデルの歩みに従ってふわりふわりと揺れる。色合いも、緋色からバラ色へのグラデーション、コバルトブルー、ポイズングリーンと、いかにも欲しくなる虹色のパレットだ。こうした鮮やかで迫力ある色彩は、ソフトで落ち着いた洗練という印象が強いマックスマーラにも見られ、マッシュルーム色の一連のドレスに加えて、サンゴ色、セルリアンブルー、ワイン色、オレンジ系のレッド、鮮烈なイエローのシフトドレスやロングドレスが登場した。一方、デカダンスが真骨頂のグッチでは、フリーダ・ジャンニーニが、ヨットのデッキでビキニの上に羽織るのにちょうどいいアールヌーボー風プリントのスリップドレスやシースルーメッシュのトレーナーを披露した。官能的美感の表現の中に、トンボの羽根の緑色や揺らめく赤銅色といった玉虫色が垣間見え、光物の要素が加わっている。エミリオ・プッチでは、ピーター・デュンダスが、武術やワンダーウーマンを意識したシルクのボマースーツやメッシュレザーのランニングショートパンツ、装飾を施したミニやT シャツを見せた（リタ・オラやリアーナがファンだというのも頷ける。）編上げブーツは光沢のあるメタリック。虹色のシークインが眩いドレスもあった。ミラノでは、女性のシルエットについてもゆったりしたものが出てきており、ベルト付きでだぶっとしたコットンのタイ風ズボンにオフショルダーのトップ、今シーズン大人気の厚底ビーチサンダルといった装いが登場している。サロンスカートも復活し、ベルト付きジャケットとの組み合わせが素敵だ。プラダも、緑、黄色、ピンクといったクレヨン色の無邪気で天真爛漫なプリントで、遊び心ある現代女性像を映し出した。派手でピカピカ、大胆で明るく歓びに満ち溢れた作品の数々。ミラノファッションの快活な表情がようやく現れた。 dolcegabbana.com、moschino.com、 fendi.com、gucci.com、emiliopucci.com、

prada.com globalblue.com

72: Fashion Force ファッションの力ミラノ・ファッションウィークの仕掛け人マリオ・ボセッリが、珍しくインタビューに応じた。SHOP 誌のスティーヴン・ドイグが聞く。ミラノ・ファッションウィークの喧噪と魅惑の中で、その開催に欠かせない役割を担う人々、世界一のファッションリーダーとしてのミラノの評判を守るために裏方として奔走する人々のことは忘れがちだ。その中心的存在が、このイベントの運営とイタリアファッション産業の育成を任務とするイタリアファッション協会のマリオ・ボセッリ会長だ。同協会のメンバーには、ヴェルサーチ、ヴァレンティノ、フェンディ、カヴァッリなどファッション界の超大物が名を連ね、ミラノ・ファッションウィーク実行委員会も、プラダのCEOパトリツィオ・ベルテッリ、ディーゼルの創業者レンゾ・ロッソ、トッズの CEOディエゴ・デッラ・ヴァッレなど錚々たる顔ぶれだ。ボセッリは1999年以来、新人デザイナーのプロモーションと確立済みのブランドへの支援を含め、ミラノ・ファッションウィークのあらゆる面を監督してきた。予想通りスタイリッシュで完璧な装いの彼は、穏やかさと落ち着きの模範のような人でもある。「近年のミラノの成功は、若手デザイナーの存在とイベント常連の国際ブランド、そして、ミラノと各ファッション協会との間に新たに育まれた協力精神に帰する」という。ミラノ・ファッションウィーク2014 年春夏』では、同国の才能を披露すべくイタリアファッション協会が設けた各種イニシアチブのおかげで、若手デザイナーに大きな注目が集まった。その一例は、若手デザイナーを招いてミラノ王宮のカリアティデス広間でコレクションを披露させたこと。二人の新進デザイナー、ファウスト・プリージとステラ・ジーンは、その週が明けないうちにニューヨークからロンドンまで各地の報道で取り上げられた。協会として若いクリエーターの支援に力を注いでいるというボセッリは、アンドレア・インコントリ、アンジェロス・ブラティス、ユマ・ワン、マルコ・デ・ヴィンチェンツォといった有望デザイナーの名を挙げる。イタリアファッション協会は、ミラノ・ファッションウィークの運営と新人デザイナーの後援の他にも、イタリアファッションの振興支援のため一年を通して活動している。歴史豊かなイタリアファッションの伝統を支え、過去に敬意を払いつつ未来の革新とのバランスをとっていきたい考えだ。「私たちの伝統は数世紀も昔に遡ります」とボセッリ。イタリアで

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はファッションは重大事だ。巨大な経済セクターを成し、重要な雇用提供者となっている。「卓越したスタイルには我が国の歴史が凝縮されているのです。イタリアでは、自国のテキスタイル・衣料品産業を足場にファッション生産力が過去50年間に驚異的に伸び、今日では7万社、65万人を擁する産業になっています。」もちろん、近年は世界中の他のファッション都市がミラノの王座を狙ってきたが、最もパワフルで贅沢で業界の路線を左右するようなコレクションが披露される場がやはりミラノ・ファッションウィークであることに変わりはない。「ミラノ市全体が世界の評価を得ている」とボセッリはいう。「規模はロンドンやパリ、ニューヨークほどではありませんが、ミラノはファッションのショーケースであり、昨シーズンに業界の重鎮の方々からいただいたフィードバックがそのことを証明しています。」目まぐるしく活気ある世界のファッション界で、イタリアのファッション製品は依然相当な威信を保っている。「当協会は、中小規模のファッションブランドの国外進出を支援しています。イタリアンブランドが成功してきた主な要因は創造力と技術。これらが合わさった時に、素晴らしいものが生まれます。イタリア人は従来、自国の歴史や技法に根差した仕事の仕方をしてきました。だからこそ、美しく優雅で高級かつ着心地の良いものを作ることができるのです。」 cameramoda.it

globalblue.com

78: All In The Detail ディテールがすべて優れた職人技に非の打ちどころのないデザイン、イタリアの高級革製洋品ブランドが世界中の男性にうけているのも不思議はない。ルーリー・プリチャードがレポートする。何世紀も前から、「メイド・イン・イタリア」といえば一際優れた品質を意味してきた。通はこの国の職人が持つ伝統技能を常に高く評価してきたが、その職人たちが今、従来にも増してその才能を最高の革製紳士洋品の生産に注いでいる。靴から帽子、カバン、ベルト、財布、旅行カバンに至るまで、イタリアの手作り革製品はさらなる贅沢の極みに達している。イタリアのサクセスストーリーの一つがチェレリーニだ。シルヴァーノ・チェレリーニが1950年代初頭に設立したこのブランドは、少額の遺産を元手に買ったミシン一台と獣皮一枚から出発した。10年後、チェレリーニとその妻は事業を拡大し、当時のフィレンツェの最富裕層を相手に、革のハンドバッグや旅行カバンを作り始める。現在このブランドを率いるのは創業者の娘アレッサンドラだが、比類のない品質に対する両親のこだわりを持ち続けることに心を砕いている。チェレリーニが初めてカバンを作った時の作業手順の多くは、今も変わっていない。革は全て同社の経験豊かな職人が手でカットし、続くトリミングも手作業で丁寧に行う。その後の縫製過程では、製造技術の進歩の助けを借りている。また、チェレリーニでは、半世紀以上も前と同じレベルのパーソナライゼーション・サービスを今も提供している。仔牛革、裏地、糸、金具は幅広い選択肢があり、自分だけのイタリア革の傑作を誂えてもらえる。同じく家族経営のアトリエで「イタリア最高」を自称するのは、サントーニだ。アンドレア・サントーニが1975年に創業して以来、ミラノ製手作り靴の傑作をいくつも生み出して来た。創業から数十年を経て現在二代目が舵を取るサントーニは、イタリア生まれの靴メーカーとしては国内有数の規模に成長したが、「品質」、「ディテールへのこだわり」、「もっぱら手作業」という基本的な価値観は変わらず持ち続けている。ブランドの二大柱である「革新」と「伝統」は、仕事の基礎として今も揺るぎない。近年は、ブローグでもチェルシーブーツでも、一足一足の靴のフィット感を極めるために、伝統に根差した職人の技と先駆的な生産技術とを組み合わせている。どのスタイルでも、デザインが粋で、しかも履き心地が良く実用的で耐久性の高いものを作るため

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132: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税にグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを踏むだけです。

1. お買い物お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに。

2. 還付請求ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーのカスタマーサービスデスクで払い戻しを受けます。お問い合わせ：

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.94以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高 15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください。なお、現金での即日還付が必要な場合は、還付の場所によって、各タックスフリーフォームにつき固定の追加手数料をとられる場合があります。

に、最も珍重される皮や生地の調達にも余念がない。そうした努力がありありと見てとれるのが、同ブランドの最新限定コレクションだ。デザインも材料も、アンドレア・サントーニが自ら吟味している。厳選された革のカットから最後にサントーニのマークの焼印を入れるまで、の全ての工程を手で行い、一足を作るのに時間の制限はない。革の着色過程一つでも 15回以上色を重ねなければならないものがあり、それを思えば、サントーニの生産には依然として職人の技が最も重要なことがわかる。ところで、裕福な男性のお気に入りは何も新品のイタリア製品だけではない。ヴィンテージや修復されたアンティークの革製品も、美しいイタリアンレザーに投資したい人の間で人気が高まっている。ミラノのベルナルディーニは、手間暇かけて修復された珍しいアンティーク物が一杯だ。この店はオーナーのマックス・ベルナルディーニが1996 年に開店した。父親がイタリアの大富豪向けの高級アンティーク輸入に携わっていたことがきっかけだ。バーテンダーが常駐する感じのいい店内には、プラダやグッチといったブランド製のヴィンテージのトランクやスーツケース、バニティケースなど、巧みに入手した珍品を折衷したコレクションが展示されている。その多くは、20世紀はじめのアフリカ探検時代初期にヨーロッパの富裕な探検家用に作られたものだ。品揃えの多様さと価値の高さは、イタリアの高級革製品作りの長い歴史をまざまざと証明している。現代の男性にとって、イタリア革製洋品は長持ちするスタイルへの投資であるだけでなく、職人技を駆使したもの作りと、昔から真の着こなし上手の特徴であり、本当の贅沢に対するイタリア人のこだわりの印でもある個々人に合わせたパーソナライゼーションの豊かな伝統について、興味深い洞察を与えてくれるものでもあるのは確かだ。 cellerini.it、santonishoes.com、 bernardinimilano.it

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