Paris Quartier Latin - Lyon - Thonon-les-Bains - Sallanches - Toulouse/Labège - Strasbourg Albertville - Marseille - Grenoble - Chambéry (ouverture début 2013)
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Editor’s Letter Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Cyprus Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera
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Let SHOP guide you as you explore Paris. In this edition, read about the hip new directional styles of the city’s youthful menswear designers (page 28), the enduring appeal of red lipstick (page 36) and much more. SHOP is part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, and publishes guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you everything you need to know about your chosen destination, including the essential stores, boutiques, restaurants and places to visit. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. It’s even easier to claim your tax savings with the Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the website. And don’t forget to download the Global Blue mobile app!
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Welcome to Paris
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Stanley Chow Illustrator Stanley Chow created this season’s cover for SHOP Paris Style. His bold and structured fgures make him the perfect choice for this edition’s cover, which shows the two contrasting sides of today’s Parisian menswear design, inspired by our feature on page 28. Stanley is based in Manchester in the UK, where he has lived all his life, and he works throughout the design, editorial and advertising sectors. Read more about our illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
PhOTO: DORCAS BROwN
ILLUSTRATION: STANLey ChOw
Contributors
Ruairidh Pritchard Ruairidh Pritchard, assistant production editor at SHOP, is also Global Blue’s menswear reporter and in this edition he reveals the latest on Parisian style for men. Ruairidh studied journalism in Glasgow, where he was editor of his university’s award-winning magazine. He is a keen traveller and writes for a variety of publications. globalblue.com
Katy Young Katy Young is a veritable doyenne of everything to do with beauty, cosmetics and health. She has been a beauty journalist for more than a decade, mainly at Harper’s Bazaar magazine and more recently as beauty editor of the Telegraph Online newspaper, and has also written for Tatler, Quintessentially and Flare.
Disponible au 47 rue Bonaparte, 75006 & 20 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75003
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Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Stanley Chow Contributor Katy Young Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial intern Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Picture intern Rubi Ali
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Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue
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Contents p.28
P RO D U c T S 12 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Paris this season 14 My Favourites Jewellery designer Estelle Dévé reveals her top tips for autumn/winter 2014/15 16 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 20 Street Style Our pick of Paris’s best dressed for autumn/winter 2014/15 n EwS 22 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Paris 24 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
Above: APC autumn/winter 2014/15
F E AT U R E S 28 Cover Story: Style For A New Generation Ruairidh Pritchard on Parisian menswear’s younger, hipper new look 36 The Colour Of Passion Red lipstick is timelessly alluring, says Katy Young GU I DE 45 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Paris ESSEnTIA lS 56 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A n S l AT I O n S 59 美文翻译 61 Traductions françaises SOU v E n I R 66 The essential item to bring home
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Check Out
DO GOOD, LOOK GOOD These beaded leather sneakers from French lifestyle brand Twins for Peace stand for more than just style. Twin brothers Alexandre and Maxime Mussard founded the footwear, clothing and accessories brand to promote humanitarian values. For every pair of shoes sold, they also donate a pair to a child in a community in the developing world, thus sharing their success
with those less fortunate. Twins for Peace collaborated with the Jean-FĂŠlicien Gacha foundation in Cameroon to create this ethnic-inspired design; 50 hours of traditional craftsmanship goes into every pair, preserving the skills of the local people and creating a product that can be worn with pride. gl Twins for Peace beaded sneakers, â‚Ź350, Twins for Peace, 81 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4271 1042, twinsforpeace.com for map go to page 53
*
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 56
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MY FAVOURITES: Estelle Dévé Estelle Dévé’s lifelong passion for design was sparked during her childhood in a small village in the south of France. She set up her eponymous jewellery line in 2008 and has gained critical acclaim for her combination of artisanal techniques with innovative styles. She shares some of her favourite places and products in Paris with Ximena Daneri
1. ‘I’m looking
2. ‘My favourite
3. ‘I’m a sucker for
forward to visiting this newly opened store, which has amazing cosmetics based on products that were developed in the 1800s’
pieces from my latest collection are the Unisson and Solitaire bangles in gold. I have been wearing them every day’
French cosmetics and always carry Homeoplasmine’s balm, moisturiser from Embryolisse and Créaline lotion by Bioderma’
Buly 1803, 6 rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4329 0250, buly1803.com
Estelle Dévé Unisson bangle (double), €500, Solitaire bangle (single), €315, estelledeve.com
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 56
Bioderma Créaline lotion, 100ml, €4.20, bioderma.com
PHOTOS: (1) © BOHman & SjöSTrand aB; (3) Pål allan; (4) alexandre GuirkinGer; (6) micHel BOnnier
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S H O P | 15
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4. ‘I always carry Nars lipstick in my bag’ Nars Heat Wave lipstick, €26, Sephora, 22 place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5330 8490, narscosmetics.com
5. ‘Oud Immortel by Byredo is all I’ve worn for years now’
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Byredo Oud Immortel fragrance, 100ml, €140, Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4439 8000, byredo.com
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6. ‘I’ve been living in these sneakers for the past few months. I have two pairs on rotation’ Eytys suede Mother sneakers, €170, Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 3390, eytys.com
globalblue.com
16 | P RO D U C T S
KEEPING IT CASUAL
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1. Gucci handbag, price on request, Gucci, 2 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4494 1460, gucci.com
3. Bally boots, €950, Bally, 60 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4265 5898, bally.com
2. Mango denim shirt, €34.99, Mango, 6 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 5330 8270, mango.com
4. Pinko skirt, €153, Pinko, 4 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4266 3211, pinko.it
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 56
PHOTO: (4) TOMMASO VECCHI
Finely crafted accessories put the extraordinary into an ordinary daytime look
S H O P | 17
DARK AND STORMY
PHOTO: (3) DAVID PICCHIOTTINO
Leather is still a major trend. Update the look with contrasting textures and boxy silhouettes
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1. Monki jumper, €30, Monki, 96 rue de Provence, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 5332 8500, monki.com
3. Barbara Bui handbag, €1,380, Barbara Bui, 62 rue du Faubourg SaintHonoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4266 0587, barbarabui.com
2. Sportmax Code skirt, €115, Sportmax, 72 rue des Saints-Pères, 75007 Paris, +33 1 4549 2203, sportmax.com
4. Adolfo Dominguez boots, €219, Adolfo Dominguez, 1-3 rue Elzévir, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4458 9610, adolfodominguez.com
globalblue.com
18 | P RO D U C T S
POETIC INSPIRATION Burberry’s printed scarf lends a bohemian hint to classic tailoring 1
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1. A Testoni backpack, price on request, A Testoni, 15 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4456 0990, testoni.com
4. Ermenegildo Zegna boots, €1,295, Ermenegildo Zegna, 24 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4548 1165, zegna.com
2. Closed coat, €459, Le 66, 66 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5353 3380, closed.com
5. Cos trousers, €99, Galeries Lafayette, 40 boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 4282 3456, cosstores.com
3. Burberry scarf, €950, Burberry, 56 rue du Faubourg SaintHonoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 7207 0021, burberry.com
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 56
GABRIEL & BERTIE HAVE BEEN A COUPLE FOR 3 YEARS
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Artistic, outspoken accessories such as the Lego clutch bag by Les Petits Joueurs and Ivan Aiplatov’s teddy-bear bag were the order of Paris Fashion Week, providing an instant, easy way to inject fun and frivolity into any outft
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 56
PHOTOS: Melanie Galea/THeSTreeTMuSe.iT
Street Style
S H O P | 21
globalblue.com
22 | N E W S
Shop Window
TO THE RIGHT Sonia Rykiel is regarded as something of an institution in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés district on Paris’s Left Bank, where she opened her frst boutique in 1968. But this year the non-conformist French designer, who loves to go against the grain, opened her frst boutique north of the river Seine, in Le Marais on the Right Bank,
describing the area as ‘where the pulse of Paris beats’. Visitors to the store will hear a playlist by electrotechno star Louisahhh as they browse the rails. The minimalist interior allows the clothes to punctuate the space with bright and bold splashes of colour and patterns in quirky and relaxed designs. gl Sonia by Sonia Rykiel, 37 rue de Poitou, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 8483 0330, soniarykiel.com
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 56
SWAROVSKI.COM
32 PLACE DE LA MADELEINE – PARIS 8 146 AVENUE DES CHAMPS ELYSEES – PARIS 8
PRICES VALID AT PARTICIPATING LOCATIONS FOR A LIMITED TIME ONLY.
Miranda Kerr
Watch 395€ Bracelet 99€
PHOTO: ak HaDJaDJ
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DISCOVER SONGZIO
SWEDISH STYLE
Prolifc designer Zio Song is one of South Korea’s most exciting exports. Since graduating from the prestigious Parisian fashion school ESMOD in 1987, Song has built his fashion brand Songzio into a thriving business, with fve diferent fashion lines to his name. With a vision to present daring, progressive and aspirational creations, his autumn/winter menswear collection focuses on a palette of rich blues and classic black, with sharp tailored suits made modern by glittering gold lapels and this contemporary twist on the standard woollen coat. hl Kabuki Hommes, 21 rue Étienne Marcel, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4233 1344, songzio.com * for map go to page 54
Swedish brand Cheap Monday opens its frst standalone store in Paris this season. The brand celebrates its 10th anniversary this year and the new French boutique is one of a number of openings across some of the most exciting fashion cities in the world. The store’s interior is a balance between rawness and refnement, much like Cheap Monday itself. Stocking the brand’s complete range, including womenswear, menswear and the much-loved Cheap Monday denim range, this is a great addition to the Marais district. hl Cheap Monday, 121 rue Vieille du Temple, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4027 4990, cheapmonday.com
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 56
S H O P | 25
SHOP THE WORLD Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trip. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store and can also be downloaded for offine use enabling you to create your own itinerary. You can also sign up for the Global Blue Card and, once you’re logged in the My Tax Refund wallet becomes available, allowing you to track pending refunds. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax
Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase you make in every different country you visit. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store
CASHMERE CAPSULE Parisian cashmere specialist Eric Bompard has released a limited-edition Lab Line collection for autumn/winter 2014. The capsule collection consists of six pieces that push the technical boundaries of cashmere, pioneering new stitches and yarns to create architectural 3D knitwear. Soft and luxurious cashmere has long been a winter wardrobe staple. The Lab Line collection presents it as an innovative style statement as well as a practical luxury. The pieces will be available in the Paris, London and Brussels stores only. gl Eric Bompard, 91 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5357 8960, eric-bompard.com * for map go to page 50 globalblue.com
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MADE FOR WALKING Founded in 1908 by leather cutter Rémy-Alexis Richard, Paraboot began as a small family business. Richard was one of the frst men to use rubber soles on shoes, designing his own unique way of bonding them to luxurious leather uppers. When the company became Paraboot in 1927, it was one of the frst French frms to import the ‘boot’ style of shoe from America, then a novelty, and since then these have been the much-loved trademark of the brand. Paraboot is one
BORN IN THE USA Fashion emporium Colette is now stocking Detroit-based leather goods and timepieces brand Shinola. The watches are made in the US by a production team trained in the assembly process by Swiss-based movement and micro technology specialist Ronda AG. The timepieces come with a lifetime guarantee and feature
of the last remaining manufacturers to produce its footwear entirely in France. A century of experience and innovation has kept this French institution at the top of its game. hl Paraboot, 304 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4450 5267, paraboot.com * for map go to page 51
premium leather straps, handmade in Florida by Hadley-Roma, which has been perfecting its craft since 1905. Shinola ofers a wide range of men’s and women’s designs in various styles and colours. The Runwell is one of the brand’s signature styles, fast becoming popular for its classic aesthetic which will easily transcend seasons. gl Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 3390, shinola.com * for map go to page 51
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 56
28 | F E AT U R E S
Style For A New Generation Parisian menswear is being reinvented to appeal to a younger, hipper clientele. Ruairidh Pritchard profles the brands which are leading the way Paris’s status as the home of worldrenowned fashion houses such as Chanel, Saint Laurent, Christian Dior and Céline means there’s no denying the city’s high-fashion credentials, but more recently the city has started to open a new chapter in its fashion story, as the Parisian menswear scene takes centre stage. Paris has become a city of two style halves. On one side is classic Paris, a city of beautifully chic men 59
/ Traduction à la page 61
and women impeccably dressed head-to-toe in timeless Parisian fashion, and on the other is Paris’s formerly underground fashion scene, newly emerged and bubbling with streetwearinspired labels and independent multi-brand stores catering to the cutting edge in French fashion cool. The emphasis in young French menswear design has shifted in recent years, with understated looks focusing on the
Above: English caption mo tet voluptatibus eniatem nullandem ium As qui rernati orenitae
S H O P | 29
Above: Russian caption mo tet voluptati eniatem nullandem ium As qui rernati orenit
PHOTO: LAurenT HuMberT
PHOTO: Kevin TACHMAn
30 | F E AT U R E S
essentials – fabrics, cut and colour – and creating clothes that are neither trend-led nor weighed down by the pomp and circumstance of traditional Parisian menswear. Ami, founded by Alexandre Mattiussi, is in the vanguard of this Parisian nouveau menswear revolution. The brand’s name is composed of his initials and the Previous page: APC autumn/winter 2014/15
last letter of his name, and translates into English as ‘friend’. Ami is being heralded by many as one of the driving forces behind this new wave of Parisian menswear. ‘Ami is a unique concept of ready-to-wear for men, a complete men’s wardrobe, well-designed, easy, chic and, above all, cool. This collection is not about fantasy. It is a proposition of real clothes for a real man,’ explains Mattiussi, who previously worked at Dior, Givenchy and Marc Jacobs, refning their menswear lines. Last year Mattiussi won the Association Nationale pour le Développement des Arts de la Mode (Andam) prize – one of the French fashion industry’s highest accolades for young designers – and a capsule collection in collaboration with Swiss label Bally will make its debut later this year. Another French label making waves on the international menswear scene is APC. The brand, Above (from top): Ami autumn/winter 2014/15; Ami founder Alexandre Matiussi
PARIS 6E - 7, RUE DE SEVRES - TEL. 01 42 22 68 06 PARIS 6E - 3, RUE VAVIN - TEL. 01 43 25 30 90 E PARIS 6 - 19, RUE DU VIEUX COLOMBIER - TEL. 01 45 48 57 84 PARIS 8E - 19, RUE TRONCHET - TEL. 01 47 42 34 23 PARIS 8E - 14, RUE MARBEUF - TEL. 01 40 70 13 82 PARIS 8E – 6, BOULEVARD MALESHERBES PARIS 16E - 130, RUE POMPE - TEL. 01 47 27 47 41 PARIS 16E – 72, RUE PASSY E PARIS 17 - 17, AVENUE DES TERNES - TEL. 01 43 80 83 60 BOULOGNE BILLANCOURT - 9 RUE LE CORBUSIER, LE PASSAGE DE L’HÔTEL DE VILLE - TEL. 01 49 99 82 90
- Boutique en ligne -
www.olivergrant.com
32 | F E AT U R E S
with the label this season, and thus introduced the label to thousands of new fashion fans. The collection sold out within a few hours. Paris isn’t just playing host to exciting, minimalist menswear labels; the city’s streets are seeing
Understated, detail-focused style rules over Paris’s changing menswear landscape
which ofers collections for both men and women, was founded by Tunisian-French designer Jean Touitou, the label’s creative director and a 1992 recipient of the Andam prize. Under Touitou’s creative lead, APC has been defning the minimalist French aesthetic since the late 1980s, a time when the label’s signature clean lines, simple patterns and anti-logo ethos drew comparisons to military uniforms, leading many to consider the brand as ‘anti-fashion’. In recent years the label has seen a boost in popularity due to its use of raw denim; APC selvage jeans are now a staple of the modern contemporary menswear wardrobe. There have also been collaborations with rapper Kanye West, who launched his second limited-edition capsule collection Above: APC autumn/winter 2014/15
more and more multi-brand menswear stores appear, all stocking brands that adhere to the newwave Parisian menswear aesthetic. Jo is found on a small street in the city’s Montmartre district. The store’s understated grey façade gives little away of the painstakingly handpicked collections inside. However, while you’d be forgiven for accidentally overlooking it, Jo is not a store to miss. Owners Stéphane Ramo and his wife Marie-José (‘Jo’) carefully select every item they stock and the minimalist approach of store’s exterior extends inside, where the focus is solely on the design principles of the collections chosen, rather than on providing endless choice. Attention is paid to colour, cut and fabric, with European menswear labels carefully selected to ensure
PARIS | 38 Boulevard Des Italiens | Tel. +33 1 402 29 982 | 12 Boulevard Saint Germain | Tel. +33 1 463 30 668
PHOTO: ROyal CHeese
34 | F E AT U R E S
the store’s elegant, efortless design philosophy isn’t compromised. Labels such as Paris-based Emile Lafaurie and Dr Denim, Sweden’s latest denim darling, join classic American workwear brand Lee in making the cut. Royal Cheese, which occupies several boutiques on rue Tiquetonne, is a haven for Parisian fashion fans who seek out rare menswear imports, including pieces by California-based streetwear label Stüssy, jeans by Stockholm-based Cheap Monday and knitwear by preppy British retro-vintage label Farah Vintage, all favourites among the city’s club kids. The newest addition to the city’s ever-growing list of menswear stores is Beaubien on rue NotreDame-de-Nazareth. Named after a metro station in Montreal, owner Julien Bouzereau’s home city, the store is another example of a perfectly curated menswear haven. Stock includes Denmarkbased, nautically inspired label
Andersen-Andersen, New York’s casual basics brand Dana Lee and Japanese selvage denim brand The One Goods. The store is perhaps a perfect example of Paris’s changing menswear landscape, where understated, detail-focused style is king. Paris will continue to cater to high-fashion devotees from around the world, but the new focus on minimalist design and carefully curated stores will no doubt become the Parisian menswear aesthetic that draws in a new generation of stylish gentlemen amiparis.fr, apc.fr, royalcheese.com, beaubienstore.com
Above (from top): Royal Cheese store; Beaubien store
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S H O P | 37
The Colour of Passion PHOTO: Neville MarriNer/Daily Mail/reX
Red lipstick is timelessly chic and alluring, as Katy Young discovers
From Marlene Dietrich to Marilyn Monroe, from Jerry Hall to Scarlett Johansson, there is something about red lipstick on a woman’s lips that transcends time yet remains fresh and always on trend. From ancient civilisations that used it as a way to decorate faces to Elizabethan England, where the queen decreed it fashionable, red lipstick throughout history has maintained an air of mystery, seduction and allure. ‘Red lipstick is arguably the most timeless tool in your make-up 60
/ Traduction à la page 63
case,’ says Linda Andersson, make-up artist and founder of the Red Lippy Project, which raised awareness of women’s health issues in the UK by encouraging followers to wear a slick of bright red lipstick. She’s right. And don’t the beauty brands just know it? Mac cosmetics says it was a red lipstick, specifcally its Russian Red, that put the brand on the map, while the icons of the Paris beauty scene, YSL and Chanel, have entire Lef: Jerry Hall models Christian Dior in Paris, 1993
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ranges based on the red lip, respectively entitled Rouge Pur Couture and Rouge Coco. Away from the make-up counters and on to the catwalk shows that set the trends: here, too, you would be hard pushed to fnd a season without red lips. For autumn/ winter 2014 you’ll fnd shots of red lipstick in all its guises: bright and blurred at Vivienne Westwood; rich and considered at Prada; matte, cool and sexy at Max Mara. As with the red carpet, there’s a chameleon-like quality to red lipstick, which means you’re just as likely to see it on a Hollywood newcomer such as Jennifer Lawrence or Kristen Stewart as on a seasoned pro. ‘I think the reason why red lipstick is a classic and will never really go out of style is because it’s so versatile,’ explains Andersson. She believes every woman should own a red lipstick. ‘There are so many diferent tones of red
The catwalk shows that set the trends feature red lips season after season
that I would argue it suits more faces than nude and pink lip shades. You can also create many looks with it: wear it with an eyeliner and you have a sexy look; wear it with a bare face and you have a really bold and cool look.’ If you haven’t yet found your perfect shade, Andersson suggests that cool skin tones should go for blue tones of red, while warm skin tones might want to veer towards orange-based reds. ‘But there are
Above (from lef): Linda Andersson and Caroline Muhlich, co-founders of The Red Lippy Project; Chanel’s Rouge Coco Gabrielle lipstick
PHOTO: © gORunWaY.COm
40 | F E AT U R E S
no rules. Make-up is a perfect tool to experiment with! You just need to fnd a texture and shade that suits you,’ she adds. Another tip comes from Poppy King, international lipstick expert, founder of Lipstick Queen and self-confessed red lipstick obsessive. King suggests practising wearing a red lipstick around the house. It sounds weird but works a treat if you’re new to red lipstick and have confdence issues. That was never King’s particular issue. She fell in love with red lipstick after seeing Jerry Hall on Above (from top): Vivienne Westwood’s autumn/winter2014/15 show make-up; YSL Rouge Pur Couture 33 lipstick
42 | F E AT U R E S
the pages of Vogue. ‘She possessed two of the most coveted pouts in the world: hers and Mick Jagger’s. There was a confdence in the way she faced the world. You felt she was in control of her destiny. Jerry looked strong and dressed strong – red bikini, red nail polish, red lipstick.’ It was at that moment King realised that red lipstick was ‘a tool of instant, transfguring power that could make me feel like Jerry Hall even if I could never look like her. What I did have was lips, and as long as I had lips I, too, could paint them red, and as long as I had red lips I, too, could enter a world of glamour.’ There was once a theory that during times of economic uncertainty the sales of lipstick, a relatively low-cost luxury item, would go up. Whether the lipstick index still serves as a way to measure the economy of a country isn’t as clear any more. But according to James Gager, senior vice president of
Mac, booming sales ‘prove that lipstick is an instant fx for a woman to buy at a reasonable cost. She can also use it as an adjunct to basically change her wardrobe and her look very quickly.’ Intense red is said to quicken the heart rate and, as King explains, ‘prompt the release of adrenalin in our bloodstream’. ‘Red lipstick is supremely empowering on a woman and a red lipstick can lift and make your day in a second,’ comments Andersson. Taking that into account, maybe our longstanding obsession says more about our emotional outlook than the state of the economy
Above (clockwise from lef): Max Mara; Prada; Vivienne Westwood (all autumn/winter 2014/15)
PHOTOS: © gOrunWay.cOM
Intense red is said to quicken the heart rate
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G U I D E | 45
Guide
PHOTO: Ximena Daneri
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Paris with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the top patisseries to the best ceramics. Start with our recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our welltravelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/paris.
The celebratory Arc de Triomphe stands guard at the western end of the Champs-Élysées and is one of Paris’s most famous landmarks. Visitors can admire the arch from below or ascend to the very top and enjoy panoramic Parisian views.
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PHOTO: XXXXXX
A GlimPSe oF PAriS
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IN ODEON BO ULE VA R CLUNY - LA DS A IN T- G E R M A IN SORBONNE MAUBERT - MUTUALITÉ
Global Blue Refund Ofce
48 | G U I D E
Boulevard Saint-Germain, Rue du Four, Rue Saint-Sulpice, Rue de Sèvres & Rue de Grenelle AU VIEUX CAMPEUR : 48 RUE DES ÉCOLES (1KM) ● MAXIMILIEN ● CAROLL ●
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FAÇONNABLE ● ● CARON PARIS POM D’API ● GERARD DAREL ● FREELANCE ● DANIEL SHU UEMURA ● DIAMANTISSIMO ● ● CREMIE UX COMPTOIR DES GUESS ● ● ARTHUR & FOX COTONNIERS ● IKKS ● MURAT ● ● JUST CAMPAG NE ALAMBRIC ● MAUBOUSSIN ● LIU JO ● ● BURBER RY
D
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SERGE BLANCO ●
● LA POINTURE ● COSMO ● KINZA ● PATRICK GERARD ● KOOKAÏ ● LA CENTRALE
BOOT SHOP ● ● JOSEPH ● ARTS ET BIJOUX ● TED BAKER ARTHUS BERTRAND ● CANDY ROCKETS ● EMPORIO ● FA LOUIS VUITTON ● B R TEENFLO ● ● ARMANI IC E
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● FABRICE ● FRANCIS KLEIN
● ELEVEN PARIS ● DARMON ● LES PETITES ● AN’GE ● ● CAREL ● DL O D IN ● N ARO G ● A AN N IG L IE E
● MAX MARA
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PIERRE HERMÉ P.55 RU EB ON A PA RTE ● TRUSSARDI SEQUOIA ● THE ● LA BAGAGERIE NILAI ● ● KOOPLES 7 FOR ALL AUBADE ● HERVE ● MANKIND AGNÈS B ● ● CHAPELIER ● NAPAPIJRI SATELLITE ● ZADIG & AXARA ● ● VOLTAIRE MARIONNAUD ● ● AESOP P.53 ● VILEBREQ U IN
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Le Bon Marché
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Department Store
Metro
Featured In This Issue
Café
PHOTO: XXXXXXX
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BIBA ●
● MARISA ● DERBY ● PARALLELE ● MAC DOUGLAS ● MAJE ● PISCINE ● HERMÈS
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BERLUTI ● ALAIN FIGARET ● CYRILLUS ● LE TANNEUR ●
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● LOSCO ● FREYWILLE ● CAFÉ COTON ● OLIVER GRANT ● JET SET
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Rue du Dragon & Rue du Cherche-Midi
RM AI N D SA IN T- GE BO UL EVAR ● BURBERRY CHURCH’S ●
RU E DE S SA IN TS
ZEIS HOUSE ● TRACTION● JOSKA ●
● NATURINO ● CARTES D’ART ● CESAREE
RUE DU D R AG ON
-P ÈR ES
TANYA HEATH ● THIERRY RABOTIN ● JAIME MASCARO ● FEMME SECRÈTE ● LIBERTIE ● LA BOUTIQUE DE LOUISE ● PRIVILEGE ● SIXIÈME ● VICOMTE A ● STEALTH ● SHOE BIZZ ● SON IA R Y MICHEL AXEL ● K IE L ● TOD’S ● RU E DE G REN ELLE ● CO S
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● SCOOTER ● ARCHE ● ARTLING PETITE ● MENDIGOTE ● ALEXA ● RUCKFIELD ● ANNABEL WINSHIP ● PLEIN SUD JEANIUS ● DEMILUNE ● LA SCARPA ● PIÙ ● LARIO
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● CAMPER ● MARIONNAUD ● CREA CONCEPT ● ROBERT CLERGERIE SWATCH ● ● ORCEL MOBACO COTTONS ● TRAFFIC JAM ● ATELIER MERCADAL ● ERES ● ● MAJE STOCK GERBE ● AVENTURINE ● FAUSTO SANTINI ● ● JB MARTIN ACCESSOIRE ● GROOM DIFFUSION ● ● FAIRMOUNT OSKA ● ● METAL POINTU’S SANDRO ● MARLIES DEKKERS ● ● SATELLITE ENTRACTE ● ● LE CIVETTE LA FÉE ● IL BISONTE MARABOUTÉE ● ● SOPHIE D'ANNUNZIA LILITH ● ● COTÉLAC LOXWOOD ● ● CATHERINE ANDRÉ KARINE DUPONT ● ● REGARD CECILE & JEANNE ● ● J. FENESTRIER CHARLES JOURDAN ● ● MARIA CALDERARA ● HEIMSTONE E
Meridiani’s homeware achieves the feat of being both contemporary and timeless. The brand recently moved to a new space on Paris’s boulevard SaintGermain, close to the Musée d’Orsay. The new store was designed by Meridiani’s designer and art director, andrea Parisio, and is laid out like an apartment, albeit a very stylish one. Highlights include the Tuyo collection of linens and upholstery, which ofers design and comfort and is available in bespoke versions to suit the most exacting requirements. Meridiani, 278 boulevard SaintGermain, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 5574 6226, meridiani.it
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globalblue.com
PHOTO: FRANCIS AMIAND
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Avenue des Champs-Elysées, Avenue George V, Rue François 1er ARC DE TRIOMPHE
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Metro
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IA GE LE PA RDEL ● C O ● FA U R É RU E CA M B O N
● LONGCHAMP ● REPETTO ● TARA JARMON ● ANNE FONTAINE ● ZAPA ● HERVE CHAPELIER ● JOHN GALLIANO ● CHANEL ● FOGAL ● AUDEMARS PIGUET
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● TOM FOR D ● JI MM Y CHO O ● ZARA ● H UGO B OS S ● BRO O KS B ROTH ERS ● VI KTOR & RO LF ● EMP O R IO A R M ANI ● PARFUMS DIOR ● M IKI HOUSE
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● GU ER ● E.G OYLA IN AR D ● DO DO ● BA LD IN ● GU CC IN I I
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MESS IKA ● MORA BITO ● WOLF ORD ● OCTO PUSSY ● CADO LLE ● DEVER NOIS ● LINEA PIU ● CHLOE ● PORT S 1961 ● DSQU ARED 2 ● TUMI ● WEST ON ● YVES SALOM ON ● HOTEL COSTE S ● FRATEL LI ROS SET TI ● RU E DE
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SA NDRO ●
LONGCH AMP ● CHRONOPASSION ● DJ UL A ●
R U E S A I N T- F L O R E N T I N
VIL EB REQUIN ● FU RLA ● M ICH A EL KORS ● & OTHER STORIES ● ESC ADA ● P.52 VAL EN TINO ●
RUE SAINT-HONORÉ
● JUST CAM PAG NE ●N O ● L DUS 'E Q U IP E E ●T O ANG ● C US L A IS E C IL E E ET ●C JE A AST NNE ANE R ●S H IAT ZY C ●V HEN EBE R ●A ESO P
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globalblue.com
S A IN
CAMILLE FOURNET ●
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CO L ETT ●B L TH E● A BY T U IL CO S O M A S S ●M MOP ● S A INO N T R E E R IE S A R IS TOS T-H O S ● CA B ● JO NOR PEN LU ● É HAL MAL IG ONE ●M M U L O N ’S ● AC BER ●B RY ● PEU ONP T O IN ER FR A T GON EY ● ●M ARD O ● ● G N IE S ELE UES NA M S IR O ●S ● T THE ● S O N E IS A KO O ● S T E L L IT L A N D PLE E S ● P Q U O IA E H IL IO ● ARA ●C ● OLD OT E B OOT EN ● L AC P.26
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Astier de VillAtte
A st ier de V i l l at te produce s exqu i site cer a m ic s t h at a r e handmade in Paris. Visit t he striking rue saint-Honoré boutique to admire a vast array of ceramic homeware. Astier de Villatte, 173 rue saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 7413, astierdevillatte.com
Rue Saint-Honoré West
Rue Saint-Honoré East
52 | G U I D E
Valentino
Rue de Rivoli West
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● TOP TIME ● LA SCAR PA ● FRUI T PUN CH ● PARA BOO T ● GAR RICE UD ● PIER RE RICA
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● GAP ● BOCAGE ● ERAM ● ● ● ● ●
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LOUVRE RIVOLI JACK WOLFSKIN ● ILLÉGITIME ● SOLEIL SUCRÉ ● JEAN MARC PHILIPPE ● PRONUPTIA ●
PHOTO: © ViTTOriO DOziO
the minimal, marble-clad interior of Valentino’s new menswear store makes the collections the focus of attention. Valentino, 273 rue Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 8482 4295, valentino.com * for map go to page 51
● PUR E ● OPTI QUE ● ERA M ● CAM AIEU ● TILT VINTAGE ● CAFE COTO N ● RUDY’S ● MAJ E ORG ES ● OLIV ER DESF ● STIL ETTO
Global Blue retailer
Non-Global Blue retailer
Metro
Featured in This issue
Department Store
S H O P | 53
aeSoP aesop, known for its refreshingly simple, chic attitude to beauty, has opened a new Saint-Sulpice store that stocks its entire range. Aesop, 5 rue du Vieux Colombier, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4544 8523, aesop.com * for map go to page 48
Rue Vieille du Temple, Rue des Rosiers, Rue des Francs Bourgeois & Rue Pavée BIGUINE STORE ● MOÏA ●
MI-MAI ● JEAN MARIE POINOT ● MAI MAI ● TWINS FOR PEACE ● ● FRED PERRY AMBALI ● GELATI ● ● ZENETHIC P.12 MANOUSH ● JAMIN PUECH ● APRIL, MAY ● ● CORPUS CHRISTI OFFICINA SLOWEAR ● ● AESOP MARIONNAUD ● ● JIMMY FAIRLY ● BERENICE ● PALAIS DES THÉS ● COMPAGNIE DE PROVENCE ● NICKEL ANTOINE ET LILI ● ● OLIVER & CO ● LES GEORGETTES ● ACQUAVERDE ● EMILE LAFAURIE RU REPERAGES EB ● PAUL & JOE MAISON ● AR FRAGONNARD ● ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE CLAUDIE PIERLOT ● BE REPETTO ●
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54 | G U I D E
TOP TIP
PHOTO: XIMENA DANERI
Look out for the free frst Sundays programme, which allows visitors free entry into some of Paris’s best museums and galleries, such as the Louvre, on the frst Sunday of every month, all year round.
Place des Victoires, Rue du Louvre, Rue Montmartre & Rue d’Aboukir EVALON ●
RU E L ÉO P ● JONAK OLD BELL ● CARRÉ BLANC AN I R LOLA KEIM ● VIOLETTA SAUVAGE ● U K ● AGATHA O B DECLERCQ ● ’A L I A D ● NOSE ● SELWYN E DU M E MO+X ● U U R R ● LAMARTHE MAJE ● VENTILO ● ● HARTFORD ● MINELLI R U E B A YAYA STORE ● VICTOIRE ● DO CH AU IN MONT SH IT RIS ● COS ● STELLA FOREST ● R PA T SP HARTFORD ● N N E I E ANTOINE RU E M Place Des CLIO BLUE ● ● EV NPO A ND AR SANDRO ● L VICTORIA COUTURE ● Victoires E ET LILI ● ● ● BO LOLA ● ● IKKS ● FLEURS DE RHUM ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● LES PETITES ● ● G-STAR APOSTROPHE ● ● 58 M CLAUDIE PIERLOT ● ● IRO
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Featured In This Issue
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Place Of Interest
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● ● GIR O -S T AR ●B ● B IL LT O ● G Y M A RR N A D E A ● T S B IJ IE ● S H E KO O U X ● L ANDR OPLES E V I' O S
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Rue de Passy beST PaTISSeRIeS LA MUETTE CY RI LL
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1. La Pâtisserie des Rêves Pâtisserie des Rêves has a deliciously modern approach to sweet treats and the appearance of a sleek concept store. Under glass domes, you’ll fnd classic French pastries such as tarte tatin, made with a modern twist. La Pâtisserie des Rêves, 93 rue du Bac, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4284 0082, lapatisseriedesreves.com 2. Pierre Hermé Known as the master of the macaron, Pierre Hermé’s irresistible creations are a must-try. Look out for seasonal and unusual favours, which have previously included white truffe and tomato ketchup. Pierre Hermé, 72 rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4354 4777, pierreherme.com for map go to page 48
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3. Pâtisserie Stohrer Hailed as the oldest patisserie in Paris, responsible for creating confections for Louis XV, this elaborately decorated bakery is said to be the birthplace of the modern rum baba and its version is still hard to beat. Pâtisserie Stohrer, 51 rue Montorgueil, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4233 3820, stohrer.fr for map go to page 54
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globalblue.com
PHOTO: BERNHARD WINKELMANN
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CITÉ DE L’ARCHITECTURE ET DU PATRIMOINE
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When you shop the world, shop tax free Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop
Charles De Gaulle Airport Terminal 1 First Floor 20
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Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
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Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €175.01 and save an average of 12% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. 61 / Traduction à la page 65
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Galeries Lafayete, 40 boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris UME Galerie du Claridge, 74 avenue des Champs-Elysées, 75008 Paris UME Galerie 66, 66 avenue des Champs-Elysées, 75008 Paris UME Galerie Elysées du 26, 26 avenue des Champs-Elysées, 75008 Paris
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Translations 美文翻译
28: Style For A New Generation 新一代时尚风格 巴黎风 格 的男 装 正 在 被 重 新 演 绎，以 吸引年轻、新潮客户的注意。Ruairidh Pritchard在此介绍几个引领潮流的品牌 巴黎作为世界知名时装品牌的发源地， 由Chanel, Saint Laurent , Christian Dior 和Céline 奠定了高雅品位，巴黎这 个城市毫无疑问是高端时尚的代名词。 但是最近，随着巴黎男装踏上中心舞台 成为瞩目焦点，巴黎开始创建时尚领域 的新篇章。 巴黎成 为两 种风 格势 均力敌 的城 市。一面是经典的巴黎风格，精美别致的 城市男女全身穿着都无可挑剔的永恒巴 黎时尚，另一面是前先锋时尚风格，刚刚 兴起，充满街头流行标签和独立多元品 牌商店特点，迎合法式时尚前沿。 年 轻 式 法国男装设 计的重点在 近 几年已经发生了变化，外观低调，注重品 质— —面料、剪裁和颜色— —摆脱了传 统的巴黎男装装腔作势的特点，服装既 不过分新潮，也不繁琐累赘。 Ami 是巴黎新男装的革命先锋。该 品牌由Alexandre Mattiussi创立，名称 取自他姓名首写字母 A 和 M 及最后一个 字母I，翻译过来是“朋友”的意思。Ami 被誉为是这拨巴黎男装新浪潮背后众多 驱动力之一。 “对于男人来说，Ami 是一个独特 的成衣概念, 可以构成完整的男人衣橱， 精心设计,简单,时尚,最重要的是酷。该系 列具有实用性。是男人真正可以穿的衣 服， ”Mattiussi解释说。他曾效力于Dior, Givenchy 和 Marc Jacobs等公司，改 globalblue.com
进男装系列。去年Mattiussi荣获 Asso-
ciation Nationale pour le Développement des Arts de la Mode (Andam) 大 奖，该奖是法国时尚界年轻设计师的最 高赞誉。Mattiussi与瑞士品牌Bally合作 的精品设计将在今年晚些时候上市。 APC是另一家在国际男装舞台上引 起轰动的法国品牌。A PC 时装品牌（包 括男装、女装、配饰等）由突尼斯裔法国 设计师 Jean Touitou创立，他不仅是该 品牌创意总监还是1992 年Andam大奖 得主。在 Touitou创造性的领导下，从二 十世纪80年代起，APC已定义极简主义 的法国审美，在当时该品牌标志性干净 线条、简约图案和无 logo 精神可以与军 队制服相提并论，导致很多人认为APC 是“反时尚”。 近年来，APC因为未水洗的牛仔制 品大受欢迎；APC镶边编织（selvage） 牛仔如今已成为现代男士衣橱里的主力 军。APC也与饶舌歌手Kanye West合 作，上一季度他刚发布了自己的第二个 APC 限量版系列，把这一品牌介绍给成 千上万新时尚粉丝。该系列在几小时内 就被抢购一空。 巴黎不仅仅拥有令人兴奋的简约男 装品牌，还出现了越来越多的多品牌男 装店，所有出售品牌都体现出巴黎男装 新浪潮审美。 Jo位于蒙马特区 一条小街。商店低 调的灰色外观几乎无法令人猜到店内精 心挑选的商品特点。尽管商店外表低调， 路人一不小心就会错过，Jo确实是值得一 去的好店。店主Stéphane Ramo和他的 妻子Marie-José (‘Jo’)仔细挑选每件商 品，商店内部装修有如外观一样简洁。店 主将精力完全放在货品特点的统一风格 上，而不是提供无穷无尽的选择。店主 关注色彩、剪裁和面料，精心挑选欧洲男 装品牌，确保所售服饰优雅、轻松的设
60 计理念不被动摇。这里的品牌包括巴黎 Emile Lafaurie，瑞典最新单宁宠儿Dr Denim，以及美国经典工装品牌Lee。 Royal Cheese在Tiquetonne大街 有多家精品店，是寻求罕见进口男装的巴 黎时尚粉丝的天堂，包括加利福尼亚街 牌 Stüssy 的成衣，斯德哥尔摩牛仔品牌 Cheap Monday，英国学院派复古品牌 Farah Vintage的针织衫，是所有城市时 髦年轻人的最爱。 位于 Notre - Dame - de - Nazareth 大街的Beaubien 店，是巴黎日益增长的 男装店列表上的新晋成员。主人 Julien Bouzereau来自加拿大蒙特利尔，店名以 蒙特利尔某地铁站命名。这家店也是完 美的时尚男装天堂。商品包括丹麦航海 风品牌Andersen-Andersen，纽约基础 休闲品牌Dana Lee和日本复古牛仔品牌 The One Goods。这家店可能是体现巴 黎男装变化的完美示例，即低调和细节 才是王道。 巴黎将继续满足来自世界各地的时 尚爱好者的需求，但是毫无疑问，简约设 计和多品牌精品店将成为巴黎男装审美 新风尚，吸引新一代时尚绅士的光临。 amiparis.fr, apc.fr, royalcheese.com
36: The Colour Of Passion 热情的颜色 Katy Young说道：时光流逝，红唇魅力 永不褪去 从玛琳•黛德丽到玛莉莲•梦露，杰利•霍 尔到斯嘉莉•约翰逊，红唇恒久经典，流 行永不退。早在伊丽莎白一世时期的英 格兰，红唇就因女王的喜爱流行起来，千 百年来，红唇永远让人感觉到神秘与诱 惑。著名化妆师 Linda Andersson说， 红色的唇膏 永 远是 化 妆包 里不 可缺 少 的。她开创的＂红唇计划＂鼓励女性使用 鲜艳的红色唇膏，让越来越多的英国人 意识到女性的健康问题。 globalblue.com
她的想法是对的。而这一想法在彩 妆行业也不是第一次提出了。著名品牌 魅可（MAC）就表示，红色的唇膏，尤其 是它的经典色号＂Russian Red＂将品牌 推向全球。巴黎著名品牌圣罗兰（YSL） 和香奈儿（Chanel）甚至为红唇研发了 全套产品，分别叫做＂Rouge Pur Couture＂和＂Rouge Coco＂。 除了 彩 妆 专 柜 之 外，在 引 导 流 行 走 向 的 时装 秀上，每 一 季 的 流 行 元 素 中都少不了红 唇。2 014 的秋冬新品也 不例外，Vivienne Westwood鲜艳的 红，Prada浓郁深沉的红，Max Mara哑 光且冷艳的性感红。 在 红 毯 上，红 唇 也 非 常 普 遍，无 论影视新星如 Olsen 姐妹花，Jennifer Lawrence，《暮光之城》女主角Kristen Stuart，还是老牌好莱坞明星，都可见其 亮丽红唇妆。Andersson认为，红唇之所 以经典永不退流行是因为它很百搭。 她觉得每个女性都应该拥有一只红 色的唇膏，红色有不同的色调，比粉色、 裸色更衬人、更百搭。红唇可以打造不同 妆效，和眼线搭配使人性感，裸装配红唇 冷艳动人。如果您还没挑选到一个最适 合自己的色号，Andersson的建议是冷色 调的皮肤应选择蓝调的红，而暖色皮肤 则应选择橙色调的红。＂但这不是绝对 的。化妆应多尝试，你需要去发现那款质 地、颜色都最适合你的红色唇膏。＂ 国际知名的唇 膏 专家，L i p s t i c k Queen创始人Poppy King也提供了一 个小贴士— —在家里待 着也要 涂抹 红 唇。虽然听起来怪怪的，但这对不自信的 新手很有帮助。自Vogue 杂志上看到杰 莉•霍尔起，King 就爱上了红唇。＂杰莉 拥有世界上最令人羡慕的嘴唇之一，无 论面对任何人你都能感觉到她的自信， 她掌握了自己的命运。杰莉看起来很坚 强的样子，打扮也很有气场：红色的比基 尼、红色的甲油和红色的唇膏。＂在那一 瞬间，King 发现，红唇是一个恒久的美 颜利器，让自己也可以变得像杰莉•霍尔， 即使原本长的根本不像。 “长得不像没
61 关系，因为我有嘴唇，我可以把它化成红 唇；只要我有这张红唇，我也可以同样美 丽动人。” 曾经有这样一种理论，伴随着经济 下滑，口红这种价格较低的奢华商品，其 销量可能会不断攀升。我们不确定用唇 膏为指标来看一个国家的经济还是否有 用，但MAC的高级副总裁 James Gager 表示，销量上升证明了只要价钱合理，唇 膏永远是女性必买的单品，它能快速地 改变妆容和服饰搭配。 据 称 ，浓 郁 的 红 色 会 使 心 律 加 速。King 解释说＂它能快速释放血液中 的肾上腺素＂。Andersson认为红色唇膏 使女性充满活力并令人迅速感到开心。 这么说来，我们对红唇的热爱更能体现 的是我们的心理而非经济上的情况。
联系方式：
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28: Style for a new Generation Du Style Pour Une Nouvelle Génération La mode masculine parisienne se réinvente pour attirer une clientèle plus jeune et plus
56: When you shop the world, shop tax free
branchée. Ruairidh Pritchard dresse le profl des marques qui font la tendance du moment
畅购全球，尊享退税 Paris étant la ville de quelques unes des
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27 万多家商 店消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购 物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您 节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝 联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎 能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或 者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程：
maisons de couture les plus renommées au monde, parmi lesquelles Chanel, Saint Laurent, Christian Dior ou Céline, il est impossible de renier son statut de haut lieu de la haute-couture; plus récemment, la ville a toutefois entamé un nouveau chapitre de son histoire de la mode, la scène de la mode masculine parisienne y occupant désormais une place centrale. La mode parisienne présente désormais deux visages. D'un côté il y a le
1. 消费购物
Paris classique, une ville de femmes et
无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退 税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form)， 并记得保存小票。
d'hommes
chics
et
impeccablement
habillés des pieds à la tête dans un style parisien intemporel, et de l'autre l'ancienne scène underground de la mode
2. 申请退税
parisienne qui depuis peu sort de l'ombre
当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市 的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖 章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点领取您 的退税款。
avec des marques d'inspiration streetwear et des boutiques multi-marques indépendantes au style plus branché et tendance. La création française pour hommes a évolué ces dernières années, avec
62 des looks discrets centrés sur l'essentiel
laquelle les lignes épurées, les modèles
(les tissus, les coupes, les couleurs) et une
simples et l'esprit anti-logos qui étaient
création de vêtements qui n'est ni gui-
la signature d'APC se rapprochaient des
dée par les tendances, ni alourdie par les
uniformes militaires, amenant beaucoup
apparats de la mode masculine parisienne
à considérer la marque comme « anti-
traditionnelle.
mode ».
Ami est à l'avant-garde de ce renou-
Au cours des dernières années, la
veau de la mode masculine parisienne. Le
marque a connu un regain de popularité
nom de la marque, créée par Alexandre
grâce à son utilisation du denim brut. Le
Mattiussi, se compose de ses initiales et
jean APC avec lisière est en efet devenu
de la dernière lettre de son nom. Ami
un incontournable de la garde-robe mas-
est considérée par beaucoup comme l'un
culine moderne. Il y a également eu plu-
des principaux acteurs de cette nouvelle
sieurs collaborations avec le rappeur
vague de la mode masculine parisienne.
Kanye West qui a lancé sa deuxième col-
« Ami est un concept unique de
lection capsule en édition limitée avec la
prêt-à-porter pour hommes, une garde-
marque de la saison dernière, faisant ainsi
robe complète, bien conçue, pratique,
connaître APC à des milliers de nouveaux
chic et surtout décontractée. Cette col-
fans de mode. La collection s'est entière-
lection ne fait pas dans la fantaisie. Il
ment vendue en à peine quelques heures.
s'agit d'une proposition de vrais vête-
Paris ne compte pas que de for-
ments pour des hommes de la "vraie vie"
midables marques de mode masculine
», explique Alexandre Mattiussi, qui a tra-
minimalistes ; les rues de la ville voient
vaillé auparavant pour Dior, Givenchy
également apparaître de plus en plus de
et Marc Jacobs à améliorer leurs lignes
boutiques multi-marques pour hommes
masculines. L'an dernier, il a également
qui adhèrent à la nouvelle esthétique de la
remporté le prix de l'Association natio-
mode masculine parisienne.
nale pour le développement des arts de la
Jo se situe dans une petite rue de
mode (ANDAM), l'une des plus hautes
Montmartre. La discrète façade grise
distinctions de l'industrie de la mode
de la boutique révèle peu des collections
française remises à de jeunes créateurs, et
sélectionnées avec soin qui sont présen-
une collection capsule réalisée en collab-
tées à l'intérieur. Même si l'on pourrait
oration avec la marque suisse Bally sera
aisément vous pardonner de passer à côté,
lancée dans le courant de cette année.
Jo est un magasin à ne pas rater. Les pro-
Une autre marque française qui
priétaires Stéphane Ramo et son épouse
a actuellement le vent en poupe sur la
Marie-José (« Jo ») choisissent avec soin
scène de la mode masculine internatio-
chaque article et l'approche minimali-
nale est APC. Cette marque, qui propose
ste de l'extérieur du magasin se prolonge
des collections pour hommes et femmes,
à l'intérieur où l'accent est mis unique-
a été créée par le styliste franco-tunisien
ment sur les principes de création des col-
Jean Touitou, son directeur créatif, qui a
lections choisies, plutôt que sur une ofre
reçu en 1992 le prix de l'ANDAM. Sous
sans fn. Une grande attention est appor-
la direction artistique de Touitou, APC
tée aux couleurs, aux coupes et aux tis-
défnit l'esthétique minimaliste française
sus, avec des marques européennes soi-
depuis la fn des années 1980, époque à
gneusement sélectionnées pour ne pas
globalblue.com
63 compromettre la philosophie d'élégance
génération d'hommes élégants.
et de simplicité de la boutique. Des
amiparis.fr, apc.fr, royalcheese.com,
marques telles que l'enseigne parisienne
beaubienstore.com
Emile Lafaurie ou Dr Denim, nouvelle coqueluche suédoise du jean, côtoient ici
36: The Colour Of Passion
la marque américaine classique Lee.
La Couleur De La Passion
Royal Cheese, qui occupe plusieurs boutiques sur la rue Tiquetonne, est un paradis pour les fans de mode parisiens à la recherche d'importations de vêtements pour hommes rares, comme des articles de la marque de streetwear californienne Stüssy, des jeans de Cheap Monday, marque basée à Stockholm, et des vêtements en maille de la marque britannique rétro-vintage Farah Vintage, qui rencontrent tous un grand succès dans les clubs enfants de la ville. Un nouveau nom s'est récemment ajouté à la liste grandissante des boutiques de mode pour hommes de la ville : Beaubien, rue Notre-Dame-deNazareth. Nommé d'après une station de métro de Montréal, ville natale du proPHOTO: © gOrunway.cOm
priétaire Julien Bouzereau, le magasin est un autre exemple de paradis de la mode masculine parfaitement organisé. Il propose notamment des articles d'inspiration nautique de la marque danoise AndersenAndersen, des basiques décontractés de la marque new yorkaise Dana Lee et des
Le rouge à lèvres rouge reste un intemporel du
articles en jean avec lisière de la marque
chic et de la séduction, comme a pu le décou-
japonaise The One Goods. Le magasin
vrir Katy Young
constitue peut-être un exemple parfait du paysage en pleine évolution de la mode
De Marlène Dietrich à Marilyn Monroe,
masculine parisienne où le style sobre et
en passant par Jerry Hall ou Scarlett
discret est aujourd'hui roi.
Johansson, il y a quelque chose dans un
Paris continuera de satisfaire les
rouge à lèvres rouge sur les lèvres d'une
passionnés de haute-couture du monde
femme qui transcende les époques et reste
entier, mais la nouvelle tendance du
toujours original et tendance. Des civil-
minimalisme et des boutiques bien
isations antiques qui l'utilisaient pour
organisées deviendra sans nul doute la
orner les visages à l'Angleterre élisabé-
nouvelle esthétique de la mode pour hom-
thaine, durant laquelle la reine en avait
mes parisienne qui attire une nouvelle
fait un accessoire de mode, le rouge à
64 lèvres rouge a tout au long de l'histoire
avoir son propre rouge à lèvres rouge. «
conservé une part de mystère, de charme
Il existe tellement de tonalités de rouges
et de séduction. « Le rouge à lèvres rouge
diférentes qu'il peut convenir selon moi à
est sans conteste l'accessoire le plus
davantage de visages que les teintes roses
intemporel de votre trousse à maquillage
et nude. Il permet également de créer
», déclare Linda Andersson, maquilleuse
des looks très diférents : portez-le par
et initiatrice du "Red Lippy Project" qui
exemple avec un eyeliner et vous aurez
a permis de sensibiliser aux problèmes
un look sexy ; portez-le sur un visage nu
de santé des femmes au Royaume-Uni
et vous arborerez un look plus audacieux
en encourageant les femmes à porter un
». Si vous n'avez pas encore trouvé votre
rouge à lèvres rouge brillant.
rouge parfait, Linda Andersson suggère
Elle a raison. Et les marques de cos-
un rouge avec une tonalité de bleu pour
métiques ne s'y trompent pas. La marque
les peaux claires et un rouge plus orangé
Mac Cosmetics explique ainsi que c'est
pour les peaux mates. « Mais il n'y a pas
un rouge à lèvres rouge, le Russian
de règles. Le maquillage est quelque
Red, qui l'a rendue célèbre, tandis que
chose avec lequel il ne faut pas hésiter
les marques emblématiques de la scène
à jouer ! Il vous suft de trouver la tex-
parisienne de la beauté, YSL et Chanel,
ture et la nuance qui vous conviennent »,
ont toutes deux une collection entière
ajoute-t-elle.
basée sur le rouge, respectivement Rouge Pur Couture et Rouge Coco.
Poppy King, experte internationale du rouge à lèvres, fondatrice de
Si l'on s'éloigne des rayons maquil-
Lipstick Queen et accro auto-déclarée
lage pour s'intéresser aux déflés qui
au rouge, a une autre astuce. Elle suggère
défnissent les tendances, là aussi il
de s'entraîner à porter un rouge à lèvres
sera difcile de trouver une saison sans
rouge chez soi. Cela peut paraître bizarre,
rouges à lèvres rouge. Pour la collec-
mais cette technique fonctionne parfaite-
tion automne/hiver 2014, vous trouverez
ment si vous « débutez » dans le rouge à
des rouges à lèvres rouges sous toutes
lèvres rouge et que vous n'êtes pas sûre
les formes : brillant et estompé chez
de vous.
Vivienne Westwood, riche et équilibré
Cela n'a jamais vraiment été un pro-
chez Prada ou encore mat, léger et sexy
blème pour Poppy King. Elle est tom-
chez Max Mara.
bée amoureuse du rouge après avoir vu
Sur le tapis rouge, le rouge à lèvres
Jerry Hall dans les pages d'un magazine
rouge se fait caméléon, ce qui signife
Vogue. « Elle possédait deux des moues
que vous pourrez aussi bien le voir sur les
les plus convoitées au monde : la sienne
nouvelles venues à Hollywood, comme
et celle de Mick Jagger. Elle semblait faire
les sœurs Olsen, Jennifer Lawrence ou
face au monde avec confance. Elle don-
Kristen Stewart, que sur les stars con-
nait l'impression de contrôler sa desti-
frmées. « Je pense que la raison pour
née. Jerry avait une présence et un look
laquelle le rouge à lèvres rouge est un
forts : bikini rouge, vernis à ongles rouge,
classique qui ne se démodera jamais est
rouge à lèvres rouge ». C'est à ce moment
qu'il a de multiples facettes », explique
que Poppy King a pris conscience que
Linda Andersson.
le rouge à lèvres rouge était « un outil de
Pour elle, chaque femme devrait
globalblue.com
l'instant, transfgurant la puissance qui
65 pouvait me donner l'impression d'être
meilleurs
Jerry Hall même si je ne lui ressemblerais
monde entier.
quartiers
commerçants
du
jamais. Ce que j'avais, c'était mes lèvres, et aussi longtemps que je les aurai, je
Alors pourquoi ne pas rejoindre les 26
pourrai aussi les peindre en rouge, et aussi
millions de voyageurs qui se font chaque
longtemps que j'aurai les lèvres rouges, je
année exonérer de taxes sur leurs achats
pourrai vivre dans un univers glamour ».
grâce à Global Blue? Il vous sufra sim-
Il existe une théorie selon laquelle
plement de rechercher les commerçants
les ventes de rouges à lèvres, un article
afchant notre sigle représentant une
de luxe relativement peu coûteux, aug-
étoile bleue ou de demander Global Blue,
menteraient en période d'incertitude
puis de suivre notre processus simple.
économique. Il n'est pas certain que l'« indice rouge à lèvres » reste une mesure
1. Magasin
fable de l'économie d'un pays. Mais
Quel que soit l'endroit où vous faites vos
selon James Gager, vice-président senior
achats, demandez un bordereau de détaxe
de Mac, la hausse des ventes « démontre
Global Blue et pensez à bien conserver
que le rouge à lèvres constitue un "acces-
vos tickets de caisse.
soire miracle" qu'une femme peut acheter à un prix raisonnable. Elle peut également
2. Demande de remboursement
l'utiliser comme un accessoire pour com-
Lorsque vous vous apprêtez à rentrer chez
pléter sa garde-robe et parfaire son look
vous, rendez-vous au service des douanes
très rapidement. »
situé sur votre lieu de départ afn de faire
On dit du rouge intense qu'il accé-
approuver vos tickets de caisse, puis venez
lère le rythme cardiaque et, comme
chercher votre remboursement dans l'un
l'explique Poppy King, qu'il « libère de
de nos bureaux de service client.
l'adrénaline dans votre système sanguin ». « Le rouge à lèvres rouge donne incroy-
Contact :
ablement confance aux femmes et peut
taxfree@globalblue.com
transformer votre journée en une sec-
+421 232 111 111
onde », afrme Linda Andersson. Si l'on
Dépensez
s'appuie sur ça, notre obsession de longue
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66 | P RO D U C T S
Souvenir
BACK TO SCHOOL The timeless design of this briefcase satchel from Parisian leather specialist Le Tanneur is a surefre investment piece which will see you through many seasons to come. The sturdy double-strap buckles will ensure your laptop and documents are reassuringly secure in transit, while the full-grain leather has been expertly bevelled
in the house’s signature style. The company was established in 1898, with the launch of founder Charles Bonnardelle’s innovative seamless money purse design. We love this burgundy version of the Gaston for its vintage schoolboy charm – it’s also available in classic black. gl Le Tanneur Gaston briefcase, €495, Le Tanneur, 13 rue de Passy, 75016 Paris, +39 (0)1 4288 7587, letanneur.com for map go to page 55
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www.napapijri.com
NAPAPIJRI PARIS 55, Rue de Rennes Le Village Royal, 25 Rue Royale