SHOP Rome SS14

The spirit of travel. D ow n l o a d t h e L o u i s Vu i t t o n p a s s a p p t o reve a l exc l u s i ve c o n t e n t . R O M A , P i a z z a S a n L o r e n z o i n L u c i n a , 41 - V i a C o n d o t t i , 13

MONTBL ANC

NICOLAS RIEUSSEC CHRONOGR APH AUTOMATIC

A tribute to Nicolas Rieussec, the inventor of the first patented chronograph. Montblanc , second time Manufacture Calibre zone with day and night display. Crafted in the Montblanc Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland.

Montblanc Boutique Roma - Via Condotti 70 - Ph. +39 (0)6 69941894 Visit and shop montblanc.com

Via Condotti 49/50, Roma SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM

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Welcome to Rome This SHOP guide will help you discover all that Rome has to ofer, including the best luxury department stores, boutiques and concept stores, as well as recommendations for restaurants, bars and special places to visit. We also reveal a style insider’s guide to Rome (page 56) and profle the city’s ultramodern interior design stores (page 64). The new Global Blue mobile app is a great way to fnd the latest on your chosen destination – there are details in the news section (page 54). As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes essential guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. For the very latest information, visit our website, globalblue.com, fnd us on Facebook at Facebook.com/GlobalBlue, follow us on Twitter @GlobalBlue or email me at echeevers@globalblue.com. Claiming your tax savings is even easier with the new Global Blue Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all the details on the Global Blue website.

Emma Cheevers globalblue.com

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Contributors

PHOTO: BRAd CLARke PHOTOgRAPHy

ILLUSTRATION: PIeTARI POSTI

Pietari Posti Pietari Posti created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Rome. His elegant, expressive artwork has previously been commissioned by Omega, American Express and the New York Times, among others. Pietari’s ability to take a conceptual brief and give it a graceful fnish makes him the perfect illustrator for this cover, inspired by our feature on Rome’s fashion map (page 56). It shows a timelessly stylish woman wearing a map of the city as a print on her skirt, in a nod to the classic flm Roman Holiday. Read more about our illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Kirsty Andrews SHOP’s assistant picture editor Kirsty Andrews is partial to gripping crime novels and round-the-world trips. She is often found patiently cutting out a product shot or exploring the countryside with a fat tyre and an overnight bag. globalblue.com

Verity Hogan History graduate Verity Hogan swapped writing about crinolines for more contemporary clothes when she moved to London to pursue journalism. She now works as SHOP’s city guide and lifestyle editor.

Sally McIlhone SHOP’s managing editor Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, designers and writers, to ensure she stays on top of the latest developments in style and design. Sally has contributed to Stylist, Shortlist and Total Film online.

Pal Zileri Roma Via Frattina, 40 - T. 06 6795041 www.palzileri.com

Shop Floor E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Pietari Posti Contributor Charlie Neidpath Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Stephen Doig City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan Fashion and news editor Dominique Fenn Assistant fashion and market editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion and news editors Hannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion assistant Gemma Latham Editorial interns India Block, Sammy Ha Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew Picture editor Dorcas Brown Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya Artworker Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau

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Digital manager Eamonn Leacy Digital production manager Funmi Paul-Taiwo Product manager Luca Russo Project manager Omar Haque International digital marketing executive Nina Kobalia Digital production assistant Paul Lecoanet Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution project manager Claudia Suárez Print Dane Consultancy G L O B A L B L U E I TA LY Country manager Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales managers Antonella Bertossi, Flavio Gatti Marketing sales specialist Eleonora Busico Sales key account manager Salvatore Smith Sales account manager Erika Zahar International key account managers Stefano Cardinale, Sabrina Schiavone Key account managers Monica Affaticati, Benedetta Andreini, Caterina De Bernardo, Manuela Intili, Consuelo Murari, Alberta Reinach, Marco Savino Account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Nadia Busletta, Gloria Di Domenico, Laura Durante, Gabriele Giuntini, Francesca Ramiccia, Giordano Senzacqua Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese, Italy

The paper in this brochure is elemental chlorine free and is PEFC accredited. It is printed to ISO 14001 environmental procedures, using vegetable based inks.The PEFC Council (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certifcation schemes) is an independent, non-proft, nongovernmental organisation which promotes responsible management of the world’s forests. Forest certifcation is combined with a product labelling that allows consumers to readily identify timber based products from certifed forests.

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

ROMA via Frattina 129/131 via Appia Nuova 7/11 via del Corso 89/90 c.c. Euroma 2 c.c. Porta di Roma

MILLA JovovIch MARELLA.COM

Contents

PHOTO: ALFONSO CATALANO/SGP ITALIA

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P ro d u c t s 30 Check Out sHoP selects a standout piece from rome this season 32 My Favourites shoe designer charline de Luca and cristiano Perfetti, co-founder of the strategic Business unit label, reveal their top tips for summer 2014 36 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N ews 46 Shop Window one store not to be missed in rome 48 News seasonal updates on shops, services and new products Above: The new Versace boutique on Piazza di Spagna

F e at u r e s 56 Cover Story: Style Miles From the ancient source of today’s fashionable gladiator look to the streets and gardens where audrey Hepburn and caravaggio once walked, charlie Neidpath ofers a style insider’s guide to rome 64 Inside Story rome’s historic streets are home to a fourishing array of ultramodern interior design stores, writes sally McIlhone 72 Made By Hand connoisseurs of craftsmanship will appreciate rome’s artisanal heritage brands. stephen doig presents a selection of the best

Contents E x pE r i E ncE 80 Table Talk rome’s fnest restaurants showcase traditional cuisine and local ingredients while also embracing culinary innovation. verity Hogan explores a selection Gu i dE 84 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of rome

EssEnti a ls 110 How To Shop Tax Free the simple steps to saving money on your shopping t r a n s l at i o n s 112 Русский Перевод 120 美文翻译 125 日本語翻訳 sou v E n i r 130 the essential item to bring home

don’t waste a minute on your travels – use our dedicated destination and product guides. We take you through the most exclusive local shopping areas and give you in-depth buying advice on how to make a great investment in the right luxury piece.

E nGl i sH | Р ус с к и й | 中文

the latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

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Win monthly competitions We’ve got great giveaways for our readers to win, from the latest accessories and shopping vouchers to luxury hotels stays.

PHOTO: © MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

Destination & buyinG GuiDes

ROMA

Via del Babuino 20 | Tel. +39 06 32651256 Via Cola di Rienzo 266 | Tel. +39 06 68807902 Via del Corso c/o Gall. A. Sordi 27/28 | Tel. +39 06 69202079 Via Appia Nuova 168/170 | Tel. +39 06 77204466

boggi.com | shop.boggi.com

30 | P RO D U C T S

THE ALLURE OF EGYPT Few brands capture the old-school glamour of Rome quite like Bulgari, which was founded in the city. This season, the star of the show is the Diva Collection, a fne jewellery range inspired by the make-up worn by Elizabeth Taylor, a devoted customer of Bulgari, in the flm Cleopatra. Also inspired by the god Horus, who was associated with prosperity and good health in ancient Egypt, the Diva Collection is exotic and beguiling. These pink gold chandelier earrings, dotted Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 110

with amethysts, peridots, rubellites and pavé diamonds, need little introduction. A seriously show-stopping pair, they are testament to the Italian fashion house’s vivacious style and exquisite skill. Keep all other accessories to a minimum and prepare for a furry of admiring glances and compliments. irs Bulgari Diva Collection gold earrings with amethysts, peridots, rubellites and pavé diamonds, €21,000, Bulgari, Via dei Condotti 10, 00187 Rome, +39 06 696261, bulgari.com * for map go to page 94

PHOTO: STudiO OrizzOnTe/anTOniO barrella

Check Out

32 | P RO D U C T S

My Favourites: Cristiano Perfetti Brothers Cristiano and Patrizio Perfetti founded Strategic Business Unit in 1993, launching not only the label but also the fagship store, located in their home city of Rome. SBU aims to provide the perfect contemporary wardrobe and the line ofers menswear, womenswear and accessories. The store is also home to a selection of carefully selected international brands chosen to complement the SBU aesthetic. Cristiano Perfetti shares his picks for the season with Hannah Lewis

3. ‘The best souvenir from Rome is cofee and chocolate from Sant’Eustachio cafè’

Baxter Chester Moon sofa, price on request, Baxter Garage, Via Gregorio VII 310, 00165 Rome, +39 06 3938 8109, baxter.it

Sant’Eustachio Il Café, Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6880 2048, santeustachioilcafe.it

2. ‘My favourite product from SBU’s spring/summer 2014 collection is a pair of pure indigo dyed selvedge jeans’ Strategic Business Unit jeans, €195, Strategic Business Unit, Via Di San Pantaleo 68-69, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6880 2547, sbu.it

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 110

4. ‘I can’t live without my Rolex. Rolex watches are a symbol of elegance combined with action. Our father always wears one and we continue the tradition’ Rolex GMT-Master II, price on request, Hausmann & Co, Via del Babuino 62-63, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3211 0100, rolex.com

PHOTO: (TOP) Okuyama miTSuHirO PHOTO Office

1. ‘My favourite interiors brand is Baxter, in particular their sofas’

S H O P | 33

PHOTOS: (2) aLeSSaNDrO rOSSeTTi; (4) © rOLex/cLauDe BOSSi

5. ‘The quality of the materials and the specialised components and production elevates Tricker’s Goodyear welted shoes above any others. We are very proud to have a special line dedicated and branded specially for SBU’ Tricker’s boots, €550, Strategic Business Unit, Via Di San Pantaleo 68-69, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6880 2547, trickers.com

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34 | P RO D U C T S

My Favourites: Charline De Luca Born and raised in Rome, shoe designer Charline De Luca studied architecture in New York before graduating from London’s prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Arts and Design. In 2012 she was given special recognition in Vogue Italia’s Who’s on Next international competition. De Luca returned to Rome in 2009 and launched her eponymous collection in 2011. She shares her favourite tips for summer in Rome with SHOP’s Ximena Daneri

PHOTO: CARLO ZIMATORE

1. ‘My beauty retreat: if I want a very good massage I go to Kami Spa’ Kami Spa, Via degli Avignonesi 11, 00187 Rome, +39 06 4201 0039, kamispa.com

2. ‘Every Sunday in Piazza Porta Portese, you can fnd whatever you want at the fea market, from vintage clothes to books, home décor and even parrots!’ Porta Portese, Via di Porta Portese, 00153 Rome, portaportese.it

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 110

3. ‘If you want to taste a flone or a rosetta – typical Roman breads – or just a cookie, this place is a wonderland for bakery lovers’ Antico Forno Roscioli, Via dei Chiavari 34, 00186 Rome, +39 06 686 4045, salumeriaroscioli.com

S H O P | 35

4. ‘I love my Artemide sandals, perfect for every occasion. They are a musthave for every fashionista’

5. ‘Anamalier & Oltre is without doubt a very curious boutique!’ Anamalier & Oltre ,

Charline De Luca Artemide sandals, €420, Mon Reve, Piazzale del Parco della Rimembranza 10, 00197 Rome, +39 06 6401 4664, charlinedeluca.com

Via Margutta 47, 00187 Rome, +39 06 320 8282, animaliereoltre.com

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36 | P RO D U C T S

IN TRANSIT Luxurious, innovative accessories are a travel essential

1. Bowers & Wilkins P7 headphones, €399.99, PerPiacere, Auditorium Parco Della Musica, Viale Pietro de Coubertin 22, 00196 Rome, +39 06 8069 0384, bowers-wilkins.co.uk

2. Tod’s backpack, €25,500, Tod’s, Via dei Condotti 53A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 699 1089, tods.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 110

3. Montblanc iPad Case, €610, Montblanc, Via dei Condotti 70, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 1894, montblanc.com

S H O P | 37

PHOTO: (5) © Brian YOung PHOTOgraPHY; (8) STefanO Saccani

4. Rimowa suitcase, €422, Mitsukoshi, Via Nazionale 259, 00184 Rome, +39 06 482 7828, rimowa.de 5. Barbour hat, €65, WP, Via di San Sebastianello 6B, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6457, barbour.com

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6. Louis Vuitton picnic blanket, €1,500, Louis Vuitton, Via dei Condotti 13-15, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 0000, louisvuitton.com 7. Mykita sunglasses, from €395, Astrologo Ottica, Via di Fontanella Borghese 25-26, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6819 3071, mykita.com

8. Bally Sedwich bag, €795, Bally, Via dei Condotti 36, 00187 Rome, +39 06 699 0236, bally.com

38 | P RO D U C T S

MOTORCYCLE DIARIES

Biker chic is given a luxe update thanks to exotic textures and refned detailing 1

1. Roberto Coin rings, from €1,832, Roberto Coin, Via Vittoria 9, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3265 2439, robertocoin.com

3. Pinko jacket, €695, Pinko, Piazza Colonna 29-30, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6979 7730, pinko.it

2. Blumarine shoes, €600, Blumarine, Via Borgognona 31, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 0951, blumarine.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 110

4. Coccinelle Barrel bag, €298, Coccinelle, Via Cola di Rienzo 253-255, 00192 Rome, +39 06 324 1749, coccinelle.com

PHOTO: (1) AndreA FerrerO; (4) rOberTO CenTAmOre

40 | P RO D U C T S

JUST PEACHY

Play with the trend for pastels using fun, feminine accessories

5 2

1. Furla Candy bag, €180, Furla, Via dei Condotti 55-56, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 1973, furla.com

3. Rosantica Orchidea necklace, €486, Gente, Via del Babuino 185, 00187 Rome, +39 06 322 5954, rosantica.com

2. Church’s Kalila slippers, €300, Church’s, Via dei Condotti 57, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6919 0920, church-footwear.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 110

4. Shourouk Lady Lollypop earrings, €500, Gente, Viale Europa 95, 00144 Rome, +39 06 592 6414, shourouk.com 5. Liu Jo wallet, €69, Liu Jo, Via del Corso 137, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6938 0954, liujo.it

S/S 2014 SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM

PIAZZA COLONNA 40/41 VIA COLA DI RIENZO 155 VIA FRATTINA 42/43

42 | P RO D U C T S

mORE IS mORE When it comes to accessories, this season is wonderfully maximalist – add statement pieces to a simple day dress for a bold, over-the-top look 1

1. Levi’s dress, €119.95, Levi’s, Via del Corso 479, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6840 4711, levi.com

2. Dolce & Gabbana shoes, price on request, Dolce & Gabbana, Via dei Condotti 51-52, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 4999, dolcegabbana.com

3. Emilio Pucci belt, €850, Emilio Pucci, Piazza di Spagna 87, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 4058, emiliopucci.com 4. Hermès Folklore scarf, €620, Hermès, Via dei Condotti 67, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 1882, hermes.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 110

PHOTO: (2) GIAMPIERO ALESSANDRINI; (4) VICENTE SAHUC

shop.santonishoes.com

44 | P RO D U C T S

MONOCHROME MIX Shake up a monochrome look by clashing textures and print, and adding a pop of colour 1

1. Escada top, €1,300, Escada, Piazza di Spagna 7-8, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6995, escada.com

3. Burberry pencil skirt, €495, Burberry, Via dei Condotti 59-61, 00187 Rome, +39 06 675 0101, burberry.com

2. Hugo Boss sandals, €499, Hugo Boss, Via Frattina 146-147, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6173, hugoboss.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 110

4. Jimmy Choo clutch, price on request, Jimmy Choo, Via dei Condotti 68, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 2667, jimmychoo.com

PHOTO: (4) RicHaRd GReen

46 | N E W S

PHOTO: ALFONSO CATALANO/SGP ITALIA

Shop Window

VERSACE’S NEW HERITAGE Versace is always at the forefront of modern and edgy designs yet it is also a brand that places great emphasis on its heritage. This relationship between past and future can clearly be seen in the brand’s newly opened boutique in Rome’s Piazza di Spagna, the second Versace store in Rome. The new boutique features mosaic foors inspired by Byzantine churches Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 110

of the ninth century, contrasted with futuristic Perspex walls and shelves. Created in collaboration with English architect Jamie Fobert, this skilful blend of traditional Italian opulence and architectural style perfectly mirrors Versace’s own balance between old and new. Versace’s prêt-à-porter collections for men and women are stocked in the new store alongside an extensive range of accessories. kr Versace, Piazza di Spagna 12/Via San Sebastianello, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 0521, versace.com * for map go to page 90

WE ARE CONNECTED #DiEsElREbOOT DiEsEl sTORE ROMA CORsO Via del Corso, 118 NEXT OPENiNG APRil 2014: Piazza di spagna,18 - angolo Vicolo del bottino, 1 Roma

48 | N E W S

LOEWE ARRIVES IN ROME

TOP 3 Caffès There’s no better place to unwind after a hard day’s shopping than in one of Rome’s many historic cafés, which are appreciated by visitors and locals alike. A select few among them are even protected by the Associazione Negozi Storici di Eccellenza di Roma, an organisation which preserves the city’s retail heritage. SHOP selects three of the most picturesque and characterful places to eat and drink 1

Ever popular with the most stylish Italians, Caffè Ciampini, at its best in the summer months, is a wonderful place to drink or dine al fresco. Its location on a traffic-free piazza adds to its old-world charm. Caffè Ciampini, Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina 29, 00186 Rome, +39 06 687 6606, ciampini.com

Said to be the first tea rooms established in Rome, Babington’s has been serving luxury teas and delectable snacks since 1893 when it was founded by English aristocrats. This unique meeting of British and Italian influences is not to be missed. Babington’s Tea Rooms, Piazza di Spagna 23, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6027, babingtons.com

Opened in 1760, Antico Caffè Greco is a contender for the title of the oldest bar in Rome. A favourite haunt of many notable Italians over the years, it remains a popular spot with creatives and intellectuals to this day. Antico Caffè Greco, Via dei Condotti 86, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 1700, anticocaffegreco.eu

Loewe, known for exquisite leather goods, has unveiled its frst standalone Italian store in Rome. The Spanish luxury brand’s new two-storey boutique is fttingly located close to the Piazza di Spagna and the Spanish Steps. Designed by architect Peter Marino, a fashion-house favourite, the space has an warm, elegant atmosphere. Stucco walls in white and three diferent shades of gold are juxtaposed with brass shelves and curtains in gold leather – the material that has made Loewe a leading luxury brand. On the ground foor you’ll fnd the latest accessories, including bags, silk scarves, belts and sunglasses for both men and women. Upstairs, where visitors can enjoy the view of the Spanish Steps, is devoted to womenswear, the Leather Icons collection and the VIP Room. Fans of Loewe’s best selling Amazona bag should visit the in-store Amazona Atelier, which ofers a bespoke service for Loewe’s classic tote. irs Loewe,

Piazza di Spagna 70-71, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 3598, loewe.com * for map go to page 90

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 110

S H O P | 49

PHOTO: PAPEROPOLI/MATTIA GELSI

AMAZING GREYS

WHEN MARELLA MET MILLA This season Marella continues its collaboration with Milla Jovovich, producing Milla’s Bag for spring/summer. Encapsulating the actress and model’s simple, elegant approach to fashion, the new bag, which is made in Italy, is a classic over-the-shoulder design with a statement buckle. An adjustable strap makes Milla’s Bag the perfect dayto-night accessory. This season the bag is available in three diferent but equally tempting styles. Choose between the pure white leather version with a python-print calfskin fap, the tropical model with ostrich and crocodile patchwork or our favourite, the charming Lagoon mini bag. Turquoise and cheerfully bright, its dual-purpose strap makes it ideal for summer getaways. irs Marella,

Via Frattina, 129-131, 00187 Rome, +39 06 69923800, marella.com * for map go to page 94 globalblue.com

From pewter to silver to charcoal, Brioni’s latest collection is proof that grey is anything but boring. Creative director Brendan Mullane has taken the art and architecture of Rome, Brioni’s home town, as the starting point for a sleek and fashion-forward menswear collection, using a diverse range of infuences including the Pantheon and the Vatican museums. Graphic lines and structured layers have been incorporated into Brioni’s aesthetic: classic suits get a contemporary twist with subtle patterns and slim cuts while a collaboration with Fredrikson Stallard has resulted in accessories including a yellow-gold tie pin and cufinks which are perfect against crisp white shirts. hl Brioni, Via Barberini 79, 00187 Rome, +39 06 484517, brioni.com * for map go to page 101

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DODO GETS LUCKY Dodo has chosen the ladybird, an international symbol of good fortune, as its latest charm. The new 3D charm, Miss Ladybug, is available in rose gold, resin and enamel and is decked out in a chic red coat with black polka dots. This fun conversation piece can be worn alone or paired with another of Dodo’s charms for added impact. The brand’s rose gold and tsavorite four-leaf clover might also bring even more good luck. irs Dodo, Via del Babuino 27-28, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3601 0289, dodo.it * for map go to page 88

LUXURY GIFTS AT THE KING OF SANTA MARIA NOVELLA ITALIAN FASHION

the glamorous Via Condotti. Visit to sample a wonderful assortment of essences and colognes, such as the classic Santa Maria Novella fragrance said to have been created specifcally for Catherine de Medici, as well as scented soaps, pampering creams and organic herbal tinctures. We guarantee it is almost impossible to leave empty-handed. irs Ofcina Profumo Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, Via delle Carrozze 87,

00187 Rome, +39 06 678 0734, smnovella.it

* for map go to page 94 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 110

A recently opened store on Rome’s Via dei Condotti means Giorgio Armani continues his reign as the king of Italian fashion. The spacious store, decked out in the brand’s cool-toned signature interior style, is a perfect place to browse the spring/summer collection. The womenswear collection, Lights and Shadows, contains something to suit every woman’s taste, from modern, neutral pieces that ofer a chic workwear update to electric shades of fuchsia and violet and plenty of pretty foral prints and laser work that will be invaluable for those with a busy diary of summer events. irs Giorgio Armani,

Via dei Condotti 77, 00187 Rome, +39 06 699 1460, giorgioarmani.com * for map go to page 94

PHOTO: © PierO de grOSSi PHOTOgraPHer 2012

PHOTO: MariNO PreSTa

One of Italy’s most prestigious and historic beauty brands, Santa Maria Novella, has opened its second store in Rome. Founded in Florence over 400 years ago, Santa Maria Novella, one of the oldest pharmacies in the world, stocks everything from creams to candles. The new store can be found on Via delle Carozze, just of

N E W S | 53

DIESEL’S ROCK ‘N’ ROLL HIT

PHOTO: Glanluca MOrO

Inspired by the British music scene, Diesel’s latest collection has a rebellious attitude for spring/summer. Under the new direction of super-stylist Nicola Formichetti the brand has updated its look across all lines. The frst part of the collection focuses on every rock musician’s favourite colour, black, adding a contemporary sportswear

twist to key items such as the biker jacket and double layered sweatshirt. The line also introduces a new denim style for Diesel, the Sleenker, a versatile look which is the slimmest model available in the male collection. Our pick is the timeless parka coat with leather detailing, perfect for weathering spring showers. irs Diesel, Via del Corso 118, 00186 Rome, +39 06 678 3933, diesel.com * for map go to page 97

IOSSELLIANI’S NEW HOME IN ROME Famous Italian jewellery brand Iosselliani opened its frst store in Rome in 2005 and has since opened three other fagship stores in Tokyo, Osaka and New York. The Rome boutique has now moved to the elegant environs of Via del Corso. The

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 110

designers behind the brand are Roberta Paolucci and Paolo Giacomelli, who draw inspiration from classic and symbolic pieces, reinterpreting them in striking modern materials such as steel mesh and silver to create intricate hand-crafted designs. irs Iosselliani R-01-IOS,

Via del Leone 21, 00186 Rome, +39 06 4544 9987, iosselliani.com * for map go to page 102

54 | N E W S

SHOP THE WORLD

Using our wealth of insider knowledge, we have created a smartphone app to help you to plan your trips. The app gives information on 45 cities in 22 countries – thousands of stores are listed and located on maps, with full contact details and a description of what each store sells. Our maps guide you right to the store, step-by-step, from your current location and can also be downloaded for offline use. If you’re looking for something specific, or a particular brand, use our search option to locate it – you can even create your own itinerary. The app is available in Chinese, English and Russian, and includes a Tax Refund Calculator to tell you how much you’ll save on every purchase. There are also instructions on how to use Currency Choice, our service that allows you to pay in your home currency. globalblue.com

Download the Global Blue guide from the App Store or Play Store

FABULOUS FENDI When in Rome it really would be wrong not to visit Fendi. Founded in the city in 1925, Fendi is now one of Italy’s luxury labels and, under the guidance of artistic director Karl Lagerfeld, continues to push fashion boundaries. There is no better place to browse the spring/summer collection than in Fendi’s stunning palazzo fagship on Via del Corso. Described by Lagerfeld as inspired by ‘the world of informatics,’ this season’s line is light and full of colour: the organza is either vibrantly printed or paper thin and plain, creating a feather-light fnish, while the laser-cut leather pieces provide an example of the craftsmanship that Fendi is known for across the world. irs Fendi, Largo Goldoni, 00187 Rome, +39 06 334501, fendi.com * for map go to page 97

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From the ancient source of today’s fashionable gladiator look to the streets and gardens where Audrey Hepburn and Caravaggio once walked, Charlie Neidpath ofers a style insider’s guide to Rome

STYLE MILES PHOTOS: (FrOM leFT) STePHen DOig; CC BY-SA 3.0/lAluPA

The winding cobbled streets and sprawling boulevards of Rome are a treasure trove for visitors; every turn reveals an ancient landmark, a national monument or a cultural icon. It’s hard to traverse the city for more than a few minutes without stumbling upon something snap-worthy. But, while Rome’s myriad historical oferings are enthralling, there are facets of the city that are important style landmarks too. An alternative take on the city’s sights is to explore them with a sartorial eye and pay homage to the city’s place in fashion heritage. The Colosseum, of course, is one of the greatest monuments to ancient civilisation, but it is also the source of an enduring style trend: gladiator attire. Gladiatorial fashion touches such as leather fringing, fat sandals and leather skirts, seen in collections that range from Gucci to Marc Jacobs, all stem from clothing once worn in the Colosseum. 112 / 125

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Opposite: Via Marguta Lef: plaque on the Via Marguta house where Fellini once lived

PHOTO: DAVID ILIFF/CC-BY-SA 3.0

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Above (clockwise from top lef): the Colosseum; Marc Jacobs spring/summer 2014; the courtyard at Valentino’s headquarters

PHOTO: DAN & CORINA LECCA

PHOTO: © FRANCESCA PARISE

A fashion enthusiast’s frst port of call, after taking in the sumptuous Italian stores of Valentino, Gucci, Fendi and Bottega Veneta around Via dei Condotti, might well be the Valentino headquarters nearby, close to the Spanish Steps. It’s from here that the Valentino empire operates, today run by creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli. And it’s ftting that nearby, on the winding, tree-lined Via Veneto, is where the Valentino story began in the 1950s. At the time, the street was a magnet for the city’s A-listers and it was here that the young couturier Valentino Garavani met his life and

business partner, Giancarlo Giammetti – and the foundations of the Valentino label were laid. Today, Chiuri and Piccioli design the brand’s trademark whimsical gowns from the Rome address, rather than relocating to Paris – a mark of respect for the heritage of the house. The nearby Spanish Steps have also acted as the site of fashion shows by a range of Italian designers and each year host a summer collection of brands from the surrounding areas, with models taking over the imposing site. But venture further still and another fashion gem reveals itself. Tucked away on the Via Margutta lies one of the city’s most culturally signifcant collections of townhouses. It’s on this pretty street that both Truman Capote and Federico Fellini lived, and 51 Via Margutta is where Princess Ann (Audrey Hepburn) stayed the night with Joe Bradley (Gregory Peck) in Roman Holiday. Hepburn’s crisp shirts, fowing skirts and chic fats, designed by MGM costume wizard Edith Head, became associated with a particular kind of pristine Roman glamour. To see where these iconic movie moments were dreamed up, head south to the incredible Cinecittà Studios and

PHOTO: ROMAN HOLIDAY TRAILER IN PUBLIC DOMAIN

PHOTO: © CINECITTÀ STUDIOS

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walk in the footsteps of cinema’s legends. Long before Tom Ford turned Gucci into a byword for vampish after-dark looks, the house was synonymous with Roman chic, outftting Jackie Onassis in scarves and bags from its Rome headquarters and dressing principessas. Current designer Frida Giannini is a Roman native. She made the decision, after taking over the brand in 2006, to relocate the ofces from Florence to Rome to provide aesthetic inspiration for her team of designers,

Above (from top): Cinecità Studios; Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in the 1953 flm Roman Holiday

PHOTO: STEPHEN DOIG

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Exploring Rome with a sartorial eye pays homage to the city’s special place in fashion heritage

Above: view of the Villa Borghese gardens from the Softel hotel

and her collections for the house are infused with a sense of 50s Roman glamour. Through sharp shirting and fared skirts, opulent rococo baroque touches (where gold motifs echo the elaborate garland designs on many of Rome’s buildings) and smoky Italian siren dressing, she subtly imbues her pieces with Roman style season after season. Of course, it isn’t just fashion that has sought inspiration from the city. The sprawling, beautifully luscious Villa Borghese gardens have inspired Ingres and Balthus, and Caravaggio once lived and worked in what is now the Softel hotel nearby. From walking in the footsteps of giants like Caravaggio or taking in scenes that have changed the face of fashion, this alternative guide ofers some stylish treasures valentino.com, cinecittastudios.it, gucci.com, softel.com

giuseppe zanotti design

printemps-ĂŠtĂŠ 2014

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Rome’s ancient streets are home to a fourishing array of ultramodern interior design stores, writes Sally McIlhone

INSIDE STORY

Rome is one of the world’s most ancient cities, so it stands to reason that the Italian capital’s greatest cultural sights are those which are imbued with history. From the crumbling majesty of the Colosseum to the intricately carved spectacle of the Trevi Fountain, the ancient artefacts of the Italian capital draw crowds throughout the year. And when visitors aren’t drinking in the beauty of the statuary or transfxed by the gravitas of the Pantheon, they are investing in Rome’s long-standing fashion stalwarts. But in this city which owes so much to the past, a clutch of interior design stores is looking frmly to the future – and charming international visitors. The striking Piazza del Popolo, with its 115 / 126

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domed buildings and central Egyptian obelisk, couldn’t be more evocative of ancient times, yet a short walk away on the Passeggiata di Ripetta you’ll fnd Magazzini Associati, a modern design store displaying quirky, contemporary furniture and homeware items, hand-picked by owner Marianna Marini. Magazzini Associati is well-known among the city’s architects and interior designers, and the brand’s spokesperson Laura Gagliardi summarises the store’s unique and highly successful philosophy as based on ‘curiosity, passion and the desire to suggest unusual, strange things, which can’t be found elsewhere. Choosing companies, designers and craftsmen who haven’t been contaminated by the Lef: Serra boutique

PHOTO: BengT nyMAn CC-By-SA 2.0

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compulsion to produce in series, who often produce unique items and whose production respects the environment – this is our best quality.’ Selecting original items crafted by modern Italian brands, from Moroso sofas and Opinion Ciatti lighting to Paola C ceramics, is Magazzini Associati’s strength, and the label’s staf go to great lengths to discover the most innovative items on the market. ‘I always take part in the trade fairs of the sector, even the ones abroad,’ says Gagliardi. ‘I take time of to visit workshops and companies that, despite being centres of excellence, still aren’t very well known. This kind of work is very much appreciated by the architects we work with, because we manage to suggest new, functional items to them, at a fair price.’ To seek out items on the top of every Roman interior designer’s wishlist, we recommend a visit. A stone’s throw from the Colosseum, on Via Panisperna, you can fnd cuttingedge design store Atelier Monti – a haven of revolutionary homeware in the heart of the most ancient rione (neighbourhood) in Rome. The shop, which celebrated its 10th anniversary in March 2013, ofers customised interior design services as well as a wealth of unique objets d’art, furniture and lighting from brands including Danese Milano and Luceplan. Massimo Lucarini from Atelier Monti believes the store was a trailblazer and says that the ‘challenge’ of opening a contemporary

Rome’s blend of contemporary cool and a sense of the past is creating a new interior design landscape

Above (from top): the ancient interior of the Colosseum contrasts with the modern wares of many of Rome’s interior design stores; Magazzini Associati boutique

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design boutique in the centre of this historic city was clearly an inspiration to other interior décor afcionados. ‘When we opened our store we were the only reference point in this area. Now many have followed our path. The history of Rome in the last 40 years tells of many companies like ours that had a very deep impact on the interior design of Roman homes. Rome has one of the most important architectural universities in Europe, with very talented architects.’ The needs of the modern interior designer are also catered for at Atelier Monti. Above: Atelier Monti boutique

Rome’s wealth of experienced architects looking to add a modern slant to their work, coupled with the 21st-century penchant for all things novel and high-tech, has led to a boom in ultramodern homeware in the city but there is also an audience seeking a more eclectic selection of vintage-inspired interior décor pieces. Via Margutta, home to forward-thinking lighting specialist Artemide and graphic storage expert Lago, is also where you’ll fnd Serra, a store which sells everything from colourful Murano glassware by Venini

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Ultramodern homeware and vintage-inspired pieces are equally at home in Rome’s flourishing interior design stores

to more traditional dining services. Founded by Mario Serra in 1924, the boutique was once a supplier to Roman nobility and the royal house. Now run by husband-and-wife team Alessandro and Ornella Serra, the boutique continues to captivate customers with Meissen porcelain and Baccarat crystal. ‘The products and brands we select are always leaders in their particular feld,’ Ornella Serra explains. ‘We always try to mix timeless classics with modern, fresh designs.’ The label’s custommade products include bespoke marble mosaic tabletops that Ornella herself produces. ‘These pieces represent the essence of classic Italian history wrapped up in modern craftsmanship.’ Another craftsman who is updating classic designs is Alain Martin, whose store, simply named Alain, to the west of the city on Via del Pellegrino, ofers furniture designed between the 20s and the 80s, antiques and his own quirky handmade stools. ‘Interior design has always been a natural lifestyle for me. Nowadays it has become moda – fashion,’ he says. Melding contemporary cool with a sense of the past, Rome’s interior mavens are creating a new design landscape magazziniassociati.it, ateliermonti.it, serra-roma.it, alainrome.com Above (from lef): unique chairs are available at Alain; Alain boutique

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Above: Saddlers Union boutique

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MADE BY HAND

Connoisseurs of craftsmanship will appreciate Rome’s artisanal heritage brands. Stephen Doig presents a selection of the best

The environs of Rome’s Spanish Steps and Via Condotti, while steeped in history and romance, are today a haven for global luxury fashion brands. From the monolithic Christian Dior store that overlooks the steps to the sumptuous Louis Vuitton boutique, the biggest labels in the world have made these cobbled streets their home. The prominence of these world-class major names, however, helps to make fnding artisanal, handcrafted, labourintensive, custom-made pieces all the more exciting. Finding these gems is the fashion equivalent of trufe hunting. In today’s fastfashion world, under-the-radar artisan brands with a sense of heritage are the equivalent of gold dust and Rome, happily, has a rich treasure trove to ofer.

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Near the bustling streets around the Spanish Steps and Via Condotti, one can fnd ivy-draped Via Margutta, where Roman Holiday was flmed, tucked away from the main streets and lined with sumptuous Roman townhouses in shades of buttercup yellow, sepia and tangerine. It’s here that Saddlers Union, established in 1957, keeps a discreet workroom and emporium, with no signage or window displays. Saddlers Union was founded when the city’s flm stars made their way across the cobbles to seek out the brand’s expertly crafted leather pieces. Jackie Onassis made the distinctive Saddlers Union bucket bag an iconic style piece; Italian aristocrats such as Gianni Agnelli bought their custom-made travel bags here. When it comes to quiet, stealth luxury, no-one does it quite like Saddlers Union. Now located opposite the house where Federico Fellini used to live, Saddlers Union was given a new lease of life in 2009 when designer and tastemaker Micaela Calabresi Marconi and her businessman brother Paolo relaunched the slumbering brand,

Above (from top): Saddlers Union leather director’s chair and chocolate brown leather travel case

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which had closed in 2004. Marconi, who previously worked in PR for Giorgio Armani, had long been a devotee of Saddlers Union craftsmanship, and, on hearing it had closed, set out to revive this Roman icon. ‘My family used to be clients,’ says Marconi. ‘I found one of the founding artisans, who was living in the suburbs of Rome. He was making items out of his garage. I felt compelled to ask him, why don’t we [re]open Saddlers?’ The designer convinced the craftsman after he saw the store space. Each bag, belt and, new for the 21st century, the brand’s home collection, is crafted by hand using Italian leather, fnished and lined by hand and available in only the most discreet shapes and colours, with no logos or obvious fashion branding. Impeccable chocolate brown leather travel cases that look as though they could have been lifted from the luggage racks of the Orient Express (apart from the wheels ftted for modern convenience), leather director’s chairs and, of course, that iconic bucket bag in richest ostrich skin are all the result of intensive labour and generations of knowledge. The fnal fourish for luxury consumers? Customised elements such as a sumptuous fourish of initials, if they so desire. Rome’s respect for its heritage labels has led the city to establish the Associazione Negozi Above (both images): Calef boutique

Craft in Rome is not only alive but thriving – heritage brands invite visitors to step from the bustling modern city into its entrancing past

Storici di Eccellenza di Roma (Association of Historical Stores of Excellence in Rome), an organisation that seeks to preserve its old-world gems. One of its most sought-after members is Calef, a traditional master Italian shirt-maker founded in the late 19th century. Calef’s custom-made, handcrafted shirts for men are crafted in exquisite Egyptian cotton. The label sources its fabric from the same suppliers as Louis Vuitton and Charvet, and its focus is on artisanal craft and the importance of ft.

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S H O P | 79

The connoisseur of handcrafted excellence can also fnd peerless history and heritage in the rich surroundings of Cartoleria Pantheon, three tiny, quaint stores set around the cobbled streets around the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. In each of the stores, which retain their original dark wood interiors, the ancient crafts of book binding and paper making are alive and well. Founded in 1910, the brand creates hand-painted notebooks with delicate, beautiful patterns, sumptuously intricate hand-painted wrapping paper, writing accessories such as pens made from Murano glass, feather quills, blotters and wax seals, alongside â&#x20AC;&#x201C; something of a showpiece â&#x20AC;&#x201C; hand-painted paper music boxes that capture scenes of dancing maidens and violin-playing musicians. The efect is one of stepping into the past, but it is solid reality in the heart of bustling Rome. These brands are all keeping craft not only alive but thriving in the city saddlersunion.com, calef.net, negozistoricieccellenza.it, pantheon-roma.com Above (from top): Cartoleria Pantheon store; Cartoleria Pantheon gif celebrating the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 100th anniversary

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TABLE TALK rome’s fnest restaurants showcase traditional cuisine and local ingredients while also embracing culinary innovation. Verity Hogan explores a selection of the city’s diverse dining options

given rome’s ancient ruins and rich history, it is no surprise that the city’s cuisine is rooted in tradition. regional specialities make the most of local ingredients with a reliance on meat, fresh vegetables, butter and sharp pecorino cheese. Portions are often generous while favours are rich and authentic. Despite the prevalence of classic cuisine, the city plays host to a wide variety of restaurant types, ranging from checkedtablecloth pizzerias to high-end gourmet eateries. the most popular dining spots combine both aspects of rome’s personality, demonstrating respect for tradition but also pushing the boundaries with new preparation techniques and international ingredients. globalblue.com

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Pr imo a l Pigneto

High-quality ingredients are at the heart of Primo al Pignetoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dining concept. in this elegant yet informal space, all attention is focused on the cuisine created by Chef marco gallotta. the menu relies on dishes rooted in the region, although gallotta excels at combining traditional production methods and rustic favours with modern innovations. Seasonal ingredients are presented at their very best; typical deceptively simple dishes include salted codfsh on a bed of sautĂŠed caulifower and itrana olives and roasted duck accompanied by a sweet-andsour vegetable mix. Primo al Pigneto, Via del Pigneto 46, 00176 rome, +39 06 701 3827, primoalpigneto.it

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are refected in the restricted white, black and brown colour palette. Food is similarly stripped back, based on fresh, high-quality ingredients and low in fat. Met’s weekend brunch is worthy of note, ofering extensive sweet and savoury bufet options. Met, Piazzale di Ponte Milvio 34, 00191 rome, +39 06 3322 1237, met-roma.it

Met

PHOTO: GiuLiO riOTTa

PHOTO: LOrenzO MOnaceLLi

set in one of rome’s most stylish districts, Met is an efortlessly chic restaurant serving a menu of health-conscious Mediterranean cuisine. architect tata’ Gallo has created a décor in keeping with the restaurant’s location, defned by clean lines and minimal furnishings which

Osteria la GensOla

M acch e rOn i

Osteria la Gensola is a typical roman trattoria with delicious, fresh cuisine and an ambience that refects the relaxed atmosphere of the trastevere district where it is found. Osteria la Gensola’s Mediterranean dishes are based on fresh seasonal produce, sourced locally. Be sure to book ahead to enjoy dishes such as the catch of the day, which might be succulent grilled squid or spaghetti with sea urchin. Osteria la Gensola, Piazza della Gensola 15, 00153 rome, +39 06 581 6312, osterialagensola.it

named after one of italy’s most famous pasta products, macaroni, Maccheroni is a bastion of tradition. the restaurant is set in one of the city’s oldest areas and has an appropriately rustic, welcoming ambience. the dining room features simple wooden furnishings, tiled foors and plain walls while the menu is based around classic roman cuisine and includes a variety of regional specialities. Maccheroni, Piazza delle coppelle 44, 00186 rome, +39 06 6830 7895, ristorantemaccheroni.com

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Guide

ILLUSTRATION: LYNDON HAYES

Navigating an unfamiliar city is never easy. Global Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping maps, helping you fnd your way around Rome with helpful hints and insider information about what to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check out globalblue.com/rome or pick up one of our bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.

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● ● ● ● ● ● ●

ONT ANE

E-GO ● ROSATO ● RUCOLINE ●

HERVÉ LÉGER DODO P.50 RIENZI COMPAGNIA ITALIANA VOGUE SHOP BARRILÀ BOUTIQUE TORY BURCH NOBEL FELTRINELLI MANNI MATASSI JO MALONE DE NICOLA D'AVOSSA GIOIELLI SAVE THE QUEEN!

EI M O N

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

IN ITÀ D

GIA

LE F

T TA

ELL A TR

DEL

V I A M A R G U T TA

DI S

V IA

V IA L E D

ROY ROGERS ●

VIA M A RGU

GIOVANNI RASPINI ●

MARIO LUCCHESE ● MALÌPARMI ● TOUCH AND GO ● FABRIZIO BULCKAEN ● MOSCHINO ● LEO PIZZO ●

● BOGGI ● CHOPARD

FRATELLI PETOCCHI ●

● 100% CAPRI ● DE GRISOGONO

VIA DEL BABUINO

OTTICA SPEZIA ● CESARI ● GENTE ●

CESARE LAMPRONTI ● LA TESSITURA D’ARTE ● PUNTO PELLE ● RIENZI ● VI A FILATELIA ● L AU R IN CESARE LAMPRONTI ● A FABRIANO ● VIA DEL BABUINO 167 ● PETIT BATEAU ●

VIA

VIA DEL BABUINO

Via del Babuino

DI S

Piazza Di Spagna

Featured In This Issue

IAN

ELL

ROBERTOC OIN . C OM

IPA NE M A C OL L E C T I ON

R O B E R T O C O I N B O U T I Q U E V I A V I T T O R I A 9, R O M A - T E L . 0 6 3 2 6 5 2 4 3 9

90 | G U I D E

Piazza di Spagna & Via Bocca di Leone VIA VIT TO RIA

TÀ D E I M O N

E B A S T I A N E L LO

Piazza Di Spagna

LL A TRINI

VIA DI SA N S

● VERSA CE P.46

VIALE DE

VIA BEL SIA NA VIA BEL SIA NA

WP STORE ●

FRETTE ●

VIA DEL LE CA

ESCADA ●

LORIBLU ●

● CARNEVALI SERGIO ● AMINA RUBINACCI ROSSI ● ● CORRADINI PURA LOPEZ ● DOLCE & ● LA BARBERA GABBANA ● ● ZINTALA ● GIORGIA R EFRATI ● CASADEI ● EMILIO PUCCI ●

● BLU GIRL

DI CASTRO ●

MENICHINI ●

VIA DEL LA CRO

RR OZ ZE

● IL PESCIOLINO ROSSO

UIN

LA PERLA ●

● FLEUR LUXURY LIVING ● ANITA ROMANI

BAB

SPAZIO MANASSEI GIOIELLI ● ALBERT MOLAYEM ●

DEL

SAINT LAURENT ●

VIA DEL LE CA

VIA ALI BER T

VIA

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

VIA DEL LA CRO

VIA VIT TO RIA

RR OZ ZE

LONGCHAMP ●

● CHRISTOFLE

VIA CO ND OT TI

DIOR ● CAMPER ● LOEWE ● SEPHORA ●

ALBERTO GUARDIANI ● SERMONETA ● VIA BORGOGNONA

● CHIURATO MICHELE MANDARINA DUCK ● ● EDITH B METTIMI GIÙ ● ● HOSS INTROPIA ILLY SHOP ● ● PINEIDER 59/A ● RED & BLUE ● ARCHIMEDE SEGUSO ● ● TAMMARO CASTELLO D’AURIA ●

VIA

O BARBARA UIN GREGORI ● AB LB RIGADRITTO ● DE ALESSANDRELLI ● VIA NIA & CO ● LESLEY ● ORTIGIA ● THE VERDE ● TEA ROSE ● SAMSONITE ● BERTOLETTI ● LADIA ● DE CARLIS BORBONESE ● ROBERTO COIN ●

OPAGAN DA

IA N

CEL

VIA DI PR

GOR

● OTTICA BILECI ● JACKSON

GABRIEL STORE ● VI A DI

CA PO LE

CA SE

VIA

● PINKO ● PELLETTERIA FLACCO ● EDISON BATA ● ● RALPH VICTORY ● ● VICTORY I-D ● ● KAMINSKY ROSA FISH ● ● LA BOTTEGA DI ELI ● CARPISA PC X TE ●

DUE

IO RI

DEI

IO DE ’F

CEL

Non-Global Blue Retailer

● ULISSE GALLERY

GR E

DUE

VI A M AR

LEO NE

● UMBERTO VISGA ANTIQUARIO ● NIA ● LAURA ZOFFOLI

VIA BOC CA DI

● CAMPOMARZIO70 ● FLEUR TEMPORARY

VIA BELSIANA

● LUNARIA ● NECK & NECK ● SCAPA OF SCOTLAND ● MORO & OGNISSANTI ● FALIERO SARTI ● DE CARLIS ● DAL CO ● ONLY SKIN

● V VITTORIA ● GREGG ● BRT ROME

VIA VITTORIA

RENARD ●

V IA

D EI

ROBERTO BIAGINI ● JODIEL ● TIFERET ● ● IL BACO DA SETA ● ONLY HEARTS ● ALFONSI GIOIELLI

VIA DEL CORSO

Global Blue Retailer

Via dei Due Macelli

VIA DEI GRECI

VIA DELLA CROCE

IA N

VIA FRAT TINA

VIA VITTORIA

GO R

● BRUNO CALO ● IT STYLE ● PIER CARANTI

ALEXANDER ●

Piazza Mignanelli

VIA F RATT INA

Via Vittoria

GRE

DI CORI ● ROSSATI ●

IST

BLUGIRL LITHOS EMPORIO SAN FIRENZE BOTTEGA DELL’ARGENTO CESARE PACIOTTI

V IA

● ● ● ● ●

● ACQUA DI PARMA ● IWC ● CARPISA ● NESPRESSO ● BLUNAUTA

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● TINA ● MARNI ● WHO'S WHO ●

P.48

VIA BORGOGNONA

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●

● FURLA

SANTONI ● MISSONI ●

Featured In This Issue

V I A CO N D OT T I , 8 0 00187 ROMA TEL: +39 06 6788944 M O N D AY - S A T U R D AY 1 0 A M - 7 P M S H O P AT T E S T O N I . C O M

G U I D E | 93

Federico Buccellati

Federico Buccellati has achieved international acclaim for its timelessly elegant designs and use of high quality italian craftsmanship. its pieces, crafted from gold and silver, take design inspiration from the renaissance period, and feature exquisite detailing, engraving and highly precious stones. the range is vast; earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings are ofered alongside cuf links, pens and money clips. Federico Buccellati, Via dei condotti 31, 00187 rome, +39 06 679 0329, federicobuccellati.it * for map go to page 94

Via Belsiana, Via Mario de’ Fiori & Via del Gambero VIA DEL

L'ANELLERIA ●

● LUIGI BORRELLI ● ZOPPIA ● ILEANA DELLA CORTE

VIA

DEL LA CRO CE ● COSE ● TIZIANA MODIANO

● GIOIELLI DI COCO’ VIA DEL LE CAR

ROZ ZE

● GREMESE

● CHOSES

● GIOIELLERIA MARONI

PANCRISIA ● LAURA BIAGIOTTI ●

’FI OR I

VI A BE LS IA NA

● UNDUETRE

VI A MA RI O DE

VIA DE L CO RS

VIA DEL LA CRO ● I CARTAI CE ● IL LACCIO ● FLORENCE MOON ● C.U.C.I.N.A. ● WOLFORD ● MANUELE ZOO ● MARTINO MIDALI

● FABRIS

BORGHINI ● BELSIANA 91 ● BORGHINI ●

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

CASTIELLO ●

VIA BORGOGNONA

Piazza Mignanelli

MATTIOLO ●

● CHIARA BLU

Non-Global Blue Retailer

OPAG AN

MADE IN ITALY ●

VIA D EL G A M

WATCH POINT ● VIA DELLA VITE

CEL

Global Blue Retailer

● AVIREX

● KLIP

VALAMBERT ● FRANCESCHINI ●

VIA FRAT TINA

● VIVANTI

VI A DI PR

PITRAN ●

DUE

BERO

● COMPAGNIA ITALIANA

D EI

VIA F RATT INA

ATOS LOMBARDINI ●

TI IA N

VI A BE LS IA NA

GOR

GRE

IMPERATORE DI CAPRI ●

BADURA ●

VIA

VIA DE L CO RS

VIA

● FGF STORE

VIA BORGOGNONA

’FI OR I

RUCOLINE ● HAVAIANAS ●

VI A MA RI O DE

● DOMUS CALZATURE

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

MALO ● BEAUTY POINT ●

● GHERARDINI

Piazza Di Spagna

● BRACCIALINI

VIA CO ND OT TI

● BOZART

● BL GIOIELLI ● CAMEO CENTER

● MOSTROLEO ● TRONCONI

MARCHIONNI GIOIELLI ● VINTAGE ● ALBERTA FERRETTI ● NIKI NIKA ●

S E B A S T I A N E L LO

● MALO ACCESSORI NIA OUTLET ●

VIA DI SA N

● CORNER ● MONTBLANC ● JAJA CAMICERIA

LL A TRINI

VI A BE LS IA NA

●

● LA VIE VOLEUSE

HENRY BEGUELIN ●

● BARTON'S

UIN

ORAFO ●

VIA ALI BER T

BAB

BARTON'S ●

● LA MERCERIA ● WORLD ORIGINAL WATCH

TA D E L M O N

VIALE DE

VIA VIT TOR

BABY PRATESI ●

94 | G U I D E

Via Condotti, Via Frattina & Via della Croce

MALLONI ●

XANDRINE ● MODA UOMO ●

IORI

POMPI ●

VIA MAR IO DE’F

FIORENTINO ● BOTTEGA QUATTRO ● OTTICA CALÒ ● VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

SPIMAR ●

VERTECCHI ●

VASARI ● RUE DE LA CROIX ● LA COQUETTERIE ●

STOP HERE ●

VIA BEL SIA NA

● FIORENTINO

MONCLER ● PRADA UOMO ●

PRADA DONNA ●

CARTIER ●

DAMIANI ● A. TESTONI ● IORI

P.50 GIORGIO ARMANI ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● MONTBLANC ● ELEUTERI ● JIMMY CHOO ● HERMÈS ●

VIA MAR IO DE’F

● SCOOTERPLUS ● MARVILLE ● MALIA ● CAESAR

Pia zz a Di Sp ag na

VIA

DEI

DUE

CEL

● SWAROVSKI PIQUARDO ● ● ANGELO DI NEPI VIVIANTI ● ● GEOX ● CLASS BOSS STORE ● ● DIOR ● NERO GIARDINI MINOU ● ● BRIGHENTI ● ELENA MIRÒ ● GUCCI ● DOPPELGANGER ● UNO DE 50 ● BULGARI P.30 ● CAGE ELISABETTA FRANCHI BY CELINE B ● PROFUMERIA CASTELLI ● ● CAMICISSIMA ● ANGELETTI

VIA BORGOGNONA

ALVIERO MARTINI ● ● CELINE FREYWILLE ● ● BRIONI ASH ● ● CASTELLI PURE ● ● SWATCH BRANDY & MALLVILLE ● ● LORO PIANA MICARELLI ● ● STUART WEITZMAN GIUDI ● ● HAUSMANN & CO CHOPIN ● FEDERICO PINKO ● P.93 ● BUCCELLATI MATI ● ● ALBERTA FERRETTI FABIO D ● ● MIU MIU GUESS ●

CARLO PAZOLINI ● ● BALLY LIST ● WOLFORD ● ● OMEGA L'OCCITANE ● BRUNO MAGLI ● ● SWAROVSKI PANDORA ● DANIELLE ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

VIA BEL SIA NA

IORI ● GALASSIA VIA MAR IO DE’F PERSONA ● ● SISTE’S FORNARI E FORNARI ● ROBERTO ● BOTTICELLI ● LOUIS VUITTON P.49 MARELLA ● ● CAMPANILE ANDREA FABIANI ● ● VALENTINO ● MARTINI A.G. SPALDING & BROS ● ● MAX MARA BURCHI & DE SANCTIS ● ● GRACE K ● MAX MARA ● ARMANI JUNIOR GALLO ● ● STEFANEL FAUSTO SANTINI ● ● WINDSOR CESARE PACIOTTI ● ● PENNY BLACK ● FALCONERI VIA BOCCA DI LEONE ● OPTISSIMO ● PAL ZILERI ● TRU TRUSSARDI ● PATRIZIA PEPE ● MORESCHI ● FREDDY ● ARGENTARIUS ● CASTELLI ● REBECCA ● MANILA GRACE ● EFRATI ● CALZEDONIA ● FLAVIO CASTELLANI ● KIEHL’S ● GENTE

TOD’S ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● TRUSSARDI ● MARCELLO ● FRANCESCO ROGANI ● MAX & CO ● VILEBREQUIN ●

VIA BEL SIA NA

FURLA ●

CHURCH’S ●

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● BULGARI ● BATTISTONI ● BURBERRY ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ●

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

●B ● MIRA BEAUTY POINT ● LUXURY ● VENCHI

● SINERGY ● GOOD QUEEN ● ANDREUCCI ● RUE DE LA CROIX

VIA BEL SIA NA

● COSE

● FIORENTINO ● ABITART

● FLIRT ● CLIO

VIA DE L CO RS

HARRISON ● FLORENCE OF MOON ● CAMICISSIMA ● GREISY ● MR F VIVIANTI ● BOTTOM DOWN ● MADA ●

Piazza Mignanelli VIA DE L CO RS

● PATRIZIA ● RUBY COMPTOIR ● DES COTONNIERS ● LUCIANO PADOVAN ● LUISA VENIER ● YOUPARFUM.COM ● COMANDINI

IL BISONTE ● RENÉ CAOVILLA ● BALENCIAGA ●

GUCCI ● MORRIS ● LORENZO CARMIGNANI ● SPORTMAX ● STELLA MCCARTNEY ● FRATELLI P.130 ROSSETTI ● MARINA RINALDI ●

’ FIO RI

VI A MA RIO DE’

FIO RI

● MONNA LISA ROBERTO ● CAVALLI ● BRIGHENTI

● IRO ● BLUMARINE ● LES COPAINS

OFFICINA PROFUMO FARMACEUTICA DI SANTA MARIA ● NOVELLA P.50

● LA PEONIA

● MARISA PADOVAN

● IL PORTONE

LA ZUCCA ● STREGATA ● ANDREA MORELLI ● EBANO E AVORIO

MARIO GALLO ● CALVO

● ZENDRINI FAUSTO ● PUGLISI

EDDY ● MONETTI

BRUNELLO ● CUCINELLI

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

COLOMB O ● TARTUFI & FRIENDS ●

LADURÉ E ●

VIA BEL SIA NA

PEUTEREY ● NIKI NIKA ●

VIA MA RIO DE

ALCOZER ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● TIE SHOP ● MIDALI ● MARTINO MIDALI ●

I CINQUE ● ROSMARIE CONFETTI ● DEHA ●

QUETZALCOATL CHOCOLATIER ●

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

VIA BEL SIA NA

LARA ● ETHIC OUTLET ● ANTONIO MENEGHETTI ● ANTONIO MENEGHETTI ● ATTILIO RONCACCIA SARTORIA ●

LILIA LEONI ● GIOCATTOLI ●

Featured In This Issue

SHOP Recommendation

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Retailer

VIA FRAT TINA

VIA CO ND OT TI

VIA BORGOGNONA

RR OZ ZE

VI A DE LL E CA

RR OZ ZE

VI A DE LL E CA

Via Borgognona

Via delle Carrozze

VIA CO ND OT TI

VI A D EL L A CRO

RR OZ ZE VIA DE LL E CA

VIA FRATTIN A

VI A F R ATT INA

OC E

VI A DE LL A CR

OC E

VI A DE LL A CR

G U I D E | 97

Via del Corso Area Via del Corso (North)

Via del Corso (Central)

Piazza Del Popolo

BRANDY & MELVILLE ●

● BORSALINO ● ZEISS HOUSE

RO TIT E

Piazza del Parlamento

PRIMA DONNA ●

Piazza di San Silvestro

VIA SAN CL

AU DIA

● ZARA

VIA DELLA CROCE

SHOP Recommendation

Galleria Alberto Sordi

VIA DI SANTA MARIA IN VIA

Piazza Colonna

● NANNINI MASSIMO DUTTI ● ● BRACCIALINI CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● ● IMAGINARIUM ● EDONE’ BOGGI ● ● BOGGI

L'I M P

RES

SABABA ●

DEL

DI R VIA

VIA

FRETTE ●

VIA VITTORIA

Non-Global Blue Retailer

G AM BE

Global Blue Retailer

V I A DE L

ISHOP ●

VIT E

VIA DELL E CO NV ER

VIA DEL PARLAMENTO

● SOLARIS ● GAUDÌ

● TIM ● MONDO WIND ● MARELLA ● INTIMISSIMI ● EFFETTI ● MARC O’POLO ● ET MOI ● ATHLETES WORLD ● LA 3 STORE ● NAU ● CHOPIN ● DAVID SADDLER

VIA DE LLA

BE TWEEN ●

GAP ●

Largo dei Lombardi

V I A D I S A N G I ACO M O

● LACOSTE ● CATENELLA ● PEPE JEANS ● CAMICIA CAFFE ● MANILA GRACE ● KEY ● LU ● BERNABEI ● SIMONA ● L’OCCITANE ● DA VINCI ● FRANCESCHINI

● DISNEY ● GRILLI

COCCINELLE ●

REDFORD ●

INTIMISSIMI ●

● ELISABETTA FRANCHI ● PERLA

NON

● HOUR PASSION ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ● CALZEDONIA ● MANGO ● SWATCH ● LE GROUPE ● STELLA Z ● ENERGIE / MISS SIXTY

VI A IN LU CI N A

● SISLEY ● VANS

VIA BELSIANA

ADIDAS ●

VIA DI GESU E MARIA

N D OT T

● ESOTICA ● YAMAMAY ● OTTICA EFRATI ● ALDO ● JAKED

LA RINASCENTE ●

IC I

V IA C O

● SWAROVSKI ● YAMAMAY ● FALCONERI ● STROILI ORO ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● NARA CAMICIE ● KIKO A

VI A F R ATTINA

VIA DEL CORSO

TEF

● LIU JO

● LUCCHESI ● TEZENIS ● G.D.V. ● MARC O’POLO ● COLONNA ● LUISA SPAGNOLI

VIA DEL CORSO

PON

NIKE ●

VIA DEL CORSO

DEI

VODAFONE ● 7 CAMICIE ● SISLEY ● HAMILTON ● CORNER ● CARPISA ● GREISY ● HAUSMANN & CO ● ACCESSORIZE ● PUMA ●

VIA DEI GRECI

LEVI’S ● V IA

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

UIN

TIMBERLAND ● PIAZZA ITALIA ● MAC ● CASUCCIO & SCALERA ● SEPHORA ●

VIA DELLE CARROZZE

VIA BOR GOG

N O VA

VIA DEL CORSO

FLORENCE ● IO C A

ELLA

BOTTEGA VERDE ANTHEA 7 CAMICIE DOMINIQUE LUSH 7 CAMICIE REFRIGIWEAR MURPHY & NYE FULLSTYLE GAZELLE P.98 MILLEFIORI DIVA BERNABEI TATIÉ SUBDUED TRIUMPH FOOT LOCKER PULL LOVE MARCO

● LAB SHOES

DADADA ●

N TO N

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

V IA

IPE

T TA

● WOW!

RED FELTRINELLI ● NUVOLARI ● OTTICA SOLE ●

V IA A

FENDI ● P.54

FOSSIL ● DESIGUAL ●

LLI

VIA

VIA DEL CORSO

H&M ● VA N TA G G

● STEFANO RICCI

VIA DEL LE FON TAN

DEL

● ORIGINAL MARINES

MR BOOTS ●

V IA

CALZEDONIA DECCIO CARLO FORNARINA GOLDEN POINT ASOLE E BOTTONI TALLY WEIJL DIESEL P.53 GUESS

● TWIN-SET ● ZARA ● RIENZI

H&M ●

VIA DEL CORSO

BERNABEI ● KINZLY ● LU ● RE MISHELLE ● DA PIETRO ● DAVID HAMILTON ● KELOKURA ●

VIA

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

VIA BELSIANA

NCI EO

● ALFIERI

VIA DELL ' OCA

VIA DEL CORSO

GEOX ● CAMPER ●

Featured In This Issue

98 | G U I D E

Via del Corso (South)

VIA DELLE MURATT E

V I A DEL CAR

VIA MAR CO MING HETT

AVITA

CELIO ●

VIC OLO SCI

AR RA

● OMAI NOW OR NEVER V IA D

EL L' U

M ILTÀ VIA DI SAN M A R CELLO

VIA DEL COL

VIA DEL CORSO

LEG IO ROM A

GUTTERIDGE ● MIRIADE ● YAMAMAY ●

VIA DEL CORSO

IN AT

VIA LATA

● ETY ● OTTICA CANOVAI

VI A SS. A P O STO LI

● LA GARDENIA ● SMASH LAB ● BLTD ● SAXON’S

VICOLO DORIA

STEFANEL ●

VIA DE L PLE BIS CIT

VIA DEL CORSO

SCHEGGE ●

PIAZZA DEI SA N TISSIMI APOSTOLI

● HAMMERSMITH

● OUTLET VICOLO DEL PIO M B O

● TATIE ● TEBE ● LEVIATAN ● SALOMÈ ● LE GROUP ● PERONI

PHOTO: ENRICO SAMARELLI

Gazelle With more than 25 years of experience, Gazelle has become one of Rome’s most popular leather retailers. The store only stocks items produced by trusted artisanal companies based in Italy. Quality is guaranteed, while the range of styles on ofer strikes the perfect balance between timeless elegance and current trends. Gazelle, Via del Corso 30, 00186 Rome, +39 06 361 4194, gazellepelle.com * for map go to page 97

RIenzI Rienzi plays host to a highly sought-after collection of clothing for both men and women. The store has been a fxture in Rome for the past 20 years and has built its reputation on stocking only the highest quality items. expect to fnd an array of tempting items in-store with the store’s specialities, cashmere and linen pieces, taking pride of place. Rienzi, Via del Corso 136, 00186 Rome, +39 06 679 6518

● ALCOTT ● CLASS ● RIENZI

VIA CES AR E BATTI

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

CHI MAS ERGA V IA B

VI A DÈ

BU R RÒ

VATURI ● OTHERS ● TIBER ● BARONE ● C TE

VIA DI SANTA MARIA IN VIA

OBJ ●

PI ET RA

VIA DI SANTA MARIA IN VIA

VI A DI

FLORSHEIM ● ● OYSHO PINKO ● TECH IT EASY ● ● C’ART TRU TRUSSARDI ● OTTICA F. LA ● BARBERA PIQUADRO ● GUESS BY ● MARCIANO ● THE BRIDGE ● ZARA

MOOD ● ROBERTO ANTICOLI ● GARDINO ● FELLINI ●

Galleria Alberto Sordi

VIA DEL CORSO

TIM ● X CORSI ● FIFTY FIFTY ●

LA FELTRINELLI ●

Piazza Colonna

STI

Piazza Venezia

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

SHOP Recommendation

100 | G U I D E

Via del Tritone Area

R AT LE F

DEL REA

ND T 'A

V IA D EL

● G-STAR

LA PA N ET TE

● OREGON SCIENTIFIC

RI A

● MARLBORO CLASSICS

● STONEFLY

● IL PANTALONE

● MUJI

SHOP Recommendation

● SAXON'S

One of the oldest stores to be found on Via del Tritone, Tritone Furs ofers stylish, lightweight furs and leathers of the very highest quality. in the brand’s workshops, expertly trained artisans create jackets with a timeless sense of style from a range of pelts, including sable, lynx, chinchilla, mink and fox. Tritone Furs, Via del Tritone 47-48, 00187 rome, +39 06 678 5886, tritonefurs.it

Non-Global Blue Retailer

VIA DEL TRITO NE

● MULIERE PROFUMERIE

VIA POL I

VIA DI SANTA MARIA IN VIA

O R TA

● FASHION SHOES

VI A

D EL M

● CAMPO MARZIO

LARGO CHIGI

POL

Piazza di San Claudio

DI CORI ●

● DE LILLO

VIA V I A D E L P OZ Z E T

V IA

A RES L’I M P

● GERARD

MR MUZIO ● TRITONE FURS ●

DEL

O RI

● BEDETTI

FUSARO ● VODAFONE ● B&H ● ARISTOCRAT ● TIM ● THE GALLERY ● LE GROUP ● ALTARIVA ●

V IA

IO DÈ FI

San Silvestro

TriTOne FurS

Global Blue Retailer

● MERCEDES BENZ ● BRIC’S Piazza di

PELLICCE CANALI ●

● + VISTA ● TRIS GEMME E ● DIAMANTI

● SETTIMIO MIELI

VIA DEL CORSO

Galleria Alberto Sordi

A ME RC ED

LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

CL AU DIO

VI A DE LL

BEAUTY POINT ●

THE NORTH VISION ● FACE OPTIKA ●

VI A D EI S A N

VI TE

VI A M AR

TIT E

● NERO GIARDINI MARCHETTI PERLA ● ● CARHARTT CALZEDONIA ●

VIA DEL LE CO NV ER

● UNO PIÚ

Piazza Colonna

TECH IT EASY ● SUPERDRY ● MARLBORO CLASSICS ● NAPAPIJIRI ●

Piazza del Parlamento

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA DEL PARLAMENTO

3 STORE ● TIMBERLAND ●

V I A I N LU CI N A

VI A DE LL A

VIA DI PRO PAGA NDA

Piazza di San Silvestro, Via delle Convertite, Via di San Claudio & Via del Tritone

S H O P | 101

VI A MO E

I ISP ES FR A NC

TI VI ER IS DE

CC H EL VI A ZU

VIA

TT UA RO FO A

VIA RAS ELL

AN NT

AlTA MOdA FurS epitomising the classic elegance that defnes italian style, every piece stocked at Alta Moda Furs is infused with a touch of exclusivity. every item is made in italy, ensuring a high level of quality craftsmanship throughout the range, while the styles on ofer have a timeless sensibility. The colour palette is muted and wearable in every season, ranging from soft mink to plum, but if nothing in store catches your eye, take advantage of the customising service to have a coat made to your exact specifcation.

Metro

Featured In This Issue

ILI

Alta Moda Furs, Piazza Barberini 13, 00187 rome, +39 06 3534 8266, altamodafurs.com

A D A TO

V IA B A R

VIA RAS ELL

N IC O L

I SA N

G A LL I N A C C I O

V IA D

O DEL

P.49 BRIONI ●

●

VENE

FURS

RINI BA R B E E VI R N A DI T A T N O F ar be ri ni P ia zz a B

B AN

● SANDRO FERRONE

● VALLI

● PINOCCHIO

ACCI O

L BO CC

V I CO L

M O DA

BLUE SAND ● CLIÒ ● A I N GREISY ● S T STARGAME ● DELSEY ● GATTEGNA ●

V I A D E G L I AV I G N O N E SI

VI A DE

● CASUCCIO & SCALERA

● R.BAZZOCCHI

VIA

VIA RAS ELL

JOELA ● NE

MICHAEL F ● SEPHORA ●

EL ● OVS INDUSTRY

CIO

BENETTON ●

AC CLASS ●

CLARKS ● SOUVENIR SHOP ● JANNY ● BRAND ● MISS ROBERTA ● ESTHER ●

EM AR

T O R IO

I DU IN

A LTA

VIA DEL TRITO NE

VIA

A IC

V IA V IT

VIA

LE CAS E

L IS

Z IO

IC A

IA N

R IF

VIA

LLA

V IA

VIA DI CAP O

LE N TI

B E R IN I

102 | G U I D E

EtiquEta NEgra PHOTO: GIOVANNIANDREAPANEBIANCO.IT

taking sartorial inspiration from the worlds of motor racing and equestrianism, and also heavily infuenced by the typically elegant italian sense of style, Etiqueta Negra is one of the country’s most distinctive fashion brands. the label is known for its originality, universally high quality and meticulous attention to detail, while motifs from polo and vintage motorsports appear throughout. Laidback mens and womenswear pieces are ofered alongside a capsule collection named in honour of legendary racing driver tazio Nuvolari.

Etiqueta Negra, Piazza del Parlamento 38-39, 00186 rome, +39 06 683 3049, etiquetanegra.eu

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

CAM

VIA DE

L L A LU

NO AM

L DIVI

LO D E

VIA

V ICO

VIA DE LLA

ZIO

MP CA

VIA

V IA

DEL

L'I M P

RES

S S IO

LA EL AD

ALE ADD LA M DEL V IA

● BREIL

VIA DEL CORSO

SHOP Recommendation

LOUIS VUITTON ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer

● PASQUALE BRUNI

Global Blue Retailer

● CARSHOE

R IO

BURBERRY ●

IC A

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina ● BOTTEGA VENETA

CRUCIANI E BELLA ●

I DE

VIT E

VIA DELLA ME RC ED

● BONPOINT ● SPADA ● SAINT LAURENT

F F IC

GIOIELLERIA CRISTIANA ●

VIA DEL CORSO

LI U

OBOR ●

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ●

VIA ME TAS TAS

D EG

VIA FRATTIN A

POMELLATO ●

● CAMPO MARZIO BANCHETTI ● ● VITTORIO BAGAGLI JUST DESIGN ● ● SCOTIA TEMPORARY OUTLET NEGRI ● ● CAMPO MARZIO 9 PAS DE ROUGE ● CAPUA CASHMERE ● ● SCOTIA ● LEGHILA CALZATURE CAMPO MARZIO ● ● INGLOT GOLF & GOLF ● ● PAUL TAYLOR SUPERCASA ● ● CENTODIECI TEBRO ● ● ALAIN PAINE V I A D EI P R E FE T TI ● IL CAMICIAIO VI A IN LU CIN A ETIQUETA NEGRA ● BECCACECE ● ●O CRU T T IC GINTEL ● C IA N A AL P I● EMPRESA ● ARL AME N TO ● FG ALB ERT ELL Piazza del I MONOCLE ● Parlamento ● BUFFETTI ● ARENA TIE SHOP ● ● CAMPO MARZIO 70 MODARI ● ● EMPRESA PETIT BATEAU ● ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● BORSALINO HERMÈS ● ● OFFICINA SLOWEAR ● MIGLIORANZA DAVIDE CENCI ● ● STURNI V IA

VIA DEL GAMBERO

I A G IO

I N IK

NON A

IA NA

AN B

VIA BOR GOG

●N IK

VI A BE LS

ORE

DI P

VICO LO DI S

ALL

ALBERTO AMIDEI ● MUSA ●

VIA

R DA ACO

P.53

OKS BRO THE FR A RS ● NK L O● DEL LEO NE ● S R-01-IO LIANI IOSSEL V IA

VIA DEL CORSO

V IA

TIN O BRO

CLEMEN

VIA DEL

INO

Via di Campo Marzio & Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

Featured In This Issue

104 | G U I D E

Via Vittorio Veneto Area Via Vittorio Veneto & Via Emilia

● TRUCCHI

GLOVES ●

AN CI

VERSACE ●

CASATO GIOIELLI ●

● ARSENIO

V IA

● CARRY ON

S IC

IL IA

● GOLD SKIN

EXCELSIOR GALLERY ●

IT T

● DE PASCALIS

GALIZIA ●

HELENE PROFUMERIA ●

● CASUCCIO & SCALERA

ZILLI ●

ELIZABETH ●

TA P

ALBERTINA ●

DEG

CHE

LAZ

SA R

MAR

V IA

● ZILLI ZILLI ● L’OROLOGERIA DI VIA VENETO ● CAVIGLIA ● ● DE SIMONE TARASCIO JAEGERLE COULTRE ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

GIOIELLERIA CAPUANO ● LUCIANO PADOVAN ● D IA

RAPHAEL ●

BAR

LO M

VIA

NIMA & RAY ●

V IA

ANDREW'S TIES ●

E M IL

RINALDI ●

● BRIONI

V IA

BON

CO M

PA G

V IA AU R OR A

V IA

LU D

O V IS

LU D

O V IS

V IA CAD

ORE

De Pascalis One of italy’s most historic jewellery companies, De Pascalis still creates the majority of its pieces by hand in its own workshop. Jewellery pieces incorporate a wide range of gemstones while the boutique is also home to a selection of timepieces by some of the world’s most prestigious brands;

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

pieces by Rolex, Tag Heuer, Baume & Mercier, Gucci and Jaeger-lecoultre all are available. Be sure to have any repairs carried out at the on-site workshop – the company’s technicians are widely acclaimed. De Pascalis, Via Vittorio Veneto 187, 00187 Rome, +39 06 482 1908, luigidepascalis.com

SHOP Recommendation

SAVETHEQUEEN.COM

106 | G U I D E

Pantheon & Navona Area Via della Maddalena, Piazza Capranica, Via degli Orfani, Via della Minerva, Salita de’ Crescenzi & Piazza della Rotonda

Via del Governo Vecchio H E M IL

D A IN INE LF PH E E D ● JOS ●

CC VE

CH A

DE A

SA VE

ACE

E EL

I●A AL RI ID E ● M ELL HIO E ● ● O I CC I C 3 GI VE I- N O 9 E ● O B I C N .G N V R RIA CI . DA ● LE VE E L NC E L A GO TR CA L A LL L’A E OD & LO UM ICA NA CO OF UT A ● VI LU R P CE LL NA A E CI R M OV F I FA A N F I O AR M TA N SA DI

L KO

EA TR

●

NI FA

CC H

E L L E VA

V. D

O LO D

IO EM AN

A VIA DE LLA MIN ERV

VIA DELLA ROTONDA

● REPLAY

● D RIENZO

STRATEGIC ● BUSINESS UNIT

PANTHEON

INA RIO

● A. CENCI ● CASALI ● GIOREN MENTA ● GLOVES ● KLK STEREO ● SOUND

A FO

● PANTHEON 70 VIA DEL SEM

SAL ITA DE’C RES CEN ZI

● MI & CHI

S T IN

LETT

I PA IA DE

● AR

RA ● N IC O T

● OTTICA VERGERIO

LE ARTIGIANE DI ROMA ●

● STILOFETTI

● CAMPER

RCU R

BARUFFI ●

IA N A

● ME

THE PLACE ● CLARKS ● IL PAPIRO ● STOCK CHIC ●

Piazza Della Rotonda

VIC

DEGLI ● EFFETTI

LLO

Piazza Rondanini

O OL

ELL

Piazza Capranica

DEGLI EFFETTI ● MASSIMILIANO ARPIGA ●

● V IV

V NO

U T IL E

VIA DEL CO RA

VIA D

ZZ O

E&F

BRI

ICO

CALEFFI ●

ALEN

VIA DE L PO

ARTE ORAFA ●

I GA

DEL F

● COSIMO COLONNA ● EX ● DANAE ● CARTOLERIA DEL PANTHEON ● DANI ● TOTEM ● TESTONI V I A C. A N TO N I N A

S E N IC

● U T IL

E CC H I O

VIA DELLE COPPELLE

DAVIDE CENCI JUNIOR ●

A OV

V I A DE

O LO

ER N O V OV

VIA DELL A M A D D

● TERRACINA

● AR

VIC

C DE ● AL L G ● VA L L I

X SHO

● ALE

Terracina Terracina frst opened in 1928 and made its name selling high-quality shirts. in the intervening years, Terracina has grown rapidly to embrace a wide range of more casual clothing, with a particular focus on Superga products. The store specialises in sports and streetwear items and stocks pieces from some of the world’s most prestigious international brands, including Barbour, ralph Lauren Jeans, Henri Lloyd and adidas.

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Terracina, Via Ufci del Vicario 2, 00186 rome, +39 0679 2847, terracinastore.com

Place Of Interest

SHOP Recommendation

108 | G U I D E

Via Cola di Rienzo Area Via Cola di Rienzo ● YAMAMAY ● DI NEPI

● IRON G

VI A AL ES SA

ND RO FA RN

VI A

E SE

CA RO LU CR EZ IO

● VERONICA TOSCANO ● SWAROVSKI ● EMPRESA

● PLAY LIFE

VI A CI CE RO

LO NN A AN TO NI O CO VI A MA RC CELLUPRICA ●

● LA TAVOLA ELEGANTE ● THE BRIDGE ● CLICHÈ ● GAJ ALDO ● ● ● ● ● ●

VIA TA CIT O

3 MILK FOLLIE CARLA G SUB DUED BRANDY & MELVILLE VIA ORAZIO

CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●

VIA ATTILIO REGOLO TRU TRUSSARDI ● INTIMISSIMI ● KIKO ● SWATCH ● COIN ●

VIA VIRGILIO

● MANI DI FATA ● MAGAZINE ● GEOX ● ● ● ●

NIKE CROSSETTE YAMAMAY DI NEPI

ZARA HOME ● DAVID SADDLER ● MISS SIXTY ● SABON ● TWIN-SET ● FRANCESCHINI ● COCCINELLE ● NUVOLARI ● FABIO DE MARCO ● TOMMY HILFIGER ● LIZA ● FAMAR ● TOWER ●

● CASAGRANDE ● ROSAKI ● EREDI PISANÒ

VIA COLA DI RIENZO

VIA EZ IO

ROCCA GIOIELLERIA ● INSUPERABITI ● MANILA GRACE ● ARMONY ● FORNARINA● BALLIN ● ENERGIE ●

● TRANCANELLI

PULL STOP ●

GIORGIO RUBEN ●

VIA OVIDIO ● RAFI RUBEN CAMICIE ●7 ● ESOTICA ● BRIAN CRESS ● PAUL TAYLOR ● OPTISSIMO ● ABITART ● PROFUMERIA BERTOZZINI ● CASTRONI VIA TE RE NZIO

VIA FABIO MASSIMO

DESIGN OPTICAL ●

PENNY BOUTIQUE ●

VIA PAOLO E MILIO GOLDEN POINT ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ● TIM ● LUIS SPAGNOLI ● CHOPIN● BENETTON ● DANY BABY ● STEFENAL ●

WEEKEND MAX MARA ● ANN GIGLI ● ANGELO DI NEPI ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● MAX MARA ● VIA SILLA GENTE ● FELLINI ● COLLAGE ● TIMBERLAND ● GUESS ● NARA CAMICIE ● CHLO ● SISLEY ● PETIT BATEAU ● TIM ● TATIE ● ORIGINAL MARINES ●

● BEVERLY HILLS ● OTTICA ● FURLA ● LOVABLE ● THE BODY SHOP ● ACCESSORIZE VIA PR OP ER ● HALFON ZIO ● MAMILLA ● GENTE OUTLET ● NAU ! ● RAGGI ● LIU JO ● PAUL BIANCO ● BOGGI

● MANDARINA DUCK ● FELLINI ● PULL LOVE ● RAGGI ● DICKINSON

Beverly Hills Despite a name that conjures up Hollywood glamour, Beverly Hills ofers a clothing collection that is infuenced by understated italian elegance. The varied collection features a number of designer labels, with a particular focus on italian brands, alongside a range of complementary shoes and accessories. staf members are known for their sense of style and personalised approach to customer service.

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Beverly Hills, via Cola di rienzo 222, 00192 rome, +39 06 6880 6184, beverlyhillsroma.com

SHOP Recommendation

110

When you shop the world, shop tax free Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process. 1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form.

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your Tax Free Forms stamped before collecting your refund at one of our customer service desks. Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €154.94 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. At some refund points an additional fxed fee per Tax Free Form is charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

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Rome Fiumicino Airport To Gate G

To Gate B-C-D

To Gate G-H

Gate H1

To Gate Area D

To Gate C

Security Control to Gate G

To Gate Area B

Terminal 3 Terminal 1

Terminal 5

Milan Malpensa Airport

Check in Area 2nd Floor

To Gat

es B

Area B Extra Schengen 1st Floor

Key

Area A Schengen 1st Floor

Refund location details: Partner Refund point

Global Blue Customer Services

Landside

Tax Free Mailbox

Check-In Area

Airside

Security Control

Stairs

globalblue.com

Rome Fiumicino Airport Terminal 3, Departures, Gate H1 Terminal 5, Departures Downtown Rome Forexchange Maccorp, Via del Caravita 6, 00186 Rome Pantheon, Piazza della Rotonda 68B, 00187 Rome Trevi, Via del Lavatore 88A, 00187 Rome

112

Translations Русский ПеРевод 56: Style Miles

PHOTO: STEPHEN DOIG

Тропы моды

Чарли Найдпат составил модный путеводитель по Риму, обратив внимание и на прародителей гладиаторского стиля, и на улицы и скверы, по которым некогда прогуливались самые разные культурные герои, как Караваджо или Одри Хепберн Извилистые мощеные улицы и просторные бульвары Рима – настоящая сокровищница для любознательных путешественников. За любым поворотом может скрываться старинная достопримечательность, национальный или культурный памятник. Буквально на каждом шагу хочется фотографировать городские пейзажи, каких не встретить больше нигде. Но не менее интересно проследить и модную историю итальянской столицы, следов которой, к счастью, предостаточно. Такой альтернативный взгляд на городское пространство заставляет исследовать Рим с точки зрения стиля и воздавать должное его роли в мировом модном наследии. Бесспорно, Колизей – один из величайших памятников древней цивилизации. Но кроме этого, globalblue.com

он считается источником весьма устойчивого стиля – гладиаторского. Сандалии на плоской подошве, бахрома и юбки из кожи и другие характерные элементы в наши дни встречаются в коллекциях самых разных брендов от Gucci до Marc Jacobs, однако корнями уходят в эпоху Колизея. Побывав в роскошных итальянских бутиках Valentino, Gucci, Fendi и Bottega Veneta в окрестностях улицы Via dei Condotti, поклонникам моды стоит отправиться в штаб-квартиру Valentino рядом с Испанской лестницей. Именно отсюда всей империей модного дома управляют Мария Грация Кьюри и Пьерпаоло Пиччиоли. По удачному совпадению, совсем рядом, на извилистой и тенистой Via Veneto, в 1950-е годы начиналась славная история бренда. В те годы Via Veneto просто притягивала самых известных людей Рима, и именно здесь молодой кутюрье Валентино Гаравани встретил своего будущего партнера Джанкарло Джамметти и заложил основы модного дома Valentino. Кьюри и Пиччиоли не стали менять прописку марки на парижскую и по-прежнему разрабатывают великолепные платья в Риме, выражая тем самым истинное уважение к модному наследию бренда. Знаменитая Испанская лестница часто выступает декорацией к модным показам: каждый год итальянские дизайнеры представляют здесь свои летник коллекции, помещая моделей во впечатляющие исторические декорации. Продолжая наше путешествие, мы обнаружим еще одну модную достопримечательность - на улице Via Margutta. Эти дома одноквартирные знамениты своими жильцами: столь очаровательную улицу предпочитали Труман Капоте и Федерико Феллини. А в доме 51 принцесса Анна (Одри Хепберн) провела ночь с Джо Брэдли (Грегори Пек) в «Римских каникулах». Лаконичные блузки, струящиеся юбки и роскошные туфли без каблука, в которых Хепберн появилась в фильме, подобраны мастером костюма Эдит Хэд из MGM. А после премьеры этот комплект стал воплощением особого римского шика. Все эти культовые сцены разрабатывались в киностудии Cinecittà Studios на юге города: там вы сможете пройти буквально по следам легенд кинематографа. Стиль Gucci был синоним римской роскоши до того, как Том Форд сделал марку экспертом

115

соблазнительного вечернего образа. В римской штаб-квартире бренда одевались итальянские принцессы, а Джеки Онассис покупала шарфы и сумки. Родом из Рима и Фрида Джаннини, дизайнер марки. Только приняв бразды правления в 2006 году, в поисках эстетического вдохновения для своих дизайнеров, она решила перебазировать офисы компании из Флоренции в Рим. Ее коллекции для Gucci всегда пронизывает дух римской роскоши 1950-х. Лаконичные рубашки и расклешенные юбки, роскошные барочные мотивы, созданные под воздействием изящных гирлянд на римских зданиях, и дымчатые одеяния итальянских соблазнительниц – коллекции дизайнера для Guccii всегда пронизывает дух римской роскоши 1950-х сезон за сезоном. Разумеется, не только мода черпает вдохновение из атмосферы этого города. Великолепные просторные сады Вилла Богезе вдохновляли Энгра и Бальтюса, а Караваджо когда-то жил и работал в здании, в котором сейчас располагается отель Softel. Пройти по следам гениальных художников, или полюбоваться городскими пейзажами, изменившими облик моды – мы выбрали самые интересные модные достопримечательности для нашего альтернативного путеводителя по Риму. valentino.com, cinecittastudios.it, gucci.com, softel.com

64: Inside Story

PHOTO: BENGT NYMAN CC-BY-SA 2.0

ИЗ ПЕРВЫХ РУК

Салли МакИлхон рассказывает о современных интерьерных магазинах, поселившихся на старинных улицах Рима

Важнейшие культурные достопримечательности Рима, одного из древнейших городов мира, связаны с историей. Величественный Колизей, изящный фонтан Треви и другие старинные памятники итальянской столицы круглый год привлекают огромное количество путешественников. Упиваясь красотой скульптур и проникаясь величием Пантеона, гости не забывают уделять внимание и модному достоянию мегаполиса. В городе, обладающем столь блестящим прошлым, магазины интерьерного дизайна устремлены в будущее, чем и пленяют покупателей со всего мира. Изумительная площадь Пьяцца-дель-Пополо, которую украшают здания с куполами и египетский обелиск, навевает атмосферу старинных эпох. В то же время, отступив от нее на несколько шагов по Passeggiata di Ripetta, вы попадете в магазин самого современного дизайна Magazzini Associati. Весь его ассортимент оригинальной современной мебели и домашней утвари подбирает лично его хозяйка Марианна Марини. И это место хорошо знакомо передовым римским архитекторам и дизайнерам интерьера. По словам пресс-секретаря компании Лауры Гаглиарди, неповторимая успешная философия компании основывается на «любопытстве, страсти и желании предлагать необычные вещи, которые невозможно купить где-то еще»: «Наша специализация - компании, дизайнеры и мастера, на которых не повлияло серийное производство. Они создают единичные предметы и с уважением относятся к окружающей среде». Действительно, главная сила Magazzini Associati – умение находить оригинальные дизайнерские решения от современных итальянских брендов: здесь есть и софа Motoso, и светильники Opinion Ciatti, и керамика Paola C. «Я всегда участвую в отраслевых выставках, в том числе – иностранных, - уточняет Гаглиарди, подчеркивая, что ее компания готова на многое в поиске самых инновационных разработок на рынке. - Я специально выделяю время, чтобы бывать в мастерских и цехах компаний, которые несмотря на свой великолепный уровень, все еще не очень известны. Это по душе архитекторам, с которыми мы сотрудничаем: таким образом, мы можем предлагать им новые, функциональные вещи по весьма умеренной цене». Мы особенно рекомендуем отправиться в Magazzini Associati, если вам интересно познакомиться с самыми востребованными среди римских дизайнеров интерьерными проектами. Модный дизайнерский магазин Atelier Monti,

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витрины которого наполнены стильной домашней утварью, удачно расположился в самом центре старинного римского района - на улице Via Panisperna неподалеку от Колизея. В марте 2013 года компания отметила десятилетие, и все эти годы она предлагает услуги по индивидуальному дизайну интерьера, а также продает уникальные предметы искусства, мебель и светильники от таких брендов, как Danese Milano и Luceplan. Массимо Лукарини утверждает, что именно Atelier Monti стал первопроходцем в своем деле. Он называет «вызовом» саму идею открыть бутик современного дизайна в историческом центре города. Но именно это вдохновило других поклонников и знатоков декора: «Когда мы только открыли наш магазин, он стал единственным ориентиром в этой сфере. Теперь же многие последовали за нами. За последние 40 лет в Риме появилось немало компаний, таких как наша, которые оказали серьезное влияние на интерьеры римских домов. И именно в Риме находится один из самых важных архитектурных университетов Европы, который выпускает очень талантливых архитекторов». В Atelier Monti также с легкостью удовлетворят любые запросы современных дизайнеров интерьеров. Многие римские архитекторы, действительно, с удовольствием применяют современные веяния к своим проектам. Добавьте к этому характерную для 21 века страсть к оригинальности и технологичности – и вы получите возросшую популярность стильной домашней утвари в итальянской столице. Но не теряет востребованности и эклектичный декор в винтажном стиле. Магазин Serra расположился на улице Via Margutta и соседствует с Artemide, продавцом авангардных светильников, и Lago, экспертом в хранении вещей. Ассортимент Serra впечатляет: от яркого муранского стекла Venini до традиционных обеденных аксессуаров. Марио Серра основал свой бутик в 1924 году, и с тех пор его клиентами становились римские аристократы и даже королевская фамилия. Сейчас магазином управляют супруги Алессандро и Орнелла Серра, и сюда по-прежнему приезжают за фарфором Meissen и хрусталем Baccarat. «В нашем ассортименте – только те компании, которые являются безусловными лидерами в своей сфере. Мы стараемся сочетать неподвластную времени классику с современным, свежим дизайном, - Орнелла лично изготавливает на заказ столешницы с мраморной мозаикой. – Эти вещи globalblue.com

представляют самую суть классической итальянской истории, облеченной в современное ремесло». Алайн Мартин также мастерски придает классическим образцам современный облик. Его магазин называется просто Alain и находится к западу от центра, на улице Via del Pellegrino. Вашему вниманию мебель, созданная между 1920-ми и 1980-ми годами, антиквариат и его собственные кресла ручной работы. «Интерьерный дизайн для меня всегда был неотъемлемой частью жизни. Сейчас он превратился в то, что принято называть moda – моду», - делится он. Объединяя современные тенденции с особым отношением к истории, римские эксперты в области интерьера создают новый дизайнерский стиль. magazziniassociati.it, ateliermonti.it, serra-roma.it, alainrome.com

72: Made By Hand

Ручная работа

Стивен Дойг выбрал самые интересные римские бренды с большой историей, продукцию которых наверняка оценят по достоинству поклонники эксклюзивных вещей ручной работы Испанская лестница и центральная Via Condotti укоренены в истории Рима. Поэтому в наши дни именно этот квартал избрали для себя роскошные модные бренды мирового уровня: Christian Dior, витрины которого выходят на лестницу, Louis Vuitton и многие другие расположились на мощеных улочках в историческом центре столицы. Тем более волнующим предстает поиск эксклюзивных сокровищ ручной работы: известность этих марок с громким именем удачно оттеняют и маленькие ремесленные компании, которые специализируются на трудоемких вещах ручной работы. В современном мире быстрой моды компании со своей историей, не попадающие на

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радары стиля, приобретают особую ценность. К счастью, Рим – идеальное направление для модных кладоискателей. Увитая плющом улица Via Margutta прячется неподалеку от шумной Испанской лестницы и Via Condotti. Ее обрамляют роскошные одноквартирные дома, выкрашенные в различные оттенки желтого – лютиковый, мандариновый, сепию. Неудивительно, что именно здесь проходили съемки фильма «Римские каникулы». И марка Saddlers Union также выбрала это тихое место для своей мастерской, не отмеченной ни вывесками, ни витринами. Фирменный магазин появился в 1957 году, когда римские кинозвезды по всему городу искали качественные кожаные вещи этой марки. С легкой руки Джеки Онассис круглая сумка Saddlers Union в форме ведра превратилась в культовую вещь. Итальянские аристократы, в числе которых был и президент компании Fiat Джанни Аньелли, заказывали здесь эксклюзивные саквояжи. Ведь когда речь идет о настоящей, искусной роскоши, едва ли кто-то может сравниться с Saddlers Union. В 2004 году компания закрылась, а уже в 2009 обрела вторую жизнь, когда за нее взялись дизайнер и трендсеттер Микаела Калабрези Маркони и ее братпредприниматель Паоло. Маркони, которая до этого работала в PR-службе Джорджио Армани, уже давно была поклонником бренда Saddlers Union. А услышав о его закрытии, решила возродить эту истинно римскую икону стиля. «Моя семья была постоянным клиентом этой марки, - делится Маркони. – Я разыскала одного из мастеров на окраине Рима, он работал над кожаными вещами у себя в гараже. Я была просто обязана предложить ему открыть Saddlers заново». Дизайнер сумела убедить мастера, показав ему пространство будущего салона. И теперь новый магазин марки расположен прямо напротив дома, где когда-то жил Федерико Феллини. Каждая сумка и ремень, как и вся коллекция для дома (это новшество 21 века), создаются из итальянской кожи, обрабатываются и отделываются исключительно вручную. Компания тщательно следит за соблюдением фирменного стиля в самых сдержанных формах и цветовых оттенках – никаких логотипов или другого модного брендинга. Безупречные дорожные кейсы из кожи шоколадного оттенка выглядят так, будто их только что сняли с багажной полки «Восточного экспресса» (хотя их современность выдают функциональные колеса).

Кожаные директорские кресла и, конечно, культовая круглая сумка из роскошной страусиной кожи – все это результат интенсивного труда и накопленного поколениями опыта. Что еще нужно поклонникам роскоши? Если угодно, вашу покупку украсят чем-то особенным: например, роскошным росчерком инициалов. Безмерное уважение римлян к прошлому выразилось в создании Ассоциации исторических магазинов Рима (Associazione Negozi Storici di Eccellenza di Roma). Ее задача – поддерживать сохранившиеся с давних времен заведения. Среди ее членов особое место занимает Calef – традиционная итальянская мастерская, которая еще с конца 19 века специализируется на рубашках. Для нее нет ничего важнее, чем профессионализм мастеров. Именно поэтому все сорочки, сшитые вручную по индивидуальной мерке, сидят идеально. В работе используется только лучший египетский хлопок: марка обращается к тому же поставщику тканей, что и Louis Vuitton и Charvet. Cartoleria Pantheon – еще одно название, которое мы рекомендуем запомнить поклонникам изысканных вещей ручной работы, истории и итальянского ремесленного наследия. Три маленьких, но очень живописных магазина этой компании, в которых сохранились оригинальные интерьеры из темного дерева, расположились на мощеных улочках рядом с Пантеоном и площадью Пьяцца-Навона. Но главное, в них по-прежнему живо и процветает старинное искусство книжного переплета и производства качественной бумаги. Компания была основана в 1910 году и уже больше века продает оформленные вручную изящными узорами записные книжки, роскошную упаковочную бумагу, аксессуары для письма, в том числе ручки из муранового стекла и перья, промокательную бумагу и восковые печати. Обратите внимание на картонные музыкальные шкатулки с иллюстрациями, изображающими танцующих девушек и скрипачей. На секунду может показаться, что вы оказались в прошлом, однако это по-прежнему самое сердце современного шумного Рима. Все эти бренды помогают традиционным прикладным искусствам Италии не просто сохраняться, но и процветать в большом городе. saddlersunion.com, calef.net, negozistoricieccellenza.it, pantheon-roma.com

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从今日时尚角斗士造型的古老源头，到奥黛丽赫本与卡拉瓦乔曾

110: When you shop the world, shop tax free

经徜徉的街道与花园，Charlie Neidpath为您指点罗马时尚内幕

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从蜿蜒的鹅卵石路到宽敞的林荫大道，罗马对游人而言无疑是一个宝库；每一个转弯处都能发现重要古迹、国家纪念碑或是文

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化图腾。想要几分钟就穿越城市，不为沿途风物吸引而流连，几乎是不可能的任务。然而，尽管罗马坐拥数不胜数的迷人历史遗迹，城中也不乏众多重要的时尚地标。一种探索这座城市的新方法，就是以敏锐的时尚观察力，向丰富的时尚遗产致敬。古罗马斗兽场无疑是最显赫的古代文明象征之一，其同样也是当今久盛不衰的时尚潮流：角斗士风格的灵感来源。角斗士风格为时尚界带来皮革镶边、平底凉鞋与皮裙等款式，在从 Gucci到Marc Jacobs等各大品牌的系列中都可见其身影，这一切都是从斗兽场孕育而生。 Via dei Condotti大街附近的众多意大利知名品牌店铺，在穿过Valentino, Gucci, Fendi与Bottega Veneta后，时尚爱好者们抵达了朝圣之旅的首站，西班牙阶梯附近的Valentino总部。由创意总监Maria Grazia Chiuri与Pierpaolo Piccioli掌舵的Valentino时尚帝国就运行于此。附近曲折蜿蜒、树荫掩映的 Via Veneto，见证了Valentino起始于1950年代的故事的开端。在当时，这条街道如磁铁般吸引着城中大腕，也正是在这里，年轻的时装设计师Valentino Garavani遇见了他的妻子，同时也是生意伙伴的Giancarlo Giammett，从此奠定了Valentino品牌的根基。今日，Chiuri与Piccioli Chiuri同样在罗马为品牌设计着异想天开的长袍，而没有迁至巴黎——这正象征着他们对此处历史遗迹的尊重。附近的西班牙台阶也充当着时装秀的天然舞台，每年都会举办周边品牌的夏季系列发布，届时这座伟岸的阶梯会被成群的模特占领。随着冒险的脚步深入这座城市，另一处时尚宝藏便悄然现身。Via Margutta藏匿着许多城中最具有文化价值的联排房屋。Truman Capote与Federico Fellini都曾经居住在这条

美文翻译

美丽的街道上，而Via Margutta 51号，也是安妮公主（奥黛丽· 赫本）与乔·布拉德利（格里高利·派克）在《罗马假日》中共度良宵之处。赫本那风格明快的衬衣，飘逸的半身裙与别致的平底

56: Style Miles 时尚源远流长

鞋，都是由美高梅的服装鬼才Edith Head设计的，这些造型也演变处一种独具魅力的罗马时尚风格。想要了解这些影响深远的电影是如何编制而成，不妨向南前往Cinecittà Studios电影城，漫步于传奇影片中。在Tom Ford将Gucci打造成天黑出没的吸血鬼风格的许多年前，该品牌是罗马风格的代名词，其罗马总部为Jackie Onassis打造围巾与包袋，还为王室成员服务。现任设计师Frida Giannini是土生土长的罗马人。她在2006年接管品牌之后，决定将办公室从佛罗伦萨迁往罗马，来为设计团队提供更多美学

PHOTO: CC-BY-SA 3.0/LALUPA

灵感，她为品牌带来的系列也注入了50年代的罗马风采。通过

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挺括的衬衣面料、喇叭裙与华丽的洛可可与巴洛克风格（金色图腾与许多罗马建筑上的精致花环设计相呼应）与妖艳的意大利女海妖造型，设计师在每一季都在作品中不着痕迹地演绎着罗马风情。自然，从这座城市汲取灵感的不光是时尚界。延绵、美丽、芬芳的Villa Borghese花园，启发了Ingres与

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Balthus，Caravaggio曾经生活和工作的处所附近是今日的索菲

城中建筑师和室内设计师间广为知晓，根据品牌发言人Laura

特酒店。无论是踏着Caravaggio等巨匠的足迹前行，还是走入

Gagliardi的概括，是因为店铺那独特且异常成功的理念定位“好

曾经改变时尚面貌的场景，这条不同以往的游览路线上铺满了

奇心，激情与敢于推荐非比寻常、别处无从觅得的另类商品。选择

时尚珍宝。

与未沾染上大规模生产恶习的公司、设计师与工匠进行合作，因

valentino.com, cinecittastudios.it,

为他们往往能带来匠心独具的产品，并尊重环境——这就是我们

gucci.com, softel.com

眼中的最优质。”

64: Inside Story

Moroso 沙发、Opinion Ciatti灯具、与Paola C陶瓷等那里挑选原

Magazzini Associati的专长，是从摩登意大利品牌如

内幕新闻

创作品。品牌的创新经营者也费尽心力，在市面上寻觅最有创造力的产品。 “我总是参加这个领域的各个贸易展，即便是远在海外的” Gagliardi表示， “我会花不少时间去拜访那些虽然相当出色，但仍旧不出名的工作坊与公司。这一举动也受到合作建筑师的赞赏，因为我们善于向他们推荐价格合理但新颖实用的产品” 如果想知道每位罗马顶级室内设计师都选择了些什么，不妨去该店一探究竟。离斗兽场咫尺之遥的Via Panisperna上，可以找到前卫设计店铺Atelier Monti——这座颠覆性的家居天堂，位于古罗马城最古老的心脏腹地。店铺在2013三月迎来自己的十周年庆，提供个性定制室内设计服务与系列丰富的独特家居艺术品、家居与灯饰，产品来源品牌包括Danese Milano与Luceplan。 Atelier Monti的Massimo Lucarini相信该店扮演着开拓者的角色，并表示在这座历史古城的中央开设一间摩登设计店铺，的确是一种挑战，但对于其他室内装饰爱好者而言也是一番激励。 “当我们开店时我们是该区域唯一的参照点。现在已经有许多追随者到来。在过去40年中，罗马见证了许多像我们一样的公司，为罗马人的家居设计带来深远的影响。罗马还拥有欧洲最重要的建筑学院之一，培养了许多才华横溢的建筑师。”Atelier Monti也同样受益于这股对室内设计师的需求。罗马为数众多、经验丰富的建筑师们，都力求为作品添上几许摩登气息，来满足21世纪的人们对于新奇事物与高科技的追逐，这也推动了城中超现代家居用品的迅速繁荣，然而同时也不乏偏好不拘一格的复古风内饰的人们。在Via Margutta，竖立着思维超前的照明专家Artemide，几何风格储物专家Lago，还有贩售从Venini旗下色彩斑斓的

在罗马古老的街道间，星罗棋布着诸多超现代室内设计店

Murano玻璃器具，到传统餐具的店铺Serra。这家由Mario

铺，Sally McIlhone 报道

Serra成立于1924年的店铺，曾经是罗马王室与城中显贵的供应

罗马是当今世界最古老的城市之一，这座意大利首都傲然伫立地

旧以Meissen瓷器与Baccarat水晶吸引着客户。 “我们选择的产品

商。如今由夫妻组合Alessandro与Ornella Serra经营的该店，仍向世人宣告，其最具重要的文化景观都是蕴藏历史的那些。从摇

和品牌，都是各自领域内的佼佼者， ” Ornella Serra 解释道,“我

摇欲坠但不损其雄伟的斗兽场，到精雕细琢的特雷维喷泉奇观，

们总是尝试将永恒经典与摩登新鲜结合起来。”品牌的客户定制

这座亚平宁首府拥有的古文物全年都吸引着游客纷至沓来。到访

系列还包括Ornella自行生产的大理石马赛克桌面。 “这些作品是

者们为各色美丽雕像所沉醉，为帕提农神庙之庄严而震惊，同时

以现代工艺包裹意大利文化历史之神髓的产物。

也为罗马长期兴盛的时尚产业添砖加瓦。然而这座拥有着丰富历史的城市，一部分室内设计店铺已经将眼光投向未来——也投向了招人喜欢的国际消费者们。宏伟的圆拱建筑与高耸的埃及方尖碑，让Piazza del

另一位致力于更新经典设计的工匠是Alain Martin，他的店铺就叫做Alain，位于城市西边的Via del Pellegrino，贩售设计于20与80年代之间的家具产品、古董与自己设计的另类手工凳。 “室内设计对我而言就是一种自然的生活方式。如今它变得

Popolo广场引人人赞叹，并细细回味远古时代。然而在几步之

更时尚了而已”设计师表示。将摩登酷感与昨日情怀融合一体，

遥的Passeggiata di Ripetta 上，你会找到现代家居店Magazzini

罗马的室内设计行家们正在开辟新的设计图景。

Associati，这座店铺展示着各色光怪陆离的摩登家具与家居用

magazziniassociati.it, ateliermonti.it,

品，由店主Marianna Marini亲自挑选。Magazzini Associati在

serra-roma.it, alainrome.com

124

72: Made By Hand 妙手生花

Union成立之际，正是城中的电影明星们穿过鹅卵石路，前来寻觅品牌专精的手工皮具配件之时。Jackie Onassis将与众不同的 Saddlers Union马鞍包打造成一代经典；意大利贵族如Gianni

罗马的艺术化历史品牌让手工艺爱好者们无比敬仰。Stephen

Agnelli就在此购买过定制旅行包袋。当一切喧嚣归于宁静，再无

Doig为您历数其中翘楚

人能像Saddlers Union一样延续这股隐形的奢华。

在历史与浪漫交织的罗马西班牙台阶与Via Condotti大街，如今

Fellini的故居对面。设计师与时尚先锋Micaela Calabresi

Saddlers Union在2009年焕发新生，如今为于Federico 搜罗了一众全球时尚奢侈品品牌。从克里斯丁迪奥门店的整体

Marconi与她的生意人兄弟Paolo，重新启动了这个曾在2004年

建筑，可以俯瞰奢华的路易威登店铺的台阶，这些举世闻名的品

偃旗息鼓的品牌。曾经在Giorgio Armani品牌从事公关工作的

牌将这些鹅卵石铺成的街道当成自己的家。然而，这些名声震天

Marconi，长久以来都是Saddlers Union出色工艺的拥戴者，他

的名字的品牌也使得寻觅艺术品、手工艺品、高人工投入、来客

一听到品牌关闭的消息，就开始着手于复兴这个罗马的标志,“我

定制产品的旅程更为激动人心。找寻这些时尚珍宝的过程就好

的家族曾经是品牌的顾客。”Marconi说道， “我找到了如今居住

像是在猎松露。在今日的快时尚世界里，蕴含历史且不为人知的

在罗马郊区的创始人之一。他在自己的车库里制作手工艺品。我

艺术品牌，不亚于珍贵文物，而令人欣慰的是，罗马便拥有这样

禁不住问他，为何不重开Saddlers？”设计师在带领这名工匠参

的一座宝库。

观了店铺后说服了后者。

在熙熙攘攘的西班牙台阶与Via Condotti附近，有一条布

品牌的每款包袋、皮带、以及21世纪新推出的家居系列，都

满常春藤的街道Via Margutta，电影罗马假日曾经在这里取景。

是使用意大利皮革手工制造，从内衬到包边都由手工完成，在形

这里远离主要街道，伫立着内饰华丽的，奶黄、棕褐或蜜桔色的

状与颜色的挑选上也是谨慎之极，产品上没有任何明显的logo或

罗马式联排屋。成立于1957年的Saddlers Union在此拥有一件

品牌名出现。那无可挑剔的巧克力棕色皮革旅游袋，就好像是从

僻静的工作室与店铺，没有任何显著标示或橱窗成列。Saddlers

东方快车（虽然配备了符合现代需求的便利车轮）的行李架上刚

globalblue.com

125

被人取下，还有皮革导演椅，以及用鸵鸟皮制造的标志性水桶手

日本語翻訳

袋，都是密集的手工劳动与几代人的心血之结晶。这难道不是对奢侈品消费者的最终极宠爱？如果他们渴望，尽可以在其中填满

56: Style Miles

姓名首字母这样的定制元素。

スタイルをたどる旅

出于对传统品牌的敬意，罗马创立了一个罗马优秀经典老店协会（Associazione Negozi Storici di Eccellenza di Roma），这个协会旨在保留当地古老的宝藏。协会中最吸引人的店就是19 世纪后期传统意大利衬衫制造商Calef。店里的衬衫使用上好的埃及棉布手工定制而成，这种棉布的品牌同时也是路易威登和法国高级定制衬衣品牌Charvet的面料供应商，由它手工制造出来的衬衫精美又合身。卓越手工艺的鉴赏家们，还可以在Cartoleria神殿附近找到丰厚且无与伦比的历史与遗迹，那就是神庙与纳沃纳广场周围的鹅卵石街道内的三座小型又古朴的商店。每家店中都保留着其原有的深色木质内饰，古老的手工书籍装订和造纸工艺在仍旧在此散发着活力。该品牌成立于1910年，专注于生产纹样精美细腻的手绘笔记本，以及华丽精美的手绘包装纸，还有书写配件，譬如以穆拉诺岛玻璃制作的工笔、羽毛笔、流水帐和火漆章，此外还有如同工艺品般的——手绘纸质音乐盒，将跳舞的姑娘和小提琴演奏家刻画得栩栩如生。这一切都将人带入往昔，而其实就位于罗马繁华的心脏。来自这些品牌的手工产品，不仅充满灵性还让整座城市为之悸动。 saddlersunion.com, calef.net, PHOTO: DAN & CORINA LECCA

negozistoricieccellenza.it, pantheon-roma.com

110:When you shop the world, shop tax free 畅购全球，尊享退税当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，环球蓝联

今流行のグラディエータールックが生まれた闘技場から、オード

（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约

リー・ヘップバーンやカラヴァッジョがそぞろ歩いた街路や公園

购物开销。

まで、チャーリー・ニードパスがスタイル通のローマ観光ルートを

每年有两千三百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得

ご紹介する。

购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单

ローマの曲がりくねった石畳の道や不規則に延びる大通りには、

的退税过程：

観光の見どころが一杯だ。角を曲がるたびに、歴史的建造物や国定記念物、文化的象徴が姿を現す。市街地を数分歩くごとに、

1. 消费购物

写真を撮る値打ちのあるものに出くわすといってもいいほどだ。こ

无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax

うした豊富な歴史遺産は確かに魅力的だが、この都市には重要

Free Form），并记得保存小票。

なスタイルランドマークになっている場所もある。ローマを楽しむ

2. 申请退税

もう一つの方法は、洋服店に注目しながら、この都市がファッシ

当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们在您的

ョン史に残してきた足跡をたどって歩くことだ。

退税表格上盖章，然后再到我们的客服柜台领取您的退税款。

コロッセオは、古代文明を今に伝える偉大な建造物の一つであるのは言うまでもないが、ファッションの世界で最も古くから

联系方式：

残るスタイルトレンドの一つ、剣闘士（グラディエーター）服の発

taxfree@globalblue.com

祥の地でもある。革の房飾りやフラットサンダル、革スカートとい

+421 232 111 111

ったグラディエーター風のスタイルは、グッチからマーク・ジェイコ

最低消费€154.94并且节约高达购买价格15.5%的税。请注意：最

ブスまで様々なコレクションに見受けられるが、それらのスタイル

终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。

は全てここから始まったのだ。

126

ファッションファンなら、コンドッティ通り周辺でヴァレンテ

タイリッシュなローマを体験できる。

ィノ、グッチ、フェンディ、ボッテガ・ヴェネタの贅沢なイタリアフ

valentino.com、cinecittastudios.it、

ァッションを堪能した後、近くのスペイン階段付近にあるヴァレン

gucci.com、sofitel.com

ティノ本店をまずは覗いてみるといい。現在マリア・グラツィア・キウリとピエールパオロ・ピッチョーリがクリエイティブディレクタ

64: Inside Story

ーを務めるヴァレンティノ帝国の本拠がここだ。1950年代にヴァ

インサイドストーリー

レンティノの歴史が始まったのが、この近くの曲がりくねった並木道ヴェネト通りというのが好都合だ。当時、ヴェネト通りはローマの一流人が集まる所だった。若き服飾デザイナー、ヴァレンティノ・ガラヴァーニがビジネスパートナーで生涯のパートナーでもあるジャンカルロ・ジアメッティに出会ったのもここで、その場所にヴァレンティノブランドの礎石を据えたのだ。現在、キウリとピッチョーリは同ブランドの特徴である奇抜なドレスを、パリではなくこのローマでデザインしている。同社の歴史を尊重してのことだ。一方、近くのスペイン階段はイタリアの様々なデザイナーがファッションショーの舞台として使ってきた。毎年、周辺のブランドを集めたサマーコレクションが開催され、堂々たる大階段がモデルで溢れる。さらに歩を進めると、ファッション史にきらめくシーンがまた一つ現れる。ちょっと奥まったマルグッタ通りに、この都市で最も文化的意義の大きな一連のタウンハウスがある。トルーマン・カポーティやフェデリコ・フェリーニが住んだのがこの美しい通りで、51番地は「ローマの休日」でアン王女（オードリー・ヘップバーン）が一晩を過ごしたジョー・ブラッドリー（グレゴリー・ペック）のアパートだ。ヘップバーンの凛としたシャツ、フレアスカート、シックなフラットシューズはMGMの凄腕衣装デザイナー、イデス・ヘッドの作で、この装いが一種の清潔感を湛えたローマの魅力につながっていく。そうした象徴的なシーンが考案された場所を見たければ、南下してチネチッタ・スタジオを訪ね、伝説的な銀幕のスターたちの足跡をたどろう。グッチはトム・フォード時代に妖婦的な夜のルックスの典型になったが、かつてはローマン・シックの代名詞で、ローマ本店製のスカーフやバッグがジャッキー・オナシスの装いに趣きを添え、

ローマの古びた通りには、超モダンなインテリアデザインのお店

ドレスがプリンセスたちを美しく飾ったものだ。現在デザイナー

がわんさとある。サリー・マキルホーンがレポートする。

を務めるフリーダ・ジャンニーニはローマ生まれ。2006年にブランドを引き継いだ後、デザインチームに美的インスピレーションを

ローマは世界で最も古い都市の一つ。このイタリアの首都を代表

与えるため、事務所をフィレンツェからローマへ移す決断をした。

する文化財の周辺が歴史の香りに満ちているのも当然だ。朽廃は

ジャンニーニのグッチコレクションは、50年代のローマの魅力を

していても荘厳なコロッセオから込み入った彫刻が見事なトレビ

醸し出す。シャープなシャツとフレアスカート、贅沢なロココ・バロ

の泉まで、この町の歴史遺産には一年を通じて大勢の人が訪れ

ック調のあしらい（金のモチーフがローマの建物の多くに見られ

る。彫像の美しさに息を飲みパンテオンの厳粛さに立ちすくむ見

る精細な花輪装飾を思わせる）、怪しげで魅惑的なイタリア美人

物客は、観光の合間にファッションの老舗でショッピングを楽し

の装いなど、毎シーズン、どこかローマ風のスタイルを作品に取り

む。このように過去に負うところの大きいローマだが、インテリア

入れている。

デザイン店は未来をしっかと見つめ、世界各地からの買い物客を

もちろん、ローマの街から発想を得るのはファッションに

魅了している。

限ったことではない。とりとめなく広がる素晴らしく魅力的なヴィ

ドームを頂く建物や中央にそびえるエジプトのオベリスクが

ラ・ボルゲーゼ公園は、アングルやバルテュスにインスピレーショ

印象的なポポロ広場はいかにも古代を彷彿とさせるが、そこから

ンを与えたし、カラヴァッジョもかつてその近くの現ソフィテルホ

ほど近いリペッタ通りにはモダンなデザインストア、マガッツィー

テルに住み、絵筆をふるった。カラヴァッジョのような巨匠の足跡

ニ・アソシアーティがあり、オーナーのマリアンナ・マリーニが自

をたどるもよし、ファッションの様相を一変させたシーンを見るも

ら選んだ風変わりで現代的な家具やインテリア用品を展示してい

よし。普通とはちょっと違ったこの観光ガイドで、とっておきのス

る。マガッツィ－ニ・アソシアーティは、ローマの建築家やインテリ

globalblue.com

127

アデザイナーにはよく知られた存在だ。同ブランドの広報担当者

変わらずだ。「当店が選ぶ商品やブランドは、各分野の一級品ば

ラウラ・ガグリアルディは、この店独特の経営理念の根本をこう

かり」とオルネラ・セッラは説明する。「時代を超えた古典的デザ

要約する。「好奇心、情熱、そして普通とは違う変わったもの、他

インとモダンで斬新なデザインをミックスすることを常に心がけ

では見つからないものを提案したいという気持ちです。作品をシ

ています。」セッラの誂え商品の中には、オルネラ自身が製作す

リーズ化したいという欲望に駆られていない企業やデザイナー、

る大理石のモザイクテーブルトップもある。「これらは、伝統的な

職人を選ぶこと。そういう製作者はユニークな商品を生みやす

イタリアンデザインの真髄を現代の職人技で表現した品です。」

く、環境に配慮した物作りをしています。それが当店のベストクオリティなのです。」この方針が大成功につながっている。

古典的なデザインを現代風にするもう一人の職人がアラン・マルティンだ。シンプルにアランと名付けられた彼の店は、ロ

モローゾのソファーからオピニオン・チアッティの照明、パオ

ーマ市街西部のペレグリーノ通りにあり、1920年代から80年代に

ラＣのセラミックに至るまで、イタリアンモダンのブランドが製作し

かけてデザインされた家具とアンティーク家具、マルティン自身の

たオリジナルの品々を厳選して扱っているのが、マガッツィ－ニ・

ちょっと変わった手作りスツールを置いている。「インテリアデザ

アソシアーティの強みだ。同ブランドの革新的なバイヤーは、市

インは僕にとってはいつも自然なライフスタイルだったけれど、今

場で最も斬新な商品を発掘するための努力を惜しまない。「業界

ではモーダ（ファッション）になっている」という。現代的なクー

の見本市には、外国で開催されるものも含めて必ず顔を出しま

ルさと過去の感覚を融合させるローマのインテリア通が、新たな

す」というガグリアルディ。「休日を利用して、優れた才能が集中

デザインの世界を築いている。

するこの国にありながら未だあまりよく知られていない工房や企

magazziniassociati.it、ateliermonti.it、

業を訪ねて回っています。新しくて機能的な品を妥当な価格で提

serra-roma.it、alainrome.com

案できるのはこうした努力があってこそで、お取引先の建築家の方々に高く評価していただいています。」ローマのインテリアデザ

72: Made By Hand

イナーが「欲しい物リスト」の上位に挙げるアイテムを探すなら、

手作りの味わい

ここがお薦めだ。コロッセオのすぐ近くのパニスペルナ通りには、前衛的なデザインストア、アトリエ・モンティがある。ローマで最も古いリオーネ（地区）の中心に位置しながら、革新的なインテリア用品を集めたお店だ。2013年3月に10周年を迎えた同店では、インテリアデザインの誂えサービスを提供している他、ダネーゼ・ミラノやルーチェプランなどのブランドからユニークな芸術品、家具、照明を数多く取り揃えている。アトリエ・モンティのマッシモ・ルカリーニは同店を草分け的な存在と考えていて、この歴史的都市の真ん中に現代的なデザインブティックをオープンするという「挑戦」が他の室内装飾ファンにインスピレーションを与えたのは確かだという。「オープン当初は当店がこの地域で唯一の評価基準だったんですが、その後うちに続いた店が数多くあります。ここ40年のローマの歴史は、当社のようにこの町のホームインテリアデザインに深い影響を与えてきた数多くの企業の歴史です。ローマには欧州きっての有力建築大学があり、才能豊かな建築家がいます。」アトリエ・モンティでは、モダンインテリアデザイナーのニーズにも応えている。ローマには経験豊かな建築家が多く、それぞれ作品に現代風の要素を加えようとしている。何でも新しくハイテクなものを好む21世紀の傾向もあって、ローマでは超モダンなインテリア用品がブームになっている。一方、ヴィンテージにインスピレーションを得た室内装飾品の折衷的な組み合わせを好む向きもある。未来的な照明の専門店アルテミデやグラフィック性の高い収納家具を得意とするラーゴがあるマルグッタ通りには、ヴェニーニ社製の彩り豊かなムラーノガラス器から伝統的な食器セットまで幅広く取り揃えたお店セッラもある。1924年にマリオ・セッラが創業したこの店は、かつてはローマの貴族や王家の御用達だっ

工芸品の目利きなら、職人技が支えるローマの歴史あるブランド

た。現在はアレッサンドロ・セッラとオルネラ・セッラの夫妻が経

の魅力がわかる。スティーヴン・ドイグがとびきりのブランドをご

営するが、マイセン磁器やバカラクリスタルを置く同店の人気は相

紹介する。

128

ローマのスペイン階段からコンドッティ通りにかけての界隈は歴

の保存を目指す団体、「ローマ卓越ある店舗協会」が設立され

史と浪漫に満ちているが、昨今は世界的高級ファッションブラン

た。人気加盟店の一つが19世紀末創業の伝統的イタリアシャツ

ドが集まる地区でもある。スペイン階段を見下ろすクリスチャン・

メーカー、カレッフィだ。同店誂えの手縫いの紳士用シャツは美

ディオールのモノリシックな店舗から、高級感溢れるルイ・ヴィト

しいエジプト綿製。ルイ・ヴィトンやシャルベと同じメーカーから

ンのブティックまで、石畳の通りには世界の超有名ブランドが居

生地を仕入れ、職人の技を駆使しフィット感を重視して仕上げて

並ぶ。こうした世界のトップブランドが目立つからこそ、職人が

いる。

手間暇かけて手作りする誂え品の店を見つけた時の歓びは格別

手作り品の良さがわかる通なら、カルトレリア・パンテオン

だ。そんな名店探しは、いわばファッション界のトリュフ狩り。フ

の重厚感ある店内でもこの上なく豊かな歴史と伝統を堪能でき

ァーストファッション全盛の今日、職人技を受け継ぎ伝統が息づ

る。同ブランドは、パンテオンとナヴォーナ広場周辺の石畳の通

く隠れたブランドは砂金のようなものだが、嬉しいことにローマに

りに、古風な趣きを湛えるこじんまりした店舗を3軒構えている。

はこうしたお宝がそこここにある。

もともとあったダークウッドの内装を残した各店内には、古くから

スペイン階段やコンドッティ通り周辺の繁華街の近くに、

伝わる製本や製紙の技が今も顕在だ。1910年創業のこのブラン

蔦の垂れるマルグッタ通りがある。メインの通りから隠れたここ

ドは、繊細で美しい模様を手描きしたノートや、すばらしく複雑

は映画「ローマの休日」の撮影場所で、鮮やかなイエローやセピ

な柄の手描きの包装紙、ムラーノガラス製のペンや羽ペン、吸い

ア、赤みの強いオレンジといった色合いの贅沢なローマ式タウン

取り紙、封蠟に捺す印璽などの文房具の他に、ちょっとした目玉

ハウスが連なる。1957年創業のサドラーズ・ユニオンが今も工房

として、楽師の奏でるヴァイオリンにあわせて乙女らが舞い踊る

と店舗を構えるのがこの通り。看板もショーウィンドウもなく、控

シーンを捉えた手描き紙製のオルゴールを製作している。過去に

えめなたたずまいだ。創業当時は、ローマの映画スターが石畳の

タイムスリップしたような感覚に陥るが、これはローマの喧騒の只

通りをやって来て、巧みに作られた同ブランドの革製品を求めた

中に現実に存在する空間なのだ。こうしたブランドのおかげで、こ

ものだ。ジャッキー・オナシスは特徴的な同社のバケットバッグ

の街では伝統工芸が今も生きているどころか栄えている。

を買い求め、おかげでバケットバッグは代表的なスタイルとなっ

saddlersunion.com, caleffi.net, negozistoricieccellenza.it,

た。ジャンニ・アグネッリなどイタリア貴族も、ここで旅行カバンを

pantheon-roma.com

誂えた。さりげなく落ち着いた高級感にかけては、サドラーズ・ユニオンの右に出る者はいない。現在はフェデリコ・フェリーニがかつて住んだ家の向いにあるサドラーズ・ユニオンは、2009年に新たな命を吹き込まれてい

110: When you shop the world, shop tax free 海外でのお買い物が免税に

る。2004年に店を閉め休業していたこのブランドを、デザイナーでトレンドセッターのミカエーラ・カラブレージ・マルコーニと、弟

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用いただきま

で実業家のパオロが再開したのだ。マルコーニはその前はジョル

すと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある27万軒を超える加盟

ジオ・アルマーニの広報担当を務めていたが、昔からサドラーズ・

店でのお買い物がお得になります。

ユニオンの職人技を愛し、閉店したと聞くや、ローマを代表する

年間2300万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッ

このブランドの再生に乗り出したのだ。「家族で贔屓にしていた」

ピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、青い

というマルコーニ。「創業当時からの職人の一人がローマ郊外に

星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「

住んでいることがわかったんです。彼は自宅のガレージで作品を

グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを

作っていました。サドラーズを再開しないかと尋ねずにはいられ

踏むだけです。

なかったんです。」デザイナーのマルコーニはその職人に店舗ス

1. お買い物

ペースを見せ、説得に成功した。

お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税書類（タッ

カバン、ベルト、そして21世紀に新たに導入したインテリア

クスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。レシートを保管する

用品コレクションは全て、イタリア製の革で手作りしている。革は

のも忘れずに。

手仕上げ、手縫いで、ごく落ち着いた色合いと形だけを使い、ロ

2. 還付請求

ゴもなければ一目でそれとわかるファッションブランディングもな

ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認印を押しても

い。非の打ちどころのないチョコレートブラウンの革の旅行カバン

らってから、グローバル・ブルーのカスタマーサービスデスクで払

は、オリエント急行の荷物棚から下ろしてきたかのような趣きで（

い戻しを受けます。

今風の便宜でキャスター付きになっている点を除いて）、革のデ

お問い合わせ：

ィレクターズチェア、そしてもちろん同社を代表する商品バケット

taxfree@globalblue.com

バッグも、極上のダチョウ革を使用している。全て、数世代にわた

+421 232 111 111

って蓄積された知識と丹精込めた仕事の賜物だ。何高級品らしく

€154.94以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高15.5％の

仕上げに何か華が欲しいという向きには、華麗な飾り文字のイニ

払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税

シャルなど、カスタマイズした要素を希望によって加えてくれる。

（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、

歴史あるレーベルに敬意を払う土地柄から、古き良き名店 globalblue.com

その旨ご了承ください。

130 | P RO D U C T S

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PHOTO: GiuSePPe MareSca

Souvenir