SHOP Belgium SS19

BELGIUM | 比利时 | БЕЛЬГИЯ |

‫بلجيكا‬

BELGIUM Country Edition Spring/Summer 2019

EXPLORE BELGIUM: discover the luxury highlights of this vibrant country with our insiders’ guide

CUTTING-EDGE CREATIONS the pioneering fashion o Belgium’s top designer

So amazing shopping So inno !

The biggest department store in Belgium.

More than 600 brands under one roof.

• Galeria Inno Antwerpen Meir 80-82 - 2000 Antwerpen • Galeria Inno Brugge Steenstraat 11 - 8000 Brugge • Galeria Inno Brussels rue Neuve 111 - 1000 Brussels • Galeria Inno Liège pl. de la République Française 15 - 4000 Liège • Galeria Inno Louise av. Louise 12 - 1050 Brussels • Galeria Inno Gent Veldstraat 86 - 9000 Gent

So many styles !

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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Barcelona Belgium Copenhagen Germany

‫أملانيا‬ 德国 Германия Helsinki Area Istanbul Italy Lebanon London

Welcome to Belgium

Madrid

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this appealing little country. Don’t miss our feature on Belgium’s pioneering fashion designers (page 24), enjoy our round-up of the key looks this season and much more.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 16% when shopping in Belgium. We publish guides to the most prestigious destinations across the globe. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Belgium. For the very latest information, scan the QR code on this page to head straight to our website, globalblue.com, and find everything you need to navigate the best shopping destinations on earth.

For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the SHOP TAX FREE app – calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.

Netherlands

Milan

Oslo Paris 巴黎 Portugal Prague Rome Stockholm Switzerland

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CONTRIBUTORS

REBECCA RHYS-EVANS SHOP’s associate fashion and lifestyle editor Rebecca RhysEvans has a degree in American literature from Liverpool University and formerly ran the online team at Flannels.com. She has previously written for British and international fashion brands. globalblue.com

SALLY MCILHONE As SHOP’s deputy editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally has contributed to Refinery29, Stylist and Total Film online.

ILLUSTRATION: ANDREW NYE

ANDREW NYE Andrew Nye has brought his striking conceptual style to this season’s cover of SHOP Belgium.

His illustration depicts a passenger entering beautiful and ornate Antwerp Central railway station, whose windows and archways sparkle like diamonds. Andrew’s other clients include Barclays and Eurostar.

Discover SHOP Belgium and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

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SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L

PUBLISHING

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Andrew Nye Production editor Katie Muxworthy Fashion editor Lucinda Turner Deputy fashion editor Fani Mari News editor Ginger Rose Clark Associate fashion and lifestyle editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Jo Walker Assistant picture editor Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Chris Bechtsudis Senior designer Aaron Carline Midweight designer Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese production editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Assistant Chinese online editors Ye Ye, Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Gary Ramazanov Russian communications assistant Elizaveta Kolesnikova Russian translator Teena Garnik Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb

G LO B A L B L U E B E LG I U M Managing director Benelux Jorn Hoogesteijn Key account manager and marketing Irene Schermer Customer relations Mila Kurum, Arpine Okmez Key account manager Jennifer de Vos Sales manager Benelux Kim Joostens Account manager Jan Keymis, Niels Leunens Global Blue Belgium, Excelsiorlaan 33, 1930 Zaventem Belgium

Print Dane Consultancy Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designers Peter Darkin, Joanna Orchard Midweight designer Kiranjeet Kaur Junior designer Tatjiana Antoniou Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production coordinator Inga Abramian Studio production assistants Chris Bigg, Joanna Dodge Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital data strategist Dian Liu Digital analyst intern Yunrong Kang Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Web developer Mohammed Hakiki Digital production assistant Linda Hau

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2019 Global Blue

And

so much more...

— www.tollet.com —

CONTENTS CHECK OUT 14 SHOP selects a standout piece from Belgium this season

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PRODUCTS 16 Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

SHOP WINDOW 20 Discover the new Messika boutique in Brussels in Belgium

NEWS 22 Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

FEATURE CUTTING-EDGE CREATIONS 24 The ground-breaking Antwerp Six group of designers made a huge impact in the 1980s, and their legacy lives on. Rebecca Rhys-Evans takes a look at Belgium’s fashion leaders of today, from Raf Simons to bag brand Kipling Above: a recent Clio Goldbrenner campaign

GUIDE 31 Maps and guides to Belgium’s top shops and destinations

HOW TO SHOP TAX FREE 47 The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS 48 中文 翻 译 50 Русский Перевод 56 SOUVENIR 58 The essential item to bring home

CONTRIBUTORS X X X XXX

XXXX English. 中国的 Chinese

русский язык Russian

ILLUSTRATION: XXXXXXX; PHOTO: XXXXXXX

Discover SHOP Xxxx and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

XXXX English.

XXXX English.

中国的 Chinese

中国的 Chinese

русский язык Russian

globalblue.com

русский язык Russian

CHECK OUT

PURE BRILLIANCE Launched in 1958 for the World Expo in Brussels, Delvaux’s Brillant bag has become the acclaimed signature piece of the historic Belgian brand. For spring/ summer 2019 this classic style has been given a modern facelift.

Inspired by travel, adventure and a bohemian spirit, the pictured pale pink design features a selection of beads and semi-precious stones in Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47

a bold, glistening pattern. Easily teamed with a casual or smart look, this innovative design from the 190-year-old brand is the perfect piece of Belgium to take anywhere in the world. lt Delvaux Brillant bag, price on request, Delvaux, 27 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 513 0502, delvaux.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 36

W O L F O R D B O U T I Q U E H ASS E LT Diesterstraat 6 | B R U SS E L Avenue Louise 40 | K N O K K E Kustlaan 241 B R U G G E Noordzandstraat 36 | G E N T Koestraat 19 | A N T W E R P E N Oudaan 15, Winkel 6 W O L F O R D O U T L E T M A AS M E C H E L E N V I L L AG E Zetellaan 113

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P E R F E C T LY A N G R Y / # T R U E CH A R A C T E R

16 | P R O D U C T S

Pandora bracelet, €79, Galeria Inno, Steenstraat 13, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 330603, pandora.net Max Mara sunglasses, €213, Max Mara, Noordzandstraat 74, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 341444, maxmara.com

Maje top, €175, Maje, Hopland 6, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 227 1977, maje.com

Team wide-leg blue trousers with a classic trench and add modern silver extras for a fresh spring look Sandro trousers, €185, Sandro, 28 rue Antoine Dansaert, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 8660, sandro-paris.com

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47

PHOTO: (TROUSERS) FRED FURGOL

NEW NAUTICAL

S H O P | 17

Cos earrings, €18, Cos, Korte Gasthuisstraat 16-18, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 400 3440, cosstores.com

Rolex watch, €41,150, Rolex Hall of Time, 55 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 5811, rolex.com

PHOTOS: (SHOES) OLIVIER MESNAGE; (WATCH) ROLEX

Boss coat, €645, Boss, Huidevettersstraat 45, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 233 6605, hugoboss.com

Longchamp shoes, €360, Longchamp, 5 avenue Louise, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 543 0260, longchamp.com

globalblue.com

Prada bag, €3,100, SN3, Frankrijklei 46, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 231 0820, prada.com

18 | P R O D U C T S

LOOK SHARP

Add a flash of colour to your sartorial style with a deep red suit

Cartier watch, from €6,000, Cartier, 54 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 537 5161, cartier.com

Zara blazer, €69.95, Zara, Huidevettersstraat 39, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 224 7290, zara.com

Burberry wallet, €250, Burberry, 16 boulevard de Waterloo, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 402 4400, burberry.com

Church’s shoes, €450, Church’s, 2 place Stéphanie, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 512 4430, church-footwear.com

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47

Zara trousers, €39.95, Zara, Huidevettersstraat 39, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 224 7290, zara.com

HIGH SHINE Messika recently opened its first boutique in Belgium, on place du Grand Sablon in Brussels. With its cream and grey interior, the new store reflects the jewellery label’s sophisticated identity.

The brand was founded in 2005

by Valérie Messika, daughter of a famous diamond merchant, who wanted to create beautiful Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47

jewellery that would showcase this most precious of stones.

Messika’s renowned collections include Glam’azone, Move and a collaboration with world-famous model Gigi Hadid. grc Messika, 20 place du Grand Sablon, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 669 8880, messika.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 32

PHOTO: AUDE MONIER

SHOP WINDOW

22 | N E W S

AQUA INSPIRATION In 2019 Belgian brand Filles Ă Papa celebrates its 10th anniversary. Over the past decade, it has come to be known for its young, rebellious designs. The spring/summer 2019 collection is defined by a pool vibe, with aquatic themed T-shirts, shimmering details, checkerboard towels and palm tree motifs. grc SN3, Frankrijklei 46, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 231 0820, fillesapapa.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 42

FIRST STEPS Scotch & Soda has added to its collections with the introduction of a new footwear line produced in collaboration with Hamm.

The inaugural range spans slides, trainers and boots for women, while men can choose from trainers, brogues and suede boots.

Tying in with the brand’s spring/ summer 2019 collection, the footwear marries the colour scheme and prints of the season. grc Scotch & Soda, Noordzandstraat 21, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)5 089 0911, scotch-soda.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 48

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47

ADVENTURE TIME Montblanc honours its Minerva watches of the 1920s and 30s with this year’s four 1858 timepieces (from €2,290), which were unveiled at Salon International de la Haute Horologie, or SIHH. Pairing a khaki green and bronze design with inhouse complications, the two Montblanc 1858 Automatics, the Chronograph and the Geosphere, all draw on a spirit of adventure, and are perfect for intrepid explorers with a sartorial penchant. grc

PERFECT PAIR Sicilian designer Fausto Puglisi has worked with Marina Rinaldi for a second consecutive season and the resulting Marina Rinaldi by Fausto Puglisi spring/ summer 2019 capsule collection consists of 16 pieces, spanning outerwear, dresses, tops, skirts and the new addition of trousers.

Besides using vibrant colours, globalblue.com

Montblanc, 11 avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 514 1438, montblanc.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 37

Puglisi designed an original print for the collection. Pumps and a belt round out the offering.

Marina Rinaldi’s ambassador, model Ashley Graham, is the face of this elegant range. grc Marina Rinaldi, 17 avenue Louise, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 539 2094, marinarinaldi.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 37

PHOTO: GORUNWAY.COM

CUTTING-EDGE CREATIONS

Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts is one of the most prestigious art schools in the world, as well as being one of the oldest such institutions in Europe (it was founded in 1663). Its fashion department shaped six of Belgium’s most influential designers. The Antwerp Six ‒ Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk van Saene, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee ‒ were all taught by the academy’s head of fashion, Linda Loppa. They variously graduated in 1980 and 81, and, after showing their collections at London Fashion Week in 1988, they had a radical impact on the fashion landscape.

The groundbreaking Antwerp Six group of designers made a huge impact in the 1980s, and their legacy lives on.

Rebecca Rhys-Evans profiles Belgium’s fashion leaders of today, from Raf Simons to renowned bag brand Kipling Milan, Paris and London are so dominant in European fashion that we sometimes overlook Belgium’s longstanding relationship with the world of style. Yet over the years, the country has produced some of the most pioneering legends of fashion.

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Their vision, both as a group and individually, transformed Belgium’s reputation for fashion and creativity. Their collections were challenging and gamechanging, shifting tastes and introducing a new avant-garde aesthetic. They subsequently started eponymous labels, perhaps most notably Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, and Walter Van Beirendonck also styled costumes, famously for U2.

Now variously working around the world, the Antwerp Six left their mark on Belgium’s creative scene and paved the way for other designers and brands. Aspiring artists and creatives from Belgium and beyond have flocked to Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Notable alumni of the academy include Martin Margiela, Demna Gvasalia and Haider Ackermann. In addition, self-trained fashion designer Raf Simons received much encouragement from Linda Loppa.

Martin Margiela attended the academy just before the Antwerp Six, and he is often considered an honorary seventh member of the group. On graduating, the designer worked freelance for a number of years, including a stint with Jean Paul Gaultier, before launching his eponymous label in 1988. Margiela has always kept a low profile, never Previous: Dries Van Noten spring/summer 2019

Above: Maison Margiela spring/summer 2019

PHOTO: GORUNWAY.COM

Since the 1980s, Belgian fashion has established itself as rule-breaking

PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT) FRIEDRICH TELLBERG CC0 CREATIVE COMMONS; (TOP RIGHT) GORUNWAY.COM; (BOTTOM) DAN & CORINA LECCA

S H O P | 27

being interviewed or photographed and remaining all but invisible despite his huge influence. The mystery man of fashion was creative director of Hermès between 1997 and 2003. Today his own brand, now known as Maison Margiela, is led by John Galliano, who was appointed creative director in 2014.

Raf Simons started his career as a furniture designer but, encouraged by Linda Loppa, became a self-trained menswear designer. He has been creative director for minimalist womenswear brand Jil Sander, a position he also held at Christian Dior and Calvin Klein. His eponymous menswear brand was founded in 1995, and in 2005 Raf

by Raf Simons was introduced as a diffusion line with a similar aesthetic and lower price point.

Above (clockwise from top left): the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp; Raf Simons; Walter Van Beirendonck, both spring/summer 2019

The designer has enjoyed many collaborations and in recent years these have pushed him to the forefront of contemporary streetwear fashion; notable examples include collections with Adidas, Fred Perry, Eastpak and Asics, and also with Danish homeware design brand Kvadrat.

Known for his fluid capabilities,

from couture at Dior to streetwear with Adidas, Raf Simons offers inspirational contemporary European fashion design, and he has been a major influence on Kanye West’s music and fashion line Yeezy.

Today some of the Antwerp Six live outside Belgium, but the effect of the group and the concepts they introduced live on in the country.

Their legacy is not only embraced by individual designers – many luxury and high-street brands have also been strongly influenced by them and have accomplished much in recent years.

Accessories design is on the up, and eyewear and watch brand Komono has been much acclaimed for its sleek, simple and functional timepieces as well as its optical frames and sunglasses range marketed at affordable prices.

Above (from top): Dries Van Noten spring/summer 2019; a Komono Winston Royale watch

PHOTO: (TOP) GORUNWAY.COM

28 | F E AT U R E

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) GORUNWAY.COM

S H O P | 29

There has been a rise in bag brands, too; in this era of affordable luxury accessories Marvais, Ms Bay and Clio Goldbrenner bridge the gap between high street and high fashion and offer achievable prices.

If we’re talking Belgian bags, it would be a crime not to mention Kipling, the high street hero that specialises in luggage, backpacks and other carriers. A go-to brand around the world, Kipling is known for the lightweight, colourful nylon fabric used in its many travel items.

It, too, was founded in Antwerp in the 1980s, adding to a golden era of design for the city.

Since the 1980s, Belgian fashion has established itself as rulebreaking. Looking to the future and enjoying avant-garde creations, whether from commercial brands or graduates of Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, it champions design that transcends seasonal trends. Drawing inspiration from youth culture, music and technology, Belgian fashion designers often achieve cult status.

From highlights such as Dries Van Noten’s prints, Margiela’s trench coat and Raf Simons’ utilitarian menswear, it’s clear that Belgium’s fashion designers set trends, rather than follow them Above (clockwise from top left): a recent Clio Goldbrenner campaign; Kipling; Ann Demeulemeester, both spring/summer 2019

E.R.: Johan Soenens, Jean Monnetlaan 1, 1804 Vilvoorde. www.c-a.com

Find your nearest store on c-a.com

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Belgium with a look at the country’s must-visit destinations, from a cool haven of modern art to the old town of Dinant on the River Meuse (pictured). Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/belgium.

PHOTO: JIUGUANG WANG CC 0 CREATIVE COMMONS

BELGIUM GUIDE

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DELBÔVE Passionate about science and botany, Belgian skincare brand Delbôve started in 1967. It takes a holistic approach to cosmetics, emphasising that beauty comes from feeling good ‒ and from a natural beauty regime. The brand’s two stores, in Antwerp and Brussels, have minimalist interiors that feature wood and gold hardware details. They are as carefully styled as the labels of the brown bottles that each product comes in, and they are havens for any beauty fanatic. Our recommendation is to try the Crème Sorcière, a balancing cream and cleanser that the brand is known for.

Delbôve, 67 rue de l’Abbaye, 1050 Brussels, +32 (0)2 648 0449, delbove.com

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seasonal organic dishes, from Moroccan salad and Viking pizza Wiels is a foremost institution for (made with salmon and leeks) modern art, and exhibits exciting to sandwiches and soups, while work from leading and lesserdesserts include tarte tatin and known contemporary artists from cheesecake. around the world. It is strikingly Kamilou at Wiels, set in a huge, former brewing 354 avenue Van Volxem, hall. Within this enormous 1190 Forest, gallery, Kamilou café is a must+32 (0)2 894 4667, visit. Its tempting menu offers kamilou.be Global Blue Retailer

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S H O P | 37

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38 | B E LG I U M G U I D E

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PAGE 40 52

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GODEFRIDUSK A AI

ST R A AT

S H O P | 39

BERNADETTE Luxury fashion brand Bernadette is making waves among the style elite. It was started by mother and daughter duo Bernadette and Charlotte De Geyter, and its signature piece is an ultra-feminine floral print midi dress inspired by boudoir dressing. Femininity is key to this brand; its clothes are designed by women for women, and each style can be worn by women of all ages.

Renaissance, Nationalestraat 32, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 369 0108, bernadetteantwerp.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 40

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) ANAĂ? S DYCKMANS

APC APC combines classic Parisian laid-back style and high-quality fabrics to present cool yet casual favourites. Giving your everyday wardrobe the overhaul you didn’t realise it needed, the brand offers cuts and structure often found in Japanese and Scandinavian fashion, and its streetwear style is redolent of

globalblue.com

Berlin, New York and London.

It delivers some of the mostwanted leather accessories, graphic T-shirts, denim and trainers on the international fashion landscape.

APC, Lombardenvest 12B, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 226 5054, apc.fr FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 40

40 | B E LG I U M G U I D E

ES

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● HONEST BY

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FLORIS VAN BOMMEL ●

PETIT BATEAU ● CAROLINE BISS ● BANANA MOON ● MICHAEL KORS ● NATAN ● TENSEN ● FRED PERRY ● STATE OF ART ●

HOGAN ● IITTALA ● NICO TAEYMANS ● FALKE ● SUPERTRASH ● STATE OF ART ● DELBÔVE ●

● NEUHAUS

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● FITTZ ● LEVI’S ● ADIDAS ● ANN ZELIEN ● VANS ESSENTIEL OUTLET ● ● RINGS & THINGZ VIER ● TIMBERLAND ● PEPE JEANS ●

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BITTE KAI RAND ● HADHI ● LC FOOTWEAR ●

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Featured In This Issue

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RUBENS HUIS

MORGAN ●

NESPRESSO ● VERO MODA / JACK & JONES ● CELIO ● ICI PARIS XL ● FOOT LOCKER ● DODE ZEE COSMETICS ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● H&M ● I AM ● RITUALS ● KO LV E N I E R S S T R A AT LEVI'S ● COSTES WOMEN ● WEST-END ●

PULL & BEAR ●

UNIQLO ● HEMA ● DESIGUAL ● STREET ONE ●

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BERSHKA ●

Peek & Cloppenburg

BRISTOL ● JUTTU ●

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● PRIMAR K ● DIESEL ● IÜ ● CLARKS ● JBC ● TORFS

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Place Of Interest

Shopping Centre/Mall

Department Store

Cos Ice Watch Men At Work Sacha Tommy Hilfiger

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Galeria Inno, Meir 80-82, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 232 1950, inno.be Galeria Inno is the only department store in Belgium, and it is the go-to hub for the latest fashion; here you’ll find everything from Bulgari to Balmain. Galeria Inno stocks more than 600 brands, and in the Antwerp store you’ll find homeware, accessories, beauty and stationery, quite apart from fashion. Always striving to be ahead of the curve, the store aims to be all-encompassing in its services, from free Wi-Fi to watch repairs and a restaurant, the Lunch Garden, that’s perfect for a break from shopping.

KI

S H O P | 41

GALERIA INNO

Meir & Hopland

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ILAN DIAMONDS ● RIKI DIAMONDS ● EDEN ● RON ● DIAMOND CREATIONS ● ORDINI ● BELLA ● JULIA DIAMONDS ● MALDINI DIAMONDS ● MODANI DIAMOND CREATIONS ● DIAMAND PALACE ●

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42 | B E LG I U M G U I D E

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GALLERY EMPIRE: ● DAYEKH JEWELLERY

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 43

BRUGES

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OLD ST. JOHN'S HOSPITAL

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Pergola Kaffee

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The Gulliver Tree, Cordoeaniersstraat 4, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 731516, thegullivertree.be

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© Maasmechelen Village 2019

02/19

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SWATCH Since its inception, Swatch has championed the innovative use of materials, and its spring/summer 2019 collection perfectly illustrates this cutting-edge spirit. The new range is called Transformation (with pieces from €60) and it plays with optical illusions and special effects; timepieces are made with polarised glass which produces an iridescent look in the light.

Galeria Inno, Steenstraat 13, 8000 Bruges, +32 (0)50 330603, swatch.com

Steenstraat & Noordzandstraat CINQUE ● DOMIQUE MEIR ●

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Featured In This Issue

PHOTOS: SWATCH LTD.

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TRANSLATIONS

中文翻译

24: CUTTING-EDGE CREATIONS 先锋创造

米 兰、巴 黎和 伦敦一直占 据 欧 洲 时尚 主导 地位，导 致有 时候 我们 忽视了比 利时与时装界 的历史渊源。实际 上 这 些 年来，比 利时产生了一 批 时尚界最 具传 奇 色 彩 的先 锋人物。 创立于 1663年 的安 特卫普皇 家 艺 术 学 院 是世界上 最有名望 的 艺 术 院 校 之一，也是 欧 洲 历史 最 悠久 的 艺 术 机 构 之一。安 特卫普皇 家 艺 术 学 院 的时装设 计 专业 培 养了比 利时最具 影 响力的 六位设 计师，人 称 “安 特卫 普六君子”：Dries Van Noten，Ann

上图: Dries Van Noten 2019春夏

Demeulemeester，Dirk van Saene，Walter Van Beirendonck，Dirk Bikkembergs 以 及 Marina Yee。他们 都出自时 装设 计系 主任 Linda Loppa门下。 六君子 先 后在 1980年 和 1981年 毕 业，1988年 他们 一 行人 来 到伦敦 时 装 周共同展 示作品，一 炮而红，之 后 便 开始了各自在 时尚界风 风 火火 的 驰 骋之 路。 无 论 是 作为 一 个团体还 是 个人， 六君子 的时尚 理 念 彻底 改变了比 利 时 在 时尚 创意界 的声 望。他们 的作 品 极具挑 战 力 和 颠 覆 性，在 转 变品 味 的同时引进 全 新 的 前卫审 美 观 点。 六君子 随 后各自开 创同名品牌，其中 最 知名的要 数 Dries Van Noten 和 Ann Demeulemeester。Walter Van Beirendonck同时也设 计 演出服 装， 最 著名的客户是 U2乐队。 六君子目前 在世界 各地 发 展自 己的事业，但他们 仍然是 比 利时创

PHOTO: GORUNWAY.COM

20世 纪80年 代，“安 特卫普六 君子”以划时代的设 计 新 理 念 撼 动了时尚界，其影响延 续至 今。Rebecca Rhys-Evans在 本文 中介绍了当下比 利时 潮牌，包 括Raf Simons和 著名箱包品 牌 Kipling等

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意 设 计 领 域 不 可忽视 的力量，为其 他同胞设 计师 和品牌 铺 路。比 利时 本土 和 世界 各地 的 创意 才俊 纷 纷涌 向安 特卫普皇 家 艺 术 学 院。Martin Margiela, Demna Gvasalia 和 Haider Ackermann都 是该学 院有 名的 校 友。自学成 才 的 设 计师 Raf Simons也受 到 Linda Loppa的诸 多 指导。 Martin Margiela是 六君子 的 师兄，他 通常 被 外界认 为 是 六君子 组合 的荣 誉成 员。毕业 后，Martin 先 是 做了几 年自由设 计师，为 Jean Paul Gaultier工作过一段 时间, 后在 1988年创立了自己的同名品牌。尽管 Martin对 时装界影 响巨大，却 一直 保 持 低 调，从 未 接 受 采访、拍照 或任 何形式 的 曝光。这位 神 秘 时尚 设 计师 是 爱马 仕（ Hermès）1997年到 2003 年间的 创意 总监。Martin的自有品 牌 Maison Margiela自 2014年起由 John Galliano出任 创意 总监。 Raf Simons最初 是 一名家具设 计师，在 Linda Loppa的 鼓 励下，自 学成 为男装设 计师。他是极简主义 女 装品牌 Jil Sander的 创意 总监，并在 Christian Dior 和 Calvin Klein担任 过同样 职 位。1995年，Raf Simons 创立了同名男装品牌，2005年又创立 副 线 Raf by Raf Simons，延 续 主 线 的美学理 念但价 格更实惠。 Raf Simons与很多设 计师 合 作 过，是 近 几 年 街头潮 流 风青 睐 有 加的 设 计师，跟 Adidas、 Fred Perry、Eastpak 和 Asics以 及 丹 麦 家居品牌 Kvadrat都 合作 过联名系 列。Raf Simons的风 格 多 变 灵活，无 论 是 Dior这等 高级 定制还 是 Adidas 街头 装，他 都 驾 驭自如，是 当代 欧 洲 时尚 设 计 的灵魂导师，Kanye West 的音乐 和潮 线 Yeezy就 受 到 Raf Simons的莫大 影 响。 目前，安 特卫普六君子虽 并不都 在 比 利时生活，但他们 的 影 响 和 理 念

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在 比 利时继 续 发 扬 光大。不论 是 独 立 设 计师，还 是 奢 侈品牌 和高街品牌， 都 深 受他们 的启发 和 影 响 并在 近 几 年大 获 成 功。 配饰 设 计日益 重要，Komono 因简约 流畅而又实用的手表、眼 镜 框 和太阳眼 镜 产品而大 获 好评， 而且价 格亲民。比 利时 的箱包品 牌 也日益流行，在 这个 轻 奢 配饰 时代，Marvais、Ms Bay 和 Clio Goldbrenner在高街 和高级 时尚 之 间 架 起了一座 桥，让 大 众 都负 担得 起。说 到比 利时 的 包，不 得不 提专注 于旅行 箱、双 肩包 和其它包包 款 式 的 Kipling。Kipling以轻巧、彩色 尼 龙 材质 的 旅行用品而成 为风 靡 全 球 的同类 产品的 首选 品牌。它的家乡 也是 安 特卫普，创立于 20世 纪 80年 代，是 这个 城 市 的 黄金 设 计 年 代 的 代 表 之一。 自 20世 纪 80年 代 起，比 利时 时尚 就 一直 颠 覆 既 有 的传 统 规 则。无 论 是 比 利时商业时装品牌还 是 安 特卫 普皇 家 艺 术 学 院 的毕业 生，他们 怀 揣 着的面向未 来的先 锋 创意，让 比 利时 的时尚 超 越 季度 流行。从青 年 文化、

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音乐 和 科 技中 汲取 灵 感，比 利时 时尚 设 计师 常 被 追 随者 封 神。Dries Van Noten的印 花、 Margiela的风 衣 和 Raf Simons的实用主义男装，这 些 大师 之作 证明了一点：比 利时 的时装 设 计师 引领 风尚，不追 随潮 流。

47: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购 物区中的 30多 万家商店消费时，环 球 蓝 联 购 物 退 税 服 务（ Global Blue Tax Free Shopping）为 您 节省购 物 开 销。 每 年大 约有两千六百多万名游 客 享用 环 球 蓝 联（ Global Blue）的购 物 退 税 服 务，何不加入他们 的 行列？您只 需 在 购 物 时留意 环 球 蓝 联（ Global Blue）的蓝 星标 志，或 直 接问询商家 是 否 提 供环 球 蓝 联（ Global Blue） 退 税 服 务，然 后 遵 循以下简单 的退 税 流 程即 可：

1. 购 物 消费 无 论 您 在 哪里 购 物，请向商家索要 环 球 蓝 联 退 税 表格（ Global Blue Tax Free Form），并 保存 好购 物 票 据。

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД

24: CUTTING-EDGE CREATIONS БЕЛЬГИЙСКИЕ ГЕНИИ Антверпенская шестерка дизайнеров совершила прорыв в моде 1980‑х, и их идеи живут и сейчас. Ребекка РизЭванс рассказывает о современных стильных лидерах из Бельгии от Рафа Симонса до бренда сумок Kipling Милан, Париж и Лондон захватили европейскую моду настолько, что иногда мы просто не замечаем значительный вклад Бельгии в современный стиль. Однако в последние годы именно эта страна породила сразу несколько важных модных явлений. Королевская академия изящных искусств в Антверпене – одна из самых престижных художественных школ в мире, а заодно и один из самых старых вузов в Европе (она была основана в 1663 году). Факультету моды

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славу принесли шесть самых влиятельных бельгийских дизайнеров, объединившихся в Антверпенскую шестерку. Дрис Ван Нотен, Анн Демельмейстер, Дирк ван Сэн, Вальтер Ван Берендонк, Дирк Биккимбергс и Марина Йи учились у главы модного направления Линды Лоппа и окончили академию в 1980-1981 годах. А после презентации своих коллекций на Лондонской неделе моды в 1988 году они сумели изменить

весь модный ландшафт. Их подход к моде – и как команды, и каждого по отдельности – создал и укрепил репутацию Бельгии в этой сфере. Их коллекции стали вызовом, открывающим авангардную эстетику, меняющим вкусы и правила игры. Впоследствии, каждый из них основал бренд под собственным именем: пожалуй, Dries Van Noten и Ann Demeulemeester стали

Сверху: последняя рекламная кампания Clio Goldbrenner

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самыми успешными. А Walter Van Beirendonck разрабатывал не только коллекции, но и сценические костюмы, например, для U2. Сейчас дизайнеры из Антверпенской шестерки работают в разных точках земного шара, но они оставили неизгладимый след в креативной среде Бельгии и проложили дорогу для новых талантов. Амбициозные художники со всей Бельгии и из других стран стремятся учиться в Антверпенской академии. Среди ее выпускников – Мартин Маржела, Демна Гвасалия и Хайдер Акерман. А дизайнерсамоучка Раф Симонс получил благословение лично от Линды Лоппа. Мартин Маржела учился в Академии чуть раньше Антверпенской шестерки, поэтому его часто называют почетным седьмым участником группы. По окончании он несколько лет работал как фрилансер, в том числе на Жана-Поля Готье, а в 1988 году открыл бренд под своим именем. Маржела никогда не показывается на публике, не дает интервью и не фотографируется. Но его огромное влияние на моду просто невозможно игнорировать. Этот человекзагадка был креативным директором Hermès с 1997 по 2003 годы. А его собственный бренд, который сейчас называется Maison Margiela, globalblue.ru

возглавляет Джон Гальяно, назначенный креативным директором в 2014 году. Раф Симонс начал свою карьеру с дизайна мебели, но Линда Лоппа убедила его переключиться на мужскую одежду. Он был креативным директором минималистского бренда женской одежды Jil Sander, затем занимал аналогичную же позицию в Christian Dior и Calvin Klein. В 1995 году он открыл бренд мужской одежды под своим именем, а в 2005 году представил диффузную линию Raf by Raf Simons со схожей эстетикой, но более доступную по цене. Симонс постоянно сотрудничает с другими брендами, и в последние годы это привело его в авангард уличной моды. Среди примечательных примеров – коллекции для Adidas, Fred Perry, Eastpak и Asics, а также датского бренда домашнего декора Kvadrat. Кроме того, его стиль повлиял на музыку и модную линию Канье Уэста Yeezy. Разносторонний талант дизайнера позволяет ему создавать и кутюр в Dior, и стритстайл в Adidas – и вдохновлять современную европейскую моду. Сегодня некоторые участники Антверпенской шестерки живут за пределами Бельгии, но их идеи продолжают влиять на моду страны. Их наследие не только развивают самостоятельные дизайнеры, но

53

PHOTO: GORUNWAY.COM

и активно используют бренды разных сегментов, которые многого добились в последние годы. Когда дизайн аксессуаров оказался на подъеме, бренд Komono сумел громко заявить о себе благодаря лаконичным

Сверху: Ann Demeulemeester весна-лето 2019

и функциональным часам и оправам очков, в том числе солнцезащитных, по доступным ценам. Взлет ощущают и бренды сумок: в эпоху доступной роскоши аксессуары Marvais, Ms Bay и Clio Goldbrenner заполнили нишу между

54

экономичным сегментом и высокой модой, предлагая вещи по разумным ценам. В разговоре о бельгийских сумках будет преступлением не упомянуть Kipling – лидера доступных аксессуаров, который специализируется на чемоданах, рюкзаках и других сумках для путешествий. Его коллекции, востребованные во всем мире, несложно узнать по легкому, прочному и яркому нейлону.

Kipling тоже был основан в Антверпене в 1980-е и внес свой вклад в золотую эру дизайна в этом городе. С 1980-х бельгийская мода

постоянно ставит под сомнение границы допустимого. И выпускники Королевской академии, и бренды здесь уверенно смотрят в будущее и создают дизайн, который предвосхищает сезонные тренды. Черпая вдохновение из молодежной культуры, музыки и технологий, бельгийские дизайнеры порой приобретают статус культовых. Принты Дриса Ван Нотена, тренчи Маржелы и практичная мужская одежда Рафа Симонса – все это убеждает в том, что эти дизайнеры диктуют тренды, а не следуют им.

47: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С TAX FREE Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.

globalblue.ru

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €50 и сэкономьте до 16% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

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‫كبري عىل موسيقى ‪ Kanye West‬وخ ّط األزياء‬ ‫الخاص به ‪.Yeezy‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اليوم‪ ،‬يعيش بعض أفراد ‪Antwerp‬‬ ‫‪ Six‬خارج بلجيكا‪ ،‬لكن ما زال تأثري املجموعة‬ ‫ومفاهيمها قامئة يف البالد‪ .‬مل يعتنق إرث َها‬ ‫مص ّممون متعدّدون فحسب‪ ،‬بل تأث ّرت به أيضاً‬ ‫عدّة عالمات تجاريّة فاخرة وعاديّة وحقّقت‬ ‫الكثري يف السنوات األخرية‪.‬‬ ‫مع ازدهار مجال تصميم األكسسوارات‪،‬‬ ‫املختصة‬ ‫زاد الطلب عىل عالمة ‪Komono‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بالنظارات والساعات وذلك لساعاتها البسيطة‬ ‫العمليّة وأطر نظاراتها ونظاراتها املعقولة‬ ‫املختصة بالحقائب‬ ‫السعر‪ .‬كام لحظت العالمات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫من ّوا ً واضحاً؛ ففي زمن الفخامة املتاحة للجميع‪،‬‬ ‫سدّت عالمات األكسسوارات ‪Marvais‬‬ ‫و‪ Ms Bay‬و‪ Clio Goldbrenner‬الثغرة‬ ‫بني التصاميم الفاخرة والعاديّة وذلك بأسعار‬ ‫معقولة‪ .‬وبالحديث عن الحقائب البلجيك ّية‪ ،‬ال‬ ‫ب ّد من ذكر ‪ ،Kipling‬العالمة الجبّارة الفاخرة‬ ‫املختصة باألمتعة وحقائب الظهر وغريها من‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الشنط‪ .‬ذاع صيتها حول العامل وتشتهر بخفّة‬ ‫وزنها وبقامشها املل ّون املستخدم يف عدّة لوازم‬ ‫تأسست‬ ‫للسفر‪ .‬وهي أيضاً من العالمات التي ّ‬ ‫يف ‪ Antwerp‬يف الثامنينات وأغنت هذه‬ ‫الحقبة الذهبيّة من التصميم يف املدينة‪.‬‬ ‫منذ الثامنينات‪ُ ،‬عرف مجال تصميم األزياء‬ ‫يف بلجيكا بكرس القواعد‪ .‬من خالل نظرته‬ ‫املستقبليّة وابتكاراته الخالقة‪ ،‬إن كان من خالل‬ ‫عالمات تجاريّة أو عرب خريجي ‪Antwerp’s‬‬ ‫‪ ،Royal Academy of Fine Arts‬متيّز‬ ‫بتصاميم تتخطّى موضة املوسم بأشواط‪.‬‬ ‫يستوحي مص ّممو األزياء البلجيكيّون من ثقافة‬ ‫الشباب واملوسيقى والتكنولوجيا وغالباً ما‬ ‫خاصة بهم‪ .‬نظرا ً البتكارات‬ ‫يخلقون أساليب ّ‬

‫استثنائيّة عىل سبيل نقوش ‪Dries Van‬‬ ‫‪ Noten‬ومعطف ‪ Margiela‬املقاوم للامء‬ ‫ومالبس ‪ Raf Simons‬الرجاليّة العمليّة‪ ،‬من‬ ‫الواضح أ ّن مص ّممي األزياء يف بلجيكا يصنعون‬ ‫املوضة بدالً من تت ّبعها‪.‬‬

‫‪WHEN YOU SHOP‬‬ ‫‪THE WORLD, SHOP‬‬ ‫‪TAX FREE: 47‬‬ ‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل‪،‬‬ ‫تس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة‬ ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة‬ ‫التس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر‬ ‫املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكرث من ‪ 300,000‬متجر يف‬ ‫أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العامل‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ال تنض ّم إىل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين‬ ‫يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الرضيبة من خالل غلوبل‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك إال أن‬ ‫بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫أينام تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عىل طلب اس’داد‬ ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو ‪Global Blue‬‬ ‫الرضيبة ّ‬ ‫وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصاالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫يف طريق العودة إىل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجامرك‬ ‫عند نقطة املغادرة لتتم املصادقة عىل إيصاالتك‬ ‫قبل قبض االس’داد من أحد مكاتب االس’داد‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لالتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدىن قدره ‪ €50‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 16%‬من‬

‫مثن مش’ياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ االس’داد النهايئ الذي‬ ‫ستحصل عليه مجموع الرضيبة عىل القيمة املضافة‬ ‫ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬يف بعض املطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض رسم‬ ‫خدمة نقدي عىل كل طلب اس’داد رضيبة يف حال‬ ‫رغبت بالحصول عىل اس’داد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫يف األعىل‪ :‬حقيبة ‪Kipling‬‬

‫‪56‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة‬ ‫العرب ّية‬

‫‪CUTTING-EDGE : 24‬‬ ‫‪CREATIONS‬‬ ‫ابتكارات خالقة‬ ‫كان ملجموعة املص ّممني املبدعة ‪Antwerp‬‬ ‫‪ Six‬أث ٌر كبري يف الثامنينات وما زال إرثها ح ّياً‬ ‫حتّى اآلن‪ .‬تسلّط ‪Rebecca Rhys-Evans‬‬ ‫الضوء عىل ر ّواد املوضة يف بلجيكا اليوم‪ ،‬من‬ ‫‪ Raf Simons‬إىل عالمة الحقائب الشهرية‬ ‫‪Kipling‬‬

‫تسيطر ميالنو وباريس ولندن عىل املوضة‬ ‫األوروب ّية لدرج ٍة ننىس فيها عالقة بلجيكا‬ ‫العريقة بعامل األناقة‪ .‬لكن الواقع أنّها صنعت‬ ‫عرب السنوات بعض أبرز أساطري املوضة‪.‬‬ ‫‪Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine‬‬ ‫‪ Arts‬هي من أرقى كليّات الفنون يف العامل‬ ‫(تأسست سنة ‪ .)1663‬صقل‬ ‫وأقدمها يف أوروبا ّ‬ ‫قسم األزياء فيها موهبة ستّة من أبرز املص ّممني‬ ‫يف بلجيكا وهم أعضاء مجموعة ‪Antwerp‬‬ ‫‪ .Six‬وقد علّمتهم رئيسة القسم ‪Linda‬‬ ‫‪ Loppa‬بنفسها وهم ‪Dries Van Noten :‬‬ ‫و‪ Ann Demeulemeester‬و‪Dirk van‬‬ ‫‪ Saene‬و‪Walter Van Beirendonck‬‬ ‫و‪ Dirk Bikkembergs‬و‪.Marina Yee‬‬ ‫تخ ّرجوا بني سنتي ‪ 1980‬و‪ 1981‬وكان لهم‬ ‫تأثري كبري عىل عامل األزياء بعد أن عرضوا‬ ‫مجموعاتهم يف أسبوع لندن للموضة سنة‬ ‫‪.1988‬‬ ‫تغريت‬ ‫بفضل رؤيتهم كمجموعة وأفراد‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫شُ هرة بلجيكا باألزياء واالبتكار‪ .‬رفعت‬ ‫وغريت قواعد اللّعبة‬ ‫مجموعاتهم املعايري ّ‬ ‫فبدّلت األذواق وقدّمت أسلوباً جديدا ً مل يسبق‬ ‫كل واحد منهم يطلق عالمته‬ ‫له مثيل‪ .‬وراح ّ‬ ‫وربا أشهرهم ‪Dries Van‬‬ ‫التي تحمل إسمه ّ‬ ‫‪ Noten‬و‪ Ann Demeulemeester‬كام‬ ‫ص ّمم ‪ Walter Van Beirendockalso‬أزياء‬ ‫لبعض الفرق وأشهرها ‪.U2‬‬ ‫يعمل أعضاء ‪ Antwerp Six‬اليوم يف‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫بقا ِع مختلفة حول العامل وقد تركوا بصمتهم‬ ‫يف املجال االبتكاري يف بلجيكا وم ّهدوا الطريق‬ ‫لغريهم من املص ّممني والعالمات التجاريّة‪.‬‬ ‫نتيج ًة لذلك أرتاد كليّة ‪Antwerp’s Royal‬‬ ‫‪ Academy of Fine Arts‬ف ّنانون ومبدعون‬ ‫من داخل بلجيكا وخارجها‪ .‬من أبرز خ ّريجيها‬ ‫‪ Martin Margiela‬و‪Demna Gvasalia‬‬ ‫و‪ .Haider Ackermann‬كام تلقّى املص ّمم‬ ‫العصامي ‪ Raf Simons‬التشجيع الكبري من‬ ‫‪.Linda Loppa‬‬ ‫تجدر اإلشارة إىل أ ّن ‪Martin Margiela‬‬ ‫تلقّى دروسه يف الكليّة قبل مجموعة‬ ‫‪ Antwerp Six‬وغالباً ما يُعترب العضو الفخري‬ ‫السابع فيها‪ .‬لدى تخ ّرجه‪ ،‬عمل لحسابه الخاص‬ ‫لبضع سنوات‪ ،‬با فيها فرتة لدى ‪Jean Paul‬‬ ‫‪ ،Gaultier‬قبل أن يطلق عالمته التي تحمل‬ ‫إسمه سنة ‪ .1988‬حرص ‪ Margiela‬عىل أن‬ ‫يظل بعيدا ً عن األضواء‪ ،‬فلم ِ‬ ‫يعط أي حديث أو‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫صورة لوسائل اإلعالم وبَ ِق َي متخفّياً بالرغم من‬ ‫نجاحاته الكربى‪ .‬وشغل رجل األزياء الغامض‬ ‫هذا‪ ،‬منصب مدير االبتكار لدى دار ‪Hermès‬‬ ‫بني عامي ‪ 1997‬و‪ .2003‬واليوم‪ ،‬تُعرف‬ ‫العالمة باسم ‪ ،Maison Margiela‬يرتأّسها‬ ‫‪ John n Galliano‬الذي ُع ّني مديرا ً ابتكاريّاً‬ ‫سنة ‪.2014‬‬ ‫أ ّما ‪ ،Raf Simons‬فبدأ مسريته كمص ّمم‬ ‫أثاث‪ ،‬لكن بتشجيع من ‪ ،Linda Loppa‬بات‬ ‫مص ّمم مالبس رجال ّية بجهد شخيص‪ .‬إنّه املدير‬ ‫املختصة باملالبس‬ ‫االبتكاري لعالمة ‪Jil Sander‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫النسائيّة البسيطة وقد شغل املنصب نفسه لدى‬ ‫‪ Chritian Dior‬و‪ّ .Calvin Klein‬أسس‬ ‫واملختصة باملالبس‬ ‫عالمته التي تحمل إسمه‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الرجاليّة سنة ‪ 1995‬ويف العام ‪ ،2005‬ت ّم‬ ‫إطالق ‪ Raf by Raf Simons‬كخ ّط ثانوي‬ ‫أقل‪.‬‬ ‫يتمتّع باألسلوب نفسه لكن بأسعار ّ‬ ‫تعاون املص ّمم مع أسامء عدّة‪ ،‬وصل‬ ‫بفضلها مؤخرا ً إىل واجهة أزياء الشارع‬ ‫الع’يّة؛ من أبرزها ‪ Adidas‬و‪Fred‬‬ ‫‪ Perry‬و‪ Eastpak‬و‪ Asics‬باإلضافة إىل‬ ‫املختصة باألغراض املنزل ّية‬ ‫العالمة الدمنارك ّية‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ .Kvadrat‬يُعرف ‪ Raf Simons‬بقدرته عىل‬ ‫التغيري؛ انتقل من األزياء الراقية لدى ‪Dior‬‬ ‫إىل مالبس الشارع مع ‪ ،Adidas‬يقدّم تصاميم‬ ‫أزياء أوروبيّة ع’يّة ملهمة وقد كان له تأثري‬

MENTION

‘HOTEL PARFUMA’ AND RECEIVE

A SPECIAL SOUVENIR PARFUMA.COM

With international brands such as Tom Ford and Jo Malone London we offer you an exclusive range of beauty products, unique in Antwerp. Visit Parfuma at Eiermarkt 31, next to the Groenplaats in the city center.

ACQUA DI PARMA | BY KILLIAN | ARMANI BEAUTY | ARMANI PRIVÉ | BOBBI BROWN | BYREDO | ENVIRON | FREDERIC MALLE | JANE IREDALE | JO MALONE LONDON | JULIETTE HAS A GUN | LA MER | NARS | MONTALE | MOLTON BROWN | ORIGINS | SERGE LUTENS | TOM FORD BEAUTY | COMFORT ZONE

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SOUVENIR

COLLECTIVE THINKING Inspired by the surrealists, this season Belgian jewellery brand Wouters & Hendrix decided to rip up every design convention in the book and start again. The brand is using a technique called cadavre exquis (or exquisite corpse) which was coined by surrealist authors; one writer would write a word, pass it along to another writer and then another, ending up with an unexpected tale. Echoing this, the Wouters & Hendrix jewellers designed pieces collectively, each taking responsibility for a Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 47

different element. The result for the spring/summer 2019 collection is pieces of jewellery that defy convention and are bound to make a statement wherever they are worn. The pictured earrings feature freshwater pearls and semi-precious stones set in gold, making them a perfectly modern addition to any ensemble. lt Wouters & Hendrix earrings, â‚Ź475, Wouters & Hendrix, Steenhouwersvest 52, 2000 Antwerp, +32 (0)3 231 6242, wouters-hendrix.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 40

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