SHOP Adriatic Riviera SS15

ADRIATIC RIVIERA | АДРИАТИЧЕСКАЯ РИВЬЕРА 亚得里亚里维埃拉 | アドリア海のリヴィエラ

ADRIATIC RIVIERA Style Edition Summer 2015

Page 20 ALL IN THE JEANS: how designer denim is changing Italy’s fashion landscape

Make your summer even more unforgettable at the

PANDORA Stores Rimini - Via IV Novembre 4 Pesaro - Via Branca 31

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EDITOR’S LETTER Adriatic Riviera Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Германия

Let SHOP reveal a surprising side of the Adriatic Riviera. Read about Italian denim’s highfashion moment (page 20), the region’s most exciting new store openings (page 16), and much more.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in the Adriatic Riviera. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free Global Blue Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Welcome to the Adriatic Riviera

Iceberg Downtown Gallery 40 years of creative dialogues Karley Sciortino, writer New York City

2015

photo Olivier Zahm

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Riccione - Viale Ceccarini ang. Viale Gramsci - T. +39 0541 605922

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ILLUSTRATION: JAMIE JONES

CONTRIBUTORS

Verity Hogan After working for a Mexican magazine and reporting in Romania, history graduate Verity Hogan swapped writing about crinolines and corsets for more contemporary clothes when she moved to London to pursue a career in journalism. She is now SHOP’s features editor; for this issue, she writes about denim’s catwalk moment. globalblue.com

Jamie Jones Jamie Jones created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Adriatic Riviera. His colourful, conceptual work has previously been commissioned by British Airways, Wired UK and Times Higher Education, among others.

His love of bold composition and simple shapes makes him a perfect illustrator for this cover, inspired by our feature on designer denim on page 20.

It shows a fgure in a pair of jeans, which cleverly forms the contours of the Adriatic coastline.

Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Dionne Hélène Dionne Hélène is an artworking assistant for SHOP magazine. She is a sneaker enthusiast and in her spare time she works for Europe’s largest sneaker festival, Crepe City.

She has also created work for Nike and the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. Dionne enjoys sketching, collecting vintage Ralph Lauren items and listening to Action Bronson.

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Jamie Jones Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Production assistant Katie Muxworthy Features editor Verity Hogan City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles

Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Online production assistant Marina Nelson Online assistant Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang Chinese translators Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi

Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Fashion and news intern Rebecca Fearn

Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien

Print Dane Consultancy

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/ deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistant Mónica R Goya Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Samantha Junak

Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto

Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital marketing intern Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Digital intern Sammy Ha Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini

G L O B A L B L U E I TA LY Country manager Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales managers Antonella Bertossi, Flavio Gatti Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Sales key account manager Stefano Cardinale Sales account manager Erika Zahar Global account managers Simone Borgheresi, Sabrina Schiavone, Salvatore Smith Key account managers Monica Affaticati, Benedetta Andreini, Caterina de Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Manuela Intili, Consuelo Murari, Marco Savino Account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Nadia Busletta, Gloria di Domenico, Laura Durante, Gabriele Giuntini, Diana Martin, Sonia Mura, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Giordano Senzacqua Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese, Italy

Chief Executive Officer David Baxby Chief Traveller Officer Craig Le Grice SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

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CONTENTS

PHOTO: GUCCI

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P RO D U C T S 12 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from the Adriatic Riviera this season 14 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N EWS 16 Shop Window One store not to be missed in the Adriatic Riviera 18 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

GU I DE 26 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of the Adriatic Riviera ESSENTIA LS 41 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S

43 Русский Перевод 46 美文翻译 47 日本語翻訳 SOU V E N I R 50 The essential item to bring home

F E AT U R E 20 Cover Story: Into The Blue For spring/summer 2015, Italian denim has been transported out of the streetwear sphere and on to the catwalks, as Verity Hogan explains Above: Gucci spring/summer 2015 , one of this season’s designer collections to feature denim

shop loriblu.com

RICCIONE Viale Dante 5 ang. Viale Ceccarini

FACTORY STORE Porto S. Elpidio (FM) Via dell’Economia 9 (uscita casello A14) tel +39.0734.994696

12 | P RO D U C T S

MAGIC TOUCH For spring/summer 2015, Coccinelle has outdone itself with this hobo bag in emerald suede. The versatile bag comes with a detachable shoulder strap, decorative tassels and gold embellishments. Team with jeans and a crisp white shirt for Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 41

a glamorous daytime look, or with a foaty sundress to capitalise on the bag’s inherent boho chic. Tactile and roomy, this is set to be your go-to bag for the season. th Coccinelle handbag, €270, Coccinelle, Viale Maria Ceccarini 93, 47838 Riccione, +39 0541 605676, coccinelle.com for map go to page 34

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PHOTO: © ICPHOTOGRAPHIE MILANO

CHECK OUT

14 | P RO D U C T S

PURPLE HAZE Dress up and dance the night away in a pretty dress with stylish accessories in purple and monochrome hues

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1. Mango sunglasses, €17.99, Coin, Corso d’Augusto 59, 47921 Rimini, +39 0541 28546, mango.com

3. Baldinini shoes, €559, Baldinini, Corso d’Augusto 90, 47900 Rimini, +39 0541 25486, baldinini.it

2. Chanel nail polish, €23.50, Sephora, Viale Dante 8A, 47838 Riccione, +39 0541 606455, chanel.com

4. Furla bag, €220, Furla, Piazza Tre Martiri 18, 47921 Rimini, +39 0541 21573, furla.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 41

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PHOTO: (5) TOMMASO VECCHI

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5. Pinko dress, €285, Pinko, Viale Maria Ceccarini 47, 47838 Riccione, +39 0541 602730, pinko.it 6. Bijou Brigitte ring, €8.95, Bijou Brigitte, Corso d’Augusto 146, 47921 Rimini, +39 0541 708451, bijou-brigitte.com

globalblue.com

7. Sisley Black Rose Mask, €115, Pinalli, Corso d’Augusto 130, 47921 Rimini, +39 0541 24158, sisley-paris.com

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SHOP WINDOW

LE MARCHE’S NEW GEM Opened to coincide with Expo Milano 2015, Loriblu’s Diamond Palace is an exciting addition to the Marche region. Located close to Loriblu’s headquarters, and created in conjunction with the region’s government, the Palace acts as a local gateway for visitors coming from Milan. From May to October, the Diamond Palace is playing host to local companies, who will display the best of their products and ofers. Designed with Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 41

an eco-friendly philosophy, the structure – as its name suggests – resembles a giant diamond, inspired by the precious stone’s symbolic associations with purity, charm, elegance and luxury. Easily accessible to travellers, Loriblu’s Diamond Palace is also home to a bar and a restaurant, meaning that visitors can take a refreshing break after exploring its many attractions.

Diamond Palace, Strada Provinciale Faleriense, 63821 Porto Sant’Elpidio, +39 0734 994696, loriblu.com * for map go to page 38

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A TASTE OF FERMO The province of Fermo in the Marche region has long been appreciated for its exquisite natural beauty. From its impressive mountains through its rolling hills down to its stunning coastline, the area is truly picturesque, and amid this landscape is a cultural heritage just waiting to be explored. From delicious local delicacies to historical architecture, the region is flled with cultural attractions, and these are not limited to the traditional.

High-end restaurants that give a modern spin on Italian cuisine, contemporary musical and theatrical attractions, and much more mean that the Fermo area ofers

something for every taste and mood. For help planning your trip, the Marca Fermana association has everything you need, from the best places to stay to the regional dishes you must try. mkh Marca Fermana, marcafermana.it * for map go to page 37

STYLE FOR LESS Experience shopping, entertainment and relaxation all in one place with a visit to Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets. Home to 110 stores ofering prestigious brands at discounts of between 30% and 70%, the complex ofers men’s, women’s and children’s clothing, sportswear, accessories and cosmetics. The space also houses art exhibitions, events and activities for the whole family. hl Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets, Via del Commercio 20A, 40023 Castel Guelfo di Bologna, +39 0542 670765, castel-guelfo.thestyleoutlets.it Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 41

S H O P | 19

FASHION CENTRAL When Giuliano Zabberoni opened his Julian Blue boutique in Milano Marittima in 1959, it encapsulated everything its founder adored: fashion, glamour and art. Zabberoni was a man ahead of his times – in fact, some people described him as eccentric – but his vision of what a shop should be struck a chord, and he and his wife Leah Randi were able to open a new store in Ravenna a few years later. The original boutique remains as inviting and intriguing as ever, with a wide range of international luxury brands such as Prada, Lanvin and Stella McCartney, alongside new

designers and niche brands.

For those unable to visit, Julian has also launched an extensive online store. th Julian, Viale Giacomo Matteotti 31, 48020 Milano Marittima, +39 0544 994313, julian-fashion.com

SELECT SOCIETY The frst Ratti boutique was opened in 1945, and from the start the family-run business catered to an exclusive clientele with its selection of pieces for men and women from the most prestigious brands.

The business is now in the hands of the second generation and still focuses on providing its customers with the best from Italian and international brands, ofering pieces from established names as well as newer labels. Ratti’s Pesaro boutique carries accessories and clothes for both men and women, and has a special Hermès corner. fm globalblue.com

Ratti, Via Gioacchino Rossini 71-74, 61121 Pesaro, +39 0721 31031, rattiboutique.com

S H O P | 21

INTO For spring/summer 2015, Italian denim has been transported out of the streetwear sphere and on to the catwalks, as Verity Hogan discovers

THE PHOTO:Š GORUNWAY.COM

This spring/summer, denim is having a fashion moment. This workwear staple appeared on catwalks throughout Milan Fashion Week in every imaginable form.

From jeans to denim dresses, coats

and T-shirts, this hard-wearing material featured heavily in almost every collection, including those of Italy’s fashion powerhouses.

The sudden explosion of denim into the high-fashion landscape

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Opposite: Fendi spring/summer 2015

PHOTO: GUCCI

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links with two of this season’s biggest trends: the 70s and normcore.

It is virtually impossible to capture the spirit of 70s style without denim, whether it’s in the form of a pair of fares or a versatile jacket with shearling collar. The wide adoption of such an everyday favourite also refects a move towards more wearable fashion, also known as normcore.

Italy has a long association with denim, as home to a number of manufacturers and also to premium brands such as Armani Jeans, Miss Sixty and Diesel. Recent evidence also points to the country’s possible role in the invention of denim; paintings believed to be from northern Italy and dating back to the 1650s show people in what appears

to be an early form of the fabric.

The word ‘jean’ is also thought to be derived from the French name for Genoa: Gênes.

2W2M is one of the country’s leading denim labels, often praised for striking the perfect balance between innovation and tradition; for spring/summer 2015 its collection is based on the artist’s studio.

‘Since the beginning, 2W2M has

Above (clockwise from top lef): Gucci; Roberto Cavalli; Botega Veneta, all spring/summer 2015; Alessandro Marchesi, creative director of 2W2M and CEO of Compagnia del Denim

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

S H O P | 23

been passionate about denim,’ explains the brand’s creative director Alessandro Marchesi, who is also CEO of the parent company, Compagnia del Denim. ‘Our distinguishing features are highquality fabrics, a perfect ft and innovative washes.’

The company, which prides itself on its high level of craftsmanship, is based in the Le Marche region, known as ‘Jeans Valley’.

‘Here there are laboratories and laundries which are able to enhance all characteristics of the fabric,’ Marchesi notes. ‘They also provide authenticity, comfort, versatility and, above all, a unique and well-defned style.’

Based in Fossombrone, luxury denim brand Dondup is another leading label of Jeans Valley. Cre-

ated by Massimo Berloni and Manuela Mariotti, Dondup’s collections embody casual cool, with styles ranging from distressed and patchwork to classic bootcut. For visitors to the Marche region, the Archivio Dondup store in Fossombrone ofers an insight into the brand, with the complete men’s and women’s lines, as well as limited-edition styles, all available.

Despite denim’s heritage, spring/summer 2015 marks one of the few times that it has been transported out of the streetwear sphere and on to the catwalk.

And it has made quite an impression. At Gucci, Frida Giannini’s fnal collection for the label offered denim with a military edge. Cropped culottes were paired with tough leather boots;

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

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double-breasted button-up jackets boasted strictly starched collars; and relaxed shirtdresses were casually tied together on the arms and neckline with thick white shoelaces.

Karl Lagerfeld’s denim execution at Fendi was similarly smart.

The designer’s directional approach saw the fabric used to create exaggerated jodhpurs with drawstring waists, ankle zips and a super-slouchy yet sporty feel.

The tone at Roberto Cavalli and Bottega Veneta was much more relaxed. Cavalli’s distressed denim was bleached to a light, almost icy hue, with delicately slashed turn-up jeans set against Victoriana-inspired cream pussybow blouses, while distressed denim sleeve panels gave edge to gold brocade T-shirts. At Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier presented Above: Dsquared2 spring/summer 2015

head-to-toe denim. There were denim dresses in a range of styles; 50s-inspired A-line versions came complete with patchwork panels in difering denim shades, while others had deep V-necks and asymmetric hems. The fabric even featured in tailoring, with a masculine-cut suit being a highlight.

Dsquared2 ofered some of the most covetable denim pieces of the season. Distressed to the point that they resembled decorators’ overalls, the jeans were worn low on the hips with exaggerated turn-ups, while cropped denim jackets were juxtaposed with dramatic full maxi skirts. Even Dolce & Gabbana’s opulent Spanish-inspired collection had space for denim. The designer duo’s interpretation of the trend was typically glamorous, ofering loose-ftting jeans, hanging insolently of hips and heavily embellished with crystals, pearls and gold detailing.

From Dsquared2’s distressed denim to the tailored versions with a military edge at Gucci, there is a denim piece to suit everyone this spring/summer. And it’s a trend that shows no sign of losing momentum. As Marchesi notes, ‘To love a pair of jeans is like falling in love with a person. Only real denim, like a true love, gets better with time; wash by wash, it acquires more charm and soul.’

2w2m.it, dondup.com, gucci.com, fendi.com, robertocavalli.com, bottegaveneta.com, dsquared2.com, dolcegabbana.com

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GUIDE

PHOTO: PHOTOGRAPHIC ARCHIVES OF THE ASSESSORATO AL TURISMO OF THE PROVINCE OF RIMINI/PH. PARITANI

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to the Adriatic Riviera with a look at the region’s must-visit destinations, from the coolest designer boutiques to fabulous shoemakers. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team.

A GLIMPSE OF THE ADRIATIC RIVIERA Above: Rimini is known for its long, sandy beaches

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At Milan Fashion Week spring/ summer 2015, Max Mara revisited its archives and found a muse: Anjelica Huston. As a model in the 70s, Huston worked with many great photographers, and it was clear to see her infuence on this collection, as the statuesque models on the catwalk had long, lean silhouettes. In keeping with Max Mara’s aesthetic, the colours were largely neutral.

Blouses were worn tucked into midi skirts or under doublebreasted suit jackets. Knee-high boots and rain hats completed the look.

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

MAX MARA

Max Mara, Piazza Tre Martiri 48, 47921 Rimini, +39 0541 54325, maxmara.com

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ANTONIA Antonia has been one of Riccione’s leading fashion destinations since the 1970s, and its stylish edit of international designers such as Gucci, Saint Laurent and Lanvin will certainly prove hard to resist. Those after a complete look should also visit Antonia Più, the company’s footwear and accessories outpost on Viale Maria Ceccarini.

Place Of Interest

Antonia, Viale Dante 13-17, 47838 Riccione, +39 0541 692308, antoniaboutique.it * for map go to page 34

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36 | G U I D E

SHOE DISTRICT MARCHE REGION STORE DIRECTORY 1

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Civitanova Marche Naturino, Contrada San Domenico 24, 62012 Civitanova Marche, +39 0733 790901, naturino.com Cesare Paciotti, Via Giovanni Battista Pirelli 16, 62012 Civitanova Marche, +39 0733 790 6429, cesarepaciotti.it Santoni, Via Giorgio Sidney Sonnino 7-9, 62012 Civitanova Marche, +39 0733 815121, santonishoes.com Walk Safari, Via Luigi Einaudi 428, 62012 Civitanova Marche, +39 0733 781208, walksafari.com

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Sant’Elpidio a Mare Vittorio Virgili, Strada Provinciale Faleriense 3261, 63811 Sant’Elpidio a Mare, +39 0734 859434, vittoriovirgili.com Nando Muzi, Strada Provinciale Faleriense 2103, 4 63811 Sant’Elpidio a Mare, +39 0734 810234, nandomuzi.com

4 San Claudio Stanzione-trodica

Trodica

Villa San Filippo

Monte San Giusto Fabi, Via Bore Chienti 5, 62015 Monte San Giusto, +39 0733 839 2212, fabishoes.it featured on page 39

San Giuseppe

2 Monte San Giusto

*

3

4

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Monte San Pietrangeli Nero Giardini, Via dell’Artigianato 6, 63010 Monte San Pietrangeli, +39 0734 969422, nerogiardini.com Morrovalle Il Gergo, Via Gentile da Fabriano 66, 60120 Morrovalle, +39 0733 865149, ilgergo.com

Stazione Morrovalle

Macina San Pietro

Francavilla d’Ete

3 Monte San Pietrangeli

Porto Sant’Elpidio Boccaccini L’Autre Chose, Via Mare Egeo 9-13, 63821 Porto Sant’Elpidio, +39 0734 878011, lautrechose.com Rapagnano

Featured In This Issue

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Civitanova Alta

1 Civitanova Marche

Santa Maria Apparente Borgo Stazione

Zona Industriale

Zona Industriale Brancadoro

Fonte di Mare

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Sant’Elpidio a Mare

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Il Molino San Marco

La Luce Monte Urano

Lido de Fermo Zona Artigianale Cam

Capodarco

Campiglione Molini di Tenna Fermo

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FABI Family-run shoe business Fabi is rooted in Italian manufacturing tradition. It was established in 1965 by brothers Elisio and Enrico Fabi who, along with their wives Gina and Vilia, created their frst samples by hand in their mother’s dining room.

Nowadays, the brand is a global name, known for fusing tradition and technology to produce elegant footwear and accessories that get better with age. Visit the factory store at the Fabi headquarters in Monte San Giusto to buy the main collections at discounted prices. This stunning

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space is set over two foors, with themed areas to make shopping a breeze.

Fabi, Via Bore Chienti 5, 62015 Monte San Giusto, +39 0733 839 2212, fabishoes.it * for map go to page 36

40 | G U I D E

FIDENZA VILLAGE Fidenza Village, Via San Michele Campagna, 43036 Fidenza, +39 0524 33551, fdenzavillage.com, chicoutletshopping.com Opening times Monday-Sunday: 10am-8pm

HOW TO GET THERE

By Shopping Express® The Shopping Express® luxury coach service runs from central Milan (pickup point Largo Cairoli/ Via Cusani 18) to Fidenza Village daily.

Discover more than 100 boutiques from Italian and international brands, all ofering reductions of up to 70% on the recommended retail price.

GUEST SERVICES • • • • • • • •

Tax-free shopping Hands-free Shopping Luggage storage Worldwide delivery service Frequent Flyer programmes Valet parking Luxury transfer (to be pre-booked) Personal shoppers

By car Exit the A1 motorway at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore. Pass the toll booth and Fidenza Village is 100 metres on your left.

By train Fidenza station is on the direct line into Milano Centrale with frequent services and a journey time of around 60 minutes.

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HOSPITALITY • Tourist Information Centre • Restaurants and cafés • Gift Cards • Free Wi-Fi all around the Village • Chic Lounge: an exclusive reserved lounge area (for a minimum of 10 people, subject to availability)

41

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

2. Claim

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your Tax Free Forms stamped before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces..

Spend a minimum of €159.94 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Ofce Details Rimini Miramare, boarding area Bologna Borgo Panigale Travelex, Departures, 1st foor Travelex, next to Gate 15, 1st foor Travelex, Arrivals, ground foor

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

45 / 49

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McArthurGlen.it/Barberino Show this page at our Information Desk for an extra 10% off

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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 20: Into The Blue

Время денима

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

Верити Хоган рассказывает о новом витке интереса к дениму со стороны итальянских дизайнеров: в коллекциях сезона весна/лето 2015 джинсовые вещи, прежде характерные для уличного стиля, появились в подиумных коллекциях

Сезон весна/лето принес звездный час дениму. Обычно эта ткань ассоциируется с рабочей повседневной одеждой, однако в этот раз ее можно было увидеть на подиумах Миланской недели моды в самых разных моделях. Джинсы, платья, куртки, футболки – практичный материал globalblue.com

был задействован практически в каждой коллекции, в том числе – от самых могущественных модных домов Италии. Столь стремительный прорыв денима в высокую моду отражает два крупных тренда этого сезона – стиль 1970-х и нормкор.

70-е просто невозможно себе представить без джинсовой ткани, будь то брюки-клеш или куртка с меховым воротником. Нормкор появился из растущего интереса к удобной моде, и комфортные вещи из денима здесь как нельзя кстати. В 1950 годы джинсы стали символом подросткового бунта по всему миру. В Голливуде этот стиль олицетворяли Джеймс Дин, поклонник марки Lee, и Мэрилин Монро в одежде Levi’s. С тех пор деним стал неотъемлемой частью любого гардероба. В наши дни каждый год производится почти четыре миллиарда пар джинсов. В своей книге Denim Dudes Эми Левертон утверждает, что в каждый момент времени примерно 50% всего населения планеты надевает джинсы. История итальянского денима разнообразна: в Италии с ним работают не только многочисленные производители, но и роскошные бренды Armani Jeans, Miss Sixty и Diesel. Недавно также появились исследования, указывающие на непосредственную

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причастность этой страны к изобретению джинсовой ткани. Так, на картинах, которые датируются 1650-ми годами и, предположительно, были написаны на севере Италии, ученые обнаружили изображения людей в одежде из ранней версии этого материала. Даже само слово «джинс», по некоторым версиям, происходит от французского названия итальянского города Генуя – Gênes. Марка 2W2M считается одним из ведущих производителей денима в мире. êе часто хвалят за умение балансировать между актуальными трендами и традицией. В основе коллекции сезона весна/лето 2015 – тема художественной студии. «С самого начала компания 2W2M с особой страстью занималась денимом, - объясняет Алессандро Маркези, креативный директор этого бренда и владеющего им холдинга Compagnia del Denim. – Наше преимущество – в качественных тканях, идеальном крое и технологичности окрашивания». Провинцию Марке, где располагаются производственные машины компании, называют «джинсовой долиной». «Здесь находятся лаборатории и прачечные, которые могут усовершенствовать свойства тканей. Кроме того, они обеспечивают аутентичность, удобство и разнообразие, а сверх того - четко определенный и неповторимый стиль», - отмечает Маркези. С этой точки зрения, globalblue.com

компания вполне заслуженно гордится высочайшим качеством своей продукции. Этот модный год ознаменовался выходом денима из сферы исключительно повседневной одежды на подиумы. И это поистине стало событием! Так, Фрида Джанини в финальной коллекции для Gucci предложила интерпретацию джинсы в стиле милитари. Укороченная юбка-брюки появилась в комплекте с кожаными сапогами, двубортные жакеты были украшены строгими воротничками-стойками, а свободные платья-рубашки стянуты на руках и в декольте плотными лентами. Карл Лагерфельд в коллекции для Fendi продемонстрировал столь же авторский взгляд на деним, разработав объемные бриджи для верховой езды со шнуровкой на талии и молниями на лодыжках – мягкие и в то же время спортивные.

Roberto Cavalli и Bottega Veneta представили более расслабленную интерпретацию. Так, в новой коллекции Cavalli можно найти выбеленные до предела джинсы с аккуратными порезами: они особенно выигрышно смотрятся в сочетании с кремовой блузой в викторианском стиле и галстуком-бабочкой. Светлые джинсовые вставки на рукавах по-своему преобразили золотые футболки из парчи. Томас Майер создал для Bottega Veneta полностью джинсовый образ. В частности, в серию вошли самые

45

разные платья: расклешенные силуэты 1950-х отделаны пэчворком джинсовых оттенков, глубокими треугольными вырезами и асимметричными подолами. Деним использовался даже в костюмах, причем в центре внимания оказались элементы мужского кроя. У Dsquared2 можно найти самые актуальные и востребованные вещи этого сезона. В некоторых случаях ткань обрабатывалась настолько детально, что вещи больше напоминали спецодежду декораторов. Марка представила джинсы с низкой талией и огромными манжетами, а также укороченные жакеты в комплекте с яркими длинными юбками. Даже в великолепной испанской коллекции Dolce & Gabbana нашлось место для денима. Как и следовало ожидать, этот дизайнерский дуэт переосмыслил тренд сезона самым роскошным образом: свободные джинсы смотрятся особенно привлекательно за счет заниженной талии и тяжелой отделки кристаллами, перламутром и золотыми элементами. От выбеленного денима у Dsquared2 до костюмов в духе милитари у Gucci, - в этом сезоне каждый сможет подобрать джинсовый образ по своему вкусу. И нет даже намека на то, что тренд ослабеет в ближайшем будущем. Об этом особенно точно говорит Маркези: «Найти свои джинсы – это как полюбить человека.

Настоящий деним, как и настоящая любовь, становится только лучше со временем. С каждой стиркой он приобретает индивидуальность и шарм».

2w2m.it, gucci.com, fendi.com, robertocavalli.com, bottegaveneta.com, dsquared2.com, dolcegabbana.com 41: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €159.94 и

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сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. 美文翻译

20: Into The Blue 蓝色情迷

PHOTO: GUCCI

在 2 0 1 5 年 春 夏，意 大 利 牛 仔 品 牌 不 再 拘 泥 于 街 头 时 尚，傲 然 现 身 T 台之 上，Verity Hogan报道

在这个春夏，牛仔迎来了自己的时尚时 刻。这个曾经的工装基本款如今以各种 姿态现身于米兰时装周的秀场。从牛仔 裤到牛仔裙，牛仔大衣到牛仔T恤，几乎 每场秀中都可见到这种耐穿面料被大面 积运用，其中也包括那些意大利时装巨 头。 牛仔爆炸式地在高级时装界大行其 道，与本季两大潮流趋势息息相关：70年 代风格与简约中性风。想要捕捉70 年代 时尚的神髓，缺了牛仔可不行，无论是以 喇叭裤的形式呈现，还是打造成装饰羊 皮衣领的多功能外套。对于这种深受大 众喜爱的日常装束的广泛运用，也反应了 时尚正在朝着更为实穿的方向演进，也 就是normcore风格。 globalblue.com

意 大 利 时尚与牛 仔 的联系源 远 流 长，该国是众多牛仔品牌包括 A r man i Jeans、Miss Sixty与Diesel等顶级品牌 的故乡。最近发现的证据还指出，该国可 能对于牛仔的诞生也有一份功劳；在意 大利北部发现了被认为是1650 年代的画 作，其中描绘了人们穿着类似牛仔材质前 身的面料。 “Jean”这个词同样被认为是 来自Genoa的法语名：Gênes（基因）。 2 W 2 M 是 意大利 顶尖 牛 仔品牌 之 一，因其 在 创 新与 传 统 之 间 达 到完 美 平衡 而备受赞誉；品牌 2 015 年春夏系 列 以艺 术 家 工 作 室 为 灵 感 。“从一 开 ”品牌 始，2W2 M 就 对牛 仔满怀热 忱， 创意总监Alessandro Marchesi解释 道，他也是品牌母公司Compagnia del Denim 的首席执行官。 “我们独一无二 的特点是高品质的面料，完美契合的剪裁 与勇于创新的水洗手法。” 该公司以超高的工艺水平为傲，其总 部设在被称为“牛仔之乡”的马尔凯地区 “这里有能够提升牛仔 （Le Marche）。 织物所有特性的实验室与水洗工作坊， ” Marchesi 表示。 “这里还能赋予牛仔可 信、舒 适、多功能等 特 性，以及最 重要 的，独特且明晰的风格。” “牛 仔之乡”的另一 奢 华牛 仔品牌 Dondup总部位于Fossombrone。品牌 创始人 Massimo Berloni和Manuela Mariotti将随性和帅气注入 Dondup的 各个款式，从潮流的破洞、补丁牛仔裤到 经典的微喇牛仔裤。前往马尔凯地区的 游客还可以去位于Fossombrone 的Archivio Dondup精品店逛逛，您不仅可 以全面了解品牌故事，而且可以选购男女 装系列和限量款式。 除去牛仔的历史文化意义，2015年春 夏也是为数不多见证牛仔超越街头流行、 登上T 台大雅之堂的时刻。这一现象也 让人们印象深刻。在Frida Giannini 为 Gucci品牌打造的最后一个系列中，牛仔 被烙上了军装的印记。以七分裤裙搭配 硬朗皮靴；双排按钮夹克有着笔挺的衬 衣领口；松垮的衬衣裙在手臂与领口处以

47 白色宽鞋带随意收紧。 Karl Lagerfeld为Fendi打造的牛仔 系列同样精气神十足。设计师以招牌式 手法将此经典面料打造成腰部抽绳、脚 踝处装饰着拉链、极度懒散又不乏运动 风的的夸张马裤。 Roberto Cavalli与Bottega Veneta 营造的氛围则轻松许多。Cavalli 的做旧 牛仔被水洗到接近冰蓝色的浅色调，并 以精细斜裁的翻边牛仔裤搭配维多利亚 风格的奶油色蝴蝶结衬衣，同时撕破处 理的牛仔服袖管为内里透出的金色锦缎 T恤平添几分个性。Tomas Maier 则为 Bottega Veneta带来从头至脚的牛仔造 型。品牌奉上一系列风格迥异的牛仔连 衣裙；50 年代风格的A字裙装饰着错落 有致的异色牛仔布，另外几款裙装则带 有深 V领口与不对称下摆。牛仔甚至被运 用到西装设计中，其充满阳刚之气的剪 裁堪称一大亮点。 D s q u a r e d 2 则带来 本 季最为多变 的牛仔单品。面料被做旧成与油漆工的 连体服般灰白，架在跨上的低腰牛仔裤 有着夸张的翻边，充满戏剧感的大摆长 裙则配以利落短外套。即便是Dolce & Gabbana灵感来自西班牙的华丽系列， 也有牛仔的一席之地。设计师二人组对 潮流的解读一如既往地令人惊艳，他们 带来慵懒垂于臀部的宽松牛仔裤，上面 装饰着密密麻麻的水晶、珍珠与金色细 节。 从 D s q u a r e d 2 的做旧款 丹宁到 Gucci军队风正装设计，在这个春夏，人 人都可以找到适合自己的牛仔单品。 这 股风潮丝毫没有褪去的征兆。正如Marchesi所指出的， “爱上一条牛仔裤就像爱 上一个人。真正的牛仔，如同真爱一般会 随着时间推移而日益臻美；经过不断地 洗涤，牛仔会散发更多魅力甚至拥有灵 魂。” 2w2m.it, gucci.com, fendi.com, robertocavalli.com, bottegaveneta.com, dsquared2.com, dolcegabbana.com

41: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27 万多家商 店消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购 物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为 您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝 联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎 能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或 者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程： 1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税 表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form）。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市 的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖 章，然后再到环球蓝联退税点领取您的 退税款。 联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€159.94 即可节约高达购买价 格15.5%的金额。请注意：最终退款将包 含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。 部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取 现金退税手续费。 日本語翻訳

20: Into The Blue 青の世界へ

2015年春夏、イタリアンデニムはストリー トウェアの世界からキャットウォークへと 躍り出た。ヴェリティ・ホーガンが新たな デニムの魅力を発見した。 この春夏、デニムが旬だ。作業着の定番 であるこの素材が、ミラノ・ファッション ウィークのキャットウォークにありとあら

48 ゆる形で登場している。ジーンズからデ ニムのドレス、コート、Tシャツまで、この 耐久性のいい素材がほぼどのコレクショ ンでも目玉作品になっていた。イタリアの 大手ファッションメーカーもその例外で はない。 デニムがハイファッション界で急に もてはやされるようになったのは、今シ ーズンの二大トレンドと関係している。 「70年代」と「ノームコア（究極の普通） 」だ。70 年代の精神はフレアジーンズに してもシープスキンの襟がついた着回し のきくジャケットにしても、デニムなしに はとらえられない。そんな日常ファッショ ンにおなじみのデニムが広く採用された ことは、よりウェアラブルなファッション を求める動きの反映でもある。 「ノームコ ア」と呼ばれるスタイルだ。 イタリアとデニムの歴史は長い。この 国にはデニム製造業者が数多くあるだ けでなく、アルマーニジーンズ、ミスシッ クスティ、ディーゼルといったプレミアム ブランドもある。最近見つかった証拠に よれば、イタリアはデニム発祥の地では ないかとも言われている。1650 年代に北 イタリアで描かれたものといわれる絵画 の中の人物が、初期のデニムとおぼしき ものを着ているというのだ。 「ジーン」と いう言葉も、フランス語でジェノバをさす 「ジーン（Gênes）」から来ていると考え られている。 2W2Mはイタリア有数のデニムレー ベルで、革新と伝統の絶妙なバランスで 名高い。2015年春夏のコレクションはそ のアーティストのスタジオをイメージして いる。「2W2M は創設当時からデニム に情熱を注いできました」と説明するの は、同ブランドのクリエイティブディレク ターで親会社コンパニア・デル・デニムの CEOでもあるアレッサンドロ・マルケー ジだ。 「当ブランドならではの特徴は、高 品質な生地、完璧なフィット、革新的なウ ォッシュです。」 高度な職人の技を誇る同社は、 「ジ globalblue.com

ーンズバレー」として知られるマルケ州を 本拠とする。 「ここには、この生地の特徴 全てを際立たせる研究所や洗い場が複 数あります」とマルケージ。 「それらのお かげで、本物感、心地良さ、多様性を備 え、何よりもユニークで明確なスタイル が実現できるのです。」 フォッソンブローネを本 拠とする高 級デニムブランドのドンダップも、ジーン ズバレーを代表するレーベルだ。マッシ モ・ベルローニとマヌエラ・マリオッティ が創設したドンダップのコレクションは、 ダメージ加工からパッチワーク、古典的 なブーツカットまで幅広いスタイルを揃 え、カジュアル・クールを体現している。 マルケ州を訪れる人々にとって、フォッソ ンブローネにあるアルキヴィオ・ドンダッ プの店舗は、同ブランドが一目でわかる 場所。メンズとウィメンズの全商品ライン が揃い、限定版スタイルのセレクション も手に入る。 デニムはその歴史にかかわらず、これ まで何度かストリートウェアの世界を飛 び出してキャットウォークに躍り出ている が、2015年春夏もその再来が見られる。 しかも、今シーズンのデニムは相当なイ ンパクトを持っている。グッチではフリー ダ・ジャンニーニ最後のコレクションでミ リタリー風のデニムを披露。クロップドキ ュロットとタフなレザーブーツの取り合わ せや、シャキッとした襟が映えるダブル のボタンアップジャケット、袖とネックラ インを太い白の靴ひもで軽く締めたゆっ たりしたシャツドレスなどだ。 フェンディでカール・ラガーフェルド が見せたデニム使いも、実にスマートだ った。このデザイナーは指向性のアプロ ーチで、この昔ながらの生地を使って、ウ ェストを引き紐で締めた誇張したシルエ ットのジョッパーズやアンクルジップをデ ザインし、超だらりとしつつスポーティな 感覚を作り出した。 ロベルト・カヴァッリやボッテガ・ヴ ェネタのトーンは、はるかにリラックスし

49 た感じだった。カヴァッリのダメージ加工 デニムはブリーチをかけた明るく氷に近 い色合いで、微妙なスラッシュを入れ裾 を折り返したジーンズにヴィクトリア朝風 のクリーム色のプッシーボウのブラウスを 合わせる一方で、金のブロケードを施し たTシャツの袖にダメージ加工したデニ ムをパネル使いして今風を印象づけた。 ボッテガ・ヴェネタでは、トーマス・マイ ヤーが全身デニムで固めたルックスを繰 り出した。デニムのドレスは多様なスタイ ルで、色調の異なるパネルをパッチワー クにした50 年代風のAラインもあれば、 深いVネックで裾を非対称にしたものも あった。デニムはテーラリングにも登場し た。特に注目を集めたのは男性的なカッ トのスーツだ。 ディースクエアード( DSQUARED2) では、今シーズンぜひ欲しいデニム作品 をいくつか披露した。ペンキ屋のオーバ ーオールを思わせるほどダメージ加工し たジーンズは腰穿きして裾を大きく折り 返し、丈の短いデニムジャケットにはド ラマチックなフルマキシスカートを組み 合わせた。スペインに発想を得たドルチ ェ＆ガッバーナの贅沢なコレクションに さえ、デニムが見られた。このデザイナー ドュオのトレンド解釈はいかにも彼らら しいグラマラスなもので、横柄に腰穿き したゆったりめのジーンズはクリスタル や真珠、ゴールドのディテールで飾り立 てられていた。 ディースクエアードのダメージ加工デ ニムから、グッチのミリタリー風のテイラ ードまで、この春夏は誰でも自分に合っ たデニムが見つかる。しかもこのトレンド の勢いが萎える兆しはない。マルケージ いわく、 「一着のジーンズを愛用すること は、人に恋するのに似ています。本物の 恋のように、本物のデニムだけが時間を 経てますます良くなります。洗濯を重ね るにつれて魅力が増し、魂がこもってい くのです。」

2w2m.it, gucci.com, fendi.com, robertocavalli.com, bottegaveneta.com, dsquared2.com, dolcegabbana.com

41: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング 制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地 の有名ショッピング街にある27万軒を超 える加盟 店でのお買い物がお得になり ます。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバ ル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方も ぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。ま ず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。 星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グロー バル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あと は、次のステップを踏むだけです。

1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブ ルーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォー ム）を受け取ってください。 2.還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免 税書類にスタンプを押してもらってから、 グローバル・ブルーの還付事務所で払い 戻しを受けます。 お問い合わせ：

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €159.94以上のお買い物をすれば、購入 価格の最高15.5％の払い戻しが受けられ ます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値 税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引 いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承く ださい。一部の空港で現金での即時払い 戻しをご希望の場合は、取り扱い手数料 が免税書類ごとに課されます。

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