SHOP Berlin AW17

BERLIN | 柏林 | БЕРЛИН | ‫برلني‬

BERLIN Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2017/18

DISCOVER BERLIN: the German capital, home to luxury stores and exciting boutiques, is the country’s main fashion hub

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind.

For more than 135 years, the name

customers express when they purchase

“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost

jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of

expertise in the art of making jewellery

jewellery uphold international standards

and timepieces. We offer a unique

and are born in our own atelier. This is

selection of valuable treasures at 27

true for unusual one-of-a-kind items

Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are

as well as for our diverse assortment

especially proud because for more than

of classic pieces with brilliant-cut

a century we have been privileged to

diamonds. And a century-old friendship

contribute to the grand feelings that our

links us with the world’s foremost watch

We accept all credit cards.

www.wempe.com

manufactories. You will find WEMPE

always be available to meet your

showrooms at the loveliest locations

individual needs. We cordially invite you

in great European metropolises and in

to discover an abundance of interesting

New York City. Each shop also offers

new items and exclusive special models

service or advice whenever you require

at one of Europe’s leading jewellers.

it, so you can be certain that we will

We look forward to your visit!

Kurfürstendamm 215, T +49.(0)30.882 68 78 berlin.kurfuerstendamm@wempe.de Friedrichstraße 81, T +49.(0)30.20 39 99 20 berlin.friedrichstraße@wempe.de Rolex Boutique Kurfürstendamm 184, T +49.(0)30.55 66 90 10 rolexboutique.berlin@wempe.de HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK

THE SWISS HOUSE OF WATCHES AND FINE JEWELLERY Switzerland

Germany

Vienna

Copenhagen

Paris

Brand selection may vary.

Berlin Friedrichstraße 176-179 | Kurfürstendamm 45 Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Copenhagen | Paris | bucherer.com

WELCOME TO KADEWE BERLIN’S ONE-STOP LUXURY SHOPPING

kadewe.de

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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens & Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen 捷克

Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫أملانيا‬ 德国

Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Helsinki Area

Welcome to Berlin

Holland

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this free-spirited European capital. Berlin has much to offer, as our guide on page 47 reveals. In this issue we explore the role of streetwear on the city’s fashion scene – and further afield (page 32). Readers who appreciate friendly, quirky, original boutiques will also enjoy our feature on Berlin’s best concept stores (page 36).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Berlin. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without filling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

Istanbul Italy Japan Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Oslo Paris 巴黎

Portugal Prague Rome SE Finland Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna

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Emma Cheevers /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Singapore

In the mood for fashion?

Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices. visit us: www.c-a.com facebook.com/ca Berlin: Kurfürstendamm 227-229 • Alexanderplatz 1 • Leipziger Platz 12/13 • Steglitz, Schlossstraße 17a

Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам. . .

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CONTRIBUTORS

Dominique Fenn Dominique Fenn is a writer and creative consultant specialising in luxury fashion and lifestyle. She currently works for Fred Perry and has previously contributed to the Dazed group, I-D magazine and Anothermag.com. globalblue.com

William Lee Adams London-based journalist William Lee Adams is a former correspondent for Time magazine. He has also contributed to Newsweek, InStyle, Condé Nast Traveler, Monocle and GQ, among other publications.

Julia Spaeth German-born Julia Spaeth, SHOP’s production assistant, holds a degree in media communications from Regent’s University London.

She enjoys the cinema, travelling and discovering London’s hidden gems.

ILLUSTRATION: PIETARI POSTI; PHOTO: (RIGHT) TRAN CHAU TU

Pietari Posti Pietari Posti created this season’s cover artwork for SHOP Berlin. His elegant, witty graphic style was the perfect choice for this illustration, which shows Berlin’s Brandenburg Gate supported by a line of fashionably dressed models.

Pietari’s other clients include Starbucks and the New York Times.

Discover SHOP Berlin and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Pietari Posti Contributors Dominique Fenn, William Lee Adams Acting production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion and lifestyle writer Rebecca Rhys-Evans News editor Ginger Rose Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Hayley Moseley Artworking assistants Shirley Lau, Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Acting online managing editor Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener Human resources and office assistant Anjali Kapoor

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Head of commercial Europe/ Latin America Pier Francesco Nervini Head of commercial central Europe Ronald Christen Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialists Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko Sales manager Pino Dufter Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Berlin Tourismus & Kongress GmbH, Am Karlsbad 11, 10785 Berlin, +49 (0)30 250025, visitberlin.de

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistant Inga Abramian Marketing intern Joanna Dodge Digital production assistant Linda Hau Production assistant Chris Bigg

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2017 Global Blue

MALL OF BERLIN BEST OF SHOPPING MORE THAN 300 SHOPS ICONIC BRANDS DELICIOUS FOOD HALL

LP12 Mall of Berlin | Leipziger Platz 12 | 10117 Berlin Fon +49302062177-0 | www.mallofberlin.de | facebook.com/mallofberlin Opening Hours: Monday - Saturday 10am - 9pm

M a r c O’ P o l o

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CONTENTS PAGE

36

FEATURES

22

32

24

Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Berlin this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

NEWS 28

30

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Berlin News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

36

Word On The Street From global brands to niche labels, sportswear is the uniform of the street. Dominique Fenn reports on its wide appeal – and its central place on Berlin’s fashion scene Cool Concepts Berlin’s best concept stores take the city’s shopping experience to a whole new level.

William Lee Adams recommends the best

PAGE

32

Above (from top): The Store Berlin; Supreme, formerly a niche, underground label, is now a popular streetwear favourite

PHOTOS: (TOP) KIRCHNER KUTT; (BOTTOM) © GORUNWAY.COM

PRODUCTS

It’s a lot more fun, if it’s tax free!

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Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12, Shop 0.26, Tel. 030 / 20143325 ALEXA Shopping Center, Grunerstr. 20, Tel. 030 / 23455925 Potsdamer-Platz-Arkaden, Tel. 030 / 25297218 Mitte, Friedrichstr. 185-190, Tel. 030 / 20214625

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CONTENTS EXPERIENCE 42

PAGE

50

Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

GUIDE 47

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Berlin

ESSENTIALS 62

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS

SOUVENIR

63 66 73

74

中文翻译

Русский Перевод

The essential item to bring home

E NGL IS H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE...

Visit globalblue.com, our recently relaunched website, for the latest luxury shopping and travel stories, updated daily

访问我们近日新版上线的网站 globalblue.cn, 了解最新奢华购 物旅游信息，每日更新 FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent

Above: authentic Japanese food at Zenkichi

PHOTOS: (TOP) HIROSHI TOYODA; (BOTTOM) MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

Погрузитесь в мир роскошного шоппинга и увлекательных путешествий, посетив наш обновлённый сайт – globalblue.ru

KURFÜRSTENDAMM 217 MÜNZSTRASSE 21- 23 BERLIN

SMOOTH TRIP Prestigious shaving accessories brand Mühle has always celebrated this most masculine ritual, and is now making it ultra-easy for men to remain well-groomed while on the move. The latest additions to the Mühle range are high-quality travel toiletry cases for men. The larger version (pictured),

handcrafted in Germany, features a spacious interior sleeve designed to organise your shaving kit, with plenty of room for brushes, razors and skincare products such as Mühle’s Organic range, which is certified as allnatural. Carefully crafted in vegetable-tanned leather, the bags were inspired by classic etui cases used to carry cameras and binoculars.

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 62

Mühle was founded in 1945

by Otto Johannes Müller and has been creating covetable grooming essentials ever since. xd Mühle shaving bag, €187, Mühle, Hackesche Höfe, Rosenthaler Strasse 40-41, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 6026 9429, muehle-shaving.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 60

PHOTO: JO ZARTH

CH ECK OUT

only the best out west CONTEMPORARY FASHION, FABULOUS FOOD AND GREAT DESIGN

Adddress Gallery | American Vintage | Artek | Bensimon | Carhartt | Closed Gant | Kusmi Tea | Labo.Art | Mac | Mammut | Mykita | Premiata | Reisenthel Samsøe Samsøe | Scotch & Soda | Teufel / Raumfeld | The North Face Vans … and many more exceptional stores, restaurants and pop up boxes.

wonderful to wander bikini berlin

Zoologischer Garten

24 | P R O D U C T S

RED ALERT Make a subtle statement by accenting your black accessories with deep cherry red 2

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1. Lala Berlin coat, €598, Lala Berlin, Alte Schönhauser Strasse 3, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2009 5363, lalaberlin.com

3. Bulgari watch, €3,950, Bulgari, Kurfürstendamm 190-192, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 885 7920, bulgari.com

2. Mykita eyewear, €449, Mykita, Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 6, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 6730 8715, mykita.com

4. Tod’s handbag, €1,235, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2191 6444, tods.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 62

5. Giorgio Armani shoes, €890, Giorgio Armani, Kurfürstendamm 53-55, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2148 0741, armani.com

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WINTER GLOW From body butter to anti-aging serums, discover the best German cosmetics of the season

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PHOTO: (7) ARSMEDICOM GMBH

1. I+M Berlin cream deodorant, 100ml, €9.90, Belladonna, Bergmannstrasse 107, 10961 Berlin, +49 (0)30 6904 0333, iplusm.berlin 2. Und Gretel foundation, 30ml, €49.50, MDC Cosmetic, Knaackstrasse 26, 10405 Berlin, +49 (0)30 4005 6339, undgretel.com 3. Oliveda Olive Leaf Body Butter Grapefruit Rose, 180ml, €36.95, Oliveda, Neue Schönhauser Strasse 11, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2453 1446, oliveda.com

globalblue.com

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4. Royal Fern Phytoactive Anti-Aging Serum, 30ml, €250, Belle Rebelle, Bleibtreustrasse 42, 10623 Berlin, +49 (0)30 6796 72050, royalfern.com

6. Amala Rejuvenate Advanced Firming Concentrate, 40ml, €298, Breathe Fresh Cosmetics, Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 28, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2434 2577, amalabeauty.com

5. Annemarie Börlind NatuRoyale Eye and Lip Contour, 15ml, €59, Reformhaus Quentin, Grunerstrasse 20, 10179 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2472 4967, boerlind.com

7. Dr Hauschka Silk Body Powder, €20.50, Douglas, Kurfürstendamm 33, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 883 5065, dr.hauschka.com

26 | P R O D U C T S

TECH IN TRANSIT

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1. Fitbit Alta HR fitness tracker, €138, Conrad, Hasenheide 14-15, 10967 Berlin, +49 (0)9604 408787, fitbit.com

3. Sennheiser Momentum In-Ear Wireless headset, €199, Sennheiser, Tauentzienstrasse 17, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2363 0162, sennheiser.com

2. Horizn Studios DJ trolley, €499, Horizn Studios, Alte Schönhauser Strasse 33-34, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2084 74730, horizn-studios.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 62

4. Roxxlyn MacBook Slate skin, from €100, Roxxlyn, Brunnenstrasse 172, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 9835 2010, roxxlyn.com

PHOTOS: (1) NEWDEALDESIGN; (7) HAW-LIN SERVICES; (8) RYAN FIELD; (9) PÅL ALLAN

Lightweight and compatible products mean you can take your tech accessories with you wherever you go

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5. Kaweco Steel Sport fountain pen, €84.50, RSVP, Mulackstrasse 26, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2809 4644, kaweco-pen.com

7. PB0110 tote bag, €699, Süper Store, Dieffenbachstrasse 12, 10967 Berlin, +49 (0)30 9832 7944, pb0110.com

6. Leica Sofort camera, €299, Leica, Fasanenstrasse 71, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 5036 1666, leica-camera.com

8. Nixon Mission watch, €429, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 21210, nixon.com

globalblue.com

9. Urbanears speaker, €450, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 21210, urbanears.com

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SHOP WINDOW

Gretchen handbags and purses are crafted with timeless style in dynamic designs made from only the finest leathers. It’s thus no surprise that this luxury brand has found a new home on Kurfürstendamm, one of Berlin’s most prestigious and elegant shopping streets.

Taking inspiration from

architecturally structured shapes, each design is made with the modern woman in mind. Expect to find the entire product range of fine leather goods in this 60-square-metre space, from evening clutches to practical shoppers and backpacks, as well as premium accessories such as key rings, gloves and

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 62

wallets in complementary colours. This year also marks 10 years since the brand’s first collection, a further reason to visit the new store. km Gretchen, Kurfürstendamm 216, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 5130 39172, mygretchen.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 51

PHOTO: HARALD FRANTZ

IN THE BAG

kaufhof.de

GALERIA KAUFHOF MAKES YOU FALL IN LOVE WITH GERMANY Enjoy shopping at our famous department store in Berlin.

Free WLAN in our store!

We offer the service Downtown Cash Refund and pay out all your Global Blue German Tax Free Forms.

Galeria Kaufhof GmbH | Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1 | 50676 Kรถln

BERLIN, AM ALEXANDERPLATZ

30 | N E W S

TEAM SPIRIT Innovation meets style with the new collaboration between sportswear powerhouse Colmar and contemporary outfitter Au Jour Le Jour, which combines over 90 years of sportswear expertise with the talent and creativity of a young label. The outcome is a capsule collection that spans coats, T-shirts, knits and more for both men and women, all made in Italy. Revisiting Colmar’s heritage, the menswear and womenswear pieces feature bright, playful prints and colour block effects, finished with patches and bold logos. This collection of outerwear and knitwear draws on the multiple strengths of both these covetable brands. km Galeries Lafayette, Friedrichstrasse 76-78, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 209480, colmar.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 59

Cartier’s Panthère de Cartier watch, an icon of the 1980s, has been given an update at the peak of the current 80s trend revival.

Released in 1983, the Panthère watch was a favourite of female stars of the era, including actresses Elizabeth Taylor and Jane Seymour and singers Grace Jones and Cher. The classic design features a square body with rounded corners, a face set with Roman numerals, and blue sword-shaped hands. The revival collection watch is available in two sizes and a choice of nine different settings: steel, bicolour, yellow gold and pink gold can be set with or without brilliant-cut diamonds. We particularly like the medium Panthère de Cartier in pink gold (€22,100) for its elegant, classic look. rre Cartier, Kurfürstendamm 188-189, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 886 7060, cartier.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 50

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 62

PHOTOS: (TOP) PAOLO SANTAMBROGIO; (BOTTOM) © CARTIER

CHANNEL THE 80S

S H O P | 31

PERFORMANCE MEETS DESIGN The new Porsche Design Book One (€2,795) sees the lifestyle brand introduce computing into its offering. The innovative laptop is both convertible and detachable, thanks to a hinge that allows the tablet unit to be removed, or rotate through 360 degrees. Equipped with Windows 10 Pro, the device features 512GB of storage, both a touch display and a precision touchpad, and remarkable resolution of 3200 x 1800 pixels.

It is equipped with biometric authentication for easy, secure login. In keeping with the brand’s aesthetic, the laptop has a sophisticated matte aluminium finish. Versatility and high performance make this two-inone device ideal for travellers. grc Porsche Design, Kurfürstendamm 48-49, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8871 7830, porsche-design.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 50

PHOTOS: (TOP) MICROSOFT GMBH/MATTHIAS NADLER

IN BRIEF The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Master Co-Axial chronometer, a stunning feat of watchmaking, incorporates a beautiful mother-of-pearl dial, diamond hour markers and a diamondpaved bezel

globalblue.com

BUCKLE UP This season Berlin-based womenswear designer Marina Hoermanseder has collaborated with Wolford. The result is a capsule collection of tights, a dress and a bodysuit that combine the designer’s signature buckle motif with the feminine aesthetic of the Austrian lingerie and hosiery brand. The collaboration was unveiled during Berlin Fashion Week, within the context of Marina Hoermanseder’s autumn/winter 2017/18 show, a collection that draws on opera, the Victorian era, the 1920s and the 1960s. grc Wolford, Kurfürstendamm 48-49, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8872 1739, wolford.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 50

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

WORD ON THE STREET

From global brands to niche labels, sportswear is the uniform of the street. Dominique Fenn reports on its wide appeal – and its central place on Berlin’s fashion scene

T

hree lines down the side of a tracksuit; a swooping tick across a cotton T-shirt; a laurel wreath logo embroidered on the chest of a polo shirt, and a badge attached to the sleeve of a jumper with two glossy buttons – all distinctive signs of popular brands with sporting heritage, re-appropriated on our streets as everyday attire.

You will have recognised the unmistakable trademarks of Adidas, Nike, Fred Perry and Stone Island. Brands such as these are the uniform of the non-uniform, and a symbol of belonging. These trusted brands are typically adopted by teenagers who are seeking to both 63 73

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stand out and to fit in. Social scenes and youth culture are entwined, with members of each new generation seeking to express themselves in a different way. Finding your style tribe is a rite of passage just as it was for the punks and mod revivalists of the 1970s and 80s.

In recent years, however, it is not just the kids who are adopting the most recent trends.

Sportswear and streetwear are merging, as designers and consumers alike are eluding traditional categorisation within fashion. It has been some decades since we have we seen such a resurgence of sportswear brands being embraced beyond the courts and changing rooms.

Left: sportswear label Supreme is a streetwear favourite frequently seen at fashion weeks

34 | F E AT U R E S

2017 and everyone from teenagers to fashion editors eagerly anticipates Supreme’s latest drop, with fans queuing for hours, sometimes overnight, for the latest piece in capital cities.

The much-anticipated collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Supreme, formerly a niche, underground label, saw high fashion and hypefashion collide.

American outdoor clothing company The North Face was, until recently, a popular activewear label of choice for hikers, cyclists and people spending time surrounded by the elements. A collaboration with Supreme saw the brand’s kudos multiply overnight. Patagonia, the technical sportswear clothing brand with a social conscience, was once most likely to be an investment piece for serious explorers – now it is the brand of choice for many urban dwellers.

The bubble has not yet burst, not least in Berlin, a vibrant city with thriving subcultures, Above (clockwise from bottom left): Adidas Stan Smith sneakers; Patagonia Hyper Puff coat; Vetements, both autumn/winter 2017/18

PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT) EU.PATAGONIA.COM; (RIGHT) © GORUNWAY.COM

In 2015, Adidas reportedly sold eight million pairs of Stan Smiths globally. To add context, between 1973, the year the German sportswear giant launched the white tennis shoes, and 2015, it sold over 40 million pairs, according to its own official figures. The revival of interest in retro-style trainers is partly responsible, and influential figures wearing the minimal style, such as Céline’s Phoebe Philo, have made it acceptable for fashionable women to wear flat shoes.

Other relevant fashion moments include Givenchy’s Rottweiler hooded sweater, which became a cult item, gently loosening the silhouette and blurring the line between womenswear and menswear.

Then, of course, came the explosive rise of Demna Gvasalia at Vetements in 2014, with oversized hoodies and bomber jackets that were as desirable as gold dust. Fast forward to

S H O P | 35

PHOTOS: (LEFT) © GORUNWAY.COM; (TOP RIGHT) MICHAEL SUSCHEK/@RUNNERWALLY; (BOTTOM RIGHT) ROBERT WUNSCH

renowned for its liberal attitude and alternative clubbing scene. Individual style here has a distinctively punk attitude. While streetwear is a global language, it is underlying attitude and philosophy that truly makes a scene. Navigating the online reseller market requires dedication.

Fortunately, Berlin is host to some of the most exciting independent boutiques in the world.

No74 is an Adidas-owned shop, although only those in the know are aware of this. Its selection of Adidas and Y-3 is extensive and it’s possible to find all the collaborative Raf Simons and Rick Owens footwear here. Parties are frequently hosted in the space.

Overkill, the shop with a whole wall dedicated to sneakers, is another Berlin beacon for those seeking sporting footwear. CEO Thomas Peiser is highly regarded in the city for the extent of his stock. The range of styles here is impressive, with classic and new models

from stalwart favourites such as Nike, Adidas and Puma, as well as those by brands whose popularity has seen a recent surge – Asics and Onitsuka Tiger, for example. The boutique has strong ties to the street art scene, shown in its array of graffiti paraphernalia, and also offers a selection of sporty clothing for men and women.

Perhaps the best example of sportswear’s integration into the world of fashion is its infiltration into the brand lists of some of Berlin’s most respected fashion concept stores.

At Soto, a menswear emporium loved by styleconscious locals for its modern and original concept of men’s dressing, catwalk brands including Dries Van Noten, Acne Studios and Raf Simons share the rails with Puma, Adidas and the like. Filling Pieces and Eytys, two young sneaker specialists with cult followings, are also represented. Sportswear for the everyday, it seems, is here to stay Above (clockwise from left): Louis Vuitton X Supreme autumn/winter 2017/18; Overkill’s well-known sneaker wall; the stylish Soto menswear emporium

COOL CONCEPTS

Berlin’s best boutiques offer tempting purchases – and much more.

William Lee Adams discovers the concept stores that take the city’s shopping experience to a whole new level

Above: Voo Store’s eclectic offering

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rotating installations from wood designers and landscape artists, or pass the time by listening to the store’s music playlist and browsing its many books.

They can do all of this in Voo’s popular Companion Coffee space, which serves some of the city’s most sought-after blends.

Relaxed does not mean lazy, however. Voo’s creative team scour the globe for treasures, bringing together an impressive array of chic T-shirts, smart knitwear and inspiring evening dresses; brands available range from Nike and Adidas to Raf Simons and Marni.

‘Our minds and hearts are very close to nature in general and even more these days,’ says Hofmann, who cites an understated V-neck wool sweater from Prada’s autumn/winter 2017/18 collection as particularly representative of this aesthetic. ‘We do focus on craftsmanship and naturally sourced materials and products as much as possible. Our direction leans towards

PHOTOS: (BOTTOM LEFT) REBECCA CRAWFORD; (RIGHT) © GORUNWAY.COM

rom its riotous nightlife to its freespirited art scene, Berlin has a reputation for bending the rules. The same goes for its fashion scene. Its high-end shops are abandoning formality and upending the notion that chic must be cold, structured and severe. Instead comfort and quirkiness reign, transforming retail spaces into leisure spaces, where people are invited to browse and linger.

‘We wanted to create a vibe where people feel free to explore design and everything else we show and offer, but no one should feel obliged to buy something,’ says Herbert Hofmann, creative director of Voo Store.

‘There’s no pressure and no shiny fashionboutique flair.’

Located in gritty Kreuzberg, a hub of counterculture and art, Voo occupies the ground floor of a former locksmith. Amid 300 square metres of unfinished concrete walls and a vast courtyard space, visitors can admire

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Above (clockwise from top left): Herbert Hofmann, creative director of Voo Store; Prada V-neck wool sweater available in the store; Companion Coffee at Voo

S H O P | 39

that moving to a private atmosphere could help provoke the kind of encounter we enjoy.’

The label rose to prominence in 1997, when Martin Margiela sent models down the runway in Bless wigs made of fur. That was an appropriate start for the quirky brand, which blurs the boundaries of style with its designs, offering creations across the fields of fashion, beauty, interiors and art. Since then it has continued to inspire with largely androgynous clothing that includes cashmere hooded coats in camel; eye-catching scarves that mix colours like day-glow orange and rose pink; and knitted jumpers in alluring colourways of burnt orange, sky blue and brown.

Unlike traditional fashion houses, which frequently seek to reinvent themselves season after season, Bless prefers to grow organically.

‘We don’t really do collections in a classical way,’ Kaag says, noting that the apartment is filled with items from past and current

PHOTOS: BERT HOUBRECHTS

materials like linen, wool and styles that will stay with you for a long time.’

The laid-back atmosphere continues at Bless, a highly respected German label that occupies a third-floor apartment in a residential building on the border between the upmarket Mitte and artistic Prenzlauer Berg districts.

Visitors don’t just feel as though they’re strolling through someone’s bohemian home: they actually are.

Photographer Bert Houbrechts lives in the space and welcomes visitors with a cup of tea and an invitation to have a seat and a chat. A hairstylist from Japan is even available to cut hair on Saturdays. ‘We want to reach out to people who are looking for a place where they can see our things, but without being a shop – where customers sometimes browse without any concentration,’ says creative director Ines Kaag.

She relocated Bless from a more traditional location a few years ago, as, she says, ‘We felt

Above (both): the Bless concept store feels like a bohemian apartment - because it is also home to a Berlin photographer

40 | F E AT U R E S

seasons. ‘We’ve tried to establish new classic pieces that repeat in different fabrics each season and we would add whatever comes along with it.’ Fashion mavens aren’t the only ones to take note of the brand’s bold and everevolving designs. Before being hung inside the apartment’s open closets and racks, some of its scarves, print T-shirts and knitted sweaters were exhibited at the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris and the Centre Pompidou.

The idea of feeling at home in a boutique is also pertinent at The Store Berlin. Located inside the Soho House private members’ club, The Store is open to everyone, from the well-heeled guests staying in the club’s hotel to trend-conscious locals looking for a place to pass the time. Designed to resemble a private home, the hybrid retail space invites visitors to take their time inside the 2,800-square-metre wonderland, which seamlessly melds food, Above: The Store Berlin is located in the city’s branch of Soho House

fashion, art installations, co-working space and photography exhibitions.

The highly edited apparel section includes garments from The Row, Issey Miyake and Proenza Schouler, among others, and there are countless nooks where hipsters can sip lattes while flipping through glossy coffee table books and magazines. Virtually everything is for sale – from the music playing to the candles burning, to the sofas where visitors are invited to relax after their shopping sprees. It puts a stylish and decidedly comfortable spin on ‘try before you buy’.

While the ease of online shopping is threatening the bricks-and-mortar store, there are some experiences that cannot be replicated in front of a screen. It looks as though Berlin’s best boutiques, with their friendly, clientcentred, original approaches, have found a way to keep us returning time and time again

PHOTO: KIRCHNER KUTT

Berlin’s best boutiques, with their friendly, client-centred, original approaches, keep customers returning time and time again

SHOPPING IS BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE Shop Tax Free and save up to 19% Find out more at globalblue.com

42 | E X P E R I E N C E

STAY IN STYLE The world’s finest hotels boast desirable locations, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best

HOBO Hobo, which combines intelligent design, urban farming and innovative technology, has quickly become one of the most exciting hotels in Stockholm – and in all of Scandinavia. Set in a brutalist building from the 1970s, the hotel is a key part of the regeneration of Stockholm’s Brunkebergstorg square; the district has recently seen an influx of fashionable boutiques, bars and restaurants. The 201-room hotel is sure to be a hit with design aficionados. globalblue.com

Designed by Berlin-based Studio Aisslinger in collaboration with local designers and artists, the rooms feature bespoke lighting, creative multifunctional furniture and intriguing wall art installations. The pioneering aquaponic herb garden in the hotel’s lobby provides the flavourings for drinks and restaurant dishes.

Hobo, Brunkebergstorg 4, 111 51 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5788 2700, hobo.se

S H O P | 43

SANDERS The Sanders luxury boutique hotel is a 2017 addition to the heart of Copenhagen’s historic centre. Minutes away from the picturesque Nyhavn canal and the Amalienborg royal residence, its 54 guestrooms are some of the most luxurious in Copenhagen. Inspired by the golden age of travel and the world of theatre, each of the hotel’s rooms evokes the spirit of old-school glamour, with handpicked and bespoke luxury furniture and polished

hardwood accents nodding to colonial-era décor. The hotel’s restaurant, Sanders Kitchen, offers guests homely, family-style dining with a focus on locally farmed, fresh produce. The Tata bar’s menu of classic cocktails makes it the perfect place to unwind after a day spent exploring Copenhagen.

Sanders, Tordenskjoldsgade 15, 1055 Copenhagen, +45 7020 2818, hotelsanders.com

THE ONE BARCELONA The five-star One Barcelona is located in the Dreta de l’Eixample neighbourhood, a stone’s throw from the famous Passeig de Gràcia and Avinguda Diagonal. The hotel’s stunning interior, the work of internationally renowned Spanish designer Jaime Beriestain, focuses on natural light and the finest materials, including Italian marble and 18-carat gold, and epitomises contemporary elegance. The hotel’s 89 spacious rooms, 25 of which are suites, feature ingenious, subtle design features and globalblue.com

innovative technology, including electric blinds and smart lighting which automatically adjusts the room’s brightness. The building’s most striking design feature, a central glass atrium, floods the communal areas with light, while the Mood rooftop bar, terrace and pool provide the perfect setting for relaxing with a cocktail and enjoying breathtaking views of the city.

The One Barcelona, Carrer de Provença 277, 08037 Barcelona, +34 93 214 2070, hotelstheone.com

PHOTO: MANOLO YLLERA

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S H O P | 45

PHOTO: LEMONGRASS MARKETING

MARTINHAL CHIADO Families need no longer compromise on luxury or practicality with the opening of Martinhal’s family-friendly hotel in Lisbon’s fashionable Chiado district. Offering all the style and amenities of a high-end hotel, but designed with families in mind, the hotel aims to take the stress out of travelling with children. Stylish apartments feature adult rooms, kids’ rooms and spaces for the family to share, and the modern aesthetics belie the careful child-friendly elements, from an

abundance of curved corners and soft cushions to varying sizes of furniture. These small details are combined with thoughtful services; for example, guests can book everything from bottles to baby baths in advance of their arrival, making Martinhal Chiado one of the most intelligent and luxurious family hotels available.

Martinhal Chiado, Rua das Flores 44, 1200-195 Lisbon, +351 21 850788, martinhal.com

TOM-TAILOR.DE

ROCK N ROLL?

TOM TAILOR STORE LEIPZIGER PLATZ 12 BERLIN

G U I D E | 47

GUIDE

PHOTO: VISIT BERLIN/WOLFGANG SCHOLVIEN

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Berlin with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from Europe’s top street food contest to a selection of original fashion boutiques. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/berlin.

Above: the Oberbaum bridge across the River Spree, pictured at sunset

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SHOP HIGHLIGHTS Café am Neuen See

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Gretchen Gretchen’s Tango bag is a modern classic. Pick one up in the brand’s new Berlin boutique.

Gretchen, Kurfürstendamm 216, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 5130 39172, mygretchen.com

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Frau Tonis Parfum Choose a new signature scent at this enticing fragrance boutique.

FU GGER ST R AS SE Frau Tonis Parfum, Zimmerstrasse 13, 10969 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2021 5310, frau-tonis-parfum.com

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Zenkichi Sample delectable Japanese cuisine at this highly praised eatery. Zenkichi’s sake selection is impeccable.

Zenkichi, WITTENBERGPLATZ Johannisstrasse 20, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2463 0810, zenkichi.de

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D B Voo Store, R. ST EN Oranienstrasse A F 24, GR RG BU 10999 Berlin, +49 K U(0)30 695 797 2710, RFÜ vooberlin.com ST

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Zenkichi, Johannisstrasse 20, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2463 0810, zenkichi.de

Zenkichi appeared on Berlin’s culinary scene in 2015, arriving from New York to amaze guests with an elegant, authentic Japanese dining experience. Modelled on traditional Tokyo establishments, Zenkichi serves Japanese dishes à la carte or as an omakase (tasting) menu selected by the chef. Items on the seasonal menus might include grilled saiko black cod or organic apple-fed pork kakuni. Co-owner and certified sake sommelier Motoko Watanabe works with the head chef to devise the menu, and has personally selected Zenkichi’s extensive list of sakes, which are sourced from Japanese elite breweries.

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SELECTED SHOPS IN KADEWE: Burberry Bulgari Calvin Klein Céline Chopard Christ Diesel Dior Fendi Hermès Hugo Boss Lacoste Louis Vuitton Miu Miu

Montblanc Nespresso Omega Niki Prada Rolex Rosenthal Salvatore Ferragamo Steiff Sony Tiffany & Co Tod’s Vertu Wellendorff WMF

PHOTO: MAGNUS KLACKENSTAM

Monochromatic pieces inspired by street style are the focal point of the Thom Krom brand, founded and curated by Thomas Kromik. Creating minimalist clothing that aims to help the customer ‘tell a story’, Kromik infuses classic, functional style into his eminently wearable garments. This season, oversized black turtlenecks are paired with cropped black trousers for women, with men’s looks combining bomber jackets and hooded tops. Layering is always a central part of Thom Krom collections, creating effortless combinations with endless possibilities. The colour palette of mainly black and white allows the high-quality materials and well-made designs to shine through.

Orimono, Joachimstrasse 5, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 5565 6694, thomkrom.com

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Germany is famous for its beers, but Our Berlin is adding to the country’s drinks repertoire with the launch of its Botanical Blends series of vodka infusion kits.

Available in three flavours, juniper, oak and citrus, the kits allow you to take a piece of hipster Berlin culture home with you. Add a sachet of ingredients to your vodka, and wait for the magic to happen; depending on the flavour, infusion time is anything from 10 minutes to 15 hours.

Each blend has been balanced to create a delicious tipple that can be enjoyed on its own, or blended with other ingredients in a cocktail. Our favourite is the citrus infusion, which combines Nigerian ginger with Chinese white tea and Thai lemongrass, while the smoky oak infusion, with notes of saffron and Madagascan vanilla, makes a great addition to a warming winter drink.

Our Berlin, Flutgraben 2, 12435 Berlin, +49 (0)30 5360 2227, ourvodka.com/ourberlin

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SCHUHKONZEPT ● DIBEL ● DIE SEHMÄNNER ●

● SØR WOMAN ● PASHION ● FLEUR DE PARIS ● GIORGIA BOUTIQUE ● BLEIBGRÜN

LIETZENBU

globalblue.com

RGER STR .

PHOTOS: RIAN DAVIDSON

● PATRICK HELLMANN ● TORQUATO ● SØR HERRENAUSSTATTER

54 | G U I D E

Schlossstrasse

Hunkemöller Intersport Sporthaus Pimkie Primark Spiele Max

Forum Steglitz

MANGO ● VERO MODA / JACK & JONES ●

SE

AS

3 10 HN BA SE AS

AU

TR

SE

NS

ES

SE

AS TR NE

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AL

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HL

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● HUGENDUBEL

SE

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ND

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LLOYD CONCEPT STORE ● SCHILDHORN APOTHEKE ● BIBA ●

BU

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Peek & Cloppenburg

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Centre Steglitz

AH

● HIRMER

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SELECTED SHOPS IN FORUM STEGLITZ: Esprit H&M

AS

● FOOT LOCKER ● BIBA

OS

SS

APOLLO-OPTIK ● FIELMANN ● BASLER ●

RUNNERS POINT ●

SC

TIVOLA ●

HN BA TO

ES

SE

SS RA ST RG

BU EN TH

AU

● ULLA POPKEN SPORTSCHECK ● ● WITTSTOCK BRAX ● ● BONITA THE BODY SHOP ● CLARKS ● ● VILLEROY & BOCH DOUGLAS ● PETIT BATEAU ● ● NATURKAUFHAUS

.

ND

TR

BU

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Das Schloss 10

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BIRKENSTOCK ● GLOBETROTTER ●

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SELECTED SHOPS IN CENTRE STEGLITZ: Aktiv Schuh Apollo Optik Ara Bijou Brigitte Christ Comma Desigual Douglas Esprit Gerry Weber G-Star Hallhuber H&M Hollister Hunkemöller Jette Joop Karstadt Karstadt Sports Konplott Kult Lloyd L’Occitane Lush LTB Mexx New Yorker Only Orsay Pandora Pilgrim Promod Runners Point Saturn S Oliver Sidestep Tamaris Tally Weijl Zara

HT

ST

R.

SCHLOSSPARK THEATRE

SELECTED SHOPS IN DAS SCHLOSS: Anson’s Benetton Bonita Christ Colloseum Conrad Electronic Esprit Gabor-Camel Gamestop Geox Gerry Weber Görtz H&M Marc O’Polo Media Markt Mexx New Yorker Orsay Pimkie S Oliver Street One Tommy Hilfiger

SILKE DEBLER Berlin-based designer Silke Debler founded her brand in 2012 to champion elegant and innovative glove design. Opulence is a central theme of her autumn/winter 2017/18 collection. Inspired by French cinema, pops of colour including cherry red, forest green and magenta elevate simple styles. Details such as zips, pinstripes and fur details add a playful spirit to the range, which offers everything from cropped versions to medium-length and full-length gloves, at prices ranging from €145 to €895.

Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Lala Berlin, Alte Schönhauser Strasse 3, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2009 5363, silkedebler.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 60

Department Store

Shopping Centre/Mall

SHOPPING IS BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE Shop Tax Free and save up to 19% Find out more at globalblue.com

56 | G U I D E

EAST BERLIN JOH ANNISSTRASSE

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EN ST R A SS

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58

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Berlin Hilton

STADTMITTE

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Place Of Interest

CONCERT HALL BERLIN

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Hyatt Hotel

Shopping Centre/Mall

R ASSE

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Sofitel

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MOHRENSTRASSE Hotel Ritz Carlton

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S H O P | 57

MÜ

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Hotel Park Inn Berlin

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60

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58 | G U I D E

Leipziger Platz, Potsdamer Platz U N T ER D EN

BRANDENBURGER TOR

WIL

HEL

MS

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EBERTSR A SSE

DEUTSCHE KINEMATHEK ER

ST

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PL A TZ

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U E S TR A SSE

SE

JAMES CASTLE British designer James Castle worked for Alexander McQueen before establishing his own Berlin-based label in 2010. Classic yet modern, James Castle creates timeless clothing and accessories that combine fine fabrics with excellent craftsmanship.

Tailoring, a key focus for the brand, is evident throughout the James Castle collections, all made in the label’s Berlin

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

T RA SS E

EV

● SONY CENTER

Steiff Street Shoes Strellson Sunglass Hut Swarovski Taschenparadies The Body Shop Thomas Sabo Tom Tailor Tommy Hilfiger Toys R Us Trigema Triumph Twin-Set Undiz Uniqlo Vans Vero Moda WE Wigglesteps WMF Wormland Zara Zero FR IED R IC HS

LL

R A SS E

BE

Navyboot Nike Oakley Olymp Pandora Passionata Peak Performance Peek & Cloppenburg Pepe Jeans Reno Replay Rich And Royal .

Rituals Runners Point Salamander Sarar Saturn Schiesser Schuh Bode Shoe City Sidestep Snipes Sportalm Kitzbühel Sportscheck GL IN K A ST

SELECTED SHOPS IN MALL OF BERLIN: 1.2.3.

Desigual Hugo Boss ● JUWELIER LEICHT 7 For All Mankind Dogo Shoes Hunkemöller Adidas Douglas Intimissimi Aris Art of Diamond Einblick Optik Jack & Jones Airfield Engelsrufer & Co. JD Sports H R E N S T R A S S E BE Apotheke Am Esprit Karl Lagerfeld Leipziger Platz Eterna Kiehls Armani Jeans Être Belle Cosmetics Konplott Bershka Falke Kusmi Tea Bijou Brigitte Fashion Club Lacoste Bree Fast Forward Levi’s Build a Bear FC Bayern München Liebeskind Workshop Fanshop Lief Lifestyle Calvin Klein Jeans Foot Locker Liu Jo Calzedonia Fossil Lloyd Casano French Connection Look54 Change Gant Mac Cosmetics C&A Gina Tricot Mango Christ G-Star Marc Cain Cinque Guess Marc O’Polo Clarks Ecco Hertha BSC Fanshop Massimo Dutti MOHRENSTRASSE Codello H&M Max & Co Cos Hallhuber Mephisto Deichmann Hollister Muji

LI N D EN

SELECTED SHOPS IN POTSDAMER PLATZ ARKADEN: 1.2.3 Mandarina Duck S E Mango PZIGER ST R A S L E IAmpelmann Anna Stern Marc O’Polo Bijou Brigitte Nara Camicie Bonita Palmers Camper Pandora Christ Potsdamer Platz Apotheke Deichmann Promod Douglas Puma Einblick Optik Quiksilver Esprit S Oliver Fast Forward Swarovski G-Star SE TR ASMaxx Gerry WeberZIM ME RSTK Tommy Hilfiger Guess Vero Moda H&M WE Habitat WMF Hunkemöller Wolford Kiko

studio. The handbag line follows a similar aesthetic; simple shapes are created in high-quality materials, including Italian leather. A hot pink style will stand out this season – or choose a black striped bag that combines different materials and textures for a look that is minimalist with a twist.

Konk, Kleine Hamburger Strasse 15, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2809 7839, jamescastle.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 60

Department Store

Shopping Centre

S H O P | 59

LOCAL TIP

The inaugural European Street Food Awards come to Berlin on 30 September and 1 October 2017. The best of Europe’s street-food vans will descend upon the German capital to fight it out for titles in an array of categories, including European Street Food Champion. Be sure to come hungry, ready for delicious treats such as the pictured pulled pork sandwich from Big Stuff Smoked BBQ. biteclub.de

Unter Den Linden, Friedrichstrasse & Französische Strasse

E EN ST R

DUSSMANN ● KULTURKAUFHAUS

A SSE SC HA D OW

D O RO T H

R AS SE MI TT EL ST

ST R.

.

● STEFANEL

F RI ED R IC H

R A SSE

HAUSVOGTEIPLATZ ● AMPELMANN

MO HRE NST R

FASSBENDER ● & RAUSCH ● BANG & OLUFSEN

● MARC CAIN

STR A SSE

PHOTO: REBECCA CRAWFORD

A SSE

LEIPZIG ER ST

R AS SE

SSE

● FRANKONIA

R A SSE

KR ON EN ST

J ÄG E R S T R A

EN S T R .

SE

GEOX ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● OUKAN ●

M AR KG R AF

G LIN K A S TR

BRILLE 4 ●

Galeries Lafayette P.30

Gendarmen Markt Quartier 205, 206, 207

MARINA RINALDI ● THOMAS SABO ● MAX MARA ● ST MOHR EN

ISCH E ST R .

● LE TANNEUR ● MAX & CO

ESCADA ● BUCHERER ● LÄDERACH ● S TA U B E N S T R A

● THE CORNER

F R A N ZÖ S

T RA SS E

TR SELECTED STORES IN QUARTIER 205, 206, 207: Dorothee Schumacher Etro Gant H&M Hellmann Wolford Marc Cain

A SSE

● WEMPE ● NAVYBOOT ● MONTBLANC ● H&M

JÄG E R S T R .

SSE

MS

FRANZÖSISCHE STR.

.

NESPRESSO ● SANDRO ● ROECKL ● KARL LAGERFELD ● SWAROVSKI ● CADENZZA ● LEISER ●

B EHR ENS T R

LLSTR A

HEL

HUGO BOSS ● PANDORA ●

E

AT Z

FR IE D RI C HS

WIL

IITALLA ● KPM ● LACOSTE ●

EMPORIO ARMANI ●

ISCH E ST R

● & OTHER STORIES Bebel Platz ● H&M ● GENTLEMEN’S CIRCLE ● COS ● MASSIMO DUTTI

AMPELMANN ● NAPAPIJRI●

O B ER WA

LI N D EN

APOTHEKE FRIEDRICHSTADT ●

TR A SS BEHR ENS

DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM

B EB EL PL

MEISSEN ●

BRANDENBURGER TOR

● ESPRIT ● MARC O’POLO ● ZARA ● DOUGLAS

BIRKENSTOCK ● AKTIV SCHUHE ● TAMARIS● ● NIVEA HAUS

U N T ER D EN

F R A N ZÖ S

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U N I V E R S I TÄ

● SHOE CITY ● TIMBERLAND

K RO N EN ST

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Hilton Hotel

RA SS E

L EIPZIGER S

TR A SSE

● TANDEM&TRANSIT ● FRAAS

KR AU SE NS

TR AS SE

● CYBERPORT

E Place Of Interest

Train Station

Hotel

U-Bahn

Featured In This Issue

60 | G U I D E

Alexanderplatz, Brückenstrasse, Linienstrasse, Neue Schönhauser Strasse & Rosenthaler Strasse SOTO STORE ●

NOVACANE ●

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IS BERLIN STAR BEAUTY ● BERLIN STAR TAX FREE SHOP ●

E

R.

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S

SE

EN

TR AS

E

RA

BR

Liebeskind Mammut Media Markt Mexx Palmers Lejaby Picard Pilgrim Roland-Schuhe KLOSTERSTR. Runners Point S Oliver Side Step Street One Swatch Tally Weijl Tamaris The Body Shop Tommy Hilfiger Triumph Vero Moda RWE O L A NDUFER WMF Yves Rocher Zara Zero

TEN

ENS

SS

ST

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LIT

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RA

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● DECATHLON

SELECTED STORES IN ALEXA CENTER: Betty Barclay Biba Bijou Brigitte Camel Christ Colloseum Comma Deichmann Douglas EDC Esprit Eterna Fast Forward Fossil G-Star Gerry Weber H&M Jack Wolfskin Juwelier Classic Kookaï Levi’s ST

ST

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● ULLA POPKEN US H A ● AKTIV SCHUH

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ST

BR LE

SE

AL

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TZ LA

ÜH

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● TK MAXX ● SHOE CITY

LA

SP

M

SATURN ● PROMOD ● ESPRIT ● NEW YORKER ●

RA

TZ LA

K

HT

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EX

PRIMARK ●

T Galeria KauÄof M W TS ● H E EC Y L E IL FR W KN ● IEB ● C&A L L A R ALEXANDERPLATZ

RA

OS AC

AL

● RENO

SE

ST

HL IE

GR

S RA

F

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SELECTED STORES IN HACKESCHE HÖFE: Ampelmann Gretchen H&M Jost Nike Store Mac Mango Mühle P.22 Oakley O-Store Peak Performance Profumo E Sandro SS Sawade T R A SS Stefanel AU Stones TH A Trippen R

HS

LU

SA

SE

AS

R

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● DESIGUAL

● MYKITA

OLYMP & HADES ●

SC FR

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A SSE

RP

A- K

● ULF HAINES

STR

DE

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R.

AN

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ST

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NA

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HACKESCHER MARKT

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RO

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● ADIDAS ● AMERIC AN APPARE L TOMMY ● HILFIGE R ● DENHAM

● NIKE

● ROYAL REPUBLIK ● COS ● MISS SIXTY

● & OTHER STORIE S ● WEEKD AY ● RESPEC TMEN ● 14OZ ● CAMPE R ● MUJI ● BUFFALO

O R A N IE N B U R G E R ST

STR

.

● ACNE STUDIOS

A RH H L CA O S E HU E F GESTALTEN A ● H U G E SY L D N E C C ER S SC TH N SPACE ● EB A ● RE RR FE EDE ● B Y S ● R T FIT T R S T P EG E S W B UP L A A N N OU D / ● E L A F 7 N E J E BA ● FREITAG LAB BEN SHERMAN ● F R L R O Z 1 R / R P E UR ● A R I G E R T Y KO V I P E ● ● WRANGLER ● WAGNER K A Ö OAKLEY ● ● ● T G DR M ● TR . ● ELEVENPARIS S MCM ● NEU ● ● ● SER ● CONVERSE E S C H Ö H AU N MICHAEL KORS ● ● HALLHUBER

Hackesche Höfe

STR AS SE

● PRO QM

HORIZN ● STUDIOS AG

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STRASS E

LALA BERLIN ●

P.54

P.58

● KONK

● MELAMPO LINIEN

AD ● DEERTZ

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

U-Bahn

Train Station

Shopping Centre/Mall

S H O P | 61

DAY TRIP DESIGNER OUTLET BERLIN Discover over 100 top international brands, all reduced by up to 70%, as well as delicious dining options at Designer Outlet Berlin.

Designer Outlet Berlin, Alter Spandauer Weg 1, 14641 Wustermark, +49 (0)33 234 9040, designeroutletberlin.com

OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sundays and public holidays: closed

PERFECT DAY ELSTAL STATION

Designer Outlet Berlin

BERLIN CENTRAL STATION

B5 B5

B5

BERLIN

A10

11am Start the day with a splash of colour and a selection of vibrant prints at distinctive Spanish label Desigual.

A10

12pm Admire the high-quality tailoring at Hugo Boss. Expect a perfect fit across the range.

POTSDAM STATION

P OT SDA M

HOW TO GET THERE By car From Berlin: follow Heerstrasse on the B5 to Spandau, continue until you see the junction signposted Designer Outlet Berlin.

From Potsdam: follow the Berlin ring road westward (A10), taking the junction for Berlin-Spandau B5.

By bus and train From Berlin: take regional train RE4 towards Rathenow and get off at Elstal Station. Continue with bus 662 to Designer Outlet Berlin.

From Potsdam: take regional train RB21 towards Wustermark to Priort Station. Continue with bus 662 to Designer Outlet Berlin.

By taxi From Berlin city centre: approximately 40 minutes.

From Potsdam city centre: approximately 20 minutes.

Train Station

Outlet Village

Coach Station

1pm Take a break at San Francisco Coffee Company where rare and speciality coffees are sure to provide an afternoon pick-me-up.

3pm Escada is known for its elegant womenswear designs.

If you’re seeking eveningwear or formal attire for all your seasonal engagements, you need look no further.

5pm End your day among the sparkling crystals at Swarovski. The label is known for its precision cuts and clarity as well as its elegant jewellery.

62

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

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Berlin Schönefeld Airport Terminal A, Departures, next to customs Berlin Tegel Airport Terminal A, next to the café-bar Downtown Berlin KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24 Galeria Kaufhof, Alexanderplatz 9 (customer service centre, fifth floor) Dresden Airport Terminal B, opposite customs in the airport service area Leipzig Airport/Halle Central Terminal, Lufthansa ticket/information counter in the check-in area; the Global Blue Refund Office is opposite customs

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Refund Offices At all airport Refund Offices, go to customs before check-in

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TRANSLATIONS 中文翻译 32: Word On The Street 街头宣言

无 论 是国际 大 牌还 是 小众品牌，运 动 装一直 是 街头穿 搭的主 打元 素。Dominique Fenn深入分析 这一风 靡 全 球 的装 扮风 格，及其 在 柏 林 时尚界 的 重要地位 运 动 装 侧 面的三 条 线，棉质 T恤 上 形如闪电 的 钩 子， 绣 在马球 衫上 的 桂 冠 标 志，以 及套头衫 袖 子上由两颗 闪亮 纽 扣固定 的 徽 章— — 这 些 极具 辨 识 度的人气 运 动 品牌，如 今已 摇 身成 为人们 的日常装 扮出现 在 街头巷 尾。 没有人会 认错 阿迪 达 斯、耐克、Fred Perry和 Stone Island的商 标，这 样 的品牌简直 就像制服 一样， 为不同的人营造 出某 种归属感。这 些 倍 受 信 赖 的品牌 通常受 到青少 年 的 青 睐，他们 既 渴 望 脱 颖 而出，又期 盼与周围的人 融 洽 相处。社会生活 和 青 年 文化 交 织在 一 起，每 一 代 人都 希望 通 过不同的 方 式 表 达自我。正 如 70年 代 和 80年 代 的朋克、摩登复兴派 和 休闲一族 一 样，探 寻自己的风 格 是 成长的必 经 之 路。 然而，近 年来，紧跟 时尚潮 流 的可 不 仅是 小 年 轻 了。设 计师 和顾客不 断虚化 时装界 的传 统 划 分界 限， 运 动 装 和 街头时装 正在 合而为 一。时 隔 数十 年，我们 再 次目睹 运 动 装 在 球 场 和更衣 室之外大 行其道。 据 报 道，2015年 阿迪 达 斯在 全 球 共售出 800万 双 Stan Smiths运 动 鞋。而根 据品牌官 方 数 据，从 1973 年这 家德国运 动 装巨头 推 出这 款白色网 球 鞋 到 2015 年间，累计 售出了超 过 4000万 双。这一方面 要归 功 于 复古运 动 鞋 的 重 新 流行，另一方面，许 多崇尚 极简风 格 的 重 量 级 人物 — — 比如 Céline创意 总监 Phoebe

Philo— — 在 时尚 女 性中间掀 起了一股平底 鞋 的 热 潮。 纪梵 希（ Givenchy）的罗威 纳（ Rottweiler）连 帽 运 动 衫同样 在 时尚界 掀 起了 轩 然 大波。这 款明星单品 以 柔 和而宽 松 的廓 形，模 糊了女 装 和男装 的界 限。接 着，2014年 Demna Gvasalia携 手 Vetements火热 登 场，宽 松 连 帽 衫 和飞 行员夹克 炙手可 热，一 时间风 头 无两。时间快 进 到 2017年，下至年 轻 人 上 至时装 编 辑

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都 热 切 期 盼 着 Supreme的 最 新 作品，各大 城 市 的忠实 粉 丝不惜 排上 几 小 时 的队伍，甚至彻 夜等 候，只为 抢 购其 最 新 款 式。曾经 的小众非主 流品牌 Supreme与路 易威 登的合作可谓 万众 期 待，两家 携 手奉上 潮 流 爆 款 和高级 时装 的美 妙碰 撞。 不久以前，美国户外服 装品牌 北面（ The North Face）还 只是 远 足 者、自行车手和户外活 动爱 好者的 globalblue.cn

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宠 儿，与 Supreme的合作 却 让 该品牌 一夜 之间名声大

购 物 的感 觉，” Voo Store创意 总监 Herbert Hofmann

噪。此 外，具 有 社会 责任感 的专业 运 动服 装品牌

表 示。“ 没有压力，也 没有金 碧辉 煌 的 精品店风范。”

Patagonia曾经 仅仅被 资深 探 险家 视 为心 头 所好，如 今 也已成 为 许 多都 市人 的不二选 择。 运 动品牌 的 泡 沫 还 没有 破 裂，至少在 柏 林是 这 样

Voo位于风 格粗 旷 的十字山区（ Kreuzberg），坐 落于 一 幢 建 筑 的底 层，这 里 的 前身 是 一家锁 匠铺。该 地 区是非主 流文化 和 艺 术的聚 集 地。在 近 300平方米

的。这 座城 市 拥有 繁 荣 的亚文化，以开放 的态度 和另

由毛 坯 水泥 墙 搭 建 起 来的空间和广阔的庭 院中，顾客

类 夜 店场 景而闻名。这 里 的个人 风 格有 着明 显 的朋克

可以 欣 赏到木品设 计师 和 景观艺 术 家 轮 流 展 出的作

气 质。虽然 街头服 饰 是 全 球 通 用语 言，真正不同凡响

品，也可以聆 听 该 店 的 精 选 歌单，或阅读书 籍 来打发

的乃 是其背后的态度 和 理 念。要 在网上 搜寻可靠佳 作

时间。Voo店内还 有 超 人气 的 Companion Coffee咖 啡

绝 非 易事。所 幸，柏 林 拥有不 少 全 世界最 激 动人心的

店，供 应 全柏 林 最炙手可 热 的美 味 咖 啡。

独 立 精品店。

No74是 一家 隶 属于 阿迪 达 斯 的 精品店，只有内行

然而，这 种 悠闲并不意 味 着 慵 懒。Voo的 创意团队 在世界 各地 积 极 搜寻宝 贝，荟 萃了来自耐克、阿迪 达

人 才知道 其背后的 渊源。店内汇 集了各 式 各 样 的阿迪

斯、Raf Simons和 Marni等品牌 的海 量时尚 T恤、惹

达 斯 和 Y- 3运 动 鞋，还 可以找 到所有 Raf Simons和

火 的比 基尼 与别 具一 格 的 晚 礼 服。

Rick Owens的合作 款 式。夜 幕 降临，精品店 时 常 摇 身 变 成 英 式 酒 吧，举 行 狂 欢 派 对。

Overkill是 柏 林另一处购买运 动 鞋 的天 堂，店内

“总体而 言，我们 的思 维 和心灵与大自然 非常亲 近，近 来更是 如此，”为 特意 阐述 这 种 审 美 观，Hofmann提 及了普拉 达（ Prada）2017/ 18年 秋冬

有一整面墙 专用于陈列运 动 鞋。该 店 的库 存 种 类十分

季系列中一 件 简朴 的 V领羊 毛 衫。“ 我们 尽可能 地向工

丰富，首席执 行官 Thomas Peiser也因而 在 柏 林备 受

艺以 及源自大自然 的 材 料和产品 投去更多关注。我们

尊崇。店内的 运 动 鞋 款 式 之多 令人惊 叹，既 囊 括了耐

更青 睐 亚 麻 和 羊 毛 这 样 的 材 料，以 及 更 加经 久 耐 穿 的

克、阿迪 达 斯 和彪马 等 热门大 牌 的经典 之作 和 全 新 款 式，亦包括亚 瑟 士（ Asics）和鬼 冢虎（ Onitsuka Tiger）等近 年来人气 骤 升 的品牌。精品店 充 满了街头 艺 术的气 息，陈列着大 量涂 鸦 工具，同时也 提 供一系 列 精 选男式 和 女式 运 动 装。 运 动 装 打入 时装界 的 最 佳 范例 莫 过于其悄然 进 驻 多 家 柏 林备 受 推崇的时装 概 念店。因 现代 原创男装而 广受 当地 时尚人 士喜爱的男装商场 Soto，彪马和 阿迪 达 斯 等运 动品牌 与 Dries Van Noten、Acne Studios 和 Raf Simons等时装大 牌同场竞 技。一 起 亮 相的还 有

Filling Pieces和 Eytys这两大 追 随者如云的新兴运 动 鞋 专业品牌。如此 看来，运 动服 饰 做 为日常装 束，还 会 大有气候。

36: Cool Concepts 酷炫理念 柏 林 最 优秀 的 精品店 不 单 单 提 供 诱人 的商品，还 有更 多精 彩。William Lee Adams带 您 探 索将 购 物 体 验 推 至 新 高度的 概 念商店 从 恣意 狂 欢 的 夜 生活 到自由奔放 的 艺 术创作 盛 景，柏 林因其兼 容 并 蓄的 城 市风 格而闻名于 世。柏 林 的时装 覆 必 须以严肃冷 酷、井 然 有序 的形式 展现 时尚的 刻 板 观 点。相反，舒 适 的环 境 和 古怪 的风 格大 行其道，零售 店 纷 纷摇 身成 为休闲 体 验 店，邀请 顾客 随 意 浏览、驻 足徘 徊。 “ 我们 希望 打造 出一 种自由的氛围，让客人 尽情探 索 我们展 示 和 提 供 的所有设 计 和 作品，而 不 会有强制 globalblue.cn

PHOTO: BERT HOUBRECHTS

界亦是 如此。高端 精品店正在 抛弃庄 严 的仪 式 感，颠

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款 型。” 在 Bless也可以体 验到这 般轻松 怡人 的气 氛。这 家 备 受 推崇的 德国品牌 坐落 在高档的米 特区（ Mitte）和

料 再 现以往 的经典作品，推 陈出新，并且添 加些 符 合

充 满 艺 术风情 的普 伦茨 劳贝格区（ Prenzlauer Berg）

潮 流 的细 节。”并不只有 时尚界人 士才会留意 大 胆前

的 交界 处，深 藏 于 一栋 居民 楼三楼 的 一 间公寓中。顾

卫、紧跟 潮 流 的 设 计。部 分亮丽围巾、印 花 T恤 和 针 织

客不 但会感 觉仿佛 漫 步 于某 个波西米 亚 风情 的 私 人住

衫 在 公寓的开放 式 衣 橱 和 衣 架 上亮 相 之前，曾在巴 黎

宅，他们 实际 上 正 是 身处其中。

现代艺 术 博 物 馆 和 蓬 皮 杜中心展 出。

摄 影 师 Bert Houbrechts就住 在 公寓中，他会为客

在 柏 林 的 The Store精品店，您 也可以感受 到家

人 端 上一杯 茶，邀请 他们 坐下来 聊 聊 天。每周六，还 有

一 般 的 温 馨。The Store位于 Soho House私 人俱 乐

来自日本 的发 型 师 提 供 美 发 服 务。“ 我们 想要 吸引那 些

部，迎 接 八 方来 客，既 接 待入住 俱 乐 部 酒店 的贵宾，也

想 找个 地 方 静 静欣 赏作品的客人，而 不是 开成一家商

欢 迎 关注时尚的当地 人前来消磨 时间。这个 综 合 性 的

店 — — 客人可以漫不经心地 随 意 浏览，”创意 总监 Ines

零售场所 设 计风 格 偏 近 于 私 人住宅，集 美 食、时尚、艺

Kaag表 示。几 年 前，她 将 Bless搬 出了相 对传 统 的旧

术展览、共 享 办 公空间和 摄 影展于 一 体，邀请 顾客 在

址。“ 我们 认 为，搬 到私 人场所 可以营造 出相逢与 相识

占地 2800平方米 的超 大 空间度 过 悠闲时光。

的乐趣。”

精心 打造 的时装 区荟 萃了 The Row、Issey Miyake和 Proenza Schouler等品牌。时尚人 士可以在

该品牌 在 1997年 崭露头角，当时 Martin

PHOTO: REBECCA CRAWFORD

循传 统 的 方 式，” Kaag说 道，并 指出公寓内到处 都 是 过去和当前 季度的单品。“ 我们 每 个季度会以不同的面

Margiela让 秀台上 的 模 特 戴 上了由毛皮制成 的 Bless

数不胜 数 的隐 蔽 角落一 边品尝 香 醇 拿铁，一 边翻 看 光

假 发。这个 天马 行空的品牌 一举成 名，独 特 的 设 计突

鲜 亮丽的茶 几读 物 和杂 志。几乎所有 的 一 切都 可供出

破了风 格 的界 限，在 时尚、美容 、内饰 和 艺 术领 域佳 作

售 — — 无 论 是演 奏 的音乐、燃 烧 的蜡 烛，还 是客人“血

频出。自诞 生以 来，品牌凭借 无限 创作灵 感，主 打中性

拼 ”后休息的 沙发。购买之前，您可以在 时尚 靓丽且 无

服 饰，推 出了 驼 色 开司米 连 帽大 衣，融 合了日光 橙 和 玫

比舒 适 的环 境中试 用和 享受商品。虽然 快 速便 捷 的 在

瑰 粉 的亮 眼围巾，还 有色 彩迷 人 的针 织套头衫，包括

线 购 物为实体店 带来了一定 威 胁，但有些 体 验 是 无法

鲜 橙、天 空 蓝 和 棕 色等。

在 屏幕上 复制的。凭借 着 亲 切 友 好 的服 务、顾客至 上

传 统 的时装大 牌 每 个季度 都力求 推倒 重 来，但

Bless却崇尚顺 其自然 地 发 展。“ 我们 在 创作 时 没有遵

的理 念 和 新 颖 独 到的 创意，柏 林 最 好 的 精品店似乎已 经牢 牢 掌 握 让 普 通客人变 成回头客 的奥 秘。

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62: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购 物区中的 30多万家商店消费时，环 球 蓝 联 购 物 退 税 服 务（ Global Blue Tax Free

Shopping）为 您 节省购 物 开 销。 每 年大 约有两千六百多万名旅客 享用 环 球 蓝 联 （ Global Blue）的购 物 退 税 服 务，何不加入他们 的 行 列？您只需 在 购 物 时留意 环 球 蓝 联（ Global Blue）的 蓝 星标 志，或 直 接问询商家是 否 提 供环 球 蓝 联 （ Global Blue）退 税 服 务，然 后 遵 循以下简单 的退 税 流 程即 可：

1. 购 物 消费 无 论 您 在 哪里 购 物，请向商家索要 环 球 蓝 联 退 税 表格 （ Global Blue Tax Free Form），并 保存 票 据。

2. 申领 退 税 在 您 返 程离境前，请 前 往 海 关柜台，出示 退 税 表格和 相关 票 据，获 取海 关印章，然 后再到 环 球 蓝 联 的退 税 点领 取 退 税 款。 联 系方 式：

taxfree@ globalblue. com + 421 232 111 111 最 低消费 € 25即 可申请 退 税，能 够 节省高达购买 商品 价14. 5%的税。请注 意：您 收 到的退 税 款 是 增 值 税减去 环 球 蓝 联 的手 续 费。如果您 选 择 现 金 退 税，部 分机 场 还 将以 退 税申请 表 为单位收取 现 金 退 税手 续 费。

32: Word On The Street Голос улиц Спортивная одежда стала униформой улиц, и это заметили все: от международных корпораций до нишевых брендов. Доминик Фенн пытается понять секрет такой популярности, в том числе на модной сцене Берлина Три полоски на спортивных штанах; плавная галочка на хлопчатобумажной футболке; лавровый венок, вышитый на рубашке-поло и нашивка с двумя пуговицами на куртке – все это отличительные знаки популярных спортивных брендов, ставших для многих повседневной одеждой. globalblue.cn | globalblue.ru

Вы без труда смогли бы узнать любую из этих фирм – Adidas, Nike, Fred Perry или Stone Island. Бренды стали униформой нестандартного и символом принадлежности. Их в первую очередь носят тинейджеры, которые хотят выделиться и влиться в компанию. Социальная сфера и молодежная культура тесно переплетены, и представители новых поколений каждый раз пытаются найти новый способ для самовыражения. Выбор определенного стиля – это своего рода обряд посвящения, как для панков, так и для последователей модов и неформалов 1970-х и 80-х. Однако в последние годы не только молодежь старается перенять последние тренды. Спортивная и уличная мода сливаются воедино по мере того, как дизайнеры и

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

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PHOTO: ROBERT WUNSCH

покупатели начинают избегать традиционной классификации. Прошло не одно десятилетие с тех пор, как мы видели возрождение спортивных брендов, которые стали носить за пределами спортзалов и беговых дорожек. В 2015 году компания Adidas реализовала восемь миллионов пар кроссовок Stan Smiths по всему миру. Для справки: между 1973 годом, когда немецкий спортивный гигант впервые выпустил белые кроссовки для тенниса, и 2015 годом компания продала более 40 миллионов пар, согласно официальным данным. Возрождение интереса к кроссовкам в стиле ретро – лишь одна из причин таких показателей, в то время как значительную роль здесь также сыграли знаменитости, в том числе, французский дизайнер Фиби Фило из Céline, благодаря которой многие женщины стали носить обувь на плоской подошве. Среди других событий можно выделить популяризацию толстовки с капюшоном Givenchy Rottweiler, которая стала культовой и слегка размыла границу между мужской и женской одеждой. Затем мы могли наблюдать резкий взлет Демны Гвасалии в Vetements в 2014 году с толстовками свободного покроя и куртками-бомберами, которые были на вес золота. И вот настал 2017 год, и все подряд: от молодежи до редакторов моды, предвкушают выпуск новой коллекции Supreme, при этом некоторые даже занимают ради этого очередь, в которой приходится стоять всю ночь. Долгожданная коллаборация между Louis Vuitton и Supreme – в прошлом нишевого бренда – ознаменовала столкновение высокой

и хипстерской моды. Американский бренд The North Face до недавних пор был в основном популярен среди поклонников активных видов спорта, включая туристов, велосипедистов и всех любителей природы. После коллаборации с Supreme престиж бренда увеличился в мгновение ока. Марка профессионального спортивного снаряжения Patagonia когда-то была объектом внимания главным образом серьезных туристов, теперь же среди ее поклонников обычные городские жители. Таких примеров много, особенно в Берлине – городе, где вовсю кипит жизнь и процветают субкультуры, городе, известном своим либерализмом и альтернативной музыкой. Индивидуальный стиль здесь имеет выраженные черты панка. Хотя уличная одежда является своего рода универсальным языком, она подчеркивает нравы и оригинальность мышления. Для того, чтобы ориентироваться на рынке ретейлеров требуется немало сноровки. К счастью, в Берлине находится масса интересных независимых бутиков. Магазин No74 принадлежит компании Adidas, хотя догадываются об этом не многие. Здесь представлен широкий выбор коллекций Adidas и Y-3, а также обувь из коллаборационных коллекций Рафа Симонса и Рика Оуэнса. Тут часто проводят вечеринки, и тогда магазин на время превращается в английский паб.

Overkill – еще один популярный берлинский магазин спортивных товаров, где целая стена посвящена одним только кроссовкам. Управляющий магазина Томас Пайзер пользуется глубоким уважением в городе благодаря разнообразию ассортимента. Выбор впечатлят воображение и включает как классические, так и новые модели от таких фаворитов, как Nike, Adidas и Puma, а также от брендов, которые только недавно обрели популярность, например, Asics и Onitsuka Tiger. Судя по убранству и граффити на стенах, бутик имеет тесные связи с миром стрит-арта, а также предлагает хороший выбор спортивной одежды для мужчин и женщин. Пожалуй, лучшим примером интеграции спортивной одежды в мировую индустрию моды является включение ряда брендов в ассортимент лучших берлинских концепт-сто-

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36: Cool Concepts Стильные концепции Лучшие бутики в Берлине предлагают увлекательный шоппинг и не только. Уильям Ли Адамс делает обзор концептуальных магазинов, предлагающих совершенно новый уровень обслуживания От стильных ночных клубов до галерей современного искусства: Берлин приобрел репутацию города, который не привык следовать правилам. То же самое можно сказать и о местной моде. Дорогие бутики стараются избавиться от формальностей и правил, согласно которым роскошная одежда должна быть холодная, структурная и суровая. Вместо этого здесь преобладает комфорт и причудливость, благодаря чему торговые пространства превращаются в места для отдыха, где люди могут проводить долгое время. «Мы хотели создать атмосферу, которая позволит людям насладиться представленными вещами, не чувствуя при этом обязанности непременно что-то покупать, – говорит Герберт Хофманн, креативный директор Voo Store. – Здесь никто ни к чему не обязывает, а в интерьере отсутствует претенциозность, присущая модным бутикам». Магазин Voo Store, расположенный в районе Кройберг – центре контркультуры и искусства, занимает нижний этаж бывшей замочной мастерской. В помещении площадью 300 м2, окруженном неотделанными бетонными стенами, посетители могут насладиться вращающимися инсталляциями с работами самых разных мастеров, от globalblue.ru

плотников до художников ландшафтного дизайна, или же просто послушать музыку и полистать книги, коих здесь в изобилии. Все это доступно в отделе Companion Coffee, где подают один из самых изысканных кофе в городе. Беззаботная обстановка однако не означает ленивая. Креативная команда Voo обыскивает весь земной шар в поисках оригинальных вещиц, в числе которых можно встретить шикарные футболки, откровенные бикини и вечерние платья от таких брендов, как Nike, Adidas, Raf Simons и Marni. «Наши умы и сердца бьются в унисон с природой особенно в эти дни, – говорит Хофманн, приводя в пример скромный шерстяной свитер из коллекции Prada осень-зима 2017/18, как лучше всего характеризующий эстетику магазина. – Мы уделяем особое внимание мастерству, натуральным материалам и продуктам насколько это возможно. Основу наших коллекций составляют такие материалы, как лен, шерсть и все, что имеет долгий срок службы». Похожая беззаботная атмосфера царит в Bless – престижном немецком бренде,

PHOTO: BERT HOUBRECHTS

ров. В бутике мужской одежды Soto, популярном среди местных стиляг благодаря современному и оригинальному ассортименту, можно встретить такие бренды, как Dries Van Noten, Acne Studios и Raf Simons наряду со спортивными гигантами вроде Puma и Adidas. Здесь также представлены Filling Pieces и Eytys – две молодых компании по выпуску спортивной обуви. Похоже, что тенденция носить спортивную одежду в качестве повседневной продержится еще довольно долго.

®

The worldwide known specialist for traditional German Christmas decorations and unique handmade gifts.

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In 7 major tourist locations in Germany, always in the city center

The Christmas Shopping Experience Berlin · Kurfürstendamm 225/226

E

· worldwide shipping · · TAX FREE · Shopping from home visit our online-shop:

www.wohlfahrt.com

xperience in our year-round stores the love for traditions and beauty.

Discover throughout the year the largest selection of traditional German Christmas decorations like nutcrackers, Christmas pyramids, incense smokers, music boxes, light arches, Christmas tree ornaments made of glass, wood and pewter and much more in an enchanting atmosphere.

W

e also carry in our stores a large variety of German souvenirs, cuckoo clocks and

exclusive products from world-famous German brands as well as the lovely and handmade products from our own artist workshop, the “Rothenburger Weihnachtswerkstatt”.

D

on’t miss a visit to one of our stores in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Nuremberg, Oberammergau, Heidelberg, Bamberg, Miltenberg or Rüdesheim.

We are looking forward to your visit!

магазин которого расположен на третьем этаже жилого здания в обычной квартире, на границе районов Митте и Пренцлауэр-Берг. Посетителям не нужно ощущать, что они попали в чье-то богемное жилище, потому что так на самом деле и есть. Живет здесь фотограф Берт Хубрехтс, который встречает покупателей чашкой чая и усаживает их на диван для беседы. По субботам здесь даже можно подстричься у парикмахера из Японии. «Мы хотим пойти навстречу тем людям, которые хотят приобрести что-то в неформальной обстановке, где можно расслабиться», – говорит креативный директор Инес Кааг. Несколько лет назад она решила перебазировать Bless из более традиционного места: «Мы подумали, что переезд в домашнюю обстановку поможет создать ту атмосферу, которая приносит нам удовольствие». Бренд приобрел известность в 1997 году, когда Мартин Маржела использовал меховые

globalblue.ru

парики Bless для своего шоу-показа. Это дало отличный старт бренду, который размывает границы стилей и предлагает широкий ассортимент продукции самых разных направлений, включая одежду, косметику, а также предметы интерьера и искусства. Бренд в том числе стал популярен благодаря оригинальным андрогинным образам. Так в магазине можно обнаружить бежевые кашемировые пальто с капюшоном; яркие шарфы, сочетающие оранжевый с розовым; а также красочные трикотажные джемперы оранжевых, голубых и коричневых оттенков. В отличие от традиционных домов моды, которые зачастую пересматривают свои старые коллекции сезон за сезоном, марка Bless предпочитает развиваться гармонично. «Мы не выпускаем коллекции в их привычном понимании, – говорит Кааг, чей бутик наполнен вещами из прошлого и текущего сезона. – Мы определили для себя классические модели и с каждым сезоном просто меняем ткань и добавляем то, что считаем нужным». Креативные и постоянно эволюционирующие творения бренда попали в поле зрения отнюдь не только знатоков моды. Прежде чем оказаться на вешалках в магазине бренда, фирменные шарфы, футболки и свитера побывали на выставке в парижском Музее современного искусства и в Национальном центре искусства и культуры Жоржа Помпиду. Идея домашнего уюта оказалась также близкой по духу магазину The Store Berlin. Он расположен в здании частного клуба Soho House, но вход открыт всем: от знаменитостей, останавливающихся в отеле клуба, до местных, которые хотят интересно провести время. Это гибридное пространство площадью 2800 м2, спроектированное таким образом, чтобы напоминать уютный дом, приглашает посетителей в чудесную страну, в которой воедино смешалась еда, мода, арт-инсталляции, коворкинг и фотоэкспозиции. Секция одежды вмещает коллекции таких марок, как The Row, Issey Miyake и Proenza Schouler, кроме того, здесь предусмотрено множество укромных уголков, где хипстеры могут попить свое латте, листая книжку или журнал. Практически все представленное в

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

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‫أن تُعلّق يف خزانات الشقّة املفتوحة‪ُ ،‬عرضت بعض أوشحتها املذهلة‬ ‫وقمصانها املنقوشة وكنزاتها املحبوكة يف متحف ‪Musée d’Art‬‬ ‫‪ Moderne de la Ville de Paris‬و‪.Centre Pompidou‬‬ ‫محل لدى ‪The Store‬‬ ‫تتك ّرر فكرة الشعور يف املنزل داخل ّ‬ ‫‪ .Berlin‬يقع داخل النادي الخاص ‪ Soho House‬وهو متاح‬ ‫للجميع‪ ،‬من نزالء فندق النادي الرفيعي املستوى إىل املحليّني املتتبّعني‬ ‫املحل‬ ‫للموضة الذين يبحثون عن مكان لقضاء الوقت‪ .‬ص ّمم هذا ّ‬ ‫عىل هيئة منز ٍل خاص يدعو الز ّوار إىل التج ّول يف ‪ 2800‬مرتٍ مربّعٍ‬ ‫من الروعة حيث ميز’ مبهارة الطعام باألزياء والف ّن ومساحات العمل‬ ‫املشرتكة ومعارض الصور‪.‬‬ ‫يشمل قسم املالبس املختارة بعناية ابتكارات من ‪The Row‬‬ ‫و‪ Issey Miyake‬و‪ Proenza Schouler‬وغريها وميكن احتساء‬ ‫القهوة مع الحليب وتصفّح الكتب واملجالت يف عدّة زوايا‪ .‬يف الواقع‪،‬‬ ‫كل يشء للبيع يف هذا املكان‪ ،‬من املوسيقى املسموعة إىل الشموع‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫املشتعلة والكنبات التي يسرتيح عليها الز ّوار بعد جولة تس ّوق مط ّولة‪.‬‬ ‫يُقدّم هنا مبدأ تجربة الغرض قبل رشائه بطريقة مختلفة ومريحة‪.‬‬ ‫يف الوقت الذي تهدّد سهولة الرشاء عرب اإلنرتنت املحالت الفعليّة‪،‬‬ ‫ال ميكن اختبار بعض التجارب أمام الشاشة‪ .‬لكن يبدو أنّه من خالل‬ ‫املقاربات املبتكرة الصديقة للزبائن املعتمدة من قبل أفضل محالت‬ ‫برلني‪ ،‬وجدت هذه األخرية طريق ًة لضامن عودتنا إليها مر ّة بعد أخرى‪.‬‬ ‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 62‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الرضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكرث من‬ ‫‪ 300,000‬متجر يف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العامل‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ال تنض ّم إىل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫دفع الرضيبة من خالل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫عليك إال أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫أينام تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عىل طلب اسرتداد الرضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصاالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫يف طريق العودة إىل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجامرك عند نقطة‬ ‫املغادرة لتتم املصادقة عىل إيصاالتك قبل قبض االسرتداد من أحد‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫مكاتب االسرتداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لالتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪111 111 232 +421‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدىن قدره ‪ €25‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14.5%‬من مثن مشرتياتك‪.‬‬

‫يشمل مبلغ االسرتداد النهايئ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الرضيبة‬ ‫عىل القيمة املضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬يف بعض املطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض‬ ‫رسم خدمة نقدي عىل كل طلب اسرتداد ضيبة يف حال رغبت‬ ‫بالحصول عىل اسرتداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫‪залах можно купить: начиная от музыки и‬‬ ‫‪свечек и заканчивая гостевыми диванами. Это‬‬ ‫‪дает прекрасную возможность ознакомиться с‬‬ ‫‪товаром перед покупкой.‬‬ ‫‪Доступность интернет-шоппинга угрожает‬‬ ‫‪обычным магазинам, однако последние не‬‬ ‫‪сдаются, предлагая уникальный опыт, который‬‬ ‫‪не получится воспроизвести на экране‬‬ ‫‪электронного устройства. Похоже, что лучшие‬‬ ‫‪берлинские бутики с их теплой, дружеской‬‬ ‫‪атмосферой и индивидуальным подходом‬‬ ‫‪нашли способ, как заставить покупателей‬‬ ‫‪возвращаться к ним снова и снова.‬‬ ‫‪62: When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free‬‬ ‫‪Совершая покупки по всему миру,‬‬ ‫‪совершайте их с Tax Free‬‬ ‫‪Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят‬‬ ‫‪вам сэкономить на покупках в более чем‬‬ ‫‪300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых‬‬ ‫‪лучших шоппинг районах мира.‬‬ ‫‪Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26‬‬ ‫‪миллионам путешественников, совершающих‬‬ ‫?‪покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год‬‬ ‫‪Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите‬‬ ‫‪о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным‬‬ ‫‪инструкциям.‬‬ ‫‪1. В магазине‬‬ ‫‪Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите‬‬ ‫‪Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.‬‬ ‫‪2. При выезде‬‬ ‫‪Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления,‬‬ ‫‪пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить‬‬ ‫‪ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из‬‬ ‫‪наших офисов.‬‬ ‫‪Контакты:‬‬ ‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫‪Потратьте минимум 25 евро и сэкономьте до‬‬ ‫‪14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста,‬‬ ‫‪примите к сведению, что конечная сумма‬‬ ‫‪возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус‬‬ ‫‪административная комиссия. В некоторых‬‬ ‫‪аэропортах при возврате наличными‬‬ ‫‪взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.‬‬

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‫املبسط كذلك لدى العالمة األملانيّة العريقة ‪Bless‬‬ ‫يسود الطابع ّ‬

‫من حياتها اللّيليّة الصاخبة إىل ساحتها الفنيّة املتح ّررة‪ ،‬تُعرف برلني‬ ‫الواقعة يف شقّة يف الطابق الثالث من مبنى سكني عىل الحدود بني‬ ‫تتخىل‬ ‫مبخالفة القواعد‪ .‬وينطبق ذلك أيضاً عىل ساحة األزياء فيها‪ّ .‬‬ ‫منطقة ‪ Mitte‬الراقية و‪ Prenzlauer Berg‬الفنيّة‪ .‬ال يشعر الز ّوار‬ ‫محالتها الفاخرة عن األسلوب الرسمي وتناقض الفكرة السا“دة‬ ‫أنّهم يتج ّولون يف منز ٍل بوهيمي فحسب‪ ،‬بل إنّهم يف هكذا منزل عن‬ ‫برضورة أن تقرتن األناقة بالربودة والتنظيم الهيكل والقساوة‪ .‬بل‬ ‫حق‪ .‬هنا تعيش املص ّورة ‪ Bert Houbrechts‬وتستقبل الز ّوار‬ ‫تعتمد األسلوب املريح والغريب مح ِّول ًة مساحاتها إىل أماكن تسلية‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بكوب من الشاي وتدعوهم للجلوس والتحدّث‪ .‬كام يأيت إىل املكان‬ ‫حيث ميكن األشخاص التج ّول وقضاء بعض الوقت‪ .‬يقول ‪Herbert‬‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫لقص الشعر أيّام السبت‪ .‬تقول املص ّممة االبتكاريّة‬ ‫‪ ،Hofmann‬املدير االبتكاري ملتجر ‪“ :Voo Store‬أردنا أن نبتكر‬ ‫مصفّف شع ٍر ياباين ّ‬ ‫وكل ما نعرضه ‪“ :Ines Kaag‬نريد الوصول إىل أشخاص يبحثون عن مكانٍ ميكنهم‬ ‫مساحة حيث يشعر الناس بالحريّة الستكشاف التصاميم ّ‬ ‫ونقدّمه من دون أن يشعروا بوجوب رشاء يشء ما‪ .‬ال منارس أي ضغوط أن يروا فيه ما لدينا‪ ،‬من دون أن يكون محالً – حيث يتج ّول الزبا“ن‬ ‫أحياناً بدون تركيز”‪ .‬انتقلت من مكانٍ تقليدي إىل ‪ Bless‬منذ بضع‬ ‫وال نوحي بالفخامة الفا“قة‪”.‬‬ ‫خاص‪ ،‬قد نحظى باللّقاء‬ ‫يقع متجر ‪ Voo‬يف منطقة ‪ Kreuzberg‬املرصوفة بالحىص‬ ‫سنوات وتقول‪“ :‬شعرنا أنّه باالنتقال إىل موقعٍ ّ‬ ‫وهي مركز للثقافة املضادة والف ّن‪ ،‬يشغل الطابق األريض من مبنى كان الذي نتمناه‪”.‬‬ ‫برزت العالمة عىل الساحة سنة ‪ 1997‬عندما أرسل ‪Martin‬‬ ‫يف السابق مصنعاً لألقفال‪ .‬وسط ‪ 300‬مرتٍ مربّع من الجدران اإلسمنتيّة‬ ‫املنصة بباروكات العالمة من الفرو‪.‬‬ ‫مبجسامت تستدير‬ ‫‪ Margiela‬عارضات أزياء عىل ّ‬ ‫الخام وباحة شاسعة‪ ،‬ميكن الز ّوار إمتاع نظرهم ّ‬ ‫فشكّلت بداية مالمئة لهذه العالمة الفريدة من نوعها‪ ،‬والتي تبدّد‬ ‫ورسامي مناظر طبيعيّة أو االستامع إىل‬ ‫من ابتكار مص ّممي أخشاب ّ‬ ‫حدود التألّق بتصاميمها‪ ،‬فتقدّم ابتكارات يف مجاالت األزياء والتجميل‬ ‫كل ذلك متاح يف مقهى ‪Voo‬‬ ‫املوسيقى واالطّالع عىل الكتب الكثرية‪ّ .‬‬ ‫والتصميم الداخل والف ّن‪ .‬ومذّاك‪ ،‬استم ّرت يف اإللهام من خالل مالبس‬ ‫الشهري ‪ Companion Coffee‬حيث تُقدّم القهوة األشهى يف‬ ‫مناسبة للجنسني تشمل معاطف من الكشمري بلون الب ّني املصف ّر‬ ‫املدينة‪.‬‬ ‫مز ّودة بقبّعات؛ وأوشحة ملفتة لألنظار متزج ألواناً كالربتقايل الناصع‬ ‫إال أ ّن هذا االسرتخاء ال يعني الكسل‪ .‬يجوب فريق ‪ Voo‬العامل‬ ‫والزهر الوري؛ وكنزات محبوكة ذات ألوانٍ متألّقة كالربتقايل املحروق‬ ‫باحثاً عن الكنوز فيجمع تشكيلة را“عة من التيشتس األنيقة ومالبس‬ ‫السباحة املثرية وفساتني السهرة امللهمة من عالمات تتن ّوع بني ‪ Nike‬واألزرق الساموي والب ّني‪.‬‬ ‫عىل عكس دور األزياء التقليديّة التي تسعى بالعادة إىل إعادة‬ ‫و‪ Adidas‬و‪ Raf Simons‬و‪.Marni‬‬ ‫ابتكار نفسها من موسمٍ إىل آخر‪ ،‬تفضّ ل ‪ Bless‬أن تزدهر رويدا ً رويدا ً‪.‬‬ ‫يقول ‪“ :Hofmann‬قلوبنا وعقولنا قريبة ج ّدا ً من الطبيعة‬ ‫تقول ‪ Kaag‬يف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬ال نطلق املجموعات عىل الطريقة‬ ‫بشكلٍ عا ّم وحتّى أقرب هذه األيّام”‪ ،‬ويعطي مثاالً عن هذا األسلوب‬ ‫الكالسيكيّة” مشري ًة إىل وجود قطعٍ من مواسم قدمية وجديدة يف‬ ‫مستعيناً بكنزة صوفيّة ذي ياقة عىل هيئة عالمة نرص من مجموعة‬ ‫كل موسم بأقمشة‬ ‫الشقّة‪“ .‬حاولنا ابتكار قطعٍ كالسيكيّة جديدة تتك ّرر ّ‬ ‫‪ Prada‬لخريف‪/‬شتاء ‪ .2017/2018‬يضيف‪“ :‬نركّز قدر املستطاع‬ ‫مختلفة ونضيف إليها أي يشء يطرأ‪ ”.‬تجدر اإلشارة إىل أ ّن التصاميم‬ ‫عىل املهارة واملواد واملنتجات املستخرجة طبيعيّاً‪ .‬منيل إىل مواد عىل‬ ‫الجريئة واملتط ّورة أبدا ً لدى العالمة ال تجذب ر ّواد املوضة فحسب‪ .‬قبل‬ ‫سبيل الكتّان والصوف وإىل أساليب ال تفنى مع مرور الوقت‪”.‬‬

‫‪PHOTO: KIRCHNER KUTT‬‬

‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪73‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪Word On The Street :32‬‬

‫حديث الشارع‬

‫الزي امل ُعتمد يف الشارع اليوم‪ ،‬لدى العالمات‬ ‫املالبس الرياضيّة هي ّ‬

‫التجاريّة العامليّة وتلك الصغرية عىل ح ّد سواء‪ .‬تسلّط ‪Dominique‬‬ ‫‪ Fenn‬الضوء عىل رواجها الواسع ومكانتها يف ساحة األزياء الربلينيّة‬

‫ٍ‬ ‫خطوط عىل بدلة رياضيّة؛ إشارة “صح” عىل قميص قطني؛ إكليل‬ ‫ثالثة‬ ‫من الغار مط ّرز عىل صدر قميص بولو وشارة ُمعلّقة عىل ك ّم كنزة‬ ‫بز ّرين مل ّاعني؛ كلّها عالمات فارقة ألسامء تجاريّة شهرية ذي ٍ‬ ‫إرث ريايض‪،‬‬ ‫تجدها يف شوارعنا كجزء من اإلطاللة اليوميّة‪.‬‬ ‫ال ّ‬ ‫شك أنّك أدركت أّنّها شعارات ‪ Adidas‬و‪ Nike‬و‪Fred‬‬ ‫زي من ال‬ ‫‪ Perry‬و‪ .Stone Island‬هكذا عالمات تجاريّة هي ّ‬ ‫زي له ورم ٌز لالنتامء غالباً ما يعتمد املراهقون هذه العالمات املوثوقة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫باحثني عن طريقة للتميّز واالندماج‪ .‬مث ّة تداخل بني البيئة االجتامعيّة‬ ‫كل جيل جديد التعبري عن أنفسهم‬ ‫والثقافة الشبابيّة‪ ،‬ويحاول أبناء ّ‬ ‫بطريقة مختلفة‪ .‬بالتايل‪ ،‬أن تجد املجموعة التي ستنتمي إليها من حيث‬ ‫األسلوب‪ ،‬هو أحد املراحل االنتقاليّة يف الحياة‪ ،‬كام جرى مع البانك‬ ‫واملود ريفايفل والكاجوالز يف السبعينات والثامنينات‪.‬‬ ‫إال أنّه م” ّخرا ً‪ ،‬مل تعد املوضة حكرا ً عىل الشباب‪ .‬تندمج املالبس‬ ‫الرياضيّة مبالبس الشارع أكرث فأكرث‪ ،‬فيام يبتعد املص ّممون والزبا“ن‬ ‫عىل ح ّد سواء عن التصنيف التقليدي لألزياء‪ .‬مل ن َر منذ عقود هكذا‬ ‫املختصة باملالبس الرياضيّة خارج املالعب وغرف تغيري‬ ‫بروز للعالمات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫املالبس‪.‬‬ ‫بحسب التقارير‪ ،‬باعت ‪ Adidas‬سنة ‪ 2015‬ما يزيد عن‬ ‫مثانية ماليني زوجاً من حذاء ‪ Stan Smiths‬حول العامل‪ .‬زد عىل‬ ‫أنّه بني سنة ‪ ،1973‬عندما أطلقت عمالقة املالبس الرياضيّة األملانيّة‬ ‫الحذاء األبيض الشهري وسنة ‪ ،2015‬باعت أكرث من أربعني مليون زوجاً‪،‬‬ ‫بحسب أرقامها الرسميّة‪ .‬يُعزى ذلك جز“يّاً إىل رواج األحذية الرياضيّة‬ ‫بأسلوب الريرتو مجدّدا ً وانتعال املشاهري أحذية متواضعة‪ ،‬عىل سبيل‬ ‫‪ Phoebe Philo‬املديرة االبتكاريّة لـ ‪ ،Céline‬ما ش ّجع النساء‬ ‫املجاريات للموضة عىل انتعال أحذية بدون كعب‪.‬‬ ‫من األمثلة األخرى يف هذا املجال كنزة ‪ Rottweiler‬املز ّودة‬ ‫بقبّعة من ‪ Givenchy‬والتي باتت قطعة مطلوبة للغاية‪ ،‬فقدّمت‬ ‫إطاللة مريحة وألغت التباين بني املالبس النسا“يّة والرجاليّة‪ .‬وبالطبع‪،‬‬ ‫ملع بعد ذلك سنة ‪ 2014‬إسم املص ّمم ‪ Demna Gvasalia‬لدى‬ ‫‪ ،Vetements‬فباتت الكنزات الواسعة والسرتات املنفوخة مرغوبة‬ ‫كالذهب‪ .‬واليوم يف العام ‪ ،2017‬نرى الجميع من مراهقني إىل مح ّرري‬ ‫نصوص أزياء‪ ،‬بانتظار آخر ابتكارات ‪ ،Supreme‬ويف املدن الكربى‬ ‫يقف بعض محبّي العالمة يف الطابور لساعات وأحياناً طوال اللّيل‬ ‫للحصول عىل أحدث قطعة‪ .‬الواقع أنّه نتيجة التعاون الذي ارتقبه‬ ‫الناس طويالً بني ‪ Louis Vuitton‬و‪ ،Supreme‬التي كانت‬ ‫عالمة صغرية غري معروفة‪ ،‬حصل هذا تزاوج بني األزياء الفاخرة واألزياء‬ ‫الرا“جة‪.‬‬ ‫املختصة‬ ‫لطاملا كانت الشكة األمريكيّة ‪The North Face‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫مبالبس الرياضات الخارجيّة من العالمات املفضّ لة لدى مامريس رياضة‬ ‫السري يف الطبيعة وركوب الد ّراجات الهوا“يّة وغريها من النشاطات‬ ‫الخارجيّة‪ .‬لكن بعد تعاونها مع ‪ ،Supreme‬تضاعفت أرقامها بني‬

‫املختصة مبالبس الرياضات‬ ‫ليل ٍة وضحاها‪ .‬أ ّما عالمة ‪،Patagonia‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بحسها االجتامعي‪ ،‬فكانت من العالمات التي يقع خيار‬ ‫التقنيّة واملميّزة ّ‬ ‫املستكشفني املحرتفني عليها ليس أكرث‪ ،‬وباتت تجذب اليوم الكثري من‬ ‫سكّان املدن‪.‬‬ ‫وبخاصة يف برلني‪ ،‬هذه املدينة الحيويّة‬ ‫مل تنفجر الفقاعة بعد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التي تكرث فيها الثقافات الفرعيّة وتُعرف بطابعها املتح ّرر وحياتها‬ ‫اللّيليّة املختلفة‪ .‬لألسلوب الفردي فيها طابع خاص‪ .‬عىل الرغم من‬ ‫تح ّول مالبس الشارع إىل لغة عامليّة‪ ،‬يكمن أثرها الحقيقي يف طابعها‬ ‫وفلسفتها‪ .‬يتطلّب تصفّح سوق إعادة البيع عرب اإلنرتنت‪ ،‬قسطاً كبريا ً‬ ‫من االلتزام‪ .‬لكن لحسن الحظ‪ ،‬تض ّم برلني بعض أبرز املحالت املستقلّة‬ ‫محل ‪ No74‬وقلّة من الناس يعرفون ذلك‪.‬‬ ‫يف العامل‪ .‬متتلك ‪ّ Adidas‬‬ ‫يض ّم تشكيلة كبرية من تصاميم ‪ Adidas‬و‪ Y-3‬ومن املمكن أن تجد‬ ‫كل األحذية الناتجة عن تعاون ‪ Raf Simons‬و‪.Rick Owens‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كام تُنظّم فيه السهرات ويُح ّول إىل حانة إنجليزيّة لليل ٍة واحدة‪.‬‬ ‫محل ‪ Overkill‬جدارا ً كامالً لألحذية الرياضيّة وهو‬ ‫يخصص ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫من األماكن التي ال ب ّد من زيارتها يف برلني إن كنت تبحث عن هذا‬ ‫النوع من األحذية‪ .‬يحظى مديره التنفيذي ‪Thomas Peiser‬‬ ‫بشهرة كبرية يف املدينة‪ ،‬نظرا ً لوفرة املوجودات‪ .‬تشكيلة التصاميم ملفتة‬ ‫لألنظار وتشمل موديالت كالسيكيّة وجديدة من عالمات ذا“عة الصيت‬ ‫عىل سبيل ‪ Nike‬و‪ Adidas‬و‪ Puma‬جنباً إىل جنب عالمات‬ ‫املحل‬ ‫اشتهرت م”خرا ً مثل ‪ Asics‬و‪ .Onitsuka Tiger‬يرتبط ّ‬ ‫ارتباطاً وثيقاً بف ّن األرصفة ويظهر ذلك من خالل ما يحوي من معدّات‬ ‫لرسم الغرافيتي ومجموعة مالبس رياضيّة رجاليّة ونسا“يّة‪.‬‬ ‫ّرمبا خري دليل عىل اندماج املالبس الرياضيّة يف عامل األزياء‬ ‫هو تسلّلها إىل قامئة العالمات التجاريّة يف بعض أفخر متاجر األزياء‬ ‫األحب عىل‬ ‫العرصيّة يف برلني‪ .‬لدى عمالق املالبس الرجاليّة ‪ّ ،Soto‬‬ ‫قلوب ر ّواد املوضة املحليّني بفضل مفهومه الحديث والجديد حول‬ ‫منصات األزياء مبا فيها ‪Dries Van‬‬ ‫مالبس الرجال‪ ،‬تجد عالمات ّ‬ ‫‪ Noten‬و‪ Acne Studios‬و‪ Raf Simons‬جنباً إىل جنب‬ ‫‪ Puma‬و‪ Adidas‬وأمثالهام‪ .‬وتجد كذلك عالمتي ‪Filling‬‬ ‫املختصتني باألحذية الرياضيّة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ Pieces‬و‪ Eytys‬اليافعتني املرغوبتني‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بالتايل‪ ،‬يبدو أن موضة ارتداء املالبس الرياضيّة كل يوم ُوجدت لتبقى‪.‬‬ ‫‪Cool Concepts :36‬‬

‫مفاهيم ُمبتكرة‬

‫تقدّم أفضل املحالت يف برلني عروضاً ُمغرية وأكرث‪ .‬يستكشف‬ ‫‪ William Lee Adams‬املتاجر املبتكرة التي ترتقي بتجربة‬ ‫التس ّوق يف املدينة إىل مستوى جديد بالكامل‬

SCENT OF THE SEASON Frau Tonis Parfum, founded

by Stefanie Hanssen and Christoph Niedermeier in Berlin’s Kreuzberg creative hub in 2009, offers unique, exotic, vegan-friendly

fragrances. The 19 Oud Weiss perfume is perfect for autumn and winter, with woody notes of bergamot, sandalwood and cedar accented with amber and tobacco. As well as discovering the new fragrance, you can also blend a bespoke scent of your own with the help of the knowledgeable experts

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 62

at a Frau Tonis fragrance workshop – a perfect gift or souvenir. xd Frau Tonis Parfum Oud Weiss fragrance, 50ml, €85, Frau Tonis Parfum, Zimmerstrasse 13, 10969 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2021 5310, frau-tonis-parfum.com

PHOTO: NADINE ZILLIGES

SOUVEN I R

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Shirts with Tech Prep™. Presentable performance made with technical fabrics to keep you dry, cool and on the move.

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Porsche Design Timepieces

MONOBLOC ACTUATOR GMT-CHRONOTIMER | Black & Rubber Designed by Studio F. A. Porsche.

Swiss Made.

T H E N E W M O N O B LO C AC T UAT O R INSPIRED BY OUR PASSION FOR MOTORSPORT

www.porsche-design.com/timepieces Porsche Design Berlin | Kurfürstendamm 48–49