HAMBURG | ГАМБУРГ | 汉堡 |
HAMBURG Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2015
Page 44 STREETS AHEAD: Hamburg’s must-see creative districts
هامبورغ
If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name
customers express when they purchase
“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost
jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of
expertise in the art of making jewellery
jewellery uphold international standards
and timepieces. We offer a unique
and are born in our own atelier. This is
selection of valuable treasures at 28
true for unusual one-of-a-kind items
Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are
as well as for our diverse assortment
especially proud because for more than
of classic pieces with brilliant-cut
a century we have been privileged to
diamonds. And a century-old friendship
contribute to the grand feelings that our
links us with the world’s foremost watch
We accept all credit cards.
www.wempe.com
manufactories. You will find WEMPE
will always be available to meet your
showrooms at the loveliest locations
individual needs. We cordially invite you
in great European metropolises, New
to discover an abundance of interesting
York City and in Beijing. Each shop also
new items and exclusive special models
offers service or advice whenever you
at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We
require it, so you can be certain that we
look forward to your visit!
Hamburg, Jungfernstieg 8, T +49.(0)40.33 44 88 24 hamburg.jungfernstieg@wempe.de Hamburg, Mönckebergstraße 19 T +49.(0)40.33 44 88 20 hamburg.moe@wempe.de HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK
Hamburg Jungfernstieg 25
Willkommen bei Bucherer, ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmen und eines der führenden Häuser für Uhren und Schmuck in Europa. In unserem Hamburger Geschäft am Jungfernstieg erwartet Sie eine große Auswahl an Luxus-Uhrenmarken sowie exquisite Schmuckstücke und ein erstklassiger Service. Welcome to Bucherer,
WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS
a Swiss company with a long tradition and one of the leading establishments for watches and jewellery in Europe. In our Hamburg store directly at Jungfernstieg you will find a broad selection of luxury watch brands and exquisite jewellery, as well as first-class service.
Patek Philippe is available at the following Bucherer stores: Berlin Friedrichstraße 179, Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1 and Munich Residenzstraße 11.
Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com
und viele mehr and many more
Te Alsterhaus, situated on Hamburg’s Jungfernstieg waterfront boulevard and overlooking the Alster lake, is one of the world’s leading department stores. Since 1912, the Alsterhaus has been at the forefront of style and luxury with over 24,000 m2 of retail foor space. Te Alsterhaus represents the international lifestyle by ofering its customers exceptional fashion, beauty and home & living trends as well as food beverages. Numerous shop-in-shops spread over 6 sales foors take the shopper on a journey to the world’s great shopping metropolises, offering its clientele a retail experience of the frst degree. Te Alsterhaus is steeped in historical ambience and looks back on a more than one hundred year-old history, comparable to Harrods in London or Galeries Lafayette in Paris. Since the very beginning, this traditional Hamburg department store has been one of Germany’s leading department stores.
On the Alsterhaus basement level the customers will fnd a unique selection of masterfully crafed writing instruments, leather goods, luggage, a ticket shop and a customer service. Highlights of our customer service include a cloakroom, tailoring, personal shoppers, global shipping and beauty lounges.
In the Alsterhaus beauty department spread over 1,500 m², customers will fnd the luxury brands, newcomer fragrances and innovative natural cosmetics. Fashion accessories from major international brands can also be found on the ground foor.
Te frst and second foor at Alsterhaus offer a modern selection of fashion brands for women and men as well as a hairdresser. A special highlight is our premium lounge private shopping area with a stupendous view over the Alster lake.
On the third floor you will find an incomparable assortment of the fnest women’s undergarments and lingerie as well as home and living accessories and Kid’s Fashion.
The 4th floor invites true gourmets to sample a veritable cornucopia of wines and delicacies in our gourmet boulevard, as well as one-of-a-kind Veuve Clicquot champagne bar. Our culinary specialists at our LeBuffet restaurant prepare meals in front of guests.
SERVIC ES
T I ME IS A LUXU RY NOWA DAYS , S O LET U S MAKE T IME FOR YOU !
PERS ONAL SHOPPER We will happily provide you with a Personal Shopper who will accompany, serve and expertly advise you throughout your visit to Alsterhaus. Our VIP Service specialists will make your shopping trip into a unique individual experience. We cater specifcally to your personal preferences, ideas and wishes. Afer an informal discussion and a thorough image consultation, we compile an exclusive selection just for you, from which you can pick out and try on your favourite items. Enjoy your visit to our store in a private atmosphere & with a sparkling glass of champagne or a stimulating espresso. For further information, please contact us on +49 40 3590 1677 or E-Mail: vip-service@alsterhaus.de
In addition, the Alsterhaus is delighted to ofer you many other exclusive services, such as:
TOURS OF THE L EGEN DA RY A L STER HAUS Explore the legendary Alsterhaus and learn lots of interesting things, from its beginnings to the department store’s presence today. We would like to accompany you and your guests on an individual tour, which ofers you an introduction to an unforgettable shopping experience. Simply call our VIP Service to book your personal tour.
CLOAKRO OM AN D LUG G AGE STOR AG E You can leave your coats and jackets as well as your shopping free of charge in the lockers on the Lower Ground Floor.
GI FT-W R APPING SERV IC ES Out expertise is to make even the smallest gif stand out. A gif-wrapping service is available at all Alsterhaus checkouts. We are happy to wrap free of charge any items purchased at our store, using our luxury Alsterhaus gif paper.
BEAUT Y LOUNGES & SERVIC ES Te exclusive wellness & treatment area provides relief from the stresses of the day and beckons you into the world of the senses. Indulge yourself with the latest treatments and professional services that are available from our beauty specialists in our beauty lounges. In addition, whether you need a wellness manicure and pedicure, a new Make-up or a perfect hair-styling, all beauty treatments are carried out at Alsterhaus with total care and professionalism. For further information contact our Beauty Department.
MADE-TO -MEASU R E SHIRT S Eton, van Laack and Jacques Britt – design your own custom-made shirt. Choose from over 450 exklusive cotton fabrics and a unique selection of collar and cuf styles to create your personal shirt – for business or leisure. Visit us on the 1st foor. Please call +49 40 3590 1677 to arrange an appointment.
C OM PLI MENTARY WI FI Simply log-in while you are visiting the Alsterhaus and enjoy complimentary wireless internet connection for up to 3 hours.
CUSTOMER SERV IC ES Unfortunately even we cannot always completely check all our products. Should you fnd a fault with your purchase from Alsterhaus, we will do our utmost to resolve the matter quickly, without complications and to your full satisfaction. Should you have any questions, suggestions or complaints, our customer services on the Lower Ground Floor are always willing to listen. Our top priority is to fulfl your every wish and to always do better for you.
TAX F RE E AVA IL A BL E AT EAC H C ASH POIN T. Currency choice available, which allows you to pay in your own currency.
ALSTERHAUS Hamburg · Jungfernstieg 16 – 20 · 20354 Hamburg Phone: +49 40 3590 10 · Fax: +49 40 3590 1310 · Email: service@alsterhaus.de Opening Hours: Mon - Sat 10 am - 8 pm · www.alsterhaus.de
CHRIST jewellers and watchmakers in Hamburg 2x Alstertal Einkaufszentrum · Mönckebergstraße 18 · Europa-Passage · Elbe-Einkaufszentrum Spitaler Straße 32 · Wandsbek Quarree · Phoenix-Center (Harburg) · Eppendorfer Landstraße 77 (inside Karstadt)
CHRIST DIAMONDS કDŽ 200 䒐 CHRIST ϧप刧𗥓偹ᖋ㊁ˈ ҹܼᮄᮍᓣᛳফ儙⅙
www.christ.de
CHRIST ᇞѿ𑀗𖠗 0180/5 32 10 98˄ᖋ㊁ᴀ㌲㉸𖠗䗮ֵ𗅶𗅥 ᖋ㊁ᴀ㌲㉸𖠗䗮ֵ𗅶𗅥 0.14 ܗ ܗ/ߚ䩳 ߚ䩳˗ ⿏ⅲ𑀗𖠗𗅶𗅥玀𠙒 0.42 ܗ ܗ/ߚ䩳˅ ߚ䩳˅*ଂӋ呥𖠢 ଂӋ呥𖠢 ** ⱑ㡆ǃᇣ╙ݙ⠽⡍呡ǃӬ㡃ߛ偉
▔垅DŽᖋ㊁ࠊ䗴DŽ
14
EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen
Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera
دليل ألانيا 德国指南
Welcome to Hamburg Maybe you’re already familiar with Hamburg, or perhaps it’s the frst time you’ve visited this vibrant port city. Either way, SHOP magazine is sure to ofer something to surprise you. Discover the avant-garde Sternschanze district in our feature on page 44. In this edition, we also meet Kim-Eva Wempe and Catherine Plouchard of luxury jeweller Wempe (page 60) and seek out some of Hamburg’s most applauded restaurants (page 68). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Hamburg. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free Global Blue Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
/globalblue
@GlobalBlue
/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu
@shopcontent
Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Nuremburg Oslo Paris 巴黎 Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Tokyo Vienna Vilnius /globalblue
ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN
Руководство Германия
OYS TER PER PE TUA L MILG AUS S
H A M B U R G - P O S T S T R A S S E 9 - 11
HAMBURG MÖNCKEBERGSTRASSE Welcome to Hamburg, the lifestyle capital of the north. Enjoy your stay in a city where history and modernity go hand in hand. You will find the GALERIA Kaufhof shopping paradise in the heart of the city on Mönckebergstraße, right next to the main railway station. Visit GALERIA Kaufhof and be inspired by the wide variety of products from famous brand name manufacturers, the excellent service and the fabulous atmosphere. If you come from a country outside the EU, please enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof! We look forward to seeing you!
Please scan the QR-code with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Hamburg, Mönckebergstrasse.
GALERIA Kaufhof... ... makes you fall in love with Germany
GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne
www.galeria.de
Beauty and more … visit Europe’ No. 1 perfumery! W E W I L L B E P L E A S E D TO W E LC O M E YO U TO T H E D O U G L A S W O R L D O F B E AU T Y I N H A M B U RG : • Mönckebergstraße 8 / Spitalstraße 7, 040 - 326734 • Neuer Wall 1-5 / Jungfernstieg 7, 040 - 343614
Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories. With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers. Explore our world of beauty!
22
PHOTO: DIONNE HÉLÈNE
Muti Muti created the cover illustration for this season’s SHOP Hamburg. The studio’s clever artwork has previously been commissioned by publications such as Condé Nast Traveler, Time and Elle, among others. Its lively graphic style is perfect for this cover, inspired by our feature about two of Hamburg’s up-and-coming bohemian shopping areas on page 44. The illustration features colourful buildings that are home to independent boutiques, bars and quirky cafés and elegantly encapsulates the areas’ creative, lively vibe. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
PHOTO: TESS HAROLD
ILLUSTRATION: STUDIO MUTI – FOLIO ART
CONTRIBUTORS
Gwyneth Holland Journalist and trend consultant Gwyneth Holland works with leading brands and agencies to discover the future and also writes for global fashion publications. She is one of the founders of new fashion trends service Unique Style Platform. globalblue.com
Rebecca Fearn English graduate Rebecca Fearn is a fashion intern at SHOP and a freelance writer with her own fashion blog. She has gained experience at a variety of publications including The Times and The Sunday Times Style.
Ruairidh Pritchard Ruairidh Pritchard, assistant production editor at SHOP, studied journalism in Glasgow, where he was editor of his university’s awardwinning magazine. Ruairidh is a keen traveller and writes for a variety of publications.
calvinklein.com Hamburg Neuer Wall 15
24
SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Managing editor Sally McIlhone
Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh
Cover illustrator Studio Muti – Folio Art
Online production assistant Marina Nelson
Contributors Gwyneth Holland, Hamish Monk Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard
Online assistant Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He
Features editor Verity Hogan
Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liu
City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles
Chinese translators Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang
Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold Fashion and news intern Rebecca Fearn Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Sarah Walker
Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok
Vice president sales central Europe Thorsten Lind Country manager Jörg Schönbeck Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Sales manager Pino Dufter Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Hamburg Tourismus GmbH, Steinstrasse 7, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3005 1300, hamburg-tourism.de
Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Head of digital Eamonn Leacy
Chief Executive Officer David Baxby
Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia
Chief Traveller Officer Craig Le Grice
Art direction Design by S-T
Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang
Artwork editor Adam Dhaliwal
Digital markting intern Anastasia Budieva
Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, George Trinick
Product manager Devesh Sankadecha
Artworking intern Samantha Junak
GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y
Digital intern Sammy Ha Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini
SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue
SWATCH FLAGSHIPSTORE, Jungfernstieg 7
In the mood for fashion?
Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices. visit us: www.canda.com facebook.com/ca Hamburg Mönckebergstraße 9 • Altona Mercado-Center • Wandsbek Quarree • Elbe-EKZ
Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам.
هل أنت راغب بآخر الصيحات؟ ، ستجدون لدينا أخر صيحات الموضة.C&A إذا ستسعد بما تقدمه محلت وماعليكم إل أن تتمتعوا بالتسوق في.من ملبس السبور إلى قمة الناقة لقد عودنا زبائننا الكرام على تشكيلة واسعة من ملبس السيدات.محلتنا . والرجال والطفال ذات النوعية العالية وبأفضل الثمان
28
CONTENTS
PHOTO: DOMINIK GIGLER
p.60
P ROD U C T S 32 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Hamburg this season 34 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N EWS 40 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Hamburg 41 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F E AT U R E S 44 Cover Story: Creative Quarters Sternschanze and Karoviertel are Hamburg’s newly chic areas, flled with arty stores, bohemian bars and high-end restaurants, as Hamish Monk discovers 52 The New Normal Simple, functional luxury is the theme throughout the spring/summer 2015 collections – a style German brands know well, says Gwyneth Holland 60 Diamond Duo As luxury jewellery and watch brand Wempe launches a new range, owner KimEva Wempe and creative director Catherine Plouchard talk to Ruairidh Pritchard Above: By Kim Beijing Cosmora ring in the Wempe atelier
E X PE R I E NCE 68 Table Talk Hamburg’s restaurant culture highlights seafood and exotic ingredients, says Isabella Redmond Styles GU I DE 73 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Hamburg ESSENTI A LS 82 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S 84 Русский Перевод 90 美文翻译 93 日本語翻訳 97 POSTCA R D 98 SHOP writes home about Montblanc
Hamburg: Neuer Wall 63
Hamburg, Mönckebergstraße Karstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-Straße 2 | 45133 Essen
Fashion, Lifestyle & more Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience. Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers. Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey through our store Karstadt Hamburg.
32 | P RO D U C T S
DIVA DELIGHTS If one were to sum up the Bulgari Diva collection in a word, that word would surely be ‘luxury’. Renowned for its opulent pieces, the collection was named to celebrate the many flm stars who wore Bulgari jewellery in the 1950s and 60s, including Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor. We adore the elegant take on drop earrings that these pink gold items ofer, and think they refect the best of the Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 82
collection. Featuring onyx and mother of pearl, the earrings are undoubtedly luxurious, yet very wearable and understated. The rest of the collection is just as desirable, with each piece unique but defned by the fan-like motif that features across the striking collection. rf Bulgari Diva earrings in 18-carat pink gold with onyx and mother of pearl, €3,500, Bulgari, Neuer Wall 24, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3751 7351, bulgari.com * for map go to page 78
PHOTO: ANTONIO BARRELLA
CHECK OUT
BOGNER HAMBURG
Rathausmarkt 4
bogner.com
34 | P RO D U C T S
BLACK AND BLUE Forget the outdated fashion rules and embrace this overlooked colour combination
1
4
2
3
5
1. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Master Co-Axial watch, €4,350, Omega, Neuer Wall 2-6, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3501 6492, omegawatches.com 2. Lloyd shoes, €149.90, Lloyd, Jungfernstieg 7, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3003 9895, lloyd.de
3. Salvatore Ferragamo scarves, €375 each, Salvatore Ferragamo, Neuer Wall 41, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 378 5360, ferragamo.com 4. Paul Smith bag, €1,215, Paul Smith, Hohe Bleichen 15, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3501 5273, paulsmith.co.uk
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 82
5. Sieger bow tie, €98, JF Flebbe Männermode, Eppendorfer Baum 7, 20249 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 476679, jf-febbe.de
S H O P | 35
FABULOUS FLORALS Put a spring in your step with these brightly patterned items
3
1
4
PHOTO: (2) COSIMO SERENI/GUCCI S.P.A.
2
1. Escada blazer, €1,299, Escada, Grosse Bleichen 23-27, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 363296, escada.com 2. Gucci bag, €1,450, Gucci, Neuer Wall 34, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 357 6330, gucci.com
globalblue.com
3. Swarovski Cardinal necklace, €349, Swarovski, Mönckebergstrasse 7, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3009 2360, swarovski.com
4. Esprit dress, €89.99, Esprit, Gerhof Strasse 1-3, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 360 9370, esprit.com
36 | P RO D U C T S
ACTIVE LIVING Make an eye-catching statement with these graphic pieces
1
3
4
1. Benetton T-shirt, €29.95, Benetton, Klein Rosenstrasse 14, 20095 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 7679 7116, benetton.com
3. Massimo Dutti hat, €39.95, Massimo Dutti, Neuer Wall 38, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3003 2533, massimodutti.com
2. Michael Kors purse, €40, Michael Kors, Neuer Wall 10, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 2866 5840, michaelkors.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 82
4. Acne jacket, €650, Acne, Bleichenbrücke 10, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 6360 7533, acnestudios.com
PHOTO: (2) JOSEPHINE SCHIELE
2
S H O P | 37
PERFECT ASYMMETRY
2
Stand out from the crowd with these far-out fashion fnds 1
1. Marc Cain dress, €299, Marc Cain, Neuer Wall 52, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3609 0189, marc-cain.com 2. Cos jacket, €89, Cos, Neuer Wall 19, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 2880 9909, cosstores.com
globalblue.com
3
4
3. Sabrina Dehof bracelet, €279, Vau, Hegestrasse 44, 20251 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 4130 5360, vau-hh.de
4. Cartier bag, €3,900, Cartier, Neuer Wall 22, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 349 6050, cartier.com
SATURN HAMBURG Expertise and a passion for technology
Saturn offers a wide range of fascinating branded products at attractive prices as well as expert advice and customised service. Just like at a trade fair, customers can find the latest trends in technology at the four Saturn stores located on MĂśnckebergstraĂ&#x;e, in PoppenbĂźttel, in Bergedorf and at the ELBE shopping centre.
The products are as innovative as their presentation is striking: modern technology can be experienced first hand, variety and relevance are key. The range of goods includes product categories such as consumer electronics, new media, household appliances, telecommunications, computers, photography and video.
Customers can shop in their local store, but also online and even with their smartphone to later pick up their purchases from the store if they wish. Furthermore, the electronics retailer has installed two Xpress machines at Hamburg airport. The company is one of the leading players in European electronics retailing.
Mönckebergstraße Mönckebergstraße 1 20095 Hamburg
Poppenbüttel Saseler Damm 43 22395 Hamburg
Bergedorf Bergedorfer Straße 106 21029 Hamburg
Elbe, Einkaufszentrum Badstraße 4 13357 Berlin
40 | N E W S
PHOTO: CHANEL
SHOP WINDOW
BIGGER AND BETTER As the birthplace of Chanel’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld, Hamburg plays a signifcant part in the story of the brand. So it may come as no surprise that the city’s Chanel store has relocated to a more luxurious space on the ground foor of Bürgermeisterhaus, an impressive, early 20th-century building in the heart of Hamburg. It was designed by architect Peter Marino and ofers a spacious and stylish shop foor devised with Coco Chanel’s Paris apartment in mind. Marble Save up to 14.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 82
foors ofset minimalist displays and glass cabinets, and particular mention should be made of the tweed carpets and upholstery, which pay homage to Chanel’s classic roots. The boutique, which covers 327 square metres, carries items from the ready-to-wear collection, as well as bags, shoes and other accessories. It is undoubtedly a must-see for visitors looking to explore the most signifcant luxury shopping destinations in the city. rf Chanel, Neuer Wall 75, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 5003 9190, chanel.com * for map go to page 78
S H O P | 41
AMAZING ARMANI
When it comes to sound, Danish audio expert Bang & Olufsen knows its stuf. The company not only creates some of the best-quality headphones and home audio systems in the world, but also prides itself on pushing the boundaries
of premium sound. It’s no surprise, then, that Bang & Olufsen has launched the world’s frst high-end, compact wireless speakers. The new BeoLab 17 speakers, most recently reinvented in a matte black fnish, are beautifully minimalist, crafted from a single piece of extruded aluminium. With their Bluetooth wireless connectivity they can be used throughout your home, ensuring you are surrounded by premium sounds whatever you’re doing. rp Bang & Olufsen, Heegbarg 31, 22391 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 602 0126, bang-olufsen.com
PHOTO: © BEPPE RASO
Having recently been given an impressive revamp, the luxury shopping street Neuer Wall has just got even better. It has been chosen by renowned Italian label Giorgio Armani as the location of its new Hamburg store. From the ground-foor entrance you fnd yourself in a vast area dedicated to Armani’s coveted women’s collections, from ready-to-wear to accessories. The gentlemen’s equivalent is located upstairs, along with the Giorgio Armani made-to-measure service, available for the frst time in Hamburg. The store will also be the frst Giorgio Armani shop in Germany to stock the new Luxury White capsule collection, a minimalist range focusing almost exclusively on ultra-luxe materials in white, ivory and beige. hl Giorgio Armani, Neuer Wall 69, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3099 78530, armani.com * for map go to page 78
HIGH-END BEATS
globalblue.com
42 | N E W S
LOOKING FORWARD To celebrate the opening of the frst & Other Stories shop in Hamburg, the brand threw a suitably hip party flled with infuential industry professionals from Hamburg and beyond. Located in the centre of the main shopping district, the generous space provides customers with an ultra-cool selection of readyto-wear, accessories, jewellery and cosmetics. Owned by the H&M group, & Other Stories was launched in March 2013, with stores in seven European countries. Since then, it has flled a niche in the market for fashion-forward pieces with an emphasis on quality. Styling and individuality also play a key part in the brand’s identity, and customers are invited to interpret the collection in their own unique way. th & Other Stories, Neuer Wall 20, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 5003 2251, stories.com * for map go to page 78
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
ODE TO CRAFTSMANSHIP
Save up to 14.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 82
A Prada show is never just about the clothes, and spring/summer 2015 was no exception. This was about the set (lilac-coloured sand dunes), the soundtrack (courtesy of Frédéric Sanchez) and even the canapés (squares of chocolate on pieces of dry bread). And, because nothing is ever incidental with Miuccia Prada, these elements combined to produce a subtle presage. It spoke of a post-apocalyptic future in which we all wear 19th-century brocade – slightly the worse for wear. With each look, the clothes seemed to be gently unravelling. From fraying silks to patchwork panels, the items in the show had the appearance of having survived a great tragedy and then having been lovingly restored. There were 30 diferent brocades in the collection, all faithfully reproduced from antique textiles exclusively for Prada. The show was an ode to craftsmanship and the role of fashion in conserving those skills. th Prada, Hohe Bleichen 21, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 351 0590, prada.com * for map go to page 76
S H O P | 43
TECHNOLOGY MADE PERSONAL Apple has unveiled its frst venture in wearable technology: the Apple Watch. It features a revolutionary new user interface which links to your iPhone, allowing access to applications such as text messaging and map directions on your wrist. The Apple Watch’s beautiful design includes fnishing options such as 18-carat gold, as well as numerous strap options ranging from traditional leather to a high-performance sports band, so the watch can be customised to match the wearer’s own style. This makes it not only a piece of cutting-edge technology but also a stunning timepiece. rp Apple, Jungfernstieg 12, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3496 28000, apple.com * for map go to page 78
PHOTOS: (LEFT) FRANK HERFORT; (RIGHT) © APPLE
COUNTRYSIDE CHIC British luxury landed in Hamburg this season with the opening of a new Mulberry store on Neuer Wall, the city’s leading shopping street. The design of the store, which covers 220 square metres, takes inspiration from the English countryside, particularly through the textures and colours that are featured. Leather tiles (designed by British artist Genevieve Bennett) line the walls and refect the British brand’s heritage of leather craftsmanship. Shelves made from hand-carved oak are set above limestone foors to create an especially elegant space. The interior’s neutral shades allow impressive pieces such as the brand’s Bayswater bag to stand out, as well as products from its footwear and ready-to-wear collections. The store promises to be a haven for visitors seeking a luxurious, sophisticated experience. rf Mulberry, Neuer Wall 69, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 5544 4620, mulberry.com * for map go to page 78 globalblue.com
44 | F E AT U R E S
CREATIVE QUARTERS
Hamburg’s commercial area is undergoing a cultural renaissance as its north-western districts welcome independent boutiques, cutting-edge restaurants and cult international brands, says Hamish Monk
84 / 97
90
Above: the weekly food market in Hamburg’s Sternschanze district
PHOTO: MEDIASERVER.HAMBURG.DE/R. HEGELER
S H O P | 45
Hamburg has been an industrial driving force in central Europe since the early 19th century. Over time the city has expanded to become the continent’s second largest port and is also widely known as Germany’s gateway to the world. Today, this commercial juggernaut is enjoying a cultural renaissance, with two areas in particular – Sternschanze and Karoviertel – becoming two of Germany’s most interesting shopping districts, flled with independent stores, bohemian bars and high-end restaurants. Sternschanze is situated north west of the city centre, and has become one of Hamburg’s most vibrant, avant-garde areas. Since the 1980s Sternschanze has been seen as the city’s innovative hub, and its artistic credentials still hold true today, with a mix of independent boutiques, pop-up shops and fashionable bars and restaurants lining the streets. It has attracted some of Hamburg’s most creative types.
46 | F E AT U R E S
‘Sternschanze has a great mix of urban cultures. It’s a party place and a good spot for food; it has a bit of everything’ – Peter Freese, Mala Two such residents are Angelika Schulz and Peter Freese, who spent several years travelling across Asia and then returned to Hamburg in 2000 and opened Mala, one of Sternschanze’s most intriguing stores. Stocking a wide variety of imported homewear, jewellery and accessories, Mala is something of a local institution. ‘We opened the shop 15 years ago,’ Freese explains. ‘At that time Sternschanze was more of an area for people without much money, such as manual workers,
students and artists.’ Since then, the district has evolved into a creative and cultural melting pot. ‘Sternschanze has a great mix of urban cultures,’ Freese continues. ‘It’s a party place, a good spot for food, a sightseeing area; it has a bit of everything.’ Another of Sternschanze’s hotspots is Altes Mädchen, one of the city’s most popular eateries. Translating as ‘old girl’, Altes Mädchen takes its name from a song about Hamburg by 1950s singer Freddy Quinn. While its name
Above (from top): Mala store; an example of handcrafed jewellery available at Mala
Leading WomensWear Brands and CoLLeCtions HamBurg aLstertaL-einkaufszentrum Monday Through SaTurday 10 aM - 8 pM HamBurg mรถnCkeBergstrasse 15 Monday Through SaTurday 10 aM - 8 pM
PHOTO: PHILIPP RATHMER
48 | F E AT U R E S
may nod to the past, the restaurant itself is centred on Germany’s emerging craft beer industry. Founded by friends and neighbours Oliver Nordmann and Patrick Rüther, Altes Mädchen is in the renovated Schanzenhöfe market hall and aims to put beer at the heart of modern German gastronomy. ‘We opened Altes Mädchen in March 2013, and the Schanzenhöfe was the perfect place,’ says assistant manager Tina Küster. ‘The area’s very old. We opened the frst restaurant here, Bullerei, fve years ago, and with the Ratsherrn brewery next door as well, we were sure that we wanted to open on this site.’ Küster also cites the area’s eclectic atmosphere as a strong contributing factor: ‘Sternschanze is a lovely and very interesting area of Hamburg, with so many diferent people and cultures, diferent kinds of shops and restaurants. Every time you walk through the streets, you fnd something new, and every corner is diferent.’ Above (clockwise from top lef): Altes Mädchen restaurant; Sternschanze shopping area in Hamburg; Altes Mädchen founder Patrick Rüther
PHOTO: PATRICK REDLICH CC BY 2.0
S H O P | 49
Today Karoviertel is home to a collection of highend dressmakers and ready-to-wear boutiques, marking it out as the most fashion-forward area of Hamburg
To the east of Sternschanze is Karoviertel, a smaller, traditionally working-class residential district which has recently started to demonstrate the same creative spirit as its neighbour, fuelled by the city’s continuing artistic boom. Set between the city centre and the Hamburg fairground, the area – known locally as ‘Karo’ – has retained a distinctive, village-like feel. Today it is home to a collection of high-end dressmakers and ready-to-wear boutiques, marking it out as the most fashionforward area of Hamburg. One of Karoviertel’s most prominent stores is Garment. Friends Kathrin Müller and Ullinca Schröder, a dressmaker and costume designer respectively, established Garment after meeting at AMD, Hamburg’s academy of fashion and design. The decision to open in Karoviertel was an easy one. ‘It has a really creative, relaxed, lively and open-minded atmosphere,’ explains Schröder. ‘Karoviertel is often called the little neighbourhood. It’s less crowded than Sternschanze, but far from
PHOTO: MEDIASERVER.HAMBURG.DE/S.SCHWARZE
PHOTO: HENNING ANGERER
50 | F E AT U R E S
quiet. The main attractions are unique clothes stores, many of them run by fashion designers themselves.’ Garment is a prime example, stocking both menswear and womenswear cut to classic silhouettes and printed with colourful and contemporary designs. The combination of the old and new is a recurring theme throughout Karoviertel. While the area is flled with historic architecture, the new businesses that have been focking here add a modern edge while cementing Karo’s newly fashionable status. Contemporary tailors Herr Von Eden and cult US brand American
Apparel are just two of the stores that have recently opened in the area. The spirit of creativity and inclusivity ofered in both Sternschanze and Karoviertel, combined with their old-world charm, is helping Hamburg fourish as the new bohemian heart of Germany. The city has long been Germany’s gateway to the rest of the world, but with its new creative districts it’s become a place that’s well worth taking the time to explore rather than simply passing through malashop.com, altes-maedchen.com, garment-online.de
Above (clockwise from top): the Ratsherrn brewery, next to Altes Mädchen; Garment store interior; shopping in the Karoviertel district
BR A N D S Discover a wide selection of international brands, such as ...
52 | F E AT U R E S
888 / 888
888
Above: English caption xxxxx qui ofciducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi quis cum facil
| 53 S SH HO OP P|
For spring/summer 2015, the fashion world is embracing simple, functional luxury – a style that German brands have long understood, says Gwyneth Holland
THE NEW NORMAL The fashion world is shifting from individualistic, statement dressing to embrace a look that’s quieter, simpler and more ‘normal’. It’s a term that would have horrifed designers and fashion fans a few years ago – but ‘normal’ is now the last word in style. Since 2014, the fashion world has been a-futter with the coining of a new trend – normcore, a wry term for a way of dressing that focuses on a pared-back, no-label look.
96
86 /
91
According to K-Hole, the New York trend forecasting agency that came up with the term, ‘Normcore seeks the freedom that comes with non-exclusivity. It fnds liberation in being nothing special, and realises that adaptability leads to belonging. Normcore is a path to a more peaceful life.’ Simpler, more practical and less showy ways of dressing are here to stay. Normcore has now been gleefully co-opted by the fashion Lef: Strenesse spring/summer 2015
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
54 | F E AT U R E S
industry at large to denote a deliberately simple style with few embellishments and a focus on comfort – a style at which German brands from Adidas to Hugo Boss excel. At the spring/summer 2015 shows there was a distinct lack of fashiness on the front row. Even among the fashion peacocks and street-style stars who have taken to gathering outside the catwalk venues, the key trend was a simple, comfortable and subtle aesthetic. The message seemed to be that the truly stylish have no need to show of – the quiet confdence of a few simple, well-selected garments is enough to demonstrate their style smarts. This theme continues throughout the spring/summer 2015 collections as designers from New York to Paris focus on a feminine yet practical way of dressing. Flat shoes, midi-length skirts, wide trousers and clean lines are everywhere, with sporty streetwear touches adding a casual air to even the sleekest garments.
Above (from lef): Céline; Cos accessories; one of the Cos normcore looks, all spring/summer 2015
S H O P | 55
Normcore has been gleefully co-opted by the fashion industry at large to denote a deliberately simple style with a few embellishments and a focus on comfort - a style at which German brands excel
56 | F E AT U R E S
Acclaimed Parisian label Céline is helping to boost the appeal of norm-chic dressing, through designer Phoebe Philo’s deceptively simple – and hugely covetable – pieces. Philo recently told the audience at the Vogue Festival in London, ‘I hope when women wear Céline they feel confdent and strong … I have no problem with a woman wearing anything as long as she has chosen to wear it for herself.’ And that subtle confdence is clearly resonating with fashion fans: Céline-like simplicity has been embraced by many designers and has become popular among high-street brands, with restrained colour palettes of black, white, navy and brown dominating the rails at Zara and Cos. Above (from lef): Escada; Jil Sander, both spring/summer 2015
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
Mid-length skirts, wide trousers and clean lines are everywhere, with sporty touches adding a casual air to even the sleekest of garments
HAMBURGER HOF 路 JUNGFERNSTIEG 26 + 28 路 20354 HAMBURG 路 040 - 3499 44 61
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
58 | F E AT U R E S
At the same time, classic pieces such as trench coats, Breton-striped tops and laceup shoes are regaining their high fashion status, as women increasingly dress to please themselves, rather than chasing after trends. As a result, jeans are back in the fashion spotlight, along with trainers – and fat shoes in general – while the endless adaptability of a sleek pair of black trousers or a denim jacket are making them must-haves. The high-fashion take on normcore emphasises clean lines, beautiful fabrics, wearability and function. Leading German brands have long understood the importance of mixing wearability with high fashion, seen in the elegant utility practised at Strenesse as well as the bold simplicity of Escada. Jil Sander has always been a key proponent of the minimal, thoughtful luxury that’s currently dominating the fashion industry. Now under the creative direction of Italian designer Rodolfo Paglialunga (formerly of Vionnet), the label’s signature Above (from lef): Boss; Escada; Jil Sander; Boss, all spring/summer 2015
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
S H O P | 59
clean, luxurious look perfectly encapsulates the spring/summer 2015 trends. Inspired by the androgynous look of 1930s Swiss writer and photographer Annemarie Schwarzenbach, the new collection pairs sleek oxblood leather skirts and shorts with clean lilac or pale blue shirts and knits, alongside gently gathered cotton blouson jackets. At Hugo Boss, Jason Wu brought angular prints and a clean colour palette of black, white, blue and taupe to his utilitarian collection of minimalist suiting, crisp shirtdresses and plain short-sleeved shirts, all paired with fat sandals. The collection’s unassuming confdence perfectly refects norm-chic style. And it’s not just on the catwalk that German brands are owning the new laidback look: with Puma and Adidas trainers on the feet of trendsetters worldwide and the kind of sleek accessories produced by brands such as Bree adorning arms across the world, it looks as though German style has become the new normal
S H O P | 61
As Germany’s luxury jewellery and watch expert Wempe launches a bold new aspect to its By Kim range, the brand’s owner Kim-Eva Wempe and creative director Catherine Plouchard meet Ruairidh Pritchard
PHOTO: MATTHIAS HOFFMANN
DIAMOND DUO It’s rare to see a brand making a really bold statement uninfuenced by current trends and unmotivated by sales, but luxury German watch and jewellery specialist Wempe has done just that. Cosmora, the latest addition to its By Kim jewellery range, is truly unique and brings the brand’s expert craftsmanship to the fore. Wempe has been producing the By Kim jewellery range since 2001, and it is named for the company’s current owner Kim-Eva 87 / 95
92
Wempe, who is the great granddaughter of founder Gerhard D Wempe. With its eighth collection launched, By Kim has become one of Germany’s most popular jewellery brands. Cosmora is a 12-piece exhibition collection that was unveiled in November 2014. Created by Kim-Eva Wempe and the label’s creative director Catherine Plouchard, the collection includes 12 rings, each inspired by a diferent international city. The range heralds a new age Lef: By Kim Paris Cosmora ring
PHOTO: PAUL SCHIRNHOFER
62 | F E AT U R E S
for the 138-year-old company, which has two intrepid, passionate women holding the reins. The signifcance of having two women at the helm isn’t lost on Wempe and Plouchard. ‘For me, working with Wempe is perfect because it’s run by a woman,’ explains Plouchard. ‘When you’re working with other women you have a certain lucidity when it comes to jewellery, and as I like to say, having an appetite is the best way to cook.’
Both women pride themselves on knowing what their customers want, and it was this understanding that led them to launch the By Kim range in the frst place. ‘The team started with women only, and we travelled to jewellery fairs. Twice a year we would travel to Paris to buy pieces before we began creating our own collections,’ explains Wempe. ‘We would see the American buyers, all men, inspecting the rings, but it was always all about price,
Above (clockwise from top lef): Kim-Eva Wempe; Cosmora exhibition; Berlin Cosmora ring in the atelier; Klimt-inspired Wien Cosmora ring; Hamburg Cosmora ring; London Cosmora ring
PHOTO: (BOTTOM LEFT) MATTHIAS HOFFMANN
The 138-year-old company has two intrepid, passionate women holding the reins
PHOTOS: (BOTTOM ) MATTHIAS HOFFMANN
PHOTO: DOMINIK GIGLER
S H O P | 63
carat, margins and turnover. Price was the last thing we were interested in. First we held the jewellery, touched it, fgured out how it feels to wear – price was always the last question.’ The feel of jewellery is something of a focus for By Kim. ‘As a team of women, we started from a diferent point. Perhaps because of this we became more critical of what we were seeing: we knew what we as women wanted, and we couldn’t fnd it,’ says Wempe.
As wearers of jewellery, Wempe and Plouchard knew that pieces had not only to look good but also be tactile and wearable. ‘Men don’t think about it like that,’ explains Plouchard. ‘Before the eyes are seduced, the body has to be seduced – feeling, working with the body, and being pleasurable to wear, that’s what is most important.’ French-Italian designer and goldsmith Catherine Plouchard was persuaded to join
Wempe thanks to the company’s reputation for high-quality workmanship. ‘When we met, Catherine said “but one thing … it’s a German company”. I knew that as a French-Italian designer working for a German company she would be thinking, “I know they can do cars, but can they really do jewellery?”’ Wempe explains. ‘But she went to the atelier in Schwäbisch Gmünd and met our goldsmiths, and then she said yes because she could see that we knew what we were doing. I always like to think of it as when art met knowledge, because she said she had never seen such quality in Italy or France.’ Since then the company has created eight collections. Its frst, Sensual, consisted of organically shaped pendants and rings with curved bands to emphasise the feeling when worn. Helioro was another collection of rings Above (clockwise from lef): Wempe creative director Catherine Plouchard; Cosmora exhibition; New York Cosmora ring
PHOTO: (BOTTOM ) MATTHIAS HOFFMANN
64 | F E AT U R E S
made from nine individual, intertwined gold strands. And now there is Cosmora. Inspired by 12 diferent cities around the world, each ring is designed to symbolise the location while telling a story. From New York and Central Park to the Eifel Tower and Paris and the Klimt-inspired golden dome of Vienna’s Secession building, every ring is distinctive. ‘They are beautiful rings, but they’re also artistic and they tell a story about each place – it’s about an expression of a personal impression Catherine and I have about each place,’ says Wempe. The rings – some of which feature more than 200 precious stones – were handmade in
Wempe’s workshop by its master craftsmen, gemologists and goldsmiths. The collection is not available to buy; each piece was created for exhibition only. It is an unusual decision. ‘We wanted to do it because we wanted to
Above (clockwise from top): San Francisco Cosmora ring; exquisite detail of the Beijing Cosmora ring; the Wempe atelier in Schwäbisch Gmünd; Wempe By Kim frst collection, Sensual
PHOTOS: MATTHIAS HOFFMANN
66 | F E AT U R E S
PHOTOS: DOMINIK GIGLER
S H O P | 67
show that we were able to do it – that we have the art and we have the knowledge to do it,’ Wempe explains. With two women at the helm who are producing innovative, adventurous creations such as Cosmora, Wempe is demonstrating its commitment to beautiful jewellery. For a brand primarily known for its expertise with watches, this has been no mean feat. As By Kim continues to be admired as one of Europe’s premier jewellery brands, Wempe is proving to be not only one of the most committed but also one of the most exciting jewellery companies in the world wempe.com
68 | E X P E R I E N C E
TABLE TALK Hamburg’s restaurants have a long tradition of featuring excellent fsh and exotic ingredients, thanks to the city’s location and role as a major trading centre. Isabella Redmond Styles samples the delights
Thanks to its riverside location and the short distance to the coast, Hamburg has long been associated with great fsh and seafood. As a major trading centre, for centuries the city has had a constant supply of exotic and expensive ingredients, resulting in cuisine that stands out from other German cities. Whether served fresh or fried, herring is an intrinsic part of Hamburg’s trading history and is a plentiful North Sea catch that can be found on menus throughout the city. As can the traditional and modest Aalsuppe, a stew of vegetables, herbs, dumplings and eel or monkfsh. Not surprisingly, there is no shortage of seafood restaurants here. The simplicity of Das Seepferdchen, set on the banks of the Elbe, makes this restaurant one of the best choices. By contrast, two-Michelin-star Haerlin ofers a very sophisticated menu; it celebrates the region’s favours and also combines them with international ingredients in playful and imaginative ways. Au Quai presents impressive waterfront views and a great choice of seafood. Meanwhile, for modern fusion food and a striking, urban-chic setting make tracks to Eisenstein in the Altona neighbourhood. globalblue.com
S H O P | 69
EISENSTEIN Hamburg’s stylish crowd focks to this striking restaurant located in the Altona district. Housed in a converted factory complete with exposed brick and huge windows, it ofers an industrially chic dining setting. The menu presents an adventurous mix of German, Italian and Mediterranean fusion food. Try starters such as fried mackerel with panzanella or smoked duck with lentils and orange, and then choose from an imaginative range of mains, which might include supremely comforting safron risotto with wild prawns, or rigatoni trapanese with sausage, feta and basil. The pizza, fresh from Eisenstein’s wood-fred oven, is some of the best in town. Favourites include Bon Bonito with a combination of spicy tomato sauce, Sicilian vine tomatoes, wild garlic pesto and raw yellowfn tuna. Eisenstein, Friedensallee 9, 20357 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 390 4606, restaurant-eisenstein.de
70 | E X P E R I E N C E
HAERLIN With two Michelin stars and numerous other awards, Haerlin has a reputation for gastronomic excellence that extends well beyond Hamburg. In the elegant dining room, guests sample the innovative and perfectly executed menu of executive chef Christoph Rüfer and his team to a backdrop of Chinese silk tapestries and beautiful fower arrangements. Starters such as duck liver and crayfsh are followed by the likes of Norwegian lobster with yellow beetroot, passion fruit and tonka bean, and oxtail with smoked potato mash, Périgord trufe and lemon. For a special event, book the Haerlin Salon for an intimate dinner or the chef’s table to watch some gourmet wizardry in action. Haerlin, Neuer Jungfernstieg 9, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3494 3310, restaurant-haerlin.de
globalblue.com
S H O P | 71
AU QUA I You’re unlikely to fnd a better dinnertime view than the one from the terrace at Au Quai. The waterfront restaurant is beautifully located and has a stylish outdoor terrace that in summer is a big draw for the fashion crowd. Head chef Lukas Ben Schröder whips up an impressive array of Mediterranean-infuenced dishes. Using regional and organic produce, he produces seafood creations such as tuna steak with cashew crust, and excellent bouillabaisse. The menu’s meaty mains range from beef roulade and saddle of venison to duck. Leave room for dessert; the choice includes a delicious variety of seasonal sorbets. Or opt for the impressive French cheese board. Au Quai, Grosse Elbstrasse 145, 22767 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3803 7730, au-quai.de
DA S SE E PF E R DCH E N
Its name means seahorse and its location is on the Elbmeile waterfront just around the corner from Hamburg’s fsh market, so it might not come as a surprise that Das Seepferdchen has a menu that highlights seafood. The restaurant is situated in a former warehouse that was part of the old fsh market and it has a bright, informal interior with driftwood details. During the summer months, there are few nicer places in the city to enjoy an aperitif than the restaurant’s harbourside terrace. After drinks on the waterfront, take your pick of the menu, which focuses on local produce and Hamburg specialities as well as ofering appealing meat options such as carpaccio with parmesan, or rump steak. Seafood features as catch of the day, with favourites of lobster and grilled tiger prawns showcasing the freshness and quality of ingredients that Das Seepferdchen uses. Das Seepferdchen, Grosse Elbstrasse 212, 22767 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3861 6749, das-seepferdchen.de
SHOPPING IS 19% BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE.
Join Global Blue for free, explore your city, ďŹ nd the best stores, and save up to 19% on everything you buy. globalblue.com/join
S H O P | 73
GUIDE
PHOTO: MEDIASERVER.HAMBURG.DE/ THOMAS HAMPEL
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Hamburg with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the fnest sweet treats to the coolest concept stores. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/hamburg.
A GLIMPSE OF HAMBURG Above: Hamburg has more canals than Venice and Amsterdam combined
74 | G U I D E
HAMBURG F LO R A-NEUMAN N-STR .
VOR WER KSTR .
STERNST RAS SE
ST R .
FELD ST R
L
OO
E
OR
PL
SP
LU DW
HE
LG
ST. PA UL I H A F
ENSTR
.
R ALLE E DE
HT-ST R.
B ÖH M KENST R.
V EN US B ERG
E IC H H
LANDUNGSBRÜCKEN
JO
D IT
OL Z MA
R -K
-S T OEL
R.
K AR PFANG ERST R .
HA
NN
ALTER ELBTUNNEL
Train Station
A R D -S T R .
ÄN
- N OC B ERN H A RD
IG - ER H
MICHAELIS CHURCH
OL Hotel Hafen Hamburg
LA TU
L
AT Z
AT Z
EE KAS TA NIEN A L L
Lindner Hotel
SE
ST. PAULI
PI
AL
NW
LS HO EN
TT
NT
HÜ
ER
R STR A S
ILL
AT Z
NEANDE
M
Arcotel Onyx
RBAHN
PL LB U D EN
Riverside Hotel
PL
US GL
.
AC
TR SP IE
U-Bahn
ING
HA IS C
NS
R EEP E
*
EK
SE
TR . OY ER -S
NE
HE IN -H
.
AN
.
S EIL ER STR A SS E
Bulgari Channel the screen sirens of the 1950s and 60s in Bulgari’s jawdropping Diva fine jewellery collection. Bulgari, Neuer Wall 24, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3751 7351, bulgari.com featured on page 32
Place Of Interest
EN -S TR
SIM ON-V O N - U T RECHT-STR.
Mulberry Find a new favourite handbag at British brand Mulberry’s new boutique, where the décor and design takes inspiration from the English countryside. Mulberrry, Neuer Wall 69, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 5544 4620, mulberry.com featured on page 43
Tourist Information
ROOS
East Hotel
* 4
SIEV
ST R
PA U L-
* 3
MESSEHALLEN
FELDSTRASSE (HEILIGENGEISTFELD)
STER
Giorgio Armani Check out the new Giorgio Armani store, stocking the exclusive Luxury White capsule collection, on fashionable Neuer Wall. Giorgio Armani, Neuer Wall 69, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3099 78530, armani.com featured on page 41
NH Hamburg City
A SSE
B U DA P E
* 2
M ARK T STRASSE
TE
Chanel Discover Chanel’s new bigger and better premises in Bürgermeisterhaus. Chanel, Neuer Wall 75, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 5003 9190, chanel.com featured on page 40
WO H LWI LL
1
KARO LINENST RASSE
SHOP HIGHLIGHTS
Hotel
ISB
OL
LW
VO R S ET ZEN ER K
JUN
RBU WA
ED
GIU
STEPHANSPLATZ (OPER/CCH)
MU
ND
SS TR
- WA
LL
M DA M
A TORW
ESPL
LL
ANAD
EM
ER
S -A
LLE
E
E
KE
Hotel Alster Hof
LO
DREHBAHN
AR
AN
E DY B R Ü C K E
DS
BR
KE
M
.
ßE RA ST
RD FE
EN LI LI
L
IN
BA
AN
LL
DS
IN
TR
.
DA
M
E
SP
LE
RS
E NS T R .
STEINSTR.
RÖ
PP
EL
H
R WA
BR M AU
NDR
E
AHM
RB
A LT E
O RO
KT
OR
KA
I
E KOR
A ST
R AS
LO
HS
SE
EP
LA TZ
VE
RS
M
AN
E
.
NS
STR
LLE
NG
A IA
RK
LLEE
G KO
NGH
HON
KAA
SHA
OSA
R PA
TR
.
A M KAI S ER KAI
N
T
BE
E DO V
E FLE
WAREHOUSE DISTRICT
DT O
ELBPHILHARMONIE
P U MPEN
O
T RK GS
MA
.
S AU
SA N
O RK A I
K
EN
DIN
STR
T ORWA LL
80 S TEIN ST R ASSE
GR I M M
AM
AM SA N DT
HAMBURG MAIN STATION
Park Hyat B UG EN HA G
MESSBERG
B I EDER
.
S T E IN
page
H O P F E N SA C
KA JE N
BAUMWALL
TR
R A LT S TÄ DT E STR .
NESS
ZI
globalblue.com
I TA
NI ED ER NS T R .
K AT H A RIN EN
K EH RW
A SSE
RATHAUS
B E I S T. A N N
Madison Hotel
ST R
HAMBURG STOCK EXCHANGE
W IL L Y- B R A N DT-ST RA SS E
TO R
.
L
SS
MÖNCK EBERG
78
Sofitel
ST R .
TOWN HALL
HBF. NORD
AL
A
2
page
RÖDINGSMARKT
A AR
TR
MÖNCKEBERGSTR.
Steigenberger
SCH
NS
R. CK-S T
W
TR
3
EG
A EL I S
SE
1
STADTHAUSBRÜCKE M IC H
EN
RO
ER
ER
-S ALT E R ST EIN W
IS
M T-
SS
M
SSE
RW
BO
InterCity Hotel
NS
IE
EL
E
H
RA
N
E EU
JUNGFERNSTIEG
L AL
RA
ER
NG
IL
77
X ST
Hotel Barcelo Hamburg
KE
-W
4
page
WE
M AM
KUNSTHALLE (ART GALLERY) OC
ER
R EIH
IS
79
Renaissance Hamburg
R
Hotel Atlantic Kempinski
GL
HER
KA
page
TE
Ibis Hotel ÜC
GÄNSEMARKT Marriot
LS
L ZD
Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten
76
D
A ER
HO
CAFFAM A C
page
MB
NN
K
R
CK
-S I
ÜC
. GO
FO
CH
RGS
Grand Elysée
Radisson Blu Hotel
TR.
S H O P | 75
76 | G U I D E
Gerhofstrasse & Hohe Bleichen TR
.
DREHB AHN
TR HS
F
SC
HO
L EN
● HACKETT
G TIE ER
GF
RJ UE
● GOLDENE ZEITEN MONSOON/ ● ACCESSORIZE ● KAREN MILLEN ● MARC O’POLO ● BENETTON ● THE BODY SHOP ● EYECATCHER
● FLAMANT
JU
HOHE B
N TUEH L E T W I EF
N G FE RN
● PATIO ANTIQUES
ST
N
G
E
IE
ARGENTUM E K ●
SS
HE
R.
O GR
IC
ST
● GOSCHE SPECTATOR
E BL
ST
TE
. STR U N G ● ETRO
PO
T W IE
L AME
.
TR A SSE
FUH
ESPRIT ●
N
STR
HOFS
TR.
HALLHUBER ●
L E IC H E
ER
UN
KT
MEXX ●
NEUER WALL ● P.42 PRADA ● DIBBERN ● LUDWIG REITER ● LINETTE ● WOOLRICH ● PAUL SMITH ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● PETRA TEUFEL ●
E AT
NE
AR
GER
N EU E-A B C S
SEM
TH
NS
KA
GÄN
SE
BÜ
LK
GÄNSEMARKT
OS
APROPOS THE CONCEPT STORE ●
.
DA M MTO
CAFFAMACHERR EIH E
RS
GR
NE
R UE
W
AL
L
Neue-ABC Strasse, ABC-Strasse & Gänsemarkt SE
E AT
ER
STR
.
ER N
GF UN
R.
RJ
ST
WE
UE
AR RE KT PL UT Gänsemarkt Passage AY FR UR ● AN E & ● JUWELIER BECKER CH K ● THOMAS I-PUNKT R ● POLO SYLT NI UD EAP ● TATE ES O ● L SI F ● ● OSKA HAMBURG NG ● ● U ANNETTE GÖRTZ ● ● ● ST LI S ● KO R C H THE ABC SHOP ● ● U N KO E N E N E PO Ü V S ID STR LO T Z ON SE ER A B CER K SP NE O BE RT L M O DE N
SELECTED STORES IN GÄNSEMARKT PASSAGE: BUTLERS DIVA TRAUMKLEIDER ELB HAMBURG GÄNSEMARKT PARFÜMERIE GÖRTZ 17 JUN GUYS & DOLLS LABEL & TRENDS LES PETITS MAISON DE PARIS MERCEDEH-SHOES PANDORA QUARTIER 50 SIGNUM STORE UHRZEIT.ORG
N EUE-A BC S
CO
NE
●
EM
JU
TIK
ER
SA
STI
LM
TH
EG
OS
LIE EN ● RZ ● URB ER SU AN O OU PE TF R IT T BÜ DR ER SC Y S H
TR
.
GR
RS G ÄN S
●
GÄNSEMARKT
OP
DA MM
TO
CAFFAMACHERR EIHE
DREHB AHN
AS
SE
TR.
JU
N
G RN IE G
PO
TE
ST
T WIE
FE
LEN
ST
● DERENBACH WALTRAUD ● BETHGE PAPIERE ● BCBGMAXAZRIA ● MORGANTINI
FUH
ST R.
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Shopping Centre
U-Bahn
S H O P | 77
BUCHERER Heritage watchmaker H Moser & Cie and fne jeweller Bucherer have a lot in common. These independent companies from German-speaking areas of Switzerland were founded in the 19th century and so it is natural that they are long-time collaborators. Their most recent project – an addition to the existing Venturer line – is the Venturer Small Seconds Bucherer Edition. In white gold and with a 1960s convex design, the watch is inspired by H Moser & Cie’s historic pocket watches. Be sure to seek out this watch while in Hamburg, as it is exclusively available in Bucherer boutiques in Germany, Switzerland and Austria. Bucherer, Jungfernstieg 25, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 343467, bucherer.com * for map go to page 78
Grosse Bleichen
THA
N
JO MALONE BY HAMBURGER HOF PARFÜMERIE ● JUWELIER HANSEN ● BASLER ● GOLFINO ● ● BÄR-BEQUEMSCHUHE MEPHISTO ● 1,2,3 ●
L E IC H E
S TA D
MODEHAUS A STEEN ●
B
Bleichenhof
CHARLOTTE HH FLECK MODELLHÜTE MONIKA STORE 4 KIDS WOHNGEFÜHL
ALTER ST EI
NWEG
globalblue.com
DÜ ST EN ST RA
SELECTED STORES IN BLEICHENHOF:
E SS
NE
R UE
W
AL
L
OS
S
EI
CH
E
GR
TORQUATO ●
L EB
SS
ÜCK E
Hanse Viertel
BUCKLES & BELTS ●
EN
G RA UN R ST L S T - ND BNE N P O A L I A H H A D L U le r i a HE TH BUC AL Gal EI C e i ● HAR BL R er N E al SE ● RT r g T OS GÄ ise H GR s ● K a N EC K E au sh I K HE N U L OT R S n n ● AP TLE ma U RG ELY E ● BU uf MB EV C K ● Ka H A EE & R Ü US TR NB HA AB HE ● CR IC ● LE
USBR
BARBOUR BREE CHEZ ELLES DELSEY DOUGLAS EINS ZWEI DREI GRAF COX GÖRTZ HANSE HAUS HAMBURG CLASSICS JACQUES BRITT KIRCHHOFF DONNA KIRCHHOFF ESTABLISHED
KONPLOTT LACOSTE LA MODA LEYSIEFFER MOOTZ NOMINATION OPTIKER CARL PANDORA ROECKL SAHLING-BEST OF BEAUTY SANSIBAR SCHACHT & WESTERICH TABACALERA HANSEATICA TOTT VEGAS WMF BUBA SCHUH ●
HOHE B
SELECTED STORES IN HANSE VIERTEL:
SE
KT
JU
N
G
FE
RN
ST
IE
G
PO
ST
ST
RA
SS
E
BE
RG
ST
RA
SS
TE
PELZERSTR.
● BUTIK
LI
GN
ER
OS
Department Store
E
CLOSED ●
M
S C HA UE NBURGERSTR.
M
M
DA
Shopping Centre
RATH AU SSTR A SSE
E● IL & M E . E LC A ● ST DO NN T ● BA AN I ● GA G ION BR
Restaurant
HN
JO
●
B
RI
TE AL
Ö
GALERIE
M
Ö
BE KE C POSTER ● N
BE
L
AL
RW
E NK
M
SE
AS
TR
S RG
KE
NE
L
AL
W
R UE
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Global Blue Retailer
● BOGNER
U
NE
IN LL BA
M M DA APPLE ● P.43 SALAMANDER ● WEMPE ● LLOYD ● TEE GSCHWENDNER ● HEMDENSPEZI ● N MEISSEN ● DE CROCS ● KA GODIVA CHOCOLATIER ● R OREA LINGERIE ● E R A ALSTERARKADEN APOTHEKE ● S T BERNSTEINLADEN WALTER WITZKI ● AL
● CHRIST
AL
W ER
Alsterhaus
EB
SS
O GR
L
T AD CH G PO IE DE ST I E A BY RN HM EJ S SC S L LA I FE LD ER G UG RT LLE KE N GO LM DO A I EL M W JU ● ● D E E Y O & O I N R & / PA ● FR NG GE LE LIE A OX ● ● M A DA N K W E E R N G E E G AO ● I U T A J ● V ● B L E O L O MS A T Z ● ● CA MI / A / & C R ● AS GÖ SSO R ● TU LID NY E ● C A FA O M P R E I K E P ●● M SS ● TIF S HO BO TH S PT AM F ● CO A GO NE L O CH RU A ● R ● T ● A U EL NG U AD C H Z ● P B LO & G P R M A S ● ● NG A ● E M D RI AR RI R L ● CA OH M O N TO SO R FE D M E S M TO A X ER AM R N I I T ● T M AH AG HE W R A NG IS VUI ● / ● C BR U R RR E OT C ● ● AK UIS EL & AN ● OR FE RI ● L T ● LO U R GA TZ ● RE 2 TB REY N S ● L A D ’ S TO HIC U L EI E ● G P.4 N E H I E B O W S ● T O LVA Y C M UT ES SS W C H UO R CI ● ● SA L AD R S K C I● P EH E D R A P.32 8 DE T ● ● C ER EL GU T T S ● P.9 G AN EN ST HA RS TS DU È ● ER L S VIN RD PE IC O M N ● PO OS I E R J LB P IM E S Y ● DA M AR FO R H E H R ● K S L K L AH IC ER IE BU AS ● W O N C A AC R M ÜC ● NN RB ER M ● MO N L LIE BR S Ö B U AT T M P E A ● R ● VA E V HS A N ● A IE ● JUW L P TO E L EG N A ● EL CR A Z S G O L I W ● O PIA U ● JU A D MEL I E W IL D RO EN T R L AN ● I K EG LO M P E SIG 7 ● PO ESS 4 EC A E ● EN L L D A FL M LY ØR ● ER UX S AL EN L E B E IN ● RA LZ HN NE ● AL PE FA FA CK CA E 1 M ● CK TE Z ST T● P.4 R Ü RC 3 S A A LI B RÜ CO M IT ● P.4 N I B EN NB ● LA EI Y MA HA ● EL CH ST R R R 40 EI ÖB ● B E I O A P. E N M BL L● UL G ET PE M R EL OD ● GIO AN C M ● C H A+ ● B+ ●
R.
GST LU N AME
ROBBE & BERKING ● DONNA ●
EN CH I LE
BUCHERER ● P.77
BREUNING TRAURINGLOUNGE FIL A FIL DANIELS & KORFF GERRY WEBER GÖRTZ 17 HAMBURGER HOF PARFÜMERIE KLOCKMANN LEVI’S PETITE POUPETTE SHOWROOM HAMBURG STARLIGHT FEINE DAMENWÄSCHE TABACALERA HANSEATICA TITAN REISEGEPÄCK TORQUATO
EM
SELECTED STORES IN ALSTERHAUS: HERMANN STEGMANN ● A R ● ROTH’S ALTE ENGLISH APOTHEKE DOUGLAS ● ● AMERICAN APPAREL LANGHAGEN & HARNISCH ● ● OPTIKER BODE ALLIGATOR LEDERWAREN ● SCHUHKAY ● ● NIVEA HAUS VERO MODA ● JEAND HEUR EMIL ● AUST DRESS ● TR CIRO ● A B C-S SCHUHHAUS PRANGE ● LIU JO ● CHOPARD ● RENÉ LEZARD ● SELECTED STORES IN Hamburger Hof HAMBURGER HOF:
NS
GÄ
1,2,3 BREE BRIGITTE VON BOCH EYECATCHER H&M HUGO BOSS KARSTADT LONGCHAMP M NIEMYER OSCHÄTZCHEN IM ALSTERHAUS
AS
78 | G U I D E
Jungfernstieg & Alsterarkaden
Neuer Wall
S H O P | 79
QUALITY TIME Porsche Design embarks on a new chapter with the launch of its frst timepieces developed completely in house. The brand has had a horological department since 1972, but until now pieces have been created in collaboration with renowned watchmakers. The new models, the Chronograph Titanium Limited Edition and the Timepiece No1, are designed using the same principles that Professor Ferdinand Alexander Porsche applied to the very frst Porsche Design watch: optimal readability, technical perfection, high-quality materials and true functionality. Limited to 500 pieces each, these striking matte black watches are sure to become collector’s items. hl Porsche Design, Poststrasse 2-4, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 3344 1941, porsche-design.com
Poststrasse
SE AS
N
NS ER GF UN
RJ UE
NE
PEAK PERFORMANCE ● CLOSED ● ● DIESEL TIMBERLAND ● ● TOMMY HILFIGER KONPLOTT ● COMMA ● STEFANEL ● ● GÖRTZ 17 TOM TAILOR ●
PO
ST
G RN
E
FE
SS
N H E ● H&M
ST IE G
SE
IC
N
RA
R.
E BL
JU
ST
L E IC H E
KT
ST R A SSE
HOHE B
TIE
HS
SC BÜ
AR
HOF
GST
EM
GER
TR. STR A B C-
LU N
NS
ESPRIT ● A FELDENKIRCHEN ● BELLY BUTTON ● UMANI ●
N EU E-A BC S
GÄ
A FELDENKIRCHEN ●
AME
G
TR
.
VA L E N T I N S K A M P
BL
OS
CH EN BR
ÜC KE
HAU S B R Ü C
● PORSCHE DESIGN ● PEUTEREY ● SAHLING
EI
S TA DT
● CAMPER ● TOMMY HILFIGER ● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH STUART WEITZMANN ● ● ZARA FLORENCEMODA ●
GR
● BOSS
KE
L PUMA ● K A D AL R RA RW E TE U S NE AL
EN
BA
L
N LI
DA
M
M
80 | G U I D E
Mönckebergstrasse & Bergstrasse SELECTED STORES IN EUROPA PASSAGE:
GAMESTOP GÖRTZ H&M HALLHUBER HANDELSHAUS LÄGEL HÖGL SHOE FASHION HOLLISTER IDEE CREATIVMARKT INFLAGRANTE JACKPOT KULT L’OCCITANE MONSOON / ACCESSORIZE MORE & MORE OAKLEY ODLO ONE GREEN ELEPHANT PANDORA
AKTIV SCHUH BETTEN SASS BIANCO FOOTWEAR BIBA BENETTON BIJOU BRIGITTE BONITA BOSE CECIL CHRIST DOUGLAS ECCO EDC ETERNA GABOR-LLOYD
PAPETERIE BATHELT PILGRIM SIERCKE SCHMUCK STREET ONE STREET SUPER SHOES TALLY WEIJL TAMARIS TCHIBO TE THALIA THE HAIR COMPANY THEO WORMLAND TOM TAILOR TOMMY CRYSTAL TOMMY HILFIGER DENIM WMF ZERO
GL
O
CK
EN
GI
ES
SE
RW
AL
L
B
R SELECTED STORES IN AN DS KARSTADT: E
N
● ULRICH STEIN
D
SS
E
E 1,2,3 APRIORI BIBA DBH KARSTADT FEINKOST SWAROVSKI ST
RA
● EUROPA APOTHEKE
LI
BE
EN
● MALVIN ● FOTO-GREGOR ● SØR OSCAR LENIUS CLOSED DAMEN ● ● GÖRTZ 17 ● BUDNIKOWSKY IWAN
LI
RG
SS
A SS
STR IE N
Ü
ANSON’S ●
L IL
M
RA
N
Galeria Kaufof
● KRAEMER
● PIMKIE
● ORSAY
Levantehaus
B U G ENH AG ENST R .
STEIN STRA SSE
APRIORI BIBA PANDORA TABAKBÖRSE IM KAUFHOF N IE
PU
A SSE
Non-Global Blue Retailer
VE
NF
LE
ET
Shopping Centre
DER
MP
NST
R.
B U R CH A R D S
EN
A SSE WIL L Y- B R A N DT- S T R
Department Store
TR
.
● SATURN
A SSE ● MÖ-CITY APOTHEKE
GSTR
H
DOUGLAS ●
IITTALLA ●
MAC ●
● C&A
E P EL
MÄRKLIN MASSIMO DUTTI PRINCESSE TAM TAM SAHLING-BEST OF BEAUTY STEIFF GALERIE STRACOLAND SWAROVSKI TOWN HOUSE
DO
Global Blue Retailer
K EB ER
E
SELECTED STORES IN GALERIA KAUFHOF
K AT T R
D STWIETE
BADEORT CALVIN KLEIN COMPAGNIE COLONIALE H -GALERIE JACKPOT MARC O’ POLO
GÖRTZ ●
AppelrathCüpper
BR AN
A N DT-S T R
● ELSNER SCHUH ● ESPRIT FRIEDO ● WIESENHAVERN ● H&M ROLAND SE ● ● MANGO ● ADIDAS ● FOSSIL CHRIST ● ● WMF
R TO ER Karstadt ST
.
CH ENS TR .
W IL LY- B R
● BONITA ● FOOT LOCKER ● WEMPE HERRENAUSSTATTER ● BRAUN ● YVES ROCHER
STR
SELECTED STORES IN LEVANTEHAUS:
SE
ZARA ●
AL
IE D E RA
RAS
PETIT BATEAU ●
E
E
● THOMAS I-PUNKT
SCHM
● ENERGIE
● CARL PREDIGER ● SNIPES
● FIELMANN ● STADIUM
● JACK WOLFSKIN / GLOBETROTTER ● ANZUG-OUTLET
ST
GST
MONSOON/ACCESSORIZE ●
RA
BENETTON ● CHRIST ●
SPORT SCHECK ●
MONKI ●
WEEKDAY ●
ARA ●
TCHIBO ●
M DO
GR OS SE REI
BER MÖNCKE
MÖNC
RZ
Karstadt Sports
ST
Europa Passage
E SS
KU
Peek & Cloppenburg
HERRENAUSSTATTER BRAUN ● HAGEL THE HAIR COMPANY ●
G U I D E | 81
DESIGNER OUTLET NEUMÜNSTER HOW TO GET THERE By car From Hamburg: head north on the A7. Take exit 15 for Neumünster Süd and continue on the B205, following the signs for Designer Outlet. From Neumünster: follow Altonaer Strasse (K16), turn left on to Oderstrasse and follow the signs directing you to the front entrance. By bus From Neumünster: take the 7 or 77, which leave from in front of the railway station. By train From Hamburg: take the RE21020 to Neumünster. From Kiel: take the RE21023 to Neumünster. By taxi The journey takes approximately 40 minutes from Hamburg, Lübeck and Kiel.
globalblue.com
Designer Outlet Neumünster, Oderstrasse 10, 24539 Neumünster, +49 (0)4321 558 6880, mcarthurglen.com
PERFECT DAY
6pm 7 For All Mankind’s range of premium denim provides the perfect ft, and there’s a complementary selection of footwear, bags and casualwear.
Opening times Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sunday and public holidays: closed
10am Start the day at Gant Footwear where American sportswear heritage and European style combine to create a casual lifestyle collection.
12pm Take time out with a cup of Schärf cofee and a snack at Tackmann’s Cofee House.
4pm Find the perfect fnishing touches at Falke’s outlet store, which ofers everything from men’s socks to women’s hosiery.
2pm Adventurous types will love the collection of mountain-ready outfts on ofer at sportswear boutique Napapijri.
82
When you shop the world, shop tax free Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process. 1. Shop
Refund Ofce details:
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts. 2. Claim
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces. 89 / 93
93 / 94
Hamburg Airport Global Blue Terminal 1, afer security control, at the pier between gates A18 and A20. Go to check-in frst, ask for your labelled luggage and take it with you to customs. Customs stamps for luggage only at Terminal 1. Customs stamps for hand luggage behind security control at the pier between gates A18 and A20. Berlin Tegel Airport Terminal A, Service Centre, go to customs before check-in. Customs is situated beside the Global Blue Ofce Berlin Schönefeld Airport Terminal A, Departures, landside, second foor to the right of the café bar. Go to customs before check-in. Downtown Berlin KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24, 10789 Berlin Galeria Kaufof, Alexanderplatz 9 (Customer Service Centre, 5th foor), 10178 Berlin
Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
Шоппинг на 19% выгоднее, когда вы совершаете покупки с Tax Free Получите карту Global Blue, наслаждайтесь путешествиями и шоппингом в лучших магазинах, экономя при этом до 19% от стоимости ваших покупок globalblue.ru/join
84
TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 44: Creative Quarters
PHOTO: PATRICK REDLICH CC BY 2.0
Адрес креатива
Шоппинг-индустрия Гамбурга переживает культурное возрождение: в кварталах на северо-западе города открываются новые независимые бутики, модные рестораны и культовые бренды, - рассказывает Хамиш Монк. С начала 19 века Гамбург был центром развития европейской промышленности. Со временем город разрастался и вскоре превратился во второй по значимости порт на континенте, став для Германии воротами во внешний мир. Культурному перерождению города способствует превращение двух его районов, Sternschanze и Karoviertel, в интересное шоппингнаправление. В них открываются независимые магазины, богемные бары и globalblue.com
модные заведения. Чтобы попасть в район Sternschanze, нужно двигаться к северо-западу от центра города. В 1980-е в нем сосредоточились многочисленные независимые бутики, поп-ап магазины, модные бары и рестораны. Постепенно он превратился в очень живой, активный и продвинутый квартал, чем начал привлекать самых креативных людей Гамбурга. Среди таких творчески настроенных обитателей Sternschanze оказались и Анжелика Шульц и Петер Фриз. В 2000 году они вернулись в Гамбург из продолжительного путешествия по Азии и открыли один из самых интересных магазинов в этой местности под названием Mala. На его прилавках представлены
85
привезенные отовсюду ювелирные украшения, домашняя одежда и аксессуары. И его атмосфера весьма характерна для этой части города. «15 лет назад, когда мы открывали магазин, в Sternschanze приезжали люди без денег - рабочие, студенты и художники», - делится Фриз. Прошли годы – и район превратился в креативный и культурный ориентир: «Sternschanze представляет собой восхитительную смесь городских культур, - продолжает он. – Вечеринки, прекрасная еда, достопримечательности - здесь есть всего понемногу». Еще одно востребованное заведение в Sternschanze - это кафе Altes Mädchen. Оно получило свое название, которое в переводе означает «Милая моя девочка», в часть посвященной Гамбургу песни в исполнении звезды 1950-х Фредди Куинна. Несмотря на некоторую старомодность, Altes Mädchen по праву возглавляет местную индустрию крафтового пива, активно развивающуюся в Германии. Друзья и соседи Оливер Нордманн и Патрик Рутер выбрали для своего заведения колоритное место в отреставрированном зале рынка Schanzenhöfe. Они хотят сделать пиво основой современной немецкой гастрономии. «Мы открыли Altes Mädchen в марте 2013, и Schanzenhöfe оказался идеальным местом, поскольку находится в очень старом квартале, - вспоминает заместитель руководителя Тина Кюстер. – Пять лет назад мы открыли неподалеку свой первый ресторан Bullerei. И поскольку совсем рядом находится наша пивоварня Ratsherrn, в выборе места для пивного заведения у нас не было сомнений». По словам Кюстер, немаловажную роль сыграла и эклектичная атмосфера, царящая в этой части города: «В очаровательном Sternschanze встречаются самые разные люди и культуры, магазины и рестораны. Всякий раз, прогуливаясь по улицам, вы обнаруживаете нечто новое, и каждый уголок может в любой момент преобразиться». К востоку от Sternschanze находится Karoviertel, небольшой спальный район,
каких много в Германии. Однако в последнее время там тоже поселился креативный дух, подпитываемый гамбургской культурной жизнью. äдобно расположившись между городским центром и гамбургской ярмаркой, эта часть города сохранила свой собственный сельский колорит. Местные жители ласково называют свою местность «Каро», и буквально на их глазах здесь вырастают стильные ателье и бутики готовой одежды, принося району славу самого стильного в городе. Самый известный бутик в этой части города называется Garment. Его основали швея Катрин Мюллер и костюмер äллинка Шредер, учившиеся вместе в академии моды и дизайна Гамбурга AMD. Выбор на Karoviertel пал сам собой: «Здесь такая креативная, расслабленная, живая и открытая атмосфера, - делится Шредер. – Karoviertel считается маленьким и уютным. Действительно, он не такой многолюдный, как Sternschanze, но и тихим его назвать нельзя. Здесь много уникальных магазинов одежды, причем большинством из них управляют сами дизайнеры». Хороший пример – бутик Garment: на его витринах вы найдете мужскую и женскую одежду классического кроя с яркими и современными принтами. Тема сочетания старого и нового характерна для Karoviertel. Новые проекты, появляющиеся на фоне исторической архитектуры, привносят дух современности и укрепляют модный статус Karo. В последнее время здесь поселились разнообразные современные бренды, такие как Herr Von Eden или культовая американская марка American Apparel. Неповторимая атмосфера креативности Sternschanze и Karoviertel в сочетании с их старомодным шармом превращают Гамбург в новый богемный центр Германии. Он перерос свой прежний статус связующего звена между Германией и внешним миром – и теперь однозначно достоин особого внимания. malashop.com, altes-maedchen.com, garment-online.de
86
52: The New Normal
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
Новые нормальные
Коллекции весна/лето 2015 демонстрируют новую любовь модного мира к простой и функциональной роскоши, которую многие годы продвигают немецкие бренды, рассказывает Гвинет Холланд Внимание модного мира постепенно смещается от индивидуалистского гардероба-заявления к более спокойному, простому, даже «обычному» образу. Еще несколько лет назад такой эпитет напугал бы globalblue.com
дизайнеров и поклонников моды, но теперь эта «обычность» - последнее слово в стиле. С 2014 года модный мир обсуждает новый тренд – нормкор (normcore). Этим неоднозначным термином называют особую манеру одеваться расслабленно, целенаправленно избегая громких модных имен. Впервые такое название употребило нью-йоркское агентство прогнозирования K-Hole: «Нормкор сосредоточен на поиске свободы, которую дает подчеркнутая обыденность. Когда нет необходимости быть особенным, приходит раскрепощение. А вместе с ним – ощущение причастности к миру людей. Поэтому нормкор – это верный путь к мирной жизни». На авансцену выходит более практичный и менее броский образ. Модная индустрия с удовольствием приняла нормкор, который обозначил новый стиль – преднамеренно простой, с небольшим количеством украшений и особым вниманием к комфорту. То есть тот самый стиль, в котором истинными экспертами остаются немецкие бренды, от Adidas до Hugo Boss. Во время показов коллекции весна/лето 2015 в первых рядах заметно не хватало привычного блеска. Даже отъявленные модники и звезды стрит-стайла, стекавшиеся к входам в залы, предпочли простоту, удобство и изысканность. Можно предположить, что они транслировали одну и ту же ключевую идею: истинный стиль не нуждается в активной демонстрации. Спокойной уравновешенности в простом, но тщательно подобранном комплекте вполне достаточно, чтобы подтвердить умение одеваться со вкусом. В весенне-летних коллекциях дизайнеров от Нью-Йорка до Парижа можно обнаружить развитие этой темы: в центре внимание женственная и вместе с тем практичная манера. Туфли без каблуков, юбки средней длины, свободные брюки и мягкие силуэты появились во всех без исключения показах. Так, спортивные элементы с легкостью придавали изысканным комплектам ощущение легкой небрежности.
87
Знаменитый парижский бренд Céline также внес свой вклад в развитие нормэлегантности с помощью обманчиво простых (и невероятно востребованных) вещей дизайнера Фиби Фило. «Я надеюсь, что надевая одежду Céline, женщины чувствуют уверенность и силу… Мне совершенно неважно, как они одеваются, пока она делает это для себя», - поделилась с аудиторий Фило во время Vogue Festival в Лондоне. Подобная тонкая уравновешенность находит отклик в сердцах поклонников моды. Умеренность в духе Céline пришлась по вкусу многим дизайнерам и снискала популярность среди брендов доступного ценового сегмента. Так, например, на рейлах магазинов Zara и Cos преобладает сдержанная цветовая палитра черного, белого, синего и коричневого. Вместе с тем свой модный статус восстанавливает и нестареющая классика, например, тренчи, бретонские топы и ботинки с шнуровкой. Ведь теперь женщины вновь выбирают одежду для собственного удовольствия, а не в погоне за трендами. В результате, на модную арену вернулись джинсы и кроссовки (да и вообще обувь на плоской подошве). Лаконичные черные брюки и джинсовая куртка также перешли в разряд обязательных для гардероба, учитывая их бесконечные вариации в сочетаниях. Представители высокой моды выражают свое почтение к нормкору через мягкие силуэты, красивые ткани, удобный и функциональный крой. Сочетание комфорта и высшего проявления стиля давно оценили по достоинству ведущие немецкие марки: достаточно упомянуть, например, элегантную практичность Strenesse и подчеркнутую лаконичность Escada. éренд Jil Sander всегда отстаивал принципы той минималистской и продуманной роскоши, которая сейчас доминирует в модной сфере. Итальянский дизайнер Родольфо Пальялунга, занявший пост креативного директора Jil Sander после работы в Vionnet, тонко улавливает связь
между фирменной спокойной роскошью бренда и трендами весны/лета 2015. Под воздействием андрогинного образа швейцарской писательницы и фотографа 1930-х Аннемари Шварценбах, в новой коллекции появились темно-коричневые кожаные юбки и шорты, мягкие сиреневые и светло-синие рубашки, а также аккуратные короткие жакеты из хлопка и вязаные вещи. Дизайнер Джейсон Ву создал исключительно практичную коллекцию, для которой характерны угловатые узоры и палитра черного, белого, синего и темно-серого оттенков. В результате, минималистские костюмы, лаконичные платья-рубашки, однотонные блузки с короткими рукавами и сандалии без каблуков в своей непритязательной уравновешенности великолепно иллюстрируют принципы новой нормроскоши. Подобное стильное спокойствие немецкие марки демонстрируют не только на подиумах. Кроссовки Puma и Adidas можно увидеть на ногах трендсеттеров всего мира, а неброские аксессуары Bree украшают руки во всем мире. Создается ощущение, что фирменный немецкий стиль теперь стал тем самым новым нормальным. 60: Diamond Duo
Бриллиантовый Дуэт Немецкая компания Wempe, производитель роскошных ювелирных украшений и часов, представляет новую коллекцию под лейблом By Kim. Руарид Притчард встретился с владелицей Wempe Ким-Евой Вемпе и креативным директором Катериной Плучард Роскошные бренды нечасто делают значительные заявления под влиянием модных трендов, а не продаж. Но именно так поступает немецкая компания Wempe – эксперт в часовом и ювелирном деле. Недавно под маркой By Kim вышла новая коллекция Cosmora, которая выводит бесспорное качество и профессионализм Wempe на острие моды и стиля.
88
Wempe работает над лейблом By Kim с 2001 года: такое название он получил в честь владелицы компании Ким-Евы Вемпе, правнучки основателя ювелирного дома Герхарда Вемпе. За прошедшие годы было выпущено восемь серий, которые принесли By Kim славу одного из самых популярных ювелирных брендов Германии. В ноябре 2014 года Ким-Ева Вемпе и креативный директор марки Катерина Плучард представили выставочную коллекцию Cosmora. Она состоит из 12 колец, каждое из которых посвящено крупному городу мира, и знаменует новый этап в истории 138-летней компании, которой руководят две поистине бесстрашные и неравнодушные женщины. Вемпе и Плучард осознают важность женского управления ювелирным брендом: «Для меня сотрудничество с Wempe близко к идеалу, поскольку компанией управляет женщина, - комментирует Плучард. – Я люблю повторять, что готовить лучше всего немного голодным. Когда над ювелирными украшениями работают женщины, у globalblue.com
которых есть опыт не только их создания, но и ношения, проявляется определенная прозорливость и единодушие». Обе женщины гордятся тем, что знают потребности своих клиенток, ведь именно это понимание и привело их к созданию серии By Kim. «Команда изначально была исключительно женская. Мы путешествовали по ювелирным выставкам, в том числе дважды в год ездили в Париж за украшениями, прежде чем приступили к собственным коллекциям, - объясняет Вемпе. – Нам попадались американские покупатели, исключительно мужчины, они пристально рассматривали кольца, но интересовались только ценой, каратами, маржой и оборотом. Для нас же цена всегда была на последнем месте. Сначала мы примеряли украшение, брали его в руки, старались понять, каково будет его носить, и только потом задавались вопросом о цене». Поэтому в центре внимания By Kim ощущение, которое дарит украшение. «Поскольку мы – женская команда, то решили подойти к вопросу с другой точки зрения. Вероятно, из-за этого мы стали более критично относиться ко всему. Мы понимали, чего мы, женщины, хотим, но нигде не могли найти этого», - вспоминает Вемпе. Будучи покупательницами украшений, Вемпе и Плучард твердо знали: они должны не только хорошо выглядеть, но и быть удобными в использовании, приятными для прикосновений. «Мужчины редко размышляют в этом ключе, - объясняет Плучард. – Прежде чем соблазнятся глаза, украшение нужно попробовать телом – на уровне ощущений и удовольствия от ношения. На самом деле, именно это – самое важное». Неподражаемый уровень мастерства убедил Катерину Плучард, французскоитальянского дизайнера и ювелира, стать частью Wempe: «Когда мы познакомились, Катерина сказала: «Есть одна проблема – ведь это немецкая компания». Разумеется, как дизайнер с французскими и итальянскими корнями, при этом работающий на немецкую компанию, она могла бы подумать: «Всем известно,
89
как немцы делают машины. Но могут ли они создавать и ювелирные украшения?» – объясняет Вемпе. – Затем Катерина отправилась в ателье в Швебиш-Гмюнд знакомиться с нашими ювелирами. После чего сказала нам «да», поскольку своими глазами увидела: мы всегда знали, что делаем. Я с удовольствием думаю, что это как раз случай пересечения искусства и знаний. Тем более что Катерина утверждает, что никогда не встречала подобного качества в Италии или Франции». С тех пор под маркой By Kim вышло восемь коллекций. Первая из них, Sensual, состояла из подвесок и колец оригинальных форм. Причем перстни особым образом изогнуты, за счет чего воспроизводятся особенные ощущения при ношении. Кольца еще одной коллекции Helioro выглядят совсем иначе – они образованы из девяти переплетенных золотых нитей. И вот теперь выходит Cosmora. Каждый из 12 перстней посвящен определенному городу мира и повествует его историю. Центральный парк в Нью-Йорке, Эйфелева башня в Париже, золотой климтовский купол Сецессиона в Вене – вы не найдете ни одного повторяющегося сюжета. «Каждое кольцо красиво, более того, они весьма художественны и предлагают историю каждого места. Через них мы с Катериной поделились собственными впечатлениями о каждом городе», - комментирует Вемпе. В некоторых перстнях содержится более 200 драгоценных камней. И каждое из них профессиональные мастера, камнерезы и ювелиры в мастерской Wempe прорабатывали вручную. Коллекция не продается: кольца созданы только для осмотра в рамках выставки. Столь необычное решение Вемпе объясняет так: «Мы хотели продемонстрировать, что мы вообще можем создавать. Мы владеем теорией искусства и знаниями, как его воплотить». Эти две женщины у руля Wempe способны принимать смелые и инновационные решения, и Cosmora – отличный тому пример. Вместе тем, им удалось продемонстрировать преданность
компании прекрасному ювелирному искусству. И это значительный подвиг, учитывая, что Wempe известен, в первую очередь, в роли эксперта часового дела. А By Kim продолжает завоевывать все новых поклонников в качестве востребованного в Европе ювелирных брендов. Тем самым, и Wempe расширяет свою сферу влияния, превращаясь в одну из самых интересных ювелирных компаний в мире. wempe.com 82 : When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
90
美文翻译
44: Creative Quarters 创意街区 汉堡的商业区正经历一场文化复兴，西北部城 区迎来了一批独立店铺、前卫餐馆与另类国际品 牌，Hamish Monk报道
PHOTO: PHILIPP RATHMER
自19世纪初以来，汉堡就一直是欧洲中部产业革命 的源头。随着时间的推移，这座城市已成为欧洲大 陆第二大港口，也被广泛认为是德国通往世界的中 转站。如今，这座商业要塞正历经一场文化复兴，其 中的两片区域尤甚——Sternschanze和 Karoviertel——将成为德国最有趣的购物区，在这 里遍布着独立店铺、波西米亚酒吧与高档餐厅。 Sternschanze位于市中心西北部，并已成为 汉堡最具活力、最前卫的地区之一。自1980年代起 Sternschanze就一直被视为城中创新枢纽，其艺术 氛围今日依旧浓厚，该区的街道间林立着独立精品 店、临时商店、时髦酒吧与餐馆。这里吸引着汉堡最 有创意的人群纷至沓来。 其中两名典型居民是 Angelika Schulz与 Peter Freese，他们花费数年在亚洲旅行，并于 2000年回到汉堡开设了Sternschanze最引人入 胜的店铺之一，Mala。贩卖各式进口家居服饰、
珠宝与配饰的Mala非常本地化。 “我们15年前开 业， ”Freese解释道。 “当时居住在Sternschanze的 人们并没有多少钱，都是一些体力劳动者、学生和 艺术家。”自那时起，该区慢慢演变为一座创意与 文化熔炉。 “Sternschanze混杂着各种不同都市文 化， ”Freese继续说道。 “这是个开派对的地方、美食 聚集地，还是观光好去处；总之这里什么都有。” 另一处Sternschanze的热门场所是 Altes Mädchen，城中最流行的餐馆之一。译为“老女 孩”的Altes Mädchen得名于汉堡1950年代歌手 Freddy Quinn的一首歌。虽然名字或与过去有关， 但这家餐厅也是德国新兴的手工啤酒行业的中坚 力量。 由朋友兼邻居Oliver Nordmann与Patrick Rüther共同成立的 Altes Mädchen，位于修葺一 新的Schanzenhöfe市场大厅，致力于将啤酒重新带 回当代德国美食的核心。 “我们于2013年3月开始经 营Altes Mädchen，Schanzenhöfe是绝佳选址， ” 助理经理Tina Küster表示。 “这个区域历史悠久。 五年前我们在这里开设了首家餐厅，Bullerei，况且 Ratsherrn啤酒厂就在隔壁，我们确信这就是最理 想的地点。” Küster同时指出，该地区不拘一格的氛围也是 其中一大考量因素： “Sternschanze是汉堡一处非 常可爱、有趣的场所，这里有如此多不同的人群与 文化，不同类型的商店和餐馆。每次你漫步于街道
globalblue.com
91
间，都可以找到一些新鲜的东西，每一个转角都是 不同的。” Sternschanze的东面是Karoviertel，一处较小 的、传统工薪阶层聚集的住宅区，得益于城中持续 的艺术热潮，最近也开始展现出与临近街区相同的 创意精神。位于市中心与汉堡露天市场之间的这片 区域——本地人称为“Karo”——至今仍保留着独 特的乡村氛围。今日，这里聚集着高端定制店与成衣 精品店，使其脱颖而出成为汉堡最时尚的区域。 Karoviertel最引人注目的店铺之一就是 Garment。Kathrin Müller与Ullinca Schröder 这对友人，分别是裁缝与舞台装设计师，他们在汉 堡时尚和设计学院AMD相遇后创立了Garment。 选择在Karoviertel开店是一个相当容易的决 定。 “这里有着极具创意、悠闲、活泼与开放的氛 围， ”Schröder解释道。 “Karoviertel通常被称为小 街区。这里不如Sternschanze那么拥挤，但绝不沉 寂。这里最吸引人的是独树一帜的服装店，其中不 少都是由时装设计师亲自经营的。 “Garment是一 个最好的例子，这里贩售忠于经典廓型、但不乏缤纷 摩登的印花设计男装与女装。 旧与新的结合是Karoviertel周而复始的主题。 虽然该地区拥有许多历史悠久的建筑，涌入此处的 新商业为其平添几许摩登，同时进一步巩固了Karo 新近获得的时尚地位。摩登裁缝店Herr Von Eden 与热门美国品牌American Apparel，是该区域最新 开幕店铺中的两间。 创造力和包容的精神在Sternschanze和 Karoviertel同时可见，结合其自身的老城区魅力， 这两个区域正帮助汉堡蓬勃发展为德国的新波西米 亚核心。汉堡一直是德国通往其他地区的要道，然 而随着其全新创意街区的复兴，这座城市已然成为 值得花时间探索、而非简单途经之处。 malashop.com, altes-maedchen.com, garment-online.de
52: The New Normal 时尚新常规
2015年春夏，时尚界开始推崇简练的功能性奢 华——一种德国品牌久已熟稔的风格，Gwyneth Holland指出 时尚风向标正从强调个人主义、表达立场的着装转 向更为安静、简练与“常规”的风格。这是一个多年前 让设计师与时尚爱好者们感到害怕的词——然而如 今“常规”是风尚界的最新潮流。 从2014年起，一股新潮流开始在时尚界躁 动——normcore，一个戏谑的新术语，用来形容
那些着重于去繁从简、去商标化的造型。根据这个 词的始作俑者——纽约潮流预测机构K-Hole的解 释， “Normcore追求的是一种并不排他的自由。不 需要刻意追求特别因而获得解放，并且意识到适应 性带来归属感。Normcore是通往更为平静生活的 途径。” 更简单、更实穿、更少炫耀的着装法则如今开始 大行其道。Normcore已被时尚界广泛欣然接受，作 为一种故意从简、去装饰、着重舒适度的风格—— 而这正是从 Adidas到Hugo Boss等德国品牌最擅 长打造的风格。 在2015年春夏秀场上，前排座位上显而易见 地少了几分喧哗。即便在聚集于秀场周边的时尚弄 潮儿与街拍明星中，最主要的潮流也表现倡导更简 单、舒适与含蓄的美学。他们所传达的信息似乎是 真正时尚的人无需炫耀——那些简单但精心挑选 的单品所传达的安静的自信，就足以展示他们的高 超品味。 这一主题将贯穿整个2015春夏系列，来自纽约 或巴黎的设计师们也开始专攻女性化但实用的着 装。平底鞋、中等长度的裙子、宽大裤子与简洁线条 随处可见，即便是时髦的单品，也可见到几缕街头运 动风影响为其平添休闲感。 享誉国际的巴黎品牌Céline助长了“常规”着 装的势头，从设计师Phoebe Philo的看似简单，但 功能性强大的热门单品中可见一斑。Philo最近在 伦敦的时尚活动“Vogue Festival”上向观众透露， “ 我希望身着Céline的女性们感觉自信与强大…只要 女人们是为自己在穿衣服，不论穿什么我都没有意 见。”这份含蓄的自信显然深深引起了时尚爱好者们 的共鸣：Céline式的简练已经影响了不少设计师， 并被高街品牌争相效仿，黑色、白色、海军蓝和棕色 等一系列节制感色彩，主宰着Zara与Cos等品牌店 的陈列架。 随着越来越多的女性通过打扮取悦自己、而非 追逐潮流，风衣、布列塔尼条纹上装与系带鞋等经 典单品，也重新赢回了高端时尚地位。如此一来， 牛仔裤又重新回到了时尚聚光灯下，同时回归的还 有运动鞋——总体来说是平底鞋——层出不穷地 搭配时髦黑长裤或牛仔夹克，让他们变成时尚必备 单品。 高级时尚界对于normcore的解读强调简练线 条、精美面料、实穿性与功能性。主流德国品牌长久 以来深谙将实穿性与高级时装相结合的重要性，这 一点从Strenesse主导的实用优雅，或Escada的大 胆简约，都可以看到。 Jil Sander向来是如今主导时尚界的极简、缜密 奢华阵营的重要成员。如今在创意总监意大利设计 师Rodolfo Paglialunga（Vionnet前创意总监）的 率领下，品牌招牌式的干净、奢华的造型完美捕捉
92
了2015年春夏的潮流。受1930年代瑞士作家与摄 影师Annemarie Schwarzenbach的中性着装风格 影响，新系列以公牛血色皮革裙装与短裤，搭配素 雅的淡紫色或淡蓝色衬衣和针织衫，外罩轻微束腰 的棉质夹克。 在Hugo Boss，吴季刚（Jason Wu）则带来棱 角印花以及黑色、白色、蓝色与灰褐色等干净色调 的功能性极简西服系列，利落衬衣裙与单色短袖衬 衣，全部搭配以平底凉鞋。该系列所张扬的自信完美 体现了“常规”风时尚。 德国品牌并非只在秀场上表现全新的低调造 型：全世界的潮流领导者们脚上都穿着Puma与 Adidas运动鞋，手臂上都佩戴着Bree等品牌出品的 时髦配饰，看起来德国风尚已经成为了新常态。
60: Diamond Duo 钻石双杰
很难得看到一个品牌不受当前趋势与销售业绩影 响，推出大胆革新的系列，然而德国豪华腕表与珠宝 专家Wempe做到了。By Kim品牌旗下的最新系列 Cosmora，是真正独具匠心并将品牌专业工艺发挥 到极致的珍品。 Wempe在2001年推出By Kim系列珠宝，品牌 因公司创始人Gerhard D Wempe 的曾孙女，现任 拥有者Kim-Eva Wempe而得名。品牌目前已推出 了八个系列，By Kim俨然已成为德国最受欢迎的珠 宝品牌之一。 由12件精品珠宝组成的Cosmora在2014年11 月与大众见面。该系列由Kim-Eva Wempe与品牌 创意总监Catherine Plouchard共同打造，包括12枚 戒指，每一枚的灵感都源于一座国际大都市。该系列 将这间拥有138年历史的公司带入新时代，并由两名 强悍、充满热忱的女性执掌缰绳。 由Wempe与Plauchard两名女性掌舵对她们 来说都意义非凡。 “对我而言，为Wempe工作是完 美的，因为公司由一名女性掌控， ”Plouchard解释 道。 “当你与其他女性一起工作，你们对于珠宝都有 一定的洞察力，就像我常说的，要烹饪一桌好菜首先 得有好胃口。” 这两名女性以深知客户想要什么而骄傲， 而 这份了解正是当初促使她们推出By Kim品牌的原 因。 “这支团队开始只有女性，我们曾造访各大珠宝 展。在设计自己的系列之前，我们每年两次前往巴 黎购买珠宝， ”Wempe解释。 “我们见到那些美国买 globalblue.com
PHOTO: MATTHIAS HOFFMANN
德国奢华珠宝与腕表专家Wempe赋予旗下By Kim品牌大胆新面貌，Ruairidh Pritchard有幸 采访到品牌拥有者Kim-Eva Wempe与创意总监 Catherine Plouchard
家都是男性，他们拿着戒指仔细掂量，总是只关注 价格、克拉数、利润与营业额。价格是我们最不关注 的方面了。首先我们手握珠宝，感受它，试图想象佩 戴它带给人们的感受——价格永远是最后才考虑 的问题。” 珠宝带给佩戴者的感受是By Kim最关注的一 点。 “作为由女性组成的团队，我们有着截然不同 的出发点。或许也正因如此，我们对于市面上商品 的评价相当苛刻：作为女性我们知道自己要什么， 但是我们找不到， ”Wempe指出。作为珠宝的佩戴 者，Wempe和Plouchard深知珠宝不仅要外观漂 亮，还要有上佳触感以及好戴易搭。 “男人们不这么 认为， ”Plouchard解释。 “在目光被吸引之前，身体 首先要被诱惑——感受、与身体的接触、佩戴起来 令人愉悦，才是最重要的。” 拥有法国与意大利血统的设计师与金匠 Catherine Plouchard愿意加入Wempe团队， 得益于公司拥有高超工艺的美名。 “在我们见面 时，Catherine 说， ‘但我有一个顾虑......就是这是间 德国公司。’我深知作为法国与意大利设计师，为
93
一家德国公司工作她可能会想， ‘我了解他们会制造 汽车，但是他们真的能制造珠宝吗？’”Wempe解 释。 “然而当她走访过Schwäbisch Gmünd的工作 室，见到我们的金匠之后，她表示愿意加入，因为她 发现我们非常了解自己能做到什么。我喜欢将之视为 艺术与技术的结合，因为她说她从未在意大利或法 国见过这样的高超品质。” 自那时起品牌已推出了八个系列。处女作 Sensual是一系列自然造型的吊坠，与强调佩戴感 受的弧形戒指。 Helioro是另一组由九款相互缠绕 的指环构成的戒指系列。今日新作则是Cosmora 系列。 灵感来自于世界各地的12座不同城市，每一枚 戒指的设计不但体现地域特色也诉说着不同的故 事。从纽约与中央公园到埃菲尔铁塔与巴黎，到维 也纳的分离派建筑克里姆特金穹顶，每一枚戒指 都各有千秋。 “ 他们是非常漂亮的戒指，但也充满 艺术性，并叙述着每个地方的故事——这表达了 Catherine和我对各地不同的个人印象， ”Wempe 表示。 这些戒指——其中部分镶嵌了200多枚珍贵宝 石——都是在Wempe的工作坊中，由工匠大师、宝 石专家与金匠亲手打造的。该系列并不对外出售；每 一枚都只用作展览。这不是一项容易的决定。 “我们 希望这么做因为想要告诉世人我们做得到——我们 懂得艺术也有技术来实现， ”Wempe解释道。 由两名女性坐镇并创造出Cosmora这样创意独 具、大胆革新的系列，Wempe向世界展示着其对美 丽珠宝不变的承诺。对于曾以专精腕表而知名的公 司，这并非易事。随着By Kim被推崇为欧洲首屈一 指的珠宝品牌之一，Wempe也证明自己不仅是全球 最守承诺的，也是最令人兴奋的珠宝公司之一。 wempe.com
82: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程：
1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 （Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。
2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 的退税点领取您的退税款。 联系方式：
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€25并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请 注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管 理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取 现金退税手续费。 日本語翻訳
82: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利 用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街 にある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得 になります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。 手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップ を踏むだけです。
1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免 税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってくだ さい。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに。 2. 還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認 印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付 事務所で払い戻しを受けます。 € 25 以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格 の最高 14.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻 し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料 を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くだ さい。 一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希 望の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課 されます。
94
.D Wempeومع إطلق مجموعتها الثامنة ،باتت By Kim
Central Parkإل برج إيفل وباريس والقبّة الذهبيّة الستوحاة كل خاتم عن غيه. من Klimtف مبنى النشقاق ف فيينا ،يتميّز ّ "صحيح أنّها خواتم جميلة ،لك ّنها أيضاً فنيّة تقول :Wempe ٌ تعب عن انطباعاتنا الشخصيّة أنا و قصة عن ّ وتروي ّ كل مكان؛ ّ كل مكان". Catherineعن ّ تحوي بعض الخواتم ما يزيد عن 200حجر ثي وقد ُصنعت يدويّاً ف مشغل Wempeمن قبل كبار حرفيّيها وعلمء الحجار الكرية وصائغي الجوهرات لديها .ل يكن شاء الجموعة إذ ابتُكرت كل قطعة لتُعرض فحسب .إنّه قرار غي اعتيادي .تشح Wempeقائلة" :رغبنا القيام بذلك لنّنا أردنا أن نظهر أنّه باستطاعتنا القيام بذلك ،نتمتّع بالف ّن ولدينا العرفة الكافية للقيام بذلك". بفضل سيّدتي تديران المور وتنفّذان ابتكارات جديدة مغامرة عل سبيل ،Cosmoraتظهر Wempeالتزامها الجوهرات الجميلة .بالنسبة إل علمة تشتهر أصلً بخبتها بالساعات ،قامت بإنجازات هائلة .وفيم ل تزال By Kimإحدى الختصة بالجوهرات ف أوروبا ،تبهن أبرز العلمات التجاريّة ّ Wempeأنّها ليست مج ّرد إحدى أكث شكات الجوهرات التزاماً ف العال ،بل أيضاً إحدى أكثها إثارةً. wempe.com
الختصة بالجوهرات ف ألانيا. إحدى أشهر العلمات ّ أُطلقت مجموعة Cosmoraالؤلّفة من 12قطعة ف شهر تشين الثان/نوفمب .2014ابتكرتها Kim-Eva Wempe ومديرة البتكار الف ّني لدى العلمة ،Catherine Plouvhard تبش تشمل 12خاتاً ،كُلً مستوحاً من مدينة عاليّة مختلفةّ . الجموعة ٍ تأسست منذ 138سنة والتي بعهد جديد للشكة التي ّ تسك زمام المور فيها امرأتان شغوفتان باسلتان. تدرك Wempeو Plouchardأهميّة تو ّل امرأتي زمام المور .تقول Plouchardف هذا الصدد" :العمل لعلمة Wempeرائع لنّها بإدارة امرأة .عندما تعمل مع نساء أخريات وبخاصة ف مجال الجوهرات ،تتضّ ح المور إل ح ّد كبي إذ كم ّ أحب أن أردّد دوماً ،الشعور بالشهيّة هو الطريقة الفضل للطهي". ّ تفتخر السيّدتان بعرفة طلب زبوناتهم وبفضل هذا الدراك ،أطلقتا مجموعة By Kimبالصل .تشح Wempe قائلة" :تألّف الفريق ف البداية من نساء فحسب وسافرنا إل معارض مجوهرات .ك ّنا نسافر إل باريس م ّرتي كل سنة لشاء الخاصة .ك ّنا نرى قطع مجوهرات قبل أن بدأنا بابتكار مجموعاتنا ّ مشتين أميكيّي ،كلّهم من الرجال ،يدقّقون بالخواتم ويركّزون دوماً عل السعر والقياط والهوامش والعائد .أ ّما نحن ،فكان أقل ما يه ّمنا .ك ّنا نحمل القطعة أ ّولً ونلمسها ونشعر با السعر ّ When You Shop The World, يحس الشخص لدى التزيّن بها ،وكان السعر دوماً سؤالنا الخي". ّ Shop Tax Free: 82 تركّز مجموعة By Kimعل الشعور الذي تبعثه الجوهرات .تقول Wempeف هذا الطار" :با أنّنا فريق مؤلّف عندما تتس ّوق حول العال ،تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة وربا لهذا السبب ،بتنا ندقّق من نساء ،بدأنا من نقطة مختلفةّ . أكث با نرى :علمنا كنساء ما الذي نريده ول نتمكّن من إيجاده ".تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من وبا أ ّن Wempeو Plouchardتتزيّنان بالجوهرات ،أدركتا 270,000متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال. أنّه ل يكفي أن تكون القطعة جميلة فحسب ،بل يجب أن تكون فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون حسيّة ويكن التزيّن بها .تشح " :Plouchardل يفكّر الرجال كل سنة؟ ما دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue بالمر بهذه الطريقة .فقبل أن تُغري القطعة العيني ،عليها أن تُغري الجسد ،لذا من اله ّم أن تبعث شعورا ً وتتفاعل مع الجسم عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. وتكون جميلة". اقتنعت الص ّممة والصائغة الفرنسيّة اليطاليّة Catherine .1تس ّوق Plouchardبالنضمم إل Wempeلا تتمتّع به العلمة الخاص أينم تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة من شهرة من حيث الحرفيّة الرفيعة الستوى .تقول :Wempe ّ "عندما التقينا ،قالت " Catherineلك ّنها ...شكة ألانيّة" .علمت بغلوبل بلو Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت. أنّه كونها مص ّممة فرنسيّة إيطاليّة تعمل لشكة ألانيّة قد تفكّر .2أطلب بهذه الطريقة "أعرف تاماً أ ّن باستطاعتهم صناعة السيّارات، ف طريق العودة إل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة لكن هل يكنهم ح ّقاً ابتكار مجوهرات؟" لك ّنها زارت مشغلنا ف الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد Schwäbisch Gmündوالتقت صائغينا ومن ث ّم وافقت الخاصة بنا. أحب تشبيه هذا التعاون بالدمج مكاتب الستداد ّ لنّها تأكّدت أنّنا ندرك ما نفعلّ . بي الف ّن والعرفة ،إذ قالت إنّها ل ت َر قط هكذا جودة ف إيطاليا للت ّصال: أو فرنسا". taxfree@globalblue.com مذّاك ،ابتكرت العلمة ثان مجموعات .تألّفت الجموعة +421 232 111 111 الول Sensualمن حل بشكل أعضاء وخواتم مبومة للتكيز عل الشعور التي تبعثه عندما تُلبس .وتألّفت مجموعة Helioroأنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره €25وادّخر حتّى 14.5%من ثن مشتياتك. يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة للخواتم من تسعة خيوط ذهبيّة فرديّة متداخلة مع بعضها عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري .ف بعض الطارات ،يُفرض البعض .وث ّة اليوم مجموعة .Cosmora ِ رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت كل خاتم من مدينة مختلفة حول العال وكان استوحي ّ بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي. قصة .من نيويورك إل وص ّمم ليمز إل الوقع ورواية ّ عددها ُ 12
globalblue.com
95
Diamond Duo: 60
ثنائ الاس
الختصة بالجوهرات والساعات الفاخرة مع إضافة العلمة اللانيّة ّ Wempeلس ًة جريئة جديدة إل مجموعتها ،By Kim تلتقي صاحبة العلمة Kim-Evaومديرة تصميمها الف ّني Catherine Plouchardبـ Ruairidh Pritchard حق غي متأث ّرة نادرا ً ما تقوم علمة تجاريّة بخطوة جريئة عن ّ بالوضة الرائجة وغي ُمحفّزة بالبيعات ،إل أ ّن Wempeالخبية بالساعات والجوهرات اللانيّة الفاخرة قامت بذلك .أضافت مؤ ّخرا ً مجموعة Cosmoraإل مجوهرات By Kimفأتت فريدة من نوعها وسلّطت الضوء عل الحرفيّة المتازة التي تتمتّع بها العلمة. تنتج Wempeمجموعة مجوهرات By Kimمنذ العام 2001وقد س ّميت بهذا السم نسب ًة إل صاحبة الشكة الراهنة الؤسس Gerhard Kim-Eva Wempeوهي إبنة حفيد ّ
PHOTO: MATTHIAS HOFFMANN
الحريّة التي تُرافق اللحصيّة .وتتمثّل هذه الحريّة بعدم التميّز إذ يؤدّي التكيّف إل النتمء .أسلوب normcoreهو السبيل إل حياة أكث سلماً". وأقل تباهياً ابتُكرت طرق اللّبس الكث بساطة وعمليّة ّ لتبقى .اعتمد قطاع الزياء بر ّمته مسورا ً أسلوب normcore يتقصد البساطة مع بعض الزخرفات وتركيز عل ليقدّم أسلوباً ّ الراحة؛ وهو أسلوب تتقنه العلمات اللانيّة من Adidasإل .Hugo Boss الصف ال ّول ف عروض ربيع/ غابت البهرجة غياباً تا ّماً عن ّ صيف .2015حتّى بالنسبة إل ر ّواد الوضة التب ّجلي ونجوم أسلوب الشارع الذين اعتادوا التج ّمع خارج أماكن إقامة عروض الزياء ،كانت التصاميم البسيطة والريحة والعفويّة خيارهم. حق ،ل حاجة للتباهي لذا جاءت الرسالة واضحة أنّه للتألّق عن ّ بل يكفي الوثوق ببعض اللبس البسيطة الختارة بعناية لظهار الفطنة ف السلوب .تصبغ هذه الوضة كافّة مجموعات ربيع/ ويتجل ذلك من خلل تركيز مص ّممي من نيويورك ّ صيف 2015 وباريس عل طرق ارتداء أنثويّة لكن عمليّة .تجدين الحذية التوسطة الطول والساويل الواسعة والخطوط السطّحة والتناني ّ كل مكان مع لسات من أسلوب ملبس الشارع النظيفة ف ّ الرياضيّة لضفاء نفحة عمليّة إل أكث الثواب أناقة. تساهم العلمة الباريسيّة الشهية Célineف زيادة تألّق اللبس العاديّة -النيقة من خلل قطع الص ّممة Phoebe Philoالبسيطة والرغوبة إل ح ّد كبي .قالت Phoebeمؤ ّخرا ً إل الجمهور ف مهرجان Vogueف لندن" :آمل أن تشعر الرأة بالثقة والق ّوة عندما ترتدي ...Célineل أمانع أن تلبس الرأة أي شء طالا أنّها اختارت أن ترتديه لنفسها ".تصدح أصداء هذه الثقة العفويّة بوضوح بي محبّي الوضة :تب ّنى مص ّممون كثيون بساطة تشبه تلك التي اعتمدتها Célineكم شاعت لدى علمات راقية ،وسادت اللوان الرزينة مثل السود والبيض والكحل والب ّني ف تشكيلت Zaraو.Cos ف الوقت عينه ،تستعيد بعض القطع الكلسيكيّة مثل العاطف الواقية من الطر والقمصان القلّمة والحذية بشائط مكانتها ف عال الزياء الراقية إذ تيل الرأة أكث فأكث إل ارتداء ما يروقها بدلً من تتبّع الوضة .بالتال ،عادت ساويل الجينز إل الضواء مع الحذية الرياضيّة – والحذية السطّحة بالجمل – ف حي بات السوال السود وستة من الدّنيم قطعتي ل ب ّد من امتلكهم نسب ًة إل احتملت تنسيقهم اللمحدودة. ف اعتمدها لسلوب ،normcoreتركّز الزياء الراقية عل الخطوط النظيفة والقمشة الجميلة وعنص العمليّة .لطالا فهمت علمات تجاريّة ألانيّة رائدة أهميّة دمج العمليّة بالزياء الراقية ،وظهر ذلك ف العمليّة النيقة التي اعتمدتها Strenesse والبساطة الجليّة لدى .Escada ولطالا أيّدت Jil Sanderبشدّة الفخامة البسيطة الدروسة التي تسود حاليّاً عال الزياء .اليوم ،وبإشاف الص ّمم اليطال ( Rodolfo Paglialungaعمل سابقاً لدى ،)Vionnetيلخّص أسلوب العلمة الدقيق الفاخر صيحات ربيع/صيف .2015استوحيت الجموعة من السلوب الذكوري/النثوي للكاتبة والص ّورة السويسيّة Annemarie Schwarzenbachف الثلثينات ،فدمجت تناني و–ورتات جلديّة باللّون الحمر القاتم مع قمصان وكنزات بلون اللّيلك
الزاهي أو الزرق الباهت إل جانب ستات قطنيّة ضيّقة الخص. أ ّما لدى ،Hugo Bossفاعتمد Jason Wuنقو–اً جامدة وألوان السود والبيض والزرق والب ّني الائل إل رمادي ف مجموعته العمليّة التي ض ّمت بدلت بسيطة وفساتي صفة منسقة قصية من دون أكمم وقمصان ناصعة قصية الكمم ،كلّها ّ مع صنادل مسطّحة .بالتال ،عكست الثقة التواضعة التجلّية ف الجموعة أسلوباً عاديّاً-أنيقاً. ل يقتص امتلك العلمات اللانيّة لهذا السلوب البسيط منصات العرض فحسب ،إذ مع انتعال محدّدي الوضة حول عل ّ العال أحذية Pumaو Adidasالرياضيّة وتزيي آلف اليدي بأكسسوارات رائعة من علمات مثل ،Breeيبدو وكأ ّن السلوب اللان بات السلوب العادي الجديد.
96
وتقع شق Sternschanzeمنطقة Karoviertelالصغر حجمً التي لطالا كانت منطقة سكنيّة للطبقة العاملة وقد بدأت مؤ ّخرا ً بإظهار ما تتمتّع به من نفحة ابتكاريّة تاماً كجارتها، وذلك بفعل الزدهار الف ّني التواصل ف الدينة .تُعرف هذه النطقة محليّاً بـ Karoوتقع بي وسط الدينة وأرض العارض ف هامبورغ وما زالت تحافظ عل ج ّو مميّز شبه قروي .تض ّم اليوم مجموعة من الخيّاطي الرفيعي الستوى بالضافة إل محلت مختصة باللبس الجاهزة ،ما يجعلها أكث مدينة عصيّة ف ّ هامبورغ من حيث الزياء. من التاجر البرز ف Karoviertelمتجر ّ .Garmentأسست الصديقتان؛ الخيّاطة Kathrin Müllerومص ّممة الزياء Ullinca Schrӧder، Garmentبعد أن التقيتا ف أكادييّة الزياء والتصميم AMDف هامبورغ .كان قرار فتح التجر ف Karoviertelسهلً للغاية .تقول " :Schrӧderتتمتّع ببيئة مبتكرة ومريحة وحيويّة ومنفتحة .غالبا ً ما ت ُس ّمى Karoviertel "الحي الصغي" .إنّها أقل اكتظاظاً من Sternschanzeوأهدأ ّ بأشواط .تتميّز بتاجر اللبسة الفريدة من نوعها التي يدير الكثي منها مص ّممون ".من أبرز المثلة عنها ،متجر Garmentالذي قصات كلسيكيّة وتصاميم يشمل ملبس للرجال والنساء ذات ّ مل ّونة ومعاصة. من الشائع دمج القديم بالجديد ف .Karoviertelبالرغم من وفرة الهندسة العريقة ف النطقة ،تضيف الكيانات التجاريّة الجديدة التي جاءت إل هنا لس ًة عصيّة ُمثِي ًة مكانة Karo الجديدة ف مجال الزياء .نذكر من السمء العاصة التي افتتحت خرا ً متاجر لها ف النطقة Herr Von EdenوAmerican مؤ ّ .Apparel من الواضح أ ّن روح البتكار والشموليّة ف Sternschanzeو Karoviertelوسحرهم العريق يساعد هامبورغ عل الزدهار لتصبح القلب البوهيمي الجديد للانيا .لطالا كانت الدينة ب ّوابة ألانيا إل سائر العال ،لكن بفضل مناطقتها البت ِكرة الجديدة ،باتت مكاناً يستحق الستكشاف وليس فقط محطّة عبور. ّ ،malashop.com ،altes-maedchen.com garment-online.de The New Normal: 52
العادي الجديد
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
تيعتمد عال الزياء لجموعات ربيع/صيف 2015الفخامة البسيطة العمليّة؛ السلوب الذي لطالا تب ّنته العلمات التجاريّة اللانيّة ،تقرير Gwyneth Holland يشهد عال الزياء تح ّولً من السلوب الفردي اللفت إل أسلوب أكث هدوءا ً وبساط ًة و"عاديّاً" .كان هذا الصطلح ُليعب الص ّممي ومحبّي الزياء منذ بضع سنوات ،لكن "عادي" هي الكلمة الحدث اليوم ف مجال السلوب. منذ سنة ،2014يتق ّرب عال الزياء من السلوب البتكر الجديد ( normcoreأي العادي والتواضع) وهو مصطلح ساخر لطريقة ٍ تت لي علمة لبس تركّز عل الطللة البسيطة التي ل ّ تجاريّة بصلة .بحسب وكالة K-Holeالنيويوركيّة لتوقّع الوضة والتي أطلقت الصطلح" :يسعى أسلوب normcoreإل تحقيق
globalblue.com
97
ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية Creative Quarters: 44
أحياء مبتكرة
PHOTO: MEDIASERVER.HAMBURG.DE/R. HEGELER
تشهد الساحة التجاريّة ف هامبورغ نهض ًة ثقافيّة وتر ّحب مناطقها الشمليّة الغربيّة بحلت مستقلّة ومطاعم غريبة وعلمات تجاريّة عاليّة مميّزة ،عل ح ّد قول Hamish Monk تشكّل هامبورغ مح ّركاً صناعيّاً ف أوروبا الوسطى منذ أوائل توسعت الدينة مع الوقت لتصبح ثان أكب القرن التاسع عشّ . مرفأ ف القا ّرة وتُعرف أيضاً بب ّوابة ألانيا إل العال .واليوم ،تشهد وبخاصة ف منطقتي؛ هذه الق ّوة التجاريّة الساحقة نهض ًة ثقافيّة ّ Sternschanzeو Karoviertelاللّتي تتح ّولن إل إثني من أبرز مناطق التس ّوق ف ألانيا بفضل ما تحويان من متاجر مستقلّة وحانات بوهيميّة ومطاعم فاخرة. تقع Sternschanzeشمل غرب وسط الدينة وقد أضحت إحدى أكث الناطق حيويّة وابتكارا ً ف هامبورغ .منذ الثمنينات، اعتُبت Sternschanzeالرقعة الخلقة من الدينة وما زالت مزاياها الفنيّة حاضة حتّى اليوم بفضل مزيج من الحلت الستقلّة والحلت الوقّتة والحانات والطاعم الجميلة .وقد جذبت بعض أكث الشخصيّات ابتكارا ً ف هامبورغ. نذكر من هؤلء السكّان Angelika SchulzوPeter Freese اللّذين أمضيا عدّة سنوات يسافرون ف أرجاء آسيا ،ليعودا سنة 2000إل هامبورغ ويفتحا متجر Malaوهو من أبرز التاجر مؤسسة محليّة ويشمل ف .Sternschanzeإنّه عبارة عن ّ تشكيلة واسعة من مستلزمات النزل والجوهرات والكسسوارات الحل منذ 15سنة وكانت الستوردة .يقول " :Freeseفتحنا ّ كالعمل Sternschanzeآنذاك مساح ًة لغي الرأسمليّي ّ
اليدويّي والطلب والف ّناني ".ومذّاك ،تط ّورت النطقة لتصبح بوتقة إبداعيّة وثقافيّة .يتابع Freeseقائلً" :تتمتّع Sternschanze بزيج مذهل من الثقافات الدنيّة .إنّها مكا ٌن مثال للحتفال وتناول الطعام والتمتّع بالعال؛ إنّها شاملة". من الماكن الميّزة أيضا ً ف Sternschanzeمطعم Altes Mädchenوهو من الشهر ف الدينة .إسمه يعني "الفتاة العجوز" وهو مستوحى من أغنية عن هامبورغ للمغ ّني Freddy Quinف الخمسينات .بالضافة إل ارتباط السم بالاض ،يقوم الطعم بح ّد ذاته عل صناعة البية الحرفيّة الصاعدة ف ألانيا. ّأسس الصديقان والجاران Oliver Nordmannو Patrick Rütherمطعم Altes Mädchenف باحة سوق SchanzenhÖfeالر ّممة وهدفا إل وضع البية ف قلب ف ّن الطعام اللان العصي .تقول الديرة الساعدة :Tina Küster "افتتحنا Altes Mädchenف آذار/مارس 2013ووجدنا SchanzenhÖfeالكان الثال لذلك .النطقة ج ّدا ً قدية. افتتحنا فيها الطعم ال ّول Bullereiمنذ خمس سنوات وبفضل مخمرة Ratsherrnاللصقة ،تأكّدنا من رغبتنا بالتواجد ف هذا الوقع". ص مساهم ٍة قويّاً فتقول: تعتب Küsterج ّو النطقة الميّز عن َ " Sternschanzeمنطقة جميلة ومثية للهتمم ف هامبورغ، تض ّم أشخاصاً وثقافات مختلفة وأنواعاً متعدّدة من الحلت كل والطاعم .كلّم مشيت ف الشارع ،تجد شيئاً جديدا ً وتختلف ّ زاوية عن الخرى".
98
POSTCARD
MONTBLANC The story of Montblanc began in 1906 when Hamburg banker Alfred Nehemias and Berlin engineer August Eberstein recognised the need for a diferent kind of writing instrument. They established a frm producing a pen with a built-in ink well, and by 1909 had settled on the company name of Montblanc – the name is said to refect the lofty heights that were aspired to. However, it wasn’t until the launch of the Meisterstück fountain pen in 1924 globalblue.com
that Montblanc truly captivated the world’s imagination. First handmade in Hamburg, the Meisterstück has gained cult status as the pinnacle of European craftsmanship and expertise. Today, Montblanc’s range has expanded to include watches, jewellery, accessories, eyewear and fragrance, all crafted with the level of care and skill that one has come to expect from the Hamburgbased company. th Montblanc, Neuer Wall 18, 20354 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 351175, montblanc.com * for map go to page 78
GANT STORES HAMBURG FL AGSHIP STORE NEUER WALL 80 ALSTERTAL & ELBE-EINK AUFSZENTRUM & AIRPORT-AIRSIDE W W W.GANT.COM
TIME AND ENERGY. THIS WATCH SHOWS YOU BOTH.
MANERO POWERRESERVE BOUND TO TRADITION – DRIVEN BY INNOVATION