SHOP Austria AW15

AUSTRIA | АВСТРИЯ | 奥地利 |

AUSTRIA Style Edition Autumn/Winter 2015/16

Page 26 ON THE UP: Austria’s new generation of designers is scaling the heights

‫النمسا‬

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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Германия Gothenburg Hamburg

Welcome to Austria

Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Malaysia Milan Munich Nuremburg Oslo Paris 巴黎

Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna

Emma Cheevers

Vilnius

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Discover the best of this scenic country with SHOP. Read about its exciting array of up-and-coming fashion stars on page 26, as well as its most interesting concept stores and much more.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15% when shopping in Austria. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Austria. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

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ILLUSTRATION: PIETARI POSTI

CONTRIBUTORS

Sally McIlhone As SHOP’s managing editor, and acting features editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so that she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally has also contributed to ShortList, Stylist and Total Film online.

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Pietari Posti Pietari Posti created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Austria.

His exquisite artwork has previously been commissioned by American Express, Random House, the New York Times, the Guardian and British Airways, among others, and he is also a long-time contributor to SHOP. His elegantly quirky style makes him a perfect illustrator for this cover, inspired by our feature about the new generation of Austrian designers on page 26.

It shows a woman wearing a dress that has become part of one of the country’s mountain ranges.

Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Ginger Rose Clark Editor and fashion journalist Ginger Rose Clark studied English Literature at the University of Glasgow before going on to do an MA in Fashion Journalism at the London College of Fashion. Besides writing for a number of publications, she also works as a fashion stylist.

SORELLE

RAMONDA

Internationale Designer-Mode im TOP SHOP-IM-SHOP

Kollektionen führender, internationaler Designer für die ganze Familie.

High quality fashion for women, men and children. мода ведущих интернациональных дезайнеров для вей семьи.

Wöllersdorf

bei Wiener Neustadt auf über 11.000m2 A- 2752 Wöllersdorf Römerstraße 3-9 Tel. +43 (0)2622 - 42 444

Sattledt

auf über 6.000m2 A- 4642 Sattledt Welser Straße 10-12 Tel. +43 (0)7244 - 8383

www.sorelleramonda.at

GRAZ

auf über 5.000m2 8054 Graz Center West Weblinger Gürtel 25 Tel. +43 (0)316 - 297 000

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor/ acting features editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Pietari Posti Contributors Ginger Rose Clark, Maria Kirchen-Hill Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Production assistant Katie Muxworthy City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/ deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Charlotte Rogers Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Tom Knight

Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Online production assistant Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Aiyang Zou Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

G L O B A L B L U E AU S T R I A Head of commercial Austria Jiří Macas Marketing sales manager Danielle Willert Marketing executive Daniela Puntschart-Infeld Retail service manager Hermann Danzmayr Key account managers Ursula Bergsleithner, Felix Camondo, Petra Singer Account managers Mario Kronsteiner, Wolfgang Gutbrunner, Thomas Schnötzinger, Christian Seelos, Ulrich Tegelhofer Global Blue Austria, Zetschegasse 17, A-1230 Vienna, +43 (0)1 798 4400, info.austria@globalblue.com

Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak Commercial artworking intern Kiranjeet Kaur AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Production assistant Sammy Ha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution and partnerships manager Lara Osuna

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication.

Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

IN STORE NOW

COME AND SEE OUR AUTUMN/WINTER COLLECTION

ecco.com

ECCO Store Vienna · Kärntner Straße 47 1010 Vienna · +43 1 512 2962

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CONTENTS

PHOTO: KRAUSE, JOHANSEN

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P RO D U C T S 14 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Austria this season 16 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N EWS 20 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Austria 22 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F E AT U R E S 26 Cover Story: Blazing A Trail A new generation of forwardlooking Austrian designers is helping to put the country in the fashion spotlight. Sally McIlhone discovers more 32 In Focus: Swarovski For 120 years, Austria’s celebrated crystal maker has been a byword for innovation and glamour. Ginger Rose Clark explores the reasons for its success Above: Swarovski Kristallwelten in Watens

E X PE R I E NCE 38 Table Talk Eating out in Austria means memorable settings as well as superb food, says Theresa Harold 42 Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels GU I DE 47 Maps and guides to Austria’s top shops and destinations ESSENTIA LS 79 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S

80 Русский Перевод 87 美文翻译 97 SOU V E N I R 98 The essential item to bring home

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CHECK OUT

FINISHING TOUCH These fower-like rose gold earrings from Viennese jeweller N13 will defnitely update your style this season. Described as ‘ear jackets’, they consist of simple studs with ornate back pieces which extend to frame the ear from behind, ofering more or less to the eye as they are glimpsed from diferent angles.

Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 79

N13 knows that accessories can give an eclectic and unique touch to your appearance, and its store in Ringstrassen-Galerien has a variety of options depending on what look you’re going for. Pay a visit to browse rings, earrings and other jewellery pieces inspired by the latest trends in street style and catwalk fashion. fm N13 ear jackets, €119, N13, Ringstrassen-Galerien, Kärntner Ring 9-13, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 907 6737, n13.at

Vösendorf, SCS, Eingang 3 Wien 2, Stadion Center, Olympiaplatz 2 Wien 3, Galleria, Landstraßer Hauptstr. 99 Wien 7, Mariahilfer Str. 96-98 Wien 10, Erlachgasse 92 b Wien 11, Zentrum Simmering Simmeringer Hauptstr. 100 Wien 12, Meidlinger Hauptstr. 57-59 Wien 14, Auhof Center Albert-Schweitzergasse 6

Wien 15, Lugner City, Gablenzgasse 5 Wien 21, FMZ C21 Consio Prager Straße 286 Wien 21, Seyringer Straße 12-14 Wien 22, Donauzentrum, Donaustadtstr. 1, Top 52 Wien 22, Gewerbepark Stadlau Gewerbeparkstr. ON 10 Wien 23, Riverside, Breitenfurter Str. 372

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MIX IT UP Make your look unique by creating unusual combinations

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1. Airfeld Kos jacket, €549, Airfeld, Kärntner Strasse 51, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)7662 317 5652, airfeld.at

3. Bulgari watch, €12,500, Koppenwallner, Alter Markt 7, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 842617, bulgari.com

2. Coccinelle gloves, €89, Frechinger, Maria-Theresien-Strasse 22, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 582921, coccinelle.com

4. Chanel Chance eau de parfum, 100ml, €149.90, Douglas, DEZ, Amraser-See-Strasse 56, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 391109, chanel.com

Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 79

PHOTOS: (2) ICPHOTOGRAPHIE MILANO; (3) GEOFFROY BAUD; (4) JACQUES GIRAL; (7) PIXELATE IMAGING

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5. Louis Vuitton cuf, €750, Louis Vuitton, Getreidegasse 45, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 841796, louisvuitton.com

7. MiH Jeans skirt, €455, Schneeweiss, Wollzeile 20, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 916 6416, mih-jeans.com

6. Salvatore Ferragamo shoes, €650, Salvatore Ferragamo, Kohlmarkt 7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 2814, ferragamo.com

8. Boss Bespoke bag, €895, Boss, Kärntner Strasse 20, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 1161, hugoboss.com

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CASUAL MAN

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Be stylish, even on your days of, with a leather backpack and a silk scarf 1

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1. Hermès scarf, €485, Hermès, Graben 22, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 5656, hermes.com 2. Dolce & Gabbana backpack, €995, Dolce & Gabbana, Kohlmarkt 8-10, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 3000, dolcegabbana.com 3. Z Zegna coat, from €769, Peek & Cloppenburg, Kärntner Strasse 29, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 8904 8880, zegna.com

Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 79

4. 7 For All Mankind jeans, €280, 7 For All Mankind, Seitzergasse 3, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 7796, 7forallmankind.com

PHOTOS: (1) © HERMÈS/VICENTE SAHUC; (3) CARLO BEVILACQUA

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WIEN · SALZBURG · VELDEN · GRAZ · LINZ · WELS KLAGENFURT · VILLACH · SPITTAL · RIED · ST. PÖLTEN KREMS · INNSBRUCK · WÖRGL · TELFS · BREGENZ BÜRS · ZELL AM SEE · OUTLET PARNDORF

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SHOP WINDOW

PRADA MAKES HISTORY Prada’s new store in Salzburg, its frst in the city, occupies an imaginatively restored 14thcentury building in the historic Alter Markt. The design, from architect Roberto Baciocchi – a Prada favourite – blends old and new to stunning efect. Modern elements, including the sleek steel-and-glass display cabinets, Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 79

provide a stylish counterpoint to existing features such as the elegant wooden staircase and vaulted ceilings. The boutique, which covers an area of 250 square metres over two foors, stocks women’s ready-to-wear, footwear and accessories, along with leather goods and accessories for men, and is a must-visit in Salzburg. km Prada, Alter Markt 13-14, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 848295, prada.com * for map go to page 65

PHOTO: CROCE&WIR

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PASSION FOR PERFECTION Fine jewellery and watch specialist Schullin has been a name to know in Graz since 1802, thanks to its focus on quality, innovative techniques and designs, and exceptional craftsmanship.

The family-owned frm, now run by award-winning designer Hans Schullin and his children, ofers its own impeccably made jewellery collections for men and women, which are well worth exploring.

Look out, too, for luxury watches

by Rolex, of which it was the frst licensee in Austria. In the unlikely event that nothing on display appeals, it is also possible to commission a bespoke piece of jewellery for a truly unique souvenir of Graz. fm Schullin, Herrengasse 3, 8010 Graz, +43 (0)316 813 0000, schullin.at * for map go to page 70 Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 79

NATURAL

BEAUTY Located in the centre of Innsbruck, Resort concept store is one of the city’s most intriguing retail spaces. Founded by Daniel Matt, who has previously worked as a designer and a stylist, the boutique is divided into areas that Matt describes as ‘theme parks’.

A truly stylish space, Resort ofers a wide range of cosmetics, yet the

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PHOTO: (RIGHT) MATTHIAS HOFFMANN

PHOTO: MARTIN VANDORY

WELLTRAVELLED WEMPE

store is also dotted with vintage furniture and luxurious home accessories, from handmade tableware to antique-style candles.

Beauty enthusiasts should be sure to speak to staf about the amazing range of natural products available, from both well-loved names and unknown but excellent brands. mkh Resort, Erlerstrasse 10, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 567232, resort-innsbruck.com * for map go to page 76 globalblue.com

Inspired by some of the favourite destinations of Wempe’s creative director Catherine Plouchard, the Cosmora rings from the By Kim range are some of the brand’s most artistic pieces to date. Plouchard and Kim-Eva Wempe – the two women at the helm of this historic company – are frm believers in jewellery that fts into a woman’s life, that is luxurious and beautiful yet made to be worn. In line with this philosophy, the three new rings in this collection, Cape Town, Tokyo and Route 66, are exquisite pieces that can be worn every day. Crafted from 18-carat white gold and set with diamonds, the rings are engraved with fuid lines to represent the natures of the diferent places that inspired them. hl Wempe, Kärntner Strasse 41, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 3322, wempe.com * for map go to page 52

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PARK LIFE Cutting-edge Vienna concept store Park is now in its second decade, but remains as fresh and inspiring as the day it opened. A haven for fans of contemporary design, it stocks an impeccably curated selection of pieces from brands such as Acne Studios, Haider Ackermann and Ann Demeulemeester. As well as ready-to-wear, there is also a wide selection of jewellery, shoes, accessories, art books and magazines. The store holds regular fashion shows, art installations and exhibitions, so be sure to check the website for the latest events before you visit. th Park, Mondscheingasse 20, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 526 4414, park.co.at * for map go to page 56

SAY IT WITH DIAMONDS Inspired by the style of the 1920s, Bucherer presents its latest collection of fne jewellery, Vive Elle. The art deco-infuenced range comprises around 20 pieces, including earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings. Featuring exquisite materials such as white gold, platinum and diamonds, the collection fuses Bucherer’s heritage of excellence in craftsmanship with the zest for life that characterised the Roaring Twenties. This Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 79

delicate bracelet cleverly refects the collection’s central design element: a stylised fgure eight. Reminiscent of the symbol for eternity, it is derived from the company’s founding date of 1888. hl Bucherer, Kärntner Strasse 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 6730, bucherer.com * for map go to page 52

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WORD ON THE STREET Located in Vienna’s vibrant seventh district, Arnold’s stocks an extensive range of premium urban brands. Owner Jakub Arnold, who was previously a managing director at Carhartt, has built on his personal passion for streetwear to create an exciting retail destination.

The store, which covers 100 square metres, was previously a tailor’s shop and clothier; the original shop front, along with old signs, sewing machines and a clothes horse, have been retained and provide a stylish contrast to the minimalism of the rest of the décor. International brand highlights include Wood Wood, Happy Socks and Edwin. th Arnold’s, Siebensterngasse 52, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 923 1316, arnolds.at * for map go to page 56

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BLAZING

PHOTO: ISABELLA ABEL

Austria’s new designers are determined, confdent and producing exciting collections.

Sally McIlhone discovers more

A TRAIL

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ustria is known for its stunning landscapes and rich cultural history – and now, increasingly, as a destination to watch when it comes to fashion. Last year’s Métiers d’Art Paris-Salzburg Chanel show saw the likes of Pharrell Williams and Cara Delevingne descend upon the birthplace of Mozart, and countless column inches around the world have been devoted to Vienna-based Polaire’s 3D-printed shoes.

The country’s next generation of designers is ambitious and driven, aware that to be heard among the fashion chorus they must strike a powerful chord.

Romana Zöchling of Ferrari Zöchling is one such designer.

‘After graduating from university I soon discovered that if I wanted to make a living in the clothing industry, my options would be, a) to leave Austria, or b) to become a entrepreneur and work 24/7, saying bye-bye to a steady income, vacations, free time and sleep,’ she admits. ‘The choice was easy.

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The label was established in 2013 in Vienna.’

This desire to chase one’s dreams at any cost is one shared by many of Zöchling’s contemporaries, with brands and designers working together to achieve success. ‘Since day one of Ferrari Zöchling I’ve collaborated with other Viennese artists, who also happened to be close friends, and used pieces of their art for prints,’ she explains. ‘My social environment has always inspired me to create fashion.’

Ferrari Zöchling’s latest collection ofers beautifully draped dresses, slouchy tailoring and androgynous printed sweatshirts, showing of Zöchling’s varied set of construction skills, something that harks back to her childhood.

‘My earliest memories are of my mother sewing at night and me falling asleep to that familiar sound of the sewing machine,’ Zöchling says. ‘That I’ve become a fashion designer has its origins in my love of the craft itself.’

When it comes to the future,

Previous page: Roee autumn/winter 2015/16

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Zöchling is keen to showcase her brand to an international audience. ‘I have established an online shop,’ she says. ‘Somebody is wearing my shorts in Barbados, which is awesome. I defnitely want to show my pieces in diferent countries in the near future. One goal in particular is to show my collection at an Asian fashion week because I’m fascinated by that part of the world.’

Vienna-based Alila is another distinctive Austrian brand, specialising in upmarket, upcycled clothing created using mainly vintage Japanese kimono silks.

‘I started Alila in 2008, based on my passion for textile art and travelling,’ says designer Barbara Lindner. ‘I was constantly buying beautiful fabrics, so I decided to create a small collection of accessories and sell it. It was a success, which gave me the

Above (from lef): Romana Zöchling; a Ferrari Zöchling art print; and one of the brand’s draped dresses

PHOTO: CHIARA KRONSTEINER

PHOTO: ISABELLA ABEL

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Above (clockwise from top lef): Alila bracelets and necklaces; Roee autumn/winter 2015/16; the brand’s founders, Rene Pomberger and Michael Mairhofer

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confdence to start my label. Then I discovered Japanese vintage garments and fell in love instantly with the beautiful textiles – which are now the base materials for my collection.’

Sustainability is a large part of the brand’s focus and Lindner is understandably passionate about this aspect of her enterprise. ‘I love to reuse precious fabrics and give

Austria’s next generation of designers is aware that to be heard among the fashion chorus they must strike a powerful chord them a new life as contemporary fashion. Working in a sustainable way is natural to me. It is not only about the reuse of vintage or sustainable fabric, but also about local and fair production, lasting quality and timeless styles that will last many seasons.’ Owing to the nature of upcycling, Alila’s collections aren’t produced according to fashion seasons; they are trans-seasonal investment pieces designed to outlive temporary trends.

For Lindner, the draw of international catwalks is not so appealing. ‘As I am producing one-of-a-kinds on a small

scale with vintage material, I prefer staying more local and independent.’ This more direct way of meeting potential customers has not hampered Alila’s success. ‘Recently a woman from New York, who saw my collection on her last visit to Vienna, contacted me to order a dress for her wedding,’ Lindner explains. ‘I also travel with the collection, selling in other European countries including Germany and Switzerland.

Currently I am working on increasing the network of shops and outlets that sell my collection, not only in Austria but further afeld.’

Roee is another Austrian brand with its sights set on world domination. Its latest collection contains functional coat-dresses and is inspired by Terry Gilliam’s dystopian fantasy flm Brazil.

Designer Rene Pomberger doesn’t believe that the label’s Austrian roots will hinder its success.

‘In the globalised world it is difcult to start from anywhere, but the internet makes it much simpler to cross borders,’ Pomberger explains.

‘The Austrian fashion scene is growing and growing.’ In the face of this expansion, Austria’s designers remain confdent.

Pomberger continues, ‘Our plans are to strengthen the brand and, in few years, when our name is renowned, we will go to the big fashion weeks…’ ferrarizoechling.com, alila.at, roee.cc

SWAROVSKI

PHOTO: KRAUSE, JOHANSEN

IN FOCUS:

For 120 years, Austria’s most celebrated name in crystal making has been a byword for innovation and glamour. Ginger Rose Clark looks at the reasons for its sparkling success

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PHOTO: JENNIFER GRAYLOCK-GRAYLOCK.COM

udrey Hepburn’s tiara in Breakfast at Tifany’s, Michael Jackson’s 1984 Victory Tour glove, the bejewelled sheer dress that Rihanna wore in 2014 to the Council of Fashion Designers of America awards: these iconic pieces are just a small part of the legacy of world-famous Austrian brand Swarovski, which celebrates its 120th anniversary in 2015.

To really understand Swarovski, however, you need to go back to the late 19th century and the province of Bohemia, which was then a hub of the glassmaking industry. Daniel Swarovski grew up surrounded by crystal glass, but it was his trip to the Vienna International Electric Exhibition in 1883, at the age of 21, that really fuelled his imagination and would be the catalyst for events that would change the industry for ever.

Inspired by his visit, and after much research, Swarovski came up with a machine that could cut and polish crystals, replacing the laborious hand processes that had been customary until then. Filled with ambition, and armed with a patent, the young man left Bohemia for Wattens, a market town high in the Austrian Alps which had the resources, particularly water power, he needed to develop his product further. It was here that he founded Swarovski in 1895.

Year on year, the company kept on growing. Another milestone came in 1913 when Swarovski Previous page: Swarovski Kristallwelten Above (from top): Rihanna in a crystal-encrusted dress; founder Daniel Swarovski

started producing its own crystals.

The fawless creations caused a stir, and attracted the attention of people well beyond the borders of Austria. Six years later, there was another signifcant development: the founding of Tyrolit, a branch of the Swarovski group that produces grinding, sawing, drilling and dressing machinery, which continues to be a market leader in Europe. Tyrolit was followed by Swarovski Optik (precision optical equipment such as binoculars) in 1949 and Swarovski Lighting in 1966. And, of course, the 1970s gave birth to

PHOTO: CATWALKING.COM

PHOTO: MICHEL DUFOUR/WIREIMAGE

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the crystal fgurines for which the company has become so famous.

Swarovski’s relationship with fashion was fostered early on in the company’s history, notably through close and mutually enriching ties with Elsa Schiaparelli, Coco Chanel and later Christian Dior. More recently, after an introduction in 1999 by Isabella Blow, Alexander McQueen became the designer who really helped to introduce Swarovski to a new, younger generation with, for example, his acclaimed autumn/winter 2006/07 Widows of Culloden collection.

Above (from lef): Alexander McQueen collaborated with Swarovski for his autumn/winter 2006/07 Widows of Culloden collection; Hussein Chalayan autumn/winter 2010/11 for Swarovski Collective

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Swarovski has become the ubiquitous force that has revolutionised the jewellery industry, and so much more push boundaries.

Despite its passion for looking forward, the brand still takes its heritage seriously. Swarovski remains a family business: Nadja Swarovski is the great-great-

Above (from lef): a 1941 Schiaparelli jacket embellished with Swarovski crystals; chandeliers by Vincent Van Duysen and Zaha Hadid for Swarovski ‘s Crystal Palace project

PHOTO: OLIVIER SAILLANT

The Swarovski Collective, also set up in 1999, was a direct result of the collaboration with McQueen; in the 15 or so years since it was founded, collections from more than 150 established or less wellknown brands have followed.

Fashion aside, the company has also been instrumental in supporting innovation in the world of interior design. For Swarovski’s Crystal Palace project, for example, designers such as Zaha Hadid, Ron Arad and Tord Boontje have been invited to deconstruct and reinvent the traditional chandelier.

With initiatives such as these, Swarovski is constantly seeking to

PHOTO: LEO TORRI

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granddaughter of the founder and, along with four other ffthgeneration family members, sits on the executive board. Swarovski hasn’t forgotten its geographical roots either: it still produces crystals in Wattens where, 20 years ago, the brand also unveiled its Swarovski Kristallwelten (‘crystal worlds’) museum to coincide with its centenary celebrations. It gives visitors an insight into the world of crystals, with exhibits created by artists and designers such as Salvador Dalí and Niki de Saint Phalle, reafrming Swarovski’s ties with design, art and fashion.

Swarovski is involved

with a host of other projects, from charitable work through the Swarovski Foundation to sponsoring events such as Design Miami. From a small family business, Swarovski has become the ubiquitous force that has revolutionised the jewellery industry, and so much more. Its infuence reaches right into the world of fashion, art, design and architecture. Although crystals are a heritage product, Swarovski is just as relevant and innovative today as it was when Daniel Swarovski turned the industry on its head in order to create ‘a diamond for everyone’ swarovski.com

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TABLE TALK From private dining in a grand apartment to a meal with a panoramic view, Austria’s restaurants aren’t short on showmanship, as Theresa Harold discovers

While Vienna may be known for dishes such as Wiener schnitzel and Sachertorte, Austria’s regions also have their own culinary specialities that are well worth sampling. For example, when visiting Innsbruck, be sure to try the Tyrolean bacon, which is especially delicious fried with potato and eggs. In Salzburg, sample the Kasnocken (cheese dumplings), which are usually served in soup or with sauerkraut. globalblue.com

Of course, choosing where to eat is just as important as what to eat. A refned ambience can make the diference between an unforgettable evening and a merely satisfactory one. In recent years, Austria’s dining scene has evolved into an exciting, modern afair. Here, we’ve rounded up a list of dining options that ofer more than just good food, whether that means a memorable setting or innovative presentation.

PHOTO: PATRICK LANGWALLNER

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M32 Located on top of the Mรถnchsberg next to the modern art museum, M32 ofers visitors breathtaking panoramic vistas across Salzburg.

The interior is as eye-catching as the view; designed by Matteo Thun, it features a ceiling display made from 390 stag antlers, as well as bullseye lights, bare concrete and vivid colours.

The lunch and dinner menus, which provide a contemporary take on traditional Austrian and Mediterranean cuisine, change slightly every day to make the most of seasonal ingredients; or visit earlier in the day for a memorable breakfast.

M32, Mรถnchsberg 32, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 841000, m32.at

PHOTO: GÜNTER RICHARD WETT

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LICHTBLICK Located on the seventh foor of Innsbruck’s Rathausgalerie, the elegantly designed Lichtblick restaurant makes the most of its position with foor-to-ceiling windows ensuring 360-degree views. Visitors will be impressed by chef Andreas Zeindlinger’s inventive dishes such as pollock globalblue.com

with spicy cous cous and lime foam, or Austrian classics such as roast veal with Styrian horseradish.

Whether you choose to eat in the restaurant or simply have a drink in the adjacent bar, the mountains make a stunning backdrop.

Lichtblick, Maria-Theresienstrasse 18, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 566550, restaurant-lichtblick.at

S H O P | 41

MEZZANIN 7

PHOTO: HELGE KIRCHBERGER PHOTOGRAPHY

If you’re looking for something a little diferent, try Mezzanin 7 private supper club. Located in a beautifully decorated apartment, it ofers a private dining experience like no other in Vienna. Available as a brunch, lunch, afternoon tea

or dinner, the vintage menu draws from family recipe books. The team behind the concept comes from a mix of fashion, tourism and hospitality backgrounds, which is refected in the eclectic interiors and fun, nostalgic vibe.

Mezzanin 7, Liechtensteinstrasse 12, 1090 Vienna, mezzanin7.at

CARPE DIEM This hotspot in Salzburg’s historic centre is a restaurant, bar, lounge and terrace café in one. One of the best known aspects of this popular place is the delicious bite-sized gourmet food served in handmade wafe cones. This novel presentation allows diners to try a wider range of dishes than

usual. From starters to desserts, guests can graze on anything from beef tartare with potato purée and cress or sea bass with Jerusalem artichoke to sweet treats such as vanilla cream, pear and lychee or plum, pistachio and chocolate.

Carpe Diem, Getreidegasse 50, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 848800, carpediemfinestfingerfood.com

42 | E X P E R I E N C E

STAY IN STYLE The world’s fnest hotels boast desirable locations, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best

STOKE PLACE Located less than an hour away from London, Stoke Place is the perfect countryside escape. A 17th-century manor house set in 26 acres of parkland, the hotel ofers six diferent room types, each featuring a surprisingly modern décor that manages to enhance rather than clash with the historic surroundings. globalblue.com

Work up an appetite by taking a walk around the lake and parkland before visiting the hotel’s acclaimed restaurant, Seasons, which ofers a menu of seasonal British cuisine featuring homegrown ingredients.

Stoke Place, Stoke Poges, Buckinghamshire SL2 4HT, +44 (0)1753 534790, stokeplace.co.uk

PHOTO: JAMES STOKES

E X P E R I E N C E | 43

THE DOMINICAN Situated on the site of a former 15th-century abbey in the heart of Brussels, the Dominican is one of the city’s most style-conscious hotels. Once home to neoclassical painter Jacques-Louis David, the hotel combines historic charm with modern elegance. Expect calming

décor based on rich colours and luxury fabrics throughout, while each of the bedrooms features amenities that include Nespresso cofee machines, rain showers and plasma televisions. Be sure to visit the spa with its Finnish sauna and Turkish steam room.

The Dominican, 9 rue Léopold, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 203 0808, thedominican.be

PHOTO: ELAN FLEISHER/MARRIOTT HOTELS/MARRIOTT INTERNATIONAL

44 | E X P E R I E N C E

JW MARRIOTT VENICE RESORT & SPA Located on its own private island across the lagoon from Piazza San Marco, the newly opened JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa is one of the city’s most romantic hotels, with its own church for private wedding ceremonies.

Each room features large picture windows that make the most of globalblue.com

the views, while the rooftop pool is the perfect place to relax. Be sure to visit one of the resort’s four restaurants and bars; options range from a casual pool bar and grill to a formal dining room serving innovative Veneto cuisine, while aspiring chefs can train at the onsite Sapori Cooking Academy.

JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa, Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco, 30133 Venice, +39 041 296 8111, marriott.co.uk

E X P E R I E N C E | 45

THE PATINA, CAPITOL SINGAPORE The newly opened Patina hotel in the heart of Singapore’s civic and cultural district ofers 157 rooms and suites shared between two of the city’s most signifcant historical buildings. Its two wings, the Capitol and the Stamford, combine features such as high ceilings with a host of modern

technology and a level of service that is sure to impress. The hotel’s Eru restaurant serves an unusual menu of Peruvian and Japanese fusion cuisine, while the ftness and wellness centre contains the frst saltwater relaxation pool in Singapore.

The Patina, Capitol Singapore, 15 Stamford Road, Singapore, +65 6368 8888, patinahotels.com

G U I D E | 47

GUIDE

PHOTO: © KREITNER & PARTNER

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Austria with a look at the country’s mustvisit destinations, from festive seasonal markets to an atmospheric fortress. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/austria.

A GLIMPSE OF AUSTRIA Above: the atmospheric Christmas market on Vienna’s Rathausplatz

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22 Park Find the latest fashions from hip designers such as Haider Ackermann at Vienna’s trendy Park concept store.

Park, Mondscheingasse 20, 1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 526 4414, park.co.at featured on page 24

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Julius Meinl, Graben 19, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 3334, ambroso.at featured on page 98

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44 Swarovski Revel in all that glitters at Swarovski’s Vienna flagship store.

Swarovski, Kärntner Strasse 24, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 324 0000, swarovski.com featured on page 32

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MOMENTS OF WONDER OPEN DAILY FROM 8.00 AM TO 7.30 PM Herzog-Friedrich-Straße 39 6020 Innsbruck, Austria www.swarovski.com/innsbruck

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Kohlmarkt, Naglergasse, Wallnerstrasse, Habsburgergasse & Kärntner Strasse ●

CA VA LL M I IU EG M NA IU VA A V E ● E T LE N R GL N O E N BE ER T I TA ● NO ● AU GA BR HL ● ● JOSEPH ● S S ● PRADA UC AN AM T E DS IC IS TÄ ● BRÜHL & SÖHNE M ● CHANEL TT EN BLACK DIAMOND ● ● COLLI AS E T ● ELLA VIENNA BRÜHL ● S K E ● LOUIS VUITTON BURBERRY ● AR THOMAS SABO ● M BREGUET ● N ER JA DOLCE & GABBANA ● ● AKRIS ● SO ● C M ● B A IR GO ● G R RT DIOR ● GO ● J. IO EIT IER LD TT ● CH B E RG LIN SC ST ● D A R IO G TIFFANY & CO. ● ’A N G A ● R. F HM DIESEL ● GR ● G OG MB EL ER RM BU A IE ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ● ● S U A R A D ● L E C H CCI L O S N CH I BE GA ● SA K U L IO TOMMY HILFIGER ● H N ● C I L AN SS ● H H LV F F I N P.60 CHOPARD ● DL E ● M Ä E G AT UN ● M O NM M I N I O R OPTIK PILWEIN ● P A E G ANTIK JUWELEN ● ● RIO ● FRE SS CL ERL FE E C ● R LORO PIANA ● R Y T IM R E RR ON IT ● S U OZ O SCHULLIN ● A ● IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Y AG CE ● A E G D FREY WILLE ● AM & UT PT H D N SA T B T ● O O NA NA & F NESPRESSO ● ● GERRY WEBER ST O ● G EU S EU G M ISC ERN I OR IC H ● STEFANEL LO N O L A E H A M DT DE TL F S CECCONI ● EL EIS N EM PL EN PE TE ● SCHEER ● OMEGA AN TK R ● WMF KL OV P.24 JUWELIER BUCHERER ● ● HUMANIC

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BALLY The latest womenswear collection from Swiss brand Bally is bold and colourful and takes inspiration from the flms of director Wes Anderson as well as the style of the 1960s.

Anderson is known for his larger-than-life characters, and the collection is a nod to his unique leading ladies. The pieces are carefully considered yet made to be worn with nonchalance. Contrasting colours and textures abound on A-line silhouettes, bringing retro references bang up to date. Combined with Bally’s classic accessories, including the timeless Corner bag, this is one of the strongest collections of the season. hl

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Bally, Graben 12, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 513 0550, bally.com

ST STEPHEN’S CATHEDRAL Stephansplatz

A first-class shopping experience at attractive prices.

Discover international brands and regional highlights in our Heinemann Duty Free shops at Vienna, Graz, Linz and Salzburg Airports.

You can look forward to browsing elegant fragrances, high-quality cosmetics, exquisite spirits, fine food, regional specialities and you can even save up to 30 % with our Special Offers!

Visit us online at heinemann-dutyfree.com

Scan and discover first-class offers.

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Department Store

Bischofshofen, EKZ Karo Bahnhofstr. 4 Eugendorf, FMZ, Rรถmerstr. 4 Salzburg, Europark, Europastr. 1

Salzburg, Rainerstr. 23 St. Johann/Pongau, Stadtgalerie Hans Kappacher Str. 1

48/72 Stunden U-Bahn, Tram & Bus mit mehr als 210 Ermäßigungen 48/72 hours subway, tram & bus and more than 210 discounts

48 h € 18,90

72 h

€ 21,90

Erhältlich

Available from

■ in Ihrem Hotel

■ your hotel

■ in den Tourist-Infos:

■ the tourist information offices

1., Albertinaplatz, tgl. 9–19 Uhr, 10., Hauptbahnhof Wien, tgl. 9–17 Uhr, Flughafen Wien, tgl. 7–22 Uhr ■ in den Vorverkaufsstellen der Wiener Linien (z.B. Stephansplatz, Karlsplatz, Westbahnhof, Landstrasse/Wien Mitte) ■ im Onlineshop, App Wiener Linien ■ in Reisebüros ■ www.wienkarte.at

Albertinaplatz, 1st district, daily 9 a.m. – 7 p.m., Main Station, 10th district, daily 9 a.m. – 5 p.m., Vienna Airport, daily 7 a.m. – 10 p.m.

■ Wiener Linien sales counters (e.g. Stephansplatz, Karlsplatz, Westbahnhof, Landstrasse / Wien Mitte) ■ the Onlineshop, App Wiener Linien ■ travel agencies ■ www.wienkarte.at

WWW.VIENNA.INFO

©WTV/PETER RIGAUD

©KUNSTHISTORISCHES MUSEUM, WIEN

Genießen Sie Wien à la carte – und erkunden Sie die Stadt 48 oder 72 Stunden lang mit U-Bahn, Tram und Bus. Mehr als 210 Ermäßigungen locken: Museen und Geschäfte, Restaurants, Cafés und Heurige. Besuchen Sie das imperiale Wien in Hofburg, Schloss Schönbrunn und Schatzkammer. Schauen Sie bei Klimts „Kuss“ und Bruegels „Bauernhochzeit“ vorbei. Drehen Sie eine Runde mit dem Riesenrad oder mit der Vienna Ring Tram. Und erleben Sie Wiens Konzertsäle. Übrigens: Pro Wien-Karte fährt ein Kind (bis 15 Jahre, Ausweis!) gratis mit – in U-Bahn, Tram und Bus ...

Savor Vienna à la carte – and discover the city with 48 or 72 hours of unlimited travel on the subway, tram and bus network. More than 210 discounts are available at museums, shops, restaurants, cafés and wine taverns. Soak up the imperial atmosphere at the Hofburg, Schönbrunn Palace and Treasuries. See Klimt’s “The Kiss” and Bruegel’s “Peasant Wedding”. Go for a spin on the Giant Ferris Wheel or take a trip on the Vienna Ring Tram. Experience Vienna’s concert halls.

And that’s not all: one child up to the age of 15 (ID required) per Vienna Card holder is entitled to free travel on the subway, bus and tram network.

Godetevi Vienna à la carte – e lanciatevi alla scoperta della città per 48 o 72 ore con il metrò, il tram e l’autobus. Vi attendono oltre 210 agevolazioni: musei e negozi, ristoranti, caffè e Heuriger. Ammirate la Vienna imperiale al Palazzo Imperiale, al Castello di Schönbrunn ed al Tesoro. Andate a vedere il “Bacio“ di Klimt e le “Nozze contadine“ di Bruegel. Fate un giro turistico con la Ruota panoramica o il Vienna Ring Tram. E non dimenticate le sale da concerto di Vienna.

Tra l’altro: ogni utente di una Vienna Card può portare con sé gratuitamente un bambino (fino ai 15 anni, documento d’identità!) – in metrò, tram ed autobus...

Savourez Vienne à la carte – et partez pendant 48 ou 72 heures à la découverte de la ville en métro, tram et bus. Et profitez de plus de 210 réductions dans les musées, boutiques, restaurants, cafés et heuriger. Visitez la Vienne impériale : la Hofburg, le château de Schönbrunn, le Trésor impérial. Allez voir Le baiser de Klimt et Le repas de noces de Bruegel. Montez sur la Grande Roue ou découvrez la ville avec le Vienna Ring Tram. Ou encore offrez-vous un concert dans un des hauts lieux de la musique viennoise.

Bon à savoir : un enfant de moins de 15 ans (pièce justificative) accompagnant un adulte titulaire d’une Vienna Card voyage gratuitement en métro, tram et bus.

60 | G U I D E

CHOPARD Fans of Chopard’s distinctive Imperiale collection will be delighted by the recent addition of a new jewelleryinspired timepiece, the Imperiale 36mm Joaillerie.

Its 18-carat white gold case and mother-of-pearl dial are both adorned with diamonds, making the watch perfect for evening, while the minimalist grey and silver colour scheme keeps it looking truly modern: this is understated glamour at its best.

Chopard, Kohlmarkt 16, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 7197, chopard.com * for map go to page 52

Max Mara presents a feminine yet bold collection this season, taking much of its inspiration from images of Marilyn Monroe in the 1960s. This concept works beautifully with the Italian fashion house’s classic style, which has always focused on excellent materials and tailoring. This is a brand to go to for outerwear, as some of the season’s best coats and jackets can be found in this collection. Soft and slouchy is a key silhouette for autumn/winter, and Max Mara’s contrasts between ftted separates and loose, comfortable knitwear make for one of the most grown-up and feminine takes on the trend.

globalblue.com

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

MAX MARA

Peek & Cloppenburg, Kärntner Strasse 29, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 8904 8880, maxmara.com * for map go to page 52

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Deutschlandsberg, Frauentalerstr. 70 Fohnsdorf, Arena am Waldfeld Süd Murweg 13 a Fürstenfeld, FMZ Fürstenfeld-West Grazerstraße 16, Top 11 Gleisdorf, Ludwig-Binder-Str. 28, Top 2 Graz, Annenstr. 67 Graz, MURPARK, Ostbahnstr. 3 Graz, Shopping Nord Wienerstr. 351, Top 1/20 Hartberg, FMZ, Im Hatric 8

Kapfenberg, ece Einkaufs-Centrum Wiener Straße 35 a/Top 1/20 Leibnitz, EKZ Basta, Leopold Figl-Str. 1 Leoben, Hauptplatz 19, Top N 10 Liezen, EKZ Arkade Liezen Hauptstr. 30, Top 6 Mürzzuschlag, Mürz-Center Grazer Straße 79 b Seiersberg, Shopping City Seiersberg 7/2/5, Eingang D Voitsberg, Kaufwelt Rosental Knappenplatz 15

Innsbruck, DEZ, Amraser See Str. 60 Innsbruck, Sillpark, Museumstr. 38 Innsbruck West, Höttinger Au 73 Kitzbühel, Jochbergstraße 58 Landeck, Malserstr. 33

Nußdorf-Debant, Großglocknerstr. 1 a Telfs, EKZ Inntalcenter, Weissenbachg. 9 Vomp, An der Leiten 12 Wörgl, im Geschäftshaus CENTRAL Bahnhofstr. 27-29

G U I D E | 65

ESCADA

PHOTO: ALEXANDER PALACIOS

Experimentation with texture is the key theme at Escada Sport for autumn/winter 2015/16.

From grey coats with faux-fur details and patterned knits in red and cream to white 90s-inspired quilted jackets with overlaid embroidery and burnt orange scarves in velvet, every style is tactile – as are the brand’s evening looks, which include sleek black tops studded with beadwork on the shoulders, to glamorous efect.

Escada, Alter Markt 5, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 849612, escada.com

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66 | G U I D E

HUGO BOSS For autumn/winter 2015/16, Boss menswear is inspired by sophisticated winter holiday destinations – think Aspen, Colorado, or St Moritz, Switzerland. As such, the looks refect outdoorsy elegance.

From padded coats to pure wool trousers, even the warmest layers are cut close to the body for a fattering ft. True to form, materials are of the highest quality and range from merino wool and mohair to the fnest cashmere. The colour palette is similarly refned, sticking to shades such as granite and glacier blue with just a hint of brick red.

Boss, Rudolfskai 2, Salzburg 5020, +43 (0)662 840009, hugoboss.com

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Featured In This Issue

Festung Hohensalzburg, Mönchsberg 34, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 8424 3011, salzburg-burgen.at * for map go to page 62 It’s impossible to visit Salzburg and not be aware of the impressive Hohensalzburg fortress, which overlooks the city from its hilltop position.

Begun in 1077 and expanded over the following centuries, it is one of the largest medieval castles in Europe. Reached via a funicular that’s an attraction in its own right, the fortress – with its historic interiors, museum and atmospheric courtyards – ofers a fascinating insight into an essential part of Salzburg’s heritage and culture.

GE T R EIDEGA SSE

G E T R EI D E G A S S E

PHOTO: © AUSTRIAN NATIONAL TOURIST OFFICE/ WEINHAEUPL W.

S H O P | 67

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BANG & OLUFSEN

Bang & Olufsen, Herrengasse 3, Graz 8010, +43 (0)316 817888, bang-olufsen.com

PHOTO: RASMUS DENGSØ

The BeoSound Moment, an elegant new wireless music system from Bang & Olufsen, is as innovative as you’d expect from the highly regarded Danish audio brand. It gathers music from a range of sources, from your home computer to streaming services, all accessed through a unique double-sided controller.

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S H O P | 71 3. Kunsthandwerksmarkt am Färberplatz Discover more traditional handicrafts at this charming market, which offers delightful creations made from cloth, clay, wood, paper, wax and glass. graztourismus.at/advent

TOP 3 … CHRISTMAS MARKETS 1. Christkindlmarkt am Hauptplatz Handmade decorations, toys and more are the stars at this picturesque and atmospheric market on the square in front of the city hall. Don’t leave without sampling a glass of Feuerzangenbowle, a fiery, seasonal drink that’s a blend of mulled wine and rum.

1

PHOTO: GRAZ TOURISMUS

2. Christkindlmarkt im Franziskanerviertel The oldest of Graz’s 14 Christmas markets is wonderfully traditional. The stalls around Graz’s Franciscan church sell handmade Styrian handicrafts, mulled wine, punch and cider, and delicious regional specialities.

Hans Sachs Gasse, Stubenberggasse, Kaiserfeldgasse, Girardigasse, Opernring & Joanneumring ● CH ● IS INI ● R B L L N II ● H A CE CU SA CO U S ÖG

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Murgasse, Sporgasse, Hofgassse, Stempfergasse, Raubergasse & Schmiedgasse

76 | G U I D E

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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 26: Blazing A Trail

PHOTO: ISABELLA ABEL

Быть первооткрывателем

Салли МакИлхоун рассказывает о молодых дизайнерах Австрии – решительных, уверенных и создающих многообещающие коллекции Идиллические пейзажи и богатое культурное наследие Австрии знамениты на весь мир. Однако в последнее время в списке достопримечательностей все чаще можно наблюдать современную молодую моду. globalblue.com

В прошлом году показ Chanel Métiers d’Art Paris-Salzburg посетили звездные гости: Фаррелл Уильямс и Кара Делевинь прогуливались по Зальцбургу, родному городу Моцарта. Кроме того, в разных точках мира вышли статьи, посвященные венской марке Polaire и ее инновационным туфлям, напечатанным на 3D-принтере. Австрийские дизайнеры новой волны активны и амбициозны. Они уже знают: чтобы быть услышанными в мире моды, они должны выступить мощным аккордом. Романа Цохлин из Ferrari Zöchling – яркий представитель этого поколения: «После окончания университета я обнаружила, что если я хочу строить карьеру в модной индустрии, то у меня такие варианты: а) уехать из Австрии или б) стать предпринимателем и работать круглосуточно, попрощавшись со стабильным доходом, отпусками, свободным временем и сном, – признается она. – Выбор был несложным: в 2013 году я открыла собственную марку в Вене». Стремление идти за мечтой любой ценой – вот что объединяет современников Цохлинг. Причем, бренды и дизайнеры готовы работать вместе, чтобы повысить свои шансы на успех. «С первого дня

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существования Ferrari Zöchling я сотрудничаю с другими венскими художниками, по совместительству – близкими друзьями, и использую их произведения для своих принтов, – объясняет она. – Мое социальное окружение всегда вдохновляло меня заниматься модой». В новую коллекцию Ferrari Zöchling вошли платья с красивой драпировкой, андрогинные свитшоты свободного кроя и с принтами. Все это демонстрирует талант Цохлинг к конструированию одежды, который вырос из ее детства: «Одно из первых моих воспоминаний – как мама шила ночью, а я засыпала под монотонный звук швейной

машинки. Мое увлечение модным дизайном появилось из любви к ручному мастерству». В будущем Цохлинг хочет вывести свой бренд к международной аудитории: «Я открыла интернет-магазин. Например, кто-то носит мои шорты на Барбадосе, и это удивительно. Я очень хочу показывать коллекции в разных странах в ближайшее время. А особенно интересно было бы выступить на Азиатской неделе моды, поскольку меня просто восхищает эта часть света». Еще один необычный молодой бренд – венская марка Alila, которая специализируется на одежде из переработанных тканей. Основным источником материалов для нее стали

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японские шелковые кимоно. «Я открыла Alila в 2008 году, следуя за своей страстью к текстилюи путешествиям, – делится дизайнер Барбара Линднер. – Я никогда не могла удержаться от покупки красивых тканей. Однажды я просто решила сделать из них маленькую коллекцию аксессуаров и попробовать продать их. Успех вселил в меня уверенность: пора открывать собственную марку. Я просто globalblue.com

влюбилась в прекрасные ткани винтажных кимоно, и они стали основными материалами в моем творчестве». Безопасность для окружающей среды также очень волнует Линднер, поэтому экологичность стала одним из центральных аспектов ее предприятия: «Я люблю повторно использовать дорогие ткани, давать им новую жизнь в виде современной одежды. Использовать устойчивые

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методы работы – это так естественно для меня. Речь идет не только о переработке материлов, но и о локальном производстве этичным способом, высоком качестве и вневременном стиле, который будет актуальным долгое время». Следуя принципам устойчивой торговли, Alila не выпускает коллекции к каждому сезону. Линднер отдает предпочтение внесезонным инвестиционным вещам, которые способны пережить сменяющиеся тренды. В этом контексте для Линднер международные подиумы не так привлекательны: «Я создаю единственные в своем роде вещи маленькими тиражами из винтажных тканей. Поэтому мне интереснее сохранять локальную специфику и независимость». Столь прямолинейный подход к поиску своей аудитории не препятствует успеху Alila: «Недавно одна женщина из Нью-Йорка, познакомившись с моей маркой в свой предыдущий визит в Вену, заказала себе свадебное платье, – объясняет Линднер. – Также я путешествую со своей коллекцией и продаю вещи в других европейских странах, в том числе в Германии и Швейцарии. Сейчас я работаю над развитием партнерства с магазинами и аутлетами, где продается моя коллекция как в Австрии, так и далеко за ее

пределами». Покорить мир стремится еще один австрийский бренд – Roee. Его новая коллекция включает в себя удобные платья-пальто: в целом она вдохновлена мрачноватым фильмом-фантазией Терри Гиллиама «Бразилия». Дизайнер Рене Помбергер не верит, что австрийские корни марки могут быть помехой его успеху: «В нашем глобальном мире трудно начинать, вне зависимости от места. Интернет помогает с легкостью пересекать границы, – объясняет он. – А австрийская мода сейчас активно развивается». Стоя на пороге мировой экспансии, дизайнеры Австрии сохраняют спокойствие и уверенность. Помбергер комментирует это так: «В наших планах – укрепление бренда. А через несколько лет, когда Roee станет узнаваемым, мы придем на большие модные недели». ferrarizoechling.com, alila.at, roee.cc 32: In Focus: Swarovski

В фокусе: Swarovski

Уже 120 лет знаменитый австрийский бренд Swarovski олицетворяет союз прогресса и роскоши. Джинджер Роуз Кларк рассказывает о пути знаменитого австрийского бренда Swarovski к успеху и безусловному лидерству в производстве хрусталя

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высоко в Австрийских Альпах. Это место привлекало его своими ресурсами: в первую очередь – водной энергией, которая требовалась для развития производства. Там он и основал компанию Swarovski в 1895 году. Год за годом предприятие развивалось, и новой вехой на его пути стал 1913 год, когда Swarovski начал выпускать собственные кристаллы. Эти безупречные творения мгновенно произвели сенсацию и заинтересовали людей далеко за пределами

PHOTO: JENNIFER GRAYLOCK-GRAYLOCK.COM

Вспомним тиару Одри Хепберн в фильме «Завтрак у Тиффани», перчатку Майкла Джексона в турне 1984 года Victory Tour, украшенное кристаллами полупрозрачное платье Рианны, в котором она появилась на церемонии награждения американского советы моды СFDA. Все эти культовые вещи составляют только малую часть блистательной истории австрийского бренда Swarovski, который в 2015 году празднует свое 120-летие. Чтобы по-настоящему понять Swarovski, стоит мысленно отправиться в Богемию конца 19 века, где процветало стеклодувное искусство. Даниэля Сваровски с детства окружал хрусталь. В 1883 году, когда ему исполнился 21 год, он отправился на Венскую международную электрическую выставку. Это путешествие вдохновило его и стало катализатором дальнейших событий, которые вскоре необратимо изменили целую индустрию. Проведя масштабное исследование, Swarovski представил рынку специальную машину для огранки и шлифовки кристаллов, которая могла бы заменить трудоемкие ручные процессы, преобладавшие до того момента. Ведомый амбициями и вооруженный патентами, молодой Даниэль Сваровски отправился из Богемии в Ваттенс – торговый город

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Австрии. Еще шесть лет спустя настало время для нового шага: в рамках группы Swarovski было основано дочернее предприятие Tyrolit, которое специализировалось на аппаратах для полировки, распилки, сверления и очистки. До сих пор это подразделение остается лидером своей отрасли в Европе. Вслед за Tyrolit последовали Swarovski Optik (высокоточное оптическое оборудование, например, бинокуляры) в 1949 году и Swarovski Lighting в 1966 году. А в 1970-е впервые появились хрустальные фигурки, которыми теперь славится эта компания. Отношения Swarovski с миром моды поощрялись с самого начала, особенно через близкие и взаимно полезные отношения с Эльзой Скиапарелли, Коко Шанель и позднее с Кристианом Диором. В 1999 году модный редактор Изабелла Блоу представила компании дизайнера Александра Маккуина. И вскоре именно он помог Swarovski найти общий язык с новым, молодым поколением. Этому способствовала, например, прославленная коллекция Widows of Culloden. Также в 1999 году появилась серия Swarovski Collective – еще один совместный с Маккуином проект. За 15 лет свет увидело более 150 коллекции, созданных вместе как с авторитетными, так и с неизвестными, но неизменно

талантливыми марками. Помимо моды, Swarovski занимается поддержкой инноваций в сфере интерьерного дизайна. Например, для проекта Crystal Palace Захе Хадид, Рону Араду, Тоду Бунтье и другим звездным дизайнерам предложили деконструировать и переосмыслить такой простой и понятный предмет, как люстра. С помощью подобных экспериментов Swarovski постоянно ищет все новые способы раздвинуть границы. Неустанно двигаясь вперед, Swarovski по-прежнему серьезно

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относится и к своему наследию. В частности, компания остается семейным делом: креативный директор Надя Сваровски – праправнучка основателя. Теперь уже пятое поколение этой семьи заседает в исполнительном совете холдинга. Не оставляет бренд и своей родины: в Ваттенсе продолжают производить фирменный хрусталь. Там же 20 лет назад Swarovski открыл музей Kristallwelten («хрустальные миры»): тогда это событие совпало с празднованием столетнего юбилия. Задача музея – открыть перед посетителем блистательный мир хрусталя. Поэтому среди экспонатов здесь можно встретить произведения таких художников и дизайнеров, как Сальвадор Дали и Ники де Сент-Фалль. И это, кстати, еще раз подчеркивает связь Swarovski со сферой дизайна, искусства и моды.

Swarovski вовлечен во множество других проектов – от благотворительного фонда Swarovski Foundation до поддержки профильных мероприятий, как, например, Design Miami. Начав свой путь с небольшого семейного дела, Swarovski приобрел глобальную силу и перевернул ювелирную индустрию. Его влияние ощущается в мире моды, искусства, дизайна и архитектуры. Кристаллы Swarovski – это классика globalblue.com

и историческое наследие бренда. Но в то же время компания остается столько же новаторской в наши дни, как и в те времена, когда Даниэль Сваровски разработал «бриллианты для всех» и в корне преобразил всю индустрию. swarovski.com 79: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к

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таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €75.01 и сэкономьте до 15% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. 美文翻译

26: Blazing A Trail 辉煌之路

奥地利的新晋设计师们坚定果 决、充满信心，打造出动人心弦的 系列作品。Sally McIlhone带您深 入探索 奥地利素来以其靓丽动人的美景和 丰富多彩的文化历史著称——而 如今，奥地利也越来越多地成为了 时尚界的焦点。在去年的香奈儿 巴黎-萨尔斯堡高级手工坊时装秀 （Métiers d’Art Paris-Salzburg Chanel）上， Pharrell Williams 与Cara Delevingne等名流现身莫 扎特故乡；与此同时，维也纳品牌 Polaire的3D打印鞋履也吸引了全世 界无数媒体专栏的关注。 奥地利的下一代设计师都胸 怀大志、动力十足，他们深知，若 想在时尚界大合唱中被人听见，他 们就必须全力以赴来打动听众的

心弦。Ferrari Zöchling的创始人 Romana Zöchling就是这样一位 设计师。 “大学毕业以后，我很快发 现，如果想要以服装设计为生，我 只有两种选择：要么离开奥地利， 要么就独力创业，然后动辄每天工 作24小时，全年无休，和稳定的收 入、假期、闲暇时间、充足睡眠全部 说拜拜， ”她承认道。 “这个选择做 起来很简单。2013年，我在维也纳 创立了自己的品牌。” 不惜代价追逐梦想的渴望是 许多Zöchling同代人所共有的特 点，因此不少品牌和设计师正携手 并进，追寻成功之路。 “从Ferrari Zöchling成立的第一天起，我便在 和其他维也纳艺术家合作，正好我 有不少艺术家朋友，而他们的画作 也被我借鉴来作为服装上的印花， ” 她解释道。 “我的社交环境让我的 时装设计深受启发。” Ferrari Zöchling的最新系列 中包含优雅美丽的褶坠长裙、宽松 大衣以及充满中性气质的印花套头 衫，彰显了Zöchling多变的构建技 艺，而这身本事还要从她的童年说 起。 “我记得很小的时候，我的母 亲在晚上缝纫，而我就在熟悉的缝 纫机声响中缓缓入睡， ”Zöchling说 道。 “我能成为一名时装设计师，某 种程度上正是源于我对这门手艺 的热爱。”

谈及未来，Zöchling深切地期 望有一天能够在国际舞台上展示自 己的品牌。 “我已经建好了品牌网 店， ”她说道。 “有人在巴巴多斯穿着 我设计的短裤，这真的很棒。我真 的很想在不久的将来去不同的国家 展示我的作品。我的一大具体目标 就是带着我的系列服装登上某个亚 洲时装周的展台，因为我特别迷恋 那个地方。” 维也纳的Alila也是一个独树一 帜的奥地利品牌，专擅把上了年份 的日本和服丝绸改造成优质高档的 服饰。 “我满怀着对纺织艺术和旅 行的热情，在2008年创立了Alila， ” 设计师Barbara Lindner说道。 “我 一直都在物色漂亮的布料，所以我 决定干脆做一个小型的配饰系列， 试着卖一卖。最后我成功了，这也给 予了我信心开创自己的品牌。后来 我发现竟还有像日式古装这样美丽 的纺织品，便立即爱上了它——而 这些布料如今也是我的服装系列的 基础材料。” 可持续性是品牌一大关注点， 自然地Lindner对自己公司这方面 的作为也满怀激情。 “我喜欢重复 利用珍稀布料，使它们重获新生， 摇身成为当代时装。坚持可持续性 的经营方式对我来说是很自然的 选择。这不仅仅是古旧物品的再次 利用或是织物的可持续性使用，也 与本地的公平生产、产品持久耐用 的质量和经典不朽的风格有着密 切的关系。”得益于循环利用的特 点，Alila的系列服装并非根据季 节推出，而是跨越季节的、值得投 资的设计作品，超脱于当下潮流 之外。 对于Lindner而言，国际T台并 没有那么大的吸引力。 “我所打造 的作品取材于古旧的材料，生产规 模很小，且每一件都独一无二，因 此我更愿意保留本地特色，做独立 globalblue.com

PHOTO: ISABELLA ABEL

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品牌。”这种更直接的与潜在顾客 会面的方法并没有妨碍Alila取得成 功。 “有一位来自纽约的女士，她上 次来维也纳时看到我的服装系列， 最近她联系了我，为她的婚礼订了 一条礼裙， ”Lindner说道。 “我也会 带着我的作品周游各地，在德国、 瑞士等其他欧洲国家销售。目前我 正在努力扩大我服装系列的零售商 和经销商网络，不光是在奥地利本 土，还有其他更远的地方。” 另一家奥地利品牌Roee同样 着眼于全球市场。该品牌的最新系

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列中有一款实用型开襟明纽女士长 服，其灵感取自于Terry Gilliam导 演的反乌托邦式幻想类电影《巴西》 （Brazil）。设计师Rene Pomberger 深信，品牌的奥地利根源并不会阻 碍其获得成功。 “在这个全球化的世界里，在 任何地方起家都不是容易的事儿， 但是因特网为我们跨越国界带来了 诸多便利， ”Pomberger解释说。 “奥 地利的时尚行业正日益蓬勃。”面 对如此盛景，奥地利的设计师们都 信心满满。Pomberger补充说， “我 们的计划就是加强品牌形象，几年 内当我们名声鹊起的时候，我们就 会去参加大型时装周……” ferrarizoechling.com, alila.at, roee.cc

Swarovski）的成长，但是真正燃起 了他的想象力、让他得以永远改变 行业历史的催化事件，则是1883年 他21岁时参加了维也纳国际电力 技术博览会（Vienna International Electric Exhibition）。 施华洛世奇深受此行启发， 埋头钻研多年，最终发明了一台水 晶切割及抛光机器，取代了耗时费 力的传统手工操作流程。这位年 轻人踌躇满志，以专利为武器，毅 然离开波希米亚，只身前往瓦滕斯 （Wattens）。瓦滕斯是一座高居 于奥地利阿尔卑斯山上的市镇，这 里的物产资源十分丰富，这其中又

32: In Focus: Swarovski 瞩目焦点：施华洛世奇

奥黛丽·赫本在电影《蒂凡尼的早 餐》中佩戴的皇冠头饰、迈克尔·杰 克逊在1984年胜利之旅巡回演唱 会上戴的手套、蕾哈娜（Rihanna） 今年早些时候出席美国时尚设计 师协会大奖颁奖典礼时所穿的水 晶透视裙……这些备受瞩目的作品 仅仅是施华洛世奇的一小部分杰 作而已。2015年，这一举世闻名的 奥地利品牌即将迎来自己的120周 年华诞。 然而，若要真正地了解施华洛 世奇，就必须回溯至十九世纪后期 的玻璃制造业中心——波希米亚省 （Bohemia）。水晶玻璃其实一直伴 随着丹尼尔·施华洛世奇（Daniel

PHOTO: MICHEL DUFOUR/WIREIMAGE

一百二十年来，作为奥地利最具盛 名的水晶制造商，施华洛世奇一直 都是创新与魅力的代名词。Ginger Rose Clark为您剖析辉煌背后的 成因

PHOTO: KRAUSE, JOHANSEN

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globalblue.com

PHOTO: OLIVIER SAILLANT

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以水力资源特为由甚；有了这些资 源，他就可以进一步研发他的产品 了。1895年，也正是在这座小镇，他 创立了施华洛世奇品牌。 公司年复一年不断壮大，1913 年更是迎来了里程碑式的跨越： 施华洛世奇开始独立生产水晶。 精致无暇的产品掀起了不小的轰 动，在奥地利之外亦吸引了广泛关 注。六年之后，品牌迎来了另一项 重要进展，那就是Tyrolit的成立。 作为施华洛世奇集团旗下生产磨 削、割锯、钻探、加工器械的分公 司，Tyrolit多年来一直是欧洲市场 的行业引领者。继此之后，集团又 于1949年创立了专攻双目望远镜等 精密光学仪器的Swarovski Optik， 于1966年创立了专攻照明设计的 Swarovski Lighting。上世纪七十

年代诞生的水晶小塑像更是让品牌 名声大噪。 早在品牌创立之初，施华洛 世奇便与Elsa Schiaparelli、Coco Chanel以及后来的Christian Dior 建立了互补互惠的合作关系，从而 与时尚界结下了不解之缘。再后 来，1999年通过Isabella Blow的介 绍，施华洛世奇与设计师Alexander McQueen强强联手，通过后者备 受赞誉的Widows of Culloden系 列等项目，帮助品牌步入了新一代 年轻人的视野。于同年成立的施华 洛世奇集体创作项目（Swarovski Collective）便是与McQueen合作 的直接成果；在项目成立至今十五 年左右的时间里，施华洛世奇相继 与众多著名的和不甚知名的精选 品牌合作，携手推出了150多个作

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品系列。 除了时尚界，施华洛世奇对 室内设计领域的创意开发也颇有 助益。例如，在施华洛世奇水晶宫 项目（Crystal Palace）中，Zaha Hadid、Ron Arad以及Tod Boontje 等设计师便受邀对传统的枝形吊 灯进行解构和再创造。通过这些创 举，施华洛世奇不断挑战极限，推 陈出新。 虽然施华洛世奇对前瞻设计怀 有无限激情，品牌对历史的传承也 相当看重。施华洛世奇如今仍由家 族掌管：创意总监Nadja Swarovski 是品牌创始人的曾曾孙女，执行董 事层还有其他四位家族第五代成员 在位。施华洛世奇也从未忘记过它 的地理根基：瓦滕斯仍是品牌的水 晶生产基地，二十年前，品牌还在 这里揭开了施华洛世奇水晶世界博 物馆（Swarovski Kristallwelten） 的面纱，以庆祝100周年华诞。该博 物馆不仅为访客提供了深入探索水 晶世界的机会，还陈列着Salvador Dalí和Niki de Saint Phalle等画家 和设计师的作品，从而再次加深了 施华洛世奇与设计、艺术和时尚界 的奇妙缘分。 施华洛世奇还参与了诸多其 他项目，从通过施华洛世奇基金 会（Swarovski Foundation）参与 慈善事业，到赞助迈阿密设计展 （Design Miami）等活动，不胜枚 举。施华洛世奇从一家小小的家族 企业逐步壮大，为珠宝业和众多相 关行业带来了天翻地覆的变化。品 牌的影响力遍及时尚、艺术、设计 和建筑等各个领域。虽然水晶行 业注重传统，但品牌也紧跟当代潮 流，踊跃开拓创新，将丹尼尔·施华 洛世奇当年彻底改变行业轨道、誓 为打造“属于每一个人的钻石”的精 神魄力秉承至今。 swarovski.com globalblue.com

79: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多 家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球 蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税， 您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星 标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们 简单的退税过程：

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联 退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城 市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格 上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点 领取您的退税款。 联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€75.01即可节约高达购买价 格15%的税。请注意：最终退款将包 含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续 费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单 位收取现金退税手续费。

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‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 79‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الضيبة‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪Global Blue‬‬ ‫خدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة ‪Tax‬‬ ‫‪ Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من‬ ‫‪ 270,000‬متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق‬

‫حول العال‪.‬‬

‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين‬ ‫يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو‬ ‫تسأل عن غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع‬ ‫خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب‬ ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو ‪Global‬‬ ‫استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪PHOTO: CATWALKING.COM‬‬

‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب‬ ‫الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة‬ ‫عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫مكاتب الستداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫والفن والوضة‪.‬‬ ‫تشارك ‪ Swarovski‬ف برامج أخرى‬ ‫بدءا ً بالعمل الخيية من خلل مؤسسة‬ ‫‪ Swarovski Foundation‬وصولً إل ريع‬ ‫الفعاليات مثال ‪ .Design Miami‬من شكة‬ ‫عائلية صغية‪ ،‬تح ّولت ‪ Swarovski‬إل السم‬ ‫التدّد الذي بدّل عوال صناعة الجوهرات‬ ‫ود ّوى صداه ف أكث من مجال فطال بتأثيه عال‬ ‫الوضة والفن والتصميم والهندسة العمرية‪.‬‬ ‫عل الرغم من أ ّن البلورات تعكس الرث ف‬ ‫الصناعة‪ ،‬ل تزال ‪ Swarovski‬مبدعة ومبتكرة‬ ‫اليوم كم كانت ف السابق عندما قلب ‪Daniel‬‬ ‫‪ Swarovski‬القاييس رأساً عل عقب ليصنع‬ ‫"ألاساً للجميع"‪.‬‬ ‫‪swarovski.com‬‬

‫للتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪111 111 232 +421‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ €75.01‬وادّخر حتّى‬ ‫‪ 15%‬من ثن مشتياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ‬

‫الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع‬ ‫الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم‬ ‫إداري‪ .‬ف بعض الطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض رسم خدمة‬ ‫نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال‬ ‫رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

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‫التعاون مع ‪ McQueen‬مبادرة ‪Swarovski‬‬ ‫‪ Collective‬التي أطلقت سنة ‪ .1999‬بعد‬ ‫‪ 15‬عاماً عل إطلقها‪ ،‬وصل عدد الجموعات‬ ‫التي ض ّمتها إل ‪ 150‬ت ّم اختيارها من علمات‬

‫أقل شهرة‪.‬‬ ‫تجارية معروفة أو ّ‬ ‫بعيدا ً عن عال الوضة‪ ،‬اضطلعت الشكة‬ ‫بدور جوهري ف دعم البتكار ف عال التصميم‬ ‫الداخل‪ .‬فعل سبيل الثال دُعي مص ّممون عل‬ ‫غرار ‪ Zaha Hadid‬و‪ Ron Arad‬و‪Tod‬‬ ‫‪ Boontje‬لتفكيك الثيا التقليديّة وإعادة‬ ‫تصميمها لشوع ‪Swarovski’s Crystal‬‬ ‫‪ .Palace‬بإطلق ‪ Swarovski‬مبادرات‬ ‫مم’لة‪ ،‬تسعى إل تخطّي العقبات والذهاب إل‬ ‫أقص الحدود‪.‬‬ ‫عل الرغم من تركيز العلمة التجارية‬

‫متمسكة بإر’ها‪ .‬إذ تبقى‬ ‫عل التط ّور‪ ،‬ل تزال ّ‬ ‫‪ Swarovski‬شكة عائلية‪ :‬فمديرتها البداعية‬ ‫‪ Nadja Swarovski‬إنّ ا هي حفيدة حفيد‬ ‫الؤسس وهي عضوة ف مجلس الشكة التنفيذي‬ ‫الذي يتألّف من ‪ 4‬أفراد آخرين يتحدّرون من‬ ‫تنس ‪ Swarovski‬جذورها‬ ‫العائلة نفسها‪ .‬ل َ‬ ‫الجغرافية أيضاً إذ ل يزال البلّور يُص ّنع ف‬ ‫‪ Wattens‬أي الكان الذي كشفت فيه العلمة‬ ‫التجارية النقاب عن متحف ‪Swarovski‬‬ ‫‪( Kristallwelten‬عوال البلور) منذ ‪20‬‬ ‫عاماً احتفالً بالذكرى الئوية لتأسيسها‪ .‬يُعطي‬ ‫التحف الزوا َر لح ًة عن عال البلور إذ تُقام فيه‬ ‫معارض لفناني ومصممي عل غرار ‪Salvador‬‬ ‫‪ Dalí‬و‪ ،Niki de Saint Phalle‬ما يعيد‬ ‫التأكيد عل علقة ‪ Swarovski‬بعال التصميم‬

‫‪PHOTO: LEO TORRI‬‬

‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫‪In Focus: Swarovski: 32‬‬ ‫تحت الجهر‪Swarovski :‬‬

‫طوال ‪ 120‬عاماً‪ ،‬شكّلت العلمة التجارية‬ ‫النمساوية الكث شهر ًة ف عال صناعة البلور‬ ‫مرادفا ً للبداع والتألّق‪ .‬تبحث ‪Ginger Rose‬‬ ‫‪ Clark‬ف أسباب نجاحها الد ّوي‬ ‫من تاج ‪ Audrey Hepburn‬ف فيلم‬ ‫‪ ،Breakfast at Tifany’s‬إل قفّاز‬ ‫‪ Michael Jackson‬ف جولته ‪Victory‬‬ ‫الرصع‬ ‫‪ Tour‬سنة ‪ 1984‬مرورا ً بالفستان ّ‬ ‫الذي ارتدته ‪ Rihanna‬إل حفل جوائز‬ ‫‪Council of Fashion Designers of‬‬ ‫‪ :America‬ل تعكس هذه القطع البهرة‬ ‫سوى جزء بسيط من تراث علمة ‪Swarovski‬‬ ‫النمساوية الشهية التي تحتفي سنة ‪2015‬‬ ‫برور ‪ 120‬عاماً عل تأسيسها‪.‬‬

‫مع ذلك‪ ،‬وليفهم الرء علمة‬ ‫‪ Swarovski‬بتفاصيلها‪ ،‬عليه أن يعود‬ ‫بالزمن إل القرن التاسع عش وإل مقاطعة‬ ‫‪ Bohemia‬التي شكّلت آنذاك الشيان الغذّي‬ ‫لصناعة الزجاج‪ .‬ترعرع ‪Daniel Swarovski‬‬ ‫محاطاً بالزجاج والبلور‪ .‬وقد جاءت زياته‬

‫سنة ‪ 1883‬عندما كان ف الـ ‪ 21‬من العمر‬ ‫لعرض ‪Vienna International Electric‬‬ ‫‪ Exhibition‬لتغذّي خياله وتطلق شارة‬

‫الحداث التي ستقلب هذه الصناعة رأساً عل‬ ‫عقب ف ما بعد‪.‬‬ ‫خلّفت هذه الزيارة بصمتها عل‬ ‫ليتوصل‬ ‫‪ Swarovski‬الذي قام ببحوث مكثّفة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫فتحل‬ ‫إل ابتكار آلة تقطع البلور وتصقله‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫مكان العمل اليدوية الشاقة التي كانت شائعة‬ ‫تحل الشاب‬ ‫آنذاك بي صفوف الحرفيي‪ّ .‬‬ ‫اليافع بالطموح وتسلّح بباءة اختاع فمض‬ ‫عن ‪ Bohemia‬ليقصد ‪ ،Wattens‬وهي بلدة‬ ‫تض ّم سوقاً وتقع ف أعال جبال اللب ف النمسا‪.‬‬ ‫تزخر بالوارد – ل سيّم بالطاقة الائية – التي‬ ‫كان بحاجة إليها ليط ّور منتجه أكث‪ .‬هنا ّأسس‬ ‫علمة ‪ Swarovski‬التجارية سنة ‪.1895‬‬ ‫م ّرت السنون ول ّ‬ ‫تنفك الشكة تزدهر‬ ‫وتكب‪ .‬فقد شكّلت سنة ‪ 1913‬محطّة بارزة ف‬ ‫مسية شكة ‪Swarovski‬عندما بدأت تص ّنع‬ ‫بلورات خاصة بها‪ .‬لقت البتكارات التي ل‬ ‫أي شائبة نجاحاً مدوياً فجذبت انتباه‬ ‫تسها ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أشخاص من خارج النمسا‪ .‬بعد ست سنوات‪،‬‬ ‫حصل تطور هام آخر‪ :‬تأسيس شكة ‪Tyrolit‬‬ ‫التي تشكّل فرعاً من ‪Swarovski‬وتص ّنع‬ ‫آلت طحن ونش وتثقيب وخياطة‪ .‬ل تزال‬ ‫هذه الشكة اليوم رائدة ف السواق الوروبية‪.‬‬ ‫’ ّم جاءت شكة ‪ Swarovski Optik‬التي‬ ‫تأسست سنة ‪ 1949‬لتتبع شكة ‪Tyrolit‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وتركّز عل مجال صناعة العدّات البصية‬ ‫الدقيقة عل غرار النظار الثنائ قبل أن ت ُّأسس‬ ‫شكة ‪ Swarovski Lighting‬سنة ‪.1966‬‬ ‫فتأسست شكة تا’يل‬ ‫أ ّما ف السبعينيات‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫الكريستال التي أكسبت الجموعة شهرة غي‬ ‫مسبوقة‪.‬‬ ‫من البداية توطّدت علقة ‪Swarovski‬‬ ‫بجال الوضة والزياء ل سيّم بفضل علقاتها‬ ‫الو’يقة مع ‪ Elsa Schiaparelli‬و‪Coco‬‬ ‫‪ Chanel‬و ‪Christian Dior‬التي تعود‬ ‫بالنفعة عل الطرفَي‪ .‬ف الونة الخية‪ ،‬وبعد‬ ‫دور اضطلعت به ‪ Isabella Blow‬سنة‬ ‫‪ ،1999‬أصبح ‪Alexander McQueen‬‬ ‫الص ّمم الذي ق ّرب السافات بي ‪Swarovski‬‬ ‫وجيل الشباب الجديد بفضل مجموعاته ومنها‬ ‫‪ .Widows of Culloden‬فتمخّضت عن‬

‫‪96‬‬

‫الصغر‪".‬‬ ‫عندما تتحدّث ‪ Zöchling‬عن الستقبل‪ ،‬تُظهر‬ ‫حرصها عل عرض علمتها التجارية عل الساحة‬ ‫"أسست متجرا ً عل النتنت‪.‬‬ ‫الدولية‪ .‬تقول‪ّ :‬‬ ‫أرى أشخاصاً ف بربادوس يرتدون الساويل‬ ‫القصية التي ص ّممتها‪ ،‬وهذه مدعاة فخر ل‪.‬‬ ‫ل ّ‬ ‫شك ف أنّني أرغب ف عرض تصاميمي ف‬ ‫بلدان مختلفة ف الستقبل القريب‪ .‬أ ّما الهدف‬ ‫السمى فهو عرضها ف أسبوع الوضة السيوي‪،‬‬ ‫إذ ل يخفى عن أحد كم أنا مفتونة بهذا الجزء‬ ‫من العال‪".‬‬ ‫تشكّل ‪ Alila‬علمة تجارية مميّزة أخرى‬ ‫تخصصها‬ ‫اتّخذت من فيينا مقرا ً لها ويُعرف عنها ّ‬ ‫باللبس الفاخرة التي ت ّم صنعها بتدوير ملبس‬ ‫أخرى ل سيّم حرير الكيمونو اليابان‪ .‬تقول‬ ‫"أسست‬ ‫الصممة ‪ّ :Barbara Lindner‬‬ ‫‪ Alila‬عام ‪ 2008‬معتمد ًة عل شغفي بف ّن‬ ‫النسج والسفر‪ .‬دائاً ما كنت أشتي القمشة‬ ‫الجميلة‪ ،‬فقررت أن أبتكر مجموعة أكسسوارات‬ ‫صغية أبيعها‪ .‬لقت هذه الجموعة نجاحاً ع ّزز‬ ‫ثقتي بنفس وأعطان دافعاً لتأسيس علمتي‬ ‫التجارية الخاصة‪ .‬ث ّم اكتشفت اللبس اليابانية‬ ‫حب هذه النسجة الجميلة‬ ‫القدية ووقعت ف ّ‬ ‫من اللحظة الول فباتت تشكّل اليوم أساس‬ ‫مجموعتي‪".‬‬ ‫تول العلمة التجارية الستدامة أهمية‬ ‫كبية فيبدو شغف ‪ Lindner‬بهذه الناحية‬ ‫"أحب أن أستخدم القمشة‬ ‫من شكتها مفهوماً‪ّ .‬‬ ‫الثمينة م ّرة أخرى فأنفخ فيها حيا ًة جديدة‬ ‫وأح ّولها إل أزياء معاصة‪ .‬بات الحرص عل‬ ‫متسخة ّف‪ .‬ول‬ ‫استدامة عمل طبيع ًة ثانية ّ‬ ‫يتمحور عمل عل إعادة استخدام النسجة‬ ‫الستدامة أو القدية‪ ،‬بل يتعدّاه ليشمل النتاج‬ ‫الحل النزيه والجودة الدائة والزياء التي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ل تبطل موضتها فتدوم عل م ّر الواسم‪ ".‬با‬ ‫أ ّن مجموعات ‪ Alila‬ت ُصنع من قطع يُعاد‬ ‫استخدامها‪ ،‬ل تعكس صيحات الوسم‪ ،‬بل‬ ‫هي ملبس يُحبّذ الستثمر بشائها لنّها عابرة‬ ‫للمواسم ول يقتص ارتداؤها عل الصيحات‬ ‫الؤقّتة‪.‬‬ ‫ل تجد ‪ Lindner‬نفسها تصبو إل‬ ‫الساحة الدولية‪" :‬با أنّني ألجأ إل الواد القدية‬ ‫لص ّمم قطعاً فريدة من نوعها عل نطاق ضيّق‪،‬‬ ‫أف–ّ ل أن أحص عمل بالساحة الحلّية حتى‬

‫أبقى مستقلّة‪ ".‬ل يُ ِعق لقاء العملء الحتملي‬ ‫تفس ‪Lindner‬‬ ‫نجاح ‪ّ .Alila‬‬ ‫وجهاً لوجه َ‬ ‫قائلةً‪" :‬رأت مؤخرا ً امرأة من نيويورك‬ ‫مجموعتي ف فيينا فاتصلت ب لتطلب فستاناً‬ ‫لزفافها‪ .‬أسافر أحياناً مع مجموعتي فأبيعها ف‬ ‫دول أوروبية أخرى من بينها ألانيا وسويسا‪.‬‬ ‫أعمل حالياً عل توسيع شبكة الحلت ونقاط‬ ‫البيع التي تعرض مجموعتي‪ ،‬ليس ف النمسا‬ ‫فحسب‪ ،‬إنّ ا ف دول أخرى أي–اً‪".‬‬ ‫تشكّل ‪ Roee‬علمة تجارية أخرى‬ ‫وضعت مص ّممتها ‪Rene Pomberger‬‬ ‫نصب عي َنيها‪ .‬ت– ّم مجموعتها‬ ‫الشهرة العاليّة َ‬ ‫الخية معاطف عمل ّية عل شكل فساتي‬ ‫مستوحاة من فيلم ‪ Brazil‬الخيا ّل الكئيب‬ ‫للمخرج ‪ .Terry Gilliam‬بالنسبة إل‬ ‫الص ّممة لن تقف جذور العلمة النمساوية ف‬ ‫طريق نجاحها‪.‬‬ ‫تشح قائلةً‪" :‬ف عص العولة‪ ،‬يصعب‬ ‫اختيار نقطة انطلق‪ .‬غي أ ّن النتنت س ّهلت‬ ‫علينا عبور الحدود‪ .‬إذ ل ّ‬ ‫تنفك ساحة الزياء‬ ‫التوسع‪،‬‬ ‫النمساوية تزدهر‪ ".‬ف وجه هذا ّ‬ ‫يبقى مص ّممو النمسا واثقي بأنفسهم‪ .‬تتابع‬ ‫‪" :Pomberger‬تكمن خطّتنا ف تعزيز العلمة‬ ‫التجارية‪ ،‬وبعد ب–عة أعوام‪ ،‬حي نكتسب‬ ‫سمع ًة عالية‪ ،‬سننطلق للمشاركة ف أسابيع‬ ‫الوضة الكبية‪"...‬‬

‫‪،ferrarizoechling.com ،alila.at‬‬

‫‪roee.cc‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪97‬‬

‫لعربيةعربيعرب‬ ‫‪Blazing A Trail: 26‬‬

‫شق الطريق‬ ‫ّ‬

‫يشتهر مص ّممو النمسا بعزيتهم وثقتهم‬ ‫بنفسهم وابتكارهم مجموعات مثية‪ .‬ها هي‬ ‫‪ Sally McIlhone‬تكشف التفاصيل‪.‬‬ ‫ذاع صيت النمسا لناظرها الخلبها وتاريخها‬ ‫الثقاف الغني – والن تزداد شهرتها بعد‬ ‫أن تسلّطت عليها أضواء الوضة والزياء‪.‬‬ ‫ففي عرض‪Métiers d’Art Paris-‬‬ ‫‪ Salzburg‬لدار ‪ Chanel‬العام الاض‪،‬‬ ‫جه أمثال ‪ Pharrell Williams‬و‪Cara‬‬ ‫تو ّ‬ ‫‪ Delevingne‬إل مسقط رأس ‪Mozart‬‬ ‫وتصدّرت أحذية ‪ Polaire‬الثلثية البعاد‬ ‫الصنوعة ف فيينا عناوين الصحف‪.‬‬ ‫يتميّز جيل الصممي الصاعد بطموحه‬ ‫واندفاعه فهو عل يقي بالحاجة التي تفرض‬ ‫عليه أن يضب عل الوتر الحساس حتى يد ّوي‬ ‫صدى صوته ف عال الوضة‪ .‬ومن بي هؤلء‬ ‫الصممي ‪ Romana Zöchling‬من دار‬ ‫‪ .Ferrari Zöchling‬كشفت قائلةً‪" :‬بعد أن‬

‫تخ ّرجت من الجامعة‪ ،‬سعان ما علمت أنّني‬ ‫وإن أردت أن أكسب لقمة العيش بالعمل ف‬ ‫صناعة اللبس‪ ،‬أمامي الخياران التيان‪ :‬إ ّما أن‬ ‫أغادر النمسا وإ ّما أن أصبح رائدة أعمل تعمل‬ ‫عل مدار الساعة مدير ًة ظهرها للدخل الثابت‬ ‫والجازات ووقت الفراغ والنوم‪ .‬وكم كان الخيار‬ ‫سهلً‪ّ .‬أسست العلمة التجارية ف فيينا سنة‬ ‫‪".2013‬‬ ‫يتشارك معاصون كث ف دار ‪Zöchling‬‬ ‫هذه الرغبة ف مطاردة أحلمهم مهم كان الثمن‬ ‫فتت–افر جهود العلمات التجارية والصممي‬ ‫لتتكلّل نجاحاً‪ .‬تكشف الص ّممة‪" :‬منذ افتتاح‬ ‫‪ ،Ferrari Zöchling‬تعاونت مع فناني‬ ‫آخرين من فيينا هم من بي أصدقائ الق ّربي‬ ‫’‬ ‫نقشات عل الثياب التي‬ ‫واستخدمت ف ّنهم‬ ‫ص ّممتها‪ .‬لطالا حثّتني البيئة الجتمعية التي‬ ‫أعيش فيها عل تصميم الزياء‪".‬‬ ‫تقدّم مجموعة ‪ Ferrari Zöchling‬الخية‬ ‫فساتي جميلة بثنيات‪ ،‬وقمصاناً شبه متهّلة‬ ‫للرجال والنساء تعكس مهارات ‪Zöchling‬‬ ‫التنوعة ف التكيب‪ ،‬مهارة اكتسبتها منذ نعومة‬ ‫أظافرها‪ .‬تقول‪" :‬أذكر والدت وهي تخيط‬ ‫ف الليل‪ ،‬إذ اعتدت أن أغفو عل صوت آلة‬ ‫الخياطة الألوف‪ .‬أصبحت مصممة أزياء اليوم‬ ‫ل ّن عشقي لهذه الحرفة تنامى ف قلبي منذ‬

‫‪PHOTO: CHIARA KRONSTEINER‬‬

98 | P RO D U C T S

THE SWEETEST THING Honey has long been valued for everything from its natural sweetness to its antiseptic properties. The rich and unspoiled countryside of Austria, from the mountain pastures of Vorarlberg and Tirol in the west to the gentle meadows of Burgenland in the east, is a perfect haven for honey bees. The Wienerwald (Vienna Woods) area, in the hills to the west Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 79

of the Austrian capital, became a Unesco Biosphere Reserve in 2005.

This is where Ambroso honey – an organic honey that is flled with the fragrant aromas of the beautiful Austrian landscape – is produced.

You haven’t truly tasted honey until you’ve tasted honey of this standard. grc Ambroso organic honey with lavender blossom, 340g, €19.90, Julius Meinl, Graben 19, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 3334, ambroso.at for map go to page 53

*

PHOTO: © BERNHARD ANGERER/WIEN

SOUVENIR