SHOP Belgium AW17

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Welcome to Belgium

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Emma Cheevers

Чехия

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Discover the best of this remarkable and vibrant country with SHOP. Read about Antwerp’s fashion pioneers on page 30, as well as the nation’s time-honoured brands on page 36 and much more. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 16% when shopping in Belgium. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Belgium. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without filling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive membersonly discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

CONTRIBUTORS

Beth Druce Beth Druce is a fashion and luxury writer and creative consultant. Armed with an MA from Central Saint Martins, she began her career at GQ magazine, before heading to Europe to explore the world of horology. Today she can be found in the Swiss Alps, combining her interest in watches and fine jewellery with skiing. globalblue.com

Hannah Lewis Hannah Lewis, SHOP’s features editor, holds degrees from both the University of Oxford and the London College of Fashion. She has written for a number of international publications, including Time Out in Dubai, Quintessentially in London and Prestige in Hong Kong. Hannah believes the ultimate travel essential is a good book.

ILLUSTRATION: ANDREW NYE; PHOTO: (RIGHT) KATIE WILSON ELL

Andrew Nye Andrew Nye created this season’s cover artwork for SHOP Belgium. His clever, conceptual style is perfectly showcased by this illustration, which shows Belgium’s famous Atomium adorned with luxury jewellery. Andrew’s previous clients include Barclays and Eurostar. Discover SHOP Belgium and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Andrew Nye Contributors Beth Druce, Maria Kirchen-Hill Acting production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion and lifestyle writer Rebecca Rhys-Evans

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb

Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Hayley Moseley Artworking assistants Shirley Lau, Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Acting online managing editor Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener Human resources and office assistant Anjali Kapoor

Managing director Benelux Jorn Hoogesteijn Marketing and sales manager Irene Schermer Customer relations Mila Kurum, Arpine Okmez Key account manager Jennifer de Vos Sales manager Benelux Kim Joostens Account manager Jan Keymis, Niels Leunens Global Blue Belgium, Lambroekstraat 5A, B-1831 Diegem, Belgium

Print Dane Consultancy

News editor Ginger Rose Clark

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan

GLOBA L BLU E BELGI UM

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistant Inga Abramian Marketing intern Joanna Dodge Digital production assistant Linda Hau Production assistant Chris Bigg Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing manager Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2017 Global Blue

CONTENTS

PRODUCTS

NEWS 24 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Belgium 26 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

PAGE

EXPERIENCE 40 Sweet Treats Belgian chocolatiers are renowned for their innovation and emphasis on top-quality ingredients, says Maria Kirchen-Hill

GUIDE 45 Maps and guides to Belgium’s top shops and destinations

FEATURES

ESSENTIALS

30 New Fashion Heroes Nearly three decades after the Antwerp Six started making waves in the design world, their home town is still brimming with creative talent, as Beth Druce discovers 36 Time Travel In Belgium, history comes alive with a rich array of heritage brands and venues. Hannah Lewis goes exploring

59 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS 60 中文翻译 64 Русский Перевод 73

SOUVENIR 74 The essential item to bring home

Above: driving gloves by heritage brand Ganterie Boon

PHOTO: JESSE WILLEMS

16 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Belgium this season 18 Our Favourites Matthias Weber, Niklaus Hodel and Florian Feder, founders of footwear brand Weber Hodel Feder, reveal their top tips for autumn/ winter 2017/18 20 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

People create moments We add emotion

Horlogerie - Joaillerie Une tradition perpétuée mais sans cesse renouvelée

Petite rue au Beurre 17 1000 Bruxelles 02 / 512 75 97 info@pdewitte.be

Rue au Beurre 22 1000 Bruxelles 02 / 512 85 55 info@pdewitte.be

Rue Marché aux herbes 10 1000 Bruxelles 02 / 217 10 05 generation@pdewitte.be

www.pdewitte.be

Rue de l’Eglise 153 1150 Bruxelles 02 / 771 58 77 stockel@pdewitte.be

CH ECK O UT

TREASURE HUNT Gold and pearls are a classic combination and make the perfect accompaniment to a wardrobe, day or night. This gold-plated necklace by Wouters & Hendrix is adorned with a purple crystal, a peacock pearl and a white cornflake pearl. The Belgian brand has created a romantic collection for autumn/ winter 2017/18; called Collection Curators Raritas, it is inspired by the idea of seeking out treasures. The new range uses gemstones to create one-of-a-kind jewellery Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 59

and to explore a subtheme of insects; elements of this necklace are based on the structure of insect wings while the colours of the stone and the pearls refer to the hues of insect shells. The brand was founded more than 30 years ago by Katrin Wouters and Karen Hendrix, who wanted to promote authentic craftsmanship in Belgium. fm Wouters & Hendrix necklace, â&#x201A;Ź310, Wouters & Hendrix, Steenhouwersvest 52, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 231 6242, wouters-hendrix.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 52

#BoggiGentlemanStyle

A GENTLEMAN DOES NOT TALK. JUST ACT. - Rule 67 -

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OUR FAVOURITES: WEBER HODEL FEDER Footwear label Weber Hodel Feder (or WHF) is named after its three founders, who are former students of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. Matthias Weber, Niklaus Hodel and Florian Feder started the brand in 2012 and their creations combine artisanal quality and classic style with a contemporary twist. With a focus on well-made designs for men and women, their label plays with clever colour combinations and textures. They share their favourite items for this season with Fani Mari

3. ‘We think the daddy (or granddaddy) watch has made a comeback. By that we mean the amazing timepiece your dad wore and that is now strapped around your own wrist. Preferably it’s rare, gold and Swiss-made’

1. ‘Feder’s signature fragrance is Terre d’Hermès by JeanClaude Ellena’ Hermès Terre d’Hermès fragrance, 200ml, €162.90, Ici Paris XL, Huidevettersstraat 53, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)2 643 6650, hermes.com

2. ‘We always have iPhones and iPads with us. They are essential to conquer the flood of emails that we receive daily’ Apple iPhone 7, from €769, Apple, 26-28 avenue de la Toison d’Or, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)800 81685, apple.com

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 59

PHOTOS: (3) © ROLEX; (5) © GORUNWAY.COM; (6) SENNE VAN DER VEN

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 watch, €38,500, Hall of Time, 75 avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 539 3450, rolex.com

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4. ‘Rosier 41 is our favourite store in Antwerp. It’s a vintage designer consignment, and until you actually go there you don’t know what they have in stock. A good find is almost always guaranteed’ Rosier 41, Rosier 41, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 225 5303, rosier41.be

4 5. ‘Autumn/winter 2017/18 has seen an ongoing interest in denim by several designers. One of our highlights is the Louis Vuitton x Supreme monogram baseball overshirt in Japanese jacquard denim.’ Louis Vuitton x Supreme monogram denim overshirt, €820, Louis Vuitton, 59-60 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 289 2828, louisvuitton.com

6. ‘Our version of clean sneakers, available in white, burgundy and black tumbled leather, is our favourite from this season’s collection. All of the shoes have a natural rubber sole for comfort and style’ Weber Hodel Feder Santa Monica trainers, €395, Coccodrillo, Arenbergstraat 2, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 233 2093, weberhodelfeder.com

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CHIC PRACTICALITY

A shearling jacket will stylishly take you through winter, with plenty of options for pairings 1

1. Mango earrings, €6.99, Mango, Simon Stevinplein 10, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 616130, mango.com 2. Christophe Robin volumising hair mist with rose water, 150ml, €29.40, Cosmeticary, Huidevettersstraat 38, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 233 0492, christophe-robin.com 3. YSL Beauty Touche Éclat concealer, €35.50, Ici Paris XL, Noordzandstraat 10, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 337378, yslbeauty.com

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 59

4. Marc O’Polo jumpsuit, €179.90, Marc O’Polo, 32 avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 502 8104, marc-o-polo.com 5. Bulgari watch, €9,950, Bulgari, 36 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 511 6701, bulgari.com

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6. Swarovski Crystaldust double bracelet, €89, Swarovski, 7 rue des Fripiers, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 223 5116, swarovski.com

8. Zara jacket, €99.95, Zara, Huidevettersstraat 39, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 224 7290, zara.com

7. Church’s Angelina boots, €550, Church’s, 2 place Stéphanie, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 4430, church-footwear.com

9. Burberry DK88 bag, €1,995, Burberry, 16 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 402 4400, burberry.com

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GREY PLAY This season swap black hues for cool granite and deep navy tones 1

1. APC jacket, €430, APC, 61 rue Darwin, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 346 2616, apc.fr

3. BeoPlay H4 headphones, €299, Bang & Olufsen, Riemstraat 22, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 288 9108, beoplay.com

2. Adidas Originals trainers, €169.95, Adidas Originals, Kammenstraat 45, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 3092, adidas.com

4. Cos trousers, €89, Cos, 32 avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 503 5368, cosstores.com

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 59

PHOTO: (3) JEPPE SØRENSEN

UN CERTO MONDO CAMMINA ROSSETTI. 360Â°

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CREATIVE THINKING Forward-thinking fashion brand Coccodrillo has opened a new boutique in Antwerpâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s charming Theaterbuurt district. Its striking design combines industrialstyle fittings and elegant tones; metal display cabinets and concrete floors and ceilings give a masculine feel which is juxtaposed by furniture in soft fabrics. As well as carrying top luxury labels such as Saint Laurent, Prada, Maison Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 59

Margiela and Raf Simons for both men and women, Coccodrillo is offering its customers new and creative shopping experiences. It will be hosting a range of private educational workshops by selected brands; in addition, it has an atelier where shoes can be reshaped and repaired. rre Coccodrillo, Arenbergstraat 2, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 233 2093, coccodrillo.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 53

PHOTO: ÂŠ JEAN-PIERRE GABRIEL

SHOP WINDOW

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WATCH THIS SPACE

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 48

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 59

OPEN BOOK Assouline recently opened its first store in the Belgian capital. The company was founded in 1994 as a luxury culture brand and publisher of beautiful books. At the new boutique in the historic Sablon neighbourhood, customers can shop elegant titles that focus on fashion, art, architecture, design and more and can browse an enticing range of candles and other covetable items. Based on the idea of a cabinet of curiosities, the new shop is an inspiring space filled with vintage designs, paintings, photographs and bronze sculptures. js Assouline, 65 rue Lebeau, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)4794 51202, assouline.com

PHOTOS: (LEFT) SERGE ANTON; (TOP CENTRE) LUC VIATOUR/LUCNIX.BE

Earlier this year a prestigious new Hall of Time store opened on boulevard de Waterloo in Brussels. It is dedicated exclusively to Rolex. Here visitors will find themselves immersed in the world of the Swiss luxury watchmaker. The interior features the stylish materials used in all Rolex stores and is further enhanced by decorative panels showing some of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s key landmarks in art deco-style stucco. In front of these, display cabinets showcase the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s state-of-the-art timepieces. The store is also home to an exclusive VIP salon. grc Boutique Rolex Hall of Time, 55 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 5811, halloftime.be

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CONVERSATION PIECES

PHOTO: (TOP RIGHT) TAMM.BE

CALVIN TIME For autumn/winter 2017/18, Calvin Kleinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s watch range features sleek and elegant designs. The collection encompasses classic shapes as well as minimalist, modern styles. Gold, silver and rose gold options are finished with leather or Milanese straps. With a striking yet simple look, this City style (â&#x201A;Ź255) is one of our favourites of the season. grc Galeria Inno, Meir 80-82, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 1950, calvinklein.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 53

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For Karolin Van Loon, jewellery must have the power to spark conversation, so when she moved from a career in interior decor into the world of gem design, she knew she wanted her creations to stand out. Unusual stones and crystals have become part of her signature look. Materials such as druzy, uvarovite and geodes of all colours form the basis of her collections. These are set into 18-carat gold necklaces, earrings, bracelets and rings, with each piece uniquely designed. Her most luxurious works are edged with diamonds, reflecting what she sees as the two sides of a woman; polished, and elegant on the one hand, natural and charismatic on the other. This is beautiful, modern jewellery that really does prove a talking point. hl Renaissance, Nationalestraat 32, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 369 0108, karolin.be FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 52

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NOSTALGIC KNITS

Guerlain has opened a new boutique on vibrant avenue Louise in Brussels. As well as presenting more than 110 of the brand’s scents, the store offers digital consultations and a truly bespoke experience. You can select one of Guerlain’s striking Bee bottles, available in various sizes, and have it filled with your preferred scent from one of 27 fragrance fountains. The bottle can then be embellished with your choice of ribbon, which will be beautifully tied from a range of options. An engraving or your embroidered initials on the ribbon add the finishing touch. For anyone who is a fan of fragrances and wants to discover a wide range of products from the historic French perfume house which was founded in 1828, the new Guerlain store is a must-visit. rre Guerlain, 52 avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 899 6139, guerlain.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 49

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 59

PHOTOS: (LEFT) © MORREC; (RIGHT) MEHDY@MEHDYNASSER.BE

SCENTS OF STYLE

Valentine Witmeur Lab’s collections of striking knitted pieces combine on-trend design, traditional techniques and luxury materials. The Belgian brand sources yarn in Italy and its production takes place in Portugal at a family-run atelier with longstanding expertise in knitwear. The autumn/winter 2017/18 collection features a retro athletic look, with oversized jumpers in 80s-inspired pastel pink and lilac, and hooded pieces with thick red stripes reminiscent of college sports. We particularly like this roll-neck jumper with its grid pattern and contrast cuffs. rre Icon, 5 place de Nouveau Marché aux Grains, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 502 7151, valentinewitmeurlab.com

Find your nearest store on www.c-a.com

NEW FASHION

HEROES Nearly three decades after the Antwerp Six started making waves in the design world, Beth Druce finds their home town is still brimming with creative talent

t is almost 30 years since Ann Demeulemeester, Marina Yee, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Bikkembergs, Dirk van Saene and Walter Van Beirendonck revolutionised the global fashion landscape. In March 1988, these graduates from Antwerpâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Royal Academy of Fine Arts (the Antwerp Six as they came to be known) stunned London Fashion Week with their deconstructed, conceptual approach to design.

The ripples can still be felt in the industry. Today, Antwerp remains fertile soil for creative talent. The Royal Academy is regularly ranked as one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading institutions for fashion education, while the city itself boasts MoMu (or ModeMuseum) as well as a fashion library and a rich array of boutiques and galleries. Together these give Antwerp enormously impressive

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Van Beirendonck or Dirk van Saene,’ he says. Five years after graduating, Janusauskas is considered one of the city’s foremost fashion creators, with pieces that reference art, culture and literature. ‘I start a new collection by looking at novelties, social media, culture and arts,’ he explains. ‘Awareness of what is happening in the world today is crucial for a fashion designer. The concept comes together as a reward for vigorous research, good selection of colour and technical details.’ Toos Franken launched her eponymous line after graduating from the Royal Academy and then gaining experience at Belgian fashion labels Ann Demeulemeester and Haider Ackermann, where she sartorial credentials. Currently some of the most exciting and innovative new designers are emerging from the city. Marius Janusauskas graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in 2012 and has been making a name for himself ever since. His elaborate designs combine modern shapes and textures with thoughtprovoking themes. Like so many alumni of the city’s famous college, Janusauskas credits his experience at the academy and in Antwerp in general as playing a formative part in his career. ‘I chose to study at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp because I wanted to receive an education on a global level. I never dreamed that I would have the opportunity to learn from fashion legends such as Walter 60 73

Previous page: Toos Franken autumn/winter 2017/18 Above (both): Marius Janusauskas autumn/winter 2017/18

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) © FILIP DE SMET

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immersed herself in the patternmaking process. Today her womenswear collections have a one-of-a-kind quality. She describes her style as ‘a way to express how I feel about certain things’. The collection for autumn/winter 2017/18 is entitled Micro Manifesto and combines minimalist androgyny with quirky, conceptual detailing. ‘I started from a photo series by Sarah Anne Johnson called Arctic Wonderland’ she says. It is ‘about natural beauty and what happens when everything is controlled and modified by humans, a bit like global warming. I tried to create pieces with touches of deconstruction, like the zips in the sleeves of the jackets and sweaters. The sleeves are detachable, but they don’t have to be.’ It’s like saying you

can change something, she explains, ‘but you will still see the scars’. The collection is built around a colour palette of black, electric blue and soft pink. Conceptual elements include high collars made with long strips of ribbon, sleeves and skirts spliced with zips, and the occasional, unexpected corsage. Wim Bruynooghe is renowned not only for his fashion creations

Above (clockwise from left): two looks from the Toos Franken autumn/winter 2017/18 collection; the designer

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but also as an entrepreneur. Born in Bruges in 1988, he is a graduate of the Royal Academy. In 2013 he founded his label in Antwerp and quickly gained a following for his designs. These offset traditional couturier techniques with sports-inspired elements. His pieces are made with highly textured fabrics such as wool and cashmere. In 2016 he featured in the Forbes 30 under 30 list of European entrepreneurs. Bruynooghe is currently the artistic director of Ucwhy, and his trademark style of draping fabrics is a selling point of this up-and-coming label.

Cultural richness plays a big part in attracting talent to Antwerp, so too does the city’s very laudable investment in nurturing creativity. Janusauskas points out that the reason the fashion department at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts has quite such an impressive roll call of alumni is because the college provides affordable education for the majority of people. The focus, he says, is on ‘talent rather than financial figures’. That’s why, if you are looking to fill your wardrobe with cutting-edge fashion, Antwerp should be your first port of call

Above (from left): Wim Bruynooghe’s atelier; the designer’s latest collection

PHOTOS: KRIS DE SMEDT

Currently some of the most innovative designers are emerging from Antwerp

TIME TRAVEL

In Belgium, history comes alive with a rich array of heritage brands and venues that are still vibrant today, as Hannah Lewis discovers

hen exploring a country, one of the most exciting things to do is to discover its living history. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing quite like finding a piece of a nationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s past that survives and that remains part of the intrinsic character of the country today. Belgium offers a particularly rich range of historic shops and brands

that are still thriving. From one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading handbag brands to a 16th-century flea market, take a step back in time on your trip here. Founded in 1829 in Brussels, Delvaux is one of the oldest luxury leather goods specialists in the world. In fact, it is older than Belgium itself, which was declared

PHOTO: JESSE WILLEMS

Above: Ganterie Boon driving gloves

independent from the Netherlands the year after, in 1830. Delvaux is renowned worldwide for its handbags, and over its 188 years of business it has shown an impressive ability to remain current and to push the boundaries of design while maintaining a true respect for traditional craft and techniques. Visit the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stylish

boutique on boulevard de Waterloo in Brussels to discover its exquisite collections. More than 3,000 designs have been released since 1829 and without a doubt the most famous of them is Le Brillant. This striking bag was launched in 1958 to immediate acclaim and it remains one of the ultimate collectorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pieces to this day.

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been beautifully preserved along with historic glove boxes, counters and furniture, making a visit to Ganterie Boon all the more of a journey into the past. In central Brussels, Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert was inaugurated by King Leopold I in 1847. This elegant arcade was designed to keep discerning customers stylishly warm throughout the colder months of the year and was one of the first of its kind. Its striking facade and arched glass roof have inspired countless other such buildings across the globe. It is a must-see for its architecture quite as much as its retailers. Now, as then, it is home to some of the city’s most luxurious boutiques, cafés and, of course, Belgian chocolatiers.

PHOTOS: (TOP, BOTH) DELVAUX; (BOTTOM) © VISIT ANTWERPEN/KATHLEEN MICHIELS

Belgium has a reputation for excellence in leatherwork quite beyond handbags. On Antwerp’s Lombardenvest, look out for Ganterie Boon. One of the oldest glove shops in the country and the only remaining establishment of its kind in the city, it attracts visitors from across the world. The boutique was founded in 1884 and exclusively sells handmade gloves ‒ as it has done for more than 130 years. There’s an impressive range, catering for every taste and occasion. Choose from a variety of luxury leathers including lambskin, deerskin and peccary; browse styles designed for everything from driving to formal occasions; and pick your colour carefully, whether a bold mustard or a classic tan. The store’s art nouveau features have

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Above (clockwise from top left): Delvaux’s Brussels atelier in 1951; the brand’s Le Brillant bag; Vrijdagmarkt flea market in Antwerp

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PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT) © TOERISME BRUGGE/JAN D’HONDT; (BOTTOM LEFT) BELGIANCHOCOLATE CC BY 2.0; (RIGHT) © CAFEVLISSINGHE.BE

In Bruges, pay a visit to Café Vlissinghe. It is the oldest continuously run venue of its kind in the city, with written records that date back to 1515. Visitors come from far and wide to experience the famous Vlissinghe ambience, enjoy a light meal and sample a glass or two of local beer. We recommend trying one by

For a very different shopping experience, be sure to visit Antwerp’s Vrijdagmarkt, a vibrant flea market held each Friday. You’re sure to be amazed by the size and atmosphere, with traders exuberantly selling their wares at auction in much the way they did when Vrijdagmarkt was established in the 16th century. If you’d like to taste a piece of history, Belgium has much to offer in the way of traditional establishments. In Antwerp, the city’s oldest bakery is Goossens, thought by many to be the best. You’ll find its windows stacked with delicious, freshly baked breads, pastries and more. But be prepared to queue; the shop is as popular with locals as it is with visitors.

Hoegaarden. This famous and much loved brewery was founded in 1445 and a taste of its ales will add to your historic exploration. No tour of Belgium would be complete without enjoying some of the nation’s famous gourmet chocolates, and what better place to sample them than Confiserie De Clerck? This time warp of a sweet shop on Academiestraat near the centre of Bruges was established about a century ago and is still a family business. Many traditional Belgian treats can be found here, as can sumptuous versions of classic truffles and pralines. A box of De Clerck chocolates makes the perfect souvenir for any loved one ‒ if you can resist the temptation of eating them yourself

Above (clockwise from top left): confectionery at Confiserie De Clerck in Bruges; the city’s Café Vlissinghe; a cake at Goossens, the oldest bakery in Antwerp

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SWEET TREATS Belgian chocolatiers are renowned for their innovation and emphasis on top-quality ingredients. Maria Kirchen-Hill samples some of the best creations

Chocolate was first brought to Belgium in the 1600s and was initially sold as a tonic by pharmacists. Yet by the mid-18th century it was a luxury item, savoured as a favourite treat among the wealthy. Fast-forward another century and it had become an important part of the nation’s culture ‒ and also its economy. By the 20th century Belgium was recognised internationally as a leader in the art of making fine chocolate, as it continues to be today. Whether you’re looking for soft pralines (a Belgian invention), rich truffles or something more adventurous, the nation’s leading chocolatiers produce some of the most exciting sweet creations in the world. Belgian chocolate makers are renowned for their innovation and many of them combine science with art in producing new flavour combinations and textures. This small country is a haven for the sweet toothed, but even those who rarely eat chocolate simply can’t leave Belgium without sampling its most famous confection. globalblue.com

DUMON In 1992 Stephan Dumon began making artisan truffles for local bakeries and pastry chefs. Word of his flair quickly spread, and to cope with demand the Dumon family opened a store in their home town of Torhout. More shops were soon set up and in 2008 a chocolate boutiquecum-café was established on medieval Simon Stevinplein in Bruges. It combines Italian coffee culture with Belgian chocolate making, and in this environment customers can savour handmade Dumon confections alongside one of cocoa’s most natural of partners. As well as enjoying the brand’s bite-sized creations, look out for its signature Choc-o-bars. These moreish rich slabs of milk, white and dark chocolate feature a choice of other ingredients, from hazelnuts to candied ginger. Dumon, Simon Stevinplein 11, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 333360, chocolatierdumon.be

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BURIE

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T H E C H O C O L AT E L I N E At the Chocolate Line, Dominique Persoone and his team have adopted a bean-to-bar process in which they monitor every step. Some beans are imported in small batches from family companies whose farms they have visited, others come from the Chocolate Lineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own plantation in Mexico, as do its vanilla and cane sugar. The beans are roasted, peeled and crushed in the workshop, then flavoured to perfection and poured into bars. Production is limited to maintain standards, and each bar is labelled with its cocoa percentage and the country of origin. Along with the bars, the pralines here are outstanding; expect unusual and delicious flavour combinations. The Chocolate Line, Simon Stevinplein 19, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 341090, thechocolateline.be

PHOTO: (RIGHT) CHARLES BATTAILLE

Hans Burie started making chocolates at a young age, producing them in the basement of his rural family home and selling them to local patissiers. He opened his eponymous chocolate shop in Antwerp in 1964. Today the business is run by his son Lieven, who continues to uphold a commitment to craftsmanship and traditional values. His chocolates are handmade in the workshop each day, and the assortment includes a mix of classic favourites alongside less familiar flavours. The store is famous for its window displays, which feature flamboyant chocolate designs and sculptures. Burie, Nationalestraat 42, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 3688, burie-chocoladepralinesantwerpen.be

S H O P | 43

PIERRE MARCOLINI The eponymous founder of this house is one of the most famous chocolatiers in the world ‒ and one of the most awarded, too. His passion for chocolate knows no bounds and he aims to take the art of creating confections to new heights. Expect nothing less than excellence at Pierre Marcolini, whether you are tempted by a box

of classic truffles, a fun selection box (we recommend the Malline Découverte) or something from the in-house patisserie. No expense has been spared, no detail overlooked, in the quest to make your eating experience perfect. Pierre Marcolini, 21 Galerie de la Reine, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 502 3567, marcolini.com

PHOTO: (TOP) MATHIEU DUCROS/OPICTURES

MARY

This historic chocolate brand was founded in 1919 and initially owed its success to the patronage of high society, which was charmed by founder Mary Delluc and her commitment to quality. Today, the team continues her tradition of excellence, using only the finest ingredients and offering chocolate creations in beautiful packaging. Mary’s exquisite confectionery boxes reflect the glamour and luxury of the house’s beginnings.

Mary, 23 Galerie de la Toison d’Or, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 3887, mary.be

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G U I D E | 45

GUIDE

PHOTO: CARLOS ANDRÉS REYES CC BY 2.0

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Belgium with a look at the country’s must-visit destinations, from a chic accessories boutique to a striking jewellery and timepiece store. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/belgium.

Above: Bruges dramatically lit at night

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DE WITTE Discerning visitors to Brussels will find a stunning selection of watches and jewellery at De Witte. This family-run business has been combining quality and tradition for four generations. Its range of timepieces includes Longines and Tag Heuer as well as Daniel Wellington; its jewellery collections run from Lapponia to Calvin Klein. De Witte boasts more than 255,000 satisfied customers in its 85-year history and has an impressive reputation in the world of fine accessories.

De Witte, 17 petite rue au Beurre, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 7597, pdewitte.be

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Rue Antoine Dansaert

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Avenue Louise K AP

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HARD ROCK CAFÉ America hits Antwerp in true rock ‘n’ roll style with a new multi-level Hard Rock Café. Customers here not only enjoy the brand’s famous Americanstyle burgers, ribs and more but also a host of collectible merchandise. This is available to buy in the Rock Shop and ranges from the brand’s glassware to classic T-shirts with a new Antwerp design. The restaurant is set over two levels with a large chandelier as the centrepiece. It includes a relaxing downstairs bar and an expansive heated terrace. Sample one of Hard Rock Café’s signature cocktails here while looking out on the bustling city centre.

Hard Rock Café, Groenplaats 35, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 205 1380, hardrock.com

DELBÔVE Delbôve exclusively uses plants and precious ingredients to revitalise the skin, with long-term results. Its signature treatment, Sorcière Beauty Ritual, has become especially acclaimed. With a history that dates back to the 1950s and an enviable reputation to boot, Delbôve is one beauty brand you may want to keep to yourself. Be sure to stop by its flagship store in Brussels to stock up on its naturally effective products.

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Delbôve, Korte Gasthuisstraat 41, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 345 8991, delbove-cosmetics.com FOR M AP GO TO PAGE 52

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Global Blue Retailer

IITTALA ● NICO TAEYMANS ● FALKE ● SUPERTRASH ● STATE OF ART ● DELBÔVE ● P.51

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SCOTCH & SODA ● DRIES VAN NOTEN ● CLIO ● GOLDBRENNER

KID ●

● HUIS A BOON

STEP BY STEP ●

Lombardevest YOSHO ●

Nationalestraat

Place Of Interest

● SCAPA SPORTS ● ERIC BOMPARD

● SCAPA

DONUM ●

SCAPA ● SPORT

MORGAN ●

LES HOMMES ●

● SCAPA WORLD

● 14 HOPLAND ● SANDRO ● MCGREGOR ● CREA CONCEPT ● CLAUDIE PIERLOT ● RIVER WOODS ● MER DU NORD

● EMPORIO ARMANI

Stadsfeestzaal

● ME PH IST O ● PAL ZIL ERI

Galeria Inno P.27 STO CK X & CO ● MA RCO ● PEARLE ● PIMKIE

● L'OCCITANE ● SED ON A BISKY URBAN NIC ● OUTFITTERS VA NK ETS ●

ME LVI N ●

SED ON A ●

BA SLE R ●

● TWIN SET ● ANN FONTAIN E ● INVERT ● DONCEE L JUWELE N ● ESSENT IEL ANTWER P ● MON PLUS BEAU SOUVEN IR ● ILSE DE KEULEN AER ● CÉCIL CHAUSS URES ● GRAA NMAR KT 13 ● CLEO

● HOGAN ● TENSEN

● COCCODRILLO

H U IDE V E T T E R S S T R A AT

P.24

MARIA PIJP ELINC XST RAA T

SELECTED SHOPS IN STADSFEESTZAAL:

● ESSENT IEL ANTWER P TS ● TERRE BLEU E DI E P L AA D ● MARITH É FRANÇO IS GIRBAUK O M ● BRILLEN MARKT / LENSON LINE ● AMERIC AN VINTAGE 7 FOR ALL ● MANKIN D ● CHANEL ● DELVAU X

● SLAETS ● PAIN DE SUCRE

Cos Ice Watch Men At Work Sacha Tommy Hilfiger

BASE ● CYDONIA ● WE ● FOSSIL ● VERO MODA / JACK & JONES ● CELIO ● ICI PARIS XL ● FOOT LOCKER ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● BERSHKA ● H&M ● I AM ●

● C&A ● ZARA RIVER ● ISLAND ● ESPRIT

DVS ● AGENT PROVOC ATEUR ● LIU JO ● MONTBL ANC ●

JIMMY CHOO ● MONCLE R ● ZADIG & VOLTAIR E ● GÉRARD DAREL ●

7 FOR ALL MANKIN D ● KARL LAGERF ELD ● ● LES ATELIER S DE LAMAIL LE LADURÉ E ● TOMMY HILFIGE R ● ● COMPTO IR DES COTONN IERS ● VILEBRE QUIN CAROLL ● BURBER RY ● THE CHOCOL ATE MAJE ● ● LINE WOOLRI CH ● PINKO ● PRINCES SE TAM TAM ● ELISABE TTA FRANCH I ● BCBGMA XAZRIA ● ● S OLIVER ● SCORE ● H&M ● REPLAY ● DIESEL ● IÜ ● CLARKS ● JBC / TORFS ● SPRINGF IELD

KO LV E N I E R S S T R A AT LEVI'S ● THE STING ● WEST-END ● MANGO ● PULL & BEAR ● NEW YORKER ● MEXX ● UNIQLO ● COOL CAT ● DESIGUAL ● STREET ONE ● PRINCESS ● TRIUMPH ● SWAROVSKI ● KEN ● ZAZA ● NIKE ● PUMA ● HEMA ●

Peek & Cloppenburg

AVANCE ● PRANGE ●

RUBENS HUIS

Featured In This Issue

Shopping Centre/Mall

Department Store

HOPL AND

T SCH UT TER SHOFST R A A

M EI R M EI R

DE V E T T E R S S T R A AT UI

SE N ●

RN EL IS

JACK & JONES / VERO MODA ●

RA AT

ER G ST

A R EN B

HI LD E CO

M EI R

AS ADVENTURE ● STEVE MADDEN ● NEW LOOK ● ESPRIT ● HUNKEMÖLLER ● UNITED BRANDS ●

Clio Goldbrenner, Steenhouwersvest 63, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 226 6949, cliogoldbrenner.com Creating unique accessories with close attention to detail is the focus of Belgian designer Clio Goldbrenner. The autumn/ winter 2017/18 collection pays homage to the 1980s and features python and patent leather along with a colour palette of rich red, fuchsia and deep navy.

S H O P | 53

CLIO GOLDBRENNER

Meir & Hopland

P ELIK

A A NST

R A AT

ILAN DIAMONDS ● RIKI DIAMONDS ● EDEN ● RON ● DIAMOND CREATIONS ● ORDINI ● BELLA ● JULIA DIAMONDS ● MALDINI DIAMONDS ● MODANI DIAMOND CREATIONS ● DIAMAND PALACE ●

ANTWERP OR ●

LA NG E HE

RE NTAL

SE ST RA

O ● DI AM

N D WO

AT IO N IN TE RN G EL A O N D S ● DI AM

● LAURA ASHLEY PH H A R OIL IP P E LD S ●

EDEN DIAMONDS ●

R L EI

RL D

● L' O DY S S EE ● NA TUSH M A IS ● PA O N D U RFUM ● D IA MON DL AN D

Pelikaanstraat

T AA

Non-Global Blue Retailer I●

T TI

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FR A

NKR

I JK L

T AA

A AT

L EI

DE KE

DEL R ● H O E YC H O C O L AT USE P LA O E Z IZ O N E T PA RR S IN I ● VA N FU M D IA MV D IA M O STR A ● N OND LENS WO DS ● TR A S LA ER LD ● AT VERS TS ● M E D IA ATO ● MARK T K IP ● M A LD M&G F& RLOIN G ● IN ● D IA I D IA M SS ● MOND ITA I D PRE ONDS ● S IA M O N D S & G O L DS TI G E ● JE W E A R T ● LLER ● L& Y DE GO ● D A D IO D IA M R● IL A N LD E N R IN O NDS B E S T D IA M O N G ● ● UN D IA M D S IV OND S ● E LY SH AY D IA M ● D& ER SAL D O N JE O N D SS ● IA M O D W E LL ● NDS E RY ● R OY ● & DA LT Y JE W E IA M O N D S L L E RY

VERD

SS T R A A T PPELMAN

A R IS XL ● D IN O ● ● GE RRE

ER AM

YSER

IC I P

ST R A

KLE

LUX STREET FASHION ●

DE KE

Global Blue Retailer RIJ

HOPL AND

HUN H& THE KEMÖLL M ● E BOD Y SH R ● ● KA OP R ER AM ● ● G E E N M IL L EN O ENBO ● ● PL X RRE A M&S ● ● A P N E T PA R FUM ● V E R IT P E L' S ● ON AS M LY A R M CG R EG O ● ● VA R● A N I JE N ANS ● B E DA L E N ● NETT ON ● AM E R IC A TO D AY ● TO MMY H IL F ● DA IG E R N Y-M D E N IM AY VA N D

SN3 ●

LAS IA M O D IA M N OND AT E L D S O N V A S● ES IE R D ● NNEES E B L U T IG IN G ● ENS ● GI CQ S TVRA N ● G NO A ASTT R JO A IL U OY ● ● HE EL A T T DU C A ● MI AR IN I E N T RL E R IE ● VA DA T S S T CAEY E ● ● DA N G S & E A ENS L O U IS JU W A D V T E ● O RR C A S H R E IC H M L E N ● CA REA ELL R ● O ANN 4 D IA W ● N R S I SJ JO Ë L M O N D S ● ● G AT AT U R E ● G L EC EW ● G O L A LY VE DI ● Z AL DE D EL VA N R B R U G G E R ● AM DER LE ● CO E B R U CC N P I A M ON VEKE EN ● A V N RY A ● I O L N● DS ● FA E R B D E S FA D I A A C N D S D M E S ● S R GOLD ● PA A N H I O U G D I A H I O O N O B . M IL M ● HE RE IEL N GE M N DS L E T & B E L D IAK A B L O I ● O F ● J N L N L ● ND ADO ● H LA R S E EW R I M C O JE W M O R ● S ● I A W I D H JE E E L I S IL L E N IU E L S ● ● J N J NA LE O EN W LL ABET M ● R E U W E W O R S S M R I DE L L E RY OR ● ● VE IC EL EL FROM DI E ● A M O N RY ANN R A HM EN LE ● NA ● ON N T A N T O RY ● M ● M A O I DS F & PA ● D A Y RG A ZE ● GH AM NO A O OL OR IA IA JU R D DI JE TI W EL NI W IE EL R LE RY

FR A

MISSONI ● CORNER BY BLOK ●

L L IN

STR TR FR AN

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IN R A AT

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A AN S T

DE K QUE

L E YS IEU

L' OADN SS T R A M YS A ADP P E L N IC O S É E ● T

L ANGE N

P ELIK

54 | G U I D E

Leysstraat & De Keyserlei

ROOS E VEL TPL A

● DIAMONDLAND GALLERY EMPIRE: ● DAYEKH JEWELLERY

YS ER

AT S

L EI

Vestingstraat

S H O P | 55

BRUGES

RA AT

IN SP

M N

-J A N SIN T

NST R A

T AA

R ST RA

MOE

T AA

PAGE

AA T

Simon Stevinplein

The Pand Hotel

F IJZ E

Hotel De TuileriÃ«n

THE CANALS

SintAA S T R Salvatorskerkhhof

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PAGE

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BASILICA OF THE HOLY BLOOD

56 G

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K S TR. S TO C T P H IL IP AA TR GALERIES SAINT HUBERT GS O Burg H O Markt BRUGES BELFRY VRIJE AND STADHUIS HALLES

AA T

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IEG

R EL

A T-J

BE Kempinski Hotel Duke's Palace

58 ND

TRA

SIN BS

PAGE

A DZ

T AA

K ZA

D R EI

ENG

T OR

IN GS

EN - HA N

GOUD

I ER E

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N VI

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ND DZ A

KOR TE V U L D E R

A SS T R

WELCOME CHURCH OF OUR LADY MA

T G O E ZEP U TSTR A A

AS TR

T AA

OLD ST. JOHN'S HOSPITAL O O S T MEE R S

G KO N IN

ZO N N

EER EK EM

OUDE G

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T AA

T R A AT

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Hotel

Tourist Information

MINNEWATER

V I S S PA N S

E AT

T I-IA AN

W ESTMEER S

A LB ER

BEGUINAGE

Place Of Interest

W IEU

56 | G U I D E

Old Town ● NICKY M

FILOU & FRIENDS ●

● REFAELOV DIAMONDS

BR UG GE

P H IL IP

●

SE ●

WE ELTJE

PIERRE MARCOLINI ● DUE COLLECTION ● T PEARLE ● AA R T FNAC ● TS

A AT

S TO C

K STR

A AT

Burg Markt B R EID

● URSUS BRUGGHIAE ● NICO TAEYMANS

T R AA

EL ST

Burg ● ●V ● ● M ROS ENI S KE DELVAUX ● A RS ISO ALIN E TB N P E RU ICK GG ER Y ● NATURA E ● ROCOCO ● CHOCOLATIER VAN OOST ● THE BOTTLE SHOP ● KLEDING DE KAT PICKERY ● T ● BUBBLES AT HOME CADEAUX MARGAUX ● W

AA T

● ILSE DE CORTE

Pergola Kaﬀee

HET BRUGSCH THEEHUIS ● CHOCOLATE HAPPINESS ●

DU CH ES

N G ST R

JOAQUIM JOFRE ● ● DUMON ● COTÉNOIR

KA NTJU

VL AMI

L'ANGOLO ● HERENMODE

● CKS

THEO ● BITTE KAI RAND ●

SF EE R 'N

NICKY M ACCESSOIRES ●

● CHOCOHOLIC

FLANDERS LACE ● MILLE FLEURS ●

● DE 5 ZINTUIGEN

AU POINT DE ROSE ● KANTENPARADIJS ● CHOCOHOLIC ● JOSIANE ANSAELENS ●

TOP 3 … RESTAURANTS Auberge de Herborist This elegant restaurant is all about plants. It has an abundant garden and an inspirational menu. Auberge de Herborist, De Watermolen 15, 8200 Bruges, +32 (0)50 387600, aubergedeherborist.be Sans Cravate Sans Cravate offers fine dining in a relaxed atmosphere. The name translates as ‘without a tie’ and reflects the unfussy ethos here. The restaurant presents an innovative menu of exquisite dishes.

Global Blue Retailer

Sans Cravate, Langestraat 159, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 678310, sanscravate.be Lieven One of the newer restaurants in Bruges, Lieven has already become an established name due to its excellent food and its striking, minimalist interiors. Lieven, Philipstockstraat 45, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 680975, etenbijlieven.be

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Café

Where fans of luxury perfume, skincare and make-up buy tax free. YOUR FAVORITE PRODUCTS LESS EXPENSIVE IN BELGIUM

www.planetparfum.com

58 | G U I D E

SHOP DIARY

THIS SEASON’S MUST–DOS Leonardo da Vinci Don’t miss the biggest ever exhibition on Leonardo da Vinci, with more than 100 models of his inventions and machines. Visit xpo-center-bruges.be

OCT

NOV

Luc Vanlaere concerts Music fans will be captivated by the compositions of Luc

Vanlaere at his regular free concerts in the Oud Sint-Jan cultural site in the heart of Bruges. Visit harpmuziek.be Bruges tour On 26 December enjoy a trip around Bruges with a local guide. It finishes with breathtaking views from the Concertgebouw rooftop, which is exclusively opened for the tour. Visit ticketsbrugge.be

DEC

Steenstraat & Noordzandstraat CINQUE ● DOMIQUE MEIR ●

Markt

A AT

K ER

KH OF

A AT

NOO

R DZ A

NDST

R A AT

ST E

ENS

TR A

AA T

●M P IE R IS S W RE M MOG ●M ●N GY V IVA A R C O L R 43 E LV 77 IN ●D B R U IN I ● EM REX ● E TA L E O N IDG G E ● OL F M L IN ASH AS ● IO N GER ●S ●G IE ● ● P C A PA TH A ASTR HANS ANDERS ● AVA ● K ANDO ● EEX U N IQ U A NCE ● L IP L IN G R A ● ● F O P E R IE NE C H O C ● JA IU JO OLA T OMM ● M OT LOC CE TE ● D CK WO D ID I OV E YH K ANN TA L VERITAS ● ON ER E E L L F S K IN K IN G IL F IG E R ● G S BON ● FRE ● M a le r ia In BON ● BB N E C XX no -V E R H● YB S IC I P ● MO HEE HOP A R IS G G Y ’S S ● CA PA R WA R O C K E ● XL ● ● MA IS -L ● Z M A IE U O VSK ● P IC JO R K IC K MAS A L' O N D R E I ● Z CO B ● C& R A S IM DDP O D U C C ITA N S ● EL LO PA R ●G A E● T TI ●R IS ● E ● OUG ● Y OX VES EGO ●O ROC RGE K HER HUN ● N A ÏD I ● NO KE V IA O B G U IL R IV E M Ö L L E ● H TEBOO ● S C O DY A● IT R M RW B JÖ R OTC OOD ● ● IC F O O T W N BO H 'R B S I E P RG ● ● ELLE CEL ● W A R IS X A R L' H E U N JO IO E ● GE R O ÏN ● C A WO M E L UR A WE MEN ● R RY E● N WO L IL L E WEB ● ● E S S S IS FOR ER P IC K U R S ● D● P R IT W IC K ● P IM E K IE L MOR IL ● TO GAN ● TE M E E GO ES P ● LA G ÖS T FA N IN I ● F O O L IN O K A CH IS AN RO 12 3 E O NEU RME S A R A R R AW ● H AU ● TH OC NE E & AN R AD M N B ON LO N AH P ● E M S● LA A C IN ● C H L I I L L E B L PA O U ESS & I● ●7 ● D U CE ENT L IZ JK D CA A RI AN S SP B R IE L M E ● R ● ● R LA B ELG ● E S M IC IE R IN C O R ● LE PH U A C O O O K LY N ● SEN E● GF N M CE ● G B IC A● ZA GA TE IE NTE ● LD IL MA ● S R● ● ● D SON GA ● ● CA S IX S IN E ROL D ● ● L UUR JUL LED L E R W IE P H U IS W ● ST A ES ARE AT E ● ● C CE GA ERKE H& N● OF A M N R L ● F M BO O L R O M IS S A ER T ● CS ●V RM E T IE BA Y S IX T EN M XM E SE ●M K Y EP ● A ● N N IZ I S C GR HI R A G IR H O P E EGO ● ST ● H W LO R AL ● DO OK O EM VE BO M ● ● RO A AY CA GE MO ER ● D ZA A/ LI RA ● J AC NE VA K & P IE C E ● ● JON S ● N DA ES ● TH ● E B ZARA LE NO O K DY N UK S H ID S ● P E IR IE O GEERT POLLENTIER ● S SEG ER A P ● GÉ AE M ● R L A E● K RD V NA D K AN PP T AR M E N A P P B O M A R G AE L ● R D TA M E ESS U N RG L ● ● ● CAROLI N E BI SS EN OR A ● TO T D● ● PETIT BATEAU T WIE L A VA IC E N T W AT ● EDISAC AL A S AS ER S-LONDRE I R PA ● R -S T S A N IC E P ● T RALLAX T P PA ● E S O N A C WO DC B M T P R H A ● SI N D ● DE ARK VAN ZA RREN M E Y E A IL IK A ● OP N 'S S P O R ● T IE Z A ● QUIKE VITAL KD E C R R IT ● I D ● IKKS ELB E H ET ● Z Ü ● Z A RA HOM E R EC & M ● EZ M O IT U AQ U E ● ONE ● STREET GO GG L S ● ● MASSIMO DUTTI Y 'S ● ● SAXON ● ● SUPERDR Y

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Department Store

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64 71

TRANSLATIONS 中文翻译

30: New Fashion Heroes 时尚新杰在安特卫普六君子于时尚界初露锋芒近 30年之后，Beth Druce发现他们的家乡依然创意人才云集大约 30年前，Ann Demeulemeester、Marina Ye、Dries Van Noten、Dirk Bikkembergs、Dirk van Saene和 Walter Van Beirendonck在全球时尚界掀起了天翻地覆的变化。1988年 3月，这些来自安特卫普皇家艺术学院的毕业生（后来被人们称作“安特卫普六君子”）凭借解构式、概念性的设计方法惊艳了伦敦时尚周，业内至今尚存余音。如今，安特卫普依然是创意人才的沃土。皇家艺术学院常年被评为全球顶尖的时尚教育机构之一，安

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特卫普城内也傲立着 MoMu时装博物馆（ ModeMuseum）、时尚图书馆和众多精品店及画廊。这些元素组合在一起，为安特卫普赋予了无与伦比的时装资质。目前，许多极具创新精神的新锐设计师正在这座城市崭露头角。 Marius Janusauskas于 2012年从皇家艺术学院毕业，随后便凭借自身的能力声名鹊起。他的设计独具匠心，结合了摩登的造型和面料以及发人深省的主题。与这所名校的众多校友一样，Janusauskas认为正是这段求学经历以及安特卫普这座城市塑造了他的职业生涯。“我之所以选择来到安特卫普皇家艺术学院求学，是因为想要接受国际水平的教育。我做梦也想不到，竟然能有机会向 Walter Van Beirendonck 或 Dirk van Saene这样的时尚界传奇取经。” 他如是说道。毕业五年后，Janusauskas已经成为这座城市最出色的时尚创意家之

PHOTO: KRIS DE SMEDT

一，他将艺术、文化和文学元素融入到了作品之中。“在设计新系列之前，我会先看看新奇的玩意儿，关注社交媒体动向，研究文化和艺术。”他解释道， “ 对时尚设计师来说，知晓时事至关重要。经过了详尽的调查、用心的选色和对技术细节的雕琢，你才能形成整体的概念。” 从皇家艺术学院毕业后，Toos Franken发布了同名产品线，并在比利时的两大时尚品牌 Ann Demeulemeester和 Haider Ackermann旗下历练多时，潜心学习打版流程。如今，她的女装系列已经具备了独一无二的品质。她将自己的风格描述为“一种用来表达对某些事物之感受的方式”。名为 Micro Manifesto的 2017/ 18秋冬系列糅合了极简主义的中性气质与概念性的奇异细节。她的灵感来自于艺术家 Sarah Anne Johnson的摄影作品集《 Arctic Wonderland》。Franken 说，作品“讲述的是自然之美，以及因一切都被人类掌控和改造而产生的结果，比如说全球变暖。我努力去创造带有解构感的作品，比如在夹克衫和毛衣的袖子里装上拉链。衣袖可以拆卸，但却不是非拆不可。”她补充说，这就好像您可以稍稍作出调整，但如果改动太大， “ 就依然会看见伤疤”。这个系列的配色以黑色、电蓝色和柔粉色为主。其中的概念性元素包括以长条缎带制成的高领，拼接拉链的衣袖和裙装，以及偶尔出现的、效果出人意料的花饰。 Wim Bruynooghe不仅因其时尚作品而著称，还是一位颇负盛名的企业家。这位设计师于1988年出生于布鲁日，从皇家艺术学院毕业后，他便于 2013年在安特卫普创立了自己的品牌。其作品将传统女装技艺与运动风元素巧妙结合，采用羊毛和山羊绒（开司米）等质感出众的面料制作而成，很快便吸引了一批拥趸。2016

年，Bruynooghe跻身福布斯财富榜 30位最富有的 30岁以下欧洲企业家之列。他目前担任 Ucwhy品牌的艺术总监，其独特的面料剪裁和拼接手法已然成为这个新晋品牌的一大卖点。丰富的文化底蕴为安特卫普吸引了济济人才，而该市在孕育创意方面的投资同样功不可没。Janusauskas 表示，皇家艺术学院的服装系之所以能有一批如此令人赞叹的校友，是因为该校为大多数人提供了负担得起的教育。他认为，学校关注的焦点在于“ 人才而非财务数字”。正因如此，若您想用前卫时装填满衣橱，安特卫普必是首选去处。

36: Time Travel 时光之旅在众多至今仍然生机勃勃的传统品牌和旧日遗迹中，Hannah Lewis带您探索鲜活的比利时历史

PHOTO: JESSE WILLEMS

探索一个国家之时，最令人振奋的活动莫过于发掘当地鲜活的历史。发现一个国家的某段历史仍存留于今时今日的民族内在特征之中，这是一种无可比拟的体验。比利时拥有堪称海量的传统商店和品牌，至今仍然欣欣向荣。您不妨从全球首屈一指的手袋品牌或是十六世纪的跳蚤市场入手，开启一段时光倒流之旅。 Delvaux于1829年在布鲁塞尔诞生，它是全球最古老的专业奢侈皮具品牌之一。实际上，若论历史之悠久，该品牌较比利时本身还要更胜一筹。在 Delvaux成立一年后，也就是 1830年，比利时才宣布从荷兰独立。Delvaux的手袋享誉全球，在 188 年的辉煌历史中，Delvaux能够紧随时代潮流，不断挑战设计之极限，与此同时对传统工艺和技术满怀敬意，令人叹为观止。您可前往位于布鲁塞尔滑铁卢大道（ boulevard de Waterloo）

的 Delvaux时尚精品店，鉴赏精美绝伦的手袋系列。自1829年至今，Delvaux已推出超过 3000款设计，其中最有名的一款无疑是 Brillant 手袋。这只引人注目的手袋于1958年面世，一经发布便广受追捧，至今仍是终极典藏单品。比利时素以工艺卓绝的皮革制品而著称，其盛名远不止于手袋而已。驻足在安特卫普的 Lombardenvest 购物街，您可留意 Ganterie Boon这家商店。这是比利时最古老的手套商店之一，也是安特卫普唯一一家留存至今的同类商店，吸引着世界各地的游客纷至沓来。这家精品店创立于 1884年，早在 130多年前就开始专门出售手工制作的手套。其产品类型之丰富令人震撼，能够满足顾客的不同品味和各种场合的需求。店内奢华皮革品类繁多，羊皮、鹿皮和野猪皮等等任君挑选；款式设计林林总总，无论是用于驾驶汽车还是佩戴出席正式场合，都能找到合适您的那一款；配色选择同样纷繁，既有醒目的芥末黄，也有经典的棕褐色。店里精美的新艺术风格保存完好，与别具历史意义的手套箱、柜台和家具相得益彰。造访 Boon精品店，无异于在时光中穿梭，品味往昔的风采。

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1847年，位于布鲁塞尔市中心的圣于贝尔皇家长廊（the Galeries Royales Saint- Hubert）在利奥波德一世国王（ King Leopold I）的主持下举行了开幕仪式。这条拱廊高贵优雅，其设计让独具慧眼的顾客在寒冷的天气中既能享受温暖又不失风度，是同类功用建筑中的先锋；它引人注目的外观和拱形玻璃廊顶给世界上无数类似建筑带来了灵感。因其精美的建筑和附近五花八门的商店，圣于贝尔皇家长廊成为了布鲁塞尔的必游之处。如今，长廊内一如既往地荟萃着许多市内最奢华的精品店和餐厅，当然也少不了比利时巧克力专门店。若您想尝试非一般的购物体验，那么一定要去一趟安特卫普的 Vrijdagmarkt— — 一家热闹非凡的周五跳蚤市场。Vrijdagmarkt的规模之大、氛围之佳一定会让您惊叹不已。商贩像是仍在 Vrijdagmarkt建立之初的十六世纪一般，兴致高昂地进行商品拍卖。若您想体验历史风情，那么比利时的传统商店则大有看头。Goossens 是安特卫普市最古老的面包店，许多人认为它也是全市最好的一家。您能看到 Goossens的橱窗里堆满了美

味无比、新鲜出炉的面包和糕点等食品。但您可得做好排队的准备，这家店在本地人和游客当中都备受欢迎。来到布鲁日，您不妨去 Vlissinghe咖啡馆坐坐。这是布鲁日最古老的咖啡馆，关于 Vlissinghe的书面记录可追溯到1515年 — —几个世纪以来从未停止经营。世界各地的游客远道而来，在这里体验有名的 Vlissinghe氛围，享受一顿轻食，品尝一两杯必不可少的当地啤酒。我们推荐您来一杯 Hoegaarden啤酒，这家广受喜爱的著名啤酒厂始创于 1445年。尝一口 Hoegaarden的麦芽酒，定能为您的历史探索之旅增添浓浓回味。如果没有品尝过声名远扬的精美巧克力，那么这趟比利时之旅一定是不完整的。说到品尝巧克力，还有什么地方比 Confiserie De Clerck更合适呢？这家仿若时光隧道的甜品店位于Academiestraat大街，邻近布鲁日市中心，拥有一个多世纪的历史，家族经营模式延续至今。您可以在这里找到许多传统的比利时佳肴，还有奢华版的经典松露巧克力和果仁糖。对于热爱巧克力的游客而言，一盒 De Clerck巧克力绝对是完美的纪

念品— —前提是您能抵抗住立刻吃掉的诱惑。

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 30: New Fashion Heroes

59: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税

当您在全球顶级购物区中的 3 0 多万家商店消费时，环球蓝联购物退税服务（Global Blue Tax Free Shopping）为您节省购物开销。每年大约有两千六百多万名游客享用环球蓝联（Global Blue）的购物退税服务，何不加入他们的行列？您只需在购物时留意环球蓝联（Global Blue）的蓝星标志，或直接问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 ( Global Blue）退税服务，然后遵循以下简单的退税流程即可：

1. 购物消费在橱窗里带有环球蓝联退税 ( Global Blue Tax Free) 标志的商店中购物时，请向店员出示护照原件，索要环球蓝联退税表格 ( Global Blue Tax Free Form），并保存好购物票据。

2. 申领退税在您返程离境前，请前往海关柜台，出示退税表格和相关票据，获取海关印章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点领取退税款。联系方式：

taxfree@ globalblue. com + 421 232 111 111 最低消费 € 50即可申请退税，能够节省高达 16%的商品购买价。请注意：您收到的退税款是增值税减去环球蓝联的手续费。如果您选择现金退税，部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退税手续费。

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Новые Герои Моды

Прошло почти три десятилетия после того, как Антверпенская шестерка всколыхнула модную индустрию, а родной город дизайнеров по-прежнему остается полон талантов, – рассказывает Бет Дрюс Минуло почти 30 лет с тех пор, как Анн Демельмейстер, Марина Йи, Дрис Ван Нотен, Дирк Биккембергс, Дирк ван Сэн и Вальтер ван Бейрендонк произвели фурор в мире моды. В марте 1988 года эти выпускники Королевской академии изящных искусств (позже их прозвали Антверпенской шестеркой) поразили Лондонскую Неделю моды своим деконструктивным, концептуальным подходом к дизайну. Влияние их коллекций ощущается до сих пор. Сегодня Антверпен предлагает множество благоприятных возможностей для развития молодых талантов. Королевская академия считается одним из ведущих в мире учебных заведений в области моды, а в городе имеются музей моды MoMu, библиотека моды и несметное число бутиков и галерей. Все это придает Антверпену особый статус города дизайнеров, ряды которых продолжают пополняться.

Мариус Янусаускас окончил Королевскую академию в 2012 году и с тех пор его работы привлекают все больше внимания. В своем творчестве дизайнер сочетает современные формы и текстуры с оригинальными мотивами. Как и многие выпускники знаменитой академии, Янусаускас считает жизнь и учебу в Антверпене главным фактором, повлиявшим на его карьеру. «Я решил пойти в Королевскую академию в Антверпене, потому что хотел получить образование мирового уровня. Но я даже и не предполагал, что моими учителями станут такие легенды, как Вальтер ван Бейрендонк или Дирк ван Сэн»,

– говорит он. Прошло пять лет после окончания академии, и Янусаускас считается одним из ведущих талантов в области дизайна в городе, а его работы содержат отсылки к искусству, культуре и литературе. «Прежде чем начать работу над новой коллекцией я изучаю новинки индустрии, социальные сети, культуру и искусство, – поясняет он. – Понимание того, что происходит в сегодняшнем мире имеет важное значение для дизайнера одежды. Будущая концепция определяется сама собой, благодаря исследованиям, тщательному выбору цвета и технических деталей». Тоос Франкен запустила

свой одноименный бренд после окончания Королевской академии и последующей стажировки в бельгийских брендах Ann Demeulemeester и Haider Ackermann, где молодой дизайнер посвятила себя созданию узоров. Сегодня ее коллекции женской одежды отличаются уникальным качеством. Свой стиль она называет «способом выразить свои чувства». Коллекция осень-зима 2017-18 под заголовком Micro Manifesto сочетает минималистскую андрогинность и необычные концептуальные детали. Вдохновением для дизайнера послужила серия фотографий Сары Анны Джонсон под названием «Арктическая страна globalblue.ru

чудес». «Она посвящена красоте природы и последствиям

PHOTO: KRIS DE SMEDT

вмешательства человека в окружающую среду. Мне хотелось создать коллекцию с оттенком деконструкции, например, вставить молнии на рукава курток и свитеров. Рукава можно при желании отстегнуть», – говорит Франкен. По ее словам, это должно напомнить о том, что, если вносить слишком много изменений, то неизбежно остаются «видимые шрамы». В основу коллекции положена палитра из черного, синего и нежно-розового. Среди концептуальных деталей выделяются высокие воротники с длинными лентами; рукава и юбки с молниями; и, что неожиданно, – корсажи. Вим Брёйноге знаменит не только благодаря своему вкладу в мир моды, но и предпринимательскому таланту. Дизайнер родился в Брюгге в 1988 году, окончил Королевскую академию, а в 2013 году основал в Антверпене свой бренд. Ему быстро удалось завоевать симпатию публики. В своем творчестве он придерживается традиционных методов дизайна с вкраплением элементов спортивного стиля и текстурированных тканей таких, как шерсть и кашемир. В 2016 году он вошел в тридцатку лучших предпринимателей по версии Forbes. В настоящее время Брёйноге занимает должность креативного директора в Ucwhy; его фирменный стиль в виде

драпированных тканей принес этому начинающему бренду большую славу. Культурное богатство Антверпена и городские инвестиции в сферу образования играют важную роль в привлечении новых талантов. По словам Янусаускаса, популярность факультета моды при Королевской академии объясняется доступностью обучения для большинства людей. Главный акцент делается «на талантах, нежели на финансах», – говорит он. Поэтому, если вы хотите обновить свой гардероб ультрасовременными новинками – Антверпен должен быть вашей первой инстанцией.

36: Time Travel

При знакомстве со страной всегда интересно узнать ее историю, особенно, если отдельные фрагменты дошли до нас в целости и сохранности, во многом определив ее внутренний облик. В Бельгии представлено великое множество старинных магазинов и брендов, которые все еще процветают. Стоит сделать лишь один шаг, и вы обнаружите практически все: от ведущих мировых брендов аксессуаров до блошиных рынков 16 века. Основанный в 1829 году в Брюсселе Delvaux является одним из старейших в мире брендов, специализирующихся на роскошных товарах из кожи. На самом деле, он даже старше самой Бельгии, которая получила независимость от Нидерландов годом позднее, в 1830. Delvaux известен на весь мир своими сумками, и за 188 лет существования смог продемонстрировать способность идти в ногу со временем, расширяя границы дизайнерского мастерства, и в то же время оставаясь верным традиционному мастерству. Посетите стильный бутик бренда на бульваре de Waterloo в Брюсселе, чтобы познакомиться с его изысканными коллекциями. Более 3000 фасонов было выпущено с 1829 года, однако globalblue.ru

самой популярной, без сомнения, остается модель Brillant. Эта великолепная сумка была выпущена в 1958 году и до сих пор пользуется спросом у многих женщин. Бельгия известна далеко не только своими сумками. На Lombardenvest в Антверпене расположился Ganterie Boon, один из самых старых магазинов перчаток в стране и единственный в своем роде в городе. Этот бутик, основанный в 1884 году, уже более 130 лет предлагает посетителям перчатки ручной работы. Здесь представлен широчайший ассортимент на любой вкус и случай. На выбор модели из самых шикарных видов кожи, включая овечью, оленью и дикой свиньи; здесь можно найти перчатки практически для всего: от автомобильных до деловых. Радует и цветовая палитра, обратите внимание на яркий горчичный или классический бежевый. Интерьер в стиле

PHOTO: DELVAUX

Путешествие Во Времени

PHOTO: BELGIANCHOCOLATE CC BY 2.0

модерн не сильно поменялся со времен открытия, как, впрочем, и упаковка, прилавки и мебель, поэтому посещение Ganterie Boon будет сродни экскурсу в прошлое. Королевские галереи Святого Юбера, расположенные в самом центре Брюсселя, были открыты королем Леопольдом I в 1847 году. Этот элегантный пассаж был создан специально, чтобы покупатели могли чувствовать себя комфортно в зимние месяцы, став первым в своем роде. Потрясающий фасад и стеклянная крыша вдохновили не одного архитектора на постройку подобных сооружений. Здесь стоит побывать и ради великолепной архитектуры, и ради шоппинга. Как и прежде, здесь располагаются самые роскошные в городе бутики, кафе и, конечно, знаменитые бельгийские кондитерские. Совершенно другой шоппинг вас ждет в

антверпенском Vrijdagmarkt, блошином рынке, работающем каждую пятницу. Его масштабы и атмосфера воодушевлят любого. Многие продавцы проводят аукционы, подобные тем, что проводились здесь еще в 16 веке. Если вам захочется не только увидеть, но и попробовать на вкус частичку бельгийской истории, то стоит посетить одно из традиционных заведений. Кондитерская Goossens в Антверпене – одна из старейших и лучших в городе. Ее витрины уставлены аппетитным свежим хлебом, булками и другой выпечкой. Возможно, придется немного постоять в очереди – это место весьма популярно как среди местных, так и среди туристов. В Брюгге непременно стоит посетить кафе Vlissinghe. Оно считается одним из самых старых в городе, задокументированная дата его основания – 1515 год. Сюда съезжаются посетители из самых разных мест, чтобы окунуться в неповторимую атмосферу, насладиться легким обедом или пропустить по бокалу местного пива. Мы рекомендуем попробовать Hoegaarden. Эта знаменитая и любимая многими пивоварня была основана в 1445 году, поэтому бокал традиционного пива позволит вам в прямом смысл соприкоснуться с историей

59: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

globalblue.ru

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум 50 € и сэкономьте до 16% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

страны. Ни одно путешествие в Бельгию не обходится без дегустации популярного во всем мире бельгийского шоколада. И вряд ли для этой цели найдется лучшее место, чем Confiserie De Clerck. Этот магазин на Academiestraat в центре Брюгге был основан столетие назад. Здесь предлагают большинство разновидностей традиционных сладостей, включая роскошные версии классических трюфелей и пралине. Коробка шоколадных конфет De Clerck станет прекрасным сувениром для ваших родных и близких, если, конечно, вам удастся устоять перед таким искушением и довезти и ее в целости.

‫‪71‬‬

‫إىل أ ّن زيارة ‪ Boon‬هي رحلة إىل املايض بح ّد‬ ‫ذاتها‪ ،‬نتيجة الحفاظ بجمل ّية عىل مزايا األرت‬ ‫نوفو و ُعلب القفّازات والطاوالت وقطع األثاث‬ ‫املحل‪.‬‬ ‫التاريخيّة املوجودة يف ّ‬ ‫يف وسط بروكسل‪ ،‬افتتح امللك ‪Leoplod‬‬ ‫األ ّول ‪Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert‬‬ ‫سنة ‪ُ .1847‬ص ّمم هذا السوق املسقوف ليوفّر‬ ‫الدفء إىل الزبائن املتألّقني يف األشهر الباردة‬ ‫وكان األ ّول من نوعه‪ .‬وقد ألهمت واجهته‬ ‫امللفتة وسقفه الزجاجي املق ّوس الكثري من‬ ‫املنشآت الشبيهة األخرى حول العامل‪ .‬ال ب ّد من‬ ‫زيارة هذا السوق لالطّالع عىل هندسته وما‬ ‫يشمل من ت ّجار‪ .‬كان وما زال يض ّم بعض أفخر‬ ‫املتاجر واملقاهي وبالطبع محالت الشوكوالتة‬ ‫يف املدينة‪.‬‬ ‫الختبار تجربة تس ّوق مختلفة‪ ،‬اقصد‬ ‫سوق الربغوث الحيوي ‪ Vrijdagmarkt‬الذي‬ ‫كل يوم جمعة‪ .‬ال ّ‬ ‫شك أنّك ستُذهل‬ ‫يُنظّم ّ‬ ‫بحجم السوق واألجواء السائدة فيه‪ ،‬حيث يبيع‬ ‫الت ّجار منتجاتهم باملزاد كم كانوا يفعلون عند‬ ‫تأسيس السوق يف القرن السادس عرش‪.‬‬ ‫إن رغبت بتذ ّوق طعم املايض‪ ،‬تقدّم‬ ‫لك بلجيكا الكثري من خالل منشآت تقليديّة‪.‬‬ ‫تجد يف أنتويرب أقدم فرنٍ يف املدينة وهو‬ ‫‪ Goossens‬الذي يعتربه كثريون األشهى عىل‬ ‫اإلطالق‪ .‬تتك ّوم فيه أنواع الخبز واملع ّجنات‬ ‫الشهيّة الطازجة وغريها الكثري‪ .‬لك ّن الطابور‬ ‫أمامه طويل إذ يقصده املحليّون والس ّواح‬ ‫عىل ح ّد سواء‪ .‬ومث ّة يف ‪ Bruges‬مقهى‬ ‫‪ .Vlissinghe‬إنّه أقدم مقهى من نوعه يف‬ ‫املدينة‪ ،‬يعود إىل العام ‪ 1515‬بحسب السجالت‪.‬‬ ‫حدب وصوب ليستمتعوا‬ ‫يقصده الز ّوار من ّ‬ ‫كل ٍ‬ ‫بأجوائه الذائعة الصيت ويتلذّذوا بوجب ٍة خفيفة‬ ‫ويحتسوا بالطبع كوباً أو كوبني من البرية‬ ‫املحليّة‪ .‬ننصح ببرية ‪ ،Hoegaarden‬هذه‬ ‫تأسست سنة ‪ ،1445‬ومن‬ ‫املخمرة املرغوبة التي ّ‬ ‫شأن برية حلوة الطعم منها أن تُغني رحلتك‬ ‫االستكشافيّة التاريخيّة‪.‬‬ ‫ال تكتمل الرحلة إىل بلجيكا من دون‬ ‫التلذّذ ببعض قطع الشوكوالتة الشه ّية‬ ‫الشهرية يف البالد‪ ،‬وما هو املكان األفضل‬ ‫من ‪ Confiserie De Clerck‬لتذ ّوقها؟‬ ‫محل الحلويات التقليدي هذا يف شارع‬ ‫يقع ّ‬ ‫‪ Academiestraat‬بالقرب من وسط‬

‫تأسس منذ حوايل القرن وما زال ملكاً‬ ‫‪ّ ،Bruges‬‬ ‫للعائلة‪ .‬تجد فيه الكثري من األطايب البلجيك ّية‬ ‫املكسات‬ ‫وتشكيلة متن ّوعة من الرتافل وحلوى ّ‬ ‫الكالسيكيّة‪ .‬بالتايل‪ ،‬تشكّل علبة من شوكوالتة‬ ‫ُحب‪،‬‬ ‫‪ De Clerck‬تذكارا ً مثال ّياً تأخذها ملن ت ّ‬ ‫إن متكّنت من مقاومة إلتهامها بنفسك‪.‬‬ ‫‪59: When You Shop The‬‬ ‫‪World, Shop Tax Free‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الرضيبة‬ ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة‬ ‫التس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة ‪Tax Free‬‬ ‫لتدّخر املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكرث من ‪300,000‬‬ ‫متجر يف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العامل‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ال تنض ّم إىل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين‬ ‫يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الرضيبة من خالل‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك‬ ‫غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫إال أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن‬ ‫غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا‬ ‫السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عىل طلب‬ ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو ‪Global‬‬ ‫اسرتداد الرضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصاالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫يف طريق العودة إىل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب‬ ‫الجمرك عند نقطة املغادرة لتتم املصادقة عىل‬ ‫إيصاالتك قبل قبض االسرتداد من أحد مكاتب‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫االسرتداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لالت ّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪111 111 232 +421‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدىن قدره‪ 50 €‬وادّخر حتّى ‪16%‬‬ ‫من مثن مشرتياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ االسرتداد‬ ‫النهايئ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الرضيبة‬ ‫عىل القيمة املضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬يف بعض‬ ‫املطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عىل كل‬ ‫طلب اسرتداد رضيبة يف حال رغبت بالحصول‬ ‫عىل اسرتداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

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‫تجارية باسمه يف أنتويرب سنة ‪ .2013‬وما‬ ‫لبث أن لفت األنظار بتصاميمه التي تجمع بني‬ ‫تقنيّات الخياطة التقليديّة من جهة والعنارص‬ ‫املستوحاة من الرياضة من جهة أخرى‪،‬‬ ‫املصنوعة من أقمشة كثيفة كالصوف والكشمري‪.‬‬ ‫سنة ‪ ،2016‬ورد إسمه يف الئحة فوربس لر ّواد‬ ‫األعامل األوروبيّني الثالثني دون س ّن الثالثني‪.‬‬ ‫يشغل ‪ Bruynooghe‬حال ّياً منصب املدير‬ ‫الف ّني لـ ‪ Ucwhy‬وهي عالمة تجاريّة صاعدة‬ ‫تحقّق النجاح بفضل أسلوبه الخاص بتفصيل‬ ‫األقمشة‪.‬‬ ‫يلعب الغنى الثقايف دورا ً يف جذب‬ ‫املواهب إىل أنتويرب وكذلك َسعي املدينة إىل‬ ‫تشجيع االبتكار‪ .‬عىل ح ّد تعبري ‪،Janusauskas‬‬ ‫تزخر كليّة األزياء يف األكادمييّة امللكيّة بقامئة‬ ‫ملفتة من الخ ّريجني نتيجة توفريها التعليم‬ ‫بأسعار مقبولة ملعظم الناس‪ .‬ويضيف أنّه يت ّم‬ ‫الرتكيز عىل "املوهبة وليس عىل األرقام املال ّية"‪.‬‬ ‫لذا‪ ،‬إن ِ‬ ‫كنت ترغبني بأزياء مبتكرة‪ ،‬الب ّد أن‬ ‫تكون أنتويرب وجهتك األوىل‪.‬‬ ‫‪Time Travel :36‬‬

‫السفر عرب الزمن‬

‫تنبعث الحياة مجدّدا ً يف تاريخ بلجيكا من‬ ‫خالل مجموعة من العالمات التجاريّة واألماكن‬ ‫العريقة التي ال تزال حيويّة اليوم‪ ،‬تقرير‬ ‫‪Hannah Lewis‬‬

‫‪PHOTO: DELVAUX‬‬

‫لدى زيارة ٍ‬ ‫بلد جديد‪ ،‬من أروع األشياء التي قد‬ ‫الحي‪ .‬فال يشء‬ ‫تفعلها هي اسكتشاف تاريخه ّ‬ ‫يضاهي إيجاد قسمٍ من مايض أُ ّمة ما زال صامدا ً‬ ‫ويشكّل جزءا ً من طابع البالد اليوم‪ .‬تض ّم بلجيكا‬ ‫مجموعة غن ّية من املحالت والعالمات التجاريّة‬ ‫التاريخيّة التي ما زالت مزدهرة‪ .‬لذا عند زيارة‬ ‫هذا البلد‪ ،‬اطّلع عىل ماضيه من خالل أمور‬ ‫عدّة؛ بدءا ً بإحدى العالمات التجاريّة الرائدة‬ ‫عامليّاً يف مجال حقائب اليد إىل سوق الربغوث‬ ‫من القرن السادس عرش‪.‬‬ ‫تأسست عالمة ‪ Delvaux‬سنة ‪1829‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يف بروكسل وهي أحد أقدم خرباء صناعة‬ ‫السلع الجلديّة الفاخرة يف العامل‪ .‬يف الواقع‪ ،‬إنّها‬ ‫أقدم من بلجيكا بح ّد ذاتها التي استقلّت عن‬ ‫هولندا يف السنة التالية‪ ،‬أي سنة ‪ .1830‬تشتهر‬

‫‪ Delvaux‬بحقائب اليد حول العامل‪ ،‬ويف خالل‬ ‫سنوات خربتها الـ ‪ ،188‬أظهرت قدرة ملفتة عىل‬ ‫مجاراة العرص واالبتكار يف التصميم‪ ،‬مع احرتام‬ ‫الحرف والتقن ّيات التقليديّة‪.‬‬ ‫محل العالمة املثري لالهتامم يف‬ ‫اقصد ّ‬ ‫شارع ‪ Waterloo‬يف بروكسل لتطّلع عىل‬ ‫مجموعاتها املم ّيزة‪ .‬منذ العام ‪ ،1829‬ابتُكر ما‬ ‫يزيد عن ‪ 3000‬تصميم وأشهرهام ‪Brilliant‬‬ ‫من دون أدىن ّ‬ ‫شك‪ .‬خطفت هذه الحقيبة‬ ‫الرائعة األضواء فور إطالقها سنة ‪ 1958‬وال تزال‬ ‫إحدى أبرز القطع النادرة التي يجمعها هواة‬ ‫الحقائب حتّى يومنا هذا‪.‬‬ ‫كام تشتهر بلجيكا باالمتياز يف الصناعات‬ ‫الجلديّة يف مجاالت تتخطّى حدود حقائب اليد‪.‬‬ ‫محل ‪ Ganterie Boon‬يف شارع‬ ‫ابحث عن ّ‬ ‫‪ Lombardenvest‬يف أنتويرب‪ .‬إنّه أحد أقدم‬ ‫محالت القفّازات يف البالد والوحيد من نوعه‬ ‫الباقي يف املدينة ويجذب الز ّوار من حول العامل‪.‬‬ ‫تأٍّ ّسس سنة ‪ 1884‬ويبيع استثنائيّاً منذ ما يزيد‬ ‫عن ‪130‬سنة قفّازات مصنوعة يدويّاً‪ .‬يض ّم‬ ‫تشكيلة رائعة تالئم كافّة األذواق واملناسبات‪.‬‬ ‫ميكن االختيار من مجموعة متن ّوعة من الجلود‬ ‫الفاخرة تشمل جلد الغنم وجلد الغزال‪ ،‬ومن‬ ‫موديالت مص ّممة ملختلف األوقات‪ ،‬من تلك‬ ‫اخرت‬ ‫الخاصة بالقيادة إىل املناسبات الرسم ّية‪ً .‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بغض النظر إن كان‬ ‫اللّون الذي تريده بعناية‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫خردليّاً ناصعاً أو أسمرا ً كالسيكيّاً‪ .‬تجدر اإلشارة‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪73‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪New Fashion Heroes :30‬‬

‫أبطال جدد يف عامل األزياء‬

‫بعد انقضاء حوايل ثالثة عقود عىل إحداث‬ ‫مجموعة املص ّممني ‪ Antwerp Six‬تغيريا ً يف‬ ‫عامل التصميم‪ ،‬تجد ‪ Beth Druce‬أ ّن مواهب‬ ‫االبتكار ال تزال تنبع من مسقط رأسهم‬ ‫منذ حوايل الثالثني سنة‪ ،‬شهدت ساحة‬ ‫األزياء العامليّة ثور ًة عىل يد ‪Ann‬‬ ‫‪ Demeulemeester‬و‪Marina‬‬ ‫‪ Yee‬و‪ Dries Van Noten‬و‪Dirk‬‬ ‫‪ Bikkembergs‬و‪Dirk van Saene‬‬ ‫و‪ .Walter Van Beirendonck‬يف آذار‪/‬‬ ‫مارس ‪ ،1988‬شارك هؤالء املتخ ّرجون يف‬ ‫األكادمي ّية امللك ّية للفنون الجميلة يف أنتويرب‬ ‫(يُعرفون بـ ‪ )Antwerp Six‬يف أسبوع لندن‬ ‫للموضة وأذهلوا الحضور مبقاربتهم الجديدة‬ ‫واملفاهيم ّية إىل التصميم‪ .‬ما زالت بصامتهم‬ ‫واضحة يف مجال األزياء‪.‬‬ ‫وتبقى أنتويرب أرضاً خصبة للمواهب‬ ‫االبتكاريّة‪ .‬تُص ّنف األكادمي ّية امللك ّية باستمرار‬ ‫مؤسسات تعليم األزياء الرائدة عامليّاً‪،‬‬ ‫كإحدى ّ‬ ‫يف حني تض ّم املدينة بح ّد ذاتها ‪( MoMu‬أي‬ ‫متحف املوضة ‪ )Mode Museum‬ومكتبة‬ ‫مختصة باألزياء ومجموعة واسعة من املحالت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫واملعارض‪ .‬فتكتسب أنتويرب الثقة يف مجال‬ ‫األزياء وينبثق منها اليوم بعض أكرث املص ّممني‬ ‫الجدد ابتكارا ً‪.‬‬ ‫تخ ّرج ‪ Marius Janusauskas‬يف‬ ‫األكادمييّة امللكيّة للفنون الجميلة سنة ‪2012‬‬ ‫ويعمل مذّاك عىل إثبات وجوده‪ .‬تدمج‬ ‫تصاميمه الغنيّة األشكال واألقمشة العرصيّة‬ ‫باملفاهيم املحفّزة للفكر‪ .‬عىل غرار خ ّريجني‬ ‫كثريين يف األكادمي ّية الشهرية يف املدينة‪ ،‬يعترب‬ ‫‪ Janusauskas‬أ ّن للخربة التي اكتسبها يف‬ ‫األكادمييّة ويف أنتويرب دورا ً كبريا ً يف مهنته‪.‬‬ ‫يرشح قائالً‪" :‬اخرتت متابعة دراستي يف‬ ‫األكادمييّة امللكيّة للفنون الجميلة يف أنتويرب‬ ‫ألنّني سعيت إىل تحصيل علمي عىل مستوى‬ ‫عاملي‪ .‬مل أحلم قط بأن تتس ّنى يل الفرصة ألتعلّم‬ ‫من عاملقة األزياء عىل سبيل ‪Walter Van‬‬

‫‪ Beirendonck‬أو ‪".Dirk van Saene‬‬ ‫اليوم وبعد خمس سنوات عىل تخ ّرجه‪،‬‬ ‫يُعترب ‪ Januauskas‬أحد أبرز مبتكري األزياء‬ ‫يف املدينة وتتميّز تصاميمه بارتباطها بالف ّن‬ ‫والثقافة واألدب‪ .‬يقول يف هذا الصدد‪" :‬أبدأ‬ ‫العمل عىل مجموعة جديدة باالطّالع عىل‬ ‫املستجدّات ووسائل التواصل االجتامعي‬ ‫والثقافة والفنون‪ .‬من امله ّم ج ّدا ً بالنسبة‬ ‫إىل مص ّمم األزياء أن يكون عىل معرفة مبا‬ ‫يجري حول العامل اليوم‪ .‬بالتايل يتك ّون مفهوم‬ ‫املجموعة من البحث الشامل واالختيار الصحيح‬ ‫لأللوان والتفاصيل الفنيّة‪".‬‬ ‫أ ّما ‪ ،Toos Franken‬فأطلقت عالمتها‬ ‫التجاريّة التي تحمل إسمها بعد أن تخ ّرجت‬ ‫يف األكادمييّة امللكيّة للفنون الجميلة واكتسبت‬ ‫خربة بالعمل لدى العالمتني البلجيك ّيتني‬ ‫‪ Ann Demeulemeester‬و‪Haidar‬‬ ‫‪ ،Ackermann‬حيث ركّزت عىل صناعة‬ ‫النقوش‪ .‬واليوم تتمتّع مجموعات املالبس‬ ‫النسائيّة التي ابتكرتها بجود ٍة فريدة من نوعها‪.‬‬ ‫عام أشعر‬ ‫تصف أسلوبها بـ "طريقة للتعبري ّ‬ ‫حيال بعض األمور"‪ .‬تحمل مجموعتها لخريف‪/‬‬ ‫شتاء ‪ 2017/2018‬عنوان ‪Micro Manifesto‬‬ ‫وتجمع بني املظهر األنثوي‪/‬الذكري البسيط من‬ ‫جهة والتفاصيل املفاهيميّة املبتكرة من جه ٍة‬ ‫أخرى‪ .‬استوحتها من سلسلة صور ‪Arctic‬‬ ‫‪ Wonderland‬التقطتها الف ّنانة ‪Sarah‬‬ ‫‪ .Anne Johnson‬تعلّق ‪ Franken‬قائلة‪:‬‬ ‫"تتمحور املجموعة حول الجامل الطبيعي وما‬ ‫بكل يش ٍء ويعدّله؛‬ ‫يحصل عندما يتحكّم اإلنسان ّ‬ ‫عىل سبيل االحتباس الحراري نوعاً ما‪ .‬حاولت‬ ‫ابتكار قطعٍ فيها نفحة من الخروج عن املألوف‪،‬‬ ‫كالس ّحابات يف أكامم السرتات والكنزات‪ .‬ميكن‬ ‫فصل األكامم‪ ،‬لكن ليس ذلك بالرضوري‪".‬‬ ‫وتضيف أ ّن األمر أشبه بالقيام بتعديالت‪ ،‬لكن‬ ‫عندما تكرث من التغيري‪ ،‬تبقى ال ُندُب واضحة‪".‬‬ ‫تعتمد املجموعة عىل ألوان األسود‬ ‫واألزرق الناصع والزهر الخفيف‪ .‬من العنارص‬ ‫املميّزة فيها‪ :‬ياقات عالية مصنوعة من خيطان‬ ‫طويلة‪ ،‬وأكامم وتنانري متّصلة بس ّحابات وباقات‬ ‫ورد تربط حول املعصم‪.‬‬ ‫ملع إسم ‪ Wim Bruynooghe‬كمص ّمم‬ ‫أزياء ورائد أعامل‪ُ .‬ولد يف ‪ Bruges‬سنة ‪1988‬‬ ‫وتخ ّرج يف األكادمييّة امللكيّة ث ّم ّأسس عالمة‬

SO UVEN I R

DISCO MOOD Belgium-based homeware brand Baobab Collection has launched a fun and colourful range of candles and diffusers for autumn/ winter 2017/18. The collection is inspired by disco culture and Studio 54, the famous former nightclub in New York. The line includes five candles and three diffusers produced in bright ombrĂŠ effect; the names of the candles include Donna (as in Summer), Diana (as in Ross) and others connected to the 1970s and 80s era of music. The fragrances are associated Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 59

with warm winter scents such as amber, cedar and leather. All the products of Baobab Collection are created with respect to the environment and a focus on highquality craftsmanship. The brand was founded in 2002, drawing inspiration from the scents and colours of the landscape of Tanzania. Today its seasonal collections continue to be based on striking places and themes. fm Baobab Collection candles, from â&#x201A;Ź79 each, Baobab Collection, 15 rue des Sablons, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 8064, baobabcollection.com