GERMANY | 德国 | ГЕРМАНИЯ |
أملانيا
GERMANY Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2018
EXPLORE GERMANY: our insiders’ guide reveals the country’s best luxury shopping and must-see highlights
If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind.
For more than 140 years, the name “WEMPE” has stood for the utmost expertise in the art of making jewellery and timepieces at 33 Wempe showrooms world-wide. Our pieces of jewellery uphold international standards and are born in our own atelier. And a century-old friendship links us with the world’s foremost watch manufactories. You will find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest locations in great European metropolises and in New York City. We look forward to your visit!
At the best Addresses in Germany and in London, Paris, Madrid, Vienna and New York. www.wempe.com
THE
we mpe cu t ® Adds 80 more facets to perfection.
Discover the superlative of a solitaire: the certified WEMPE-Cut® diamond has 137 hand-cut facets – 80 more than the classic brilliant-cut diamond – and therefore an extremely high degree of light reflection aand extraordinary brilliance. At the best Addresses in Germany and in London, Paris, Madrid, Vienna and New York. www.wempe.com
ME JERSEY O H N E H C N Ü M N R E Y A B FC
THE OFFICIAL FC BAYERN FAN SHOPS Authentic. Bavarian. Soccer. Culture. Find your perfect souvenir among 700 articles in one of our official fan shops.
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FIND US IN BERLIN AS WELL
MUNICH CITY CENTRE
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A8
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AT THE AIRPORT Munich Airport Center, Central Area, Level 3 S1, S8 Airport
MEGASTORE IN THE ALLIANZ ARENA Werner-Heisenberg-Allee 25 U6 Fröttmaning NEXT TO THE FCB ERLEBNISWELT, CLUB MUSEUM
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PEDESTRIAN ZONE, CITY Neuhauser Straße 2 U4, U5 Karlsplatz (Stachus), U3, U6 Marienplatz Karlsplatz (Stachus), Marienplatz
NEARBY THE HOFBRÄUHAUS, MÜNCHEN Orlandostraße 1 80331 München U3, U6 Marienplatz Marienplatz
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AT THE TRAINING GROUND Säbener Straße 51–57 U1 Wettersteinplatz
IN THE LP12 MALL OF BERLIN Leipziger Platz 12 10117 Berlin U2 Mohrenstraße
VISIT US ON
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EDITOR’S LETTER
Austria Barcelona Belgium Copenhagen
捷克 Germany
أملانيا 德国 Германия Gothenburg Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Lebanon London Madrid Milan Oslo
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this eclectic and sophisticated European country. In this issue, we report on this season’s fashion trend for minimalism, led by some of Germany’s top brands (page 26). We also introduce some of the most exciting new store openings and product offerings across the country. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to the most prestigious destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find across Germany. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the new SHOP TAX FREE app, which is available now – find all the details in our guide section in this issue. Calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.
Paris Portugal Prague Rome Singapore Stockholm Switzerland Чехия /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue
EMMA CHEEVERS
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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN
Welcome to Germany
WMF premium quality for perfect results Germany´s No. 1 Brand in Homewares*
Find your closest WMF store here globalblue.com/brands/wmf *Value sales in Germany at rsp, 2016 data, all retail channels, Euromonitor International Limited, Home and Garden 2017ed.
CONTRIBUTORS DAVID DORAN
BETH DRUCE Fashion and luxury writer Beth Druce also works as a consultant for a variety of fashion companies. After gaining an MA from Central Saint Martins in London, she began her career at GQ magazine. globalblue.com
LUCINDA TURNER Lucinda Turner, SHOP’s acting fashion editor, studied linguistics at Queen Mary University of London. Since graduating she has worked in the fashion departments of titles including Tatler, Condé Nast Brides and Marie Claire.
GINGER ROSE CLARK SHOP’s news editor Ginger Rose Clark holds an MA in fashion journalism from the London College of Fashion. Before joining SHOP, Ginger worked as a fashion stylist and also wrote for a number of publications.
ILLUSTRATION: DAVID DORAN
David Doran created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Germany. It shows some of the country’s best-known landmarks, including Berlin’s Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate), the Düsseldorf Rheinturm telecommunications tower and the Römer building in Frankfurt, all cleverly rendered as postcards. David Doran’s other clients include Apple, Vogue and the New Yorker magazine. Discover SHOP Germany and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.
MAXMARA.COM MUNICH- THEATINERSTRASSE 11, FRANKFURT - AN DER HAUPTWACHE 5 DÜSSELDORF - KÖNIGSALLEE 4 (FRANCHISEE MAX MARA)
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SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L
PUBLISHING
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Acting deputy editor Ruairidh Pritchard Cover illustrator David Doran Contributor Beth Druce Production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion and lifestyle writer Rebecca Rhys-Evans News editor Ginger Rose Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Katie Byrne, Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Hayley Moseley Artworker Onur Unaltay Artworking assistant Tatjiana Antoniou Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Acting online managing editor Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese production editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editors Yangzi Liang, Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Senior Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy AVP business development manager Patrice Janet
G LO B A L B L U E G E R M A N Y Head of commercial Europe/ Latin America Pier Francesco Nervini Head of commercial Central Europe Jürgen Strobl Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialist Julia Monod Marketing executive Rebecca Mischke Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Düsseldorf Marketing & Tourismus GmbH, Benrather Strasse 9, 40213 Düsseldorf, +49 (0)211 172020, duesseldorf-tourismus.de
Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistant Inga Abramian Marketing intern Joanna Dodge Digital production assistant Linda Hau Production assistant Chris Bigg Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing manager Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2018 Global Blue
THE NUMBER ONE DESTINATION FOR PREMIUM FASHION AT OUTLET PRICES.
A touch of NYC in Europe – that’s what awaits shoppers at the premium outlet Saks OFF 5TH. The modern stores offer the things every fashionista desires right in the city center: 750 fashion and designer brands – always up to 60% off the original price. That doesn’t just apply to women’s fashion, but also to men’s and kid’s clothing, sportswear and accessories as well as home products. The small Big Apple – always worth a visit!
OUR STORES: Düsseldorf – Heinrich-Heine-Platz 1, 40213 Düsseldorf Frankfurt – An der Hauptwache 1, 60313 Frankfurt am Main Heidelberg – Hauptstraße 9–13, 69117 Heidelberg Wiesbaden – Langgasse 5–9, 65183 Wiesbaden Stuttgart – Königsstraße 23–25, 70173 Stuttgart Bonn – Remigiusstraße 6–8, 53111 Bonn Rotterdam – Hoogstraat 185, 3011 PM Rotterdam Amsterdam – Kalverpassage, Kalverstraat 212–220, 1012 PD Amsterdam
saks-off-5th.co.uk
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CONTENTS
PRODUCTS 14
15
Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Berlin this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
NEWS
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Shop Window One store not to be missed in Düsseldorf News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
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FEATURE 26
Back To Basics Minimalism is back in fashion this season as new appointments at key fashion houses offer a contemporary update of this 1990s trend. Beth Druce reports
GERMANY GUIDE 33
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Maps and guides to top shops and destinations in Berlin, Munich, Frankfurt, Hamburg, Düsseldorf and Dresden
ESSENTIALS 52
How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
TRANSLATIONS 54 55 57
26
中文翻 译 Русский Перевод
ترجمة باللّغة العربيّة POSTCARD 58
SHOP writes home about Steinway & Sons
Above (clockwise from bottom left): Wempe Chronometerwerke Automatic watch; Apropos store, Düsseldorf; Calvin Klein spring/summer 2018
PHOTOS: (TOP) ANDREA DINGELDEIN KLN; (BOTTOM RIGHT) © GORUNWAY.COM
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SHOPPING IS BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE Shop Tax Free and save up to 14.5% Find out more at globalblue.com
CHECK OUT
QUALITY TIME German watch specialist and jeweller Wempe has been creating quality timepieces for more than a century, and has worked closely for generations with the world’s best watch manufacturers in Germany and Switzerland. The Chronometerwerke Automatic (pictured) contains Wempe’s first self-winding caliber, the CW 4, which took four years to develop. It provides absolute precision and accuracy, meeting the expert standards of Glashütte watchmaking, which include a stringent 15-day test for each watch movement. As well as offering timekeeping excellence, the chronometer is the definition of classic style Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 52
and luxury, fitted with a cognac-coloured crocodile leather strap, an 18-carat yellow gold bezel, gold-plated hour markers and a sapphire crystal face. Although classic in appearance, the watch has modern functionality such as water resistance to 3 bar and a 92-hour power reserve, making it eminently suitable for the modern man with a busy schedule. rre Wempe Chronometerwerke Automatic watch, €14,950, Wempe, Friedrichstrasse 82, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2039 9920, wempe.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 38
S H O P | 16
CASUAL
COOL
A lightweight bomber jacket will see you from spring to summer; keep your look tonal and add a statement rucksack for a modern vibe
Closed jacket, €249, Closed, Brienner Strasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2156 8507, closed.com Bose headphones, €379.95, Bose, Theatinerstrasse 27, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2421 6970, bose.com
Etro rucksack, €900, Etro, Maximilianstrasse 11-15, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2322 5656, etro.com
Cos sneakers, €55, Cos, Weinstrasse 3, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2102 1774, cosstores.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 52
Acne Studios trousers, €220, Acne Studios, Maximiliansplatz 10, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2324 9990, acnestudios.com
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THINK PINK Mix and match pastels for a stylish, modern look
H&M sunglasses, €7.99, H&M, Zeil 58-64, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 800 665 5900, hm.com
Apple Watch Series 3, from €369, Apple, Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse 30, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2193 08000, apple.com
Marc Cain sandals, €329, Marc Cain, Kaiserhofstrasse 5, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2972 9339, marc-cain.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 52
Dorothee Schumacher dress, €460, Dorothee Schumacher, Neue Rothofstrasse 17-19, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)621 1272 5200, dorothee-schumacher.com
PHOTOS: (BAG) BULGARI/MAURO FABBIO; (SUNGLASSES) H&M
Bulgari bag, €2,450, Bulgari, Goethestrasse 14, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 913 0530, bulgari.com
S H O P | 17
WARM TONES Combine soft shades of red and cream for a springtime look that’s perfect for the city
PHOTOS: (SHOES) KAREN BENGALL PHOTOGRAPHY; (TROUSERS) STARP ESTUDI
Atelier Swarovski ring, €179, Swarovski, Königsallee 82-84, 40212 Düsseldorf, +49 (0)211 210 7820, atelierswarovski.com
Miu Miu bag, €950, Miu Miu, Königsallee 18, 40212 Düsseldorf, +49 (0)211 210 7740, miumiu.com
Sportmax jumper, €255, Max Mara, Königsallee 4, 40212 Düsseldorf, +49 (0)211 860 6980, sportmax.com
Jimmy Choo shoes, €625, Jimmy Choo, Kö-Center, Königsallee 28-30, 40212 Düsseldorf, +49 (0)211 9118 2901, jimmychoo.com
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Mango trousers, €49.99, Mango, Flinger Strasse 27, 40213 Düsseldorf, +49 (0)211 836 9860, mango.com
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Chloé earrings, €650, Chloé at KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2121 2146, chloe.com
Max Mara sunglasses, €213, Max Mara, Friedrichstrasse 184, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2007 4945, maxmara.com
WILD AT
HEART
Animal print is on trend for spring/summer 2018 – add flamboyant accessories to make a statement
Scotch & Soda hat, €59.95, Scotch & Soda, Münzstrasse 14-16, 10178 Berlin, +49 (0)30 5679 6615, scotch-soda.com
Tod’s sandals, €720, Tod’s at KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2191 6444, tods.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 52
Zara dress, €59.95, Zara, Friedrichstrasse 88, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2007 3982, zara.com
S H O P | 19
STAY NEUTRAL Say goodbye to your winter blues with a natural palette of beige, cream and tan
Moncler sunglasses, €200, Moncler, Neuer Wall 43, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3609 8510, moncler.com
PHOTO: (SNEAKERS) © BALLY
J Lindeberg top, €60, Anson’s, Mönckebergstrasse 8, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 328 1701, jlindeberg.com
Massimo Dutti shorts, €49.99, Massimo Dutti, Neuer Wall 38, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3003 2533, massimodutti.com
globalblue.com
MCM bag, €950, MCM, Alsterhaus, Jungfernstieg 16-20, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3590 1463, mcmworldwide.com
Bally sneakers, €375, Bally, Neuer Wall 53-55, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3609 1039, bally.com
CONTEMPORARY CONCEPT Following a month-long renovation, the Apropos concept store in Düsseldorf reopened in late 2017, revealing an exquisitely decorated interior. This renowned brand offers a perfectly curated selection of pieces, with luxury labels including Jil Sander, Balenciaga, Ami, Off-White and Francesco Russo. Apropos has six stores in Germany and the Düsseldorf branch delivers one of the best edits of contemporary luxury designers in Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 52
the city. The décor is reason enough to visit, with marble flooring, gold panelling and raw and reclaimed industrial materials designed to complement each other. As well as fashion and accessories, visitors can also discover exclusive cosmetics and beauty products by brands such as Christian Louboutin, Comme des Garçons, Diptyque and Rodial, as well as culinary offerings from names including Kusmi Tea. rre Apropos, Benrather Strasse 15, 40213 Düsseldorf, +49 (0)211 8639 3830, apropos-store.com
PHOTO: ANDREA DINGELDEIN KLN
SHOP WINDOW
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FINE CHINA Founded in 2005, family-run Sieger is a brand renowned for creating stunning objects for the home, including sophisticated contemporary porcelain in partnership with Fürstenberg. One of its latest collections is the My China! Greta collection, which takes its name from designer Michael Sieger’s daughter. The dinner service comprises 35 pieces for the table, all handmade at the Fürstenberg studios. Plates, bowls, cups
and tea accessories in ultra-thin porcelain are subtly decorated with delicate geometric shapes so finely rendered that they are barely visible from a distance, while slender platinum rims add the finishing touch. Give your table an elegant new look with this minimalist collection from Sieger by Fürstenberg. grc KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin, +49 (0)30 21210, sieger-germany.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 37
Luxury crystal brand Lalique celebrates its 130th anniversary in 2018. To mark the occasion, the house has created a collection that looks back to one of founder René Lalique’s sources of inspiration: the swallow. The exquisite pieces in the Hirondelles range include wall sculptures, a decanter, a clock and a scented candle. The masterpiece is this limited-edition large vase in clear crystal with gold-stamped swallow motifs (€12,500); a delightful celebration of the crystal brand’s rich history as well as an elegant ornament for the home. grc Lalique, Goethestrasse 37, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2199 7770, lalique.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 44
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PHOTO: ARTON SEFA/ARTONSEFA.COM; T|TIFFANY & CO. STUDIO;
PHOTOS: (TOP) SIEGER; (BOTTOM) KARINE FABY
FLIGHT OF FANCY
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TRUE COLOURS 2018 marks 40 years since Escada was founded. For spring/summer 2018 the brand presents a collection that stays true to its original vision of creating chic luxury womenswear. This season’s looks are defined by monochrome and, in contrast, a strong palette of bright block colours, from royal blue to pink and deep red. Stripes bring a summery feel to belted dresses and blazers, and pussy bows add an ornate edge to shirts. Embellishments give a striking finishing touch to dresses and jackets while shimmering gowns complete the collection and are an ideal choice for an eye-catching evening look. As ever, Escada proves it knows exactly how to create elegant womenswear for all occasions. rre Escada, Kö-Center, 28-30 Königsallee, 40212 Düsseldorf, +49 (0)211 8693 5975, escada.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 48
Watchmaker IWC celebrates its 150th anniversary this year, and has marked the event with the launch of its Jubilee collection. Consisting of 27 limitededition models, the new line revisits some of the brand’s iconic timepieces – the Portugieser (pictured), Portofino, Pilot’s and Da Vinci – as well as paying homage to the Pallweber pocket watch. The 27 styles share several features: a white and blue dial, a black alligator leather strap and a medallion or engraving featuring the ‘150 Years’ emblem. Each timepiece from this standout collection is testimony to IWC’s talent for precision, innovation and timeless design. grc IWC Schaffhausen, Goethestrasse 18, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 1388 2888, iwc.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 44
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 52
PHOTO: (TOP) ARTON SEFA/ARTONSEFA.COM
SPECIAL MOMENTS
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TIME TRAVEL Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer 2018 collection sets out to merge the past with the present. Artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière refers to 18th-century dress in frock coats, mantua-shaped dresses with full skirts, brocades and embroidery. He artfully anchors these historic references within contemporary style: metallic fabrics provide a futuristic twist, while sneakers nod to the current influence of sportswear. As ever, bags are a central component to Louis Vuitton’s seasonal collection, with a wide selection ranging from the signature Petite Malle to totes and bucket bags: opt for the brand’s classic monogram canvas or a brocadeinspired finish. grc Louis Vuitton, Kurfürstendamm 185, 10707 Berlin, +49 (0)30 2520 13610, louisvuitton.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 36
FASHION FIX
PHOTO: (TOP) LUDWIG BONNET
Opened in 2015 by sisters Michaela Hrgovic and Marijana Biscanic, the Noée boutique is conveniently located in the heart of Frankfurt. The multilabel store stocks a covetable edit of womenswear chosen by the sisters to appeal to fashion-forward women. Here you can find pieces for all occasions by internationally renowned names such as the German brand Marc Aurel, Liu Jo from Italy or Danish label Gustav. This offering is complemented by a fine assortment of shoes and accessories – think hats by American brand Stetson or jewellery by Qudo, made in Germany. At Noée you can also count on top-quality service, including alterations for the perfect fit and late-night shopping events. Add Noée to your list of must-visit Frankfurt stores. grc Noée, Schillerstrasse 30-40, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2199 9120, noee-fashion.de globalblue.com
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A CHIC ARRIVAL Céline’s new Munich boutique, which opened in September 2017, occupies a historic building on the city’s famous Maximilianstrasse. The ground floor is dedicated to leather goods and accessories, while the first floor features ready-to-wear and shoes, as well as a stylish lounge and VIP area. Danish artist Fos has designed bespoke objects for the store to complement Céline’s refined aesthetic, including beautiful displays for sunglasses and a rack for bags, as well as chic furniture. Eye-catching display podiums made of onyx, fired terracotta, handcarved lime wood and industrial chipboard display some of the French fashion house’s most covetable designs. shc Céline, Maximilianstrasse 22, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2323 7890, celine.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 40
EAT, SHOP, LEARN Get a taste of Italy in Munich’s Eataly store. Under the brand’s philosophy of ‘eat better, live better’, visitors can not only shop but also find out how to cook with Italy’s finest ingredients. Guests can choose from a range of famous and lesser-known classic Italian dishes in the restaurant, educate themselves about Mediterranean food culture at the workshops and choose from a curated selection of regional pasta, wines, cheeses and cured meat in the shop. The Munich store is Eataly’s only branch in Germany, making it a must-visit for food lovers who are visiting the country. rre Eataly, Viktualienmarkt 15, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2488 17711, eataly.net Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 52
S H O P | 25
BEAUTY CALLS The ground floor of the renowned Ludwig Beck department store in Munich is dedicated to beauty. In a recent makeover, Düsseldorf architect Schwitzke & Partner opted for a contemporary look and the 1,700-squaremetre space has undergone various changes, such as updated counter designs. It is now home to even more brands, including prestigious names such as Hermès and Tom
Ford. Ludwig Beck was founded in 1861, and now spans fashion, beauty, stationery, food and more across seven floors. With so many exciting product categories to browse, it’s more than fitting that Ludwig Beck’s tagline is Kaufhaus der Sinne, which translates as ‘store of the senses’. grc Ludwig Beck, Marienplatz 11, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 236910, ludwigbeck.de FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 41
PHOTO: (TOP) NICO N RACZEK/NARINU
PICTURE PERFECT German camera company Leica recently introduced the new Leica CL (€2,490, body only). Compatible with the brand’s TL lenses, the Leica CL is simple to use and a great model for taking perfect shots while you are on the go. A high-resolution 24-megapixel sensor, fast autofocus and state-of-the-art video function are among the camera’s key features. For ultimate ease, the electronic viewfinder is equipped with EyeRes technology, while a display on the top plate provides an immediate overview of settings. Additionally, the Leica CL can be linked to your smartphone or tablet, allowing you to take photos remotely as well as share files easily. Capturing the highlights of your travels will never be easier than with the new Leica CL. grc globalblue.com
Leica, Brienner Strasse 7, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2601 0000, leica-camera.com
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Back to Basics Minimalism is back in fashion this season as new appointments at key fashion houses offer a contemporary update of this 1990s trend. Beth Druce reports
W PHOTO: Š GORUNWAY.COM
e’ve witnessed such extravagant designs on the catwalk in recent seasons that minimalism often feels like a taboo term. A number of leading fashion houses, however, are revisiting the simple sophistication that defined their style during the 1990s, with cutting-edge new creative directors at their helms. Jil Sander is a German fashion designer whose eponymous label became a byword for minimalist design during the 90s. Her aesthetic is built around the quiet confidence of clothes defined by clean lines, clever shapes and the versatility of loose tailoring. It was heartening
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to see that the debut collection by Lucie and Luke Meier, the husband-and-wife design duo appointed as the label’s creative directors in 2017, was firmly in the spirit of Sander’s signature style. Everything from the set – a futuristic white and silver spectacle designed by another architect of modernity, Zaha Hadid – down to the models’ minimal make-up felt like a logical consequence of the key features Sander had put in place. ‘You have these masculine, constructed, very sharp things, but what a lot of people don’t think about when they think about the brand is that there’s a really warm, kind of soulful sensuality,’ Luke Meier explained to American Vogue after the show. This ‘soulful sensuality’ was portrayed in bias-cut semi-sheer dresses spliced with layers of lilac or a pale sherbet yellow. There was also an ecclesiastical edge to the range, with crisp white shirt-dresses, collarless shirts and androgynous black trousers paired with comfortable, functional overshirts. Towards the end of the collection the designs shifted gear, with crocheted dresses and jumpers in a patchwork of earthy colours. It seemed to reflect the cerebral side of the Meiers’ creativity, and their desire to engage in a conversation about what constitutes minimalism today. Hugo Boss, founded in Metzingen in 1924, presented a utility feel for its latest Boss line menswear collection, with chief brand officer Ingo Wilts offering chic steel-grey trenches and drawstring hooded waterproofs in technical fabrics. Much of the outerwear was roomy and unstructured – reminiscent of the pared-down luxury of the 90s, when the brand’s fresh and preppy aesthetic epitomised the mood of the era. A selection of all-white looks bore little in the way of embellishment, letting the loose, relaxed tailoring do the talking instead. Double-breasted black suits were worn slouchy and unbuttoned, and featured subtle go-faster stripes down the leg. Go-faster stripes are so commonplace now that it is easy to forget their 90s incarnation, when minimalist design was frequently injected with a sporty element. At Calvin Klein, in Raf Simons’s second collection as creative director for the brand,
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Previous page and above: Jil Sander spring/summer 2018
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
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A new generation of designers is offering clothes that not only embody each brand’s origins, but also convey a contemporary, powerful and relevant aesthetic
Above (both): Boss spring/summer 2018
androgynous tailoring was a key theme for both men and women. Simons is well-versed in minimalist tailoring, having previously worked at Jil Sander for seven years. For spring/summer 2018 a uniform of pleat-front silk trousers in shades of brown, black, green and yellow were paired with western-style silk cowboy shirts that featured contrasting coloured pockets and closed collars. By modelling an identical silhouette for both men and women, Simons sought to emphasise the impact of gender-neutral shapes, a theme Calvin Klein himself has revisited throughout his career. ‘I was influenced by my mother and the way she dressed. She wore very tailored clothes, things that were masculine – things that could be worn by a man,’ Klein explained in a recent interview with British GQ. ‘I wasn’t trying to make a statement, but I was using men’s clothing as my influence for women.’ Above (both): Calvin Klein spring/summer 2018
Simons applied the same technique to a trio of looks that featured knitted tank tops styled with straight black trousers. Other pieces included coloured suits in muted tones of blue, orange and purple, cut with a rounded, almost padded shoulder – a style seen on a number of catwalks this season. Overall the mood was modern, but there was something about the tone and feel of these looks that prompted memories of the colourful, streamlined shapes championed by Klein more than two decades earlier. What Simons, the Meier duo and Wilts have shown is that they belong to a new generation of designers. Rather than merely revisiting old trends, these are creatives who draw from the archives of their respective labels. They offer clothes that embody each brand’s origins – while also conveying a contemporary, powerful and relevant aesthetic
PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM
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PHOTOS: Š GORUNWAY.COM
Leading fashion houses are revisiting the simple sophistication, clean lines, versatility and quiet confidence that defined their signature styles during the 1990s
Above (both): Calvin Klein spring/summer 2018
EN GL I S H | Р УС СК И Й | 中 文
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GERMANY GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Germany with a look at some of the country’s must-visit destinations, from a Berlin bunker filled with contemporary art to Munich’s favourite homeware store. A stroll around Düsseldorf (pictured) reveals the city’s combination of modern architecture and tranquil riverside havens. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/germany.
34 | G E R M A N Y G U I D E
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Place Of Interest
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Berlin Hilton
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Hotel Berlin MOHRENSTRASSE Marriot STADTMITTE Hotel Ritz Carlton Hyatt Hotel SS STRA E LEIPZIGER
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KLOSTERSTRASSE
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Hotel Adlon Westin Grand . Hotel RENSTR BEH -STR. NDT E R -A NAH HAN
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Maritim Pro Arte Hotel
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FRIEDRICHSTRASSE
BRANDENBURGER TOR
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S H O P | 35
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Hotel Interconti
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Berlin Excelsior Hotel
S TE R PES U DA B BERLIN ZOO SE Hotel Dorint Heckers Hotel Hotel Hotel Ibis KU R F -Schweizer Hof KURFÜRSTENDAMM Palace Ü Berlin Messe R ST SAVIGNYPLATZ E N S Clarion Hotel Berlin Hotel Concorde TR. Kempinski Bristol Hotel Crowne Plaza Hotel Ambassador Berlin Steigenberger M Walter-Benjamin-Platz WITTENBERGPLATZ Hotel Berlin N DA M R STE Ü F Berlin Mark Hotel Elington KUR KLE Hotel Hotel Bogota Berlin Plaza IST STR L I E T Z EN B U AUGSBURGER STRASSE Hotel A SS R G O L I VA E P L AT Z E ER R S T R A SSE NOLLENDORFPLATZ
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Viktoria-Luise-Platz
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Prager Platz
GÜNTZELSTRASSE
H OH EN S TA U F E N
STR A
SS E
E
TR A SSE
T EG
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Golfino Outlet VERONICA POHLE ● NANOS ● MARC CAIN ● SHOWROOM BERLIN ●
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On first impressions, the bunker housing the Boros art collection doesn’t look very inviting – but prepare for a surprise when you step inside. It was built in 1942, later becoming a warehouse and techno nightclub, before being bought by advertising entrepreneur and art collector Christian Boros in 2003. Today the 3,000-square-metre space is home to Boros’s extensive contemporary art collection, filled with pieces dating from 1990 onwards, with Boros’s own private residence occupying the top floor. The art collection, often referred to as the best private collection of contemporary pieces in Germany, is available to view via guided tours, making it a must-visit for art lovers visiting the city. Sammlung Boros (Boros Collection), Sammlung Boros Bunker, Reinhardstrasse 20, 10117 Berlin, sammlung-boros.de
S T R A SS
B OT
ST
U H LA N D
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PHOTO: © NOSHE/ANDREAS GEHRKE
EC
AS SE BR
Café
U-Bahn
M
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Outlet Village
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Global Blue Retailer
M
DAM
PL. OLIV AER
SCH LÜ T ERS
KNE SEB ECK
RUNG NAPA ●
L EIB NIZ ST R
TR A SSE
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BL EI BT R EU
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JA NG ● ● S ILLI AS Z W CKEL O I UGL ● O D DOP OMAN HEN SUN OCH & B ● ●D TIC DM Y& P O ●O EE ● LER EN R SE B VIL AS LD M KE ● E OX TR FA L N ● ● G GERFE NS E A MA OL ●L ● OPK D● GR A P T EIFF OR ULL S NN M VA ME LI ● ODU ● B RA HO MER ● A E ZIM ANEL ●Z F TO R T STE LOT ER S ON P ESIGN ● ●K D OT 200 YBO R ● M DA M M ●Q EA N AV O G N E ● P HEK RSTEN B T M A A P OU R F Ü GCH NE ● CO L O N O N TA I E ● ●K EF & EF HUH ● UND A N NT E R S C A N N ● J A R I N AA N N K S LM E● ● C LLM HAR HEL MA J ● APE S E I BUD ● H AU L & T U MR ● O E ●P LAN HER I MI BUC IRE A OGG ● B S C A D A& V O LT I● EIN IG ELF ●E L S D I ● P A R ED O ● Z H I L I P P U E PA ERI BA& SH ● Q P GAM FÜM Y ● ADE IPT RRA PA R AU B O R D ● ● D rosz RE FE I LF GN ● G AT O ELL I WO S ● E E CIN A LV RD ED ● S E R S A CL L O C U SCH EZ A 4 ● ● V RUNE ER P ORR EN É L IL L E 5 R ● ● B ONCL BR NE AIG ● M U CCI R I ● G U LG A E● RM ●B ELO SD IER NA YVE S● ART ● C ANEL ABBA NTU G H MIE ENT ● NA ● C LCE & R Z EG O L A U A L LY ● O ●D NT ILD B ● SAI M CM EN EG LIN ● BER D ● ERM A P.23 ● N E R PA R RAD CO R CH O A N I ● ●P TO N THE RM UIT OA SV RGI OUI DER GIO ● L IL SAN ● ● J O L E X R RY LOT ● R L B E R RY ● HUB U R DIO ● ● M URBE LE RIL ●B INO IE B ENT ● ●D VA L R M È S H E E TA ● EN AV
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MOM MSE N STR ASSE
ST R A SS E M O M MS EN
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36 | G E R M A N Y G U I D E
Kurfürstendamm, Joachimstaler Strasse and Tauentzienstrasse
S H O P | 37
FA S A N E N S T R A
SSE
SC
HA
PE
RS
TR A
SSE
LL & BE A H& R ● RO DE MO M ● S D I A MA BE GU RB AL ● RS UR GE ES HK A ● RS PR ● TR A I ● DI . DA T ● FO SE D S● SS NN OU IL HE GL ● AS NI I S KE ● FO RES M A N SER ● A DI OT ER G ● DA LO VE O ● ● SO CK D ● EU BE RI R ● N EC ER GI S A O PA NA N Ü E T T O C O ●● TU LS CE N R R Cl NT ● N op P SNI NBE ER pe ee PE R nb k & S ● GE ● UN R S IQ ur g T R LO ● L L E EGO ● ZAR . IS ● DEIC A ER ● ● ● K I KO H M AN ● SHO N ● DM E C IT PL Y AN ET SP OR TS
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PHOTO: GÜNTER BRINKMANN
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SELECTED STORES IN BIKINI BERLIN: Alessi Andreas Murkudis Carhartt S CH A P ER STR Closed AS SE Cyberport Ganni Gant Kusmi Tea
RS
TR
.
Mabba Mammut Mykita Odeeh P.A.R.O.S.H Premiata Super Tailor & Tales The North Face Vans Vitra Artek
Department Store
Place Of Interest
Montblanc Nespresso Omega Niki Prada Rolex Rosenthal Salvatore Ferragamo Sieger P.21 Steiff Sony Tiffany & Co Tod’s Vertu Wellendorff WMF
.
SELECTED STORES IN KADEWE: Burberry Bulgari Calvin Klein Céline Chopard Christ Diesel Dior Fendi Hermès Hugo Boss Lacoste Louis Vuitton Miu Miu
STR
NE
HER
BE
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Pocket watches evoke a tremendously appealing sense of the past, and none more so than Wempe’s Zeitmeister Lépine model. This exquisite gold-plated stainless steel watch has a hand-wound movement and is an officially certified chronometer, meeting exacting standards of timekeeping. Now run by the fourth generation of the founding family, Hamburg-based Wempe has a long and impressive watchmaking history and produces fine timepieces from its workshop in the town of Glashütte. Its watchmakers are experts in creating items that are as stylish as they are accomplished, combining classic designs and features with modern technology. Wempe, Kurfürstendamm 214-215, 10719 Berlin, +49 (0)30 8826878, wempe.com
Shopping Centre/Mall
NS
TR
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WEMPE
Global Blue Refund Office
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EN
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APOTHEKE IN DER METROPOLE ●
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EN R ST
AMM
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Karstadt Sport
TIG
KU
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ZOO PALAST Bikini Berlin
A SS E
ASS E
K ANTST R
38 | G E R M A N Y G U I D E
Unter Den Linden, Friedrichstrasse and Französische Strasse AGU
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● SHOE CITY ● TIMBERLAND DUSSMANN ● KULTURKAUFHAUS
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D O RO T H
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ST R AS SE
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LI N D EN
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R A SSE
STR A SSE
LEIPZIG ER ST
● MARC CAIN
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HAUSVOGTEIPLATZ ● AMPELMANN
MO HRE NST R
FASSBENDER ● & RAUSCH ● BANG & OLUFSEN
F RI ED R IC H
GRAVIS ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● GEOX ● WMF ● OUKAN ● AS SE R
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S T R A SSE
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Galeries Lafayette Gendarmen Markt Quartier 205, 206, 207
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LÄDERACH ● MARINA RINALDI ● THOMAS SABO ● MAX MARA ● MOHR EN
ISCH E ST R .
● MAX MARA
ESCADA ● BUCHERER ● S TA U B E N S T R A
MEISSEN GALERIE ● CHARLOTTENSTRASSE ● THE CORNER
F R A N ZÖ S
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G LIN K A ST
SELECTED STORES IN QUARTIER 205, 206, 207: Etro Gant Hellmann Wolford Marc Cain
T RA SS E
TR .
SSE
MS
ISCH E ST R
NESPRESSO ● SANDRO ● KARL LAGERFELD ● SWAROVSKI ● CADENZZA ●
A SSE
LLSTR A
HEL
EMPORIO ARMANI ●
FRANZÖSISCHE STR.
B EHR ENS T R
● WEMPE P.14 ● NAVYBOOT ● MONTBLANC ● H&M
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HUGO BOSS ● PANDORA ●
SE ENSTR A S
B EB EL PL
FR IE D RI C HS
IITALA ● KPM ● LACOSTE ●
APOTHEKE FRIEDRICHSTADT ●
F R A N ZÖ S
● & OTHER STORIES Bebel Platz ● H&M ● GENTLEMEN’S CIRCLE ● COS ● MASSIMO DUTTI
AMPELMANN ● MEISSEN ● NAPAPIJIRI●
BRANDENBURGER TOR
DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM
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U N T ER D EN
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● ESPRIT ● MARC O’POLO ● ZARA ● DOUGLAS
BIRKENSTOCK ● AKTIV SCHUHE ● TAMARIS● ● NIVEA HAUS
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R EIC H S T
A SSE
Hilton Hotel
RA SS E K RO N EN ST
STADTMITTE
L EIPZIGER S
TR A SSE
● TANDEM&TRANSIT
ORA Housed in a former pharmacy, Ora is one of Berlin’s most charming brasseries. With high ceilings and soaring windows, the light-filled restaurant, café and bar is home to a wealth of beautiful antique furnishings, including the original pharmacy counter, which now displays a variety of delicious cakes and desserts. Serving delicious meals made from seasonal and locally sourced ingredients, as well as a mouthwatering list of sweet treats and cocktails, Ora is the perfect place to pause during a day exploring Berlin. Ora, Oranienplatz 14, 10999 Berlin, ora-berlin.de Global Blue Retailer U-Bahn
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Department Store
Shopping Centre/Mall
S H O P | 39
MUNICH
TR
TR RS
RE
. STR
WIG
RS
.
TÜ IEN
NE RS T KÖNIGSPLATZ R .
BAYERISCHES NATIONALMUSEUM
ODEONSPLATZ
Vier Jahreszeiten
MARIENPLATZ
Mandarin Oriental
ST
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HA
RD
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R.
ST
GOETHEPLATZ
R.
FRAUNHOFERSTRASSE
KA RS
TR AS
SE
Hotel
LE
Train Station
ÜL
R
Place Of Interest
E
LM
NE
SSE Hotel Prinzessin Elisabeth
SS
H
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RA
SE R A A S RST R ST HE E N B AC U A LS TE IT W
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München
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Hotel Admiral
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Torbräu
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Platzl Hotel Cortina Concorde ALTES RATHAUS Schlicker
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FRAUENKIRCHE
SENDLINGER TOR
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Bayerischer Hof
Europäischer Hof
Maritim S C H WA N T H A LER S T R .
TR .
RN
KARLSPLATZ
NN -S
C HA
Excelsior
Intercity Hotel
MA
R -TA
K. - S
Rema Hotel Esplanade EL ISE NS TR . HAUPTBAHNHOF Königshof
TZ LA HP AC B TZ N LE PLA NS A I IL X IM
-DE
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Eden Hotel Wolff
V ON
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King’s Hotel
Englischer Garten
LU D
GE
R.
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SB
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UNIVERSITÄT MaxVorstadt
EN
GA STIGLMAIERPLATZ
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THERESIENSTRASSE TH ER E SI EN STR .
.
Schwabing
Global Blue Refund Office
ST
R.
40 | G E R M A N Y G U I D E
Theatinerstrasse, Perusastrasse and Maximilianstrasse PHE
HOR AE S M A KT K IR C H S O P ● E- U B P ST ERGER U D IO P ● R O T . R AT H HMÜ KAR LLE L O CC R ● H IO ● SÖH NGE S● LE L U IC A ● CLO M A S ● SE M D● C IN C M ● Q GUT UE ● S OP T CH IK ●
NYM
● SCHWITTENBERG
● BOSE ● HALLHUBER ● FURLA ● THOMAS SABO ● E LEINFELDER ● BERNHARD GRASSL ● THOMAS ● STEFANEL ● VILEBREQUIN ● TRETTER CLASSIC ● MARRYING ● MICHAEL KORS ● NESPRESSO ● RÜSCHENBECK ● PAPILLON
RESIDENZ MÜNCHEN
NATIONALTHEATER MÜNCHEN
● ETIENNE AIGNER ECKERLE 中国的 Chinese● BETTEN RID HERRENMODEN ● PUMA ● ROSENTHAL ●
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● WALTRAUD BETHGE PAPIERE
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(I n s u r a n J a i d e H o t Vu e
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SA ST
русский язык Russian
CHA N W E M E L● HER PE ● MÈS ●
● ESPRIT ● ROECKL-ECK
P ERU
English
Alessi Boggi Butlers Diehl Exclusiv Fogal Glenfield Guess
IM IL
IA N S
TR A
●
TR A
AT I N
THE
MASSIMO DUTTI ● ZARA ● MANGO ●
● SWAROVSKI ● TAG HEUER ● DIE KLEINE THEATINER PARFÜMERIE ● DOUGLAS ● EYECATCHER
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●S .B ● S A U M E IS CHÖ NHE TER RR
STORY HEADING ● LACOSTE RUSSIAN D IE HL E XC L U S IV CHINESE ●
Hugendubel Ludwig Beck Marc O’Polo Max Mara Nile Clothing René Lezard S Baumeister Schlüter Schreibmayr St Emile Tessilform
SSE
IN E
CAMPER ●
SELECTED STORES IN FÜNF HÖFE:
CEL
Fünf Höfe
●
VA B R UN C L E E F NEL L O C& A R P E U C IN L S ● HUB ELLI ● LO B L A F E N DT ● I● H E MN C PA IN ALF ●E ONS MON MER ● ● V TRO -GO J IM M T B L A NL E ● PPE ● C HE R S A C Y CH C ● L-S T O ● D O PA R E RAS OME OO ● D L SE BEL ● BR CE & S TA G A ● G IO ABB ● PO NI FF ● A O NA ● ER L S A IN D IO R M ●M E T LA ● O N C N E G IL D URE K IT O LER O ZE NT ● N● GNA CAR T IE R Res ● ta
Schumann’s TagesBar
RG
SSE
OBERMAIER BÄDER ●
NBU
P.24
ACNE STUDIOS ●
E N Z ST R A S S E
ROSENTHAL
Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest
Non-Global Blue Retailer Café
PHOTO: © ROSENTHAL
Rosenthal – originally known for porcelain, but now offering furniture, textiles, ceramics, tableware and more – recently reopened its store on Munich’s Kardinal-Faulhaber-Strasse. The newly refurbished interior houses pieces for the whole home from a wide choice of brands such as Versace, Thomas, Arzberg and Sambonet as well as Rosenthal’s own range. The new space includes an elegant café, a selection of fine food and drinks such as truffles, preserves and spices, and a Style Guide area where customers can find advice on interior trends. Those who want to improve their cooking skills can choose from a selection of Rosenthal workshops. Rosenthal, Kardinal-Faulhaber-Strasse 5, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 222 617, rosenthal.com Shopping Centre/Mall
Restaurant
S H O P | 41
Marienplatz
Weinstrasse PA ● RFÜ B M ● RÜC ERI S E K ● POR NER R T ● O EC M Ü RA NZ KL TH ● ING ER J G B ER AU S ● H M AYN S T E - A P O ER ER INL TH AD EKE DIE REN EN A L u N ER S USST ● A FR d w i g B T R A T TER EU ● D S e AG EN SE EN HA ck TP US P.2 BU RO OP 5 RG VO TIK C AT TR EU AS R
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Dienerstrasse and Landschaftstrasse
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ST MANG-APOTHEKE The St Mang-Apotheke in Füssen has been a much-loved purveyor of health products and dietary supplements since it was opened in 1951 by Willi Immler. Since then it has been joined by branches in Trachgau, Seeg and Schwangau run by the founding family, all within an easy drive of Munich. You’ll be
Department Store
U-Bahn
amply rewarded for visiting one of these outposts thanks to the array of dietary supplements, medicinal herbs, teas, face and bodycare items and homeopathic remedies on offer. St Mang-Apotheke, Reichenstrasse 38, 87629 Füssen, +49 (0)8362 91410, mang-apotheke.de
42 | G E R M A N Y G U I D E
FRANKFURT MUSTERSCHULE GRÜNEBURGWEG
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SÜDBAHNHOF
SÜDBAHNHOF
Place Of Interest
U-Bahn
Train Station
Hotel
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SI
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P.21
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STR
GHO
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Rathenauplatz
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Founded by one of Frankfurt’s most fervent fashion fans, acclaimed trend forecaster Kerstin Görling, Hayashi has become of the city’s most popular and adventurous multibrand boutiques. With every item carefully selected by Görling and her team, the brightly lit and playfully designed store is filled with colourful and eye-catching pieces by some of the most exciting brands of the moment, including Acne Studios, Helmut Lang, Diane von Furstenberg and fragrance label Escentric Molecules. Hayashi, Börsenplatz 13-15, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2199 7255, hayashi-shop.com
Non-Global Blue Retailer S T E IN W MA
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P E TE R LA LI Q U E ● K A IS ER ER M EN U EG IL D OLI K N EC H T ● ● ●M Z EG N A B R U N EL ● JI C M LO C U C TO D ’S ● ● ● B L SAN DER IN EL LI ● M ICEHR LU TI ● V IL LA E TR O W E S TF ● H AC KEA EL KO R S A LI A ●● TT M IU M IU M O N TB LA N C ●● ● LA U TU M PA R FÜ REL M ER IE PA U L E K A I ● A LB ● ● BU RB JI M M Y R EC H T ● ER RY CHOO ● R AI N ● M O N C LE ER ● V ER SA BR EN N ER HERMÈ R ● S CE ● R IM O W ● TI FFA A● N ● IW C SC Y & CO . B O G N ER G IO R ● CA M H A FF H AU SE N A U G U SG IO A R M A N ● PE R P.22 7 FO R A T P FÜ LL I ● ● ER LL M A N CH O PA RD ● K IN D ● ● BU D LG A RI LO R O P IO R ● IA N A ● ● AU G U ST PF Ü C A R TI ER LL ER ● R O LE ● CH A ● W EMN EL P R A D AX ● PE ● LO N G LI N D A ● ● JA EG CH A M P A IG N ER ● ● ● W EL ER -L EC O U M A S S IM G U C C I ● ● H U BLLE N D O RF F LT RE O D U T TI OT ● O M EG A ● V U LO U IS ● AU BA IT DE GOE T H E P L A TO N ● TZ ● SA LV AT O RE FE RR AG AMO BÖ
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44 | G E R M A N Y G U I D E
Goethestrasse and Steinweg E
An der Hauptwache
HAYASHI
S H O P | 45
HAMBURG Radisson Blu Hotel
STEPHANSPLATZ (OPER/CCH) C K-
WA L
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Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten
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Hotel Atlantic
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Ibis Hotel
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Hotel Renaissance Hamburg
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InterCity Hotel
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Marriott
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Place Of Interest
US
SPEICHERSTADT
BAUMWALL
U-Bahn
Hotel
EET FL
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B E I S T. A
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Madison Hotel
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The permanent collection of the Hamburger Kunsthalle gallery, one of the most important collections of public art in the country, features works from across the ages. It includes pieces by prominent German artists from the past 700 years, from Renaissance painters Lucas Cranach the Elder and Hans Holbein the Younger to contemporary exponents Oswald Mathias Ungers and Gerhard Richter. Hamburger Kunsthalle, Glockengiesserwall 5, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 4281 31200, hamburger-kunsthalle.de
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Global Blue Retailer
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● BOGNER
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PHOTO: © HAMBURGER KUNSTHALLE/ROMANUS FUHRMANN RICKERT
LU ● ETRO ● GOSCHE SPECTATOR ● BESSER GEHEN SCHOCKMANN
AME
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G-STAR RAW ●
L E IC H E
N
● MARC O'POLO ESPRIT ● ZOE ● AESOP ● ● THE BODY SHOP JACADI ● ● HACKETT ● WHITEWALL NORTH SAILS ● PO ● FLAMANT DIBBERN ● LUDWIG REITER ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● WOOLRICH ● ● ME & MY STYLE PAUL SMITH ● PETRA TEUFEL ● ● PATIO ANTIQUES NEUER WALL ● FABIANA FILIPPI ● ● STONE ISLAND FRIENDLY HUNTING ●
PE E S IP MP L A HIL E UG K P Y W KE EL DO TE X B ● PA L E O & O CO ● RO NG GE RI SE EL ● M A DA ● ● L A MI A S I PE MM OX ● ● U L I D AU O N B O T G E E G AO ● ● CA UH EZI AN M B ● ● N E N F I S V S S CO. G O S A MFO ● ● O R BO & C IE AS W SS A ● O ● FL GO NY S T H O M P R E OW RS ●● ● H U F FA N T S IM O P ● ● TI S N E R EL K A M E R ● ER O H ● C HA C I K U F ● NG GF ● IC N G P T T R C O ● RI R A N N M LO L O G U EC IE S ● N E R OH MA TO JU R E M T X O EL & OR IE IEN N ● MA GER VUI PB D AM ST RT ET AIG M EL ● UN IS JO AG ● ER CA C AH M F U ● OU IS I● RR ● LI TH ● L L E O F AR N ● RA ● KR E ● GO ● GN R B & O A U L G A N Z ●● SI RE S A ● NSDE L B US M E I T E ● D ’ TO H G GA E ● T O VA A S WC H UA DAC I ●● ER ER EL SCH ● SAL W S PR UC Y ● ND R LB R ● G RR TI ● SA CLE CK A H ER PO E T S A M IL ST J KE RB DU MÈ L ● ON L A ER PE ● C I M N B UM O E R T E LP E ● RÜ DA ● VA W E L SB ● SI H S M BU H A U ● P J E AS -C LA NA ● OL R HN B E G ● M N AD JO RIB BE IG ZE SE A ● TO FA E W D O I C H I A N S ● ● LA R. N L U ● ST EL RD GI NN O P T A M VO ST NE SÖ OR IEN RL N ● FO PO AF E E ● G L M P ● OL M OS SI 7 GR W DI ER IN L A DE R 4 ER U ● A Y L Ø E LL ST L ÖL UX S CC ● LZ BA E NE M RA N AR NC ● A C E FA I E S P E TA M AL LA M ● ● ST RL STE ÜCK NE Z TB LI ● M A CO B R V E ON S● A M ● L A EIN G Y HU ● ST T TE ERR IG OL ● BO LB SB ● MU GIO NI ● IOR MA EL G AR AN ● CH ●
HOHE B
46 | G E R M A N Y G U I D E
Hohe Bleichen and Neuer Wall
HAMBURGER KUNSTHALLE
S H O P | 47
DÜSSELDORF Dorint i m Mercure
NORDPARK / AQUAZOO
TRASSE JOHANNS
Renai ssance HEI Hotel NR ICH ST RA SS E
R AT
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HE
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Hilton Düsseldorf
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Derendorf
THEODOR-HEUSS-BRÜCKE
Radisson SAS
NH Hotel
GOLZHEIMER PLATZ
R. ST ER DÜSSELDORFDERENDORF ÜN
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THEODOR-HEUSS-BRÜCKE M
KENNEDYDAMM
KLEVE
VICTORIAPLATZ/ KLEVER STR.
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Pempelfort
NORDSTR. Saga Excelsior Hotel
NER A L
LEE
Hotel an der Oper
SS
RA
TST
FER NU AN ESM
Hotel Asahi
Hotel Nikko OSTSTRASSE
NN
Madison Hotel Ibis Hotel Hotel ibis Intercity Hotel DÜSSELDORF HBF Holiday Inn Hotel Mercure HANDELSZENTRUM/ Holiday Inn MOSKAUER STRASSE Hotel InterContinental DÜSSELDORF CHINA CENTER Hotel an HE NH Mitte NH Hotel RZ der Kö OG Hotel Four Points OBERBILKER MARKT/ ST by Sheraton WARSCHAUER STRASSE E R A SSE SS HÜ RA TT EN ST Friedrichstadt R.
KR
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Place Of Interest
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Radisson Blu Media Harbour Hotel
.
KÖNIGSALLEE
Hyatt Regency Courtyard by Marriot
BREITE STR.
RHEINTURM
W ST R
HEINRICH- HEINE-ALLEE Hotel Breidenbacher Hof Orangerie STEINSTRASSE/ KÖNIGSALLEE
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RHEINKNIEBRÜCKE
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WE
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Parkhotel Steigenberger
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OBERKASSELER BRÜCKE
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BE
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DÜSSELDORF ZOO
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Lindner Hotel Rhein Residence
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Train Station
Hotel
48 | G E R M A N Y G U I D E
Königsallee OW
TZ LA
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B E R L IN
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● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● JIMMY CHOO ● AKRIS ● PRANGE
AR
HUGO BOSS ●
● BLOME ● DIOR
KÖNIGSTRASSE
TRINKAUSSTRASSE KÖNIGSAL LEE
KÖNIG SALLE E
Kesting Galerie
● JUPPEN ● GUCCI ● CHANEL ● FRANZEN ● KULT ● LEYSIEFFER ● DOUGLAS ● GEORG HORNEMAN ● PRANGE ● BURBERRY ● PATRIZIA PEPE ● POMELLATO
STEINSTR.
● CARTIER PHILIPP ● TRUE RELIGION ● LONGCHAMP ● PLEIN ● WEINGARTEN
Sevens Center
SELECTED STORES IN SEVENS CENTER: Catherine Sauvage Christ Concept Shop Zoom by Mobimex Desigual Emporio Armani Eyecatcher Gran Caffè Leonardo
Inglot It’s A Man’s World Joy & Juice Marlies Möller Pandora Philipp Plein Saturn Schnitzler Siemens Juwelen Spinning Jewelry Steiff Taifun Totty & Co. Yellow Korner
Kö Galerie ● ZARA ● BENETTON ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
GRÜNSTRA SSE
● ZARA HOME ● MARINA RINALDI ● GLOBETROTTER
BAHNSTRASSE
● ZWILLING J A HENCKELS ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● MAISON RIVIERA ● STADTPARFÜMERIE PIEPER
GRAF -ADO LF-ST RASS E
● JUWELIER FINE ART
R A L LE E
KÖNIG SALLE E
● MASSIMO DUTTI BANG & ● GIORGIO ARMANI ● OLUFSEN ● KAREN MILLEN ● H&M ● ESPRIT ● COS ● SARAR ● SWAROVSKI
Golfino SELECTED STORES IN KÖ Hackett GALERIE: Hestermann Aigner & Sohn Aigle Hut Couture Björn Borg Intersport Brecklinghaus Jacadi Brunello Jacques Britt Cucinelli Jerry’s Exklusiv Buckles & Belts Jil Sander Claudia Karl Lagerfeld Rüdinger Kartenavenue DM Kö Klinik Drogeriemarkt Kreis Edward’s La Graf Ekari BAHNSTRASSE Lacoste Elsweiler & Lifestyle By Temme Gunter Kleim Etienne Lloyd Aigner März Frankonia Mensing Gant Galerie GlenfieldGRAF-ADOMuji L F-ST R A S S E B E R LI N E
KÖNIGSALL EE
BREITE STRASSE
BENRATHER STRASSE
● PRADA ● JUWELIER FINE ART
BER L I N E R A L L E
BUCHERER ●
R
LEE
MICHAEL KORS ●
R AL
STRELLSON ●
E
INE
MARCO POLO ●
LE
RL
● MIU MIU ● TIFFANY & CO. ● LOUIS VUITTON ● HALLHUBER ● MONTBLANC ● BULGARI
Kö Center
Global Blue Retailer
AL
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SUITSUPPLY ●
ER
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● MAX MARA ● BOGNER ● LUDWIG REITER ● HARRY WINSTON ● TOD’S ● WEMPE
Galeria Kaufhof
BAHNSTRASSE
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Breuninger Kö Bogen
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SELECTED STORES S S E D IN KÖ CENTER: S T R A W Airfield Dodo DO HA Anne Fontaine Escada P.22 SC S Arnolds Bäder Hogan Bär Jimmy Choo Beauty Affair Loro Piana Beson MCM Brioni Stefano Ricci Budapester Wolford Schuhe
BE
SELECTED STORES IN KÖ BOGEN: Apple Faber Castell Hallhuber Tumi Porsche Design Rüschenbeck Unique Windsor
Mytho Accessoirs Neue Apotheke Neyes Oliver Schmidt Hairdesign Rimowa Robbe & Berking Ryf Schöffel-LowaStore Selected Cigars Sonja Kreis Steiff Studioline Thomas Sabo Van Laack Violas Wellendorff
ULLA ● POPKEN
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Department Store
Shopping Centre/Mall
S H O P | 49
GUERLAIN For spring 2018, Guerlain unveils new make-up launches for La Petite Robe Noire line. This season’s must-have products from the French beauty house include four lipstick and two nail polish shades, and the innovative La Petite Robe Noire Brow Duo (€29.50). This incorporates a brow mascara, to enhance brows, and a highlighter, which makes eyes appear bigger, into a single product. Pair your flawless eye look with the new Lip Colour Ink liquid lipsticks, which come in 15 different shades. Galeria Kaufhof, Königsallee 1-9, 40212 Düsseldorf, +49 (0)211 13910, guerlain.com
PHOTO: (TOP) LES ATELIERS/AGENCE CHIC
SHOP TAX FREE APP This season’s ultimate travel companion is the new and improved SHOP TAX FREE app. Our city maps will take you to the best Tax Free Shopping destinations in Germany, including the world’s leading brands and high-street names. After your shopping day is over, use the app to find nearby city-centre Refund Offices. Don’t miss a visit to our new VIP Lounge on Maximilianstrasse in Munich. Enjoy faster, easier Tax Free Shopping using the app’s built-in SHOP TAX FREE Card. Once your passport details are stored, your Tax Free Forms can be autofilled with one click. The SHOP TAX FREE app is available in English, Chinese and Russian; download it free from Google Play or the App Store.
globalblue.com
50 | G E R M A N Y G U I D E
DRESDEN CA
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Hotel Bayerischer Hof
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● SINN LEFFERS ● LUISA CERANO ● GANT ● STILWAHL ● FOSSIL C&A ● ● HÖGL JUWELIER ● SCHLÜTER HOFFMANN ● JUWELIER ● VÖGELE SCHUSTERMAN N JUWELIER &BORENSTEIN ● ● HOFFMANN ● EGO_IST ● LACOSTE ● MARCO POLO ● GRAZIE-SCHUH E ● NEW YORKER ● LEDER MATTHES RENO ● ● PROMOD
Adidas Bag Stage Bershka Deichmann Engbers Fast Forward Jack & Jones Juwelier Kipper Karstadt Sports Kiko Mango Marc O’Polo Media Markt Müller Pepe Jeans Primark Pull&Bear Reno Rituals S.Oliver Vero Moda Zara
GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL One of Germany’s most celebrated watchmakers, Glashütte Original has updated one of its most coveted timepieces for 2018. The Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Panorama Date features a deep black dial contrasted with white print, radiant blue SuperLumiNova hands – which illuminate in low light – and Roman numerals. The watch’s beautifully polished and satin-brushed stainless steel case is complemented by a choice of three bracelets. The result is a stylish new luxury timepiece. Glashütte Original, Töpferstrasse 4, 01067 Dresden, +49 (0)351 8212 5970, glashutte-original.com
Global Blue Retailer
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SELECTED STORES CENTRUMGALERIE
● STEFAN EL PARFÜ MERIE ● THIEMA NN HIRM ER MOD EN XXL ●
● ●W ● G E S M ● RENO SCHUH A R U E P R I F AG ● M SS T J A ● CHELS EA ● EAN NI B S S A AG ● CAMP DAVID ● TU ST ● H A R N AG E PA N D ● WE ND EL OR SG ● CASHM ER A ES ● SPIELA XIE/LE GO ● APPLE ● BOSS ● TOMMY HILFIG ER ● MARC CAIN
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● SALAMANDER XXL OVERSIZEMENSWEAR ● ● BONITA
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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
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At all airport Refund Offices, go to customs before check-in
Refund Offices Berlin
Berlin Schönefeld Airport Terminal A, Departures, next to café-bar Berlin Tegel Airport Terminal A, Service centre, next to customs Downtown Berlin KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24 Galeria Kaufhof, Alexanderplatz 9, customer service centre, fifth floor
Cologne
Cologne Bonn Airport Kirschner bookstore, terminal 1 B/C, departures, airside, and terminal 2 D, departures, landside Downtown Cologne Galeria Kaufhof, Hohe Strasse 41-53
Dresden
Dresden Airport Lufthansa ticket/information counter near customs Downtown Dresden Altmarkt-Galerie, Webergasse 1
Düsseldorf
Düsseldorf Airport Change Group, seven locations – for items in check-in luggage, departures, hall B, near counter 192 Downtown Düsseldorf Saks off 5th (Galeria Kaufhof), Heinrich-HeinePlatz 1
Frankfurt
Frankfurt Airport Terminal 1, level 2, hall B, landside, counter 643-646 Terminal 1, level 2, hall B, airside, behind passport control, near gate B41
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Terminal 1, level 3, hall Z, airside Terminal 2, level 2, hall D, landside Terminal 2, level 3, hall D, airside Downtown Frankfurt Galeria Kaufhof, Zeil 116-126, basement Karstadt, Zeil 90, fourth floor
Hamburg
Hamburg Airport Global Blue, terminal 2, departures, airside pier Downtown Hamburg Alsterhaus, Jungfernstieg 16-20 Galeria Kaufhof, MĂśnckebergstrasse 3
Hanover
Hanover Airport Terminal B, opposite customs in airport service area
Konstanz
Reisebank AG, Bahnhofplatz 43
Leipzig
Leipzig Airport/Halle Passage between central terminal and terminal B
Munich
Munich Airport: Terminal 1, departures, level 4 Terminal 2, departures, level 4 Terminal 2, transit, level 5 Downtown Munich Global Blue Lounge, Maximilianstrasse 30 Galeria Kaufhof, Kaufingerstrasse 1-5 Karstadt, Bahnhofplatz 7, third floor Oberpollinger, Neuhauserstrasse 18
Stuttgart
Stuttgart Airport Reisebank AG, terminal 1, arrivals Reisebank AG, terminal 3, departures Spend a minimum of â‚Ź25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
Contact
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111
Metzingen Outlet City
Reisebank AG, Reutlinger Strasse 58
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TRANSLATIONS
中文翻译
26: BACK TO BASICS 返璞归真 新季将至，极简主义卷土 重 来。几位 新 近加盟时装大牌的设 计师为上世 纪九十 年 代的复古潮流赋予了当代生命 力。Beth Druce报 道
近 几个季度，精 美而 夸张 的造 型在 秀 场上 层 出不穷，设 计师们 仿佛对 极简主义 避 之不及。 然而，随着创 意 十足 的新 锐设 计总 监 走马上 任，许 多一 流 时装 品牌 纷 纷回归了上世 纪九十 年 代 简约高 雅 的风 格。 德国时装设 计师Jil Sander的同名品牌可谓 九十 年 代 极简主义设 计 的代名词。干净利 落 的 线 条、独具 巧思的造 型和 千变万化 的宽松剪 裁 是她 的审美核心，其作品无不 散 发出低调 内敛 的自信。因此，2017年出任品牌创 意 总监 的夫妻 档 Lucie Meier和 Luke Meier推出与 Jil Sander经 典风 格 一 脉 相 承 的处 女作 时，着实 令 人 欢 欣 鼓 舞。 大 至布景 — — 未 来感 十足 的白色和 银色 舞台，由现代 主义 建 筑 师Zaha Hadid设 计 — —小至模 特 的素颜简妆 都 与 Jil Sander作 品的关 键元 素 遥 相 呼应。“目之 所及都是 造 型 硬 朗、轮 廓鲜 明的作品，但同时还有 非常 温 暖 的一面，以及 直击人心的性 感，这是 人们 提 到 我们品牌 时 往往不会想 到的。”Luke Meier在 走秀 结束后向美国Vogue杂志解 释 道。 拼 接丁香紫或 淡黄色薄 纱的半 透 明斜 裁 上图：Jil Sander 2018春夏系列
裙完美地诠 释了“直击人心的性感”。该系列亦 流 露出些 许 基 督 教 徒 的内敛 风 格：挺 括 的白色 衬 衫式 连 衣 裙、无领 衬 衫加 上中性 黑 裤，和 舒 适实用的外 套式 衬 衫 搭配 相 得 益 彰。临近 结 束，作品画风 突 变，大 地色 块 衔接 的钩 针 织 连 衣 裙 和 套头衫 登台亮相，展现了Meier夫妇 的 智 慧 和创 意，以及他们 对 探 讨 和 阐释当今极简 主义 的 热 切 企 盼。 1924年诞 生于 麦琴 根（Metzingen）的雨果 博 斯（Hugo Boss）在 最 新推出的Boss男 装系列 中将功 能 性 诠 释 得 淋 漓尽致。品牌总 监 Ingo Wilts带来别 致 的青灰色 风 衣 和 拉 绳带 帽 防水 卫衣，均 采用高 科 技 纤 维 打造。大 部 分外 套宽 松 随性，令人回想 起 90年 代 的简约奢 华，那 时 该品牌新潮 前卫 的学 院风 格清 晰折射出时代 的潮流。纯白色 的款 式 不加 任 何装饰，宽松 休 闲的剪裁 跃 居主角。黑色 双 排 扣西服 随 意 地 敞 开纽扣，裤 腿 上印着 赛 车条 纹。如 今 赛 车条 纹 大 行其道，令人不经 意间忘记，早 在 极简主义 和 运 动元 素 频 频结合在一 起 的90年 代，赛 车条 纹 就已 经 十分流行。 在Calvin Klein，创 意 总 监 Raf Simons的第 二个男 装和 女装系列主 打中性 风 格 的剪 裁。Simons曾在 Jil Sander工作 7年之久，玩 起 极 简主义 游刃 有余。2018年春夏季，Simons带来 了一系列 棕 色、黑色、绿 色和 黄色 的有 褶丝绸 长裤，搭配西 部 牛 仔风 立领 丝绸 衬 衫，后 者 饰 有 颜色 鲜 明的口袋。男 装和 女装 均 采用相同廓 形，旨在 强调中性 造 型 的魅力 — — Calvin Klein本人在其 职 业 生涯中也曾多 次垂青 这个 主 题。“我 受 到我 母 亲和 她 穿 衣风 格 的影 响。 她喜 欢 穿 剪裁 考究、轮 廓 硬 朗的 衣 服 — —男 式 风 格 的 衣 服。”近期 Klein在 接 受英国GQ杂
照片: © GORUNWAY.COM
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志采访 时表 示， “ 我 不 想刻 意创 造 某 种 效 果，只 是 把男 装借鉴 到女装 上 来。”Simons在 三 款针 织背心配 纯 黑长裤 的造 型中均 采用了相 似 的设 计风 格。 其他作品包括有 蓝色、橙 色和紫色等 淡 雅 配色可选 的西装，衬有圆形 垫 肩 — —当季 秀台 上 的常见 造 型。虽说 整 体 感觉十分 新潮，但 其 独特配色和 造 型令人不 禁回想 起 20多年 前 Klein 开 创 的彩色流 线 型 造 型。 Simons、Meier夫妇 和 Wilts都展现了新 一 代 设 计师的智 慧 才 能。他们 没有简单 地 朝 复古看 齐，而是 从各自品牌 的经 典作品中汲取灵 感，创 作出蕴含品牌创 建 理 念 的服 装 — — 同时 彰显 出 新潮 前卫、气 场强 大、紧跟潮流 的审美 理 念。
52: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购 物区中的30多万家商店消费 时，环 球 蓝 联 购 物 退 税 服务（Global Blue Tax Free Shopping）为 您 节省购 物 开 销。 每 年大 约有两千六百多万名旅客 享用 环 球 蓝 联 (Global Blue）的购 物 退 税 服务，何 不加入他们 的行列？您只需 在购 物 时留意 环 球 蓝 联 (Global Blue）的蓝 星标 志，或 直 接问询 商家是 否 提 供 环 球 蓝 联（Global Blue）退 税 服务，然后 遵 循以 下简单 的退 税流程即可： 1. 购物 消费 无论 您 在 哪里购 物，请向商家索要 环 球 蓝 联 退 税 表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并 保存 票 据。 2. 申领 退 税 在 您 返 程离境前，请 前往 海 关柜台，出示 退 税 表格和 相 关票 据，获 取 海 关印章，然后再到 环 球 蓝 联 的退 税 点领 取 退 税 款。 联 系方式： taxfree@ globalblue. com +421 232 111 111 最低消费25欧 元 即可申请 退 税，能 够 节省高达 14.5%的商品购买 价。请注 意：您收到的退 税 款 是 增 值 税减去环 球 蓝 联 的手 续费。如 果您 选 择 现 金 退 税，部 分机 场 还将以 退 税申请 表为单位 收取 现 金 退 税手 续费。 globalblue.cn | globalblue.ru
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 26: BACK TO BASICS
ВОЗВРАЩЕНИЕ К ОСНОВАМ Возвращение тренда 1990х на минимализм в этом сезоне совпало с рядом важных назначений в ключевых домах моды, – рассказывает Бет Дрюс Последние несколько сезонов мы были свидетелями настолько экстравагантных показов, что создалось впечатление будто минимализм стал своего рода табу. Но все же ряд ведущих домов моды во главе с новыми креативными директорами решил пересмотреть свое отношение к простой изысканности, которая определяла моду 1990х. Жиль Сандер – немецкий модельер, чей одноименный бренд стал символом минимализма в 90-е годы. Ее эстетика основана на одежде с плавными линиями, продуманными формами и свободным кроем. Поэтому было приятно видеть, что дебютная коллекция дизайнерского дуэта Люси и Люка Майера, которые были назначены художественными руководителями бренда в 2017 году, была выдержана в фирменном стиле Jil Sander. Абсолютно все детали шоу, начиная от футуристического представления, поставленного Захой Хадид, – выдающимся архитектором современности, и заканчивая минималистским макияжем моделей, казались частью одной логической цепочки, выстроенной Сандер. «Здесь можно увидеть множество угловатых, грубых вещей, но чего многие не замечают, думая о бренде, так это присутствия теплой, задушевной чувственности», – заявил Люк Майер в интервью изданию Vogue США. Эта «задушевная чувствительность» была изображена с помощью асимметричных полупрозрачных платьев, украшенных сиреневыми и бледно-желтыми прослойками. Не обошлось и без культовых элементов: снежно-белые платья-рубашки, рубашки без воротников и черные брюки унисекс в сочетании с удобными и практичными рубашками на выпуск. К своему завершению коллекция слегка изменила направление в сторону вязаных платьев и джемперов с пэчворком земляных оттенков. В какой-то мере это отразило умозрительную сторону творчества Майеров, а также их желание начать диалог о том, что же все-таки представляет собой совре-
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менный минимализм. В последней коллекции для мужчин компания Hugo Boss, основанная в Метцингене в 1924 году, сделала упор на практичности. PR-директор бренда Инго Вилтс представил серию роскошных серых тренчей с голубым отливом и непромокаемых курток с капюшоном из технических тканей. Большинство предметов верхней одежды отличались простором и отсутствием структурности, напоминая простой и лаконичный стиль 90х, когда свежая и стильная эстетика бренда олицетворила настроение той эпохи. Белоснежные образы имели мало украшений, вместо этого главным достоинством стал свободный крой. Черные костюмы с двубортными пиджаками нараспашку смотрелись очень свободно, а брюки были украшены сдержанными, но стильными полосками. Полоски сегодня можно встретить настолько часто, что мало кто заметит их связь со стилем 1990х, когда минималистский дизайн граничил со спортивными элементами. Вторую коллекцию в Calvin Klein креативный директор бренда Раф Симонс посвятил теме андрогинности. Симонс хорошо разбирается в минимализме, учитывая, что он семь лет проработал в Jil Sander. В сезоне весна-лето 2018 шелковые брюки в коричневом, черном, зеленом и желтом цвете сочетались с шелковыми ковбойскими рубашками с закрытым воротником и контрастирующими цветными карманами. Демонстрируя идентичный силуэт для мужчин и женщин, Симонс хотел подчеркнуть влияние гендерно-нейтральных форм – тема, к которой не раз возвращался сам Кельвин Кляйн. «Большое влияние на меня оказала моя мать и ее стиль. Она довольно строго одевалась, ее одежда была больше похожа на мужскую или ту, которую могли бы носить мужчины, – рассказывал Кляйн в недавнем интервью британскому GQ. – Я не пытался делать громких заявлений, но использовал мужскую одежду, чтобы завоевать внимание женщин». Симонс применил схожую технику в трех образах, включивших вязанные кофты без рукавов в сочетании с прямыми черными брюками. Среди прочего можно отметить цветные костюмы бледно-голубого, оранжевого и фиолетового цвета с закругленными плечами – довольно популярный образ в этом сезоне. Общее настроение оставалась вполне современным, но было globalblue.ru
и нечто особенное в тональности и атмосфере этих образов, вызывающее в памяти красочные, гибкие формы, созданные Кляйном более двух десятилетий назад. Симонс, Мейеры и Вилтс ясно дали понять, что принадлежат к новому поколению дизайнеров. Вместо того, чтобы просто переосмысливать тренды минувших дней, модельеры черпают вдохновение из архивов своих брендов. Они предлагают одежду, которая воплощает основы каждого отдельно взятого бренда, передавая вместе с тем современную, яркую и актуальную эстетику.
52: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE
СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С TAX FREE Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
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ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية
BACK TO BASICS :26
عودة إىل األُ ُسس
األسلوب البسيط يعود إىل ساحة األزياء هذا املوسم وأسامء جديدة يف أبرز دور األزياء تستحدث هذه املوضة من التسعينات.تقرير شهدنا تصاميم غاية يف الرتف يف املواسم األخرية ،فبات األسلوب البسيط أشبه مبصطل ٍح مح ّرم .إّال أ ّن بعض دور األزياء الرائدة تعود أدراجها إىل ذلك التكلّف البسيط الذي ميّز أسلوبها يف التسعينات وذلك من خالل مدراء ابتكار جدد مبدعني. Jil Sanderمص ّممة أزياء أملانيّة ،اقرتنت عالمتها التجاريّة التي تحمل إسمها بالتصاميم البسيطة يف التسعينات .يقوم أسلوبها عىل املالبس ذي الخطوط النظيفة واألشكال الحذقة والخياطة العمليّة .لذا كان من امل ُفرِح أن نرى روحيّة أسلوب Sanderيف املجموعة الجديدة من توقيع الزوجني Lucieو ،Luke Meierاللّذين ُعيّنا مديرا االبتكار لدى العالمة كل يشء ملتزماً بالتسلسل املنطقي للعنارص األساسيّة يف العام .2017بدا ّ التي وضعتها Sander؛ من املوقع املتمثّل بعرض خارج عن املألوف الفض ،من ابتكار املهندسة العرصيّة ،Zaha Hadidإىل ماكياج باألبيض و ّ رصح Luke Meierملجلّة American Vogue العارضات الخفيفّ . بعد العرض“ :تض ّم املجموعة قطعاً ذكوريّة بنيويّة مصقولة للغاية ،لكن ما يغيب عن ذهن كثريين عندما يفكّرون بالعالمة ،هو أنّها تنضوي عىل حيّز من اللذّة املرهفة”. اب مائلة القطع ،شبه شفّافة، متثّلت هذه “اللذّة املرهفة” يف أثو ٍ مز ّودة بطبقات من اللّيل” أو األصفر الباهت .كام اقرتنت املجموعة بنفح ٍة كنسيّة فشملت قمصاناً طويلة ناصعة البياض وتيرشت بدون ياقة و“اويل منسقة مع قمصان مفتوحة مريحة وعمليّة .ويف نهاية سوداء للجنسني ّ غريت التصاميم مسارها فربزت فساتني الكروشيه والكنزات املجموعةّ ، املزخرفة برتقيع ترايب األلوان .فبدت املجموعة وكأنّها انعكاس إلبداع الزوجني Meierورغبتهام بالتحدّث عن ف ّن البساطة الحايل. تأسست عالمة Hugo Bossيف Metzingenسنة 1924 ّ وأضفت عنرص العمليّة إىل أحدث مجموعة مالبس رجاليّة لديها من خالل معاطف ومالبس أنيقة مز ّودة بأحزمة وقبّعات واقية من املطر باللّون الرمادي الداكن ومصنوعة من أنسجة تقنيّة .اتّسمت معظم املالبس املبسطة الخارجيّة ّ بالقصات الفضفاضة وغري املنظّمة ،عىل غرار الفخامة ّ التي سادت يف التسعينات ،حيث عكس أسلوب العالمة الحيوي الفاخر أجواء تلك الحقبة .متيّزت تشكيلة من املالبس البيضاء بندرة الزخرفة فيها بقصاتها املريحة .ولُبِست البدالت السوداء املز ّودة بصفّني من األزرار وتألّقت ّ املفتوحة بطريق ٍة عفويّة ومتيّزت بخطوط عريضة عىل طول الرِجل .تجدر اإلشارة إىل أ ّن هذه الخطوط رائجة للغاية اآلن ،لدرج ٍة أنّه بات من السهل نسيانها يف التسعينات ،عندما كان يُرفق التصميم البسيط بعنرص ريايض يف أغلب األحيان. أ ّما لدى ،Calvin Kleinويف مجموعة Raf Simonsالثانية كمدير ابتكاري للعالمة ،شكّلت التصاميم املناسبة للجنسني ِمح َور املجموعتني النسائيّة والرجاليّة .ال عجب أن يكون Simonsمتم ّرساً بالتصميم البسيط من حيث األسلوب إذ سبق وعمل لدى Jil Sander لسبع سنوات .يف مجموعة ربيع/صيف ،2018ت ّم تنسيق “وال حريري
واسع عند الحوض بألوان الب ّني واألسود واألخرض واألصفر مع قمصان رعاة ٍ وياقات مغلقة. بقر حريريّة غربيّة األسلوب ،مز ّودة بجيوب متناقضة األلوان قصات متشابهة للنساء والرجال ،سعى Simonsإىل الرتكيز عىل أثر بتصميم ّ األشكال الحياديّة ،وهو ما لجأ إليه Calvin Kleinبنفسه عدّة م ّرات يف خرا ً مع مجلّة British GQ خالل مسريته .رشح Kleinيف مقابلة أجراها مؤ ّ قائالً“ :تأث ّرت بوالديت وطريقة لبسها .كانت ترتدي مالبس متقنة الخياطة وقطعاً ذكوريّة ،ميكن ألي رجل ارتداءها .مل أكن أحاول ابتكار يشء خارج عن املألوف ،بل كنت أستخدم املالبس الرجاليّة كعنرص مؤث ّر عىل تصاميمي للنساء ”.وقد اعتمد Simonsالتقنيّة نفسها يف ثالث إطالالت متثّلت بثالث منسقة مع “اويل مستقيمة سوداء. قمصان محبوكة من دون أكاممّ ، ٍ بدرجات خفيفة من ألوان األزرق وشملت القطع األخرى ،بدالت مل ّونة والربتقايل والبنفسجي ،ذا أكتاف مد ّورة وشبه مبطّنة ،وقد ظهر هذا األسلوب منصات العرض هذا املوسم .ميكن القول إ ّن الج ّو العام عرصي، عىل عدد من ّ لكن مث ّة يف هذه اإلطالالت ما يعيد إىل الذاكرة أشكاالً مفعمة باأللوان ابتكرها Kleinمنذ ما يزيد عن عقدين كل من Simonsوالزوجان Meierو Wiltsأنّهم بالتايل ،برهن ّ ينتمون إىل جيل جديد من املص ّممني .فبدالً من إعادة إحياء موضة غابرة، يلجأ هؤالء املبتكرون إىل أرشيف عالماتهم التجاريّة ويقدّمون مالبس تنضوي كل عالمة لكن بأسلوب عرصي ومتني ذات صلة. عىل جذور ّ
WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE :52
عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل، تس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة
تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكرث من 300,000متجر يف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العامل. فل َم ال تنض ّم إىل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الرضيبة كل سنة؟ ما عليك إال أن تبحث عن من خالل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق الخاص بغلوبل بلو أينام تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عىل طلب اسرتداد الرضيبة ّ Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصاالت. .2أطلب يف طريق العودة إىل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجامرك عند نقطة املغادرة لتتم الخاصة املصادقة عىل إيصاالتك قبل قبض االسرتداد من أحد مكاتب االسرتداد ّ بنا. لالتّصال:
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 أنفق ح ّدا ً أدىن قدره €25وادّخر حتّى 14.5%من مثن مشرتياتك .يشمل
مبلغ االسرتداد النهايئ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الرضيبة عىل القيمة املضافة ناقص رسم إداري .يف بعض املطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عىل كل طلب اسرتداد ضيبة يف حال رغبت بالحصول عىل اسرتداد فوري نقدي. globalblue.com
POSTCARD
STEINWAY & SONS In 1850, Heinrich Engelhard Steinweg, a German piano and cabinet maker, emigrated to New York. Three years later, after changing his surname to Steinway, he founded Steinway & Sons in Manhattan. In 1880, the company set up a piano factory back in Germany, on Hamburg’s Schanzenstrasse (pictured). The premises relocated to the city’s Rondenbarg street in the 1920s and today the Steinway & Sons Hamburg factory and showroom remain at the same address. Around 1,200 pianos are meticulously created here each year. In the 1990s Steinway started making its Boston and Essex pianos, which combine quality with lower prices. Recent Steinway & Sons highlights include limited-edition Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 52
collaborations, as well as the ground-breaking Spirio, a state-of-the-art self-playing piano launched in 2015. Specially devised software moves the Spirio’s keys automatically, playing hundreds of works by Bach, Chopin, Bernstein and more. Select a piece from an iPad and hear it played with the skill and emotion of a master musician. More than 160 years after the company was founded, Steinway & Sons is known worldwide for unparalleled excellence and remains in tune with the times. grc Steinway & Sons, Rondenbarg 15, 22525 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 8539 1300, steinway.com
SHOPPING IS BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE Shop Tax Free and save up to 14.5% Find out more at globalblue.com
THE SWISS HOUSE OF WATCHES AND FINE JEWELLERY
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