SHOP Frankfurt SS16

FRANKFURT | ФРАНКФУРТ | 法兰克福 |

FRANKFURT Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2016

Page 40 TRUE ORIGINALS: how Germany’s traditional porcelain makers are winning new fans

‫ف رانكفورت‬

WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS

Willkommen bei Bucherer, ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmen und eines der führenden Häuser für Uhren und Schmuck in Europa.

In Frankfurts größtem Juweliergeschäft erwartet Sie eine überwältigende Auswahl an Luxus-Uhrenmarken sowie exquisite Schmuckstücke, ein erstklassiger Service und eine eigene Rolex und Patek Philippe Boutique.

Welcome to Bucherer, a Swiss company with a long tradition and one of the leading establishments for watches and jewellery in Europe.

In Frankfurt’s largest jewellery store, you will find an overwhelming selection of luxury watch brands and exquisite jewellery, as well as first-class service and an in-shop Rolex and Patek Philippe Boutique.

und viele mehr · and many more

Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1

Patek Philippe is available at the following Bucherer stores: Berlin Friedrichstraße 179, Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1 and Munich Residenzstraße 11.

Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com

BÖRSENSTRASSE 1 • FRANKFURT shop tommy.com

DEUTSCHE UHRMACHERKUNST.1893

www.christ.de

DOUGL AS.EU

Beauty and more … visi� Europe’� No. 1 perfumery!

W E W I L L B E P L E A S E D TO W E LC O M E YO U TO T H E D O U G L A S W O R L D O F B E AU T Y I N F R A N K F U RT:

∙ Zeil 98–102, 069 - 133869150 ∙ Kaiser Straße 1, 069 - 284969

Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories.

With 1,700 perfumeries in 19 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.

Explore our world of beauty!

Read more on douglas.eu

In the mood for fashion?

Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices. visit us: www.canda.com facebook.com/ca Frankfurt: Zeil 48 • Nordwestzentrum • Hessen-Center

Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам.

‫هل أنت راغب بآخر الصيحات؟‬ ،‫ ستجدون لدينا أخر صيحات الموضة‬.C&A ‫إذا ستسعد بما تقدمه محلت‬ ‫ وماعليكم إل أن تتمتعوا بالتسوق في‬.‫من ملبس السبور إلى قمة الناقة‬ ‫ لقد عودنا زبائننا الكرام على تشكيلة واسعة من ملبس السيدات‬.‫محلتنا‬ . ‫والرجال والطفال ذات النوعية العالية وبأفضل الثمان‬

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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen 捷克共和国

Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Германия

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this prosperous fnancial centre. Frankfurt has much to ofer, as our guide on page 61 reveals. Readers who appreciate world-class homeware will enjoy our feature on local and not-so-local traditional porcelain manufacturers (page 40), and in this issue we also profle the hugely successful German fashion label Hugo Boss.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Frankfurt. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

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@GlobalBlue

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巴黎

Portugal Prague Riga Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius

ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Welcome to Frankfurt

Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Nuremburg Oslo Paris

OYS TER PER PE TUA L E X PLOR ER II

FASHION, LIFESTYLE AND MORE

You can find these and other top brands in Karstadt stores in: Berlin: Kurfürstendamm, Schlossstrasse, Charlottenburg, Hermannplatz, Müllerstrasse / Düsseldorf: Schadowstrasse / Frankfurt: Zeil / Hamburg: Mönckebergstrasse / Hanover: Georgstrasse / Leipzig: Petersstrasse / Dresden: Prager Strasse / Cologne: Breite Strasse / Munich: Bahnhofplatz / Nuremberg: An der Lorenzkirche

Our branches in top central locations in most major German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience. Lots of customers are attracted by not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events.

Enjoy your next shopping spree on a journey of discovery through our Karstadt stores.

Open until 8 p.m.

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ILLUSTRATION: MAÏTÉ FRANCHI - FOLIO ART

CONTRIBUTORS

Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims contributes to publications that include the Financial Times, Independent, Observer, Wallpaper and Esquire. His latest book is Icons of Women’s Style, published in April 2015. globalblue.com

Katie Byrne SHOP’s assistant picture editor Katie Byrne graduated in contemporary media practice from the University of Westminster, specialising in photography, and has previously worked in celebrity news and picture agencies.

Maïté Franchi Maïté Franchi created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Frankfurt. She brings a unique approach and perspective to her work. Her captivating textured digital style makes her the perfect illustrator for this cover, inspired by our feature on page 40 about the German porcelain manufacturers who are using innovative techniques to stay on trend.

It shows the contrast between classic porcelain pieces and the contemporary designs of today.

Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Stephen Doig Stephen Doig, formerly SHOP’s features editor, is now men’s style editor and assistant luxury editor at the Telegraph; he has also written for Vogue, GQ and the Financial Times.

His weaknesses include red wine and good cheese.

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Maïté Franchi - Folio Art Contributors Stephen Doig, Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Fashion intern Danielle De Wolfe

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yangzi Liang, Manqing Li Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy

News editor Rebecca Davies Assistant news editor Theresa Harold

Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Charlotte Rogers Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Head of commercial Europe/ Latin America Pier Francesco Nervini Head of commercial Central Europe Ronald Christen Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialists Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko Sales manager Pino Dufter Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Tourismus+Congress, Kaiserstrasse 56, 60329 Frankfurt am Main, +49 (0)69 2123 8800, frankfurt-tourismus.de

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Olivia Chou, Sammy Ha

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue

Porsche Design

1919 DATETIMER ALL TITANIUM – The art of reduction.

Perfection in form and function.

Designed in Austria. Swiss Made.

E V E R Y T H I N G T H AT D R I V E S M E N Welcome to the world of Porsche Design. A world that stays eternally young, fresh, and cool by passionately driving for innovation. A world where new quality materials, technologies, and fi nest functional elegance blend into a truly exclusive, iconic contemporary design. Some call it luxury? We call it essentials for a challenging future. www.porsche-design.com

Frankfurt | Große Bockenheimer Straße 41 Frankfurt Airport | Landside Terminal 1 & Airside Terminal 1

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CONTENTS

PHOTO: VILLEROY & BOCH AG

p.40

Products

Features

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40

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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Frankfurt this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

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News 36 38

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Frankfurt News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

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Cover story: In Fine Shape Germany’s traditional porcelain manufacturers are going strong, winning new fans with innovative techniques and inspired designs, says Josh Sims In Focus: Hugo Boss This prestigious German brand, known the world over for its suiting, boasts an impressive heritage – and its sights remain firmly fixed on the future, as Stephen Doig discovers Making The Cut Wempe is celebrating the launch of its signature diamond cut. Ruairidh Pritchard explores the German brand’s sparkling new addition

Above: Villeroy & Boch is among the established porcelain makers gaining new admirers with a diverse range of styles

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CONTENTS

PHOTO: THOMAS JUPA

p.56

Experience

Translations

56

78 Русский Перевод 83 美文翻译 89

Sweet Thing Gourmet ice cream is the taste of summer in Frankfurt, says Isabella Redmond Styles

Guide

Souvenir

61

90

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Frankfurt

Essentials 76

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

Above: Eis Christina’s indulgent natural ice cream

The essential item to bring home

FRANKFURT AN DER HAUPTWACHE Shopping at its best!

Located at the ZEIL, one of Europe’s famous shopping streets, GALERIA Kaufhof offers you a full-service package: excellent products, capable staff and diverse amenities guarantee you an unforgettable experience. From brand-name fashion items to jewellery, from household goods to accessories – our fascinating shops and themed areas provide a huge variety of international products and our restaurant “Leonhard’s” an unique view over Frankfurt’s skyline.

If you come from a country outside the EU, please enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof!

Please scan the QRcode with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Frankfurt, an der Hauptwache.

Free WLAN in our store!

We also offer the service City Refund and pay out all your German Tax Free Forms.

GALERIA Kaufhof...

... makes you fall in love with Germany

GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

galeria-kaufhof.de

28 | P RO D U C T S

CHECK OUT

HEAD OVER HEELS Miuccia Prada’s trend-setting footwear and accessories are must-haves season after season, and spring/summer 2016 is no exception.

Among the highlights of a collection that references the 1950s and 1960s to impressive effect are these covetable suede and metallic shoes. In a palette of silver, salmon pink and brown finished with a space-age silver bauble, the open-toed style – reminiscent of the era of Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

André Courrèges and Pierre Cardin – has an elegant low heel that’s perfect for both daytime and evening. Its quirky embellishment, stripes and colourful notes are a feature of the entire spring/summer 2016 womenswear collection, which offers something for everyone, be it a small accessory or a full-on glamorous look. fm Prada shoes, price on request, Prada, Goethestrasse 9, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 283469, prada.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 71

Welcome to Kraemer!

You will fnd a fne selection of original watch brands and exquisite jewellery. Of course, we can advise you in english and chinese too.

We look forward to your visit.

Frankfurt / Zeil 84 and Skyline Plaza www.juweliere-kraemer.de

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SLEEK MONOCHROME

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Keep it simple with statement designs in black, white and grey

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1. S Max Mara dress, €329, Max Mara, An der Hauptwache 5, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2475 12380, maxmara.com

3. Cartier earrings, price on request, Cartier, Goethestrasse 11, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 133 8660, cartier.com

2. Jimmy Choo Vernie sandals, €495, Jimmy Choo, Goethestrasse 27, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2578 8280, jimmychoo.com

4. Swarovski Eclipse necklace, €599, Swarovski, MyZeil, Zeil 106, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2097 8805, swarovski.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

5. Versace bag, €2,580, Versace, Goethestrasse 22, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9139 8699, versace.com

PHOTOS: (2) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY; (3) VINCENT DE LA FAILLE © CARTIER

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LAND AND SEA

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Match bold blues with earthy browns like a rugged urban explorer

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PHOTO: (2) RASMUS DENGSØ

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1. Barbour International x Triumph jacket, €379, Anson’s, MyZeil, Zeil 106, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9866 2139, barbour.com 2. Bang & Olufsen BeoSound Moment sound system, €2,195, Hif-Profs, Grosse Friedberger Strasse 23-27, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9200 4188, bang-olufsen.com

globalblue.com

3. Louis Vuitton key chain, from €195, Louis Vuitton, Goethestrasse 1, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 5670 02000, louisvuitton.com 4. Salvatore Ferragamo bag, €1,300, Salvatore Ferragamo, Goethestrasse 2, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 920 0730, ferragamo.com

5. Diesel jeans, €220, Diesel, Rathenauplatz 1-3, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9288 3160, diesel.com

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THE MODERN GENT

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Cutting-edge technology and subtle scents are this season’s travel must-haves

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1. Rimowa Salsa Deluxe cabin multiwheel case, from €439, Gabler, Töngesgasse 33, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 281472, rimowa.de

3. Faber-Castell Stylus pen, €6.95, Faber-Castell, Steinweg 12, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9002 5978, faber-castell.com

2. Acqua di Parma Colonia Essenza, 100ml, €163, Albrecht, Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse 37-39, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 287472, acquadiparma.com

4. Montblanc backpack, €750, Montblanc, Terminal 1, Frankfurt Airport, +49 (0)69 6986 9036, montblanc.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

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5. Porsche Design watch, €3,950, Porsche Design, Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse 41, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2165 7660, porsche-design.com 6. Vertu Aster Yosegi Wood phone, €8,900, Vertu, Goethestrasse 14, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2972 8097, vertu.com

LEADING WOMENSWEAR BRANDS AND COLLECTIONS FRANKFURT/MAIN ZEIL 100 MONDAY THROUGH THURSDAY 10 AM - 8 PM FRIDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 10 AM - 9 PM SULZBACH/TAUNUS MAIN-TAUNUS-ZENTRUM MONDAY THROUGH WEDNESDAY 9.30 AM - 8 PM THURSDAY THROUGH SATURDAY 9.30 AM - 10 PM

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SUMMER GLOW Add vibrancy to your holiday wardrobe with these bold summer essentials

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1. Massimo Dutti Tech by Sony camera with case, €595, Massimo Dutti, Terminal 1, Frankfurt Airport, +49 (0)69 6959 5860, massimodutti.com 2. Orlebar Brown swimsuit, €225, Fifty Eights, Kronberger Strasse 19, 60323 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 725535, orlebarbrown.com

3. Jo Malone Orange Blossom cologne, 100ml, €100, Douglas, Zeil 98-102, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 1338 69150, jomalone.com

5. Hermès beach towel, from €410, Hermès, Goethestrasse 25, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 298 0283, hermes.com

4. Bulgari Serpenti Forever bag, €1,980, Bulgari, Goethestrasse 16, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 913 0530, bulgari.com

6. Kiyoko lip balm, €12.50, Kauf Dich Glücklich, Grosse Eschenheimer Strasse 39, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 2193 7903, kiyokothebrand.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

PHOTOS: (3) © FOUR SQUARE STUDIO INC.; (5) STUDIO DES FLEURS

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SHOP WINDOW

FRANKFURT À LA MODE August Pfüller has been the fashion destination of choice for those in the know since it opened in 1878. Located on the prestigious Goethestrasse, the boutique offers a carefully curated selection of womenswear, childrenswear and accessories from both emerging talents and international designers Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

such as Alexander Wang, Stella McCartney and Saint Laurent. With an ever-changing window display of inspiring looks, and an edit of fine fashion guaranteed to satisfy even the most discerning of visitors, this retail haven is well worth a visit. th August Pfüller, Goethestrasse 15-17, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 1337 8060, august-pfueller.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 71

BADEN

BADEN

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MAKE A STATEMENT When it comes to luxury timepieces, quality is key, but rarely do fine Swiss watches make style statements as bold as the one made by the new Hublot Big Bang Jeans Vintage. Swathed in distressed denim, the latest addition to Hublot’s Big Bang series features 36 sparkling diamonds, with 1.80 carats on the bezel alone. Available in either 18-carat rose gold or more casual stainless steel (pictured; €14,400), the Big Bang Jeans Vintage is limited to just 450 pieces, making it not only one of the most distinctive timepieces of the season, but also an exclusive collectors piece. rp Hublot, Goethestrasse 4-8, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 1338 5326, hublot.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 71

DISTINCTLY DIFFERENT Founded by Leonid Sladkevich and Matthias Gruner in 2008, Frankfurt-based fashion label Leonid Matthias has different lines to suit various personalities, all made in its own workshops. Its ‘fashion concept store’ offers a wide range of ready-to-wear for men and women, along with a carefully chosen selection of homeware and accessories; there’s also an open studio where visitors can watch new pieces being created. th Leonid Matthias, Walter-Kolb-Strasse 7, 60594 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 4003 1841, leonidmatthias.com Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

IN BRIEF The StellaSport spring/summer 2016 collection for Adidas is a riot of colour.

The brand’s playful spirit is encapsulated in rainbow lettering, tie-dye details and graphic rose prints – a good look on the street or in the gym

S H O P | 39

BACK TO THE FUTURE For spring/summer 2016, Dr Hauschka has brought some of its limited editions of the past back into the spotlight – albeit in modern new packaging. Featured in the 2009 Natural Pastel Look collection, this Rouge Powder Duo (€37) is as fresh and light as springtime, with rose tones that give a subtle emphasis to the cheeks. The other revisited products are an eyeshadow trio, eyeliner, lipstick and balancing powder. rd Douglas, Zeil 98-102, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 1338 69150, dr.hauschka.com

HAPPY THOUGHTS German luxury jeweller Wellendorff is spreading an upbeat message this season. The brand explores different aspects of happiness in Moments of Delight, its most recent collection.

Rings are crafted in 18-carat yellow or white gold, and the tactile inner section of the band is easy to turn, encouraging the wearer to play with the mechanism and lose themselves in thought. This mindful concept links to the brand’s previous collection Genuine Delight, and some favourite pieces have been reinterpreted for spring. rd Wellendorff, Goethestrasse 4, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9203 8020, wellendorff.com

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 66

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 71

PHOTO: RAMON HAINDL

SMALL WONDERS

globalblue.com

Discover the work of rising stars at Designe Kleine. In the gallery with a twist, run by Susanne Stahl, designers hire spotlit display boxes in which to showcase their products.

Head there for one-of-a-kind handmade gifts, jewellery, accessories and more. To add some theatre, Stahl creates her own products on site, so customers can watch them in the making.

There’s also a vending machine, which dispenses small souvenirs, outside the shop for anyone turning up outside business hours. rd Designe Kleine, Wallstrasse 26, 60594 Frankfurt, +49 (0)177 451 6824, designe-kleine.de

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Above: Villeroy & Boch Artesano Original collection

IN FINE SHAPE

Germany’s traditional porcelain manufacturers are going strong, winning new fans with innovative techniques and inspired designs, says Josh Sims

PHOTO: VILLEROY & BOCH AG

S H O P | 41

42 | F E AT U R E S

I

f getting out the best china for a dinner party can feel like a social pressure even today, imagine the angst of ensuring a good spread for the Archbishop-Elector of Mainz, Johann Friedrich Karl von Ostein, in the 18th century. This was the man who took his desire for porcelain tableware of the highest standard so seriously that he granted a manufacturer the right to make it in Frankfurt just to ensure a steady supply to his household.

The result was the founding of Höchst Porzellan (now Höchster PorzellanManufaktur) in 1746, making it one of Germany’s earliest porcelain manufacturers. It adopted the wheel of Mainz as its trademark, in honour of its sponsor, a symbol that appears on its white-glazed and biscuit-fired porcelain, painted pieces, decorations and, above all, tableware even today. It’s not the only survivor from the maker’s early years; Höchster’s range includes skilful reproductions of some of its most celebrated pieces from the 18th century.

Yet while Höchster may have an obvious presence around Frankfurt, the company is far from alone in porcelain manufacturing in Germany. The country is home to many of the finest porcelain makers in the world, from

It’s not surprising that so many German brands are among those rated most highly by collectors Meissen to Nymphenburg, Wagner & Apel to Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur and Lichte.

Given that it was in Germany that the secret of how the Chinese made their much-sought-after porcelain was finally discovered in 1708, it’s not surprising that so many German brands are among those rated most highly by collectors.

Jessika Rauch is brand ambassador for Villeroy & Boch, another German porcelain brand. The development of such a strong porcelain industry in the country was, she Above (from top): a strikingly contemporary design from Höchster; the Frankfurt maker’s Antique Modernity vase

ENGELHORN DESIGN HIGHLIGHTS E XCLU S I V E FAS H I O N A N D ACCES S O R I ES O F I N T E R N AT I O N A L D ES I G N E RS A N D FAS H I O N L A B E L S

THE WORLD OF FASHION AND SPORT IN MANNHEIM +49 (0)621 – 167 22 22 WWW.ENGELHORN.DE

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believes, only natural. At a time when the infrastructure to move raw materials long distances wasn’t available, makers had to set up wherever those happened to be, and much of Germany is rich in kaolin, quartz and feldspar: porcelain’s three key ingredients. The abundance of these helped create a quality product, too: ‘the kind of porcelain that your grandmother passes down to you’, says Rauch.

‘Of course, some people will struggle to tell the difference between mass-market tableware and fine porcelain products, much as they would in clothing between one cotton and another,’ she adds. ‘The good porcelain often has a creamier colour to it, is smooth rather than rough on the underside and, if you really know your porcelain, even sounds different.

But it really shows its quality in the process of using it. It lasts. It’s an investment.’

She stresses that many of the nation’s smaller makers have struggled financially over recent decades, but that the major players have found success in necessary reinvention. If older

generations have seen high-quality porcelain as aspirational, then younger generations have tended to view it as rather old fashioned, though vintage pieces – decorated with floral motifs, country scenes or gold trim – are currently fashionable in some quarters.

‘The fact is that nobody needs a new set of porcelain tableware every year. Most people no longer want a soup tureen or six kinds of plate.

So as a national industry we have to adapt,’ explains Rauch. ‘We have to follow trends – are we eating more pasta? Are more of us living alone? – and provide more contemporary products. We have to be ready for when people Above (from top): crafsmanship in action at Villeroy & Boch; pieces from the brand’s Artesano Original collection

PHOTOS: VILLEROY & BOCH AG

While smaller makers have struggled, the major players have found success in necessary reinvention

PHOTO: GERHARD EIDEN

PHOTO: VILLEROY & BOCH AG

S H O P | 45

decide they’re finished with Ikea.’

This is why the likes of Villeroy & Boch increasingly produce more innovative pieces which, for example, blend materials: porcelain with slate, porcelain with wood. It’s why Frankfurt’s Höchster works with the designer Veit Streitenberger – also a Frankfurt resident – to create strikingly modern interpretations of more conservative porcelain forms. The company’s Impressions series, for instance, takes its name literally. A contemporary cubist vase is physically imprinted with the form of a traditional trumpet vase. A conical bowl is transformed with integrated elements from an

18th-century flower-relief plate of the kind von Ostein would have been familiar with. Other pieces are more unexpected still: a porcelain letter opener, for example, designed by Mario Effenberger and winner of the Frankfurt Messe Design Plus Award.

In this dynamic market, not every smaller piece has a place. Ornamental figurines, as one might expect given modern home interiors, are now strictly a collectors’ item, or perhaps purchased for a special occasion. Although perhaps it is just a matter of time until those, too, undergo reinvention by one of Germany’s oldest craft industries

Above (clockwise from top): Villeroy & Boch Artesano Provençal Lavendel collection; handpainting a plate at Höchster; part of the brand’s Golden Romance line

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

IN FOCUS:

HUGO BOSS This prestigious German brand, known the world over for its suiting, boasts an impressive heritage – and its sights remain frmly fxed on the horizons ahead, as Stephen Doig discovers

H

ugo Boss’s striking headquarters in Metzingen are the embodiment of the brand’s ethos. While its location adheres to the chocolate-box ideal of a quintessential German town, with half-timbered façades and medieval spires, the brand’s nerve centre is a gleaming glass and steel structure set among gardens manicured with exacting precision: a bastion of stark modernity against tradition. This description could be applied to the Hugo Boss label itself, as the brand has become renowned for its fresh, contemporary style in a market that hasn’t historically been at the forefront of the fashion industry. Despite Karl Lagerfeld’s German origins and the dominance of sportswear brands Adidas and Puma, Germany cannot quite match the style prestige of the UK, France and Italy.

Hugo Boss has always sought to change that. The brand was launched as a small clothing company in 1924; its eponymous founder faced various obstacles, including a bankruptcy which left the entrepreneur with only six sewing machines to his name. Against the odds, this committed businessman went on to steadily build the brand. Today, just over 90 years since it was founded, Hugo Boss has grown into one of the world’s largest

PHOTO: BOSS

48 | F E AT U R E S

and most successful fashion brands, with a portfolio encompassing numerous ranges under the Hugo and Boss labels, products ranging from bespoke suiting to fragrances, and an international network of over 1,000 stores.

Though styles have changed over the years and the brand has adapted with signature German pragmatism, it’s been the working wardrobe that has come to define Hugo Boss’s fashion identity. In 1950, the house started creating men’s suiting and developed innovative ways to produce off-the-rack tailored items – a powerful skill in an era where creating a suit of quality was generally a painstaking process.

A real flair for catering to the businessman – and, later, businesswoman – has been an underlying influence on everything Hugo Boss has designed over the years, including its high fashion offerings, and the brand’s universal appeal can be seen in its ability to adapt the Boss signature style to suit multiple markets.

Catwalk collections strike a contemporary note with sleek suiting, impeccable tailoring, 79 / 88

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narrow cuts and single-breasted shapes. With the founding of the Boss diffusion line in 1970, the label expanded its reach, making its wares available to those who might previously have found the cost of luxury clothing prohibitive.

In 1998, the house’s womenswear collection made its debut, boldly addressing the emerging trend for power dressing: shift dresses and elegant, sleek, feminine suiting spoke clearly to a new audience.

Today, the label is more current and dynamic than ever. This is largely thanks to the deft hand of New York-based designer Jason Wu, who has brought the trademark Hugo Boss refinement and sophistication firmly into the modern day. Wu, creative director of womenswear since 2013, has steered the line into a territory that’s both glamorous and directional. A young, contemporary designer renowned for his low-key glamour might seem like an odd fit for a 91-year-old German heritage brand, but he has become a household name. When US First Lady Michelle Obama chose to wear a Jason Wu creation at her husband’s inaugural ball in 2009, she cemented Wu’s reputation as a master of understated

elegance, making him the perfect figurehead for a brand that has spent nine decades perfecting a similar aesthetic.

When approached by Hugo Boss chief brand officer Christoph Auhagen to take on the role, Wu’s first thought was ‘why me?’. ‘It seemed like the oddest match,’ he has said. ‘I Previous page: Boss spring/summer 2016

thought of Boss as a menswear brand and I wasn’t super-knowledgeable about the women’s side, which is only 15 years old.’ Wu was won over in part by the bold modernity of the Boss headquarters in Metzingen, which he describes as ‘like the set of the movie Gattaca’ – and the deal was sealed. Since joining the label, Wu has already added a sharpness and a sense of cool. His latest collection features ice-white layers and blouses, muted grey and dove-toned dresses, sleek black minimalist gowns and soft yellow racer-back tops and dresses.

If more proof were needed that Hugo Boss is literally going places, in autumn 2015 the label sponsored a branded racing yacht.

The boat, which features graphic design by esteemed industrial designer Konstantin Grcic, will take part in the 2016 Vendée Globe yacht race, skippered by record-breaking sailor Alex Thomson. With Wu as creative director, an everincreasing range of products and stores, and now this new nautical endeavour, it’s tempting to describe Hugo Boss as a brand which is sailing ahead. Trite as this may sound, however, it is nonetheless true – this is a company with its sights set firmly on the horizon

PHOTO: MARK LLOYD/LLOYD IMAGES/AT RACING ALEX THOMPSON BOAT

PHOTO: BOSS

S H O P | 49

Above (clockwise from top far lef): Boss spring/summer 2016; one of the brand’s previous womenswear collections; the Hugo Boss racing yacht in action; the brand’s headquarters in Metzingen

MAKING THE CUT Wempe is celebrating the launch of its signature diamond cut. Ruairidh Pritchard explores the German brand’s sparkling new addition

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W

PHOTO: ALBAYRAK-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM

hen it comes to classic European timepieces, few brands can match the reputation, variety or quality of Wempe. The Hamburg-based family company, which offers its own standout designs as well as a multitude of watches from top international brands, has become an authority on all things horological. In recent years, however, Wempe’s jewellery line has also been turning heads, and with good reason.

The By Kim jewellery range has opened a new chapter in the company’s 135-year history.

It is named after the brand’s charismatic chief executive officer, Kim-Eva Wempe, greatgranddaughter of founder Gerhard Wempe, and the latest collection marks a landmark achievement for the brand, as it launches its very own signature diamond cut.

‘For us as a company, the Wempe-Cut® is a milestone in the development of the jewellery brand,’ explains Anja Heiden, who sits on the Wempe board of directors. ‘The diamond is the most important gemstone for us and with our own cut, we have not only proved our innovative strength and creativity in this field, but have also succeeded in creating

Every classic yet contemporary piece

by Wempe has been considered down to the very last detail, and this commitment to true excellence shines through extraordinary added value for our customers.’

The development of the cut itself focused almost entirely on how best to exhibit the quality of the diamonds. All the diamonds are graded with the colour ‘rare white’ or ‘rare white +’ and are classified as either VVS or VS, 81 / 87

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Previous page: Wempe-Cut® diamond design sketch

S H O P | 53

two of the highest degrees of clarity.

During the design process, the diamond specialists at Wempe worked with the company’s master diamond cutters to develop a variety of potential cuts. As Heiden explains, ‘It absolutely had to be a round cut – and it had to

considerably increase the diamond’s brilliance and light reflection. Three prototypes were manufactured, based on our requirements. One fulfilled all of them and, moreover, it looked beautiful. That was the one to become the Wempe-Cut®.’

After each new Wempe-Cut® diamond is crafted, every individual stone is certified by Hoge Raad voor Diamant, the world-renowned certification authority and gemmology institute in Antwerp. During this process, some of the world’s leading diamond experts inspect each stone to determine its cut, colour, clarity and carat – the hallowed four Cs on which the diamond industry is built. All the rough stones are certified by the United Nations Kimberley Process, an international scheme that ensures diamonds are appropriately sourced.

The new cut, which appears for the first time in By Kim’s latest jewellery collection Splendora, features a total of 137 facets – an increase from 57 facets in Wempe’s brilliant-cut gems. The 18-carat white gold setting is

Above (clockwise from top lef): Kim-Eva Wempe; the brand’s Frankfurt store; Splendora By Kim ring, featuring the Wempe-Cut® diamond; a pendant from the same collection

elegant and understated, ensuring the main focus of the Splendora line is undoubtedly the Wempe-Cut® diamond. The line comprises three standout pieces: a ring, earrings and a pendant. Each features Wempe-Cut® diamonds of either one, 1.4 or two carats in a four-prong setting, the interior of which features 16 further brilliant-cut 0.09-carat diamonds.

Heiden and the designers at Wempe are set to include the cut across a much wider array of pieces, including bespoke jewellery for some of their most discerning clients. ‘Splendora is the first By Kim line that we will present with the exclusive Wempe-Cut®,’ Heiden explains, ‘but it is certainly not the last. Customers may also have the Wempe-Cut® set in any other setting of their choice.’

This flexibility and open-mindedness, and constant consideration of clients’ wishes, keeps Wempe at the forefront of its field. The brand builds on its long history by constantly pushing forward, enthusiastically pursuing new ideas and new ways to convey its elegant, luxury aesthetic. From the exquisite WempeCut® diamonds to the classic yet contemporary jewellery in which they are set, every piece by Wempe has been considered down to the last detail, and this commitment to true excellence shines through Above (from top): a selection of diamonds in the Wempe workshop; By Kim Splendora earrings; Wempe-Cut® diamonds

PHOTO: (MIDDLE) MATTHIAS HOFFMANN

54 | F E AT U R E S

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56 | E X P E R I E N C E

SWEET THING Gourmet ice cream is the flavour of the summer in Frankfurt, as Isabella Redmond Styles explains

There aren’t many foods that say summer more than ice cream. The refreshing treat has been enjoyed for centuries – it’s said that Alexander the Great enjoyed snow and ice favoured with honey. However, it wasn’t until the late 16th century that sorbets, followed by ice cream as we know it – using milk, cream, butter and eggs – really began to be made.

Today, the best ice cream parlours are not afraid to experiment with unconventional ingredients and unusual favour combinations, alongside classic options such as vanilla, chocolate and strawberry. The quality of the raw ingredients remains paramount, with many of Frankfurt’s ice cream makers using top-quality organic produce, often locally sourced, alongside seasonal fruit.

What’s more, many producers are only too happy to cater to diferent tastes and dietary requirements, whether that means gluten-free cones or a vegan chocolate sorbet, meaning that no one has to miss out on a refreshing summertime scoop. globalblue.com

S H O P | 57

PHOTO: THOMAS JUPA

EIS CHRISTINA

Family-run Eis Christina has been providing Frankfurt with a taste of authentic Italian ice cream for more than 40 years. Everything is made to exacting standards using the finest ingredients – with absolutely no preservatives or artificial colours – including fruit frozen as soon as possible after it is picked to retain all the flavour. As well as the regular menu, the café also serves up extravagant ice cream sundaes or ‘bowls’, lavishly decorated with fruit, nuts and sauces. Look out, too, for the Spaghetti dishes, fashioned out of strands of ice cream topped with indulgent sweet sauces.

Eis Christina, Eckenheimer Landstrasse 78, 60318 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 598452, eischristina.de

59 | E X P E R I E N C E

DULCE

PHOTO: DIANA YING

Run by Frankfurt couple Babs and Matthias Schneider, Dulce is truly a delight for the sweet toothed. The welcoming café is known for its fantastic chocolates, delicious cakes and skilfully made coffee and shakes. However, it’s the ice cream that’s the star of the show during the summer months. The owners have travelled the world in search of the perfect scoop and, as a result, visitors can expect ice cream that’s made according to traditional, artisanal methods using only high-quality natural ingredients. Flavours incorporate Dulce’s delicious chocolate as well as seasonal fruits.

Dulce, Schweizer Strasse 43, 60594 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 3470 0131, dulceice.de

BIZZI ICE Bizzi Ice is committed to using only the best organic products. The company favours a traditional, handcrafted approach to making ice cream – no additives are included, and recipes are kept simple to allow the quality of the natural ingredients to shine through. Bizzi Ice works closely with its local suppliers, and uses globalblue.com

organic milk, cream, sugar and eggs for each of its flavours. Expect classics such as vanilla, chocolate and pistachio alongside more adventurous options including almond and cardamom, as well as a highly refreshing pineapple and coriander sorbet.

Bizzi Ice, Wallstrasse 26, 60594 Frankfurt, bizzi-ice.com

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Lichtentaler

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G U I D E | 61

THE GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Frankfurt with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a fine jewellery store to unmissable multi-brand fashion boutiques. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our welltravelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/frankfurt.

PHOTO: XXXX

A Glimpse of Frankfurt

Above: half-timbered buildings in Römerberg, the city hall square, with the spire of the Kaiserdom behind

62 | G U I D E

FRANKFURT SHOP HIGHLIGHTS Villeroy & Boch

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Snap up German porcelain maker Villeroy & Boch’s high-quality tableware and homeware.

Karstadt, Zeil 90, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 929050, villeroy-boch.com

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August Pfüller Find the perfect outfit for the new season at August Pfüller, one of the city’s best-loved multibrand stores.

August Pfüller, Goethestrasse 15-17, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 1337 8060, august-pfueller.de

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Interconti Hotel Le Meridien Savoy Hotel

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Roomers Design Hotel

Enjoy the upbeat appeal of Wellendorff’s Moments of Delight jewellery collection.

Wellendorff, Goethestrasse 4, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9203 8020, wellendorff.com

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Discover the work of a wide array of talented independent local designers at Designe Kleine.

Designe Kleine, Wallstrasse 26, 60594 Frankfurt, +49 (0)177 451 6824, designe-kleine.de

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AESOP Naturally minded skincare brand Aesop recently opened its first Frankfurt flagship.

Each of Aesop’s stores is designed with its location in mind; the Frankfurt branch fuses the brand’s signature style with influences from Germany’s natural landscapes. Shades of green reflect the country’s forests and woods, and are complemented by solid walnut. Visitors can explore the complete range of Aesop skin, hair and bodycare products, made with a mix of botanical ingredients and those crafted in state-of-theart laboratories by skincare experts.

Aesop,

Kaiserstrasse 20, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9288 2744, aesop.com

Am Hauptbahnhof, Kaiserstrasse & Rossmarkt A SSE

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CONRAD Choosing the right electronic and technology products can be a bit of a minefield, but specialist retailer Conrad is known for its practical solutions. Well equipped to deal with the needs of both businesses and individuals, Conrad stocks many premium technology brands, including Apple, Microsoft, Philips and Samsung. The company has stores across Germany, including one in Frankfurt, and is renowned for its knowledgeable members of staff, who will be on hand to help you whether you’re looking for a new tablet or a power-tool kit.

Conrad,

Zeil 58-64, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)9604 408789, conrad.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 66

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Zeil, Neue Kräme, Hasengasse & Braubachstrasse SELECTED STORES IN MYZEIL:

Elleez Lloyd El Rayyan Nanu Nana G-Star New Era G-Star Raw New York Elleez Gabor Nugloss SSE RA T S Gant I C H O2 BLE Intertoys Odlo Gravis One Green Guess Elephant Kpochs Parfümerie Hollister Albrecht Immergrün Pandora Intertoys Passionata Kamera Peak Performance Kult Pepe Jeans Lego Princesse Tam Tam Le Petit - Palais S T E P H A N S T R A SPromod SE

GROSSE FRIEDB ERGER STR A SS E

Accessorize Adidas Neo Anlissa Anson’s Bathelt Bench Biba Bijou Brigitte Bose Comma Crocs Ecco Elbenwald

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SANITÄTSHAUS RAAB ● BABY WALZ ● SPORT SCHECK ● ● CHRIST ● PRIMA RK

CENTRUM APOTHEKE ●

JUWELIER AppelrathCüpper ● PLETZSCH ● BRAND & MORE P.39 DOUGLAS ● ● FOOT LOCKER MANGO ● ● H&M PROMOD ● ● SUNGLASS HUT ● ADIDAS MyZeil ● NEW YORKER BERSHKA ● SKAGEN ● ● DEICHMANN CLAIRE'S ● HIRSCH SWAROWSKI ● ● APOTHEKE BENETTON ● ● SALAMANDER ● TOM TAILOR

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Zeil Galerie

Galeria Kaufof

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ZARA ● JUWELIER KRÄMER ● PIMKIE ●

● LEDER STOLL FRANKFURTER ● IDEE ● LAUFSHOP

SELECTED STORES IN ZEIL GALERIE: Go Mobile Samsung

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Reno Replay Rewe Run² Runners Point S Oliver Sacha Saturn Scout 4 You Sidestep Skagen Superdry The North Face The Sting Vero Moda Vodafone WMF

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AUGENOPTIK THORMANN ● ● RAILSLIDE MORE FOR LESS ● ICE WATCH BEN RA MAGGI HAUS ● ● (RUNNING BEAR) HG C S BIRKENSTOCK ● HI R ● ASCHENPUTTEL ER N I SWAROVSKI ● ● JACK WOLFSKIN GEWÜRZE/TEEHAUS ● SCHNORR ZWILLING ● WERTH & WERTH ●

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Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

Department Store

SINCE 1897

Welcome to Pletzsch, one of Germany`s most traditional jewelers.

We look forward to your visit!

Mrs. Tao is glad to be at your disposal at any time.

You will fnd an overwhelming selection of luxury watch brands and exquisite jewellery.

Constellation

Frankfurt / Zeil 81 – Tel. +4969281655 www.pletzsch.de

68 | G U I D E

BUCHERER Bucherer has been known for excellence since it opened its first watch and jewellery boutique in Lucerne in 1888, and today it has stores across the globe. Watch lovers will be interested by the company’s long partnership with Rolex, thanks to which it offers an unrivalled selection of the brand’s watches.

Bucherer’s own range of fine jewellery is also definitely not to be missed. Look out for the exquisite La Cerise collection, which includes these ultra-feminine earrings with their intricate decoration of diamonds and tourmalines.

Bucherer, Kaiserstrasse 1, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 138820, bucherer.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 65

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Bailly Diehl has seven stores in and around Frankfurt, and is known for its edit of high-quality on-trend clothing for men and women. Thanks to the vision of owner Michael Bailly, the boutiques offer brands

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AU G U STIO A RM A N I ● ● CA M PF 7 FO R A PE LL M A NÜ LL ER ● ● BU LG R KI N D ● A RI ● V ER TU LO RO PID IO R ● ANA ● ● P IC A RD CA RT IE R ● JU W EL IE ● AU G U R FR D ST PF Ü LL ER RI CH P.28 IE P.36 ● CH A PR A DA ● ● ● W EMN EL LI N DA ● ● LO N GPE AI G N ER ● JA EG CH A M P ● ● W EL ER LE -C O U LO U IS V G U CC I ● ● H U BLLE N D O RF F LT RE U O T P. M A SS IM IT TO N ● 38 P.39 O D U TT I ● ● AU BA D E G O E T BE LS TA FF HEPL A ● TZ ● SA LV AT O RE FE RR AG AMO G O E TH

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S H O P | 71

such as M Missoni, Tagliatore and Woolrich, alongside the house’s own line. This season look out for luxe leather pieces by in-demand German label Steven-K. Bailly Diehl, Steinweg 8, 60313 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 282732, bailly-diehl.de

Goethestrasse & Steinweg FS TR AS SE

OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sundays and public holidays: closed For special opening times please visit the website

72 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP WERTHEIM VILLAGE Wertheim Village, just 50 minutes from Frankfurt city centre, is perfectly located for locals and international visitors alike. The Village’s design reflects its tranquil surroundings, with traditional scallop-tiled

roofing and turrets that echo nearby vineyard-clad hills and local villages. The Village plays host to more than 110 designer boutiques from both German and international labels, all of which offer up to 60%

savings on normal retail prices.

Wertheim Village, Almosenberg, 97887 Wertheim, +49 (0)9342 919 9100, wertheimvillage.com, chicoutletshopping.com

FRANKFURT FRANKFURT CENTRAL STATION A3

A3

A3 Wertheim Village WERTHEIM TOWN STATION

HOW TO GET THERE

By Car From Frankfurt head to Würzberg on the A3. Take exit 66 signposted Wertheim/ Lengfurt. The drive takes approximately 50 minutes from Frankfurt city centre.

Train Station

Outlet Village

By Train Regular trains run to Wertheim town from Frankfurt’s central station, Nuremberg and Würzberg. Then take the free shuttle bus to Wertheim Village from Monday to Saturday. Collect your ticket from the tourist information office in Wertheim town.

By Shopping Express The Shopping Express® luxury coach service takes visitors from Frankfurt to Wertheim Village and back, departing from the city’s main train station, 20B, bus stops 7-9, from Monday to Saturday. For further information and to book, visit chicoutletshopping.com.

S H O P | 73

MY PERFECT DAY XIMENA DANERI , SHOP’S FASHION EDITOR, DESCRIBES HER PERFECT DAY AT WERTHEIM VILLAGE 10am Start your day at German label Drykorn. The brand is known for setting the trends; expect bright colours, bold prints and a finish of the highest quality.

11am Lagerfeld’s boutique offers the complete ready-towear men’s collection and range of accessories, all infused with Karl Lagerfeld’s signature style.

DON’T MISS… FIVE-STAR SERVICES The village offers a range of VIP services including:

Wi-Fi • Free parking • Free personal shopper (on request) • ATourist information • A children’s playground •

SHOPPING PACKAGES Various packages are available at the Village. Packages can be booked via the Village’s website and services can include:

tickets from central Frankfurt to the village on the Shopping • Return Express® luxury coach Wertheim Village Shopping Card to be spent at a boutique • Aof€25 your choice at the Village • An exclusive gift • Lunch with small soft drink at La Piazza restaurant at the Village globalblue.com

1pm Stop for lunch at Prime.

The restaurant offers a range of high-quality dishes including burgers, fresh salads and daily specials, served in an urban-chic environment.

3pm Steiff’s trademark ear button makes its high-quality teddy bears instantly recognisable. The range also includes dogs, cats and pigs.

6pm End your day by admiring the craftsmanship displayed in Bally’s exquisite leather goods collection.

Pieces offer the highest quality as well as contemporary styling.

74 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP OUTLETCITY METZINGEN Outletcity Metzingen is one of Europe’s most popular outlet centres. With over 70 top international brands available at reductions of up to 70%, the stylish centre attracts 3.5 million visitors per year.

Outletcity Metzingen, Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen, +49 (0)7123 925326, outletcity.com

OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Saturday: 9am-8pm (Hugo Boss: 8am-8pm)

PERFECT DAY 10am Start your day perusing the sportswear collection on offer at Peak Performance; the label is known for combining functionality and style.

FRANKFURT A5

A5

12pm Take a break at the Keim bakery to enjoy coffee and cake or a freshly made sandwich.

2pm Hugo Boss collections strike the perfect balance between fashion and function.

4pm Diane von Furstenberg produces pieces that radiate elegance – the printed wrap dress is a wardrobe classic.

6pm End your trip at Samsonite. This esteemed luggage manufacturer is known for top-quality, durable and surprisingly lightweight suitcases.

Outlet Village

A5

A8

STUTTGART A8

Outletcity Metzingen

HOW TO GET THERE

By Car Enter Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen on your satellite navigation system. Take the A5 out of Frankfurt before joining the A8 to Metzingen. Take the exit toward Metzingen (B312) and take the L378A to Reutlinger Strasse.

Outletcity Metzingen is clearly signposted when you arrive in the town.

S H O P | 75

ZWEIBRÜCKEN THE STYLE OUTLETS Zweibrücken The Style Outlets is Germany’s largest outlet centre, with over 130 brands available at discounts of up to 70%. With free Wi-Fi, free parking and delicious restaurants and cafés, it’s the perfect place for a day trip.

Zweibrücken The Style Outlets, Londoner Bogen 10-90, 66842 Zweibrücken, +49 (0)6332 99390, thestyleoutlets.com

FRANKFURT A8 A8

A8 A8

Zweibrücken The Style Outlets

A8

HOW TO GET THERE

By Train Trains run from Saarbrücken to Zweibrücken station.

Visitors can then catch a bus to The Style Outlets.

By Bus Buses run from Zweibrücken to The Style Outlets every hour from Monday to Saturday.

By Car From Frankfurt, take the A8 motorway and then exit 34, which is signposted to the airport. The journey takes around 90 minutes.

globalblue.com

OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-7pm Sundays and public holidays: closed

PERFECT DAY 10am Admire the high quality and sophisticated craftsmanship displayed by Italian label Cerruti.

12pm Enjoy a traditional German meal at La Place restaurant.

2pm Petit Bateau’s childrenswear collections are sure to brighten up your afternoon with their whimsical designs and youthful take on French fashion.

3pm Villeroy & Boch is the perfect place to visit if you’re seeking elegant homeware.

Opt for the Classica range for timeless tableware.

5pm End your day at footwear boutique Peter Kaiser.

Expect a diverse collection that includes fine materials such as high-quality leather, soft suede and the most prestigious fabrics.

76

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

2. Claim

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.

Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Ofce Details

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Frankfurt Airport: Terminal 1, Level 2, Hall B, Landside Terminal 1, Level 2, Hall B, afer security control Terminal 2, Level 3, Hall D, Landside Terminal 2, Level 3, Hall D, afer security control Terminal 2, Level 3, Hall A, afer security control

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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 40: In Fine Shape

Голубая Мечта Немецкие производители традиционного фарфора собираются с силами, завоевывая новых поклонников с помощью инновационных технологий и гениального дизайна, – рассказывает Джош Симс Многие из нас до сих пор испытывают волнение, выставляя на стол сервиз перед очередными гостями, представьте же переживания тех, чьим гостем в далеком 18 веке был Иоганн Фридрих Карл фон Оштайн, архиепископ и курфюрст Майнца. Этот человек настолько серьезно был увлечен мечтами о качественном фарфоре, что решил основать производство прямо во Франкфурте, дабы обеспечить свою семью бесперебойным снабжением. В результате в 1746 была основана фабрика Höchst Porzellan (ныне – Höchster Porzellan-Manufaktur), одна из самых первых в Германии. Логотипом нового предприятия стало колесо, изображенное на гербе города Майнца. Этот символ до сих пор размещен на всей продукции компании, включая глазурованные и неглазурованные керамические изделия, художественнодекоративные изделия и, конечно, фарфоровую посуду. Помимо всего прочего, коллекции Höchster включают искусные репродукции наиболее знаменитых произведений, выпускавшихся фабрикой с начала 18 века. Популярность Höchster выходит далеко за рамки Франкфурта, однако компания отнюдь не одинока в своей индустрии. В Германии насчитывает немало всемирно известных производителей фарфора: от Meissen и Nymphenburg до Wagner & Apel, Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur и Lichte. Учитывая тот факт, что именно в Германии в 1708 году был раскрыт секрет изготовления китайского фарфора, неудивительно, что globalblue.com

немецкие компании считаются одними из лидеров в этой области. Джессика Раух – амбассадор Villeroy & Boch, еще одного немецкого производителя фарфора. Она полагает, что развитие столь сильной индустрии керамических изделий было вполне естественно. В те времена, когда инфраструктура не позволяла осуществлять доставку сырья на отдаленные расстояния, производители были вынуждены открывать производства прямо на месте его добычи. Так случилось, что территория Германии имеет богатые залежи каолина, кварца и полевого шпата – трех основных компонентов фарфора. Изобилие материала также помогло добиться высокого качества продукции: «такой фарфор обычно переходит по наследству от бабушек к внукам», – говорит Раух. «Конечно, для многих сложно понять разницу между настоящим фарфором и

79

продукцией массового производства, также как не просто отличить одежду по качеству хлопка, – добавляет она. – Качественный фарфор всегда имеет легкий кремовый оттенок, он более гладкий на оборотной стороне и даже звучит слегка иначе. Но главное отличие проявится лишь при использовании. Настоящий фарфор имеет неограниченный срок службы. Это своего рода инвестиция». Она подчеркивает, что последние десятилетия многие мелкие производители испытывают финансовые сложности, в то время как крупные компании смогли приспособиться благодаря внедрению новаторских идей. Но если для старшего поколения качественный сервиз служит показателем крепких семейных традиций, то для современной молодежи это очередная старомодная декорация, за исключением разве что винтажных приборов, украшенных цветочными мотивами, деревенскими пейзажами или золотой каймой. «Дело в том, что никто не хочет покупать новый сервиз каждый год. Большинству людей не требуется супница или шесть видов тарелок. Поэтому нам как индустрии приходится адаптироваться, – поясняет Раух, – нам нужно следить за новыми трендами. Популярно ли сейчас спагетти? Много ли людей живет в одиночестве? Отвечая на эти вопросы, мы меняем нашу стратегию. Нам нужно быть готовыми к тому моменту, когда людям наконец надоест Ikea». Наверное, поэтому бренды вроде Villeroy & Boch увеличили выпуск инновационной продукции, например, из смешанных материалов: фарфор со сланцем или фарфор с деревом. В свою очередь франкфуртская мануфактура Höchster начала сотрудничество с немецким дизайнером Вайтом Штрайтенбергером, который создает для компании поразительные современные интерпретации традиционного фарфора. Так, в коллекцию вошла современная кубистская ваза из серии Impressions, которая объединяется в

одно целое с традиционной вазой округлой формы, а также чаша конической формы с цветочными узорами 18 века, с которыми мог быть знаком фон Оштайн. Среди других экземпляров встречаются весьма необычные, к примеру, созданный Марио Эффенбергером керамический нож для открытия писем, получивший награду Frankfurt Messe Design Plus Award. В условиях динамичного рынка не каждое изделие одинаково востребовано. Декоративные фигурки, которые обычно украшают наши серванты, в последнее время стали в основном уделом коллекционеров и случайных покупателей. Хотя, кто знает, возможно, судьба и этих изделий скоро изменится благодаря очередной инновации талантливых немецких дизайнеров.

46: In Focus: Hugo Boss

Второй дом Немецкий модный дом Hugo Boss, костюмы которого известны на весь мир, бережно хранит свою впечатляющую историю и традиции, но при этом устремлен в будущее, – рассказывает Стивен Дойг Стильная штаб-квартира Hugo Boss в Метцингене полностью отражает характер этого бренда. Она находится в идиллическом немецком городе, полном традиционных бревенчатых фасадов и средневековых шпилей. Однако само здание представляет собой современную конструкцию из стекла и стали, окруженную тщательно ухоженными садами. Это настоящий бастион современности на фоне традиции. То же самое можно сказать и о бренде Hugo Boss: он завоевал репутацию благодаря актуальному свежему подходу в той сфере, где Германия никогда не была в авангарде. Несмотря на немецкое происхождение Карла Лагерфельда и бесспорное господство спортивных брендов Adidas и Puma, эта страна немногое может противопоставить модному влиянию Англии, Франции и Италии. Hugo Boss

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всегда стремился изменить эту ситуацию. История бренда началась в 1924 году с небольшого ателье. Перед основателем компании то и дело возникали самые разные препятствия. В его истории было даже банкротство, после которого все, что у него оставалось, – всего лишь шесть швейных машин. Но предприниматель был предан своему делу и, преодолевая сложности, упорно продолжал развивать бизнес. Спустя 90 лет со дня основания Hugo Boss стал одним из самых значительных и успешных модных брендов в мире. Под лейблами Hugo и Boss выпускаются многочисленные серии, возможности варьируются от сшитых на заказ костюмов до парфюмов, и в разных странах работает более 1000 магазинов. С годами фасоны поменялись, и знаменитый немецкий прагматизм помогает модному дому адаптироваться к переменам. Модную идентичность Hugo Boss определил деловой гардероб. В 1950-е компания начала выпускать мужские костюмы и прорабатывать технологичные подходы к globalblue.com

производству готовой одежды. Это стало важным преимуществом в эпоху, когда работа над качественным костюмом была длительной и кропотливой. Способность угадывать потребности бизнесменов (а позднее и женщинпредпринимателей) стала лейтмотивом всего, что создает Hugo Boss на протяжении многих лет, включая высокую моду. Истоки всеобщего внимания к бренду можно усмотреть в умении применять особый стиль Boss к разнообразным условиям на рынке. Коллекции всегда выглядят актуальными благодаря детально проработанным костюмам, удачным фасонам, точному крою и однобортными силуэтам. Основав диффузную линию Boss в 1970 году, компания расширила свое присутствие: эта одежда стала более доступной для тех, кто раньше не мог ее себе позволить. В 1998 состоялся дебют женской коллекции, в которой прослеживался ориентир на энергичный стиль – тренд нового времени: лаконичные свободные

PHOTO: BOSS

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платья и элегантные, женственные костюмы были адресованы аудитории нового типа. В наши дни Hugo Boss стремится к трендовому и динамичному образу более, чем когда-либо раньше. Это происходит с легкой руки нью-йоркского дизайнера Джейсона Ву, который соединил фирменную вневременную изысканность Hugo Boss с современностью. Джейсон Ву возглавляет женское направление с 2013 года. Молодой дизайнер, сторонник актуальной сдержанности, – подобный выбор может показаться неочевидным для немецкого бренда с большой традицией. Но именно он сумел заострить женскую коллекцию и органично вписаться в жизнь модного дома. В 2009 году первая леди США Мишель Обама выбрала творение Джейсона Ву для инаугурационного бала своего мужа. Тем самым, она подтвердила репутацию Ву как мастера сдержанной элегантности. На протяжении девяти десятилетий Hugo Boss совершенствовался в этой эстетике, и фигура Ву не могла остаться незамеченной.

Когда директор по брендам Hugo Boss, Кристоф Аухаген, обратился к нему с предложением занять пост в компании, первой мыслью Ву стал вопрос «почему я?»: «Выбор показался мне очень странным, – поделился он. – Я считал Boss брендом мужской одежды и не был осведомлен о женской линии, которой всего 15 лет». Дизайнера впечатлил современный дух штаб-квартиры Boss в Метцингене, которую он назвал «похожей на декорации к фильму «Гаттака». И сделка состоялась. С момента присоединения к команде Ву уже успел заострить стиль и сделать его более точным. В его новую коллекцию вошли белоснежные блузы, платья приглушенного серого и голубого оттенков, черные минималистские комплекты и мягкие желтые топы и платья с открытыми лопатками. Осенью 2015 года Hugo Boss спонсировал фирменную гоночную яхту. Ее оформлением занимался уважаемый промышленный дизайнер Константин Грчич. В 2016 году эта лодка под управлением рекордсмена Алекса Томсона будет участвовать в парусной гонке Vendée Globe. Постоянно растущий ассортимент и сеть бутиков, Ву на посту креативного директора, а теперь еще и морская навигация – очень соблазнительно назвать Hugo Boss большим кораблем с большим плаванием впереди. Пусть это звучит неоригинально, но так и есть: перед этим модным домом открыты все горизонты.

50: Making The Cut

Новая грань

Руайрид Притчард рассказывает о фирменной огранке бриллиантов Wempe, премьера которой состоялась в новой ювелирной коллекции бренда Семейная компания Wempe, основанная в Гамбурге, на протяжении многих лет удерживает лидерские позиции в часовом деле. Ее предложения включает как часы собственной разработки, так и модели иностранных брендов. Умело сочетая репутацию, качество и разнообразие, Wempe сохраняет статус непререкаемого

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авторитета, когда речь идет о часах. При этом в последние годы все чаще обращает на себя внимание и ювелирная линия этого бренда, и на то есть веские причины. С ювелирной серии By Kim началась новая глава в 135-летней истории Wempe. Она получила свое названа в честь харизматичного исполнительного директора компании Ким-Евы Вемпе, праправнучки основателя Герхарда Вемпе. Новая коллекция Splendora в этой серии ознаменовала важный момент в истории бренда: Wempe представляет собственную бриллиантовую огранку. «Для нас как для компании WempeCut® – это веха в развитии ювелирного направления, – объясняет Ана Хайден, член совета директоров Wempe. – Алмаз – самый важный для нас камень. А благодаря собственной огранке, мы не только демонстрируем творческий подход и созидательную силу в своей сфере, но и предлагаем необыкновенную дополнительную ценность нашим клиентам». Все алмазы, с которыми работает этот ювелирный дом, относятся к группам rare white и rare white+ по цвету, а также соответствуют самым высоким степеням чистоты VVS и VS. Поэтому разрабатывая новую огранку, Wempe стремится продемонстрировать высокое качество драгоценного камня. Варианты прорабатывали лучшие эксперты по бриллиантам и огранщики из мастерских Wempe. «Со всей определенностью огранке нужно было придать круглую форму. Она должна была существенно улучшить естественный блеск алмаза и игру света. В соответствии с этими требованиями были созданы три прототипа. И один из них удовлетворял сразу всем задачам, более того, он чудесно смотрелся. Он и стал Wempe-Cut®», – комментирует Хайден. После обработки каждый бриллиант с огранкой Wempe-Cut® проходит обязательную сертификацию геммологического института Hoge Raad voor Diamant в Антверпене, чья экспертиза признана во всем мире. В globalblue.com

рамках сертификации специалисты мирового уровня исследуют каждый камень в лаборатории и подтверждают его огранку, цвет, чистоту и каратность – главные показатели в бриллиантовой индустрии. Необработанные алмазы также проходят сертификацию по специальной международной системе United Nations Kimberley Process, которая подтверждает правильное происхождение камней.

Wempe-Cut® подразумевает 137 граней, что существенно больше традиционных 57, применяемых к драгоценным камням Wempe. Коллекция Splendora удостоилась чести впервые представить новую огранку аудитории. Оправа из белого золота 750 пробы выглядит спокойно и лаконично, и это еще раз подтверждает, что в центре внимания компании теперь бриллиант Wempe-Cut®. Коллекцию образует комплект из кольца, серег и подвески. Акцентом каждого предмета стал бриллиант Wempe-Cut® одного, 1,4 или двух карат. Во внутреннюю часть оправы с четырьмя зубцами дополнительно встроено 16 ограненных бриллиантов 0,09 карат. Хайден и дизайнеры Wempe готовятся использовать бриллианты с фирменной огранкой и в других украшениях, в том числе – в выполненных на заказ для самых взыскательных клиентов. «Splendora – это первая линия By Kim с эксклюзивной огранкой Wempe-Cut®, – объясняет Хайден.

– И конечно, не последняя. Кроме того, заказчики смогут выбирать и другую оправу для Wempe-Cut® на свой вкус». Гибкость, открытость и пристальное внимание к пожеланиям клиентов – вот что удерживает Wempe на лидерских позициях. Опираясь на богатую историю, этот бренд неуклонно двигается вперед. Он всегда с энтузиазмом приветствует новые идеи и возможности транслировать свою элегантную эстетику. Бриллианты с оригинальной огранкой WempeCut®, классические, но современные украшения, – Wempe прорабатывает все до мельчайших деталей. И эта преданность своему мастерству освещает каждое творение бренда.

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76: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free

PHOTO: VILLEROY & BOCH AG

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. 美文翻译

40: In Fine Shape 瓷之韵 德国的传统瓷器制造商势头强劲，以创新技术和新 颖设计俘获众多拥趸。Josh Sims带您深入了解 若说时至今日为宴请宾客而寻找上好的瓷器会让你 徒生压力，那就更不要提在十八世纪为美因茨大主 教兼选帝侯 Johann Friedrich Karl von Ostein准

备一场完美宴会该有多焦头烂额了。这位大主教对 陶瓷餐具的要求极其严苛，甚至特批一家制造商在 法兰克福进行生产，就为确保家中能有源源不断的 优质瓷器。 Höchst Porzellan（现名：Höchster Porzellan-Manufaktur）便于1746年应运而生，如 今它已成为德国历史最悠久的瓷器制造商之一。为 了向赞助者致敬，该品牌在其商标设计中采用了美 因茨轮元素，今时今日其制造的白釉素烧瓷器、上 釉陶瓷、陶瓷装饰品和餐具上都会出现这个标志。 美因茨轮仅是品牌创建以来流传至今的众多特色之 一，Höchster的瓷器系列还包括若干十八世纪经典 陶瓷的复制品。 Höchster在法兰克福一带声名显赫，然 而与Höchster不相上下的瓷器翘楚在德国比 比皆是。德国拥有众多享誉全球的高档瓷器制 造商，Meissen、Nymphenburg、Wagner & Apel、Königliche Porzellan-Manufaktur、Lichte 等诸多品牌不胜枚举。德国人早在1708年就掌握了 如何制造紧俏的中国陶瓷，无怪乎有这么多德国陶 瓷品牌让收藏家赞不绝口。 Jessika Rauch是德国瓷器品牌Villeroy & Boch的品牌大使。在她看来，德国的陶瓷产业发展 如此蓬勃再正常不过了。彼时的陶瓷制造商缺少长 途运输原材料的设备，只能就地建厂开工。此外，德 国的大部分地区高岭土、石英和长石资源丰富，这 是瓷器制造最关键的三大原材料，因而德国出产的

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陶瓷也异常精美坚固， “就像祖母传给你的瓷器那 样， ”Rauch说道。 “当然，有些人会看不出批量生产的餐具和精 美瓷器之间的差别，就像他们也不大看得出一种棉 料和另一种棉料的差别， ”Rauch补充道。 “上等瓷 器常带有奶油般的色泽，底部细腻而绝不粗糙。如 果你真的了解瓷器，就会知道不同的瓷器甚至发出 的声响也不一样。但在使用过程中，你才会真切感 受到瓷器的质量。上等瓷器经久耐用，无异于一笔 投资。” 她强调，近几十年来，德国许多小型瓷器制造 商财务危机重重，但大型制造商却通过必要的转型 取得了成功。高品质的瓷器颇受老一代人的青睐， 但在年轻人眼里却可能落伍过时，不过那些饰有花 朵图案、乡村风景或金边的古董却在某些地区风靡 一时。 “现实情况是，没有人会每年换一套新的陶 瓷餐具。现在大多数人不再需要大盖碗或六件套 餐盘。所以作为全国性的产业，我们需要顺势而 为， ”Rauch解释道。 “人们现在是不是吃更多的意大 利面？是不是越来越多的人独自生活？我们必须顺 应这些潮流，生产更现代化的产品。等人们逛腻了宜 家，我们就必须做好准备。” 这就是为什么Villeroy & Boch等品牌生产 越来越多的创新型瓷器，例如陶瓷与板岩、陶瓷 与木头的混合型瓷器。这也就是为什么法兰克福 的Höchster与同样居住在法兰克福的设计师 Veit Streitenberger合作，为传统的陶瓷赋予截然不同 的现代理念。Höchster以传统的小号形花瓶重新诠 释现代的立体派花瓶，锥形碗借鉴了18世纪花朵浮 雕餐盘的诸多元素，这种浮雕餐盘美因茨大主教可 能再熟悉不过了。其他的瓷器作品更加出人意料：例 如Mario Efenberger操刀设计并荣获Frankfurt Messe Design Plus Award奖项的陶瓷开信刀。 在这个生机勃勃的市场，并不是每一样小玩意 儿都能占有一席之地。众所周知，随着家庭装潢越来 越现代化，小型的装饰雕像已完全属于收藏品或仅 在特殊情况下才会购买的物件。过不了多久，古老的 德国手工业一定也会让这些商品重获新生。

46: In Focus: Hugo Boss 聚焦：Hugo Boss 这个尊贵的德国品牌，以制造西服享誉全球，在 传承光辉历史的同时——仍将视野牢牢聚焦于未 来，Stephen Doig报道

Hugo Boss的总部位于麦琴根，这座夺人眼球的建 筑是品牌精神的体现。其设计理念是装在巧克力盒 里浓缩的典型德国小镇，有着半木结构外墙和中世 globalblue.com

纪尖顶，品牌的神经中枢则位于以严格标准修剪的 花园内，是一栋以反光玻璃和钢结构打造的建筑： 一座以鲜明现代性对抗传统的堡垒。这句描述同样 适用于Hugo Boss品牌本身，因其以新鲜、摩登的设 计，在一片历史上从未处于时尚前沿的市场上打开 局面而闻名。即便卡尔·拉格菲尔德来自德国，领先 运动服装品牌如阿迪达斯和彪马源于德国，德国在 时尚产业完全不能与英国、法国和意大利匹敌。 Hugo Boss一直试图改变这种状况。品牌于 1924年成立时只是一间小服装公司；其同名创始 人面临重重障碍，包括经历了一场名下只留下六台 缝纫机的破产。这位决心如铁的商人克服万难，稳 步扎实地建立自己的品牌。今日，在成立仅仅90年 后，Hugo Boss已发展为全球规模最大、最成功的 时尚品牌之一，在Hugo与Boss品牌旗下，拥有数条 产品系列，经营范围从定制西服到香氛无所不包， 并在世界各地拥有超过1000家门店网络。 虽然在过去的岁月中风格已有所改变，品牌也 适应了德国特色的实用主义，职场衣橱的美誉最终 成就了Hugo Boss的时尚身份。在1950年，品牌开 始推出男装西服，并开发出可大批量生产成衣的创 新工艺——在那个制作优质西服需要痛苦漫长过程 的年代，堪称极具影响力的技术。 品牌拥有取悦男性商务人士的天分——而后， 就是女性商务人士——这对于Hugo Boss多年来 的设计有着根深蒂固的潜在影响，包括其高级时装 线，品牌的普遍吸引力从其以Boss招牌款式迎合不 同市场的能力中可见一斑。品牌的走秀系列洋溢着 摩登的调子，包括时髦的西服、无可匹敌的剪裁、窄 身廓形与单排扣款式。当Boss副线系列在1970年推 出时，品牌继续扩大其覆盖面，让那些之前被奢侈品 高昂售价挡在门外的顾客也成为受众。1998年，品 牌的女装系列首次亮相，大胆直击气场着装的新趋 势：通勤连衣裙与优雅、时尚、女性化的西服套装， 响应这批新受众的需求。 如今，品牌相较以往更为入时与动感。这在很 大程度上归功于纽约设计师吴季刚（Jason Wu）， 他以当代手法完整诠释了Hugo Boss品牌的精致细 腻。吴季刚自2013年起担任女装创意总监起，将这 条产品线带往清晰明确的时髦新方向。一位以低调 奢华设计著称的、年轻现代的设计师，对这个91岁 的德国传统品牌而言或许有些奇怪，但他早已成为 家喻户晓的名字。2009年，当美国第一夫人米歇尔· 奥巴马选择穿着吴季刚的设计参加丈夫的就职舞 会，她再次巩固了吴季刚作为低调优雅大师的美誉， 使其成为这个以九十年时间塑造相近美学理念之品 牌的完美舵手。 当被Hugo Boss的首席品牌官Christoph Auhagen接洽并邀请其担任该职位时，吴季刚的 第一个念头是“为什么是我？”。 “这看似是最怪异

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的组合， ”他说。 “我一直以为Boss只是一个男装品 牌，对于只有15年历史的女装系列并不熟悉。” 吴 季刚被打动的部分原因是Boss麦琴根总部令人动 容的摩登建筑，他将其描述为“《千钧一发》电影场 景”—— 于是他与品牌达成了共识。自加入品牌旗 下，吴季刚为其增添了几分犀利与酷感。他带来的最 新系列，包括冰白色层叠褶皱与衬衣、暗灰色与鸽子 色连衣裙、时髦黑色极简礼服与柔软的黄色工字背 上衣与连衣裙。 还有更多证据能展现Hugo Boss的宏图未 来。在2015年秋天品牌冠名赞助了一艘竞赛帆 船。这艘船上的图案，由备受尊崇的工业设计大 师Konstantin Grcic设计，将会参加2016年的 Vendée Globe帆船赛，由屡破纪录的水手Alex Thomson驾驶。在吴季刚担任创意总监后，Hugo Boss的产品系列与门店数量都不断扩张，如今加上 对航海事业的新热情，Hugo Boss就如同扬帆远 航的旗舰。虽然听上去有些陈词滥调，但依然千真 万确——这是一间将目光牢牢聚焦于远方地平线 的公司。 吸引着像他一样的其他人来到柏林；许多世界 上最激动人心的时尚设计，也正是因此才得以诞 生。

50: Making The Cut 完美切割

Wempe发布了独一无二的钻石切工术。Ruairidh Pritchard带您深入了解这家德国品牌的最新亮点 说到经典欧洲时计，少有品牌能在声望、种类和质量 上与Wempe相较。这家扎根于汉堡的家族企业如今 已成为钟表界之权威，不仅经营自家设计的精品时 计，也销售各大顶级国际品牌的腕表。不过，近些年 来，Wempe的珠宝系列同样收获了不少赞誉。

By Kim珠宝系列为品牌135年的历史开启了全 新的篇章。该系列以品牌创始人Gerhard Wempe 的曾孙女、现任首席执行官Kim-Eva Wempe之名 命名；最近，By Kim 还发布了独一无二的钻石切 工，堪称Wempe品牌的重要里程碑。 “对于公司而言，Wempe-Cut ®是我们珠宝 品牌发展的一大里程碑， ”Wempe董事会成员Anja Heiden解释道。 “钻石是我们最重要的宝石，通过 我们的自主切割，我们不仅证明了Wempe在珠宝领 域中的创新实力和创造力，也成功为我们的顾客带 来了无与伦比的附加价值。” Wempe-Cut®的研发重心几乎全部集中于 如何最好地呈现钻石的品质。所有的钻石都有严 格分级，以颜色而论，可分为“接近无色” （rare white）或“无色” （rare white +）；从净度的层面

来说，VSS（极微瑕级）和VS（瑕疵级）则是最高的 两个等级。 在设计过程中，Wempe的钻石专家与公司的钻石 切割大师携手，共同研究各种可能的切割方式。正 如Heiden所说， “我们必须要采用圆形切割——而 且还要显著提高钻石的明亮度和反光程度。根据 要求，我们生产了三种原型。其中一种完美满足了 所有的要求，而且看上去精美绝伦，那就是现在的 Wempe-Cut®。” 打造完成之后，每一颗 Wempe-Cut ®钻石都 会由位于安特卫普的世界知名认证机构和宝石研究 机构Hoge Raad voor Diamant进行认证。在这一 过程中，多位世界顶尖钻石专家将仔细检查每一颗 钻石的切工（cut）、颜色（colour）、纯度（clarity） 和重量（carat）——也就是奠定整个钻石行业之 基的“4C标准”。此外，所有的毛坯钻石都将接 受联合国框架下的金伯利进程（United Nations Kimberley Process）认证，这一国际制度可确保钻 石是经合理开采而来。 在By Kim的最新珠宝系列Splendora中首次 亮相的全新切工共有137个刻面——相较Wempe 的57刻面明亮切割宝石有大幅提升。18 K的白金镶 嵌架低调而优雅，让Splendore系列的全部焦点都 集中于Wempe-Cut ®钻石身上。该系列包括三件引

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‫أنيق ومتواضع‪ ،‬ما يضمن تسليط‬ ‫من الذهب البيض ‪ 18‬قياطاً ٌ‬ ‫الضوء عل الاسة بشكل قطع ‪ .Wempe‬تشمل الجموعة ثلث‬ ‫مرصعة باسات‬ ‫قطعٍ مميّزة‪ :‬خاتاً وقرطي و ُحلية‪ّ .‬‬ ‫كل واحد ٍة منها ّ‬ ‫ذات قطع ‪ Wempe‬وتزن قياطاً واحدا ً أو ‪ 1.4‬قياط أو قياطي‬ ‫ضمن إطار رباعي الرؤوس يض ّم ‪ 16‬ماسة ب ّراقة القطع بوزن‬ ‫‪ 0.09‬قياط‪.‬‬ ‫تسعى ‪ Heiden‬والص ّممون إل استخدام القطع الجديد ف‬ ‫مجموع ٍة أوسع من التصاميم‪ ،‬با فيها الجوهرات الص ّممة بحسب‬ ‫الطلب لبعض أبرز زبائنهم‪ .‬تشح ‪ Heiden‬قائلة‪“ :‬ستكون‬ ‫مجموعة ‪ Splendora‬الخ ّط ال ّول لـ ‪ By Kim‬الذي نقدّم فيه‬ ‫قطع ‪ Wempe‬حصيّاً‪ ،‬ل ّك ّنه حتمً ليس الخي‪ .‬يكن أن يحصل‬ ‫أي إطار خاتم آخر يختارونه‪”.‬‬ ‫الزبائن عل قطع ‪ Wempe‬ف ّ‬ ‫بفضل هذه الرونة والنفتاح والهتمم الدائم برغبات‬ ‫الزبائن‪ ،‬تبقى ‪ Wempe‬ف الصدارة‪ .‬تواصل العلمة تاريخها‬ ‫والسبل الجديدة‬ ‫العريق من خلل الثابرة الدائة وتتبّع الفكار ُ‬ ‫بحمس ٍة لبراز أسلوبها النيق الفاخر‪ .‬من الاسات ذات القطع‬ ‫‪ Wempe‬الفريدة من نوعها إل الجوهرات الكلسيكيّة‬ ‫كل قطع ٍة ّ‬ ‫بأدق التفاصيل‬ ‫والعصيّة التي تحملها‪ ،‬تعتني الشكة ف ّ‬ ‫ويتجل هذا اللتزام بالتميّز بوضوح‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 76‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من‬ ‫‪ 270,000‬متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة‬ ‫الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫مكاتب الستداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ €25‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14.5%‬من ثن مشتياتك‪.‬‬

‫يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة‬ ‫عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬ف بعض الطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض‬ ‫رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت‬ ‫بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫‪人注目的作品：一枚戒指、一对耳饰和一枚坠饰。每‬‬ ‫® ‪一件单品都饰有1.4克拉或2克拉的Wempe-Cut‬‬ ‫‪钻石，以四爪台镶嵌，四爪台内还饰有16枚更加明亮‬‬ ‫。‪的0.09克拉小钻‬‬ ‫‪Heiden和Wempe旗下的设计师们打算将‬‬ ‫‪Wempe-Cut®切工用于各类作品，其中包括为‬‬ ‫。‪眼光最卓绝的顾客打造的定制珠宝‬‬ ‫‪“Wempe‬‬‫‪Cut®将在By Kim的Splendora系列当中首次亮‬‬ ‫‪相，‬‬ ‫‪”Heiden解释道，‬‬ ‫‪“但这肯定不会是它的最后一次‬‬ ‫‪亮相。顾客也可以随意选择将Wempe-Cut ®钻石镶‬‬ ‫”。‪嵌在其他产品之中‬‬ ‫‪如此灵活的设计、开放的思想和对顾客愿景的‬‬ ‫‪尊重让Wempe一直走在所涉领域的最前沿。品牌不‬‬ ‫‪断向前推进，以悠久的历史为根基，饱含热情地以‬‬ ‫。‪新颖的想法和方式传达其优雅而奢华的美学理念‬‬ ‫、‪从精致的Wempe-Cut ®钻石，到镶嵌着这些钻石‬‬ ‫‪经典而不失当代美感的珠宝，每一件作品的每一个‬‬ ‫‪细节都经过了设计师的深思熟虑，亦将Wempe对卓‬‬ ‫。‪越的不懈追求展露无余‬‬

‫‪76: When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free‬‬ ‫‪畅购全球，尊享退税‬‬ ‫‪当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，‬‬ ‫‪环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free‬‬ ‫。‪Shopping）为您节约购物开销‬‬ ‫‪每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global‬‬ ‫‪Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只‬‬ ‫‪是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联‬‬ ‫‪（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税‬‬ ‫‪过程：‬‬

‫‪1. 消费购物‬‬ ‫‪无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格‬‬ ‫‪（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小‬‬ ‫。‪票‬‬

‫‪2. 申请退税‬‬ ‫‪当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台‬‬ ‫‪请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联‬‬ ‫。‪的退税点领取您的退税款‬‬ ‫‪联系方式：‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫‪最低消费€25即可节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请‬‬ ‫‪注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管‬‬ ‫‪理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取‬‬ ‫。‪现金退税手续费‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫‪PHOTO: ALBAYRAK-PHOTOGRAPHY.COM‬‬

‫أنثوية أنيقة وراقية توجهت بوضوح إل جمهور جديد‪ .‬اليوم‪،‬‬ ‫أصبحت العلمة التجارية أكث حداثة وديناميكية من أي وقت‬ ‫مض‪ .‬ويعود الفضل الكبي ف ذلك ال مهارة الصمم القيم ف‬ ‫رقي وإبداع علمة ‪Hugo‬‬ ‫نيويورك ‪ ،Jason Wu‬الذي ط ّعم ّ‬ ‫‪ Boss‬بالحداثة‪ .‬وبفضل ‪ ،Wu‬وهومدير ابتكار اللبس النسائية‬ ‫منذ سنة ‪ ،2013‬بات هذا الخ ّط باهرا ً ومحدّدا ً للموضة‪ .‬قد يبدو‬ ‫هذا الصمم الشاب العاص الشهور بالناقة البسيطة دخيلً عل‬ ‫علمة تجارية ألانية عريقة انطلقت منذ ‪ 91‬سنة‪ ،‬لكنه أصبح من‬ ‫أهل الدار‪ .‬ع ّززت السيدة الميكية الول ‪Michelle Obama‬‬ ‫شهرة ‪ Jason Wu‬كسيّد الناقة البسيطة عندما اختارت ارتداء‬ ‫مم‬ ‫ثوب من تصميمه خلل حفل تنصيب زوجها سنة ‪ّ ،2009‬‬ ‫جعل منه رمزا مثالياً لعلمة تجارية أمضت تسعة عقود تتقن‬ ‫أسلوباً جمليّاًمم ثلً‪.‬‬ ‫عندما طلب منه الدير التنفيذي ‪ Christoph Auhagen‬أن‬ ‫يتول هذا النصب‪ ،‬أ ّول سؤال جال ف خاطر ‪ Wu‬كان‪“ :‬لَ أنا؟ بدا‬ ‫عرضاً غريباً ج ّدا ً إذ تُعر“ ‪ Boss‬عل أنّها علمة تجارية للملبس‬ ‫ملم جدًا بالقسم النسائ الذي أُ ّسس قبل ‪15‬‬ ‫الرجالية ولست ً‬ ‫عا ًما ل غي‪ ”.‬لكن من المور التي دفعت ‪ Wu‬إل قبول العرض‬ ‫كانت حداثة مقر‪ Boss‬البارزة ف ‪ Metzingen‬والتي يصفها‬ ‫بـ”موقع تصوير فيلم ‪ .”Gattaca‬منذ انضممه إل العلمة ‪،‬‬ ‫تكّن ‪ Wu‬من إضافة عنصي الدقّة والتميّز‪ .‬ض ّمت مجموعته‬ ‫الخية طبقات وقمصانٍ باللّلّون البيض الجليدي وفساتي باللّون‬ ‫ال ّرمادي الهادئ والفاتح وأثوابًا سوداء بسيطة وقمصاناً وفساتي‬ ‫مكشوفة الظهر جزئيّاً باللون الصفر الزاهي‪.‬‬ ‫وإن كنت تبحث عن الزيد من الدلة لتتأكد من تحقيق ‪Hugo‬‬ ‫‪ Boss‬مزيدا ً من النجاحات‪ ،‬نعلمك أنّها رعت يختاً يحمل إسمها‬ ‫ف خريف ‪ .2015‬سيشارك اليخت الزخر“ بأعمل الص ّمم‬ ‫الصناعي الرموق ‪ Konstantin Grcic‬ف سباق ‪Vendée‬‬ ‫مكس الرقام‬ ‫‪ Globe‬لليخوت لعام ‪ 2016‬بقيادة البحار ّ‬ ‫القياسية ‪ .Alex Thomson‬بفضل مدير البتكار ‪ Wu‬وعدد‬ ‫متزايد من النتجات والتاجر‪ ،‬أضف إل ذلك هذه التجربة البحرية‬ ‫الجديدة‪ ،‬يكن القول إ ّن ‪ Hugo Boss‬تبحر ال المام‪ .‬قد‬ ‫الحق يُقال إ ّن هذه الشكة تضع‬ ‫يبدو ذلك تكرارا ً وإسهاباً‪ ،‬لكن ّ‬ ‫الستقبل نصب عينيها‪.‬‬

‫تاريخ الشكة الذي يعود إل ‪ 135‬سنة‪ .‬تحمل الجموعة إسم‬ ‫الديرة التنفيذيّة التألّقة ‪ ،Kim-Eva Wempe‬إبنة حفيد‬ ‫ال”سس ‪ Gerhard Wempe‬وتشكّل الجموعة الخية إنجازا ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫خاصاً بها‪.‬‬ ‫محوريّاً للعلمة إذ أطلقت قَطعاً ّ‬ ‫تقول ‪ Anja Heiden‬من مجلس إدارة ‪:Wempe‬‬ ‫“بالنسبة إلينا كشكة‪ ،‬نعتب قطع ‪ ®Wempe-Cut‬حدثاً بارزا ً‬ ‫ف مسية ازدهار علمة الجوهرات‪ .‬الاس أه ّم حجر كريم لدينا‪،‬‬ ‫الخاص بنا‪ ،‬ل نبهن براعتنا وابتكارنا ف هذا الجال‬ ‫وبفضل القطع‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫فحسب‪ ،‬بل نجحنا ف تزويد زبائننا بقيمة إضافيّة استثنائيّة‪”.‬‬ ‫تحور تشكيل القطع عل الطريقة الفضل لظهار جودة‬ ‫كل الاسات بـ “البيض النادر” أو “البيض‬ ‫الاسات‪ .‬وقد ُحدّد لون ّ‬ ‫وص ّنفت بـ ‪ VVS‬أو ‪ VS‬وهم من أعل درجات‬ ‫النادر ‪ُ ”+‬‬ ‫الوضوح‪.‬‬ ‫ف خلل مرحلة التصميم‪ ،‬عمل خباء الاس لدى ‪Wempe‬‬ ‫مع أبرع قاطعي الاس ف الشكة ليبتكروا عددا ً من أشكال القطع‬ ‫الحتملة‪ .‬وعل ح ّد تعبي ‪“ :Heiden‬كان ل ب ّد أن يكون قطعاً‬ ‫‪Making The Cut :50‬‬ ‫دائري الشكل وأن يزيد نسبيّاً لعان الحجر وقدرته عل عكس‬ ‫قط ٌع استثنا ّئ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الضوء‪ .‬وبنا ًء عل شوطنا‪ ،‬ت ّم تصنيع ثلثة ناذج‪ .‬لبّى أحدهم‬ ‫الخاص بها‪ .‬يستكشف كافّة الشوط وبدا جميلً‪ ،‬فاختناه ليكون قطع ‪”.Wempe‬‬ ‫تحتفل علمة ‪ Wempe‬بإطلق قَطع الاس‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كل حجر شهادة من‬ ‫كل قطع جديد‪ُ ،‬ينح ّ‬ ‫بعد تشكيل ّ‬ ‫‪ Ruairidh Pritchard‬الضافة ال ّباقة الجديدة إل العلمة‬ ‫‪ ،Hoge Raad voor Diamant‬وهي السلطة العاليّة لصدار‬ ‫اللانيّة‬ ‫مختص بعلم الحجار الكرية ف أنتويرب‪ .‬ف‬ ‫الشهادات ومعهد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كل حجر‬ ‫خلل هذه العمليّة‪ ،‬يتف ّحص أبرز خباء الاس ف العال ّ‬ ‫ف مجال الساعات الوروبيّة الكلسيكيّة‪ ،‬قليل ٌة هي العلمات‬ ‫عل ِحدا ليحدّدوا القطع واللون والوضوح والوزن وهي الخصائص‬ ‫التجاريّة التي توازي ‪ُ Wempe‬سمع ًة أو تن ّوعاً أو جودةً‪ .‬تتّخذ‬ ‫التي يقوم عليها قطاع الاس‪ .‬كم تُصادق كافّة الحجار الخام من‬ ‫هذه الشكة العائليّة من هامبورغ مق ّرا ً لها وتعرض تصاميمها‬ ‫الفريدة من نوعها إل جانب ساعات من أفخر العلمات التجاريّة خلل عمليّة كمبل‪ ،‬النظام الدول الذي يضمن استخراج الاس‬ ‫بالسبل الصحيحة‪.‬‬ ‫كل أدوات قياس الوقت‪ .‬وف‬ ‫العاليّة فتبسط سيطرتها عل ّ‬ ‫السنوات الخية الاضية‪ ،‬لفت خ ّط الجوهرات لديها النظار‬ ‫يظهر القطع الجديد للم ّرة الول ف مجموعة ‪By Kim‬‬ ‫ولسبب وجيه‪.‬‬ ‫الخية للمجوهرات ‪ ،Splendora‬ويتألّف من ‪ 137‬وجهاً‪ ،‬أي‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫فتحت مجموعة الجوهرات ‪ By Kim‬صفحة جديدة ف‬ ‫زيادة عن الـ ‪ 57‬وجهاً ف أحجار ‪ Wempe‬ال ّباقة القطع‪ .‬الطار‬

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‫ربا تكون مج ّرد مسألة وقت حتّى يقوم أحد‬ ‫لناسبة مميّزة‪ .‬لكن ّ‬ ‫أقدم القطاعات الحرفيّة ف ألانيا بإعادة ابتكار هذه التمثيل أيضاً‪.‬‬ ‫‪:46‬‬

‫تحت الجهر‪:‬‬

‫‪In Focus:‬‬

‫تتباهى هذه العلمة التجارية اللانية الرموقة والعروفة ف جميع‬ ‫نصب‬ ‫أنحاء العال ببدلتها الميزة‪ ،‬بتاثها العريق واضع ًة الستقبل َ‬ ‫عينيها‪ ،‬تقرير ‪Stephen Doig‬‬ ‫يجسد مقر ‪ Hugo Boss‬الذهل ف ‪ Metzingen‬روح العلمة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التجارية‪ .‬ف حي يعكس موقعها سحر البلدة اللانية النموذجية‬ ‫من خلل واجهات خشبيّة جزئيّاً وقبب مسننة من القرون‬ ‫الوسطى‪ ،‬وقد اتّخذ مركز العلمة الرئيس شكل هيكلٍ فولذي‬ ‫مط ّعم بزجاج ل ّاع‪ ،‬وس َط حدائق مشذبة بدقة صارمة‪ :‬إنه رمز‬ ‫الحداثة البارزة ف وجه التقاليد‪ .‬ينطبق هذا الوصف عل علمة‬ ‫‪ Hugo Boss‬بنفسها ‪،‬حيث أصبحت العلمة التجارية معروفة‬ ‫بالسلوب العاص والجديد ف سوق ل يكن تاريخيا ف صدارة‬ ‫صناعة الزياء‪ .‬عل الرغم من أصول ‪ Karl Lagerfeld‬اللانية‬ ‫وهيمنة العلمات التجارية الرياضية مثل ‪ Adidas‬و‪ ،Puma‬ل‬ ‫يكن للانيا أن تضاهي الملكة التحدة وفرنسا وإيطاليا ف مجال‬ ‫السلوب الراقي‪.‬‬ ‫لطالا سعت ‪ Hugo Boss‬إل تغيي ذلك‪ .‬تم إطلق‬ ‫العلمة التجارية كشكة ملبس صغية سنة ‪ 1924‬وقد واجه‬ ‫مؤسسها الذي يحمل السم نفسه عقبات مختلفة‪ ،‬با ف ذلك‬ ‫الصغر س ّناً تراه قديم الطراز؛ غي أ ّن القطع العريقة الزخرفة‬ ‫الفلس‪ ،‬تاركاً لصاحب الشوع ست آلت خياطة ل غي‪ .‬ورغم‬ ‫بأشكال الزهور أو الناظر الريفيّة أو الطراف الذهبيّة‪ ،‬فل تزال‬ ‫كل الصعاب‪ ،‬واظب رجل العمل اللتزم عل بناء العلمة التجارية‬ ‫رائجة اليوم ف بعض الماكن‪.‬‬ ‫تش” ‪ Rauch‬قائلة‪“ :‬الحقيقة أنّه ل أحد بحاجة إل أدوات بثبات‪ .‬اليوم وبعد أكث من ‪ 90‬عاماً عل تأسيسها‪ ،‬نت‬ ‫لتصبح ‪ Hugo Boss‬لتصبح واحدة من أكب وأنجح علمات‬ ‫كل سنة‪ .‬ل ي ُعد معظم الناس بحاجة إل وعاء‬ ‫مائدة من الخزف ّ‬ ‫الزياء ف العال‪ ،‬مع مجموعة تضم العديد من الخطوط تحت‬ ‫للحساء أو ستّة أنواع من الطباق‪ .‬لذلك ل ب ّد لنا كقطا ٍع وطني‬ ‫أن نتأقلم مع الوضع‪ .‬علينا أن نتمش مع ما هو رائج؛ هل نتناول تسميات ‪ ،Hugo Boss‬وتتاوح النتجات بي البدلت الص ّممة‬ ‫العكرونة أكث؟ هل يعيش معظمنا بفرده؟ علينا أن نوفّر منتجات بحسب الطلب والعطور‪ ،‬ضمن شبكة دولية تضم أكث من ألف‬ ‫أكث عصيّة‪ .‬يجب أن نكون عل استعداد عندما يضجر الناس من متجر‪.‬‬ ‫تغي الساليب عب السني وتأقلم العلمة مع‬ ‫‪”.Ikea‬‬ ‫عل الرغم من ّ‬ ‫الباغمتيكيّة اللانيّة الشهورة‪ ،‬اللبس العمليّة هي التي حدّدت‬ ‫لهذا السبب تنتج علمات أمثال ‪Villeroy & Boch‬‬ ‫هويّة ‪ .Hugo Boss‬بدأ الدار سنة ‪ 1950‬بتصميم بدلت‬ ‫قطعاً أكث ابتكارا ً تزج فيها عل سبيل الثال الخزف بالحجر‬ ‫للرجال وط ّور طرقاً مبتكرة لنتاج قطع جاهزة؛ المر الذي اعتُب‬ ‫والخزف بالخشب‪ .‬لهذا السبب تتعامل شكة ‪ HÖchster‬مع‬ ‫مهارة بارعة ف حقبة كانت فيها صناعة البدلت العالية الجودة‬ ‫الص ّمم ‪ Veit Streitenberger‬القيم ف فرانكفورت حيث‬ ‫الشكة‪ ،‬لبتكار ناذج فائقة الحداثة عن قطعٍ تقليديّة من الخزف‪ .‬عمليّة شاقّة‪.‬‬ ‫لطالا أث ّرت الحمسة لتقديم الفضل لرجال العمل‪ ،‬ولحقًا‬ ‫مجموعة ‪( Impressions‬إنطباعات) عل سبيل الثال‪ ،‬إس ٌم‬ ‫لسيدات العمل‪ ،‬عل كل ما ص ّممه ‪ Hugo Boss‬عل م ّر‬ ‫عل مس ّمى‪ .‬تشمل مزهريّة مك ّعبة عصيّة طُبع عليها شكل‬ ‫السني‪ ،‬با ف ذلك مجموعاته الراقية‪ ،‬وربا تعود شعبيّة العلمة‬ ‫مزهريّة أسطوانيّة تقليديّة‪ .‬وقد أُجريت تعديلت جذريّة عل‬ ‫العالية ال قدرتها عل تعديل أسلوب ‪ Boss‬با يتناسب مع‬ ‫وعاء مخروطي من خلل عناص متكاملة من طبقٍ من القرن‬ ‫مختلف السواق‪ .‬تقدم مجموعات عروض الزياء بصمتها العاصة‬ ‫الثامن عش منقوش بالزهار مألوف لمثال ‪ .von Ostein‬وث ّة‬ ‫والقصات الضيقة‬ ‫قطع أخرى تفوق الخيال؛ عل سبيل أداة خزفيّة لفتح الرسائل‪ ،‬من من خلل البدلت النيقة والخياطة النظيفة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بصف واحد من الزرار‪ .‬مع تأسيس خط ‪Boss‬‬ ‫تصميم ‪ Mario Effenberger‬وحائزة جائزة ‪Frankfurt‬‬ ‫والقطع الز ّودة ّ‬ ‫وسعت العلمة انتشارها لتصل‬ ‫‪.Messe Design Plus‬‬ ‫الخفّض السعار سنة ‪ّ ،1970‬‬ ‫إل أولئك الذين كانوا يجدون اللبس الفاخرة بعيدة النال‪ .‬سنة‬ ‫لكل قطعة صغية مكا ٌن‬ ‫ف هذا السوق الديناميك‪ ،‬ليس ّ‬ ‫‪ ،1998‬قدّمت العلمة أ ّول مجموعة ملبس نسائية لها وتيزت‬ ‫محفوظ‪ .‬اليوم ونظرا ً لتصميم النازل الداخل العصي‪ ،‬باتت‬ ‫باتّباعها موضة اللبس السلطويّة بجرأة‪ :‬فساتي فضفاضة وبدلت‬ ‫ربا تُشتى‬ ‫تاثيل الزينة الصغية تجذب هواة التجميع ل غي أو ّ‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫‪PHOTO: VILLEROY & BOCH AG‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية‬ ‫‪In Fine Shape :40‬‬

‫تصاميم مصقولة‬

‫يع ّزز صانعو الخزف التقليدي ف ألانيا مكانتهم جاذبي معجبي‬ ‫جدُد من خلل تقنيّات مبتكرة وتصاميم خلقة‪ ،‬تقرير ‪Josh‬‬ ‫‪Sims‬‬

‫إن كان استخدام أفضل أدوات الائدة الخزفيّة ف حفلِ عشاء‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫النتتخب ف‬ ‫يربكك اليوم‪ ،‬تخيّل القلق الذي كان ينتاب الطران‬ ‫ماينز ‪ Johann Friedrich Karl von Ostein‬ف القرن‬ ‫أحب هذا‬ ‫الثامن عش والذي كان بحاجة إل كميّ ٍة سخيّة منها‪ّ .‬‬ ‫الرجل أدوات الائدة الخزفيّة الرفيعة الستوى إل ح ّد كبي‪ ،‬دفعه‬ ‫إل منح أحد الصانعي تصيحاً بصناعة الخزف ف فراكفورت‬ ‫وضمن توافره باستمرار لدى أسته‪.‬‬ ‫فكانت النتيجة تأسيس علمة ‪HÖchst Porzellan‬‬ ‫(التي باتت اليوم ‪)HÖchster Porzellan-Manufaktur‬‬ ‫سنة ‪ 1746‬فشكّلت إحدى أوائل شكات صناعة الخزف ف ألانيا‪.‬‬ ‫وتكرياً لراعيها‪ ،‬اعتمدت عجلة ‪ Mainz‬كشعا ٍر لها ويظهر هذا‬ ‫اللمع الشوي والقطع الطليّة وقطع‬ ‫الرمز عل الخزف البيض ّ‬ ‫الزينة واله ّم هو عل أدوات الائدة حتّى ف يومنا هذا‪ .‬غي أنّه‬ ‫ليس الناجي الوحيد من سنوات الصانع الول؛ تشمل مجموعة‬ ‫‪ HÖchster‬نسخاً بارعة عن أشهر قطعها من القرن الثامن عش‪.‬‬ ‫عل الرغم من حضور ‪ HÖchster‬الواضح ف محيط‬ ‫فرانكفورت‪ ،‬ليست عل الطلق الشكة الوحيدة الص ّنعة للخزف‬

‫ف ألانيا‪ .‬تض ّم البلد بعض أرقى صانعي الخزف ف العال‪ ،‬من‬ ‫‪ Meissen‬إل ‪ Nymphenburg‬و‪ Wagner & Apel‬إل‬ ‫‪ KÖnigliche Porzellan-Manufaktur‬و‪ .Lichte‬وبا‬ ‫س صناعة الخزف‬ ‫أ ّن ألانيا هي البلد الذي ت ّم فيه أخيا ً اكتشاف ّ‬ ‫الصيني الذائع الصيت سنة ‪ ،1708‬ل عجب أن يص ّنف هواة‬ ‫تجميع الخزف العلمات اللانيّة من بي الرقى ف العال‪.‬‬ ‫من العلمات اللانيّة الخرى الرائدة ف هذا الجال‪،‬‬ ‫‪ Villeroy & Boch‬وسفيتها ‪ .Jessika Rauch‬تعتقد أ ّن‬ ‫ازدهار قطاع الخزف الجيّد ف البلد أم ٌر طبيعي للغاية‪ .‬ففي وقت‬ ‫تعذّرت فيه البنى التحتيّة لنقل الواد الوليّة لسافات طويلة‪،‬‬ ‫اضط ّر الصانعون إل العمل أينم تواجدت هذه الواد؛ ومعظم‬ ‫الناطق اللانيّة غنيّة بالكاولي والكوارتز والفلسبار وهي مك ّونات‬ ‫الخزف الساسيّة الثلثة‪ .‬كم ساهمت وفرة هذه الواد ف إنتاج‬ ‫قطعٍ عالية الجودة‪ ،‬أي عل ح ّد قول ‪ “ :Rauch‬قطع خزفيّة تَ ِرث ُها‬ ‫عن جدّتك”‪.‬‬ ‫تضيف‪“ :‬بالطبع‪ ،‬يصعب عل الكثيين التمييز بي أدوات‬ ‫الائدة التجاريّة والنتجات الخزفيّة الفاخرة‪ ،‬تاماً كصعوبة التفرقة‬ ‫ف اللبس بي نوع قطنٍ وآخر‪ .‬غالباً ما يتمتّع الخزف الجيّد بلون‬ ‫مائل إل البيض الِسك ويكون وجهه السفل ناعمً أكث منه‬ ‫خشناً‪ ،‬وإن كنت خبيا ً بالخزف‪ ،‬تلحظ اختلفاً حتّى ف رنينه‪ .‬لك ّنه‬ ‫حق ف خلل استخدامه‪ .‬فالخزف الجيّد‬ ‫يبهن جودته العالية عن ّ‬ ‫يدوم ويشكّل استثمرا ً‪”.‬‬ ‫تشي إل أ ّن العديد من الصانعي الصغيي الحجم ف البلد‬ ‫واجهوا أزمات ماليّة ف العقود الاضية‪ ،‬ف حي حقّق اللعبون‬ ‫الساسيّون النجا” من خلل إعادة ابتكار بعض القطع البارزة‪ .‬وإن‬ ‫كانت الجيال الكب س ّناً تعتب الخزف العال الجودة ترفاً‪ ،‬فتلك‬

90 | P RO D U C T S

SOUVENIR

QUALITY TIME The newly released 6200 Meisterbund I from Sinn – a brand long valued by pilots, divers, rescue workers and the like – is the elegant result of a collaboration between three of Germany’s leading players in the watchmaking business. The name Meisterbund, which means ‘cooperation of master craftsmen’, is a fitting one for the limited-edition timepiece, only 55 of which have been produced. The 18-carat rose Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

gold watch, which has an attractive guilloché dial and brown leather strap, features a hand-wound calibre from Uhren-WerkeDresden (UWD), while Sächsische Uhrentechnologie Glashütte (SUG) is responsible for the technologically advanced case. The result is a stylish timepiece with enduring appeal. rd Sinn 6200 Meisterbund I watch, €12,900, Sinn, Römerberg 34, 60311 Frankfurt, +49 (0)69 9784 14650, sinn.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 65

Frankfurt: Rathenauplatz 1

MARK J. PLOTKIN RAINFOREST ADVOCATE WEARING THE ICONIC GANT SHIRT, LAUNCHED AT EAST COAST UNIVERSITIES IN 1949.

THEY CHANGED THE WORLD. NOT THE SHIRT.

GANT.COM

S H I R T M A K E R S

S I N C E

GANT STORES FRANKFURT MYZEIL & MAIN-TAUNUS-ZENTRUM & AIRPORT-AIRSIDE FLUGSTEIG A

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