SHOP Hanover SS15

HANOVER | ГАННОВЕР | 汉诺威 | ‫هانوفر‬

HANOVER Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2015

Page 28 KEEPING IT SIMPLE: discover Germany’s paredback, stylish normcore fashions

CHRIST jewellers and watchmakers in Hanover Ernst-August-Galerie · Georgstraße 31-33 · Leine-Center (Laatzen)

Passion. Made in Germany.

The CHRIST DIAMONDS Collection.

Experience diamonds in a whole new way at over 200 CHRIST specialty stores throughout Germany.

HANOVER ERNST-AUGUST-PLATZ

GALERIA Kaufhof Hanover – at the Ernst-August-Platz Welcome to the trade fair city of Hanover, where royal history and modern future go hand in hand. Your shopping paradise of GALERIA Kaufhof is located right at the city center by the main train station. GALERIA Kaufhof at the Ernst-August-Platz presents fascinating worlds of goods that convey new shopping pleasure with great range and price competence and comprehensive service offers.

Please scan the QR-code with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Hannover, Ernst-August-Platz.

GALERIA Kaufhof... ... makes you fall in love with Germany

GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

www.galeria.de

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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Руководство Германия

Maybe you’re already familiar with Hanover, or maybe it’s the frst time you’ve visited this bustling German city. Either way, SHOP magazine is sure to ofer something to surprise you. Discover the pared-back, stylish, German-designed normcore fashions that are taking the world by storm on page 28, meet Hanover’s most discerning cofee connoisseurs on page 34, and fnd out about the city’s newest concept store in our news pages.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Hanover. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free Global Blue Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

@shopcontent

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Welcome to Hanover

Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Nuremburg Oslo Paris

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CONTRIBUTORS

ILLUSTRATION: PIETARI POSTI

Pietari Posti Barcelona-based Pietari Posti, a long-time SHOP illustrator, created this season’s SHOP Hanover cover. Inspired by our feature on the popularity of normcore, the pared-back, no-label look that currently dominates the German fashion scene, the illustration shows a simply dressed fgure against a complex patterned background based on Hanover’s architecture.

Find out more about normcore in our feature on page 28.

Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Gwyneth Holland Journalist and trend consultant Gwyneth Holland works with leading brands and agencies to discover the future, and writes for global fashion and trend publications. She is one of the founders of fashion trends service Unique Style Platform. globalblue.com

Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims contributes to publications that include the Financial Times, Independent, Observer, Wallpaper and Esquire. His latest book is Icons of Women’s Style, published in April 2015.

Mónica R Goya Mónica R Goya, picture assistant at SHOP, is a journalist and photographer.

She loves hiking and sharing meals and conversation with family and friends. Mónica is involved in supporting human rights, especially food justice.

In the mood for fashion?

Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices. visit us: www.canda.com facebook.com/ca Hannover Georgstraße 21

Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам.

‫هل أنت راغب بآخر الصيحات؟‬ ،‫ ستجدون لدينا أخر صيحات الموضة‬.C&A ‫إذا ستسعد بما تقدمه محلت‬ ‫ وماعليكم إل أن تتمتعوا بالتسوق في‬.‫من ملبس السبور إلى قمة الناقة‬ ‫ لقد عودنا زبائننا الكرام على تشكيلة واسعة من ملبس السيدات‬.‫محلتنا‬ . ‫والرجال والطفال ذات النوعية العالية وبأفضل الثمان‬

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone

Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh

Cover illustrator Pietari Posti

Online production assistant Marina Nelson

Contributors Gwyneth Holland, Maria Kirchen-Hill, Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard

Online assistant Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He

Features editor Verity Hogan

Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liu

City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles

Chinese translators Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang

Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Assistant fashion and news editor Gemma Latham Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold

Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey

Print Dane Consultancy

Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien

Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline

Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Sarah Walker Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, George Trinick Artworking intern Samantha Junak

Country manager Jörg Schönbeck Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Sales manager Pino Dufter Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Hannover Marketing und Tourismus, Ernst-August-Platz 8, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 1234 5111, hannover.de

Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb

Creative editor/Deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts

Vice president sales Central Europe Thorsten Lind

Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova

Fashion and news intern Rebecca Fearn

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews

GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital marketing intern Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Digital intern Sammy Ha Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini

Chief Executive Officer David Baxby Chief Traveller Officer Craig Le Grice SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

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CONTENTS

PHOTO: JENS BÖSENBERG

p.25

P ROD U C T S 16 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Hanover this season 18 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N EWS 24 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Hanover 25 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F E AT U R E S 28 Cover Story: The New Normal For spring/summer 2015, the fashion world is embracing simple, functional luxury – a style that German brands have long understood, says Gwyneth Holland

34 Full Of Beans Artisanal and independent, the Hanover Cofee company is helping to educate a new generation of German cafeine connoisseurs, as Josh Sims discovers GU I DE 38 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Hanover ESSENTI A LS 44 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S 45 Русский Перевод 47 美文翻译 49 日本語翻訳 49 SOU V E N I R 50 The essential item to bring home

Above: the new Cos store in Hanover

Hannover, Georgstraße Karstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-Straße 2 | 45133 Essen

Fashion, Lifestyle & more Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience.

Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers.

Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey through our store Karstadt Hannover.

16 | P RO D U C T S

HERMÈS HERITAGE This calfskin wallet from Hermès features an embroidered horse and jockey motif by awardwinning French artist Hubert de Watrigant, a longtime Hermès collaborator. As a child, de Watrigant would sketch his father training racehorses at their family stables, which led to a lifelong interest in equestrian life. Hermès also has an equestrian heritage; the brand was established in Paris in 1837 as a luxury harness and saddle workshop, and became known throughout Europe and the wider world for its elegant, high-quality leather goods. During the Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 44

20th century Hermès accessories caught the attention of royalty and Hollywood actresses, which helped to seal the brand’s success; handbag designs such as the Kelly and the Birkin were named after its famous customers.

Visit the Hanover boutique to explore the Hermès lifestyle range, which includes leather goods, printed silk scarves, furniture, footwear and fashion. gl Hermès embroidered calfskin wallet, €2,800, Hermès, Luisenstrasse 8-9, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 322729, hermes.com * for map go to page 42

PHOTO: VICENTE SAHUC

CHECK OUT

购物时节省 高达19%， 享受免税购 物的卓越。

免费加入环球蓝联，探索您的城市， 逛最顶级的商店，每次购物节省高 达19％消费。 globalblue.com/join

18 | P RO D U C T S

TRANSIT TIME Comfort and quality are key when it comes to travel essentials, from clothing to accessories to luggage

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1. G-Star by Marc Newson T-shirt, €79.95, G-Star, Ernst-August-Galerie, Ernst-August-Platz 2, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 169 5708, g-star.com

3. Victorinox watch, €399, Victorinox, Karstadt, Georgstrasse 23, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 3050, victorinox.com

2. Marc O’Polo scarf, €39.90, Marc O’Polo, Ernst-August-Galerie, Ernst-August-Platz 2, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 169 7118, marc-o-polo.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 44

4. Rimowa Topas Stealth multiwheel suitcase, €819, Rimowa, Galeria Kaufhof, Ernst-August-Platz 5, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 36010, rimowa.com

S H O P | 19

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PHOTO: (7) MARCO TONNI

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5. Boss bag, €449, Horstmann & Sander, Georgstrasse 8, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 368010, hugoboss.com

globalblue.com

6. Lacoste shoes, €133, Lacoste, Karmarschstrasse 30, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 320250, lacoste.com

7. Diesel jeans, €280, Pohland, Ernst-August-Galerie, Ernst-August-Platz 2, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 123 4849, diesel.com

20 | P RO D U C T S

COCKTAIL HOUR Turn a simple black slip dress into something spectacular with multi-coloured gemstones and bold accessories

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3. Swarovski Cardinal earrings, €99, Swarovski, Ernst-August-Galerie, Ernst-August-Platz 2, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 123 5645, swarovski.com

2. United Colors of Benetton sandals, €49.95, United Colors of Benetton, Georgstrasse 24, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 301 7970, benetton.com Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 44

4. Mango dress, €59.99, Mango, Bahnhofstrasse 8, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 353 0346, mango.com PHOTO: (1) RICHARD PIERCE

1. Michael Kors Bombshell lip lacquer, 3.5ml, €27.99, Douglas, Karmarschstrasse 26, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 363 1361, michaelkors.com

S H O P | 21

PASTEL PINK Denim daywear becomes ultra-chic when combined with pale pinks and diamonds 1

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1. Marc Cain jacket, €249, Marc Cain, Luisenstrasse 7, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 360760, marc-cain.com

3. Chopard rose gold Imperiale watch, €37,040, Chopard, Luisenstrasse 7, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 360790, chopard.com

2. Roeckl CityColor Shopper bag, €229, Roeckl, Georgstrasse 38, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 323530, roeckl.com

4. Esprit jeans, €59.99, Esprit, Georgstrasse 14, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 519 4970, esprit.com

globalblue.com

SATURN HANOVER Expertise and a passion for technology

Saturn offers a wide range of fascinating branded products at attractive prices as well as expert advice and customised service. Just like at a trade fair, customers can find the latest trends in technology at the 2 Saturn stores located at Ernst-August-Platz in central Hanover and Isernhagen.

The products are as innovative as their presentation is striking: modern technology can be experienced first hand, variety and relevance are key. The range of goods includes product categories such as consumer electronics, new media, household appliances, telecommunications, computers, photography and video.

Customers can shop in their local store, but also online and even with their smartphone to later pick up their purchases from the store if they wish. Furthermore, the electronics retailer has installed an Xpress machine at Hanover airport. The company is one of the leading players in European electronics retailing.

Hanover Ernst-August-Platz 3 30159 Hannover

Isernhagen OpelstraĂ&#x;e 3-5 30916 Isernhagen

24 | N E W S

PHOTO: NIELS BRUCHMANN

SHOP WINDOW

COOL CONCEPTS Related Store, located in the heart of Hanover’s Nordstadt district, has quickly become a contender for the title of the city’s coolest concept store. Founded by Anne Rauchfuss and Holger de Boer, the boutique stocks an expertly curated selection of high-quality designer menswear and womenswear, all selected with sustainability in mind. As well as German brands such as A Kind of Guise, ATF Workshops and Hien Le, visitors will also fnd the duo’s favourite Scandinavian Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 44

labels, including Norse Projects and Our Legacy, many of which cannot be found anywhere else in Hanover. This spacious shop gives the owners an opportunity to display their unique tastes, and everything from furniture to books to accessories can also be found dotted around the charming boutique. If you’re lucky, your visit may coincide with one of the creative exhibitions sometimes held there. hl Related Store, Engelbosteler Damm 17, 30167 Hanover, +49 (0)511 8982 8550, related-store.com

S H O P | 25

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

A PEN FOR A PRINCESS

ROCK ON Straying from his tried-and-tested preppy look, Tommy Hilfger has taken inspiration from his love of music this season, presenting a collection flled with references to his favourite artists, including the Beatles, the Rolling Stones and Jimi Hendrix. The result is a strong look featuring bold colours and motifs, including the designer’s favourite stars and stripes. mkh Tommy Hilfger, Ernst-August-Galerie, Ernst-August-Platz 2, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 169 4534, tommy.com * for map go to page 40

The Muses Edition pen collections from Montblanc, themed around female icons of the 20th century, include this elegant design named for Princess Grace of Monaco, available in ivory-coloured resin with platinum-plated fttings or deep purple resin with Champagne gold fttings.

The cap and barrel rings feature engravings inspired by the rhombus patterns of the Principality of Monaco’s coat of arms, while the clip is adorned with a sparkling pink topaz. Founded in Germany in 1906, Montblanc became world-renowned for its highquality writing instruments.

The company continues to innovate aesthetically, creating beautiful, distinctive styles that help to preserve the art of handwriting in this technological age. gl Montblanc, Kröpckepassage 18, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 363 2437, montblanc.com * for map go to page 42

26 | N E W S

COLOURFUL CAIN One of the highlights of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week spring/summer 2015 in Berlin was undoubtedly German label Marc Cain’s catwalk show. Attended by celebrities and fashion editors, the event was as glamorous as the clothes themselves. Lighter-than-air silk blouses were tucked into high-waisted shorts, ofering a simple solution to summer dressing. For those seeking a more substantial look, jumpers in burnt orange worn over polka-dot shirts struck a cheery note on the catwalk. Bold colours and forals featured heavily in the collection, with photographic prints of ships used to great efect. Pieces such as a rattan handbag and an oversized feather necklace hinted at bygone voyages to farof destinations. th Marc Cain, Luisenstrasse 7, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 360760, marc-cain.com * for map go to page 42

HIGH-END BEATS When it comes to sound, Danish audio expert Bang & Olufsen knows its stuf. The company not only creates some of the bestquality headphones and home audio systems in the world, but also prides itself on pushing the boundaries of premium sound. It’s no surprise, then, that Bang & Olufsen has launched the world’s frst high-end, compact wireless speakers. The new BeoLab 17 speakers, most recently reinvented in a matte black fnish, are beautifully minimalist, crafted from a single piece of extruded aluminium.

With their Bluetooth wireless connectivity they can be used throughout your home, ensuring you are surrounded by premium sounds whatever you’re doing. rp Bang & Olufsen, Karmarschstrasse 46, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 322332, bang-olufsen.com * for map go to page 40 Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 44

S H O P | 27

PHOTO: © APPLE

APPLE ARRIVES Technology giant Apple has opened its frst store in Hanover, on the city’s Bahnhofstrasse. The new store, located moments from the city’s central station, stocks the entire family of Apple products.

Discover the new Apple Watch, which links directly to your iPhone, allowing access to applications such as text messaging and map directions on your wrist. The Apple Watch’s beautiful design includes fnishing options such as 18-carat gold, as well as numerous strap options ranging from traditional leather to a high-performance sports band, so the watch can be customised to match the wearer’s own style. This makes it not only a piece of cutting-edge technology but also a stunning timepiece. rp Apple, Bahnhofstrasse 5, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 9362 0700, apple.com * for map go to page 40

H&M’s grown-up sister line Cos, known for its practical yet beautiful clothing, can now be found on Hanover’s Karmarschstrasse.

The Swedish label has gained a cult following for its unique, universally pleasing brand of Scandinavian minimalism and is a great place to stock up on basics – those looking for the perfect white shirt or tailored trousers need look no further. Cos’s clothes tend towards the simple and the modern, but with a stylish twist. For spring/summer, women should look out for the label’s avant-garde asymmetry, as well as some great work with laser-cut fabrics. Men would do well to invest in the label’s take on the trend for crisp whites, which look great against the bold, primary coloured tailoring on ofer. hl Cos, Karmarschstrasse 17-23, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 5390 2658, cosstores.com * for map go to page 40 globalblue.com

PHOTO: JENS BÖSENBERG

COS COMES TO TOWN

S H O P | 29

For spring/summer 2015, the fashion world is embracing simple, functional luxury – a style that German brands have long understood, says Gwyneth Holland

THE NEW NORMAL The fashion world is starting to shift away from individualistic, statement dressing and embracing a look that’s quieter, simpler and more ‘normal’. It’s a term that would have horrifed designers and fashion fans a few years ago – but ‘normal’ is now the last word in style.

Since 2014, the fashion world has been a-futter with the coining of a new trend – 45 /

47

normcore, a wry term for a way of dressing that focuses on a pared-back, no-label look.

According to K-Hole, the New York trend forecasting agency that came up with the term, ‘Normcore seeks the freedom that comes with non-exclusivity. It fnds liberation in being nothing special, and realises that adaptability leads to belonging. Normcore is a path to a more peaceful life.’

Lef: Strenesse spring/summer 2015

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

30 | F E AT U R E S

Simpler, more practical and less showy ways of dressing are here to stay. Normcore has now been gleefully co-opted by the fashion industry at large to denote a deliberately simple style with few embellishments and a focus on comfort – a style at which German brands from Adidas to Hugo Boss excel.

At the spring/summer 2015 shows there was a distinct lack of fashiness on the front row. Even among the fashion peacocks and street-style stars who have taken to gathering

outside the catwalk venues, the key trend was a simple, comfortable and subtle aesthetic.

The message seemed to be that the truly stylish have no need to show of – the quiet confdence of a few simple, well-selected garments is enough to demonstrate their style smarts.

This theme continues throughout the spring/summer 2015 collections as designers from New York to Paris focus on a feminine yet practical way of dressing. Flat shoes, midi-length skirts, wide trousers and clean

Above (clockwise from lef): Céline; Cos fashion; Cos accessories; Escada, all spring/summer 2015

S H O P | 31

Leading German brands have long understood the significance of mixing wearability with high fashion

lines are everywhere, with sporty streetwear touches adding a casual air to even the sleekest garments.

Acclaimed Parisian label Céline is helping to boost the appeal of norm-chic dressing, through designer Phoebe Philo’s deceptively simple – and hugely covetable – pieces. Philo recently told the audience at the Vogue Festival in London, ‘I hope when women wear Céline they feel confdent and strong … I have no problem with a woman wearing anything as

long as she has chosen to wear it for herself.’

And that subtle confdence is clearly resonating with fashion fans: Céline-like simplicity has been embraced by many designers and has become popular among high-street brands, with restrained colour palettes of black, white, navy and brown dominating the rails at Zara and Cos. At the same time, classic pieces such as trench coats, Breton-striped tops and lace-up shoes are regaining their high fashion

status, as women increasingly dress to please themselves, rather than chasing after trends.

As a result, jeans are back in the fashion spotlight, along with trainers – and fat shoes in general – while the endless adaptability of a sleek pair of black trousers or a denim jacket are making them must-haves.

The high-fashion take on normcore emphasises clean lines, beautiful fabrics, wearability and function. Leading German brands have long understood the importance

of mixing wearability with high fashion, seen in the elegant utility practised at Strenesse as well as the bold simplicity of Escada.

Jil Sander has always been a key proponent of the minimal, thoughtful luxury that’s currently dominating the fashion industry.

Now under the creative direction of Italian designer Rodolfo Paglialunga (formerly of Vionnet), the label’s signature clean, luxurious look perfectly encapsulates the spring/summer 2015 trends. Inspired by the androgynous

Above (from lef): Jil Sander; two Hugo Boss catwalk looks; Jil Sander, all spring/summer 2015

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

32 | F E AT U R E S

S H O P | 33

The unassuming confidence seen at Hugo Boss perfectly reflects norm-chic style

look of 1930s Swiss writer and photographer Annemarie Schwarzenbach, the new collection pairs sleek oxblood leather skirts and shorts with clean lilac or pale blue shirts and knits, alongside gently gathered cotton blouson jackets.

At Hugo Boss, Jason Wu brought angular prints and a clean colour palette of black, white, blue and taupe to his utilitarian collection of minimalist suiting, crisp shirtdresses and plain short-sleeved shirts, all

paired with fat sandals. The collection’s unassuming confdence perfectly refects norm-chic style.

And it’s not just on the catwalk that German brands are owning the new laidback look: with Puma and Adidas trainers on the feet of trendsetters worldwide and the kind of sleek accessories produced by brands such as Bree adorning arms across the world, it looks as though German style has become the new normal

FULL OF BEANS

With its artisanal approach and commitment to quality, independent company Hanover Cofee is helping to educate a new generation of German cafeine connoisseurs, says Josh Sims 46 /

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Above: Hanover Cofee’s distinctive cups

Most fathers want to pass life lessons on to their sons. In Fabian Berndt’s case many of these lessons involved cofee. ‘I wasn’t so into cofee before,’ he admits. ‘In fact, I didn’t really drink it at all. But as my expertise has grown … well, now I drink about half a litre a day.’

Berndt’s father, Andreas, is the founder of Hannoversche Kafeemanufaktur (Hanover Cofee), a young business that is helping to

educate the city’s citizens and cultivate a fner appreciation of quality beans. Andreas was a manager at various big companies before he began to roast cofee beans as a hobby – three years ago the hobby became a business.

‘He thought it would still be more of a hobby and ofer a laid-back life,’ says Fabian, the company’s spokesman. ‘But business has picked up very quickly.’

36 | F E AT U R E S

Indeed, this self-described micro-roaster now produces some 35 tonnes of ground cofee each year, with 20 diferent cofee types on ofer, incorporating beans grown on some of the world’s premium estates in 13 countries including Ethiopia, Guatemala and India.

And that is some achievement, given that a clean drum roasts just 15 kilogrammes at a time. But that is all part of Hanover Cofee’s quality control. Mass-market roasters often roast beans at very high temperatures and at high speed, taking anywhere from fve minutes to just 90 seconds per batch. In contrast, Hanover Cofee roasts at a much lower temperature over a longer period of time, all the better to remove the acids that can cause upset stomachs and to preserve the 1,000 or so diferent aroma compounds present in cofee.

‘That’s more than in wine,’ Fabian Berndt notes. ‘And it really does come down to the details. A batch roasted one morning might take 22 minutes, but the same batch could take 25

minutes in the afternoon, because atmospheric conditions are diferent. The only way you can make good cofee is by involving people who have a feel for the favour, aroma and colour they’re after. You can’t do it by machine.’

The process of educating customers also takes time. Germany had some 5,000 independent roasters 30 years ago, but most were slowly squeezed out by mass manufacturers. Now the country has around 1,000 and the industry is growing – Hanover Cofee has been very deliberately driving this point home by proudly naming itself after the city in which it was founded, and even using a local landmark in its logo. ‘It would have been very easy to have given the company a south Mediterranean, faux Italian-sounding name – but my family is from Hanover and we wanted to stress where the cofee was from,’ says Berndt. ‘That there is even an interest in cofee here in Germany surprises some people because, unlike, say, France and Italy with

Above (from lef): Hanover Cofee founder Andreas Berndt; the company roasts its beans at a lower temperature to preserve the rich aromas; Melange Hanovera cofee

S H O P | 37

their love of espresso, Germany is not typically associated with cofee.’

As he points out, there is actually a long tradition of cofee drinking in both Germany and Austria, particularly in Vienna, where his father underwent some intensive training.

‘In fact, we now drink more cofee than either water or beer. And it’s easy to convert people back to good cofee if we can only get them to taste it.’

Hanover Cofee specialises in a roast known as the Wiener roast; rather than the harder-hitting, sometimes ‘burnt’ favour of the Italian roast, the Wiener, depending on the beans used, gives a lighter, more complex drink. Berndt says that people sometimes think the Italian method is the only way to prepare cofee. ‘But for us it’s like preparing meat – you don’t want that burnt either,’ he explains.

‘You want it cooked.’

Attitudes to cofee are becoming more discerning all the time, he says – in line with

Hanover Coffee’s name and city-themed logo proudly reflect its German roots

a general shift towards the consumption of quality over quantity. ‘There was a time not long ago when most people in Germany would have thought of cofee chiefy as that dark liquid you drink to keep you awake,’ he says.

‘Now they understand that it can be enjoyed as a connoisseur product like any other – and one of our jobs is to get that message across.’

Those who visit Hanover Cofee might be surprised to fnd that, unlike in many other cofee houses, cofee is the only item on sale.

And what would Berndt recommend? Try the Melange Hanovera – a blend of several diferent single origin cofees, blended after roasting.

Or there is the Espresso Classico, ideal for those who use an espresso machine at home and like a classic cappuccino – ‘because you get a good cofee taste through the milk, whereas often that favour is lost,’ he explains. ‘And if you take this much trouble to get the roasting right, you don’t want to lose the favour.’ hannoversche-kafeemanufaktur.de

38 | G U I D E

GUIDE

PHOTO: © HMTG/MARTIN KIRCHNER

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Hanover with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the best boutiques to the must-see attractions. Start with our recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team.

A GLIMPSE OF HANOVER Above: the Marktkirche and town hall stand out over the city’s skyline

S H O P | 39

HANOVER HA

M

BU

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Hotel Loccumer Hof Hanover

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PL A TZH

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Etap Hotel Hanover City

Team Hotel Plaza

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TR

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FS

OR

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KA

SE

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LEIBNIZ HOUSE

R A SSE

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UF

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GE

NZ

TRA

IBI

GOP VARIETÉ THEATRE

THIELNPLATZ/ SCHAUSPIELHAUS HANOVER OPERA HOUSE

P RINZENST

LE HISTORICAL MUSEUM HANOVER

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EN

page

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Designer Outlets Wolfsburg AB

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KRÖPCKE Kastens Hotel Luisenhof

NI

E SS HANOVER CONGRESS CENTRE

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City Hotel Hanover

KÖ

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FF

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HI

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Grand Hotel Mussmann

SC

CLEVERTOR

RGS

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page

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HANOVER MAIN STATION

Central-hotel Kaiserhof

STEINTOR

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MARKTHALLE/ LANDTAG

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AEGIDIEN CHURCH

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B R E IT E

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FRIE

DRIC

HSW

AEGIDIENTORPLATZ M A RIENSTR A SSE

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Maritim Grand Hotel Hanover

LD

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WATERLOO

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TRADE FAIR HANOVER

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Tourist Information

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Train Station

Hotel

40 | G U I D E

SCHLOSS MARIENBURG

PHOTO: © HMTG

Schloss Marienburg is about as close to a fairytale castle as you can get. The Hanoverian monarch King George V had the castle built between 1858 and 1867 for his wife and its dramatic neo-Gothic style has been immaculately preserved. Set within romantic, verdant grounds, the castle plays a key part in the region’s intriguing history.

The restaurant, housed in the former stables, is also worth a visit.

Schloss Marienburg, Marienburg 1, 30982 Pattensen, +49 (0)506 934 8000, schloss-marienburg.com

Bahnhofstrasse, Karmarschstrasse & Rathenaustrasse Ernst-August-Galerie SATURN ●

H&M HORSTMANN & SANDER JACK & JONES ME H LJUWELIER KRAEMER STR AS SE L’OCCITANE LEVI’S LLOYD MARC O’POLO SE AS STR MEXX ER IL L H PIECESS C PROMOD S OLIVER SNIPES SWAROVSKI THE BODY SHOP THOMAS SABO TOMMY HILFIGER P.25 WMF

Galeria Kaufof

HST

ERNST-AUGUST-APOTHEKE ●

N OH DAV ER

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HANOVER OPERA HOUSE

RS E

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SSE

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Peek & Cloppenburg

MA

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BA

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● ESPIRIT ● DESIGUAL ● MANGO ● NEW YORKER ● MOBILCOM DEBITEL ● APPLE P.27 ● HE BY MANGO ● L’TUR FOOT LOCKER ● ● TELEKOM SPARKASSE ● ● LÖWEN-APOTHEKE HUGENDUBEL ● ● BIBA GEO ● HUSSEL H&M ● RGS TR A ● O2

SE

BENCH BIBA BIJOU BRIGITTE BOSE C&A CAMEL CHRIST DOUGLAS ESPRIT ETERNA FOSSIL G-STAR GERRY WEBER GEOX GÖRTZ

RAS

SELECTED SHOPS IN ERNST-AUGUST-GALERIE:

TR AS

AR

BANG & OLUFSEN ●

SELECTED SHOPS IN MÄNTELHAUS KAISER: BOGNER

● AUST DRESS

A N D ER BÖ

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P.26

KA

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ROSENTHAL STUDIO-HAUS ● MOTZIGKEIT ●

● SPORTSCHECK

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AS

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SE

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GOP VARIETÉ THEATRE

RS E

● WILHELM LIEBE

Mäntelhaus Kaiser

SE

DOUGLAS ● VON DER LINDE ●

● CITY-APOTHEKE

● VILLEROY & BOCH

● WÄSCHEKÖRBCHEN

● THORENZ HIFI UND VIDEO

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Place Of Interest

U-Bahn

Featured In This Issue

Shopping Centre/Mall

S H O P | 41

WEMPE Wempe is on a mission to keep watch fans happy with the latest addition to its Zeitmeister line. The new fagship style, the Wempe Zeitmeister Glashütte i/SA Chronograph Mondphase Vollkalender, combines two of the most popular horological features of previous styles, a chronograph and a full calendar including moon phase rank to chart the lunar cycle.

Other highlights include a 24-hour display and a pleasingly practical date display made up of a circle of dates that surrounds the dial. Once completed, each timepiece must undergo a rigorous 15-day testing procedure and is only approved if it reaches Wempe’s exacting standards.

Wempe, Georgstrasse 27, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 326988, wempe.com

ER

SCH ● A L IC K E P OT IS H EK ERE

Georgstrasse, Osterstrasse & Kröpckepassage E

TR

AS

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AT Z

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HOR

M IE

DES

C

●C L AU DIO HE SCH ● UI N R I C H UH ND H E RD A M E N E REN R AT MO HEN DEN AUS TR A SSE JUWELIER ● SCHRADER

TR A

SS E

Peek & Cloppenburg

HANOVER

OPERA HOUSE A● NN ● DO GHT ● SS N NI 0 E P.5 A N D E L E A R ● W E E ● ● JU H I T N S RY W U S E ● RK A W E IM HO KL M ● XU PR SIE A LU H O E O EC D E ● SE R ● U N S R AU ● M HO RNE GI O● EL EM LF ST VER ● GO D WE CHIB T ● S ER NO S T N TIK E HA ENIU PH ● RU J O B I DA ● P E O TT R L ● M L RN CA LO C A T RIU SL ER WE AR OS BA CH SØR K● C ● U M A EIT Z ● ● W EKE ● DE ● N I H CE L D T R N O E O AN H ● AP N D YM IZ L ÉG N OT VO N R A E E H IBN N TT LE TIC AN BE S T TM R ● RS RS NDE O HO H SA & ER

ST

GE

RA

R SE

DR A

KRÖPCKE

SE

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SSE

Café Kröpcke

OST

T- P L

RAS

TR A

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OR

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AN DE R B Ö

BAB

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Y- W A

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&D RAH B L ●C STM UCHHA EHMA N ● &A ANN NDL NNS UNG &S FOR AN DE ● R● EVE R ESP 18 ● RIT STO ● C KH EUR SCH & M ● O PA UHE -A P ● ●L O Y E CO VES THE KE Q RO DOU CHER ● SID GL A S ● OT H E D EI ● H EL LO C H M S T E P ●● ERR ANN ENM BIJO ODE U BR PIMKIE ● ●W IGI N ● E ● G MPE FOS T TE ● KRA S ● H IS Y S C EME IL ● &M APO HUH ● R● E L LO CHR -O IS T THE BENE P TIK ● T B T O KAR ON DY MA ● S M H R SC U TCH O P ● HST ● S S TA N G RAS IBO TO R SE ● E

SC

LZ ●

LÖG OPI E ● TZ ●

&F KER B EC

SSE

IS E

TR A

●A ● M LENA ON TBL AN LU

HLS

Karstadt

SCH

K NO CH E N H AUER ST R A SSE

ST -A

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IE

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DE

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Seilwinderstrasse, Grosse Packhofstrasse & Luisenstrasse ER

NS

TA

TR

KRÖPCKE

Karstadt

OSTER S

GRO

GÖRTZ ●

P.26

MARC CAIN ● HERMÉS ●

P.16

TERNER MODEN ●

SS

E

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● SALAMANDER

● ROLAND SCHUHE

TR AS

HI

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open-air swimming baths on the south bank.

The Maschsee Lake Festival, a three-week party that’s held every summer, includes music and entertainment across multiple stages and a variety of culinary specialities.

Maschsee Lake, Arthur-Menge-Ufer 3, 30169 Hanover, +49 (0)511 1234 5111

PHOTO: CHRISTIAN WYRWA

During summer, there are few better places to revel in the the natural beauty of Lower Saxony than Maschsee. This man-made lake is a half-hour walk from central Hanover and has been a favoured spot for regattas and water sports since its creation in the 1930s.

Once the temperature rises, seek out the

AUS

E AT HE

SO P HI EN

W ● SIGNUM STORE

MASCHSEE LAKE

M

SE

S

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DEERBERG ●

OR

T R S ● SCHUH-NEUMANN D E● MAX SPORTS HANNOVER N I

BIJOU BRIGITTE ●

L EI

● ZARA

HEN

GE

● WMF

R.

AC

Galerie Luise

HANOVER OPERA HOUSE

● HALLHUBER

Karstadt

JO

LUI

● WORMLAND

● BONITA

TR A

BREE SÖRENS

SCHLÖSSER ● PFEIFENSTUDIO ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ● HUNKEMÖLLER MÜHLHAUSEN ● ● PINOCCHIO ACCESSORIZE/ BANG & OLUFSEN ● P.25 MONTBLANC ● ● TIMBERLAND ● MONSOON

KHO

SSE

PA C

GERRY WEBER ●

SELECTED SHOPS IN GALERIE LUISE:

TZ

SEN

SSE

LA

KAUFLUST ●

FS HO HN BA

SE

TR A

RAS

RGS

T- P

CHOPARD ●

FST

GEO

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R SE

L ER

UG

AN DE R B Ö

H IL

A

Galeria Kaufof

AS

SC

STR

E SS

E

SSE

A SS

TR A

STR

HLS

SE

ME

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

U-Bahn

Featured In This Issue

Shopping Centre/Mall

Place Of Interest

S H O P | 43

DESIGNER OUTLETS WOLFSBURG HOW TO GET THERE By car From Hanover, take the A39 to Wolfsburg and turn of at the exit signposted West/ Autostadt. Once you reach the centre of town, follow the signs to Designer Outlets Wolfsburg.

Designer Outlets Wolfsburg, An der Vorburg 1, 38440 Wolfsburg, +49 (0)5361 893500, designeroutlets.com

PERFECT DAY

11am Ensure you dine in style by picking up some fne porcelain crockery from the collaboration with Versace at Rosenthal.

Opening times Monday-Saturday: 10am-7pm Sunday and public holidays: selected dates, see website for details

10am Get of the mark with a quick stop at sportswear specialist Adidas, known for ofering performance and style.

1pm Enjoy a tasty lunch or snack at Zett Bistro.

5pm

3pm

End your day with a visit to GK Mayer, which ofers handcrafted shoes that radiate Italian elegance.

Pick up a selection of sharp tailoring and more relaxed casualwear at menswear specialist Park Avenue.

globalblue.com

By train Trains from Hanover take 30 minutes.

Wolfsburg’s central station is just a two-minute walk from Designer Outlets Wolfsburg.

By bus All bus lines take you to the central bus station, which is located at the northern end of Porschestrasse, just a few metres from Designer Outlets Wolfsburg.

44

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So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

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Refund Ofce details: Hamburg Airport Global Blue Refund Ofce, Terminal 2, departures, between gate A18/A20 Berlin Tegel Airport Cash Refund inside Service Centre, Terminal A Berlin Schönefeld Airport Terminal A, departures, landside

Downtown Berlin KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24 Galeria Kaufof, Alexanderplatz 9 Frankfurt Am Main Airport Terminal 1, Hall B, level 2, landside Terminal 1, Hall B, level 2, behind passport control Terminal 2, Hall D, level 3, behind passport control Frankfurt Hahn Airport Travelex

Contact: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

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45

Translations РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 28: The New Normal

Новые нормальные

Коллекции весна/лето 2015 демонстрируют новую любовь модного мира к простой и функциональной роскоши, которую многие годы продвигают немецкие бренды, - рассказывает Гвинет Холланд Внимание модного мира постепенно смещается от индивидуалистского гардероба-заявления к более спокойному, простому, даже «обычному» образу. Еще несколько лет назад такой эпитет напугал бы дизайнеров и поклонников моды, но теперь эта «обычность» - последнее слово в стиле. С 2014 года модный мир обсуждает новый тренд – нормкор (normcore). Этим неоднозначным термином называют особую манеру одеваться расслабленно, целенаправленно избегая громких модных имен. Впервые такое название употребило нью-йоркское агентство прогнозирования K-Hole: «Нормкор сосредоточен на поиске свободы, которую дает подчеркнутая обыденность. Когда нет необходимости быть особенным, приходит раскрепощение. А вместе с ним – ощущение причастности к миру людей. Поэтому нормкор – это верный путь к мирной жизни». На авансцену выходит более практичный и менее броский образ. Модная индустрия с удовольствием приняла нормкор, который обозначил новый стиль – преднамеренно простой, с небольшим количеством украшений и особым вниманием к комфорту. То есть тот самый стиль, в котором истинными экспертами остаются немецкие бренды, от Adidas до Hugo Boss. Во время показов коллекции весна/лето 2015 в первых рядах заметно не хватало привычного блеска. Даже отъявленные модники и звезды стрит-стайла, стекавшиеся к входам в залы, предпочли простоту, удобство и изысканность. Можно предположить, что они транслировали одну и ту же ключевую идею: истинный стиль не нуждается в активной демонстрации. Спокойной уравновешенности в простом, но тщательно подобранном комплекте вполне достаточно, чтобы подтвердить умение одеваться со вкусом. globalblue.com

В весенне-летних коллекциях дизайнеров от НьюЙорка до Парижа можно обнаружить развитие этой темы: в центре внимание женственная и вместе с тем практичная манера. Туфли без каблуков, юбки средней длины, свободные брюки и мягкие силуэты появились во всех без исключения показах. Так, спортивные элементы с легкостью придавали изысканным комплектам ощущение легкой небрежности. Знаменитый парижский бренд Céline также внес свой вклад в развитие норм-элегантности с помощью обманчиво простых (и невероятно востребованных) вещей дизайнера Фиби Фило. «Я надеюсь, что надевая одежду Céline, женщины чувствуют уверенность и силу… Мне совершенно неважно, как они одеваются, пока она делает это для себя», - поделилась с аудиторий Фило во время Vogue Festival в Лондоне. Подобная тонкая уравновешенность находит отклик в сердцах поклонников моды. éмеренность в духе Céline пришлась по вкусу многим дизайнерам и снискала популярность среди брендов доступного ценового сегмента. Так, например, на рейлах магазинов Zara и Cos преобладает сдержанная цветовая палитра черного, белого, синего и коричневого. Вместе с тем свой модный статус восстанавливает и нестареющая классика, например, тренчи, бретонские топы и ботинки с шнуровкой. Ведь теперь женщины вновь выбирают одежду для собственного удовольствия, а не в погоне за трендами. В результате, на модную арену вернулись джинсы и кроссовки (да и вообще обувь на плоской подошве). Лаконичные черные брюки и джинсовая куртка также перешли в разряд обязательных для гардероба, учитывая их бесконечные вариации в сочетаниях. Представители высокой моды выражают свое почтение к нормкору через мягкие силуэты, красивые ткани, удобный и функциональный крой. Сочетание комфорта и высшего проявления стиля давно оценили по достоинству ведущие немецкие марки: достаточно упомянуть, например, элегантную практичность Strenesse и подчеркнутую лаконичность Escada. Бренд Jil Sander всегда отстаивал принципы той

46

минималистской и продуманной роскоши, которая сейчас доминирует в модной сфере. Итальянский дизайнер Родольфо Пальялунга, занявший пост креативного директора Jil Sander после работы в Vionnet, тонко улавливает связь между фирменной спокойной роскошью бренда и трендами весны/ лета 2015. Под воздействием андрогинного образа швейцарской писательницы и фотографа 1930х Аннемари Шварценбах, в новой коллекции появились темно-коричневые кожаные юбки и шорты, мягкие сиреневые и светло-синие рубашки, а также аккуратные короткие жакеты из хлопка и вязаные вещи. Дизайнер Джейсон Ву создал исключительно практичную коллекцию, для которой характерны угловатые узоры и палитра черного, белого, синего и темно-серого оттенков. В результате, минималистские костюмы, лаконичные платьярубашки, однотонные блузки с короткими рукавами и сандалии без каблуков в своей непритязательной уравновешенности великолепно иллюстрируют принципы новой норм-роскоши. Подобное стильное спокойствие немецкие марки демонстрируют не только на подиумах. Кроссовки Puma и Adidas можно увидеть на ногах трендсеттеров всего мира, а неброские аксессуары Bree украшают руки во всем мире. Создается ощущение, что фирменный немецкий стиль теперь стал тем самым новым нормальным.

34: Full Of Beans

Зерна силы Джош Симс рассказывает о независимой кофейной компании Hanover Cofee, которая через профессиональный подход к кофе и преданность качеству воспитывает в Германии новое поколение истинных ценителей этого напитка Большинство отцов с удовольствием передают сыновьям годами накопленную жизненную мудрость. Для Фабиана Берндта таким наследством стали знания и опыт работы с кофе. «Я не интересовался этой сферой раньше, даже как потребитель, - признается он. – Но поскольку теперь я знаю гораздо больше, то выпиваю около полулитра кофе за день». Его отец Андреас основал компанию Hannoversche Kafeemanufaktur (по-английски - Hanover Cofee), тем самым, взяв на себя globalblue.com

задачу воспитать кофейный вкус у жителей Гановера и объяснить им ценность качественных кофейных зерен. Еще работая менеджером в крупных компаниях, он интересовался обжаркой зерен. И только три года назад увлечение превратилось в полноценный бизнес. «Он думал, что будет и дальше заниматься этим как хобби, предаваясь расслабленной жизни, - рассказывает представитель компании Фабиан. – Но бизнес начал раскручиваться очень быстро». В своем описании Hanover Cofee использует слово «микро-бизнес», и это скромное преуменьшение: сейчас предприятие обжаривает около 35 тонн кофе в год! В ассортименте – 20 сортов из 13 стран-лидеров в сфере кофе, в том числе из Эфиопии, Гватемалы и Индии. Эти показатели особенно впечатляют, если учесть, что за один заход обжаривается только 15 килограммов. Именно в таких объемах можно контролировать качество, а именно оно играет решающую роль в деятельности Hanover Cofee. Крупные компании, работающие для массового рыночного сегмента, обжаривают зерна при очень высоких температурах и очень быстро – от 5 минут до 90 секунд. Hanover Cofee подходит к своему делу совершенно иначе: здесь используют пониженные температуры в течение длительного времени. Таким образом, из зерен выводятся кислоты, вызывающие расстройство желудка, и в то же время сохраняется до 1000 различных компонентов кофейного аромата. «Оттенков вкуса может быть даже больше, чем в вине, - отмечает Фабиан Берндт. – Главное, уделять достаточно внимание деталям. Например, утром порция кофе может обжариваться 22 минуты, но днем аналогичная процедура занимает уже 25 минут, поскольку изменяется атмосферное давление. Единственный способ добиться высокого качества – это заинтересовать процессом людей, способных воспринимать букет, аромат и цвет. И этого не может сделать машина». Задача воспитания покупателей тоже требует терпения. Еще 30 лет назад в Германии было около 5000 независимых компаний, обжаривающих зерна. Однако массовые фабрики вытеснили большинство из них. К настоящему моменту их осталось не больше 1000, но сама отрасль вновь начала расти. Для Hanover Cofee оказалось настолько важным подчеркнуть эту связь с родным городом в названии, что они изобразили главную достопримечательность Ганновера в логотипе.

47

«Было бы слишком просто выбрать название на средиземноморский лад, например, что-нибудь итальянское. Но моя семья из Ганновера, и мы хотели подчеркнуть происхождение кофе, - делится Берндт. – Вообще, люди часто удивляются, что здесь, в Германии, есть кофейная культура. Ведь обычно наша страна ассоциируется далеко не с кофе, в отличие от Франции или Италии с их любовью к эспрессо». По его словам, в Германии и Австрии воспроизводится весьма мощная кофейная традиция, особенно в Вене. Именно там его отец проходил интенсивное обучение: «В реальности, сейчас мы пьем намного больше кофе, чем воды или пива. Нет ничего сложного в том, чтобы обратить внимание людей на хороший кофе: достаточно убедить попробовать его!»

Hanover Cofee специализируется на венском типе обжарки. В отличие от терпкого, иногда как будто «подгоревшего» итальянского аромата, венский кофе, в зависимости от исходных зерен, дает более легкий, многосоставный вкус. Берндт считает, что порой люди воспринимают итальянский метод как единственный, и напрасно: «Можно сравнить обработку зерен с приготовлением мяса. Вы ведь не хотите его спалить – вы хотите его приготовить». По его наблюдениям, к кофе начинают относиться все более внимательно, и это в духе времени – предпочитать качество количеству. «Еще недавно многие немцы воспринимали кофе, главным образом, как ту черную жидкость, которую пьют, чтобы проснуться, - делится он. – Теперь же появилось понимание, что кофе можно наслаждаться, быть его ценителем. И одна из наших задач – распространить эту идею». Приверженцы этого движения, скорее всего, удивятся тому, что в Hanover Cofee, в отличие от других производителей, кофе – единственный продукт. Сам Берндт рекомендует попробовать Melange Hanovera – купаж оригинальных сортов, смешанных уже после обжарки. Espresso Classico идеально подойдет тем, кто пользуется эспрессомашиной и предпочитает классический капучино: «Поскольку вы пробуете кофе через слой молочной пенки, то главная задача – не утратить правильный аромат, - объясняет он. – А если вы основательно позаботитесь об этом на этапе обжарки, то уже никогда не захотите утратить этот аромат». hannoversche-kafeemanufaktur.de

44: When you shop the world, shop tax free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохораните чеки.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

美文翻译

28: The New Normal 时尚新常规 2015年春夏，时尚界开始推崇简练的功能性奢华——一种德 国品牌久已熟稔的风格。Gwyneth Holland报道 时尚风向标正从强调个人主义、表达立场的着装转向更为安 静、简练与“常规”的风格。这是一个多年前让设计师与时尚 爱好者们感到害怕的词——然而如今“常规”是风尚界的最 新潮流。 从2014 年起，一股新潮流开始在时尚界躁动——

normcore，一个戏谑的新术语，用来形容那些着重于去繁从 简、去商标化的造型。根据这个词的始作俑者——纽约潮流预 测机构K-Hole的解释， “Normcore追求的是一种并不排他的 自由。不需要刻意追求特别因而获得解放，并且意识到适应性

globalblue.com

48

带来归属感。Normcore 是通往更为平静生活的途径。” 更简单、更实穿、更少炫耀的着装法则如今开始大行其

34: Full Of Beans 咖啡飘香

道。Normcore已被时尚界广泛欣然接受，作为一种故意从 简、去装饰、着重舒适度的风格——而这正是从 Adidas到

凭借艺匠级手法与对品质的承诺，独立咖啡商汉诺威咖啡正培

Hugo Boss等德国品牌最擅长打造的风格。

育着德国新一代咖啡鉴赏家们，Josh Sims报道

在2015年春/夏秀场上，前排座位上显而易见地少了几 分喧哗。即便在聚集于秀场周边的时尚弄潮儿与街拍明星中，

多数父亲都会将生活经验传授给自己的儿子。对Fabian

最主要的潮流也表现倡导更简单、舒适与含蓄的美学。他们

Berndt而言他学到的多与咖啡有关。 “我之前对咖啡并没有那

所传达的信息似乎是真正时尚的人无需炫耀——那些简单但

么感兴趣” ，他承认。 “事实上，我根本不喝。但随着专业技能的

精心挑选的单品所传达的安静的自信，就足以展示他们的高

成长…好吧，我现在每天要喝半升。”

超品味。 这一主题将贯穿整个2015春夏系列，来自纽约或巴黎的 设计师们也开始专攻女性化但实用的着装。平底鞋、中等长度

Berndt的父亲Andreas是Hannoversche Kafeemanufaktur（汉诺威咖啡）的创始人，这份成立不久的 事业旨在帮助城中居民培养对高品质咖啡豆的鉴赏能力。在开

的裙子、宽大裤子与简洁线条随处可见，即便是时髦的单品，也

始以烘焙咖啡为乐趣之前，Andreas是一名曾在多间大公司任

可见到几缕街头运动风影响为其平添休闲感。

职的经理——三年前的爱好变成了事业。 “他仍旧觉得这是爱

享誉国际的巴黎品牌Céline助长了“常规”着装的势 头，从设计师 Phoebe Philo的看似简单，但功能性强大的热 门单品中可见一斑。Philo最近在伦敦的时尚活动“Vogue

好，并且能带给他悠闲的生活， ”公司发言人 Fabian 表示。 “然而 业务增长得非常快。” 事实上，这间自称为微型烘焙商的公司每年生产约35吨

Festival ”上向观众透露， “我希望身着Céline的女性们感觉自

研磨咖啡，供应20种不同的咖啡类型，使用全球13个最佳咖啡

信与强大……只要女人们是为自己在穿衣服，不论穿什么我都

种植地区的咖啡豆，包括埃塞俄比亚、危地马拉和印度。这可算

没有意见。”这份含蓄的自信显然深深引起了时尚爱好者们的

作是一种成就，因为每口烘焙锅一次只能烘焙15千克咖啡，是

共鸣：Céline式的简练已经影响了不少设计师，并被高街品牌

汉诺威咖啡品质控制的一种方法。大众咖啡产品的烘烤炉通常

争相效仿，黑色、白色、海军蓝和棕色等一系列节制感色彩，主

以极高的温度与极快的速度焙炒咖啡豆，每批大概花费从90秒

宰着Zara与Cos等品牌店的陈列架。 随着越来越多的女性通过打扮取悦自己、而非追逐潮 流，风衣、布列塔尼条纹上装与系带鞋等经典单品，也重新赢 回了高端时尚地位。如此一来，牛仔裤又重新回到了时尚聚光

到5分钟不等的时间。与此相反，汉诺威咖啡以低得多的温度烘 焙咖啡，并耗费较长的时间，从而在去除使胃部感到不适的酸 性物质的同时，保留存在于咖啡中的1000种左右的香味成分。 “那比酿造葡萄酒还复杂， ”Fabian Berndt指出。 “成功

灯下，同时回归的还有运动鞋——总体来说是平底鞋——层

来自于细节。在早晨烘焙一批豆可能需要22分钟，但在下午烘

出不穷地搭配时髦黑长裤或牛仔夹克，让他们变成时尚必备

焙一批就可能需要25分钟，因为大气条件是不同的。制作优质

单品。

咖啡的唯一途径就是让能感受到味道、香味与色泽的人来操

高级时尚界对于 normcore的解读强调简练线条、精美

作。机器没法办到。”

面料、实穿性与功能性。主流德国品牌长久以来深谙将实穿性

培育顾客群体同样需要时间。30年前德国有大约5000家

与高级时装相结合的重要性，这一点从Strenesse主导的实用

独立烘焙商，但多数都被大厂商挤占掉了市场份额。如今全国

优雅，或Escada的大胆简约，都可以看到。

Jil Sander向来是主导时尚界的极简、缜密奢华阵 营的重要成员。如今在创意总监意大利设计师 Rodolfo

约有1000家烘焙商并在不断增长——汉诺威咖啡非常强调这 点，并自豪地以所在城市命名，甚至在商标中使用本地地标。 “ 给公司取一个南地中海风格的意大利文名字并不难——但我的

Paglialunga（Vionnet前创意总监）的率领下，品牌招牌

家族来自汉诺威，我们想要突出咖啡的产地， ”Berndt 表示。 “

式的干净、奢华的造型完美捕捉了2015年春/夏的潮流。受

许多人对于德国人居然对咖啡有兴趣感到惊讶，毕竟我们不像

1930年代瑞士作家与摄影师Annemarie Schwarzenbach

法国和意大利人那么嗜浓缩咖啡如命，说到德国大家通常不会

的中性着装风格影响，新系列以公牛血色皮革裙装与短裤，

想到咖啡。”

搭配素雅的淡紫色或淡蓝色衬衣和针织衫，外罩轻微束腰的 棉质夹克。 在 Hugo Boss，吴季刚（ Jason Wu）则带来棱角印花以 及黑色、白色、蓝色与灰褐色等干净色调的功能性极简西服系 列，利落衬衣裙与单色短袖衬衣，全部搭配以平底凉鞋。该系 列所张扬的自信完美体现了“常规”风时尚。 德国品牌并非只在秀场上表现全新的低调造型：全世界

正如他所指出的，在德国与奥地利其实有着悠久的咖啡饮 用传统，特别是维也纳，在那里他的父亲接受了密集的培训。 “ 事实上，我们现在咖啡喝得比水或啤酒都多。如果人们能有机 会尝到好咖啡，那么说服他们转回咖啡阵营并非难事。” 汉诺威咖啡专注于一种维也纳式烘焙方法；不同于意大 利式烘焙强硬、有时“烤焦”的风味，维也纳式烘焙会根据不同 的咖啡豆，制造出更为轻柔、复杂的风味。人们有时误以为意大

的潮流领导者们脚上都穿着Puma与Adidas运动鞋，手臂上

利式烘焙是处理咖啡的唯一方法，Berndt 表示。 “然而对我们

都佩戴着Bree等品牌出品的时髦配饰，看起来德国风尚已经

而言这就像处理肉一样——你也不希望它烧焦。你希望它被处

成为了新常态。

理得恰到好处。”

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人们对于咖啡的态度正变得越来越挑剔，他说——人们将

年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルーの免税ショ

对量的追求转向对品质追求。 “曾几何时大多数德国人只将咖

ッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、

啡视为让自己保持清醒的深色液体， ”他表示。 “但如今他们明

青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店

白了咖啡也可以和其他品类一样用来鉴赏——我们的工作之一

員に「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のス

就是传递这一信息。”

テップを踏むだけです。

那些收到信息、前往汉诺威咖啡的人们或许会惊讶地发

1. お買い物

现，不同于其他咖啡馆，这里只贩售咖啡这一种产品。Berndt

お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税書類（タッ

会向客人们推荐什么呢？试试Melange Hanovera——一款

クスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。レシートを保管す

混合了几种不同单一产地咖啡的拼配咖啡，混配在烘焙后进

るのも忘れずに。

行。其他选择还有Espresso Classico，非常适合那些在家使

2. 還付請求

用浓缩咖啡机、喜爱经典卡布奇诺的人们——“因为加入牛奶

ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認印を押して

后咖啡会变得顺口，然而风味却丢失了， ”他解释道。 “如果你

もらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付事務所で払い戻しを

千辛万苦创造出几近完美的烘焙过程，你不会愿意损失咖啡

受けます。

的风味。”

€ 25以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高14 . 5％の払

hannoversche-kafeemanufaktur.de

い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税

44: When you shop the world, shop tax free

で、その旨ご了承ください。

畅购全球，尊享退税

れます。

（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた金額となりますの

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，环球蓝联 （Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您 节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得 购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询 商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简 单的退税过程：

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue

Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们在 您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点领取您的 退税款。 联系方式：

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€25并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请注意：最终 退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。部分机场还 将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退税手续费。

日本語翻訳

44: When you shop the world, shop tax free 海外でのお買い物が免税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用いただき ますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある27万軒を超える 加盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。

一部の空港で現金での即時払い

戻しをご希望の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課さ

‫ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية‬ When you shop the world, shop tax free: 44

‫ تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬،‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‬ ‫ خدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع‬Global Blue ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو‬ 270,000 ‫ لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من‬Tax Free ‫الضيبة‬

.‫متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال‬ ‫ مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع‬26 ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك إل أن‬ ّ Global Blue ‫الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو‬ ‫ وتتبع‬Global Blue ‫تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ .‫خطواتنا السهلة‬ ‫ تس ّوق‬.1 ‫الخاص بغلوبل‬ ‫ أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة‬،‫أينم تس ّوقت‬ ّ .‫ وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‬Global Blue ‫بلو‬ ‫ أطلب‬.2 ‫ أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة‬،‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‬ ‫لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب الستداد‬ .‫الخاصة بنا‬ ّ :‫للت ّصال‬

taxfree@globalblue.com

+421 232 111 111

‫ يشمل‬.‫ من ثن مشتياتك‬14.5% ‫ وادّخر حتّى‬€25 ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره‬ ‫مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة‬ ‫ يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي‬،‫ ف بعض الطارات‬.‫الضافة ناقص رسم إداري‬ ‫عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري‬ .‫نقدي‬

50 | P RO D U C T S

SOUVENIR

A BITTERSWEET LOOK When German womenswear brand Schumacher changed its name to Dorothee Schumacher, it meant a lot more than just a new logo. It was a realignment of the label’s identity with the women who identify with the founder herself. The disarming combination of strength and gentleness that infuses all Dorothee Schumacher’s pieces can be seen at its best in this season’s collection. This dark berry Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 44

dress, for instance, named Bitter Sweet, is also available in evocative colours such as blue mist, orange crush and pure white. But look a little closer and you’ll see it’s not all sweetness and light. The rufes suggest a harness, the sheer fabric reveals a hint of skin and the vampy hue contradicts the demure cut of the dress. th Dorothee Schumacher Bitter Sweet dress, €539, Donna, Georgstrasse 34, 30159 Hanover, +49 (0)511 1699 2882, dorothee-schumacher.com * for map go to page 41

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*Compared to the non-binding manufacturer‘s recommended retail price.