SHOP Munich AW14

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name

customers express when they purchase

“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost

jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of

expertise in the art of making jewellery

jewellery uphold international standards

and timepieces. We offer a unique

and are born in our own atelier. This is

selection of valuable treasures at 28

true for unusual one-of-a-kind items

Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are

as well as for our diverse assortment

especially proud because for more than

of classic pieces with brilliant-cut

a century we have been privileged to

diamonds. And a century-old friendship

contribute to the grand feelings that our

links us with the world’s foremost watch

We accept all credit cards.

www.wempe.com

manufactories. You will find WEMPE

will always be available to meet your

showrooms at the loveliest locations

individual needs. We cordially invite you

in great European metropolises, New

to discover an abundance of interesting

York City and in Beijing. Each shop also

new items and exclusive special models

offers service or advice whenever you

at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We

require it, so you can be certain that we

look forward to your visit! Maximilianstraße 10, T +49.(0)89.29 12 99 muenchen.max@wempe.de Weinstraße 11, T +49.(0)89.242 38 06 muenchen.weinstrasse@wempe.de A. Lange & Söhne Boutique Perusastraße 3-4, T +49.(0)89.255 44 780 lange-soehne-muenchen@wempe.de HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK

Willkommen bei Bucherer, ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmen und eines der führenden Häuser für Uhren und Schmuck in Europa. In unseren Münchner Geschäften in der Residenzstraße und in der Neuhauser Straße erwartet Sie eine große Auswahl an Luxus-Uhrenmarken und exquisiter Schmuckstücke sowie ein erstklassiger Service. Welcome to Bucherer, a Swiss company with a long tradition and one of the leading establishments for watches and jewellery in Europe. In our Munich store at Residenzstrasse and at Neuhauser Strasse you will ﬁnd a broad selection of luxury watch brands and exquisite jewellery, as well as ﬁrst-class service.

und viele mehr and many more

München Residenzstraße 2 | Residenzstraße 11 Neuhauser Straße 2

Patek Philippe is available at the following Bucherer stores: Berlin Friedrichstraße 179, Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1 and Munich Residenzstraße 11.

WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com

Montblanc Star Classique and Hugh Jackman Crafted for New Heights Manufactured in Switzerland, the Star Classique Automatic, with its slim 8.9 mm 18 K red gold case and its ergonomically shaped case back, is a ďŹ ne companion for an elegant appearance. Visit and shop at Montblanc.com

Munich, Berlin, Cologne, Hamburg, DĂźsseldorf, Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Hannover

T he Oberpollinger depar tment store offers its customers a stunning range of exquisite lifestyle goods spread over 33,000 m 2 of shopping area. Featuring a designer boulevard, prestigious fashion labels, a special concierge service, gourmet specialities as well as anything a discerning customer requires. Visit this exciting world of luxury just waiting to be explored right in the heart of Bavariaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s capital. The department store frst opened its doors in 1905. It has been expanded and continually modernized over the course of its more than 100-year history. Innovative interior plus an exclusive selection of products and services place the Oberpollinger a cut above the rest.

International labels line up like pearls on a string along our unique designer boulevard: Prada, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Bottega Veneta, Dior, Fendi, Burberry, Tod‘s, Mulberry, Longchamp, Ralph Lauren Accessoires and Salvatore Ferragamo. The glamorous names of our accessory boutiques constitute a veritable who‘s who of the fashion world. Once you have reached the end of our designer boulevard, you‘ll fnd Oberpollinger‘s spacious beauty world. Here visitors can enjoy an exclusive treatment in one of the many beauty lounges.

Munich‘s cosmopolitan department store provides fashion labels, international designer brands of women‘s apparel and menswear, undergarments, lingerie and hosiery as well as the season‘s latest footwear trends. In addition, the Oberpollinger ofers an exclusive range of jewelry, watches and fne stationery. Our concierge service at the main entrance is one-of-a-kind in Germany. This is where all your wishes will be fulflled. Whether you would like to book a personal shopper, use a delivery service, order a taxi or find a good restaurant for the evening, our service philosophy caters towards our customers‘ every need. On the fourth foor, you will fnd our customer service centre, dealing with your everyday needs, such as tax-free shopping papers for our foreign customers.

Our home & living department on the fourth foor boasts a wide selection of products, including designer objects, decorative elements and highquality home textiles. The ever-popular LeBufet restaurant on the ffth foor is the ideal choice for a smart lunch break. The spacious rooftop terrace provides a grand panoramic view over Munich – as well as enjoyment and relaxation galore.

A staf of nearly 600 employees is looking forward to serve more than 20,000 customers from Munich and beyond each day. Welcome to a new era of shopping. Welcome to Oberpollinger.

SERVICES

TIME IS A LUXURY NOWADAYS, SO LET US MAKE TIME FOR YOU!

PERSONAL SHOPPER Our Personal Shopper specialists will make your shopping trip to our store into a really unique and wonderful experience. We cater specifcally to your personal preferences and wishes, showing you gift ideas, sharing the latest news about our store, and letting you know about limited edition products. One call is all it takes for your Personal Shopper to spring into action. The next time you visit Oberpollinger a specially selected range of fashions will await you, perfectly tailored to your particular tastes, size and preferred brands. You can then try everything on at a time arranged to suit you, whilst enjoying a drink in our exclusive, private changing area. For further information, please contact us on +49 (0)89 2902 5120

In addition, the Oberpollinger is delighted to ofer you many other exclusive services:

CONCIERGE SERVICE Our concierge service based on the ground foor can organize a chaufeur and delivery service, personal shopping appointments, restaurant & hotel bookings, fower services, and much, much morge: just ask!

GIFT-WRAPPING SERVICES Our expertise is to make even the smallest gift stand out. Arrive with personalised packaging for your gift and our team will be delighted to help you. The packing/gift-wrapping service is in the Service Center on the 4th Floor.

BEAUTY LOUNGES & SERVICES The exclusive wellness & treatment area provides relief from the stresses of the day and beckons you into the world of the senses. Indulge yourself with the latest treatments and professional services that are available from our beauty specialists in our beauty lounges. In addition, whether you need a wellness manicure and pedicure or a new Make-up, all beauty treatments are carried out at Oberpollinger with total care and professionalism. For further information, contact our customer service.

COMPLIMENTARY WIFI Simply log-in while you are visiting the Oberpollinger and enjoy complimentary wireless internet connection for up to 3 hours.

CUSTOMER SERVICES Unfortunately even we cannot always completely check all our products. Should you fnd a fault with your purchase from Oberpollinger, we will do our utmost to resolve the matter quickly, without complications and to your full satisfaction. Should you have any questions, suggestions or complaints, our customer services on the 4th foor are always willing to listen. Our top priority is to fulfl your every wish and to always do better for you. For further information, please call +49 (0)89 2902 3235.

IN-HOUSE TAILOR Our in-house tailors can change your clothing items and bring them to perfection, regardless of whether these were purchased in Oberpollinger or in other stores. If you have an alteration request, simply tell one of the staf in the clothes department; they will be happy to assist you and organise everything for you.

TAX FREE AVAILABLE AT EACH CASH POINT. Currency choice available, which allows you to pay in your own currency.

Oberpollinger München ∙ Neuhauser Str. 18 ∙ 80331 München ∙ Tel. +49 (0)89 29 02-30 www.oberpollinger.de ∙ Opening Hours: Mon - Sat 10 am - 8 pm

&+5,67ć&#x2026;¤ç&#x17D;&#x2030;ŕŹ&#x161;ĺ&#x2C6;§đ&#x2DC;&#x201E;Šă?¤đ&#x201D;ĄĽŃ˘ă&#x2019;?ĺ ¸Đ á&#x2013;&#x2014;ÔĄă&#x2022;&#x201A;Ë&#x2C6; ŃťŕŞ&#x2022;ŕŞ&#x2022;ä&#x2039;źŕ¤§đ&#x2014;&#x2030;&#x2020;Ë&#x2C6;ç&#x17D;&#x201C;â&#x2026;Ľé¤Ąĺ&#x2022;łŕť&#x203A;đ&#x201D;&#x2030;šË&#x2C6;â&#x201D; â&#x201E;&#x2019;đ?&#x2122;śä&#x2018;ĽŕŠ ŕ§Ą đ&#x2022;¤˛ä&#x2014;?á˘˝Đ&#x201E;ä&#x201D;&#x2019;Ç&#x201E;ĺ&#x2C6;§â&#x20AC;ŤÝ&#x2122;â&#x20AC;Źĺ &#x2030;á&#x152;¨á&#x2026;Śŕ¨Źä&#x2014;Žç&#x2C6;&#x2021;đ&#x201D;&#x201D;łç&#x20AC;&#x192;Ë&#x2C6;ä&#x161;źâ&#x20AC;?ŕ§&#x192; Ő&#x201C;đ&#x2018;&#x20AC;&#x201E;Đ ç&#x20AC;&#x192;ç&#x17D;&#x201C;â&#x2026;ĽÇ&#x201E;áĽšŕŚŤĐ ă&#x160; đ&#x2122;&#x2026;&#x2020;ă&#x2DC;¨áŹ&#x192;ŇŹÇ&#x201E;

CHRIST JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS IN MUNICH. KauďŹ ngerstraĂ&#x;e 5 Âˇ KauďŹ ngerstraĂ&#x;e 26 Âˇ Pasing Arcaden Âˇ 2x Olympia-Einkaufszentrum Âˇ Neuhauser StraĂ&#x;e 35 (near Stachus) Âˇ 2x pep Einkaufs-Center Perlach (Neuperlach) Âˇ Riem Arcaden Âˇ WeinstraĂ&#x;e 6 CHRIST Juweliere und Uhrmacher seit 1863 GmbH, Kabeler StraĂ&#x;e 4, 58099 Hagen | CHRIST service line 0180/5 32 10 98 (â&#x201A;Ź 0.14/min. from a German landline; mobile phone prices max. â&#x201A;Ź 0.42/min.) | *price on request | ** white, small internal characteristics, good cut

Only at CHRIST CHRIST DIAMONDS Ring* 585/- gold with rhodolites and brilliant cut diamonds, together approx. 0.15 ct.**

Passion. Made in Germany. The CHRIST DIAMONDS Collection. Experience diamonds in a whole new way at over 200 CHRIST specialty stores throughout Germany.

www.christ.de

Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬

德国指南

Welcome to Munich Even if you’ve visited Munich before, you may be surprised to discover how many innovative fne-jewellery designers call the city home – fnd out more in our feature on page 60. In this edition, we also take an indepth look at the Bavarian capital’s ever-more impressive creative scene (page 76) and talk to the founder of local label Oska about his antifashion approach to womenswear (page 68). SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you everything you need to know about your chosen destination: the top global brands, the local favourites you shouldn’t miss and the essential stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the website. And don’t forget to download the Global Blue mobile app! With this edition of SHOP, the Global Blue app and your Global Blue Card, you’re ready to enjoy the best that Munich has to ofer.

Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

/globalblue

Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Iceland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Naples Nuremburg Oslo Paris Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Tokyo Vienna Vilnius /globalblue

ILLUSTRATION: PING ZHU

Руководство Германия

oyster perpetual datejust l ady 31

Contributors

Gwyneth Holland Journalist and trend consultant Gwyneth Holland works with leading brands and agencies to discover the future and writes for global fashion and trend publications. She is one of the founders of new fashion trends service Unique Style Platform. globalblue.com

Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims contributes to publications that include the Financial Times, Independent, Observer, Wallpaper and Esquire. His latest book, 50 Years of British Style Culture, was published in 2012.

Verity Hogan History graduate Verity Hogan swapped writing about crinolines for more contemporary clothes when she moved to London to pursue journalism. She now works as SHOP’s city guide and lifestyle editor.

ILLUSTRATION: ANGUS GRIEG

Angus Greig Angus Greig created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Munich. He has previously been commissioned by GQ, the New York Times and the Independent, among others. His clever and vibrant artwork makes him the perfect choice for this cover, inspired by our feature about Munich’s well-established and innovative jewellery scene on page 60. It shows a tower of the city’s famous Frauenkirche cleverly merged with a hand holding a solitaire ring. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

fashion | lifestyle | beauty MUNICH AM MARIENPLATZ

Welcome to your GALERIA Kaufhof Pure lifestyle shopping – enjoy the perfect shopping adventure and look forward to top brands within our world of goods. Expect an exclusive selection with individual assortments from the worlds of fashion, cuisine and table culture, sport, toys, jewellery, leather and stationery, shoes, books, culinary delights and streetwear in our fashion store U.STYLE. The traditional department store chain celebrates 2014 its 135th anniversary with special offers and events. If you come from a country outside the EU, you can even enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof! We are looking forward to your visit! Your GALERIA Kaufhof München, Am Marienplatz

Please scan the QR-code with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Munich, Marienplatz.

GALERIA Kaufhof... ... makes you fall in love with Germany

GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

www.galeria.de

TOMMY HILFIGER STORE WEINSTRASSE 5 MÜNCHEN

T H E WO R L D ’S L A R G E S T

In the heart of Munich HIRMER offers fashion highlights spread over 9,000 m2 of shopping experience. On 6 ﬂoors you will ﬁnd the entire world of menswear with all leading brands:

We would be happy to assist you in English, Spanish, French, Russian and Arabic. Please contact us: +49/89/236 83-211 1 minute from car park Färbergraben

HIRMER GmbH & Co. KG, Kauﬁngerstraße 28, 80331 München Phone: 0 89/ 2 36 83-0, www.hirmer-muenchen.de Opening hours: Mo. til Fr.: 9.30 a. m. til 8 p. m., Sa.: 9 a. m. til 8 p. m. 24h online shop: www.hirmer.de, -Bahn, -Bahn: Marienplatz

Hirmer Menstyle

ME N ’S F A S H IO N S T O R E

Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Angus Greig Contributors Gwyneth Holland, Maria Kirchen-Hill, Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial intern Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Picture intern Rubi Ali Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Ai-Lun Huang, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Hibba Sayeed

James Morris

Online editor Kirsty Welsh Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh Online assistants Marina Nelson, Emily Scrivener Commercial editor Justine Clifton Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline Commercial artworking interns George Trinick, Ellie Vigors Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese translators Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Mengjiao Qu, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang Chinese interns Yunhan Fang, Tiantian Liu Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Assistant Russian editor Kira Savchenko Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound Project manager Bina Summan International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution and partnership manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy

GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Vice president sales central Europe Thorsten Lind Country manager Jörg Schönbeck Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Sales manager Pino Dufter Marketing specialist Mareike Dieckmann Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Tourismusamt München, Sendlingerstrasse 1, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2339 6500, muenchen-tourist.de

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

Beauty and more … visit Europe’s No. 1 perfumery! W E W I L L B E P L E A S E D TO W E LC O M E YO U TO T H E D O U G L A S W O R L D O F B E AU T Y I N M U N I C H : • Kaufingerstraße 12, 089 - 23241153 • Weinstraße 7, 089 - 25542771 • Theatinerstraße 40, 089 - 295293 • Neuhauser Straße 3, 089 - 149024700

Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest assortment of leading beauty brands â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories. With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.

Contents

PHOTO: COLETTA EHRMANN

p.60

P ROd U C T S 34 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Munich this season 38 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N EwS 48 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Munich 50 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

F E AT U R E S 60 Cover Story: Sparkling Achievements The Bavarian capital is home to some of Germany’s most innovative fne-jewellery designers, as Gwyneth Holland explains 68 The New Cool Oska founder Helmut Bayer talks about the Munich-based company’s refreshing approach to womenswear with Josh Sims 76 On The Rise Munich’s ever-more exciting cultural scene is attracting attention in Germany and beyond – and with good reason, says Chris Porter

Above: twisted bangles and rings from Munich jeweller Cocii’s 2014 collection

Contents E x pE R i E ncE 84 Café Society Munich’s cafés ofer superb cofee and cakes in wonderfully varied settings, says verity Hogan 88 Stay In Style sHOp’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels Gu i dE 93 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Munich, plus useful information for visitors 104 My Neighbourhood Justin leone takes sHOp on a tour of Munich’s schwabing district

EssEnti a ls 114 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping t R a n s l at i On s 117 Русский Перевод 123 美文翻译 129 sOu v E n i R 130 How To Shop Tax Free the essential item to bring home

E n gl i s h | Р ус с к и й | 中文

Online

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

GET SOCIAL PHOTO: Melanie Galea/THesTreeTMuse.iT

FASHION

COMPETITIONS

Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-theminute shopping tips and insider information.

/GlobalBlue /GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

FOS SIL STORES MUNICH OLYMPIA-EINK AUFSZENTRUM 路 PASING ARCADEN WWW.FOS SIL .COM

shop calvinklein.com Rosenstrasse 6 - M端nchen

34 | P RO D U C T S

Check Out

CHIC TO A T Part of the T range, these dainty bangles are a highlight of the latest collection from world-renowned jeweller Tifany. Available in a range of materials, including rose, yellow and white gold, the bracelets are available in a minimalist style or adorned with the label’s famous diamonds. Founded in New York in 1837, Tifany is one of the world’s most respected jewellery makers and has always been at the forefront of design developments. Its design team, committed to stunning, luxurious Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

jewellery, has created pioneering pieces inspired by modern art and introduced unusual precious metals and gems to the range. Buy one of these beautiful bangles and take it home in the Tifany box; in trademark blue tied with a white ribbon, it has become a symbol of quality and style in itself. hl Tifany & Co T Collection bracelets, €1,050 without diamonds, €2,900 with diamonds, Tifany & Co, Residenzstrasse 11, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 290 0430, tifany.com * for map go to page 101

MUNICH MAXIMILIANSTRASSE 25

+ 4 9 8 9 219 9 6 5 0 E S C A DA . C O M

München, Bahnhofplatz Karstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-Straße 2 | 45133 Essen

Fashion, Lifestyle & more Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience. Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers. Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey through our store Karstadt M端nchen.

38 | P RO D U C T S

ALL INCLUSIVE From parkas to pens, hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s everything you need for the perfect journey

PHOTOS: (1) KILIAN BISHOP; (3) SPecKHArd PHOTOgrAPHy

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

S H O P | 39

1. Hermès bag, €2,200, Hermès, Maximilianstrasse 22, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 291 9703, hermes.com

4. Marc O’Polo jeans, €199.90, Marc O’Polo, Theatinerstrasse 11, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2554 6690, marc-o-polo.com

2. Closed sweater, €279, Closed, Brienner Strasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2166 5507, closed.com

5. Diesel parka, €330, Oberpollinger, Neuhauser Strasse 18, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 290230, diesel.com

3. Victorinox suitcase, €345, Galeria Kaufhof, Kaufngerstrasse 1-5, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 231851, victorinox.com

6. Ermenegildo Zegna boots, €595, Ermenegildo Zegna, Maximilianstrasse 11-15, 80593 Munich, +49 (0)89 2429 7685, zegna.com

globalblue.com

7. Mercedes-Benz eau de toilette, €69.95 for 120ml, Douglas, Kaufngerstrasse 12, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2324 1153, perfume.mercedes-benz.com 8. Montblanc Meisterstück 90 Years fountain pen, €750, Montblanc, Maximilianstrasse 14, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2554 6706, montblanc.com

40 | P RO D U C T S

RED ALERT

Warm yourself with bright scarlet and rich maroons

1. Bally shoes, €650, Bally, Maximilianstrasse 11-15, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 290 8240, bally.com

3. Etro necklace, €394, Etro, Maximilianstrasse 11-15, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2322 5656, etro.com

2. Michael Kors lipstick, €27.99, Douglas, Kaufngerstrasse 12, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2324 1153, michaelkors.com

4. Jimmy Choo handbag, €995, Jimmy Choo, Maximilianstrasse 16, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 5007 7960, jimmychoo.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

5. Burberry dress, €2,495, Burberry, Perusastrasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 226564, burberry.com

PHOTO: (2) RicHaRd PieRce

FA SHION BE AU T Y LIFEST YLE MUSIC

FA SHI O N & AC C E S S O R IE S HU G O B O S S , C A LV IN K L E IN JE A N S , P IE R R E B A L M A IN , M MI S S O NI , M C M , L O N G C H A MP, S E E B Y C HL O É , MI C H A E L KO R S , P HIL O S O P H Y DI A L BE R TA F E R R E T T I , R A L P H L A UR E N , A R M A NI C O L L E Z I O NI BE AU T Y K IL I A N , B Y R E D O, L A UR A ME R C IE R , J O M A L O NE , L A D UR É E , F O R N A S E T T I P R O F UMI , 3 L A B, A E S O P, DIP T Y Q UE , A C Q U A DI PA R M A , P R O F UMUM R O M A , M O L EC UL E

DEPA R T MEN T S TORE

M A RIENP L AT Z

MUNICH

W W W.LUD W IGBECK .C OM

42 | P RO D U C T S

HOT TOFFEE Keep warm and cosy this winter with knitted pieces in caramel colours 2 1

1. Mango jacket, €139.99, Mango, Neuhauser Strasse 1, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2307 6804, mango.com

3. Bulgari handbag, price on request, Bulgari, Maximilianstrasse 17, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 212 1760, bulgari.com

2. Louis Vuitton boots, €1,310, Louis Vuitton, Residenzstrasse 2, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 5589 38000, louisvuitton.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

4. Cos skirt, €89, Cos, Weinstrasse 3, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2102 1774, cosstores.com

PHOTOS: (2) LB PrOducTiOn/LaurenT Bremaud; (3) maurO FaBBiO STudiO

44 | P RO D U C T S

THINK SMART Printed trousers and a ftted tuxedo jacket give a new spin to formal dressing

1. Escada trousers, €479, Escada, Maximilianstrasse 25, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 219 9650, escada.com

3. Swarovski necklace, €295, Swarovski, Marienplatz 20, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2303 2650, swarovski.com

2. Marc Cain jacket, €329, Marc Cain, Odeonsplatz 12, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 212 1250, marc-cain.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

4. Porsche Design handbag, €1,890, Porsche Design, Dienerstrasse 17, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2101 9735, porsche-design.com

windsor.de

windsor. Store, DienerstraĂ&#x;e 16, Munich

48 | N E W S

Shop Window

FENDI FIRST Italian fashion house Fendi has chosen Munich as the location for its frst boutique in Germany. The two-storey boutique’s architectural concept represents the coming together of the brand’s Roman heritage with the modern design for which the label has become known. The interior makes use of classic materials, including travertine, leather, bronze and stone, but dotted around the store are the interactive elements that creative director Karl Lagerfeld so loves. Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

Photographs and sketches give an insight into his design process, while tablets display the incredible workmanship that goes into the manufacture of Fendi’s beautiful clothing and accessories. As well as the label’s ready-to-wear, the store also has a spacious leather goods and accessories area, plus a whole wall dedicated to Fendi’s famous Baguette bag. hl Fendi, Maximilianstrasse 12-14, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2370 8430, fendi.com * for map go to page 101

S H O P | 49

Above: one wall of the store is dedicated to a display of Fendi Baguete bags

50 | N E W S

MADE FOR WALKING Founded in Germany in 1888, Lloyd is one of the nation’s oldest shoemakers. The brand is committed to perfect ft and great design, and uses only the best materials to make its wide range of men’s and women’s shoes. Though heritage is important to the brand, Lloyd is also committed to modernity, and each seasonal ofering is subtly trend-led. These caramelcoloured worker-style boots, crafted in sturdy leather that looks better the more it’s worn, embrace the 1990s revival trend that is sweeping the fashion world. The inner padding and chunky sole are endlessly practical as well as stylish. Finished with Lloyd’s trademark red stripe on the heel, these boots are sure to serve you well as you explore what Munich has to ofer. hl

A MUNICH ORIGINAL Munich is flled with independent shops waiting to be discovered, and fans of interiors should be sure to pay a visit to Schlicht. Owner Alexander Schlicht has a wonderful eye for homeware and has flled his store with a delightful range of eclectic pieces. From kitsch Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

Lloyd, Terminal 2, Level 5 (Non-Schengen), Munich Airport, 85326 Munich, +49 (0)89 9705 2940, lloyd.de

furniture to vintage ornaments, not to mention everything in between, Schlicht’s taste is bold yet somehow refned. We defy you to leave empty handed. mkh Schlicht, Georgenstrasse 70, 80799 Munich, +49 (0)89 2777 4060, schlicht-designmoebel.de

GANT STORES MÜNCHEN FL AGSHIP STORE HOFSTAT T – SENDLINGER STRASSE 10 & AIRPORT MÜNCHEN TERMINAL 2 EBENE 4 AIRSIDE W W W.GANT.COM

TOM TAILOR STORE MÜNCHEN, HOFSTATT, SENDLINGER STRASSE / FÄRBERGRABEN 16

N E W S | 53

GEM GENIUS

PHOTO: © gOrunway.cOm

Having celebrated its 125th anniversary in 2013, Swiss brand Bucherer is one of the oldest purveyors of watches and fne jewellery in Germany. Handed down through three generations of the eponymous family, the house draws on its rich heritage for each design, incorporating its traditions and knowledge. Experts in precious metals and gems, Bucherer creates pieces of jewellery which are made to last and to be loved. These candy-coloured earrings balance youthful shades with a timeless design. As with every Bucherer creation, the detailing is exquisite; fve diamonds adorn the link between the pink and purple gems, adding a lightrefecting fnishing touch. hl Bucherer, Neuhauser Strasse 2, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 298283, bucherer.com * for map go to page 96

WINTER COOL Its eponymous designer may have left, but the same cannot be said for the cool, minimalist style that made Jil Sander famous. The frst showing from the label’s new design collective eschews the moody shades so often chosen for autumn/winter in favour of a palette of icy blues and the occasional pop of pastel pink or purple. Pastels for winter may not be a new idea, but in the pared-back and easy silhouette of Jil Sander they seem fresh and perfectly right for now. Elsewhere, the darker and more robust colours used in a range of dresses should please even Sander-sceptics. There’s a reason Jil Sander has become a byword for simple elegance, and this collection proves it once again. mkh Jil Sander, Maximilianstrasse 30, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 211 2250, jilsander.com * for map go to page 101 globalblue.com

54 | N E W S

WOOLLEN WONDERS From its creation in 1959 in a small factory in Italy, Stefanel has been known for its beautiful knitwear. Founded by Carlo Stefanel and now in the hands of his son Giuseppe, the label has gained a sound reputation for knitted pieces of the highest quality. The new women’s collection is modern and stylish, using clean lines and simple colourways to great efect. Knitwear is still at the heart of the label, with everything from warm winter coats to matching separates realised in the softest cashmere. mkh Stefanel, Theatinerstrasse 35, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2420 8589, stefanel.com * for map go to page 102

It would be fair to say that Kim-Eva Wempe has jewellery in her blood. Born into the Wempe family, which owns one of Germany’s leading fne jewellery and watch companies, she grew up in a world of precious metals and beautiful stones. Driven by the desire to keep her family’s business fresh and modern, she introduced her own line of jewellery, By Kim. Ofering beautiful and luxurious pieces inspired by and created for powerful and sensual women, the By Kim line skilfully plays with shapes and materials to create jewellery with a contemporary elegance. This white gold necklace, subtly highlighted with blue and turquoise gems, is one of the season’s highlights. hl Wempe, Weinstrasse 11, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 242 3806, wempe.de * for map go to page 99 Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

PHOTOS: (FROM TOP) MaTTHiaS HOFFMann; DaniELE OBERRaUCH/iMaXTREE.COM

BORN TO SHINE

Photographed in La Roca Village. A member of the Chic Outlet Shopping ® Collection of Villages.

The world’s greatest designer boutiques. All in one place. With up to 60% off * and tax-free shopping. ESCADA BALLY FURLA PHILIPP PLEIN

BALDININI BOGNER AIGNER OUTLET TRUSSARDI JEANS TUMI AND MANY MORE

International VIP offer – 10% savings. Present this voucher at Tourist Information in Ingolstadt Village and save 10%† on the outlet price.

LIKE SHOPPING. BUT BETTER.

IngolstadtVillage.com EUROPE

LONDON

DUBLIN

PARIS

MADRID

BARCELONA

MILAN

BRUSSELS

FRANKFURT

MUNICH

CHINA

SUZHOU

SHANGHAI

(OPENING AUTUMN 2015)

56 | N E W S

SCENT OF THE ETHICAL ELEGANCE CITY Make your way to Douglas perfumery to discover the newly launched limitededition Flash London Club fragrance from Jimmy Choo. Creative director Sandra Choi was inspired by the vibrant nightlife of the UK capital, and recruited perfume genius Christine Nagel to help her create the scent. Feminine and multi-faceted, the perfume has top notes of lychee and bergamot, accents of citrus, and the invigorating fragrance of fresh fowers. Designed to be worn in the evening, the scent will develop throughout the night, the fresh foral notes becoming less prominent so that the richer base notes can be fully appreciated. hl Douglas, Weinstrasse 7, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 255 4276, douglas.de * for map go to page 99

As part of its commitment to become a wholly ethical company, Swiss luxury brand Chopard set up The Journey, a project that aims to create a fair and sustainable environment for the mining of gold. After successfully introducing a line of ‘Fairmined’ jewellery, Chopard has now unveiled the world’s frst watch made from this ethical gold. The LUC Tourbillon QF Fairmined is an elegant and luxurious watch boasting the same standards of design, quality and advanced technology that Chopard guarantees for every one of its timepieces. The only diference is the guarantee that the gold was mined safely, sustainably and by miners who were paid a fair wage. hl Chopard, Maximilianstrasse 11, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 224343, chopard.com * for map go to page 101

SHOP THE WORLD

Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trip. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store and can also be downloaded for offine use enabling you to create your own itinerary. You can also sign up for the Global Blue Card and, once you’re logged in the My Tax Refund wallet becomes available, allowing you to track

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

pending refunds. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase you make in every different country you visit. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

Von bis In unserer Parfümerie fnden Sie die EXKLUSIVSTEN DÜFTE aus über 100 MARKEN zu den BESTEN PREISEN.

You will fnd the MOST EXCLUSIVE FRAGRANCES from over 100 BRANDS at the BEST PRICES in our perfume department. 在我们的香水店中,您可以找到最独特的香水,超过 100 个品牌,而且价格最优惠。

Ihre Müller-Fliliale mit Parfümerie fnden Sie hier:

You can fnd your Müller store with perfume department here:

Elisenhof, Prielmayerstrasse 3

Müller-Fliliale 香水店地址如下，恭候您的光顾：

Sonnenstraße 2

Tal 23-25

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

888

888 /

888

Above: English caption xxxxx qui ofciducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi quis cum facil

Sparkling achievements

PHOTO: COLETTA EHRMANN

129

117 /

123

When it comes to fne jewellery, the Bavarian capital is home to some of Germany’s most innovative designers, as Gwyneth Holland explains Buoyed by Munich’s history of craftsmanship and a thriving gallery district, the city’s wealth of innovative jewellers is no longer its best-kept secret. As designer Saskia Diez says, ‘Some of the most infuential names are living and working in Munich. Maybe this is by accident, but maybe it’s also because Munich – and its surroundings – is full of companies and craft workshops, of possibilities to develop things.’ The design talent ranges from those who painstakingly craft bespoke pieces that are wearable works of art to creators of bold modern jewellery. Hemmerle, one of the city’s oldest jewellers, is also one of its most innovative. Opened in 1893, when brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle took over an existing goldsmiths’ business to start making medals, the house is now run by the fourth generation of the family. It specialises in hand-crafted bespoke pieces, created by its 15 in-house goldsmiths. The company’s most recent designs play on the wonder and weirdness of nature, from a eucalyptus-branch brooch rendered in diamonds, brass, bronze and gold, to tiny pavé diamond aubergines and a life-size tarantula made of giant conch pearls, sapphires and white, yellow and brown diamonds. With such intricate designs, it seems appropriate that Hemmerle’s pieces have cropped up in galleries Opposite: twisted bangles and rings from Cocii’s 2014 collection

KONEN ofers inspiration, lifestyle, fashion and more for women, men and kids. Discover our assortment on 6 floors. You will fnd KONEN in the city center of Munich, next to the newly created pedestrian area „Sendlinger Straße“. Our customer service for you: express alterations and TaxFree shopping. We are looking forward to your visit!

KONEN Sendlinger Straße 3

80331 München

Mo–Sa 10–20 Uhr www.konen.de

S H O P | 63

Munich’s wealth of innovative jewellers is no longer its bestkept secret

Above (clockwise from lef): Hemmerle Tarantula brooch, made of horse conch pearl, umba sapphires, brown diamonds and yellow gold; Saskia Diez Stripe collection pearl ring; Christian and Stefan Hemmerle

PHOTO: STefan KOrTe COurTeSy Hemmerle

and art museums all over the world, whether at the recent exhibition devoted to pearls at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum or the Museum of Islamic Art in Doha, Qatar. But Munich’s jewellery is not just about opulent embellishments. With a graphic, strong and sensual style, Saskia Diez designs for independent and intelligent women. Diez started her craft by designing pieces for a competition about women and sports: bracelets that looked like jewellery but served as wrist weights. ‘I had the feeling that I could contribute something to the world of jewellery that was not there already, a kind of jewellery for women like me,’ says Diez. Her designs reference ideas of masculinity and femininity, movement and the body, with each piece reinterpreting traditions in a modern way. The strong, subtle forms of Diez’s designs have an understated luxury, from the bold, geometric use of the pearls in her Stripe collection, where they are paired with neatly curved matt gold, to the long silver-chain earrings of her Fringe collection. Diez is now working on the launch of her frst fagship store outside Germany, designing everything from staf uniforms to the interiors. Meanwhile, Cada (which stands for Creativity, Arts, Design and Anarchy) showcases the edgy, quirky side of Munich’s fne-jewellery scene. The brand, launched by

64 | F E AT U R E S

PHOTO: Julian Baumann

The mix of modern sleekness with precious materials creates pieces that fit in with the way people wear jewellery now Annette and Herbert Kopp in 1986, combines a contemporary sleekness with precious materials and craftsmanship. The result is items that ft in with the way people wear jewellery now – statement pieces mixed with subtle slivers of silver and gold, and precious materials worn as casually as costume jewellery. Herbert Kopp references art, architecture, music and subcultures to inspire his signature designs. Alongside its witty Love collection, Cada’s key piece for autumn/winter 2014/15 is the Ixxo ring, an elegantly angular band of white pavé diamonds set in white gold. After working for several jewellers, Claudia Lassner started her Cocii brand by Above (from top): Cada ixxo rings; designer Saskia Diez; Cada anarchy pendant

SCANDINAVIAN DESIGN for EVERYONE E CC O S t o re M u n ic h – S e nd linge r S t rasse 7 - + 4 9 (0) 89 232 49 62 1 E CC O S t o re N u re m b e rg – B reit e Gasse 7 8 - + 4 9 (0) 91 1 2 029 68 4 E CC O O u tl e t S alz b u rg - M cAr t hurGlen Designer Out let S alzburg Ka s e r n e n s t ras s e 1 - Wals - Him mel reic h – Aust ria – + 43 (0 ) 66 2 8 52 219

ecco.com

PHOTO: CHriSTiane BeCHler FOTOdeSign

66 | F E AT U R E S

‘Design starts with ideas, and the culture in Munich really promotes new ideas’ – Cocii founder Claudia Lassner experimenting with designs in the metal workshop of an ex-boyfriend. Lassner describes her handmade silver and gold jewellery as delicate and restrained, with a touch of glamour. ‘It’s an eclectic mixture Above: Cocii store on Schraudolphstrasse

of diferent infuences,’ she says. ‘The recent 2014 collection could be described as clean, straight, art deco-style meets old-school hip-hop, or Coco Chanel bumps into Kanye West.’ Lassner points to her big twisted Creole earrings as a key piece, but her next collection will see a cooler monochrome look, with hints of her favourite decade, the 1920s. Like her fellow jewellers, Lassner thrives on the creative culture of Munich, and her atelier and shop on Schraudolphstrasse has become a magnet for the city’s design talent. ‘Munich has a small but unique scene, with many young, talented and ambitious creatives,’ Lassner says. ‘I’m always happy walking through the streets and discovering new things. Design starts with ideas, and the culture in Munich really promotes new ideas.’ hemmerle.com, saskia-diez.com, cada-schmuck.de, cocii.de

WELCOME TO BETTENRID YOUR SPECIALIST FOR RELAXING SLEEP AND CREATIVE HOME DECORATING IDEAS.

MUNICH: THEATINERSTRASSE 47 NEUHAUSER STRASSE 12 P. +49 (0)89.211 010 WWW.BETTENRID.DE

PHOTO: CHrisTian Krinninger/CriKri.De

The Munich-based Oska has gone from strength to strength thanks to its refreshing approach to womenswear.

New Josh Sims talks to founder Helmut Bayer about his recipe for success

Cool

MÜnchen:

Kaufingerstrasse

neuperlach

OlyMpia

pasing arcaden

rieM arcaden

S H O P | 71

PHOTOs: CHrisTian Krinninger/CriKri.De

t is a €25m business with some 70 stores around the world. Yet German clothing company Oska fies decidedly under the radar, having won a cult following among women to whom most of the fashion world pays little regard. ‘I’d say our average customer is 50 upwards – and when you’re that age it’s not easy to fnd beautiful clothes that don’t make you look silly, ancient or too young,’ says Helmut Bayer, who founded Oska in 1997 with a couple of partners (long since bought out) and now runs the company, with colleague Stefanie Schmitz as designer. ‘That puts us in a particular niche.’ It’s one Bayer has been careful to cultivate, perhaps chiefy through a close understanding of his customer: the newly liberated late middle-aged woman, free of children, perhaps, Bayer half-jokes, divorced and free of husbands, reborn and ‘ready to start a new life’, as he puts it. ‘I’ve seen that pattern with women I know closely over and over. Women go through far more fundamental changes in their lives than men, and they get a very clear idea about what they want in life.’

128

119 /

124

And, it seems, in the way they dress. No Oska garment, for example, has any exterior branding. ‘You might love it when you’re young – look at Abercrombie & Fitch – but when you get to a certain age you don’t want to buy into a brand but to express your own personality,’ says Bayer. ‘The older you get, the more individual you get, the more opinionated you get.’ Similarly, seasonal shifts in style are not what it’s about either. If you want catwalk fashion, go elsewhere: each season at Oska is, as Bayer puts it, ‘not a new book but a new chapter for the on-going book’. Previous: Oska autumn/winter 2014/15

Each collection is based frst and foremost on fabrics: their colour, texture and drape. Oska works closely with Pro Len, its main manufacturer in Prostejov in the Czech Republic; not only does the region have its own textiles heritage, but its position allows it to source materials that manufacturers in other parts of Europe struggle to fnd, especially high-quality leather, hemp and silk. Oska also has its own dedicated dyeing works there, which allows for complex garment-dyeing (resulting in a much richer hue that fades naturally over time) and makes what it does very hard to copy. Consequently, Bayer concedes, Oska’s are not the cheapest of clothes – but, he implies, you get what you pay for. Certainly, although Bayer insists his Munich-based company is a fashion business, much of Oska’s approach seems to cut against the usual industry grain. ‘It’s quite an old-fashioned approach to making clothes, I suppose, and certainly very unlike the highstreet volume brands of today,’ says the onetime fashion sales agency rep, who started the company because he’d grown despondent over the poor quality of the clothing he was expected to sell. ‘Each collection just grows out of the fabric. Really, the power in the fashion world Previous (from lef): Oska founder Helmut Bayer; the brand’s autumn/winter 2014/15 collection

PHOTO: CHriSTiAn Krinninger /CriKri.De

PHOTO: AnTOn FillMAnn

72 | F E AT U R E S

lies with fabric manufacturers, not designers. You don’t get quality clothing out of bad fabric any more than you get a quality car out of bad steel. The fabric is crucial to how a garment can be cut, how it washes, how it ages. If the clothes are German in any sense, it’s in the emphasis on quality and reliability.’ Above (from lef): Oska’s Munich store; designer Stefanie Schmitz

It’s more fun, when it’s tax-free!

Grand Gourmet

Life tastes great.

Premium One Cromargan®

Knife set 5 pieces instead of 384,75*

Cookware set 4 pieces

289,–

instead of 496,95*

399,– *sum of the prices

Made in Germany

WMF Stores München

Weinstraße 4, Tel. 089/296751

www.wmf.de/flialen

Willy-Brandt-Platz 5, Tel. 089/93094465

Ollenhauer Straße 6, Tel. 089/62837175 Hanauer Straße 68, Tel. 089/14010676 Pasinger Bahnhofplatz 5, Tel. 089/82000475

S H O P | 75

Bayer also likes his clothing to last from the standpoint of both ethics (‘I couldn’t produce in Bangladesh, for example – I couldn’t live with myself,’ he says) and sustainability, although it is not something he often stresses. ‘Buying “green” is only moving forward a little. The bottom line is that actually we should just buy less. We shouldn’t buy it at all. But who wants to hear that? And it’s not great for business either,’ he laughs.

PHOTO: CHrisTian Krinninger/CriKri.De

Oska flies decidedly under the radar, having won a cult following among women to whom most of the fashion world pays little regard

And business is good: although he would like to double turnover in the next fve years, as it would make Oska’s necessarily high development and prototyping costs easier to absorb, he does expect growth of around 50%, which seems a comfortable ambition for such a smartly targeted company. In the circumstances, one wonders why Bayer hasn’t tried his successful formula on menswear, too, beyond the extant capsule collection. After all, that was the original idea, back when the company started out being called Oskar. ‘We’ve tried a bit but it doesn’t work as well,’ he says. ‘Men at the same stage in their lives tend to want very simple designs, to stick with what they know and buy the same thing over and over. I’m like that – and I’m in the fashion business.’ oska.com Above (from top): Oska autumn/winter 2014/15; mother-of-pearl butons at Pro Len, which makes many of Oska’s clothes

76 | F E AT U R E S

127

120 /

On the 125

Above: three of Munich’s leading creatives, Niels Jäger, Stefen Werner and Sascha Arnold

S H O P | 77

Rise

Munich’s ever-more appealing cultural scene is attracting attention in Germany and beyond. Chris Porter travels to the city to fnd out what’s enticing the world’s creatives When art writer Emmy Horstkamp moved to Munich, she knew she had found a city with cultural potential. ‘Munich has a strong history of founding art movements. In fact, it has this deep cultural aspect, but doesn’t shout about it. Really Munich needs to let people know

that there is a lot going on in the city, but it’s reserved in that very German way,’ she says. Since her arrival, she has founded Munich Artists, an organisation which – as the name suggests – helps to bring Munich artists together, both to share ideas and organise

78 | F E AT U R E S

collaborations and installations. Perhaps more surprising, however, is that Horstkamp moved to Munich from Berlin. After all, Berlin is often sold – ‘hyped’ and ‘with a lot of spin’, as Horstkamp prefers to put it – as Germany’s epicentre of cultural happenings and all things cool. But that may not be the big picture, and certainly does not explain why more serious galleries are now leaving Berlin for Munich, according to Horstkamp. ‘Munich is very cosmopolitan, but doesn’t think of itself as being so,’ she adds. ‘But, more than that, Berlin is relatively inexpensive to live in, which is good for upand-coming creative talent. But if you want strong fnancial liquidity, you have to be in Munich because there are people here actually ready to buy the art.’ Certainly the creative industries are fourishing in Munich. The city has a flm school, for example. In fashion, the Supreme Group runs trade fairs for menswear and womenswear but also, more unusually, for body and beachwear, and for childrenswear. Munich’s fashion week is in the ascendant, introducing local and international design talent such as Nör Denmark, Oblique, Petra

Dieler, Lilith, Lunn and Hindahl & Skudelny, among some 80 labels, to a wider audience; Esmod, Munich’s fashion school, is similarly winning a reputation as the nation’s premier generator of design talent. Then there is Schmuck, an annual event that focuses on the display and promotion of art jewellery, which is designed, as art jeweller Kinga Zobel puts it, ‘to reach young people who might not get in touch with art

Above: Munich Artists Doodling guerilla-art project coasters; Munich Artists founder Emmy Horstkamp

PHOTO: BOrriS Mayer/BO-PHOTO.De

80 | F E AT U R E S

‘Munich has this deep cultural aspect, but doesn’t shout about it’ – Emmy Horstkamp, Munich Artists

Above (from top): Supreme Group Kids collection; Petra Diehler shoe

jewellery by the conventional presentation in museums or galleries’. Indeed, as Horstkamp points out, it speaks volumes that this worldleading, pioneering event is barely known outside Munich and the more avant-garde jewellery trade. Small wonder, with so much going on and so much money to back it – the city is one of Germany’s wealthiest – that the creative scene is seeing a parallel rise in the number of hipster shops, bars and diverse restaurants: newcomers along the lines of Harvest and Charlie sit alongside institutions such as Kafer and Schumann’s. ‘Yes, Berlin may be the cool city, the one that gets compared to London and New York, but Munich is catching up and becoming more cutting edge,’ says Niels Jäger, founder of the Bob Beaman Club, one of the city’s leading live music venues. He’s also behind the newly opened Flushing Meadows Hotel & Bar, where each room is designed by a diferent Munich creative talent. ‘People come here because it’s not so hectic, but also because there’s money here, which encourages the launch of creative businesses. But youth has, of course, also been a key driver of culture in any city, and last year

The perfect shopping companion

The Global Blue Tax Free app puts everything you need to shop, save money and navigate the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best shopping cities in the palm of your hand. Search for stores worldwide where you can shop tax free, create your own itinerary and use our tools to calculate how much you can save with each shopping trip. Shopping tax free has never been easier. Download the app from: Apple App Store Android Play Store

www.globalblue.com

PHOTO: DAniel SCHvArCz

S H O P | 83

saw the biggest infux of students to Munich to date.’ But what will save Munich from becoming just a rich man’s Berlin is, Jäger argues, a crucial and unusual combination of factors. The city’s location, close to both major lakes and the Alps, means it also draws the sporty rather than just the edgy crowd; and the local climate means the city’s tempo is more bright and upbeat than downbeat and urban. ‘Munich is known as the most northern city of Italy, because when the sun comes out everyone puts their sunglasses on and just sits around outside drinking cofee,’ Jäger jokes. But, perhaps even more infuential than these is the fact that Munich, it seems, prefers to stay resolutely German. ‘Berlin has a sense of being an international city, whereas Munich is very keen on its traditions – bierkellers, lederhosen and all that – so there’s always that counter to becoming too trendy. And that’s a good thing.’

Above: Bob Beaman Club; Flushing Meadows lof studio designed by Cathal McAteer

84 | E X P E R I E N C E

Café SoCiety Munich’s café culture is rich in variety, ofering the highest-quality cofee and a range of sweet treats in a wide array of environments. Verity Hogan explores a selection of the very best

Munich’s diverse café culture ofers something for everyone, from traditional Italianinfuenced cofee houses to modern US-style cafés with an extensive range of speciality drinks. The origin of Munich’s relationship with cofee remains something of a mystery, but it is thought that Italian cofee culture frst arrived in the city with the marriage of Princess Henriette Adelaide of Savoy to Maximilian I, Elector of Bavaria. The frst ofcial cofeehouse license was granted to Giovanni Pietro Sardi in 1775 and there’s been a café on the same site ever since. The city’s cafés can have an air of exclusivity, particularly those located around Marienplatz and Odeonsplatz, while arts enthusiasts are sure to feel at home in Munich’s many literary-inspired haunts. The majority of cafés are open from 10am, serving breakfast as well as an all-day menu of hot food. The drink of choice for residents is a black flter cofee served in a häferl, a mug containing double or triple the amount of a standard cup. Munich’s cofee shops are popular year round, ofering cosy interiors in which to hide away throughout the winter and sunlit terraces for warmer days. globalblue.com

S H O P | 85

PHOTO: Dirk HOlsT

C H O C O l AT E r I E BElUGA A cosy café in the heart of Munich’s old town, Chocolaterie Beluga serves some of the city’s fnest handmade chocolates. The café prides itself on ofering exemplary service, which complements its equally high-quality products. Alongside its range of handmade pralines, the café ofers homemade ice cream and 30 diferent varieties of hot chocolate. The cofee is similarly noteworthy, made using beans that have been gently roasted for 20 minutes to produce a smooth, aromatic espresso. Chocolaterie Beluga, Vitualienmarkt 6, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2323 1577, chocolateriebeluga.de

86 | E X P E R I E N C E

W i r M aCh e N Cu PC a k e s

The décor of Wir Machen Cupcakes is sure to impress; roses creep up the café walls, cupcakes are suspended from the ceiling in glass bell jars and details such as lace doilies on tables provide a touch of nostalgia. since opening in 2010, the café has become known for the excellence of its cupcakes, baked by hand and produced in a variety of favours ranging from rich red velvet and Black forest cherry to refreshing lemon and vanilla. The regular workshops allow visitors to perfect their own cupcakes, as well as try making the café’s other specialities: cake pops and cinnamon rolls. Wir Machen Cupcakes, utzschneiderstrasse 12, 80469 Munich, +49 (0)89 3795 4738, wirmachencupcakes.de

Wa s h & C o f f e e Part café and part laundrette, Wash & Cofee is one of Munich’s quirkier venues. The décor is bright, clean and minimalist, although the lounge-like feel of the seating area encourages relaxation, whether waiting for a load of washing or simply catching up with friends. The café’s menu of hearty bagels, healthy globalblue.com

salads and sweet mufns has helped cement the café’s reputation as a popular hangout spot, while the drinks menu runs the gamut from cappuccinos to chai lattes and fresh fruit smoothies. Wash & Cofee, klenzestrasse 1, 80469 Munich, +49 (0)89 2166 7844, wash-cofee.com

S H O P | 87

Café LuiTPoLd

despite being one of Munich’s oldest cofee shops, Café Luitpold now has one of the city’s most contemporary décors thanks to a recent renovation. architects demmel und hadler designed the cosmopolitan interior, whose columns and cofered ceiling nod to the café’s heritage. alongside high-quality cofee, the menu is flled with homemade delicacies including cakes, chocolates and trufes. Look out for the café’s regular events, ranging from specialist talks and live music performances to hands-on chocolatemaking workshops. Café Luitpold, Brienner strasse 11, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 242 8750, cafe-luitpold.de

Café Marais Named after one of the most charming districts of Paris, Café Marais ofers a suitably chic interior décor, featuring traditional wooden foors and high ceilings. The space also acts as an antique store; all of the furniture is available to buy and there is also a range of giftware for those looking

for a smaller souvenir. The café is known locally for producing exquisite homemade cake: be sure to try a slice of its tarte tatin or chocolate gateau. The breakfast menu is equally impressive, ofering everything from cereal and fresh fruits to savoury paninis. Café Marais, Parkstrasse 2, 80339 Munich, +49 (0)89 5009 4552, cafe-marais.de

88 | E X P E R I E N C E

stay in style The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fnest hotels have locations in the most sought-after city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa facilities ofering state-of-theart treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

Crowne PLaza HeLsinki One of Helsinkiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading business hotels, the Crowne Plaza ofers an array of amenities. Facilities range from the extensive Forever health club and day spa with its swimming pool and sauna to Macu restaurant, which serves a menu of fne Mediterranean cuisine. globalblue.com

Book a Club room or suite to access the Club Lounge, which ofers complimentary soft drinks and snacks throughout the day and a glass of wine between 6pm and 8pm. Every imaginable detail has been thought of; those struggling to sleep will even fnd insomnia remedies by This Works in the Junior Suites. Crowne Plaza Helsinki, Mannerheimintie 50, 00260 Helsinki, +358 (0)9 2521 0000, crowneplaza-helsinki.f

S H O P | 89

BuddHa-Bar HoteL

PHOTO: Max LiTTera

Located in the heart of Prague, the BuddhaBar Hotel brings oriental style and a touch of Eastern mysticism to the Czech capital. Decorated in shades of red and gold, each room features a black jacaranda bed and a headboard emblazoned with a dragon design, while some suites also have their own private

Japanese garden. Be sure to visit one of the hotel’s restaurants during your stay; opt for the Siddharta Café to sample a menu based on the fve Chinese elements, or admire the giant Buddha statue which overlooks diners at the pan-Asian Buddha-Bar Restaurant. Buddha-Bar Hotel, Jakubská 8, 110 00 Prague, +420 221 776300, buddhabarhotelprague.com

La Griffe Bringing modern glamour to the historic centre of Rome, La Grife is one of the city’s most luxurious hotels. It ofers the perfect combination of modern design and a healthy appreciation for tradition; it is set within an elegant, fully restored 19th-century building yet features a sleek, modern interior dominated by the colour red. Despite its central location, the

hotel ofers peaceful respite for its guests with suites fully equipped with every imaginable convenience. Be sure to pay a visit to La Luna roof garden, bar and restaurant, which afords panoramic views across the city centre. La Grife, Via Nazionale 13, 00184 Rome, +39 06 4782 9885, lagrifeluxuryhotel.com, lalunaristorante.it

PHOTO: Felix Odell

90 | E X P E R I E N C E

Miss claRa Set in a former girls’ school on one of Stockholm’s busiest streets, Miss Clara strikes the perfect balance between honouring its art nouveau heritage and refecting its modern urban environment. Rooms are centred on the large windows overlooking the street or the courtyard, and feature window-seat storage units concealing a pull-out desk and minibar, globalblue.com

and large inviting beds. The entire hotel exudes character; each of the 92 rooms has a distinctive décor, while the shared facilities include a classic Swedish brasserie restaurant and cosy lobby bar. Miss Clara, Sveavägen 48, 111 34 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 440 6700, missclarahotel.com

S H O P | 91

Renaissance BaRcelona Hotel The Renaissance Barcelona Hotel is renowned for ofering its guests an exceptional standard of service, as well as sleek, contemporary interior design. Each of its guest rooms features luxurious bedding, individual climate-control settings, high-speed Internet

and modern bathroom suites, while the ftness centre, open 24 hours a day, is an added perk. Be sure to dine at the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highly acclaimed steakhouse; Cru serves only the fnest Black Angus beef alongside a carefully selected range of premium wines. Renaissance Barcelona Hotel, Pau Claris 122, 08009 Barcelona, +34 93 272 3810, marriott.com

The simplest way to shop tax free Join. Shop. Swipe. Save

The Global Blue Card. Save up to 19%* when you shop abroad at the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite stores. Sign-up now. www.globalblue.com/register

*Subject to local conditions.

G U I D E | 93

Guide

PHOTO: NaTalia MicHalska/MüNcHeN TOurisMus

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Munich with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the fnest gourmet restaurants to its hidden attractions. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/munich.

A GliMPSe OF MunicH The impressive Frauenkirche, built in the Gothic style in the late 15th century, is one of Munich’s most famous landmarks. globalblue.com

94 | G U I D E

Munich GA

5 BRI

ENN

STR

L SB

KÖNIGSPLATZ

RER

The Charles Hotel

Palais Keller page

Excelsior 96

Europäischer Hof

N EU

H A USER S

Maritim HE R Z

O GS

S CH WANT HA LE RST R. JO SE P

page

P ITA

L STR

ITA L ST

D EN

LIN

page N

Schlicker

SENDLINGER TOR

AU CO

S EN

FR HS T R .

. TR

NE CH KIR AL TH

Train Station

Hotel

Global Blue Refund Location

U-Bahn

Tourist Information

Place Of Interest

GOETHEPLATZ

E KL

MARIENPLATZ STR . page 100 ST. PETER'S TA L CHURCH

GER

R GE

A U M ST

Platzl Hotel

SC HIL LER ST

FIN

MARIENPLATZ CITY CENTRE

BL GOETHEST R.

K AU

101

103

page

NATIONAL THEATER MÜNCHEN page

page

S TR .

NUßB

page

ENS

NKOF ER

TR.

102

P E T TE

HSP

page

CATHEDRAL OF OUR DEAR LADY

103

Königshof KARLSPLATZ page

R E S ID E ZS TR . N

TR.

ILI

ER S

STR.

X MA

THEATINE CHURCH MUNICH RESIDENCE AT IN

MUNICH Intercity Hotel MAIN STATION

102

N ER

L AT

THE

IS E

P NS

page

TR.

Rema Hotel Esplanade

ODEONSPLATZ

Z AT

R EIC H EN B A CHS

D IE

KUNSTPAVILLON

H AC

R EIC H EN BAC

Eden Hotel Wolﬀ

ST R

King’s Hotel

S H O P | 95

SHOP’S HIGHLIGHTS

I L- R

IED

E L-S

K R.

E R A SS ENST

IN IAN

STR

I M IL

MA X

page

101

Mandarin Oriental

Torbräu

EI B

RÜ

LudwigsvorstadtIsarvorstadt

GERMAN MUSEUM City Hilton

ROSENHEIMER PLATZ

globalblue.com

Fendi With a whole wall dedicated to its famous Baguette bag, Fendi’s new Munich boutique is well worth a visit. Maximilianstrasse 12-14, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2370 8430, fendi.com featured on page 48

Hotel Admiral

Sprout Discover some of the world’s most avant-garde designer labels at this newly opened womenswear concept store. Theresienstrasse 25, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 4613 3489, sprout-store.com featured on page 101

ST. LUKAS CHURCH

ISARTOR

Wir Machen Cupcakes Choose between rich red velvet and refreshing lemon and vanilla at Munich’s nostalgia-inducing Wir Machen Cupcakes café. Utzschneiderstrasse 12, 80469 Munich, +49 (0)89 3795 4738, wirmachencupcakes.de featured on page 84

T H IER S C H S T

ALF

LEHEL

-R

ONS

- GOP

P E L-S

TR.

C H A RN

* 2

ARL -S

Vier Jahreszeiten

Cada Admire the quirky fine-jewellery collections produced by Cada; expect statement pieces mixed with subtle slivers of silver and gold. Maffeistrasse 8, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 255 4270, cada-schmuck.de featured on page 60

Schlicht The eclectic range of homeware selected by Schlicht store’s owner Alexander is sure to impress. Georgenstrasse 70, 80799 Munich, +49 (0)89 2777 4060, schlicht-designmoebel.de featured on page 50

96 | G U I D E

Sonnenstrasse, Karlsplatz & Neuhauser Strasse

LI MI

PA C E

L AT

TZ LA

MAIN STATION KARLSPLATZ B AY E R S T R A S S E

C&A ● IDEE ● ● GÖRTZ 17

● ODESSA E.K. STACHUS● APOTHEKE ● GAMESTOP

O2 GER MA NY ● ALL ERL EI ● FOO T LOC KER JAC K WO LFS KIN ● ● SAT URN HEL A KOS MET IK ● ● PIM KIE ● TRE TTE R SCH UHE ● SWARO VSK I ● CHR IST ● BON ITA ● AUG UST INE R GRO ANN CHR IST INE ● SSG AST STÄTTE N ● APO LLO -OP TIK ● THO MA S ● TAL LY WE IJL ● KULT ● PLA NET ● INT ERN ATI ONA LEN LUD WIG S-A POT HEK E● BEATE UHS E ● ●C E SNI PES TEX TIL ● ● V NTRUM E IC H T -A P OT H H&M ● EKE ROL AND SCH UHE ET T ● CR A ● STR ASS B ●M TRE PLA NET ● E ● H A X KRU E & E VE TRE TTE R ● E LY N ● H R R M A NG MA NGO ● . ● B HETZE N GESC UCH N AU ER E ECK ER H EN K E GU R ST P.53 IN E

JUWELIER BLEIHOLDER ● BIEBL BESTECKE ● U. PRÄSENTE ● KARSTADT Basement Stachus

LLIST

LI MI

● H. HETZENECKER ● E-PLUS

Oberpollinger

BENETTON ● HUGENDUBEL ● ● SCHMUCK-ART OBLETTER ● SPIELWAREN ● FIELMANN ● PRO OPTIK

STR A SSE

MÜLLER ● RESALES ● CITY OPTIK ● FRISCO ●

SONNEN

STR A SSE

MED. FACHHAUS ● VON SCHLIEBEN BIENEN ● APOTHEKE

SONNEN

● ULLA POPKEN

HeÄlage H A U No. 10 SER STR A SSE

AB EN

JO SE P H SP I TA L ST R A

LANDWEHRSTR.

SSE

HACK E

Prinz Myshkin

-W IL

HEL

ST EN NN SO SE AS STR

● HAVE A LOOK

ZO G

HORN ● BRAUTMODEN

HER

● EGÜ-MODEN

MICHAEL KUCHENREUTHER ●

SE AS TR

● MUSIK HIEBER-LINDBERG ● LILLY BRAUTKLEIDER

TCHIBO ●

DM ●

NEU

FÄ

NATRIK CHANA KAMINSKI ● MODE BOUTIQUE ● BEATE UHSE ● DIRK ROSSMANN ● SCHUHSALON MARCO ●

N YER RID C BA EN ● F B E T T S IS ● ● OA

Galeria Kaufhof

E NG

M -S

TR .

RA SS

E FOTO VIDEO SAUTER ● OPTIK VOGEL ●

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Restaurant

U-Bahn

I DL

Department Store

Shopping Centre/Mall

S H O P | 97

Rosenstrasse & Sendlinger Strasse SE

H ER ZO G

-W IL HEL

●

STR

A SS

●

TR .

M -S

R HE ● AC E SB PL S S E AP M EL AU ● HR K M TI RE TH ER ER NA OP L T ● ST S OR ST R ● K L EI A N S PC H U ER CA C M H S NG ● R O EB A UT R O LI ● S. EK UL TIC ● EL -B OP ● UT ● ITZ n Y KA ne WE E AB Ko HÖN AC E EJ E● H F EK SC O SL UH RT TH ● C ER O CH O EC LM R - S E N AP ● EN T H L ERPA AB TE ● GR K● ET AD CH ER RI EC ● TR ID RB CH T● -S FÄ .FR T N ● J.B OR SE G AS T O ● R SP I UH BO ● P PH TE O A HO -GA LI ME BE Y S YD DE ● OD L LO CO R EB TH TTE E ● D● TR IBO ● H AN ● TC RL ER ● B E S I LV ’S TIM UIK L● ISY RE ● Q R ● PA E S ● KE AP AL C U X RT NE A N E S EO R E G IC BA TZ RE ● ER ● HE KE MO ER AM H. & HE CH LL ● ● IS RE OT E O R F RIK OE ● AP MO IB F DE ● TCH M ● LE H A . T SH ION ● A SA E ● 17 SC CEN VIS ISE ● K AR TZ R AU VI N ● G Ö R CO M RP KR ● ● SU UC ’S MU S VI B ● ● LIPP OH HM LE SC ● ● K AD AA S R DIA ● ● AU RC A TI K E A SM KO

JO S E P H S PITA L

N SE

E NG

S AS

IN DL

LV I

N-

R O S E N TA L

U BL

COOLEST CONCEPT STORES

Marienplatz

A TR

1. Weissglut Providing a platform for up-and-coming designers, Weissglut concept store showcases pieces by the finest fashion labels, jewellery designers and homeware producers. It’s the perfect place to find the next big thing; brands stocked include Maison Scotch, Fever, Front Row Society and Blaumax. Weissglut, Hohenzollernstrasse 8, 80801 Munich, +49 (0)89 7456 3174, weissglut-design.de 2. A Kind of Guise The well-edited product range on offer at A Kind of Guise favours small German manufacturers who produce distinctive yet highly functional pieces. The store’s own label caters to both men and women, while the rest of the product range features labels such as Kiki Dieterle and New Tendency. A Kind of Guise, Adalbertstrasse 41B, 80799 Munich, +49 (0)89 7266 9511, akindofguise.com 3. Magazin Lifestyle store Magazin specialises in standout pieces that are as functional as they are stylish. The diverse range includes furniture, textiles, lighting, books, toys and outdoor accessories. Its own-label pieces are similarly distinctive; items include storage boxes fashioned from containers, stools that double as side tables and a relaxed sofa sleeping bag. Magazin, Prannerpassage, Kardinal-Faulhaber-Strasse 11, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2388 8031, magazin.com

globalblue.com

98 | G U I D E 2. Englischer Garten Offering respite from the bustling city centre, Munich’s Englischer Garten (English garden) is designed for relaxation. Sporty types can indulge their passions for cycling, jogging, football and even surfing, while more sedate visitors can simply enjoy the views with a picnic. Englischer Garten, Englischer Garten 2, 80538 Munich, +49 (0)89 3866 6390, schloesser.bayern.de

MUNICH’S MUST-SEE ATTRACTIONS 1. Bayerische Staatsoper One of the world’s largest opera houses, the Bayerische Staatsoper plays host to both the city’s ballet and opera companies. Its neoclassical façade echoes its original 1810 design, while the theatre has staged some of Germany’s most famous works, including several Wagner operatic premieres. Bayerische Staatsoper, Max-Joseph-Platz 2, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 218501, bayerische.staatsoper.de for map go to page 101

3. Residenz München Home to the dukes, electors and Kings of Bavaria from 1508 until 1918, Munich’s Residenz is a magnificent palace surrounded by ornate gardens. The ceremonial rooms and chapels are open to the public, and boast design features from the Renaissance to the neoclassical era. Residenz München, Residenzstrasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 290671, residenz-muenchen.de for map go to page 101

* 2

PHOTO: DaRia ORlOva

4. Viktualienmarkt The Viktualienmarkt (farmer’s market) attracts the city’s gourmands with its extensive selection of stalls selling fruit, vegetables, meat, cheese, fish, baked goods and spices. There are more than 110 stalls, with much to appeal to visitors as well as locals. Viktualienmarkt, 80331 Munich, viktualienmarkt-muenchen.de for map go to page 100

Kaufngerstrasse MA

RÜ

FFE

IS T

E SC

TST

SE AS

HAF

DSC

DURANCE EN PROVENCE GOLDSCHMIEDE ARNTZ GÖRTZ 17 HALLHUBER LEAF LEYSIEFFER ORSAY

DIE

SELECTED STORES IN PASSAGE KAUFINGERTOR:

LAN

NST

Marienplatz BU

SO LI LA MA VER ● ND B BA EN ER RT E ● TT US Pas ON CH ● sag UH HA C&A eK ND ● auﬁ EL nge ● r to ●P r ● H IMKIE XA ● Z &M NA Ga K ler A CH ● Z ERO ia K RIS ● ● D ARA auf T● hof ● D EICH M ● P OUGL ANN ● J ROM A S O U ● B WEL D IER IEB L PE TE W EI R

A SS

M D UN DO HE AM SC D ER TO R E Ä W IE IS M ● RRAR HOP S FE ● B O DY E R K E OR TH Y ● T KA W NE SPRI UF ● ING E ● ER

STR

●H IRM ER ●H &M ●C HR IST ●A .BR EIT ER

N E U H A U SE R

S AS

RAS

S CH Ä FF LER ST R A SSE

FÄ RB ER GR

Global Blue Retailer U-Bahn

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Shopping Centre

S H O P | 99

TOP TIP

PHOTO: a KUPKa

Oktoberfest, Munich’s most famous annual event, is a week-long series of festivities launched after the first beer barrel tapping every year (20 September in 2014). The festival attracts millions of visitors and is surprisingly familyfriendly with children wearing traditional Bavarian costume encouraged to enjoy carnival rides and specially devised entertainment. A full day is normally all that is needed to fully enjoy the festival – avoid weekends if possible as tables become particularly busy.

Marienplatz

Weinstrasse

ND SW FOTO A ● O TCH H U BEN E R SA ● Y GE T N D TO N ● UB EL ● ● SW J .G . o2 ARO ● H M AY VS GE ER K R ER I● HA MA ● NY RO REN YV LLH AU EC UB ES ● ● RU SS K R E R NN L R● AT OC TA ● E H TT H BIJ R A BE ER OU S P O ER ● R N U S -A BR INT S PO TE DIE IGI T ● I NL HE TT N A K E E● Lu DE E RS ● N FR d w TR i EU ● DE g Be A SS AG ck NH E EN AU TP S O P.1 BU RO P T 30 RG VO IK CA TR TE AS UR S

A SS

DIE

MARIENPLATZ Marienplatz

Dienerstrasse & Landschaftstrasse MA X

● FO TO R E IT E ●M R ÖBE L IM R AT H

A SS STR W EIN

HOFG

RG BU

Marienplatz

DIE

MARIENPLATZ

globalblue.com

F.X.RIEDERER ●

R ABE

● WINDSOR ● PORSCHE DESIGN

SCHIRME IM RATHAUS AUMILLER ●

IANS

TR A

SSE MA X

CHRISTINE ZEDER ● RESI FRIEDEL LEDER & MODE ●

IM IL

AU S

S CH Ä FFL ER ST R .

STR

LA RM WO

W EIN

Marienplatz

P E T Z W IL L IN M Ü HIT B AT E A G ● P.54 L H Ä U S E U ● WEM R ● PE P.56 WMF ● ● DOU WO L G L A S ● FOR D● TO M M Y H C H R IS T IL F IG ● ER N IE S MÜN S IN G CO S ● ● ● ● GE CHNER SCH ENK ● RO E -S T ECK SPO UBE L RTH PA R N AU S F BRÜ ÜMER MÜN IE CK N Z IN G HOF ● E B R JUW ER ● UBL & E L IE IT Z ● OP THO R CARL T IK H MAS ÖRT S KO R V IC T H . B IE B L ● N O R IN ● OX ●

THOMAS SABO

MARIENPLATZ

SCH Ä FFL ER ST R .

SELECTED STORES IN LUDWIG BECK:

IM IL

IA N S

TRA

SSE

100 | G U I D E

P.98

VIKTUALIENMARKT

Poseidon

F R AU ENST R A SSE

MUNICH’S MUST-VISIT MUSEUMS 1. Museum Brandhorst With a façade that has been designed to look like an abstract painting, it is little wonder that Museum Brandhorst is one of Munich’s leading modern art galleries. Its collection spans 20th- and 21st-century art, with a particular focus on American artists such as Andy Warhol and Cy Twombly. Expect an eclectic collection, including paintings, drawings, sculpture and new media. Museum Brandhorst, Theresienstrasse 35A, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2380 52266, museum-brandhorst.de 1

TA L

IN G E R- R IMM

-W

PA R F SCH K ICK Z Ü M ER RIM O W I MU CKG QUICK E IM TA A ● & ALE L RIE DIRT Y ● ● ●

W L E D AG N E ER H R O OSE HG N●

TA L

BÖ ● E HMLE ● M IN RIC R OH HTU PFE GR R EN NG IFF ● E ÜNE -A P S H A EN HUB RDE OT H U S ER EK E S TO BUT ●L ● L AU F L ER ● S B ER S● WE R K CH O KOG - SC J AC H U H L A DEN KW ●W OLF E IES D ER SKI ’N T L AM N R AC ● P EN G R AV HT ●F SCH IS ● & I E M IRM EH R ● M LMAN KR A ● N Ü ● C L L ER YU SS OP O SHO T ● H NR AD P PI IK ● EL E . HE NG ● C T ●U L L A Z E N EC T R O N I C KE POP K EN R

SE AS BU

Marienplatz

●A L ● W M EN R ATC A H S U SCH E RV ●A ICE LM P OI EN R NT AU S CH

Tal

TAL

2. Alte Pinakothek The collection of works by Old Masters on show at Alte Pinakothek is internationally renowned; the building plays host to more than 700 works produced by European artists between the 14th and 18th centuries. Pieces by Albrecht Dürer, Peter Paul Rubens and Leonardo da Vinci all feature; Dürer’s self portrait is a collection highlight. Alte Pinakothek, Barer Strasse 27, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2380 5216, pinakothek.de 3. Deutsches Museum Helping to promote interest in science and technology, the Deutsches Museum presents a series of enthralling exhibitions on themes as varied as space travel and sailing. The collection includes models of atoms, windmills, space probes and industrial robots – all of which are bound to delight and intrigue. Deutsches Museum, Museumsinsel 1, 80538 Munich, +49 (0)89 21791, deutsches-museum.de 4. Bayerisches Nationalmuseum Founded by King Maximilian II in 1855, the Bayerisches Nationalmuseum is one of Europe’s oldest museums. The space is dedicated to decorative arts and focuses on the period between the medieval and early modern eras. Items on display include porcelain, musical instruments, furniture and textiles alongside a folklore section filled with traditional Bavarian pieces. Bayerisches Nationalmuseum, Prinzregentenstrasse 3, 80538 Munich, +49 (0)89 211 2401, bayerisches-nationalmuseum.de

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Restaurant

S H O P | 101

Sprout Bringing avant-garde fashion to one of Munich’s more conservative districts, Sprout stocks pieces by the most on-trend international labels. the sister store to acclaimed menswear boutique Hrvst, Sprout ofers an eclectic range that includes brands such as ApC, Acne, Libertine-Libertine and Folk. the store’s interior is fresh and light, with wooden rails and a minimalist shelving design that help to create a distinctive atmosphere. Be sure to peruse the store’s complementary collection of cosmetics, ceramics and jewellery.

Sprout, theresienstrasse 25, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 4613 3489, sprout-store.com

Residenzstrasse & Maximilianstrasse RE PL AY

●

PR IM E SH

O ES ● BÄ M K AN DI S O D EH AU S LI N R ● KE ● & K AN O RG AN DI SM A N N ● IC LU N RI CH TU N G EN TA X U RY ● PE TE DI SM ER N ● M O D EH G O LF O ● AU S M A RI O N H EI IN O ● N RI CH / CL KR IN ES BU CH H AN FR AN ZI O E ● SK A D LU TE PP IC HN G L. W ER N ER ● ● G AL ER IE IR VA N LA AN ● AC K ● P.34 TI M A X DI ET L ● FFAN Y & CO BO G N ER. ● ● G U M A N I Ö SS L ● TE X TI L ● EI LL ES ● BU CH LO U IS VU IT TO N M ER ER ● AI SO N ●

RESIDENZ MÜNCHEN

IN N EN EI

globalblue.com

k i) pins Ke m ten szei ●

●H U V ● TO GO B OS VA L E R T U ● S P.53 ENT ● P O D ’S IN J IL S LO O● ● A LOR R A L P H NDE UNÜ O P IA R● TZE L AU ● ESC R● REN A DA N A G IO R SPO G IO RT ARM ANI ● POM ELL A TO ● ● SA LVAT WO L FOR ORE D● FER THO R AG MAS AMO - W IM ● SCH MER L - R IN IC H T G IN G

Res (I n s t a u r a n t ide H V otel ue P V i e r .103 GAR Jahr I e ●

MÈS

HER

D IO R

T IE R

CAR D● FOR

ST EN SS

TO M

E SS

RA ST

IANS

●

IM IL

● BU L

●E ● V TRO ● D E R S AC E ● C HO L C E & G ● P O O PA R D A B B A N P.56 A ● E OL ● M R M EN EG ONC IL D O ZE LER GNA

D●

MA X

P.48 BL A FENDI ● M O N N C PA IN ● T J IM M B L A N C ● Y CH O OME O ● GA ●

AS TR

RS NE

DIE

W EIN Marienplatz

AL TE

TST

HAF

DSC

PE ●

ZAR

R ABE

É LE

HOFG

SSE

WEM

E NZ S T R A S S E

TR A

REN

●B UFF AL ●D IE S E O L

P.98

IANS N

IS ●

IM IL

MA X

AKR

BAYERISCHE STAATSOPER

DA ●

NATIONALTHEATER MÜNCHEN

PRA

aner

L AN

zisk

STR

A SS

R E SID

Fra n

P.98

TR A

SSE

102 | G U I D E 1. St Emile The versatile range at St Emile features bold, contemporary designs that incorporate innovative materials and are crafted by skilled artisans. The wide array of styles is sure to have universal appeal. St Emile, Theatinerstrasse 15, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 4444 7040, st-emile.de

TOP WOMENSWEAR BOUTIQUES 1

2. Massimo Dutti The vast Massimo Dutti range runs the gamut from sophisticated eveningwear to relaxed casualwear, all with an air of elegance. The label uses high-quality materials and incorporates an array of textures to create distinctive looks. Massimo Dutti, Theatinerstrasse 8, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2423 1200, massimodutti.com 3. Aigner Aigner combines German precision with Tuscan tradition to produce a high-quality range of leather luggage, handbags, belts and small accessories. Be sure to note the label’s signature styles: the Saddlebag and the Doctor’s Bag. Aigner, Theatinerstrasse 45, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 3070 2066, aignermunich.com

ONS

R ST

Schumann’s

ODE

NN E

●C

AMP

A● ● IC S LE MA UE ● ● REPLAY U L NQ ● CI TIK OP CH ● BOSE TS GU ● HALLHUBER ● FURLA ● THOMAS SABO ● E. LEINFELDER ● BERNHARD GRASSL ● THOMAS ● STEFANEL P.54 ● FREUDENHAUS OPTIK ● TRETTER CLASSIC ● MARRYING ● MICHAEL KORS Fünf Höfe Schumann’s ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● P. RATH TagesBar ● PAPILLON ● SWAROVSKI ● TAG HEUER W .& ● DIE KLEINE THEATINER PARFÜMERIE R DIE HL E . DIEH ● DOUGLAS L● XC L ● EYECATCHER USI V● ● FOGAL STRUMPFLADEN ● ESPRIT NATIONALTHEATER MÜNCHEN ● ROECKL MASSIMO DUTTI ● ZARA ●

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Café

Restaurant

TR A

SSE

IANS

HOFG

IM IL

A SS

MA X

STR

R ABE

Shopping Centre/Mall

R E S ID

N ST I

A SSE ER STR

● ETIENNE AIGNER ● BETTEN RID

EN Z

ECKERLE HERRENMODEN ● WALTRAUD BETHGE PAPIERE ● PUMA ●

THE

AT I N

ER S

TR A

SSE

●S .B ● S AU M EI S CHÖ NHE TER RR

7 FOR ALL MANKIND ALESSI BOggI MILANO BUTLERS DOLCE & gABBANA DIEHL EXCLUSIV gLENFIELD HUgENDUBEL LUDWIg BECK MARC O’POLO MAX MARA NILE CLOTHINg REZA S. BAUMEISTER SCHLÜTER SCHREIBMAYR ST. EMILE TESSILFORM

BRIE

HORS FR ANK O T M A K K IR C H B E N IA ● E -U P R STUD GER IO ●

SELECTED STORES IN FÜNF HÖFE:

PL A TZ

Theatinerstrasse

Place Of Interest

S H O P | 103 1

BEST RESTAURANTS 1. Vue Maximilian Offering spectacular views across one of Munich’s busiest shopping streets, Vue Maximilian is a place to see and be seen. Chef Sven Büttner curates a menu based on fine, fresh ingredients, while the dining room has a classic yet relaxed décor. Typical dishes include pan-fried calf’s liver with apple slices, onions and mashed potato, and turbot with Champagne foam, green asparagus and truffled potato purée. Vue Maximilian, Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski, Maximilianstrasse 17, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2125 2125, kempinski.com for map go to page 101

3. Davvero Offering the authentic flavours of Italy in the heart of Bavaria, Davvero uses locally sourced ingredients to create suitably elegant dishes. Diners can enjoy city views while sampling classic cuisine such as risotto alla puttanesca and gnocchi with king oyster mushrooms and truffles. Be sure to visit at the weekend, when an extensive brunch is served. Davvero, The Charles Hotel, Sophienstrasse 28, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 54455 51200, davverorestaurant.de

2. Emiko Bringing contemporary Japanese cuisine to central Munich, Emiko combines Asia’s rich culinary heritage with international influences. Dishes are carefully prepared, exquisitely presented and feature delicately balanced flavours. Be sure to try something from the Asian-inspired bar – cocktails featuring sake, lemongrass and ginger are particularly refreshing. Emiko, Viktualienmarkt 6, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 4111 9080, louishotel.com

PRAD A● BAU E R●

SE AS

RS NE

TR A

DIE

TST

HAF

STR

R ABE

AL TE

DSC

IANS

Z ECH MA X

D●

L’O E R E S A CCI TA N ● E RO ECK ● L●

F●

LAN

A SS

globalblue.com

IM IL

L AG

● FREYWILLE

W EIN

ING

NATIONALTHEATER MÜNCHEN MA X

HO FG

ERF

IEL

HO LER ÄFF SCH IM

R E SIDENZ ST R A SSE

● TU MI ● LA UREL

Y●

NF DE LO TE LOT AR

● T IF FA N Y & CO ● BU . CHER ER

W .& R. D DIE VF IEH HL E GE L● RM XC L POI AN USI NT YS V● ● ERV A SK ICE S● ●O CA DA SCH ICS MU AS RE CK PU NB ● ST AN E DI U M G J R N MA AL F F E ● MOH NA L A A RIN CK P ER U SA S IST ● IN RE LÜ R G TR . A ● RA M RL SS E ● ● CA GE

BON

●S .B A UM EIST ●S ER CHÖ NHE RR

Mafeistrasse & Perusastrasse

SSE

104 | G U I D E

MY NEIGHBOURHOOD: Justin Leone originally from Canada, Justin Leone worked at some of Chicago’s top restaurants before becoming sommelier at Munich’s two-Michelin-starred tantris. He shares his in-depth knowledge of the city’s schwabing district with Isabella Redmond Styles tantris.de

‘Considering how many hours i spend at work, it’s important that i live nearby, so i call schwabing home. it’s a good bit outside the city centre, but it’s defnitely up and coming. there are plenty of parks, which provide a sense of rural serenity, but the public transport is fantastic, and there are shopping centres a few minutes away. ‘For fashion, i must mention the incredible tailor Stefan Sicking; it’s worth coming to Munich for him alone. savile Row-trained, and honed by Munich’s afuent customer base, sicking will stop at nothing to ensure that the most naturally ftting and impossibly elegant suit fnds its way to you. For fashionable footwear, Robot is awesome, and the Herzogstrasse in general is fantastic.

Above: the cool interior ofTantris restaurant

‘For perfect Bavarian cuisine, Georgenhof is a popular haunt for of-duty Michelin-star chefs and sommeliers alike; the Potting Shed is fantastic for burgers and craft cocktails; and, for a very diferent rendition of the english breakfast, grab a cofee and an early bite outdoors at Occam Deli. ‘For a little nightlife, enjoy a cocktail at one of the local bars such as Distillers Bar and Cocktailhouse, or relax by the water in the englischer Garten at Seehaus with a frosty litre of local beer. For a special dinner, try Bobby Bräuer’s Michelin-starred Esszimmer, or come back towards central schwabing and Germany’s frst and longestrunning two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Tantris, to experience unforgettable French-infused Bavarian cuisine and the

s H o P | 105

fnest wines that the world has to ofer. ‘i rarely leave tantris but at weekends you might well fnd me rejuvenating with some delicious light Japanese food and sake at Shizoo. i’m also a regular at Black Bean, as the cofee is consistently good, the sandwiches and wraps are fresh and healthy, and the people-watching is fantastic. i also like Das GaumenSpiel, which has beautiful baked goods, fne cofee and delicious snacks in an old-fashioned delicatessen ambience. ‘i always treat out-of-town friends to a proper Bavarian breakfast: weisswurst with sweet mustard, a typical Bavarian pretzel and schnitzel with redcurrants. My favourite spot for this is Zum Straubinger; however, many locals swear by another classic – which i also love – called Beim Sedlmayr. ‘Munich is quite a romantic place in winter, as the snow settles on the old buildings and cobblestone paths. My favourite spot, however, is in the old-fashioned Austrian-style log cabin which is built each year on the top of the Mandarin Oriental. the view is amazing, the ambience is magical and there’s plenty of delicious Bavarian food, drink and music. ‘My top tip for exploring Munich is to get to know a few bartenders and restaurant managers, and ask them where they like to spend their spare time. this is the surest way to get the insider’s view of the city. Go to Guido al Duomo and chat with the manager/ sommelier sebastian over a plate of great italian food; or sip a cocktail at Schumann’s Bar and talk to one of the great barmen or, if you’re lucky, Charles schumann himself.’

Above (clockwise from lef): exquisite food at Esszimmer; a cocktail at Distillers Bar; bespoke tailoring from Stefan Sicking

106 | G U I D E

Ingolstadt Village

Ingolstadt Village, located less than an hour from both Munich and Nuremberg, plays host to more than 110 luxury brand boutiques. Both german and international brands are represented, with savings of up to 60% available throughout the Village. Ingolstadt Village’s design takes inspiration from its surroundings; Bavaria’s evocative 19th-century textile mills are refected in its warm colour schemes and art nouveau motifs.

DoN’t MISS…

Ingolstadt Village, otto-Hahn-Strasse 1, 85055 Ingolstadt, +49 (0)841 886 3100, ingolstadtvillage.com, chicoutletshopping.com Opening times Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sunday and public holidays: closed

Shopping Day Experience – with €25 Shopping Card this exclusive package includes:

Five-Star Services the village ofers a range of VIP services including: • • • • •

Free wi-Fi Dog kennels A personal shopper Children’s play area electric car charging station

globalblue.com

• Return tickets from central Munich to the Village on the Shopping express® luxury coach service • Lunch and a soft drink at the Village’s Stiftl restaurant • A €25 prepaid MasterCard Shopping Card to be used at the Village • An exclusive gift

S H O P | 107

PeRFeCt DAy

Daria Orlova, SHoP’s associate Russian editor, describes her perfect day at Ingolstadt Village

Start the day at Liebeskind Berlin. the company is known for its innovative designs and use of highquality materials.

By Shopping Express®

12pm

2pm

take a break at the cosy, colonial-style Stiftl restaurant, which serves typically Bavarian fare such as pork medallions in pepper sauce with vegetables and potato gratin.

Christ’s 150 years of experience is evident in its exquisite fnejewellery collection, ofered alongside a range of timepieces by brands such as Raymond weil and Jacques Lemans.

6pm

4pm

Rosenthal is one of the world’s leading producers of contemporary porcelain, bone china, glass and tableware, all made to impeccably high standards.

Prepare for winter weather by picking up an outdoor jacket from Wellensteyn. the label’s quality, design and functionality are among the best.

end your day with a visit to culinary specialist Le Creuset, which ofers colourful cookware.

By Car From Munich take the A9 to junction Ingolstadt-ost (exit 61) and from the exit follow the signs to Ingolstadt Village.

10am

7pm

How to get tHeRe

the Shopping express® luxury coach service runs from central Munich to Ingolstadt Village daily. By Train Ingolstadt has a central train station with an InterCity train connection and is the main hub for trains running to Munich, Nuremberg, Augsburg, Ulm and Regensburg. there are regular connecting public coach services to Ingolstadt Village from IngolstadtNord and Ingolstadt Central Station. By Bus From Munich airport, take the Ingolstadt Airport express to Ingolstadt Village. From Ingolstadt central station, take bus line 10 or 11 to ZoB/ Harderstrasse, and then change to line 20.

108 | G U I D E

Outletcity Metzingen PeRFect DAy 10am Start your day perusing the sportswear on ofer at Peak Performance; the label is known for combining functionality and style.

12pm take a break at Keim Bakery to enjoy everything from cofee and cake to a freshly made sandwich.

2pm the ready-to-wear collection on ofer at Hugo Boss strikes the perfect balance between fashion and functionality.

Outletcity Metzingen, Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen, +49 (0)7123 925326, outletcity.com Opening times Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm Saturday: 9am-8pm (Hugo Boss 8am-8pm)

6pm 4pm Diane von Furstenberg produces classic, feminine pieces which exude elegance – the designer’s printed wrap dress is an iconic wardrobe piece.

globalblue.com

end your trip at Samsonite. this esteemed luggage manufacturer is known for ofering quality, durability and surprisingly lightweight suitcases.

How to get tHeRe enter Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen on your satellite navigation system. Drive north-west out of Munich on the A8 towards Augsburg and Stuttgart. Leave the A8 at the Merklingen exit, following signs for Münsingen. turn right on the L230, follow the road for 6km and turn left onto the B28 towards Reutlingen. Follow this street for 30km. outletcity Metzingen is clearly signposted when you arrive in the town.

The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best shopping streets, tax-free. Save up to 19%* at over 270,000 shops with Global Blue Tax Free Shopping. www.globalblue.com *Subject to local variations

110 | G U I D E

Essential Information Use your smartphone’s QR code reader to link to the helpful websites below when you’re on the go 1

1. Regional Tourist Ofce Tourismusamt München, Sendlingerstrasse 1, 80331 Munich, muenchen-tourist.de 2. Federal Foreign Ofce Switchboard (24-hour service): +49 (0)30 18170 Help Desk (Mon-Fri: 9am3pm): +49 (0)30 1817 2000

EMERGENCY SERVICES

USEFUL PHRASES

Emergency: +49 110 (police and ambulance) Fire: +49 112 Doctor: +49 116 117 (emergency service, weekends and public holidays) Lost Or Stolen Cards: +49 116 116 (immediate blocking of lost/ stolen debit/credit cards)

Hello ∙ Hallo/Guten Tag Thank you ∙ Danke schön Please ∙ Bitte I would like... ∙ Ich möchte... Goodbye ∙ Auf Wiedersehen How much is...? ∙ Wieviel kostet...? Can I have a receipt please? ∙ Darf ich bitte eine Quittung haben?

3. Transportation Maps For public transport timetables and tickets head to efa.mobi or mvv-muenchen. de; alternatively you can scan the QR code 4. Deutsche Bahn If you intend to travel by train go to the bahn.de website or scan the QR code for more information

6. Global Blue Online For the most up-to-date information on shops, museums, galleries and restaurants in Germany, go to globalblue.com or scan the QR code globalblue.com

PHOTO: Sven TeScHke

5. Taxis To fnd a local taxi, scan the QR code or use the website taxi.de

DID YOU KNOW ...? Munich’s city seal features a small monk known as the Münchner Kindl; look out for examples in the city that show him holding a beer stein!

Above: the Münchner kindl on the spire of the neues Rathaus

S H O P | 111

Munich Airport

After every great holiday comes the fight home, but that doesn’t mean your shopping trip should be over when you reach the airport. At Munich airport, you’ll fnd the best names in German fashion and accessories. If you’re looking for gifts,

souvenirs or a new pair of sunglasses from a label that you won’t fnd at home, the airport’s boutiques are sure to fll the gaps in your suitcase. In addition, Munich airport has a number of places in which to eat and drink.

Jo Malone

Fabriano

Jo Malone is known for its sophisticated and deceptively simple scents, which have become contemporary classics in the world of fragrance. Its products are instantly recognisable thanks to the signature monochrome packaging, which is both luxurious and understated, with highlights including fabulous scented candles and bath oils. Look out for the limited-edition scents released each season, or stock up on an old favourite such as the iconic Lime, Basil & Mandarin Cologne.

Known for its exquisite stationery, Fabriano is celebrating its 750th anniversary in 2014. To mark this milestone, the brand has launched a special collection which pays tribute to three celebrated users of its paper. The Michelangelo drawing folder is perfect for keen artists, the Ludwig van Beethoven music book will suit budding composers, and there’s also a lettering album in honour of infuential typographer Giambattista Bodoni.

Aigner Created in Munich, Aigner is frst and foremost a leathergoods label, known and loved for its excellently made luggage and handbags. However, since its inception in 1965 the brand has greatly expanded its ofering to include watches, jewellery and eyewear. Aigner prides itself on upholding the techniques of traditional craftsmanship and uses only the best raw materials.

Great shopping starts with great planning

globalblue.com Helping you to create your perfect shopping trip, with up to the minute shopping insights from around the world, as well as helpful tools like our refund calculator, store locator and currency converter. Scan the QR code below to start planning your perfect shopping trip.

www.globalblue.com

G U I D E | 113

Eat, See, Do See

If you have only a short time to spend in Munich, the city’s tourist board has picked its top three attractions around the city. Tourismusamt München, Marienplatz 2, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2339 6500, muenchen.de

Munich’s Bavarian cuisine ofers a distinctive taste with wide appeal. From weisswurst (veal sausage) with a large pretzel and sweet mustard to a portion of pork knuckle with potato dumplings, there are many options available. Head to one of the city’s lively beer gardens to taste the most authentic versions of traditional dishes.

Despite Munich’s landlocked location, the city’s residents can be found surfng on the Eisbach channel, the Isar canal and the Isar river. From the Eisbach wave in the Englischer Garten for experienced surfers to Flosslände in Thalkirchen, suitable for beginners, these static waves – the water moves but the wave’s location is fxed – are a popular and unusual attraction.

PHOTO: B. rOemmelT

Eat

globalblue.com

PHOTO: D. VersTl

PHOTO: CHrisTl reiTer

BMW Welt is the car company’s experience centre. Located near the city’s Olympic complex and next door to the BMW skyscraper and company museum, BMW Welt’s modern architecture rivals its contemporary surroundings. Its roof, which covers 16,000 square metres, appears to foat like a cloud. BMW Welt, Olympiapark 1, 80809 Munich, +49 (0)89 1250 16001, bmw-welt.com

114

When you shop the world, shop tax free Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process. 1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces. Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. 126

122 /

126

115

Refund Ofces

Munich Airport Terminal 1, Departures, Level 4, Terminal 2, Departures, Level 4 , Terminal 2, Transit, Level 5

Baggage claim

Level 04

Baggage claim

Transit Level 05

Departures Level 04

Key

Refund Ofce details: Global Blue Refund Ofce

Customs stamp

Landside

Tax-free mailbox

Check-in area

Airside

Security control

globalblue.com

Information

Munich Airport: Terminal 1, Departures, Level 4 Terminal 2, Departures, Level 4 Terminal 2, Transit, Level 5 Downtown Munich: Karstadt, Bahnhofplatz 7 Oberpollinger, Neuhauser Strasse 44 Galeria Kaufof, Kaufngerstrasse 1-5

Baggage claim

to put a price on. we have created the Deep Blue Programme in partnership with the IUCN, the International Union for Conservation of Nature, to preserve ocean environments in the Maldives and the Cook islands, home to some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most endangered marine species. To ďŹ nd out more visit globalblue.com/oceans

117

Translations Русский ПеРевод 60: Sparkling Achievements

Блестящие Рекорды

PHOTO: COLETTA EHRMANN

Баварская столица является родиной самых талантливых дизайнеров Германии, особенно если речь идет о создании ювелирных украшений, – рассказывает Гвинет Голланд

Мюнхен воспитал не одну плеяду талантливых ювелиров, вдохновленных местной ремесленной традицией и бесчисленными галереями. «В Мюнхене живут и трудятся одни из самых влиятельных мастеров. Быть может это случайность, а быть может все дело в том, что Мюнхен и его окрестности просто изобилует частными лавками и перспективными мастерскими», – говорит дизайнер Саскиа Диез. globalblue.com

Здесь можно найти самые изумительные работы, сделанные мастерами как вручную, по старинке, так и с учетом всех современных ювелирных технологий. Hemmerle – один из старейших ювелирных салонов в городе, а также один из самых новаторских. Он был открыт в 1893 году, когда братья Йозеф и Антон Хеммерле получили в управление ювелирную мастерскую и занялись выпуском медалей. В салоне работает 15 ювелиров, создающих вручную прекрасные украшения. В основу дизайна последних работ компании легли самые разнообразные природные узоры: от броши в форме эвкалипта из латуни, бронзы и золота с бриллиантами до крохотных алмазных баклажанов и тарантулов в натуральную величину, изготовленных из гигантских жемчужин, сапфиров и бриллиантов белого, желтого и коричневого цвета. Благодаря своему замысловатому дизайну, работы Hemmerle пользуются большой популярностью в галереях и музеях по всему миру. Недавние выставки проходили в Музее Виктории и Альберта в Лондоне и Музее исламского искусства в Дохе. Однако ювелирное искусство Мюнхена не ограничивается лишь роскошными украшениями. Саскиа Диез, знаменитая своим живописным, энергичным и чувственным стилем, создает украшения для независимых и смышленых женщин. Диез начала свое творчество с участия в конкурсе на тему женщины и спорт: она создала браслеты, которые выглядели как украшение, но на самом деле были утяжелителями для рук. «Мне казалось, что я могу сделать особый вклад в мир ювелирных изделий, создавая украшения для таких женщин, как я», – говорит Диез. Ее работы, сочетающие в себе элементы как мужественности, так и женственности, переосмысляют национальные традиции на современный лад. Утонченный и изысканный дизайн работ

118

Диез – настоящее воплощение роскоши: ослепительные жемчужины из коллекции Stripe, уложенные в форме геометрических фигур, сочетаются с аккуратно изогнутыми деталями из матового золота, а сережки из коллекции Fringe украшены тонкой серебряной цепочкой. В данный момент Диез работает над открытием своего первого флагманского магазина за пределами Германии, продумывая все: от униформы сотрудников до деталей интерьера. Тем временем компания Cada, чье название расшифровывается как Креативность, Искусство, Дизайн и Анархия, демонстрирует смелую и оригинальную сторону мюнхенской ювелирной индустрии. Бренд, запущенный Аннетте и Гербертом Копп в 1986 году, объединяет современный стиль с драгоценными материалами и высочайшим мастерством. Изделия идеально сочетаются с последними модными тенденциями – носить дорогие аксессуары с неброскими украшениями из серебра и золота или носить драгоценные украшения с деловой одеждой. Среди основных тем, оказавших влияние на изделия Herbert Kopp, фигурируют искусство, архитектура, музыка и субкультуры. Помимо остроумной серии украшений Love, ключевой частью коллекции Cada осень-зима 2014/15 также стало элегантное кольцо Ixxo из белого золота, усыпанное бриллиантами. После сотрудничества с несколькими globalblue.com

ювелирами Клаудия Ласснер решила основать свой собственный бренд под названием Cocii, а местом проведения своих экспериментов она выбрала мастерскую своего бывшего бойфренда. По словам Ласснер ее украшения из золота и серебра несут в себе оттенки утонченной сдержанности очарования. «Это эклектичная смесь различных веяний, – говорит она. – Коллекцию 2014 года можно назвать сочетанием чистого стиля ар-деко и олдскульного хип-хопа или союзом Coco Chanel и Kanye West». Ключевым украшением серии Ласснер считает большие изогнутые сережки Creole, однако следующая коллекция дизайнера будет сосредоточена на монохромном образе с элементами ее любимой эпохи 1920-х годов. Подобно своим коллегам ювелирам, Ласснер стремительно развивается благодаря креативной культуре Мюнхена. Ее магазин-аталье на Schraudolphstrasse стал магнитом для талантливых дизайнеров. «Мюнхен имеет небольшое, но весьма уникальное сообщество молодых, талантливых и невероятно амбициозных дизайнеров, – говорит Ласснер. – Я обожаю гулять по местным улицам, каждый раз открывая для себя что-то новое. Дизайн начинается с идеи, а культурная среда Мюнхена как раз способствует их появлению». hemmerle.com, saskia-diez.com, cada-schmuck.de, cocii.de

PHOTO: AnTOn FillmAnn

119

68: The New Cool

Король Антимоды Благодаря оригинальному подходу к созданию женской одежды мюнхенский бренд Oska приобрел широкую популярность. Джош Симс попытался узнать секрет успеха у основателя компании – Гельмута Баера Немецкий бренд Oska насчитывает более 70 магазинов по всему миру, а его оценочная стоимость превышает 25 млн. евро. При этом политика компании в отношении выпускаемой продукции остается неизменной и ориентируется преимущественно на тех, кого модная индустрия обычно старается обойти стороной. «Я бы сказал, что средний возраст наших покупателей превышает 50 лет, а ведь это именно тот возраст, когда так непросто найти одежду, которая не выглядит глупо, старомодно или слишком вызывающе», – говорит Гельмут Баер. Компанию Oska он основал в сотрудничестве со своими партнерами в 1997 году, однако уже давно

успел ее выкупить, и сейчас управляет ей вместе со своей коллегой дизайнером – Стефани Шмитц. Глубокое понимание нужд покупателей позволило Баеру занять определенную нишу на рынке: его клиентки – женщины старше среднего возраста, не обремененные заботой о детях или муже, одним словом, свободные и «готовые начать новую жизнь, – шутит дизайнер. – Я очень часто видел такой тип среди моих знакомых. В жизни женщин происходит довольно много фундаментальных перемен, намного больше, чем у мужчин, поэтому женщины всегда имеют четкое представление о том, чего они хотят». Это заметно по тому как они одеваются. Одежда Oska, к примеру, не имеет наружных этикеток с названием бренда. «Вам может это нравится когда вы молодые – взгляниете на Abercrombie & Fitch, – но когда вы становитесь старше, вам хочется скорее не демонстрировать чей-то бренд, а выражать свою индивидуальность, – говорит Баер. – Чем больше возраст, тем сложнее ваша индивидуальность и тем выше требования».

120

Точно так же дело обстоит и с сезонными изменениями в коллекциях. Если вы гонитесь за высокой модой, то найти ее не проблема. Что касается Oska, то каждый новый сезон здесь, как любит говорить Баер, «не новая книга, но новая глава одной большой книги». Главным элементом каждой коллекции в первую очередь являются ткани во всем их разнообразии цвета, текстуры и драпировки. Oska тесно сотрудничает с фабрикой Pro Len, расположенной в чешском городе Простеёв. Этот регион всегда славился производством текстиля, к тому же удобное географическое положение позволяет с легкостью достать необходимое сырье, а именно качественную кожу, коноплю и шелк. Здесь же расположена красильная фабрика Oska, позволяющая осуществлять сложное окрашивание тканей, в результате чего оттенки получаются более насыщенными и долго не выцветают. Баер соглашается с тем, что одежда Oska не из дешевых, но, в то же время, это означает, что вы получите именно то, за что платите. Хотя Баер и настаивает, что его компания работает в рамках модного бизнеса, тем не менее, фирменный подход похоже идет в разрез с определенными традициями индустрии. «Это довольно старомодный подход к созданию одежды, я полагаю, и, конечно он сильно отличается от политики современных модных брендов», – говорит дизайнер. Одно время ему пришлось работать представителем в агентстве по продаже модной одежды, качество которой оставляло желать лучшего, настолько, что он решил основать свое дело. «Каждая коллекция начинается с выбора ткани. На самом деле власть мира моды принадлежит не дизайнерам, а производителям ткани. Невозможно сделать качественную одежду из плохой ткани, так же как и нельзя собрать качественную машину из дешевой стали. Именно от ткани зависит то, как одежда будет сидеть, как будет стираться и как изнашиваться. А если речь идет о немецкой одежде, то качество и надежность должны быть бескомпромиссными». globalblue.com

Кроме того, принципиально важным для дизайнера являются такие понятия, как экологичность и этичность производства: «Я ни в коем случае не позволил бы себе размещать производство, например, в Бангладаше, – говорит он, – иначе я потерял бы к себе уважение». При этом дизайнер отмечает что «покупка экологичных вещей это лишь первый шаг. На самом деле нам нужно просто делать меньше покупок. А в идеале и вовсе ничего не покупать. Но кому это понравится? Да и бизнес от этого вряд ли станет прибыльнее», – улыбаясь, говорит Баер. И все же бизнес идет не плохо. Хотя он и мечтает о том, чтобы удвоить прибыль в следующие пять лет, что позволило бы покрыть расходы на модернизацию и изготовление макетов, ожидаемое увеличение доходов на 50% уже является довольно солидной цифрой для такой компании. Многим даже может показаться странным почему Баер не применит свою успешную формулу к мужской одежде. Однако все не так просто, как кажется на первый взгляд. «Мы пытались начать выпускать мужскую линию, но позитивного результата не увидели, – говорит он. – Мужчины старшего возраста предпочитают носить максимально простые вещи и раз за разом покупают что-то одно, проверенное и хорошо им знакомое. Я и сам такой, хотя работаю в модном бизнесе». oska.com 76: On The Rise

Баварское Чудо Нарастающая привлекательность культурной жизни Мюнхена притягивает внимание всей Германии и не только. Крис Портер пытается узнать, что же такого необычного предлагает столица Баварии Когда искусствовед Эмми Хоршткамп переехала в Мюнхен, она призналась, что нашла город с огромным культурным потенциалом. «С Мюнхеном связана история возникновения многих культурных течений. На самом деле, в этом городе

121

кроется немало ценных сокровищ, о которых все просто умалчивают. Мюнхену стоило бы заявить о себе во всеуслышание, но город остается по-немецки сдержанным», – говорит она. После своего приезда Хоршткамп основала организацию «Munich Artists», основная цель которой объединить талантливых жителей города и позволить им делиться своим творчеством с окружающими посредством коллабораций и инсталляций. Возможно, более удивительным является тот факт, что Хоршткамп переехала в Мюнхен из Берлина. И это при том, что Берлин считается главным эпицентром всех культурных событий Германии. Однако, по мнению Хоршткамп, он просто сильно «раскручен» и разрекламирован, именно поэтому многие серьезные галереи сейчас переезжают из Берлина в Мюнхен. «Мюнхен очень космополитичный, но этим не гордится,

– добавляет она.– В то же время Берлин относительно недорогой город для жизни, что как раз на руку многим начинающим талантам. Но если вы хотите добиться высокой финансовой ликвидности, то вам нужно ехать в Мюнхен, поскольку именно здесь сосредоточены те, кто готов платить за искусство хорошие деньги». Нет сомнения в том, что творческие индустрии Мюнхена процветают. К примеру, в городе есть своя кинематографическая школа. Организация Supreme Group регулярно проводит ярмарки мужской и женской одежды, а также нижнего белья, купальников и детской одежды. Уверенно набирает популярность Мюнхенская Неделя моды, собирающая под одной крышей более 80 как местных, так и иностранных талантов, включая Nör Denmark, Oblique, Petra Dieler, Lilith, Lunn and Hindahl & Skudelny. Мюнхенская школа моды Esmod

122

также имеет репутацию общенационального инкубатора молодых дизайнеров. Кроме того, в городе ежегодно проходит выставка бижутерии и ювелирных украшений «Schmuck». По словам ювелира Кинги Цобель это – «уникальная возможность для молодежи прикоснуться к прекрасному миру ювелирного искусства, и достойная альтернатива традиционным музейным выставкам». Как заметила госпожа Хоршткамп, это мероприятие, заслуживающее самого пристального внимания общественности, к великому сожалению остается практически неизвестным за пределами Мюнхена и в мировых ювелирных кругах. Неудивительно, что при таком разнообразии мероприятий и таком финансировании, ведь Мюнхен один из богатейших городов Германии, творческая индустрия набирает все большие обороты. Повсеместно открываются хипстерские магазинчики вроде Harvest, а также стильные бары и рестораны, такие как Charlie, Kafer и Schumann’s. «Да, Берлин это замечательный город, сравнимый с такими мегаполисами как Лондон и Нью-Йорк, однако Мюнхен его уже давно догнал и даже перегнал», – говорит Нилз Егер, основатель одного из ведущих в городе концертных залов «Bob Beamon Club». Ему, в частности, принадлежит отель «Flushing Meadows Hotel & Bar», номера которого оформлены различными мюнхенскими дизайнерами. «Люди приезжают сюда, потому что здесь нет такой суеты, к тому же здесь сосредоточены большие финансы, способствующие запуску новых креативных проектов. Но ключевым фактором развития культуры любого города, конечно же, является молодежь. В прошлом году Мюнхен испытал такой приток студентов, какого здесь не видели уже давно». Но, как утверждает Егер, от превращения в город богачей Мюнхен спасает целый ряд уникальных факторов. Непосредственная близость Альп означает, что в город скорее поедут более спортивные люди, а местный климат делает городской globalblue.com

темп более ярким и оптимистичным. «Мюнхен иногда принято называть самым северным городом Италии, потому что когда всходит солнце, все надевают свои солнечные очки, садятся в открытое кафе на улице и начинают пить кофе», – шутит Егер. Но, пожалуй, самым интересным является то, что Мюнхен остается неизменно немецким городом. «Берлин уже давно стал слишком мультикультурным, в то время как Мюнхен продолжает отстаивать свои традиции благодаря многочисленным биркеллерам и ледерхозе. И в этом его уникальность и неповторимость». 114: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохораните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС)

123

минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. 美文翻译

60: Sparkling Achievements 耀眼成就在高级珠宝领域，巴伐利亚首都聚集了一批德国最具创意的设计师，Gwyneth Holland报道得益于慕尼黑的手工艺史与画廊区的繁荣，城中层出不穷的创意珠宝品牌已不再秘而不宣。正如设计师SaskiaDiez所言， “一些最具影响力的人士在慕尼黑工作与生活。这或许出于偶然，也或许是因为慕尼黑——与周围地区——聚集了大批公司与手工艺坊，使其成为孕育设计的热土。这批设计英才，包括从可穿戴的艺术品、高级定制珠宝的精心打磨者，到大刀阔斧的摩登珠宝创意者。Hemmerle，城中全市最古老的珠宝商之一，也是其中最具创意的一员。该店开业于1893 年，当时Joseph与Anton Hemmerle兄弟接管了一家金匠店，并开始制作金属饰品，如今该公司由家族的第四代成员掌管。该店擅于制作手工定制饰品，内部拥有15名金匠。公司最新系列的设计展示了自然界的奇美与梦幻，从以钻石、黄铜、青铜与金子打造的桉树枝条胸针，到钻石密镶的茄子与以巨型海螺珍珠、蓝宝石和白、黄与棕色钻石制成的真实大小的狼蛛。如此巧夺天工的设计，也无外乎Hemmerle 的作品能出现在世界各地的画廊与艺术博物馆中，无论近期在伦敦的维多利亚与阿尔伯特博物馆的珍珠主题展，还是在卡塔尔首都多哈的伊斯兰艺术博物馆中。然而慕尼黑的珠宝不只是华丽极奢的。SaskiaDiez以几何形主导、冲击力强又感性的风格，为独立智慧的女性设计珠宝。Diez事业的开端，是为一项关于女性与体育的赛事设计珠宝：看起来像是珠宝的手镯其实是充当着手腕沙袋。 “我感觉自己可以为珠宝世界贡献一些目前没有的东西，一种为了我这样的女性设计的珠宝， ”Diez表示。她的设计刚柔并济，从运动与人体美学获得灵感，每一件作品都在以现代的方式重新诠释传统。 Diez强有力、微妙的设计透露出低调的奢华，从在Stripe系列中对于珍珠的大胆几何形运用，并为其搭配圆滑切割的亚光弧形金，到她 Fringe系列中的银色长链耳环。Diez目前正忙于开设德国以外的首家旗舰店，从店员制服到室内装潢的设计她都

亲力亲为。与此同时，Cada（代表创意、艺术、设计与无政府）则代表了慕尼黑高级珠宝前卫、另类的一面。这个由Annette与Herbert Kopp在1986 年推出的品牌，将摩登时髦感与珍稀原材料及工艺相结合。其作品完全符合当今人们的珠宝佩戴习惯— —以夸张配饰混搭不同渐层的银与金，或是佩戴珍贵珠宝时如同佩戴装饰珠宝一般随意。Herber t Kopp从艺术、建筑、音乐与次文化中汲取灵感，创作出自己的招牌设计，除了诙谐有趣的 L ove 系列，Cada2014/15 秋/冬系列的重头戏，还有 Ixxo 戒指，一款以白金为底座迷密镶碎钻的优雅角型戒指。在服务过若干珠宝商之后，Claudia Lassner 通过与前男友在五金车间中试验设计作品开创了 Cocii 品牌。Lassner 将其手工制作的银饰与金饰形容为精致而内敛，并暗藏魅力的。 “他们是对于不同影响因素的折衷融合， ”她表示。 “最新的2014 系列则可被视为干净、直接、是装饰艺术风格与旧式嘻哈的碰撞，或是 Coco Chanel 遇上 Kanye West。”Lassner指出她别具匠心的大Creole 耳环是她的得意之作，但在下一个系列中她则会塑造出更酷的单色作品，其中能见到设计师个人最偏爱的 1920年代的痕迹。 L a s s n e r与她的珠宝设计s h i同僚一般，致力于繁荣慕尼黑的创意文化，她位于 Schraudolphstrasse大街的工作室与店铺已成为吸引城中设计人才的磁石。 “慕尼黑有一个小而独特的圈子，聚集了许多年轻、才华横溢与雄心勃勃的创意人才， ”Lassner 说。 “我一直都很喜欢上街走走，发掘新事物。设计是从想法出发的，而慕尼黑的文化着实能催生新的灵感。” hemmerle.com, saskia-diez.com, cada-schmuck.de, cocii.de

124

68: The New Cool 酷感新趋势总部位于慕尼黑的 Oska 以耳目一新的手法设计女装，其声势日益壮大。Josh Sims向创始人 Helmut Bayer讨教其成功秘方这是一家在全球拥有 70 间门店、市值 2500万欧元的企业。德国服装公司 Oska 毅然决然地在竞争中求生存，并赢得了那些不被时尚界重视的女性群体的芳心。 “我想说我们顾客的平均年龄都在 50岁以上——当你到了那个年纪，要找到既漂亮又看上去不那么滑稽，古板或太年轻的衣服实在不是件容易的事。”Helmut Bayer 说，正是她于1997与几位合伙人(很久之前已将其股份买断)创立了Oska，并在今日与同僚设计师Stefanie Schmitz共同运营着公司。 “这也决定了我们只针对小众市场。” 这是Bayer 一直在小心翼翼培育的市场，其主要通过近距离了解他的客户：思想解放的新型中年妇女，可能也没有孩子，Bayer 半开玩笑地说，离婚的和未婚的，脱胎换骨和“准备开始新生活的” ，根据他的原话。 “我在熟悉的女性身上一次又一次地见过这样的发展模式。相对于男性，女性在生命过程中往往会经历更剧烈的变化，并且她们对于自己在生活中追求什么有非常清晰的概念。” 并且这点从她们的着装中就可看出端倪。没有一件 O s k a 服饰是贴有任何外外露标牌的。“你年轻的时候可能会喜欢商标 — — 看看 Abercrombie＆Fitch ——但是当你到了一定年纪之后，不会执着于某个品牌，而是更想要表达自己的个性， ”Bayer 说。 “人的年龄越大，就变得越有个性，越有自己的主见。”同样的，时尚的季节性变化也与此无关。如果你想追逐 T台时尚，就去别处寻找：Oska的每一季产品，如Bayer所言， “不是一本新书，而是一部续写中的作品里的一个新篇章”。品牌的每个系列都首先以面料为本：从颜色、质地到垂坠程度。Oska与其捷克 Prostejov 的主要生产商 Pro Len紧密合作；该地区不仅有自己的纺织传统，其地理位置也使其能搜寻到其他欧洲制造商苦寻而不得的面料，尤其是高品质的皮革，麻料与丝绸。Oska在那里也拥有自己的染色工坊，有能力进行复杂的成衣染色（会产生更鲜艳丰富并随时间自然褪去的色调），也使其很难被仿制。因此，Bayer 承认，Oska的定价并不便宜——但是，他指出，你所得到的产品必定物有所值。不难发现，尽管Bayer坚称自己位于慕尼黑的公司是一家时尚企业，但他的很多做法都与行业标准不符。 “这是一种相当老派的制衣方式，我想，也与今日的高街量产品牌大相径庭， ”这位曾经的时尚机构销售代表表示，他建立公司的原因是为自己销售 globalblue.com

服装的极低品质感到沮丧。 “我们的每个系列都是从面料生发而来的。事实上，时尚界的驱动力就来自于面料商，而并非设计师。就像低劣的钢材造不出高品质的汽车，低品质的面料也生产不出高质量的衣服。面料对衣服可被如何剪裁、如何清洗、如何耐久都是至关重要的。如果将衣服与德国人相比较，那就是同样强调质量与可靠性。” Bayer同样也执意让自己的衣服符合道德标准（“我不会选择在孟加拉国生产，譬如说——否则对自己无法交代， ”他表示）与可持续性，尽管这不是他会时常突出的东西。 “购买‘绿色’产品只是一点小进步。根本上而言我们应该少买。我们压根就不应该买。但谁愿意听到这些言论呢？这对于企业发展也不是好事， ”他笑着说。幸而企业发展得不错：虽然他想在五年内实现营业额翻倍，以此为Oska高速发展中的店铺复制成本买单，但仍旧将年增长率定在50%左右，这对于这样一家定位巧妙的公司而言似乎是个轻松的目标。在这种情况下，人们或许不禁要问，为何 Bayer 还不尝试将自己的成功模式用于男装，而不是局限于目前的胶囊系列。毕竟，这是公司创始时定名Oskar的初衷。 “我们已经做了一些尝试但效果并不理想”他表示。 “同一年龄阶段的男性喜欢非常简单的设计，他们会固执己见并反复购买同样的东西。我很喜欢这点——而我正身处时装界。” oska.com

125

76: On The Rise 酷感新趋势慕尼黑吸引力日益剧增的文化图景，正吸引着德国内外的注意。Chris Porter来到这座城市，试图找出是什么在吸引着全球创意界的目光艺术撰稿人 Emmy Horstkamp甫一搬到慕尼黑，就察觉到自己来到了一座充满文化潜力的城市。 “ 慕尼黑有着支持艺术运动的悠远历史。事实上，它有着深厚的文化积淀，却从不喧哗。慕尼黑着实需要让人们知道这座城里究竟在发生着什么，以一种非常德国的方式， ”她说。在她来到此地之后，创办了慕尼黑艺术家— —顾名思义— —这个组织致力于将慕尼黑的艺术家们联系在一起，彼此交流思想并进行合作与装置制作。而更令人惊讶的，是 Horstkamp是从柏林迁居慕尼黑的。毕竟，柏林往往被视作——“前卫”与“令人目眩神迷的”的，正如Horstkamp所描述——作为德国文化圈的震中，这里发生的一切都是酷劲十足的。然而按却未必符合大局，自然也不能解释为何艺术上更严肃的画廊如今都纷纷从柏林迁往慕尼黑，根据 Horstkamp 的观点。 “慕尼黑非常国际化，然而却不自知， ”她补充道。 “但是，更重要的是，柏林的居住成本相对较低，这对吸引新晋创意人才是极好的。但如果想获得雄厚的流动资金支持，你必须要

待在慕尼黑，因为这里才有成熟的艺术品买家。 “无可厚非的，创意产业在慕尼黑得到了蓬勃发展。譬如城中有一所电影学校。而在时尚领域，Supreme Group不但为男装和女装，且更不同寻常地为，为内衣、沙滩装以及童装开设展销推介会。慕尼黑时装周也在悄然成长，吸引了诸多本地及国际设计人才，将包括Nör Denmark、Oblique、 P e t r a D i e l e r 、L i l i t h 、L u n n 与 H i n d a h l & Skudelny在内的 80 多个品牌，介绍给更广泛的受众；慕尼黑的时装学校 Esmod，也同样赢得了全国首屈一指的设计人才孵化基地的美名。此外还有的Schmuck，这项每年一度的活动专

126

注于展示和推广艺术珠宝，这些珠宝，如同艺术珠宝商Kinga Zobel所言， “是为了吸引那些对于在博物馆或画廊中以传统方式陈列的艺术珠兴趣寥寥的年轻人。”实际上，正如Horstkamp所指出的，这项业界领先的开拓性活动与前卫珠宝贸易一样，在慕尼黑之外鲜有人知，令人无疑觉得意味深长。毫无疑问，有这么多资金支持着这么多丰富的活动 — — 这座城市是德国最富有的城市之一 — — 创意产业还在许多其他领域平行发展，包括众多的潮流店铺，酒吧与风格多样的餐厅：这批新到来这种包括Harvest与Charlie，还有Kafer与 Schumann’s等机构。 “的确，柏林或许是个很酷的城市，常被用来与伦敦和纽约相比较，但慕尼黑正迎头赶上并变得更为先锋， ”城中最具号召力的音乐现场 Bob Beaman Club 的创始人 Niels Jäger 指出。他还是新近开幕的Flushing Meadows Hotel & Bar的幕后主理，这里的每一间客房都由一位慕尼黑创意英才所特别设计。 “人们来到这里因为这里的生活不那么忙碌，但他们也是因为这里有足够的资金推动创意产业的发展而来。此外年轻人，毫无疑问，是任何一座城市文化发展的关键驱动力，从去年起大量的学生不断涌入慕尼黑。” 然而，Jäger同时指出，是出于一些关键但不同寻常的因素相结合，慕尼黑才没有成为富裕版的柏林。这座城市的地理位置靠近两条主要湖泊与阿尔卑斯山，意味着它不仅吸引着前卫人群，也吸引着喜爱运动的人们；当地的气候则使这座城市显得更为明亮与乐观，而非悲观与城市化。 “慕尼黑也被称为是意大利最北的城市，因为出太阳的时候大家都会纷纷戴上墨镜，坐在各处喝咖啡， ”Jäger打趣道。不过，或许还有一个更有影响力的原因，那就是慕尼黑似乎看上去更为德国化。“柏林让人有国际大都市的感觉，而慕尼黑则非常衷于传统— — bierkellers（小酒馆）， lederhosen（吊带皮裤）等种种—— 所以这些东西让这里永远不会变得过于

114: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税 globalblue.com

过程：

1. 消费购物无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点领取您的退税款。联系方式：

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€25并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退税手续费。

When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free: 114

‫ تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬،‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‬

‫ خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬Global Blue ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو‬ ‫ لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من‬Tax Free ‫دفع الضيبة‬ .‫ متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال‬270, 000 ‫ مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬26 ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ّ Global Blue ‫دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو‬ ‫عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ .‫ وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‬Global Blue ‫ تس ّوق‬.1 ‫الخاص‬ ‫ أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة‬،‫أينم تس ّوقت‬ ّ .‫ وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‬Global Blue ‫بغلوبل بلو‬ ‫ أطلب‬.2 ‫ أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة‬،‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‬ ‫الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد‬ .‫الخاصة بنا‬ ‫مكاتب الستداد‬ ّ :‫للتّصال‬

taxfree@ globalblue.com 111 111 232 +421 ‫ وادّخر حتّى‬€25 ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره‬

‫ من ثن‬14.5% ‫ يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه‬.‫مشتياتك‬ ‫ ف‬.‫مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري‬ ‫ يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب‬،‫بعض الطارات‬ ‫استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري‬ .‫نقدي‬

‫‪127‬‬

‫تجدر الشارة إل الحدث السنوي ‪ Schmuck‬الذي يركّز‬ ‫‪On The Rise: 76‬‬ ‫عل عرض وترويج الجوهرات الحرفيّة التي يصفها صانع‬ ‫ملك مناهضة الوضة‬ ‫الجوهرات الحرف ‪ Kinga Zobel‬بالص ّممة “لتصل إل‬ ‫تنصب النظار ف ألانيا وخارجها عل الشهد الثقاف التألّق أبدا ً ف الشباب الذين قد ل يتع ّرفون إليها من خلل عرضها التقليدي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ف التاحف أو العارض”‪ .‬ومن الواضح بحسب ‪Horstkamp‬‬ ‫ميونخ‪ .‬يزور ‪ Chris Porter‬الدينة ليكتشف ما الذي يلفت‬ ‫أ ّن هذا الحدث الرائد عاليّاً بالكاد يُعرف خارج ميونخ وف‬ ‫انتباه البتكرين العاليّي‬ ‫عندما انتقلت الكاتبة ف مجال الفنون ‪ Emmy Horstkamp‬أوساط الجوهرات البتكرة‪.‬‬ ‫لذا بوجود هذا الك ّم من الحداث وهذا الفيض من الال لتحقيقه‬ ‫إل ميونخ‪ ،‬أدركت أنّها وجدت مدينة ذات ثقلٍ ثقاف‪ .‬تقول‬ ‫وباعتبار ميونخ إحدى أكث الدن ثرا ًء ف ألانيا‪ ،‬ل عجب أن يشهد‬ ‫ف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬تتمتّع ميونخ بتاريخ عريق بالحركات الفنيّة‬ ‫مجال البتكار ازدهارا ً موازياً ف عدد محلت الوضة والحانات‬ ‫التأسيسيّة‪ .‬ف الواقع‪ ،‬بالرغم من تيّزها بهذا النحى الثقاف‪ ،‬ل‬ ‫والطاعم التن ّوعة؛ يتّخذ القادمون الجدد إل ميونخ عل سبيل‬ ‫عم يجري فيها‪ ،‬لك ّنها‬ ‫تتباهى به‪ .‬لذا عل ميونخ أن تعلم الناس ّ‬ ‫‪ Harvest‬و‪ Charlie‬مكاناً لهم بالقرب من شكات مثل‬ ‫تتكتّم عل الوضوع بطريقة ألانيّة بحتة”‪ .‬منذ وصولها إل‬ ‫الدينة‪ّ ،‬أسست منظّمة ‪ Munich Artists‬التي وكم ّ‬ ‫‪ Kafer‬و‪.Schumann’s‬‬ ‫يدل‬ ‫مؤسس نادي ‪Bob Beaman Club‬‬ ‫إسمها تساعد عل جمع ف ّنان ميونخ ليتبادلوا الفكار وينظّموا‬ ‫يقول ‪ّ ،Niels Jäger‬‬ ‫أعم لً ومعارض مشتكة‪ .‬وقد يكون المر الغرب ف الوضوع هو وهو أحد أبرز أماكن الوسيقى الحيّة ف الدينة‪“ :‬صحيح أ ّن‬ ‫برلي هي الدينة الشهية التي تُقارن بلندن ونيويورك‪ ،‬لك ّن‬ ‫انتقال ‪ Horstkamp‬إل ميونخ من برلي‪.‬‬ ‫ميونخ توازيها وتضاهيها من حيث البتكار”‪ .‬افتتح ‪Jäger‬‬ ‫ف النهاية‪ ،‬غالباً ما توصف برلي بالكان “الذائع الصيت”‬ ‫مؤخّرا ً فندق وحانة ‪ Flushing Meadows‬حيث ُص ّممت‬ ‫و”الكثي النشاطات” كم تفضّ ل ‪ Horstkamp‬تسميتها؛ إنّها‬ ‫كل غرفة عل يد مبدع مختلف من ميونخ‪“ .‬يأت الناس إل‬ ‫وكل ما هو مثي للهتمم‪ .‬لكن‬ ‫مركز ألانيا للحداث الثقافيّة ّ‬ ‫ميونخ لنّها غي غارقة ف الفوض وتكث فيها الموال‪ ،‬المر الذي‬ ‫بحسب ‪ ،Horstkamp‬قد ل تكون هذه الصورة الكاملة ومن‬ ‫تفس سبب مغادرة الكثي من العارض الكبى برلي يش ّجع إطلق أعمل مبتكرة‪ .‬وشكّل الشباب بالطبع مح ّركاً‬ ‫الؤكّد أنّها ل ّ‬ ‫والتو ّجه إل ميونخ‪ .‬تضيف‪“ :‬ميونخ مدينة عاليّة لك ّنها ل تدرك أساسيّاً للثقافة ف الدينة وشهدث السنة الاضية التدفّق الكب‬ ‫للطلب إل ميونخ‪”.‬‬ ‫ذلك‪ .‬أضف إل أن العيشة غي مكلفة ف برلي وبالتال تناسب‬ ‫يعتقد ‪ Jäger‬أ ّن ما سينقذ ميونخ من أن تصبح برلي الرجل‬ ‫الواهب الصاعدة‪ .‬لكن إن أردت سيولة ماليّة قويّة‪ ،‬عليك أن‬ ‫دمج دقيق وغي اعتيادي لعدد من العوامل‪.‬‬ ‫تعمل ف ميونخ با أنّها تض ّم أشخاصاً مستعدّين لشاء العمل‬ ‫الثي فحسب‪ ،‬هو ٌ‬ ‫بفعل موقع الدينة بالقرب من النهر الساسيّة وجبال اللب‪،‬‬ ‫الفنيّة‪”.‬‬ ‫ل ّ‬ ‫تجذب الرياضيّي وليس مج ّرد البتكرين؛ وبفعل مناخها العا ّم‪،‬‬ ‫شك أ ّن مجالت البتكار تزدهر ف ميونخ‪ .‬عل سبيل الثال‪،‬‬ ‫تجد الحياة فيها مشقة ومرحة وليست كئيبة ومدنيّة‪ .‬يصفها‬ ‫تض ّم الدينة كل ّية لصناعة الفلم‪ .‬أ ّما ف مجال الزياء‪ ،‬فتنظّم‬ ‫‪ Jäger‬ممزحاً‪ :‬تُعرف ميونخ بأنّها أكث الدن الشمليّة‬ ‫شكة ‪ Supreme Group‬معارض تجاريّة للبس الرجال‬ ‫ف إيطاليا إذ حالا تشق الشمس‪ ،‬يضع الجميع النظّارات‬ ‫والنساء وكذلك للملبس الداخليّة والبحر والولد‪ .‬تزداد شهرة‬ ‫الشمسيّة ويجلسون ف الخارج لحتساء القهوة‪”.‬‬ ‫أسبوع ميونخ للموضة سنة بعد أخرى ويقدّم إل الجمهور‬ ‫التمسك بألانيّتها‪“ .‬تيل برلي إل أن‬ ‫مواهب محليّة وعاليّة مثل ‪ NÖr‬و‪ Denmark‬و‪Oblique‬‬ ‫لكن يبدو أ ّن ميونخ تفضّ ل ّ‬ ‫تكون مدينة عاليّة‪ ،‬ف حي تحرص ميونخ عل حفظ تقاليدها من‬ ‫و‪ Petra Dieler‬و‪ Lilith‬و‪ Lunn‬و& ‪Hindahl‬‬ ‫حانات تحت الرض وساويل جلديّة وغيها؛ لذا ث ّة دوماً ما هو‬ ‫‪ Skudelny‬من بي ‪ 80‬علمة تجاريّة أخرى‪ .‬كم تكسب‬ ‫مناهض للموضة الفرطة‪ .‬وهو بالمر الجيّد‪”.‬‬ ‫كل ّية تصميم الزياء ف ميونخ ‪ Esmod‬شهرة كالصدر الساس‬ ‫لوهبة التصميم ف البلد‪.‬‬

‫‪PHOTO: BOrris Mayer/BO-PHOTO.de‬‬

‫‪128‬‬

‫‪The New Cool: 68‬‬

‫ملك مناهضة الوضة‬

‫‪PHOTO: CHrisTian Krinninger/CriKri.De‬‬

‫حقّقت علمة ‪ Oska‬الواقعة ف ميونخ نجاحاً تل َو الخر بفضل‬ ‫مقاربتها الجديدة إل ملبس النساء‪ .‬يتحدّث ‪ Josh Sims‬إل‬ ‫س نجاحه‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫مؤسس العلمة ‪ Helmut Bayer‬عن ّ‬ ‫تقدّر قيمة ‪ Oska‬بـ ‪ 25‬مليون يورو ولديها ‪ 70‬متجرا ً حول‬ ‫الختصة باللبس عل عدم‬ ‫العال‪ .‬لكن عزمت هذه العلمة اللانيّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لفت النظار وجذبت النساء اللّوات ل يعيهم عال الوضة بالجمل‬ ‫أسس ‪ Helmut Bayer‬العلمة سنة ‪1997‬‬ ‫الكثي من الهتمم‪ّ .‬‬ ‫حصتهم منذ فتة طويلة) ويديرها‬ ‫بالشاكة مع شخصي (باعا ّ‬ ‫الن مع الزميلة ‪ Stefanie Schmitz‬بصفتها مص ّممة‪ .‬يقول‬ ‫متوسط عمر الزبونة لدينا هو‬ ‫ف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬يكنني القول إ ّن ّ‬ ‫خمسي وما فوق؛ وعندما تكون الرأة ف هذا الس ّن‪ ،‬يصعب إيجاد‬ ‫ملبس جميلة ل تظهرها سخيفة أو قدية أو شابّة أكث من اللّزوم‪.‬‬ ‫هذا ما ييّزنا‪”.‬‬ ‫حرص ‪ Bayer‬عل صقل علمته ّربا من خلل إدراكه التا ّم‬ ‫متوسط العمر‪ ،‬التح ّررة حديثاً‪ ،‬من دون‬ ‫لزبونته‪ :‬الرأة ف أواخر ّ‬ ‫وربا كم يصفها ‪ Bayer‬ممزحا‪ ،‬الطلّقة‪ ،‬من دون زوج‪،‬‬ ‫أولد؛ ّ‬ ‫الولودة من جديد و”الستعدّة لبدء حياتها من جديد” عل ح ّد‬ ‫تعبيه‪ .‬يضيف‪“ :‬صادفت هكذا حالت لدى نساء مق ّربات م ّني‬ ‫تغيات جذريّة أكث بكثي من الرجل‬ ‫عدّة م ّرات‪ .‬تطرأ عل حياة الرأة ّ‬ ‫وتدرك تاماً ماذا تريد من الحياة‪”.‬‬ ‫ينعكس ذلك ف طريقة لبسها‪ .‬عل سبيل الثال‪ ،‬ل يحمل أي ثوب‬ ‫من ‪ Oska‬من الخارج شعار علمة تجاريّة‪ .‬يقول ‪Bayer‬‬ ‫تحب ذلك عندما تكون شابّاً‪ ،‬انظر إل‬ ‫ف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬قد ّ‬ ‫‪ ،Abercombie & Fitch‬لكن عندما تبلغ عمرا ً معيّناً ل ترغب‬ ‫الخاصة‪ .‬وكلّم كبت‬ ‫بشاء علمة تجاريّة بل بالتعبي عن شخصيّتك ّ‬ ‫بالس ّن‪ ،‬زاد ميلك إل التف ّرد والتع ّنت‪ ”.‬ل تتأث ّر العلمة كذلك‬ ‫منصات‬ ‫بالتغييات الوسمية ف السلوب‪ .‬إن كنت ترغب بوضة ّ‬ ‫عرض الزياء‪ ،‬أقصد مكاناً آخر؛ يقول ‪ Bayer‬عن كل موسم لدى‬ ‫‪“ :Oska‬ليس كتاباً جديدا ً ‪،‬بل فصلً جديدا ً ف الكتاب التواصل”‪.‬‬ ‫كل مجموعة ف الدرجة الول عل القمشة‪ :‬لونها ونقشها‬ ‫تقوم ّ‬ ‫ونوعها‪ .‬تعمل ‪ Oska‬عن كثب مع ‪ Pro Len‬وهو الص ّنع‬ ‫الرئيس لها ف ‪ Prostejov‬ف تشيكيا‪ .‬ل تتميّز النطقة بإرثها‬ ‫الخاص من القمشة فحسب‪ ،‬بل يتيح لها مركزها أيضاً جلب مواد‬ ‫وبخاصة‬ ‫يتعذّر عل مص ّنعي ف أجزاء أخرى من أوروبا إيجادها‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الجلد والكتّان والحرير العال الجودة‪ .‬كم تقوم ‪ Oska‬بأعمل‬ ‫الخاص ة بها هناك ومنها دباغة ألبسة متكلّفة (تعطي لوناً‬ ‫الدباغة ّ‬ ‫أغنى يبهت طبيعيّاً مع الوقت) وتجعل تقليدها صعباً‪ .‬بالتال‪،‬‬ ‫يعتف ‪ Bayer‬أ ّن ليست ملبس ‪ Oska‬بالرخيصة‪ ،‬لك ّنك تكسب‬ ‫مقابل ما تدفع‪.‬‬ ‫بالطبع‪ ،‬بالرغم من إصار ‪ Bayer‬عل أ ّن شكته الواقعة ف ميونخ‬ ‫مختصة بالزياء‪ ،‬تتعارض مقاربة ‪ Oska‬بغالبيّتها مع الشكات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الخرى‪ .‬يقول ‪ Bayer‬الذي سبق وكان مسؤول مبيعات ومن ث ّم‬ ‫ّأسس الشكة لنّه يئس من رداءة اللبس التي كان يتوقّع بيعها‪:‬‬ ‫“إنّها مقاربة قدية لصناعة اللبس ومغايرة للعلمات التجاريّة‬ ‫كل مجموعة من القمش‪ .‬ف الحقيقة‪ ،‬تكمن‬ ‫الفاخرة الراهنة‪ .‬تنبثق ّ‬ ‫ق ّوة عال الزياء ف مص ّنعي القمشة وليس الص ّممي‪ .‬ل يكنك أن‬ ‫تصنع ملبس راقية من قمش رديء‪ ،‬تاما كم ليس باستطاعتك أن‬

‫تصنع سيّارة فاخرة من فولذ رديء‪ .‬يلعب القمش دورا ً أساسيّاً ف‬ ‫قص اللّباس وكيفيّة غسله وبلئه‪ .‬وإن كانت اللبس ألانيّة‪،‬‬ ‫طريقة ّ‬ ‫فذلك لتكيز عل الجودة والتانة‪”.‬‬ ‫يحب ‪ Bayer‬أن تكون ملبسه مقبولة من الناحية الخلقيّة (ل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أستطع العمل ف بنغلدش عل سبيل الثال – ل أتكّن من تقبّل‬ ‫نفس) ومن حيث الستدامة‪ ،‬بالرغم من عدم تشديده عل ذلك‪.‬‬ ‫“ليس شاء ما هو “صديق للبيئة” إل خطوة صغية إل المام‪.‬‬ ‫أقل‪ .‬أو ّربا يجب أل نشتي عل‬ ‫الحقيقة أنّه يجب أن نشتي ّ‬ ‫الطلق‪ .‬لكن من يتقبّل هكذا نصيحة؟ كم وأنّه ليس بالخب السا ّر‬ ‫للشكات”‪،‬مبتسمً‪.‬‬ ‫العمل سا ٍر عل ما يرام؛ بالرغم من رغبته بضاعفة مردوده ف‬ ‫السنوات الخمس القبلة لتسهيل عمليّة تسديد تكاليف التنمية‬ ‫والختبار العالية لدى ‪ ،Oska‬يتوقّع ن ّو بنسبة تقارب الـ ‪ 50%‬التي‬ ‫ظل ذلك‪ ،‬نتساءل‬ ‫تعتب هدفاً مريحاً لهكذا شكة هادفة بذكاء‪ .‬ف ّ‬ ‫لَ ل يج ّرب ‪ Bayer‬معادلته الناجحة عل ملبس الرجال أيضاً‪،‬‬ ‫بغض النظر عن مجموعته الصغّرة الحاليّة‪ .‬ف النهاية‪ ،‬كانت هذه‬ ‫الفكرة الرئيسيّة عندما انطلقت الشكة باسم ‪ .Oskar‬يقول ف هذا‬ ‫الصدد‪“ :‬حاولنا قليلً‪ ،‬لك ّن العادلة ل تنجح‪ .‬ييل الرجال ف الرحلة‬ ‫ويتمسكون با يعرفونه‬ ‫نفسها من حياتهم إل التصاميم البسيطة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ويشتون التصميم نفسه مرارا ً وتكرارا ً‪ .‬أنا كذلك بالرغم من تواجدي‬ ‫ف عال الزياء‪”.‬‬ ‫‪oska.com‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪129‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية‬ ‫‪Sparkling Achievements: 60‬‬

‫إنجازات ب ّراقة‬

‫تض ّم العاصمة البافاريّة بعض أكث الص ّممي اللان ابتكارا ً‪ ،‬تقرير‬ ‫‪Gwyneth Holland‬‬

‫بفضل تاريخ ميونخ العريق بالعمل الحرفيّة ومعارضها الكثية‪،‬‬ ‫ل تعد وفرة صائغي الجوهرات البتكرين فيها بالس الكتوم‪.‬‬ ‫تقول الص ّممة ‪“ :Saskia Diez‬يعيش ويعمل بعض أشهر‬ ‫وربا لحتواء ميونخ‬ ‫ربا من باب الصدفة ّ‬ ‫الصائغي ف ميونخ‪ّ .‬‬ ‫ومحيطها شكات ومشاغل تتيح الفرص للبتكار‪”.‬‬ ‫تتاوح موهبة التصميم بي أولئك الذين يصنعون بدقّة قطعاً‬ ‫فريدة من نوعها يكن التزيّن بها ومبتكري الجوهرات الحديثة‬ ‫الجريئة‪ .‬ومن أقدم الصائغي ف الدينة وأكثهم ابتكارا ً‪ ،‬دار‬ ‫تول الخوان ‪Joseph‬‬ ‫‪ .Hemmerle‬افتُتح سنة ‪ 1893‬عندما ّ‬ ‫و‪ Anton Hemmerle‬محل صياغة قائاً ليصنعا الوسمة‪،‬‬ ‫وها هو الدار اليوم بإدارة الجيل الرابع من السة‪.‬‬ ‫يختص بالقطع الفريدة من نوعها الشغولة يدويّاً من قبل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫صائغيه الـ ‪ .15‬تقوم التصاميم الخية للشكة عل عجائب‬ ‫الطبيعة وغرائبها فتشمل دبوس زينة عل شكل زهرة شجرة‬ ‫الكينا مشغولً بالاس والنحاس والبونز والذهب وباذنجاناً من‬ ‫قطع الاس الصغية الصفوفة ورتيلء بالحجم الطبيعي من‬ ‫لؤلؤ الحار الكبي والزفي والاس البيض والصفر والب ّني‪ .‬بفضل‬ ‫هذه التصاميم الدقيقة‪ ،‬من طبيعي أن تكون قطع ‪Hemmerle‬‬ ‫قد ُعرضت ف معارض ومتاحف فنيّة حول العال عل سبيل‬ ‫الخصص للّؤلؤ ف متحف فكتوريا وألبت ف لندن‬ ‫العرض‬ ‫ّ‬

‫ومتحف الف ّن السلمي ف الدوحة ف قطر‪.‬‬ ‫ل تتميّز مجوهرات ميونخ بالزخرفة البارزة فحسب‪ .‬تتمتّع‬ ‫وحس وتص ّمم للمرأة‬ ‫‪ Saskia Diez‬بأسلوب ف ّني قوي ّ‬ ‫الستقلّة الذكيّة‪ .‬بدأت ‪ Diez‬عملها من خلل تصميم‬ ‫قطع لسابقة تُعنى بالنساء والرياضة؛ فص ّممت أساور بدت‬ ‫كمجوهرات لك ّنها استخدمت كأثقال للساعد‪ .‬تقول ف هذا‬ ‫الصدد‪“ :‬شعرت أنّه باستطاعتي إضفاء شء جديد إل عال‬ ‫تعب تصاميمها عن أفكار ذكوريّة‬ ‫الجوهرات للنساء أمثال‪ّ ”.‬‬ ‫وأنثويّة وعن الحركة والجسد وتحيي كل قطعة التقاليد بطريقة‬ ‫حديثة‪.‬‬ ‫تتمتّع تصاميم ‪ Diez‬القويّة العفويّة بفخامة مميّزة تبز ف‬ ‫استخدام اللّؤلؤ بأسلوب هندس بارز ف مجموعة ‪ Stripe‬مع‬ ‫الذهب الطفأ اللّمعة العكوف بدقّة وف أقراط الذني الفضيّة‬ ‫الطويلة ف مجموعة ‪ .Fringe‬تعمل ‪ Diez‬الن عل إطلق‬ ‫وتتول تصميم كل شء فيه‪،‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أ ّول متج ٍر رئيس لها خارج ألانيا‬ ‫زي الوظّفي إل الديكور الداخل‪.‬‬ ‫من ّ‬ ‫من جه ٍة أخرى‪ ،‬تُظهر علمة ‪( Cada‬وهي اختصار لفاهيم‬ ‫البتكار والفنون والتصميم والفوض) الوجه البتكر والغريب‬ ‫من عال الجوهرات الراقية ف ميونخ‪ .‬أطلق الثنائ ‪Herbert‬‬ ‫‪ Kopp‬و‪ Annette‬العلمة سنة ‪ 1986‬وهي تدمج السلوب‬ ‫العصي الدقيق بالواد الثمينة والحرفيّة‪ .‬تتناسب قطعها مع‬ ‫السلوب الرائج اليوم للتحلّ بالجوهرات؛ قطع مميّزة مط ّعمة‬ ‫بالفضّ ة والذهب والواد الثمينة‪ ،‬تستخدم يوميّاً كالكسسوارات‪.‬‬ ‫يعود ‪ Herbert Kopp‬إل الف ّن والهندسة والوسيقى‬ ‫والثقافات الفرعيّة بحثاً عن اللهام لتصاميمه الستثنائيّة‪ .‬إل‬ ‫جانب مجموعة ‪ Love‬الذكيّة من ‪ ،Cada‬القطعة البرز لديها‬ ‫لخريف‪/‬شتاء ‪ 2014/2015‬هي خاتم ‪ Ixxo‬النيق من الاس‬ ‫البيض الرصوف ف تصميم من الذهب البيض‪.‬‬ ‫عملت ‪ Claudia Lassner‬لدى عدّة صائغي قبل أن ّأسست‬ ‫علمتها التجاريّة ‪ Cocii‬من خلل اختبار التصاميم ف معمل‬ ‫العادن الخاص بصديقها السابق‪ .‬تصف ‪ Lassner‬مجوهراتها‬ ‫الصنوعة يدويّاً من الذهب والفضّ ة بالدقيقة والحافظة‬ ‫خاص من عوامل‬ ‫مع لسة من التألّق‪ .‬فتقول‪“ :‬إنّها مزيج ّ‬ ‫مختلفة‪ .‬يكن وصف مجموعة ‪ 2014‬الخية بالزيج بي‬ ‫أسلوب ف ّن الديكور النض والباش من جهة ومدرسة الهيب‬ ‫هوب القدية من جهة أخرى‪ ،‬أو الزج بي ‪Coco Chanel‬‬ ‫و‪ ”.Kanye West‬تعتب ‪ Lassner‬أقراط ‪ Creole‬الكبية‬ ‫اللتوية القطعة البرز لديها‪ ،‬لكن ستتميّز مجموعتها التالية‬ ‫الحب إل قلبها‪،‬‬ ‫بأسلوب أكث هدوءا ً مع لسات من الفتة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫فتة العشينات‪.‬‬ ‫عل غرار زملئها الصائغي‪ ،‬تستمتع ‪ Lassner‬بثقافة‬ ‫البتكار ف ميونخ وقد أصبح مشغلها ومحلّها ف شارع‬ ‫‪ Schraudolphstrasse‬مركز جذب لواهب التصميم ف‬ ‫الدينة‪ .‬تقول ف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬تتمتّع ميونخ بجال تصميم‬ ‫غني بالبدعي الشباب الوهوبي‬ ‫صغي لكن فريد من نوعه‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫والطموحي‪ .‬يروقني دوماً السي ف الشوارع واكتشاف أمور‬ ‫جديدة‪ .‬الفكار هي نقطة انطلق أي تصميم والحقيقة أ ّن‬ ‫الثقافة ف ميونخ تولّد أفكارا ً جديدة‪”.‬‬ ‫‪،hemmerle.com ،saskia-diez.com‬‬ ‫‪cada-schmuck.de ،cocii.de‬‬

130 | P RO D U C T S

Souvenir

WEARING THE PAST Department store Ludwig Beck is expanding its menswear oferings with a new department devoted to clothing and accessories for the most stylish of men. To mark the occasion Ludwig Beck, which is a Munich shopping institution, has teamed up with German clothing brand Drykorn to create a capsule collection of nine pieces exclusive to the store. Mixing understated casual style with Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

a modern fashion edge, the range features jackets, trousers, T-shirts and a lightweight scarf. Bringing the famous storeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history frmly into the present, many of the pieces have been emblazoned with a portrait of its founder, Ludwig Beck himself. hl Drykorn for Ludwig Beck sweatshirt, â&#x201A;Ź109.95, Ludwig Beck, Marienplatz 11, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 236910, ludwigbeck.de * for map go to page 99