SHOP Italy SS20

ITALY | 意大利 | ИТАЛИЯ | イタリア

EXPLORE EXPLORE ITALY:ITALY: discover discover the inspiring the inspiring sights and sights and stores of stores this of vibrant this vibrant country country

The Mall Luxury Outlet Via Europa 13/b | Leccio Reggello (FI) +39 055 8657245 www.theluxurymaison.com

EDITOR’S LETTER Essential Info For the very latest information, scan the QR code on this page to head straight to our website, globalblue.com, and find everything you need to navigate the best shopping destinations on earth.

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Welcome to Italy

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SALLY McILHONE

ILLUSTRATION: PETRA ERIKSSON

Let us help you discover the very best of this cosmopolitan European country. Whether you are travelling for business or leisure, Italy has much to offer – we reveal a selection of the season’s highlights in our guide section (page 55).

Don’t miss our features on the Milanese designers showcasing a green theme this season (page 38), the luxury Italian fashion houses supporting communities through education (page 44), and the rise of contemporary Italian high jewellery (page 50).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy.

We have over a decade’s experience of publishing guides to the most prestigious destinations across the globe. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top brands you’ll find in Italy. Discover the best shopping destinations in the country with Global Blue.

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CONTRIBUTORS

FANI MARI

LUCINDA TURNER Lucinda Turner, SHOP’s senior fashion editor, studied linguistics at Queen Mary University of London before pursuing a career in publishing. Since graduating she has worked in the fashion departments of several titles, including Tatler, Condé Nast Brides and Marie Claire.

ANDREW NYE Andrew Nye’s clever conceptual style makes him the perfect choice to illustrate this season’s cover of SHOP Italy. The striking image depicts famous Italian landmarks in cities such as Venice and Rome. His other clients include Eurostar and Airbnb.

Discover SHOP Italy and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

ILLUSTRATION: ANDREW NYE; PHOTO: (TOP) VANITYSTUDIOS.CO.UK

Fani Mari completed an MA in fashion journalism at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London and has contributed to a variety of publications and platforms worldwide, including Dazed and HuffPost.

SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L

PUBLISHING

Head of Editorial Sally McIlhone

Publisher James Morris

Cover illustrator Andrew Nye

Senior designer Adam Pietrzyk

Chinese editor Yuan Fang

Contributors Aaron Carline, Fani Mari

Midweight designers Paulina Rasińska, Karolina Żak

Russian editor Gary Ramazanov

Production editor Farrah Moore

Junior designers Tatjiana Antoniou, Anna Nowakowska, Łukasz Owczarek

Senior fashion editor Lucinda Turner Senior news editor Ginger Rose Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Myers, Harriet O’Brien

Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto

Studio production coordinators Iza Kuczyńska, Marek Oświecimski Print Walstead Krakow

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editor Mónica R Goya

G LO B A L B L U E I TA LY Managing director Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales manager Denise Bolandrina Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Marketing executive Laura Gallo Partner relationship manager Antonella Bertossi Head of key accounts Stefano Cardinale Head of accounts Marco Cavalli Key account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Ilaria Sassarini, Marco Savino, Andrea Zavattarelli Account managers Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Elisa Caporaso, Laura Durante, Giorgia Faro, Gabriele Giuntini, Davide Grechi, Marco Marino, Diana Martin, Marta Miserendino, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Vincenzo Saponara, Giordano Senzacqua Sellout team Giulia Belligrandi, Erika Bordoni, Fillipo John Ciccarelli, Andrea Di Comite, Livia Gargelli, Sara Villoresi Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese

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Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Rhapsody Media for Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2020 Global Blue

ROMA VIA FRATTINA 42/43 CENTRO COMM. EUROMA 2 CENTRO COMM. PORTA DI ROMA LOC. BUFALOTTA VIA APPIA NUOVA 7/11 VENEZIA MERCERIE SAN MARCO, RAMO SAN ZULIAN 782

CONTENTS CHECK OUT 14

SHOP selects a standout piece from Italy this season

PRODUCTS 16

Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

INVESTMENT PIECE 26

Future classics to buy this season: Aquazzura’s versatile Deneuve shoes

SHOP WINDOW 28

Explore the renovated Panerai store in Florence

NEWS 30

Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

IN STORE …

36

… with Rinascente Turin’s store manager Diana Valente

FEATURE 38 THE GREEN LIGHT From tropical prints to plant-inspired accessories and natural, sustainable fabrics, Milan’s designers have gone green for spring/ summer 2020, as Fani Mari reports

globalblue.com

FEATURE 44 STYLE WITH SUBSTANCE Italy’s luxury fashion houses are turning to education as a means to support local communities, society and culture.

Ginger Rose Clark profiles the big names with big hearts

FEATURE 50 HIGHLY DESIRABLE

Italy has a long heritage of exquisite fine jewellery creations and now the country’s innovative houses are raising their games even further.

Lucinda Turner explores the rise of contemporary Italian high jewellery

GUIDE 55

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Rome, Milan, Venice and Florence

HOW TO SHOP TAX FREE 86 The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS 89 中文翻 译 93 Русский Перевод 100 日本語翻訳 SOUVENIR 106

The essential item to bring home

MAXMARA.COM MILANO, Corso Vittorio Emanuele - ROMA, Via dei Condotti, 17 - FIRENZE, Via dei Tornabuoni, 66 - VENEZIA, San Marco, 5033

CH EC K O U T

From Italy, With Love

Founded in the late 1980s, Italian brand Pinko represents all things fun, bold and fashion-forward. Offering accessible luxury on the Italian high street and with a strong international presence, the brand is sure to be high on your shopping list during a visit to Italy’s fashion capital. In 2016 Pinko launched the Love bag and the renowned design is now one of the label’s bestselling pieces. For spring/ summer 2020 the style has been reimagined in a range of different ways, including embellished, Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

fringed and quilted versions, each featuring its elegant signature motif of two circling love birds. The pictured Classic Twist Love bag is a timeless take on the instantly recognisable model and is guaranteed to become one of your wardrobe staples. LT Pinko Love bag, €295, Pinko, Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8736 8995, pinko.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

16 | P R O D U C T S

BULGARI SUNGLASSES, €404, BULGARI, VIA DE’ TOURNABUONI 56R, 50213 FLORENCE, +39 055 239 6786, BULGARI.COM

ATELIER SWAROVSKI EARRINGS, €299, ATELIER SWAROVSKI, VIA DEI CONDOTTI/LARGO GOLDONI 48, 00187 ROME, +39 06 6992 1615, ATELIERSWAROVSKI.COM

New Utility This season, swap your summer dress for a chic boiler suit dressed up with luxury accessories

RED VALENTINO SANDALS, €275, RED VALENTINO, CORSO VENEZIA 6, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 3675 6030, REDVALENTINO.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

WEEKEND MAX MARA JUMPSUIT, €339, WEEKEND MAX MARA, VIA NAZIONALE 88, 00184 ROME, +39 06 8879 6526, WEEKENDMAXMARA.COM

PHOTO: (SUNGLASSES) ANTONIO BARELLA, STUDIO ORIZZONTE

BOTTEGA VENETA CLUTCH, €2,100, RINASCENTE, PIAZZA DEL DUOMO, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7202 3854, BOTTEGAVENETA.COM

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Totally Tropical Embrace a retro-print Hawaiian shirt and sandals to take you effortlessly from the city to the beach

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SUNGLASSES, €180, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, VIA DE’ TORNABUONI 3R, 50123 FLORENCE, +39 055 264254, ZEGNA.COM

GANT SHIRT, €119, RINASCENTE, VIA DEL TRITONE 61, 00187 ROME, +39 06 879161, GANT.COM

BALLY BAG, €1,050, BALLY, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 29, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7600 8406, BALLY.COM

MANOLO BLAHNIK SANDALS, €675, LUISA VIA ROMA, VIA ROMA 19R-21R, 50123 FLORENCE, +39 055 906 4116, MANOLOBLAHNIK.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

ACNE STUDIOS SHORTS, €200, ACNE STUDIOS, PIAZZA DEL CARMINE 6, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 8410 2383, ACNESTUDIOS.COM

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TOD’S SUNGLASSES, €250, TOD’S, VIA DE’ TORNABUONI 60R, 50123 FLORENCE, +39 055 219423, TODS.COM

SANDRO CARDIGAN, €145, SANDRO, VIA BIGLI 21, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7634 1398, SANDRO-PARIS.COM

70s Spirit Wide-legged bleached denim, vintageinspired accessories and a chic cardigan make the ultimate summer uniform

ESCADA SPORT JEANS, €249, ESCADA, PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 7-8, 00187 ROME, +39 06 678 6995, ESCADA.COM

LOUIS VUITTON BAG, €2,650, LOUIS VUITTON, SALIZADA SAN MOISÉ, SAN MARCO 1345, 30124 VENICE, +39 800 308980, LOUISVUITTON.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

SPORTMAX SANDALS, PRICE ON REQUEST, SPORTMAX, VIA BORGOGNONA 7A-7B, 00187 ROME, +39 06 6994 0967, SPORTMAX.COM

22 | PRODUCTS

LOOK SHARP Mix up your new-season tailoring with neutral shades of beige and green

JIL SANDER BAG, €790, JIL SANDER, VIA PIETRO VERRI 6, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 777 2991, JILSANDER.COM

ROLEX WATCH, PRICE ON REQUEST, PISA OROLOGERIA, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 24, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7631 7726, ROLEX.COM

JIMMY CHOO SHOES, €550, JIMMY CHOO, VIA SANT’ANDREA 1A, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 4548 1770, JIMMYCHOO.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

BOSS TROUSERS, €199.95, BOSS, VIA FRATTINA 136-137, 00187 ROME, +39 06 678 6173, HUGOBOSS.COM

PHOTOS: (WATCH) © ROLEX; (SHOES) © RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY; (BAG) © MICHELE SILVESTRO

BOSS JACKET, €545, BOSS, VIA FRATTINA 136-137, 00187 ROME, +39 06 678 6173, HUGOBOSS.COM

24 | P R O D U C T S

Craft Work An enduring summer trend, raffia, linen and wicker bags are going nowhere for spring/summer 2020

CaSaDei bag, €1,150, CaSadei, Via de’ toRnabuoni 74R, 50123 FloRenCe, +39 055 287240, CaSadei.Com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

miU miU bag, €1,200, miu miu, Salizada San moiSé, San maRCo 1471, 30124 VeniCe, +39 041 810 6066, miumiu.Com

STella mCCaRTney bag, €645, Stella mCCaRtney, RinaSCente, Piazza del duomo, 20121 milan, +39 02 7208 0756, StellamCCaRtney.Com

*SHOP Highlight in paid partnership with Saint Laurent

PHOTOS: (CaSadei) © MarCO LaMbri; (Fendi) © aedO PuLTrOne

SainT laURenT by anTHOny VaCCaRellO bag, €1,890, Saint lauRent, Via de’ toRnabuoni 43-45, 50123 FloRenCe, +39 055 904 0100, ySl.Com

S H O P | 25

Celine by HeDi Slimane bag, €790, Celine, Via dei Condotti 20a, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 7594, Celine.Com

FenDi bag, €2,400, Fendi, Via de’ toRnabuoni 40R, 50123 FloRenCe, +39 055 212305, Fendi.Com

PaTRizia PePe bag, €290, PatRizia PePe, Via aleSSandRo manzoni 38, 20121 milan, +39 02 7601 4477, PatRiziaPePe.Com eRmannO SCeRVinO bag, €2,500, eRmanno SCeRVino, Via del babuino 97, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 3173, eRmannoSCeRVino.Com

lOewe bag, €1,980, loewe, Piazza di SPagna 88, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 3598, loewe.Com

globalblue.com

alexanDeR mCQUeen bag, €1,790, alexandeR mCQueen, Via PietRo VeRRi 8, 20121 milan, +39 02 7600 3374, alexandeRmCQueen.Com

26 | P R O D U C T S

INVESTMENT

PIECE

Elegant, feminine and effortlessly Italian, footwear brand Aquazzura is a firm favourite with the fashion set. Its flagship store in Florence is the perfect place to discover the classic Deneuve shoe style, as Lucinda Turner reports

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

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PHOTOS: (ALL LEFT) © MARCO LAMBRI

‘With all their shades and refined styles – from pumps to sandals, and mules to ballerinas – the Deneuve is the perfect match for the modern woman and her active lifestyle.’

Each pair of shoes is specifically designed to flatter the foot, with side cut-outs and toe points created at precise angles. Comfort is also key when it comes to the Deneuve and each pair is made from butter-soft suede or leather for all-day wear. The pumps are available with either 85mm or 105mm heels, so customers will be able to choose the perfect height for them.

Crafted in Italy, two Deneuve styles are reinvented each season, with enduringly popular black, nude and red versions available throughout the year. For spring/summer 2020, the eye-catching monochrome striped pumps and vibrant sunshine-yellow sandals are sure to be top of many wish lists.

From timeless to avant-garde, towering heels to modest mules, Aquazzura’s Deneuve shoe is available in a range of options. These endlessly elegant, classic shoes have a subtly stylish twist, just like the brand itself With an international reputation for exceptional art and craftsmanship, Florence was Columbian-born Edgardo Osorio’s first choice for the location of his Aquazzura footwear brand – the label’s headquarters and flagship are both housed in the city’s stunning Palazzo Corsini palace. Founded in 2011, Aquazzura has become almost as synonymous with Florence as Michelangelo’s David and the spirit of true Italian style is at the heart of all its creations. Instantly recognisable for its unapologetically glamorous yet wearable and fashion-forward aesthetic, Aquazzura has a host of famous fans, including Beyoncé, Rihanna and Gwyneth Paltrow.

While the brand is rooted in its Italian heritage, it looked to a French icon for inspiration when it came to designing one of its most celebrated styles – the Deneuve.

First introduced as a pump, it was named after actress Catherine Deneuve and features a signature dainty bow. Now offering quirky updates to four classic shoe styles, the model is available as pumps, sandals, mules and ballet flats.

‘The Deneuve pumps are one of the most emblematic Aquazzura designs,’ says Osorio. globalblue.com

•

Aquazzura Deneuve pumps, from €550; and sandals, from €550, Aquazzura, Lungarno Corsini 42, 50123 Florence, +39 055 291242, aquazzura.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 80

SHOP WINDOW

Last year Panerai reopened its historic boutique on Piazza San Giovanni in Florence, the city where the brand was founded in 1860.

The label worked with acclaimed architect and designer Patricia Urquiola to update the space, which comprises both a flagship boutique and museum. Urquiola chose walnut wood and marble in a nod to Panerai’s Italian heritage, and brass to evoke its nautical ties – Panerai was an official supplier to the royal Italian navy before evolving into the world-renowned watch brand we know today. Panerai’s original location was on Ponte alle Grazie but it has Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

been at its current address on Piazza San Giovanni for well over a century, making this a fitting place to immerse yourself in the brand’s world. Discover its fascinating history at the museum – complete with a wax figure of founder Giuseppe Panerai by Musée Grévin – before shopping the brand’s Radiomir, Luminor, Luminor Due and Submersible collections. GRC Panerai, Piazza San Giovanni 14R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 904 0013, panerai.com H

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 83

PHOTO: PANERAI

HISTORY IN THE MAKING

30 | N E W S

FREE SPIRIT

For spring/summer 2020 Longchamp looks to two different decades, the 1970s and 90s, for inspiration, with ready-to-wear that seamlessly blends bohemian and sporty influences. The collection includes new iterations of some of the brand’s most famous bag styles. The Roseau has been updated with sleek top handles and reinvented as a bucket bag, and is also evoked through the collection’s bamboo-shaped hardware on thin leather belts.

Le Pliage takes on new proportions, presented in both a mini and a nano version in line with the current trend for microbags. The pictured leather Nano Le Pliage model (€180) is a playful accessory that will enhance your summer look, whether you opt for black, vibrant pink or a light metallic shade. GRC Longchamp, Via della Spiga 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8493 2705, longchamp.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 76

PHOTO: (LEFT) © CHRISTOPHE PETITEAU

SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL

Etro’s spring/summer 2020 collection is rooted in travel and inspired by retreat destinations such as Goa or Ibiza, which became popular with freethinkers in the 1970s. A nomadic theme is reinforced throughout the collection by corsair influences: flowing, bohemian dresses are counter-balanced by slouchy tailoring and masculine-inspired pieces that lend a preppy edge to the collection. True to the brand’s signature style, the spring/ summer offering features a wealth of patterns, including ikat and paisley.

Details such as embroidery and metallic fringing capture the brand’s signature maximalism, while velvet jackets provide an opulent finishing note – this is Etro at its best. GRC Etro, Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1340, 30124 Venice , +39 041 523 2599, etro.com

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TEAM SPIRIT This year Dsquared2 celebrates its 25th anniversary. The brand launched its first menswear collection in 1995 and expanded to encompass womenswear in 2003. Although based in Italy, its Canadian-born founders, brothers Dean and Dan Caten, have always referred to their North American heritage in their collections. The maple leaf, for example, is a recurring motif and appears in the brand’s latest spring/summer 2020 collaboration with Pepsi Max. The limited-edition capsule collection of 43 items for men and women spans denim, sweaters, swimwear, accessories and more in a colour palette that refers to Pepsi Max’s advertising from the 1980s and 90s. This collaboration is a fitting start to Dsquared2’s anniversary year, tapping into the playful spirit that has come to define the brand. GRC Dsquared2, Via del Babuino 180-182, 00187 Rome, +39 06 4520 0809, dsquared2.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 56

FIT FOR A KING Founded in 1860, Frette is renowned for its luxury linen. Over the course of the brand’s 160-year history, 500 European royal families have used Frette bed linen and it was once the official purveyor to the Italian royal family. Frette’s spring/summer 2020 collection is a continuation of its Style of Living range, which has offered quality designs for the home since 2018 – think bed linen, bath linen, decorative pillows, throws and more. This season features the brand’s classic designs, such as Chains and Links Embroidery, and navy blue, a new addition to the label’s signature colour palette. GRC Frette, Calle Frezzeria, San Marco 1725, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 4914, frette.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 76 globalblue.com

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DARING DESIGN

ANIMAL MAGIC Il Bisonte was founded by Wanny di Filippo in 1970 as an artisan workshop. In the five decades since then, the much-loved Florentine brand has become renowned for its vegetable-tanned leather bags, made using techniques in keeping with traditional Tuscan craftsmanship.

For spring/summer 2020 Il Bisonte introduces exciting colourways such as Mint, Gazpacho Red and Blueberry, which bring a vibrant aesthetic to this season’s leather goods offering. Highlights also include a new jacquard fabric showcasing the brand’s namesake animal in a Bison wave motif, featured across a variety of leather styles including the pictured designs.

This latest collection of bags, accessories and footwear stays true to the brand’s values of craftsmanship and artisanship, which have been integral to Il Bisonte ever since it was created half a century ago. GRC Il Bisonte, Via del Parione 31-33R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 215722, ilbisonte.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 80

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

If you’re searching for stylish swimwear and resortwear this summer, look no further than Oserée. Named after the French verb oser, meaning to dare, the brand showcases a bold aesthetic and its vibrant designs are created with the modern woman in mind. Spring/ summer 2020 sees the introduction of resortwear, spanning dresses, hats, bags and more, which perfectly complements the brand’s Made in Italy swimwear.

1970s-inspired one-pieces and bikinis are finished with puff sleeves, pearls and rhinestones, while the clothing range features lurex dresses and jumpsuits, silk gowns, matching crop-tops and shorts. With this latest collection Oserée brings its unique panache to beach and poolside attire. GRC Luisa Via Roma, Via Roma 19-21R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 906 4116, oseree.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 82

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ONE TO WATCH COMPLÉT

LOOK SHARP 2020 is a significant year for Brioni as it marks the Roman tailoring brand’s 75th anniversary. The spring/summer 2020 collection stays true to the label’s DNA, offering a wardrobe that moves from business to leisure with complete ease.

The range encompasses unlined blazers made from light wool, garment-dyed suits, shirts with landscape prints, leather trenches and moiré silk tuxedos. Brioni’s clean designs are presented in a range of quality fabrics, with hues ranging from neutral beige and brown to lilac and dark green. Sandals, loafers and espadrilles round out this ever-so-sleek collection.

This enduring luxury Italian menswear house continues to uphold a reputation for pure excellence and style. GRC Brioni, Via dei Condotti 21A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 3428, brioni.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 57

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Complét is an accessories label founded in 2013. Its bags are designed in Tel Aviv and produced in Italy, drawing on the country’s expertise in leather craftsmanship. Handbags are created around distinctive shapes and the Valery style stands out for its envelope-like design. Topped with a circular handle, it is available in three different sizes, from medium to micro. The spring/summer 2020 offering spans a wide range of shapes, materials and colours, and customers will find a hue to match every occasion, from classic browns and black to more eye-catching options such as shimmering foiled blue and powder pink.

With highlights including python-effect and denim versions, Complét’s bags will add a stylish finishing touch to any outfit. GRC Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 9138 7388, complet-o.com H FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 68

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A STEP AHEAD Italian footwear brand Gia Couture has teamed up with Danish influencer Pernille Teisbaek for spring/summer 2020. The result is a capsule collection that comprises three shoe styles - flip-flops, double strap sandals (pictured, €300) and thong mules (pictured, €345) - each available in five neutral colours ranging from off-white to dark brown.

The range showcases the top-quality craftsmanship that Gia Couture is renowned for and the soft leather footwear is expertly handmade by Florentine artisans. In this simple take on classic summer shoe styles, Teisbaek brings a Scandinavian feel to high-end Made In Italy footwear – a winning combination. GRC Gibot, Via Nomentana 457-473, 00162 Rome, +39 06 8620 7360, giacouture.it

Enhance your trip to Milan with city tour specialist Zani Viaggi, which offers coach trips that take in the best of Milan’s culture, art and fashion, as well as shopping tours to some of Italy’s finest outlets.

Services run from the city centre to shopping villages that showcase designer brands at discount prices. Destinations include Serravalle Designer Outlet, the largest outlet in Europe; Il Centro; Franciacorta Outlet Village; and Vicolungo The Style Outlets. Zani Viaggi can also take you across the border into Switzerland, to the FoxTown stores. Wherever you decide to go, Zani Viaggi will ensure you travel in style. SM Zani Viaggi, Milan Visitor Center, Largo Cairoli 18 (city centre) and Milano Centrale station, Ground Level, 20100 Milan, +39 02 867131, zaniviaggi.com Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

PHOTOS: (TOP) © LUIGI FIANO

TOP TOURS

36 | I N S TO R E

IN STORE: RINASCENTE Italy’s prestigious Rinascente department store is always high on the list of must-visit shopping destinations. Recently reopened after an 18-month renovation, the brand’s Turin location is one of the city’s highlights, as store manager Diana Valente tells Lucinda Turner

R

inascente has long been at the heart of Turin’s shopping experience and has occupied its position on Via Giuseppe Luigi Lagrange since 1973. In 2019, following renovation work that lasted a year and a half, the shop reopened as a modern, sophisticated and vibrant department store for the 21st century.

‘Turin needed a totally new Rinascente,’ store manager Diana Valente explains. ‘Bigger and better, it is perfect for a progressive public and a city whose stylistic hallmark has always been elegance and distinction.’

Rinascente worked with four renowned designers and architects to engineer the new space, and the expansion has added three new floors and doubled the space of its fashion, beauty and design offering. Architect Gianmatteo Romegialli shaped the project and designed the store’s façade and ground floor; the first and second floors were designed by Paolo Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Lucchetta; the basement and third floor were created by Fabio Fantolino; and David Lopez and Fanny Bauer were responsible for the fourth floor.

These leading contemporary designers have created a cutting-edge building that also reflects the heritage and history of both Rinascente and the beautiful city of Turin. ‘Rinascente’s mission statement has always been “For the city, with the city, in the city”,’ says Valente. ‘The new store is in line with the architectural and cultural excellence of the local area. It adds value to the pedestrian area of Via Giuseppe Luigi Lagrange and helps to elevate the prestige of a place adored by the people of Turin and tourists alike.’

The exterior of the store is among its most striking features. ‘The goal was to give the building a new architectural style by redesigning the Via Giuseppe Luigi Lagrange façade,’ she says. ‘The challenge was to create a new

I N S TO R E | 37

façade that was coherent with the surrounding architecture, while being practical and modern at the same time.’ Key materials selected to achieve this included classic travertine marble, reminiscent of stone used throughout the city. It is this respect for Turin’s heritage that Valente is truly proud of. ‘This is a building that forms a connection with the beautiful aesthetics of the city, that over time maintains a careful balance of the past and present,’ she explains.

The team behind the transformation has ensured that a visit to the store is an event in itself. ‘Walking inside the new Rinascente must first of all be an experience. It is possible to enjoy a good coffee, get lost in the shoe department, attend a personal appearance event and learn about the latest trends. And, of course, it is possible, if you like, to do some shopping,’ says Valente.

The shopping on offer here is truly remarkable. Top Italian labels such as Marni, Santoni and Bottega Veneta feature alongside international houses including Burberry and Marc Jacobs. The renovation of the ground floor, which features beauty, jewellery, accessories and food, took 193 days and it is now home to prestigious cosmetics brands such as Acqua di Parma and Tata Harper.

The basement covers 1,000 square metres and is focused on design and gourmet food. It offers everything you could possibly need for your home and has a deliberately retro aesthetic.

‘We have opted for materials and colour choices typical of the late 1960s and early 70s, such as decorative laminates and coloured glass blocks alongside black walnut wood,’ says Valente.

‘This is a perfect combination for creating a balanced and captivating environment, where the visitor is invited to slow down their rhythm

and take back their own time to create and recreate new style journeys.’

For those looking to relax and enjoy a meal during their visit, the Temakinho restaurant is a must. Set over the basement and ground floors, the Brazilian eatery offers a relaxing atmosphere and superb food. ‘The design pays homage to the Amazon rainforest and the marvellous creatures that live there. The menu includes international cuisine with a Brazilian flavour,’ explains Valente. ‘For lunch and dinner, you can enjoy petiscos – small dishes to be shared as an appetiser – as well as rolls, temaki, different types of tartare, ceviche and the original organic picanha steak. If you have a sweet tooth, you must try the tropical mochi as well as famous cakes like cheesecake and bolo prestigio, a typical Brazilian dessert made of chocolate and coconut. Temakinho offers the people of Turin an exotic and surprising alternative, where they can have new taste experiences.’

With so much going on in the store, which key areas should visitors ensure they explore?

‘The shoe department on the third floor is 250 square metres dedicated to footwear, and a destination of excellence for anyone who makes this accessory a distinctive element of their own personal style,’ Valente says. ‘And the food market and wine shop area in the basement is a place where it is possible to find a selection of the country’s best produce.’

If you are in the market for exquisite fashion or simply looking to satisfy your sweet tooth, Rinascente’s reimagined Turin store is certainly not to be missed.

Rinascente, Via Giuseppe Luigi Lagrange 15, 10100 Turin, +39 02 9138 7388, rinascente.it

The Green LiGhT PHOTO: Š gOrunway.cOm

From tropical prints to plantinspired accessories and natural, sustainable fabrics, Milan’s designers have gone green for spring/summer 2020, as Fani Mari reports

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As well as the colour green itself, designers have been inspired by nature and green sustainability initiatives Previous page: Versace spring/summer 2020

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

he season of growth and rebirth, spring is firmly associated with the colour green and for spring/summer 2020 the catwalks in Milan were filled with bold shades, verdant prints and even leaves and flowers as headpieces. As well as focusing on the hue itself, designers have been inspired by nature and green sustainability initiatives.

London-based trend forecaster WGSN has named Neo Mint as one of the top colours for 2020, explaining that the ‘optimistic’ and ‘gender-neutral’ shade ‘aligns science and technology with nature.’ The Pantone Colors of the Year for both 2019 and 2020 also reflect our current obsession with the state of the natural world: 2019’s Living Coral has given way to 2020’s Classic Blue, which Pantone describes as ‘evocative of the vast and infinite evening sky’.

With more and more people moving towards veganism and ‘climate emergency’ named Word of the Year by Oxford Dictionaries, it’s clear there will be an even greater level of concern over environmental issues in 2020.

A celebration of the beauty of flora, the defining moment in Milan for spring/summer 2020 had to be Versace’s updated take on its iconic tropical leaf-print dress. Worn by Jennifer Lopez at the Grammy Awards in 2000, the green dress famously drew so much attention online that Google created Google Images as a result of the vast number of searches for ‘Versace jungle dress’. Closing the

S H O P | 41

brand’s spring/summer 2020 show, the reboot caused just as big a stir in the fashion industry as it did when Lopez graced the red carpet in it almost 20 years ago.

Gucci showed a range of green tones for spring/summer 2020 under creative director Alessandro Michele. A nod to WGSN’s prediction, mint green was seen across suits, wide-legged trousers and chiffon shirts, blended with bright green polka-dot dresses, colour-blocked bomber jackets and satin suits for both men and women.

At Fendi, tropical floral prints were seen on high-shine jackets and miniskirts. The show – the first that Silvia Venturini Fendi and her team have held since the death of creative director Karl Lagerfeld – was inspired by the Above (from left): Jennifer Lopez closing the Versace catwalk show; Fendi, both spring/summer 2020

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Renowned for its signature zigzag knits, Missoni always promises a rainbow of colour and spring/summer 2020 was no exception.

While prints were balanced with understated tailoring, tropical greens and florals still made an appearance. Lightweight chiffon maxiskirts with impressionist-style florals and striped trousers in a variety of green hues were standout pieces. Like Risso, designer Angela Missoni also wanted to make an ecological statement and models carried Olafur Eliasson-designed Little Sun solar-powered lamps for the finale in honour of the Global Climate Strike.

Salvatore Ferragamo’s green looks offered a different take on the trend.

Light, floaty and printed with ivy-green Roman-inspired motifs on a yellow background, the brand’s perfect summer shirtdress was made to be paired with a bikini on holiday along the Italian Riviera.

Verdant greens formed the palette for knitted minishorts, leather trenches, crocheted minidresses and off-the-shoulder maxis.

Elsewhere, deep maroon prints with images Above (from left): Marni spring/summer 2020; models carried Olafur Eliasson Little Sun solar-powered lamps in the finale of the Missoni catwalk show this season

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

sunsets and sunrises of a balmy Italian summer. Complete with matching bucket hats and shoes, these head-to-toe looks stood out in the otherwise neutralthemed show.

Fendi’s prints were subtle in comparison to Marni’s vivid florals, where the vibrant show featured green and blue colour-blocked looks, deconstructed gowns, tropics-meets-forest prints and – the cherry on top – huge cheese plant leaves worn as hats. Creative director Francesco Risso gave sustainability a cool edge for spring/summer 2020 with a collection centred around organic cotton, upcycled textiles and re-used leathers.

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM PHOTO: XXXXXXX

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of plant life were emblazoned on jumpsuits and men’s shirts and trousers, extending the natural-colour trend beyond purely green garments.

Luisa Spagnoli’s unique interpretation of the jungle theme was inspired by Spanish dancers’ outfits and blended deep forestgreen silk maxis with fiery-red headscarves.

Blumarine pursued an overtly feminine take on nature, including delicate florals, ruffles and chiffon. Its green brocade suit and lace minidress will cover all your summer outfit needs. Proving that androgynous looks can still be feminine, Annakiki played with safari tones for its khaki statement dress, oversized leather blazer and forest-green suit.

It may have come as a surprise that some elements of Milan Fashion Week embodied a strong stance on climate change, but it is a welcome direction for designers and consumers alike. From brands directly referencing green issues to collections showcasing tropical tones, the message from Milan this season is clear – we need to effect positive environmental change before it’s too late

•

Above (from left): Luisa Spagnoli; Blumarine, both spring/ summer 2020

Style With

SubStance Italy’s luxury fashion houses are turning to education as a means to support local communities, society and culture. Ginger Rose Clark profiles the big names with big hearts

PHOTO: FEDERICA FIORAVANTI

Above: Polimoda’s 2019 Supernature fashion show

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hilanthropy in Italy’s fashion industry is nothing new. Many of the country’s leading luxury brands have contributed to the restoration of famous landmarks, from Bottega Veneta’s support of the flooddamaged Saint Mark’s basilica in Venice to the Bulgari-funded refurbishment of Rome’s Spanish Steps and the Fendi for Fountains project, also focused on the Italian capital. Some labels have also created foundations in order to donate to various charitable causes, such as Ermenegildo Zegna’s Fondazione Zegna. Recently another altruistic trend has come to the fore, with brands opting to invest in education.

In August 2019, Polimoda fashion school announced it was partnering with Missoni on a master’s degree programme in knitwear design starting in January 2020. The Florencebased institution believes that working with

prominent luxury brands is fundamental for students, as Polimoda’s director Danilo Venturi explains: ‘Partnering with fashion brands allows students to learn through hands-on teaching. If you want to work in fashion, you have to learn directly from the industry.

Forget about the books – our teachers, mentors and brand partnerships help students learn from the best. Closing the gap between education and the industry is what Polimoda stands for.’

By joining forces, luxury brands and fashion institutes can also help establish a skilled workforce for the future. ‘Designing fabrics for clothing is something completely different from making a dress or garment that comes directly from a knitting machine,’ explains creative director Angela Missoni in a promotional video for the new course. ‘We need young designers who specialise in knitwear.’

Above: Angela Missoni, the brand’s creative director, has partnered with Polimoda for a knitwear design programme

PHOTO: FEDERICA FIORAVANTI

Education is also a way of giving back to the community for Italy’s luxury brands

PHOTOS: (TOP) EIkONA.Eu/GuIDO FuA’; (BOTTOM) SANTE CASTIGNANI

S H O P | 47

Students receive technical instruction from Polimoda and practical support from Missoni, and the mutual benefits of this synergy are clear. ‘Luxury brands are invested in us and we trust them to provide our students with the opportunity to listen and treasure the words of their inspirational contemporary leaders,’ says Venturi. ‘Luxury brands believe in our students as much as we do and see their potential.’ By proactively investing in the education of future generations, Italy’s luxury brands are contributing to their own longevity and creating a cycle of constant renewal.

Education can also be a way of giving back to the community. Brunello Cucinelli, founder of the eponymous cashmere label, has restored the medieval town of Solomeo where the brand is based. Passionate about philosophy, Cucinelli has adopted a humanist approach to Solomeo’s development and the town includes a school of arts and crafts as part of its Foro delle Arti (forum of the arts), in addition to the brand’s factories and workshops. Inspired by 19th-century visionaries such as John Ruskin and William Morris, the school offers courses ranging from tailoring, pattern cutting Above (from top): Brunello Cucinelli in a tailoring class at the school of arts and crafts; a view of Solomeo, the hometown of the Brunello Cucinelli brand

and knitwear to gardening, horticulture and masonry. The brand’s website states this gives employees ‘the opportunity to understand and appreciate the true value of craftsmanship as an art form. They have become enthusiastic and excited about their jobs.’

The label believes that the benefits of education for employees go ‘hand in hand with the glorious revival of our craftsmanship, thus attaching moral and economic dignity to work.’

This ethos is clearly evidenced by the website itself, which focuses as much on the founder’s philosophy and Solomeo as it does on its collections. Social responsibility and patronage of this kind add value in many ways: not only does it enhance employees’ well-being, sense of purpose and loyalty, but it also strengthens Above: Prada spring/summer 2020

brand identity and is an appealing feature for many consumers.

Prada has joined forces with MIP Politecnico di Milano and Neoma Business School to offer the International Masters in Luxury Management, known as IMLux. The 12-month course is designed to teach students the ins and outs of working in luxury with the ultimate goal of landing a managerial role.

While the IMLux course is very much about business, it also offers deeper insight into the cultural aspects of luxury – during a term spent in Italy, students will, for example, learn about ‘the flavour of Made in Italy excellence.’

Polimoda is also actively engaged in positioning Italy, particularly Florence, within a global cultural context. ‘Polimoda

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

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is Florentine but operates on a worldwide scale,’ Venturi says. ‘Because of this, we’re continuously building bridges between Florence and cities all over the world.’ He believes that fashion education has its own particular role in this process: ‘Florence is a city of art; fashion is a cultural industry that feeds on art and can also produce works of art.

For us, this is cultural tourism. It’s not based on passive exploitation of cities; instead, it puts cities at the centre of a debate around the kind of future we want for the next generations.’

By making education a priority, Italy’s most prestigious luxury brands and fashion institutions are preserving Italy’s cultural legacy and upholding the world-class reputation of the Made in Italy standard

PHOTO: (RIGHT) © GORUNWAY.COM

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Above (from left): Brunello Cucinelli; Missoni, both spring/summer 2020

H g l i y H DESiRABlE Italy has a long heritage of exquisite fine jewellery creations and now the country’s innovative houses are raising their games even further. Lucinda Turner explores the rise of contemporary Italian high jewellery

PHOTO: CESARE GUALDONI

I

taly is home to many exceptional jewellery ateliers, from long-established boutiques on Florence’s historic streets to the luxury brands of Milan’s Via Montenapoleone. Italian jewels are always high on every discerning visitor’s shopping list and in recent years there has been an increased demand for high jewellery from the country’s leading labels.

Most clients easily recognise the distinction between costume jewels and fine jewellery, while high jewellery is comparable to a designer’s couture collection, offering another level of quality, attention to detail and luxury in each and every one-off piece. The stones used are even more brilliant and techniques Left: Sabbadini boutique, Milan

more complicated and intricate, making it the ultimate combination of craftsmanship and art.

The market has soared in recent years, with customers willing to pay six-figure sums for these stunning, unique creations. Many high jewellery collections are presented biannually in Paris during Haute Couture Fashion Week by some of the biggest jewellers in the world.

And for those in the know, Italy is where the true treasures lie.

Buccellati, one of Milan’s most prestigious and historic jewellers, has been a beacon of the Italian jewellery market for the past century.

The house has been producing its classic, ornate designs in Milan since 1919 and has created 91

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These key Italian brands offer the extra level of exclusivity that the modern high jewellery market demands a new diamond cut to celebrate the centenary, which will feature in its high jewellery pieces.

The Buccellati-cut diamond has 57 facets, took over a year to develop and is cut to an exactingly strict ratio in order to optimise the amount of light reflected, offering the extra level of exclusivity that the high jewellery market demands. This exquisite stone is placed at the heart of Buccellati’s most beautiful earrings, necklaces, watches and even gold iPhone cases. The brand expertly balances the old and the new, drawing on inspiration from Greek and Roman mythology and classical Italian art, while also embracing the modern Millennial consumer – who is crucial to today’s high jewellery market.

Delfina Delettrez-Fendi is a jeweller who knows more than most about the Millennial jewellery market, as she is part of this financially powerful generation herself.

When she founded her eponymous brand in 2007, her original idea was to bring a sense of fun and punk spirit to the fine jewellery market. Following overwhelming demand from her customers for bespoke and one-off pieces, however, Delettrez decided to make the move into high jewellery. The brand has now

stopped using semi-precious stones completely and instead focuses solely on 14-carat gold, platinum, white diamonds and gems such as manganite and tsavorite. Inspired by the idea of high jewellery as an art form, the new Tourbillon collection showcases pieces that move with the precision of scientific instruments. ‘I’m intrigued by mechanical inventions,’ Delettrez told WWD. ‘I really enjoy creating jewels where elements, for example pearls, are not only decorative but have a specific function.’

While the world of high jewellery is often viewed as an exclusive, invitation-only club, Delettrez came to it with a different approach.

‘When I started I had fun breaking rules, not to be intentionally rebellious but because I didn’t know the rules of jewellery,’ she stated.

By offering a fresh ethos and developing her brand slowly from fine jewellery to high jewellery, Delettrez has been able to expand her customer base and attract a younger audience to the elite world of high jewellery.

Gucci and Armani, two of Italy’s biggest fashion houses, both launched their first high jewellery collections in 2019. Both brands are renowned for their luxury goods and the

Above (from top): three designs from the Buccellati cut-diamond collection; Gucci’s first high jewellery collection, Hortus Deliciarum

PHOTO: (TOP) © MaTTeO PranDOni/BFa.cOM

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addition of high jewellery seems like a logical and natural progression. Each house already has an established loyal customer base and global audience, eager to discover every stunning new product. Gucci describes its first foray into the market as a ‘modern evolution of the precious universe that high jewellery encapsulates’ and it is this modern interpretation that customers are ready and waiting for.

Milanese jeweller Sabbadini has been creating classic jewellery since 1940, yet today it is most famous for its contemporary high jewellery. ‘Women are always trying to find something different after they have purchased the classics, such as a wedding ring or traditional diamond earrings,’ says CEO Pierandrea Sabbadini. By employing cuttingedge techniques and materials such as titanium, ceramics and carved stones in its collections, the house has developed a loyal following of customers looking for the luxury of high jewellery with the eye-catching quirkiness of costume jewellery.

The appetite for high jewellery has increased exponentially over the past decade

and according to Sabbadini a successful jeweller must master several markets. ‘I think that today, to be a good jeweller, you have to have pieces that range from €3,000 up to an infinite amount for those pieces with very important stones,’ he explains.

Each of these Italian houses offers more accessible fine jewellery collections alongside high jewellery. This is key to their enduring success as it provides a point of entry into the market for customers, and allows them to discover these extraordinary pieces. As the global jewellery market continues to expand and cater to every taste and budget, Italy’s leading contemporary jewellers are reinventing high jewellery in a thoroughly modern way

Above (from top): Delfina Delettrez’s Tourbillon collection presentation; Sabbadini yellow diamonds earrings

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PHOTO: THegrimfandangO/sHuTTersTOck.cOm

ITALY GUIDE

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Italy with a look at its must-visit destinations, from a leading Venetian eyewear specialist to the beautiful UNESCO World Heritage Site of Alberobello (pictured). Start with our recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/italy

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VIA B E LSI A N

PEUTEREY ●

CARROZZE48 ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● TIE SHOP ●

FIO RI

MARTINO MIDALI ●

VIA MA RIO DE’

I CINQUE ●

QUETZALCOATL CHOCOLATIER ●

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

VIA FRAT TINA

● JODIEL

LA ZUCCA ● STREGATA ● ANGELO CAPUTI

● CASHMERITALY

● #71 STORE ● IL PORTONE

● MARISA PADOVAN ● LA PEONIA

OFFICINA PROFUMO FARMACEUTICA DI SANTA MARIA ● NOVELLA

VIA CO ND OT TI

Via Borgognona Via delle Carrozze

VIA BORGOGNONA

VIA B O RGOGNONA

ADORE ● VERONICA TOSCANO ● LABORATORIO OLFATTIVO ● DARIO VIS ●

VIA BE L SIA NA

globalblue.com

RR OZ ZE

VI A DE LL E CA

RR OZ ZE

VI A DE LL E CA

VIA FRATTIN A

VI A F R ATT INA

VIA CO ND OT TI

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VIA DEL LA CRO

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VIA CO ND OT TI

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VIA DE LL A CR

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VIA DE LL A CR

58 | G U I D E

VIA B EL S I A N

HANG LOOSE ●

A

Via Belsiana & Via Mario de’ Fiori GIANNA MELIANI ● CASATA DEREVES ● CORNER ● L'ANELLERIA ●

● LOPEZ WATCHES ● LA PIE VOLEUSE ● ALPHA STUDIO

● CORNER ● JAJA CAMICERIA ● VERTECCHI

● LUIGI BORRELLI NIA OUTLET ●

A

V IA BE L SIA N

VIA DEL LA CRO ● BIARRITZ CE ● HOUSE OF LEATHER ● C.U.C.I.N.A.

FIORENTINO ●

ROZ ZE

BONAFONI ●

● CHOSES

● GIOIELLERIA MARONI

● WOLFORD ● MARTINO MIDALI

’FI OR I

VIA DE L CO RS

V I A DEL LE CAR

● ZOPPIA

CE

VIA MA RIO DE

BELSIANA 91 ● ANCARANI ● BORGHINI ●

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

O

VIA DEL LA CRO

MORO & ● OGNISSANTI TIZIANA ● MODIANO

● BL GIOIELLI

Piazza Di Spagna

● MASTROLEO ● HAWKERS

VIA CO N D OT TI

VIA CO ND OT TI

● FENDI

VIA BE LS IAN

A

MA

VIA FRAT TINA

MADE IN ITALY ●

V I A DELLA VITE

TARTUFI ● MILLERIGHE ● VISION OPTIKA ● BLACK BOX ● SUPERDRY ● FUMIS ● TEACH IT EASY ●

DA

WATCH HOUSE ●

OPAG AN

V IA D E L G A

● MERCANTE DI FIORI ● VANITA ● I AM ● BOUTIQUE CENTRAL

VI A DI PR

MBE

LI

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● LA CORONA

CEL

V IA F R ATTINA

A'BIDDIKKIA ● OUTFITFABI ● BALLERINETTE ● VIA DEL GAMBERO 20 ● PITRAN ● VALAMBERT ● FRANCESCHINI ●

Piazza Mignanelli

DUE

● LAURA BIAGIOTTI ● NYA FIRENZE ● KIDS AROUND

HAVAIANAS ●

VIA BORGOGNONA

D EI

DANIELE ANCARANI ●

VIA

VIA BORGOGNONA

● DOMUS CALZATURE

SAVOY ●

’FI OR I

VIA DE L CO RS

O

PEUTEREY ●

MALO ● ATELIER-EME ●

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

ALBERTA FERRETTI ●

VIA MA RIO DE

DAL SARTO ● PICCO GIOIELLI ●

Global Blue Retailer

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VIA DEI DUE MACELLI I-D SKI ● N●

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

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VIA

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●J AC

ME

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N DA R D INA T TI UCK ● MI G I L LY IÙ SHO ● P● L M C AT E T T I E I C A ● ELL MI G I PA U O D 'A U U ' ● R L& SHA IA ● RK ● LA SOR GEN TE ●

VIA DEI DUE MACELLI

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Via dei Due Macelli

S H O P | 59

BABINGTONS TEA ROOMS For 127 years, Babingtons Tea Rooms has offered a slice of England in the heart of Rome.

It is the perfect place for travel-weary visitors to relax and enjoy a reviving hot drink and delicious, lovingly made baked goods. Opened in 1893 by Anna Maria Babington and Isabel Cargill, the tearoom was an immediate success and continues to charm tea connoisseurs with its signature blends. Today, Cargill’s greatgrandchildren Chiara Bedini and Rory Bruce produce delicious tea creations and have established the Babingtons for Darjeeling project to support plantation workers and their families. With such an impressive history, it’s no surprise that the store has welcomed royalty, celebrities and politicians. Its logo is a kitten, in honour of the tearoom’s resident cat Mascherino who lived there for many years. FM

Babingtons Tea Rooms, Piazza di Spagna 23, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6027, babingtons.com

Piazza di Spagna & Via Bocca di Leone

VIA BEL SIA NA

DEI MONTI ● DIESE L

L A T R I N I TÀ

VIA LE DEL

● VERSA CE

● PHILIPPE MODEL

Babingtons Tea Rooms H

● FURLA

CAMPER ● DIOR ● K-WAY ● SERMONETA ●

KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE

● ACQUA DI PARMA ● IWC

Global Blue Lounge

● FARMACIA TRINITA’ DEI MONTI

GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE-MUSEUM

● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI

VIA BORGOGNONA

A

CafŽ

IN

A

Featured In This Issue

IST

● RIMOWA ● CROMIA ● PIER CARANTI

IA N

Piazza Mignanelli

GO R

ALEXANDER ●

● VALENTINO

AS

Global Blue Lounge

BRIC'S ●

GRE

● BLUGIRL ● GENNY ● ULTURALE LA BOTTEGA ● DELL’ARGENTO ● BLUEMINT ● THE MERCHANT OF VENICE

VI

Place Of Interest

E B A ST I A N EL LO

V IA

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● TINA ● PURE ● BARBA ● APM MONACO ●

VIA BOCCA DI L E O N E

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●

Piazza Di Spagna

LONGCHAMP ● HUBLOT ● MISSONI ● MONCLER ●

VIA CO ND OT TI

FRETTE ●

HERMÈS ●

VIA CO ND OT TI

ESCADA ●

● ISAIA

DOLCE & GABBANA ● JAEGERLECOULTRE ● EFRATI ● LOEWE ● EMILIO PUCCI ● CHANEL ●

O

CA RR OZ ZE

VI A DI SA N S

UIN

● BLU GIRL

LORIBLU ●

OC E

DI CASTRO ●

VIA DE LLA CR

● CARNEVALI AMINA ● RUBINACCI ● ANGELETTI ● GIORGIA R

BAB

LA PERLA ● VIA DE LLE

● IL PESCIOLINO ROSSO

DEL

MALLONI ● BERNARD DELETTREZ ● SPAZIO MANASSEI GIOIELLI ●

MENICHINI ●

OC E

● FLEUR LUXURY LIVING ● ANITA ROMANI

VIA

VIA DE LLA CR

V IA BOCC A DI L E ON E

SUITE 76 ● GIULIA DI PROPERZIO GIOIELLI ●

60 | G U I D E

Via del Corso (North)

HAUSMANN & CO

● BO

T TA

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DE LB

DI R

VIA

SE

UIN

STEFANO ● RICCI

AB

VIA

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IN

SH

AL

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DAVID HAMILTON ● GRATIE ● MR.BOOTS ●

VIA DEL CORSO

BERNABEI ● KINZLY ● LU ●

RS

●Z ● ALFIERI

VIA DELL ' OCA

ORIGINAL ● MARINES ANEL LA V I A DELL A FONT

VIA DEL CORSO

FACTORY V IA DEL ●S VA N OUTLET ● TA G G IO R IP A R T O R ENS E IA FOSSIL ● THE NORTH FACE ●

IO C A

N O VA

BATA ● SEPHORA ● MAC ● KIKO ●

NIKE ● PON

FOOT LOCKER ● TEF

IC I

REDFORD ● GAP ●

VIA DEL CORSO

DEI

BERNABEI ADELE ALTMAN SUBDUED KRUDER

● SISLEY

SKECHERS ●

V IA

● ● ● ●

VIA DI GESÙ E MARIA

VIA DEL CORSO

FLORENCE ●

N TO N

● KIPLING

● DUNE

DOGO' ●

V IA A

LUXURY OUTLET NEROGIARDINI LUSH TRIUMPH AS ROMA STORE TRITONE 47

● GUSCIO STORE ● MARCO

AW LAB ● NUVOLARI ● OTTICA SOLE ●

HAVAIANAS ●

● ● ● ● ● ●

Largo dei Lombardi

V I A D I S A N G I ACO M O

● ● ● ● ● ● ●

VANS ELISABETTA FRANCHI PERLA INGLOT MC2 SOLARIS COCCINELLE

● ● ● ●

MORELLATO ALCOTT YVES ROCHER PEPE JEANS

● ● ● ● ●

BERNABEI SIMONA INTIMISSIMI UOMO DA VINCI FRANCESCHINI

Offering statement timepieces from leading international names, such as Rolex or Patek Philippe, to modern and original designs from exclusive Italian labels, including Giuliano Mazzuoli, Hausmann & Co has all your horological needs covered. Founded in 1794, the brand is renowned for excellence and quality, and prides itself on superb customer service.

As well as offering stunning jewellery and vintage timepieces, the store features watch winders from Scatola del Tempo, clocks from Erwin Sattler and Hausmann & Co’s own popular range of branded watches. FM Hausmann & Co, Via del Corso 406, 00186 Rome, +39 06 687 1501, hausmann-co.com

VIA DEI GRECI

VIA VITTORIA ● TIM ● MONDO WIND ● SLAM ● INTIMISSIMI ● SUITE BENEDICT ● STROILI ● CALVIN KLEIN ● PANDORA LUXURY EYEWEAR ● OUTLET ● LEGAMI ● CHOPIN ● CARMENS

VIA DELLA CROCE

CAMPER ● BRANDY & MELVILLE ●

LL

NO

VIA

DE

CALZEDONIA DECCIO CARLO FORNARINA GOLDEN POINT ASOLE E BOTTONI LEVI'S DIESEL GUESS

VI A DELLE CARROZZE

● TWIN-SET ● ZARA ● ESOTICA

H&M ●

VIA DEL CORSO

FENDI ●

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

VIA BELSIANA

NCI EO

VIA DEL CORSO

GEOX ●

● LIU JO

V IA C O

N D O T TI

● SWAROVSKI ● FALCONERI ● STROILI ORO ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● NARA CAMICIE ● KIKO VIA BOR GOG

NON A

● LUCCHESI S

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

PHOTOs: MARCO RAVAsINI

ISHOP ●

S H O P | 61

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

Via del Corso (Central) VIA V I TT O RIA

● LIU JO

CHI MAS

ER G A

● WYCON ● DISNEY STORE ● GRILLI VIA D EL LA

V ITE

CELIO ●

VI C OL O S C I

AR R A

● OMAI NOW OR NEVER

LE GIO R OM A

NO

V IA DE

VI A DEL C OL

● ETY ● OTTICA CANOVAI

ILTÀ LL'U M

V IA SS . AP O STO L I

● DOUGLAS ● DOPPELGANGER ● EDAS ● SUITE BENEDICT

● MINERAL

VICOLO DEL PIOMBO

● OUTLET ● MONSANTO ● TEBE ● LEVIATAN ● SALOMÈ ● LE GROUP ● ALLENBY STORE ● ALCOTT ● CLASS ● RIENZI

P I AZZA DEI SANTISSIM I APOSTOLI

Featured In This Issue

VIA DEL CORSO

TIM ● X CORSI ● FIFTY FIFTY ●

SCHEGGE ● V I C O LO D ORIA

VIA DI SANTA MARIA IN V I A

A

L' I M P DEL

HETT I

VIA D I S A N M A R CELLO

V IA L ATA

OYSHO ●

● B R ACC I A L I N I ● CLASS DAMIANO ● PRESTA ● BOGGI

COCCINELLE ●

BERSKA ●

BE TWEEN ●

VIA DEL CORSO

Galleria Alberto Sordi

VIA MARC O MING

I

VIA DEL CORSO

AU DIA

CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●

V I A SA N C L

● ZARA

TIN CA

GUTTERIDGE ● MIRIADE ● YAMAMAY ●

RT ITE

V I A DE L L E M U RAT T E

BARONE ● TE

I AD VI VI A D E L CA RAV ITA

● TISSOT ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ● CALZEDONIA ● MANGO ● SWATCH ● VODAFONE ● PIKOLINOS ● MISS SIXTY

HOYA ●

P I E TR A

VATURI ● LA CONCERIA ●

N MO

Piazza di San Silvestro

DAN JOHN ●

RES

ZUIKI ● VI A D I

VIA DI S ANTA M A RIA IN VIA

MOOD ● ROBERTO ANTICOLI ●

● MR CHRISTMAS

Piazza del Parlamento

V IA

AUDEMARS ● PIGUET

TWO WAY ●

TIM ●

NON

LUXURY OUTLET ●

Place Of Interest

● SAINT LAURENT

ZIO

● SARTORIA ROSSI ● FURLA ● MASSIMO DUTTI

VIA BOR GOG

● NYX ● INTIMISSIMI UOMO ● TEZENIS ● PARFOIS ● MARC O’POLO ● COLONNA ● LUISA SPAGNOLI

V I A DEL L E C ON V E

V I A D E L PARL AM E NTO

Piazza Colonna

AR

Galleria Piazza Colonna Alberto Sordi

VIA DEL CORSO

INTIMISSIMI ●

OM

GALLERIA ALBERTO SORDI

● POLO RALPH LAUREN ● YAMAMAY ● OTTICA EFRATI ● ALDO

VIA DEL CORSO

PUMA ●

● CARPISA ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● NARA CAMICIE ● KIKO A

I

V IA F R AT T INA

RAY-BAN ● MR CHRISTMAS ● BENETTON ● DAVID HAMILTON ● CORNER ●

VI A IN LU C I N A

N D OT T

● SWAROVSKI ● YAMAMAY

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA DEL CORSO

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

H HAUSMANN & CO ●

MP

MARINA MILITARE ●

V IA C O

I

SALMOIRAGHI E VIGANO' ●

CA

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ●

VIA B

AD

VI

● TWIN-SET ● SEVEN DOORS ● ESOTICA

VIA

BONPOINT ●

VIA DELLE CARROZ Z E

VIA B ELSIANA

ELL

AESOP ●

● DIESEL ● GUESS

● BOTTEGA VENETA

PIQUADRO ● LA FELTRINELLI ●

AC

● GOLDEN POINT ● ASOLE E BOTTONI

● PASQUALE BRUNI

Via del Corso (South)

● FERRARI M FENDI ●

TO

DELVAUX ● CRUCIANI & BELLA ●

VIA BELSIANA

VIA

H&M ●

VIA DEL CORSO

L EO N C I N O

OLIVER PEOPLES ●

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

CAMPER ●

EL

POMELLATO ●

● CALZEDONIA ● DECCIO CARLO

GEOX ●

● SPADA

CASADEI ●

VIA DELLA CROCE

ISHOP ●

BRANDY & MELVILLE ●

VIA DEL CORSO

LOUIS VUITTON ●

BU R R Ò

Largo dei Lombardi

● MONDO WIND ● MARELLA ● INTIMISSIMI ● EFFETTI ● MARC O’POLO ● ET MOI ● ATHLETES WORLD ● LA 3 STORE ● NAU ● CHOPIN ● DAVID SADDLER

VI A DE ’

GAP ●

VIA DEL CORSO

REDFORD ●

PU

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CO

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CR

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V I CO L

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G A LL I N A CC I O

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VIA V

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ALTA MODA FURS ● CIR CORREDI ● CHANTAL ●

IS

S DAN JHON ● A V I VESTO PAZZO ● MÉLIE ● DELSEY ● GATTEGNA ● ALLEMBY 101 ● UNITED COLORS OF BENETTON ●

CLARKS ● SOUVENIR SHOP ● COMPAGNIA ITALIANA ● WHITE MOOD ● ESTHER ●

EL

LI

MICHAEL F ● SEPHORA ●

AC

JOELA ●

EM

A

DE

LL

EQ

TT UA

● PINOCCHIO

RO

FO

● SAN DRO FERRON E

VI

LL A PA

AN NT

L B OC CA

● DOPPELGANGER

● ADELE ALTMAN

V I A DE

CASUCCIO ● & SCALERA

● MAX & CO ● R.BAZZOCCHI

● SAMSONITE

● PRONOVIAS

V IA DE

NE TT E

RI A

E

CC IO

Department Store

EL

Via del Tritone

AC

Piazza Fontana di Trevi

EM

IA

DE

ST

IA N

NC

I DU

NE TT ER

V IA

SI

OR

RA

DE

● OVS INDUSTRY

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MOUNTAIN ● AFFAIRS STORE V IA DE

● MELLUSO

● GIOIELLERIA

● MUJI

● STONEFLY

A

EG

AF

ND

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VIA JOELA ● CLASS ●

Rinascente

BOX 51 ●

DI CORI ●

MR MUZIO ● TRITONE 47 ●

● SAXON'S

● SB LEATHER SHOP

VI

GR

A

VI

NI CI

UC PP CA

I DE

VI

AD

ELL

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V I A DI PROPAGAN FI OR I

VIA POL I

V IA

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● OVS INDUSTRY

G A LL I N A CC I O

R IO DÈ

● REMAX

VI A

DE

V I A D E G L I AV I G N O N E S I

MOUNTAIN ● AFFAIRS STORE

A

V IA RAS ELL

A

VI A RA S ELL

FUSARO ● VODAFONE ● WIND ● TIGER ● OD STORE ● SPADA ● ALTARIVA ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ● DOUGLAS ● ANNA VIRGILI ● G.GAZZARRINI ●

Piazza di San Claudio

VIA

CLASS ●

Rinascente

O DEL

DA VI A M A

● IKEA

BARBERINI FONTANA DI TREVI Piazza Barberini

VIA D EL TRITON E

Metro

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Retailer

V IA DI S A NTA MARIA IN VIA

VIA DEL CORSO

● SE T TIMIO MIELI

LAR G O CHIG I

VIA D EL T RITONE

● MACRON

● MEDICI ● GERARD

VIA DEL CORSO

Galleria Alberto Sordi

LE CAS E V I A DI CAP O

RO

O R TA DEL M

V IA D E L P O Z Z E T TO

'A

NT I SA

VIA D

● BEDETTI VISION OPTIKA ●

Piazza di San Silvestro

LE CAS E V I A DI CAP O DE A ME RC E

VIA DE LL

T ECH I T E A SY ● LA ZUCCA STREGATA ● STONEFLY ● NAPAPIJRI ● N9VE ● NEW BALANCE ● TIMBERLAND ●

O

N CL AU D I

V IA D EI S A

VI TE VI A DE LL A

V I CO L

62 | G U I D E

Via del Tritone, Piazza di San Silvestro, Via di San Claudio & Via delle Convertite

64 | G U I D E

MILAN Piazza San Babila, Corso Matteotti & Via Bigli Corso Venezia & Corso Europa

VI

RA I I M TA ON LIA DI N I BI N O DI P DE S DI P TIC ET PE C BIG INA LU A TIN ND UL LI R A M C A L C A R E N T I ●● VIA VI M ENT OL T ● TT IL E I OR M M O SA N OR ●● AT C IO IA A ● O M IM 'S ● R AR NP ● A CH S V IA TH ES VI TO VI UN I ● M EN ● ● NE T BE BOL RE IN L W H NC OT DE ES E FL SIR I ● O TI BE T W E X E ● CA R X O VE NA OD ● Ta NE RD ● LI ● & F r tu V ZI I ● fi EL F O FA R N O R I A N A ● IG rien RN M IE I ● O A A S AC M ● M ds E R IL ET IA RO A ND ● TI NO ’A BE MA DO ● NT RT LL LC SA O O A DO E& FE NI VI LC ST ● G E& D AB A● Ba BA GA OL r NA ● ARMAN I CASA FL BB CE & M a ● r ti AV A N G ● STONE ISLAND KIDS A A n I O NE ● ANTON ELLI FIRENZ E CA BAR BBA i RO N ST BI NA ● ALFIER I ST.JOH N GI ER EL ER ● AR O LA E ● ● WOLFO RD DI GIA NI N R ● I P DO ● GAGÀ MILAN O JU DIN LC HILI NI ● ROY ROGER S OR I ● E & PP ● GA PLE ● DIEGO M IN BB ● ULTIMA EDIZIO NE ● AN M O ● EMPRE SA W R E CO A ● OO SC S ATION NOMIN ● LR HI ● IC ● ● CHRIST OFLE H CR ● SON JACKER ● OM VILLA NECCHI ● BEATR ICE B IA ● CAMPIGLIO ● RED VALEN TINO H ZA OY O M R A LI S E ● CO V I A H O ● FLO S ● N NT A E I● O N FO RT CO R S O M

A

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CO

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MA RZ I AL EM

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● RONCATO

RI N

L A R G O CO R S IA D E I

Pavé

D RO

RV A

V IA

A

TA R I

BOGGI ●

CE

● B&B ITALIA

● MHWAY

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● LIBERO MILANO ● NATUZZI ● CASSINA

RIO

RI

GERVASONI ●

Brian & Barry Building San Babila

● GALLO ● SMOKE

V IA

PA

RO

RS

O

CA

V I A PAT

● MARGHERITA ● JUVENTUS STORE

CORSO EUROPA ● EMPORIO CASA

I T TA L A ●

ARTEMIDE ● F O N TA N A A R T E ●

EC

CO

O

● S U I T S U P P LY ● ICF ● SA N BA BIL A GIOIEL LI ● M A Z ZO L A RI

TO

AB

COLOMBO STYLE ● LUXURY LIVING ● FENDI CASA ●

JOAQUIN BERAO ●

I

IAN

’O R ALL

VI

PAUL TAYLOR ● MYPOS ●

● GUESS V IA BORG O G NA

NORTH SAILS ● NBA ● LUXURY TIMBERLAND ● LIVING ● TRUSSARDI JEANS ● STONE FLY ● MERITALIA ●

DEL MARE ●

RV

AM

T RO

MILANO OFFICIAL ● STORE

P IE

Piazza San Carlo

AVIREX ●

SE

DE PA D O VA ●

SAN BABILA

● LEGO ● SALMOIRAGHI VIGANÒ ● SPADA ● RAY-BAN ● FLORSHEIM ● BROSWAY Piazza ● BOGGI San Babila ● NESPRESSO ● BALDININI TREND ● MAZZOLARI ● CAMICISSIMA ● VANNUCCI ● DIESEL

INTER STORE MILANO ● BOGGI ● MIROR ●

II

ND

LU CE PL AN ●

SAN

N

EO TT I

● ESCADA ● JUST CAVALLI

● UNIFOR ● RODO ● MORONI GOMMA

V IA

LO

MA

BOSS STORE ● ROBERTO FESTA ●

Sant'Ambroeus Bar

MAZZOLARI ● TIMBERLAND ● P.70 H TUMI ●

PA O

IO E

SA

E

● BORBONESE

SA N

RSO

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VI A

ON

HARMONT & BLAINE ●

FERUTDIN ZAKIROV ●

CO RS O MATT

VIA

CO

T V IT

DODO ● FABBRICA PELLETTERIE MILANO ●

LE

LI

PO

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NA

AB I

DE MATTIA ● PASABAHCE ● PIKENZ ● JECKERSON ● GRAVATI ● SARA GIUNTI ● ALVIERO MARTINI ●

RR

EU

VI

● ANTICHITÀ PIVA & C.

Piazza Meda

A

OS RG

BO A

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A

VI

● NELLA LONGARI ● ULTURALE ● BEHOUSE ● D MAGAZINE ● ASPESI

. VE VIA P

TO NA

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● BIGLI 24 ● CODECASA GIOIELLI LA CARAMELLA ● D'ORO CLOTH ● DORMEUIL

SE

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SP

SP

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Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

Restaurant

Bar

CafŽ

Metro

66 | G U I D E

IA

I

DI

SS

NI

ET

O

DI

PO

RE

AI

BU

O

CO

VI

VI

● SAN PIETRO MILANO

AL

AL

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OS

EN

EN

DOUGLAS ● PERSONA ● ALTIERI ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

BU

OV

O

RI

AA

LE

KIKO ● PEPE JEANS ●

RS

IO

TO

VIA

Piazza Santa Francesca Romana

S

AN

ST

IT

AT I

● F.LLI SOLENNE GIOIELLI

ER

EG

EG

IN

IN

AG

AG

IO

IO

VA N

VA N

NA

NA

● YANKEE CANDLE

● MEXTON

CO

BA

EV

AS

DMAIL ● BIALETTI ● I AM ● ● NOVE25 GAMESTOP ● ● PIQUADRO STRADIVARIUS ● ● GUESS KIDS ● GUESS MUTINELLI CAPPELLI ● FOSSIL ● BLUEKIDS ● ● H&M GRANDVISION ●

VI

AL

DR

VI VI

EC

RE

ST AL

IC

AI

CA

IN

EC

LO

AL

FI

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AN

CO

AP

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VI

VI

VI

Dry Milano

FOOT LOCKER ● ● FREDDY L'OCCITANE ● ● OLTRE ELENA MIRO ● ● MORELLATO STROILI ORO ● ● WAKE UP COSMETICS GEOX ● ● DANIEL & MAYER VI AG SWAROVSKI ● ● ANTONY MORATO IO YAMAMAY ● VA ● TWIN SET NN ● LEVI’S IO M ● HAVAIANAS BO NI NARA CAMICIE ● ● AERONAUTICA MILITARE CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● ● KIPLING S TO O ● CARRERA JEANS M DA E CA ● NIKE MILANO IS A LV EL

RS

AN SS ZZ

AL

AL

EC

OD

LA

LE

PA

AA

RO

VI

ZA

CO

OV

IC

AZ

DR

A TA L

AL

OS

ET

VI

AF

OS

IS

O

UN

IN

ET

EN

VI

AL

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VI

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Corso Buenos Aires

RT AV

VIA P

● TOMMY HILFIGER ● GUARINO

A ZI

MA S

CE

L

C AG N

I PIE T

RO

V IA

LAM

BRO

LAM

BRO

L ZO

VE

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ME

E S IR

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FRIS

VIA

EPP I

CO

TO R

RS

AO LO

V IA

G IU S

NE

AR

HI

VIA

VIA

AM

IG

ZO

VI

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P AL

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Piazza Guglielmo Oberdan

PORTA VENEZIA

M

IA

A

EZ

VI

EN

DS & DURGA This season contemporary Brooklynbased perfume brand DS & Durga takes inspiration from Italy’s coastline and orange groves with Italian Citrus.

The fragrance emulates a gentle Mediterranean breeze, with citrus top notes sparking headiness and warmth while a soft musk ambrette base roots you in earthiness, celebrating the beauty of this unique destination.

Spritz on this delightful scent and embrace a carefree Italian attitude as you explore the bustling streets of Milan or relax next to the glittering blue sea. When you return home, Italian Citrus will be a beautiful reminder of your trip to this fascinating country. FM Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2901 3581, dsanddurga.com Metro

Restaurant

S H O P | 67

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Via San Pietro all’Orto & Via Torino VI AN

AS OT

ER

O

GH

AR M

NT A

SA

A VI GO U

H R TO IC

V A

OYSHO ● ● INTIMISSIMI ● VICTORIA'S SECRET ● CALZEDONIA Piazza Pio XI ● INTISSIMI UOMO ● CAMPER MM ● ● OROLOGERIA LUIGI VERGA NAU ● ● GEOX BOTTEGA VERDE ● ● FOOT LOCKER SWEET WAY ● ● WAKE UP COSMETICS MAC ● ● MANGO BOUTIQUE DEL GIOIELLO ● V I A G AE TANO G IA R D I NO TRE ESSE SPORT ● ● TORINO 21 ● NIKE STORE ● BATH & BODY WORKS AW LAB ● MUJI ● ● PARFOIS PANDORA ● ● WYCON PULL & BEAR ● ● KIKO SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ● ● KEY BE KIEHL'S ● O N ● PIMKIE GUESS ● R I ● ACCESSORIZE A TO ● MIRIADE G TEZENIS ● A ● KIDULT ZA I TALLY WEIJL ● N V ● OTTICA BARELLO GO DIXIE ● ● TERRANOVA IO NYX ● Z I

NO

A

TO

RI

LI

O

N L' U

ION

E

LUSH ● ● CALLIOPE STRADIVARIUS ● TREND ● ● ALCOTT LEVI'S ● ● H&M MIDINETTE ● KONTATTO ● BOXEUR DE RUES ● ● SIZE LIVELY ● ● CLAYTON ● PARASHOP ● PRIMADONNA ● MAURO LEONE

VIA MA ZZI NI

RI

D EL

O

Piazza Del Duomo

V IA

AU

IN

ZARA ●

DUOMO

VI

R TA V I A SA N

O

ER

Ristorante Cracco

VI

I TA ER GH AR TA M

AN

AS VI

TA M A

LL

AN

I

RINASCENTE ●

BO

VI

AR

VIA UGO FOSCOLO

OR

● FER R A RI STO R E

M

TIFFANY & CO ●

L

M

Piazza Mercanti

MONDADORI ●

DE

N

AR

OVS INDUSTRY ● FIGINI ●

A

SA

A

PECK ●

VI

A

I

BENETTON ●

Ristorante Biffi

VI

NT

CI

● FELTRINELLI

VI

A

CA

FI

Pasticceria Marchesi

● OXUS ● CHANEL

ND

ER

RE

Ristorante Savini

● PRADA

IM

VIA M ENGONI

VI ● BRIC’S A S. ● GUCCI RA ● GIORGIO ARMANI DE GO ● LOUIS VUITTON

DE

CURRADO ● GRIMOLDI ● RUGGERI ● LA FARMACIA CARLO ERBA ●

O

VIA S. PELLICO

LL

G A LLER I A VIT TO RIO EMANUE L E II

● AIGNER

SARTORIA ROSSI ● CIELO 1914 ●

NE

O

Bar Camparino

FUEGUIA ●

VI A

FFA EL E

MASSIMO DUTTI ● STEFANEL ● SAINT LAURENT ● CADÉ ●

AG

A

Ristorante Cracco

A

VI

PRADA ● TOD’S ● SWAROVSKI ● VERSACE ●

VI

LEICA ●

LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

V I A TO M M A S O G R O SS I

BORSALINO MONTBLANC MEJANA PIUMELLI CHURCH’S NOLI

VIA SA N RA

VIA MENGONI

G AL L ERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE I I

Ristorante Galleria

● ● ● ● ● ●

IT A

PR

DANTE CORDUSIO MUSEO LEONARD ● MONCLER ● RIZZOLI ● ANDREW'S TIES ●

Autogrill-terrazza Aperol

Piazza della Scala

GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE I I

AS

TRUSSARDI ●

VI

A

M

AU

R

ITALIA MISSORI

BORSALINO Founded in the northern Italian town of Alessandria in 1857, this historic milliner has over 160 years of experience in creating handcrafted, timeless headwear, and is among the world’s most celebrated luxury labels. Its traditional production process is still performed by hand and some designs take up to six months to complete – the ultimate in Made in Italy craftsmanship. For spring/summer 2020, Borsalino looked to London’s 1851 Great Exhibition and the Arts and Crafts Movement for its range of new models, including this chic straw hat. KW Bar

CafŽ

Borsalino, Via Sant’Andrea 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 878910, borsalino.com H fOR mAp GO tO pAGe 70

68 | G U I D E

Corso Vittorio Emanuele

● CLARKS

● NESPRESSO

A

LLE DE

O

EU

RO

PA

RV A CE VIA

PA

RO

EU

C.

VI A D U RIN I

E II

RS

TO R

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● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANO' ● RAY BAN ● BROSWAY

VI

VIT

AN

● BOGGI

LO

OD STORE ●

Piazza San Carlo

● BALDININI TREND

PA O

DUOMO

SO OR

M IO E

Piazza San Babila

E OR ST ● SISLEY ER NT ● CAMICISSIMA ●I ● NYX ● DIESEL GEOX ● I E● E R N Z ● ACCESSORIZE IR IRE ● URBAN OUTFITTERS ● NBA F ● TRUSSARDI JEANS O'BAG ●

SAN

FFA EL E

SIGNOR VINO ● LUSH ●

● TWIN SET ● TIMBERLAND ● THE NORTH SAILS KIKO ● ● LUISA SPAGNOLI SWATCH ● ● MILAN MEGA STORE GOBBI 1842 ● ● MICHAEL KORS COCCINELLE ● ● PINKO SWAROVSKI ● ● DISNEY ● LIU JO ZARA ● THE HIGHLINE T O MEN ● ● FOOT LOCKER ’OR ALL ● GAP ZARA ● TRO ● ADIDAS . P IE CALZEDONIA ● V. S ● TEZENIS UNITED COLOURS ● PULL & BEAR OF BENETTON ● ● OTTICA CRISAFULLI ● SEPHORA IS ● BERSHKA I S TO F O R IA DE CR ● MANGO G A L L ER ● KIKO ID MAX MARA ● MAX & CO ● ● MOTIVI PENNYBLACK ● ● GOLDEN POINT I BLUES ● ● SOLARIS MARELLA ● ● YAMAMAY MARINA RINALDI ● ● CISALFA

VI A

VIA S AN RA

Rinascen te

OTTICA VANZINA ● Y NOT ? ● H&M ● ROCCA 1974 ●

C

FOOTBALL TEAM ●

● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANO'

APPLE ●

INTIMISSIMI ● ● NARA CAMICIE ● OTTICA SAN CARLO CELIO ● ● LIBERO MILANO TISSOT ● V I A SAN C L E M EN T E ARI V IA PAT T ● MATHEUS ● PK ● ALCOTT-GUTTERIDGE ● CARPISA & OTHER STORIES ● ● FALCONERI INGLOT ● ● INTIMISSIMI MISS SIXTY ● NARA CAMICIE ● FURLA ●

Cioccolati Italiani

● STONE ISLAND

SAN BABILA

● LOLITA

Piazza Liberty

SELECTED BRANDS IN RINASCENTE: Complét P.33

CO RS O MATT EO TT I

● DIMENSIONE DANZA

CO

Piazza Meda

O RE

THE BRIDGE Update your wardrobe with a bag from The Bridge, which has been renowned for quality leather goods since 1969. Choose from an array of practical yet stylish creations, from satchels to small leather accessories. The Panzani Wow backpack is one of the key pieces from the new collection. Handcrafted in Italy by skilled artisans, it is made using vegetable-tanned leather that has been polished to create the softest finish. The perfect size to take with you as you explore Milan, it’s also roomy enough to carry gifts from a day of souvenir shopping. KW The Bridge, Via Landolfo 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8909 6965, thebridge.it Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

Place Of Interest

Gelateria

70 | G U I D E

Via Pietro Verri, Piazza Meda, Via Gesù & Via Sant’Andrea VIA SENATO

MOSCHINO ●

PRADA ●

VIA DELLA SPIGA

SAINT LAURENT ●

DO LU SI C M RI C I LV AR O AIA BA AN AN AN S IN RIE TI RB PI TE IC O OL O D N F A A F R AS B B A O O F T IN N L D I GR U B N E A N H MT I N A R A R B T T K S A U C O S SA L E A A PA R D PA OY I N G O O R R A I A R R M A AC N D I C Z I L E R C A E T E R N Z T O NL B AA L' S AT R T T S O L I I N I A R D C I ●A ●C I ● L I ● E ●T I ● T ●A ● I ● ● ● ● I ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

THOM MIU MIU ● ● BROWNE PHILIPPE MODEL ●

● BERLUTI JIL SANDER ● NAVY ● PREMIATA ● MR&MRS GIAMBATTISTA ● VALLI ● AQUAZZURA ● CHANEL ● OLG STUART ● WEITZMAN ● BANNER CESARE ● PACIOTTI ● RIMOWA ● CHIARA BONI ● DORIANI

70 LUXURY BRANDS ● ROGER VIVIER ● AGNONA ● CHURCH’S ● GIVENCHY ● ARMANI ● CARLO ELEUTERI ● MAISON MARGIELA ●

VIA SANT’ANDREA

BOTTEGA VENETA ●

V IA G E S Ù

● CAOVILLA

P.67 H BORSALINO ● LE SILLA ● ERES ● JIMMY CHOO ● ● BRIONI CASADEI ●

V IA BAGU TTA

● MISSONI PROMEMORIA ●

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE

PATEK PHILIPPE ● VACHERON CONSTANTIN-PISA ● PISA OROLOGERIA ● ETRO PROFUMI ● VIA BI G L I

MASSIMO SFORZA ●

● PIAGET ● GUCCI

V I A PIETRO VERRI

A QU AC

VIA SAN DAMIANO

TOM FORD ●

ALEXANDER ● MCQUEEN ● JIL SANDER ● FREDDY FRANKIE ● MORELLO ● DSQUARED2 ● PALADINI

TUMI Tumi continues its commitment to sustainability with its first travel range made using recycled materials. Part of the brand’s spring/summer 2020 collection, the Merge line is made from postindustrial recycled nylon and postconsumer recycled plastic bottles.

Colourways include classic black, deep blue, or striking silver with neon yellow accents – ideal for those looking to stand out in the First Class lounge. The brand’s new-season range also includes additions to the Turin collection, in the form of backpacks and a briefcase in striking black croc-effect leather, and the Alpha 3 line, offering everything from carry-ons to four-wheeled cases, toiletry bags and even a pouch for your tech cables. Whether your next trip is a city break or long-haul holiday, Tumi is sure to have the perfect piece for you. FM Tumi, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 4830, tumi.com H for Map go To page 64

FREDERIC ● MALLE

JULIPET ●

Pi M azz ed a a

CANALI ● BAL

DININ

I● PUN ELEVEN TO O T T T IC Y ● O ● ENZ I CAS MIL AN O TEL LAN ● I●

LOR

VI A S

A N PA

O LO

Via San Pietro all’Orto VI

A

VI

● ISAIA JIL ● FEDELI SANDER ● ● BAGUTTA BOGLIOLI ● ● IL GUFO MASCHIO ● PIN-UP ● ● ASPESI POMELLATO ● ● EDDY MONETTI

BA

A PO LE ON

E

TI

’OR ALL

ZEPTER ● INTERNATIONAL

SAN BABILA

TO

● BROOKS BROTHERS ● PRONOVIAS

SAMSONITE ● MAURO LEONE ● CONTIGO ● BOSE ● CASHMIRINO ● FOR PETS ONLY ●

Global Blue Retailer

NA

T RO

YOUNG VERSACE ●

TT A

TE

PIE

COR SO MAT TEOT

ON

SAN

LENOVO ●

M

VIA

C. MAT TEOT T I

GU

Piazza San Carlo

● FERUTDIN ZAKIROV ● SUPERGA ● SANDRO FERRONE ● MARCO

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

Featured In This Issue

72 | G U I D E

Via Montenapoleone Piazza Croce Rossa MONTENAPOLEONE

V IA P

V IA M

V IA BO R GO

OR E FE RR ● SA LVAT INO ● VA LE NT

Pasticceria Marchesi

OMEGA ●

LANIFICIO COLOMBO ● PIQUADRO ● JACOB COHEN ● GUSELLA ● APM MONACO ●

AG AM O

V IA SANTO SPIRITO

● ALBERTA FERRETTI ● MALO

VI A BO

RG OS P

ES SO

AGRESTI ● VIA SAN TO SPIR

LANVIN ●

AKRIS ●

V IA S

AN

P IE

TRO

A LL ’O R

● SABBAD INI ● ROBERT O CAVALL I ● CAMPER ● SANTON I H P.74 ● PRADA MAN ● AUDEM ARS PIGUET ● D O LCE & G A B BA N A ● GIORGIO ARMAN I

TRO

● MOORER ● GIANNI CHIARINI FIRENZE ● MAISON MARGIELA ● SERMONETA ● VILEBREQUIN ● FABIANA FILIPPI ● ROSATO ● I PINCO PALLINO ● SERAPIAN ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● LORENA ANTONIAZZI ● MEGA FASHION ● NILU FAR

VIA GESÙ

TIFFANY & CO ● ● L.B.M. 1911 ● BLUMARINE ● CHLOÉ

ERIKA CAVALLINI ● FRANCK MULLER GENEVE ● RICHARD MILLE ● ALDO BRUE’ ● RIVOLTA DAL 1883 MILANO ● FAY ●

VIA SANT’A NDREA

● PRADA WOMAN ● GIUSEP PE ZANOTT I H ● SAINT LAUREN T

ALES

● CREED ● MONNALISA ● PRETTY BALLERINAS ● PIAZZA SEMPIONE ● ROCCO BAROCCO ● MC2 SAINT BARTH ● DONDUP

POLLINI ● MIU MIU ● VIA SANT’ANDREA

VIA DELLA SPIGA

VIA MONTE NAPOL EONE

Cov a

ITO

BILLIONAIRE ●

VIA GESÙ

● DAMIAN I

VI A P I ET R O VERRI

VILEBREQUI N ● GIOVANNI RASPINI ●

VIA DELLA SPIGA

POMELLATO ● GIADA ● TOD’S ● VERSACE ●

HOGAN ● HERNO ● FENDI CASA ● FENDI ● SALVAT ORE FERRA GAMO ● MONCL ER ● IWC ● PASQU ALE BRUNI ●

BY ANNAB ELLA ● ● OFFICI NE PANER AI ● FRATEL LI ROSSE TTI ●

NI

● CARTIER ● PAUL & SHARK ● LA PERLA ● ZOHR ● HERMÈS ● MARNI ● DIOR ● BURBER RY ● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ● VENINI

Illy Caffè

LARUS MIANI ● GUCCI ● ETRO ●

A N ZO

ER I ● FA LC ON IA NI ● CO RN EL H P.14 ● PI NKO PI SA UT IQ UE - I DE SI GN BO X LE TT ● RO PE ZA NO ● GI US EP IE DI EM PO LI ER ● VE TR SP ES SO

V IA MO NTENAP OLEON E

BA LLY ● DO ZE GN A ● ER ME NE GIL BA LM AIN ● ELL I ● CIN CU O C● BR UN ELL MO NT BL ANTA ● NE BO TTE GA VEPIA NA ● LO RO I● SS RO IO RG SE ● EM ILIO PU CCI SALV INI ● CELINE ● SWATCH ● BALDININI ● BALENCIAGA ● MICHELA BRUNI REICHLIN ● BUCCELLATI ● BACCARAT ● MOORER ● CUSI GIOIELLIERI ● DEVI KROELL ● VHERNIER ● FABIO GAVAZZI ● LOEWE ● COACH ● ITALIA INDEPENDENT ● BREGUET ●

Via della Spiga

SCAVIA ● COLOMBO VIA DELLA SPIGA ● SICIS JEWELS ● TORY BURCH ● MONCLER ENFANT ●

TATRAS ● CAR SHOE ● SPIGA UNO ● CRIVELLI ● FALCONERI ●

● SPORTMAX ● PRADA ● CANADA GOOSE

VIA SAN P R IM

● CHOPARD

O

● MICHAEL KORS ● GENNY ● PEUTEREY ● LONGCHAMP H P.30 ● GIÒ MORETTI

TO

● LOUIS VUITTO N

ERMANNO ● SCERVINO ● TOMA

● BULGAR I

● D&G

CO R

SO V

ENE

Z IA

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI Giuseppe Zanotti’s low-top Urchin sneakers prove that the trainer trend is here to stay. For spring/summer 2020 this signature design is available in a bold red edition that packs some real Italian flair. Produced in San Mauro Pascoli, where some of the world’s most famous footwear is handcrafted, the Urchin features a lace-up design with the brand’s signature logo, zip panelling and the famous Giuseppe Zanotti sculpted 3D-effect sole. Sea urchin-inspired spikes transform the shoes into a work of art and this season’s must-have trainers. KW Giuseppe Zanotti, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 6808, giuseppezanotti.com Global Blue Retailer Metro

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Restaurant

Café

Featured In This Issue

www.10corsocomo.com Corso Como, 10 - 20154 Milano - Italy Every day 10:30 am - 07:00 pm t.+39 02 29013581

74 | G U I D E

JUSBOX

10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, jusboxperfumes.com

SANTONI Andrea Santoni launched his eponymous Italian footwear brand in 1975, showcasing exceptional craftsmanship. Now run by the founder’s son Giuseppe, Santoni continues to create superb eyecatching shoes for the directional dresser. From all-white trainers that look perfect with a summer tan to teal sandals and neutral peep-toe sliders, the brand’s new-season footwear includes an option for every possible occasion. In addition to producing impeccably crafted shoes, Santoni also has the highest eco credentials and its headquarters in Corridonia is built from 90% recyclable materials. SM Santoni, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0508, santonishoes.com H fOr mAp gO TO pAge 72

Discover niche perfume brand Jusbox at Milan’s 10 Corso Como concept store. Jusbox offers a contemporary collection of 13 luxury fragrances inspired by music, including signature classics Black Powder and No Rules. With Beat Café, a SHOP favourite, perfumer Dominique Ropion has captured the essence of the swinging 1960s and the youthful, creative café culture. This spicy oriental explosion has powerful top notes of cognac, black pepper and coriander seed, heart notes of tobacco and black leather, and a base of vetiver and creamy cedar wood.

The fragrance is presented in the brand’s signature music-themed packaging, with everything from the cap to the soft-touch box inspired by vinyl records. KW

76 | G U I D E

VENICE Calle Larga XXII Marzo & Salizada San Moisè P.31 H FRETTE ●

MONCLER ● CHANEL ●

Campo S. Moisè

OISé

ARE

SSO

O

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● FABIANA FILIPPI

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● CONTINI GALLERIA D'ARTE ● BURBERRY ● LA COUPOLE UOMO ● SERMONETA GLOVES ● MALO/AGNONA

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

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● GUCCI ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● SAINT LAURENT ● TOD’S

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CARTIER ● BOTTEGA VENETA ● MIU MIU ● PRADA ● DONNA UOMO ● VERSACE ● MAJE ●

Global Blue Lounge

JESURUM ● AMP MONACO ● ELEUTERI ●

ANTONIO SEGUSO ●

FALCONERI ● PAUL & SHARK ● ZORA FOREVER ●

VALEXTRA ● VENETIA STUDIUM ●

C

E LA A LL

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GALLERIA DELL’ ASCENSIONE ● ● CHANEL ● TAG HEUER FENDI ● ● CHANEL RENÈ CAOVILLA ● ● LORO PIANA A. CODOGNATO ● SAINT HERMÈS ● NE ● LAURENT S T OS L A N D OMEGA ● ●I JIMMY CHOO ● ● DIOR ICA I OT T R BA N E Z ZER IA LOUIS FR ●U ● VUITTON BULGARI ●

O LA C

A● R ZAR JES TTE N R A A SAU T V R I C ● D N TO N P ROJ E A ERMENEGILDO ● ALLIN ● ZEGNA ●B

PIGNATON Dating back to 1923, the Pignaton store offers stylish premium menswear from Hugo Boss and Tommy Hilfiger. From sporty hooded sweatshirts and chinos to shirts and padded gilets, Tommy Hilfiger offers separates that are ideal for layering. Hugo Boss has a range of suiting options and elevated separates – from loafers and summer footwear styles to lightweight knits, blazers and polo shirts, these pieces will create a refined look that’s perfect for evenings spent exploring Venice’s local bars and trattorias. SM Pignaton, Fondamenta Orseolo, San Marco 1218, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 4378 Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Lounge

Gelateria

S H O P | 77

Piazza San Marco DA

RI A

PAULY ●

PALESA GALLERY ●

SANSOVINO ● MARKUS ●

AD ● CAMILLA ●

JUNIOR ●

I DEGANI ● TRE ERRE ●

U- BOAT ● OFFICINA BERNARDI ● FOPE GIOIELLI ● OLIVETTI ● AM ● FOTORECORD ● ORTOLANI ●

BR

Caffe' Aurora

● CENEDESE ● TREVISAN ● BRIC'S ● ROLEX ● TREVISAN R.S. ● PANERAI

È

Caffè Florian

ION

● VISCONTI ORLANDINI ● ARCADIA ● BOLDRIN ● LEO PIZZO ● ROBERTO BRAVO ● 66 RZ SALVADORI ● DIAMOND ATELIER H ● MARTINUZZI ● NARDI ● ZORZI

ENS

AS

●P

O IS AN M

● GALLERIA RAVAGNAN ● ROBERTO COIN ● OFFICINA BERNARDI ● G. PAGAN ● SAN MARCO 55

N DA IOR ● G SIR È E D ● L

SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER Opened in Venice in 1857, Salvadori Diamond Atelier offers some of the world’s most beautiful gems. Each stone is cut with precision to ensure it offers the brilliant sparkle that the brand is renowned for. All of the label’s pieces are produced in compliance with human rights and the brand donates a portion of its proceeds to the charity ActionAid. Customers will not only obtain a beautiful piece of jewellery but also help marginalised communities across the world. As well as its array of stunning jewellery, Salvadori offers a selection of watches from brands including Rolex, Panerai and Patek Philippe. FM Salvadori Diamond Atelier, Piazza San Marco, San Marco 67, 30124 Venice, +39 041 523 0609, salvadori-venezia.com Café

VENINI ● IDA BASTIANELL O ● LA COUPOLE GLASS ● ANTICA MURRINA VENEZIA ● CRUCIANI

AR

AB

SIST'ART ●

IF

Gran Caffè Quadri

DE P●

E AD R T EC R E EGO L I O C O R● B I CE S C O I L BIB SEO ● VFA S O Y MU ● AU L

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Caffè Lavena

E

AM

Piazza San Marco

ASC

● STONE ISLAND

SA LI

CH

GIOIELLERIA SAN MARCO ●

LL

NG

BONCOMPAGNI ● BONCOMPAGNI VALERIA ● AD ●

CA

N●

L‘ LE L A R G A D E

LO

CAL

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AT O IGN

Piazzetta dei Leoncini

Place Of Interest

AUDEMARS ● PIGUET ● FABRIS

PALAZZO DUCALE

AUDEMARS ● TOKATZIAN ● SERENDIPITY ● BEVILACQUA

Gran Caffe' Chioggia

SUV-VENETIAN ● BEADS

78 | G U I D E

Mercerie di San Salvador, Capitello, San Zulian & dell’Orologio

A LV AD

A MI R CC SI K E ET BE IS OC CR RE NTIM T L MI SE ● I OO A S ' ● F EG IA ● L OR ● CT O CA VI ALLO ● P I ● G K I K OX O TE ● GE DR UA LL ● IQ P O ●

L’ O

TT

TW I C N A RP U L I N A M A L SE A N C A LOV T ● TO MIC E ● TA V VA E NI ● GL EN ● IA EZ PI IA ET ● GU RA T T AW BA ER L LD ID AB G B INI E ● P I O G G N I ●● NK I O ● ●

MATERIALMENTE VENEZIA ● FROLLO ● LUIGI FUSARO ●

OR

T FONDACO ● DEI TEDESCHI

● ● L ● E UN ● G U XC L A C ● C I U R ● L A M DO SI E A ● C YR IL RE VE ZIO ● M O CC A L A N I NI OT ● O UR I TI ● S TT A NE CA ● AT AV E I C A N O L L E ● S E F IN ● D A N SE M Y OT V ● L E E S I M A TA B A O G E N I L I DA G U R G R A CE VI F A CO FI AN A L A VE A BR FE TR CO I S RR ID NT UZ ' A I ZI RT E

S. S

LL E

SP

● IL CORALLO ● ROMA 1947

EC ● MACRÌ

IE D

IA

ER

AR

RC

RD

ME

PA

● EMILIO CECCATO ● GUCCI ● VIVICI TROLL BEADS ● ● OTTICA VENEZIANA VERONESE ● SOLARIS COLLECTION ● ● CARGASACCHI LACOSTE ● PANDORA ●

RI

ES

IE

LL

CH

CA

MARELLA●

● MATTIUZZI ● CROMIA

CA

723 ● M E FABRIS RICAMI ● R C LA PARIGINA ● E R BIALETTI ● I E DANIEL WELLINGTON ● S A LA PARIGINA ● N ASTOLFO ● Z U LIBER ● L I A BURATO ● N R. TIOZZO ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

’OR EL

BUCCELLATI ●

● MAX MARA

OL

MANDARINA DUCK ● POLLINI ● ROVOLETTO ●

OG

AN

ELL

OA

RTE

● ●S W

AT C EL AB LI ER RO LO SS T T ET O ● LA TI PE ● RL A● ● MA IL B X& AU FU LD ● CO RL ’OR ● M PA N A● IEN D A X M OR MA TE ● ● R RINA AR A A SO GN INA ID LD ’OR GR I OS O● CA ● MP DE S PO ER VE INT NIS ● MA E C● ●S WA TCH ●P E N ●C N AL Y BL ZE D O AC K NIA

STI

ME

NE

GH

ETT

AR

OV

SK

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FR

SA

NS

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OR

● BATA

● PELLETTERIA

Global Blue Retailer

IO

BA

Piazzetta ● SPAZIO A dei Leoni ● MORELLATO ● MURANO IN VENICE

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Piazza San Marco

S H O P | 79

Murano TA EN AM ND FO

VETRERIA ARTISTICA LA FENICE ●

DE

SIGNORETTO LAMPADARI ●

LA

UL

M

IDEA MURANO ●

A

MAZZEGA GLASS FACTORY ● MARCHETTI MARIA ● CAMPAGNOL E SALVADORE ● PESCE PESCE ● FIORE FIORE ● COLLELLI & OTTERDAHL ●

IN

AN

RI

RA I FO ND AM EN

O AN

ANTICA VETRERIA ● GIOIELLI R.T. MURANO ● NEROPACO ● VETRI D'ARTE RAVANELLO ● VENINI ●

TA M

IP NC SA MO RA

● FERRO VETRO ● APA GIOIELLI ● F.LLI MORETTI ● MOSAICI DONÀ MURANO ● SEGUSO VIRO ● COSE COSÌ ● MIRIAM ● LAMBERTI RAFFAELLA ● VETRI G. BASTIANELLO ● MORI SNC

ARTIZ ● SOFFIO DI VETRO ● EFFE DUE MURANO ● PICCOLI PENSIERI ● DOMUS VETRI D’ARTE ●

FO ND AM EN TA DE IV ET

● L'ARTE MURANESE ● F & M BALLARIN ● M. CAVAGNIS OROVETRO ● ● NASON MORETTI MURANO IL VETRO DI FUGA ● ● ORIGINAL MURANO SCHIAVON MURANO ● ● BOTTEGA DEL VETRO CESARE TOFFOLO ● ● ARTIGIANATO VENEZIANO LUCEVETRO ● ● VETROMANIA BAROVIER & TOSO ● ● ART BIJOUX GIAMPAOLO NASON VETRI ARTISTICI ● ● ANDREA 2000 FRANCO SCHIAVON GALLERY ● ● CARLO MORETTI VETRERIA COLONNA ● ●C&G CESARE SENT ● ● LINEA MURANO ART SCHIAVON ● ● FORNACE GINO MAZZUCCATO CAM ● ● VETRERIA ARTISTICA GRITTI

PEUTEREY Italian brand Peuterey creates timeless clothing with a sporty edge that is built to last. For spring/summer 2020, the brand’s minimalist collection offers sleek lines and comfortable practicality, with classic staples that will slot into your wardrobe with ease. The Soft Attitude loungewear range offers textured panelling and simple colours, while the main collections feature a muted colour palette of white, grey, navy and black accented with pops of colour, from bright turquoise for men to strawberry red and dusky pink for women. For sleek grown-up sportswear, Peuterey is well worth discovering. FM Linassi, Salizada San Giovanni Grisostomo, Cannaregio 5733, 30121 Venice, +39 041 522 2686, peuterey.com

Via de’ Tornabuoni, Via degli Strozzi & Via Porta Rossa

VIA ROMA

MONCLER ●

APPLE ●

VIA CALIMALA TWIN SET ● BORSALINO ● TRY ME ● BRANDY MELVILLE ● IXOS ● MONTGOMERY ●

● EREDI CHIARINI ● ALPHA STUDIO FARMACIA ● SS.ANNUNZIATA QUERCIOLI E ● LUCHERINI

VIA MONALD A

V I A D E ' TO R N A B U O N I

BO NP OI

NT ●

E

ION

AR

LP

VIA PELLICCERIA FALCONERI ●

● PATRIZIA PEPE

STE

SI ● SA S R E A A N DA ● I AND IO B I U S T I ● G L I F IC TEL D● CO L RAR E LE G LLI ● L I T T N OV E ETH O● GAR TIER SEN NN ● A RM

MU

MAR

Featured In This Issue

AELEONORE ●

● CCI ● GU CO S ● DEN MAD OSE ONE EVE B A RC R E T ● ● ST LDEN GO S E M AT ● ● GO GGI ● DA BO E ● D 'S M A R IOA ● CO S T A ● L A KO ERI OGN ● F U M B O L AC E ● P INO S E P R O L E R I A I L A G RB U T I ● ● K A R T H FA C N O ZO M A N D● ● N O OV E N Z A O S SI CAL ORL G W IES ● ● P R T O R IA R TIN B R G H U N IVA B A N C E ● ● SA S W IN A ● D NKEY BAL IDGE ● DO N E WU T T E R U IG I ● RS ID E R L ● N N IE P IN E G O IE T ● T ARO NA S OUR E S CO Y D F U S AVA I A O S ● IR ● T IE IQ O ● H NTE M P TO B IS O P.32 ● CO RO G ER S ETR ● IL H Y ● R O T IA N R ● K A EYEWEA A NI ● ● OP RMONET ARI CHI I● ● S EP S T O R E N N I M I DA L ● GIA ● W LLI LIE AME ● VA O N I R ● B A S E TA SI ● ● IN LAS ● LUCE TEL Y NTRO M A N R E I TA L ● ● CO OR U E S U T A S H M B AT E A TO R E CK S C IT ● DU PET RT NHEA ● BE P.26 T● A●H FON Z ZUR LLI AQ UA TO R E L D T IC A IE ● O T H N A S H F N IC H IN I ● J O S U N TA A ● AS

A U OV

NA N

A VIG

ELL VIA D

● PAUL & SHARK

BURBERRY ● OMEGA ●

LOUIS ● VUITTON

TIFFANY & CO ●

AMERICAN VINTAGE ● DOLCE & GABBANA ●

CARTIER ● BOTTEGA VENETA ●

V I A D E ' TO R N A B U O N I PRADA ●

VIA DE’ VECCHIETTI

OL

FRATELLI COPPINI ● E

LS

ANNE FONTAINE ●

LUISA SPAGNOLI ● MONNALISA ● LA PERLA ● UGO POGGI ● THE MERCHANT OF VENICE ● ERMANNO SCERVINO ●

DE

P.82 H PRINCIPE DI FIRENZE ●

A

DOLCE & GABBANA ● JUNIOR ● RASPINI V I A P O R TA ● ● ● ROSSA ● ● A L PA R I B ● A ● ● ● ● ● ● ● B M M E M ● B VALENTINO ● Z A A L E R PA O W R N S P E I S G A O T N O L E L I S U O A S VA A M P E ● D I E N TA L O A A R S I S O Z Z T I N I VO G NI AR O F D C NI OW O SI N E RI TÀ N LT & I AG R R I V I A O NI DEL AI A ET L E RE TER TI ME SOTF● MUSEO DIOR ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO DAMIANI ● ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ● MONTBLANC ● GIANFRANCO LOTTI ● PRADA ● KENZO ● SAINT LAURENT ●

Piazza della Repubblica

VIA D EGLI S TR O Z ZI CMP ● ● TOD’S OTTO D'AME ● GIORGIO ARMANI ● DR VRANJES FIRENZE ● BULGARI ● COS ● PALAZZO

STROZZI

● FLOW VERSACE ● VI

Place Of Interest

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Retailer

OFFICINA DEI TORNABUONI ●

DE

VIA

I

IN

RS

CO

NO

AR

NG

LU

PARENTI ●

● CONTE OF FLORENCE PELLICCERIA ● ROMANELLI ● SAINT LAURENT GERARD ● ● FENDI ● LORO PIANA MUSEO ● DELLE CIPRIE ● CHOPARD ● CÉLINE ● PUCCI

VIGN ELL A

VIA D

POMELLATO ●

DA PA AS LL DE

O VA GUCCI ● A NU

● LOCMAN ITALY ● CASADEI ● FANI GIOIELLI ● MAX MARA HOGAN ●

VIA

● MICHELE NEGRI

●

S ● ACQUA DI FIESOLE ● CELLERINI

● ● BIS ● ● C L ACOT BO K M T N ● AN O IFI PO R A L G R I CI IN O D IS A I A T FI . M I RE A N TT ZE E I

80 | G U I D E

FLORENCE

Via della Vigna Nuova

82 | G U I D E

Via Roma & Via Calimala Piazza di San Giovanni

Selected StoreS in rinaScente: Zadig & Voltaire

Piazza del Duomo

ARMANDO POGGI ● INTIMISSIMI ●

VIA DEI TOSINGHI ● SANDRO ● MIU MIU ● MARNI ● MICHAEL KORS

MASSIMO DUTTI ●

MAURO ● VOLPONI

GUESS ●

UPDATED ● ● CLARKS

● SANDRO ● LIU JO VIA DEI LA MB ERTI

V I A DEGLI SPEZIALI GOLDEN POINT ● CHANEL ● ACQUA DELL'ELBA ● SWAROVSKI ● REBECCA ● ATHLETIC WORD ● FALCONERI ● PULL LOVE ● TEZENIS ● V I A D E I TAV O L I N I NASHI ARGAN ●

VI A DEI CALZ A I UO LI

● CORNELIANI

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ● DISNEY ●

VIA CALIMALA

GEOX ● PIQUADRO ● TWIN SET ●

● ZARA

V IA DE I CAL Z A I U O L I

GOLF ● CK UDERWEAR ● ZARA ●

LEVI’S ●

MORESCHI ● DODO ●

VIA DEGLI SPEZIALI ● MOLESKINE

VIA CALIMALA

Piazza della Repubblica

DIESEL ●

COACH ●

● VIP LOUNGE

VIA PELLICCERIA

Rinascente

VIA DEI TOSINGHI MIGONE ●

PROFUMERIA ALINE ●

JO MALONE ●

● HARD ROCK CAFE

PRATESI ● MAX & CO ●

V IA DE I CA L ZAI U OLI

ROMA ● LONGCHAMP ● SISLEY ● STELLA MCARTNEY ●

VIA ROMA

PRADA ●

● GUCCI ● PINKO ● MAJE ● MISS SIXTY NI RMA IO A POR ● E M ● ELISABETTA FRANCHI

VIA ROMA

RICAMI VERONICA ●

P.32 H LUISA VIA

● UGG

Via dei Calzaiuoli

V IA DEI LAM B ER T I CRAVATTIFICIO FIRENZE ● RE NERO ● L’OCCITANE ● CARPISA ● VIA P O RTA ROS S A FARMACIA MOLTENI ● CORSANI ● ATE SETA ● FOSSIL ●

● LIU JO ● PUMA

CHANEL ●

● ENRICO VERITÀ ● TIM ● BATA

VIA DELLE OCHE ● MIA BAG ● VICTORIA'S SECRET ● FIRENZE PRATESI ● LUSH ● DANIEL WELLINGTON ● WYCON ● OROLOGERIA R MARRETTI ● KIKO ● BENHHEART ● YAMAMAY VIA DEL CORSO ● CALZEDONIA ● WOLFORD ● QUERCIOLI ● PYLONES ● COIN

● STEFANEL ● CAMICISSIMA ● LEATHER FACTORY ● LUISA SPAGNOLI H ● COCCINELLE ● NARA CAMICIE ● PRATESI ● SOLARIS MALEDETTI ● RE NERO TOSCANI ● ● GUIDORENI V I A DE L L A C O N D OTTA ● FURLA ● GUTTERIDGE

Piazza della Signoria

V I A P O R TA R O S S A

● MARIELLA INNOCENTI ● BRACCIALINI

With the Made in Italy standard signifying the highest quality, Principe di Firenze is championing Made in Tuscany as an offshoot of this prestigious moniker. The brand’s store dates back to 1930 and specialises in elegant, classic clothing for men and women. The wellappointed boutique offers an array of hand-picked brands and home accessories alongside its own collections, and is a must-visit on your trip to Florence. Men should be sure to invest in a shirt, tie or even a made-to-measure suit from the Principe line, which mixes military influences with quintessential English style. FM Global Blue Retailer Department Store

Principe di Firenze, Via del Sole 2, 50123 Florence, +39 055 292764, principedifirenze.com H FOR mAP GO tO PAGE 80

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

PHOTO: GALLERIA PRINCIPE DI FIRENZE

PRINCIPE DI FIRENZE

S H O P | 83

LUISA SPAGNOLI This season, Luisa Spagnoli transports customers to a riad in Marrakech in the late 1970s, with flowing maxi skirts and utilitarian shirts that define a relaxed yet chic silhouette. For the ultimate head-turning ensemble, team a snakeskin-print trench with shorts and a chocolate-brown blouse, accented with an oversized straw hat and gold plaited belt. A monochrome gingham minidress with puffed sleeves makes the ideal summer look – simply add a large pair of sunglasses, chunky gold jewellery and a strappy pair of sandals, and you’ll be ready to enjoy your own desert adventure. SM Luisa Spagnoli, Via Calzaiuoli 34, 50122 Florence, +39 055 213857, luisaspagnoli.it

A

DAN JOHN ●

PANERAI ● P.28 H

PIA Z Z

Piazza di San Giovanni

DE

LD

UOMO

VI ER IS DE

A

ELL A RT

VIA D

EI M

AN OS B ORG

TORRINI ●

LEATHER FLORENCE ●

RASPINI ●

GAME 7 ATHLETICS ●

PROFUMERIA ALINE ● DE SI I ● SWATCH ●

ERMINI ●

GILARDINI ●

PRIMA DONNA ●

VIA CERRETANI

I

● TRENCH

● INFINITY

VI

ENZ LO R

DIXIE ●

MONTI ● SOUVENIR OF FLORENCE ● IL PAPIRO ● L'ANTICA CANTINA DEL CHIANTI ● TORNABUONI ● ITAL PEL ● TRE ANGELI SOUVENIR ● FAVILLI ● LINDT MAITRE CHOCOLATIER ● APOSTOLATO LITURGICO ● AROMI FIRENZE ●

O

Piazza del Duomo & Via del Corso

● FLAVIO PELLETTERIE ● LIBRERIA SAN PAOLO FLAVIO PELLETTERIE ● S. M. DEL FIORE

Piazza del Duomo

PATRIZIA PEPE ●

DIVA SHOES LE VANITÀ FOTO LOCCHI ERBOLARIO

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM/SALVATORE DRAGONE

● ● ● ●

● GLAMOUR ● JJ PELLETTERIA PELLETTERIA DEL ● CORSO ● PARAGON ● GALLERIA DEL CHIANTI ● DIVA SHOES ● ANGELO ROMANO ● DAVID 2 ● PIERO PULITI ● KIEHL'S ● FABRIANO VI A D EI CERCHI ● COIN ● BRASCHI ● THE FLEXX ● VICOLO ● CLARISSA BIGIOTTERIA

V I A D E L P RO CO N S O LO

TIURAI ●

VIA DEL CORSO

PELUSO ●

ANTICA CUOIERIA ● DIXIE ● SUPER DRY ● AL VIOLA ●

V IA D EI CALZ A IUO L I

V IA ORS ANMI C HELE

● ART STORE ● EMPORIO ITALIANO FIRENZE ● RAFFAELLO

V IA D ELLE OCHE

YAMAMAY ●

Piazza della Repubblica

VIA CALIMALA

VIA DE’ SASSETT I O

globalblue.com

VIA DEI TOSINGHI

PIAZZ A DEL DUOM O ● LOLITA MILANO PIUMINI DANESI AVIREX ● ● FLORENCE’S NEW TRY ME ● ● KODAK FILM ● INTINI & CELLERINI ERBARIO TOSCANO ●

VIA ROMA

VIA D E’ VEC C HIET TI

VIA D E GL I ST ROZ Z I

PAOLO PENKO ●

● ACQUA DELL' ELBA GUIDORENI ●

V I A D E’ PECORI

84 | G U I D E

H&M S PA

STE

DA ●

●

A O T T ICN G I ● BO A Y ● GU H U G OS S ● BO

MAR ● M ILIN A S T O N ITA R E ● IS L E A ● D IV N D A ANNA SHOES ● C A M A R IA M M IL LI

Via Por Santa Maria & Ponte Vecchio

V I A VACC HE R ECCI A

R NA I& CH I IAN IALIN ●B C C RA ●B E IDG BR

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LLA ●B ZET ENE A● VIA CAM T TO ●N DEL N PER ERO LE T ● GIA ● S E ERM CO I GUE RDIN G U ● I E I DOR ● LU ENI SH OT T IC A GAL ● LER ●S IA M ACC AC H B OT AR I AV E T EG ●D LLI ● A DE AV I D D I L ● T ART MAR CHA U INA MPI GAL FO ● ON ANT BRA I● ●D PRA N DY E T S E I G SI ● U ●G M A N & M E LV BORGO UES AL ILLE S SA NTI G O L DA R I N A ● D& APOST FLO DUCK ● OLI ● FA REN L AI CE ● VIA L AM GUT BE R TER ●R TES IDGE E NE CA RO ●S TA F ● A ● RTO P A NDO RIA GUID R R OSS ORE A● I NI O T T IC ●T ES A● UGO ● M SU TI TO P IC C AR SCA INI ● NI ● LU TELLI LU N G C AME ARNO N● ● LU A GIUS TI CIA N DEGL AT E I ACCI O SET A● A I OLI ● LO MBA RDI GHE RAR D I & S . VA G GHE R AR GI ● ● T. THE R R G O L . FA L L A D I ● DEN CI ● ● D E IS T O R I PON LP LU N A U D T E V E C C R IV E R ● ● GAR EMA PA R A O N T E & C H IO RS P 14 ● O. NO D ● GO TI IG EG L LDEN S. TO U E T ● ● D IA I AR DREA R R IS CHIB MAN I● MS S . VA O T R E US I E F IC E . FA G G I ● T E ● H L L AC ER E GO OLD P O N R IA D L B R ID I I ● C A T E V E C CE L G E G D S M IT H ● H IO LL AI ● ALLE ● GP RY ● F ● F R R AT E L L IP AT E L L I P IC E R U Z Z I D A N E . FA N T O C IN I TE NI U . G HC A R D IN I ● ● ER A ● CA RDI ● G .

B IS C IO GOL S DE ● C A S E T T I- R N R O B E R N S O L ID G N S ILV E I ● ● C A L O P IC C L E X R O ARD IN I SSET O AN LD 18KT ● ● PO TI ● T IC H N TO M ITÀ ● ● L V T E V ECC AS GOLD H IO D E T TO VA C H O R E F IC IN I F R A N A R T ● IA M O RI C E ERO NDS N C O R IA S O L IA ● ● F R IL N S TA DI ● L I ● P. C A S N T IN ● FA L L SET T ● A CI A LCO G. B I ZE ● F R AT M ● T H E L L IN I ELLI ANNELL R ● ● U - E GOLDE PERU I● N BR B O AT BORGO Z ZI ● ID G E ● HU SA N JA CO P O ● F O M IL IS G U ID R ● S .A M IG L I A OREN N I● .D .A G O L D N A M A R IA

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P ● MA C H E LIN A R T ● D O VA A PA R R Z Z I ● I' S ● B .D E ● LA S ECC L PELL O● B E ● TS ITA L O T T E G A H IR T IA N A GALL C U O IO ● E RY F F IC IN E●

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The TAU

( ) is the sign with which St. Francis of Assisi loved signing his letters and blessings. Indeed, the TAU, the last letter of the Hebrew alphabet, is designated in the Bible as a symbol for salvation. In the book of Ezekiel and in Revelation’s it is a prophetic sign of salvation through the Cross of Christ.

“The Lord said: go throughout the city of Jerusalem and mark the TAU on the foreheads of those who grieve and lament.” (Ezek. 9.4). “It is a sign of powerful protection against evil...” (Ez. 9, 6). The love for the TAU was a love that sprang from a passionate reverence of the holy cross, for the humility of Christ and is the subject of ongoing meditations of Saint Francis. For the Saint, the TAU was also the sign of his salvation and of Christ’s victory over evil. Today, the TAU has become the symbol of Franciscan spirituality that expresses the love for peace, joy, and God’s creation.

ASSISI

Via San Francesco, 44

FIRENZE

Via Ponte Vecchio, 51/R

The MESSAGE

The TAU is the symbol of a journey of faith that revolves around God. Just as life’s events follow from one to another and are determined by one’s faith so does the TAU of Humilis follow each other creating a never-ending eternal sequence. The ring is the first and only one of its kind created in Assisi.

The craftsmanship, combined with the latest advanced manufacturing techniques, makes Humilis an object of exceptional workmanship, even though understated in style.

This is also one of the primary reasons why the Humilis ring is increasingly being chosen as a wedding ring.

Furthermore, only majestic materials such as gold and silver have been used, to reflect the noble soul of Saint Francis, while the simple and linear design reminds us of the sobriety of his life, as a reference for us to aspire to.

www.humilis.it T +39 075 812324

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Refund Office Details: Milan Malpensa Airport Terminal 1, Departures, Check-In Area 12 (second floor) Terminal 1, Area A, Schengen, after Security Control (first floor) Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Milan Linate Airport Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Downtown Milan Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer service), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan Rome Fiumicino Airport Terminal 3, Departures, Gate E (near Info Desk after security control) Terminal 3, Departures, near Check-In Desk 326 Downtown Rome Rinascente( first floor next to customer service), Via del Tritone 61, 00187 Rome Forexchange Maccorp, Via del Caravita 6, 00186 Rome Forexchange Maccorp Pantheon, Piazza della Rotonda 68B, 00187 Rome Forexchange Maccorp Trevi, Via del Lavatore 88A, 00187 Rome

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Florence Peretola Airport Departures Downtown Florence Forexchange Maccorp, Via Por Santa Maria 3R, 50122 Florence Interchange, Via Por Santa Maria 35R, 50122 Florence Venice Marco Polo (Tessera) Airport Departures, Downtown Venice Forexchange Maccorp, Campo San Bartolomeo, San Marco 5313, 30124 Venice Ital Travel, Calle dell’Ascensione, San Marco 72B, 30124 Venice Yex Change, Piazza San Marco, San Marco 146, 30124 Venice Naples Capodichino Airport Alisud , Terminal 1, Check- In Forexchange Maccorp, Terminal 1, Boarding Area Downtown Ischia Point Ru , Via Antonio de Luca 101, 80077 Ischia

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TRANSLATIONS 中文翻译

38: THE GREEN LIGHT 迷 人绿意

照片: © GORUNWAY.COM

无 论是 热带风情印 花，还是以植物为灵 感 源泉而设 计的配饰，以及符 合可持 续 环 境 发 展 要求的天 然面料，米 兰的设 计 师在 2020年春夏都 将绿色环保意 识融 入 自己的作品中。Fani Mari报 道 春天 是 成长与重 生 的季节，与绿 色紧密 相 关。2020年春夏，米 兰的 T台走秀充 满明快 大 胆 的色调 和青翠 欲 滴的印 花，甚至 还 将 树 叶 和 花 朵 造 型作为头 饰。除了关注色调 本身之外，设 计 师还受 到大自然 和 绿 色可持 续 发 展倡议 的启 发。 位于伦敦 的趋 势 预测 机 构WGSN将Neo Mint（ 荧光薄荷 绿）评为2020年顶级 颜色 之一， 并认 为“乐 观”和 “性 别居中”色调 “使 科 学 技 术与 自然 融 为 一 体 ”。2019和2020年度的Pantone色 彩 奖也 反 映了我们当前 对自然 世界 的痴 迷：2019年的 “活力珊 瑚 ”（Living Coral）已 被 上图: 范思哲2020春夏

2020年的 “经典蓝色”（Classic Blue）所 取 代，Pantone用 “令人回味 无限 广阔的 夜 空 ”来 描 述 此 种蓝色。随 着 越 来越多的人转向素 食 主 义，以 及“气候 紧急状 态 ”（climate emergency） 被牛 津 词 典评为“年度 词汇”，很明显，到2020 年，人们 将更为关注环 境问题。 要对 植物 之美 奉上 盛 赞，不 可错 过 欣 赏范 思哲（Versace）在 2020年春夏 米 兰时装 周上 对 其 标 志性 的 热 带叶子印 花 连 衣 裙的最 新 诠 释。 在 2000年的 格 莱美 颁奖 典 礼 上，Jennifer Lopez 穿 的这件 绿 色 连 衣 裙当时 在网上引起了极 大反 响，“ 范 思哲丛 林连 衣 裙 ”的 搜 索 量 如此巨大， 以 至于 Google专为此创作了Google题图。在该 品牌 的 2020春夏时装 秀闭 幕 时，这个更 新版在 时尚界又引起了极 大的轰动，就像大 约20年 前 Lopez在 红 地 毯 上 光 彩照 人 地 走出来时一样。 古驰（Gucci）在 创意 总监Alessandro Michele的 带 领 下为2020年春夏创作出一系列绿 色调服饰。和WGSN的预言一 致，古驰 在西装、 阔腿裤 和雪纺 衬 衫上都加入了薄 荷 绿 色，同系 列还有鲜 绿 色 的圆点 连 衣 裙、撞色飞 行员夹克 和男女 士 缎面 西服套 装。 在芬 迪（Fendi）秀上，高光夹克 和迷你 裙上 都出现了热 带 花卉图案。该 秀 是Silvia Venturini Fendi及其团队自创意 总监Karl Lagerfeld逝 世以

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44: STYLE WITH SUBSTANCE 富有良知的时尚态度 意 大 利的奢侈时装 公司正把关注 点转向 教育，以支 持当地 群体、社会和文化的 发 展。Ginger Rose Clark细述 这些心怀宽 广的大品牌 意 大 利时装界 在 慈善 事业 上 的努力并不是 什么 新 鲜事。该国许 多领先的奢 侈品牌 都为著名地 标建 筑 物的修 复做 出过 贡献，比如Bottega Veneta对遭受 水灾的威 尼斯圣马克 大 教 堂的支 持，以 及Bulgari资助罗马西 班 牙台阶的翻 新，还 有 Fendi出资修 复 罗马 数个 喷泉 的Fendi for Fountains项目。一些品牌还 创立了基 金会，以捐 款 给各种慈善 事业，例 如Ermenegildo Zegna的 杰尼 亚 基 金（Fondazione Zegna）。最 近，数 家 品牌选 择投 资 于教育，逐渐 形成 另一 种 利他 主 义 的趋 势。 2019年 8月，Polimoda时装学 校 宣 布，它 将 与Missoni合作，于2020年1月开始 推出针 织设 计 硕士 学位。这 家位于佛罗伦萨的 教育机 构 认 为，与知名奢 侈品牌合作对 学 生而 言至 关 重 要，正如Polimoda的总监Danilo Venturi先 生 所 述：“与时尚品牌合作可以让 学 生 通 过动手 实践 来学习。如果您想 从事时尚工作，就 必 须 直 接 向行业学习。忘 掉那 些课 本 吧 — — 我们 的老 师、导师 和品牌合作伙伴可以帮助学 生学到最 好的东西。Polimoda所要 推动的 就 是 缩小 教育 与行业之间的差 距。” 通 过联 合 起 来，奢 侈品牌 和时尚 教育机 构 也可以帮助建 立一支 技 术 娴 熟 的劳 动力队伍， 满足 未 来的需 求。“设 计服 装面 料 与直 接由针 织 机 生 产 连 衣 裙 或一 件衣 服完 全不同，”Missoni

上图(左起)：Supernature, Polimoda 2019时装秀; “Buccellati-cut”布契拉提切型钻石耳环

照片: FEDERICA FIORAVANTI

来举 行的第一场 表演，其灵 感 来自宜 人 的意 大 利夏季的日落 和日出。水 桶 帽 和同色 系鞋 子如 点睛之笔，让 这 些 从头 到脚 的和谐 造 型在 本来 以中性 为主 题 的秀中脱 颖 而出。 和 芬 迪 的低 调印 花 相比，玛尼（Marni）的 花 朵图案则生动醒目，在其 充 满活力的时装 秀 上，人们 看到的是 绿 和蓝 的大色 块 组合，解 构 的长裙，热 带风情 森 林印 花 和当帽子戴 的硕大 龟背竹 叶 子，让 人叫绝。创意 总监 Francesco Risso以有 机 棉、优 质回收纺织品和再 生 皮革为 主 材料，在 2020年春夏为可持 续 发 展 提 供了清 爽 新思 路。 米 索尼（Missoni）以其 标 志性 的之字形针 织而闻名，一直 承诺 会为顾客奉上 彩 虹 般 的绚 烂色 彩，2020年春夏也不例外。尽管低 调 的剪 裁减 弱了印 花的锐气，但 热 带 绿 意 和 花 朵 仍然 很 显 眼。本 季代 表 作 包括印 有印象派 风 格花卉 图案的 轻薄雪纺超长裙，和各种 绿 色调 的条 纹 长裤。像 Risso一样，设 计师 Angela Missoni也 想 通 过秀 场发 表 生 态声明，她让模 特 们 拿 着由 Olafur Eliasson设 计 的Little Sun太阳能 灯为 走 秀画上句号，以纪 念“全 球气候 大罢工”（Global Climate Strike）。 菲拉 格 慕（Salvatore Ferragamo）的设 计为 这 种 绿 色 趋 势带来了不同解读。轻 盈、飘 逸 的 夏季 衬 衫 裙上，以黄色为 背景印着 常春藤 绿 色 的罗马风 格图案，在 意 大 利里维 埃 拉 度假时可 与比 基尼完美 搭配。秀 场上 的明快 绿 色调 单品 还有针 织 超 短 裤、皮革风 衣、钩编 迷你连 衣 裙 和露肩式长裙。除 此 之外，在 连 衫 裤、男式 衬 衫 和长裤上，可以 看到深 栗色印 花以 及 植物图 案，使自然色 彩的趋 势不 仅仅局限在 纯 绿 色 的 服 装 上。 Luisa Spagnoli受西 班 牙 舞 者服 装的启发， 以独特 视角诠 释丛 林主 题，将深 绿 色 的真丝长 裙与火 红 的头巾搭配 在一 起。Blumarine以 绝 对 女 性视角解读 大自然，巧妙 运用精 致的 花 朵、 荷 叶 边 和雪纺。品牌 的绿 色锦 缎西服 和蕾 丝 迷 你 裙 将 满足 您夏季 着 装的所有需 求。为了证明 中性 打 扮 仍然可以展现 女 性 韵 味，Annakiki玩 转 野生动物园的色调，将卡其色 连 衣 裙、超 大 号皮革西 装 外 套 和森 林 绿 色 套 装 打造 出不一 般 的风情。 米 兰时装 周的某 些 元 素所 体 现 出的对气候 变化的强烈 立场可能令人惊讶，但 整 体而 言，设 计师 和消费 者对此 意图都 持欢 迎 态度。无论是 直 言不讳 抓住 绿 色问题 的品牌，还 是充 满 热 带 气 息 和丛 林印 花的服 饰系列，米 兰向2020春夏 潮流 所 传 达 的信息都是明确 的 — — 我们需要 促 进 积极 的环 境变化，以免为时已 晚。

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的 创意 总监Angela Missoni女 士在 新 课 程的 推 广 视 频中解 释 说： “ 我们需要专业 从事 针 织 服 装的年 轻 设 计师。” 学 生 从 Polimoda学 校 获得 技 术 指导，并从 Missoni公司 获得 实践 支 持，这 种 协同培 养 体系 所产生 的互 利是 显而易见的。Venturi先 生说：“ 奢 侈品牌 对 我们 投 入资源，而我们 信任 他们， 这 将为 我们 的学 生 提 供 机会来 聆 听当代品牌 领 导人，并珍 惜他们所 给 予的 鼓 舞人心的话 语。 奢 侈品牌 和我们 一样 相信 我们 的学 生，并看到 他们 的 潜力。”通 过 积极 投 资 于 未 来人 才 的教 育，意 大 利的奢 侈品牌正在 为自己的基业长青 做 出贡献，并 打造 出与时俱 进 的良性 循 环。 教育也可以是回馈社 区的一 种 方 式。同名 羊 绒品牌 的 创始人Brunello Cuci- nelli，对 该品 牌 的所在 地中世 纪 小 镇 Solomeo进行了修 复。 Cucinelli先 生 对 哲学充 满 热 情，对 Solomeo的发 展 采 取了人 本主义 的态度。该 镇 除了品牌 的 数 间工 厂和工坊外，还 包括 一所手工 艺学 校，作 为其 Foro delle Arti（ 艺 术 论 坛）的一 部 分。受 John Ruskin和 William Morris等19世 纪富 有远见 的智 者的启发，该学 校 开设 的课 程 从 裁 缝、打 版 和针 织 服 装 到花 草、园艺 和砌 石 艺 术，丰富 多样。该品牌 的网站 指出，这 样 的安 排为员工 提 供了“ 机会，去理 解 和欣 赏手工 艺作为 一 种 艺 术形式的真正价值。让他们 对自己的工作充 满 了热 情 和干 劲。” 该品牌认为，教育不仅使员工 直接受益，更“ 促进了我们手工艺的光荣复兴，从而使 工作更添 道德 和经济上的尊严”。这种使命感 在品牌官网 上非常清晰 地 展现出来：品牌创始人的哲学理 念与Solomeo小 镇的发展，都和服饰产品系列一 样重要。这 种责任感 和慷 慨赞助为社会的多方 面增 加了价值：它不 仅提高了员工的幸福感、目 标感 和忠诚 度，而且增强了品牌形 象，对 许 多消 费 者来说 更是一个吸引其光顾的重要 特点。 Prada与米 兰 理 工大学 MIP商学院 和法国诺 欧商学院（Neoma Business School）联 手，提 供 国际 奢 侈品管 理硕士 学位，即 IMLux。该课 程 为期12个月，旨在 教会 学 生在 奢 侈精品业内工 作，并 达 到担任 管 理 职 务的最 终目标。IMLux 课 程在 关注商务操作 的同时，更 提 供 对奢 侈品 文化 方面的 深入研究— — 比如说，学 生们 将在 意 大 利度 过一 个 学 期，并学习 “意 大 利制造 的卓 越 之处”。 Polimoda学 校 还 积极 推动 意 大 利，尤其是 佛罗伦萨，在 全 球 文化背景下展现自己的特 色。Venturi先 生说：“ Polimoda立 足佛罗伦萨，但 业务 遍 及 全 球。因此，我们 始 终 致力于在佛罗 伦萨 和 世界 各地 的城 市之间架起 桥梁。”他认 globalblue.com

为，时尚 教育 在 这一 过 程中具 有 其 独特的作 用：“佛罗伦萨 是 一座 艺 术 之 城；时尚是 一 种 文 化产业，从艺 术中获得 养料，并可以 生 产出艺 术品。对 我们 来说，这 就像文化 旅 游 一样。它不 是 基于对 城 市的 被动 剥削；相反，它促使 我们 探 讨什么样 的未 来 是我们想为子 孙后代创造 的，并将城 市置 于 这 场 辩 论 的中心。” 通 过 把 教育 放 在优先 位 置，意 大 利最 负 盛 名的奢 侈品牌 和时尚 教育机 构将 保 护 好意 大 利 的 文化 遗 产，并 保 持意 大 利制造标准 的世界 级 声 誉。

50: HIGHLY DESIRABLE 璀璨魅惑 对 于 制作精美绝伦的珠宝 首饰，意 大 利 拥有悠久的传统，如今，该国富 有创意 的公司正在 进一 步提高自己的专业水 平。Lucinda Turner为您详述当代意大 利 高级珠宝的兴起 从佛罗伦萨古老街 巷上 的老字号 精品店，到米 兰蒙特 拿破仑大街上 的奢 侈大 牌，意 大 利拥有 许 多 技 艺精湛 的珠 宝创意 殿 堂。在每 位品味 独 具 的游 客 心目中，意 大 利珠 宝 总是 排 在其 购物 清单前列。近年来，对 该国主导品牌高级 珠 宝 的需 求更是不断 增 长。 大多 数顾客 很容易认识 到时尚珠宝与高级 珠宝之间的区别。高级 珠宝可媲 美设 计师的高 级定制服饰，每一 件都展现出高超的品质 和精 妙的细 节处 理，奢华 绝伦；高级 珠宝 所使用的 宝石更加光 彩夺目，技 术也 更加精湛复杂，是 工 艺手法与艺 术形式的终极结合。 近年来，随着 市场需 求 激 增，客户心甘情愿为这些 令人惊 叹 的独特 作品支付 六位 数的价格。 一些世界最大 的珠宝商会在一 年两次的巴黎高级时装周上， 展出许 多高级 珠宝系列。而 对于那些真正懂行 的人士来说，意 大 利才是真正的宝 藏 所在。 Buccellati是 米 兰 最 负 盛名且 历史 悠久 的珠 宝商之一，在 过去的一 个 世 纪中，如导 航仪 般 引领着意 大 利珠 宝 市场的发 展。自1919年以

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来，这 家公司一直 在 米 兰设 计并 生 产其 经典 华 丽的作品，最 近 更 研发了一 种 新 的钻石切割方 式以庆祝 品牌百年诞 辰，并将其运用在高级 珠 宝制作中。经 过一 年多的开发，Buccellati切割 而成 的钻石有57个 切面，按照严格 的比例以优 化 反 射的光 量，从而提 供高级 珠 宝 市场所要求 的那 种 超 高奢 华 专属感。 这 些 精 美 的宝石被 镶 嵌在 Buccellati最漂 亮的耳 环、项链、腕 表甚 至 金色 iPhone外 壳的醒目位 置。该品牌 巧妙 地 平 衡了新与旧之间的关系，在 从希腊、罗马神 话 以 及 意 大 利古典艺 术中汲取灵 感 的同时，也 迎 合 当今高级 珠 宝 市场上 至 关 重要 的消费 者 — —摩登的千禧一代。 珠 宝商 Delfina Delettrez- Fendi比 她 很多同 行更了解千禧 珠 宝 市场，因为 她 本人 就 属于 这 一 财务实力雄 厚的 群 体。 当她 在 2007年创立自 己的同名品牌 时，她 的最初 想法 是为 精 致高 雅 的珠 宝 市场 带来乐趣 和朋克 精神。 然而，在客 户对 定制珠 宝 和独一 无 二款 珠 宝的需 求异常旺 盛的形势下，Delettrez决定 将经 营方针转向高 级 珠 宝。 该品牌 现已完 全 停止使 用半宝石，而 只专注于14克 拉 黄金、铂 金、白色钻石和诸如水 锰 矿 和沙弗 莱 石等宝石。 将高级 珠 宝作为 一 种 艺 术形式 来 看待，新 的 Tourbillon“ 陀飞 轮”系列 展 示了如科 学仪器 般 精密 转 动的 首饰。 “ 我 对 机 械 发明很 着 迷，” Delettrez告诉《女 装日报》 （WWD）。“ 我 真 的很喜 欢创造 珠 宝，使 珍珠 等元 素不 仅富 有装饰 性，而且具 有 特定 的功 能。” 虽然 在 大众 眼 里，高级 珠 宝世界如同专属 于某 类 人士的俱乐 部，非请勿入，但 Delettrez却 独 辟 蹊 径。她说：“ 刚开始时，我 享受了违 反 规 则的乐趣，倒不是故 意要反叛，而是因为 我 不 了解 珠 宝 首饰 行业的 规 则。” 通 过 提 供 崭 新 的 思 路 并从 精 美 珠 宝到高级 珠 宝慢 慢 发 展 她 的品 牌，Delettrez得以 扩大 她 的客户群，并 吸引了年 轻 受 众 进 入高级 珠 宝的 精英世界。 意 大 利最大的两家时装 公司古驰（Gucci） 和阿 玛尼（Armani）都于2019年 推出了首个高 级 珠 宝 系列。两个品牌 均以其 奢 侈品著 称，而 高级 珠 宝品类 的 加入似乎 是 顺 理 成 章的自然 发 展。这两家公司都 各自拥有忠实的客户群 体 和 全 球受 众，期 待 着品牌 推出的每一 个令人惊 叹 的新产品。 Gucci将其 首次 进军 高级 珠 宝 市场 的过 程 描 述为“ 将高级 珠 宝 所 囊 括 的珍 贵宇宙 进行 现代化演 变 ”，正是 这 种摩登 诠 释 让客户心 怀向往、倾 情 等待。 米 兰 珠 宝商Sabbadini自1940年以 来一直创 作经典珠宝，如今它则以其当代高级珠宝而闻 名。首席执 行官Pierandrea Sabbadini表 示：“女性 globalblue.com

在购买经典款 式 如结 婚戒指或传统的钻石耳环 后，总是试图寻找些不同的东西。”通 过在其设 计中采用最先进的 技 术 和材料（例如钛、陶瓷 和 雕刻石），这家公司吸引了一群忠实的追随者， 他们所要求的作品既拥有高级珠宝的奢华，又 展现时尚珠宝那种引人注目的古灵精怪。 在 过去的十 年中，对高级 珠 宝的需 求呈 指 数 增 长，据 Sabbadini先 生说，成 功的珠 宝商必 须掌 握多 个市场。他 解 释 道：“ 我想，今 天要成 为 一名优秀 的珠 宝商，您必 须 拥有价 格从3, 000 欧 元 到上 无 封顶的各种 款 式，尤其是 那 些 镶 有 非常珍 贵宝石的 首饰。” 除了高级 珠 宝，这 些意 大 利公司都 提 供 价 格 较 为平易的 精 美 珠 宝 系列。 这是各 家品牌 持久 成 功的关 键，因为这 种入门系列为客户提 供了体 验品牌 的 机会，并 使他们能 够发 现 那 些 更 加卓越 非凡的作品。随 着全 球 珠 宝 市场的不 断扩大，并 致力于满足各种品味 和 预 算需 求， 意 大 利领先的当代 珠 宝商正在以一 种完 全 现代 的 方 式 重 塑高级 珠 宝 行业。

86: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购物区中的30多万家商店消费 时，环 球 蓝联购物 退 税 服 务（Global Blue Tax Free Shopping）为 您节省购物 开 销。 每 年 约有两千六百多万名旅客 享用环 球 蓝联

Want to find the hottest tax free shopping spots in Milan, Rome and beyond, and where to find your favourite brands? Scan the QR code to open the Global Blue Mini-Programme and start your tax free shopping journey today.

想要探索米兰、罗马、佛罗伦萨、威尼斯与都 灵的热门购物退税目的地，寻找你钟爱的品牌, 尽情享受意大利购物之旅？ 扫描二维码进入环球蓝联小程序，即刻开启你 的精彩购物退税之旅吧。

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（Global Blue）的购物 退 税 服 务，何不加入他们 的行列？您只需 在 购物时留意 环 球 蓝联 （Global Blue）的蓝 星标 志，或 直 接问询商家是 否提 供环 球 蓝联（Global Blue）退 税 服 务，然 后 遵 循以下简单 的退 税流 程即 可： 1. 购物 消费 无论 您 在哪里 购物，请向商家索要 环 球 蓝联 退 税 表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form）。 2. 申领退 税 在 您 返 程离境前，请 前往 海 关柜台，请海 关 工 作人员在 退 税 表格上 盖章，然 后再到环 球 蓝联 的退 税 点领 取 退 税 款。 联 系方 式： taxfree@ globalblue. com +421 232 111 111 最低消费154.95欧 元即 可申请 退 税，能 够 节省 高达15.5%的商品购买 价。请注 意：您 最 终 收 到 的退 税 款 是 增 值 税 总 额扣减手 续费后的金额。 如果您 选 择当场 现 金 退 税，有些机 场 还 将以 退 税申请 表为单位收取 现 金 退 税手 续费。

You just shine /gioielleriafasoli @fasoli_official /gioielleriafasoli

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 38: THE GREEN LIGHT ЗЕЛЕНЫЙ СВЕТ

В сезоне весна-лето 2020 миланские дизайнеры встали на защиту окружающей среды: от тропических принтов до аксессуаров в форме растений и натуральных тканей, – рассказывает Фани Мари Весна – сезон обновления и возрождения, который прочно ассоциируется с зеленым цветом, поэтому в сезоне весна-лето 2010 шоупоказы в Милане пестрили яркими оттенками, зеленоватыми принтами и даже головными уборами в форме листьев и цветов. Помимо акцента на зеленом цвете, дизайнеры решили заострить внимание на природной тематике и вопросах экологии. Лондонское тренд-бюро WGSN выбрало мятный тон Neo Mint цветом 2020 года, охарактеризовав его, как «оптимистичный»

и «гендерно-нейтральный» оттенок, который «объединяет науку и технологию с природой». Цвета 2019 и 2020 годов, объявленные институтом Pantone, также отражают нашу страсть к природной гамме: коралловый цвет в 2019 году сменился в 2020 классическим синим, который, по словам Pantone, «отражает необъятное вечернее небо». Учитывая, что все больше людей переходит на вегетарианскую диету, а термин «climate emergency» («чрезвычайная климатическая ситуация») даже был назван словом года редакцией Оксфордского словаря, то становится очевидным, что в 2020 году экологическим проблемам будет уделяться самое пристальное внимание. Сверху: Blumarine весна-лето 2020

В Милане шоу Versace весна-лето 2020 закрылось показом ремейка знаменитого «тропического» платья, в котором Дженнифер Лопес появилась на церемонии вручения Grammy Awards в 2000 году. В свое время платье вызвало такой фурор, что в Google посвятили ему отдельную вкладку, которая появляется при поиске фразы «Versace jungle dress». Успех ремейка был ничуть не меньше, чем у оригинала, представленного почти 20 лет назад. В Gucci в сезоне весна-лето 2020 представили серию зеленых нарядов, созданных под руководством креативного директора Алессандро Микеле. Словно по указке WGSN, бренд включил в новую коллекцию мятные костюмы, брюки широкого кроя и шифоновые рубашки в сочетании с ярко-зелеными платьями в горошек, бомберами в расцветке колор-блокинг и атласные костюмы для мужчин и женщин. В Fendi тропические цветочные принты можно было заметить на блестящих куртках и мини-юбках. Шоу-показ, организованный Сильвией Вентурини Фенди и ее командой впервые после смерти креативного директора Карла Лагерфельда, был вдохновлен рассветами и закатами нежного итальянского лета. Шоу получилось тематически нейтральным и запомнилось завершенными образами, дополненными панамами и обувью в одном стиле. Принты Fendi были довольно скромными по сравнению с яркими цветочными узорами Marni. В новом сезоне бренд сделал акцент на колор-блокинге с оттенками зеленого и синего цвета, деконструированных платьях и тропических принтах, а вишенкой на торте стали огромные листья монстеры деликатесной, которые одевали в качестве головных уборов. Креативный директор Франческо Риссо представил свой вариант эко-стиля в коллекции весна-лето 2020, использовав органический хлопок, переработанный текстиль и кожу.

Missoni, известный своим зигзагообразным узором, всегда радует поклонников радужной палитрой и сезон весна-лето 2020 не стал исключением. И хотя фирменные принты резонировали со сдержанными строгими образами,

ФОТО: © GORUNWAY.COM

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не обошлось без цветочных узоров с тропическими зелеными оттенками. Особого внимания заслуживают легкие шифоновые юбки макси с принтами в стиле импрессионизма и полосатые брюки в различных оттенках зеленого. Дизайнер Анджела Миссони также не обошла стороной тему экологичности, вручив моделям лампы Little Sun на солнечных батареях, созданные датско-исландским художником Олафуром Элиассоном. Зеленые образы Salvatore Ferragamo позволяют взглянуть на эко-тренд с другой стороны. Идеальное летнее платье-рубашка с изумрудными античными мотивами на желтом фоне просто создано для отдыха на курортах Итальянской Ривьеры. Зеленый также стал ключевым цветом в коллекции вязанных мини-шортов, кожаных тренчей, вязанных мини-платьев и платьев в пол с открытыми плечами. На комбинезонах и мужских рубашках и брюках можно было заметить бордовые принты с изображением подводного мира, ставшие продолжением природной тематики. Уникальная коллекция Luisa Spagnoli на тему тропиков была вдохновлена нарядами испанских танцовщиц и сочетает темно-зеленые шелковые платья макси и огненно-красные платки. В Blumarine отдали предпочтение преимущественно женственным образам с изящными цветочными узорами, оборками и шифоном. Все, что вам нужно этим летом – это зеленый парчовый костюм и кружевное мини-платье. В Annakiki сделали ставку на гендерно-нейтральные образы в африканской палитре – элегантное платье цвета хаки, кожаный блейзер оверсайз и изумрудные костюмы. Тот факт, что тема экологии получила такое освещение на Миланской неделе моды не может не удивлять, однако это хорошая новость как для дизайнеров, так и для поклонников моды. От брендов, акцентирующих внимание на эко-проблемах, до коллекций, изобилующих тропическими оттенками и принтами, – все говорит о том, что в сезоне весна-лето 2020 нам необходимо взять ответственность за экологическую ситуацию в мире, пока не стало слишком поздно. globalblue.com

44: STYLE WITH SUBSTANCE СТИЛЬ СО СМЫСЛОМ Крупнейшие модные дома Италии внедряют образовательные программы для поддержки местных общин, населения и культуры. Джинджер Роуз Кларк рассказывает о больших брендах с широкой душой Филантропия в итальянской индустрии моды явление отнюдь не новое. Многие ведущие бренды страны делали вклад в реставрацию важных памятников: Bottega Veneta помог восстановить пострадавший от наводнения собор Святого Марка в Венеции, Bulgari – Испанскую Лестницу в Риме, а Fendi – серию римских фонтанов. Некоторые бренды открыли специальные фонды для благотворительных нужд, например, Fondazione Zegna от Ermenegildo Zegna. А в последнее время набирает популярность тренд, в соответствии с которым бренды предпочитают делать вклад в образование. В августе 2019 года в школе моды Polimoda объявили о совместном с Missoni открытии магистратуры по дизайну трикотажа, которая начнет действовать в январе 2010 года. Руководство школы, которая расположена во Флоренции, считает, что совместная работа с модными брендами пойдет на благо студентам. По словам директора школы, Данило Вентури, «сотрудничество с брендами позволит студентам получить ценнейший опыт. Если вы хотите связать свое будущее с индустрией моды, то лучше всего учиться у ее лидеров. Забудьте о книгах — наши учителя, наставники и бренды-партнеры помогают студентам учиться у лидеров. Мы сокращаем разрыв между теорией и практикой». Объединяя усилия, модные бренды и образовательные учреждения также могут помочь в подготовке будущих специалистов. «Процесс создания тканей для одежды значительно отличается от, скажем, создания платья или другого предмета гардероба при помощи вязальной машины, – поясняет креативный директор Анджела Миссони в рекламном видео для новой образовательной

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программы. – Поэтому нам нужны молодые дизайнеры, которые будут специализироваться в первую очередь на трикотаже». Теоретические знания студенты получают от преподавателей школы Polimoda, а практические навыки помогает освоить Missoni. Эффективность такого подхода не оставляет сомнений. «Модные бренды оказывают нам всяческую поддержку и предоставляют студентам уникальную возможность учиться и вдохновляться у современных лидеров индустрии, – говорит Вентури. – Дома моды верят в наших студентов и видят их потенциал». Инвестиции в образование будущих поколений являются залогом долголетия для итальянских брендов и способствуют процессу развития и трансформации индустрии. Образование – это еще один способ внести свой вклад в общество. Брунелло Кучинелли, основатель одноименного кашемирового бренда, пожертвовал средства на восстановление средневекового города Соломео, в котором базируется штаб-квартира бренда. Кучинелли увлекается философией и придерживается гуманистического подхода к развитию значимого для него города, в котором помимо фабрики и фирменных мастерских имеется школа декоративноприкладного искусства. Она была вдохновлена такими провидцами 19-го века, как Джон Раскин и Уильям Моррис, и предлагает различные курсы: от вязания, кройки и шитья до садоводства и работы с камнем. Согласно вебсайту бренда, это дает работникам «возможность понять настоящую ценность мастерства как формы искусства. Это зарядило их энтузиазмом и позволило по-другому взглянуть на свою работу». Руководство бренда полагает, что образование для сотрудников идет «рука об руку с возрождением мастерства, что в свою очередь придает работе новое моральное и экономическое содержание». Это кредо подтверждается при первом взгляде на вебсайт компании, который в равной мере уделяет внимание и философии основателя, и городу Соломео, и коллекциям одежды. Социальная ответственность, проявляющаяся в таком формате, несет в себе целый ряд преимуществ: globalblue.com

благосостояние сотрудников повышается, появляется лояльность и чувство смысла, усиливается идентичность бренда и его популярность среди потребителей.

Prada объединила усилия с MIP Politecnico di Milano и школой бизнеса Neoma, открыв магистратуру по управлению роскошью (IMLux). 12-месячный курс должен познакомить студентов со всеми тонкостям работы в индустрии роскоши и подготовить к управленческой работе. Магистратура IMLux в значительной степени посвящена ведению бизнеса, но в то же время программа включает культурные аспекты роскоши. Так, во время обучения студенты подробно знакомятся с понятием «Made in Italy и всем, что оно олицетворяет». Школа Polimoda также делает все, чтобы вписать Италию, и особенно Флоренцию, в контекст мировой культуры. «Polimoda – это флорентийский проект, который оперирует в мировом масштабе, – говорит Вентури. – Поэтому мы постоянно налаживаем связи между Флоренцией и городами по всему миру». По его мнению, образование в сфере соды играет особую роль в этом процессе: «Флоренция – город искусства, в то время как мода – это индустрия, которая черпает вдохновение в искусстве и дарит миру настоящие шедевры. Для нас – это культурный туризм, который не основан на эксплуатации городов, а напротив, способствует дискуссии о их развитии и о том, какими мы хотим их видеть в будущем». Делая акцент на образовании, итальянские бренды и школы моды сохраняют культурное наследие своей страны и поддерживают всемирно известную репутацию эталона «Made in Italy».

50: HIGHLY DESIRABLE ВЕЧНОЕ СИЯНИЕ Итальянские ювелирные традиции уходят корнями в глубокое прошлое, и современные бренды страны не перестают радовать инновационными украшениями. Люсинда Тернер рассказывает о новинках высокого ювелирного искусства Италии

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Италия является родиной многих выдающихся ювелирных ателье: от знаменитых бутиков на старинных улочках Флоренции до роскошных брендов на миланской Via Montenapoleone. Итальянские украшения всегда пользовались популярностью у приезжающих на шоппинг туристов, но в последние годы спрос на «высокие» ювелирные изделия ведущих брендов страны значительно вырос. Большинство клиентов понимают разницу между бижутерией и ювелирными украшениями, однако есть и третий тип украшений — «высокие» ювелирные изделия, которые можно сравнить с дизайнерскими коллекциями от кутюр, которые предлагают совершенно другой уровень качества, внимания к деталям и роскоши в каждой отдельно взятой вещи. В таких украшениях драгоценные камни сверкают ярче софитов, а техника обработки находится на грани искусства. В последние годы рынок стремительно вырос, и покупатели готовы платить шестизначные суммы за эти уникальные сокровища. Большинство показов кутюрных коллекций украшений проходит дважды в год в Париже во время Недели высокой моды, куда съезжаются крупнейшие ювелиры мира. Не секрет, что самые яркие драгоценности привозят именно из Италии.

Buccellati, один из самых престижных и знаменитых ювелирных брендов Милана, на протяжении последнего столетия был светилом ювелирной индустрии Италии. Компания выпускает изысканные классические коллекции с 1919 года, а в честь столетнего юбилея ювелиры бренда создали фирменную огранку. На разработку бриллианта Buccellati ушло больше года; он имеет 57 граней, выполненных в строжайшей пропорции, которая позволяет максимально оптимизировать преломление света. Все это придает камню дополнительный уровень эксклюзивности, которого требует рынок дизайнерских ювелирных изделий. Камень в новой огранке можно найти в самых разных коллекциях Buccellati: серьгах, ожерельях, часах и даже чехлах для iPhone. Бренд умело сочетает старину и инновации, находя вдохновение в мифологии древних греков и римлян, а также итальянском искусстве. Не остается без внимания и поколение миллениалов, которое Сверху: кольцо с бриллиантом огранки Buccellati

играет первоочередную роль на современном ювелирном рынке. Дельфина Делеттрез-Фенди, не понаслышке знающая о влиянии миллениалов, сама является представителем этого влиятельного в финансовом отношении поколения. Ее бренд Delfina Delettrez-Fendi, основанный в 2007 году, поставил перед собой несколько задач – переосмыслить ювелирную индустрию, сделать ее более юмористичной и привнести в нее атмосферу панка. После небывалого спроса на индивидуальные и эксклюзивные украшения, Делетрез решила уделить внимание «высокому» ювелирному делу. Ее бренд больше не использует полудрагоценные камни, делая акцент на 14-каратном золоте, платине, белых бриллиантах и таких драгоценных камнях, как манганит и цаворит. Новая коллекция Tourbillon, вдохновленная ювелирными украшениями как формой искусства, включает изделия, напоминающие научные инструменты. «Я всегда интересовалась механическими изобретениями, – заявила Делетрез в интервью WWD. – Мне действительно нравится создавать украшения, отдельные элементы которых, например, жемчуг, несут не только декоративную функцию, но и практическую». В то время как мир дизайнерских украшений часто рассматривается как эксклюзивный клуб с доступом исключительно по приглашениям, для Делетрез это совсем не так. «Когда я начинала работать, мне было забавно нарушать правила не потому, что я хотела выглядеть бунтаркой, а просто потому, что я не знала всех правил создания ювелирных изделий», – заявила она. Предлагая новый подход к дизайну и не спеша смещая акцент с обычных ювелирных украшений на «высокие», Делетрез смогла значительно расширить аудиторию поклонников и привлечь молодых покупателей к элитному миру высокого

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ювелирного искусства. Два крупнейших итальянских дома моды, Gucci и Armani, выпустили свои первые коллекции дизайнерских ювелирных украшений в 2019 году. Оба бренда являются лидерами индустрии роскоши и появление новой линии украшений было ожидаемым шагом. Каждый дом уже имеет глобальную аудиторию поклонников, которые с нетерпением ждут появления любых новинок.

Gucci описывает свой ювелирный дебют как «современную эволюцию мира драгоценностей, выраженную в форме украшений от кутюр». Именно такой современной интерпретации давно ждали поклонники модного гиганта. Миланский ювелирный бренд Sabbadini выпускает классические украшения с 1940 года, однако сегодня он известен благодаря коллекциям «высокого» ювелирного дела. «Женщины всегда стремятся к чему-то новому, когда у них уже есть классические украшения, такие как свадебное кольцо или традиционные бриллиантовые серьги», – говорит генеральный директор Пьерандреа Саббадини. Применение передовых технологий и таких материалов, как титан, керамика и резные камни, помогло бренду завоевать лояльных покупателей, которые ценят роскошь высоких ювелирных украшений и привлекательный дизайн бижутерии. За последнее десятилетие спрос на дизайнерские украшения рос в геометрической прогрессии, и, по словам Саббадини, настоящий ювелир должен освоить несколько рынков. «Я думаю, что сегодня, чтобы быть успешным ювелиром, просто необходимо иметь в своей коллекции украшения с уникальными камнями стоимостью от 3000 тысяч евро и выше», – поясняет он. Каждый из этих итальянских домов предлагает как доступные коллекции ювелирных украшений, так и дизайнерские.

Сверху: серьги Sabbadini с желтыми бриллиантами

В этом и кроется секрет их успеха, ведь они открывают для своих поклонников доступ к новому миру прекрасного. Пока мировой ювелирный рынок продолжает расширяться, предлагая широкий выбор на любой вкус и кошелек, ведущие итальянские ювелиры переосмысляют эксклюзивные украшения в современном ключе.

86: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С TAX FREE Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить Tax Free формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.95 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

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38: THE GREEN LIGHT

今期ファッションのメッセージ は「グリーン」

成長と再生の季節、春といえば緑色だ。ミラノで披露 された2020年春夏コレクションでは、大胆な色や草 木柄のプリントがキャットウォークにあふれ、葉や花 を使った帽子や髪飾りも見られた。デザイナーたち は色合いそのものに注目しただけでなく、自然や自 然に優しいサステナビリティイニシアチブからもイン スピレーションを得ている。 ロンドンに拠点を置くトレンド予想会社WGSN は、2020年の流行色の一つに「ネオ・ミント」を挙げ ている。 「楽観的でジェンダーニュートラルな」色 が、科学技術と自然の協調を思わせるからだという。 パントン・カラー・オブ・ザ・イヤーは2019年の色も 2020年の色も、自然界の状態に高い関心を寄せる 今の世情を反映している。2019年の「リビング・コー ラル」に代わり2020年は「クラシック・ブルー」が選 ばれたが、この色はパントンいわく「広大無限な夕方 の空を思わせる」という。ヴィーガニズムを実行する 人が増え、オックスフォード辞書で「クライメート・イ マージェンシー」がワード・オブ・ザ・イヤーに選ばれ る昨今だ。2020年は環境問題がより大きな関心事 になるのは間違いない。 植物の美を愛でるミラノでの2020年春夏、その 決定的瞬間はといえばやはり、ヴェルサーチの代表 作トロピカルリーフ模様のプリントドレスのアップデ ート版が登場した時だろう。2000年のグラミー賞授 賞式でジェニファー・ロペスが着た緑のドレスはイン ターネット上で大いに注目され、 「ヴェルサーチ・ジ ャングルドレス」の検索のあまりの多さにグーグルが グーグルイメージを作ったほどだ。同ブランドの2020 年春夏コレクションショーを締めくくった復刻版ドレ スは、20年近く前にロペスが受賞式で着た時のよう にファッション界に大きな反響を呼んだ。 グッチはクリエイティブディレクター、アレッサン ドロ・ミケーレの下、2020年春夏コレクションで様々 なトーンの緑色を披露した。WGSNの予想通り、ミ ントグリーンがスーツから幅広パンツ、シフォンシャ 上：ルイーザ・スパニョーリ 春/夏2020

ツまで広く使われ、明るい緑色のポルカドットのドレ ス、カラーブロックで構成されたボマージャケット、 男女用のサテンのスーツなども交えて披露された。 一方フェンディでは、豊かな光沢のジャケットや ミニスカートにトロピカルな花模様が見られた。シル ヴィア・ヴェントゥリーニ・フェンディとそのチームが クリエイティブディレクターのカール・ラガーフェルド の死後初めてこの行ったショーは、かぐわしいイタリ アの夏をイメージしたものだ。お揃いのバケットハッ トと靴で頭の先からつま先まで完璧にキメたルック スは、それ以外はニュートラルなテーマのショーの中 で特に目立つ。 控えめなフェンディのプリントに比べ、 マルニの プリントは鮮やかな花模様だった。活気あふれるシ ョーの目玉は、グリーンとブルーのカラーブロック構 成のルックスや、ディコンストラクテッド（解体構築 的）なドレス、トロピカルとジャングルを掛け合わせた ようなプリントなど。中でも極めつけはホウライショ ウの葉の帽子だった。クリエイティブディレクターの フランチェスコ・リッソはオーガニックコットンやアッ

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

トロピカルプリントから植物をモチーフにし たアクセサリー、ナチュラルでサステナブル な生地まで、ミラノのデザイナーは2020年の 春夏コレクションで「グリーン」を前面に押 し出している。ファニ・マリがレポートする。

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プサイクルしたテキスタイル、再利用されたレザーな どを中心とした2020年春夏コレクションで、サステナ ビリティをお洒落に見せた。 象徴的なジグザクニットで知られるミッソーニは いつもカラフルなコレクションを繰り出してくるが、今 回も例外ではなかった。プリントと控えめなテーラリ ングをバランスよく配した中に、トロピカルグリーンや 花模様が登場。中でも出色は、印象派風の花模様 が踊る軽いシフォンのマキシスカートと、様々なグリ ーンを使ったストライプのパンツだった。デザイナー のアンジェラ・ミッソーニはリッソと同じく、エコロジ ーに関する主張をショーに盛り込もうとした。モデル たちがショーのフィナーレで、グローバル気候マーチ に敬意を表してオラファー・エリアソンがデザインし た「リトルサン」ソーラーライトを持って勢ぞろいした のだ。 サルヴァトーレ・フェラガモのグリーンルックは、 このトレンドを独自の解釈で見せた。古代ローマをヒ ントにしたモチーフを黄色地にアイヴィグリーンでプ リントしたフワッと軽い完璧なサマーシャツドレス は、イタリアンリビエラでの休暇でビキニの上に重ね るためにデザインされたもの。ニットのミニショーツ、 革のトレンチコート、クロシェ編みのミニドレス、オフ ショルダーのマキシにヴァーダントグリーンが使わ れていたほか、シャンプスーツやメンズのシャツとパ ンツに深い海老茶色で植物の柄をプリントし、自然 の色のトレンドを単なるグリーンだけでなく広げて衣 服に展開している。 ジャングルのテーマをユニークに解釈したルイ ザ・スパニョーリのデザインは、スペインのダンス衣 裳にインスピレーションを得たもので、森の深緑のシ ルクマキシに火のように赤いヘッドスカーフを組み合 わせて見せた。ブルマリンではデリケートな花柄やフ リル、シフォンなど、自然をいかにも女性らしい表現 で追究した。このブランドが緑色で繰り出したブロケ ードのスーツやレースのミニドレスがあれば、夏の衣 裳は完璧だ。アンナキキはサファリトーンをカーキの ステイトメントドレスや大ぶりのレザーのブレザー、 森林色のスーツに使い、両性的ルックスで女性らし さを表現できることを証明した。 ミラノ・ファッションウィークに気候変動に関す る強い主張を打ち出すという要素があったのは意外 かもしれないが、これはデザイナーにとっても消費者 にとっても歓迎すべき方向性だ。自然保護問題に直 接触れるブランドもあれば、トロピカルなトーンやジ ャングルプリントを披露したコレクションもあり、ミラ ノ発の2020年春夏のメッセージは明らかに「手遅れ になる前に手を打ち、環境に良い方向の変化をもた らす必要がある」だ。

44: STYLE WITH SUBSTANCE 中身のあるスタイル イタリアの高級ファッション会社が、地元の コミュニティや社会、文化を支援する手段と して教育に目を向けている。寛大な心を持 ったビッグブランドをジンジャー・ローズ・ク ラークがが紹介する。 イタリアのファッション業界では慈善は目新しいもの ではなく、この国の一流高級ブランドの多くが有名な ランドマークの修復に貢献してきた。例えばボッテ ガ・ヴェネタは洪水に見舞われたベニスのサン・マル コ寺院のバシリカの復旧を支援しているし、ブルガリ はローマのスペイン階段の修復資金を提供した。フェ ンディもローマを中心に「フェンディ・フォー・ファウン テンズ」を展開している。また、エルメネジルド・ゼニ ア のゼニア財団など、様々な慈善事業への寄付を目 的とした財団をいくつかのレーベルが設立してきた。

上（左から）：フェンディ 春/夏 2020; ポリモーダのニットウェア博士課程に協力するアンジェラ・ミッソーニ

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そうした利他的な動きに最近新たなトレンドがでて きた。ブランドが教育に投資しだしたのだ。 2019年8月にポリモーダ・ファッションスクール が、ミッソーニと共同で2020年1月からニットウェアデ ザインの修士号課程を設立すると発表した。フィレン ツェを拠点とするこの機関では有名高級ブランドとの 協働が学生にとって重要な礎になると考えていると、 ポリモーダ理事のダニーロ・ヴェントゥーリはいう。 「 ファッションブランドとのパートナーシップを通じて、 学生は実地学習ができます。ファッション界で働きた いなら、業界から直接学ぶことが肝要なのです。教 科書なんて忘れていいんです。当校の教授陣や指導 者、ブランドパートナーのおかげで業界トップから学 ぶことができるのですから。教育と業界のギャップを 埋めることこそがポリモーダの役割なのです。」 高級ブランドとファッション教育機関が手を組め ば、将来のためにスキルを持った労働力を確保する 上でも役立つ。クリエイティブディレクターのアンジェ ラ・ミッソーニがこの新コースのプロモーションビデ オでこう語っている。 「洋服の服地をデザインするこ とと、編み機から直接ドレスや衣装を創り出すことは 全く異なります。だからニットウェアを専門とする若手 デザイナーが必要なのです。」 学生はポリモーダから技術を教わり、ミッソーニ からは実践的なサポートを受ける。お互いに相乗効 果があるのは明らかだ。 「高級ブランドが当校に投資 してくれています。学生が現代のファッションリーダー から刺激的な話を聞いて自分の宝にしていく機会を それらのブランドが必ず与えてくれると、私たちは信 頼しています」とヴェントゥーリ。 「高級ブランドは私 たちと同じくらい学生の力を信じ、ポテンシャルを見 出してくれています。」イタリアの高級ブランドは将来 の世代の教育に積極的に投資することにより自社の 寿命を延ばし、常に新しく生まれ変わるサイクルを作 っているのだ。 教育はまた、地元コミュニティへの還元手段でも ある。同名のカシミアレーベルを創設したブルネロ ク チネリは、ブランドの拠点である中世の町ソロメオを 復興してきた。哲学好きのクチネリはソロメオの開発 にあたってヒューマニスト的なアプローチを採り、自 社の工場と工房に加えて「フォロ・デッレ・アルティ（ アートフォーラム）」の一環として芸術と工芸の学校 を設立しました。ジョン・ラスキン、ウィリアム・モリス といった19世紀の先見者からインスピレーションを 得た同校では、テーラリング、パターン裁断、ニットウ ェアからガーデニング、園芸、石工技術に至るまで様 々なコースを提供している。同ブランドのウェブサイト によると、これにより従業員に「芸術の一つの形とし ての職人技の真の価値を理解し評価する機会が与 globalblue.com

えられている」という。 「従業員は自分の仕事に情熱 を持ち、張り切って臨むようになりました。」 同レーベルでは従業員教育の恩恵は「わが社の 職人技が見事に復活し、仕事に道徳上、経済上の尊 厳が加わったことに密接に関係している」と考えてい る。こうした精神は、コレクションはもちろんブランド 創立者の哲学やソロメオにも同様に焦点を当ててい る同社のウェブサイトを見れば明らかだ。この種の社 会的責任や支援活動は様々な形で価値を付加する。 従業員の福祉の増進や目的意識、忠誠心の強化の みならず、ブランドアイデンティティの強化にもつなが り、多くの顧客にとっても魅力的な特徴となる。 プラダはミラノ工科大学、ネオマ・ビジネススクー ルと共同でラグジュアリーマネジメントの国際修士課 程（IMLux）を創設した。12ヶ月のこのコースでは高 級品業界の仕事の一部始終を教え、最終的には管 理職に就けるようにすることを目指している。IMLux コースはビジネス主体の内容だが、学期中をイタリア で過ごす学生は素晴らしい「メイド・イン・イタリア」 の醍醐味を学ぶなど、高級品の文化的側面について も深い洞察を提供する。 ポリモーダは世界の文化におけるイタリア、特に フィレンツェの位置づけにも積極的に関わっている。 「当校はフィレンツェの学校ですが、世界的規模で 活動しています」とヴェントゥーリはいう。 「ですから、 フィレンツェと世界各都市との架け橋を造り続けてい るのです。」そのプロセスの中でファッション教育は 独特の役割を担っていると、彼は考えている。 「フィレ ンツェは芸術都市。そして、ファッションは芸術に根 差した文化的産業であり、芸術作品を創り出すこと

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ができる産業でもあります。私たちにとってこれは文 化観光。都市の恩恵をただ受け身で享受するのでな く、次世代のためにどういった将来を形づくるかとい う議論の中心に都市を置くのです。」 教育を優先することによって、イタリアの最も由 緒ある高級ブランドやファッション機関は国の文化 遺産を守り、 「メイド・イン・イタリア」という基準の世 界的評判を維持している。

50: HIGHLY DESIRABLE 羨 望のジュエリー

イタリアは昔からこの上なく美しいファイン ジュエリーを生み出してきた国。そのイタリ アで今、革新的なジュエラーがさらなる高 みを目指し腕を競っている。ルシンダ・ター ナーが、人気高まる現代イタリアンハイジュ エリーを取材した。

PHOTO: CESARE GUALDONI

イタリアにはフィレンツェの歴史香る通りにある老舗 ブティックから、ミラノのモンテナポレオーネ通りの 高級ブランドまで、優れたジュエリーアトリエが多 い。イタリアの宝石は目利きのショッピングリストの 上位に必ず挙がるアイテムだが、近年はイタリアの一 流ファッションレーベルが提供するハイジュエリー への需要が高まっている。 クライアントはコスチュームジュエリーとファイン ジュエリーの違いがわかる人がほとんどだが、ハイジ ュエリーはデザイナーのクチュールコレクションのよ うなもので、一段と高い品質、細部へのこだわり、一 品モノの一つ一つに漂う贅沢感が魅力だ。石はブリ

リアンス（光輝）が高く、複雑で繊細なテクニックに よって職人技と芸術が溶け合った究極の作品とな る。見事でユニークな作品に数千万円を支払っても いいというクライアントのおかげで、ハイジュエリー 市場はここ数年急騰している。ハイジュエリーコレク ションは、パリのオートクチュールファッションウィー クで二年に一度、世界の一部大手ジュエラーがたく さん披露するが、通にとって本物の掘り出し物はや はりイタリアにある。 権威と伝統を誇るミラノ有数のジュエラーの一 つ、ブチェラッティは、過去一世紀にわたりイタリア のジュエリー市場を先導してきた。1919年以来、古 典的で装飾性の高いデザインのジュエリーをミラノ で作り続け、100周年を記念して考案した新たなダイ ヤモンドカットは同社のハイジュエリーの目玉になっ ている。ブチェラッティカットのダイヤモンドは57面 で、開発に1年以上かかった。厳密な比率でカットさ れ反射光を最適化したこのカットは、ハイジュエリー 市場で求められる一段上の特別感を実現している。 その見事なダイヤモンドは、ブチェラッティのこの上な く美しいイヤリングやネックレス、腕時計の主役に据 えられ、さらにはゴールドのiPhoneケースにも使われ ている。このブランドでは、ギリシアやローマの神 話、イタリアの古典芸術にヒントを得て古きと新しき の絶妙なバランスを実現する一方、今日のハイジュエ リー市場で重要な位置を占める現代的なミレニアル 世代の消費者も大切にしている。 デルフィナ・デレトレズ・フェンディは、財力のあ るこの世代に属し、ミレニアルのジュエリー市場を熟 知するジュエラーだ。彼女が2007年に自身の名を冠 したブランドを立ち上げた時、ファインジュエリー市 場に楽しさとパンク精神を持ち込みたいというのが

上：サバディーニのミラノブティック

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そもそもの発想だったが、特注の一品モノを求める 顧客が圧倒的に多かったため、ハイジュエリーの世 界への進出を決めた。現在、このブランドは半貴石 を使うのを完全に止め、14カラットの金やプラチ ナ、 ホワイトダイヤモンドとマンガナイトやツァボライ トと いった貴石を専ら使用している。芸術としてのハ イジ ュエリーという概念をインスピレーションとする 新コ レクション「トゥールビヨン」では、科学機器の よう な精密さで動く作品を披露している。 「機械発 明に 興味があるんです。たとえば真珠という要素が 単な る装飾ではなく特殊な機能を果たしているよう なジ ュエリーを作るのが本当に楽しい」と、デレトレ ズは WWDの取材で語っている。 ハイジュエリー の世界はいかにも特別で招待客 しか入れないクラ ブのような印象を持たれることが 多いが、デレトレズ のアプローチは全く違う。 「始め た頃はルール破り が楽しかった。別に意図して反抗 したわけではなく て、ジュエリーのルールを知らなか っただけ」とい う。新鮮な息吹を吹き込み、ブランド をファインジュ エリーからハイジュエリーへじっくり 発展させてきた ことで、デレトレズは顧客ベースを拡 大し、ハイジュ エリーのエリート世界へ比較的若い 年代層を誘うの に成功してきた。 イタリアの大手ファッションハウ ス、グッチとアル マーニは共に、2019年に初のハイ ジュエリーコレク ションを発売した。どちらのブラン ドも高級品で知ら れ、ハイジュエリーを加えたこと は理に適った自然な 展開に思える。共に既に忠実 な顧客層を確立し世界 的に有名なブランドだが、は っとさせるような新商品 の追求に余念がない。グッ チはハイジュエリー市場 への初進出を、 「ハイジュエ リーの貴い世界が現代 的に進化したもの」だとして いる。顧客が待ち望んで いたのは、まさにこの現代 的な解釈だった。 ミラノのジュエラー、サバディーニ は1940年から 古典的ジュエリーを作り続けてきた が、今は現代的 なハイジュエリーで名をはせる。 「女 性は、ウェディン グリングや伝統的なダイヤモンドの イヤリングなど古 典的なジュエリーを買った後、何か 違ったものを常に 探し求めているものです」 と、CEOのピエランドレ ア・サバディーニはいう。同 社は先端技術とチタン、 セラミック、彫刻を施した石 などの材料をコレクショ ンに使うことにより、ハイジ ュエリーの贅沢感と人の 目を引くコスチュームジュエ リーの風変わりな魅力を 兼ね備えたジュエリーを求 める顧客ファンベースを 確立してきた。 ハイジュエ リーの需要はここ10年ほどで急増し たが、サバディ ーニによれば、その中で成功を収める には複数の市 場を制覇する必要があるという。 「今 の世で良いジ ュエラーと言えるには、3000ユーロ程度のものから 極めて貴重な石を使った天井知らずの価格のものま globalblue.com

でを扱わなければならないのです。」 これらのイタリアンジュエラー各社は、ハイジュ エリーのほか、比較的買いやすいファインジュエリー も提供している。ファインジュエリーは顧客にとって ハイジュエリーへの入口であり、素晴らしいハイジュ エリーを発見してもらうきっかけになるため、成功を 持続するための鍵となるのだ。世界のジュエリー市 場は拡大を続け、様々な好みや予算に合わせたもの を提供し続ける。そんな中、現代イタリアの一流ジュ エラーはハイジュエリーをいかにもモダンに刷新して いる。

86: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 海外でのお買い物が 免税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利 用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街に ある30万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得に なります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。 手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを 踏むだけです。 1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免 税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってく ださい。 2.還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にス タンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの 還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。 お問い合わせ： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.95以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高 15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻 し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を 差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くださ い。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望の 場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課さ れます。

So u v e n i r

Hit Refresh

Established in 1612, Santa Maria Novella is the oldest perfumery in Florence. Renowned around the world for its timeless scents, beautiful packaging and prestigious Made in Italy standard, the brand’s ever-expanding range of cosmetics is certainly worth making room in your suitcase for on your visit to the city. Inspired by the traditional rosewater recipe used by 14th-century Florentine friars, Santa Maria Novella now produces four invigorating body tonic waters: the original herbal Acqua di Erba di Santa Maria, the fresh and floral Acqua di Maggio, the aromatic Acqua di Gigli and Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

the pictured Acqua Soave, featuring refreshing citrus scents and used to soften the skin after bathing. Created with natural ingredients, many sourced from the brand’s own private garden just north of the city, this revitalising water is the perfect remedy for dehydrated summer skin. LT Santa Maria Novella Acqua Soave water, €63, Santa Maria Novella, Via della Scala 16, 50123 Florence, +39 055 216276, smnovella.com

RELAX. REFRESH. REFUND. Our Global Blue Lounges are the perfect places to relax during your shopping trip. Situated in the most fashionable areas of the world’s shopping capitals, the invitation only lounges are a haven for Tax Free Shopping.

Barcelona Passeig de Gràcia, 78

Munich Maximilianstraße 30, 80539

Florence Piazza della Repubblica 6, 50123

Paris 4 rue Cambon, 75001

London 18-19 Albemarle St, W1S 4BB

Rome Piazza di Spagna 29, 00187

Madrid Calle de Claudio Coello 83, 28001

Venice Piscina San Moise’ 2056, 30124

Milan

Via Santo Spirito 5, 20121 New relocation in Via Sant’ Andrea 8, 20121 starting from June