HOLLAND | ГОЛЛАНДИЯ | 荷兰 | BELANDA
HOLLAND
Page 44
City Edition Spring/Summer 2015
PRACTICALLY PERFECT: how the Dutch mastered day-tonight chic
Shop the world’s most exclusive brands, such as Louis Vuitton, Hermès, Burberry, Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo and Longines. Visit our flagship store in Amsterdam on Dam Square and receive your Tax Refund on the 4th floor. Find out more at deBijenkorf.nl/international
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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera
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Welcome to Holland
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Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Tokyo Vienna
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Let SHOP reveal a surprising side of Holland. Read about the footwear brand that’s pushing boundaries in design and manufacture (page 50), the country’s most innovative restaurants (page 58), and much more. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 16% when shopping in Holland. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Holland. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free Global Blue Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
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ILLUSTRATION: THOMAS DANTHONY
CONTRIBUTORS
Verity Hogan After working for a Mexican magazine and reporting in Romania, history graduate Verity Hogan swapped writing about crinolines and corsets for more contemporary clothes when she moved to London to pursue journalism. She is now SHOP’s features editor. globalblue.com
Thomas Danthony Thomas Danthony created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Holland. His eye-catching artwork has previously been commissioned by Microsoft, Nokia and M&C Saatchi, among others. His clever compositions make him a perfect illustrator for this cover, inspired by our feature about the versatility of Dutch womenswear on page 44. It shows a stylish woman in an outft that can take her from casual daywear to glamorous eveningwear with a few well-chosen accessories. Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
Theresa Harold SHOP’s fashion assistant Theresa Harold studied creative writing at Bath Spa University. Since then, she has worked in Hong Kong, Macau and London, covering the latest in luxury living. She has interviewed celebrities, designers, CEOs – and, memorably, a prince.
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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Thomas Danthony Contributor Kate Moore Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Production assistant Katie Muxworthy Features editor Verity Hogan City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Fashion and news intern Rebecca Fearn Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/ deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Sarah Walker Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, George Trinick Artworking intern Samantha Junak
PU BL ISH I NG Publisher James Morris
Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Online production assistant Marina Nelson Online assistant Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang Chinese translators Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov
GLOBA L BLU E NETHER LA NDS Head of commercial Benelux Marja van Reijn Marketing and sales manager Kathy van Haaren Sales and marketing support Nikki de Graaf, Regina de Neve Key account manager Peter Belang Account managers Arvind Gangapersadsing, Astrid Maes, Karish Resodikromo, Irene Schermer Global Blue Holland BV, Leidsevaartweg 99-6, 2106 AS Heemstede, The Netherlands, +31 (0)23 524 1909
Translation services Language Connect Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline AVP business development manager Patrice Janet
Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital marketing intern Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Digital intern Sammy Ha Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini
Chief Executive Officer David Baxby Chief Traveller Officer Craig Le Grice SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue
Elegance is an attitude Kate Winslet
Hobbemastraat 14 1071 ZB Amsterdam +31(0)20 303 1218
Conquest Classic
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CONTENTS p.44
P RO D U C T S 24 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Holland this season 26 My Favourites Jeweller Bibi van der Velden reveals her top tips for spring/ summer 2015 28 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N EWS 36 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Holland 38 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
F E AT U R E S 44 Cover Story: Efortless Cool Holland’s womenswear designers ofer an inviting blend of innovation and wearability, attracting international attention in the process, as Kate Moore discovers 50 Leading The Way United Nude continues to push boundaries in footwear design and manufacture. Founder Rem D Koolhaas talks to Verity Hogan about the brand’s past, present and future
Above: SuperTrash’s latest collection is a perfect example of the wearable yet innovative aesthetic of Holland’s womenswear brands
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CONTENTS E X PE R I E NCE 58 Table Talk Dining out in Holland is a rewarding experience, says Theresa Harold 64 Perfect Day Where to go and what to do in Rotterdam and The Hague
ESSENTIA LS 93 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S 94 Русский Перевод 98 美文翻译 100 Terjemahan Bahasa Indonesia
GU I DE 69 Maps and guides to Holland’s top shops and destinations, plus SHOP’s unique view of Amsterdam’s sights
SOU V E N I R 106 The essential item to bring home
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FLYING HIGH Inject a dose of colour into your summer wardrobe with this striking scarf from Hermès, made from hand-rolled silk twill. Designer Laurence Bourthoumieux has depicted two famingos in their native Florida, where they were once widespread, with the exotic creatures surrounded by lush vegetation. Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
This vibrant accessory is endlessly versatile – simply knot it around a handbag strap for a contemporary twist on a classic look. Hermès has become famous worldwide for the quality of its scarves; each one is woven from the best quality silk and fnished by hand. th Hermès silk scarf, €335, De Bijenkorf, Dam 1, 1012 JS Amsterdam, +31 (0)88 245 9176, hermes.com for map go to page 76
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PHOTO: © STUDIO DES FLEURS
CHECK OUT
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MY FAVOURITES: Bibi van der Velden Born in New York and raised in London and the Netherlands, Bibi van der Velden has a lifelong passion for art. She is a trained sculptor, which directly informs the beautiful jewellery she creates for her eponymous accessories label. Her pieces are inspired by nature and by materials she fnds on her travels. Here she shares some of her favourite products and places in Amsterdam with Gemma Latham bibivandervelden.com
1. ‘I love practically everything Anya Hindmarch makes and have built up a vast collection over the years. I defnitely have one of her new bags high on my wish list’ Anya Hindmarch, anyahindmarch.com
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2. ‘There’s a new generation of restaurants that serve pure, good food and where the interiors are simple but just right. The owners are fanatical about what they do, and their enthusiasm is inspiring. Rijsel is a good example’ Rijsel, Marcusstraat 52B, 1091 TK Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 463 2142, rijsel.com
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
3. ‘I really love Aesop. My skin is hypersensitive, but it reacts well to Aesop’s products. I also like the packaging and the wildfower scents’ Aesop Primrose Facial Cleansing Masque 60ml, €29, Skins Cosmetics, Runstraat 11, 1016 GJ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 240 0199, aesop.com
PHOTOS: (PROFILE) RVDA; (1) © GORUNWAY.COM; (2) JANUS VAN DE EIJNDEN
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5. ‘My signature fragrance is Philosykos from Diptyque’
6. ‘Scarab wings are a recurring element in my work. I love this ring’
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4. ‘I love what independent stores are doing at the moment; many are pop-ups, but Hutspot is a great concept and is open all year round’ Hutspot, Van Woustraat 4, 1073 LL Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 223 1331, hutspotamsterdam.com
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Diptyque Philosykos fragrance, 75ml, €98, Skins Cosmetics, Runstraat 11, 1016 GJ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 240 0199, diptyque.com
Bibi van der Velden Scarab ring in sterling silver and 18-carat gold with brown diamonds and a scarab wing, €2,495, White Space, Maarten Jansz Kosterstraat 18, 1017 VZ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 626 9095, bibivandervelden.com
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RISE AND SHINE Wake up to the dazzling possibilities of metallic accessories
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1. & Other Stories nail polish, €7, & Other Stories, Heiligeweg 26-28, 1012 XR Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 427 5139, stories.com 2. Happy Plugs earbuds, €34.16, Capi, Amsterdam Schiphol Airport (Arrivals 2), 1118 CP Schiphol, +31 (0)20 446 6310, happyplugs.com
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
3. Hugo sandals, €249, Hugo Boss, Leidsestraat 1-3, 1017 NS Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 422 1511, hugoboss.com 4. Cos printed silk coat, €135, Cos, Venestraat 17-19, 2511 AR The Hague, +31 (0)70 363 5773, cosstores.com
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BLACK GOLD
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1. Byredo Bullion eau de parfum, 100ml, €140, Skins Cosmetics, Van Oldenbarneveltstraat 137, 3012 GT Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 214 2505, byredo.com
3. Lennebelle bracelet, €49, Groos, Schiekade 203, 3013 BR Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 414 5816, lennebelle.com
2. Marc Cain skirt, €129.90, Marc Cain, PC Hooftstraat 126, 1071 CD Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 673 6155, marc-cain.com
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
4. Jimmy Choo stilettos, €425, De Bijenkorf, Dam 1, 1012 JS Amsterdam, +31 (0)88 245 3333, jimmychoo.com
PHOTOS: (1) © BOHMAN & SJÖSTRAND AB; (4) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY
Take a stroll on the dark side with accessories ft for a rock star
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5. Mulberry backpack, €1,690, Mulberry, PC Hooftstraat 46, 1071 BZ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 673 3222, mulberry.com
7. Swarovski necklace, €89, Swarovski, Spuistraat 12A, 2511 BD The Hague, +31 (0)70 360 4473, swarovski.com
6. G-Star coat, €179.95, G-Star, PC Hooftstraat 24-28, 1071 BX Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 471 1117, g-star.com
8. Dolce & Gabbana watch, €5,950, Dolce & Gabbana, PC Hooftstraat 106, 1071 CC Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 470 6468, dolcegabbana.com
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WANDERLUST Unleash your inner nomad with this travel-friendly ensemble 1
1. Marc O’Polo trench coat, €269.90, Marc O’Polo, Hartenstraat 9, 1016 BZ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 622 6416, marc-o-polo.com 2. Lieke van Opstal snood, €90, Damage Playground, Hillelaan 29, 3072 JD Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 751 1587, liekevanopstal.nl Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
3. Acne trousers, €250, Acne, Oude Spiegelstraat 8, 1016 BM Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 422 6845, acnestudios.com 4. Topman sunglasses, €34, De Bijenkorf, Dam 1, 1012 JS Amsterdam, +31 (0)88 245 3333, topman.com
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5. Scotch & Soda iPhone 6 case, €27.95, Scotch & Soda, Heiligeweg 34-36, 1012 XS Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 528 7661, scotch-soda.com 6. Moleskine travel notebook, €22.90, Scheltema, Koningsplein 20, 1017 BB Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 523 1411, moleskine.com globalblue.com
7. Lomography Diana camera, €119, Urban Outftters, 31-33 Kalverstraat, 1012 NX Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 422 2981, lomography.com
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PHOTO: MATEJA SAFHALTER
SHOP WINDOW
IT’S A MAN’S WORLD Founded by three young men from Amsterdam (a designer, a curator and an entrepreneur), Concrete Matter began life as a small webshop in 2012. The trio brought together a selection of goods for men that, as they describe, walked the line between beauty and durability. Moving to a bricks-and-mortar location just a year later, Concrete Matter is one of the more Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
interesting stores in Amsterdam, with one of the most consistently great selections around. You’ll fnd nothing forgettable, as the team strives against the culture of anonymous mass-production, and each piece is still chosen for that same balance of beauty and durability. All this and more is why it was voted ‘best shop in Amsterdam’ by local guide NL Streets. hl Concrete Matter, Haarlemmerdijk 127, 1013 KE Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 261 0933, concrete-matter.com
250 BRANDS - 30 -70% SAVINGS - 7 DAYS A WEEK HUGO BOSS - GANT - GUESS - NIKE - LACOSTE - MARC O’POLO G-STAR FOOTWEAR - LE CREUSET - ASICS - AND MANY MORE
WWW.BATAVIASTAD.COM
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ALL WOMAN
PHOTO: ASGER MORTENSEN
Beloved by street-style photographers and fashion bloggers alike, the efortless cool of Scandinavian fashion is epitomised by Danish brand Second Female.
Launched in 2010, the label has garnered international acclaim and is now sold worldwide. For spring/summer 2015, look out for Breton tops, leather biker jackets and oversized silk shirts aplenty; team them with tousled hair and minimal make-up for a real Scandi-chic look. th Second Female, Prinsengracht 417-419, 1016 HM Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 420 4151, secondfemale.com Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
KEEP FIT, HAVE FUN Exercise might not be everyone’s favourite pastime, but even the most gym-shy can agree that the right kit can make you feel ready for anything, and where better to stock up on the latest in sports gear than the Amsterdam Puma concept store? Designed by creative architects Plajer & Franz Studio, the colourful
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A WELCOME ADDITION
PHOTO: MANUEL SCHLÜTER/PUMA
Prada has opened its frst store in Amsterdam, on prestigious shopping street PC Hooftstraat. Spread over two foors, the Italian brand’s frst store in Holland has been created by architect Roberto Baciocchi, and takes inspiration from both the historic building and the urban landscape. The exclusive boutique showcases the label’s
store ofers a vast range of Puma’s modern and stylish sportswear, with a focus on the humble yet highly fashionable sneaker. Look out for interactive gadgets and tongue-incheek design elements throughout: Puma wants to put the fun into shopping for sports gear. hl Puma, Singel 429-435, 1012 WP Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 528 6166, puma.com * for map go to page 78 globalblue.com
latest collections, including women’s ready-to-wear, leather goods and women’s accessories, and has a dedicated footwear space featuring unique displays. The store also has a small private area, dedicated to the boutique’s special guests, where the walls and ceiling are covered in green velvet. es Prada, PC Hooftstraat 63H, 1071 BN Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 493 0510, prada.com * for map go to page 86
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SNEAKER GIRL The past few years have seen a notable growth in the female sneaker industry. Thanks to stores such as No Boys Allowed, all the major brands are fnally starting to invest more time and money in creating more technical and interesting models for women. No Boys Allowed currently has two stores, one in The Hague and one in Amsterdam,
which are the frst dedicated women’s sneaker stores in Europe. In addition to stocking a variety of brands, they are among the only stores in Holland to ofer exclusive releases and limitededition models. Pay a visit to either branch for the latest models, well-informed and enthusiastic staf and much more. dh No Boys Allowed, Prinsestraat 104, 2513 CG The Hague, +31 (0)70 780 2310, noboysallowed.nl
WE LOVE TIFFANY They say that diamonds are a girl’s best friend, and Tifany knows this better than most. Since it created its (literally) trademark Tifany™ Setting in 1886 – an elevated, six-prong setting that displays the stone to perfection – the brand has been at the forefront of engagement rings. The beauty and luxury of a Tifany engagement ring serves as a lasting reminder of a Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
love shared between two people. When it comes to one of the most important purchases of your life, you can put your complete trust in the experts at Tifany. mkh Tifany & Co, PC Hooftstraat 86-88, 1071 CB Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 305 0920, tifany.com * for map go to page 86
Beauty and more … visit Europe’ No. 1 perfumery!º WE WILL BE PLEASED TO WELCOME YOU TO THE DOUGLAS WORLD OF BEAUTY: Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories. With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers. Douglas is established in more than 100 cities in the Netherlands. For addresses see: www.douglas.nl
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TIME FOR A CHANGE ‘Nobody really needs a clock’: so says Lef Amsterdam, which has been producing some of the most inspiring since 2011. This unique philosophy has led the team to design clocks that do more than just count the seconds, minutes and hours. For the tube clock, created in collaboration with Dutch designer Piet Hein Eek, Lef Amsterdam took a tube and an extrusion ring and created something simple yet beautiful. The range comprises a clock and a speaker, available
JEAN GENIUS
highlighting a diferent aspect of the brand every few weeks, so you can learn something new every time you visit. The store also has a cofee bar, where you can sip an espresso while your favourite jeans are repaired. fm Denham, Prinsengracht 531, 1016 HR Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 303 2825, denhamthejeanmaker.com * for map go to page 84
PHOTO: PHILIP JINTES
Fans of Dutch denim brand Denham should make a bee-line for the Denham Cofee and Concept Store in Amsterdam’s De Negen Straatjes (‘the nine streets’) area, which opened last year. The store ofers a revolving presentation of special stories from the collection,
in copper, rose gold and gunmetal colours, which can also be inserted into a sleek wooden box, ofering a diferent but equally elegant ornamental piece that just happens to tell the time. th Metz, Nieuwe Binnenweg 170, 3015 BH Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 436 4566, lefamsterdam.com
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
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HOME OF DESIGN The story of Store Without a Home began in an Amsterdam suburb circa 2010 – in a large, unheated barn to be precise. Since then, the company has moved to various temporary locations before fnally fnding its permanent base in the city centre. globalblue.com
Selling distinctive products for the home by little-known Dutch and international brands, the store is a curated haven for design lovers. Best of all, if you happen to fall for something too big for your suitcase, your purchases can be shipped anywhere in the world for you. th Store Without a Home, Haarlemmerdijk 26, 1013 JD Amsterdam, storewithoutahome.nl
The Netherlands’ womenswear designers have embraced a wearable aesthetic, ofering ease without losing edge, and attracting international attention in the process, as Kate Moore discovers
EFFORTLESS COOL
PHOTO: © 2014 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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C
onceptual, innovative and open-minded yet pragmatic are all words that have been used to describe the Dutch fashion industry. These laudable traits have meant that, since the mid 1990s, the country’s ready-towear labels have started to attract increasing international attention, with brands such as SuperTrash, Scotch & Soda, Claudia Sträter and Viktor & Rolf leading the charge. Home to two of the world’s most accomplished fashion academies, in Eindhoven and Arnhem, and a varied programme of events including Amsterdam International Fashion Week, the Arnhem Mode Biennale and the Dutch Fashion Awards, Holland is rapidly becoming one of Europe’s leading womenswear destinations. Occupying the space between high-street and luxury labels, SuperTrash is one of the leading brands to have emerged from the Netherlands in recent years. Its contemporary collections feature everything from luxe knitwear and statement stilettos to printed dresses and denim staples. ‘In the digital era fashion is accessible to everyone, but that doesn’t mean it’s afordable for everyone,’ explains Olcay Gulsen, the brand’s owner. ‘I hope that SuperTrash bridges the gap and makes fashion a reality for more women.’ The label, which recently celebrated its 10th anniversary, regularly shows at Amsterdam Fashion Week and is stocked in more than 2,000 boutiques worldwide as well as having its own monobrand
stores. For spring/summer 2015, the collection sees ‘street fashion and urban chic united under one roof – it’s a place where everyone’s invited and anything goes’, says Gulsen. Silhouettes are playful yet glamorous and pieces range from draped dresses and deconstructed utility jackets to feminine peplum skirts with sporty details. A fringed leather skirt – the Stella – is a standout item. ‘Dress it down with a knitted sweater or opt for high heels and a metallic top for the evening,’ Gulsen suggests. The mix of statement pieces and wearable basics ofered by SuperTrash refects the Dutch sense of style. ‘I think Dutch women are very practical when it comes to dressing,’ says Gulsen. ‘That doesn’t mean we love com-
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Previous: MLY spring/summer 2015 catwalk show, Amsterdam Fashion Week
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fort over style; we just know how to combine the two into one stylish look.’ Emily Hermans, the designer behind emerging womenswear label MLY agrees, describing Dutch fashion as ‘wearable, with innovation in techniques and a unique focus and concept’. MLY collections stand out thanks to their distinctive fabrics, many developed by Hermans herself, featuring ecocertifed yarns and natural, biodegradable fbres: the designer is known for her artisanal approach. The result is a range of pieces that tend to be united by their strong, bold prints. ‘The typical MLY fan is a colourful person who likes to be noticed,’ Hermans concedes. ‘She likes graphic designs and recognises quality.’
The designer became interested in developing her own materials while studying at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute (AMFI). ‘The lesson was called textile styling and we had to create our own textiles from scratch,’ she explains. ‘Knitting became my passion.’ For her spring/summer 2015 collection, the designer has been in a refective mood, taking themes, designs, colours and silhouettes from her previous collections to create a kaleidoscopic fashion collage. The end result is a multifaceted collection, simultaneously ofering elegance and streetwear accents, sturdy silhouettes with delicate detailing, colourful graphic patterns and more organic designs. Despite this diversity, the overall MLY aesthetic is typically
Above: SuperTrash spring/summer 2015 campaign featuring the Stella skirt
PHOTO: © 2014 TEAM PETER STIGTER
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Dutch: efortlessly wearable with just enough added edge to make it interesting. Adding to the brand’s local credentials, its collections are almost entirely produced in the Netherlands. ‘The major part of the production process takes place here,’ Hermans confrms. ‘We’re environmentally friendly and have a strong focus on keeping knowledge and factories close.’ With its almost entirely Dutch team, Claudia Sträter has become one of the country’s more recognisable womenswear labels. The brand is adept at translating international trends for a Dutch audience, while its universally high quality and eye for functionality typically attracts women with busy, active lives. Its designs have a timeless sensibility, with clean cuts and elegant lines throughout:
think easily co-ordinated separates, printed daytime dresses and relaxed tailoring in an appealing palette of colours. This focus on wearability and versatility without sacrifcing style may explain why Dutch fashion brands continue to be embraced both across Europe and further afeld. From the chic separates of Claudia Sträter to the luxe basics of SuperTrash, Dutch designers offer pieces that could take pride of place in any wardrobe. And as the baton is passed to the next generation of designers – who are committed to honouring this aesthetic while testing its limits – the Dutch international invasion looks set to continue supertrash.com, mly.nl, claudiastrater.com
Above (from lef): MLY; Claudia Sträter, both spring/summer 2015
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The last remaining Delftware manufacturer from the 17th century. Take a journey through the world of Delft Blue and enjoy the unique shopping experience in our showroom with complete authentic and modern collection. info@royaldelft.com | +31 (0)15 251 2030
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PHOTO: XXXXXXX
Rem D Koolhaas’s footwear brand United Nude continues to push boundaries in design and manufacture.
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Above: United Nude store, Amsterdam
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The designer talks to Verity Hogan about the company’s past, present and future, from specialedition collaborations to 3D printing
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nited Nude’s fairy-tale success story is one born from romantic disappointment. Rem D Koolhaas, the footwear company’s creative director and co-founder, was studying architecture when he broke his heart over a girl, leading him to ‘scale down architecture to its smallest and most vulnerable size, that of a woman’s foot’. The story has a happy ending; Koolhaas’s initial designs were praised by Miuccia Prada and Sergio Rossi before he met Galahad Clark, a seventhgeneration shoemaker and member of the Clarks dynasty, and launched United Nude in 2003. Since then, the brand has become known for producing some of the world’s most technically advanced footwear, with designs that are instantly recognisable thanks to their clarity, elegance and innovation. Koolhaas (not to be confused with his architect uncle Rem Koolhaas) studied architecture at TU Delft (Technical University of Delft), and this training is evident in his sculptural shoes. ‘For each design I always start from a very clear and basic concept that is either a play on space or on gravity, which can be defned as an architectural approach,’ he concedes.
United Nude’s designs have always pushed boundaries in the footwear feld, even from the brand’s inception. ‘Back then, shoes in general were rather boring, so we saw a good opportunity for presenting diferent shoes with a new story,’ Koolhaas explains. Happily, the past 15 years have seen the industry start to take more risks, a development Koolhaas welcomes. ‘I think that the sharing of information through the Internet has led to this massive cross fertilisation in all creative felds, including shoes,’ he confrms. ‘We were one of the front runners in breaking the box, and I think we still are.’ A number of high-profle collaborations have helped United Nude stay ahead of the crowd. Koolhaas has worked with Dutch designer Iris van Herpen on nine consecutive Haute Couture catwalk shows, created a bespoke design for Lady Gaga’s Fame perfume launch (with 12-inch heels),
Above (from top): Rem D Koolhaas, creative director of United Nude; Nova shoe, the brand’s collaboration with Zaha Hadid
175 YEARS
of CRAFTSMANSHIP
Visit Coster Diamonds and see how diamond cutters turn a raw diamond into a beautiful piece of jewelry. Paulus Potterstraat 2-6 | 1071 CZ Amsterdam | The Netherlands Tel. +31 (0) 20 305 55 55 | www.costerdiamonds.com Opening hours: 09.00 a.m. till 17.00 p.m. 7 days a week
54 | F E AT U R E S
For Koolhaas, innovation will always go far beyond new colours and materials
and teamed up with architect Zaha Hadid to create the distinctive Nova shoe. ‘We work with people who bring new things to the table,’ says Koolhaas. ‘People who are different enough from us while being compatible enough to gain strength by joining forces, people with great talent, and people we inspire and who inspire us.’ For spring/summer 2015, the brand is continuing to innovate and has launched several new concepts, including the abstracted Lo Res range. The Lo Res Earth sandal looks set to be one of the shoes of the season; a unisex design, the shoe features an ergonomically shaped footbed, which conforms to the wearer’s foot, while its
rounded toe and cleated rubber outsole lend a sport-luxe feel. Successes from previous seasons have also been reimagined for spring: note the Jacky boot with its bold geometric heel now available in new materials and colours. For Koolhaas, innovation will always go far beyond new colours and materials. The designer is known for pioneering new manufacturing techniques and his championing of 3D printing is a prime example. Even so, he believes it will be some time before printed pumps become the norm. ‘In the near future 3D printing will probably only function as a more exclusive and niche production method for small quantities, say
Above (clockwise from top lef): Lo Res Earth sandal; Jacky boot, both spring/summer 2015; the brand is championing 3D printing
56 | F E AT U R E S
for a catwalk show or limited-edition design.’ United Nude’s next 3D-printing project will be produced alongside the industry’s market leader, 3D Systems, and will see fve famous architects and designers create shoes to be shown at Salone del Mobile in Milan. A line of watches and the Lo Res car are the two upcoming initiatives that Koolhaas is most excited about at the moment. The designer is also looking to introduce a new shop concept. United
Nude stores typically feature dark décor with light installations providing movement, atmosphere and a spotlight for the shoes; in future, he hopes to create something a little less extreme and a little more practical to refect a wider product ofering. Despite these difusions, the Möbius shoe remains the design for which United Nude is known and its frst success. It marked a new era in footwear manufacture and was the frst to blur borders between industrial design and fashion. Its use of a single strip to form the sole, heel, foot bed and upper led to the invention of new construction methods and new materials. It remains Koolhaas’s favourite. ‘It’s perhaps my most iconic design, but, besides that, it is also the shoe that made me change my profession, started my career, made me change where I lived. In other words, this was not just a shoe that I made – it was also the shoe that made me.’ unitednude.com
Above (from top): MÖbius shoe; the brand’s collaboration with Iris van Herpen for Lady Gaga’s Fame perfume launch
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58 | E X P E R I E N C E
TABLE TALK From converted greenhouses to cooking studios, the fne-dining experience in Holland is nothing short of innovative. Theresa Harold discovers that eating can be a treat for all the senses
The Dutch Golden Age of the 17th century had an impact on every part of life in Holland, including what people ate. Trading ships brought back spices, sugar and other exotic ingredients, and the country’s prosperous citizens developed a taste for lavish and richly varied meals – as shown in many of the fabulous still life paintings globalblue.com
of the time. That willingness to experiment, to embrace new trends and to take a fresh look at familiar dishes is still in evidence today. Nowadays, the most exciting chefs and restaurants are pioneering creative uses of local ingredients with an international infuence, often in an equally inspired setting.
PHOTO: RENÉE FRINKING FOTOGRAFIE
S H O P | 59
JOHANNES This elegant gem in the smartest part of Amsterdam is a culinary treat for visiting foodies thanks to chef Tommy den Hartog’s passion and creativity. Using the highest quality products – most of which have been sourced lo-
cally – den Hartog creates beautiful dishes that never fail to impress, such as smoked eel with beetroot sorbet, roast beetroot, apple and foie gras. Johannes, Herengracht 413, 1017 BP Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 626 9503, restaurantjohannes.nl
PHOTO: HOTZE EISMA
60 | E X P E R I E N C E
DE K AS In 2001, well-regarded chef Gert Jan Hageman stumbled upon an old greenhouse belonging to Amsterdam’s municipal nursery, which was scheduled for demolition. Thanks to help from family and friends, Hageman was able to convert the stunning eightmetre-high glass building, which globalblue.com
dates from 1926, into a thriving restaurant and nursery. Using herbs and vegetables grown in the greenhouse and on the restaurant’s farmland, the chef creates a fxed menu based on the daily harvest. De Kas, Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3, 1097 DE Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 462 4562, restaurantdekas.nl
S H O P | 61
DE CULINAIRE W E R K P L A AT S De Culinaire Werkplaats is a workshop, cooking studio and gallery that ofers unique adventures in gastronomy. The menu uses inspirational concepts to explore new tastes, textures and creative ways of eating and
FRED Fred Mustert is the head chef of Michelin-starred Rotterdam restaurant Fred. Sticking to the ‘less is more’ philosophy that has proved so successful for Mustert, Fred is an elegant dining space with a menu of creative French dishes. Everything, from the wine list to the garnishes, has been
drinking. For example, themes could be as vague as ‘honesty’ or as specifc as ‘fowers’. Keep an eye on the website for hints regarding its upcoming fve-course ‘eat’inspirations’. De Culinaire Werkplaats, Fannius Scholtenstraat 10, 1051 EX Amsterdam, +31 (0)65 464 6576, deculinairewerkplaats.nl
carefully considered and the result is a pleasing, unifed experience. Declaring that he is ‘not a commercial cook’, Mustert happily invests in expensive ingredients in order to exceed his guests’ expectations. Fred, Honingerdijk 263-265, 3063 AM Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 212 0110, restaurantfred.nl
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64 | E X P E R I E N C E
PERFECT DAY: ROTTERDAM A dynamic city with an ever-changing skyline and a fearless approach to reinvention, Rotterdam is an ideal day-trip destination. This famous port town ofers a wealth of shops, cultural attractions, festivals, restaurants and parks. SHOP spends a day exploring Rotterdam’s chic’s concept stores and tucking into the city’s best burgers.
PHOTO: ARCO ARDEN CC BY 2.0
Ter Marsch & Co A former butcher’s shop is now one of the city’s bestloved eateries. Appropriately, its signature dishes are meat based, whether it’s the juicy rib-eye steaks from the inhouse dry-ageing cabinet or Ter Marsch’s award-winning Grande burger. Vege-
Described as an ‘icon of Dutch modernism’, and a recent addition to the Unesco World Heritage list, the Van Nelle factory used to be known for its cofee, tea and tobacco production, but is now admired as an architectural masterpiece. Built in the 1920s, the Van Nelle building was years ahead of its time thanks to its clever use of space, light and air, and the materials featured.
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PHOTO: ANNEBEL EPPINGA
Van Nelle Fabriek
tarians are not left out: meatfree dishes include the Dutch salad, which combines goats’ cheese, beetroot and asparagus with parmesan and a poached egg.
S H O P | 65
Delfshaven
PHOTO (TOP): VINCENT VAN DER PAS/ARCHETYPEFOTOGRAFIE.NL CC BY-NC 2.0
PHOTO: BLUEBOOST
For a glimpse of Rotterdam as it was more than a century ago, visit the picturesque neighbourhood of Delfshaven. Wander its scenic streets, stopping of at De Pelgrim, Rotterdam’s only city brewery, and De Delft, a painstaking reconstruction of an 18th-century warship.
Groos
DIRECTORY
Vying for the title of Rotterdam’s most stylish concept store, Groos brings together a chic edit of fashion, music, art and lifestyle products. Named after an old Dutch word meaning ‘pride’, the store is so called because it sells only local products and proudly showcases the work of the city’s most talented creatives. Expect an original and tempting array of men’s and women’s clothing, alongside accessories, food and homeware.
Van Nelle Fabriek, Van Nelleweg 1, 3044 BC Rotterdam, vannellefabriek.com
globalblue.com
Ter Marsch & Co, Witte de Withstraat 70, 3012 BS Rotterdam, termarschco.nl Groos, Schiekade 203, 3013 BR Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 414 5816, groosrotterdam.nl
66 | E X P E R I E N C E
PERFECT DAY: THE HAGUE The Hague combines all the amenities of an international metropolis with the charm of a seaside resort town. Home to the Dutch government and the royal family, the city ofers an array of attractions, ranging from prestigious art galleries to charming cafés. SHOP spends a day exploring a selection of The Hague’s must-see sights. Bloem Family-run Bloem is one of The Hague’s most charming cafés. Prettily decorated with antique foral paintings, it’s the place to go for perfectly made Italian cofee and showstopping cakes. Drop by for a freshly made light lunch, or treat yourself to a generous slice of the lemon meringue pie at teatime.
Gemeentemuseum Designed by Dutch architect HP Berlage in the 1930s, the Gemeentemuseum is home to the world’s largest Mondrian collection and is a must for any art lover. Exhibitions scheduled for this summer include Beautiful Holland, which features paintings by the Hague School that capture the country’s beautiful yet changing landscapes.
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S H O P | 67
HanTing Cuisine At his Michelin-starred restaurant, chef Han Ji produces sumptuous fne-dining food that’s also good for you. Inspired by traditional Chinese medicine and mindful eating, the Chinese Herbs menu is designed to be perfectly balanced in taste, presentation, texture, smell and its effect on the body. With dishes including scallop and langoustine with kumquat and soy, and lamb with garlic, Chinese seaweed and daikon, you can be sure that it’s also utterly delicious.
DIRECTORY Bloem, Korte Houtstraat 6, 2511 CD The Hague, +31 (0)70 737 0589, bloemdenhaag.nl Gemeentemuseum, Stadhouderslaan 41, 2517 HV The Hague, +31 (0)70 338 1111, gemeentemuseum.nl HanTing Cuisine, Prinsestraat 33, 2513 CA The Hague, +31 (0)70 362 0828, hantingcuisine.nl Common Kin, Papestraat 22, 2513 AW The Hague, +31 (0)70 767 0092, commonkin.com
Common Kin Stocking everything from cool Scandi designers to fashionable streetwear brands, Common Kin is known for its artfully curated menswear collections. The store, with its minimalist white interior featuring quirky cardboard shelving, has become a magnet for style-conscious locals looking for anything from an Alexander Wang T-shirt to sunglasses from Sun Bunnies.
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G U I D E | 69
GUIDE
PHOTO: KIRSTY ANDREWS
PHOTO: EMILIO BRIZZI
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Holland with a look at the country’s must-visit destinations, from the best cafés to the coolest boutiques. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/holland.
A GLIMPSE OF AMSTERDAM Above: Amsterdam’s many canals are a defning feature of the city
70 | G U I D E
SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY
PHOTOS: KIRSTY ANDREWS; GRACE BIRD; DIONNE HÉLÈNE
‘Amsterdam offers a combination of historic charm with avant-garde artistic flair, and a visit is always inspiring’ – Kirsty Andrews, SHOP’s picture editor
globalblue.com
S H O P | 71
Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopcontent. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!
72 | G U I D E
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MOMO
PHOTO: DAN PEREZ/DANP.CO.IL
Momo is one of Amsterdam’s foremost culinary hotspots, known and loved for its Asian fusion dishes, glamorous setting and excellent cocktails. Now, Momo’s owner Yossi Eliyahoo and executive chef Hariprasad Shetty have launched the Momo Lifestyle Book, the ultimate cofee-table book and collector’s item, which is available to buy at the restaurant. Featuring photography by Dan
Perez, the book includes plenty of pictures of Momo’s mouthwatering signature dishes and chic interior, alongside interviews with the people who work behind the scenes and insights into the success of one of the city’s best known gastronomic destinations. Momo, Hobbemastraat 1, 1071 XZ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 671 7474, momo-amsterdam.com * for map go to page 86
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E. N. R. G ● SO UV EN M AN DA IR S ● RI JN ● M OU TF ITAN GO ● TE RS ● JA N NS EN ● SH ARJA SH OPP GE AR ● HA RR Y RO KI N ● TR SO UV ENOM P ● BE LC OM IR S ● PA NY ● CAVE ROKP N ● DU TC H FO OD GIKI N ● DO UG LAFT ● J.M . SC HM ID T OP TI EKS ● TH E AM ●
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PHOTO: IVO DE BRUIJN
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BAR ITALIA
dishes from the restaurant menu, including pizza, mushroom risotto and tagliatelle with lamb ragu. There’s also a great selection of classic cocktails and DJ sets several nights a week. Bar Italia, Rokin 81-83, 1012 KL Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 620 2442, bar-italia.nl * for map go to page 80
Housed within an historic building, Bar Italia is part restaurant, part café, part espresso bar, which all helps to make it as popular in the daytime as it is after dark. Enjoy light bites such as smashed avocado on toast, pancakes and burgers in the café, or opt for authentic Italian
Heiligeweg
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Café
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80 | G U I D E
T EEG
● BERSHKA ● DOUGLAS
SOUVENIRS ● CLARKS ● FRONT RUNNER ●
HI AMSTERDAM ● PEPE JEANS ● SABON ●
● RITUALS
P.82 Bar Italia
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Café Luna
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● SWAROVSKI THE PHONE HOUSE ● ● MORGAN O'NEILL ● SCORE ● ● DOLCIS FLOMAR ● ● SIEBEL ESPRIT ●
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LUSH ● FOOTLOCKER ● ECCO ● PERRY SPORT COSTES ● ● + OUTDOOR H&M ● ● STORE FOR BRANDS LEDER PALEIS ● ● KIDS FOOT LOCKER VAN HAREN ● CHEESE AND MORE CROCS ● ● BY HENRI WILLIG DESIGUAL ● ● STEPS DRESSES FOOT LOCKER ● ● TAFT SHOES
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● KODAK
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PER N E AM I ● C T U IN SPU ● E S NE ●D O TO ● R S S P D R 1 , ● PN TE LAN WA LY S S A K ● IM B E R R S A ● OP E TB ● T K E C H DY S H S O L A● ● S HE BO V IL ● T A HOES NDS S H ● R C O S A KE R ● ● S O O T S R D IA M EA SN ÖLLE ● ● B EUTE EM NS R A ’S NK VA D ● I D ● U O H L EV ● L ERO M ON E N F IE O ● MA ANG ● V O DA F M . BY r n e r ● ● V V IT O E L L A ÄT E R I R o R H .E IN K C N ● IN D E IA S T e MO RE ● ffe ● C L AU D r Co STO T ● ●C RY S P O R ● eye D m R t P E K T IE E R G IE Ou M SU A EN DA ● Y/ TER EP IX T MS EST SS EA L & X S ID IK M IS S N R IS ● PEN R ● I PA LY P IP P E ● M IT ● IC S IX ● TS RT SCH AR BA LUB ER ●B R C S S IL ● KK E BA TH FO S● A ● E E C EL P IE & M ● ● TH H MM LD CA ●S N F IE E OX ● ● MA G TY ● U A &D OY ● BE YB N ●V MA H E S IS S T O R E H R L IS E LV E NG STO R KA ● H WE ● NE BOOK AT C ● S W O D AY R ● T E ● C AN EN XY E R IC S P R O N O S ● T AM RKS & SING XE ELF EL MA L D IE N C E YA RO XP ER ●E
KIN
KA
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RS
TR
T AA
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Café
Restaurant
Featured In This Issue
Open 7 days a week Behind the royal palace
www.magnaplaza.nl magna plaza amsterdam
82 | G U I D E
RITUALS Dutch cosmetics brand Rituals produces luxurious beauty and home products designed to make everyday moments more special. Inspired by ancient Eastern traditions, Rituals’ ranges have delighted beauty enthusiasts the world over, and more than 350 international stores have opened since the Amsterdam fagship was founded in 2000. New for spring/summer, the Tao collection focuses on perfecting the balance of yin and yang, with massage oils, body scrubs, bath foams, fragrance sticks and more. Featuring calming white lotus, refreshing Chinese mint
and soothing yi yi ren, the products are designed to induce peace and tranquility. Rituals, Kalverstraat 73, 1012 NZ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 344 9220, rituals.com * for map go to page 80
Kalverstraat North DA M Peek & Cloppenburg ● TRÉSOR
PIMKIE ● COOL CAT ● SACHA ● RIVER ISLAND ●
● FRONT RUNNER ● BJÖRN BORG ● POP CULT ● FOREVER 21 ● PULL & BEAR ● PIECES ● MANFIELD
CHASIN’ ●
● VILA
BAZAR ●
● URBAN OUTFITTERS
SABON ●
● MANGO ● JAMIN
SCORE ●
● BLOKKER
CLAIRE’S ●
● PRO 02 0
R A AT
TOPSHOP ●
● MCDONALDS
● SIDESTEP FOOTWEAR
DIDI ●
Global Blue Retailer Department Store
K A LV
ZARA ●
● CITY DIAMONDS ● SUPERSTAR RALPH LAUREN ● DENIM & SUPPLY ● SIX ● BIJOU BRIGITTE
ER ST
GEOX ● STEPS ●
DA M
Non-Global Blue Retailer
NES
DESIGUAL ● DE TUINEN ● STEVE MADDEN ●
ROKIN
THE STING ●
K A LV E R S T R A AT
T AA N IE U W E Z IJ D S V O O R B U R G WA L
PA
IS LE
R ST
Wooden Shoes, how are they made?
Find out at the Wooden Shoe Workshop Wooden shoes have been worn in Holland for more than a 1000 years and not only are they still being worn today, but over a million pairs are still made and sold each year. A unique collection of clogs is on display in our Clog Museum, giving additional insight into the historical tradition of this fascinating footwear. Visit our Workshop for a demonstration, try some on, take photo’s and browse around. What a great way to experience historic Holland!
Wooden Shoe Workshop ’De Zaanse Schans’ www.clogs.nl • info@clogs.nl FREE ENTRANCE
• FREE DEMONSTRATION • FREE MUSEUM
Transport from Amsterdam By train: From Amsterdam Central Station take the train to Uitgeest as far as Koog-Zaandijk Station and follow the signs to the Zaanse Schans. It will take approximately 10 minutes to walk from the station to the Zaanse Schans. By car: From Amsterdam ring road A10 in the direction of Zaanstad. Exit A8 direction Zaandam and then A7, direction Purmerend. Take the frst exit and follow the signs to the Zaanse Schans. By bus: There is a bus service (bus 391) from Amsterdam (located in front of Amsterdam Central Station) direct to the Zaanse Schans.
Purmerend Zaanse Schans
Zaandam Haarlem
Discover Holland, visit windmill village the Zaanse Schans
Amsterdam Schiphol
84 | G U I D E
The Nine Streets/De Negen Straatjes
OF POEMS ● WAXWELL RECORDS ●
SI N G EL WAXW ELL RECORD ● HOUSE
DISTRICT 9 ●
PROJECT AMS ● ANTONIA BY YVETTE ●
H EREN GRACHT SUMMUM ● SIR MAX ● TIKAL ● FLIP*FLOP ● RABEANCo ● KARL LAGERFELD ● THE GAMEKEEPER ● CARHARTT ● DANIELE ALESSANDRINI ● MC LENNAN'S PURE SILK ● LOCKSTOCK & BARREL ● BLGK EDELSMEDEN ● VAREKAMP ● DE MAAGD & DE LEEUWE ● MIAUW ●
KEIZERSGRACHT GALERIE GALUK ● DANIELE ALESSANDRINI ● WTG ●
ANNLIZ ● SUPER ● JUFFROUW JANSEN ●
Bussia
MISS JONES ●
Bar 22
SECOND BEST ●
BRIX ●
SCOTCH SHRUNK ●
BENDORFF ●
LEE ●
FILIPPA K ●
Café Wheels
LOMOGRAPHY ●
LITERATUR VAN VER EVANAAR ● MARGARETH M. ● CAR2GO ● ACNE ● P.S. AKA DEPOT DELUXE ● MAISON RIKA ●
HERENGRACHT
● SINGEL OPTIEK ● SAS DESIGN ● MAUVE ● NIC NIC ● NATIONAL BRILLEN MUSUEM ● TKLYLTJE ● MECHICAS ● KALPA/DE BOER ● BY FABRIO
KEIZERSGRACHT
● PARWAN ● HESTER VAN EEGHAN ● ML COLLECTIONS ● FAB ● RABEANCO ● MARC O’POLO ● M-E-K ● EXOTA ● TIMBERLAND ● KAGETSU ● KLEIKOLLEKTIEF ● COS ● FRED PERRY ● DR WONEN ● PURNA ● SUSPENDERS ● BLOSHAAR ● HESTER VAN EEGHAN ● PINA
Restaurant Struisvogel
REBEL CHIC ● PARISIENNE ●
Coffee Company
THAI FUSION ●
Restaurant Zurantje
FASHION FLAIRS ●
Pancakes!
KOOKAI ● BOEKIE WOEKIE ● MARLIES DEKKERS ● DE 9 HEREN ● POP-UP STORE! ● PRETTY RINGS ● TOOS & B ROOS ●
PR INSENGR ACHT
● DE WELDAAD ● AMSTERDAM WATCH COMPANY ● FIFTIES SIXTIES
Tin Pan Alley
Koffeehuis De Hoek
● MK JEWELLERY ● NOOCH ● CHUCK PALU HOME ● RED WING SHOES ● GALERIE LUGHIEN ● HARTENKAAS ● TERRA ● NOA LIFESTYLE ● TABAK
● KUNST HAAR ● ROECKL ● SMAAK ● GLAS-IN-LOOD
Café Nielsen
● EPISODE ● DE PINGUIN ● STOUT ● MENDO ● SCOTCH & SODA
P.42
GERDA’S ● FLOOR STUDIOS ● MY 7 WAYS ● LES GALERIES NEUF ● DENHAM ● BY FABRIO ● ROBIN & RIK LEERMAKERS ● DENHAM CORNER ●
Café De Doffer
LOCAL SERVICE (MEN’S) ● MOKU ● THE DARLING ● MENSOCKS ● MOSCOW ● VELOUR ●
KEIZERSGRACHT
● KALDI WE ARE LABELS ● ● BJÖRN BORG CARLA PALERMO ● ● LE SOUK BEADIES AMSTERDAM ● ● LAURA DOLS SAM FRIDAY ● ● KO Pompadour Café ● VITTORIO MARCHESI VELOUR ● ● GALERIE DE SALON GOODS ● ● CLOSED BY FABRIO ● ● REPLAY DJOEKE WESSING ● ● CHASIN’ SPIEGEL BEEJD ● ● COLLECTIVE SPACE JOZ ● ● SPOILED IL VAGABONDO ● ● SAPORO TONY COHEN ● LOULOU ● SUPERTRASH ● MARIE-STELLA-MA RIS ●
HERENGRACHT
SING EL ● PORTONOVO ● L'ETOILE DE SAINT HONORE ● SHOEDICTION ● ROERNDE ZAKEN RARITEITEN EMAILLE.NL ● RAYMOND ● KOAN FLOAT TECHNOLOGIES GERRITZEN ● ● RIKA NOA LIFESTYLE ● ● SIMONE
Bar Outbijit
● HAR BARBAAR
WIJDE HEISTEEG
HERENGRACHT
PR INSENGRACH T
● LOCAL SERVICE (WOMEN’S) ● WOK & ZO ● HAMKO ● DE WITTE TRANDENWINKEL ● DA KAASKAMER ● VANILIA ● SKINS COSMETICS ● LUST ● TOMS ● DENHAM BAR ● DENHAM ● VANS ● DE WIJN WINKEL ● BAKKERY PAUL ANÉE ● MINT MINI MAN ● BEAUREGARD ● FANOUS
KEIZERSGRACHT
● VAN RAVENSTEIN
Café Des Pels
● SCOTCH & SODA ● ZIPPER ● GOODIES ● RUM ● LIEBESKIND BERLIN ● GEM KINGDOM ● RAIN ● RELAXED AT HOME ● JOLENE JOLINK ● JOJO
● LEF ● HOOFF HOOFF ● ITALIAN GLAMOUR ● ROZA ● LOULOU
HUIDENSTRAAT
RUNSTRAAT
OUDE SPIEGELSTRAAT WOLVENSTRAAT BERENSTRAAT
GASTHUISMOLENSTEEG HARTENSTRAAT
REESTRAAT
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S H O P | 85
Van Baerlestraat VONDELPARKBRUG
Vondelpark
V O S S I U S S T R A AT
R A AT
RIVIERA MAISON ● BENETTON ● INGLOT ● PANARA ● HÄSTENS ● PIASTRELLE ●
LAUNDRY INDUSTRY ● AMERICAN VINTAGE ●
VA N B A ERL ESTR A AT
VO S SI U S S T
ZANDPAD
● TONI & GUY ● THE PHONE HOUSE ● KPN ● SISSY BOY ● AZZURRO
PIETER CORNELISZ HOOFTSTRAAT ● MASSIMO DUTTI
SOCIETY SHOP ● LUBA ●
● PETIT BATEAU ● MAESTRO DUE
OOGAPPEL ●
VA N EEGH EN L A A N
● SIMON MEIJSSEN
SANDWICH ●
FRED DE LA BRETONIERE ●
VAN EEGHENSTRAAT
PEARLE OPTICIENS ●
● ZARA HOME
JA N LUIJKENSTRAAT
PURDEY ●
Bagels & Beans
THE PEOPLE OF THE LABYRINTHS ●
Conservatorium Hotel
VAN DE VEL D ESTR A AT
HARBOUR TAILORS ●
VAN BAERLESTRAAT
VANILIA ●
ACE & DIK JUWELIERS ● PAUW ● ● SUITSUPPLY
LINHARD ●
PAU LU S P OTT ER ST R A AT
WILLEMSPAR KWEG
● SUITSUPPLY
Small Talk Coffee Corner
THE STEDELIJK MUSEUM
KORT SHOES ● ARKE ● ABN AMRO● GAASTRA ● PAUW ●
VAN BREESTRAAT
VILLEROY & BOCH ●
VAN BAERLESTRAAT
PAUL NOYEN ●
PAUW ●
TWENTY ONE BY MCGREGOR ●
BOEKHANDEL ROBERT PREMSELA ● GANT WOMAN ● NEW FYSIC ● DAVIDOFF OF GENEVA● GANT MAN ● PAUW MANNEN ● BROEKMANS & VAN POPPEL ●
Brasserie Keyzer JAN WILLEM BROUWERSSTRAAT HET CONCERTGEBOUW ●
Hotel
Place Of Interest
SELECTED STORES IN CONSERVATORIUM HOTEL: BONEBAKKER CULTI HARTMAN EN HARTMAN LA CASA DEL HABANO SKINS COSMETICS
Museumplein
J
86 | G U I D E
● G-STAR RAW
● BUHJAH
Momo
● PC BAGS ROMEO ● VETRO
● QUESTO
P.74
PC Hooftstraat
RIJKSMUSEUM
PROFUOMO ● KAAKS SOUVENIRS ●
HOBBEMAS TR AAT ● TESLA CARS ● SUPERTRASH ● SOUVENIRS33.COM
GIMMICKS ● AGENT PROVOCATEUR ●
● TRU TRUSSARDI
COSTER DIAMONDS ●
● STONE ISLAND
SCHAAP & CITROEN ●
● EMPORIO ARMANI SCHAAP + CITROEN ●
● ESCADA
LACOSTE ●
● MEYER
TASCHEN ●
● COSMIC COWBOYS ● IWC / SCHAAP + CITROEN
BURBERRY ●
● CHOPARD
7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● IKKS MEN & WOMAN ● GUCCI ● CANALI ● JIMMY CHOO ● BALLY ● CHANEL ● CORNELIANI ● TOURBILLON ● TOD'S ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● SHOEBALOO ● GUESS BY MARCIANO ● GASSAN BOUTIQUE ●
● LA PERLA ● MONTBLANC
● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● PRADA
P.39 HONTHORSTSTRAAT HOUSE OF BOLS ●
● LOUIS VUITTON ● LONGCHAMP
JAN LUIJKENSTRAAT
● KAREN MILLEN ● BULGARI
P.40
● OGER ● WOLFORD ● PHILIPP PLEIN ● ● ● ● ●
Café PC
RALPH LAUREN OGER DONNA CAROLINE BISS HERMÈS BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
VAN GOGH MUSEUM
VAN DE VELDESTRAAT
● TOMMY HILFIGER
PAU LU S P OT T ER ST R AAT
PC HOOFTSTRAAT
● DOUGLAS ● MICHAEL KORS ● MARINA RINALDI ● HACKETT LONDON ● DIESEL BLACK GOLD ● VALENTINO ● ICI PARIS XL ● HILFIGER DENIM
JANLUIJKENSTRAAT
VO S SIU S S T R A AT
TIFFANY & CO. ● MONCLER ● ANNE FONTAINE ● AGENT PROVACATEUR ● DIOR ● JAEGER-LECOULTRE ● THE KOOPLES ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● LORENZO FUENTE ● AB DONKERS ● MAX MARA ● CHURCH’S ● MCGREGOR ● LIFESTYLE ● HUGO BOSS ● AZZURRO KIDS ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● MARC CAIN ● NESPRESSO ● CLAUDIA STRÄTER ● CARTIER ● PAUL SMITH ● AZZURRO DUE ● HUGO BOSS ● ARMANI ● AZZURRO ●
PAU LU S P OT T ER ST R A AT
PC HOOFTSTRAAT
VOSSIUSST RA AT
MULBERRY ●
PA U L U S P OT T ER ST R A AT
KIEHL’S ● HOPMAN ● DENHAM THE JEANMAKER ●
AATKWEG WILLEMSPAR HOBBEMASTR
● FOUR BY AZZURRO ● FILIPPA K ● MASSIMO DUTTI
VAN BAERLESTRAAT
VAN BAERLESTRAAT
Vondelpark
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Featured In This Issue
Place Of Interest
Café
Restaurant
HACKETT.COM
“ T R U ST YO U R TA I L O R A S YO U WO U L D T R U ST YO U R S U R G E O N ” Jeremy’s Rule No.12 for living a better life
PC HOOFTSTRAAT 117 Show this adver t in store to receive a 15% discount
88 | G U I D E
Leidsestraat SINGEL
● ACE & SPYER ● ANTONY MORATO ● COUNTRY STYLE ● SHOEBALOO
GSUS INDUSTRIES ●
● FRONTRUNNER ● OCCHIALI OPTICIENS
SCHELTEMA ●
H E R EN
GR AC H
T
H ER EN
G R AC H
T
● HUGO BOSS ECCO ● CALIDA LEVI’S INVOTIS LUSH PAUW COS JUST BRANDS SOUVENIRS JULIETTE POUR ROMEO IITALIA
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
ABERCROMBIE & FITCH ●
S G R AC
HT
BY FABRIO ●
BOOTS MANFIELD HENRI WILLIG CHEESE & MORE DE TUINEN
● ● ● ●
HARTMAN CIGARS ● RITUALS ● KE RE KS TR
AAT
ACCESSORIZE NOON CORA KEMPERMAN DA SUNGLASS HUT TOURS & TICKETS
PRINSENGR
● ● ● ● ● ●
INVITO ADIDAS SUPERTRASH G-STAR WOMEN KAREN MILLEN SISSY-BOY
● ● ● ● ● ●
PALLADIUM ACE TRENDS DR. ADAMS HUNKEMULLER ONITSUKA TIGER R AC H T SACHA SE R S G
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
MAG BAG CHASIN’ PAUL WARMER BRANDY LOVES MELVILLE AAIKO BIZAR SOUVENIRS PANDORA FILIPPA K TIMBERLAND SOUVENIRS CAMPER
K EI
● BOTTICELLI LIMITED ● NEW ZEALAND AUCKLAND ● PYLONES ● ICI PARIS XL ● SOUVENIRSHOP DE AMSTERDAMMER ● IKKS WOMEN ● RAAK
P R IN SE N GR
AC H T
CYNTHIA ●
Global Blue Retailer
LEIDSESTRAAT
K EISER
DANIELE DENTIA ● BUGABOO ●
● YOUNG DESIGNERS UNITED
● ● ● ● ● ●
● THE BODY SHOP
Non-Global Blue Retailer
AC H T
90 | G U I D E
ROTTERDAM MOLENWATER WEG
SHI
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SCHAAP & CITROEN
EL D
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Happy Sushi SCH
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Grand Hotel Central
L SIN
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The Manhatan Hotel
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Place Of Interest
Tourist Information
Hotel
Restaurant
STB
LAA
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S H O P | 91
THE HAGUE FR ED ER
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92 | G U I D E
DESIGNER OUTLET ROERMOND Designer Outlet Roermond, Stadsweide 2, 6041 TD Roermond, +31 (0)475 351777, designer-outlet-roermond.com, mcarthurglen.com Opening times Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm Saturday-Sunday: 9am-8pm
10am The clothing collections at Daniel Hechter are ideal for those with an active lifestyle.
HOW TO GET THERE By car From Maastricht take the A73 to exit 19 for Roermond. Follow the signs to Roermond and then to the Designer Outlet. From Eindhoven take the Dutch A2 to exit 40 for Roermond. Follow the signs to Roermond (N280) and then to the Designer Outlet.
2pm By train Baldinini enjoys a prestigious reputation for its shoes and leather goods. 5pm Pick up a pair of classic American jeans at True Religion. 7pm Alongside its famed Swiss Army knives, Victorinox ofers a range of cutlery, watches and fragrances.
globalblue.com
Roermond is two hours by direct train from Amsterdam Centraal station, with departures every 30 minutes. Designer Outlet Roermond is 15 minutes walk from Roermond station. When you leave the station, cross Stationsplein and follow the signs to Designer Outlet Roermond. For train times and ticket prices, please visit ns.nl.
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2. Terminal 3 Departure Hall 3 – next to customs and close to passport control Open: 7am-8:30pm
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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 44: Efortless Cool
äилософия Элегантности Кейт Мур рассказывает о голландских модельерах, для которых практичность и непринужденность одежды – не повод забывать об элегантности. Концептуальная, инновационная, непредвзятая и практичная – именно так можно описать голландскую индустрию моды. Начиная с середины 1990-х годов местные бренды прет-а-порте, включая SuperTrash, Scotch & Soda, Claudia Sträter и Viktor & Rolf начали активную экспансию на европейские рынки. Сегодня Нидерланды превращаются в одну из ведущих стран Европы со стремительно развивающейся индустрией моды, что не удивительно – помимо двух международных академий дизайна в Эйндховене и Арнеме, здесь проводится большое число выставок и шоу-показов, таких как Arnhem Mode Biennale и Dutch Fashion Awards. В последние годы на фоне остальных заметно выделяется марка SuperTrash, занимающая промежуточную позицию между общедоступными и люксовыми брендами. Ее стильные коллекции включают практически все: от роскошного трикотажа и элегантных globalblue.com
туфель на высоком каблуке до платьев с принтами и джинсовой одежды. «В цифровую эпоху мода доступна каждому, но это не значит, что каждому она по карману, – поясняет Олджай Гюльсен, основательница бренда. – Я надеюсь, что SuperTrash исправляет эту ситуацию и делает моду доступной для большего числа женщин». В тот момент, когда бренду исполнилось 10 лет, его коллекции уже регулярно выставлялись на показах Амстердамской Недели моды, а продукция была представлена в более чем 2000 бутиках по всему миру, включая фирменные магазины марки. Коллекция сезона весна-лето 2015 вобрала в себя элементы уличной моды и городского шика. «Здесь нет ограничений и нет строгих правил», – говорит Гюльсен. Забавные и в то же время элегантные силуэты присущи всем вещам: от драпированных платьев и деконструктивных пиджаков до женственных юбок с баской в спортивном стиле. Особого внимания заслуживает кожаная юбка с бахромой «Stella». «Ее можно комбинировать с вязаным свитером или туфлями на шпильках и блестящим топом на вечер», – советует Гюльсен. Сочетание нарядной и повседневной одежды отсылает нас к голландскому чувству стиля. «Мне кажется нидерландки очень практичны в выборе одежды, – говорит Гюльсен. – Это не значит, что
95 мы предпочитаем комфорт стилю, просто мы знаем, как соединить и то и другое в один стильный образ». Эмили Германс, дизайнер популярного бренда женской одежды MLY, не жалеет эпитетов, описывая голландскую моду: «комфортная, новаторская, уникальная и слегка авангардная». Первое, что бросается в глаза при взгляде на коллекции MLY – это оригинальная ткань, зачастую разработанная самой Германс и состоящая из экологически чистой пряжи и биоразлагаемых волокон – дизайнер известна своей тягой ко всему натуральному. В дизайне одежды Германс делает ставку на яркие оттенки и смелые принты. «Девушка MLY – это яркая личность, которая не хочет оставаться незамеченной, – утверждает дизайнер. – Она любит графические принты и ценит хорошее качество». Желание создавать свою ткань пришло к Германс во время обучения в амстердамском институте моды (AMFI). «У нас был предмет "Дизайн текстиля", на котором нам требовалось создать свою собственную ткань с нуля, – поясняет она. – С того момента вязание стало моей страстью». В коллекции сезона весна-лето 2015 дизайнер решила использовать тематику, палитру и силуэты из своих предыдущих коллекций, чтобы создать дайджест своего творчества. Ее многогранная и контрастная коллекция объединила элементы уличного стиля и элегантной моды, слегка грубоватые силуэты и изящные детали,
красочные графические принты и природные узоры. Несмотря на такое разнообразие коллекциям MLY свойственна типично голландская эстетика: абсолютный комфорт с легкой ноткой интриги. Стоит также отметить, что все коллекции бренда практически полностью создаются на территории Нидерландов. «Основные производственные процессы осуществляются здесь, – подтверждает Германс. – Забота об окружающей среде является для нас одной из приоритетных задач, как и поддержка местной инфраструктуры». Марка Claudia Sträter недавно была признана одним из самых узнаваемых брендов женской одежды в стране. Вряд ли во всей Голландии найдется компания, которой бы удалось с такой же легкостью интерпретировать международные тренды, адаптируя их к местным реалиям, а безупречное качество изделий и акцент на практичности приходится по вкусу деловым женщинам, ведущим активный образ жизни. Коллекциям бренда свойственна непреходящая чувственность, утонченный крой и элегантные линии: легко сочетающиеся комбинации, платья с принтами, а также непринужденные костюмы приятных оттенков. Акцент на практичности и универсальности без ущерба эстетике может объяснить тот факт, почему нидерландские модные бренды столь популярны в Европе и за ее пределами. Нет сомнения в том, что творения голландских законодателей моды, от стильных
96 комбинаций Claudia Sträter до роскошных нарядов SuperTrash, смогут занять достойное место в гардеробе любой модницы. Если модельеры продолжат развитие индустрии в том же направлении, нидерландская мода, не имеющая границ и не идущая на компромиссы, в скором времени сможет легко покорить мир. supertrash.com, mly.nl, claudiastrater.com 50: Leading The Way
Впереди Всех Обувной бренд United Nude, возглавляемый Ремом Д Колхасом, расширяет границы стиля и производства. Верити Хоган узнает подробности прошлого, настоящего и будущего марки История успеха United Nude началась как в одной из сказок, – с романтического приключения. Креативный директор и соучредитель обувной компании Рем Д Колхас учился на архитектора, пока возлюбленная не разбила ему сердце. После этого он решил «покончить с идеей проектирования зданий и занялся проектированием женской обуви». Как и любую сказку, эту историю ждал счастливый конец. Работами Колхаса заинтересовались модельеры Миучча Прада и Серджио Росси, а немногим позже он познакомился с Галахадом Кларком, наследником знаменитой обувной династии Clarks, вместе с которым основал United Nude в 2003 году. С тех пор бренд производит знаменитую на весь мир обувь, globalblue.com
отличающуюся простым, элегантным и инновационным дизайном. Колхас (не путать с его дядей архитектором Ремом Колхасом) изучал архитектуру в политехническом университете Делфта TU Delf, что не могло не отразиться на его творчестве. «Дизайн новых моделей я привык начинать с четкой и ясной концепции, отражающей определенную архитектурную форму», – признает он. С момента появления United Nude, дизайнеры постоянно расширяли границы возможного в обувной сфере. «В то время обувь была довольно скучной, осознав это, мы решили не упускать шанс и поделится с миром нашими идеями», – поясняет Колхас. К счастью, последние 15 лет принесли в индустрию немало открытий и революционных изменений. «Мне кажется, что возможность быстро обмениваться информацией через интернет привела к буму во всех креативных областях, включая обувную индустрию, – считает он. – Мы были в числе первых производителей, решившихся мыслить нестандартно, и я считаю, что нашу позицию мы не утратили». Ряд нашумевших коллабораций помог бренду United Nude выделиться из толпы. Среди главных достижений Колхаса – совместная работа с голландским дизайнером Ирисом Ван Херпеном над девятью коллекциями Haute Couture, создание эксклюзивных туфель на шпильке 30 сантиметров для презентации нового парфюма от Леди Гаги, а также сотрудничество с архитектором äаха Хадидом над дизайном туфель
97 Nova. «Мы работаем с теми людьми, которые могут принести что-то новое в нашу работу и дополнить ее, – говорит Колхас, – людьми с оригинальным мышлением и идеями, людьми с большим талантом, теми, кого мы вдохновляем и кто вдохновляет нас». В сезоне весна-лето 2015 бренд продолжил радовать поклонников инновациями, выпустив несколько новых концептуальных моделей, включая серию Lo Res. Сандалии Lo Res Earth имеют все шансы стать хитом этого сезона. Эта обувь отличается универсальным дизайном, обтекающей ногу эргономичной подошвой, а также закругленным носком и рифленой резиновой подошвой в стиле спортлюкс. Популярные модели прошлого сезона были переосмыслены и также представлены в новой весенней коллекции: туфли Jacky с каблуком геометрической формы теперь доступны в новых цветах и материалах. В понимании Колхаса понятие инновация не ограничивается новым материалом или цветом. Дизайнер известен своей тягой к передовым технологиям производства, и 3D принтеры один из ярких тому примеров. Тем не менее, он сомневается, что эра «напечатанной» обуви уже не за горами. «В ближайшем будущем 3D принтеры, скорее всего, будут применяться лишь частично для создания небольших эксклюзивных коллекций». Следующий проект United Nude будет реализован в сотрудничестве с лидером индустрии 3D печати – компанией
3D Systems, а также пятью ведущими архитекторами и дизайнерами. Полученный результат будет представлен на выставке Salone del Mobile в Милане. В планы дизайнера также входит выпуск серии часов и машин Lo Res. Кроме того, в скором времени будет представлена новая концепция фирменного магазина. Для бутиков United Nude характерен темный интерьер с индивидуальной подсветкой для каждой пары обуви. В будущем Колхас планирует сделать его менее радикальным, более практичным и подходящим для расширяющегося ассортимента. Несмотря на обилие успешных проектов, самым главным бестселлером бренда продолжают оставаться босоножки Möbius. Они ознаменовали собой новую эру обувной индустрии, размыв границы между индустриальным дизайном и модой. Использование сплошной пластины, соединившей подошву, верх и каблук в одно целое, привело к открытию новых техник и новых материалов. Это любимая модель Колхаса. «Пожалуй, это одно из ключевых моих творений. Именно ему я обязан своей профессией, карьерой и местом жительства. Другими словами – это не просто обувь, которую я создал, но это также обувь, которая создала меня». unitednude.com 93: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping
98 позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.
不失个性的休闲风格，吸引了来自国际的目 光，Kate Moore带您探索 荷兰时装常被形容为充满概念性、创新性、 开放 且务实。这些令人称道的特点也意味 着，自1990 年代中叶起，该国成衣品牌已开 始 越来越多地引起国际关注，这股风潮由
SuperTrash、Scotch & Soda、Claudia Sträter与Viktor & Rolf等品牌领衔。作为 全球最负盛名的两所时装院校— —分别在 埃因霍温和阿纳姆——的所在地，并拥有阿 姆斯特丹国际时装周、阿纳姆时尚双年展和 荷兰时尚大奖等各项盛事，荷兰正迅速成为
1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.
欧洲领先的女装设计国度之一。 占据高街时尚与奢侈品之间的市场空 档，SuperTrash 是荷兰近年来涌现的翘楚 品牌之一。品牌摩登的产品系列包含奢华针 织、气场高跟鞋、印花连衣裙与牛仔基本款
2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов.
等。 “在数字时代，时尚是向所有人开放的， 但这并不意味着人人都能担负得起， ”品牌 所有者Olcay Gulsen解释道。 “我希望SuperTrash能缩短这一差距，让时尚照进更多 女性的现实。” 这个最近迎来十周年纪念的品牌，时常 在阿姆斯特丹时装周上 进行发布，在全球
Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €50 и сэкономьте до 16% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
2000多家精品店中有售，并拥有自己的品牌 专卖店。在 2015 年春夏，品牌展示的是“街 头时尚与都会风尚的融合— —这里欢迎任 何人，期待任何事” ，Gulsen 表示。廓型设计 俏皮又冷艳，单品则包括褶皱连衣裙，解构 风格功能夹克，以及带有运动细节的女性化 郁金香裙。其中名为Stella 的流苏皮裙脱颖 而出。 “低调的搭配方法是将其与针织毛衣 组合，夜间穿着则可以搭配高跟鞋与金属元 素上衣， ”Gulsen建议道。
SuperTr ash 将气场单品与实穿基本 款 搭 配 在 一 起，体 现 了 荷 兰 式 的 时 尚品 味。 “我觉得荷兰女性在穿着上非常讲求实
美文翻译
用， ”Gulsen 表示。 “这并不意味着我们相较 时髦更爱舒适；我们只是比较擅长将两者融
44: Efortless Cool 酷感天成
合打造时尚造型。” 新兴女装品牌 M LY 的幕后推手，设计 师 Emily Hermans 深表赞同，她将荷兰时
荷兰女装设 计师们崇尚实用美学，创造出
globalblue.com
装描述为“耐穿、善用创新技术、拥有独特侧
99 重与理念”。MLY的服饰以独特面料而独树 一帜，这些面料许多是由Emily Hermans
supertrash.com, mly.nl, claudiastrater.com
亲自研发的，包括生态认证纱线和天然可生 物降解纤维：设计师以她的艺术触觉而著
50: Leading The Way
称。成果就是一系列拥有强烈大胆印花的设
捷足先登
计系列。 “典型的MLY拥趸都拥有丰富多彩 的人生，喜欢引起人们的注意， ”Hermans 承认。 “她们热爱印花设计也重视品质。” 设计师在阿姆斯特丹设计学院 （ A M F I ）学习期间，就 对自行研发面料
Rem D Koolhaas的鞋履品牌United Nude 继续创新鞋品设 计与制造。Ve r it y Hogan 独家访问，为您讲述品牌的过去、现 在和未来
十分热衷。 “有门课叫做纺织物造型，我们 不得不从零开始创造自己的面料， ”她解释 的2015年春夏系列中，设计师反思过往，从
Nude传奇般的成功故事始于一 Nude品牌创意总 监及创始人Rem D Koolhaas在念建筑
之前作品中选取出不同的主题、图案、颜色
系的时候 被一 位女孩伤透了心，这件 伤心
与轮廓，创造出一组千变万化的时尚拼贴。
往事让他移情别恋， “ 将建筑美学精缩于女
最终成果是一个具有多面性的系列，同时带
性纤巧的鞋品”。这个故事最终有一个美好
有优雅风格与街头元素，包括装饰精致细节
的结局，Koolhaas 的首个设计为Miuccia
的坚固廓型，色彩斑斓的几何图案与更为有
Prada 和Sergio Rossi所赏识。之后，他 遇到了Clarks 家族的第七代传人Galahad Clark，并与之一起在 2003 年创建了United Nude。
说。 “从此我对织物产生了巨大热情。”在她
机的设计。 除去这份多元，M LY 的整体美学还是 典型的荷兰风格：不造作与实穿的基础上，
United
个浪漫的遗憾。United
平添几分个性使其更为有趣。品牌不仅在
从那 之后，该品牌生产出集优 雅与创
理念上深植本土，其产品更几乎 全在荷兰
意，时尚与舒适为一体的创新鞋履，并逐步
生产。 “生产过程中的主体部分都在这里进
广为人知。Koolhaas 在荷兰代夫特科技大
行， ”Hermans证实。 “我们讲求环保，非常
学学习建筑（不要将他同与他同名的建筑
强调就近选取技术和工厂。”
师叔叔相混淆），他所设计鞋履外观也处处
拥有几乎全荷兰班底的团队，Claudia
体现着建筑学的理念。 “每一双鞋子的设计
Sträter正成为该国最具认知度的女装品牌
都始于非常简单的概念，或是空间概念，或
之一。品牌善于将国际潮流介绍给荷兰观
与地球引力相关，这其实也是建筑的设计方
众，同时其一贯的高品质与对功能性的关
法， ”他说道。
注，吸引着拥有忙碌、积极生活的女性。品
United
Nude从品牌创立之初便一直
牌设计风格隽永，裁剪干净，线条优雅：包
在拓展鞋品设计的新疆界。 “当时鞋子的造
括极易搭配的单品、印花通勤连衣裙与配色
型普遍枯燥乏味，我们从中看到了开创鞋履
极具魅力的休闲西服。
新世界的机会， ”他解释道。让人高兴的是，
在注重实穿与多功能性的同时不失时
在过去的十五年间，业界进行了多种尝试和
尚，或许就是荷兰时装品牌持续在欧洲与世
拓展，Kool haas 对这种探索非常赞赏。 “
界其他地区走俏的原因。从Claudia Sträter
我认为互联网促进了信息共享，使得各个创
的时髦单品，到SuperTrash的奢华基本款，
意领域交叉影响，鞋品设计也不例外， ”他说
荷兰设计师奉上提亮大众衣橱的作品。随
道。 “我们曾是打破框架的领跑者，我想我
着接力棒传递到下一代设计师手中— —他
们现在依然是。”
们将肩负继承发扬这一美学并将其推向极
诸多的高端合作让United
Nude处在
致的使命— —荷兰时尚进军国际的步伐势
行业前列。Koolhaas曾与荷兰设计师 Iris
将延续。
van Herpen 连续合作了九次高定时装秀，
100 为Lady
Gaga的Fame香水发布会专门定
制了一双12 英寸的“恨天高”。他也曾与建
我设计的一双鞋，它也成就了现在的我。”
unitednude.com
筑师Zaha Hadid合作，设计了著名的Nova 鞋。 “我们喜欢与有着奇思异想的人合作，他 们才华横溢，将不同的想法带进来。我们相
93: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
异但不相斥，互相给予启发和灵感。”
畅购全球，尊享退税
在2015年春夏鞋品的设计中，该品牌已 经推出几个新的设计概念，其中就包括抽象
当您在全球顶级购物区中的 27 万多家商店
的Lo Res系列。Lo Res“大地”凉鞋似乎将
消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税
成为这一季的主推鞋品，中性的设计，符合
服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物
人体工程学的鞋床，加上圆润的鞋头以及借
开销。每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球
鉴奢华运动鞋所使用的防滑鞋底，整个设计
蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能
为穿戴者提供完美的舒适感受。前几季的成
错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询
功元素也运用到这季新品中，比如 Jacky 靴
商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global
的几何粗跟在变换了色彩和材质之后重新呈
务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程：
Blue）服
现在新品鞋履中。 对 Koolhaas 而言，创新不仅仅局限在 颜色和材料方面。他擅长开创新的制鞋技
1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表
术，他所推崇的3D 打印技术便是最好的例
格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记
子。即便如此，他认为 3D 打印技术不会马
得保存小票。
上为人们普遍运用。 “在不久的将来，3D 打 印产品仍将是针对小众客户的定制类利基
2. 申请退税
产品，比如说与时装秀合作，或是限量版设
当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海
计。”United Nude的下一个3D打印项目将
关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后
与该行业的领导者3D Systems合作，将五
再到环球蓝联的退税点领取您的退税款。
位著名建筑师和设计师的鞋履作品在米兰 的Salone del Mobile展出。
联系方式：
haas 现在最期待的两个项目，他也期望为店 铺引入新的概念。United Nude的店铺通常
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€50即可节约高达购买价格16%的
以黑色装饰搭配灯光装置为鞋品营造一种
税。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，
移动的聚光灯效果，而在将来，Koolhaas希
但是要扣除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退
望在店铺设计中添加一些冲击效果较小、更
税申请表为单位收取现金退税手续费。
生产系列手表和Lo
Res汽车是 Kool-
能体现品牌各式设计的物品。 尽管涉猎广泛，Möbius 鞋做为United Nude的首个成功设计仍然是其立身之本。
TERJEMAHAN BAHASA INDONESIA
它首次将工业设计与时尚相结合，标志着鞋 履制造业进入新领域。其所运用的将鞋底、 鞋跟、鞋床、鞋面一体成型的莫比乌斯带设
44: Efortless Cool Keren Tanpa Repot
计为鞋品制造引入了创新方法和新型材料。 它仍然是 Koolhaas最喜欢的设计。 “他或许 是我最标志性的设计，除此之外，它也改变 了我的职业，让我投身到鞋品设计中，它改 变了我所生活的世界。换句话说，它不只是
globalblue.com
Para perancang pakaian wanita di Belanda telah berhasil menciptakan estetika yang layak sandang, yang menawarkan kemudahan tanpa mengurangi mutu,
101 dan menarik perhatian internasional dalam prosesnya, seperti yang ditelusuri oleh Kate Moore Konseptual, inovatif, dan berpikiran terbuka, namun pragmatis, itulah katakata yang selama ini digunakan untuk menggambarkan industri mode Belanda. Karakter terpuji ini berarti bahwa, sejak medio 1990-an, label pakaian siap pakai dari negara ini mulai menarik perhatian internasional, dengan merek-merek seperti SuperTrash, Scotch & Soda, Claudia Str채ter, dan Viktor & Rolf memimpin pasar. Belanda yang merupakan tempat berdirinya dua akademi mode ternama di dunia, satu di Eindhoven satu lagi di Arnhem, serta beragam program acara yang mencakup Pekan Mode Internasional Amsterdam, Arnhem Mode Biennale, dan Penghargaan Mode Belanda, telah secara cepat menjadi salah satu destinasi pakaian wanita terkemuka di Eropa. Berada di antara label merek highstreet dan mewah, SuperTrash merupakan salah satu merek terkemuka yang muncul dari Belanda dalam beberapa tahun terakhir. Koleksi kontemporernya menyajikan beragam gaya, mulai dari pakaian rajut mewah dan sepatu stiletto ekspresi, hingga gaun kain cetak dan pakaian berbahan denim. 'Di era digital, mode dapat diakses oleh semua orang, namun bukan berarti terjangkau oleh semua orang,' papar Olcay Gulsen, pemilik merek ini. 'Saya berharap SuperTrash dapat menjembatani kesenjangan ini dan menjadikan mode sebagai suatu kenyataan bagi lebih banyak perempuan.' Label yang baru saja merayakan ulang tahunnya yang ke-10 ini tampil secara rutin di Pekan Mode Amsterdam dan dijual di lebih dari 2.000 butik di seluruh dunia, selain memiliki toko merek
tunggalnya sendiri. Untuk musim semi/ musim panas 2015, koleksinya menyajikan 'gaya street fashion dan urban chic di bawah satu atap - tempat yang bisa dikunjungi semua orang dan apa pun boleh', kata Gulsen. Rancangan dengan siluet yang hidup namun tampil glamor dan beragam busana, mulai dari gaun draperi dan jaket utilitas yang dirancang ulang, hingga rok peplum feminin dengan detail yang sportif. Sebuah rok kulit berumbai - Stella - menjadi koleksi yang menonjol. 'Kenakan dengan sweter rajutan atau sepatu hak tinggi dan atasan metalik untuk acara di malam hari,' saran Gulsen. Gabungan antara rancangan yang menarik perhatian dan busana biasa yang ditawarkan oleh SuperTrash mencerminkan selera bergaya Belanda. 'Menurut saya, wanita Belanda sangat praktis dalam berpakaian,' kata Gulsen. 'Bukan berarti kami lebih memilih kenyamanan daripada gaya; hanya saja, kami tahu cara menggabungkan keduanya menjadi suatu penampilan yang modis.' Emily Hermans, sang perancang label pakaian wanita MLY yang mulai banyak digemari, sepakat akan hal ini dengan menggambarkan mode Belanda sebagai 'pantas dikenakan, dengan inovasi dalam hal teknik serta memiliki fokus dan konsep yang unik'. Koleksi MLY tampil menonjol berkat kain khas mereka, yang sebagian besar dikembangkan oleh Hermans sendiri, menampilkan benang bersertifkasi ekolabel dan serat alami yang terurai hayati; perancang ini dikenal dengan pendekatan tradisionalnya. Karyanya berupa jajaran busana yang cenderung disatukan oleh motif cetak yang kuat dan tegas. 'Karakter penggemar MLY adalah orang yang senang dengan warnawarni dan suka diperhatikan,' Hermans
102 menjelaskan. 'Dia suka desain grafs dan mengerti kualitas.' Perancang ini tertarik untuk mengembangkan bahan kainnya sendiri saat belajar di Amsterdam Fashion Institute (AMFI). 'Pelajarannya disebut dengan penataan gaya tekstil dan kami harus membuat bahan tekstil sendiri dari nol,' jelasnya. 'Merajut menjadi kecintaan saya.' Untuk koleksi musim semi/musim panas 2015, perancang ini menggunakan suasana hati refektif dengan mengambil tema, rancangan, warna, dan siluet dari koleksi sebelumnya untuk menciptakan sebuah kolase mode kaleidoskopik. Hasil akhirnya menampilkan suatu koleksi multiaspek yang menawarkan keanggunan sekaligus aksen streetwear, siluet tegas dengan detail yang halus, pola grafs penuh warna, dan rancangan yang lebih organik. Terlepas dari keragaman ini, estetika keseluruhan MLY sangat khas Belanda: pantas dipakai tanpa repot dengan tambahan secukupnya untuk membuatnya tampak menarik. Untuk menambah identitas lokal dari merek ini, hampir seluruh koleksinya diproduksi di Belanda. 'Bagian utama dari proses produksi dilakukan di sini,' Hermans menegaskan. 'Kami ramah lingkungan dan memiliki fokus yang kuat untuk terus mendekatkan pengetahuan dan pabrik.' Dengan tim yang hampir seluruhnya dari Belanda, Claudia Sträter telah menjadi salah satu label pakaian wanita yang terkenal di negara ini. Merek ini sangat mahir dalam menerjemahkan tren internasional untuk publik Belanda, sementara kualitasnya yang tinggi dan perhatiannya pada fungsi, secara khusus sangat me-narik bagi wanita sibuk dan aktif. Rancangannya memiliki kepekaan abadi, dengan potongan rapi dan garis-
globalblue.com
garis elegan: bayangkan busana siang dengan motif cetak yang mudah dipadupadankan dan jahitan santai dalam palet warna-warni menarik. Upaya untuk berfokus pada kelayapakaian dan keserbacekatan tanpa mengorbankan gaya ini, mungkin menjadi alasan merek mode Belanda terus berkembang di seluruh Eropa dan lebih jauh lagi. Mulai dari busana chic karya Claudia Sträter hingga busana standar mewah dari SuperTrash, para perancang Belanda menawarkan busana-busana yang bisa menjadi kebanggaan di lemari pakaian siapa pun. Dan ketika tongkat estafet ini diserahkan kepada generasi perancang berikutnya - yang berkomitmen untuk menghormati estetika ini sekaligus menciptakan terobosan-terobosan - invasi internasional Belanda tampaknya akan terus berlanjut. supertrash.com, mly.nl, claudiastrater.com 50: Leading The Way Memimpin Jalan Merek alas kaki United Nude milik Rem D Koolhaas melanjutkan terobosannya dalam hal desain dan produksi. Dia bercerita tentang masa lalu, saat ini, dan masa depan dalam wawancara dengan Verity Hogan Dongeng kisah sukses United Nude berawal dari sepercik kekecewaan romantis. Rem D Koolhaas, direktur kreatif dan salah seorang pendiri perusahaan alas kaki ini, berkuliah di jurusan arsitektur ketika patah hati karena seorang gadis. Kejadian ini membuatnya 'menurunkan skala arsitektur ke ukuran yang paling kecil dan rentan, yaitu kaki wanita’. Cerita ini berakhir bahagia; desain awal
103 Koolhaas mendapatkan pujian dari Miuccia Prada dan Sergio Rossi, sebelum dia bertemu dengan Galahad Clark, seorang pembuat sepatu generasi ketujuh dan anggota dari dinasti Clark, lalu keduanya meluncurkan United Nude pada tahun 2003. Sejak itu, merek ini dikenal menghasilkan beberapa alas kaki yang paling canggih di dunia secara teknis dengan rancangan yang dapat langsung dikenali berkat kegamblangan, keanggunan, dan inovasinya. Koolhaas (orang yang berbeda dengan Rem Koolhaas, pamannya yang juga seorang arsitek) mengambil jurusan arsitektur di Universitas Teknik (TU) Delft), dan ilmu yang didapatnya di sana sangat jelas tampak dalam rancangan sepatunya yang artistik. 'Untuk setiap rancangan, saya selalu mulai dari konsep yang sangat jelas dan dasar, yaitu bermain dengan ruang atau gravitasi, yang dapat didefnisikan sebagai suatu pendekatan arsitektur,' akunya. Rancangan United Nude selalu menampilkan terobosan-terobosan di bidang alas kaki, bahkan sejak awal lahirnya merek ini. 'Di masa itu, sepatu secara umum agak membosankan, jadi kami melihat peluang yang baik untuk menyajikan sepatu yang berbeda dengan cerita baru,' Koolhaas menjelaskan. Untungnya, dalam 15 tahun terakhir, industri ini mulai mau mengambil risiko yang lebih besar, sebuah perkembangan yang disambut baik oleh Koolhaas. 'Saya pikir kemudahan berbagi informasi melalui Internet juga menjadi penyebab perkawinan silang besar-besaran di segala bidang kreatif, termasuk sepatu,' tegasnya. 'Kami adalah salah satu perintis yang keluar dari batasan-batasan ini, dan saya pikir masih hingga sekarang.' Sejumlah kolaborasi mencolok telah
membantu United Nude tetap memimpin di depan. Koolhaas bekerja sama dengan perancang asal Belanda, Iris van Herpen, dalam sembilan pertunjukan pentas busana Haute Couture secara berturut-turut, menciptakan sebuah rancangan pesanan khusus untuk Lady Gaga dalam acara peluncuran parfumnya, Fame (dengan hak 30 cm), dan bekerja sama dengan arsitek Zaha Hadid untuk menciptakan Nova Shoe yang unik. 'Kami bekerja dengan orang-orang yang menawarkan hal-hal baru ke pasar,' kata Koolhaas. 'Orang-orang yang cukup berbeda dengan kami, namun cukup serasi untuk mendapatkan kekuatan yang lebih besar melalui kerja sama, orang-orang dengan bakat besar, serta mereka yang terinspirasi oleh dan menginspirasi kami.' Untuk musim semi/musim panas 2015, merek ini terus berinovasi dan telah meluncurkan beberapa konsep baru, antara lain jajaran Lo Res. Sandal Lo Res Earth tampaknya akan menjadi salah satu alas kaki populer musim ini; dengan rancangan uniseksnya, sepatu ini memiliki bantalan kaki ergonomis yang sesuai dengan kaki pemakai, sedangkan bagian jari kakinya yang membulat dan sol karet bergerigi memberikan nuansa sport mewah. Keberhasilan dari musim sebelumnya juga telah digagas ulang untuk musim semi: sepatu bot Jacky dengan tumit geometrisnya yang tebal, sekarang tersedia dengan bahan dan warna baru. Bagi Koolhaas, inovasi tidak hanya terbatas pada warna dan bahan yang baru. Perancang ini dikenal sebagai perintis teknik manufaktur baru dan sistem cetak 3D yang dipeloporinya menjadi contoh utama. Meski begitu, dia meyakini bahwa perlu beberapa lama hingga sepatu pompa cetak menjadi sesuatu yang biasa. 'Dalam waktu dekat, cetak
104 3D mungkin hanya akan berfungsi sebagai metode produksi yang lebih eksklusif untuk ceruk pasar berskala kecil, misalnya untuk pertunjukan pentas busana atau rancangan edisi terbatas.' Proyek cetak 3D United Nude berikutnya akan diproduksi bersama pemimpin pasar industri ini, 3D Systems, serta akan mempertemukan lima arsitek dan perancang terkenal untuk menciptakan sepatusepatu yang akan dipamerkan di Salone del Mobile di Milan. Jajaran desain jam tangan dan mobil Lo Res adalah dua prakarsa mendatang yang saat ini paling membuat Koolhaas bersemangat. Perancang ini juga ingin memperkenalkan sebuah konsep toko baru. Toko United Nude biasanya menampilkan dekorasi gelap dengan instalasi lampu yang memberikan gerak, suasana, dan sorotan pada sepatu-sepatunya; di masa mendatang, dia ingin menciptakan sesuatu yang sedikit kurang ekstrem dan sedikit lebih praktis untuk mencerminkan tawaran produk yang lebih luas. Terlepas dari perbauran ini, sepatu MĂśbius masih tetap menjadi desain United Nude yang paling dikenal dan merupakan kesuksesan pertamanya. Sepatu ini menandai sebuah era baru dalam manufaktur alas kaki dan yang pertama me-ngaburkan batas antara desain industri dan mode. Penggunaan lembaran tunggal untuk membentuk sol, hak, bantalan kaki, dan lidah sepatu menciptakan suatu penemuan metode konstruksi dan material baru. Rancangan ini masih menjadi favorit Koolhaas. 'Ini mungkin rancangan saya yang paling ikonis, namun selain itu, sepatu ini juga yang membuat saya mengubah profesi, memulai karir saya, membuat saya berpindah tempat tinggal. Dengan kata lain, ini bukan
globalblue.com
hanya sepatu yang saya ciptakan - namun juga sepatu yang membentuk diri saya.' unitednude.com 93: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free Saat ingin memborong dunia, belanjalah bebas pajak Belanja Bebas Pajak Global Blue memberi Anda penghematan atas pembelian di lebih dari 270.000 toko di berbagai kawasan belanja terbaik di dunia. Jadi, mengapa tidak bergabung dengan 26 juta wisatawan yang berbelanja bebas pajak bersama Global Blue setiap tahun? Cukup cari tanda bintang biru atau tanyakan tentang Global Blue, lalu ikuti proses gampang kami. 1. Belanja Kapan saja Anda berbelanja, mintalah Formulir Bebas Pajak Global Blue dan simpan baik-baik bon/tanda terima Anda. 2. Klaim Ketika berangkat pulang, kunjungi loket pabean di titik keberangkatan untuk meminta persetujuan atas bon sebelum menagih pengembalian dana di salah satu meja layanan pelanggan kami. Kontak: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Belanjalah minimum â‚Ź50 dan hemat hingga 16% dari harga pembelian. Ingatlah bahwa pengembalian dana fnal yang Anda terima akan mencakup total PPN, dikurangi biaya administrasi. Di beberapa bandara dikenakan biaya penanganan tunai per Formulir Bebas Pajak jika Anda memerlukan pengembalian segera dalam bentuk uang tunai.
TUDOR STYLE
106 | P RO D U C T S
TRAVEL IN STYLE Made from luxurious ponyskin, this versatile bag by Dutch brand Jannissima is designed to be multi-purpose, and can be used as a tablet case, document holder or even a handbag. Designer Jannita van der Haak focuses on innovation and an eye for detail in her designs, fusing traditional techniques Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 93
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PHOTO: PICKLES-STUDIO
SOUVENIR
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