SHOP Austria SS15

AUSTRIA | АВСТРИЯ | 奥地利 |

AUSTRIA Style Edition Spring/Summer 2015

Page 26 FRAGRANT DREAMS: Austria’s bespoke perfumers create scents that tell stories

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A NEW ER A OF WONDER OPEN DAILY FROM 9.00 AM TO 6.30 PM LAST ENTRY 5.30 PM KristallweltenstraĂ&#x;e 1, 6112 Wattens, Austria www.swarovski.com/kristallwelten

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Mariahilfer Straße 37–39 • Mariahilfer Straße 94 • Alser Straße 35 • Favoritenstraße 126 • Hietzinger Hauptstr. 7 • Auhofcenter, Albert-Schweitzer-G. 6 • Lugner City, Gablenzg. 5–13 • Millennium City, Handelskai 94–96 • SCN Ignaz-Köck-Str. 26b • Donauzentrum, Donaustadtstr. 1 • WIEN/VÖSENDORF • SCS

EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

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Let SHOP reveal a surprising side of Austria. Discover the renaissance of Vienna’s fragrance industry (page 26), heritage shoemaker Ludwig Reiter (page 32), and much more. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15% when shopping in Austria. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Austria. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free Global Blue Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

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Karolis Strautniekas Lithuanian illustrator Karolis Strautniekas, who created the cover for this season’s edition of SHOP Austria, has used his clever layered style to devise a perfume bottle out of which a bespoke, dreamlike scent arises, shaped into the profle of a face. Meet Austria’s fragrance masters in our feature on page 26. Karolis’s other clients include Mini Cooper, Adobe, Siemens and the Independent newspaper. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

PHOTO: SVEN ESELGROTH

ILLUSTRATION: KAROLIS STRAUTNIEKAS – FOLIO ART

CONTRIBUTORS

Josh Sims For this edition of SHOP Austria, freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims meets heritage shoemaker Ludwig Reiter. As well as writing for SHOP, he contributes to publications including the Financial Times, Independent, Observer, Wallpaper and Esquire. Josh’s latest book is Icons of Women’s Style, published in April 2015. globalblue.com

Gemma Latham Gemma Latham is SHOP’s commercial editor. The former editor of StyleEtc magazine, she has interviewed a host of designers, including Mary Katrantzou, Antonio Berardi and Fei Liu, and covered fashion news and events in the UK, Europe and Asia. Gemma loves reading, travelling and taking pictures.

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Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Karolis Strautniekas - Folio Art Contributors Shitika Anand, Maria Kirchen-Hill, Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Production assistant Katie Muxworthy Features editor Verity Hogan City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Fashion and news intern Rebecca Fearn Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/ deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Sarah Walker Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, George Trinick Artworking intern Samantha Junak

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Our stores in the City Center: enter: Graben 17, 1010 Wien, Kärntner Straße 5, 1010 Wien | Kärntner Straße 37, 3 , 1010 Wien, Rotenturmstraße 5-9, 1010 Wien | Rotenturmstraße otenturmstraße 27, 27 1010 Wien Mariahilfer Strasse 32, 1070 Wien | Mariahilfer Strasse 109, 1070 107 Wien

CONTENTS p.38

P RO D U C T S 14 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Austria this season 16 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N EWS 20 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Austria 22 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F E AT U R E S 26 Cover Story: City Of Fragrance Vienna’s designer fragrance labels and bespoke perfumers are attracting international attention, as Verity Hogan discovers 32 A Family Afair Heritage shoemaker Ludwig Reiter is maintaining craft traditions while evolving to attract the next generation, says Josh Sims

E X PE R I E NCE 38 Comfort Zone Thermal springs, alpine air and picturesque scenery are a relaxing combination. Theresa Harold explores Austria’s best spas 42 Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels GU I DE 47 Maps and guides to Austria’s top shops and destinations ESSENTIA LS 83 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

T R A N S L AT I O N S 84 Русский Перевод 90 美文翻译 97 SOU V E N I R 98 The essential item to bring home

Above: Austria’s world-class spas include the Parkhotel Iglis

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TIME WILL TELL Founded in 1868, Swiss watch manufacturer IWC Schafhausen has a reputation for craftsmanship and pioneering technical advances. A leader in the luxury watch industry, IWC is proud of its commitment to sustainable production and maintains partnerships with various organisations dedicated to environmental protection. For 2015, the Portugieser Chronograph remains the most popular timepiece from the covetable Portugieser collection. Available in diferent styles, it is shown here in Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 83

18-carat rose gold with a silverplated dial and a dark brown alligator leather strap. It features a 44hour power reserve when fully wound, as well as a stopwatch function with minutes and seconds. Technicalities aside, it would be safe to say that the consistent success of this model lies in its classic design and elegant proportions â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a discreet diameter of 40.9mm makes it equally suitable for both men and women. th IWC Portugieser Chronograph, â&#x201A;Ź16,700, IWC Schafhausen, Graben 12, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 1220, iwc.com for map go to page 52

PHOTO: IWC

CHECK OUT

16 | P RO D U C T S

TROPICAL TASTES Animal prints and motifs add a feminine edge to a simple jumpsuit 1

1. Cartier ring, €13,200, Cartier, Kohlmarkt 1, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 5332 2460, cartier.com

3. Bally loafers, €695, Bally, Graben 12, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 513 0550, bally.com

2. Jimmy Choo bag, €2,550, Jimmy Choo, Tuchlauben 4, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 0300, jimmychoo.com

4. Massimo Dutti jumpsuit, €165, Massimo Dutti, Kohlmarkt 9, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 0488, massimodutti.com

Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 83

PHOTOS: (1) VINCENT DE LA FAILLE © CARTIER; (2) RICHARD DAVID GREEN

18 | P RO D U C T S

GREEN AND GOLD Bright turquoise and golden accents pop against the dark navy of this cropped denim jacket 1

1. Burberry jacket, €1,450, Burberry, Kohlmarkt 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 2820, burberry.com

3. Niessing ring, €2,175, Juwelier Bosshart, Meraner Strasse, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 582374, niessing.com

2. Tom Ford lipstick, €49, Douglas, Getreidegasse 16, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 841612, tomford.com/beauty

4. Bulgari sunglasses, €300, Kastner & Öhler, Sackstrasse 7-13, 8021 Graz, +43 (0) 316 8700, kastner-oehler.at

Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 83

PHOTOS: (2) MATTHIAS HOFFMANN; (4) ANTONIO BARRELLA/STUDIO ORIZZONTE

S H O P | 19

DATE NIGHT Play down the contrasting textures of this scarf and heels with a simple sweater in warm orange

PHOTOS: (2) COSIMO SERENI/GUCCIO GUCCI S.P.A.; (3) HERANVAL.COM

1. Furla bag, €180, Boutique Waltz, Kärntner Strasse 46, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 586 9171, furla.com

3. Balmain shoes, €1,350, Balmain, Seilergasse 1, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 2523, balmain.com

2. Gucci scarf, €190, Gucci, Kohlmarkt 5, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 532 4088, gucci.com

4. Max Mara jumper, €135, Trachten Schlöbl, Hauptplatz 3, 8010 Graz, +43 (0)316 8216 1616, maxmara.com

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20 | N E W S

PHOTO: KARIN GARTNER

SHOP WINDOW

OLD-WORLD CHARM Massimo Dutti has opened its frst fagship store in Vienna, marrying the city’s oldest architecture with the brand’s contemporary outlook on design. The store’s interior pays homage to its former resident, famous 19th-century Polish composer Chopin, with a portrait and a plaque that bears his name. Urban and classic silhouettes are Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 83

juxtaposed amid the warm touches of walnut wood and cool marble of this three-foor space. The Spanish chain originally started as a menswear-only brand but, following the success of its sophisticated, timeless style, it has extended its range into womenswear and accessories and can now be found in over 70 countries around the world. sa Massimo Dutti, Kohlmarkt 9, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 0488, massimodutti.com * for map go to page 52

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AUSTRIA WELCOMES GAP As a part of a global expansion campaign, Gap has opened its frst bricks-and-mortar store in Austria. The brand is best known for its modern American-style cool and casual designs, with hooded sweatshirts, denim jackets, jeans and basic T-shirts among its bestsellers. The 500-square-metre store in Vienna stocks Gap Kids, Baby Gap, menswear and womenswear to ensure that each family member walks out with something to suit them. To stand out in this new market, the retailer has some very bold plans for advertising, so keep your eyes open. sa Gap, Donauzentrum Mall, Wagramer Strasse 81-83, 1220 Vienna, +43 (0)1 203 9638, gap.com

LIGHT AS A FEATHER The Silhouette Sun Collection 2015, the latest line from sunglasses brand Silhouette, ofers minimalist, unisex designs. Key pieces include the Titan Minimal Art Ultra Thin sunglasses, the lightest sunglasses in the world, as well as the special-edition models designed by fashion duo Felder Felder. Silhouette is known for its innovative and lightweight designs. Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 83

S H O P | 23

PHOTO: CHRISTIAN BORTH

SALAMANDER STYLE

The company began in 1964 with the concept of glasses as a decorative accessory, and has since become one of the world’s leading producers of high-quality sunglasses. Silhouette makes its pieces in Austria; they are predominantly handmade, always crafted with great attention to detail, and are exported to an impressive 100 countries worldwide. rf Mirabell Optik, Franz-Josef-Strasse 33, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 8734120, silhouette.com globalblue.com

Established in 1904, Salamander is a heritage German brand producing high-quality shoes, bags and accessories for men, women and children. For spring/summer, the brand has focused on sumptuous suede, metallic leathers and contrasting colourful laces. The result is a fashion-forward – yet comfortable – collection of footwear that will prove indispensable to your wardrobe. In 2005, Salamander unveiled a new, state-of-the-art store design to cement its position as a serious contender on the international scene. th Salamander, Maria-Theresien-Strasse 1, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)1815 8508 1111, salamander.at * for map go to page 78

24 | N E W S

INDIAN SUMMER

CLOSED OPENS IN VIENNA Youthful denim-based brand Closed has opened a store in Vienna. Known for its eclectic mix of sportswear and denim, along with other stylish pieces, Closed has increasingly become the go-to label for those seeking a fresh and efortless look. The new Vienna branch follows the brand’s Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 83

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

This season’s Louis Vuitton menswear collection has been inspired by the luxurious palaces and resorts of India at the beginning of the 20th century, following a trip to the country by the label’s menswear style director Kim Jones. Silhouettes refect those of 1930s military clothing, while the collection is set in hues of dusky oranges and khaki with bursts of hot pink contrasting with deep navy. Impressive details, including intricately engraved mirror plating, embossed buttons, and cotton and silk Airtex jacket linings, are the result of Jones’s extensive fabric research and mark this season’s menswear collection as one of Louis Vuitton’s best crafted to date. rp Louis Vuitton, Tuchlauben 3-7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 6151, louisvuitton.com * for map go to page 52 minimalistic aesthetic, featuring pure white décor and light wood. Accessories lie on wooden tables, while spotlighting and mirrors add a modern dimension. Visitors to Vienna should not miss the opportunity to discover this popular brand’s accessible, highquality clothing. rf Closed, Brandstätte 8, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 0545, closed.com * for map go to page 53

S H O P | 25

TOP 3: INNSBRUCK CONCEPT STORES

THE KEY TO VIENNA

If you’re looking for something a little different, check out some of Innsbruck’s intriguing independent stores. From ready-to-wear to home accessories, you’re sure to find something new and unique to take away.

PHOTO: DANIEL SACK

The Vienna Card is a must-buy for visitors to the Austrian capital. It ofers free travel on public transport across Vienna for 48 or 72 hours, as well as more than 210 discounts at museums, attractions, theatres, concerts, shops, cafés and restaurants. Prices start at just €18.90 per adult and each adult card also entitles one child up to the age of 15 to travel free alongside the card-holder on the underground, trams and buses. Pick up your Vienna Card from your hotel, from one of the tourist information ofces at Vienna’s airport or main railway station, or from Wiener Linien sales points across the city. hl wienkarte.at

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Resort Locals often refer to Resort as the best store in the city. Its beautiful selection comprises natural cosmetics, home accessories and vintage furniture. The space doubles as a photographic art gallery, so you never know what you’re going to see on your next visit. Resort, Erlerstrasse 10, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 567232, resort-innsbruck.eu

Gschwantler Offering high-end fashion alongside hand-picked lifestyle accessories, this Innsbruck store is one of family-owned Gschwantler’s four locations across Austria. Each has a slightly different focus, but the underlying concept is always everyday luxury. Gschwantler, Marktgraben 17, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0) 512 567198, gschwantler.com

Feinheiten Owner Marianne Ecker has a real knack for making people feel at home, so stepping into her charming store is always a pleasure. Great service is coupled with a delightful array of wares, from pieces for the home to clothing – many items are made locally in Innsbruck. Feinheiten, Pfarrgasse 8, 6020 Innsbruck, +43 (0)512 908026, feinheiten-innsbruck.at

S H O P | 27

CITY OF FRAGRANCE

PHOTO: STEFAN ARMBRUSTER

Vienna’s historic association with fragrance is undergoing a renaissance, with designer labels and bespoke perfumers attracting international attention, as Verity Hogan discovers

‘There are ingredients in the fragrance that cost more than gold,’ notes Hermann Fankhauser of fashion label Wendy & Jim. The perfume in question, Drop No 01, is one of several new fragrances creating a buzz around Vienna’s scent scene. The city has enjoyed a long association with perfumery and the Habsburg era 84 / 97

in particular was known for the production of fne fragrances. Today, the city’s scent options range from historic formulations based on original recipes to modern interpretations of past perfumes and totally original new blends. Wendy & Jim is a prime example of Vienna’s modern perfumers. The label’s clothing Lef: Wendy & Jim Drop No 01 eau de parfum

28 | F E AT U R E S

collections for both men and women have caused waves in the Austrian fashion industry and its debut unisex fragrance is similarly distinctive. ‘It has a foral tone that carries you to the deeper notes of the fragrance, where a more earthy, dark and sexy base surrounds you,’ Fankhauser explains. ‘It’s a description that could also apply to our fashion.’ Drop No 01 also stands out from the crowd by being one of the

only fragrances on the market to be made from mainly natural and organic ingredients, as well as ofering one of the most unusual bottles on the market. The designers partnered historic Austrian porcelain manufacturer Augarten to create an individual bottle modelled on a fox’s skull. ‘When we thought about a bottle we knew it should be a luxurious bottle for a very expensive perfume,’ says Fankhauser. ‘A fox is a beautiful

Above (from top): Indian jasmine is at the heart of Wendy & Jim’s Drop No 01 fragrance; the brand’s distinctively presented eau de parfum

PHOTO: STEFAN ARMBRUSTER

PHOTO: DINESH VALKE CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

S H O P | 29

and smart animal and Augarten was the perfect partner for this project – it’s been very successful, we ofer four diferent versions already.’ In contrast, WienerBlut is one of the fragrance houses blurring the lines between historic and contemporary scents. The label has found great success in adapting imperial-era fragrances to suit a modern audience, although it’s not afraid to break with tradition when necessary. ‘We basically ignore trends and create what we like, usually with a bold innovative twist,’ explains company founder Alexander Lauber. ‘Sometimes historic with a new twist can be much more modern than modern.’ The company’s fragrance series is based on the original Taschentuch-Parfums, some of the most popular perfume recipes of 19th-century Vienna. Each scent is manufactured from the most luxurious raw materials available and is the result of extensive research. Lauber was surprised

Contemporary perfumers are bringing fresh life to Vienna’s historic fragrance industry

PHOTO: JOSEF GASSEBNER/ROTFILTER GMBH

30 | F E AT U R E S

to fnd that many historic fragrances were extremely innovative. ‘What I fnd really interesting is that even with the limited possibilities [of the time], a lot of perfume making was already about telling stories and tapping into dreams and fantasies,’ he says. In the same way that certain scents capture the popular imagination today, imperial perfumers were also heavily infuenced by contemporary trends. ‘During the Belle Époque, when sea bathing became hugely popular, there were dozens of ocean-themed fragrances, even though actual marine accords didn’t exist yet,’ notes Lauber. ‘One of our new fragrances – Sale Marino – is actually dedicated to that era and is inspired by the

imperial Austrian Riviera, which today is part of Italy and Croatia. This region is known as the coast of laurels, which is why we feature laurel as a top note.’ WienerBlut’s packaging is subjected to the same attention to detail as its fragrances. The company uses elegant bottles, crafted from high-quality, hand-fnished glass and topped with Bakelite caps; labels are applied by hand. ‘The elegance and craftsmanship of our bottles refects how much thought, time and efort we put into creating each fragrance,’ explains Lauber. ‘Of course, there are slight irregularities when it’s not all done by machines and robots, but that makes the object even more charming – each one is unique.’

Above (clockwise from top lef): perfumer Yogesh Kumar; WienerBlut Sale Marino eau de parfum; Yogesh perfumes; Lena Hoschek Love Rose perfume

S H O P | 31

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) LUPI SPUMA

If you are looking for a truly unique perfume, Yogesh Kumar is one of Vienna’s most talented perfumers and has been creating bespoke scent compositions for the past 23 years. Kumar uses clients’ natural chemistry as a base for his blends and ofers four diferent samples to test over time before the fnal fragrance is chosen. The re-

sult is a scent that perfectly suits the wearer – and one that they won’t fnd being worn by anyone else. Yogesh Kumar, WienerBlut and Wendy & Jim are just a few of the perfumers injecting fresh life into Vienna’s historic fragrance industry. Others include fashion designers such as Lena Hoschek who are making their frst forays into the feld. Historic companies such as JB Filz – which still carries perfumes that date back to 1892 – continue to maintain a strong presence. The city’s scent scene is as strong as ever and looks set to continue that way wendyjim.com, wienerblut.at, dasparfum.com, lenahoschek.com, parfumerie-flz.at

32 | F E AT U R E S

A FAMILY

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Above: Ludwig Reiterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s standards are still as high as they were when this vintage photo was taken

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AFFAIR

PHOTO: LUDWIG REITER

Heritage shoemaker Ludwig Reiter is maintaining Viennese craft traditions while evolving to attract the next generation, says Josh Sims

Ludwig Reiter is the last bastion of a proud tradition of Viennese shoemaking – and all the more special for that. ‘We’re the only bench-made shoemakers left in Vienna,’ says Till Reiter, the fourthgeneration head of the family company. ‘That’s sad, and it also makes business complicated. There used to be more suppliers,

machine-makers, labour and know-how. It’s not easy to fnd people to do the complex handwork involved in making our shoes.’ Indeed, as Reiter explains, back in his grandfather’s day – the 1920s and 30s – Vienna was a European fashion hub, backed by traditional craft skills. ‘It had real international infuence in matters of style, and was a very multicultural place. Now Austria – like England and Italy – remains one of the few countries still active in benchmade shoe-making.’ As the term bench-made suggests, Ludwig Reiter shoes are made, quite literally, at benches

by craftspeople. The manufacture requires at least 200 separate operations, including Goodyear welting, which stitches the upper to the sole using a leather band, forming a barrier impermeable to water, and also making the soles endlessly replaceable. The shoes have been made in the same way since the

Above (from top): a welt is atached to a leather upper using the famous Goodyear machine; Ludwig Reiter ladies’ Meternich slip-on shoes

PHOTOS: LUDWIG REITER

34 | F E AT U R E S

S H O P | 35

Ludwig Reiter’s distinctive styles are instantly recognisable to connoisseurs

frst Ludwig Reiter, a master shoemaker from Bohemia, founded the company 130 years ago. Such manufacture tends to lend itself to classic styles, which is why Ludwig Reiter shoes often make an appearance in period theatre and flm productions, most recently 2014’s Houdini mini-series starring Adrien Brody. But classic, as Till Reiter notes, ‘isn’t something that stays static for eternity, but which evolves through use. People used to walk a lot more, so today shoes don’t have to be so sturdy. Or hard to break in – it can be difcult to explain to someone who only walks between their car and their

desk that, once broken in, bench-made shoes are extremely comfortable.’ This is not to say that Ludwig Reiter shoes aren’t distinctive: Till Reiter distinguishes them as being typically narrower and more asymmetric than their English counterparts, and refecting diferent traditions of patterns and detailing. The company’s most famous styles – particularly recognisable to Viennese connoisseurs – include the Budapester brogue, with its Derby-style lacing, and the practical Maronibrater boot with its traditional felt top, based on the winter boots that Alpine forest workers wore a century ago.

Above (from lef): Ludwig Reiter shoes were worn in the Houdini mini-series starring Adrien Brody; the brand’s Budapester box calf leather brogues

36 | F E AT U R E S

More unexpectedly – ‘appealing to the kind of person who really doesn’t want to break his shoes in,’ jokes Reiter – the company also makes old-school trainers, which have found a revived credibility thanks to a collaboration with Austrian fashion designer Helmut Lang. These were frst designed in the 1970s as a PT shoe for the Austrian army, ‘although today they’re made to a higher standard and in much better leathers,’ Reiter notes. The strips on the side were once functional – providing support for the lacing and the right amount of structure for what was originally an unlined shoe. Those strips would become the stripes that are now a familiar aesthetic touch on many sports shoe designs.

Reiter concedes that the number of people buying Goodyear-welted shoes for their construction benefts may be in decline, but the company is, conversely, selling more shoes to people who recognise that ‘good shoes are an important element of good dress.’ To this end Ludwig Reiter is this year launching a new line with the same production standards but in more afordable materials. It is, Reiter says, a way of introducing Viennese shoes to a new generation. And, perhaps one day, to a new generation of Reiters: a ffth generation is already working for the company. ‘I actually had ideas other than joining the family company,’ says Till Reiter. ‘I trained in economics and wanted to go into science, but I was the frst of my broth-

Above (clockwise from top lef): Ludwig Reiter CEO Till Reiter; the brand’s Wiener brogues in maroon calf leather; the Vienna fagship; vintage In Männer Vogue cover featuring the brand’s trainers

PHOTOS: LUDWIG REITER

Ludwig Reiter is introducing its top-quality shoes to a new generation

PHOTO: LUDWIG REITER

S H O P | 37

ers to fnish his studies so my father picked me to take over. But I really enjoy it, especially because it’s a family business. Family businesses are good – they take a longer perspective. They keep staf on in difcult times because they know it will be hard to fnd their skills again later, especially in shoemaking. And they are not necessarily even that interested in maximising proft.’ Thankfully Ludwig Reiter does well on that score. It has 15 of its own stores in Austria, Germany, Switzerland and Great Britain, as well as being widely stocked internationally, which has allowed it to survive where so many other Viennese shoemakers have not. The city’s reputation for style lives on ludwig-reiter.com

38 | E X P E R I E N C E

COMFORT ZONE Thermal springs, alpine air and picturesque scenery are a relaxing combination. Theresa Harold explores Austria’s best spas

Spas have always been known for their health benefts – but not always for their comfort. That has changed in recent decades, and sparse decor and even sparser rations have given way to the luxurious spa experience. While the emphasis is still frmly on wellbeing and health, the glow that comes from a modern spa experience comes from enjoyglobalblue.com

ment as well as from the wide range of treatments on ofer. Austria’s long-standing spa culture was once a relaxation for the country’s emperors and you can follow in their footsteps. Whether you choose to visit a Viennese thermal spa or opt for an ayurvedic treatment in the Alps, your body – and mind – will thank you for it.

S H O P | 39

PA R K H O T E L IG L S Having scooped the coveted Most Efective Medi-Spa prize in the 2015 CondĂŠ Nast Traveller Spa Awards, the Parkhotel Igls is not resting on its laurels. Known for pioneering the Modern Mayr method, it recently introduced

a new Mayr De-Stress programme. An idyllic setting, state-of-the-art facilities and a focus on regeneration make this an ideal destination for those in need of a full-body overhaul. Parkhotel Igls, Igler Strasse 51, 6080 Innsbruck-Igls, +43 (0)512 377305, parkhotel-igls.at

PHOTO: MICHAEL HUBER/HUBER-FOTOGRAFIE.AT

40 | E X P E R I E N C E

AY U RV E DA R E SORT SONNHOF

PHOTO: PALAIS HANSEN KEMPINSKI VIENNA

The Sanskrit for health translates as ‘resting one’s self’ and this stunning resort with a view of the Wilder Kaiser mountains certainly encourages that. Using a holistic system of European ayurveda to suit the alpine latitude,

the Ayurveda Resort Sonnhof offers a range of detoxifcation and stress-reduction treatments. The cuisine has been adapted to European tastes while remaining true to ayurvedic nutritional principles. Ayurveda Resort Sonnhof, Hinterthiersee 16, 6335 Thiersee, Tyrol, +43 5376/5502, sonnhof-ayurveda.at

K E M P I N S K I T H E S PA Located in the Palais Hansen Kempinski Vienna hotel, Kempinski The Spa is open to day visitors as well as hotel guests. Decorated in a sumptuous mix of 1920s-style Viennese glass art and Ottomanstyle lamps, the spa boasts a heated globalblue.com

hydro pool, steam room and biosauna. Treatments are grouped according to the season and desired efect, so it’s worth a return trip to sample the full range. Kempinski The Spa, Palais Hansen Kempinski Vienna, Schottenring 24, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 236 1000 8090, kempinski.com/wien

PHOTO: © THERME WIEN/GERRY ROHRMOSER

S H O P | 41

THERME WIEN One of the most fashionable city spas in Europe, this 75,000-square-metre facility is laid out like a river bed, with various zones called ‘stones’ in keeping with the river theme. These diferent areas include the Beauty Stone, Sauna Stone and Fitness

Stone, and are connected by the spa’s beautiful landscaping. The pools range from 27 to 36 °C for maximum comfort and relaxation. Our advice? Go with the fow and see what you discover. Therme Wien, Kurbadstrasse 14, 1100 Vienna, +43 (0)1 680 099600, thermewien.at

42 | E X P E R I E N C E

STAY IN STYLE

PHOTO: MIKKO NIKKINEN/STORYMAKERS

The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

SCANDIC PATRIA The Scandic Patria near the shores of Lake Saimaa expertly caters to guests’ needs. The bedrooms boast bright, contemporary décor, the sauna provides a perfect place in which to relax and the restaurant globalblue.com

is one of the best in town. Visitors are within walking distance of Lappeenranta’s boutiques, while Myllymäki’s designer outlets are a fve-minute drive away. Scandic Patria Hotel, Kauppakatu 21, 53100 Lappeenranta, +358 (0)5 677511, scandichotels.com

PHOTO: IDHA LINDHAG

E X P E R I E N C E | 43

HTL KUNGSGATAN When visiting Stockholm for a shopping trip, the centrally located HTL Kungsgatan is the ideal place in which to stay. The hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interior is modern and minimalist while staf members are endlessly

accommodating. Start the day by selecting from the breakfast bufet and return to the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurant for dinner; the charcuterie plate, fsh soup and minute steaks are menu highlights. HTL Kungsgatan, Kungsgatan 53, 111 22 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 4108 4150, htlhotels.com

44 | E X P E R I E N C E

URSO HOTEL & SPA Located within a neo-classical 20th-century palace, the Urso Hotel & Spa features a refreshingly bright and modern interior. The hotel provides respite from the city centre while also being within easy walking distance of some of Madrid’s fnest shops and attractions. A relaxed ambience is created through the muted décor globalblue.com

while the carefully chosen furnishings have a period feel. Be sure to visit the well-appointed spa with its three treatment rooms, a hammam steam bath, hydrotherapy pool and treatments incorporating products by interationally renowned skincare specialist Natura Bissé. Urso Hotel & Spa, Mejía Lequerica 8, 28004 Madrid, +34 91 444 4458, hotelurso.com

S H O P | 45

PERA PALACE HOTEL JUMEIRAH Famous guests such as Agatha Christie, Greta Garbo and Alfred Hitchcock have stayed at the Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah, which still captivates visitors today. Sample an Apple Fantasy tea and a Paristanbul pastry at Patisserie de Pera on the ground foor before going up to your room in the frst lift in-

stalled in Istanbul. Be sure to visit the sumptuous Agatha Restaurant and Orient Bar, inspired by Christie’s legacy, during your stay. The hotel’s tranquil spa is the perfect place in which to relax after a day visiting the city’s bustling bazaars and luxury malls. Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 52, Beyoğlu, Istanbul, +90 (0)212 377 4000, jumeirah.com

G U I D E | 47

GUIDE

PHOTO: INNSBRUCK TOURISM/CHRISTOF LACKNER

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Austria with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the best boutiques to the must-see attractions. Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/austria.

A GLIMPSE OF AUSTRIA Above: Innsbruck’s picturesque old town

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Kempinski The Spa Relax and revive in the heart of Vienna at this opulent spa. Kempinski The Spa, Palais Hansen Kempinski Vienna, Schottenring 24, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 236 1000 8090, kempinski.com/wien featured on page 40

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Louis Vuitton The summer menswear collection takes inspiration from the magnificent architecture of 20th-century India. Louis Vuitton, Tuchlauben 3-7, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 533 6151, louisvuitton.com featured on page 24

* 3

VIENNA STATE OPERA

Massimo Dutti Discover the international fashion brand’s first flagship store in Vienna. Massimo Dutti, Kohlmarkt 9, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 535 0488, massimodutti.com featured on page 20

ST. STEPHEN'S CATHEDRAL

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SHOP HIGHLIGHTS

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Ludwig Reiter Explore Austrian shoemaker Ludwig Reiter’s heritage and admire its finely crafted footwear. Ludwig Reiter, Wiedner Hauptstrasse 41, 1040 Vienna, +43 (0)1 505 8258, ludwig-reiter.com featured on page 32

A ﬁrst-class shopping experience at attractive prices. Discover international brands and regional highlights in our Heinemann Duty Free shops at Vienna, Graz, Linz and Salzburg Airports. You can look forward to browsing elegant fragrances, high-quality cosmetics, exquisite spirits, ﬁne food, regional specialities and you can even save up to 30 % with our Special Offers!

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Scan and discover ﬁrst-class offers.

52 | G U I D E

Kohlmarkt, Naglergasse, Wallnerstrasse, Habsburgergasse & Kärntner Strasse ●

CA VA LL M I IU EG M NA IU VA A V E ● E T LE N R GL N O E N BE ER T I TA ● NO ● AU GA BR HL ● ● JOSEPH ● S S ● PRADA UC AN AM T E DS IC IS TÄ ● BRÜHL & SÖHNE M ● CHANEL TT EN BLACK DIAMOND ● ● COLLI AS E T ● ELLA VIENNA BRÜHL ● S K E ● LOUIS VUITTON P.24 BURBERRY ● AR THOMAS SABO ● M BREGUET ● N ER JA DOLCE & GABBANA ● ● AKRIS ● SO ● C M ● B A IR GO ● G R RT DIOR ● GO ● J. IO EIT IER LD TT ● CH B E RG LIN SC ST ● D A R IO G TIFFANY & CO. ● ’A N G A ● R. F HM DIESEL ● GR ● G OG MB EL ER RM BU A IE ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ● ● S U A R A D ● L E C H CCI L O S N CH I BE GA ● SA K U L IO H N TOMMY HILFIGER ● ● C I L AN SS ● H H LV F F I N CHOPARD ● DL E ● M Ä E G AT OPTIK PILWEIN ● UN ● M O NM M I N I O R P A E ANTIK JUWELEN ● G ● RIO ● FR S CL ER FE LORO PIANA ● C ● RO E Y SIM ER L E R RR ON IT TA O SCHULLIN ● ● SU Z ● IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN P.14 Y AG CE ● A E G D FREY WILLE ● AM & UT PT H D N SA T B T ● O O NA NA & F NESPRESSO ● ● GERRY WEBER ST O ● G EU S EU G M ISC ERN I OR IC H ● STEFANEL LO N O L A E H A M D T P.2 DE TL F S CECCONI ● EL EIS 0 N EM PL EN PE TE ● SCHEER ● OMEGA AN TK R ● WMF KL OV ● HUMANIC P.60 JUWELIER BUCHERER ●

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S H O P | 53

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VERSACE ●

● SWATCH KNIZE ● ●CAMPER BALLY ● IWC ● PAUL & SHARK ●

WEMPE Wempe is on a mission to keep watch lovers happy with the latest addition to its Zeitmeister line. The new fagship style, the Wempe Zeitmeister Glashütte i/SA Chronograph Mondphase Vollkalender, combines two of the most popular horological features of previous styles, a chronograph and a full calendar including moon phase rank to chart the lunar cycle. Other highlights include a 24-hour display and a pleasingly practical date display made up of a circle of dates that surrounds the dial. Once completed, each timepiece must undergo a rigorous 15-day testing procedure and is only approved if it reaches Wempe’s exacting standards.

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Wempe, Kärntner Strasse 41, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 3322, wempe.com

ST STEPHEN’S CATHEDRAL Stephansplatz

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ECCO Store Vienna · Kärntner Straße 47 · 1010 Vienna · +43 1 512 2962

ecco.com

60 | G U I D E

This fne-dining Japanese brasserie and bar ofers an interesting contrast to traditional Austrian dishes. Shiki opened early this year and takes its name from the Japanese terms for both ‘four seasons’ and ‘conducting’. Diners can expect a seasonally tailored menu as well as classics such as wagyu beef, sashimi and tempura. Don’t miss the bar food, which includes playful, lighter bites like tonkatsu sandwich and sushi pizzetta.

BUCHERER Heritage watchmaker H Moser & Cie and fne jeweller Bucherer have a lot in common. These independent companies from German-speaking areas of Switzerland were founded in the 19th century and so it is natural that they are long-time collaborators. Their most recent project – an addition to the existing Venturer line – is the Venturer Small Seconds Bucherer Edition. In white gold and with a 1960s convex design, the watch is inspired by H Moser & Cie’s historic pocket watches. Be sure to seek out this watch while in Vienna, as it is exclusively available in Bucherer boutiques in Germany, Switzerland and Austria.

globalblue.com

Shiki, Krugerstrasse 3, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 7397, shiki.at * for map go to page 52

PHOTO: BRUNO KLOMFAR

SHIKI

Bucherer, Kärntner Strasse 2, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 512 6730, bucherer.com * for map go to page 52

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Find us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/gerryweber.fashion www.gerryweber.com WIEN · SALZBURG · ZELL AM SEE · GRAZ · LINZ · KLAGENFURT · SPITTAL INNSBRUCK · WÖRGL · VELDEN · VILLACH · WELS · TELFS · VÖLS · KREMS ST. PÖLTEN · RIED · BREGENZ · BÜRS · OUTLET PARNDORF

G U I D E | 65

BANG & OLUFSEN

speakers. The new BeoLab 17 speakers, most recently reinvented in a matte black fnish, are beautifully minimalist, crafted from a single piece of extruded aluminium. With their Bluetooth wireless connectivity they can be used throughout your home, ensuring you are surrounded by premium sounds whatever you’re doing. Bang & Olufsen, Greisburger, Schwarzstrasse 6, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 640654, bang-olufsen.com

When it comes to sound, Danish audio expert Bang & Olufsen knows its stuf. The company not only creates some of the best-quality headphones and home audio systems in the world, but also prides itself on pushing the boundaries of premium sound. It’s no surprise, then, that Bang & Olufsen has launched the world’s frst high-end, compact wireless

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66 | G U I D E 3. Café Tomaselli There has been a café on the site where Café Tomaselli stands for over 300 years. The Kiosk, a shaded garden area, is a must-visit during the summer months. Café Tomaselli, Alter Markt 9, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 844 4880, tomaselli.at for map go to page 65

TOP 3 AFTERNOON TEA SPOTS 1. Café Sacher One of Salzburg’s oldest cafés, Café Sacher has been in operation since 1886. Enjoy a slice of the famous Sacher-torte on the sunny terrace. Café Sacher, Hotel Sacher Salzburg, Schwarzstrasse 5-7, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 889770, sacher.com for map go to page 62

PHOTO: © WIENTOURISMUS/PETER KOLLER

2. Konditorei Ratzka The sweet treats produced by the Ratzka family are considered some of the best in Austria and the marillenfleck (apricot cake) is well-known for very good reason. Konditorei Ratzka, Imbergstrasse 45, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 640024 for map go to page 62

UHREN SIEGL ●

ONE NEW

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S H O P | 67 3. Salzburger Mozartkugeln These chocolate, marzipan and nougat confections, named after the composer, are a must-try and can be found at confectionery stores across the city.

TOP 3 MOZART ATTRACTIONS 1. Mozarts Geburtshaus Begin your tour at the house where the composer was born in 1756 and spent his early life. Admire the musical prodigy’s childhood instruments and enjoy three different exhibitions. Mozarts Geburtshaus, Getreidegasse 9, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 844313, mozarteum.at/museen/mozartsgeburtshaus for map go to page 62

PHOTO: TOURISMUS SALZBURG

2. Mozart-Wohnhaus Move on to Mozart’s residence, also known as the Tanzmeisterhaus, which is now a museum. Mozart Wohnhaus, Makartplatz 8, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 8742 2740, mozarteum.at for map go to page 62

Getreidegasse

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● DENK STEI N ● TOM MY HILFIGER ● SOU VENIRS & GESCHENK E ● LANA STRICKW AREN ● GEOX ● TRACHTEN WEN GER ● ENNSMAN N ● DAN TENDORFE R ● STEN DERS ● STAS SNY ● SPER ER ● G7 LIFE STYL E ● LOUIS VUIT TON ● JUW ELEN HAA SMA NN ● FURS & FASHION ● AIRFIELD ● ZWIL LING J.A. HENCKELS

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Above: bust of Mozart, Salzburg

PALMERS ●

DANTENDORFER ●

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68 | G U I D E

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» GRAZ – AUSTRIA’S CAPITAL OF CULINARY DELIGHTS « All partner restaurants of the capital of culinary delights have one thing in common: they share the passion for regional products. And the creativity for new interpretation of traditional recipes: AIOLA IM SCHLOSS SANKT VEIT, Andritzer Reichstraße 144 AIOLA UPSTAIRS, Schlossberg 2 AUSTRIA TREND HOTEL EUROPA GRAZ Bahnhofgürtel 89 CAFÉ PROMENADE Erzherzog-Johann-Allee 1 CAFÉ RESTAURANT SORGER, Sporgasse 4 DELIKATESSEN FRANKOWITSCH, Stempfergasse 2-4 DER STEIRER, Belgiergasse 1 DREIZEHN GENUSSBAR, Franziskanerplatz 13

KITCHEN 12, Kaiser Josef Platz 3 LANDHAUS-KELLER Schmiedgasse 9 LA ENOTECA, Sackstraße 14 PRATO IM PALAIS, Sackstraße 16 RESTAURANT CARL Opernring 5a RESTAURANT FLORIAN IM ROMANTIK PARKHOTEL Leonhardstraße 8 RESTAURANT IM CAFÉ SACHER, Herrengasse 6 RESTAURANT TAFELZIMMER IM HOTEL NOVAPARK Fischeraustraße 22

ECKSTEIN, Mehlplatz 3

REVITA GASTRONOMIE & CASINO RESTAURANT Sparkassenplatz 1

EDLER’S CATERING Alte Universität

SAN PIETRO St. Peter Hauptstraße 141

FREIBLICK BY ECKSTEIN Dachterrasse K&Ö/Sackstr. 7-13

SCHLOSSBERG, Schlossberg 7

GLÖCKL BRÄU Glockenspielplatz 2-3

STARCKE HAUS, Schlossberg 4

STAINZERBAUER, Bürgergasse 4

GÖSSERBRÄU Neutorgasse 48

TONI LEGENSTEIN CATERING, www.tonilegensteincatering.at

KIRCHENWIRT MARIATROST Kirchplatz 9

ZUR STEIRERSTUB’N Lendplatz 8

www.genusshauptstadt.at

72 | G U I D E

Z ZEGNA

digitally printed hooded anoraks and textured knitted cardigans in a palette of emerald greens and deep blues with fashes of metallics and neon, and even the more traditional two-button sports jackets and tailored trousers are designed to be worn with on-trend sneakers. Kastner and Öhler, Sackstrasse 7-13, 8010 Graz, +43 (0)316 870 3000, zegna.com

Ermenegildo Zegna, one of the most esteemed textile manufacturers in the world, understands tailoring perfectly. However, at its debut show this season at Pitti Uomo, Florence men’s fashion week, the brand’s directional ready-to-wear line Z Zegna eschewed the formalities of traditional tailoring for an altogether more sporting aesthetic. The collection ventures into

Sackstrasse, Hauptplatz & Herrengasse HOFG

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SCHLOSS EGGENBERG

Schloss Eggenberg, Eggenberger Allee 90, 8020 Graz, +43 (0)316 8017 9532, museum-joanneum.at

Part of Graz’s world heritage site, Schloss Eggenberg is an integral part of the city’s history. Built in the 17th century for the imperial governor of the time, the grand style of the castle was intended as a symbol of power and legitimacy. The baroque and rococo interiors have been carefully preserved – be sure to look up while you explore, as there are over 500 ceiling paintings from the 17th century to admire.

Hans Sachs Gasse, Stubenberggasse, Kaiserfeldgasse, Girardigasse, Opernring & Joanneumring ● CH ● IS INI ● R B L L N II ● H A CE CU SA CO U S ÖG

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Murgasse, Sporgasse, Hofgassse, Stempfergasse, Raubergasse & Schmiedgasse

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78 | G U I D E

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ACCESSORIZE BENETTON BEELINE CECIL CROCS DANILIN DEICHMANN DEPOT DOLCE VITA ESPRIT FOREVER 18 G-STAR HARTLAUER H&M HUMANIC HOME INTERIOR INTERSPORT PEEK & CLOPPENBURG S OLIVER SATURN SWATCH WMF

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Café Katzung

EINWALLER JOSEF ● SPORTALM ●

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Eduard-WallnöferPlatz

Global Blue Retailer

Tourist Information

Shopping Centre/Mall

Place Of Interest

Café

Featured In This Issue

MOMENTS OF WONDER OPEN DAILY FROM 8.00 AM TO 7.30 PM Herzog-Friedrich-Straße 39 6020 Innsbruck, Austria www.swarovski.com/innsbruck

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2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your Tax Free Forms stamped before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces. Spend a minimum of €75.01 and save up to 15% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Ofce Details Vienna Airport: Erste Bank Money Exchange, Terminal 1, Departures Interchange Austria, Transit Area Interchange Austria, Terminal 3, Departures, Non-Schengen Interchange Austria, Terminal 3, Transits/Departures, Schengen Area Downtown Vienna and Parndorf: Global Blue, Stef, Kärntner Strasse 19, 1010 Vienna Global Blue, Parndorf, Designer Outlet Strasse, 7111 Parndorf Salzburg Airport: Salzburger Sparkasse, Departures, Landside Downtown Graz: Center West Graz - Infopoint, Weblinger Gürtel 25, 8054 Graz Downtown Innsbruck: Tourismus Information, Burggraben 3, 6020 Innsbruck

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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 26: City Of Fragrance

PHOTO: JOSEF GASSEBNER/ROTFILTER GMBH

Город ароматов

Парфюмерная история Вены переживает новый виток. Верити Хоган рассказывает об авторских ароматах, получивших международное признание «Некоторые ингредиенты в составе композиций стоят дороже золота», - отмечает Германн Фангаузер, представитель бренда Wendy & Jim. Он говорит о Drop No 01 – одной из самых обсуждаемых в Вене новинок. Парфюмерная история австрийской столицы насчитывает несколько веков, и особое место в ней отведено эпохе Габсбургов. В наши дни здесь можно встретить самые globalblue.com

разные подходы к созданию духов: и воссозданные оригинальные рецепты, и современную интерпретацию классики, и совершенно новые решения. Бренд Wendy & Jim занял ведущую позицию среди венских парфюмеров. В модных кругах уже живо обсуждались коллекции мужской и женской одежды этой марки, а теперь не меньший интерес вызвал и дебютный аромат унисекс. «Цветочные нотки раскрывают более глубокие оттенки композиции, и естественная, темная, сексуальная основа мягко обволакивает вас, - объясняет Фангаузер. – Пожалуй, это применимо и к нашему стилю в одежде». В составе Drop No 01 преобладают натуральные и органические компоненты, что открывает для него совершенно новую нишу. Дизайнеры творчески подошли и к оформлению флаконов, которые вполне заслуженно можно назвать самыми оригинальными на рынке. Партнером проекта выступила старинная фарфоровая мануфактура Augarten, которая разработала бутылочки в форме лисьего черепа. «Мы изначально хотели, чтобы роскошная упаковка ассоциировалась с очень дорогим парфюмом, -

делится Фангаузер. – Лиса – это красивое и умное животное. А наш партнер Augarten идеально воплотил наше пожелание. Вместе мы добились успеха: теперь в нашей линии уже четыре вариации». Бренд WienerBlut предпочел другой путь: он преодолевает границы между старинными и современными композициями. Особого успеха компания добилась в адаптации имперских эссенций к потребностям современной аудитории. В то же время, она может себе позволить преодолеть традицию, если это обусловлено задачей: «Нас не интересуют тренды: мы предпочитаем создавать то, что нам нравится, и расставлять совершенно новые акценты, - объясняет основатель компании Александр Лаубер. – Иногда достаточно взглянуть на старинную композицию по-новому, чтобы она стала намного более современной, чем многое, что мы привыкли характеризовать этим словом». Серия ароматов этой марки основана на одном из самых популярных ароматов Вены 19 века Taschentuch-Parfums. Каждая эссенция составляется вручную из роскошных исходных материалов по итогам обширного анализа. Для Лаубера стало большим удивление, что духи того времени зачастую оказываются весьма новаторскими. «Мне кажется по-настоящему

интересным, что при всех технологических ограничениях того времени, многие парфюмы рассказывали истории, раскрывали мечты и фантазии», - говорит он. Аналогично тому, как определенные оттенки становятся невероятно популярными в наши дни, и в Империи на ароматы влияли актуальные тогда тренды. «Популярность морских ванн во времена Belle Époque спровоцировала появление десятков композиций на тему океана. É это притом, что современные морские сочетания еще не существовали, - отмечает Лаубер. – Наш новый аромат Sale Marino посвящен той эпохе и создан под воздействием императорской Австрийской Ривьеры, территорию которой сегодня занимают Éталия и Хорватия. Поскольку ее называют лавровым побережьем, именно душистый лавр стал доминантой». Внимание к деталям в полной мере проявилось и в дизайне упаковок WienerBlut. Элегантные флаконы из качественного стекла ручной работы украшены блестящей крышечкой и приклеенной вручную этикеткой. «Подобная изысканность призвана продемонстрировать значительность вложенных усилий, идей, времени, объясняет Лаубер. – Разумеется, не обходится без небольших

отклонений, поскольку процессом управляют не машины или роботы. Но это лишь делает каждый предмет неповторимым и, как следствие, придает очарование». Но, пожалуй, максимальной уникальности достигает Йогеш Кумар – один из самых талантливых парфюмеров Вены. Последние 23 года он создает ароматные эссенции на заказ. На основе естественной химии каждого клиента он проектирует четыре варианта. Прежде чем сделать окончательный выбор, он предлагает протестировать образцы. В результате покупатель получает не просто индивидуальный, но и идеально подходящий ему парфюм, аналогов которому в мире просто нет. Йогеш Кумар, WienerBlut и Wendy & Jim – это далеко не полный перечень тех, благодаря кому развивается современная парфюмерная история Вены. Многие только-только делают первые шаги в этой сфере, как, например, Лена Хошек. Компания с большой историей JB Filz, напротив, работает с 1892 года и продолжает поддерживать устойчивую репутацию. Словом, история венской авторской парфюмерии совершает новый виток и, похоже, не собирается останавливаться на достигнутом. wendyjim.com, wienerblut.at, dasparfum.com, lenahoschek.com, parfumerie-flz.at globalblue.com

32: A Family Afair

Семейное дело Джош Симс рассказывает об обувной мануфактуре Ludwig Reiter, которая не только с почтением сохраняет венские ремесленные традиции, но и продолжает развиваться, вызывая интерес нового поколения Ludwig Reiter воплощает лучшие традиции венских обувщиков. «Наша компания – последняя историческая мануфактура обуви, сохранившаяся в Вене, объясняет Телль Райтер, глава семейного предприятия уже в четвертом поколении. – Это не просто печальный факт, но и усложняющий нашу работу фактор. Раньше было больше поставщиков, станочников, рабочих и мастеров. А теперь не так просто найти людей, способных профессионально выполнять сложные манипуляции». По словам Райтера, во времена его деда, то есть в 1920-30-е годы, Вена была настоящим модным центром Европы, в том числе – благодаря традиционным ремеслам: «Австрийская столица заметно влияла на мировую моду, здесь сталкивались самые разные культуры. Сейчас Австрия, как и Англия или Италия, - одна из немногих стран, где до сих пор хранятся и поддерживаются исторические традиции ремесленного обувного дела».

PHOTO: LUDWIG REITER

На английском языке обувь ручной работы самого высокого качества называется bench-made – в дословном переводе «сделанная на скамье обувщика». Так и каждая пара Ludwig Reiter буквально создается на специальных скамьях квалифицированными мастерами. А ведь это не меньше 200 отдельных манипуляций! Фирменным знаком компании стал рант Goodyear, который вшивается между основной частью обуви и подошвой. Эта кожаная лента предохраняет ботинки от промокания, а также позволяет бесконечно обновлять подошву по мере необходимости. Эта технология остается неизменной уже 130 лет – со времен внедрения обувщиком из Богемии и основателем компании Людвигом Райтером I. Подобные предприятия с большой историей, как

правило, становятся оплотом классического стиля. Именно поэтому в Ludwig Reiter часто обращаются за ботинками для театральных постановок и фильмов: например, для мини-сериала 2014 года «Гудини» с Эдрианом Броуди в главной роли. Но классика, по словам Тилля Райтера, «не может быть статичной вечной»: «Она тоже развивается со временем. Люди ходят пешком намного больше, чем раньше, поэтому современная обувь не должна быть слишком плотной или устойчивой к разнашиванию. Зачастую бывает сложно доказать тем, кто перемещается только между офисом и машиной, что однажды разношенная обувь ручной работы превращается в невероятно удобную». Классичность стиля не означает, что у Ludwig Reiter нет эксклюзивных характерных черт. Тилль Райтер утверждает,

что силуэты этой марки более узкие и ассиметричные, чем английские, кроме того, у компании собственные традиции отделки. Среди самых востребованных моделей Ludwig Reiter знатоки венского стиля особенно выделяют броуги Budapester с открытой шнуровкой-дерби и практичные сапоги Maronibrater с войлочным голенищем, напоминающие зимнюю обувь альпийских лесорубов прошлых веков. Может показаться неожиданным, что в коллекции бренда есть и классические кроссовки, переосмысленные после сотрудничества с австрийским дизайнером Хельмутом Лангом. Как шутит Райтер, «специально для тех, кто и в самом деле не хочет разнашивать обувь». Изначально в 1970-е их использовали в австрийской армии для занятий спортом. Ленты на боковой стороне служили креплением для шнурка и придавали структуру мягкой туфле. Со временем они превратились в декоративные нашивки, которые теперь ассоциируются со спортивным стилем в обуви. «Теперь спортивные туфли изготавливают из более качественной кожи по повышенному стандарту», комментирует Райтер. Современный владелец компании признает, что теперь все меньше истинных globalblue.com

ценителей конструктивных особенностей и ранта Goodyear. Но в то же время, в Ludwig Reiter приходит больше покупатели, признающих «качественную обувь важным элементом хорошего ансамбля». Поэтому компания в этом году запускает новую линию, проработанную по тем же производственным стандартам, но из более доступных материалов. По словам Райтера, так они познакомят покупателей нового времени с венской обувью. Более того, не только покупателей, но и самих Райтеров: в компании работает уже пятое поколение этой семьи. «Изначально я не собирался присоединяться к семейному делу – у меня были другие идеи, - говорит Тилль Райтер. – Я изучал

экономику и хотел заниматься наукой. Но я первым из моих братьев окончил университет, и отец решил, что мне пора управлять компанией. Теперь я на самом деле получаю удовольствие от особенностей семейного бизнеса. Ведь такие компании ориентируются на долгосрочную перспективу и берегут своих сотрудников в сложные времена. Мы точно знаем: непростой период закончится, но порванные связи будет восстановить очень непросто, особенно в сфере производства обуви. Более того, семейное предприятие, как правило, не гонится за максимально возможной прибылью». К счастью, Ludwig Reiter по-прежнему процветает, и подтверждением его успехов можно назвать 15 собственных магазинов в Австрии, Германии, Швейцарии и Великобритании. Кроме того, продукция компании продается во всем мире. Все это позволило компании выйти на новый уровень, что нечасто удается ее коллегам и конкурентам. А ведь это говорит не только о ее собственном развитии: Ludwig Reiter делает значительный вклад и в модную репутацию Вены. z§ 83: When you shop the world, shop tax free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €75.01 и сэкономьте до 15% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

90 美文翻译

26: City Of Fragrance 香水之城

维也纳当地各大设计师品牌及高级定制香水吸引了广泛的国际关注，这座城市与香水的古老关联正在复苏。Verity Hogan报道 “这款香水中的有些原料比黄金还要贵， ”时尚品牌Wendy & Jim的调香师 Hermann Fankhauser指出。他说的这款香水Drop No 01就是让维也纳香气醉人的美妙场景成为关注焦点的几款最新香水之一。这座城市历来与香水有着密不可分的关联，哈布斯堡时代尤其因制造上等香水而闻名于世。如今，从基于原始配方改造的古老剂型到对老款香水的现代诠释以及全新研制的混合香水，维也纳带来的气味之选一应俱全。 Wendy & Jim是维也纳现代香水制造商的最佳典范。Wendy & Jim的男士及女士系列服饰曾在奥地利时装业掀起层层波浪，而该品牌首次推出 globalblue.com

的中性香水也同样与众不同。 “这款香水的前调是清新花香，它会引你感受这款香水更深层的味道，让你被一种更淳厚、更深沉、更性感的后调所包围， ”Fankhauser 解释道。 “这一描述同样适用于我们的时装。” Drop No 01之所以能够脱颖而出，还在于它是市面上仅有的几款主要用天然和有机原料制成的香水之一，亦在于它还提供了市面上最不同寻常的香水瓶。设计师与奥地利传统瓷器制造商奥格腾（Augar ten ）合作，以狐狸的头盖骨为模型，创造出了一支独特的香水瓶。 “当我们考虑香水瓶的时候，我们知道它应该是一个用来装名贵香水的奢华瓶子， ”Fankhauser 说。 “狐狸是一种美丽而狡黠的动物，而奥格腾则是这一项目的绝佳合作伙伴——我们的合作非常成功，现在已有四个不同款型。” 与之相反，WienerBlut 是让古典香味和现代气息之间的界线变得模糊的几家香水品牌之一。该品牌最擅长改造帝国时代的古老香水，使其更适合现代的用户，在必要时也不惧于打破传统。 “我们基本上不顾什么潮流，只创造我们喜欢的东西，往往加入大胆创新的特色， ”品牌创始人 Alexander Lauber解释道。 “有时加上新特色的经典产品要比现代的产品还要现代得多。” 该公司的香水系列源自于地道的 Taschentuch香水，它们都是19 世纪维也纳最受欢迎的香水配方。每一款香水都选用最奢侈名贵的原材料打造而成，也是广泛研究的成果。Lauber 惊喜地发现，许多古老的香水都极具创新色彩。 “让我感到非常有趣的是，即使在有限[时间的]可能性内，许多香水的调制都已经是在讲述故事、发掘梦与幻想， ”他说道。就像如今某些香水敏锐地捕捉着大众的想象一样，帝国时期的调香师们也深受当时潮流的影响。 “在美

PHOTOS: (FROM TOP) LUPI SPUMA; STEFAN ARMBRUSTER

好年代（Belle Époque，指一战爆发前的安定时期，亦即1871年至1914 年——译者注），海水浴大行其道，当时就出现了几十种以海洋为主题的香水，虽然那个时候都还没有真正的海洋香调， ”Lauber指出。 “我们的新款香水之一Sale Marino其实就是向那个时代致敬，它的设计灵感也正是来源于帝国时期的奥地利里维埃拉，也就是今天的意大利和克罗地亚的一部分。这一地区被称为桂冠海岸，这也就是为什么我们将月桂香作为这款香水的前调。” WienerBlut 的包装与该香水的调制一样注重细节。该品牌选用高雅别致的优质手工玻璃瓶，以巴克利特（Bakelite）瓶盖封顶；标签均由手工粘贴。 “这些体态优雅、工艺精湛的香水瓶反映了我们在调制每瓶香水的过程中投入的思考、时间和精力， ”Lauber解释道。 “当然，由于并不是用机器和机器人来完成所有工序，难免有一些细微的参差之处，但这反倒让作品更有魅力了——每一件都是独一无二的。” 如果您在物色一款真正独一无二的香水，Yogesh Kumar就是维也纳最有才华的调香师之一，过去23 年来他一直专注于打造定制香氛。Kumar 用顾客自身的天然化学气质作为其定制香水的基调，然后提供四种不同的

样本，经过一段时间的试用，再来选择最终的香水。最后的结果就是为顾客度身打造的独特香味——在其他任何人身上都闻不到同样的味道。 Yogesh Kumar、WienerBlut和 Wendy & Jim只是为维也纳古老的香水制造业注入新鲜血液的众多香水制造商之一。其他的还包括首次涉猎这一领域的Lena Hoschek等时尚设计师，而 JB Filz——该品牌至今仍坚持调制数款早在1892 年就已诞生的香水——这样的传统品牌也继续保持着强大的影响力。这座城市一如往日一样香薰醉人，也将继续让人们在这芬芳之中沉醉下去。 wendyjim.com, wienerblut.at, dasparfum.com, lenahoschek.com, parfumerie-flz.at

PHOTO: LUDWIG REITER

32: A Family Afair 家族产业老牌鞋店Ludwig Reiter发扬着维也纳的手工艺传统，也吸引着下一代人的兴趣与关注。Josh Sims报道

Ludwig Reiter是维也纳制鞋业光荣传统的最后一座堡垒— — 也正因如此，它才显得越发特殊。 “我们是维也纳目前仅有的手工鞋匠， ”这一家族企业的第四代领导人Till Reiter 说。 “ 这很令人痛心，我们的生意也因而变得麻烦起来。以前我们有更多的供应商、机器制造商、工人和有专门技艺的人。做鞋子要涉及到很多事情，要找人来干这些复杂的手工活计可并不是件简单的事儿。” 确实，诚如 T i l l 所说，在他祖父的年代— — 2 0 世纪 2 0 年代和 3 0 年代——维也纳曾依靠这些传统手工技艺成为欧洲的时尚中心。 “它在时尚界有着实实在在的国际影响力，而且 globalblue.com

这是一个多种文化交汇的地方。如今，奥地利— —就像英格兰和意大利一样——是少数几个仍然存在手工制鞋业的国家之一。” 正如手工制造（bench - made）这个术语告诉我们的，Ludwig Reiter 的鞋子的的确确就是由工匠在工作台上制造出来的。每只鞋子的生产都需要经过至少200 道工序，其中包括古德伊尔贴边（Goodyear welting），也就是用一根皮带将鞋面和鞋底缝合到一起来形成一个防水层，同时也使鞋底可以不断被更换。自从130年前来自波希米亚的鞋匠大师 Ludwig Reiter 一世创业以来，该公司就一直秉承着祖传的方式制造每一双鞋履。这样制造出来的产品自然展现出经典的风格，也正因如此，Ludw ig Reiter家的鞋履常常在古装戏剧和电影中亮相，最近例子的就是 2014 年由Adrien Brody领衔主演的胡迪尼（Houdini）迷你剧。但是经典，就如 Till Reiter所言， “并不是永远一成不

93 变的东西，而是与时俱进的。过去人们要走更多的路，所以现在的鞋子不必做得像以前那么坚固了。或者说，也没以前那么难以合脚了——你很难跟一个步行距离仅限于自己的车和办公室之间的人解释，一旦穿合脚了，手工制造的鞋子真的无比地舒服。” 并不是说 Ludwig Reiter的鞋子就没有与众不同的特色：在Till Reiter 看来，相比那些英国人做的鞋子，他们家的鞋子通常鞋身更窄，也不那么对称，这反映出了传统模型和细节处理上的差异。该公司最著名的款式—— 也是尤其被维也纳鉴定行家所熟知的——包括带有德比风格饰带的布达佩斯布洛克鞋，以及根据一个世纪之前阿尔卑山林工穿的冬靴设计的、带有毛毡鞋面的实用Maronibrater靴。更出人意料的是 — —“为了吸引那些实在懒得磨合鞋子的人， ”Reiter 开玩笑地说— —该公司现在也做老式的运动鞋，在奥地利时尚设计师 Helmut Lang的帮助下，这些鞋款重获广泛赞誉。早在 20 世纪70 年代，它们仅仅是为奥地利军方设计的训练用鞋， “而如今它们都是参照更高的标准，采用好得多的皮革制造的， ”Till 解释道。鞋身上的条纹曾经是有特定功能的——为鞋带提供支撑，并为这原本无衬里的鞋子提供适量的结构。那些布条变成了现在的条纹，成了许多运动鞋设计中广为人们熟悉的经典装饰。 Till 承认，因为古德伊尔贴边构造的优点而购买这些鞋款的人可能越来越少了；然而与此相反的是，该公司正在把更多的鞋子卖给那些认可“一双好鞋是得体装扮的重要元素”这一观点的人们。为此，本年度Ludwig Reiter发布了一条新的产品线，用同样的生产标准和更平价的材料打造经典鞋款。用Till的话说，这是向新一代人介绍维也纳鞋履的一种方式。不仅是介绍给新一代客户，或许

也是介绍给将来的新一代 Reiters 经营者：家族的第五代成员已经投入到公司的工作中来了。 “其实我还有除了加盟家族企业之外的想法， ”Till Reiter 说。 “我学过经济学，我想从事科研，但我是我们几兄弟中最先完成学业的，所以我父亲选择了我来接管公司。但我其实很喜欢这份工作，尤其是因为这是我们家族的生意。家族企业很好——他们有更长远的前景。他们会在困难时期留住老员工，因为他们知道此后很难再找回这些员工手上的技艺，尤其是在制鞋业里。家族企业甚至都不一定会那么热衷于谋取最大利润。” 谢天谢地，Ludwig Reiter在那一点上做得很好。该公司在奥地利、德国、瑞士和英国拥有15间独立门店，而其产品则被销往世界各地，也正因如此，那么多其他维也纳鞋店都倒下了，Ludwig Reiter却坚持了下来。这座城市的时尚美名也因而得以延续。 ludwig-reiter.com

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‫‪When you shop the world‬‬ ‫‪،shop tax free :83‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪،‬‬ ‫تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬

‫‪83: When you shop the world,‬‬ ‫‪shop tax free‬‬ ‫‪畅购全球，尊享退税‬‬ ‫‪当您在全球顶级购物区中的 27 万多‬‬ ‫‪家商店消费时，环球蓝联（G l o b a l‬‬ ‫‪Blue）购物退税服务（Tax‬‬ ‫‪Free‬‬ ‫。‪Shopping）为您节约购物开销‬‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة‬ ‫التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة ‪Tax Free‬‬ ‫لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من ‪270,000‬‬ ‫متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين‬ ‫يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك‬ ‫غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن‬ ‫غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا‬ ‫السهلة‪.‬‬

‫‪每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球‬‬ ‫‪蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，‬‬ ‫‪您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星‬‬ ‫‪标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联‬‬ ‫‪（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们‬‬ ‫‪简单的退税过程：‬‬

‫تس ّوق‬ ‫‪.1‬‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب‬ ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو ‪Global‬‬ ‫استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬

‫‪1. 消费购物‬‬ ‫‪无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联‬‬ ‫‪退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free‬‬ ‫。‪Form），并记得保存小票‬‬

‫أطلب‬ ‫‪.2‬‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب‬ ‫الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل‬ ‫إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫الستداد‬ ‫ّ‬

‫‪2. 申请退税‬‬ ‫‪当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城‬‬ ‫‪市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格‬‬ ‫‪上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点‬‬ ‫。‪领取您的退税款‬‬

‫للتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪111 111 232 +421‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ €75.01‬وادّخر حتّى‬ ‫‪ 15%‬من ثن مشتياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ الستداد‬

‫النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة‬ ‫عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬ف بعض‬ ‫الطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل‬ ‫طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول‬ ‫عل استداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫‪联系方式：‬‬ ‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫‪最低消费€75.01即可节约高达购买价‬‬ ‫‪格15%的税。请注意：最终退款将包‬‬ ‫‪含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续‬‬ ‫‪费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单‬‬ ‫。‪位收取现金退税手续费‬‬

‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫العريضة اليوم تشكّل لسة تجميل ّية عل‬

‫تصاميم أحذية رياضيّة كثية‪ .‬يعتف ‪Reiter‬‬

‫بانخفاض عدد الشخاص الذين يشتون أحذية‬ ‫ببطانة ‪ Goodyear‬لبنيتها الج ّيدة‪ ،‬لكن‬ ‫بالقابل تبيع أحذية أكث لشخاص يدركون "أ ّن‬ ‫الحذاء الج ّيد عنص أساس من اللّباس الج ّيد‪".‬‬ ‫ولهذا السبب‪ ،‬يُطلق ‪ Ludwig Reiter‬هذا‬ ‫العام خطّاً جديدا ً من الحذية بعايي النتاج‬ ‫نفسها لكن باستخدام مواد بأسعار أفضل‪ .‬يقول‬ ‫‪ Reiter‬إنّها طريقة لتقديم أحذية فيينا إل‬ ‫جيل جديد‪.‬‬ ‫وربا إل جيل ‪ Reiter‬جديد يوماً ما إذ يعمل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫جيل خامس لدى الشكة اليوم‪ .‬يقول ‪Till‬‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫لدي مخطّط آخر غي‬ ‫‪" :Reiter‬ف الواقع كان ّ‬ ‫النضمم إل شكة العائلة‪ .‬تد ّربت ف مجال‬ ‫القتصاد وأردت أن أدخل عال العلوم‪ ،‬لك ّنني‬ ‫كنت أ ّول من أنهى دراسته بي إخوت فاختارن‬ ‫لتول زمام المور‪ .‬أستمتع ح ّقاً بعمل‬ ‫أب ّ‬ ‫وبخاصة لنّه مشوع عائل‪ .‬الشاريع العائليّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ج ّيدة وأفقها واسعة‪ .‬تحتفظ بطاقم عملها ف‬ ‫الوقات الصعبة لنّها تدرك أنّه سيكون من‬ ‫الصعب إيجاد مهاراتهم مجدّدا ً ف ما بعد‬ ‫وبخاصة ف مجال صناعة الحذية‪ .‬حتّى أنّها ل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تطمع بالضورة بزيادة الرباح‪".‬‬ ‫لحسن الحظ‪ ،‬يفلح ‪ Ludwig Reiter‬ف هذا‬ ‫خاصاً ف النمسا‬ ‫الجال‪ .‬لدى العلمة ‪ 15‬متجرا ً ّ‬ ‫وألانيا وسويسا وبريطانيا العظمى بالضافة‬ ‫إل توافرها ف متاجر حول العال‪ ،‬ما سمح لها‬ ‫بالصمود حيث فشل الكثي من نظرائها من‬ ‫فيينا‪ .‬ما زالت الدينة تحافظ عل شهرتها‬ ‫بالسلوب الميّز‪.‬‬ ‫‪ludwig-reiter.com‬‬

‫‪PHOTO: LUDWIG REITER‬‬

‫‪ benchmade‬بالنكليزيّة أي مصنوعة عل‬ ‫كل حذاء ‪ 200‬عمل ّية‬ ‫القعد‪ .‬تتطلّب صناعة ّ‬ ‫القل‪ ،‬با فيها بُطانة ‪Goodyear‬‬ ‫منفصلة عل ّ‬ ‫التي تربط الجزء العل من الحذاء بالنعل من‬ ‫خلل شيطة جلديّة‪ ،‬ما يشكّل عازلً للمء‬ ‫ويجعل النعل قابلً للتغيي‪ .‬تُصنع الحذية بهذه‬ ‫الطريقة منذ أيّام ‪ Ludwig Reiter‬ال ّول‬ ‫وهو صانع أحذية متم ّرس من بوهيميا‪ّ ،‬أسس‬ ‫الشكة منذ ‪ 130‬سنة‪.‬‬ ‫غالباً ما يرتبط إسم هكذا مص ّنعون بالسلوب‬ ‫الكلسيك فنى أحذية ‪Ludwig Reiter‬‬ ‫ف مسارح وأفلم حقبات معيّنة‪ ،‬كان آخرها‬ ‫مسلسل ‪ Houdini‬القصي سنة ‪ 2014‬حيث‬ ‫مثّل ‪ .Adrien Brody‬لكن يشي ‪Till‬‬ ‫‪ Reiter‬أ ّن الكلسيك "ل يبقى كم هو للبد‪،‬‬ ‫بل يتط ّور مع الستخدام‪ .‬كان الناس يشون‬ ‫أكث بكثي‪ ،‬لذا من غي الضوري اليوم أن تكون‬ ‫الحذية صلبة للغاية أو من الصعب توسيعها؛‬ ‫من غي السهل أن تشح لشخص يش من‬ ‫سيّارته إل مكتبه ل غي‪ ،‬أنّه عندما يتّسع الحذاء‬ ‫الصنوع يدويّاً‪ ،‬يصبح مريحاً أكث بكثي‪".‬‬ ‫هذا ل يعني أ ّن أحذية ‪Ludwig Reiter‬‬ ‫أقل‬ ‫غي مميّزة‪ :‬يشح ‪ Till Reiter‬أنّها ّ‬ ‫عرضاً وأكث لتناظرا ً من الحذية النكليزيّة‪،‬‬ ‫كم تعكس أساليب عريقة مختلفة من‬ ‫النقوش والتفاصيل‪ .‬من أشهر أساليب الشكة‬ ‫وأفضلها لدى محبّي الحذية ف فيينا‪ ،‬حذاء‬ ‫‪ Budapester‬الز ّود بشائط بأسلوب‬ ‫‪ Derby‬وجزمة ‪ Maronibrater‬بجزئها‬ ‫العلوي من اللّباد التقليدي القتبسة من الجزمة‬ ‫عمل غابة اللب‬ ‫الشتويّة التي كان يرتديها ّ‬ ‫منذ قرن‪.‬‬ ‫يزح ‪ Reiter‬قائلً إنّه وعل عكس ما هو‬ ‫متوقّع تصنع الشكة أيضاً أحذية رياض ّية عل‬ ‫الطريقة القدية "تلقى استحسان أولئك الذين‬ ‫ل يريدون أن تتّسع أحذيتهم" وقد نجحت‬ ‫هذه الحذية بفضل تعاون الشكة مع الص ّمم‬ ‫النمساوي ‪ُ .Helmut Lang‬ص ّمم هذا‬ ‫الحذاء للم ّرة الول ف السبعينات كحذاء رياض‬ ‫للجيش النمساوي "لك ّنه يُصنع اليوم بعايي‬ ‫أعل ومن جلود أفضل بكثي"‪ .‬كان للخطوط‬ ‫العريضة عل الجانبي وظيفة وهي احتواء‬ ‫الشائط وتوفي الهيكل الطلوب لا يُعرف‬ ‫بالحذاء غي البطّن‪ .‬وباتت هذه الخطوط‬

‫‪96‬‬

‫الجمهور العاص بالرغم من عدم تردّدها ف‬ ‫التخلّ عن التقاليد عندما تدعو الحاجة‪ .‬يشح‬ ‫مؤسس الشكة ‪ Alexander Lauber‬قائلً‪:‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫نحب‬ ‫"يقوم عملنا عل تجاهل الرائج وابتكار ما ّ‬ ‫بنفحة جريئة ومبتكرة بالعادة‪ .‬أحياناً‪ ،‬قد يكون‬ ‫العطر التقليدي مع لسة جديدة أكث عصيّة‬ ‫من العطر العصي‪ ".‬تقوم سلسلة العطور‬ ‫لدى الشكة عل وصفة ‪Taschentuch-‬‬ ‫‪ Parfums‬الصليّة وهي من أشهر وصفات‬ ‫حض‬ ‫العطور ف فيينا من القرن التاسع عش‪ .‬يُ ّ‬ ‫كل شذا من أفخر الواد ال ّوليّة التوافرة بنا ًء‬ ‫عل بحث مع ّمق‪ .‬وقد تفاجأ ‪ Lauber‬عندما‬ ‫وجد أ ّن الكثي من العطور التاريخ ّية مبتكرة‬ ‫إل ح ّد كبي‪ .‬يقول ف هذا الطار‪" :‬ما أجده‬ ‫مثيا ً للهتمم هو أنّه بالرغم من المكانيّات‬ ‫الحدودة (من حيث الوقت) اشتمل جزء كبي‬ ‫من صناعة العطور عل رواية القصص والغوص‬ ‫ف الحلم والخيال‪".‬‬ ‫كم تأس بعض الروائح الخيّلة الشعبيّة اليوم‪،‬‬ ‫تأث ّر صانعو العطور الرفيعو الستوى بنزعات‬ ‫معاصة‪ .‬يذكر ‪" :Lauber‬ف خلل الزمن‬ ‫الجميل عندما شاعت السباحة ف البحر‪ ،‬ظهرت‬ ‫عدّة عطور من وحي الحيط بالرغم من عدم‬ ‫وجود خلطات فعل ّية قائة عل الروائح البحريّة‬ ‫آنذاك‪ .‬يعود أحد عطورنا الجديدة ‪Sale‬‬ ‫‪ Marino‬إل تلك الحقبة وهو مستوحى من‬ ‫الريفييا النمساويّة التي تشكّل اليوم جزءا ً من‬ ‫إيطاليا وكرواتيا‪ .‬ت ُعرف هذه النطقة بساحل‬ ‫الغار ولذلك يُستخدم الغار كرائحة أساس ّية‪".‬‬ ‫تحظى زجاجات ‪ WienerBlut‬بالهتمم‬ ‫نفسه كالعطور بح ّد ذاتها‪ .‬تستخدم الشكة‬ ‫زجاجات أنيقة من الزجاج العال الجودة‬ ‫الصنوع يدويّاً ومز ّودة بغطاء ‪Bakelite‬؛‬ ‫توضع شارة العلمة يدويّا ً‪ .‬يشح ‪Lauber‬‬ ‫قائلً‪" :‬تعكس الناقة والهارة الواضحتان ف‬ ‫زجاجاتنا التفكي والوقت والجهود البذولة‬ ‫كل عطر‪ .‬بالطبع‪ ،‬ل يخلو المر من‬ ‫لبتكار ّ‬ ‫بعض الشوائب البسيطة ف غياب اللت ورجال‬ ‫اللة‪ ،‬لكن هذا ما يزيد القطعة سحرا ً فتصبح‬ ‫كل واحدة فريدة من نوعها‪".‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫إن كنت تبحث عن عطر فريد ح ّقاً من نوعه‪،‬‬ ‫ننصحك بـ ‪ Yogesh Kumar‬وهو من أكث‬ ‫عطّاري فيينا مهارة ويركّب روائح بحسب‬ ‫الطلب منذ ‪ 23‬سنة‪ .‬يعتمد ‪ Kumar‬عل‬

‫كيمياء زبائنه الطبيعيّة ليبتكر الخليط ويقدّم‬ ‫أربع ع ّينات مختلفة لختبارها مع مرور الوقت‬ ‫قبل اختيار العطر النهائ‪ .‬فتأت النتيجة عطرا ً‬ ‫وخاصاً به‪.‬‬ ‫يلئم الشخص تاماً ّ‬ ‫وما ‪ Yogesh Kumar‬و‪WienerBlut‬‬ ‫و‪ Wendy & Jim‬إل بعض العطّارين الذين‬ ‫يبعثون حياة جديدة ف عال العطور التاريخي‬ ‫ف فيينا‪ .‬من السمء الخرى ف هذا الجال‬ ‫مص ّممي أزياء مثل ‪ Lena Hoschek‬التي‬ ‫تغزو هذا الجال للم ّرة الول‪ ،‬ف حي تحافظ‬ ‫شكات عريقة مثل ‪ JB Filz‬التي تعود عطورها‬ ‫إل سنة ‪ 1892‬عل وجودها القوي‪ .‬يتمتّع‬ ‫مجال العطور ف الدينة اليوم بالق ّوة التي لطالا‬ ‫تحلّت بها وتبدو عازمة عل الحافظة عل‬ ‫هذا النحو‪.‬‬

‫‪،wendyjim.com ،wienerblut.at‬‬ ‫‪،lenahoschek.com ،dasparfum.com‬‬ ‫‪parfumerie-flz.at‬‬

‫‪A Family Afair :32‬‬

‫مشوع عائل‬

‫يحافظ صانع الحذية العريقة ‪Ludwig‬‬ ‫‪ Reiter‬عل تقاليد حرف فيي ّنا ويتط ّور ف‬ ‫الوقت عينه ليجذب الجيل الجديد‪ ،‬تقرير‬ ‫‪Josh Sims‬‬

‫تُعتب شكة ‪ Ludwig Reiter‬العقل الخي‬ ‫لرث صناعة الحذية ف فيي ّنا وهو مدعاة للفخر‬ ‫ورمز للتم ّيز‪ .‬يقول ‪ Till Reiter‬مدير الشكة‬ ‫العائليّة من الجيل الرابع‪" :‬إنّنا صانعو الحذية‬ ‫الشغولة يدويّاً الوحيدون التبقّون ف فيينا‪.‬‬ ‫هذا مؤسف ويعقّد العمل‪ .‬كان هناك مو ّردون‬ ‫ومبتكرو آلت ويد عاملة ودراية أكث من اليوم‪.‬‬ ‫من غي السهل إيجاد أشخاص يقومون بالعمل‬ ‫اليدوي العقّد لصناعة أحذيتنا‪ ".‬ف الواقع‪،‬‬ ‫قال ‪ Reiter‬إنّه ف عهد جدّه ف العشينات‬ ‫والثلثينات‪ ،‬شكّلت فيي ّنا مرتعاً أوروب ّياً للزياء‬ ‫مع ّززة بفضل مهارات حرفيّة تقليديّة‪" .‬تتّعت‬ ‫بتأثي عالي حقيقي ف مجال الوضة وكانت‬ ‫موقعاً متعدّد الثقافات‪ .‬واليوم‪ ،‬تبقى النمسا‬ ‫عل غرار إنجلتا وإيطاليا‪ ،‬إحدى الدول القليلة‬ ‫التي ل تزال تصنع الحذية يدويّاً‪ ".‬يصنع‬ ‫الحرفيّون أحذية ‪ Ludwig Reiter‬بينم‬ ‫يجلسون عل مقاعد ولهذا السبب تُس ّمى‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪97‬‬

‫‪PHOTO: STEFAN ARMBRUSTER‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪City Of Fragrance :26‬‬

‫مدينة العطر‬

‫لطالا جمعت علقة تاريخيّة بي فيينا والعطور‬ ‫وتنهض هذه العلقة اليوم من خلل الهتمم‬ ‫العالي الذي تلقاه علمات تجاريّة وتحضي‬ ‫عطّارين لعطور بحسب الطلب‪ ،‬تقرير ‪Verity‬‬ ‫‪Hogan‬‬

‫يقول ‪ Hermann Fankhauser‬من علمة‬ ‫الزياء ‪" :Wendy & Jim‬بعض مك ّونات‬ ‫العطر أغل من الذهب‪ ".‬عطر ‪Drop No‬‬ ‫‪ 01‬هو أحد العطور الجديدة التي تلقى رواجاً‬ ‫ف فيينا‪ .‬لطالا ارتبط إسم الدينة بالعطور‬ ‫واشتهرت حقبة ‪ Habsburg‬بالتحديد بإنتاج‬ ‫عطور راقية‪ .‬واليوم تض ّم الدينة أنواعاً مختلفة‬ ‫من العطور‪ ،‬من خلطات تاريخيّة تعتمد عل‬ ‫وصفات تقليديّة إل تعديلت حديثة عل عطور‬ ‫قدية وخلطات جديدة مبتكرة تاماً‪.‬‬ ‫من أبرز المثلة عن عطّاري فيي ّنا الحديثي‬ ‫علمة ‪ .Wendy & Jim‬أحدثت مجموعاتها‬ ‫الخاصة بالرجال والنساء ثور ًة ف مجال‬ ‫للملبس‬ ‫ّ‬

‫الزياء النمساوي وكذلك المر بالنسبة إل‬ ‫عطرها الجديد للجنسي‪ .‬يقول ‪:Fankhauser‬‬ ‫"يحوي شذا زهور يحملك إل روائح مبطّنة ف‬ ‫العطر حيث تحيط بك روائح أكث ترابيّة وق ّوة‬ ‫وإثارة‪ .‬يكن تطبيق هذا التوصيف أيضاً عل‬ ‫أزيائنا‪".‬‬ ‫يتميّز عطر ‪ Drop No 01‬عن غيه كونه أحد‬ ‫العطور النادرة ف السوق الصنوعة من مك ّونات‬ ‫طبيعيّة وعضويّة بشكلٍ خاص‪ ،‬بالضافة إل‬ ‫تعبئته ف أكث الزجاجات غرابة ف السوق‪.‬‬ ‫تعاون الص ّممون مع علمة الخزف النمساويّة‬ ‫التاريخيّة ‪ Augarten‬لبتكار زجاجة فريدة‬ ‫من نوعها بشكل جمجمة ثعلب‪ .‬يقول‬ ‫‪ Fankhauser‬ف هذا الصدد‪" :‬عندما فكّرنا‬ ‫بالزجاجة‪ ،‬تص ّورنا أنّه يجب أن تكون زجاجة‬ ‫فاخرة لعطر باهظ الثمن‪ .‬الثعلب حيوان جميل‬ ‫وذك وشكّلت ‪ Augarten‬الشيك الثال لهذا‬ ‫الشوع‪ .‬فكانت النتيجة ناجحة بامتياز ونوفّر‬ ‫حال ّياً أربعة تصاميم مختلفة‪".‬‬ ‫بالقابل‪ ،‬يلغي دار العطور ‪WienerBlut‬‬ ‫الخطوط الفاصلة بي العطور التاريخ ّية‬ ‫والعاصة‪ .‬حقّقت العلمة نجاحاً باهرا ً ف‬ ‫تكييف عطور الحقبة المباطوريّة لتلئم‬

98 | P RO D U C T S

ON THE WILD SIDE Known for brightly coloured, handdecorated designs, Frey Wille believes in collections that tell a story. Each piece is created with emotion, sincerity and love, and this necklace from the Spirit of Africa collection is no diferent. Transporting the wearer to a continent of culture, nature, wildlife and tribal art, this goldplated pendant represents authentic Africa, combining zebra and leopard prints with a sophisticated ethnic nuance. Its bright colours refect Save up to 15% by shopping tax free, see page 83

energy and powerful rhythms that will make you long for an African adventure. Carefully encased in yellow gold, set on a simple chain, the necklace is subtle and romantic. Frey Wille has been making jewellery since 1951; don’t miss out on taking this precious piece of Austrian treasure home with you. sa Frey Wille Waterdrop pendant with Snake chain, €740, Frey Wille, Passage Getreidegasse 17, Universitätsplatz 10, 5020 Salzburg, +43 (0)662 847869, freywille.com for map go to page 67

PHOTO: UDO R REISINGER/DPI.AT

SOUVENIR

INNSBRUCK KITZBÜHEL KLAGENFURT SALZBURG WIEN

Amulette de Cartier

Wien - Kohlmarkt 1 cartier.de