SHOP Berlin AW17

BERLIN | 柏林 | БЕРЛИН | ‫برلني‬

BERLIN Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2017/18

DISCOVER BERLIN: the German capital, home to luxury stores and exciting boutiques, is the country’s main fashion hub

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name

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manufactories. You will find WEMPE

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it, so you can be certain that we will

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THE SWISS HOUSE OF WATCHES AND FINE JEWELLERY Switzerland

Germany

Vienna

Copenhagen

Paris

Brand selection may vary.

WELCOME TO KADEWE BERLINâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ONE-STOP LUXURY SHOPPING

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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens & Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen 捷克

Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫أملانيا‬ 德国

Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Helsinki Area

Welcome to Berlin

Holland

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this free-spirited European capital. Berlin has much to offer, as our guide on page 47 reveals. In this issue we explore the role of streetwear on the city’s fashion scene – and further afield (page 32). Readers who appreciate friendly, quirky, original boutiques will also enjoy our feature on Berlin’s best concept stores (page 36). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Berlin. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without filling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

Istanbul Italy Japan Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Oslo Paris 巴黎

Portugal Prague Rome SE Finland Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna

Чехия

Emma Cheevers /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Singapore

In the mood for fashion?

Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices. visit us: www.c-a.com facebook.com/ca Berlin: Kurfürstendamm 227-229 • Alexanderplatz 1 • Leipziger Platz 12/13 • Steglitz, Schlossstraße 17a

Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам. . .

CONTRIBUTORS

Dominique Fenn Dominique Fenn is a writer and creative consultant specialising in luxury fashion and lifestyle. She currently works for Fred Perry and has previously contributed to the Dazed group, I-D magazine and Anothermag.com. globalblue.com

William Lee Adams London-based journalist William Lee Adams is a former correspondent for Time magazine. He has also contributed to Newsweek, InStyle, Condé Nast Traveler, Monocle and GQ, among other publications.

Julia Spaeth German-born Julia Spaeth, SHOP’s production assistant, holds a degree in media communications from Regent’s University London. She enjoys the cinema, travelling and discovering London’s hidden gems.

ILLUSTRATION: PIETARI POSTI; PHOTO: (RIGHT) TRAN CHAU TU

Pietari Posti Pietari Posti created this season’s cover artwork for SHOP Berlin. His elegant, witty graphic style was the perfect choice for this illustration, which shows Berlin’s Brandenburg Gate supported by a line of fashionably dressed models. Pietari’s other clients include Starbucks and the New York Times. Discover SHOP Berlin and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Pietari Posti Contributors Dominique Fenn, William Lee Adams Acting production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion and lifestyle writer Rebecca Rhys-Evans News editor Ginger Rose Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Hayley Moseley Artworking assistants Shirley Lau, Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Acting online managing editor Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener Human resources and office assistant Anjali Kapoor

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Head of commercial Europe/ Latin America Pier Francesco Nervini Head of commercial central Europe Ronald Christen Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialists Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko Sales manager Pino Dufter Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Berlin Tourismus & Kongress GmbH, Am Karlsbad 11, 10785 Berlin, +49 (0)30 250025, visitberlin.de

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistant Inga Abramian Marketing intern Joanna Dodge Digital production assistant Linda Hau Production assistant Chris Bigg

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2017 Global Blue

MALL OF BERLIN BEST OF SHOPPING MORE THAN 300 SHOPS ICONIC BRANDS DELICIOUS FOOD HALL

LP12 Mall of Berlin | Leipziger Platz 12 | 10117 Berlin Fon +49302062177-0 | www.mallofberlin.de | facebook.com/mallofberlin Opening Hours: Monday - Saturday 10am - 9pm

M a r c Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; P o l o

CONTENTS PAGE

FEATURES

Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Berlin this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

NEWS 28

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Berlin News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

Word On The Street From global brands to niche labels, sportswear is the uniform of the street. Dominique Fenn reports on its wide appeal – and its central place on Berlin’s fashion scene Cool Concepts Berlin’s best concept stores take the city’s shopping experience to a whole new level. William Lee Adams recommends the best

PAGE

Above (from top): The Store Berlin; Supreme, formerly a niche, underground label, is now a popular streetwear favourite

PHOTOS: (TOP) KIRCHNER KUTT; (BOTTOM) © GORUNWAY.COM

PRODUCTS

It’s a lot more fun, if it’s tax free! Grand Gourmet | Knife set 5 pieces

Gourmet Plus | Cookware set 7 pieces

with WMF Performance Cut®

RSP € 384,75

RSP € 789,90

now € 289,-*

now € 499,-*

You find us at:

WMF Stores Berlin

*sum of the prices

www.wmf.com

Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12, Shop 0.26, Tel. 030 / 20143325 ALEXA Shopping Center, Grunerstr. 20, Tel. 030 / 23455925 Potsdamer-Platz-Arkaden, Tel. 030 / 25297218 Mitte, Friedrichstr. 185-190, Tel. 030 / 20214625

CONTENTS EXPERIENCE 42

PAGE

Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

GUIDE 47

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Berlin

ESSENTIALS 62

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS

SOUVENIR

63 66 73

中文翻译

Русский Перевод

The essential item to bring home

E NGL IS H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE...

Visit globalblue.com, our recently relaunched website, for the latest luxury shopping and travel stories, updated daily

访问我们近日新版上线的网站 globalblue.cn, 了解最新奢华购物旅游信息，每日更新 FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent

Above: authentic Japanese food at Zenkichi

PHOTOS: (TOP) HIROSHI TOYODA; (BOTTOM) MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

Погрузитесь в мир роскошного шоппинга и увлекательных путешествий, посетив наш обновлённый сайт – globalblue.ru

KURFÜRSTENDAMM 217 MÜNZSTRASSE 21- 23 BERLIN

SMOOTH TRIP Prestigious shaving accessories brand Mühle has always celebrated this most masculine ritual, and is now making it ultra-easy for men to remain well-groomed while on the move. The latest additions to the Mühle range are high-quality travel toiletry cases for men. The larger version (pictured),

handcrafted in Germany, features a spacious interior sleeve designed to organise your shaving kit, with plenty of room for brushes, razors and skincare products such as Mühle’s Organic range, which is certified as allnatural. Carefully crafted in vegetable-tanned leather, the bags were inspired by classic etui cases used to carry cameras and binoculars.

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 62

Mühle was founded in 1945 by Otto Johannes Müller and has been creating covetable grooming essentials ever since. xd Mühle shaving bag, €187, Mühle, Hackesche Höfe, Rosenthaler Strasse 40-41, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 6026 9429, muehle-shaving.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 60

PHOTO: JO ZARTH

CH ECK OUT

only the best out west CONTEMPORARY FASHION, FABULOUS FOOD AND GREAT DESIGN

wonderful to wander bikini berlin

Zoologischer Garten

24 | P R O D U C T S

RED ALERT Make a subtle statement by accenting your black accessories with deep cherry red 2

1. Lala Berlin coat, €598, Lala Berlin, Alte Schönhauser Strasse 3, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2009 5363, lalaberlin.com

3. Bulgari watch, €3,950, Bulgari, Kurfürstendamm 190-192, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 885 7920, bulgari.com

2. Mykita eyewear, €449, Mykita, Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 6, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 6730 8715, mykita.com

4. Tod’s handbag, €1,235, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2191 6444, tods.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 62

5. Giorgio Armani shoes, €890, Giorgio Armani, Kurfürstendamm 53-55, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2148 0741, armani.com

S H O P | 25

WINTER GLOW From body butter to anti-aging serums, discover the best German cosmetics of the season

PHOTO: (7) ARSMEDICOM GMBH

1. I+M Berlin cream deodorant, 100ml, €9.90, Belladonna, Bergmannstrasse 107, 10961 Berlin, +49 (0)30 6904 0333, iplusm.berlin 2. Und Gretel foundation, 30ml, €49.50, MDC Cosmetic, Knaackstrasse 26, 10405 Berlin, +49 (0)30 4005 6339, undgretel.com 3. Oliveda Olive Leaf Body Butter Grapefruit Rose, 180ml, €36.95, Oliveda, Neue Schönhauser Strasse 11, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2453 1446, oliveda.com

globalblue.com

4. Royal Fern Phytoactive Anti-Aging Serum, 30ml, €250, Belle Rebelle, Bleibtreustrasse 42, 10623 Berlin, +49 (0)30 6796 72050, royalfern.com

6. Amala Rejuvenate Advanced Firming Concentrate, 40ml, €298, Breathe Fresh Cosmetics, Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 28, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2434 2577, amalabeauty.com

5. Annemarie Börlind NatuRoyale Eye and Lip Contour, 15ml, €59, Reformhaus Quentin, Grunerstrasse 20, 10179 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2472 4967, boerlind.com

7. Dr Hauschka Silk Body Powder, €20.50, Douglas, Kurfürstendamm 33, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 883 5065, dr.hauschka.com

26 | P R O D U C T S

TECH IN TRANSIT

1. Fitbit Alta HR fitness tracker, €138, Conrad, Hasenheide 14-15, 10967 Berlin, +49 (0)9604 408787, fitbit.com

3. Sennheiser Momentum In-Ear Wireless headset, €199, Sennheiser, Tauentzienstrasse 17, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2363 0162, sennheiser.com

2. Horizn Studios DJ trolley, €499, Horizn Studios, Alte Schönhauser Strasse 33-34, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2084 74730, horizn-studios.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 62

4. Roxxlyn MacBook Slate skin, from €100, Roxxlyn, Brunnenstrasse 172, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 9835 2010, roxxlyn.com

PHOTOS: (1) NEWDEALDESIGN; (7) HAW-LIN SERVICES; (8) RYAN FIELD; (9) PÅL ALLAN

Lightweight and compatible products mean you can take your tech accessories with you wherever you go

S H O P | 27

5. Kaweco Steel Sport fountain pen, €84.50, RSVP, Mulackstrasse 26, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2809 4644, kaweco-pen.com

7. PB0110 tote bag, €699, Süper Store, Dieffenbachstrasse 12, 10967 Berlin, +49 (0)30 9832 7944, pb0110.com

6. Leica Sofort camera, €299, Leica, Fasanenstrasse 71, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 5036 1666, leica-camera.com

8. Nixon Mission watch, €429, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 21210, nixon.com

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9. Urbanears speaker, €450, KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 21210, urbanears.com

28 | N E W S

SHOP WINDOW

Gretchen handbags and purses are crafted with timeless style in dynamic designs made from only the finest leathers. It’s thus no surprise that this luxury brand has found a new home on Kurfürstendamm, one of Berlin’s most prestigious and elegant shopping streets. Taking inspiration from

architecturally structured shapes, each design is made with the modern woman in mind. Expect to find the entire product range of fine leather goods in this 60-square-metre space, from evening clutches to practical shoppers and backpacks, as well as premium accessories such as key rings, gloves and

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 62

wallets in complementary colours. This year also marks 10 years since the brand’s first collection, a further reason to visit the new store. km Gretchen, Kurfürstendamm 216, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 5130 39172, mygretchen.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 51

PHOTO: HARALD FRANTZ

IN THE BAG

kaufhof.de

GALERIA KAUFHOF MAKES YOU FALL IN LOVE WITH GERMANY Enjoy shopping at our famous department store in Berlin.

Free WLAN in our store!

We offer the service Downtown Cash Refund and pay out all your Global Blue German Tax Free Forms. Galeria Kaufhof GmbH | Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1 | 50676 Kรถln

BERLIN, AM ALEXANDERPLATZ

30 | N E W S

TEAM SPIRIT Innovation meets style with the new collaboration between sportswear powerhouse Colmar and contemporary outfitter Au Jour Le Jour, which combines over 90 years of sportswear expertise with the talent and creativity of a young label. The outcome is a capsule collection that spans coats, T-shirts, knits and more for both men and women, all made in Italy. Revisiting Colmar’s heritage, the menswear and womenswear pieces feature bright, playful prints and colour block effects, finished with patches and bold logos. This collection of outerwear and knitwear draws on the multiple strengths of both these covetable brands. km Galeries Lafayette, Friedrichstrasse 76-78, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 209480, colmar.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 59

Cartier’s Panthère de Cartier watch, an icon of the 1980s, has been given an update at the peak of the current 80s trend revival. Released in 1983, the Panthère watch was a favourite of female stars of the era, including actresses Elizabeth Taylor and Jane Seymour and singers Grace Jones and Cher. The classic design features a square body with rounded corners, a face set with Roman numerals, and blue sword-shaped hands. The revival collection watch is available in two sizes and a choice of nine different settings: steel, bicolour, yellow gold and pink gold can be set with or without brilliant-cut diamonds. We particularly like the medium Panthère de Cartier in pink gold (€22,100) for its elegant, classic look. rre Cartier, Kurfürstendamm 188-189, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 886 7060, cartier.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 50

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 62

PHOTOS: (TOP) PAOLO SANTAMBROGIO; (BOTTOM) © CARTIER

CHANNEL THE 80S

S H O P | 31

PERFORMANCE MEETS DESIGN The new Porsche Design Book One (€2,795) sees the lifestyle brand introduce computing into its offering. The innovative laptop is both convertible and detachable, thanks to a hinge that allows the tablet unit to be removed, or rotate through 360 degrees. Equipped with Windows 10 Pro, the device features 512GB of storage, both a touch display and a precision touchpad, and remarkable resolution of 3200 x 1800 pixels. It is equipped with biometric authentication for easy, secure login. In keeping with the brand’s aesthetic, the laptop has a sophisticated matte aluminium finish. Versatility and high performance make this two-inone device ideal for travellers. grc Porsche Design, Kurfürstendamm 48-49, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8871 7830, porsche-design.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 50

PHOTOS: (TOP) MICROSOFT GMBH/MATTHIAS NADLER

IN BRIEF The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Master Co-Axial chronometer, a stunning feat of watchmaking, incorporates a beautiful mother-of-pearl dial, diamond hour markers and a diamondpaved bezel

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BUCKLE UP This season Berlin-based womenswear designer Marina Hoermanseder has collaborated with Wolford. The result is a capsule collection of tights, a dress and a bodysuit that combine the designer’s signature buckle motif with the feminine aesthetic of the Austrian lingerie and hosiery brand. The collaboration was unveiled during Berlin Fashion Week, within the context of Marina Hoermanseder’s autumn/winter 2017/18 show, a collection that draws on opera, the Victorian era, the 1920s and the 1960s. grc Wolford, Kurfürstendamm 48-49, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8872 1739, wolford.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 50

PHOTO: Â© GORUNWAY.COM

WORD ON THE STREET

From global brands to niche labels, sportswear is the uniform of the street. Dominique Fenn reports on its wide appeal â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and its central place on Berlinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion scene

hree lines down the side of a tracksuit; a swooping tick across a cotton T-shirt; a laurel wreath logo embroidered on the chest of a polo shirt, and a badge attached to the sleeve of a jumper with two glossy buttons â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all distinctive signs of popular brands with sporting heritage, re-appropriated on our streets as everyday attire. You will have recognised the unmistakable trademarks of Adidas, Nike, Fred Perry and Stone Island. Brands such as these are the uniform of the non-uniform, and a symbol of belonging. These trusted brands are typically adopted by teenagers who are seeking to both 63 73

stand out and to fit in. Social scenes and youth culture are entwined, with members of each new generation seeking to express themselves in a different way. Finding your style tribe is a rite of passage just as it was for the punks and mod revivalists of the 1970s and 80s. In recent years, however, it is not just the kids who are adopting the most recent trends. Sportswear and streetwear are merging, as designers and consumers alike are eluding traditional categorisation within fashion. It has been some decades since we have we seen such a resurgence of sportswear brands being embraced beyond the courts and changing rooms. Left: sportswear label Supreme is a streetwear favourite frequently seen at fashion weeks

34 | F E AT U R E S

2017 and everyone from teenagers to fashion editors eagerly anticipates Supreme’s latest drop, with fans queuing for hours, sometimes overnight, for the latest piece in capital cities. The much-anticipated collaboration between Louis Vuitton and Supreme, formerly a niche, underground label, saw high fashion and hypefashion collide. American outdoor clothing company The North Face was, until recently, a popular activewear label of choice for hikers, cyclists and people spending time surrounded by the elements. A collaboration with Supreme saw the brand’s kudos multiply overnight. Patagonia, the technical sportswear clothing brand with a social conscience, was once most likely to be an investment piece for serious explorers – now it is the brand of choice for many urban dwellers. The bubble has not yet burst, not least in Berlin, a vibrant city with thriving subcultures, Above (clockwise from bottom left): Adidas Stan Smith sneakers; Patagonia Hyper Puff coat; Vetements, both autumn/winter 2017/18

PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT) EU.PATAGONIA.COM; (RIGHT) © GORUNWAY.COM

In 2015, Adidas reportedly sold eight million pairs of Stan Smiths globally. To add context, between 1973, the year the German sportswear giant launched the white tennis shoes, and 2015, it sold over 40 million pairs, according to its own official figures. The revival of interest in retro-style trainers is partly responsible, and influential figures wearing the minimal style, such as Céline’s Phoebe Philo, have made it acceptable for fashionable women to wear flat shoes. Other relevant fashion moments include Givenchy’s Rottweiler hooded sweater, which became a cult item, gently loosening the silhouette and blurring the line between womenswear and menswear. Then, of course, came the explosive rise of Demna Gvasalia at Vetements in 2014, with oversized hoodies and bomber jackets that were as desirable as gold dust. Fast forward to

S H O P | 35

PHOTOS: (LEFT) © GORUNWAY.COM; (TOP RIGHT) MICHAEL SUSCHEK/@RUNNERWALLY; (BOTTOM RIGHT) ROBERT WUNSCH

renowned for its liberal attitude and alternative clubbing scene. Individual style here has a distinctively punk attitude. While streetwear is a global language, it is underlying attitude and philosophy that truly makes a scene. Navigating the online reseller market requires dedication. Fortunately, Berlin is host to some of the most exciting independent boutiques in the world. No74 is an Adidas-owned shop, although only those in the know are aware of this. Its selection of Adidas and Y-3 is extensive and it’s possible to find all the collaborative Raf Simons and Rick Owens footwear here. Parties are frequently hosted in the space. Overkill, the shop with a whole wall dedicated to sneakers, is another Berlin beacon for those seeking sporting footwear. CEO Thomas Peiser is highly regarded in the city for the extent of his stock. The range of styles here is impressive, with classic and new models

from stalwart favourites such as Nike, Adidas and Puma, as well as those by brands whose popularity has seen a recent surge – Asics and Onitsuka Tiger, for example. The boutique has strong ties to the street art scene, shown in its array of graffiti paraphernalia, and also offers a selection of sporty clothing for men and women. Perhaps the best example of sportswear’s integration into the world of fashion is its infiltration into the brand lists of some of Berlin’s most respected fashion concept stores. At Soto, a menswear emporium loved by styleconscious locals for its modern and original concept of men’s dressing, catwalk brands including Dries Van Noten, Acne Studios and Raf Simons share the rails with Puma, Adidas and the like. Filling Pieces and Eytys, two young sneaker specialists with cult followings, are also represented. Sportswear for the everyday, it seems, is here to stay Above (clockwise from left): Louis Vuitton X Supreme autumn/winter 2017/18; Overkill’s well-known sneaker wall; the stylish Soto menswear emporium

COOL CONCEPTS

Berlin’s best boutiques offer tempting purchases – and much more. William Lee Adams discovers the concept stores that take the city’s shopping experience to a whole new level

Above: Voo Store’s eclectic offering

38 | F E AT U R E S

rotating installations from wood designers and landscape artists, or pass the time by listening to the store’s music playlist and browsing its many books. They can do all of this in Voo’s popular Companion Coffee space, which serves some of the city’s most sought-after blends. Relaxed does not mean lazy, however. Voo’s creative team scour the globe for treasures, bringing together an impressive array of chic T-shirts, smart knitwear and inspiring evening dresses; brands available range from Nike and Adidas to Raf Simons and Marni. ‘Our minds and hearts are very close to nature in general and even more these days,’ says Hofmann, who cites an understated V-neck wool sweater from Prada’s autumn/winter 2017/18 collection as particularly representative of this aesthetic. ‘We do focus on craftsmanship and naturally sourced materials and products as much as possible. Our direction leans towards

PHOTOS: (BOTTOM LEFT) REBECCA CRAWFORD; (RIGHT) © GORUNWAY.COM

rom its riotous nightlife to its freespirited art scene, Berlin has a reputation for bending the rules. The same goes for its fashion scene. Its high-end shops are abandoning formality and upending the notion that chic must be cold, structured and severe. Instead comfort and quirkiness reign, transforming retail spaces into leisure spaces, where people are invited to browse and linger. ‘We wanted to create a vibe where people feel free to explore design and everything else we show and offer, but no one should feel obliged to buy something,’ says Herbert Hofmann, creative director of Voo Store. ‘There’s no pressure and no shiny fashionboutique flair.’ Located in gritty Kreuzberg, a hub of counterculture and art, Voo occupies the ground floor of a former locksmith. Amid 300 square metres of unfinished concrete walls and a vast courtyard space, visitors can admire

64 73

Above (clockwise from top left): Herbert Hofmann, creative director of Voo Store; Prada V-neck wool sweater available in the store; Companion Coffee at Voo

S H O P | 39

that moving to a private atmosphere could help provoke the kind of encounter we enjoy.’ The label rose to prominence in 1997, when Martin Margiela sent models down the runway in Bless wigs made of fur. That was an appropriate start for the quirky brand, which blurs the boundaries of style with its designs, offering creations across the fields of fashion, beauty, interiors and art. Since then it has continued to inspire with largely androgynous clothing that includes cashmere hooded coats in camel; eye-catching scarves that mix colours like day-glow orange and rose pink; and knitted jumpers in alluring colourways of burnt orange, sky blue and brown. Unlike traditional fashion houses, which frequently seek to reinvent themselves season after season, Bless prefers to grow organically. ‘We don’t really do collections in a classical way,’ Kaag says, noting that the apartment is filled with items from past and current

PHOTOS: BERT HOUBRECHTS

materials like linen, wool and styles that will stay with you for a long time.’ The laid-back atmosphere continues at Bless, a highly respected German label that occupies a third-floor apartment in a residential building on the border between the upmarket Mitte and artistic Prenzlauer Berg districts. Visitors don’t just feel as though they’re strolling through someone’s bohemian home: they actually are. Photographer Bert Houbrechts lives in the space and welcomes visitors with a cup of tea and an invitation to have a seat and a chat. A hairstylist from Japan is even available to cut hair on Saturdays. ‘We want to reach out to people who are looking for a place where they can see our things, but without being a shop – where customers sometimes browse without any concentration,’ says creative director Ines Kaag. She relocated Bless from a more traditional location a few years ago, as, she says, ‘We felt

Above (both): the Bless concept store feels like a bohemian apartment - because it is also home to a Berlin photographer

40 | F E AT U R E S

seasons. ‘We’ve tried to establish new classic pieces that repeat in different fabrics each season and we would add whatever comes along with it.’ Fashion mavens aren’t the only ones to take note of the brand’s bold and everevolving designs. Before being hung inside the apartment’s open closets and racks, some of its scarves, print T-shirts and knitted sweaters were exhibited at the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris and the Centre Pompidou. The idea of feeling at home in a boutique is also pertinent at The Store Berlin. Located inside the Soho House private members’ club, The Store is open to everyone, from the well-heeled guests staying in the club’s hotel to trend-conscious locals looking for a place to pass the time. Designed to resemble a private home, the hybrid retail space invites visitors to take their time inside the 2,800-square-metre wonderland, which seamlessly melds food, Above: The Store Berlin is located in the city’s branch of Soho House

fashion, art installations, co-working space and photography exhibitions. The highly edited apparel section includes garments from The Row, Issey Miyake and Proenza Schouler, among others, and there are countless nooks where hipsters can sip lattes while flipping through glossy coffee table books and magazines. Virtually everything is for sale – from the music playing to the candles burning, to the sofas where visitors are invited to relax after their shopping sprees. It puts a stylish and decidedly comfortable spin on ‘try before you buy’. While the ease of online shopping is threatening the bricks-and-mortar store, there are some experiences that cannot be replicated in front of a screen. It looks as though Berlin’s best boutiques, with their friendly, clientcentred, original approaches, have found a way to keep us returning time and time again

PHOTO: KIRCHNER KUTT

Berlin’s best boutiques, with their friendly, client-centred, original approaches, keep customers returning time and time again

SHOPPING IS BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE Shop Tax Free and save up to 19% Find out more at globalblue.com

42 | E X P E R I E N C E

STAY IN STYLE The world’s finest hotels boast desirable locations, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best

HOBO Hobo, which combines intelligent design, urban farming and innovative technology, has quickly become one of the most exciting hotels in Stockholm – and in all of Scandinavia. Set in a brutalist building from the 1970s, the hotel is a key part of the regeneration of Stockholm’s Brunkebergstorg square; the district has recently seen an influx of fashionable boutiques, bars and restaurants. The 201-room hotel is sure to be a hit with design aficionados. globalblue.com

Designed by Berlin-based Studio Aisslinger in collaboration with local designers and artists, the rooms feature bespoke lighting, creative multifunctional furniture and intriguing wall art installations. The pioneering aquaponic herb garden in the hotel’s lobby provides the flavourings for drinks and restaurant dishes. Hobo, Brunkebergstorg 4, 111 51 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 5788 2700, hobo.se

S H O P | 43

SANDERS The Sanders luxury boutique hotel is a 2017 addition to the heart of Copenhagen’s historic centre. Minutes away from the picturesque Nyhavn canal and the Amalienborg royal residence, its 54 guestrooms are some of the most luxurious in Copenhagen. Inspired by the golden age of travel and the world of theatre, each of the hotel’s rooms evokes the spirit of old-school glamour, with handpicked and bespoke luxury furniture and polished

hardwood accents nodding to colonial-era décor. The hotel’s restaurant, Sanders Kitchen, offers guests homely, family-style dining with a focus on locally farmed, fresh produce. The Tata bar’s menu of classic cocktails makes it the perfect place to unwind after a day spent exploring Copenhagen. Sanders, Tordenskjoldsgade 15, 1055 Copenhagen, +45 7020 2818, hotelsanders.com

THE ONE BARCELONA The five-star One Barcelona is located in the Dreta de l’Eixample neighbourhood, a stone’s throw from the famous Passeig de Gràcia and Avinguda Diagonal. The hotel’s stunning interior, the work of internationally renowned Spanish designer Jaime Beriestain, focuses on natural light and the finest materials, including Italian marble and 18-carat gold, and epitomises contemporary elegance. The hotel’s 89 spacious rooms, 25 of which are suites, feature ingenious, subtle design features and globalblue.com

innovative technology, including electric blinds and smart lighting which automatically adjusts the room’s brightness. The building’s most striking design feature, a central glass atrium, floods the communal areas with light, while the Mood rooftop bar, terrace and pool provide the perfect setting for relaxing with a cocktail and enjoying breathtaking views of the city. The One Barcelona, Carrer de Provença 277, 08037 Barcelona, +34 93 214 2070, hotelstheone.com

PHOTO: MANOLO YLLERA

44 | E X P E R I E N C E

S H O P | 45

PHOTO: LEMONGRASS MARKETING

MARTINHAL CHIADO Families need no longer compromise on luxury or practicality with the opening of Martinhal’s family-friendly hotel in Lisbon’s fashionable Chiado district. Offering all the style and amenities of a high-end hotel, but designed with families in mind, the hotel aims to take the stress out of travelling with children. Stylish apartments feature adult rooms, kids’ rooms and spaces for the family to share, and the modern aesthetics belie the careful child-friendly elements, from an

abundance of curved corners and soft cushions to varying sizes of furniture. These small details are combined with thoughtful services; for example, guests can book everything from bottles to baby baths in advance of their arrival, making Martinhal Chiado one of the most intelligent and luxurious family hotels available. Martinhal Chiado, Rua das Flores 44, 1200-195 Lisbon, +351 21 850788, martinhal.com

TOM-TAILOR.DE

ROCK N ROLL?

TOM TAILOR STORE LEIPZIGER PLATZ 12 BERLIN

G U I D E | 47

GUIDE

PHOTO: VISIT BERLIN/WOLFGANG SCHOLVIEN

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Berlin with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from Europe’s top street food contest to a selection of original fashion boutiques. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/berlin.

Above: the Oberbaum bridge across the River Spree, pictured at sunset

48 | G U I D E

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Place Of Interest Global Blue Refund Office

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SHOP HIGHLIGHTS Café am Neuen See

Gretchen Gretchen’s Tango bag is a modern classic. Pick one up in the brand’s new Berlin boutique. Gretchen, Kurfürstendamm 216, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 5130 39172, mygretchen.com

JEEB BEEN BSSS STTR

FEATURED ON PAGE 28

ZOOLOGISCHER GARTEN

Hotel Interconti

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Frau Tonis Parfum Choose a new signature scent at this enticing fragrance boutique. FU GGER ST R AS SE Frau Tonis Parfum, Zimmerstrasse 13, 10969 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2021 5310, frau-tonis-parfum.com

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Zenkichi Sample delectable Japanese cuisine at this highly praised eatery. Zenkichi’s sake selection is impeccable. Zenkichi, WITTENBERGPLATZ Johannisstrasse 20, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2463 0810, zenkichi.de

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THEATER OF THE WEST

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Voo Store R. Browse the eclectic R S T selection STE PRE.books T A of clothing, and music S D U BR ST E onUoffer A P Eat this cool concept store. D B Voo Store, R. ST EN Oranienstrasse A F 24, GR RG BU 10999 Berlin, +49 K U(0)30 695 797 2710, RFÜ vooberlin.com ST

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PHOTO: HIROSHI TOYODA

AS SE BR

Zenkichi, Johannisstrasse 20, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2463 0810, zenkichi.de

Zenkichi appeared on Berlin’s culinary scene in 2015, arriving from New York to amaze guests with an elegant, authentic Japanese dining experience. Modelled on traditional Tokyo establishments, Zenkichi serves Japanese dishes à la carte or as an omakase (tasting) menu selected by the chef. Items on the seasonal menus might include grilled saiko black cod or organic apple-fed pork kakuni. Co-owner and certified sake sommelier Motoko Watanabe works with the head chef to devise the menu, and has personally selected Zenkichi’s extensive list of sakes, which are sourced from Japanese elite breweries.

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Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Retailer

DAM

PL. OLIV AER

SCH LÜ T ERS

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RUNG NAPA ●

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JA NG ● S● S ILLI A Z W CKEL O I UGL SUN ● O & D DOP MAN HEN OCH TIC O P & B DM ● ●D ●O OY EN E● LER LD M E OX SE BRE E ● VIL AS ● G GERFE K TR A FA L ● NS ●L EN MA OL ● OPK D● GR A P T EIFF OR ULL ● S M NN TUR ME ODU VA I● SNA ● B RA HO HES MERL ZA ● EL ● ZIM T FA N E STE LOT P TO R KO N ER S ● ● OT IGN CY YBO R ● DES MA N AV O G N E ● 200 LD HAR P B ● Q ENFE EKE P AM ROS P OT H A N N GCH NE ● L O N O N TA I E ● ● A ELLM EF HUH ● ● H A R I N A & CO A N NT E R S C A N N ● C NDEF ● S LM E U HEL MA J APE MIR ARK ●J H H ● I S O BUD ● R AU L & TUM ●P O ER ● LAN HER I MI E BUC AIR OGG ● B C A D A V O LT I● S ELF ● ● E DIG & L EIN P ED O A ERI A& SH AM ● Z LIPP ● I B H FÜM R AG ADE ●P sz FER PA R AU B O R D ● I G r o AT O R E ● LF ELL E WO E SIG N ● CIN A LV ● S E R S A CL L O C U P.31 C H E D Z A R D ● S E ● V RUNE ER 4 P ORR EN É L IL L E 5 R ● ● B ONCL R E B N P.31 ● M U CCI R I AIG ● G U LG A E● ●B P.30 RM ELO ER N● SD RTI NA A CHE YVE S● EL ABBA ●C TA S NTU G HAN NA MIE ENT ● ● C LCE & R Z EG O L A U A L LY ● ●D M LDO NT C B EGI SAI ● MRMEN D● ● E R A DA PA R ●P CHO MANI ● R DER ON OA SAN IT T RGI JIL S VU GIO ● OUI ● ● L O L E X R RY LOT HUB ● R U L B E R RY R● LE DIO ● ● M URBE RIL INO IE B ●B ENT ●D ● VA L R M È S H E E TA ● EN AV

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S H O P | 51

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SELECTED SHOPS IN BIKINI BERLIN: Alessi Andreas Murkudis Carhartt Closed S CH A P ER STR AS Cyberport SE Ganni Gant Gestalten Pavilion Kusmi Tea

Mabba Mammut Mykita Odeeh P.A.R.O.S.H Premiata Super Tailor & Tales The North Face Vans Vitra Artek

SELECTED SHOPS IN KADEWE: Burberry Bulgari Calvin Klein Céline Chopard Christ Diesel Dior Fendi Hermès Hugo Boss Lacoste Louis Vuitton Miu Miu

Montblanc Nespresso Omega Niki Prada Rolex Rosenthal Salvatore Ferragamo Steiff Sony Tiffany & Co Tod’s Vertu Wellendorff WMF

PHOTO: MAGNUS KLACKENSTAM

Monochromatic pieces inspired by street style are the focal point of the Thom Krom brand, founded and curated by Thomas Kromik. Creating minimalist clothing that aims to help the customer ‘tell a story’, Kromik infuses classic, functional style into his eminently wearable garments. This season, oversized black turtlenecks are paired with cropped black trousers for women, with men’s looks combining bomber jackets and hooded tops. Layering is always a central part of Thom Krom collections, creating effortless combinations with endless possibilities. The colour palette of mainly black and white allows the high-quality materials and well-made designs to shine through. Orimono, Joachimstrasse 5, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 5565 6694, thomkrom.com

Global Blue Refund Office

Shopping Centre/Mall

Place Of Interest

U-Bahn

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LL & BE A H& R ● RO DE MO M ● SI D A MA BE GU RB AL ● RS UR GE ES HK A ● RS PR ● TR A I ● DI . DA T ● FO SE D S● SS NN OU IL HE GL ● AS NI I S KE ● FO RES M A N SER ● A DI OT ER G ● D O SW L AS O VE ● ● OR EU BE ARO CK E D ● R IG ● N V R IN S A O PA N Ü E T T OS K I ●● AL T CE UR N S R Cl NT NB ● N op P E ER R pe ee GE ● U nb k & R S NIQ ur g T R LO ● L L E EGO ● ZAR . IS D EI A ● ER ● C ● ● K I KO H M AN ● SHO N PL DM E C IT A ● N Y SP ET OR TS

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&A ●C MEN FOR ● FFS RY ●O HRT ERD NN ● L FA SUP A H M O ● PEL H&M EW AM ● ÄT H ● K LY BER ● É N S LHU R ● O LON E CK C A F HAL WEBE ● Y RY ● P RD RO HUT A G E R L A S S N E U E S● ●H G E SUN ECK N LO NZ URBA ● ’P O S KRA R C OR EN TER MA E L ● FIT OSS ● S ASL MIL B OUT ● B A R E N E L KO R LE ● APP ND ● ● K ICHA GER LA ILFI ● ●M S H O DA BER MY LRICH ●C M AV E N O ● TIM O A ● T ● WOO P EP E TUJ R● CARCAMPE IZIA P.28 AT R L ● PR O E C KC H E N ● G R E TH I S T O ● MEP RD ● CA ERS Y I ● PPA L MP E R N AV ● EM ANDE ●W IL S TE ● JL A C OLSA A C K ● VA N ● S● PLE KO O A K ● T H E F I L I P PC H T ● KNE ULI

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52 | G U I D E

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SELECTED SHOPS IN WILMERSDORFER ARKADEN: Biba Bijou Brigitte Bong Apotheke Bonita Christ Colloseum Deichmann Douglas Ecco Esprit Eterna Fischer Mode Foot Locker Forever 18 Gabor H&M Intersport Sportpoint Jack & Jones Jeans Fritz Lascana Medimax Mustang Neosino New Yorker Nicolas Scholz Promod Puma Reno Runners Point S Oliver Spiele Max Tally Weijl Tamaris Top Two Yves Rocher Zero

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SELECTED SHOPS IN STILWERK BERLIN: Bretz Store Berlin Fatboy Berlin Lambert Lichthaus Mösch Möve Shop NS

BL EI BT R EU

ST RA SSE

DOLCE VITA ● SS E

KN E SEB ECK

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Germany is famous for its beers, but Our Berlin is adding to the country’s drinks repertoire with the launch of its Botanical Blends series of vodka infusion kits. Available in three flavours, juniper, oak and citrus, the kits allow you to take a piece of hipster Berlin culture home with you. Add a sachet of ingredients to your vodka, and wait for the magic to happen; depending on the flavour, infusion time is anything from 10 minutes to 15 hours. Each blend has been balanced to create a delicious tipple that can be enjoyed on its own, or blended with other ingredients in a cocktail. Our favourite is the citrus infusion, which combines Nigerian ginger with Chinese white tea and Thai lemongrass, while the smoky oak infusion, with notes of saffron and Madagascan vanilla, makes a great addition to a warming winter drink. Our Berlin, Flutgraben 2, 12435 Berlin, +49 (0)30 5360 2227, ourvodka.com/ourberlin

● LE LABO

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● SØR WOMAN ● PASHION ● FLEUR DE PARIS ● GIORGIA BOUTIQUE ● BLEIBGRÜN

LIETZENBU

globalblue.com

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PHOTOS: RIAN DAVIDSON

● PATRICK HELLMANN ● TORQUATO ● SØR HERRENAUSSTATTER

54 | G U I D E

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Hunkemöller Intersport Sporthaus Pimkie Primark Spiele Max

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LLOYD CONCEPT STORE ● SCHILDHORN APOTHEKE ● BIBA ●

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Centre Steglitz

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SELECTED SHOPS IN FORUM STEGLITZ: Esprit H&M

● FOOT LOCKER ● BIBA

APOLLO-OPTIK ● FIELMANN ● BASLER ●

RUNNERS POINT ●

TIVOLA ●

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● ULLA POPKEN SPORTSCHECK ● ● WITTSTOCK BRAX ● ● BONITA THE BODY SHOP ● CLARKS ● ● VILLEROY & BOCH DOUGLAS ● PETIT BATEAU ● ● NATURKAUFHAUS

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SELECTED SHOPS IN CENTRE STEGLITZ: Aktiv Schuh Apollo Optik Ara Bijou Brigitte Christ Comma Desigual Douglas Esprit Gerry Weber G-Star Hallhuber H&M Hollister Hunkemöller Jette Joop Karstadt Karstadt Sports Konplott Kult Lloyd L’Occitane Lush LTB Mexx New Yorker Only Orsay Pandora Pilgrim Promod Runners Point Saturn S Oliver Sidestep Tamaris Tally Weijl Zara

SCHLOSSPARK THEATRE

SELECTED SHOPS IN DAS SCHLOSS: Anson’s Benetton Bonita Christ Colloseum Conrad Electronic Esprit Gabor-Camel Gamestop Geox Gerry Weber Görtz H&M Marc O’Polo Media Markt Mexx New Yorker Orsay Pimkie S Oliver Street One Tommy Hilfiger

SILKE DEBLER Berlin-based designer Silke Debler founded her brand in 2012 to champion elegant and innovative glove design. Opulence is a central theme of her autumn/winter 2017/18 collection. Inspired by French cinema, pops of colour including cherry red, forest green and magenta elevate simple styles. Details such as zips, pinstripes and fur details add a playful spirit to the range, which offers everything from cropped versions to medium-length and full-length gloves, at prices ranging from €145 to €895.

Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Lala Berlin, Alte Schönhauser Strasse 3, 10119 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2009 5363, silkedebler.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 60

Department Store

Shopping Centre/Mall

SHOPPING IS BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE Shop Tax Free and save up to 19% Find out more at globalblue.com

56 | G U I D E

EAST BERLIN JOH ANNISSTRASSE

UMA

TE TE FF IN

R EIN

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HAR

Grill Royal

A SSE

A M W EID

HTS

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EB ERTST R A SS E

B EH

GERMAN CATHEDRAL

59 KR O N EN ST

R AS S E

C H A R LO TT

RS TR AS

U-Bahn

Train Station

EN ST R A SS

RAS

PAGE

Berlin Hilton

STADTMITTE

MST

Place Of Interest

CONCERT HALL BERLIN

R PL.

Hyatt Hotel

Shopping Centre/Mall

R ASSE

. AME SD PL OT PR E

HEL

P OT S DA M POTSDAMER PLATZ

Soﬁtel

NH Hotel

WIL

Hotel Berlin Marriott

A SSE

Mall of Berlin

G LIN K A S T

RAS

VO S S S T R

Regent Hotel

PAGE

MOHRENSTRASSE Hotel Ritz Carlton

RAS

MST

M A R -S T R .

D - KO L

IST ERG Ä RTE

R ST

H EL

TRU

ES ENN

IN DE N MIN

M AU E

WIL

S I S C H E ST

R AS SE

FRANZÖSISCHE STRASSE

GER

RE AH A

Hotel de Rome

B EH RE N S T

SE NSTR A S

FR A N ZÖ

HAN

LIN DE N DEDNEN LIN ENER UN TE RUDNT

Westin Grand Hotel Hotel Adlon

STR A SSE

TSTR . U N I V E R S I TÄ

BRANDENBURGER TOR BRANDENBURG GATE

ST R.

UNTER DE

H O L L-S T R

R A SS E

TR A SSE

SSE

MI T T EL ST

D O R OT H E E N

SCH EIDEM A N NSTR A SS E

ST R A

Maritim pro Arte Hotel

A SS E

GEORGENS

HSTR A S

EENST R

FR I E D R IC

AG ST

E UF

FRIEDRICHSTRASSE

S C H A D OW

D O R OT H

ICH

T R A SS E

R A SSE

NCK

GL IN K A S

LU IS E N S T

PAUL LÖBE ALLEE

SCH

A FB

PLA

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THE REICHSTAG BUILDING

BUNDESTAG

E N DA M M

TR A

M A R IE

G E S C H W I S T E R-S C

ALB

AS DSTR

-S

-U

YS T

ZIEGEL STRA SSE

LSK

SCH

A SS

K AP

TR NNS

TUC

Hotel

ZIM M ER STR

Restaurant

S H O P | 57

MÜ

PAGE

DIR RS

. STR CH

K EN S T R A S S E

Hotel Park Inn Berlin

HACKESCHER MARKT C RO

THE WORLD TIME CLOCK

ALEXANDERPLATZ

EN SS E

UGN REU R

NS TR A SSE

IR LTA

S TA

WA IS TR.

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SE AS TR R-S

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WA L L

globalblue.com

CBKREÜ NCSKTE RNASST SREA S S

R. E R ST

TR AS SE

ST R AS SE

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MÄRKISCHES MUSEUM

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KR AU SE NS

KUR S

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TZ LA

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RED CITY HALL

NIKOLAI QUARTER

LL STR .

R. ST US A T H NIKOLAI CHURCH RA

K HIN SC

O B E R WA

ER S CH

I L- L

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R ST

BERLIN CATHEDRAL

D WER

SS RSAE SATS R R T NSE

SAS Radisson Dom Aquaree

MUSEUMSINSEL AS

TELEVISION TOWER

R ST

AAL LEE XXAA NNDD EERR PPLL AATT ZZ

SSE

ST TR RAAS S SE E

HHE E I NI NR RI CI CH HHHE E I NI NE ES

O R A NIEN B U RG ER S T R .

58 | G U I D E

Leipziger Platz, Potsdamer Platz U N T ER D EN

BRANDENBURGER TOR

WIL

HEL

TR .

EBERTSR A SSE

DEUTSCHE KINEMATHEK ER

Potsdamer Platz Arkaden

PL A TZ

R P L AT Z L EI PZIGE

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P OT

S DA

MER

TE AL

D TS

Mall of Berlin

U E S TR A SSE

JAMES CASTLE British designer James Castle worked for Alexander McQueen before establishing his own Berlin-based label in 2010. Classic yet modern, James Castle creates timeless clothing and accessories that combine fine fabrics with excellent craftsmanship. Tailoring, a key focus for the brand, is evident throughout the James Castle collections, all made in the label’s Berlin

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

T RA SS E

● SONY CENTER

Steiff Street Shoes Strellson Sunglass Hut Swarovski Taschenparadies The Body Shop Thomas Sabo Tom Tailor Tommy Hilfiger Toys R Us Trigema Triumph Twin-Set Undiz Uniqlo Vans Vero Moda WE Wigglesteps WMF Wormland Zara Zero FR IED R IC HS

R A SS E

Navyboot Nike Oakley Olymp Pandora Passionata Peak Performance Peek & Cloppenburg Pepe Jeans Reno Replay Rich And Royal . Rituals Runners Point Salamander Sarar Saturn Schiesser Schuh Bode Shoe City Sidestep Snipes Sportalm Kitzbühel Sportscheck GL IN K A ST

SELECTED SHOPS IN MALL OF BERLIN: 1.2.3. Desigual Hugo Boss ● JUWELIER LEICHT 7 For All Mankind Dogo Shoes Hunkemöller Adidas Douglas Intimissimi Aris Art of Diamond Einblick Optik Jack & Jones Airfield Engelsrufer & Co. JD Sports H R E N S T R A S S E BE Apotheke Am Esprit Karl Lagerfeld Leipziger Platz Eterna Kiehls Armani Jeans Être Belle Cosmetics Konplott Bershka Falke Kusmi Tea Bijou Brigitte Fashion Club Lacoste Bree Fast Forward Levi’s Build a Bear FC Bayern München Liebeskind Workshop Fanshop Lief Lifestyle Calvin Klein Jeans Foot Locker Liu Jo Calzedonia Fossil Lloyd Casano French Connection Look54 Change Gant Mac Cosmetics C&A Gina Tricot Mango Christ G-Star Marc Cain Cinque Guess Marc O’Polo Clarks Ecco Hertha BSC Fanshop Massimo Dutti MOHRENSTRASSE Codello H&M Max & Co Cos Hallhuber Mephisto Deichmann Hollister Muji

LI N D EN

SELECTED SHOPS IN POTSDAMER PLATZ ARKADEN: 1.2.3 Mandarina Duck S E Mango PZIGER ST R A S L E IAmpelmann Anna Stern Marc O’Polo Bijou Brigitte Nara Camicie Bonita Palmers Camper Pandora Christ Potsdamer Platz Apotheke Deichmann Promod Douglas Puma Einblick Optik Quiksilver Esprit S Oliver Fast Forward Swarovski G-Star SE TR ASMaxx Gerry WeberZIM ME RSTK Tommy Hilfiger Guess Vero Moda H&M WE Habitat WMF Hunkemöller Wolford Kiko

studio. The handbag line follows a similar aesthetic; simple shapes are created in high-quality materials, including Italian leather. A hot pink style will stand out this season – or choose a black striped bag that combines different materials and textures for a look that is minimalist with a twist. Konk, Kleine Hamburger Strasse 15, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2809 7839, jamescastle.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 60

Department Store

Shopping Centre

S H O P | 59

LOCAL TIP

The inaugural European Street Food Awards come to Berlin on 30 September and 1 October 2017. The best of Europe’s street-food vans will descend upon the German capital to fight it out for titles in an array of categories, including European Street Food Champion. Be sure to come hungry, ready for delicious treats such as the pictured pulled pork sandwich from Big Stuff Smoked BBQ. biteclub.de

Unter Den Linden, Friedrichstrasse & Französische Strasse

E EN ST R

DUSSMANN ● KULTURKAUFHAUS

A SSE SC HA D OW

D O RO T H

R AS SE MI TT EL ST

ST R.

● STEFANEL

F RI ED R IC H

R A SSE

HAUSVOGTEIPLATZ ● AMPELMANN

MO HRE NST R

FASSBENDER ● & RAUSCH ● BANG & OLUFSEN

● MARC CAIN

STR A SSE

PHOTO: REBECCA CRAWFORD

A SSE

LEIPZIG ER ST

R AS SE

SSE

● FRANKONIA

R A SSE

KR ON EN ST

J ÄG E R S T R A

EN S T R .

GEOX ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● OUKAN ●

M AR KG R AF

G LIN K A S TR

BRILLE 4 ●

Galeries Lafayette P.30

Gendarmen Markt Quartier 205, 206, 207

MARINA RINALDI ● THOMAS SABO ● MAX MARA ● ST MOHR EN

ISCH E ST R .

● LE TANNEUR ● MAX & CO

ESCADA ● BUCHERER ● LÄDERACH ● S TA U B E N S T R A

● THE CORNER

F R A N ZÖ S

T RA SS E

TR SELECTED STORES IN QUARTIER 205, 206, 207: Dorothee Schumacher Etro Gant H&M Hellmann Wolford Marc Cain

A SSE

● WEMPE ● NAVYBOOT ● MONTBLANC ● H&M

JÄG E R S T R .

SSE

FRANZÖSISCHE STR.

NESPRESSO ● SANDRO ● ROECKL ● KARL LAGERFELD ● SWAROVSKI ● CADENZZA ● LEISER ●

B EHR ENS T R

LLSTR A

HEL

HUGO BOSS ● PANDORA ●

AT Z

FR IE D RI C HS

WIL

IITALLA ● KPM ● LACOSTE ●

EMPORIO ARMANI ●

ISCH E ST R

● & OTHER STORIES Bebel Platz ● H&M ● GENTLEMEN’S CIRCLE ● COS ● MASSIMO DUTTI

AMPELMANN ● NAPAPIJRI●

O B ER WA

LI N D EN

APOTHEKE FRIEDRICHSTADT ●

TR A SS BEHR ENS

DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM

B EB EL PL

MEISSEN ●

BRANDENBURGER TOR

● ESPRIT ● MARC O’POLO ● ZARA ● DOUGLAS

BIRKENSTOCK ● AKTIV SCHUHE ● TAMARIS● ● NIVEA HAUS

U N T ER D EN

F R A N ZÖ S

TSSTR . U N I V E R S I TÄ

● SHOE CITY ● TIMBERLAND

K RO N EN ST

STADTMITTE

A SSE

Hilton Hotel

RA SS E

L EIPZIGER S

TR A SSE

● TANDEM&TRANSIT ● FRAAS

KR AU SE NS

TR AS SE

● CYBERPORT

E Place Of Interest

Train Station

Hotel

U-Bahn

Featured In This Issue

60 | G U I D E

Alexanderplatz, Brückenstrasse, Linienstrasse, Neue Schönhauser Strasse & Rosenthaler Strasse SOTO STORE ●

NOVACANE ●

ALMST ADTSTR .

ALT ES CH

ACK STR .

IEN

LER

TR GS

SEN

MB XE

R. ST

RA RS

-B

. TR

CAMP 4 ●

E SS

DE N

SSE

TR A

ENS

CK S

DIR

● MAMMUT

STR

A SS

AIR O LT

ST RA

SSE

ER ST

ÜD

S T R A L A U R ST R .

MÄ

IS BERLIN STAR BEAUTY ● BERLIN STAR TAX FREE SHOP ●

TR AS

Liebeskind Mammut Media Markt Mexx Palmers Lejaby Picard Pilgrim Roland-Schuhe KLOSTERSTR. Runners Point S Oliver Side Step Street One Swatch Tally Weijl Tamaris The Body Shop Tommy Hilfiger Triumph Vero Moda RWE O L A NDUFER WMF Yves Rocher Zara Zero

TEN

ENS

Alexa Center

LIT

JÜD

● DECATHLON

SELECTED STORES IN ALEXA CENTER: Betty Barclay Biba Bijou Brigitte Camel Christ Colloseum Comma Deichmann Douglas EDC Esprit Eterna Fast Forward Fossil G-Star Gerry Weber H&M Jack Wolfskin Juwelier Classic Kookaï Levi’s ST

EI ND

● ULLA POPKEN US H A ● AKTIV SCHUH

BR LE

T RA

TZ LA

ÜH

R ST

● TK MAXX ● SHOE CITY

SATURN ● PROMOD ● ESPRIT ● NEW YORKER ●

TZ LA

PRIMARK ●

T Galeria KauÄof M W TS ● H E EC Y L E IL FR W KN ● IEB ● C&A L L A R ALEXANDERPLATZ

OS AC

● RENO

HL IE

S RA

T HS

SELECTED STORES IN HACKESCHE HÖFE: Ampelmann Gretchen H&M Jost Nike Store Mac Mango Mühle P.22 Oakley O-Store Peak Performance Profumo E Sandro SS Sawade T R A SS Stefanel AU Stones TH A Trippen R

● DESIGUAL

● MYKITA

OLYMP & HADES ●

SC FR

IC DR

A SSE

A- K

● ULF HAINES

STR

U IS

- LO

E S C H Ö H AUS N

-S

AUSBERLIN ●

NEUES MUSEUM CH

NEU

MÜ

HACKESCHER MARKT

S AR

DST

AL M S TA

STR

LER

THA

SEN

● ADIDAS ● AMERIC AN APPARE L TOMMY ● HILFIGE R ● DENHAM

● NIKE

● ROYAL REPUBLIK ● COS ● MISS SIXTY

● & OTHER STORIE S ● WEEKD AY ● RESPEC TMEN ● 14OZ ● CAMPE R ● MUJI ● BUFFALO

O R A N IE N B U R G E R ST

STR

● ACNE STUDIOS

A RH H L CA O S E HU E F GESTALTEN A ● H U G E SY L D N E C C ER S SC TH N SPACE ● EB A ● RE RR FE EDE ● B Y S ● R T FIT T R S T P EG E S W B UP L A A N N OU D / ● E L A F 7 N E J E BA ● FREITAG LAB BEN SHERMAN ● F R L R O Z 1 R / R P E UR ● A R I G E R T Y KO V I P E ● ● WRANGLER ● WAGNER K A Ö OAKLEY ● ● ● T G DR M ● TR . ● ELEVENPARIS S MCM ● NEU ● ● ● SER ● CONVERSE E S C H Ö H AU N MICHAEL KORS ● ● HALLHUBER

Hackesche Höfe

STR AS SE

● PRO QM

HORIZN ● STUDIOS AG

T RT

COMME DES ● GARÇONS

LIN

THA

MUL

PR EN ZL

ÖN

● RIANNA + NINA

AU ER

STR .

HA US ER

A KIND OF GUISE ●

L EE

STRASS E

LALA BERLIN ●

P.54

P.58

● KONK

● MELAMPO LINIEN

AD ● DEERTZ

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

U-Bahn

Train Station

Shopping Centre/Mall

S H O P | 61

DAY TRIP DESIGNER OUTLET BERLIN Discover over 100 top international brands, all reduced by up to 70%, as well as delicious dining options at Designer Outlet Berlin.

Designer Outlet Berlin, Alter Spandauer Weg 1, 14641 Wustermark, +49 (0)33 234 9040, designeroutletberlin.com

OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sundays and public holidays: closed

PERFECT DAY ELSTAL STATION

Designer Outlet Berlin

BERLIN CENTRAL STATION

B5 B5

BERLIN

A10

11am Start the day with a splash of colour and a selection of vibrant prints at distinctive Spanish label Desigual.

A10

12pm Admire the high-quality tailoring at Hugo Boss. Expect a perfect fit across the range. POTSDAM STATION

P OT SDA M

HOW TO GET THERE By car From Berlin: follow Heerstrasse on the B5 to Spandau, continue until you see the junction signposted Designer Outlet Berlin. From Potsdam: follow the Berlin ring road westward (A10), taking the junction for Berlin-Spandau B5. By bus and train From Berlin: take regional train RE4 towards Rathenow and get off at Elstal Station. Continue with bus 662 to Designer Outlet Berlin. From Potsdam: take regional train RB21 towards Wustermark to Priort Station. Continue with bus 662 to Designer Outlet Berlin. By taxi From Berlin city centre: approximately 40 minutes. From Potsdam city centre: approximately 20 minutes.

Train Station

Outlet Village

Coach Station

1pm Take a break at San Francisco Coffee Company where rare and speciality coffees are sure to provide an afternoon pick-me-up. 3pm Escada is known for its elegant womenswear designs. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re seeking eveningwear or formal attire for all your seasonal engagements, you need look no further. 5pm End your day among the sparkling crystals at Swarovski. The label is known for its precision cuts and clarity as well as its elegant jewellery.

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

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Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Berlin Schönefeld Airport Terminal A, Departures, next to customs Berlin Tegel Airport Terminal A, next to the café-bar Downtown Berlin KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24 Galeria Kaufhof, Alexanderplatz 9 (customer service centre, fifth floor) Dresden Airport Terminal B, opposite customs in the airport service area Leipzig Airport/Halle Central Terminal, Lufthansa ticket/information counter in the check-in area; the Global Blue Refund Office is opposite customs

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Refund Offices At all airport Refund Offices, go to customs before check-in

66 71

TRANSLATIONS 中文翻译 32: Word On The Street 街头宣言

无论是国际大牌还是小众品牌，运动装一直是街头穿搭的主打元素。Dominique Fenn深入分析这一风靡全球的装扮风格，及其在柏林时尚界的重要地位运动装侧面的三条线，棉质 T恤上形如闪电的钩子，绣在马球衫上的桂冠标志，以及套头衫袖子上由两颗闪亮纽扣固定的徽章— — 这些极具辨识度的人气运动品牌，如今已摇身成为人们的日常装扮出现在街头巷尾。没有人会认错阿迪达斯、耐克、Fred Perry和 Stone Island的商标，这样的品牌简直就像制服一样，为不同的人营造出某种归属感。这些倍受信赖的品牌通常受到青少年的青睐，他们既渴望脱颖而出，又期盼与周围的人融洽相处。社会生活和青年文化交织在一起，每一代人都希望通过不同的方式表达自我。正如 70年代和 80年代的朋克、摩登复兴派和休闲一族一样，探寻自己的风格是成长的必经之路。然而，近年来，紧跟时尚潮流的可不仅是小年轻了。设计师和顾客不断虚化时装界的传统划分界限，运动装和街头时装正在合而为一。时隔数十年，我们再次目睹运动装在球场和更衣室之外大行其道。据报道，2015年阿迪达斯在全球共售出 800万双 Stan Smiths运动鞋。而根据品牌官方数据，从 1973 年这家德国运动装巨头推出这款白色网球鞋到 2015 年间，累计售出了超过 4000万双。这一方面要归功于复古运动鞋的重新流行，另一方面，许多崇尚极简风格的重量级人物 — — 比如 Céline创意总监 Phoebe

Philo— — 在时尚女性中间掀起了一股平底鞋的热潮。纪梵希（ Givenchy）的罗威纳（ Rottweiler）连帽运动衫同样在时尚界掀起了轩然大波。这款明星单品以柔和而宽松的廓形，模糊了女装和男装的界限。接着，2014年 Demna Gvasalia携手 Vetements火热登场，宽松连帽衫和飞行员夹克炙手可热，一时间风头无两。时间快进到 2017年，下至年轻人上至时装编辑

都热切期盼着 Supreme的最新作品，各大城市的忠实粉丝不惜排上几小时的队伍，甚至彻夜等候，只为抢购其最新款式。曾经的小众非主流品牌 Supreme与路易威登的合作可谓万众期待，两家携手奉上潮流爆款和高级时装的美妙碰撞。不久以前，美国户外服装品牌北面（ The North Face）还只是远足者、自行车手和户外活动爱好者的 globalblue.cn

宠儿，与 Supreme的合作却让该品牌一夜之间名声大

购物的感觉，” Voo Store创意总监 Herbert Hofmann

噪。此外，具有社会责任感的专业运动服装品牌

表示。“ 没有压力，也没有金碧辉煌的精品店风范。”

Patagonia曾经仅仅被资深探险家视为心头所好，如今也已成为许多都市人的不二选择。运动品牌的泡沫还没有破裂，至少在柏林是这样

Voo位于风格粗旷的十字山区（ Kreuzberg），坐落于一幢建筑的底层，这里的前身是一家锁匠铺。该地区是非主流文化和艺术的聚集地。在近 300平方米

的。这座城市拥有繁荣的亚文化，以开放的态度和另

由毛坯水泥墙搭建起来的空间和广阔的庭院中，顾客

类夜店场景而闻名。这里的个人风格有着明显的朋克

可以欣赏到木品设计师和景观艺术家轮流展出的作

气质。虽然街头服饰是全球通用语言，真正不同凡响

品，也可以聆听该店的精选歌单，或阅读书籍来打发

的乃是其背后的态度和理念。要在网上搜寻可靠佳作

时间。Voo店内还有超人气的 Companion Coffee咖啡

绝非易事。所幸，柏林拥有不少全世界最激动人心的

店，供应全柏林最炙手可热的美味咖啡。

独立精品店。

No74是一家隶属于阿迪达斯的精品店，只有内行

然而，这种悠闲并不意味着慵懒。Voo的创意团队在世界各地积极搜寻宝贝，荟萃了来自耐克、阿迪达

人才知道其背后的渊源。店内汇集了各式各样的阿迪

斯、Raf Simons和 Marni等品牌的海量时尚 T恤、惹

达斯和 Y- 3运动鞋，还可以找到所有 Raf Simons和

火的比基尼与别具一格的晚礼服。

Rick Owens的合作款式。夜幕降临，精品店时常摇身变成英式酒吧，举行狂欢派对。

Overkill是柏林另一处购买运动鞋的天堂，店内

“总体而言，我们的思维和心灵与大自然非常亲近，近来更是如此，”为特意阐述这种审美观，Hofmann提及了普拉达（ Prada）2017/ 18年秋冬

有一整面墙专用于陈列运动鞋。该店的库存种类十分

季系列中一件简朴的 V领羊毛衫。“ 我们尽可能地向工

丰富，首席执行官 Thomas Peiser也因而在柏林备受

艺以及源自大自然的材料和产品投去更多关注。我们

尊崇。店内的运动鞋款式之多令人惊叹，既囊括了耐

更青睐亚麻和羊毛这样的材料，以及更加经久耐穿的

克、阿迪达斯和彪马等热门大牌的经典之作和全新款式，亦包括亚瑟士（ Asics）和鬼冢虎（ Onitsuka Tiger）等近年来人气骤升的品牌。精品店充满了街头艺术的气息，陈列着大量涂鸦工具，同时也提供一系列精选男式和女式运动装。运动装打入时装界的最佳范例莫过于其悄然进驻多家柏林备受推崇的时装概念店。因现代原创男装而广受当地时尚人士喜爱的男装商场 Soto，彪马和阿迪达斯等运动品牌与 Dries Van Noten、Acne Studios 和 Raf Simons等时装大牌同场竞技。一起亮相的还有

Filling Pieces和 Eytys这两大追随者如云的新兴运动鞋专业品牌。如此看来，运动服饰做为日常装束，还会大有气候。

36: Cool Concepts 酷炫理念柏林最优秀的精品店不单单提供诱人的商品，还有更多精彩。William Lee Adams带您探索将购物体验推至新高度的概念商店从恣意狂欢的夜生活到自由奔放的艺术创作盛景，柏林因其兼容并蓄的城市风格而闻名于世。柏林的时装覆必须以严肃冷酷、井然有序的形式展现时尚的刻板观点。相反，舒适的环境和古怪的风格大行其道，零售店纷纷摇身成为休闲体验店，邀请顾客随意浏览、驻足徘徊。 “ 我们希望打造出一种自由的氛围，让客人尽情探索我们展示和提供的所有设计和作品，而不会有强制 globalblue.cn

PHOTO: BERT HOUBRECHTS

界亦是如此。高端精品店正在抛弃庄严的仪式感，颠

款型。” 在 Bless也可以体验到这般轻松怡人的气氛。这家备受推崇的德国品牌坐落在高档的米特区（ Mitte）和

料再现以往的经典作品，推陈出新，并且添加些符合

充满艺术风情的普伦茨劳贝格区（ Prenzlauer Berg）

潮流的细节。”并不只有时尚界人士才会留意大胆前

的交界处，深藏于一栋居民楼三楼的一间公寓中。顾

卫、紧跟潮流的设计。部分亮丽围巾、印花 T恤和针织

客不但会感觉仿佛漫步于某个波西米亚风情的私人住

衫在公寓的开放式衣橱和衣架上亮相之前，曾在巴黎

宅，他们实际上正是身处其中。

现代艺术博物馆和蓬皮杜中心展出。

摄影师 Bert Houbrechts就住在公寓中，他会为客

在柏林的 The Store精品店，您也可以感受到家

人端上一杯茶，邀请他们坐下来聊聊天。每周六，还有

一般的温馨。The Store位于 Soho House私人俱乐

来自日本的发型师提供美发服务。“ 我们想要吸引那些

部，迎接八方来客，既接待入住俱乐部酒店的贵宾，也

想找个地方静静欣赏作品的客人，而不是开成一家商

欢迎关注时尚的当地人前来消磨时间。这个综合性的

店 — — 客人可以漫不经心地随意浏览，”创意总监 Ines

零售场所设计风格偏近于私人住宅，集美食、时尚、艺

Kaag表示。几年前，她将 Bless搬出了相对传统的旧

术展览、共享办公空间和摄影展于一体，邀请顾客在

址。“ 我们认为，搬到私人场所可以营造出相逢与相识

占地 2800平方米的超大空间度过悠闲时光。

的乐趣。”

精心打造的时装区荟萃了 The Row、Issey Miyake和 Proenza Schouler等品牌。时尚人士可以在

该品牌在 1997年崭露头角，当时 Martin

PHOTO: REBECCA CRAWFORD

循传统的方式，” Kaag说道，并指出公寓内到处都是过去和当前季度的单品。“ 我们每个季度会以不同的面

Margiela让秀台上的模特戴上了由毛皮制成的 Bless

数不胜数的隐蔽角落一边品尝香醇拿铁，一边翻看光

假发。这个天马行空的品牌一举成名，独特的设计突

鲜亮丽的茶几读物和杂志。几乎所有的一切都可供出

破了风格的界限，在时尚、美容、内饰和艺术领域佳作

售 — — 无论是演奏的音乐、燃烧的蜡烛，还是客人“血

频出。自诞生以来，品牌凭借无限创作灵感，主打中性

拼 ”后休息的沙发。购买之前，您可以在时尚靓丽且无

服饰，推出了驼色开司米连帽大衣，融合了日光橙和玫

比舒适的环境中试用和享受商品。虽然快速便捷的在

瑰粉的亮眼围巾，还有色彩迷人的针织套头衫，包括

线购物为实体店带来了一定威胁，但有些体验是无法

鲜橙、天空蓝和棕色等。

在屏幕上复制的。凭借着亲切友好的服务、顾客至上

传统的时装大牌每个季度都力求推倒重来，但

Bless却崇尚顺其自然地发展。“ 我们在创作时没有遵

的理念和新颖独到的创意，柏林最好的精品店似乎已经牢牢掌握让普通客人变成回头客的奥秘。

62: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税当您在全球顶级购物区中的 30多万家商店消费时，环球蓝联购物退税服务（ Global Blue Tax Free

Shopping）为您节省购物开销。每年大约有两千六百多万名旅客享用环球蓝联（ Global Blue）的购物退税服务，何不加入他们的行列？您只需在购物时留意环球蓝联（ Global Blue）的蓝星标志，或直接问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（ Global Blue）退税服务，然后遵循以下简单的退税流程即可：

1. 购物消费无论您在哪里购物，请向商家索要环球蓝联退税表格（ Global Blue Tax Free Form），并保存票据。

2. 申领退税在您返程离境前，请前往海关柜台，出示退税表格和相关票据，获取海关印章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点领取退税款。联系方式：

taxfree@ globalblue. com + 421 232 111 111 最低消费 € 25即可申请退税，能够节省高达购买商品价14. 5%的税。请注意：您收到的退税款是增值税减去环球蓝联的手续费。如果您选择现金退税，部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退税手续费。

32: Word On The Street Голос улиц Спортивная одежда стала униформой улиц, и это заметили все: от международных корпораций до нишевых брендов. Доминик Фенн пытается понять секрет такой популярности, в том числе на модной сцене Берлина Три полоски на спортивных штанах; плавная галочка на хлопчатобумажной футболке; лавровый венок, вышитый на рубашке-поло и нашивка с двумя пуговицами на куртке – все это отличительные знаки популярных спортивных брендов, ставших для многих повседневной одеждой. globalblue.cn | globalblue.ru

Вы без труда смогли бы узнать любую из этих фирм – Adidas, Nike, Fred Perry или Stone Island. Бренды стали униформой нестандартного и символом принадлежности. Их в первую очередь носят тинейджеры, которые хотят выделиться и влиться в компанию. Социальная сфера и молодежная культура тесно переплетены, и представители новых поколений каждый раз пытаются найти новый способ для самовыражения. Выбор определенного стиля – это своего рода обряд посвящения, как для панков, так и для последователей модов и неформалов 1970-х и 80-х. Однако в последние годы не только молодежь старается перенять последние тренды. Спортивная и уличная мода сливаются воедино по мере того, как дизайнеры и

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД

PHOTO: ROBERT WUNSCH

покупатели начинают избегать традиционной классификации. Прошло не одно десятилетие с тех пор, как мы видели возрождение спортивных брендов, которые стали носить за пределами спортзалов и беговых дорожек. В 2015 году компания Adidas реализовала восемь миллионов пар кроссовок Stan Smiths по всему миру. Для справки: между 1973 годом, когда немецкий спортивный гигант впервые выпустил белые кроссовки для тенниса, и 2015 годом компания продала более 40 миллионов пар, согласно официальным данным. Возрождение интереса к кроссовкам в стиле ретро – лишь одна из причин таких показателей, в то время как значительную роль здесь также сыграли знаменитости, в том числе, французский дизайнер Фиби Фило из Céline, благодаря которой многие женщины стали носить обувь на плоской подошве. Среди других событий можно выделить популяризацию толстовки с капюшоном Givenchy Rottweiler, которая стала культовой и слегка размыла границу между мужской и женской одеждой. Затем мы могли наблюдать резкий взлет Демны Гвасалии в Vetements в 2014 году с толстовками свободного покроя и куртками-бомберами, которые были на вес золота. И вот настал 2017 год, и все подряд: от молодежи до редакторов моды, предвкушают выпуск новой коллекции Supreme, при этом некоторые даже занимают ради этого очередь, в которой приходится стоять всю ночь. Долгожданная коллаборация между Louis Vuitton и Supreme – в прошлом нишевого бренда – ознаменовала столкновение высокой

и хипстерской моды. Американский бренд The North Face до недавних пор был в основном популярен среди поклонников активных видов спорта, включая туристов, велосипедистов и всех любителей природы. После коллаборации с Supreme престиж бренда увеличился в мгновение ока. Марка профессионального спортивного снаряжения Patagonia когда-то была объектом внимания главным образом серьезных туристов, теперь же среди ее поклонников обычные городские жители. Таких примеров много, особенно в Берлине – городе, где вовсю кипит жизнь и процветают субкультуры, городе, известном своим либерализмом и альтернативной музыкой. Индивидуальный стиль здесь имеет выраженные черты панка. Хотя уличная одежда является своего рода универсальным языком, она подчеркивает нравы и оригинальность мышления. Для того, чтобы ориентироваться на рынке ретейлеров требуется немало сноровки. К счастью, в Берлине находится масса интересных независимых бутиков. Магазин No74 принадлежит компании Adidas, хотя догадываются об этом не многие. Здесь представлен широкий выбор коллекций Adidas и Y-3, а также обувь из коллаборационных коллекций Рафа Симонса и Рика Оуэнса. Тут часто проводят вечеринки, и тогда магазин на время превращается в английский паб. Overkill – еще один популярный берлинский магазин спортивных товаров, где целая стена посвящена одним только кроссовкам. Управляющий магазина Томас Пайзер пользуется глубоким уважением в городе благодаря разнообразию ассортимента. Выбор впечатлят воображение и включает как классические, так и новые модели от таких фаворитов, как Nike, Adidas и Puma, а также от брендов, которые только недавно обрели популярность, например, Asics и Onitsuka Tiger. Судя по убранству и граффити на стенах, бутик имеет тесные связи с миром стрит-арта, а также предлагает хороший выбор спортивной одежды для мужчин и женщин. Пожалуй, лучшим примером интеграции спортивной одежды в мировую индустрию моды является включение ряда брендов в ассортимент лучших берлинских концепт-сто-

36: Cool Concepts Стильные концепции Лучшие бутики в Берлине предлагают увлекательный шоппинг и не только. Уильям Ли Адамс делает обзор концептуальных магазинов, предлагающих совершенно новый уровень обслуживания От стильных ночных клубов до галерей современного искусства: Берлин приобрел репутацию города, который не привык следовать правилам. То же самое можно сказать и о местной моде. Дорогие бутики стараются избавиться от формальностей и правил, согласно которым роскошная одежда должна быть холодная, структурная и суровая. Вместо этого здесь преобладает комфорт и причудливость, благодаря чему торговые пространства превращаются в места для отдыха, где люди могут проводить долгое время. «Мы хотели создать атмосферу, которая позволит людям насладиться представленными вещами, не чувствуя при этом обязанности непременно что-то покупать, – говорит Герберт Хофманн, креативный директор Voo Store. – Здесь никто ни к чему не обязывает, а в интерьере отсутствует претенциозность, присущая модным бутикам». Магазин Voo Store, расположенный в районе Кройберг – центре контркультуры и искусства, занимает нижний этаж бывшей замочной мастерской. В помещении площадью 300 м2, окруженном неотделанными бетонными стенами, посетители могут насладиться вращающимися инсталляциями с работами самых разных мастеров, от globalblue.ru

плотников до художников ландшафтного дизайна, или же просто послушать музыку и полистать книги, коих здесь в изобилии. Все это доступно в отделе Companion Coffee, где подают один из самых изысканных кофе в городе. Беззаботная обстановка однако не означает ленивая. Креативная команда Voo обыскивает весь земной шар в поисках оригинальных вещиц, в числе которых можно встретить шикарные футболки, откровенные бикини и вечерние платья от таких брендов, как Nike, Adidas, Raf Simons и Marni. «Наши умы и сердца бьются в унисон с природой особенно в эти дни, – говорит Хофманн, приводя в пример скромный шерстяной свитер из коллекции Prada осень-зима 2017/18, как лучше всего характеризующий эстетику магазина. – Мы уделяем особое внимание мастерству, натуральным материалам и продуктам насколько это возможно. Основу наших коллекций составляют такие материалы, как лен, шерсть и все, что имеет долгий срок службы». Похожая беззаботная атмосфера царит в Bless – престижном немецком бренде,

PHOTO: BERT HOUBRECHTS

ров. В бутике мужской одежды Soto, популярном среди местных стиляг благодаря современному и оригинальному ассортименту, можно встретить такие бренды, как Dries Van Noten, Acne Studios и Raf Simons наряду со спортивными гигантами вроде Puma и Adidas. Здесь также представлены Filling Pieces и Eytys – две молодых компании по выпуску спортивной обуви. Похоже, что тенденция носить спортивную одежду в качестве повседневной продержится еще довольно долго.

The worldwide known specialist for traditional German Christmas decorations and unique handmade gifts.

In 7 major tourist locations in Germany, always in the city center

The Christmas Shopping Experience Berlin · Kurfürstendamm 225/226

· worldwide shipping · · TAX FREE · Shopping from home visit our online-shop:

www.wohlfahrt.com

xperience in our year-round stores the love for traditions and beauty. Discover throughout the year the largest selection of traditional German Christmas decorations like nutcrackers, Christmas pyramids, incense smokers, music boxes, light arches, Christmas tree ornaments made of glass, wood and pewter and much more in an enchanting atmosphere.

e also carry in our stores a large variety of German souvenirs, cuckoo clocks and

exclusive products from world-famous German brands as well as the lovely and handmade products from our own artist workshop, the “Rothenburger Weihnachtswerkstatt”.

on’t miss a visit to one of our stores in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Nuremberg, Oberammergau, Heidelberg, Bamberg, Miltenberg or Rüdesheim. We are looking forward to your visit!

магазин которого расположен на третьем этаже жилого здания в обычной квартире, на границе районов Митте и Пренцлауэр-Берг. Посетителям не нужно ощущать, что они попали в чье-то богемное жилище, потому что так на самом деле и есть. Живет здесь фотограф Берт Хубрехтс, который встречает покупателей чашкой чая и усаживает их на диван для беседы. По субботам здесь даже можно подстричься у парикмахера из Японии. «Мы хотим пойти навстречу тем людям, которые хотят приобрести что-то в неформальной обстановке, где можно расслабиться», – говорит креативный директор Инес Кааг. Несколько лет назад она решила перебазировать Bless из более традиционного места: «Мы подумали, что переезд в домашнюю обстановку поможет создать ту атмосферу, которая приносит нам удовольствие». Бренд приобрел известность в 1997 году, когда Мартин Маржела использовал меховые

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парики Bless для своего шоу-показа. Это дало отличный старт бренду, который размывает границы стилей и предлагает широкий ассортимент продукции самых разных направлений, включая одежду, косметику, а также предметы интерьера и искусства. Бренд в том числе стал популярен благодаря оригинальным андрогинным образам. Так в магазине можно обнаружить бежевые кашемировые пальто с капюшоном; яркие шарфы, сочетающие оранжевый с розовым; а также красочные трикотажные джемперы оранжевых, голубых и коричневых оттенков. В отличие от традиционных домов моды, которые зачастую пересматривают свои старые коллекции сезон за сезоном, марка Bless предпочитает развиваться гармонично. «Мы не выпускаем коллекции в их привычном понимании, – говорит Кааг, чей бутик наполнен вещами из прошлого и текущего сезона. – Мы определили для себя классические модели и с каждым сезоном просто меняем ткань и добавляем то, что считаем нужным». Креативные и постоянно эволюционирующие творения бренда попали в поле зрения отнюдь не только знатоков моды. Прежде чем оказаться на вешалках в магазине бренда, фирменные шарфы, футболки и свитера побывали на выставке в парижском Музее современного искусства и в Национальном центре искусства и культуры Жоржа Помпиду. Идея домашнего уюта оказалась также близкой по духу магазину The Store Berlin. Он расположен в здании частного клуба Soho House, но вход открыт всем: от знаменитостей, останавливающихся в отеле клуба, до местных, которые хотят интересно провести время. Это гибридное пространство площадью 2800 м2, спроектированное таким образом, чтобы напоминать уютный дом, приглашает посетителей в чудесную страну, в которой воедино смешалась еда, мода, арт-инсталляции, коворкинг и фотоэкспозиции. Секция одежды вмещает коллекции таких марок, как The Row, Issey Miyake и Proenza Schouler, кроме того, здесь предусмотрено множество укромных уголков, где хипстеры могут попить свое латте, листая книжку или журнал. Практически все представленное в

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‫أن تُعلّق يف خزانات الشقّة املفتوحة‪ُ ،‬عرضت بعض أوشحتها املذهلة‬ ‫وقمصانها املنقوشة وكنزاتها املحبوكة يف متحف ‪Musée d’Art‬‬ ‫‪ Moderne de la Ville de Paris‬و‪.Centre Pompidou‬‬ ‫محل لدى ‪The Store‬‬ ‫تتك ّرر فكرة الشعور يف املنزل داخل ّ‬ ‫‪ .Berlin‬يقع داخل النادي الخاص ‪ Soho House‬وهو متاح‬ ‫للجميع‪ ،‬من نزالء فندق النادي الرفيعي املستوى إىل املحليّني املتتبّعني‬ ‫املحل‬ ‫للموضة الذين يبحثون عن مكان لقضاء الوقت‪ .‬ص ّمم هذا ّ‬ ‫عىل هيئة منز ٍل خاص يدعو الز ّوار إىل التج ّول يف ‪ 2800‬مرتٍ مربّعٍ‬ ‫من الروعة حيث ميز’ مبهارة الطعام باألزياء والف ّن ومساحات العمل‬ ‫املشرتكة ومعارض الصور‪.‬‬ ‫يشمل قسم املالبس املختارة بعناية ابتكارات من ‪The Row‬‬ ‫و‪ Issey Miyake‬و‪ Proenza Schouler‬وغريها وميكن احتساء‬ ‫القهوة مع الحليب وتصفّح الكتب واملجالت يف عدّة زوايا‪ .‬يف الواقع‪،‬‬ ‫كل يشء للبيع يف هذا املكان‪ ،‬من املوسيقى املسموعة إىل الشموع‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫املشتعلة والكنبات التي يسرتيح عليها الز ّوار بعد جولة تس ّوق مط ّولة‪.‬‬ ‫يُقدّم هنا مبدأ تجربة الغرض قبل رشائه بطريقة مختلفة ومريحة‪.‬‬ ‫يف الوقت الذي تهدّد سهولة الرشاء عرب اإلنرتنت املحالت الفعليّة‪،‬‬ ‫ال ميكن اختبار بعض التجارب أمام الشاشة‪ .‬لكن يبدو أنّه من خالل‬ ‫املقاربات املبتكرة الصديقة للزبائن املعتمدة من قبل أفضل محالت‬ ‫برلني‪ ،‬وجدت هذه األخرية طريق ًة لضامن عودتنا إليها مر ّة بعد أخرى‪.‬‬ ‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 62‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الرضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكرث من‬ ‫‪ 300,000‬متجر يف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العامل‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ال تنض ّم إىل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫دفع الرضيبة من خالل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫عليك إال أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫أينام تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عىل طلب اسرتداد الرضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصاالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫يف طريق العودة إىل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجامرك عند نقطة‬ ‫املغادرة لتتم املصادقة عىل إيصاالتك قبل قبض االسرتداد من أحد‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫مكاتب االسرتداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لالتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪111 111 232 +421‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدىن قدره ‪ €25‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14.5%‬من مثن مشرتياتك‪.‬‬

‫يشمل مبلغ االسرتداد النهايئ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الرضيبة‬ ‫عىل القيمة املضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬يف بعض املطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض‬ ‫رسم خدمة نقدي عىل كل طلب اسرتداد ضيبة يف حال رغبت‬ ‫بالحصول عىل اسرتداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫‪залах можно купить: начиная от музыки и‬‬ ‫‪свечек и заканчивая гостевыми диванами. Это‬‬ ‫‪дает прекрасную возможность ознакомиться с‬‬ ‫‪товаром перед покупкой.‬‬ ‫‪Доступность интернет-шоппинга угрожает‬‬ ‫‪обычным магазинам, однако последние не‬‬ ‫‪сдаются, предлагая уникальный опыт, который‬‬ ‫‪не получится воспроизвести на экране‬‬ ‫‪электронного устройства. Похоже, что лучшие‬‬ ‫‪берлинские бутики с их теплой, дружеской‬‬ ‫‪атмосферой и индивидуальным подходом‬‬ ‫‪нашли способ, как заставить покупателей‬‬ ‫‪возвращаться к ним снова и снова.‬‬ ‫‪62: When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free‬‬ ‫‪Совершая покупки по всему миру,‬‬ ‫‪совершайте их с Tax Free‬‬ ‫‪Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят‬‬ ‫‪вам сэкономить на покупках в более чем‬‬ ‫‪300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых‬‬ ‫‪лучших шоппинг районах мира.‬‬ ‫‪Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26‬‬ ‫‪миллионам путешественников, совершающих‬‬ ‫?‪покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год‬‬ ‫‪Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите‬‬ ‫‪о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным‬‬ ‫‪инструкциям.‬‬ ‫‪1. В магазине‬‬ ‫‪Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите‬‬ ‫‪Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.‬‬ ‫‪2. При выезде‬‬ ‫‪Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления,‬‬ ‫‪пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить‬‬ ‫‪ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из‬‬ ‫‪наших офисов.‬‬ ‫‪Контакты:‬‬ ‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫‪Потратьте минимум 25 евро и сэкономьте до‬‬ ‫‪14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста,‬‬ ‫‪примите к сведению, что конечная сумма‬‬ ‫‪возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус‬‬ ‫‪административная комиссия. В некоторых‬‬ ‫‪аэропортах при возврате наличными‬‬ ‫‪взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.‬‬

‫‪72‬‬

‫املبسط كذلك لدى العالمة األملانيّة العريقة ‪Bless‬‬ ‫يسود الطابع ّ‬

‫من حياتها اللّيليّة الصاخبة إىل ساحتها الفنيّة املتح ّررة‪ ،‬تُعرف برلني‬ ‫الواقعة يف شقّة يف الطابق الثالث من مبنى سكني عىل الحدود بني‬ ‫تتخىل‬ ‫مبخالفة القواعد‪ .‬وينطبق ذلك أيضاً عىل ساحة األزياء فيها‪ّ .‬‬ ‫منطقة ‪ Mitte‬الراقية و‪ Prenzlauer Berg‬الفنيّة‪ .‬ال يشعر الز ّوار‬ ‫محالتها الفاخرة عن األسلوب الرسمي وتناقض الفكرة السا“دة‬ ‫أنّهم يتج ّولون يف منز ٍل بوهيمي فحسب‪ ،‬بل إنّهم يف هكذا منزل عن‬ ‫برضورة أن تقرتن األناقة بالربودة والتنظيم الهيكل والقساوة‪ .‬بل‬ ‫حق‪ .‬هنا تعيش املص ّورة ‪ Bert Houbrechts‬وتستقبل الز ّوار‬ ‫تعتمد األسلوب املريح والغريب مح ِّول ًة مساحاتها إىل أماكن تسلية‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بكوب من الشاي وتدعوهم للجلوس والتحدّث‪ .‬كام يأيت إىل املكان‬ ‫حيث ميكن األشخاص التج ّول وقضاء بعض الوقت‪ .‬يقول ‪Herbert‬‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫لقص الشعر أيّام السبت‪ .‬تقول املص ّممة االبتكاريّة‬ ‫‪ ،Hofmann‬املدير االبتكاري ملتجر ‪“ :Voo Store‬أردنا أن نبتكر‬ ‫مصفّف شع ٍر ياباين ّ‬ ‫وكل ما نعرضه ‪“ :Ines Kaag‬نريد الوصول إىل أشخاص يبحثون عن مكانٍ ميكنهم‬ ‫مساحة حيث يشعر الناس بالحريّة الستكشاف التصاميم ّ‬ ‫ونقدّمه من دون أن يشعروا بوجوب رشاء يشء ما‪ .‬ال منارس أي ضغوط أن يروا فيه ما لدينا‪ ،‬من دون أن يكون محالً – حيث يتج ّول الزبا“ن‬ ‫أحياناً بدون تركيز”‪ .‬انتقلت من مكانٍ تقليدي إىل ‪ Bless‬منذ بضع‬ ‫وال نوحي بالفخامة الفا“قة‪”.‬‬ ‫خاص‪ ،‬قد نحظى باللّقاء‬ ‫يقع متجر ‪ Voo‬يف منطقة ‪ Kreuzberg‬املرصوفة بالحىص‬ ‫سنوات وتقول‪“ :‬شعرنا أنّه باالنتقال إىل موقعٍ ّ‬ ‫وهي مركز للثقافة املضادة والف ّن‪ ،‬يشغل الطابق األريض من مبنى كان الذي نتمناه‪”.‬‬ ‫برزت العالمة عىل الساحة سنة ‪ 1997‬عندما أرسل ‪Martin‬‬ ‫يف السابق مصنعاً لألقفال‪ .‬وسط ‪ 300‬مرتٍ مربّع من الجدران اإلسمنتيّة‬ ‫املنصة بباروكات العالمة من الفرو‪.‬‬ ‫مبجسامت تستدير‬ ‫‪ Margiela‬عارضات أزياء عىل ّ‬ ‫الخام وباحة شاسعة‪ ،‬ميكن الز ّوار إمتاع نظرهم ّ‬ ‫فشكّلت بداية مالمئة لهذه العالمة الفريدة من نوعها‪ ،‬والتي تبدّد‬ ‫ورسامي مناظر طبيعيّة أو االستامع إىل‬ ‫من ابتكار مص ّممي أخشاب ّ‬ ‫حدود التألّق بتصاميمها‪ ،‬فتقدّم ابتكارات يف مجاالت األزياء والتجميل‬ ‫كل ذلك متاح يف مقهى ‪Voo‬‬ ‫املوسيقى واالطّالع عىل الكتب الكثرية‪ّ .‬‬ ‫والتصميم الداخل والف ّن‪ .‬ومذّاك‪ ،‬استم ّرت يف اإللهام من خالل مالبس‬ ‫الشهري ‪ Companion Coffee‬حيث تُقدّم القهوة األشهى يف‬ ‫مناسبة للجنسني تشمل معاطف من الكشمري بلون الب ّني املصف ّر‬ ‫املدينة‪.‬‬ ‫مز ّودة بقبّعات؛ وأوشحة ملفتة لألنظار متزج ألواناً كالربتقايل الناصع‬ ‫إال أ ّن هذا االسرتخاء ال يعني الكسل‪ .‬يجوب فريق ‪ Voo‬العامل‬ ‫والزهر الوري؛ وكنزات محبوكة ذات ألوانٍ متألّقة كالربتقايل املحروق‬ ‫باحثاً عن الكنوز فيجمع تشكيلة را“عة من التيشتس األنيقة ومالبس‬ ‫السباحة املثرية وفساتني السهرة امللهمة من عالمات تتن ّوع بني ‪ Nike‬واألزرق الساموي والب ّني‪.‬‬ ‫عىل عكس دور األزياء التقليديّة التي تسعى بالعادة إىل إعادة‬ ‫و‪ Adidas‬و‪ Raf Simons‬و‪.Marni‬‬ ‫ابتكار نفسها من موسمٍ إىل آخر‪ ،‬تفضّ ل ‪ Bless‬أن تزدهر رويدا ً رويدا ً‪.‬‬ ‫يقول ‪“ :Hofmann‬قلوبنا وعقولنا قريبة ج ّدا ً من الطبيعة‬ ‫تقول ‪ Kaag‬يف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬ال نطلق املجموعات عىل الطريقة‬ ‫بشكلٍ عا ّم وحتّى أقرب هذه األيّام”‪ ،‬ويعطي مثاالً عن هذا األسلوب‬ ‫الكالسيكيّة” مشري ًة إىل وجود قطعٍ من مواسم قدمية وجديدة يف‬ ‫مستعيناً بكنزة صوفيّة ذي ياقة عىل هيئة عالمة نرص من مجموعة‬ ‫كل موسم بأقمشة‬ ‫الشقّة‪“ .‬حاولنا ابتكار قطعٍ كالسيكيّة جديدة تتك ّرر ّ‬ ‫‪ Prada‬لخريف‪/‬شتاء ‪ .2017/2018‬يضيف‪“ :‬نركّز قدر املستطاع‬ ‫مختلفة ونضيف إليها أي يشء يطرأ‪ ”.‬تجدر اإلشارة إىل أ ّن التصاميم‬ ‫عىل املهارة واملواد واملنتجات املستخرجة طبيعيّاً‪ .‬منيل إىل مواد عىل‬ ‫الجريئة واملتط ّورة أبدا ً لدى العالمة ال تجذب ر ّواد املوضة فحسب‪ .‬قبل‬ ‫سبيل الكتّان والصوف وإىل أساليب ال تفنى مع مرور الوقت‪”.‬‬

‫‪PHOTO: KIRCHNER KUTT‬‬

‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪73‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪Word On The Street :32‬‬

‫حديث الشارع‬

‫الزي امل ُعتمد يف الشارع اليوم‪ ،‬لدى العالمات‬ ‫املالبس الرياضيّة هي ّ‬

‫التجاريّة العامليّة وتلك الصغرية عىل ح ّد سواء‪ .‬تسلّط ‪Dominique‬‬ ‫‪ Fenn‬الضوء عىل رواجها الواسع ومكانتها يف ساحة األزياء الربلينيّة‬

‫ٍ‬ ‫خطوط عىل بدلة رياضيّة؛ إشارة “صح” عىل قميص قطني؛ إكليل‬ ‫ثالثة‬ ‫من الغار مط ّرز عىل صدر قميص بولو وشارة ُمعلّقة عىل ك ّم كنزة‬ ‫بز ّرين مل ّاعني؛ كلّها عالمات فارقة ألسامء تجاريّة شهرية ذي ٍ‬ ‫إرث ريايض‪،‬‬ ‫تجدها يف شوارعنا كجزء من اإلطاللة اليوميّة‪.‬‬ ‫ال ّ‬ ‫شك أنّك أدركت أّنّها شعارات ‪ Adidas‬و‪ Nike‬و‪Fred‬‬ ‫زي من ال‬ ‫‪ Perry‬و‪ .Stone Island‬هكذا عالمات تجاريّة هي ّ‬ ‫زي له ورم ٌز لالنتامء غالباً ما يعتمد املراهقون هذه العالمات املوثوقة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫باحثني عن طريقة للتميّز واالندماج‪ .‬مث ّة تداخل بني البيئة االجتامعيّة‬ ‫كل جيل جديد التعبري عن أنفسهم‬ ‫والثقافة الشبابيّة‪ ،‬ويحاول أبناء ّ‬ ‫بطريقة مختلفة‪ .‬بالتايل‪ ،‬أن تجد املجموعة التي ستنتمي إليها من حيث‬ ‫األسلوب‪ ،‬هو أحد املراحل االنتقاليّة يف الحياة‪ ،‬كام جرى مع البانك‬ ‫واملود ريفايفل والكاجوالز يف السبعينات والثامنينات‪.‬‬ ‫إال أنّه م” ّخرا ً‪ ،‬مل تعد املوضة حكرا ً عىل الشباب‪ .‬تندمج املالبس‬ ‫الرياضيّة مبالبس الشارع أكرث فأكرث‪ ،‬فيام يبتعد املص ّممون والزبا“ن‬ ‫عىل ح ّد سواء عن التصنيف التقليدي لألزياء‪ .‬مل ن َر منذ عقود هكذا‬ ‫املختصة باملالبس الرياضيّة خارج املالعب وغرف تغيري‬ ‫بروز للعالمات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫املالبس‪.‬‬ ‫بحسب التقارير‪ ،‬باعت ‪ Adidas‬سنة ‪ 2015‬ما يزيد عن‬ ‫مثانية ماليني زوجاً من حذاء ‪ Stan Smiths‬حول العامل‪ .‬زد عىل‬ ‫أنّه بني سنة ‪ ،1973‬عندما أطلقت عمالقة املالبس الرياضيّة األملانيّة‬ ‫الحذاء األبيض الشهري وسنة ‪ ،2015‬باعت أكرث من أربعني مليون زوجاً‪،‬‬ ‫بحسب أرقامها الرسميّة‪ .‬يُعزى ذلك جز“يّاً إىل رواج األحذية الرياضيّة‬ ‫بأسلوب الريرتو مجدّدا ً وانتعال املشاهري أحذية متواضعة‪ ،‬عىل سبيل‬ ‫‪ Phoebe Philo‬املديرة االبتكاريّة لـ ‪ ،Céline‬ما ش ّجع النساء‬ ‫املجاريات للموضة عىل انتعال أحذية بدون كعب‪.‬‬ ‫من األمثلة األخرى يف هذا املجال كنزة ‪ Rottweiler‬املز ّودة‬ ‫بقبّعة من ‪ Givenchy‬والتي باتت قطعة مطلوبة للغاية‪ ،‬فقدّمت‬ ‫إطاللة مريحة وألغت التباين بني املالبس النسا“يّة والرجاليّة‪ .‬وبالطبع‪،‬‬ ‫ملع بعد ذلك سنة ‪ 2014‬إسم املص ّمم ‪ Demna Gvasalia‬لدى‬ ‫‪ ،Vetements‬فباتت الكنزات الواسعة والسرتات املنفوخة مرغوبة‬ ‫كالذهب‪ .‬واليوم يف العام ‪ ،2017‬نرى الجميع من مراهقني إىل مح ّرري‬ ‫نصوص أزياء‪ ،‬بانتظار آخر ابتكارات ‪ ،Supreme‬ويف املدن الكربى‬ ‫يقف بعض محبّي العالمة يف الطابور لساعات وأحياناً طوال اللّيل‬ ‫للحصول عىل أحدث قطعة‪ .‬الواقع أنّه نتيجة التعاون الذي ارتقبه‬ ‫الناس طويالً بني ‪ Louis Vuitton‬و‪ ،Supreme‬التي كانت‬ ‫عالمة صغرية غري معروفة‪ ،‬حصل هذا تزاوج بني األزياء الفاخرة واألزياء‬ ‫الرا“جة‪.‬‬ ‫املختصة‬ ‫لطاملا كانت الشكة األمريكيّة ‪The North Face‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫مبالبس الرياضات الخارجيّة من العالمات املفضّ لة لدى مامريس رياضة‬ ‫السري يف الطبيعة وركوب الد ّراجات الهوا“يّة وغريها من النشاطات‬ ‫الخارجيّة‪ .‬لكن بعد تعاونها مع ‪ ،Supreme‬تضاعفت أرقامها بني‬

‫املختصة مبالبس الرياضات‬ ‫ليل ٍة وضحاها‪ .‬أ ّما عالمة ‪،Patagonia‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بحسها االجتامعي‪ ،‬فكانت من العالمات التي يقع خيار‬ ‫التقنيّة واملميّزة ّ‬ ‫املستكشفني املحرتفني عليها ليس أكرث‪ ،‬وباتت تجذب اليوم الكثري من‬ ‫سكّان املدن‪.‬‬ ‫وبخاصة يف برلني‪ ،‬هذه املدينة الحيويّة‬ ‫مل تنفجر الفقاعة بعد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التي تكرث فيها الثقافات الفرعيّة وتُعرف بطابعها املتح ّرر وحياتها‬ ‫اللّيليّة املختلفة‪ .‬لألسلوب الفردي فيها طابع خاص‪ .‬عىل الرغم من‬ ‫تح ّول مالبس الشارع إىل لغة عامليّة‪ ،‬يكمن أثرها الحقيقي يف طابعها‬ ‫وفلسفتها‪ .‬يتطلّب تصفّح سوق إعادة البيع عرب اإلنرتنت‪ ،‬قسطاً كبريا ً‬ ‫من االلتزام‪ .‬لكن لحسن الحظ‪ ،‬تض ّم برلني بعض أبرز املحالت املستقلّة‬ ‫محل ‪ No74‬وقلّة من الناس يعرفون ذلك‪.‬‬ ‫يف العامل‪ .‬متتلك ‪ّ Adidas‬‬ ‫يض ّم تشكيلة كبرية من تصاميم ‪ Adidas‬و‪ Y-3‬ومن املمكن أن تجد‬ ‫كل األحذية الناتجة عن تعاون ‪ Raf Simons‬و‪.Rick Owens‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كام تُنظّم فيه السهرات ويُح ّول إىل حانة إنجليزيّة لليل ٍة واحدة‪.‬‬ ‫محل ‪ Overkill‬جدارا ً كامالً لألحذية الرياضيّة وهو‬ ‫يخصص ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫من األماكن التي ال ب ّد من زيارتها يف برلني إن كنت تبحث عن هذا‬ ‫النوع من األحذية‪ .‬يحظى مديره التنفيذي ‪Thomas Peiser‬‬ ‫بشهرة كبرية يف املدينة‪ ،‬نظرا ً لوفرة املوجودات‪ .‬تشكيلة التصاميم ملفتة‬ ‫لألنظار وتشمل موديالت كالسيكيّة وجديدة من عالمات ذا“عة الصيت‬ ‫عىل سبيل ‪ Nike‬و‪ Adidas‬و‪ Puma‬جنباً إىل جنب عالمات‬ ‫املحل‬ ‫اشتهرت م”خرا ً مثل ‪ Asics‬و‪ .Onitsuka Tiger‬يرتبط ّ‬ ‫ارتباطاً وثيقاً بف ّن األرصفة ويظهر ذلك من خالل ما يحوي من معدّات‬ ‫لرسم الغرافيتي ومجموعة مالبس رياضيّة رجاليّة ونسا“يّة‪.‬‬ ‫ّرمبا خري دليل عىل اندماج املالبس الرياضيّة يف عامل األزياء‬ ‫هو تسلّلها إىل قامئة العالمات التجاريّة يف بعض أفخر متاجر األزياء‬ ‫األحب عىل‬ ‫العرصيّة يف برلني‪ .‬لدى عمالق املالبس الرجاليّة ‪ّ ،Soto‬‬ ‫قلوب ر ّواد املوضة املحليّني بفضل مفهومه الحديث والجديد حول‬ ‫منصات األزياء مبا فيها ‪Dries Van‬‬ ‫مالبس الرجال‪ ،‬تجد عالمات ّ‬ ‫‪ Noten‬و‪ Acne Studios‬و‪ Raf Simons‬جنباً إىل جنب‬ ‫‪ Puma‬و‪ Adidas‬وأمثالهام‪ .‬وتجد كذلك عالمتي ‪Filling‬‬ ‫املختصتني باألحذية الرياضيّة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ Pieces‬و‪ Eytys‬اليافعتني املرغوبتني‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بالتايل‪ ،‬يبدو أن موضة ارتداء املالبس الرياضيّة كل يوم ُوجدت لتبقى‪.‬‬ ‫‪Cool Concepts :36‬‬

‫مفاهيم ُمبتكرة‬

‫تقدّم أفضل املحالت يف برلني عروضاً ُمغرية وأكرث‪ .‬يستكشف‬ ‫‪ William Lee Adams‬املتاجر املبتكرة التي ترتقي بتجربة‬ ‫التس ّوق يف املدينة إىل مستوى جديد بالكامل‬

SCENT OF THE SEASON Frau Tonis Parfum, founded by Stefanie Hanssen and Christoph Niedermeier in Berlin’s Kreuzberg creative hub in 2009, offers unique, exotic, vegan-friendly

fragrances. The 19 Oud Weiss perfume is perfect for autumn and winter, with woody notes of bergamot, sandalwood and cedar accented with amber and tobacco. As well as discovering the new fragrance, you can also blend a bespoke scent of your own with the help of the knowledgeable experts

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at a Frau Tonis fragrance workshop – a perfect gift or souvenir. xd Frau Tonis Parfum Oud Weiss fragrance, 50ml, €85, Frau Tonis Parfum, Zimmerstrasse 13, 10969 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2021 5310, frau-tonis-parfum.com

PHOTO: NADINE ZILLIGES

SOUVEN I R

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Porsche Design Timepieces

MONOBLOC ACTUATOR GMT-CHRONOTIMER | Black & Rubber Designed by Studio F. A. Porsche. Swiss Made.

T H E N E W M O N O B LO C AC T UAT O R INSPIRED BY OUR PASSION FOR MOTORSPORT

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