BERLIN | БЕРЛИН | 柏林 |
BERLIN Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Page 50 BAGS FOR LIFE: discover Berlin’s leading leather brands
If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name
customers express when they purchase
“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost
jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of
expertise in the art of making jewellery
jewellery uphold international standards
and timepieces. We offer a unique
and are born in our own atelier. This is
selection of valuable treasures at 27
true for unusual one-of-a-kind items
Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are
as well as for our diverse assortment
especially proud because for more than
of classic pieces with brilliant-cut
a century we have been privileged to
diamonds. And a century-old friendship
contribute to the grand feelings that our
links us with the world’s foremost watch
We accept all credit cards.
www.wempe.com
manufactories. You will find WEMPE
will always be available to meet your
showrooms at the loveliest locations
individual needs. We cordially invite you
in great European metropolises, New
to discover an abundance of interesting
York City and in Beijing. Each shop also
new items and exclusive special models
offers service or advice whenever you
at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We
require it, so you can be certain that we
look forward to your visit! Kurfürstendamm 215, T +49.(0)30.882 68 78 berlin.kurfuerstendamm@wempe.de Friedrichstraße 81, T +49.(0)30.20 39 99 20 berlin.friedrichstraße@wempe.de Rolex Boutique Kurfürstendamm 184, T +49.(0)30.55 66 90 10 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK
WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS
Willkommen bei Bucherer, ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmen und eines der führenden Häuser für Uhren und Schmuck in Europa. In unseren Berliner Geschäften am Kurfürstendamm und in der Friedrichstraße erwartet Sie eine große Auswahl an Luxus-Uhrenmarken sowie exquisite Schmuckstücke und ein erstklassiger Service.
Welcome to Bucherer, a Swiss company with a long tradition and one of the leading establishments for watches and jewellery in Europe. In our Berlin stores located at Kurfürstendamm and at Friedrichstrasse you will find a broad selection of luxury watch brands and exquisite jewellery, as well as first-class service.
und viele mehr · and many more
Berlin Friedrichstraße 176-179 | Kurfürstendamm 45
Patek Philippe is available at the following Bucherer stores: Berlin Friedrichstraße 179, Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1 and Munich Residenzstraße 11. Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com
For more than a century KaDeWe has been regarded as one of the world’s leading department stores, comparable to premier establishments such as Galeries Lafayette in Paris or Harrods in London. It ofers an exquisite and exclusive shopping experience, and is an outstanding innovator in generating new ideas for the department stores of the 21st century. KaDeWe shows a keen eye and excellent intuition in spotting future trends as well as selecting exclusive products on eight floors and a total floor space of 64,000 m². ARMANI COLLEZIONI · BULGARI · BURBERRY · CÉLINE · CHANEL · CHLOÉ CHOPARD · DIANE VON FURSTENBERG · DIOR · ETRO · FENDI · GIVENCHY GUCCI · HERMÈS · HUGO BOSS · LONGCHAMP · LOUIS VUITTON · MARNI MISSONI · MIU MIU · MONCLER · MONTBLANC · OMEGA · PRADA · ROLEX SAINT LAURENT · STELLA MCCARTNEY · JIMMY CHOO · TIFFANY & CO. TOD’S · VALENTINO · VERTU · WELLENDORFF · Z ZEGNA · AND MANY MORE
TIME IS A LUXURY NOWADAYS, SO LET US MAKE TIME FOR YOU! Te KaDeWe is delighted to ofer you many exclusive services, such as: PERSONAL SHOPPING SERVICE We will happily provide you with a Personal Shopper who will accompany, serve and expertly advise you throughout your visit to KaDeWe. Enjoy your visit to our store in the private atmosphere of our personal shopping suites with a glass of champagne or an espresso. To book your personal appointment, please contact us. T +49 30 2121 2554 · personal-shopping@kadewe.com BEAUTY LOUNGES & DAY SPA CLOAKROOM AND LUGGAGE STORAGE PORTER GIFT-WRAPPING SERVICE COMPLIMENTARY WIFI CUSTOMER SERVICES TAX FREE AVAILABLE AT EACH CASH POINT. IMMEDIATE CASH BACK ON THE 5TH FLOOR. Currency choice available, which allows you to pay in your own currency. KaDeWe Berlin ∙ Tauentzienstraße 21 - 24 ∙ 10789 Berlin ∙ T +49 30 2121 0 ∙ www.kadewe.de Opening Hours: Mon - Tur 10 am – 8 pm, Fri 10 am – 9 pm, Sat 9.30 am – 8 pm
A SPECI AL COLLEC TION BY GIGI HADID
#TOMMYXGIGI
KURFÜRSTENDAMM 217 MÜNZSTRASSE 21-23 BERLIN
12
EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera
دليل ألانيا 德国指南
Германия
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this cosmopolitan European capital. Berlin has much to ofer, as our guide on page 73 reveals. In this issue, we fnd out how artists and designers are collaborating this season (page 56) and visit some of the city’s leading brunch venues (page 68). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Berlin. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
巴黎
Portugal Prague Riga Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius
Чехия
Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN
Welcome to Berlin
Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Nuremberg Oslo Paris
THE EXPLORER II Built to accompany intrepid explorers, engineered for adventures to extreme frontiers. It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.
OYSTER PERPETUAL E XPLORER II
BERLIN AM ALEXANDER-PLATZ Welcome to your GALERIA Kaufhof
Please scan the QRcode with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Berlin, Alexanderplatz.
Free WLAN in our store!
A huge store packed with exclusive brands and the latest trends in a setting which combines tradition with modernity. Experience an inspiring variety of product displays which cover an area of 36,000 m² and make shopping a pleasure. Visit one of Europe`s most state-ofthe-art department stores in the heart of Berlin, surrounded by sightseeing highlights: the television tower, Hackescher Markt, Museum Island, Gendarmenmarkt and Brandenburger Gate. Enjoy the view on the Red Town Hall or Alexanderplatz from our restaurant. If you come from a country outside the EU, please enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof! We also offer the service City Refund and pay out all your German Tax Free Forms.
GALERIA Kaufhof...
... makes you fall in love with Germany
GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne
galeria-kaufhof.de
16
CONTRIBUTORS
PHOTO: ROBERT SHRAM
ILLUSTRATION: CHRISTINA HAGERFORS
Christina Hagerfors Christina Hagerfors created this season’s cover for SHOP Berlin. Her distinctive approach made her the perfect choice for this cover, which features a stylish bag covered in a pattern of smaller bags, inspired by our feature about Germany’s leading leather accessories designers (see page 50). Christina’s previous clients include Time Out and the University of the Arts London. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
Karen Munnis Writer and fashion stylist Karen Munnis has contributed to the Huffington Post, Motilo.com, Fashion magazine and the Globe & Mail, among others. Her stylist clients include Sony Music, MTV and the BBC. globalblue.com
Joanna McGinn Joanna McGinn spent 10 years reporting on city hotspots, cultural trends and fashion weeks for trend forecasting website WGSN. She now writes for publications such as BA Highlife, MyDaily.co.uk and Company magazine.
Sally McIlhone As SHOP’s deputy editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally has contributed to ShortList, Stylist and Total Film online.
It’s more fun, when it’s tax-free!
Grand Gourmet | Knife set 5 pieces
Gourmet Plus | Cookware set 7 pieces
instead of 384,75* €
instead of 789,90* €
289,–
499,–
with WMF Performance Cut®
*sum of the prices
WMF Stores Berlin www.wmf.de/filialen
Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12, Shop 0.26, Tel. 030 / 20143325 Alexanderplatz, Karl-Liebknecht-Str.11, Tel. 030 / 2425753 Grunerstr. 20, Tel. 030 / 23455925 Potsdamer-Platz-Arkaden, Tel. 030 / 25297218 Mitte, Friedrichstr. 185-190, Tel. 030 / 20214625
MALL OF BERLIN
BEST OF SHOPPING MORE THAN 300 SHOPS ICONIC BRANDS DELICIOUS FOOD HALL
M a r c O’ P o l o
LP12 Mall of Berlin | Leipziger Platz 12 | 10117 Berlin Fon +49302062177-0 | www.mallofberlin.de | facebook.com/leipzigerplatz Opening Hours: Monday - Saturday 10am - 9pm
22
SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Christina Hagerfors Contributors Theresa Harold, Joanna McGinn, Karen Munnis Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion writer Danielle De Wolfe News editor Ginger Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Charlotte Rogers Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Milkha Lala Artworking assistant Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy
GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Head of commercial Europe/ Latin America Pier Francesco Nervini Head of commercial Central Europe Ronald Christen Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialists Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko Sales manager Pino Dufter Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Berlin Tourismus & Kongress GmbH, Am Karlsbad 11, 10785 Berlin, +49 (0)30 250025, visitberlin.de
Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian
Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Sammy Ha, Adanna Nwachuku
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue
EDDIE REDMAYNE’S CHOICE
Berlin / Im Hotel Adlon Tel. 030 - 22 90 212 info@juwelier-leicht.de www.juwelier-leicht.de
24
CONTENTS Products
Features
28
50
30
32
Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Berlin this season My Favourites Stefanie Hanssen, cofounder of Frau Tonis Parfum, reveals her top tips for autumn/ winter 2016/17 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
News 40
48
News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products In Store … … with Campbell McDougall, owner of the Darklands store and exhibition space
56
62
Cover story: Luxe Leather Fans of luxurious, top-quality leather goods are sure to be impressed by Germany’s world-renowned high-end brands, says Sally McIlhone Good Together Fashion designers and artists are collaborating in exciting ways this season, as a result of Berlin’s dynamic creative scene. Karen Munnis reports No Limits Berlin Fashion Week this season saw balanced cutting-edge designs along with elements of sophistication. Joanna McGinn speaks to some of the most exciting names on the roster
PHOTO: © ME COLLECTORS ROOM BERLIN/BERND BORCHARDT
p. 56
Above: Cindy Sherman works from the Olbricht collection at Me Collectors Room Berlin
26
CONTENTS Experience
PHOTO: THE BARN
Café Society Take time to enjoy brunch at Berlin’s best morning hang outs, says Isabella Redmond Styles
Guide 73
Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Berlin, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights
Essentials 90
How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
Translations 91 Русский Перевод 96 美文翻译 104
Souvenir 106 The essential item to bring home
E NGL I S H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文
VISIT US ONLINE...
The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com
Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru globalblue.cn 每日更新精品购 物信息，分享海外省钱秘笈 FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- GlobalBlue /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent
PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
68
p. 68
Porsche Design Timepieces
1919 DATETIMER ETERNIT Y Exquisite alligator leather and browned titanium. Timeless elegance inspired by Bauhaus architecture and design. Designed in Austria. Swiss made.
19 19 C O L L E C T I O N INSPIRED BY OUR PASSION FOR DESIGN
www.porsche-design.com Berlin | Kurfürstendamm 48–49
28 | P RO D U C T S
CHECK OUT
CABIN MATE For a suitcase to be a reliable travel companion season after season it needs to be chic and functional, and Berlin’s Horizn Studios is a specialist when it comes to meeting these requirements. Horizn Studios’ cabin trolley has a tough polycarbonate shell exterior with useful additional features including a front pocket for storing documents, laptops or iPads, two USB ports and an integrated battery, with the power Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 90
to recharge phones up to eight times. This stellar design also has a removable laundry bag, silent multi-directional wheels and will fit inside the lockers on the planes of all major airlines – it seems that Horizn Studios has thought of everything to make your trip as smooth as possible. sm Horizn Studios Cabin Trolley, from €299, Horizn Studios, Alte Schönhauser Strasse 33-34, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2084 74735, horizn-studios.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 88
Berlin: FriedrichstraĂ&#x;e 158-164, KurfĂźrstendamm 213, LP12 Mall of Berlin
30 | P RO D U C T S
MY FAVOURITES: STEFANIE HANSSEN Stefanie Hanssen founded the fragrance boutique Frau Tonis Parfum in 2009 in conjunction with Christoph Niedermeier. Situated in Kreuzberg, the perfumery creates a wide range of fragrances for men and women and is noted for its approach to scent making. As well as selling perfumes under its own name, Frau Tonis Parfum also develops scents for companies including Volkswagen and KaDeWe. Here, Stefanie shares her favourite places and products for the coming season with Theresa Harold 1. ‘Anywhere around Mitte is great for shopping. At Hackesche Höfe you’re likely to fnd a wonderful avantgarde item’
1
Hackesche Höfe, Rosenthaler Strasse 40-41, 10178 Berlin, hackesche-hoefe.com
2. ‘I love our fragrance Bogota Berlin. Fruity fg and bergamot are paired with peppery cedarwood and spicy vetiver’ Frau Tonis Parfum Bogota Berlin fragrance, 100ml, €90, Frau Tonis Parfum, Zimmerstrasse 13, 10969 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2021 5310, frau-tonis-parfum.com
3. ‘My little yellow notebook that says Happy Thoughts is an item I carry with me everywhere’ Meri Meri notebook, €4.90, merimeri.com
PHOTO: WOLFGANG SIESING
2
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 90
S H O P | 31
5
3
4. ‘A favourite restaurant is Monsieur Vuong, serving delicious Indo-Chinese cuisine’ Monsieur Vuong, Alte Schönhauser Strasse 46, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 9929 6924, monsieurvuong.de
5. ‘The collection from Victoria Beckham this season is great. It’s innovative yet elegantly simple’ KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2121 2011, victoriabeckham.com
globalblue.com
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
PHOTO: HENDRIK HOLLER
4
32 | P RO D U C T S
DOWN TO EARTH 4
These items in natural hues will provide a contemporary look with a twist 1
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3
5
1. Ray-Ban Clubround glasses, €149, Augenoptik, Kronenstrasse 15, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2061 9814, ray-ban.com
3. Salvatore Ferragamo boots, €540, Salvatore Ferragamo, Kurfürstendamm 194, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8870 2010, ferragamo.com
2. Dries Van Noten by Frédéric Malle fragrance, 100ml, €200, Quartier 206, Friedrichstrasse 71, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2094 6500, fredericmalle.com
4. Corneliani jacket, €439, Peek & Cloppenburg, Tauentzienstrasse 19, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 212900, corneliani.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 90
5. Tod’s bag, made to order, price on request, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2191 6444, tods.com
S H O P | 33
POWER COUPLE
5
Black and gold is a classic combination for the autumn and winter 1
4
6
2
PHOTOS: (2) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY; (4) ©ROLEX
3
1. Chanel No5 L’Eau fragrance, 100ml, €125, Chanel, Kurfürstendamm 188-189, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8870 8280, chanel.com 2. Jimmy Choo bag, €2,795, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 4980 7503, jimmychoo.com
globalblue.com
3. Bally boots, €7,000, Bally, Kurfürstendamm 52, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8870 7688, bally.com
5. Louis Vuitton hat, from €965, Louis Vuitton, Kurfürstendamm 56-57, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 882 5272, louisvuitton.com
4. Rolex watch, €15,050, Rolex, Kurfürstendamm 184, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 5566 9010, rolex.com
6. Burberry dress, €5,250, Burberry, Kurfürstendamm 183, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 885 4811, burberry.com
34 | P RO D U C T S
SUBTLE STYLE Add the finishing touches to a classic black suit with interesting accessories 1
3
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1. Ermenegildo Zegna shoes, €495, Ermenegildo Zegna, Kurfürstendamm 186, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8871 9090, zegna.com
3. Nixon watch, €240, Vans Zooperstore, Bikini Berlin, Budapester Strasse 46, 10787 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2655 7355, nixon.com
2. Strellson suit, €399, Strellson, Münzstrasse 8, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2472 4042, strellson.com
4. Montblanc bag, €1,100, Montblanc, Friedrichstrasse 80, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2061 6796, montblanc.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 90
PHOTO: (2) KREATIVLOFT.CH
2
S H O P | 35
GOOD TO GO Have a smooth trip with these stylish, functional and high-tech items 1
4
6
5
2 4
PHOTOS: (2) JOAKIM EKLÖF; (3) JEPPE SØRENSEN
2
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1. Rimowa suitcase, €929, Rimowa, Kurfürstendamm 231, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 880030, rimowa.com
3. Bang & Olufsen BeoPlay A1 portable Bluetooth speaker, €249, Bang & Olufsen, Charlottenstrasse 62, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 3198 81800, bang-olufsen.com
5. Sandqvist backpack, €119, Greta & Luis, Rosenthaler Strasse 15, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2576 2635, sandqvist.net
2. Marshall headphones, €150, Saturn, Tunnel Alexanderplatz 3, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 263 9970, marshallheadphones.com
4. Nikon P900 camera, €539, Saturn, Marzahner Promenade 1A, 12679 Berlin, +49 (0)30 911450, nikon.com
6. GoPro Hero4 camera, €529.99, ActionCam, Wilhelmstrasse 156A, 13595 Berlin, +49 (0)30 3471 7360, gopro.com
globalblue.com
FASHION, LIFESTYLE AND MORE
You can find these and other top brands in Karstadt stores in: Berlin: Kurfürstendamm, Schlossstrasse, Charlottenburg, Hermannplatz, Müllerstrasse / Düsseldorf: Schadowstrasse / Frankfurt: Zeil / Hamburg: Mönckebergstrasse / Hanover: Georgstrasse / Leipzig: Petersstrasse / Dresden: Prager Strasse / Cologne: Breite Strasse / Munich: Bahnhofplatz / Nuremberg: An der Lorenzkirche
Our branches in top central locations in most major German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience. Lots of customers are attracted by not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events. Enjoy your next shopping spree on a journey of discovery through our Karstadt stores. Open until 8 p.m.
In the mood for fashion?
Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices. visit us: www.c-a.com facebook.com/ca Berlin: Kurfürstendamm 227-229 • Alexanderplatz 1 • Leipziger Platz 12/13 • Steglitz, Schlossstraße 17a
Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам. . .
40 | N E W S
PHOTO: TIGER OF SWEDEN AB
SHOP WINDOW
SHOW OF STRENGTH Founded in Sweden in 1903, Tiger of Sweden produces men’s and women’s clothing collections. Over the decades it has particularly developed its expertise in men’s tailoring and fashion. As part of its plans for expansion, the brand has opened a flagship store in Berlin, focused exclusively on menswear. Spread across Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 90
120 square metres the space was designed by Swedish firm Boys Don’t Cry which opted for clean lines and a simple design. Visit the new store to browse Tiger of Sweden’s seasonal collections and contemporary formalwear as well as the brand’s denim diffusion line. gc Tiger of Sweden, Neue Schönhauser Strasse 9, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2463 9950, tigerofsweden.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 88
42 | N E W S
SIMPLY SCENTS New York fragrance brand Le Labo has increased its presence in Germany with two recently opened boutiques in Berlin. Le Labo is known for its rustically stylish store designs and these two new shops – on Schlüterstrasse and on Alte Schönhauser Strasse (pictured) – are no different, juxtaposing original features of the buildings with sleek, modern display elements. Le Labo says that it is almost impossible to describe a fragrance in words and clients are therefore encouraged to visit one of the brand’s stores to experience its scents. Simple product names – such as Rose 31 – reflect Le Labo’s commitment to beautiful scents rather than to fancy packaging. Whichever product you select from the store, you can be certain to take home a perfume of the highest quality, which has been made from excellent ingredients sourced from countries around the world. hl Le Labo, Schlüterstrasse 37, 10629 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8877 7230; FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 81
Alte Schönhauser Strasse 26, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2576 6000, lelabofragrances.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 90
MODERN MOVEMENT Bucherer has been creating high jewellery and watches for almost 130 years. For 2016 the brand has developed a new watch movement, the CFB (Carl F Bucherer) A2000, designed and developed entirely in its own workshops. This drives the classic yet innovative Manero Peripheral watch, which is available from the end of October. The new timepiece, an impressive blend of modern engineering and traditional horlogerie, is available in six models which cost from €6,000 to €15,600. gc Bucherer, Kurfürstendamm 45, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 880 4030, bucherer.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 78
PHOTO: © LUCRECIA ALTHABE
S H O P | 43
STYLE DIRECTOR
ITALIAN SOUL
In its latest Boss womenswear collection, Hugo Boss has looked to architectural details and adapted them to follow feminine form and lines. Dresses, trouser suits and knitwear are rendered in an earthy colour palette of green, brown and beige, combined with vibrant touches such as deep raspberry. This new collection highlights the label’s expertise in creating luxury fashion and has been led by Jason Wu, the brand’s artistic director. fm Hugo Boss, Friedrichstrasse 165, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2061 3890, hugoboss.com
Anna and Lulù Poletti drew on their family’s Italian manufacturing heritage when they launched the Melampo womenswear label. Visitors to Berlin can explore the brand’s latest collection at the Melampo store on Linienstrasse, which features sophisticated marble and brass elements. At the centre of this season’s range are shirts and dresses which are made in Italy using high-quality fabrics woven in Italian mills. gc Melampo, Linienstrasse 54, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2391 8733, melampo.eu
FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 87
globalblue.com
FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 88
44 | N E W S
KEEPING TIME Maurice Lacroix has updated its Calypso watch, which became popular in the 1990s. The new design, the Aikon, keeps key traits of the original Calypso timepiece while incorporating refinements to suit modern tastes. The Aikon is available in three models including the pictured Aikon Chronograph 44 (€1,090 to €1,150); all models include a stopwatch and customers can choose from a silver, black or blue dial. This is a bold and characterful watch for those in search of a statement timepiece. gc Maurice Lacroix, Friedrichstrasse 166, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 3302 4852, mauricelacroix.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 87
Chopard, which is known across the world for its exquisite jewellery, is marking the 40th anniversary of its Happy Diamonds collection by updating and refining the line. An innovative technique of prong setting means that Chopard’s diamonds can now sparkle even more brightly, and this approach has been applied to the new offering. The ethereal Happy Dreams range has been inspired by clouds, and each piece features moving diamonds which appear to dance freely; the necklace in white gold (€3,930) has 21 of these precious stones and one moving diamond. gc Chopard, Kurfürstendamm 54, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 7009 6980, chopard.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 78
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 90
IN BRIEF This season, Swedish outerwear label Stutterheim has launched a new line that uses a pioneering waterproof bonded cotton. It is stocked at The Store in Soho House, along with the rest of the brand’s autumn/winter collection
PHOTO: (TOP) MARIAN GERARD
HAPPY ANNIVERSARY
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PERFECT VISION Dutch eyewear company Ace & Tate has opened its first store in Germany, on Berlin’s Alte Schönhauser Strasse. The store has been designed in partnership with Berlin design studio New Tendency and reflects Ace & Tate’s clean, minimalist eyewear designs. The store features raw concrete walls, a freestanding exposed wooden framework and powder-coated metal display cases, with floor-to-ceiling mirrors interspersed throughout. Having started as an online company, Ace & Tate is now providing its full brand experience at the new bricks-and-mortar store. rp Ace & Tate, Alte Schönhauser Strasse 42, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2150 2949, aceandtate.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 88
LOOK AHEAD Italian fashion label Fendi has introduced its HypnoShine sunglasses collection for the current season. The glasses are decorated with a striking wave pattern, echoing the wave motif which can be seen throughout Fendi’s latest womenswear collection. An ultra-flat frame has been artfully combined with graphic shapes and flowing lines and the glasses are available in a range of colour combinations. With its retro-futuristic appearance and skilful design, the HypnoShine collection is a clear articulation of Fendi’s expertise and creative vision. gc Fendi, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2191 3565, fendi.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 79
PHOTO: SØREN JEPSEN
IN BRIEF
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 90
Yumalove, Berlin’s first trainer store dedicated to sneakerheads aged 16 and under, has opened in the Rixdorf area. Yumalove stocks brands such as Asics, New Balance and Puma
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SHINE ON Wempe started out as a modest watchmaker’s store, founded in 1878 by Gerhard Wempe. Nearly 140 years later, it is now an international brand with stores across the world, but remains a fourth-generation familyowned business. Today Wempe is well known for its fine jewellery as well as for its timepieces. Among this season’s prestigious collection is Wempe’s haute joaillerie diamond necklace (€215,000). Made of three pear-shaped diamonds and almost 300 brilliant-cut diamonds, this stunning piece of jewellery is a masterpiece that will add elegance to any outfit. gc Wempe, Friedrichstrasse 82, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2039 9920, wempe.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 87
PHOTO: (TOP) MATTHIAS HOFFMANN
HIGH FASHION Aigner’s Epic Heights collection has been inspired by the wooded slopes and frozen tops of the mountains in the Bavarian Alps, as a reflection of the brand’s roots in Munich. The result is a collection of leather bags in contemporary shapes. Aigner’s signature Cybill design comes in six models which are available in a choice of colours including burgundy and forest green. The Epic Heights collection also includes the eye-catching Farrah handbag, with rings and leather fringing (from €1,900). gc Aigner, Kurfürstendamm 50, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8868 3668, aignermunich.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 78
globalblue.com
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IN STORE: DARKLANDS
‘The idea for Darklands came about simply because I wanted to live in Berlin. I set up numerous shops in Canada, including a Darklands predecessor called Komakino. Darklands has been open eight and a half years, Komakino predated that by three and a half, so I’ve been running this concept for 12 years. ‘When we moved to this part of the city five years ago, it was the most important art gallery area in Berlin. The location is a little unexpected for a high-end store: it has an industrial aesthetic and although it’s very central it’s off the beaten path. ‘As with my other stores, I was very involved with the design of Darklands, at every step of the way. Regarding the designers that we stock, this is a very natural, intuitive process for me; unlike most buyers, I buy what I like. Almost all designers that we carry are exclusive to us in Berlin and we like to collaborate with designers on just-for-Darklands editions.
PHOTOS: ESTEFANIA CAMPILLO
With its edit of pioneering labels, avant-garde store Darklands is at the cutting edge of fashion. Darklands’ founder, Canadian-born Campbell McDougall, also makes full use of its cavernous warehouse location, running striking art installations alongside the season’s must-have clothing. He tells Ximena Daneri and Fani Mari about his vision for the store, which is located close to Berlin’s central station
PHOTO: XIMENA DANERI
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We have done this with Boris Bidjan Saberi, Alexander Fielden, MA+ and Kuboraum, to name just a few. ‘It is challenging for me to pick favourites but I was very excited this season by Sandrine Philippe, Leon Emanuel Blanck, Julius and especially Geoffrey B Small. Darklands has a very specific
directional and timeless aesthetic. I’m not interested at all in seasonal trends, nor do I follow what they are. I am looking for classic, avant-garde styles. ‘My favourite other shops in Berlin are record shops Hard Wax and Dodo Beach; the antique shops on Suarezstrasse, and Zeitlos for
modern furniture; the Ostbahnhof and Arkonaplatz markets; and two art galleries, Eigen and Galerie Judin. ‘Are there any memorable stories about Darklands? Yes, I could write a book!’ Darklands, Heidestrasse 46-52, 10557 Berlin, darklandsberlin.com
LUXE LEATHER Fans of leather goods are sure to be impressed by Germany’s high-end brands, says Sally McIlhone Opposite: Gretchen Calla backpack, autumn/winter 2016/17
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ermany has an illustrious history when it comes to leather goods. Luxury brand MCM has become an internationally coveted label in the 40 years since its foundation, with trendsetting youngsters wearing its backpacks as a matter of course. Bag specialist Bree caters more to the traditionalist, while Offermann has a streamlined selection of briefcases for the modern professional and Liebeskind Berlin offers affordable catwalk-inspired options for all. Here, a diverse selection of experts from across the country explain how Germany has 91
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developed into the go-to destination for bags, purses and leather goods. Braun Büffel is a German handbag and accessories brand that has certainly made its mark on the fashion world. Originally founded in Kirn, a town famous for leather production, the 129-year-old brand still manufactures its products in Germany today. It is one of the country’s most enduring labels and has cultivated a stellar reputation throughout its history. Though many might consider Italy to be the leading producer of luxury leather, Braun Büffel’s managing director Christiane Above (clockwise from top left): Fable-62 small Boston bag; Fable-82 sling bag; Ophelia H-22 handbag; Fable-21 small tote, all Braun Büffel autumn/winter 2016/17
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Brunk explains why Germany is an equally serious contender to the title. ‘Firstly, in Germany, vocational roles such as leather crafting are valued in society,’ she says. ‘Secondly, we are always seeking perfection in whatever we do, it’s a part of our culture. When it comes to leather crafting, we are trained to be precise, without room for error. We place strong emphasis on the quality of the product.’ Braun Büffel aims to set itself apart from other leather goods brands by undertaking extensive market research in order to ensure that it appeals to modern audiences. Brunk Above: handcrafting in progress in the Gretchen atelier
explains, ‘We place a huge emphasis on what the customer is looking for. For the women’s range, when we started taking a bold stance in the colourways, there was a favourable response. We started exercising more creativity in terms of bag types and shapes.’ Some of the more creative styles from the current collection include the Fable range, which showcases a graphic forest print in autumnal brights, with the brand’s buffalo motif incorporated into the pattern. Traditionalists will be pleased to learn that more classic styles, such as the black Ophelia handbag and the pillarbox-red
Astrid backpack, are also available. Whatever your style, Braun Büffel is most certainly a leather connoisseur’s choice. Design lovers will want to acquaint themselves with Gretchen. A relative newcomer on the leather goods scene, the brand celebrates its 10th anniversary this year and already has a Red Dot Design Award to its name, something designer and managing director Anne-Christin Schmitt describes as ‘a great honour’. The award-winning design, the Tango Pouch, channels the style of handbags from the 1920s yet still looks incredibly modern. ‘The subtle
decoration with profile structures underneath the leather underlines the drop shape and the special design,’ explains Schmitt. ‘And the option to carry the bag hanging on your arm gives it a unique wearability aspect. So the Tango Pouch combines the best of the Gretchen brand virtues!’ The Tango Pouch is just one of Gretchen’s beautiful, intriguing bags. For autumn/winter 2016/17, we are particularly drawn to the Ebony shoulder bag, Opal duffel bag and Calla backpack. ‘An aesthetic shape, timeless design and beautiful leather is what makes a Gretchen,’
Above (clockwise from top left): Gretchen metallic Tango Pouch; two styles from PB 0110 autumn/winter 2016/17; Gretchen’s Ebony shoulder bag
PHOTO (TOP AND BOTTOM RIGHT): HAW-LIN SERVICES
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PHOTO: VANESSA MAAS/GLAMPOOL
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For Germany’s diverse leather goods brands, creating their individual products is a labour of love, evident in the impeccably made pieces says Schmitt. Discover the brand’s innovative bags at its Berlin store. For the minimalists among us, PB 0110 is a perfect fit. The three-year-old brand was set up by Philipp Bree – the son of Wolf Peter and Renate Bree who founded German leather goods brand Bree. Working with German designers such as Christian Metzner and Ayzit Bostan to create angular handbags, roomy totes, sleek purses and backpacks, PB 0110 describes its focus as centring on ‘beloved objects’ or ‘things that develop their individuality through daily use and time’. Above: Philipp Bree, founder of PB 0110
As such, the designs are simple and clean, allowing customers to wear them on their own terms. The brand is less concerned with seasonal collections, instead adding to its range with new colourways and building on a core of key products. As Philipp Bree commented to Wallpaper magazine in a recent interview, ‘the good styles stay as long as they are wanted.’ For Germany’s diverse leather goods brands, creating their individual products is truly a labour of love, which is evident in the impeccably made pieces you’ll find in their stores
GOOD TOGETHER Fashion designers and artists are collaborating in exciting ways this season, as a result of Berlin’s dynamic creative scene. Karen Munnis reports Opposite: Prada autumn/winter 2016/17 collaboration with Christophe Chemin
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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Christophe Chemin’s ink and pencil illustrations have been turned into prints for Prada’s men’s and women’s collections. Chemin is a self-taught artist, photographer and author of four books, and also has a collaboration with fashion label Ann Demeulemeester under his belt. His menswear prints for Prada are inspired by art history and European mythology, including Greek gods and goddesses, while his womenswear prints are influenced by the French revolution. As well as being seen on the catwalk, Chemin’s fashion prints have also been displayed in a more artistic setting. His illustrations and extensive correspondence between Miuccia Prada and Prada’s design
PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM
rtists and fashion designers have, over the decades, collaborated in various ways. Spanish surrealist Salvador Dalí inspired many of Elsa Schiaparelli’s noted designs and, more recently, Japanese artist Takashi Murakami’s prints have been emblazoned on Louis Vuitton handbags. Although this concept isn’t new in Berlin, the autumn/winter 2016/17 season has seen substantial growth in collaborations between artists and designers. Berlin’s fashion brands are linking with artists and vice versa, and designers are making fashion films or using photography to create new experiences in the sector. Most notably, Berlin-based artist
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Above (both): Prada autumn/winter 2016/17 collaboration with Christophe Chemin
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PHOTOS: NICOLAS KANTOR
In a city like Berlin, known for its creative scene, it’s no surprise that the boundaries between fashion and art are beginning to blur
director Fabio Zambernardi were exhibited at 032c magazine’s headquarters in Berlin’s St Agnes space as part of a show called Keep Your Daisies for the Cold Days. Chemin and Prada are not the only ones pushing boundaries. For autumn/winter 2016/17, Lala Berlin’s designer Leyla Piedayesh didn’t hold a traditional catwalk show but instead opted to present her collection, Persian Queen goes to Berlin, as a fashion film at Me Collectors Room. Based in Mitte, this large white-walled gallery is owned by art collector and expert Thomas Olbricht. It shows important temporary and permanent exhibitions, such as a recent retrospective of work by American photographer Cindy Sherman. Above: Lala Berlin designer Leyla Piedayesh
Directed by Jonas Lindstroem, the Lala Berlin fashion film tells the story of a woman during three stages of her life. ‘I wanted something different. Something that would engage people and be emotional at the same time,’ says Piedayesh. ‘I wanted to drag the focus from fashion to an emotional 3D level – to see, hear, and feel. There were no seats, no rules, just a fashion film to give the audience a taste and general mood of our AW16 collection.’ The acoustics in Me Collectors Room lent themselves well to the film’s score, which featured Piedayesh’s favourite singer Jesper Munk, whose soul-stirring tunes played over the film. Piedayesh and Lindstroem have collaborated before, so their partnership felt
PHOTO: LALA BERLIN PHOTO: © ME COLLECTORS ROOM BERLIN / BERND BORCHARDT
PHOTO: LALA BERLIN
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Above (clockwise from top left): two looks from Lala Berlin autumn/winter 2016/17; Cindy Sherman works from the Olbricht Collection at Me Collectors Room Berlin
PHOTOS: MAXIME BELLESTEROS
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right for this collection which was inspired by Persepolis – the ancient Persian capital. It features one-shoulder silhouettes, 3D knits and a new signature print based on ancient depictions of creatures. ‘This collection mirrors my background and relationship to Iran in a really beautiful way. The whole inspiration goes back to my Persian roots,’ says the designer. The relationship between artist and designer is also paramount for Don’t Shoot the Messenger (DSTM) designer Jen Gilpin, who collaborates with her husband, photographer Maxime Ballesteros, on all her brand’s imagery. For her autumn/winter lookbook, Gilpin was inspired by 1940s surrealist film-maker Maya Deren who was ‘such a strong woman and made some beautiful imagery in her films’. The nod to surrealism includes some odd pairings, such as a model wearing quintessential DSTM black bodywear and seated beside a pair of mannequin legs (which recalls the work of fashion photographer Guy Bourdin). A large pitchfork and ladder are used as props and there’s a false, self-inflicted stab wound to the hand – this isn’t for the faint of heart. Art is a huge influence on Gilpin’s designs for DSTM. ‘I’m more interested in art inspirations than in fashion inspirations. I see clothing creations as little wearable inventions,’ she explains. DSTM has found an aesthetic to covet and has stuck to it, with an all-black collection that includes leather and silk. ‘For me black is the medium and the message comes into form with the lines, cuts and geometry of the clothing,’ says Gilpin. The team is currently working on a new collection and moving towards a seasonless approach, using art to create an aesthetic that makes women feel strong, elegant and sensuous. In a city like Berlin, which is known for its creative scene, it’s no surprise that the boundaries are beginning to blur. ‘Art and fashion belong together. There’s not really a border for me,’ says Piedayesh. And the inspiration that artists provide to fashion designers will not diminish anytime soon. ‘The art world is very interesting here,’ says Gilpin. ‘I love having artists around me, they inspire me greatly and remind me of the meaning behind creation.’ Above (from top): Don’t Shoot The Messenger designer Jen Gilpin; DSTM autumn/winter 2016/17
NO LIMITS
PHOTO: ELIZAVETA PORODINA
Berlin Fashion Week this season saw balanced cutting-edge designs along with elements of sophistication. Joanna McGinn speaks to some of the most exciting names on the roster
Opposite: Sarah Effenberger Fomme autumn/winter 2016/17
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ow in its 19th season, Berlin Fashion Week has firmly established itself on the international fashion scene. The autumn/winter 2016/17 edition of the event showcased the latest work from 47 designers and attracted high-impact celebrities to the audience including models Gigi Hadid and Karolina Kurkova. Although Berlin Fashion Week is becoming an established event – and there were commercially minded collections here – like the city itself, it embraces the off-beat and the underground, and maintains a sense of the renegade at its core. Marina Hoermanseder is one designer who introduced a hint of subversion to fashion week, with womenswear which perfectly balanced 94 102
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wearable elegance with what she calls a ‘touch of fetish’. After training at the design school Esmod Berlin, Austrian-born Hoermanseder chose the city as her base, in part because of its strong creative community. ‘The melting pot of many creative heads was a major help. Being able to show my first collection during Berlin Fashion Week was the starting point of my career... I don’t know if another city would have offered me this chance,’ she says. Since launching her label in 2013, Hoermanseder has been feted by the fashion crowd for her leather-strap skirts, moulded corsets and buckle detailing, which epitomise grown-up femininity. ‘An eccentric avant-garde lady might wear the strap skirt, the business Above (both): Marina Hoermanseder autumn/winter 2016/17
PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM
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Above (both): Sarah Effenberger Fomme autumn/winter 2016/17
PHOTO: ELIZAVETA PORODINA
woman a silk blouse... and the girl next door our Team MH jumper,’ the designer explains. For autumn/winter 2016/17, she looked to Amilia Earhart, the first female pilot to fly solo across the Atlantic. ‘Her strength, courage and independence were very inspiring to me,’ Hoermanseder explains. ‘The collection is about understated femininity and about women who overcome their own limits.’ Her label’s signature details are leather straps and rose-gold buckles, while the label also features ‘orthopedic elements of the 18th century’. According to Hoermanseder these are an ‘indispensable part of the collection’. The deft combination of powder pink, palest blue, soft apricot and warm chocolate shades, with harder-edged lacquered and sculpted leather, alongside a new range of accessories, certainly has an international appeal and the designer has set her sights on the US, with a New York show being planned. The androgynous look has been seen on the runways of many fashion weeks around the world, but the gender-fluid aesthetic featured at Berlin long before unisex clothing was adopted by global clothing companies. One designer who has taken the theme and run with it is name-to-watch Sarah Effenberger. The Berlin University of the Arts graduate was selected by Vogue Germany editor Christiane Arp to present her unisex collection Fomme at the Vogue Salon show. The designer explains that instead of ‘trying to achieve a neutral, androgynous shape that negates the different body shapes of men and women’ she designs for men ‘in a very fragile and feminine way’. Her sensual, decorative menswear can also be made-to-measure for women. Effenberger’s collection features oversized tartan coats with pussy-bow ties and curved lapels, blazers sculpted to emphasise the waist and hips, chiffon blouses and flowing wide-leg trousers all in muted tones of grey, burgundy, black and icy blue. When talking about the starting point for her designs, she explains that ‘as a female consumer, I find myself often wanting to buy menswear, but most of the time I don’t fit inside these men’s clothes.’ The result is a fresh take on gender-mixed dressing. This season felt deliberately low-key,
PHOTO: STEVEN KOHLSTOCK
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with some designers choosing to keep things more intimate, opting for presentations or installations over conventional catwalk shows. One designer who created an in-the-know buzz was Laos-born, Berlin-raised Hien Le, who presented his collection off the main runways at the Berliner Mode Salon. Le launched his collection in 2010, having cut his teeth in Antwerp with Veronique Branquinho. His autumn/winter 2016/17 collection has a unisex vibe, with men’s and women’s clothing made up of crisp, blockcoloured pieces that he describes as a ‘reduction to the essentials: sleek and clean with a love for refined details.’ Le’s collection focuses on discreet, curved cuts and detailing such as subtle panelling and long-length sleeves along with bolder striped and tartan separates and a clean palette of crisp navy, white and tomato red. The collection was inspired by the Congolese sapeurs, elegant men who make flamboyant dandyism part of their everyday uniforms, with impeccable and brightly coloured tailoring. Quality, provenance and sustainability are integral to Le, whose collection is made in Germany. ‘My customer is ageless, someone who appreciates what she or he is wearing, who likes good quality and feels comfortable in it,’ the designer explains. This is also a reflection of Berlin Fashion Week, which eschews fanfare in favour of detail and design Above (all): Hien Le autumn/winter 2016/17
PHOTOS: PASCAL GAMBARTE
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You can find us on laurel.de
laurellovers Laurèl
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CAFÉ SOCIETY Take time to enjoy brunch at Berlin’s best morning hang outs, says Isabella Redmond Styles
Berlin is well known for its brunch venues and many locals consider that the first meal of the day is the most important. This reputation has been gained in large part because of the speciality coffee roasters who take great care with the drinks that they prepare, and some have gone on to open fashionable cafés where great coffee is paired with innovative food. Many of Berlin’s best brunch spots have been inspired by international cuisine, and you’re as likely to find Japanese and Australian dishes alongside more traditional egg-based or fried meat options. Healthy dishes can be found as well as more indulgent treats and a number of eateries serve all-day brunches, so you can enjoy a wide range of dishes whenever you visit. globalblue.com
SILO COFFEE Inspired by Australian breakfast culture, this Friedrichshain hang out is the flagship store for Fjord Coffee roasters. As well as being famous for making coffee, the café’s lovingly prepared brunches are also respected in the city. Sip on an artfully made flat white while deciding on your meal choice, which may include a plate of avocado and poached eggs with houmous and beetroot, the sublime oven-baked pancakes with ricotta, maple syrup and berries, or a filling dish of bacon and sausages. Silo Coffee, Gabriel-Max-Strasse 4, 10245 Berlin, +49 (0)30 7407 8746, silo-coffee.com
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ROA M E R S
PHOTO: XIMENA DANERI
Travel to sun-soaked California without leaving Berlin via Roamers. This wonderful café in Neukölln is a favourite with the city’s trendiest locals thanks to its earthy and unpretentious interior and beautifully presented food. There are plenty of egg-based dishes to get stuck into, including fried egg with black beans, homemade salsa, feta and side salad. The Lonesome Sailor is well worth trying: this combination of smoked salmon, horseradish, avocado and a poached egg is sprinkled with dill, sesame seeds and crumbled feta. Leave room for something sweet, as Roamers’ cakes, especially the cheesecake, have become local legends. Roamers, Pannierstrasse 64, 12043 Berlin, roamersberlin.tumblr.com
Serving all-day brunch and lunch, this is a great choice for those who are looking for something a bit different. Organic and locally sourced ingredients are used when possible, freshly baked bread is served and gluten-free options are available. American and Europeaninspired brunch dishes are served including toasted croissants with fruit salad, maple syrup and whipped cream, and croque-madame: a grilled ham and gruyère sandwich topped with béchamel sauce and scrambled eggs. The lunch menu includes equally interesting options including a fusion Tex-Mex and Japanese dish made with pork, spinach, avocado, parmesan and rice, and Tsukune Done – Japanese chicken meatballs with soy sauce and nori. House of Small Wonder, Johannisstrasse 20, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2758 2877, houseofsmallwonder.de globalblue.com
PHOTO: © ROAMERS
HOUSE OF SM A L L WON DE R
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THE BARN COFFEE SHOP
PHOTO: NICO ALARY
If you like to focus on caffeine at the start of your day, The Barn Coffee Shop is the place to visit. This is one of Germany’s leading coffee roasters and you’re guaranteed to get an expertly made cup, whether it’s an espressobased blend or a hand-brewed filter coffee. Care is taken at all stages with, for example, milk served at the ideal temperature for coffee of 50-60 degrees Celsius. Snacks including sandwiches, scones and cakes are served to eat in or take away. This is the perfect place in which to fill up before a day of sightseeing in the city, with Museums Island and Alexanderplatz not too far away. The Barn Coffee Shop, Auguststrasse 58, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)151 2410 5136, thebarn.de
PHOTO: THE BARN
Named in reference to a poem by the German artist Kurt Schwitters, Café Anna Blume in the popular Prenzlauer Berg neighbourhood is a flower shop as well as a café. The menu changes each week and the ingredients mainly depend on what’s seasonally available, and vegans and vegetarians are well catered for. Brunch choices include croissants, bircher muesli with fruit, nuts and yoghurt and a wide variety of free-range egg dishes. Generously laden mixed plates are also prepared, consisting of meat, cheese, bread and fresh fruit. Sit among the blooms as you enjoy a very good cup of coffee with your meal choice and follow this with a slice of Café Anna Blume’s freshly made cake. Café Anna Blume, Kollwitzstrasse 83, 10435 Berlin, +49 (0)30 4404 8749, cafe-anna-blume.de
PHOTO: THE BARN
CAFÉ ANNA BLUME
POTSDAMER PLATZ ARKADEN · ALTE POTSDAMER STR. 7 · 10785 BERLIN ALEXA EINKAUFSZENTRUM · GRUNERSTR. 20 · 10179 BERLIN SCHÖNHAUSER ALLEE ARKADEN · SCHÖNHAUSER ALLEE 80 · 10439 BERLIN
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GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Berlin with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a creative bookshop to a Bali-inspired spa. Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/berlin.
PHOTO: © BERLIN PARTNER/FTB-WERBEFOTOGRAFIE
A Glimpse Of Berlin
SHOP, the world’s leading travel and shopping guide, wants to learn more about you, our readers. To tell us more about yourself, and have the chance to win an iPad Pro, visit globalblue.com/shopsurvey, or scan the QR code. Above: inside the dome of the Reichstag building
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SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY
PHOTOS: AMBEROSE HE; KATIE BYRNE; KIRSTY WELSH
‘Berlin is a must-see even in the briskest winter weather; the city combines historic landmarks, a spectacular art scene, divine eateries and the most exciting nightlife in the world’ – Katie Byrne, SHOP’s assistant picture editor
globalblue.com
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Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopcontent. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!
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The Berlin Lego store allows fans of all ages to enjoy the creative and engaging world of Lego to full effect. The store is equipped with special building tables where visitors, both young and old, can get to work on their own constructions. There is also a Pick a Brick Wall, where you can choose the bricks and elements you want from a huge range of different shapes and colours. Dedicated fans will also want to sign up to the Lego VIP Programme for exclusive news, offers and invitations from the brand. Lego, Tauentzienstrasse 20, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2101 6222, lego.com
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Featured In This Issue
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Global Blue Refund Ofce
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PHOTO: ARGUM
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ST R A SS E M O M MS EN
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Kurfürstendamm, Joachimstaler Strasse & Tauentzienstrasse
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ZOO PALAST Bikini Berlin
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SELECTED SHOPS IN BIKINI BERLIN: Alessi Andreas Murkudis Carhartt S CH APE R ST Closed RA SS Cyberport E Ganni Gant Gestalten Pavilion Kusmi Tea
Mabba Mammut Mykita Odeeh P.A.R.O.S.H Premiata Super Tailor & Tales The North Face Vans Vitra Artek
SELECTED SHOPS IN KADEWE: Burberry Bulgari Calvin Klein Céline Chopard Christ Diesel Dior Fendi P.46 Hermès Hugo Boss Lacoste Louis Vuitton Miu Miu
Montblanc Nespresso Omega Niki Prada Rolex Rosenthal Salvatore Ferragamo Steiff Sony Tiffany & Co Tod’s Vertu Wellendorff WMF
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PRO QM Set up by a group of artists and architects, the Pro qm bookstore is housed in a distinctive 1920s building and specialises in design, art, politics, pop music and architecture publications. It’s a beautifully thought out space where events and exhibitions are also held. Pro qm, Almstadtstrasse 48-50, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2472 8520, pro-qm.de
PHOTO: KATJA EYDEL
FA S A N E N S T R A
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SELECTED SHOPS IN KARSTADT: Jack & Jones Pimkie Tissot
KÄTHE-KOLLWITZ -MUSEUM
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&A ●C MEN FOR ● FFS ●O H & MR ● HRT BE L FA H LHU R● WO E HAL WEBE ● ÄT H RY HUT ● K LY É GER L ASS NEUES N S ● G ● O LON E CK C A F Y CKE N SUN O P E R ● NZ URBA ● ARD S KRA ●H TER FIT OSS ● OLO ● B OUT O ’P E L A RC N APP ND ● ● M A S L E R M I L L ER S ● LA BER OUR ● B A R E N E L KO TIM BARB NO ● R ● K HA A E MIC TUJ FIG ● HIL CAR OS ● C O M M YO L R I C H E ● T ● WO P E P ● LEICA IZIA AT R ● P O ECK L N● ● T APC LLA ● ● RC H R I S I S T O RZE TUR ● ● EPH D S E P O FA K Y ICH MANU OPLE ● ● MP I C A R E N AV IGL KO AK ● WEMP NDER KÖ N THE ILIPP HT ● ● IL SA TE F C KNE ● JL A C O SA A C K ULI ● VA N L ●
KPM
INT ’S S PO EVI ● ● L NNER ON U ETT TZ ● ●R M BEN & GÖR A ● ●H DOR ● PA N AT C H ARA ●Z SW SEL ● tadt DIE Kars
APOTHEKE ● AM ZOO
Karstadt Sport
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Department Store
Shopping Centre/Mall
Place Of Interest
U-Bahn
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Wilmersdorfer Strasse BAUHAUS ● K RUMME ST
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Global Blue Retailer
SYBEL STR .
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SELECTED SHOPS IN KANT-CENTER: Idee
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Peek & Cloppenburg Kant-Center
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G OET HEST RA SSE
● FIELMANN ● HUGENDUBEL
W IL M E
SSE
HK
LEI B NIZ STR A S
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Wilmersdorfer Arkaden
SELECTED SHOPS IN WILMERSDORFER ARKADEN: Annette Hentschel Biba Bijou Brigitte Bong Apotheke Bonita Christ Colloseum Deichmann Douglas Ecco Esprit Eterna Fischer Mode Foot Locker Forever 18 Gabor H&M Intersport Sportpoint Jack & Jones Jeans Fritz Lascana Medimax Mustang New Yorker Nicolas Scholz Promod Puma Reno Runners Point S Oliver Spiele Max Tally Weijl Tamaris Top Two Yves Rocher Zero
HESTR A
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KUR FÜ
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Place Of Interest
Shopping Centre
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S H O P | 81
Bleibtreustrasse
SCHILLER S
TOP 3...SPAS
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S C H LÜ T E R
S T R ASS E
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Vabali At Vabali spa you could be forgiven for thinking you’re in Bali rather than in central Berlin. Facilities include several pools, a sauna and steam room and excellent massages are available. Vabali, Seydlitzstrasse 6, 10557 Berlin, +49 (0)30 911 4860, vabali.de
● MÖVE
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ASS E
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KN E SEB ECK
BL EI BT R EU
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SCHUHKONZEPT ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ● DIE SEHMÄNNER ●
DA M
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● SØR WOMAN ● PASHION ● FLEUR DE PARIS ● GIORGIA BOUTIQUE ● BLEIBGRÜN
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globalblue.com
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UH L A N D S
KU R
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DOLCE VITA ● M O M MSE N ST RA
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MEYER NEHLS ●
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Cowshed Spa The charming British beauty brand Cowshed provides unbeatable manicures and pedicures along with excellent massages and stressbusting facials at its Berlin spa. Cowshed Spa, Soho House Berlin, Torstrasse 1, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 4050 44130, cowshedonline.com Le Petit Spa As its name suggests, this is one of the most compact spas in the city and can be privately booked by groups of four. The great massages, sauna and comfortable surroundings make it very hard to leave. Le Petit Spa, Czeminskistrasse 4, 10829 Berlin, +49 (0)30 3259 0805, edle-koepfe.com
82 | G U I D E
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Intersport Sporthaus Pimkie Primark Strauss Innovation Spiele Max
Forum Steglitz
MANGO ● VERO MODA / JACK & JONES ●
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3 10 HN BA SE AS
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LLOYD CONCEPT STORE ● SCHILDHORN APOTHEKE ● BIBA ●
BU
NS
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Karstadt
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Peek & Cloppenburg
TR
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Centre Steglitz
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● HIRMER
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SELECTED SHOPS IN FORUM STEGLITZ: Esprit H&M Hunkemöller
SE
SS
AS
RA
OS
TH
RUNNERS POINT ●
SC
TIVOLA ●
HN BA
BU
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● FOOT LOCKER ● BIBA
SS
ST RG
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APOLLO-OPTIK ● FIELMANN ● BASLER ●
TO
● ULLA POPKEN SPORTSCHECK ● ● WITTSTOCK BRAX ● ● BONITA THE BODY SHOP ● CLARKS ● ● VILLEROY & BOCH DOUGLAS ● PETIT BATEAU ● ● NATURKAUFHAUS
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TO ES
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BIRKENSTOCK ● GLOBETROTTER ●
SÜDENDSTR A SS E
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SELECTED SHOPS IN CENTRE STEGLITZ: Aktiv Schuh Apollo Optik Ara Bijou Brigitte Christ Comma Desigual Douglas Esprit Gerry Weber G-Star Hallhuber H&M Hollister Hunkemöller Jette Joop Karstadt Karstadt Sports Konplott Kult Lloyd L’Occitane Lush LTB Mexx New Yorker Only Orsay Pandora Pilgrim Promod Runners Point Saturn S Oliver Sidestep Tamaris Tally Weijl Zara
HT
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SELECTED SHOPS IN DAS SCHLOSS: Anson’s Benetton Bonita Christ Colloseum Conrad Electronic Esprit Gabor-Camel Gamestop Geox Gerry Weber Görtz H&M Marc O’Polo Media Markt Mexx New Yorker Orsay Pimkie S Oliver Street One Tommy Hilfiger
SHOP DIARY
A ROUND–UP OF THIS SEASON’S MUST–DOS Christmas markets From 21 November, take your pick of the city’s 60 Christmas markets, selling festive delicacies including mulled wine, roasted chestnuts and gingerbread alongside local crafts. visitberlin.de
NOV
Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest
New Year’s Eve Celebrate the start of 2017 in good company at the lively 2km-long party on Strasse des 17 near the Brandenburg Gate, where you will find performances, food stalls and party tents on 31 December. visitberlin.de
DEC
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Berlinale Berlin’s annual film festival, which runs from 9 to 19 February, attracts Hollywood stars as well as local talent. Much of the wide-ranging programme is open to members of the public. berlinale.de
FEB
Department Store
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Berlin Hilton
STADTMITTE
MST
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Place Of Interest
GERMAN CATHEDRAL
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Hyat Hotel
Shopping Centre/Mall
CONCERT HALL BERLIN
MA
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HEL
P OT S DA M POTSDAMER PLATZ
Sofitel
NH Hotel
WIL
Hotel Berlin Marriot
A SSE
Mall of Berlin
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Hotel de Rome
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Westin Grand Hotel Hotel Adlon
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Maritim pro Arte Hotel
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Hien Le Discover Hien Le’s minimalist and wonderfully modern clothing designs. Voo, Oranienstrasse 24, 10999 Berlin, +49 (0)30 6957 972710, hien-le.com
K EN S T R A S S E
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TELEVISION TOWER MUSEUMSINSEL
SAS Radisson Dom Aquaree
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Ace & Tate Ace & Tate’s optical designs are on trend all year round. Visit the brand’s first German store to see the range. Ace & Tate, Alte Schönhauser Strasse 42, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2150 2949, aceandtate.com
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Tiger of Sweden Tiger of Sweden’s new store showcases the brand’s menswear – including the must-see denim diffusion line – and men’s accessories. Tiger of Sweden, Neue Schönhauser Strasse 9, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2463 9950, tigerofsweden.com
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globalblue.com
House of Small Wonder Enjoy House of Small Wonder’s baked brunch treats - from croissants and French toast to croque-madames. House of Small Wonder, Johannisstrasse 20, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2758 2877, houseofsmallwonder.de
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EV
DEUTSCHE KINEMATHEK ER
ST
R.
Z
Potsdamer Platz Arkaden
PL A TZ
M DA
R P L AT L EI PZIGE
ER
LIQUIDROM ●
TS
P OT
EB
S DA
MER
T AL
TS
Mall of Berlin
U E S TR A SSE
● SONY CENTER
O EP
SSE
T R A SS E
VO S S ST R A
BE
SELECTED SHOPS IN MALL OF BERLIN: 1.2.3. Mephisto 7 For All Mankind Mexx Airfield Muji Almano Navyboot Apotheke Am Neo Adidas Leipziger Platz Nike Ledermanufactur Olymp Armani Jeans One Green Elephant Bershka Pandora Bree Peek & Cloppenburg C&A . Christ Pennyblack Cinque Pepe Jeans Cos René Lezard Deichmann Reno Denim & Supply Replay Desigual Rich And Royal Douglas Rituals Esprit Runners Point Eterna Salamander Falke Sarar Fashion Club Saturn Fast Forward Shoe City Foot Locker Sidestep Fossil Silk & Cashmere Gant Snipes Gina Tricot Sportalm Kitzbühel G-Star Sportscheck E A S SSteiff Guess L EI PZ IG ER ST R H&M Strellson Hallhuber Strenesse Hollister Swarovski Hugo Boss The Body Shop Hunkemöller Thomas Sabo Intersport Tom Tailor Jack & Jones Tommy Hilfiger Kusmi Tea Toys R Us Lacoste Triumph Laurel Twin-Set Levi’s Undiz RS TR AS SE Liebeskind ZIM MEUniqlo Lloyd Vero Moda Mango We Fashion Marc Cain WMF Massimo Dutti Wormland Mavi Yves Rocher Max & Co Zara GL IN K A ST
EBERTSR A SSE
MOHRENSTRASSE
N LI N D EN
FR IED R IC HS
SELECTED SHOPS IN POTSDAMER PLATZ ARKADEN: 1.2.3 Kiko Neo Adidas Mandarina Duck Ampelmann Anna Stern Mango Apanage Marc O’Polo Biba Nara Camicie Bijou Brigitte Palmers Lejaby Bonita Promod Charlotte Puma Christ Quiksilver Deichmann S Oliver Douglas Street One Einblick Optik Swarovski Esprit Tally Weijl G-Star The Body Shop Gerry Weber TK Maxx Guess Tommy Hilfiger H&M Vero Moda Herbawi WMF Hunkemöller Wolford
TR
AS SE
TAKE A WALK
Global Blue Retailer Hotel
Non-Global Blue Retailer
PHOTO: © GRACE BIRD
Explore the East Side Gallery, the largest remaining intact section of the Berlin Wall. Located on Mühlenstrasse, this part of the wall spans 1.3km and is covered in eye-catching and thoughtful artwork, providing a fascinating and important insight into the German capital’s history.
Place Of Interest
Shopping Centre
S H O P | 87
TEMPORARY SHOWROOM Temporary Showroom is a platform for up-andcoming German and international fashion designers. Part showroom and part store, with occasional events, this is a great place to find avant-garde pieces by fashion-forward labels such as AD Deertz, MM6, Stine Goya and Sandqvist. Temporary Showroom, Kastanienallee 36A, 10435 Berlin, +49 (0)30 6220 4564, temporaryshowroom.com
Unter Den Linden, Friedrichstrasse & Französische Strasse AGU
FER ST RAUS S
E EN ST R
● DUSSMANN STORE
A SSE SC HA D OW
D O RO T H
● SHOE CITY ● TIMBERLAND
●
MI TT EL ST
R AS SE
ST R.
● ESPRIT ● MARC O’POLO ● ZARA ● DOUGLAS
BIRKENSTOCK ● AKTIV SCHUHE ● TAMARIS● NIVEA HAUS ●
LI N D EN
.
G LIN K A ST
SE
● FRANKONIA ● STEFANEL
SSE ENSTR A
F RI ED R IC H
R A SSE
MARINA RINALDI ● THOMAS SABO ● MAX MARA ● MOHR
WMF ● OUKAN ●
GEOX ●
KR O NE NS
R A SSE
Train Station
Hotel
A SSE
Hilton Hotel
E EN ST RA SS
STADTMITTE
● FRAAS
Department Store
● AMPELMANN
MO HRE NST R
K RO N
SSE
HAUSVOGTEIPLATZ
FASSBENDER ● & RAUSCH ● BANG & OLUFSEN
● MARC CAIN
STR A SSE
LEIPZIG ER ST
T R AS SE
J ÄG E R S T R A
EN S T R .
Galeries Lafayete Gendarmen Markt Quartier 205, 206, 207
BUCHERER ● ESCADA ● S TA U B E N S T R A
IS
● LE TANNEUR ● MAX MARA
JÄG E R S T R .
SELECTED STORES IN QUARTIER 205, 206, 207: H&M The Q Fassbender & Rausch Bang & Olufsen Etro Wolford Bally 7 For All Mankind Gant BRILLE 4 ●
F R A N ZÖ S
M AR KG R AF
.
A SSE
● WEMPE P.47 MEISSEN GALERIE ● CHARLOTTENSTRASSE ● H&M ● THE CORNER ● NAVYBOOT ● MONTBLANC CHE STR .
T RA SS E
TR ISCH E ST R
NESPRESSO ● SANDRO ● ROECKL ● KARL LAGERFELD ● SWAROVSKI ● CADENZZA ● LEISER ●
SSE
MS
FRANZÖSISCHE STR.
B EHR ENS T R
LLSTR A
HEL
P.44
HUGO BOSS ● PANDORA ● MAURICE LACROIX● EMPORIO ARMANI ●
AT Z
FR IE D RI C HS
WIL
F R A N ZÖ S
P.43
TR A SSE
B EB EL PL
● & OTHER STORIES Bebel Platz ● H&M ● GENTLEMEN’S CIRCLE ● COS ● MASSIMO DUTTI
AMPELMANN ● MEISSEN ● NAPAPIJIRI● BRANDENBURGER TOR MEISSEN● IITALLA ● APOTHEKE FRIEDRICHSTADT ● KPM ● LACOSTE ● BEHR ENS
DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM
O B ER WA
U N T ER D EN
TSSTR . U N I V E R S I TÄ
R EIC H S T
L EIPZIGER S
TR A SSE
KR AU SE NS
TR AS SE
88 | G U I D E
Alexanderplatz, Brückenstrasse, Linienstrasse, Neue Schönhauser Strasse & Rosenthaler Strasse ● MELAMPO LINIEN
STRASS E
P.43 ● RIANNA + NINA
T RT
COMME DES ● GARÇONS
ALT
ES
CH Ö
ACK STR .
LIN
IEN
ACE & ● PRO QM ● TATE P.46 HORIZN ● STUDIOS P.28 AG
MINTUS ● OUTLET ● ACNE
AU ER
MUL
PR EN ZL
NH
ALMST ADTSTR .
AU S
A KIND OF GUISE ●
AL
ER STR .
L EE
SOTO STORE ●
NOVACANE ●
AD ● DEERTZ
STR AS SE
P.79
.
A 0 RH H L P.4 CA O S E HU E F A ● H U G E SY L D N E C C ER S SC TH N EB A ● RE RR FE EDE ● B Y S ● R T FIT T R S T P EG E S W B UP L A A N N OU D / ● E L A F 7 N E J E BA ● FREITAG LAB BEN SHERMANN ● F R L R O Z 1 R / R P E UR ● A R I G E R T Y KO V I P E ● ● WRANGLER K A ● PORSCHE DESIGN Ö OAKLEY ● ● ● T G DR M ● TR . ● ELEVENPARIS S NEU ● ● ● SER ● CONVERSE E S C H Ö H AU N MICHAEL KORS ● ● HALLHUBER M Ü● STRELLSON SPORTSWEAR N Z S ● ULF HAINES Hackesche MB
XE
E
LU
SS RA
ST EL EB
KI
R. ST
UN
RA RS
-B
DE
TR
TO
AN
AS
OT
EX
SE
CAMP 4 ●
SE
AS
DE N Alexa Center EX
AN
SSE
SSE
TR A
TR A
ENS
RS
CK S
● MAMMUT
DE
DIR
A SS
AIR O LT
ES
TR
AS
SE
DI
V
E
RC
KS EN
ST RA
SSE
S T R A L A U R ST R .
E
ÜD
ER
ER
SS
BR
ST
MÄ
RK
CH
E
IS BERLIN STAR BEAUTY ● BERLIN STAR TAX FREE SHOP ●
E
R.
Levi’s Liebeskind Mammut Media Markt Mexx Palmers Lejaby Picard Pilgrim KLOSTERSTR. Roland-Schuhe Runners Point S Oliver Side Step Street One Swatch Tally Weijl Tamaris The Body Shop Tommy Hilfiger Triumph UFER RVero O L A N DModa WE WMF Yves Rocher Zara Zero
STR
SE
E
M
EX
TEN
TR AS
SS
RA
AM
AL
LIT
ENS
R.
RA
ST
ND
SE
● ULLA POPKEN ● AKTIV SCHUH
JÜD
ST
ST
TE LE
RS
TR
AS
UF
US
R ST
A
● TK MAXX ● SHOE CITY
SELECTED STORES IN ALEXA CENTER: Apriori Betty Barclay Biba Bijou Brigitte Camel Christ Colloseum Comma Deichmann Douglas EDC Esprit Eterna Fast Forward Fossil G-Star Gerry Weber H&M Jack Wolfskin Juwelier Classic Kookaï UR
ST
EI ÜH
SATURN ● PROMOD ● ESPRIT ● NEW YORKER ●
AL
A TH RA
BR
M
SE
S
OLYMP & HADES ●
PO
TZ LA HT
TZ LA
K
LA
SP AC
AL
PRIMARK ●
T Galeria KauÄof M W TS ● H E EC Y L E IL FR W KN ● IEB ● C&A L L A R ALEXANDERPLATZ
RA
OS GR
SE
ST
HL IE
HS
RO
F
R.
SELECTED STORES IN HACKESCHE HÖFE: Ampelmann Gretchen H&M Jost Nike Store Mac Mango MCM Oakley O-Store Peak Performance Profumo Sandro SE Stefanel AS Stones S T R S Trippen AU TH A R
SC FR
IC DR
S RA
● RENO
RP
A- K
AS
● DESIGUAL
● MYKITA
DE
U IS
TR
AN
- LO
-S T
H OC
ST
KS
SE
AUSBERLIN ●
S RA
EC
EX
NA
P.106
DZ
AL
AN
WA
SA
R
NEUES MUSEUM CH
TR AS
SE
HACKESCHER MARKT
S AR
UR
DST
AL M S TA
STR
LER
THA
SEN
RO
R.
● ADIDAS ● AMERIC AN APPARE L TOMMY ● HILFIGE R ● DENHAM
● NIKE
● COS ● MISS SIXTY
● & OTHER STORIE S ● WEEKD AY ● RESPEC TMEN ● 14OZ ● CAMPE R ● MUJI ● BUFFALO
Höfe
O R A N IE N B U R G E R ST
GS
TR
GESTALTEN SPACE ● MÖWE FROTTANA ●
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Department Store
Shopping Centre/Mall
U-Bahn
Train Station
Place Of Interest
S H O P | 89
DAY TRIP DESIGNER OUTLET BERLIN Discover over 90 top international brands, all reduced by up to 70%, as well as delicious dining options at Designer Outlet Berlin.
Designer Outlet Berlin, Alter Spandauer Weg 1, 14641 Wustermark, +49 (0)33 234 9040, designeroutletberlin.de
ELSTAL STATION
Designer Outlet Berlin
BERLIN CENTRAL STATION
B5 B5
B5
BERLIN
POTSDAM STATION
HOW TO GET THERE
From Potsdam: follow the Berlin ring road westward (A10), taking the junction for Berlin-Spandau B5. By Train and Bus From Berlin: take train RE4 towards Rathenow and get off at Elstal. In front of the station take bus 662 towards Wustermark/ Falkenrehde which takes
Outlet Village
Train Station
PERFECT DAY 11am Start the day with a splash of colour and a selection of vibrant prints at distinctive Spanish label Desigual. 12pm Admire the high-quality tailoring at Hugo Boss. Expect a perfect fit across the range.
P OT SDA M
By Car From Berlin: follow Heerstrasse on the B5 to Spandau, continue until you see the junction signposted Designer Outlet Berlin.
OPENING TIMES Monday-Thursday: 10am-7pm Friday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sunday and public holidays: closed
you to the main entrance of Designer Outlet Berlin. From Potsdam: take train RB21 towards Wustermark and get off at Priort. In front of the station take bus 662 towards Bahnhof Elstal which takes you to the main entrance of Designer Outlet Berlin. By Taxi From Berlin city centre: approximately 40 minutes. From Potsdam city centre: approximately 20 minutes.
Coach Station
1pm Take a break at San Francisco Coffee Company where rare and speciality coffees are sure to provide an afternoon pick-me-up. 3pm Go back to school with the contemporary college look embodied by Campus’s casual collections. 5pm End your day among the sparkling crystals at Swarovski. The label is known for its precision cuts and clarity as well as its elegant jewellery.
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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop
2. Claim
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.
Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
Berlin Schönefeld Airport Terminal A, Departures, landside, second foor, to the right of the café-bar Berlin Tegel Airport Terminal A, Service Centre; the Global Blue Refund Ofce is next to customs Downtown Berlin KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24 Galeria Kaufof, Alexanderplatz 9 (customer service centre, 5th foor) Dresden Airport Terminal B, opposite customs in the airport service area Leipzig Airport/Halle Central Terminal, Lufhansa ticket/information counter in the check-in area; the Global Blue Refund Ofce is opposite customs
Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Refund Ofces At all airport Refund Ofces, go to customs before check-in
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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 50: Luxe Leather
Ровная кожа
Салли МакИлхоун рассказывает об уважаемых немецких брендах, которые наверняка впечатлят поклонников кожгалантереи Кожевенное дело в Германии уходит корнями глубоко в историю. Бренд MCM стал востребованным на мировом уровне через 40 лет после своего основания, но теперь молодым трендсеттерам его рюкзаки кажутся чем-то само собой разумеющимся. Марка Bree ориентируется в большей степени на приверженцев традиций, у Ofermann есть базовая линия портфелей для современных интеллектуалов, а Liebeskind Berlin предлагает доступные кожаные вещи, вдохновленные подиумными трендами. Эксперты своего дела рассказали нам, почему Германия стала обязательным направлением для покупки сумок, кошельков и других вещей из кожи. Braun Büfel – это немецкий бренд кожгалантереи, который существенно влияет на модные процессы. Это один из брендов-долгожителей: он был основан 129 лет назад в городе Кирн, который славится своими кожевенными производствами. За долгие годы своего существования компания выстроила выдающуюся репутацию: с самого начала и до сих пор вся продукция этой марки создается только в Германии. Многие называют Италию лидером кожевенного дела, однако управляющий директор Braun Büfel Кристиане Брунк считает Германию равным по силе соперником за этот титул: «Прежде всего, в немецком обществе ценятся мастеровые профессии, в том числе обработка кожи. Во-вторых, мы всегда нацелены на совершенство во всех делах, это часть нашей globalblue.com
культуры. Если говорить о кожевенном деле, то и здесь мы натренированы оставаться педантичными, без права на ошибку. Поэтому мы уделяем много внимания качеству продукта». Бренд Braun Büfel стремится выделиться среди других брендов, поэтому он активно исследует рынок, чтобы заинтересовать современную аудиторию. «Мы уделяем особое внимание тому, что ищут сами покупатели. В женской коллекции мы начали работать с цветовыми сочетаниями, и это получило благоприятный отклик. Мы начали практиковать более креативный подход к типам и формам сумок», – объясняет Брунк. В число таких креативных моделей из текущей коллекции входит Fable
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с графическим лесным принтом в осенних тонах и с фирменным изображением быка, вплетенным в узор. Традиционалисты будут рады обнаружить и более классические модели, такие как дамская сумочка Ophelia и красный рюкзак Astrid. Какой бы стиль вы ни предпочитали, Braun Büfel – это выбор истинных ценителей кожи. Знатоки качественного дизайна наверняка заинтересуются знакомством с Gretchen. Этот бренд относительно недавно появился на рынке немецкой кожгалантереи: в этом году он празднует свое десятилетие. Однако за этот время ему удалось завоевать премию Red Dot Design Award, которую дизайнер и управляющий директор Анне-Кристин Шмитт называет «большой честью». Модель Tango Pouch, за которую бренд и был награжден, интерпретирует стиль сумок 1920-х годов, хотя выглядит при этом невероятно современно: «Аккуратная отделка и очерченная структура кожи усиливает форму капли и особенность этой модели. Возможность носить сумку на руке открывает новый подход к удобству ношения. Таким образом, Tango Pouch соединяет все лучшие качества Gretchen». Tango Pouch – это только одна из многочисленных чудесных сумок Grethen. Из коллекции осень/зима 2016 нам особенно нравится сумка с длинной ручкой Ebony, большая сумка Opal и рюкзак Calla. «Чувственная форма, вневременной дизайн и прекрасная кожа – вот что составляет суть Gretchen», – заявляет Шмитт. Познакомиться с новаторскими сумками этого бренда можно в фирменных магазинах в Берлине и Дюссельдорфе. Минималистам мы предлагаем сумки марки PB 0110. Три года назад эту компанию основал Филипп Брее – сын Вольфа Питера и Ренаты Брее, создателей бренда кожгалантереи Bree. Клатчи с заостренными углами, просторные сумки, аккуратные кошельки и рюкзаки под маркой PB 0110 создаются совместно с немецкими дизайнерами Кристианом Мецнером, Айзит Бостан и другими. Свой стиль компания описывает как интерес к «возлюбленным предметам» или «вещам, которые проявляют globalblue.com
индивидуальность по мере повседневного использования и с течением времени». Благодаря чистоте и простоте дизайна покупатели могут с легкостью сочетать эти вещи с чем угодно по своему усмотрению. PB 0110 заменяет привязку к сезонности новыми цветовыми сочетаниями для ключевых моделей. По словам Филиппа Брее интервью журналу Wallpaper, «хорошие вещи остаются в ходу ровно столько, сколько они востребованы». Процесс создания индивидуальных продуктов для немецких экспертов кожевенного дела – это все равно, что отдых для души, о чем легко можно догадаться по одному виду безукоризненно выполненных изделий. 56: Good Together
Идеальная пара
Карен Мьюнис рассказывает о самых интересных коллаборациях берлинских художников и модных дизайнеров История сотрудничества художников и модных дизайнеров насчитывает несколько десятилетий. Культовыми стали коллекции, которые Эльза Скиапарелли создала под влиянием Сальвадора Дали. И еще совсем недавно японский художник Такаши Мураками работал над принтами для знаменитых сумок Louis Vuitton. Примеров сотрудничества такого рода найдется немало и в Берлине. Однако именно к сезону осеньзима 2016/17 заметно возросло количество творческих союзов между художниками и дизайнерами. Берлинские бренды обращаются к художникам и наоборот, дизайнеры снимают кино о моде и используют фотографию, чтобы обнаружить новые возможности в своей сфере. Рисунки берлинского художника Кристофа Шемена, сделанные чернилами и карандашом, превратились в принты для мужской и женской коллекций Prada. Кристоф Шемен – художник-самоучка, фотограф и автор четырех книг, и в его портфолио есть еще одна модная коллаборация – с брендом Ann Demeulemeester. В принтах, разработанных для мужской коллекции Prada, прослеживаются отсылки к
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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истории искусства и европейской мифологии, в том числе к греческим богам и богиням. А женскую одежду украсили его работы, развивающие тему Французской революции. Однако в этом сезоне работы Шемена можно было увидеть не только на подиуме, но и в более располагающей к восприятию искусства обстановке. В редакции журнала 032c, которая находится в галерее St Agnes, в рамках проекта Keep Your Daisies for the Cold Days были выставлены рисунки художника и обширная переписка Миуччи Прада и директора по дизайну Prada Фабио Дзамбернарди. Кристоф Шемен и Prada – далеко не единственный творческий дуэт, стирающий границы между модой и искусством. Дизайнер марки Lala Berlin Лейла Пидайеш решила не проводить традиционный модный показ к сезону осень-зима 2016/17, а вместо этого представила коллекцию Persian Queen goes to Berlin в виде фильма. Премьера состоялась в просторной светлой галерее Me Collectors Room в берлинском районе Митте, которая принадлежит коллекционеру и эксперту Томасу Ольбрихту. Для этого места характерны
важные постоянные и временные экспозиции, как, например, недавняя ретроспектива американской художницы и фотографа Синди Шерман. Фильм, который для Lala Berlin снял Йонас Линдстрем, рассказывает о трех важных этапах из жизни женщины. «Я хотела создать нечто особенное. Нечто такое, что бы одновременно привлекло людей и эмоционально взволновало. – делится Пидайеш. – Для меня было важным сместить акцент с моды на объемное восприятие эмоций: видеть, слышать и чувствовать. У нас не было мест, как в кино, не было правил – только фильм о моде, чтобы дать аудитории почувствовать вкус и общее настроение коллекции осень-зима 2016». Звуковое сопровождение в Me Collectors Room соответствовало музыке в самом фильме: звучали волнующие песни любимого певца Пидайеш Джеспера Мунка, который и сам появляется в кадре. Пидайеш и Линдстрем сотрудничали и раньше, поэтому их новый совместный проект стал закономерным этапом работы над коллекцией. Она посвящена древней персидской столице Персеполису и включает в себя вещи с открытым плечом, объемные свитеры и узнаваемые принты по мотивам древних изображений. «Эта коллекция в самой красивой манере отражает мое происхождение и отношение к Ирану. Персидские корни вдохновляют меня», – делится дизайнер. Отношения художника и дизайнера имеют первостепенное значение для Джен Гилпин, дизайнера марки Don’t Shoot the Messenger (DSTM). Над всем визуальным оформлением бренда она работает со своим мужем – фотографом Максимом Баллестеросом. Во время подготовки лукбука к новому сезону Гилпин вдохновлялась творчеством режиссера-сюрреалиста 1940-х Майи Дерен: она была «очень сильной женщиной и создавала прекрасные образы в своих фильмах». Подобный интерес к сюрреализму порождает несколько странные визуальные решения: например, на некоторых фотографиях модель в черном обтягивающем наряде DSTM, напоминающем о фетишизме и в то же время отражающем дух бренда, сидит рядом с парой ног от манекена (что,
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в свою очередь, напоминает произведение модного фотографа Ги Бурдена). Декоративные вилы, лестницы-стремянки, фальшивые порезы на руках – все это образы явно не для слабонервных. Искусство в целом заметно влияет на работы Гилпин для DSTM: «Я намного больше вдохновляюсь искусством, чем модой. Одежда для меня – это как маленькие изобретения, которые можно носить». Бренд DSTM создал очень привлекательную эстетику – и твердо придерживается ее в этой полностью черной коллекции с большим количеством кожи и шелка. «Для меня черный – это средство, а само сообщение принимает форму очертаний, кроя и геометрии одежды», – делится Гилпин. Вместе со своей командой она сейчас работает над новой коллекцией и склоняется к внесезонному подходу. И именно искусство помогает ей создать эстетику, которая заставляет женщин чувствовать себя сильными, элегантными и чувственными. Неудивительно, что в таком городе, как Берлин, с его насыщенной культурной жизнью, границы жанров начинают размываться. «Искусство и мода идут рука об руку, и для меня между ними на самом деле нет принципиального разделения», – говорит Пидайеш. В обозримом будущем современные художники не перестанут влиять на модных дизайнеров: «Здесь очень интересная креативная среда, – делится Гилпин. – Мне нравится, что вокруг много активно работающих художников, они вдохновляют и напоминают о смысле творчества». 62: No Limits
Выйти за пределы Джоанна МакДжинн рассказывает о самых интересных дизайнерах Берлинской недели моды, которые в этом сезоне представили остро актуальные коллекции, не лишенные при этом некоторой изысканности Берлинская неделя моды укрепилась на международной модной сцене. В ее 19 сезоне 47 дизайнеров представили новые коллекции осень-зима 2016/17, а среди зрителей были замечены влиятельные знаменитости, в том globalblue.com
числе модели Джиджи Хадид и Каролина Куркова. Но несмотря на значительность этого модного события и присутствия коллекций с коммерческим потенциалом, Берлинская неделя моды продолжает исследовать необычные и экспериментальные явления. Следуя за духом самого города, этот фестиваль стремится сохранить атмосферу бунтарства. В числе бунтарей оказалась дизайнер Марина Хорманседер (Marina Hoermanseder): в ее женской коллекции идеально сочетаются удобная элегантность и «налет фетишизма», по ее собственному выражению. Марина Хорманседер родилась в Австрии, а училась в Школе дизайна Esmod Berlin. Возможность участвовать в насыщенной жизни креативного сообщества Берлина побудило ее остаться здесь: «Мне помогла атмосфера творческого плавильного котла. Моя карьера стартовала с возможности показать первую коллекцию на Берлинской неделе моды... Я не знаю, возможен ли такой шанс в каком-нибудь другом городе», – комментирует она. Модное сообщество тепло встретило собственный бренд Хорманседер в 2013 году. Ценителям стиля пришлись по душе ее юбки из кожаных ремешков, корсеты и декоративные пряжки: в ее стиле сквозила взрослая женственность. «Эксцентричная авангардная леди может выбрать юбку из ремешков, деловая женщина – шелковую блузку... а девочка-соседка – нашу толстовку Team MH», – объясняет дизайнер. Работая над коллекцией осень-зима 2016/17, Марина Хорманседер ориентировалась на Амелию Эрхарт – первую женщинупилота, самостоятельно преодолевшую Атлантику. «Меня вдохновили ее сила, мужество и независимость. Эта коллекция – о незримой женственности и женщинах, которые преодолевают собственные пределы возможного». Остались и узнаваемые элементы стиля Хорманседер – кожаные ремешки и пряжки из розового золота. «Ортопедические элементы 18 века» стали «неотъемлемым элементом этой коллекции», по собственному выражению дизайнера. Со всей очевидностью внимание международной общественности привлекло искусное сочетание пудрового, бледного синего, мягкого абрикосового и теплого шоколадного оттенков и лаковой кожи
с четкими контурами, а также новая серия аксессуаров. Теперь Марина Хорманседер собирается выходить на американский рынок и планирует показ в Нью-Йорке. Андрогинный образ поселился на подиумах многих модных недель в мире. Но в Берлине эта эстетика появилась задолго до адаптации стиля унисекс мировыми производителями. Эту тему настойчиво развивает дизайнер Сара Эффенбергер (Sarah Efenberger), к творчеству которой стоит присмотреться. Она окончила Берлинский университет искусств, и редактор Vogue Germany Кристиана Арп выбрала именно ее коллекцию Fomme для показа на Vogue Salon. По словам Эффенбергер, вместо «попыток достичь нейтральной, андрогинной формы, которая отрицает телесные различия мужчин и женщин», она создает мужскую одежду «в очень нежном и женственном ключе». При этом чувственные и эффектные предметы мужского гардероба можно сшить на заказ и для женщин. К этому сезону Эффенбергер включила в свою коллекцию просторные пальто в клетку с бантами и изогнутыми лацканами, подчеркивающие грудь и бедра блейзеры, шифоновые блузы и ниспадающие широкие брюки – все приглушенных оттенков серого, бургундского, черного и ледяного синего. «Мне, как покупательнице женского пола, часто хочется приобрести вещи из мужских коллекций. Но, как правило, я не подхожу для них», – рассказывает дизайнер о предпосылках своего творчества. В итоге она раскрыла новый подход к гендерному смешению в одежде. В этом сезоне заметно проявилась склонность дизайнеров к интимности: многие предпочли более закрытые презентации и инсталляции традиционным показам. В частности, ценителей моды впечатлила коллекция Хиена Ли, берлинца лаосского происхождения, представленная вдали от главных подиумов на Berliner Mode Salon. Первый профессиональный опыт Хиен Ле получил в Антверпене у Вероник Бранкиньо, а в 2010 представил и собственную линию одежды. Для коллекции осень-зима 2016/17 характерна эстетика унисекс: лаконичные однотонные вещи для мужчин и женщин, по его словам, «очищены до основы, блеска и
PHOTO: STEVEN KOHLSTOCK
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ясности с особым вниманием к проработке деталей». Ле сосредоточен на спокойном плавном крое, тщательно продуманных элементах и ясной палитре с акцентом на синий, белый и красный. Примером этого могут послужить аккуратные вставки и удлиненные рукава на весьма броских предметах одежды в полоску и клетку. Источником вдохновения для Хиена Ли в этом сезоне послужили щеголи (sapeur пофранцузски) из Конго: эти модники сделали показной дендизм своим образом жизни и одевались в качественную и яркую одежду. Качество, происхождение материалов и устойчивость стали также важной частью работы Хиена Ле, и все его коллекции шьются исключительно в Германии. «У моего покупателя нет возраста. Им может быть кто угодно, если он или она ценит свою одежду, любит хорошее качество и чувствует себя комфортно», – комментирует дизайнер. Это полностью отражает и дух Берлинской недели моды, с ее стремлением уйти от помпы в пользу внимания к деталям и дизайну.
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90: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
美文翻译 50: Luxe Leather 奢华皮具 德国的高端皮具一定会让皮具爱好者一见倾 心，Sally McIlhone娓娓道来 德国皮具制造业有着辉煌的历史。在其成立以来的
40年间，MCM已经发展为全球范围内备受喜爱的 奢侈品牌，背着该品牌背包的时尚弄潮儿随处可 见。Bree作为专业箱包品牌，更受传统人士青 睐，Offermann简约风公文包则为现代职场人士而 globalblue.com
打造，而Liebeskind Berlin从时尚秀场中寻找灵 感，针对各类人群推出价格亲民的箱包。我们邀请了 来自德国各地的专家，为我们解释德国何以能成为 选购手袋、钱包和皮具的不二去处。 德国皮具品牌Braun Büffel在时尚界牢牢占据 着一席之地。129年前，该品牌创立于以皮革生产而 闻名的Kirn镇，如今它仍然在德国本土制造产品。 它是最具生命力的德国品牌之一，在百年风雨历程 中斩获了无数赞誉。虽然有很多人将意大利视为首 屈一指的奢侈皮具制造大国，Braun Büffel总经理 Christiane Brunk却认为德国也同样配得上这个称 号。“首先，在德国，皮革制造这类职业受到全社会的 尊重，”她解释道。“其次，无论做什么我们都追求完 美，这是我们文化的一部分。皮革制造要求精准，失 之毫厘谬以千里，我们都为此经受了严格的训练。我 们非常注重产品的质量。” Braun Büffel开展了大量的市场研究，希望借 此从其他皮具品牌当中脱颖而出，赢得当代顾客的 青睐。Brunk表示：“我们重点关注客人的需求。我 们试着在女士箱包色彩方面采用更加大胆的设计理 念，并且获得了积极的反馈。于是，我们又在箱包种 类和外形上融入了更多创意。”在当前推出的作品当 中，最富创意的当属Fable系列，森林主题的印花搭 配明亮清澈的秋天色调，图案中还融入了品牌的水 牛标志。喜欢传统风格的人士会欣喜地发现很多经 典款，例如黑色的Ophelia手袋、邮筒红Astrid背包 等。无论您的风格多么迥异，您总能在Braun Büffel 找到心仪的作品。 Gretchen一定不会让设计爱好者失望。作为皮 具界的新星，这个刚刚迈入第十个年头的品牌已将 红点设计大奖（Red Dot Design Award）收入囊 中，品牌设计师兼总经理Anne-Christin Schmitt 称之为“至高的荣誉”。获奖作品Tango Pouch令人 联想起上世纪二十年代的手袋，但又流露着奇妙的 现代风格。“皮革形成的剖面结构和做工精细的装饰 勾勒出水滴状的特殊设计，”Schmitt介绍道。“人们 可以将手袋悬挂在手臂上，体现出其便于携带的独 特性。Tango Pouch可以说把Gretchen的品牌优点 发挥到了极致！” Tango Pouch仅仅是Gretchen旗下众多靓丽 手袋中的一款。2016年秋冬季，品牌新推出的 Ebony肩包、Opal行李袋和Calla背包更是令人欲罢 不能。“充满美感的外形、经典的设计和美丽的皮革 是一款Gretchen包的要素，”Schmitt表示。更多 Gretchen的创新款在其柏林和杜塞尔多夫的品牌 店有售。 对于极简风格爱好者来说，PB 0110堪称完美 的选择。它由德国皮具品牌Bree创始人Wolf Peter 与Renate Bree之子Philipp Bree于三年前创 立。PB 0110与Christian Metzner 和Ayzit Bostan
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56: Good Together 珠联璧合 柏林的创作界充满活力，激发时装设计师和艺术家 在本季开展激动人心的跨界合作。Karen Munnis 报道 几十年来，艺术家和时装设计师尝试着通过各种方 式进行合作。远有设计师Elsa Schiaparelli的诸多 知名作品受到西班牙超现实主义画家萨尔瓦多·达 利（Salvador Dalí ）的启发，近有日本艺术家村上隆 （Takashi Murakami）为路易威登（Louis Vuitton）手袋设计印花和图案。虽然这种跨界合作 在柏林屡见不鲜，2016/17秋冬季却不同寻常地涌 现出许多艺术家和设计师的联姻。柏林的时装品牌 纷纷与艺术家展开合作，设计师们也通过拍摄时尚 电影或摄像的形式为整个行业带来新气象。 其中最值得一提的是，柏林艺术家Christophe Chemin的墨水和铅笔插画跃然于普拉达（Prada） 的男装和女装上。Chemin是一位自学成才的艺术 家、摄影师和四本书的作者，他曾与时尚品牌 Ann Demeulemeester合作。他为普拉达男装设计印花， 取灵感于艺术史和包括希腊诸神等的欧洲神话，而 女装上的印花则深受法国大革命的影响。 除了时装秀台上的作品，人们还可以在艺术氛 围更加浓厚的展览中欣赏到Chemin的时尚印花。 他创作的插画以及大量与Miuccia Prada和普拉达 设计总监Fabio Zambernardi的沟通信件作为“冬日 雏菊自芬芳”（Keep Your Daisies for the Cold Days）展览的一部分在柏林St Agnes中心的032c 杂志总部展出。 Chemin和普拉达不是唯一一对尝试跨界合作 的搭档。2016/17秋冬季，Lala Berlin的设计师 Leyla Piedayesh摈弃了传统的T台走秀，选择了在 德国柏林收藏家美术馆（Me Collectors Room）以 时尚电影的形式展示自己的时装系列“波斯女王来到 柏林”（Persian Queen goes to Berlin）。这家四面 白墙的美术馆位于柏林中心区（Mitte），归艺术收
藏家和专家Thomas Olbricht所有，承办各大临时 和永久性展览，近期还举办了美国摄影师Cindy Sherman的作品回顾展。 Lala Berlin的时尚电影由Jonas Lindstroem 执导，讲述了一位女性生命中的三个阶段。“我希望 呈现与众不同的东西，让观众们身临其境，同时产生 强烈的共鸣，”Piedayesh如是说道。“我希望人们从 三个维度感知时尚——视觉、听觉和感觉。没有座 位，没有条条框框，只有一部时尚电影，让观众对我 们的2016秋冬系列有个大致的体验。”柏林收藏家 美术馆的音效为影片配乐锦上添花，Piedayesh最 喜爱的歌手Jesper Munk为影片献唱，直击心灵深 处的歌声贯穿了整部电影。 Piedayesh与Lindstroem曾经有过合作经历， 本次再度携手可谓珠联璧合。时装系列的灵感来源 于古代波斯的首都波斯波利斯（Persepolis），主打 单肩造型、三维编织和借鉴了古代生物的全新标志 性印花。“这个系列完美体现了我的成长背景以及我 与伊朗的关联。所有灵感都可以追溯到我的波斯血 统，”这位设计师表示。
PHOTO: MAXIME BELLESTEROS
等德国设计师合作，创作棱角分明的手袋、大容量 手提袋、时尚钱包和背包，自诩关注“最心爱的物品” 或“经过日常使用和时间洗礼而拥有独特品质的物 品”。因此，手袋的设计都非常简单明了，便于自由搭 配。品牌不推出季节性系列，而是注重增加色彩组 合，建立核心产品组合。正如Philipp Bree在近期 接受Wallpaper杂志采访时所说，“只要有需求，便 是好款式。” 许多德国皮具品牌众多，每一款产品的创造都 发自内心的热爱，而德国各地精品店所陈设的每一 件作品都可谓精工细作，完美无瑕。
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作，品牌的所有作品中都可以看到她丈夫拍摄的图 片。她的秋冬季作品从上世纪四十年代超现实主义 制片人Maya Deren身上获得灵感，“这位坚强的女 性在电影中创作了许多美好的图像”。她通过另类的 搭配向超现实主义致敬，人们可以看到模特穿着 DSTM标志性的、带有恋物癖倾向的黑色紧身衣， 坐在一对塑料大腿模型旁边（令人不禁回想起时装 摄影师Guy Bourdin的作品）。由巨大的长柄叉子 和梯子作为支撑物，手上还有自己造成的不慎刺 伤——胆小的人就不要看了。 艺术深刻地影响着Gilpin在DSTM的时装设 计。“艺术带给我的灵感要比时尚界的灵感有趣的 多。时装的创作在我看来犹如一个个可以穿戴的发 明，”她表示。DSTM已经形成了独特而固定的审美 品位——以皮革和丝绸制作而成的全黑的时装系 列。“对我来说，黑色是一种媒介，与线条、剪裁和服 装结构组成我想传达的信息，”Gilpin解释道。该团 队正着手设计一个新的系列，并向无季节的风格靠 拢，用艺术创造出令女性感到强大、优雅而妩媚的时 装。 对于柏林这种以浓厚创作氛围而闻名的城市而 言，艺术和时尚之间的界限渐渐模糊，这实在不足为 奇。“艺术和时尚殊途同归，对我来说没有明确的界 限，”Piedayesh表示。艺术家对时装设计师的影响 还将继续。“这里的艺术世界妙趣横生，”Gilphin说 道。“我喜欢身边有艺术家，他们能给我带来无限灵 感，告诉我创作背后的意义。”
62: No Limits 创意无止境
本季的柏林时装周既展示了前卫新潮的设计，又不 乏精致高雅的元素。Joanna McGinn采访了一些最 具看点的设计师 已经迈入第19季的柏林时装周在国际时装界牢牢占 据着一席之地。2016/17秋冬季时装周展示了47位 设计师的最新作品，引得超模Gigi Hadid和 Karolina Kurkova等名流竞相观摩。 虽然柏林时装周一如这座城市名满天下，而且 秀场上不乏商业化气息浓厚的作品，但这场时尚盛 宴本质上是叛逆的，人们时常可以看到不同寻常、剑 走偏锋的设计。 设计师Marina Hoermanseder就是这样一股 独树一帜的力量，她推出的女装完美融合了衣物的 优雅气质和她所谓的“恋物”风格。奥地利人 Hoermanseder毕业于Esmod Berlin设计学校，有 globalblue.com
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
艺术家和设计师的琴瑟和鸣还见于Don’t Shoot the Messenger（简称DSTM）设计师 Jen Gilpin与其丈夫、摄影师Maxime Ballesteros的合
感于柏林强烈的创作氛围，她选择留在这座城市。 她表示：“这里犹如一个创作群体的大熔炉，让我受 益匪浅。创作生涯之初就能在柏林时装周上展示我 的处女作……我不知道还有其他哪个地方能够给我 这样的机会。” 2013年创立品牌以来，Hoermanseder以极具 成熟女性特色的皮带裙、塑性紧身内衣和搭扣装饰 而享誉时尚界。“想标新立异的前卫女性可以选择皮 带裙，白领一族可以选择丝绸衬衣……而邻家女孩 不妨考虑一下我们的Team MH针织套衫，”这位设 计师介绍道。 2016/17秋冬季，她从第一位独自飞越大西洋的 女性飞行员Amilia Earhart身上获得灵感。“她的勇 气、力量和独立精神令人振奋，”Hoermanseder表 示。“这是一个展现女性低调魅力的系列，向所有超 越自我的女性致敬。” 品牌的标志性元素是皮带和玫瑰金搭扣，“18世 纪的矫形外科元素”也是品牌的特 色。Hoermanseder表示这些都是“时装中不可或缺 的一部分”。她巧妙地糅合了嫩粉、浅蓝、柔和的杏黄 和温暖的朱古力色，配以硬边漆皮和皮雕，以及全新 设计的配饰，绝对能吸引国际买家。她也开始放眼美
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中一位在圈内引起轰动的是老挝出生，柏林长大的 Hien Le。他选择在柏林时装沙龙（Berliner Mode Salon）主秀台之外展示自己的作品。 Le在2010年推出自己设计的作品，随 Veronique Branquinho在安特卫普初试牛刀。他的 2016/17秋冬系列散发着中性风格，男装和女装均 使用清爽的对比色调，用他的话来说就是“回归基本 要素：时尚干练，对细节精益求精”。Le的作品剪裁 精良，注重细节，例如皱褶和长袖，搭配大胆的条纹 和格子呢上下装，海军蓝、白色和西红柿红的配色干 净明快。他作品灵感来自刚果的沙皮士（sapeurs）， 时髦考究、色彩鲜艳、剪裁得当的时装是这群优雅 男士的日常着装选择。 对于Le来说，质量、产地和持续性缺一不可，他 的所有作品都坚持德国制造。“我的顾客没有年龄的 界定，他们都热爱自己穿着的衣服，青睐优质而舒适 的服装。”专注细节和设计，回避张扬，这也是本届柏 林时装周的真实写照。 90: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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国市场，正紧锣密鼓地计划着登台亮相纽约时装 周。 雌雄共体的装扮在全世界许多时装周上屡见不 鲜，但早在全球服装公司开始大肆生产中性服装之 前，柏林时装周上就已经刮起了“中性风”。本次以此 为主题进行创作的设计师是引人瞩目的Sarah Effenberger。毕业于柏林艺术大学的她赢得德国版 Vogue编辑Christiane Arp的垂青，受邀在Vogue Salon时尚沙龙秀场展示中性时装系列Fomme。这 位设计师表示，她没有“通过否认男性和女性体型上 的差异创作出毫无特征、雌雄共体的作品”，而是设 计出“非常纤弱和女性化”的男装。其性感花哨的男 装也可以为女性量身定制。 Effenberger的时装系列主打饰有蝴蝶结和弧 形领的大号格子呢大衣，突出腰部和臀部的轻便短 外套，雪纺衬衣和宽松的阔腿裤，均采用灰色、酒 红、黑色和冰蓝等暗沉的颜色。当问到灵感来源时， 她表示：“作为女性顾客，我一直想购买男装，但多数 情况下这些男装又都不适合我。”于是乎，她自己着 手设计中性服装。 这个季度格外低调，一些设计师采取更加私人 的形式，摈弃传统的走秀，转而选择演示或展览。其 globalblue.com
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منصات العرض التقليديّة .من الص ّممي الميّزين ،Hoermansenderإنّها “جزء أساس من الجموعة” .تزج مغايرة عن ّ هذا الوسم ،الص ّمم البليني الولود ف ل ُوس ،Hien Leالذي بتف ّوق الزهر الباهت والزرق الشاحب والبتقال الصف ّر الناعم منصات العرض الساسيّة ف Berliner اللمع البارز والحفور وقد قدّم مجموعته بعيدا ً عن ّ وألوان الشوكولتة الدافئة بالجلد ّ .Mode Salon أضافت م“ ّخرا ً تشكيلة جديدة من الكسسوارات ،فلفتت الن”ار أطلق Leمجموعته سنة 2010بعد أن ط ّور مهارته ف عاليّاً ووضعت الوليات التّحدة الميكيّة نصب أعينها ويجري التحضي ٍ أنتويرب مع .Veronique Branquinhoتتمتّع مجموعته لعرض ف نيويورك. منصات عرض لخريف/شتاء 2016-2017بذوقٍ ثنائ الجندر؛ تتمثّل اللبس ظهر السلوب الختلط (رجالً ونسا ًء) عل عدّة ّ النسائيّة والرجاليّة لديه بقطعٍ مصقولة أحاديّة اللوان يصفها كـ ف أسابيع الوضة حول العال ،لكن برز السلوب الثنائ ف برلي “تبسيط للوصول إل الساس :أسلوب ُمتقن ون”يف مع الهتمم قبل أن تعتمد الشكات العاليّة اللبس الحاديّة للرجال والنساء ٍ القصات الخفيّة بوقت طويل .ومن السمء الجديرة بالذكر ف هذا الطار Sarahبالتفاصيل الدقيقة” .تركّز مجموعة Leعل ّ Effenbergerالتي التقطت الفكرة وحلّقت بها .اختارت مح ّررة اللتوية والتفاصيل الصغية ،عل سبيل الشبك الناعم والكمم مجلّة Vogueألانيا Christiane Arpهذه الطالبة التخ ّرجة الطويلة مع قطعٍ فرديّة أخرى مقلّمة بخطوط عريضة أو منقوشة بربّعات ومجموعة ناصعة من ألوان الكحل والبيض والحمر. من جامعة برلي للفنون لتعرض مجموعتها الو ّحدة للجنسي ِ استوحيت الجموعة من رجال الكونغو التأنّقي وركّزت عل Fommeف عرض .Vogue Salonوتشح الص ّممة أنّها بدلً الخياطة المتازة النفّذة بألوان تبهج القلب. التوصل إل تصاميم حياديّة مختلطة تنفي اختلف من “محاولة ّ يول Leأهميّة قصوى للجودة والصدر والستدامة ويصنع أشكال الجسم بي الرجل والرأة” تص ّمم للرجال “بطريقة دقيقة مجموعته ف ألانيا .يقول“ :ل عمر محدّد لزبون ،إنّه الشخص وأنثويّة للغاية” .ويكن أن تصبح تصاميمها الرجاليّة الدقيقة ويحب ُحسن الجودة ويرتاح بلبسه”. الذي يدرك قيمة ما يرتدي الزخرفة ملبس نسائيّة مص ّممة بحسب الطلب. ّ تشمل مجموعة Effenbergerمعاطف فضفاضة منقوشة وهذه صورة أخرى عن أسبوع برلي للموضة ،حيث يُفضّ ل التصميم والتفاصيل عل الجواء الصاخبة. بالربّعات و ُعقَدا ً منسدلة وط ّيات صد ٍر معكوفة بالضافة إل ستات ضيّقة لبراز الخص والرداف وقمصان من الشيفون When You Shop The World, وساويل واسعة القدام ،كلّها بألوان هادئة مشتقّة من الرمادي Shop Tax Free: 90 والبنفسجي والسود والزرق .لدى س“الها عن نقطة انطلق تصاميمها تقول“ :ف كثي من الحيان ،أرغب كمستهلكة أن أشتي عندما تتس ّوق حول العال ،تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة ملبس رجاليّة ،لكن غالباً ما ل تناسب مقاس .لذلك فكّرت بابتكار تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون ملبس مختلطة للثني. وأت هذا الوسم متواضعاً عن قصد ،إذ فضّ ل بعض الص ّممي دفع الضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من 300,000متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال. الحاف”ة عل الحميميّة من خلل عرض الزياء بطرق مختلفة فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون كل سنة؟ ما دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. تس ّوق .1 الخاص أينم تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة ّ بغلوبل بلو Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت. أطلب .2 ف طريق العودة إل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد الخاصة بنا. مكاتب الستداد ّ للتّصال: PHOTO: PASCAL GAMBARTE
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مشتياتك .يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري .ف بعض الطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي.
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ذلك آلهة اليونان ،ف حي تتأث ّر نقوشه للملبس النسائيّة بالثورة الفرنسيّة. منصات عرض الزياء ،برزت نقوش Chemin بالضافة إل ّ ف أكث من ساحة ٍ فنيّةُ .عرِضت أعمله وباكورة تعاونه الوثيق مع Miuccia Pradaو،Fabio Zambernardiwereمدير التصميم لدى ،Pradaف مق ّر مجلّة 032cف صالة St Agnes ف برلي كجزء من ٍ عرض ُس ّم َي بـ Keep Your Daisies for .the Cold Days يوسعان لكن Cheminو Pradaليسا الوحيدين اللّذين ّ نطاقهم .لوسم خريف/شتاء ،2016-2017اختارت Leyla ،Piedayeshمص ّممة Lala Berlinأل تُجري عرض أزياء تقليديّا ً ،بل فضّ لت عرض مجموعتها Persina Queen goes to Berlinكفيلم أزياء ف .Me Collectors Roomيقع هذا العرض الواسع ذو الجدران البيضاء ف Mitteويلكه الخبي وهاوي تجميع القطع الفنيّة .Thomas Olbrichtيقيم فيه معارض مؤقّتة ودائة بالغة الهميّة ،منها مؤ ّخرا ً معرض أعمل الص ّورة الميكيّة .Cindy Sherman يروي فيلم Lala Berlinللزياء ،من إخراج Jonas قصة امرأة ف ثلث مراحل من حياتها .تقول ّ ،Lindstroem “ :Piedayeshأردت شيئاً مختلفاً ،بحيث يلفت انتباه الناس ويكون عاطفيّاً ف الوقت عينه .أردت أن أنقل التكيز من الزياء إل مستوى عاطفي ثل ّث البعاد؛ لنى ونسمع ونشعر .ل يكن هناك من مقاعد ول قواعد ،بل مج ّرد فيلم أزياء يعطي الجمهور لحة عن مجموعة خريف/شتاء 2016وطابعها العا ّ“ ”.لعبت الصوتيّات ف Me Collectors Roomدورا ً بارزا ً ف الفيلم الذي تسي أحداثه عل أنغا“ Jesper Munkالرائعة ،وهو الغ ّني الفضّ ل لدى .Piedayesh سبق وتعاون Piedayeshو ،Lindstroemلذا جاءت شاكتهم ف مكانها ف هذه الجموعة الستوحاة من ،Persepolisالعاصمة الفارسيّة القدية .وتشمل الجموعة تصاميم ٍ بكتف واحد وقطعاً محبوكة بطريقة ثلثيّة البعاد ونقشاً ٍ مخلوقات من عصو ٍر مضت .تقول جديدا ً فريدا ً من نوعه قائاً عل الص ّممة ف هذا الصدد“ :تعكس هذه الجموعة خلفيّتي وعلقتي كل مصادر إلهامي إل جذوري بحق .وتعود ّ بإيران بطريقة جميلة ّ الفارسيّة”. ترى ،Jen Gilpinمص ّممة علمة )DSTM) Don’t ،Shoot the Messengerأ ّن علقة الص ّمم/الف ّنان أساسيّة إذ تتعاون بدورها مع زوجها الص ّمم Maxime Ballesteros الخاص بالخريف/الشتاء، ف كافّة ُص َو ِر علمتها .لكُتيّت مجموعتها ّ استوحت Gilpinمن صانعة الفل“ السياليّة ف الربعينات Maya Derenالتي كانت “امرأة قويّة للغاية وقدّمت مشاهد خلبة ف أفلمها” .تشمل هذه النزعة إل السياليّة بعض العناص غي التّسقة ،عل سبيل عارضة أزياء ترتدي ملبس داخليّة مغرية سوداء ،جالس ًة بالقرب من رجل تثا ٍللعرض اللبس ) ما يذكّرنا بأعمل مص ّور الزياء .)Guy Bourdinتستخد“ كشعار مذرا ًة كل ذلك لحبّي الخارج ضخمة وسلّمً وث ّة جرح زائف ف اليدّ؛ ّ عن الألوف. للف ّن أثر كبي عل تصاميم Gilpinلعلمة .DSTM تشح قائلة“ :أول اهتمماً أكب لصادر اللها“ ف الف ّن منه ف الزياء .أرى اللبس البتكرة كاختاعات صغية قابلة للرتداء”.
فتمسكت به ،وكانت وجدت DSTMأسلوباً جمليّاً تعتمده ّ النتيجة مجموعة سوداء بالكامل تشمل الجلد والحرير .تقول “ :Gilpinبالنسبة ل ،الّلون السود هو الوسيلة وت ُتجم الرسالة وقصاتها وأشكالها” .يعمل الفريق حاليّاً من خلل خطوط اللبس ّ عل مجموعة جديدة ويعتمد مقاربة غي موسميّة مستخدماً أسلوب ينح الرأة الشعور بأنّها قويّة وأنيقة ومرهفة الف ّن لبتكار ٍ الحساس. ف مدينة عل غرار برلي مشهورة بجالها البتكاري ،ل عجب أن تبدأ الحدود بالزوال .تقول “ :Piedayeshالف ّن والزياء متابطان .بالنسبة ل ،ل حدود بينها ”.ويبدو أنّه ف الستقبل يخف اللها“ الذي يقدّمه الف ّنانون لص ّممي الزياء. القريب ،لن ّ أحب إحاطة وتقول “ :Gilpinعال الفنون مثي للهتم“ هناّ . الف ّناني ب ،فهم يلهمونني ويذكّرونني بالعنى الحقيقي للبتكار”. No Limits :62
بل حدود
شهد أسبوع برلي للموضة هذا الوسم تصاميم مبتكرة تنضوي عل بعض العناص التكلّفة .وكان لـ Joanna McGinn حديث مع ألع السمء عل القائة الن ،وف الوسم التاسع عش لسبوع برلي للموضة ،ثبّت هذا الحدث مكانته عل ساحة الزياء العاليّة .شمل عرض خريف/شتاء 2016-2017أعمل 47مص ّممً وجذب مشاهي ذائعي الصيت أمثال العارضتي Gigi Hadidو.Karolina Kurkova صحيح أ ّن أسبوع برلي للموضة بات حدثاً راسخاً ،وقد عرض بعض الجموعات التجاريّة ،لك ّنه عل غرار الدينة بح ّد ذاتها، يحتضن التصاميم الخارجة عن الألوف والبعيدة عن الضواء حس التم ّرد. محافظاً عل ّ من الص ّممي الذين أدخلوا نفحة من العصيان إل أسبوع الوضة Marina Hoermanseder ،وذلك من خلل ملبس نسائيّة وازنت بامتياز بي الناقة العمليّة وما تس ّميه “لسة من الشهوة” .بعد أن تعلّمت ف كليّة التصميم ،Esmod Berlin اختارت الص ّممة النمساويّة برلي كمق ّر لها ،ويعود ذلك جزئيّاً إل الجتمع البتَ ِكر بق ّوة .تقول ف هذا الصدد“ :استفدت كثيا ً من تواجدي ف بوتقة من العقول البتكرة وكانت نقطة النطلق عرض أ ّول مجموعة ل ف أسبوع برلي للموضة ...ل أعلم إن كنت لحظيت بالفرصة نفسها ف مدينة أخرى”. منذ إطلق علمتها التجاريّة سنة ،2013يقصدها محبّو الوضة لشاء تناني جلديّة من الحزمة وكورسيهات مقولبة وقطعاً مزخرفة بالشابك تُبِز النوثة الناضجة .قد ترتدي سيّدة جريئة مبتكرة ت ّنورة الحزمة وتختار سيّدة العمل قميصاً حريريّاً ...ف حي تنتقي الشابّة ف النزل الجاور أوفارول .”Team MH ف مجموعة خريف/شتاء ،2016-2017استوحت من ،Amilia Earhartأ ّول طيّارة تقود منفرد ًة فوق الطلس. تشح قائلة“ :ألهمتني ق ّوتها وشجاعتها واستقلليّتها .تتمحور الجموعة حول النوثة ال ُستهانة والنساء اللّوات يتخطّي حدوده ّن”. تتميّز علمتها بالحزمة الجلديّة والشابك الذهبيّة الزهريّة وتشمل أيضاً “عناص مقولبة من القرن الثامن عش ”.بحسب globalblue.com
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ترجمة باللغة العربيّة Luxe Leather :50
جلو ٌد فاخرة
سيُع َجب محبّو السلع الجلديّة ،ل محال ،بالعلمات التجاريّة الفاخرة ف ألانيا ،تقرير Sally McIlhone تتمتّع ألانيا بتاري ٍخ باهر ف مجال السلع الجلديّة .ذاع صيت ٍ صعيد عالي ف السنوات العلمة التجاريّة الفاخرة MCMعل الربعي الاضية منذ تأسيسها وحمل الشباب الحدّدون للموضة الختصة بالحقائب حقائب الظهر من ابتكارها .تصنع الشكة ّ Breeحقائب للتقليديّي ،ف حي تقدّم Offermannتشكيلة من حقائب الستندات للمهنيّي العصيّي وتوفّر Liebeskind Berlinخيار ٍ منصات العرض وبأسعا ٍر معقولة ات مستوحاة من ّ للجميع .فهنا تشح مجموعة متن ّوعة من الخباء من أنحاء البلد كيف أضحت ألانيا الكان القصود لشاء الحقائب والحافظ والسلع الجلديّة. مختصة بالسلع Braun Büffelعلمة تجاريّة ألانيّة ّ الجلديّة ،لها بصمة ف عال الوضة من دون أدن ّ تأسست منذ شكّ . 129سنة ف ،Kirnوهي بلدة شهية بصناعة الجلود ،وما زالت تصنع منتجاتها ف ألانيا حتّى يومنا هذا .إنّها من أعرق العلمات التجاريّة ف البلد وقد كسبت سمعة ممتازة عب السني .قد يعتب البعض إيطاليا النتج الساس للسلع الجلديّة ،لكن تشح مديرة العلمة Christiane Brunkموازاة ألانيا لها ف التنافس عل اللّقب .تقول“ :أ ّولً ،يقدّر الجتمع اللان العمل اليدويّة عل كل ما نفعل ،إنّه سبيل صناعة الجلود .ثانياً ،نسعى إل الكمل ف ّ جزء من ثقافتنا .ف ما يتعلّق بصناعة الجلود ،نتد ّرب عل الدقّة من دون ترك أي مجال للخطأ .ونول الجودة أهميّة مطلقة”. تسعى Braun Büffelإل التميّز عن العلمات الخرى موسع ف السوق ّ الختصة بالسلع الجلديّة من خلل إجراء بحث ّ ل“من جذب الزبائن العا”ين .تشح “ :Brunkنركّز كثيا ً عل ما يبحث عنه الزبون .وجدنا استجابة جيّدة ج ّدا ً ف التشكيلة النسائيّة عندما بدأنا اعتمد الجرأة ف اللوان .كم أطلقنا العنان للبتكار ف أنواع الحقائب وأشكالها ”.من الساليب الكث ابتكارا ً ف الجموعة الحاليّة ،تشكيلة Fableالتي ت“ ّم نقوشاً حرجيّة بألوانٍ خريفيّة زاهية ويظهر الجاموس وهو شعار العلمة ضمن النقش .وسيسعد التقليديّون لعرفة توافر أساليب أكث كلسيكيّة عل سبيل حقيبة اليد السوداء Opheliaوحقيبة الظهر بالحمر الناري .Astridمهم كان ذوقك Braun Büffel ،هي من دون أدن ّ شك خيار هواة الجلود الواسعي الطّلع. ول ب ّد لحبّي التصميم من التع ّرف إل .Gretchenإنّها علمة جديدة نسبيّاً عل ساحة السلع الجلديّة ،تحتفل بعيدها العاش هذا العام وقد حظيت بجائزة Red Dot Design ،Awardالمر الذي تصفه الديرة Anne-Christin Schmittبـ “الشف العظيم” .يتّسم التصميم الرابح “Tango ”Pouchبأسلوب حقائب الي ّد ف العشينات مع الحافظة عل إطللة عصيّة للغاية .تقول “ :Schmittتُبِز الزخرفة العفويّة والهياكل الجانبيّة الوجودة تحت الجلد ،شكل القطرة والتصميم الميّز .ونظرا ً لمكانيّة تعليق الحقيبة عل اليدّ ،تتّسم بعمليّة
فريدة من نوعها .لذا تجمع حقيبة Tango Pouchأف“ل مزايا علمة ”!Gretchen وما هذه الحقيبة إل إحدى حقائب Gretchenالجميلة اللفتة للنظار .تجدر الشارة ف مجموعة خريف/شتاء 2016إل حقيبة الكتف Ebonyوالحقيبة الرياضيّة السطوانيّة Opal وحقيبة الظهر .Callaتقول “ :Schmittشكل ذ ّواق وتصميم ل يفنى مع الوقت وجلد جميل يصنعون حقيبة .”Gretchen تجدون الحقائب البتكرة من هذه العلمة ف متاجرها ف برلي ودوسلدورف. إم كنتم من محبّي السلوب البسيط ،زوروا .PB 0110 منذ ثلث سنوات ،أُطلِقت العلمة من قبل ،Philipp Breeابن Wolf Peterو Renate Breeاللّذين ّأسسا العلمة اللانيّة الختصة بالسلع الجلديّة .Breeبالعمل مع مص ّممي ألان مثل ّ Christian Metznerو Ayzit Bostanلبتكار حقائب يد زاويّة وأخرى واسعة مفتوحة وحقائب صغية أنيقة وحقائب ظهرٍ، تصف PB 0110مه ّمتها بالتكيز عل “قطعٍ عزيزة عل القلب” أو “أغراض تكتسب فرادتها بالستخدام اليومي ومع مرور الوقت”. بالتال ،التصاميم بسيطة ونظيفة ،ما يتيح للزبائن حملها كيفم يشاؤون .ل تول العلمة اهتمماً كبيا ً للمجموعات الوسميّة ،بل ت“يف اللوان إل تشكيلتها وتعتمد عل مجموعة من القطع الساسيّة .وقد قال Philipp Breeلجلّة Wallpaperف مقابلة حديثة معه“ :تبقى الوديلت الجيّدة طالا ث ّة طلب عليها”. الختصة بالسلع الجلديّة بالنسبة إل العلمات اللانيّة ّ بالحب عمل معجو ٌن التن ّوعة ،ابتكار القطع الفريدة من نوعها ٌ ّ حق؛ وخي دليل عل ذلك هو تشكيلة القطع الخلبة الوجودة عن ّ ف متاجرها. Good Together :56
شاكة موفّقة
يتعاون مص ّممو الزياء والف ّنانون مع بع“هم البعض هذا الوسم بطرقٍ مثية للهتمم نتيجة الج ّو البتكاري الديناميك السائد ف برلي .تقرير Karen Munnis تعاون الف ّنانون ومص ّممو الزياء عب العقود بطرقٍ شتّى .فقد ألهم الف ّنان السبان السيال Salvador Dalíالعديد من تصاميم خرا ً حقائب ي ّد Louis Elsa Schiaparelliالميّزة وتزيّنت مؤ ّ Vuittonبنقوش الف ّنان اليابان .Takashi Murakami بالرغم من عدم حداثة هذا الفهوم ف برلي ،شهد موسم خريف/ شتاء ،2016-2017زيادة ملحوظة ف التعاون بي الف ّناني الختصة بالزياء ف برلي والص ّممي .ت َب ِني العلمات التجاريّة ّ علقات مع ف ّناني والعكس صحيح ،فيم يصنع الص ّممون أفلم أزياء أو يلجأون إل التصوير لبتكار تجارب جديدة ف هذا القطاع. تجدر الشارة إل الف ّنان القيم ف برلي Christophe Cheminالذي تح ّولت رسوماته بالحب وال ّرصاص إل نقوش لجموعة اللبس النسائيّة والرجاليّة لدى Prada. Chemin ف ّنان ومص ّور ومؤلّف أربعة كتب بالفطرة ،سبق وتعاون مع علمة الزياء .Ann Demeulemeesterاستوحى نقوش اللبس الرجاليّة لدى Pradaمن تاريخ الف ّن والساطي الوروبيّة ،با ف globalblue.com
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xperience in our year-round stores the love for traditions and beauty. Discover throughout the year the largest selection of traditional German Christmas decorations like nutcrackers, Christmas pyramids, incense smokers, music boxes, light arches, Christmas tree ornaments made of glass, wood and pewter and much more in an enchanting atmosphere.
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e also carry in our stores a large variety of German souvenirs, cuckoo clocks and
exclusive products from world-famous German brands as well as the lovely and handmade products from our own artist workshop, the “Rothenburger Weihnachtswerkstatt”.
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LOOK AHEAD Stylish eyewear is a simple way to make a statement and Mykita’s range of children’s glasses has been developed with younger people’s needs in mind. These minimalist stainless steel and acetate frames are very lightweight, while being strong enough to withstand the rough and tumble of child’s play. Optical specialist Mykita positions itself at the Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 90
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