SHOP Frankfurt AW16

FRANKFURT | ФРАНКФУРТ | 法兰克福 |

FRANKFURT

Page 42

Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2016/17

IT’S ABOUT TIME: Germany’s innovative watchmakers are coming to the fore

‫ف رانكفورت‬

WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS

Willkommen bei Bucherer, ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmen und eines der führenden Häuser für Uhren und Schmuck in Europa.

In Frankfurts größtem Juweliergeschäft erwartet Sie eine überwältigende Auswahl an Luxus-Uhrenmarken sowie exquisite Schmuckstücke, ein erstklassiger Service und eine eigene Rolex und Patek Philippe Boutique.

Welcome to Bucherer, a Swiss company with a long tradition and one of the leading establishments for watches and jewellery in Europe.

In Frankfurt’s largest jewellery store, you will find an overwhelming selection of luxury watch brands and exquisite jewellery, as well as first-class service and an in-shop Rolex and Patek Philippe Boutique.

und viele mehr · and many more

Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1

Patek Philippe is available at the following Bucherer stores: Berlin Friedrichstraße 179, Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1 and Munich Residenzstraße 11.

Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com

DOUGL AS.EU

Beauty and more … visi Europe’ perfumery!

WE WILL BE PLE ASED TO WELCOME YOU TO THE DOUGL AS WORLD OF BE AUT Y IN FRANKFURT:

∙ Zeil 98–102, 069 - 133869150 ∙ Kaiser Straße 1, 069 - 284969

Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories.

With 1,700 perfumeries in 19 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.

Explore our world of beauty!

Read more on douglas.eu

FASHION, LIFESTYLE AND MORE

You can find these and other top brands in Karstadt stores in: Berlin: Kurfürstendamm, Schlossstrasse, Charlottenburg, Hermannplatz, Müllerstrasse / Düsseldorf: Schadowstrasse / Frankfurt: Zeil / Hamburg: Mönckebergstrasse / Hanover: Georgstrasse / Leipzig: Petersstrasse / Dresden: Prager Strasse / Cologne: Breite Strasse / Munich: Bahnhofplatz / Nuremberg: An der Lorenzkirche

Our branches in top central locations in most major German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience. Lots of customers are attracted by not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events.

Enjoy your next shopping spree on a journey of discovery through our Karstadt stores.

Open until 8 p.m.

FRANKFURT AN DER HAUPTWACHE Shopping at its best!

Located at the ZEIL, one of Europe’s famous shopping streets, GALERIA Kaufhof offers you a full-service package: excellent products, capable staff and diverse amenities guarantee you an unforgettable experience. From brand-name fashion items to jewellery, from household goods to accessories – our fascinating shops and themed areas provide a huge variety of international products and our restaurant “Leonhard’s” an unique view over Frankfurt’s skyline.

If you come from a country outside the EU, please enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof!

Please scan the QRcode with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Frankfurt, an der Hauptwache.

Free WLAN in our store!

We also offer the service City Refund and pay out all your German Tax Free Forms.

GALERIA Kaufhof...

... makes you fall in love with Germany

GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

galeria-kaufhof.de

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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Германия

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this forward-looking fnancial hub.

Frankfurt has much to ofer, as our guide on page 63 reveals. Readers who appreciate high-end design will enjoy our feature on Germany’s innovative luxury watch brands (page 42), and in this issue we also explore the city though the eyes of photographer Horst Friedrichs.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Frankfurt. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

巴黎

Portugal Prague Riga Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius

Чехия

Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

@shopcontent

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

/globalblue

ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Welcome to Frankfurt

Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Nuremberg Oslo Paris

THE EXPLORER II Built to accompany intrepid explorers, engineered for adventures to extreme frontiers.

It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.

OYSTER PERPETUAL E XPLORER II

A SPECI AL COLLEC TION BY GIGI HADID

#TOMMYXGIGI

BÖRSENSTRASSE 1 FRANKFURT

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ILLUSTRATION: ANDREW NYE

CONTRIBUTORS

Stephen Doig SHOP’s former features editor Stephen Doig is now men’s style editor and assistant luxury editor at the Telegraph; he has also written for Vogue, GQ and the Financial Times.

His weaknesses include red wine and good cheese. globalblue.com

Danielle De Wolfe Danielle De Wolfe, who is SHOP’s fashion writer, has contributed to publications including Time Out London, Sabotage Times, Esquire and Dazed Digital. She is also the founding editor of the One Stop Record Shop blog.

Andrew Nye Andrew Nye created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Frankfurt. His graphic artwork has previously been commissioned by Barclays, Eurostar and Metro magazine, among others. His conceptual approach makes him a perfect illustrator for this cover, inspired by our feature about Germany’s innovative watchmakers on page 42. It shows a lattice of luxury timepieces representing some of the country’s famous landmarks, including Frankfurt’s medieval Römer building.

Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims has contributed to a wide range of publications, including the Financial Times, Independent, Observer, Wallpaper and Esquire. His latest book is Icons of Women’s Style.

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Andrew Nye Contributors Stephen Doig, Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion writer Danielle De Wolfe News editor Ginger Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Charlotte Rogers Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Milkha Lala Artworking assistant Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak

GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Head of commercial Europe/ Latin America Pier Francesco Nervini Head of commercial central Europe Ronald Christen Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialists Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko Sales manager Pino Dufter Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Tourismus+Congress, Kaiserstrasse 56, 60329 Frankfurt am Main, +49 (0)69 2123 8800, frankfurt-tourismus.de

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Sammy Ha, Adanna Nwachuku

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue

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CONTENTS

PHOTO: TIM WULF

p.48

Products

Features

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42

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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Frankfurt this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

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News 36 38

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Frankfurt News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

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Cover story: A Matter Of Time Germany’s leading watch brands have much to offer when it comes to luxury and innovation, as Stephen Doig discovers Under The Lens Frankfurt-born photographer Horst Friedrichs takes Josh Sims on a tour of the city, sharing his insider tips on the best under-the-radar spots for stylish men Dazzling Success With well over a century of experience in the industry, Bucherer is one of the world’s leading diamond experts. Hannah Lewis explores the brand’s striking collections

Above: Walon & Rosetti bar is one of photographer Horst Friedrichs’ favourite Frankfurt haunts

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CONTENTS

p.90

Experience 58

Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

Guide

Translations

63

80 Русский Перевод 84 美文翻译 89

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Frankfurt

Essentials 78

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

Souvenir 90

The essential item to bring home

E NGL I S H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE...

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru

FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- GlobalBlue /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent Above: customisable jewellery from Thomas Sabo’s autumn/winter 2016/17 collection makes a perfect souvenir

PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

globalblue.cn 每日更新精品购 物信息，分享海外省钱秘笈

Welcome to Kraemer!

You will fnd a fne selection of original watch brands and exquisite jewellery. Of course, we can advise you in english and chinese too.

We look forward to your visit.

Frankfurt / Zeil 84 and Skyline Plaza www.juweliere-kraemer.de

In the mood for fashion?

Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices. visit us: www.c-a.com facebook.com/ca Frankfurt: Zeil 48 • Nordwestzentrum • Hessen-Center

Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам. . .

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CHECK OUT

EARN YOUR STRIPES If chic but striking accessories are the wardrobe additions you’re after, look no further than this luxurious version of the Boss Bespoke handbag, which combines the tactile feel of felt with vertical panels of smooth leather. This tailored yet soft design perfectly captures the creative influence of Boss womenswear artistic director Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 78

Jason Wu, who cites the Bauhaus arts movement as a reference point. The bag is also available in a muted grey, white and earthy brown colour combination. dw Boss Bespoke handbag, €1,290, Boss, Börsenstrasse 1, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2972 38590, hugoboss.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 72

BADEN-BADEN Lichtentaler

Strasse

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WINTER BLUES Shrug off the cold with this crisp, icy look featuring frosty pastels and dark hues

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1. Antonia Zander cape, €1,249, Bailly Diehl, Terminal 1, Frankfurt Airport, +49 (0)69 6902 4980, antoniazander.de

3. Bulgari handbag, €1,620, August Pfüller, Goethestrasse 15-17, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 1337 8060, bulgari.com

5. Hermès gloves, €675, Hermès, Goethestrasse 25, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 298 0283, hermes.com

2. Ray-Ban glasses, €149, Brillen-Weiss, Römerberg 36, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 282133, ray-ban.com

4. Victorinox suitcase, €475, Galeria Kaufhof, Zeil 116-126, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 21910, victorinox.com

6. L’Occitane room spray, €27.50, L’Occitane, Kalbächer Gasse 12, 60313 Frankfurt +49 (0)69 2199 8740, loccitane.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 78

PHOTOS: (1) MIU RECK PHOTOGRAPHY; (4) SPECKHARD PHOTOGRAPHY

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PHOTOS: (5) VICENTE SAHUC; (7) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY

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7. Jimmy Choo shoes, €475, Jimmy Choo, Goethestrasse 27, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2578 82800, jimmychoo.com 8. Swarovski necklace, €79, Swarovski, MyZeil, Zeil 106, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2097 8805, swarovski.com

globalblue.com

9. Sinn watch, €1,135, Sinn, Römerberg 34, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9784 14650, sinn.de

10. Diesel jeans, €180, Diesel, Rathenauplatz 1-3, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9288 3160, diesel.com

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EARTHY HUES

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A variety of deep, rich shades combine to create an easygoing autumnal look 1

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1. Burberry scarf, €650, Burberry, Goethestrasse 26-28, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9139 6071, burberry.com

3. Beoplay H8 headphones, €499, Bang & Olufsen, Kaiserstrasse 24, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 8720 0100, beoplay.com

5. Strellson coat, €449, Strellson, Skyline Plaza, Europa Allee 6, 60327 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 7675 8386, strellson.com

2. Moncler boots, €525, Moncler, Goethestrasse 25, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9288 3110, moncler.com

4. Acqua di Parma cologne, 100ml, €172, Albrecht, MyZeil, Zeil 106, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9203 75757, acquadiparma.com

6. Salvatore Ferragamo bag, €1,250, Salvatore Ferragamo, Goethestrasse 2, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 920 0730, ferragamo.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 78

PHOTO: (3) JEPPE SØRENSEN

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GANT.COM

GANT STORES FRANKFURT MYZEIL & MAIN-TAUNUS-ZENTRUM & AIRPORT-AIRSIDE FLUGSTEIG A

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AUTUMN FIRE

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Warm up your wardrobe this season with a range of bold, vibrant shades

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1. Frey Wille bracelet, €935, Pletzsch, Zeil 81, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 281659, freywille.com

3. Montblanc pen, €7,950, Montblanc, Goethestrasse 29, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2165 7968, montblanc.com

5. Aigner bag, €329, Aigner, Goethestrasse 7, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9776 3559, aignermunich.com

2. Prada shoes, €650, Prada, Goethestrasse 9, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 283469, prada.com

4. Chanel lipstick, €35, Douglas, Zeil 98-102, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 1338 69150, chanel.com

6. Dr Hauschka lip liner, €11.99, Galeria Kaufhof, Zeil 116-126, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 21910, dr.hauschka.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 78

ENGELHORN DESIGN HIGHLIGHTS E XCLU S I V E FAS H I O N A N D ACCES S O R I ES O F I N T E R N AT I O N A L D ES I G N E RS A N D FAS H I O N L A B E L S

THE WORLD OF FASHION AND SPORT IN MANNHEIM +49 (0)621 – 167 22 22 WWW.ENGELHORN.DE

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PHOTO: © PIERODEGROSSI 2016

SHOP WINDOW

BERLUTI’S GERMAN DEBUT Parisian footwear specialist Berluti picked Frankfurt as the location for its first boutique in Germany, which threw open its doors to the public in April 2016. A cross between a cabinet of curiosities and a gentleman’s club, the new store provides a luxurious environment for the brand’s shoes, leather goods and ready-to-wear Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 78

clothing, as well as the recently launched series entitled Toys for Boys. Established in 1895, Berluti has always carefully balanced tradition and modernity in its high-end products, and the Frankfurt store is testimony to the brand’s attention to detail. gc Berluti, Goethestrasse 34, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2609 35150, berluti.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73

Berlin Hannover München Hamburg Düsseldorf Köln Frankfurt Sylt Wien Zürich Tokyo Beijing Luxemburg shop online at bree.com

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ROYAL TREATMENT Lingerie specialist Rigby & Peller has opened a store in Maro Opernquartier, Frankfurt’s new luxury shopping spot. The brand can trace its history back to 1939, when expert corset makers Gita Peller and Bertha Rigby opened a single store in London; since then it has prospered, being awarded a royal warrant from Queen Elizabeth II and opening other branches both in the UK and further afield. The new Frankfurt boutique will stock a carefully chosen range of high-end lingerie, including labels such as Andrés Sardá and Calvin Klein, as well as offering its celebrated fitting service. gc Rigby & Peller, Neue Mainzer Strasse 80, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2999 2955, rigbyandpeller.de

IN BRIEF Versace recently introduced its characterful new men’s fragrance, Dylan Blue, which comes in a vibrant blue and gold bottle.

The eau de toilette’s citrusy aromas make way for woody notes of papyrus, ambrox and patchouli, while tonka bean and saffron add warmth

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73

COOK UP A STORM Le Creuset’s Frankfurt boutique opened in March 2016. As well as stocking the heritage brand’s beautifully made and colourful cast iron and stoneware, the store features an integrated kitchen which is used for cooking demonstrations and food tastings. Many of Le Creuset’s products come with a 30-year guarantee, so customers can be sure that whatever they choose – from a sturdy casserole dish in the brand’s signature Volcanic orange to something in pretty Chiffon pink – will be a part of their life for a long time. gc Le Creuset, Rossmarkt 11, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2972 4808, lecreuset.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 67

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 78

S H O P | 39

PHOTO: NIKITA KULIKOV PHOTOGRAPHY

STATE OF THE ART

ONE TO BAG Bree has been creating high-quality leather handbags since 1970. The design of the timeless yet up-to-the-minute Cambridge collection is infused with British flair: the style pictured, the Cambridge 7 (â‚Ź399), is a cross-body bag available in black, whisky or, as here, rich port-coloured leather lined with cotton. gc Bree, Rossmarkt 23, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 292620, bree.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 67

globalblue.com

German fashion brand Front Row Society has opened its first ever boutique. The inviting concept store, which covers 300 square metres, carries the label’s entire range of bags, wraps and scarves, including its collaboration with Berlin-based artists Santiago Taccetti, Louise Gibson and Michelle Jezierski. Exclusive jewellery pieces by Vieri and fragrances from April Aromatics complete the offering. The interior design, with its simple white walls and modular furniture, is inspired by the idea of an art gallery and will feature monthly exhibitions. gc Front Row Society, Neue Mainzer Strasse 80, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2199 9777, frontrowsociety.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73

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PHOTO: THOMAS BACH

LIGHT TOUCH Family-run Robbe & Berking, founded in 1874, is known for high-quality silverware made in its own workshop, and its products are found in smart hotels and restaurants around the world.

The brand’s collections cover every style from traditional to modern, and its new line for 2016 is a worthy addition to the range. Eclipse is inspired, as the name suggests, by a natural phenomenon; the light catches the curved surfaces of this elegantly designed, handcrafted silver cutlery in a way that is reminiscent of the diffused light of a solar eclipse.

The collection is available in sets of four, 24, 39 or 69 pieces (from €661) and is a sure way to add an air of sophistication to your dinner table. gc Robbe & Berking, Steinweg 8, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 296952, robbeberking.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73

Established in 1878, Wempe started out as a modest watchmaker’s store. Nearly 140 years later, it is now a worldwide jewellery brand, but remains a fourth-generation family-owned business. For autumn/winter 2016/17, Wempe presents an array of pieces featuring clever new ways of using pearls and eye-catching coloured gemstones. Among the highlights is Wempe’s haute joaillerie diamond necklace (€215,000). Made of three pear-shaped diamonds and almost 300 brilliant-cut diamonds, this stunning piece of jewellery is a masterpiece. gc Wempe, An der Hauptwache 7, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 20011, wempe.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 78

PHOTO (BOTTOM): MATTHIAS HOFFMANN

SHINE ON

A MATTER OF TIME 80

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Germany’s leading watch brands have much to ofer when it comes to luxury and innovation, as Stephen Doig discovers

Above: a watch being assembled at A Lange & Söhne

T

he common view that peerless watch design is confned solely to Switzerland is gently starting to shift. Consumers are looking beyond Geneva and the Jura mountains, recognising that world-class craftsmanship can be found elsewhere. For the past decade, Britain has been quietly making waves in the world of horology, and Scandinavia has applied its clean lines and minimalist aesthetic to timepieces.

One of the leading countries in watch design, however, is just across the border from the great Swiss brands: Germany, whose watchmakers have recently come to the fore. Pioneering engineering methods and a clear grasp of analytics have long been the hallmarks of German design, and these pragmatic qualities are equally essential to its innovative timepieces. ‘Germany has a strong presence in

Germany is a force to be reckoned with in the watch market horology, and historically the country has founded some integral watch brands’, says Tim Barber, editor-in-chief of luxury watch publication Telegraph Time. In Switzerland, the farming machinery used in the Swiss mountains became instrumental in the founding of its watch industry. Similarly, the area of Glashütte, with its history of engineering and manufacturing, has been a key location in the evolution of the German watch industry.

A pioneering spirit of ingenuity is evident at Glashütte Original. Founded in 1845 as Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe, the brand soon established itself as a master of fne watchmaking. In the 1960s, it launched the Above (clockwise from top left): a Glashütte Original watchmaker at work; the brand’s renowned Spezimatic model; A Lange & Söhne Saxonia Moon Phase timepiece

PHOTO: © GLASHÜTTER UHRENBETRIEB GMBH/RENÉ GAENS

PHOTO: © GLASHÜTTER UHRENBETRIEB GMBH/RENÉ GAENS

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classic Spezimatic model, which was celebrated in an era of ostentation for its clean, almost minimalist design. This year, the brand plays to its retro-style strengths with the Sixties Iconic collection – a series of classic watches with saturated, richly toned dials fnished with lacquer. Glashütte Original unveiled several grand designs at this year’s Baselworld watch and jewellery trade show, including the Senator Excellence watch. The discreetly handsome timepiece, featuring a classic dial and white gold and silver case, proves that Glashütte Original caters to everyone, from the fashion-forward to those looking for vintage inspiration and more traditional styles.

Glashütte Original is not the only brand to hail from the Glashütte area; the location is also home to historic watch specialist A Lange & Söhne. Founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Above {from top): Glashutte Original Senator Sixties watch; the brand’s Original Senator Sixties Square Tourbillon model

PHOTO: © GLASHÜTTER UHRENBETRIEB GMBH

PHOTO: © GLASHÜTTER UHRENBETRIEB GMBH/RENÉ GAENS

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German watch brands demonstrate technical finesse, attention to detail and bold design Lange, it is renowned for its sense of tradition and classic timepieces. Refecting its signature pared-back aesthetic, watches are named simply Lange 1, Lange 2, and so on. Despite its long history, the brand is as relevant as ever, and recently unveiled the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater digital watch. In an era where every luxury brand has created a digital timepiece, A Lange & Söhne has produced an exceptional model which has a digital display yet is mechanised using the traditional craftsmanship inherent to the brand – the best of both worlds.

While brands such as Glashütte Original and A Lange & Söhne create watches that sell for upwards of four – and sometimes fve – fgures, the work of German house Perigaum 1972 comes as a welcome contrast, and is accessible to a far broader audience. A veritable youngster compared to other horology

houses, it was founded in 2001 by a collective of watchmakers devoted to creating dazzling, bold and contemporary timepieces. The brand was inspired by the famous quote of astronaut Neil Armstrong when he became the frst man on the Moon in 1969, and a strong sense of adventure informs its pilot and diving watches.

Models such as the Lumberjack look suitably substantial and masculine in contrast to the watch industry’s recent trend for dainty styles.

With all the technical fnesse, attention to detail and boldness of design for which their Swiss counterparts are renowned, these brands prove that Germany is a force to be reckoned with in the horological market. Switzerland might currently have the edge in terms of tradition and reputation, but Germany’s roster of innovative brands is – pardon the pun – well worth watching

Above (clockwise from top left): A Lange & Söhne’s founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange; the brand’s Zeitwerk Minute Repeater model; one of the watchmaker’s craftsmen at work

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Above: photographer Horst Friedrichs

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UNDER THE LENS Frankfurt-born photographer Horst Friedrichs takes Josh Sims on a tour of the city, sharing his insider tips on the best under-the-radar spots for stylish men

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f you stop off at the Hoppenworth & Ploch coffee shop and roaster on Friedberger Landstrasse, you may well see Horst Friedrichs there. The Frankfurt-born, currently London-based documentary photographer is working on a new book about coffee – though less the caffeine than the culture. ‘Going to a coffee festival, with all the shiny machines and hipster baristas, is to make a journey into a very specific world,’ he says.

Doing just that is Friedrich’s calling.

Celebrated for his book-length photographic studies of various subcultures – from Sufis in Pakistan to mods in Margate, desert communities in Venezuela to denim fanatics – Friedrichs has always been drawn to underground but influential groups. ‘I’ve always had this anthropologist’s eye,’ he says. ‘Growing up in Frankfurt for me was always about punk from the UK, or reggae from Jamaica. I’ve always found investigating subcultures to be worthwhile: so little tends

to be known about them and yet so much comes from them. It all starts on the street and then becomes the commercial mainstream.

Everything gets stolen from subcultures.’

Look under the surface of his home town and you’ll see evidence of this theory at work.

The Frankfurt of his youth was a pioneer city for techno music and style, for example (‘I was never really into the look, though – all those big platform boots,’ he notes). But now, having undergone rapid gentrification in part thanks to its place as a financial hub, the city’s strongest subculture might be considered its community of bankers, who have their own distinctive style and habits. Goethestrasse, with its swathes of luxury purveyors, is testament to this.

But Frankfurt still has its more progressive tribal elements as well. Friedrichs cites, for example, the city’s Stilblüten Festival für Mode und Design, an annual exhibition of young designers’ work founded in 2005 by his sister, Stella Friedrichs, and the number of small, independent clothing stores selling ‘heritage menswear’, for which Germany has an enduring affection. ‘This look – rugged

PHOTO: TIM WULF

PHOTO: © CASPAR ARNHOLD

50 | F E AT U R E S

To get to the real undercurrent of the city, you need to get off the beaten track workwear, selvedge denim, boots, Americana – is especially strong here because Germans like quality in the stuff they wear, and among menswear this is particularly wearable whatever your age. It has a utility and a timelessness to it.’

Those looking to investigate should head to stores such as The Listener on Stephanstrasse, Red Wing Shoes on Kornmarkt, Sør on Kaiserstrasse and – not just for clothes but also many other quality-oriented products – Manufactum on Bockenheimer Anlage.

Whenever he is in town Friedrichs also makes time to get a suitably rugged haircut as well at the Torreto Barbershop on Alte Gasse.

‘Germany’s central location means it’s

Above (clockwise from top left): at the Stilblüten Festival für Mode und Design; Walon & Rosetti bar; B74 Selected Goods boutique; a view of Goethestrasse, the city’s luxury shopping street

PHOTO: DAFLIPPI CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

PHOTO: CHRISTIAN SCHRAMM PHOTOGRAPHY

S H O P | 51

good at absorbing ideas from all over but, like Japan, it’s better at copying and refining than it is at coming up with anything original,’ he continues. ‘You can find perfect examples of certain subcultures which are great to look at, but perhaps lack real soul. You have to go to the source for that.’

In other words, as ever, to get to the real undercurrent of the city, you need to get off the beaten track, and seek out its less glossy and more avant-garde quarters. Friedrichs recommends Frankfurt’s gallery area, its bustling railway station, and especially the once no-go area around it, the Bahnhofsviertel.

Along the way you may discover gems such as B74 Selected Goods on Berliner Strasse, the 60-plus stalls of the Kleinmarkthalle indoor market, and, to recuperate, Phoenix Tea on Friedberger Landstrasse or the Walon & Rosetti bar on Moselstrasse.

‘I go back to Frankfurt regularly to see my family and to look around … Although it’s largely a very wealthy city now, explore it and you find that it’s still full of the unexpected,’ he says. ‘I always take my camera.’

52 | F E AT U R E S

S H O P | 53

DAZZLING SUCCESS

With well over a century of experience in the industry, Bucherer is one of the world’s leading diamond experts.

Hannah Lewis explores the brand’s striking collections

54 | F E AT U R E S

F

ounded in 1888, Bucherer has grown from a small family-owned business into one of the world’s leading fine watch and jewellery specialists. Now in the hands of the third generation, with Jörg G Bucherer at the helm, the brand has embraced numerous styles and developments over the years. But one passion has remained steadfast throughout: diamonds. For generations, Bucherer has cultivated its expertise in the market, from selecting the most fabulous stones to enlisting the most skilled craftsmen to transform these precious gems into beautiful jewellery. Today, the brand is one of the world’s foremost experts in the field of diamond jewellery.

‘The diamond is the undisputed star of the gemstones … its magic sparkle gives expression to emotion in its purest form,’ says chief diamond buyer Tobias Lanz, who began at Bucherer 20 years ago as a goldsmith and has gradually specialised. ‘I was always fascinated by diamonds and gemstones,’ he says. The diamonds team may be vast – including buyers and gemologists, goldsmiths and polishers – but each and every single

Bucherer is one of the world’s foremost diamond experts member shares the same enthusiasm for and commitment to diamonds and to excellence.

This is reflected in Bucherer’s Diamonds Collection, which the brand describes as ‘an expression of pure passion’.

The Diamonds Collection comprises a wide range of exquisite pieces. From simple everyday creations – a dainty bracelet or a pair of stud earrings – to standout, unashamedly glamorous occasionwear, Bucherer’s team takes its passion for these stones and translates it into items for every possible occasion and client. Often inspired by natural forms, the brand’s trademark style is elegant, feminine and refined, embracing the enduring classicism of diamonds and the 82 88

86

Previous page: two pieces from Bucherer’s Diamonds Collection

S H O P | 55

precious metals that complement them, while remaining thoroughly modern.

At the heart of this process is the undisputable quality of the stones. Luckily Bucherer is one of the world’s most prominent experts in selecting diamonds, with Lanz well placed to oversee the matter. ‘Bucherer offers one of the largest selections of diamond jewellery in Europe,’ he explains. ‘Because of its solid expertise, long-standing connections and well-developed critical faculty, the company is able to buy very rare gemstones and to offer its clientele top-quality diamonds at fair prices.’

‘We are looking for top-quality diamonds,’ he continues. ‘[These are] defined by the four Cs: cut, colour, clarity and carat.’ The most important of these will differ depending on the client, he explains, but for Bucherer the cut will always come first, as it’s ‘the only dimension made by human beings’. Though the demand for diamonds is ‘continuously increasing’, says Lanz, the company will never compromise in its quest for perfection.

Bucherer’s expertise and its established

position in the market mean that the brand has access to some of the rarest stones, including fancy colour diamonds. While in white diamonds it’s the absence of colour that determines value, with fancy colour diamonds – those that fall outside the usual colour range – it’s the saturation of their colour that counts.

According to some estimates, only one carat of fancy colour diamonds is mined for every 10,000 carats of white diamonds, making these stones some of the most coveted and expensive in the world.

Each year, Bucherer presents a limited collection of pieces featuring these rare coloured gems. Created in the brand’s workshops on the shores of Lake Lucerne, this year’s exceptional pieces are two highjewellery necklaces featuring fancy yellow pear-cut diamonds. Inspired by traditional St Gallen embroidery, from the Swiss town of the same name, the pieces balance a bold opulence with the sense of fragility evoked by lace. The first necklace embraces tassels; featuring 10 fancy yellow pear-cut diamonds weighing 21.7 carats, it took around 150 hours to create.

Above (clockwise from bottom left): a master craftsman at work on an exceptional piece; a bangle from the Bucherer Diamonds Collection; one of Bucherer’s exceptional pieces, a necklace inspired by traditional Swiss lace and embroidery

56 | F E AT U R E S

The second, which took around 200 hours for Bucherer’s skilled craftsmen to complete, features 12 fancy yellow pear-cut diamonds – weighing 12.1 carats – and is finished with an outstanding 7.02 carat fancy light yellow pear-cut diamond. Worth in the range of half a million euros each, these two pieces are completely unique, and available on request to only the most discerning of clients.

So rare are the gems that one of the most difficult elements of the creation process was sourcing so many diamonds of such quality in matching colours. Only a brand with a standing such as Bucherer’s could have hoped to obtain such rarities.

Whether you’re looking for an exceptional creation, the perfect piece for a special occasion or recipient, or simply a beautiful addition to your everyday wardrobe, you can’t go wrong with the Bucherer Diamonds Collection.

As Lanz says, ‘We only accept the highest standard and do not make any compromises.’

Above (clockwise from top): a master craftsman’s workstation as he creates an exceptional piece; one of these pieces, featuring fancy coloured diamonds; earrings from the Bucherer Diamonds Collection

Fink Exclusiv BurgstraĂ&#x;e 6-8 • 65183 Wiesbaden

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65843 Sulzbach/Taunus E-Mail: info@klauser-schuhe.de Telefon: +49 (0) 202 / 551190

58 | E X P E R I E N C E

STAY IN STYLE

PHOTO: SIMON BROWN

The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

THE KENSINGTON The recently renovated Kensington hotel gives travellers a chance to experience elegant London living in a peaceful location close to some of the city’s finest cultural attractions, such as the Victoria and Albert Museum, and the Serpentine Gallery in Hyde Park.

Occupying four attractive white stucco houses, the hotel has a total of 126 rooms and 24 suites.

Each room is individually decorated in a style globalblue.com

that seamlessly combines contemporary design elements with the building’s period features. As for food and drink, the hotel’s refined Town House restaurant offers modern English cuisine with an emphasis on seasonal local produce, while K Bar is the ideal spot in which to savour a cocktail or late-night drink.

The Kensington, 109-113 Queen’s Gate, London SW7 5LR, +44 (0)20 7589 6300, doylecollection.com

PHOTO: YOANN STOECKEL

S H O P | 59

HÔTEL DES GALERIES Located on the corner of the 19th-century Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, the Hôtel des Galeries’ historic façade hides a thoroughly contemporary interior that showcases the country’s design talents. Each of the 23 uncluttered rooms and suites is furnished with an eclectic mix of modern pieces such as ceramic night tables by Camille Flammarion and wall lights from Belgian brand Zangra,

along with antiques from shops in Brussels’ Sablon area. The three suites are on two levels, with one accessible via a private footbridge, and make a feature of the building’s original wood-beamed ceiling. The Comptoir des Galeries restaurant offers simple yet intricately presented dishes, such as Iberian pork served with Liège syrup.

Hôtel des Galeries, 38 rue des Bouchers, 1000 Brussels, +32 (0)2 213 7470, hoteldesgaleries.be

®

The worldwide known specialist for traditional German Christmas decorations and unique handmade gifts.

®

In 7 major tourist locations in Germany, always in the city center

The Christmas Shopping Experience Berlin · Kurfürstendamm 225/226

E

· worldwide shipping · · TAX FREE · Shopping from home visit our online-shop:

www.wohlfahrt.com

xperience in our year-round stores the love for traditions and beauty.

Discover throughout the year the largest selection of traditional German Christmas decorations like nutcrackers, Christmas pyramids, incense smokers, music boxes, light arches, Christmas tree ornaments made of glass, wood and pewter and much more in an enchanting atmosphere.

W

e also carry in our stores a large variety of German souvenirs, cuckoo clocks and

exclusive products from world-famous German brands as well as the lovely and handmade products from our own artist workshop, the “Rothenburger Weihnachtswerkstatt”.

D

on’t miss a visit to one of our stores in Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Nuremberg, Oberammergau, Heidelberg, Bamberg, Miltenberg or Rüdesheim.

We are looking forward to your visit!

PHOTO: VICENT MARI

61 | E X P E R I E N C E

ONLY YOU HOTEL ATOCHA

PHOTO: EXCELSIOR HOTEL GALLIA MILAN

Set in a beautiful 19th-century building within easy reach of Madrid’s main sights, including the Prado museum, Only You Hotel Atocha provides an immaculately designed base for those keen to make the most of their stay in the Spanish capital. Opened in spring 2016, the hotel has 206 soundproofed rooms decorated in

an airy contemporary style – think bare brick feature walls, pale wood furniture and a low-key colour scheme – and are equipped with free Wi-Fi, a flatscreen TV and rainfall shower.

Enjoy the view from the rooftop terrace, relax over a snack in the lobby lounge, or hit the gym with the in-house personal trainer.

Only You Hotel Atocha, Paseo de la Infanta Isabel 13, 28014 Madrid, +34 91 005 2746, onlyyouhotels.com

EXCELSIOR HOTEL GALLIA Milan’s Excelsior Hotel Gallia has reopened after extensive renovations. A new wing complements the existing belle époque-style building, and the striking overall design references Milanese culture and art deco while incorporating many original features. There are 235 rooms and suites, including the Katara globalblue.com

suite, which has two terraces, four bedrooms and its own private spa. The Executive suites, inspired by Milanese lofts, promise a more modest but no less elegant stay. Enjoy an expertly made cocktail at the rooftop Terrazza Gallia bar and restaurant, and relax in the Shiseido Spa, the Japanese brand’s first in Italy.

Excelsior Hotel Gallia, Piazza Duca d’Aosta 9, 20124 Milan, +39 02 67851, excelsiorhotelgallia.com

LEADING WOMENSWEAR BRANDS AND COLLECTIONS FRANKFURT/MAIN ZEIL 100 MONDAY THROUGH THURSDAY 10 AM - 8 PM FRIDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 10 AM - 9 PM SULZBACH/TAUNUS MAIN-TAUNUS-ZENTRUM MONDAY THROUGH WEDNESDAY 9.30 AM - 8 PM THURSDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 9.30 AM - 10 PM

G U I D E | 63

GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Frankfurt with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a stylish apartment where everything is for sale to a heritage German bedding store. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/frankfurt.

PHOTO: DONTWORRY CC-BY-SA-3.0

A Glimpse of Frankfurt

SHOP, the world’s leading travel and shopping guide, wants to learn more about you, our readers.

To tell us more about yourself, and have the chance to win an iPad Pro, visit globalblue.com/shopsurvey, or scan the QR code.

Above: the statue of the goddess Justitia in the middle of the Römerberg is one of the city’s best-known landmarks

64 | G U I D E

FRANKFURT SHOP HIGHLIGHTS

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Bucherer Discover Bucherer’s exquisite fine jewellery, especially its exceptional diamond collections.

Bucherer, Kaiserstrasse 1, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 138820, bucherer.com

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Torreto Barbershop At Frankfurt’s hip Torreto Barbershop, gentlemen can enjoy a wonderfully old-fashioned shave, as well as a haircut.

Torreto Barbershop, Alte Gasse 38, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2609 0261, torreto-barbershop.de

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Interconti Hotel Le Meridien Savoy Hotel

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Robbe & Berking Kit out your home with Robbe & Berking’s beautiful silverware, which is made in Germany.

Robbe & Berking, Steinweg 8, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 296952, robbeberking.com

Train Station

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FEATURED ON PAGE 48

Hugo Boss Check out the eye-catching Boss Bespoke handbag, which is sure to be one of the must-have accessories this winter.

Boss, Börsenstrasse 1, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2972 38590, hugoboss.com

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globalblue.com

LOKALBAHNHOF

66 | G U I D E

BETTENRID

PHOTO: ROMAN THOMAS

Those looking for everything for the perfect night’s sleep should head to Bettenrid, which celebrates its 100th anniversary this year.

The company was founded in 1916 in Munich, and originally specialised in cleaning and restoring beds and bedsprings, but soon expanded into selling mattresses and bedlinen. The company now has two stores in Munich and one in Frankfurt.

People spend around a third of their life in bed, and Bettenrid’s highly professional consultants are committed to finding their customers the right bed and bedding.

Bettenrid, Kaiserstrasse 9, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)89 211010, bettenrid.de

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S H O P | 67

LEGO

PHOTO: ARGUM

The Frankfurt Lego store allows fans of all ages to enjoy the creative and engaging world of Lego to full effect. The store is equipped with special building tables where visitors, both young and old, can get to work on their own constructions. There is also a Pick a Brick Wall, where you can choose the bricks and elements you want from a huge range of different shapes and colours. Dedicated fans will also want to sign up to the Lego VIP Programme for exclusive news, offers and invitations from the brand.

Lego, MyZeil, Zeil 106, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2097 7699, lego.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 68

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68 | G U I D E

Zeil, Neue Kräme, Hasengasse & Braubachstrasse SELECTED STORES IN MYZEIL: Accessorize Adidas Neo Anlissa Anson’s Bathelt Bench Bijou Brigitte Bose Comma Crocs Ecco Elleez El Rayyan

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Run² Runners Point S Oliver Sacha Saturn Scout 4 You Sidestep Skagen Superdry The North Face The Sting Vero Moda Vodafone WMF Xenos

GROSSE FRIEDB ERGER STR A SS E

G-Star G-Star Raw Gabor Gant Intertoys Gravis Guess Hollister Immergrün Intertoys Kult Lego P.67 Le Petit - Palais Lloyd Lush

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INTIMISSIMI ● CALZEDONIA ● YVES ROCHER ● TEZENIS ● ZARA ● JUWELIER KRÄMER ● PIMKIE ●

JUWELIER AppelrathCüpper ● PLETZSCH ● OÜ STORE DOUGLAS ● ● FOOT LOCKER MANGO ● ● H&M PROMOD ● ● SUNGLASS HUT ● ADIDAS MyZeil ● NEW YORKER BERSHKA ● ● DEICHMANN SKAGEN ● CLAIRE'S ● HIRSCH SWAROVSKI ● ● APOTHEKE ● SALAMANDER ● TOM TAILOR STEFANEL ● ● SAMSUNG ● ESPRIT Galeria Kaufof ● FOSSIL ● SWATCH

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Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

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70 | G U I D E

TOP 3 ... CONCEPT STORES Designe Kleine It’s almost impossible to come away empty handed from this quirky store, which sells homeware and accessories from up-andcoming designers.

Designe Kleine, Wallstrasse 26, 60594 Frankfurt, +49 (0)177 451 6824, designe-kleine.de The Listener The Listener focuses on high-quality products that are made to last. This includes, among other things, clothing, footwear, cosmetics, accessories and even bicycles.

The Listener, Stephanstrasse 3, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2100 8000, thelistener.de

2nd Home This distinctive and memorable store is housed in an old apartment, and everything you see, from the lamps to the clothes hanging in the wardrobe, is for sale.

2nd Home, Vogelsbergstrasse 38, 60316 Frankfurt, +49 (0) 69 4056 4842, 2nd-home.net

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 68

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Welcome to Pletzsch, one of Germany`s most traditional jewelers.

We look forward to your visit!

Mrs. Tao is glad to be at your disposal at any time.

You will fnd an overwhelming selection of luxury watch brands and exquisite jewellery.

Constellation

Frankfurt / Zeil 81 – Tel. +4969281655 www.pletzsch.de

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S H O P | 73

JIL SANDER

Jil Sander is renowned as a luxury brand at the forefront of minimalist design, and the label’s striking clothing and accessories are instantly recognisable the world over. This beautifully crafted handbag is no exception.

Stylish and practical, it comes in a timeless shade of deep green and has a striking dual zip which is both functional and integral to the design. The bag is available in various classic tones and its clean, simple shape makes it the perfect addition to any wardrobe. The German fashion house opened its first shop in Hamburg in 1968 and since then has established retail outlets in major cities, from London to New York and Paris.

Jil Sander, Goethestrasse 23, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9202 0992, jilsander.com

Goethestrasse & Steinweg FS TR AS SE

OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sundays and public holidays: closed For special opening times please visit the website

74 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP WERTHEIM VILLAGE Wertheim Village, just 50 minutes from Frankfurt city centre, is perfectly located for locals and international visitors alike. The Village’s design reflects its tranquil surroundings, with traditional scallop-tiled

roofing and turrets that echo nearby vineyard-clad hills and local villages. The Village plays host to more than 110 designer boutiques from both German and international labels, all of which offer up to 60%

savings on normal retail prices.

Wertheim Village, Almosenberg, 97887 Wertheim, +49 (0)9342 919 9100, wertheimvillage.com, chicoutletshopping.com

FRANKFURT FRANKFURT CENTRAL STATION A3

A3

A3 Wertheim Village WERTHEIM TOWN STATION

HOW TO GET THERE

By Car From Frankfurt head to Würzberg on the A3. Take exit 66 signposted Wertheim/ Lengfurt. The drive takes approximately 50 minutes from Frankfurt city centre.

Train Station

Outlet Village

By Train Regular trains run to Wertheim town from Frankfurt’s central station, Nuremberg and Würzberg.

Then take the free shuttle bus to Wertheim Village from Monday to Saturday. Collect your ticket from the tourist information office in Wertheim town.

By Shopping Express® The Shopping Express ® luxury coach service takes visitors from Frankfurt to Wertheim Village and back, departing from the city’s main train station, 20B, bus stops 7-9, from Monday to Saturday. For further information and to book, visit chicoutletshopping.com.

S H O P | 75

MY PERFECT DAY XIMENA DANERI, SHOP’S FASHION EDITOR, DESCRIBES HER PERFECT DAY AT WERTHEIM VILLAGE 10am Start your day at German label Drykorn. The brand is known for setting the trends; expect bright colours, bold prints and a finish of the highest quality.

11am Lagerfeld’s boutique offers the complete ready-towear men’s collection and range of accessories, all infused with Karl Lagerfeld’s signature style.

DON’T MISS… FIVE-STAR SERVICES

1pm Stop for lunch at Prime.

The restaurant offers a range of high-quality dishes including burgers, fresh salads and daily specials, served in an urban-chic environment.

The village offers a range of VIP services including:

Wi-Fi • Free parking • Free personal shopper (on request) • ATourist information • A children’s playground •

SHOPPING PACKAGES Various packages are available at the Village. Packages can be booked via the Village’s website and services can include:

Return tickets from central Frankfurt to the Village on the •Shopping Express® luxury coach A €25 Wertheim Village Shopping Card to be spent at a •boutique of your choice at the Village exclusive gift • An • Lunch with small soft drink at La Piazza restaurant at the Village globalblue.com

3pm Steiff’s trademark ear button makes its high-quality teddy bears instantly recognisable. The range also includes dogs, cats and pigs.

6pm End your day by admiring the craftsmanship displayed in Bally’s exquisite leather goods collection.

Pieces offer the highest quality as well as contemporary styling.

76 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP OUTLETCITY METZINGEN Outletcity Metzingen is one of Europe’s most popular outlet centres. With over 70 top international brands available at reductions of up to 70%, the stylish centre attracts 3.5 million visitors per year.

Outletcity Metzingen, Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen, +49 (0)7123 925326, outletcity.com

OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Saturday: 9am-8pm (Hugo Boss: 8am-8pm)

PERFECT DAY 10am Start your day perusing the sportswear collection on offer at Peak Performance; the label is known for combining functionality and style.

FRANKFURT A5

A5

12pm Take a break at the Keim bakery to enjoy coffee and cake or a freshly made sandwich.

2pm Hugo Boss collections strike the perfect balance between fashion and function.

4pm Diane von Furstenberg produces pieces that radiate elegance – the printed wrap dress is a wardrobe classic.

6pm End your trip at Samsonite. This esteemed luggage manufacturer is known for top-quality, durable and surprisingly lightweight suitcases.

Outlet Village

A5

A8

STUTTGART A8

Outletcity Metzingen

HOW TO GET THERE

By Car Enter Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen on your satellite navigation system. Take the A5 out of Frankfurt before joining the A8 to Metzingen. Take the exit toward Metzingen (B312) and take the L378A to Reutlinger Strasse. Outletcity Metzingen is clearly signposted when you arrive in the town.

S H O P | 77

DAY TRIP ZWEIBRÜCKEN THE STYLE OUTLETS Zweibrücken The Style Outlets is Germany’s largest outlet centre, with over 130 brands available at discounts of up to 70%. With free Wi-Fi, free parking and delicious restaurants and cafés, it’s the perfect place for a day trip.

Zweibrücken The Style Outlets, Londoner Bogen 10-90, 66842 Zweibrücken, +49 (0)6332 99390, thestyleoutlets.com

FRANKFURT A8 A8

A8 A8

Zweibrücken The Style Outlets

A8

HOW TO GET THERE

By Train Trains run from Saarbrücken to Zweibrücken station. Visitors can then catch a bus to The Style Outlets.

By Bus Buses run from Zweibrücken to The Style Outlets every hour from Monday to Saturday.

By Car From Frankfurt, take the A8 motorway and then exit 34, which is signposted to the airport. The journey takes around 90 minutes.

globalblue.com

OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-7pm Sundays and public holidays: closed

PERFECT DAY 10am Admire the high quality and sophisticated craftsmanship displayed by Italian label Cerruti.

12pm Enjoy a traditional German meal at La Place restaurant.

2pm Petit Bateau’s childrenswear collections are sure to brighten up your afternoon with their whimsical designs and youthful take on French fashion.

3pm Villeroy & Boch is the perfect place to visit if you’re seeking elegant homeware.

Opt for the Classica range for timeless tableware.

5pm End your day at footwear boutique Peter Kaiser. Expect a diverse collection that includes fine materials such as high-quality leather, soft suede and the most prestigious fabrics.

78

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

2. Claim

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.

Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Ofce Details

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

Frankfurt Airport: Terminal 1, Level 2, Hall B, Landside Terminal 1, Level 2, Hall B, afer security control Terminal 2, Level 3, Hall D, Landside Terminal 2, Level 3, Hall D, afer security control Terminal 2, Level 3, Hall A, afer security control

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PHOTO: © GLASHÜTTER UHRENBETRIEB GMBH/RENÉ GAENS

TRANSLATIONS

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 42: A Matter Of Time

Вопрос времени

Стивен Дойг рассказывает о самых интересных немецких марках часов Распространенное убеждение, будто создать безупречные часы можно только в Швейцарии, постепенно развеивается. Покупатели с интересом смотрят на происходящее за пределами Женевы и Юры – и обнаруживают, что мастерство мирового уровня можно найти где угодно. За прошедшее десятилетие в часовом деле о себе уверенно заявила Великобритания, да и Скандинавия применяет свою чистую и минималистскую эстетику к часам. Однако именно в Германии, в непосредственной близости от великих швейцарских брендов, производители часов в последнее время занимают все более заметное положение. Передовые инженерные технологии и использование аналитических методик давно стали основополагающими globalblue.com

характеристиками немецкого дизайна. Этот практичный подход занял центральное место и в часовом деле. «У Германии сильные позиции в этой сфере, тем более именно здесь были основаны очень важные для индустрии бренды», – размышляет Тим Барбер, главный редактор издания о роскошных часах Telegraph Time. В Швейцарии предпосылкой к зарождению часовой индустрии стало активное использование сельскохозяйственной техники в горах. Аналогичным образом саксонский город Гласхютте, где процветало инженерное дело и мануфактура, стал центром притяжения и развития часовой индустрии в Германии. Дух новаторства и мастерства со всей ясностью проступает в часах марки Glashütte Original. Компания была основана в 1845 году и называлась тогда Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe, а спустя совсем немного времени зарекомендовала себя в качестве эксперта в часовом мастерстве. В 1960-е бренд выпустил классическую модель Spezimatic, которая оказалась очень резонансной благодаря своему ясному, почти минималистскому дизайну на фоне преобладавшей тогда демонстративности.В этом году бренд обратился к собственным ретро-моделям в серии Sixties Iconic, создав классические часы с покрытыми лаком циферблатами насыщенных оттенков. Кроме того, в этом году бренд Glashütte Original торжественно представил несколько экземпляров на международной выставке часов и украшений Baselworld. В числе новинок – Senator Excellence: эти сдержанно солидные часы снабжены классическим циферблатом и корпусом из белого золота и серебра. И это еще раз подтверждает, что марка Glashütte Original будет интересна как поклонникам текущих трендов, так и ценителям традиций и винтажного стиля.

Glashütte Original – далеко не единственный бренд родом из Гласхютте: здесь же в 1845 году Фердинанд Адольф Ланге основал компанию A Lange & Sohne,

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которая в наши дни славится бережным отношением к традициям и своей классической серией часов. Характерная лаконичная эстетика распространилась даже на названия: модели этой марки называются просто Lange 1, Lange 2 и так далее. Несмотря на продолжительную историю и большой опыт, бренд A Lange & Sohne всегда идет в ногу со временем. Примером может послужить недавняя презентация цифровых часов Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. В наши дни у каждого большого бренда есть такая разработка в коллекции, но A Lange & Sohne создал нечто особенное. Его часы оснащены и цифровым дисплеем, и классическим механизмом, созданным в лучших традициях мастерства, присущего этому бренду – лучшему в обеих сферах. Если Glashütte Original и A Lange & Sohne развивают четыре или пять базовых моделей, то Perigaum 1972 выглядит полной противоположностью и благодаря этому доступен более широкой аудитории. На фоне других часовых брендов Perigaum 1972 сравнительно молод: он бы основан в 2001 году группой мастеров, которым было интересно работать над новыми и современными разработками. Источником вдохновения для них послужило знаменитое высказывание астронавта Нила Армстронга, когда он впервые ступил на Луну в 1969 году, и теперь часы для пилотирования и дайвинга буквально пронизывает дух приключений. Такие разработки, как модель Lumberjack, смотрятся надежно и мужественно, что составляет привлекательный контраст актуальным трендам на грациозность, царящим в часовой индустрии. Все эти технические новшества, внимание к деталям и смелость в дизайне (которыми гордятся и швейцарские бренды) подтверждают, что Германия в часовой индустрии – это особая сила, которой еще только предстоит раскрыться. У Швейцарии, безусловно, есть преимущество в традициях и безупречной репутации. Но и немецкие передовые бренды не уступают, а значит это только вопрос времени.

48: Under The Lens

В объективе

Франкфуртский фотограф Хорст Фридрихс провел Джошу Симсу экскурсию по городу, рассказывая о лучших малоизвестных местах для стильных мужчин Если вы загляните в кофейню Hoppenworth & Ploch на Friedberger Landstrasse, то скорее всего сможете застать там Хорста Фридрихса. Родившийся во Франкфурте и ныне живущий в Лондоне фотографдокументалист работает над новой книгой о культуре кофе. «Участие в кофейном фестивале со сверкающими машинами и стильными барменами – это путешествие в особенный мир», говорит он. Фотография – это призвание Фридриха. Его многочисленные альбомы включают снимки из жизни самых разных культур: от пакистанских суфиев и пустынных жителей Венесуэлы до молодежи из Маргейта и джинсовых фанатов. «У меня всегда была склонность к этнографии, – говорит он. – Я вырос во Франкфурте и он всегда ассоциировался у меня с английскими панками и ямайским регги. Изучение субкультур всегда представляло для меня большую ценность, ведь мы так мало о них знаем, но при этом они многому могут нас научить. Все это начинается на улице и затем становится мейнстримом. Мы все заимствуем у субкультур». Стоит лишь взглянуть на его родной город под другим углом и можно убедиться, что эта теория не далека от истины. Например, во времена молодости фотографа Франкфурт был центром техно-культуры («Хотя меня никогда не привлекал этот стиль, особенно ботинки на огромных платформах», – замечает он). Но сейчас после серьезной джентрификации, ставшей возможной благодаря тому, что Франкфурт был важным финансовым центром, главной субкультурой города можно считать сообщество банкиров, которые имеют свой отличительный стиль и привычки.

Goethestrasse с ее рядами роскошных бутиков – очередное тому свидетельство.

В то же время Франкфурт до сих пор сохранил некоторые субкультурные течения. Фридрихс приводит в пример Stilblüten Festival für Mode und Design – ежегодную выставку молодых дизайнеров, основанную его сестрой Стеллой Фридрихс в 2005 году, а также ряд небольших независимых магазинов одежды, предлагающих «традиционную мужскую одежду», которую так ценят в Германии. «Этот образ, включающий грубую спецодежду, селвиджденим, ботинки и американский стиль, здесь особенно популярен, потому что немцы ценят качественные вещи и носят такую одежду независимо от возраста. Это практичная классика». Для тех, кому хотелось бы сделать инвестицию в свой гардероб, найдутся такие магазины, как Listener на Stephanstrasse, Red Wing Shoes на Kornmarkt, Sør на Kaiserstrasse и Manufactum на Bockenheimer Anlage (в последнем представлена не только одежда, но и много других товаров, ориентированных на качество). Когда Фридрихс бывает в городе, он не упускает возможность посетить местную парикмахерскую Torreto Barbershop на Alte Gasse, чтобы заказать очередную брутальную прическу. «Центральное географическое положение дало Германии возможность накапливать различные идеи, но как и в случае с Японией, немцам лучше удается копировать и совершенствовать нечто, нежели создавать свое, – продолжает он. – Вы можете обнаружить идеальные примеры конкретных субкультур, которые прекрасно смотрятся, но, возможно, им не хватает истинного духа. Для этого нужно обратиться к истокам». Другими словами, чтобы проникнуть в реальную суть города, необходимо сойти с проторенной тропы и отправиться в менее глянцевые и более авангардные кварталы. Фридрихс рекомендует франкфуртский музейный район, его суетливый вокзал и особенно некогда запретный район Bahnhofsviertel. По пути вы можете встретить такие жемчужины, как B74 Selected Goods на Berliner Strasse, globalblue.com

PHOTO: DAFLIPPI CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

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крытый рынок Kleinmarkthalle с более чем 60 палатками и Phoenix Tea на Friedberger Landstrasse или бар Walon & Rosetti на Moselstrasse, где можно восстановить силы. «Я часто приезжаю во Франкфурт, чтобы повидаться с семьей и просто отдохнуть. И хотя Франкфурт может показаться похожим на остальные богатые города, дайте ему шанс и он подарит вам немало приятных сюрпризов, – говорит фотограф. – Лично я всегда беру с собой фотоаппарат».

52: Dazzling Success

Ослепительный успех Уже более века Bucherer остается одним из ведущих экспертов по бриллиантам в мире. Ханна Льюис рассказывает о самых впечатляющих коллекциях ювелирного дома Компания Bucherer была основана в 1888 году как небольшое семейное предприятие. За прошедший век она превратилась в один из ведущих часовых и ювелирных домов в мире, которым управляет представитель

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уже третьего поколения династии Йорг Бушерер. За столько лет бренд поработал со множеством стилей и технологий. Однако есть и такая страсть, которая пронизывает всю его историю, – бриллианты. Десятилетиями Bucherer взращивал свои компетенции в этой сфере, начиная с отбора лучших камней и до привлечения самых квалифицированных мастеров, которые умеют превращать алмазы в прекрасные украшения. Сейчас Bucherer – один из главных мировых экспертов по украшениям с бриллиантами. «Несомненно, бриллиант – это самая яркая звезда на небосклоне драгоценных камней... Его магическое сияние открывает путь к выражению эмоции в ее чистейшем виде», – утверждает главный закупщик алмазов Bucherer Тобиас Ланц. Он пришел в компанию 20 лет назад на должность ювелира и постепенно вырос до своей специализации: «Меня всегда завораживали бриллианты и другие драгоценные камни», – подчеркивает он. Бриллиантами занимается огромная команда, в которую входят закупщики, геммологи, ювелиры и огранщики, и каждый участник этого сложного процесса разделяет неподдельный интерес к камням и преданность профессиональному мастерству. Это в полной мере проявилось в коллекции Diamonds Collection, которую Bucherer называет «выражением чистой страсти».

Diamonds Collection объединяет большую серию изысканных вещей: в ней есть и повседневные украшения (например, грациозный браслет или серьги-пуссеты), и восхитительные гарнитуры для особых случаев. Команда Bucherer аккумулирует всю свою любовь к драгоценным камням и вкладывает ее в великолепные украшения для любого случая. Узнаваемый стиль бренда вдохновлен природными формами и воплощается в элегантных, женственных и совершенных произведениях. Для них характерна непреходящая классичность в подаче бриллиантов и обрамляющих их драгоценных металлов, и в то же время полная созвучность современности. В основе этого процесса лежит

неподражаемое качество исходных алмазов.

Bucherer – один из самых значительных в мире экспертов по подбору камней. С точки зрения Ланца, причины этого очевидны: «Ассортимент бриллиантовых украшений Bucherer один из самых широких в Европе. Благодаря огромному опыту, прочным и давним связям и развитому критическому мышлению компания способна находить и приобретать очень редкие камни и предлагать своим клиентам высококачественные бриллианты по разумной цене. Мы стремимся выявлять самые качественные камни. А это определяется по четырем параметрам: огранка, цвет, чистота и каратность». По его словам, приоритеты расставляются в зависимости от пожеланий клиента. И все же для Bucherer первостепенное значение всегда играет огранка, поскольку это «единственное свойство бриллианта, к которому причастен человек». По утверждению эксперта, спрос на камни «устойчиво растет», тем не менее, компания никогда не пойдет на компромисс в своем стремлении к совершенству. Высокая квалификация и прочные позиции на рынке открывают Bucherer доступ к редчайшим камням, включая алмазы необычных цветов. Если ценность белых камней определяет как раз отсутствие цвета, то в случае с цветными – важна насыщенность оттенка. По некоторым оценкам, на 10 000 карат белого алмаза приходится всего один карат цветного. Неудивительно, что эти камни самые желанные и дорогие в мире. Каждый год в мастерских Bucherer на берегах озера Люцерн рождается лимитированная коллекция украшений, в которых блистают столь редкие драгоценности. В этом году такими произведениями ювелирного искусства стали два ожерелья с желтыми бриллиантами грушевидной огранки. Они созданы по мотивам узоров санктгалленской вышивки, которая называется так в честь швейцарского города СанктГаллен, и изящно сочетают пышное богатство и кружевную хрупкость. Одно из

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ожерелий украшено кисточками: 10 желтых бриллиантов грушевидной гранки весят 21,7 карат, а работа над этим украшением заняла около 150 часов. Второе ожерелье мастера создавали около 200 часов, в нем 12 желтых бриллиантов грушевидной огранки весом 12,1 карат, а венчает композицию выдающийся светло-желтый камень в 7,02 карата. Каждое из этих украшений оценивается в полмиллиона евро, они действительно единственные в своем роде и доступны по предварительному запросу и только тем, кто по-настоящему понимает их значительность. Эти камни настолько редки, что главной сложностью творческого процесса стал поиск одинаково качественных камней совпадающих оттенков. И только бренд с репутацией Bucherer может позволить себе приобрести подобные раритеты. Истинное произведение ювелирного искусства, идеальный подарок к особому случаю или для особого человека, просто красивое украшение к повседневному гардеробу – чего бы вы ни пожелали, решение найдется в коллекции Bucherer Diamonds Collection. Как говорит Тобиас Ланц: «Мы признаем только высочайший уровень и не идем ни на какие компромиссы».

78: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. globalblue.com

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

美文翻译 42: A Matter Of Time 时间的奥秘 德国各大腕表品牌不乏奢华之作和创新优 品，Stephen Doig带您探索德国时计世界的奥秘 人们通常认为，瑞士的腕表设计举世无双，而近年 来我们渐渐听到了一些不同的声音。今天的顾客开始 将目光投向日内瓦和汝拉山之外，他们意识到在其他 地方也能发现世界级的腕表工艺。在过去的十年中， 英国在时计的世界悄然崛起，而北欧人将干净的线 条和极简主义美学运用到了腕表设计当中。与此同 时，在瑞士邻国的钟表匠们也逐渐崭露头角，以顶尖 的腕表设计跻身于时计大国行列。先进的工程技术 和出色的分析能力一直是“德国设计”的过人之处，这 些实用主义的品质在腕表的设计和创新中同样至关 重要。 “德国在腕表界占有举足轻重的地位，在历史上 德国人曾创立过许多重要的腕表品牌， ”奢侈腕表刊 物Telegraph Time主编Tim Barber介绍道。在瑞 士，阿尔卑斯山区的耕地机械为该国腕表行业打下 了坚实的基础。同样地，德国的格拉苏蒂区 （Glashütte）拥有悠久的工业和制造历史，也是德 国腕表业发展的重镇。 格拉苏蒂原创（Glashütte Original）完美地诠 释了何谓“匠心独运”。品牌的原名为Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe，1845年创立后一举成为高级腕表 的标杆。上世纪六十年代，该品牌推出了经典的 Spezimatic款式，凭借其干练的简约主义设计，在那 个张扬个性的时代风靡一时。今年，该品牌推出 Sixties Iconic六零年代标志系列，流光溢彩的经典

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表盘上饰有清漆，致敬往昔鎏金岁月。在今年的巴塞 尔国际钟表珠宝展上，格拉苏蒂原创推出多款旷世 之作，其中包括Senator Excellence议员卓越系列。 低调优雅的腕表以经典表盘搭配白金或银质表壳， 再一次证明了格拉苏蒂原创的非凡魅力：无论是时 尚前卫的顾客，还是迷恋复古风和经典款式的买家， 都能在此找到心仪的作品。 格拉苏蒂原创并不是唯一一个从格拉苏蒂区走 出来的品牌，此地还见证了腕表专家朗格（A Lange & Sohne）的诞生。这个历史悠久的品牌由 Ferdinand Adolph Lange于1845年创立，以传统 的设计理念和经典的腕表系列而享誉全球。该品牌 腕表以简单的Lange 1、Lange 2等命名，与其标志 性的简约设计相映成趣。尽管历史源远流长，该品牌 亦紧跟潮流，近年更发布了Zeitwerk Minute Repeater电子腕表。眼下每个奢侈品牌都推出了自 家的电子时计，而朗格的这款卓越不凡的腕表不仅 拥有电子显示屏，亦秉承了品牌的传统工艺，搭载机 械机芯，堪称完美之作。 相比动不动就开出四位数乃至五位数天价的格 拉苏蒂原创和朗格，德国品牌Perigaum 1972宛如 一缕清风，吹向更多顾客。作为腕表界名副其实的后 起之秀，该品牌由一班钟表匠于2001年创立，致力 于打造酷炫前卫的现代时计。品牌从尼尔·阿姆斯特 朗（Neil Armstrong）1969年登上月球时说的那句 著名格言中获取灵感，飞行表和潜水表都充满冒险 色彩。Lumberjack等款式散发出坚毅阳刚的气息， 和腕表界当下流行的秀丽风格形成鲜明对比。 这些德国腕表品牌凭借其精湛技术、完美细节 和大胆设计引领风骚，与瑞士腕表品牌不相上下，无 不证明德国在腕表界的地位不可小觑。就目前而言， 瑞士品牌可能拥有更久的历史和更响亮的名气，但 德国阵营的诸多创新品牌同样值得您拭目以待 （戴）。

48: Under The Lens 镜头之下 出生于法兰克福的摄影师Horst Friedrichs带着 Josh Sims参观自己的家乡，与时尚男士分享不为人 知的必访之地 如果您路过Friedberger Landstrasse大街上的 Hoppenworth & Ploch咖啡馆，很有可能会碰见 Horst Friedrichs。这位法兰克福出生、目前在伦敦 工作的纪实摄影师正在准备一本有关咖啡的新 书——不过这本书主要讲的是文化，而不是咖啡本 身。 “咖啡节上随处可见闪闪发亮的机器和新潮的咖 啡师，仿佛进入了一个神奇的世界， ”他说道。 这就是Friedrichs的职责。他以摄影集而闻名于

世，致力于用摄影作品对各种各样亚文化展开研 究——从巴基斯坦的苏菲派到马盖特（Margate） 潮人，从委内瑞拉的沙漠部落到丹宁爱好 者——Friedrichs经常关注不为人知却独具影响力 的群体。 “我有一双人类学家的眼睛， ”他表示。 “在法 兰克福长大的我，周围充斥着来自英伦的朋克和来 自牙买加的雷鬼。我一直觉得研究亚文化意义非凡： 人们对它们所知甚少，它们却对人类贡献良多。亚文 化起源于街头，然后成长为商业的主流。亚文化源自 我们的生活。” 透过表象观察他的家乡，就能体会到这个理论 的可信之处。例如，他少年时代的法兰克福是电子音 乐和相关潮流的先锋阵地（“我对那种打扮从不感 冒——大家都穿着阔头阔脑的厚底靴， ”他表示）。如 今的法兰克福已是一大金融中心，随着中产阶级的 不断壮大，城市中最富有生命力的亚文化群可能是 银行从业群体，他们拥有独特的着装风格和习惯。歌 德大街（Goethestrasse）上林立的奢华精品店便是 最好的佐证。 法兰克福也仍然保留着积极向上的部落元 素。Friedrichs列举了Stilblüten Festival für Mode und Design设计节，这个一年一度的盛会是 年轻设计师展示作品的舞台，由他的妹妹Stella Friedrichs于2005年创办；此外，他还列举了众多小 型独立服装店，它们专售德国人最青睐的“传统男 装”。 “耐穿的职业装、织边的牛仔裤、靴子、美式风 格——这样的打扮在这里尤其常见，因为德国人喜 欢穿有品质的服装。无论什么年龄的男性都可以这 样穿搭，既实用又经典。” 想一探究竟的游客可以前往Stephanstrasse大 街的The Listener专卖店、粮食广场 （Kornmarkt）的Red Wing Shoes专卖 店、Kaiserstrasse大街的Sør精品店。除了服装之 外，在Bockenheimer Anlage的Manufactum百货 商店还可以找到许多其他高品质商品。Friedrichs 每次回法兰克福都会腾出时间，专程前往Alte Gasse的Torreto Barbershop理发店剪个合适的发 型。 “德国位于欧洲的中心，善于博采众长，但就像 日本一样，德国更擅长复制和改进，对创作却不在 行， ”他继续说道。 “你会发现有些看上去很棒的亚文 化缺少真正的灵魂。若想深入了解，就不得不追根溯 源。” 换句话说，如果想了解这座城市不为人知的一 面，就得不走寻常路，探访不那么光鲜但更加前卫的 街区。Friedrichs推荐法兰克福的画廊区、热闹非凡 的火车站以及曾经的禁区Bahnhofsviertel。一路 上，各种精品店琳琅满目，您可以看到柏林路 （Berliner Strasse）的B74 Selected Goods精品店 以及Kleinmarkthalle室内市场中的60多家摊位。

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如果想来杯饮料一扫疲惫，不妨前往Friedberger Landstrasse大街的Phoenix Tea茶馆和 Moselstrasse大街的Walon & Rosetti酒吧。 “我经常回法兰克福探望家人，到处走走。法兰 克福虽如今已经是个非常富裕的城市，但每每探索 都会发现这里充满了惊喜， ”他如是说道。 “我总是会 带着相机。”

52: Dazzling Success 成功的光芒 宝嘉尔（Bucherer）在珠宝行业拥有超过一个世纪 的丰富经验，是世界顶尖的钻石品牌之一。 Hannah Lewis带您探索该品牌最闪耀的珠宝系 列 宝嘉尔（Bucherer）创建于1888年，从曾经的小型 家族企业成长为世界顶级腕表和珠宝商之一。该品 牌如今由家族第三代 Jörg G Bucherer掌舵，多年 来创造了大量风格迥异的作品，取得了长足的发 展。对钻石的热爱贯穿了品牌的整个发展历史。世 代相传，宝嘉尔在专业领域不断积累和沉淀，孜孜 不倦地挑选宝石中的极品，聘请技艺精湛的工匠将 这些珍宝缔打造成美丽动人的首饰。今天，该品牌 已经成为世界上首屈一指的钻石珠宝专家。 “钻石是无可争议的宝石之王……魔法般的光 芒表达出最纯粹的情感， ”首席钻石采购员Tobias Lanz如是说道。20年前，他以金匠的身份开始为 宝嘉尔效力，逐渐对钻石有了深入的研究。 “钻石和 宝石总是令我着迷， ”他说道。钻石团队的人员构成 十分多样化——既包括采购员和宝石学家，也包括 金匠和打磨工匠——但我们每个人对钻石都怀有 巨大的热情，每个人都将精益求精作为己任。这一

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切都体现在宝嘉尔的钻石系列中，这个系列被喻 为“纯粹的热情”。 钻石系列荟萃了众多精美绝伦的作品，既有简 单的日常款式——一枚精致的手镯或一对耳 钉——也不乏张扬闪耀、适合特殊场合佩戴的惊艳 之作。宝嘉尔设计团队把对钻石的满腔热情幻化为 适用于任何场所、满足各种顾客需求的作品。优雅、 柔美和精致是品牌标志性的风格，设计师经常从大 自然当中寻找灵感，用珍贵金属衬托璀璨的钻石， 彰显钻石的永恒之美，同时融入现代的审美风格。 钻石的无瑕品质是整个工艺过程的核心。幸运 的是，宝嘉尔堪称甄选钻石的顶级专家，此外更有 Lanz坐镇，监督整个采购流程。 “宝嘉尔坐拥全欧 洲最丰富的钻石珠宝资源， ”他介绍说。 “凭借着过 硬的技术、长久的合作关系和敏锐的鉴赏力，我们 能采购到弥足珍贵的宝石，并以合适的价格将高品 质钻石出售给顾客。” “我们寻求高品质的钻石， ”他继续介绍道。 “这 些钻石是通过以下四大标准界定的：切割、色泽、净 度和克拉数。”哪个标准最重要，每位顾客仁者见 仁；但对于宝嘉尔来说，切割永远是排第一位的，因 为切割是“唯一取决于人工的因素”。尽管钻石的需 求在“持续增加” ，Lanz表示，公司永远不会放弃对 完美的追求。 宝嘉尔的精湛工艺和在珠宝界的重要地位意味 着，品牌能够入手许多旷世之宝，其中包括迷人的 彩色钻石。白钻石越没有杂色价值越高，而对于彩 色钻石——即颜色不同寻常的钻石来说，色泽的饱 和度至关重要。根据估算，每开采1万克拉白钻石， 只能开采出1克拉彩色钻石，因而彩色钻石才是全世 界最令人垂涎、价格最昂贵的宝石。 每年，宝嘉尔都会推出一个由这些珍贵彩色宝 石打造的限量版珠宝系列。今年最独特的是两款高

‫‪87‬‬

‫ٍ‬ ‫ماسات صفراء‬ ‫شابات مؤلّفة من عش‬ ‫أخرى‪ .‬تض ّم القلدة الول ّ‬

‫فاخرة بقطعٍ كمثي‪ ،‬تزن ‪ 21.7‬قياطا ً وقد استغرقت حوال ‪150‬‬

‫ساعة لصنعها‪.‬‬

‫أ ّما القلدة الثانية التي استغرقت حرفيّي ‪Bucherer‬‬ ‫الاهرين ما يقارب الئتي ساعة لنجازها‪ ،‬فتض ّم ‪ 12‬حجر ٍ‬ ‫ماس‬ ‫أصفر فاخر كمثي القطع‪ ،‬تزن ‪ 12.1‬قياطاً وتزيّنها ماسة فاخرة‬ ‫ذات لونٍ أصفر باهت كمثيّة القطع وتزن ‪ 7.02‬قياطاً‪.‬‬

‫كل قلدة بحوال النصف مليون يورو وهي فريدة‬ ‫يُقدّر سعر ّ‬ ‫من نوعها تاماً وتتوافر عند الطلب للزبائن الضليعي ل غي‪.‬‬ ‫تجدر الشارة إل أ ّن هذه الاسات نادرة للغاية بحيث شكّل جمع‬ ‫الكثي منها بهذه الجودة واللوان التطابقة‪ ،‬إحدى أصعب مراحل‬ ‫ابتكارها عل الطلق‪ .‬وما كان إل لعلمة بثابة ‪ Bucherer‬أن‬ ‫تطمح بالحصول عل هكذا قطعٍ نادرة‪.‬‬ ‫إن ِ‬ ‫كنت تبحثي عن تصميمٍ استثنائ أو قطعة مثاليّة‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫بكل بساط ٍة‬ ‫لشخص عزيز عل القلب أو ترغبي ّ‬ ‫لناسبة مميّزة أو‬ ‫كل يوم‪ ،‬لن يخيب ظ ّنك ف مجموعة‬ ‫بحلية جديدة تتزيّني بها ّ‬ ‫‪ Diamonds Collection‬من ‪ .Bucherer‬عل ح ّد قول‬ ‫بأي مساومة‪”.‬‬ ‫‪“ :Lanz‬ل نقبل إل أعل العايي ول نقوم ّ‬ ‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 78‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من‬ ‫‪ 300,000‬متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬ ‫كل سنة” ما‬ ‫دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫الخا“‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة‬ ‫الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫مكاتب الستداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪111 111 232 +421‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ €25‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14.5%‬من ثن مشتياتك‪.‬‬

‫يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة‬ ‫عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬ف بعض الطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض‬ ‫رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت‬ ‫بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫‪级珠宝项链，其上镶有梨形切割的黄钻石，由品牌‬‬ ‫‪设于琉森湖边的工作室创作。作品的灵感来源于瑞‬‬ ‫‪士圣加仑（St Gallen）的传统圣加仑刺绣，钻石饱‬‬ ‫‪和的色彩与项链本身的脆弱之美相得益彰。第一款‬‬ ‫‪项链带有流苏；10枚梨形切割彩黄色钻石重21.7克‬‬ ‫。‪拉，整个创作历时150 个小时完成‬‬ ‫‪第二款项链由宝嘉尔手艺高超的工匠花费200‬‬ ‫‪个小时完成，镶嵌以12枚梨形切割彩黄色钻石，重‬‬ ‫‪12.1克拉；一枚重达7.02克拉的梨形切割彩黄钻石‬‬ ‫‪为整个作品画龙点睛。这对单件价值高达50万欧元‬‬ ‫‪的旷世之作仅接受贵宾的垂询和预订。这些珍宝世‬‬ ‫‪所罕见，而其创作过程中最大的挑战莫过于采集颜‬‬ ‫‪色匹配的高品质钻石。只有宝嘉尔这样的重量级品‬‬ ‫。‪牌才有可能做到这一点‬‬ ‫‪无论您是想挑选一款精美绝伦的首饰，还是想‬‬ ‫‪物色一件合适的珠宝在特殊场合佩戴，或者您想将‬‬ ‫‪它馈赠心上人，又或者想为日常装扮增添一份点‬‬ ‫‪缀，宝嘉尔钻石系列一定不会让您失望。就像 Lanz‬‬ ‫‪说的那样，‬‬ ‫”。‪“我们坚持最高标准，绝不妥协‬‬

‫‪78: When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free‬‬ ‫‪畅购全球，尊享退税‬‬

‫‪当您在全球顶级购物区中的30多万家商店消费时，‬‬ ‫‪环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free‬‬ ‫。‪Shopping）为您节约购物开销‬‬ ‫‪每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global‬‬ ‫‪Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻‬‬ ‫‪找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联‬‬ ‫‪（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过‬‬ ‫‪程：‬‬

‫‪1. 消费购物‬‬ ‫‪无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格‬‬ ‫‪（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小‬‬ ‫。‪票‬‬

‫‪2. 申请退税‬‬ ‫‪当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台‬‬ ‫‪请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联‬‬ ‫。‪的退税点领取您的退税款‬‬ ‫‪联系方式：‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫‪最低消费€25即可节省高达购买价格14.5%的税。请‬‬ ‫‪注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管‬‬ ‫‪理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取‬‬ ‫。‪现金退税手续费‬‬

‫‪88‬‬

‫الخاصة‪ .‬وما‬ ‫هي الصفيّي الذي يتمتّعون بأسلوبهم وعاداتهم‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫شارع ‪ Goethestrasse‬بحلته الفاخرة الكثية‪ ،‬إل خي دليل‬ ‫عل ذل“‪.‬‬ ‫لكن بالرغم من ذل“‪ ،‬ما زال لفرانكفورت عناص قبليّة أكث‬ ‫تقدّميّة‪ .‬يشي ‪ Friedrichs‬عل سبيل الثال إل العرض السنوي‬ ‫لعمل الص ّممي الشباب ‪Stilblüten Festival für Mode‬‬ ‫‪ und Design‬الذي ّأسسته شقيقته ‪ Stella Friedrichs‬سنة‬ ‫‪ 2005‬بالضافة إل متاجر اللبس الستقلّة التي تبيع “ملبس‬ ‫رجاليّة عريقة” لطالا أحبّها الناس ف ألانيا‪“ .‬يتمثّل السلوب‬ ‫بلبس عمل رث ّة وسوال دنيم مز ّود بحاشية وجزم ٍة وأمريكانا‪،‬‬ ‫ويحظى هنا بشهر ٍة واسعة نظرا ً لحرص اللان عل جودة ما‬ ‫يرتدون‪ .‬كم يشكّل ف اللبس الرجاليّة أسلوباً عمليّاً قابلً للّبس‬ ‫مهم كان الس ّن‪ .‬أي أنّه يتميّز بعنصي العمليّة والستدامة‪”.‬‬ ‫عل محبّي الستكشاف أن يقصدوا متاجر مثل ‪The‬‬ ‫‪ Listener‬ف شارع ‪ Stephanstrasse‬و‪Red Wing‬‬ ‫‪ Shoes‬ف ‪ Kornmarkt‬و‪ Sør‬ف ‪Kaiserstrasse‬‬ ‫الختصة بجالت أخرى غي اللبس لكن‬ ‫وغيها من الحلت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اللتزمة بالجودة مثل ‪ Manufactum‬ف ‪Bockenheimer‬‬ ‫‪ .Anlage‬وكلّم يكون ‪ Friedrichs‬ف الدينة‪ ،‬ينتهز‬ ‫لقص شعره بطريقة ملئة ومبتكرة لدى ‪Torreto‬‬ ‫الفرصة ّ‬ ‫‪ Barbershop‬ف ‪.Alte Gasse‬‬ ‫يقول ‪“ :Friedrichs‬بحكم موقع فرانكفورت ف الوسط‪،‬‬ ‫تجيد اقتباس الفكار من حولها‪ ،‬لك ّنها عل غرار اليابان‪ ،‬تبع ف‬ ‫النسخ والصقل أكث منه ف البتكار الميّز‪ .‬يكن أن تجد فيها أمثلة‬ ‫ربا‬ ‫ممتازة عن بعض الثقافات الفرعيّة الرائعة من الخارج لكن ّ‬ ‫تفتقر إل الروحيّة الحقيقيّة‪ .‬علي“ أن تقصد الصدر لهذا الغرض‪”.‬‬ ‫أي أنّه للوصول إل باطن الدينة الحقيقي‪ ،‬علي“ أل‬ ‫القل فخامة والكث ابتكارا ً‪ .‬ينصح‬ ‫تجاري التيّار وتقصد أحياءها ّ‬ ‫‪ Friedrichs‬بنطقة العارض ف فرانكفورت‪ ،‬حيث محطّة‬ ‫وبخاصة منطقة ‪ Bahnhofsviertel‬الحظورة‬ ‫القطار الكتظّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫سابقاً الحيطة بها‪ .‬وف طريق“ إل هناك‪ ،‬قد تكتشف بعض‬ ‫الكنوز مثل ‪ B74 Selected Goods‬ف شارع ‪Berliner‬‬ ‫‪ Strasse‬ومناضد العرض التي تفوق الستّي ف سوق‬ ‫‪ Kleinmarkthalle‬الداخل و‪ Phoenix Tea‬ف شارع‬ ‫‪ Friedrichs Landstrasse‬أو حانة ‪ Walon & Rosetti‬ف‬ ‫‪.Moselstrasse‬‬ ‫يقول ‪“ :Friedrichs‬أزور فرانكفورت دوريّاً لرى عائلتي‬ ‫وأستمتع‪ ...‬بالرغم من أنّها الن بغالبيّتها مدينة غنيّة للغاية‪ ،‬قُم‬ ‫باستكشافها وستجد أنّها ما زالت مليئة با ل تتوقّعه‪ .‬وآخذ الكاميا‬ ‫معي دوماً‪”.‬‬ ‫‪Dazzling Success :52‬‬

‫نجاح باهر‬ ‫ٌ‬

‫علمة ‪ Bucherer‬أحد أبرز خباء اللاس ف العال‪ ،‬تتمتّع بخبة‬ ‫تزيد عن قرنٍ ف هذا الجال‪ .‬تستكشف ‪Hannah Lewis‬‬ ‫مجموعات العلمة الذهلة‬ ‫تأسست ‪ Bucherer‬سنة ‪ 1888‬وتط ّورت من شكة عائليّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التخصصة بالساعات والجوهرات‬ ‫صغية إل أحد أبرز السمء‬ ‫ّ‬

‫الفاخرة ف العال‪ .‬توارثت الشكة ثلثة أجيال ويديرها اليوم ‪JÖrg‬‬ ‫‪ G Bucherer‬وقد اعتمدت عب السني عدّة أساليب وأناط‬

‫بقي راسخاً طوال هذه الفتة‪ ،‬أل وهو‬ ‫متط ّورة‪ .‬لك ّن شيئاً واحدا ً َ‬ ‫اللاس‪ .‬ع ّززت ‪ Bucherer‬خبتها ف السوق عب الجيال‪ ،‬من‬ ‫اختيار أروع الحجار إل تعيي أمهر الحرفيّي لتحويل هذه الحجار‬ ‫الكرية إل مجوهرات جميلة‪ .‬واليوم تُعتب العلمة من ألع خباء‬ ‫الرصعة بالاس ف العال‪.‬‬ ‫الجوهرات ّ‬ ‫يقول ‪ ،Tobias Lanz‬السؤول الرئيس عن شاء اللاس‬ ‫لدى ‪ Bucherer‬حيث بدأ العمل منذ ‪ 20‬سنة كصائغ ذهب‬ ‫تخصصاً مع الوقت‪“ :‬اللاس هو سيّد الحجار الكرية من‬ ‫وزاد ّ‬ ‫لت‬ ‫يعب بريقه الساحر عن أصدق الشاعر‪ .‬لطالا ُذ ِه ُ‬ ‫دون منازع‪ّ ...‬‬ ‫الختص باللاس كبي ويشمل‬ ‫باللاس والحجار الكرية‪ ”.‬الفريق‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الشتين وخباء الحجار والصائغي وعامل التلميع‪ ،‬لكن يتمتّع‬ ‫كل واحد منهم بنفس الحمس للمس واللتزام بالتميّز‪ .‬ينعكس‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ذل“ ف مجموعة ‪ Diamonds Collection‬التي تصفها‬ ‫‪ Bucherer‬بـ “تعبيٍ عن ٍ‬ ‫شغف حقيقي”‪.‬‬ ‫ت” ّم ‪ Diamonds Collection‬تشكيلة واسعة من‬ ‫القطع الفريدة من نوعها‪ .‬من البتكارات اليوميّة البسيطة‪ ،‬كسوا ٍر‬ ‫جميل أو قرطي صغيين‪ ،‬إل القطع الميّزة الساحرة الص ّممة‬ ‫للمناسبات‪ ،‬توظّف ‪ Bucherer‬شغفها بهذه الحجار وتتجمه إل‬ ‫لي مناسبة أو زبون‪ .‬غالباً ما تُستوحى التصاميم‬ ‫تصاميم ملئة ّ‬ ‫من الشكال الطبيعيّة ويتّسم أسلوبها بالناقة والنوثة والدقّة‪،‬‬ ‫محتم ًة كلسيكيّة الاس العريقة والحجار الكرية التي تك ّمله‪،‬‬ ‫مع الحافظة عل طابع الحداثة‪ .‬تجدر الشارة إل جودة الحجار‬ ‫التي ل تُ”اهى‪ .‬لحسن الح ّظ أ ّن ‪ Bucherer‬هي من أبرز خباء‬ ‫انتقاء الاس ف العال‪ ،‬وذل“ بإشاف ‪ Lanz‬الذي يبع ف هذا‬ ‫الجال‪ .‬يشح قائلً‪“ :‬تقدّم ‪ Bucherer‬أكب تشكيلت الجوهرات‬ ‫الرصعة بالاس ف أوروبا‪ .‬وبف”ل خبتها الطويلة وعلقاتها‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫العريقة وأحكامها التقدّمة‪ ،‬بإمكان الشكة شاء أحجا ٍر نادرة‬ ‫وتوفي ماسات عالية الجودة بأسعا ٍر معقولة لزبائنها‪”.‬‬ ‫ي”يف‪“ :‬نبحث عن ماسات فائقة الجودة‪ ،‬تُحدّدها خصائص‬ ‫أساسيّة أربعة‪ :‬القطع واللّون والوضوح والوزن‪ .‬تختلف أهميّة‬ ‫كل خاصيّة بحسب الزبون‪ ،‬لكن يبقى القطع أولويّة بالنسبة إل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Bucherer‬إذ إنّه ال ُعنص الوحيد من ُصنع النسان”‪ .‬وعل ح ّد‬ ‫قول ‪ ،Lanz‬بالرغم من زيادة الطلب التواصلة عل اللاس‪ ،‬لن‬ ‫تساوم الشكة أبدا ً عل تحقيق التميّز‪.‬‬ ‫نظرا ً لخبة ‪ Bucherer‬ومكانتها الراسخة ف السوق‪ ،‬تحظى‬ ‫ببعض أندر الحجار با فيها الاسات الل ّونة الفاخرة‪ .‬ف حي يحدّد‬ ‫انعدام اللّونِ القيم َة ف اللاس البيض‪ ،‬تتمثّل القيمة ف اللاس‬ ‫الل ّون الفاخر – أي الذي يكون خارج نطاق اللوان الألوفة – ف‬ ‫درجة تشبّع اللّون‪ .‬بحسب بعض التقديرات‪ ،‬يت ّم التنقيب عن‬ ‫قي ٍاط واحد من الاس الل ّون الفاخر مقابل ‪ 10‬آلف قياط من‬ ‫الاس البيض‪ ،‬ما يجعل هذه الجواهر من الشهر والغل ف العال‪.‬‬ ‫كل سنة مجموعة محدّدة من القطع‬ ‫تعرض ‪ّ Bucherer‬‬ ‫التي تشمل هذه الجواهر النادرة بلونها‪ .‬ت ّم ابتكار مجموعة هذا‬ ‫العام ف مشاغل العلمة عل ضفاف بحية ‪Lake Lucerne‬‬ ‫وفيها قطعتان فريدتان هم عقدان فاخران من اللاس الصفر‬ ‫الكمثي‪ .‬استوحيا من التطريز التقليدي ‪ ،St Gallen‬من البلدة‬ ‫السويسيّة التي تحمل السم نفسه‪ ،‬وأحل التوازن بي الفخامة‬ ‫وحس الهشاشة التجم بالتخريم من جه ٍة‬ ‫الواضحة من جهة ّ‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪A Matter Of Time :42‬‬

‫مسألة وقت‬

‫لدى العلمات التجاريّة اللانيّة الرائدة ف مجال الساعات الكثي‬

‫لتقدّمه عل صعيدي الفخامة والبتكار‪ ،‬تقرير ‪Stephen Doig‬‬

‫شيئاً فشيئاً‪ ،‬تتلش الفكرة الشائعة باقتصار تصميم الساعات‬ ‫التي ل مثيل لها عل سويسا‪ .‬إذ ينظر الستهلكون إل ما أبعد‬ ‫من جنيف وجبال ‪ Jura‬ويدركون أنّه من المكن إيجاد الحرفيّة‬ ‫العاليّة ف بِقا ٍع أخرى‪ .‬ففي العقد الخي‪ ،‬أضافت بريطانيا‬ ‫بعض اللّمسات البسيطة عل عال الساعات وطبّقت البلدان‬ ‫السكندينافيّة أسلوبها النظيف التواضع عل التصاميم‪ .‬إل أ ّن‬ ‫إحدى البلدان الرائدة ف تصميم الساعات واقعة خلف الحدود‬ ‫السويسيّة‪ ،‬ف ألانيا بالتحديد‪ ،‬حيث خطا مؤ ّخرا ً صانعو الساعات‬ ‫خطوة إل المام‪ .‬لطالا كانت طرق الهندسة الرائدة والخبات‬ ‫التحليليّة من ِسمت التصميم اللان‪ ،‬بالتال تشكّل هذه الزايا‬ ‫الباغمتيكيّة عناص أساسيّة ف ساعاتها البتكرة‪.‬‬ ‫يقول ‪ ،Tim Barber‬رئيس تحرير مجلّة ‪Telegraph‬‬ ‫الختصة بالساعات الفاخرة‪“ :‬للانيا مكانة قويّة ف‬ ‫‪Time‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫عال الساعات وقد خلقت البلد عب السني بعض أبرز العلمات‬ ‫الختصة بالساعات”‪ .‬تجدر الشارة إل أنّه ف سويسا‪،‬‬ ‫التجاريّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫باتت اللت الزراعيّة الستخدمة ف الجبال السويسيّة‬ ‫جوهريّة لتأسيس قطاع صناعة الساعات‪ .‬والمر سيّان ف منطقة‬ ‫‪ Glashütte‬الحافلة بتاريخ عريق ف مجال الهندسة والتصنيع‪،‬‬ ‫والتي شكّلت موقعاً رئيسيّاً لتط ّور قطاع الساعات ف ألانيا‪.‬‬ ‫تأسست‬ ‫ل لدى ‪ّ .Glashütte Original‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫حس الباعة ج ّ‬ ‫العلمة سنة ‪ 1845‬باسم ‪Glashütte Uhrenbetriebe‬‬ ‫وسعان ما أثبتت تيّزها ف صناعة الساعات الفاخرة‪ .‬ث ّم أطلقت‬ ‫ف الستّينات الوديل الكلسيك ‪ Spezimatic‬الذي اشتهر ف‬ ‫حقب ٍة من التكلّف وذل“ بف”ل تصميمه النظيف الذي يكاد‬ ‫يكون متواضعاً‪ .‬هذه السنة‪ ،‬تعيد العلمة إحياء أسلوبها القديم‬ ‫من خلل ‪ Sixties Iconic Collection‬وهي مجموعة من‬ ‫الساعات الكلسيكيّة بيناء ذي لونٍ ناصع ل ّاع‪ .‬أطلقت العلمة‬ ‫هذه السنة عدّة تصاميم عظيمة ف معرض الساعات والجوهرات‬ ‫‪ ،Baselworld‬ومن ضمنها ساعة ‪.Senator Excellence‬‬ ‫هذه الساعة الرائعة بتحفّظ والؤلّفة من ميناء كلسيك وغطاء من‬ ‫والفض‪ ،‬هي خي دليل عل إرضاء ‪Glashütte‬‬ ‫الذهب البيض‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لكل الذواق‪ ،‬من محبّي الوضة إل أولئ“ الباحثي عن‬ ‫‪ّ Original‬‬ ‫إلهامٍ عريق وأساليب أكث تقليديّة‪.‬‬ ‫غي أ ّن ‪ Glashütte Original‬ليست العلمة الوحيدة‬ ‫من منطقة ‪ Glashütte‬؛ بل ث ّة أي”ا ً العلمة العريقة ‪A‬‬ ‫أسسها ‪FerdinandAdolph Lange‬‬ ‫‪ّ .Lange & Sohne‬‬ ‫سنة ‪ 1845‬وتشتهر بأسلوبها التقليدي ومجموعة ساعاتها‬ ‫الكلسيكيّة‪ .‬عل غرار نطها التواضع الذي ييّزها‪ ،‬تس ّمى ساعاتها‬ ‫بكل بساطة ‪ Lange 1‬و‪ Lange 2‬وهكذا دوالي“‪ .‬بالرغم‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫من تاريخها العريق‪ ،‬تتمش هذه العلمة مع العص بانسيابيّة‬ ‫خرا ً الساعة الرقميّة ‪Zeitwerk Minute‬‬ ‫مطلقة وقد أطلقت مؤ ّ‬ ‫كل علمة فاخرة ساع ًة‬ ‫‪ .Repeater‬وف حقب ٍة صنعت فيها ّ‬

‫رقميّة‪ ،‬ابتكرت ‪ A Lange & Sihne‬موديلً استثنائيّاً يتميّز‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫التأصلة ف‬ ‫رقمي لك ّنه ُم َمك َنن باستخدام الحرفيّة التقليديّة ّ‬ ‫بعرض ّ‬ ‫العلمة؛ أي أنّه يجمع أف”ل ما ف العالي‪.‬‬ ‫ف حي تبتكر علمات عل سبيل ‪Glashütte Original‬‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ساعات باهظة الثمن وأحياناً فاحشة‬ ‫و‪A Lange & Sohne‬‬ ‫الغلء‪ ،‬يشكّل الدار اللان ‪ Perigaum 1972‬الخيار العاكس‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ساعات صاعد مقارن ًة بغيه إذ‬ ‫ويُتاح لجمهو ٍر أكب بكثي‪ .‬إنّه دار‬ ‫تأسس سنة ‪ 2001‬عل يد مجموعة من صانعي الساعات الهت ّمي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫استوحيت العلمة التجاريّة‬ ‫بابتكار قطعٍ رائعة وجريئة وعصيّة‪.‬‬ ‫من القتباس الشهي لعال الف”اء ‪ Neil Armstrong‬عندما‬ ‫حس‬ ‫بات النسان ال ّول الذي يطأ سطح القمر سنة ‪ 1969‬ويبز ّ‬ ‫الغامرة لديها ف ساعات الطيّارين والغطّاسي‪ .‬ويبدو أ ّن بعض‬ ‫الوديلت عل سبيل ‪ Lumberjack‬جوهريّة وذكوريّة عل‬ ‫عكس موضة الساعات النيقة الرائجة مؤ ّخرا ً‪ .‬ف النهاية‪ ،‬بالرغم‬ ‫كل الدقّة التقنيّة والعناية بالتفاصيل والجرأة ف التصميم التي‬ ‫من ّ‬ ‫يشتهر بها نظراؤها السويسيّون‪ ،‬تُثبت هذه العلمات أ ّن ألانيا‬ ‫ق ّوة ل يُستَها ُن بها ف سوق الساعات‪ .‬قد تكون سويسا الن ف‬ ‫الصدارة من حيث الرث والسمعة‪ ،‬لكن لئحة العلمات البتكرة‬ ‫ف ألانيا‪ ،‬من دون أدن ّ‬ ‫ش“‪ ،‬جديرة بالنتباه‪.‬‬ ‫‪Under The Lens :48‬‬

‫من خلل العدسة‬

‫الص ّور ‪ Horst Friedrichs‬يصطحب ‪ Josh Sims‬ف جولة ف‬ ‫فرانكفورت مسقط رأسه ويعطيه بعض النصائح السيّة عن أف”ل‬ ‫الماكن غي ال ُعلنة للرجال الميّزي السلوب‬ ‫إن قصدت مقهى ومحمصة ‪Hoppenworth & Ploch‬‬ ‫ف شارع ‪ ،Friedberger Landstrasse‬تجد ‪Horst‬‬ ‫‪ Friedrichs‬هناك‪ .‬يعمل هذا الص ّور الوثائقي الولود ف‬

‫فرانكفورت والقيم حاليّاً ف لندن‪ ،‬عل كتاب جديد عن القهوة‪،‬‬ ‫ليس عن طعمها بقدر ما هو عن ثقافتها‪ .‬يقول‪“ :‬بالذهاب إل‬ ‫مهرجان قهوة با فيه من ماكينات ل ّاعة ومعدّي قهوة معاصين‪،‬‬ ‫خاص للغاية”‪.‬‬ ‫تشعر أنّ“ تقوم برحلة ف عا ٍل ّ‬ ‫هذا هو بال”بط شغف ‪ .Friedrich‬لطالا انجذب إل‬ ‫الجموعات السيّة لكن الؤث ّرة واشتهر بدراساته التصويريّة‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ثقافات فرعيّة متعدّدة‪ ،‬من الصوفيّي ف باكستان إل‬ ‫الواسعة عن‬ ‫محبّي الوضة والوسيقى ف ‪ Margate‬ومن مجتمعات الصحراء‬ ‫ف فنزويل إل الولعي بالدّنيم‪ .‬يقول ف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬لطالا تتّعت‬ ‫بهذه الرؤية النسانيّة‪ .‬ترعرعت ف فرانكفورت وشهدت حركة‬ ‫البان“ من بريطانيا وموسيقى الريغي من جامايكا‪ .‬لطالا اعتبت‬ ‫استكشاف الثقافات الفرعيّة أمرا ً‬ ‫يستحق العناء؛ يُع َرف عنها القليل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ويصدر عنها الكثي‪ .‬كلّها تبدأ ف الشارع وسعان ما تصبح موضة‬ ‫كل شء‪”.‬‬ ‫ف عال التجارة‪ .‬الثقافات الفرعيّة هي مصدر ّ‬ ‫انظر تحت سمء فرانكفورت لتتأكّد من ص ّحة هذه النظريّة‪.‬‬ ‫كانت هذه الدينة ف شباب ‪ Friedrichs‬رائدة ف مجال‬ ‫موسيقى التكنو وأسلوبه‪ ،‬عل سبيل الثال (يوضّ ح قائلً‪“ :‬مع أنّني‬ ‫وبخاصة تل“ الجزامي ال”خمة”)‪ .‬لكن اليوم‬ ‫ل ألتزم قط بالظهر‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وبعد القيام بحملة تحسي وتطوير سيعة ف الدينة‪ ،‬ويعود ذل“‬ ‫جزئياً إل موقعها كمرك ٍز ما ّل‪ ،‬قد تكون الثقافة الفرعيّة القوى فيها‬

90 | P RO D U C T S

SOUVENIR

CHARMED EXISTENCE Thomas Sabo is known for its innovative sterling silver jewellery, and its autumn/winter 2016/17 additions to its Love Bridge collection feature a variety of desirable chains and pendants in solid silver, or plated in 18-carat yellow and rose gold. The pendants have striking motifs, such as the eye of Horus set with cubic zirconias and synthetic spinels, as well as a heart, infinity symbol and others.

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These can all be engraved with anything from a memorable date to a meaningful symbol for the ultimate in personalisation. Launched in 1984, Thomas Sabo swiftly became synonymous with high quality; its first stand-alone store opened in Frankfurt in 1998, and the city remains a focus for the brand. dw Thomas Sabo sterling silver bracelets, from â‚Ź29, pendants, from â‚Ź29, Thomas Sabo, Steinweg 3, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2193 9939, thomassabo.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73

Porsche Design

1919 DATETIMER ALL TITANIUM – The art of reduction.

Perfection in form and function.

Designed in Austria. Swiss Made.

E V E R Y T H I N G T H AT D R I V E S M E N Welcome to the world of Porsche Design. A world that stays eternally young, fresh, and cool by passionately driving for innovation. A world where new quality materials, technologies, and fi nest functional elegance blend into a truly exclusive, iconic contemporary design. Some call it luxury? We call it essentials for a challenging future. www.porsche-design.com

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