SHOP Italy Style AW15

ITALY | ИТАЛИЯ | 意大利 | イタリア

ITALY

Page 58

Style Edition Autumn/Winter 2015/16

TIMELESS STYLE: the garments that last for generations

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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Германия

Welcome to Italy

Gothenburg Hamburg

Discover the best of this richly cultured country with SHOP. Read about the covetable products of its traditional yet forward-looking stationers on page 68, the 40th anniversary of Giorgio Armani’s eponymous label, and much more.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Italy. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

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Rendez-Vous Night & Day watch Carmen Chaplin, Actor and Director

Open a whole new world

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Jack Hughes Jack Hughes created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Italy.

His sophisticated artwork has previously been commissioned

by Harrods, Burberry and Elle magazine, among others. His imaginative approach makes him a perfect illustrator for this cover, inspired by our feature about the sustainable fashion brand Slowear on page 58. It shows a stylishly dressed man back to back with an older version of himself still wearing the same well-made jacket.

Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

PHOTO: TOBY DUTTON

ILLUSTRATION: JACK HUGHES

CONTRIBUTORS

Sarah Beyts Sarah Beyts, SHOP’s creative editor and deputy picture editor, is responsible for commissioning the magazine’s covers, which are created by some of the world’s best illustrators. In her spare time she enjoys exploring the countryside on foot or by bike and capturing the world through her camera. globalblue.com

Verity Hogan After working for a Mexican magazine and reporting in Romania, history graduate Verity Hogan swapped writing about crinolines and corsets for more contemporary clothes when she moved to London to pursue journalism. She now works as SHOP’s features editor.

HUGOBOSS.COM

HUGO BOSS ITALIA S.P.A. Phone +39 02 451681

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SHOP FLOOR PU BL ISH I NG Publisher James Morris

E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Jack Hughes Contributors Maria Kirchen-Hill, Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Production assistant Katie Muxworthy Features editor Verity Hogan City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/ deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Charlotte Rogers Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Tom Knight

Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Online production assistant Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Aiyang Zou Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak Commercial artworking intern Kiranjeet Kaur Print Dane Consultancy AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Production assistant Sammy Ha Developer Mohammed Haki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution and partnership manager Lara Osuna

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Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication.

Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

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CONTENTS

PHOTO: TODD SELBY

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P RO D U C T S 18 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Italy this season 20 My Favourites Menswear designer Luca Larenza reveals his top tips for autumn/winter 2015/16 22 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 32 Street Style Our pick of Italy’s best dressed for autumn/winter 2015/16 N EWS 34 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Italy 36 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

F E AT U R E S 58 Cover Story: Enduring Style Italian clothing group Slowear is winning a legion of fans by rejecting fast fashion in favour of innovative, long-lasting fabrics, says Josh Sims 68 Paper Trail Italy’s traditional stationers have evolved to meet modern demands without losing any of their time-honoured appeal, as Verity Hogan discovers 78 Man On A Mission As Giorgio Armani celebrates the 40th anniversary of his eponymous fashion house, the designer is still looking to the future, reports Hannah Lewis

Above: lasting fashion from the autumn/winter 2015/16 collection by Incotex, part of the Slowear group

SHOP AT TRUSSARDI.COM

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CONTENTS ESSENTI A LS

E X PE R I E NCE 86 Table Talk Italy’s pizzerias provide an authentic culinary experience, says Isabella Redmond Styles

124 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

T R A N S L AT I O N S 126 Русский Перевод 135 美文翻译 139 日本語翻訳

GU I DE 91 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Rome, Milan, Venice and Florence

SOU V E N I R 146 The essential item to bring home E N GL I S H | Р УС С К И Й | 中 文

ONLINE FASHION

PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

GET SOCIAL Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-theminute shopping tips and insider information.

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PHOTO: FRANCISCO GUERRERO

COMPETITIONS

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CHECK OUT

STEP INTO HISTORY Crafted from rare Russian deer leather salvaged from the wreck of the Metta Catharina, a ship that sank in 1786 and was not recovered for almost two centuries, these made-to-order Oxford brogues are fine examples of the exclusive and bespoke footwear created by artisanal shoe company Stefano Bemer. The age and origins of the leather can be seen in the distinctive colour and texture of the shoes, which are painstakingly handmade by the Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

brand’s expert craftspeople at its workshop in Florence. The label has a worldwide reputation for excellence in bespoke footwear, and has recently expanded to offer a range of ready-to-wear shoes, which are designed and made with the same aim that has carried the company forward since its conception in 1983: creating the perfect Italian shoe. hl Stefano Bemer Metta Catharina Russian deer leather Oxford brogues, €6,500, Stefano Bemer, Via San Niccolò 2, 50125 Florence, +39 055 046 0476, stefanobemer.com

shop loriblu.com

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MY FAVOURITES: LUCA LARENZA Luca Larenza founded his eponymous menswear label in 2008, and was a fnalist in the prestigious Who Is On Next Uomo industry competition three years later. Best known for his innovative knitwear and outerwear, Larenza prides himself on the quality of his label’s clothing, all of which is made by hand in Italy. Here, the Milan-based designer shares his insider tips for autumn/winter 2015/16 with Ximena Daneri 1. ‘The deconstructed handmade baby alpaca coat from my latest collection is timeless, and ultralight and warm at the same time. My inspiration was 1980s New York’

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Luca Larenza coat, €2,800; sweater, €240; cardigan, €350, lucalarenza.com

2. ‘Valentino is my favourite collection of autumn/winter 2015/16’ Valentino, Via Montenapoleone 20, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6182, valentino.com

3. ‘My green Moleskine notebook is always in my bag’ Moleskine notebook, €8.50, Moleskine, Via Dante 15, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7202 2711, moleskine.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

S H O P | 21

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PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

5. ‘Parsley Seed AntiOxidant Hydrator

by Aesop is the best product for stressed skin after long fights’

4. ‘Church’s shoes are classics’ Church’s Enberdy 2 boots, €500, Church’s, Via Tommaso Marino 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7209 4454, church-footwear.com

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globalblue.com

Aesop Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Hydrator, €49, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, aesop.com

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ADD ONS Accessories can make or break an outft: choose wisely 2

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1. Diesel jacket, €380, Diesel, Piazza di Spagna 18, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 6817, diesel.com

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3. Car Shoe driving shoes, €320, Car Shoe, Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina 5, 00186 Rome, +39 06 8938 5111, carshoe.com 4. Hackett carry-on bag, €595, Hackett, Via Manzoni 38, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 5369, hackett.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

PHOTO: (2) CARLO BEVILACQUA

2. Ermenegildo Zegna Couture gloves, €390, Ermenegildo Zegna, Via Montenapoleone 27E, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6437, zegna.com

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GET THE GLOSS Go jet black with patent leather and ceramic jewellery

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1. Burberry scarf, €425, Burberry, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3601 0852, burberry.com

3. Alexandra de Curtis mini bucket bag, €400, Bagheera, Piazza Euclide 30, 00197 Rome, +39 06 808 6352, alexandradecurtis.com

2. Coccinelle gloves, €69, Coccinelle, Via Manzoni/Via Bigli, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 8161, coccinelle.com

4. Marc Cain hat, €59.90, Marc Cain, Via Borgospesso 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8424 1320, marc-cain.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

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PHOTOS: (2) ICPHOTOGRAPHIE MILANO; (7) JEPPE SØRENSEN

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5. Damiani ceramic and pink gold ring, €1,590, Damiani, Via Montenapoleone 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 8088, damiani.com

7. BeoPlay H6 Rapha Edition headphones, €399, Bang & Olufsen, Viale di Tor di Quinto 25, 00191 Rome, +39 06 333 3799, bang-olufsen.com

6. Pierre Hardy shoes, €740, Antonia, Via Cusani 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8699 8340, pierrehardy.com

8. Native Union Clic marble iPhone case, €79.99, Excelsior, Galleria del Corso 4, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7630 7301, nativeunion.com

globalblue.com

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CASUAL COOL Take the laid-back approach to getting dressed this season

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1. Wood Wood jumper, €220, Dictionary, Corso di Porta Ticinese 46, 20123 Milan, +39 02 835 8212, woodwood.dk

3. Frey Wille bracelet, €580, Frey Wille, Via Montenapoleone 29, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 1241, freywille.com

2. Alberto Guardiani shoes, €220, Coin Excelsior, Via Cola di Rienzo 173, 00192 Rome, +39 06 3600 4298, albertoguardiani.com

4. Marina Rinaldi trousers, €150, Marina Rinaldi, Via Panzani 1R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 238 2343, marinarinaldi.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

PHOTO: (1) MIKKEL TJELLESEN

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Iceberg Downtown Gallery Mary Charteris, DJ and musician London photo Olivier Zahm

Milano - Via Verri 4 ang. Via Bigli Roma - Via del Babuino 87/88 - T. 06 32600221 Riccione - Viale Ceccarini ang. Viale Gramsci - T. 0541 605922 Porto Cervo - La Passeggiata - Casa 3b - T. 0789 92142

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TRUE BLUE

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Stick to varying shades of a single colour for a seamlessly coordinated look 1

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1. Super Duper hat, €275, Luisa Via Roma, Via Roma 19R-21R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 906 4116, superduperhats.com

4. Harris Wharf London coat, €400, Blue Marlin & Co, Via Salaria 244, 00198 Rome, +39 06 855 3551, harriswharfondon.co.uk

2. Swarovski Glam Rock iPhone case, €79, Swarovski, Merceria de l’Orologio, San Marco 256, 30126 Venice, +39 041 521 0618, swarovski.com

5. Senso Zara heels, €185, La Rinascente, Piazza Fiume, 00198 Rome, +39 06 884 1231, senso.it

3. Massimo Dutti bag, €125, Massimo Dutti, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 37B, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7602 3001, massimodutti.com Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

Exceptionally light. Innovatively designed.

Made in Europe.

Lightweight: from 2.3 kg for Spinner 55cm

Made in Europe

MILANO Samsonite Store via San Pietro all’Orto 11 - via Belfiore 6 - C.C. Fiordaliso – ROMA Trunk & Co Store via del Tritone 149 SAMSONITE FACTORY OUTLETS: Cantello (VA) - Corsico (MI) - Vicolungo The Style Outlets (NO) - Serravalle Designer Outlet (AL) - Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets (BO) - Fidenza Village (PR) - Valdichiana Outlet Village (AR) - Barberino Designer Outlet (FI) - Castel Romano Designer Outlet (RM) - Valmontone Outlet (RM)

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BOHO MOJO

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Give a simple maxi dress a lift with statement accessories 1

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1. Dsquared2 handbag, €4,450, Dsquared2, Via Pietro Verri 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8969 1699, dsquared2.com

3. Dodo earrings, €270 each, Dodo, Via del Babuino 27-28, 00187 Rome, +39 06 3601 0289, dodo.it

2. Paula Cademartori shoes, €1,050, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, paulacademartori.com

4. Pinko dress, €450, Pinko, Via Roma 26R-28R, 50122 Florence, +39 055 239 9497, pinko.it

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

PHOTO: (3) TOMMASO VECCHI

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STREET STYLE

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

Italy’s most stylish women prove that the bolder the better, by mixing prints and textures, and embracing bright and beautiful colours

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

S H O P | 33

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SHOP WINDOW

ALL WRAPPED UP Moncler’s thick padded jackets, available in a range of colours, are a winter essential, and visitors to Venice can invest in these wardrobe staples at the brand’s fagship boutique. Designed by Gilles & Boissier, the store’s interior features grey Carnico stone foors, with items from the Moncler and Moncler Grenoble collections Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

for men and women displayed in metal and glass cabinets. Accessories including hats, handbags and footwear, as well as the Moncler Lunettes eyewear collection, are also available. Stock up on essentials to help you brave the elements in the city and on the slopes. sm Moncler, Calle Larga XXII Marzo, San Marco 2033, 30124 Venice, +39 041 296 0605, moncler.com * for map go to page 110

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TOUCH OF GLAMOUR Experimentation with texture is the key theme at Escada Sport for autumn/winter 2015/16. From grey coats with faux-fur details and patterned knits in red and cream to white 90s-inspired padded jackets with overlaid embroidery and burnt orange scarves in velvet, every style is tactile – as are the brand’s evening looks, which include sleek black tops studded with beadwork on the shoulders, to glamorous efect.

Those embarking on a winter sports trip should also check out Escada Sport’s sleek and fattering skiwear. sm Escada, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0753, escada.com * for map go to page 101

PHOTO: ALEXANDER PALACIOS

VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

Italian perfumer Acqua di Parma is known for its distinctive fragrances, including its Colonia collection of eau de colognes. The latest additions to the ever-evolving range take rare ingredients and fascinating destinations as their inspiration: Colonia Intensa Oud, for instance, looks to the perfumemaking traditions of the Middle East. The new Colonia Ambra combines the citrus notes of orange and bergamot of the classic Colonia with the complex scent of rare and precious ambergris, along with cedarwood, rose and patchouli. The elegant result will suit any man with a taste for the fner things in life. fm Acqua di Parma, Via Gesù 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 3307, acquadiparma.com * for map go to page 102

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BEST FOOT FORWARD

MARVELLOUS MARELLA The autumn/winter collection from Marella strikes the perfect balance between informality and sophistication. Materials are of the highest quality and the designs exude elegance, yet this is a wardrobe made for comfort and ease. A winter palette of neutral colours, such as tobacco and caramel, is highlighted with touches of bright green, blue and magenta. Perhaps best of all is the range of winter jackets, warm and cosy in interesting textures and a mix of exquisite fabrics. Tie yours at the waist to maintain a feminine silhouette. mkh Marella, Via del Corso 89-90, 00186 Rome, +39 06 678 5771, marella.com * for map go to page 97 globalblue.com

For authentic Italian style, look no further than footwear specialist Loriblu’s latest autumn/winter collection. Designers Graziano Cuccù and Annarita Pilotti have created a collection that encapsulates their own concept of luxury: expressing individuality through uniqueness, with shoes as the perfect way to do this. From feminine jewelled sandals to chunky boots embellished with chains or gems, the pieces represent the many facets of a stylish woman’s personality. As with all Loriblu’s shoes, each pair is completely designed and made in Italy from the fnest materials. hl Loriblu, Via de’ Tornabuoni 72R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 291143, loriblu.com * for map go to page 116

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SWEET DREAMS Sisley’s Piazza San Babila store in Milan has been given a new look. Called Rich&Raw, the new store concept is inspired

by Bernardo Bertolucci’s flm The Dreamers, set in Paris in 1968 – which is when and where Sisley was launched. The artfully worn interior, with its ‘rich’ oval mirrors and gold details and ‘raw’ exposed brick walls, is designed to evoke an old and once luxurious Parisian apartment now lived in by a free-spirited younger generation. The space, which covers 490 square metres, provides a suitably inspiring setting for the latest

BAUHAUS STYLE Drawing inspiration from its own archives, Fratelli Rossetti has given a Bauhaus spin to its accessories for autumn/winter, updating some of its core styles with the bold lines and contrasting colours of this famous architectural school. Originally launched in 1975, these ankle boots have been reimagined in bold colour Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

sophisticated yet understated clothes and accessories collections from Sisley. fm Sisley, Corso Vittorio Emanuele/ Galleria Passerella, Piazza San Babila, 20121 Milan, +39 02 763881, sisley.com * for map go to page 105

schemes which juxtapose light and dark hues, the Bauhaus-inspired design making use of contrasting textures and shades. The style is already loved for its classic shape and quality materials, and the new design updates its 1970s look for the modern day. mkh Fratelli Rossetti, Salizada San Moisè, San Marco 1477, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 0819, fratellirossetti.com * for map go to page 110

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MORE FOR LESS

Romanian designer Dina Dancu lives and works in Rome. She studied fne art in the city and this creative background is evident throughout her work. Dancu’s creative process starts with a shape; allowing her bags to evolve from this inspires her innovative pieces, which push the boundaries of function and form. Her desire to create beautiful objects led her to start an accessories label, My Mist, in 2013. My Mist is sold in selected boutiques across Italy; all products are handmade in Italy using highquality materials such as leather, linen and faux fur. th Alexandra, Via Paolo Emilio 19-23, 00192 Rome, +39 06 324 3311, mymist.it Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

PHOTO: RENATO CERISOLA

PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES

If you’re serious about fashion, then no trip to Italy is complete without visiting some of the country’s incredible designer outlets. Mantova Outlet Village, for instance, has been designed to look like a typical local village during the Renaissance period, and its location close to a motorway means access to its 110 stylish stores could not be easier. Its sister establishment, Puglia Outlet Village, is just 20km from Bari, another ideal location for visitors looking for a bargain.

With 90 stores ofering amazing reductions on designer goods, along with restaurants, cafés and activities for the whole family, it is one of the country’s best outlet villages. hl Mantova Outlet Village, Via Marco Biagi, 46031 Mantua, +39 0376 25041; Puglia Outlet Village, Via dei Portuali 12, 70056 Molfetta, +39 080 337 0211, fashiondistrict.it

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INTENSE SCENTS Dolce & Gabbana’s latest fragrance releases, Velvet Exotic Leather and Velvet Mimosa Bloom, result from the design duo’s exploration of the ancient traditions of perfumery. Like other fragrances in the Velvet collection, the new scents are built on the olfactory memories of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, and are designed to awake the senses with their intensity.

For men, Exotic Leather recreates the essence of masculine skin, featuring woody notes as well as the complex scent of leather itself. For women, Mimosa Bloom

places the mimosa fower centre stage; mandarin, bergamot, narcissus and violet all further enhance this complex foral fragrance. mkh Dolce & Gabbana, Piazza di Spagna 93-95, 00187 Rome, +39 06 699 1592, dolcegabbana.com * for map go to page 93

URBAN COOL Known for its creative mix of contemporary apparel and homeware, Urban Outftters has arrived in Italy with a shop-in-shop on the second foor of La Rinascente’s newly opened Annex Milano.

The space has been given the recognisably industrial treatment that’s synonymous with the Urban Outftters brand, and is hung with artwork by specially commissioned artists. The store will be housing both new and directional designer brands, including Little White Lies, Somedays Lovin’ and Unif. km La Rinascente Annex Milano, Via Santa Radegonda 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, urbanoutftters.com * for map go to page 105 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

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HOME FROM HOME

VIVA FURLA! Respected Italian brand Furla has just renovated and reopened its Rome fagship. Furla is known for its luxurious handbags – which fuse fashion-forward styles with fun and youthful colours, shapes and textures – a vast range of which can be found in the Rome store. Look out for the Viva Furla bag, the label’s take on the ubiquitous bucket style. This colour-block bag in textured leather is part of Furla’s campaign to add artistic style to the world of accessories. A must-have shape for the season, Furla’s take on the bucket bag is both trend-led and distinctive. hl Furla, Piazza di Spagna 22, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6920 0363, furla.com * for map go to page 93 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

Founded by Milan-based creative Uberta Zambeletti, Wait and See is much more than just a shop. Previously a convent, the space has been lovingly converted into a store more reminiscent of a welcoming private home, making for an appealing shopping environment. This is a space that truly merits the name ‘concept store’, with Zambeletti’s philosophy of ‘la vita è bella’ (‘life is beautiful’) evident throughout. Stocking a wide array of womenswear, accessories, jewellery, objets d’art, stationery and more, Wait & See ofers a modern idea of luxury defned not by cost, but by worth.

Consequently the price range ofers something for every visitor, with individual pieces chosen for their high quality and considered design above all else. mkh Wait and See, Via Santa Marta 14, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7208 0195, waitandsee.it

C RA F T I NG E T E R N I T Y S I N C E 1 755 260 years of continuous history is reflected in the Harmony Collection. A new legacy has dawned.

HARMONY CH RO N O G R A P H

Geneva official watchmaking certification

VENEZIA - Piazza San Marco, 67 - Tel. 041 5230609 VICENZA - Corso Palladio Galleria Porti, 2 - Tel. 0444 546313 www.salvadori-venezia.com

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ECLECTIC CHIC

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

A POWERFUL LOOK The latest creations from Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti line are as elegant as ever, setting brilliant diamonds against the soft, feminine backdrop of pale rose gold. The snake has been a symbol of power since ancient Greek and Roman times, suggesting eternity, renewal and beauty. It is associated with such signifcant fgures as Aphrodite, goddess of love, and Cleopatra, queen of the Nile.

These are the ideals that the Italian fne jewellery house presents in its Serpenti collection, and in the Serpenti Tubogas necklace the concept of feminine power is more central than ever. The curves of the piece sit perfectly against the curves of the wearer’s neck, creating a show-stopping piece of jewellery. hl Bulgari, Via de’ Tornabuoni 56R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 239 6786, bulgari.com * for map go to page 116

PHOTOS (FROM TOP): ANTONIO BARRELLA, STUDIO ORIZZONTE; © GORUNWAY.COM

If there’s one certainty with Miuccia Prada, it is that there are no certainties. Her autumn/winter 2015/16 collection for Miu Miu is a glorious mishmash of colours, patterns, and even eras. Outfts are an exercise in contrasts, with thick houndstooth coats teamed with patent crocodile leather miniskirts.

The efect is a joyous assault on the senses. Oversized buttons are a key motif that unites sometimes disparate looks. This oversized theme was also apparent in the costume jewellery worn by the models who showed the collection. The only area where Prada doesn’t play with proportions is accessories; bags and shoes have a distinctly 1950s feel, albeit with a cartoon-like Miu Miu makeover. th Miu Miu, Salizada San Moisè, San Marco 1471, 30124 Venice, +39 041 810 6066, miumiu.com * for map go to page 110

this is where we tell you what to wear

diesel.com

Diesel Planet Store Milan piazza San Babila, 1/3 Diesel Store Florence via dei Lamberti, 13/ R e via Speziali, 3R Diesel Store Venice S. Marco, 5315-16 (Ponte di Rialto) Diesel Store c/o Venice Airport Marco Polo - unitĂ 7 Diesel Corner Venice c/o Coin Excelsior Cannaregio, 5787 Diesel Store Verona viale Mazzini, 68 Diesel Flagship Store Rome piazza di Spagna, 18 - angolo vicolo del Bottino Diesel Store Rome via del Corso, 118 Diesel Corner Rome c/o Coin Excelsior via Cola di Rienzo, 173

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BLUEPRINT FOR SUCCESS

CARTOON CAPERS Jeremy Scott knows how to make fashion fun, and his colourful and playful creations for Moschino have won him a host of famous fans – including Vogue Japan’s editor at large Anna Dello Russo and star blogger Chiara Ferragni. This autumn/winter season he has opted for a cartoon theme. Highlights of the collection include long padded jackets in all the colours of the rainbow, leather quilted skirt-and-crop-top combinations and, most importantly, long sweatshirts and baseball-style tops featuring his favourite Looney Tunes characters. fm Moschino, Via Sant’Andrea 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0832, moschino.com * for map go to page 106 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

A Tod’s bag has always been about understated luxury and exquisite craftsmanship, and the new Architect bag is no exception.

The multifunctional, extendable model is the result of a unique collaboration with Japanese design studio Nendo and its chief designer, Oki Sato, and is – as its name suggests – intended to carry blueprints, plans and sketches. At its most spacious, the Architect can hold several A3-sized drawings; folding it in half creates two compartments for A4-sized documents. The handles can also be tucked away to transform the bag into a clutch. Available in several colourways, the Architect also features the brand’s signature double stripe on the front. th Tod’s, Via de’ Tornabuoni 60R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 219423, tods.com * for map go to page 116

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BASICALLY BRILLIANT Scandinavian style has always embraced the ‘less is more’ ethos, but this season Swedish brand Cos has taken minimalism a step further, stripping back its menswear collection to focus solely on the essentials. Collarless grey wool blazers are held together by metal clips, while outerwear details are kept hidden, as in a midnight blue hooded dufel coat concealing a removable inner technical jacket.

This allows the simple, classic materials – including felted wool, padded white cotton poplin and Japanese-inspired cloth – to take centre stage. Simplicity also dominates when it comes to accessories, with winter sandals in grey felted wool, traditional black leather derby lace-ups and a drawstring

gym bag with matching black leather gloves rounding of a stunning collection. rp Cos, Via della Spada 1, 50123 Florence, +39 055 281093, cosstores.com * for map go to page 116

COLOUR MAGIC Give your winter wardrobe a bold colour injection with this warm orange Vero bag from luxury leather goods specialist Inniu.

This model is one of the brand’s classic shapes, here made from luxurious ostrich skin, and like all Inniu products it is designed and made in Italy, where the brand’s skilled artisans focus on creating classic and beautiful pieces for the modern woman. The team at Inniu chose the Venetian carnival mask as its emblem, feeling that its air of mystery and glamour refected their own design ideals.

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

As on many of the label’s pieces, this motif makes a charming clasp for the Vero bag. mkh Inniu, Piazza degli Strozzi 10R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 274 1128, inniu.it * for map go to page 116

MILANO - Piazza Duomo 19 contacts: +39 02 87 40 10 info@cielo.it

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BIGGER AND BETTER

WINNING CONCEPT Founded in 2008 by fashion enthusiasts Ezia Degiovanini and Tomomiysu Iwata, N30 Milano is a multibrand store that is recognised as a landmark in international fashion. This destination houses collections from young designers and labels including Cristiano Burani, Alessia Xoccato, Giannico, Rochas, Antonio Berardi and Laura Strambi. Designers are chosen for their trendsetting garments and jewellery, resulting in an eclectic mix of oferings. Take time to admire the window display overseen by the store’s visual art director and buyer Francesco Biacca, who works with the featured designers to create beautiful installations. km N30 Milan, Via della Spiga 30, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7377, n30milano.com * for map go to page 102 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

Valentino’s new fagship in Rome’s Piazza di Spagna is its largest to date, covering an impressive 1,865 square metres, and is a testament to the Italian brand’s commitment to expansion.

The store concept was developed by creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, in partnership with architect David Chipperfeld, and focuses on the subtle use of luxurious materials such as marble, oak and leather.

Stocking both menswear and womenswear, it is the frst Valentino store in Italy to carry the men’s made-to-measure denim collection. th Valentino, Piazza di Spagna 38, 00187 Rome, +39 06 9451 5710, valentino.com * for map go to page 93

Milano: MIROGLIO PIAZZA DELLA SCALA Via Verdi 2 ang. Via Manzoni Milano: Via Dante 4 - Corso Buenos Aires 15 Roma: Via Nazionale 197 - Via Frattina 11-12 Rimini: Corso D’Augusto 83 Firenze: Via Dei Tosinghi 8-10/R

www.henrycottons.com

Campo San Luca, 4574 - Venezia

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HOT SPOT Combining intriguing fashion and original art, Milan’s Wok Store is sure to ignite your passion for shopping. Thanks to collaborations with galleries such as London’s JaguarShoes, you’ll fnd items of contemporary art handpicked by owners Federica Zambon and Simona Citarella dotted about the eclectic space, along with clothing by well-known labels such as Kenzo and Maison Margiela as well as lesser-known designers including Arielle de Pinto. sm Wok Store, Viale Col di Lana 5A, 20136 Milan, +39 02 8982 9700, wok-store.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

IN THE ZONE With its fashion-forward selection, Antonia is a multibrand boutique that should be on every shopper’s checklist. Designed by renowned Italian architect Vincenzo de Cotiis, the store has three distinct departments covering 600 square metres in total. In the womenswear zone, established brands and avant-garde labels await the discerning client. The same can also be said of the menswear section, where ready-to-wear clothing and accessories vie for attention. The store’s eponymous owner travels the world to source the shoes, bags and small leather goods that form the accessories section. Located in the hip Brera area, Antonia is a favourite of fashion editors and celebrities alike. th Antonia, Via Cusani 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8699 8340, antonia.it

PHOTO: TODD SELBY

ENDURING ENDURING STYLE STYLE Italian clothing group Slowear is rejecting fast fashion in favour of innovative, long-lasting fabrics, says Josh Sims

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even if it’s an odd word,’ says the group’s co-founder Roberto Compagno, whose Venice-based Incotex family clothing business, established by his father, began trading in 1951. ‘We’re against fast fashion in the way the slow food movement is against fast food.

That idea was pretty exotic just 10 years ago and a lot of people in the industry thought we were pretty strange guys. Now it’s more widely understood.’

In keeping with a niche

PHOTOS: © ANDREA SOTTANA

y the reckoning of fast fashion – a model that ofers a rapid turnover of very current styles at very afordable, almost disposable prices – Slowear sounds positively old-fashioned, which is one thing a clothing company can ill aford to be.

However, the Italian clothing group is, as its name suggests, in no hurry to deliver radical changes of style to drive sales.

‘Slowear seemed like the right summation of our philosophy,

Previous page: a pair of Incotex’s deceptively high-tech trousers Above (from top): Zanone knitwear; Incotex trousers 126 /

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consumerism that demands sustainability and cradle-to-grave design in other products, Slowear aims to bring the same standard to clothing. Compagno believes that, just as a growing interest in provenance is being applied to foodstufs, it will also be applied to clothing, especially as the fashion consumer’s understanding of manufacturing, margins and build quality improves, in large part thanks to the internet.

To this end, the company has an unusual structure. The original Incotex business began by making military uniforms before specialising in trousers, ‘and over time there was really nothing we could do with trousers that we hadn’t done, so we started to apply the same idea to other products’, says Compagno. A spate of

Above (from top): Slowear store on Milan’s Via Solferino; Slowear jackets are designed to remain stylish year afer year

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acquisitions saw it take under its umbrella other little-known but best-in-class specialists, including Glanshirt in shirts, Montedoro in outerwear and Zanone in knitwear, and launch a new clothing line, Archivio, based around fabrics from the Incotex archive.

These ‘slower brands’, as Compagno calls them, still remain, sold both wholesale and behind the fascias of a growing number of Ofcina Slowear stores.

A second Paris store opened recently, as did one in Padua, with many more shops in the ofng, including one in New York.

Slowear is picking up speed.

Then there is its approach to design. Rather than create seasonal collections, it launches new products regularly, but as and when it sees ft: when, in short, its technical department – which absorbs 5% of turnover in research and development – has created something new. It has an

impressive track record in this.

Among its proprietary fabrics are Chinolino, a cotton/linen blend that retains the breathability of the latter and the softness of the former, or Incochino, a yarndyed gabardine with a three-way construction that took fve years to develop. There is also Flexwool, Ice Cotton and Shade Cashmere – all of which are high-tech without looking it.

The company can also lay claim to a pioneering garmentdyeing technique – applying dye to the fnished garment rather than making it up from dyed fabric.

Production is meticulous, too: each Glanshirt shirt, for instance,

The brand promotes longevity of use over fashion’s fleetingness

Above: crafsmanship is a key part of the Slowear approach

made for the modern trail

introducing the black forest collection.

Apparel, Footwear & Accessories Timberland.com

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is washed three times using a process that does not distress the fabric but gives it a lived-in feel.

‘There are plenty of stories of old Italian companies still doing it now as they did decades or centuries ago,’ says Compagno.

‘But that’s really not us. We use the most technically advanced machinery on the market with the intention of pushing innovation to make the best products. Our thinking is that if you get the ft and proportions right, these are clothes that will still work and still look modern in 50 years. Ours is an approach that, I think, is forward-looking. Making poor quality or insanely expensive products just doesn’t seem right for the times now. Consumers want to take a more personal approach to fnding products that Above: Glanshirt shirts

are right for them. The recession has meant they care less about brands. They want innovation and quality at a reasonable price.’

That applies to the shopping experience as well. As if to underline the company’s valuefor-money philosophy, interiors budgets are kept tight: there’s no marble or expensive glass.

That, as Compagno notes, just wouldn’t be right for a brand that is championing substance over fashiness, longevity of use over fashion’s feetingness. ‘In recent years fashion, almost by defnition, hasn’t looked to quality because there has been no point,’ he says. ‘The fashion is over before you know it. But that approach is changing. And brands will have to change, too.’ slowear.com

PAPER TRAIL

Without sacrifcing their time-honoured charm, Italy’s traditional stationers have evolved to meet modern demands, as Verity Hogan discovers

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rom the Dukes of Savoy to the young aristocrats on the Grand Tour, those with a taste for the fner things in life have always admired Italy’s handmade paper. Today, the country’s stationery still enjoys an acclaimed reputation. Much of it is manufactured using the fnest traditional components, incorporating techniques that have remained almost unchanged since the early 18th century.

From leather-bound journals and personalised, embossed writing paper to visiting cards and covered storage boxes, the range available

PHOTO: ALESSIO MACRÌ

is extensive and of the highest quality.

In Europe, the oldest known surviving document on paper (as opposed to parchment) is housed in the state archive in Palermo. With text in Arabic and Greek, it dates back to 1109. Yet it is widely believed that it wasn’t until the 13th century that Italian stationers took the ancient method of papermaking and transformed it into a major commercial product, becoming internationally renowned for paper production in the process.

Few companies can boast a more illustrious legacy than Fabriano, with a heritage dating back to 1264. The company takes its name from the little town of Fabriano in the Marche where it is based. This became a successful papermaking centre largely because of its proximity to Ancona, a port with particularly strong ties to Arab trade routes. In the 15th century, fne arts papers made here were used and highly praised

by Michelangelo. The town’s

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Previous page: Pineider’s bespoke stationery

Above (clockwise from top): inside Fabriano’s Rome store; Il Papiro’s colourful paper; Fabriano stationery

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workshops pioneered techniques that are now commonplace in the papermaking industry, such as using watermarks, and surface sheet gluing with gelatine.

Fabriano the company developed from these artisans’ workshops and has remained successful thanks to its ability to adapt, responding to trends and catering to changing consumer demands. The product range has evolved beyond fne arts to include everyday ofce supplies and drawing pads as well as beautifully presented writing sets. Today, the company is also committed to renewable energy and makes extensive use of selfgenerated hydroelectric power in its production.

In contrast, the product range at Il Papiro is grounded in artisanal tradition and each of the company’s 18 shops has been designed to have a traditional air, refecting the elegant atmosphere of its frst store in Florence. Items on ofer range from paisley-printed notebooks

to leather-bound journals and stunning hand-marbled papers.

The company’s owners, Francesco Giannini and Gianni Parenti, were born in Florence and are closely associated with the city’s artisan community, ensuring that their products retain historic charm and boast a timeless quality that defes passing trends.

Pineider is one of Italy’s oldest paper manufacturers, having catered to a suitably discerning clientele since Francesco Pineider opened his frst shop in 1774.

‘Our stationery is one of a kind and known internationally for

Above (from top): Il Papiro’s store in Rome; some of the brand’s products

the unique quality of the paper stocks and the exclusive printing techniques of our master hand engravers,’ explains company spokeswoman Linda Zamboni.

‘Our paper is all chlorine-free, the inks are natural, and we apply traditional Italian artisanal methods to make our papers perfect to the touch and wonderful to write on.’

The company has been able to survive and thrive for more than 240 years by maintaining the traditional production methods

Those with a taste for life’s finer things have long admired Italy’s stationery Above: an engraver at work at Pineider

from which its frst fortunes were made. Yet modern techniques have also been incorporated. ‘Of course, new techniques and new technologies have changed some procedures,’ Zamboni says. ‘But the colouring of the borders in some of our collections is still done by hand, as it used to be ages ago. It’s the same with the making of our paper boxes, which are handcrafted in house.’

From made-to-order visiting cards to writing papers featuring elegant, embossed characters and coats of arms, Pineider’s varied product range has always attracted a dedicated following.

Former clients include literary heavyweights such as Lord Byron and Elizabeth Barrett Browning, and Hollywood stars from Marlene Dietrich to Elizabeth Taylor. ‘Our clientele is still the

PHOTO: MAURO PEZZOTTA

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TOFINO, BC / CANADA CHRIS BURKARD

THE NORTH FACE STORES

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most refned in the world,’ says Zamboni. ‘We’re very thankful to all those who appreciate the unique quality of our made-inItaly stationery products.’

Today, the company ofers a wide range of stationery goods, from beautifully crafted pieces for a special occasion – papers featuring hand-engraved cursive lettering, and modern square cards and envelopes with printed coloured borders – to the Capri collection, which features handcoloured borders made from natural pigments and envelopes with matching handmade tissue paper lining. The company is continually evolving. Zamboni reveals a development hitherto a secret: Pineider is about to launch a new engraving technique. It will, she says, ‘have the result of an embossed printing from a hand-

Above: tools of the trade at Pineider

engraved cast of a calligraphic text.’

In a world where communication is increasingly conducted electronically, it is heartening to see that demand for high-quality stationery in Italy has increased rather than diminished. Without losing touch with their roots, the companies that frst catered to the literary elite and aristocratic adventurers have been able to develop their product selections to appeal to a modern audience. As Zamboni explains, ‘hand engraving dates back to previous centuries but, of course, now new technologies are involved. The precision of the master engraver, though, is the same as it used to be.’ fabriano.com, ilpapirofrenze.it, pineider.com

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

MAN ON A MISSION As Giorgio Armani celebrates the 40th anniversary of his eponymous fashion house, the designer is still looking ahead, says Hannah Lewis

E

arlier this year, surrounded by 500 guests ranging from Hollywood stars to political dignitaries, Giorgio Armani kicked of the 40th-anniversary celebrations for his iconic fashion house with one of the most stylish parties of the year. To coincide with the launch of Expo Milano 2015, Armani unveiled a new exhibition space, Armani/ Silos, staged a grand fashion show celebrating some of his greatest creations, and ended the night with a cocktail party at his nightclub, Armani Privé.

The celebratory catwalk show 131 /

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transported guests back through the past four decades, presenting highlights from the Giorgio Armani Privé couture line from its inception. Comprising 160 looks, it was an impressive retrospective, showcasing glamour, variety and – notably – colour, a timely reminder that Armani’s reputed fondness for ‘greige’ is undeserved. From layered tulle skirts in soft nudes to bold scarlet of-the-shoulder gowns, the show honoured a designer with endless creativity and the ability to make beautiful, timeless clothes.

Even more impressively, this 143

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represented just one part of the Armani portfolio. There are eight brands under the Armani umbrella, producing everything from jeans to home accessories, baby clothes to ballgowns. The brand has 49 retail spaces in Italy alone, including the Armani Casa fagship, an Armani café and the aforementioned nightclub.

As a result, one could spend days exploring Armani’s achievements in the past 40 years and not even scratch the surface.

As the man himself has said, ‘I’ve done everything.’ He has a remarkably hands-on approach; from architectural sketches to the smallest fabric decisions, Armani approves everything personally.

Many fashion commentators, and Armani himself, have attributed the designer’s prolifc Previous page: Armani Privé autumn/winter 2014/15

On trend and classic, Armani’s fashion will last a lifetime output to his late start in life. Now 81, the designer did not launch his eponymous label until he was 40.

Even so, he has been able to ft the work of at least one lifetime into those four decades. The Armani label launched in 1975, and by the following year the designer’s collections were already making waves, with his ready-to-wear, in particular, meeting the needs of modern women perfectly.

Armani was instrumental Above: Armani’s 40th-anniversary fashion show

in defning the look of the era, but where others have fallen by the wayside as trends have changed, the brand has remained the go-to label for everything from suiting to eveningwear.

The forward-looking designer is always thinking about the next season, and he has an uncanny ability to create clothes that are simultaneously on trend and classic; Armani’s fashion is fashion that will last a lifetime.

Opening at the same time as the retrospective show and party, the new Armani/Silos space plays host to an exhibition showcasing 600 signature looks, as well as a collection of sketches, technical drawings and materials from the Armani archives. Just don’t call it a museum. Armani Above (clockwise from top): Armani/Silos (both); Armani Privé spring/summer 2015

PHOTOS: (TOP) DAVIDE LOVATTI (BOTH); (BOTTOM) © GORUNWAY.COM

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is not about stagnation, he’s concerned with looking to the future, and exhibits will be changed every six months. The building, a former granary, has been sympathetically renovated to maintain many original features while also radically altering others – a demonstration of Armani’s passion for juxtaposing tradition and modernity.

On the other side of the city, the Armani Montenapoleone fagship has recently been renovated. Located in the historic Palazzo Taverna, the store also fuses old and new; the layout has been returned to its original foorplan, but each room has been customised, with luxurious materials such as marble and onyx used throughout. As well

Despite his impressive legacy, Armani’s eye is firmly on the future as stocking the largest Armani product collection in the city, the store is also home to a dedicated made-to-measure service. Milan was the natural choice for the fagship; although Armani was born in Piacenza, his label was founded in the city and he has lived and worked there ever since.

Despite his impressive legacy, Armani’s eye remains frmly on the future. At the moment he is

focusing on a range of accessories, including handbags, designed to exist outside of the normal fashion schedule. Armani has never relied on accessories in the way that many fashion houses have, but the designer is always aware of his audience and bags have become big news.

Le Sac 11 has been launched to coincide with the anniversary: a practical top-handle bag that is minimalist, classic and available in three sizes and a selection of diferent materials and colours.

The ‘11’ references not only Armani’s birth date but also the address of his company’s historic headquarters. Despite this nod to his heritage, the bag has – as with everything Armani – been designed with the present, and future, in mind. A timeless design conceived for today and built to last: a ftting summation of the Armani philosophy armani.com Above (from top): Armani Privé nightclub, Milan; Emporio Armani autumn/winter 2015/16; Le Sac 11

PHOTOS: (TOP) GIONATA XERRA; (MIDDLE) © GORUNWAY.COM

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TABLE TALK Both a cultural institution and a delicious treat, authentic Italian pizza is still hard to beat, as Isabella Redmond Styles explains

Pizza has been a staple of the Italian kitchen for centuries, starting life as a simple fatbread topped with herbs and brushed with olive oil. With time, other ingredients came to be added.

Mozzarella, made from the milk of water bufaloes, was frst mentioned in writing in the 16th century, though its history may date back much further. Tomatoes were frst imported from the Americas at the same time, though it took a while for them to become truly popular for cooking. globalblue.com

The frst pizzeria, located in Naples, opened its doors in 1830; before that, pizza had been sold at open-air stands in the city and was something of a local speciality. These early examples were simple: the Margherita, supposedly created to honour the visit of Queen Margherita of Savoy in 1889, uses just tomatoes, mozzarella and basil. Fast forward to the present and the variety of toppings in the average pizzeria is endless, with the best seasonal and local produce to the fore.

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OBICÀ

Obicà is, frst and foremost, about mozzarella– in particular, the bufalo mozzarella from the Campania region. It’s no surprise, then, to fnd a carefully chosen selection of pizzas on its menu. The bases are made with premium Molino Quaglia four, with the dough left to rise for a minimum of 48 hours, and then baked on a refractory stone.

Flavours follow a classic theme – the simple but delicious organic tomato and bufalo mozzarella is hard to beat. The emphasis is on showcasing fantastic ingredients, such as anchovies from Cetara in Southern Italy, to their best possible advantage, with a few seasonal variations thrown in for good measure.

Obicà, Via Santa Radegonda 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 885 2453, obica.com

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IL PIZZAIUOLO

Il Pizzaiuolo is a little of the beaten track in Santa Croce, but it’s certainly worth the efort to fnd it. The interior is unfussy and charming – the perfect backdrop for the Neapolitan-style pizzas, with a thick crust but a thin centre, which draw crowds on a regular basis. Each pizza is baked in a wood-fred oven; favours include the Diavolo, spicy salami with mozzarella and olives, or the indulgent Burrata. There’s even a pizza fritta, essentially a calzone stufed with spinach, ham and ricotta and fried.

Il Pizzaiuolo, Via de’ Macci 113R, 50122 Florence, +39 055 241171, ilpizzaiuolo.it

ANTICO FORNO The unassuming looking Antico Forno has been a local favourite since it opened 14 years ago thanks to its delicious focaccia, pizza and sandwiches. The secret of its irresistible pizza is not just the high-quality ingredients, but also the way the base is made.

The dough is left to rise for a whole day, which enhances the favour and means it can be rolled out until it is incredibly thin, guaranteeing a crispy base. Antico Forno is popular for its signature pizzaccia, a light and more-ish cross between focaccia and pizza.

Antico Forno, Calle de la Donzela, San Polo 970, 30125 Venice, +39 041 520 4110

globalblue.com

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PHOTO: SANTI CALECA

ROSCIOL I

DRY Dry puts a cool and glamorous spin on the traditional Italian pizzeria with an in-house cocktail bar. Begin your evening with one of Dry’s classic signature cocktails, such as the Vintage Negroni, a blend of gin, Barolo Chinato, sweet vermouth, Campari and mandarin bitters.

The pizza is in traditional Neapolitan style: small, with a reasonable thickness that perfectly balances crunchiness and soft dough. Ingredients are paramount, such as Cerignola tomatoes, Fiordilatte cheese from Agerola, and 24-month-aged prosciutto (air-dried ham).

Dry, Via Solferino 33, 20121 Milan, +39 02 6379 3414, drymilano.it

Family-run Roscioli has been in operation on the same site not far from Campo de’ Fiori since 1972.

The bakery’s pizzas, fatbreads and sourdoughs are among the best in the city, making Roscioli a big hit with locals and visitors alike, and it also supplies several of the city’s best hotels. If you can turn your head away from the fragrant panettones or flled zeppoline, a deep fried pastry that’s similar to a doughnut, leave room for the pizza bianca.

Roscioli’s version is its signature bake, a soft, chewy and crispy fatbread with a lightly toasted top that’s been brushed with olive oil.

For those who prefer something more colourful, the pizza rossa, topped with a light tomato sauce, is a delicious alternative.

Roscioli, Via dei Chiavari 34, 00186 Rome, +39 06 686 4045, anticofornoroscioli.it

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GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Italy with a look at the country’s mustvisit destinations, from Florentine textile workshops to jewellery boutiques in Venice. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/italy.

A GLIMPSE OF VENICE Above: Venice’s picturesque canals are spanned by around 400 bridges in an array of styles

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● E&R DANON ● VENEZIANI

● ● ● ● ●

GENTE ROMA FLOS PIAZZA SEMPIONE ICEBERG MIU MIU PINKO KIEHL’S ERMANNO SCERVINO CHANEL ETRO CIR MATTIOLI COSTUME NATIONAL

TROLLBEADS ● RED VALENTINO ● NUOVA ANTE PRIMA ● THE FIFTH SEASON BY V IA DE ROBERTO COIN ● I GR ECI SERRA ● GENTE ● MARIO OASI ● COEN ● LA NUVOLA ● RINALDI ● EUROPEAN FINE ART ● LA PALLINA ●

VIA

V IT

TO

R IA

VIA DEL BABUINO

BOC

● VUELLE

CANALI FRATELLI ROSSETTI RED VALENTINO HAUSMANN & CO IL GUFO MISS GRANT LES COPAINS VHERNIER ARMANI JEANS SERAPIAN

● GENTE ROMA

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

KITON ● DECORARTE ● U-BOAT ITALO FONTANA ● MAC ● HERZEL DE BACH ● VILERBREQUIN ● TIFFANY & CO. ● HOGAN ●

V IA

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

● RICHARD DI CASTRO

V I A M A R G U T TA

VIA DEL BABUINO

ANTONACCI ● EMPORIO ARMANI ● ANTIQUARIO ● VICINI ● WA POLLONI ●

● MARGUTTA OTTICA

PROFUMERIA HB ●

● TUMI

ECI

BALDININI ● F.M. MEGNA ● ANTEPRIMA ● ASPESI ●

● SADDLERS UNION ● ARTEMIDE ● SERGIO NESCI ● BOFFI ● WISKY & CO ● MARCHETTI ● BRUNO MURATORI ● CAMPAIOLA

● DAVID MAYER NAMAN

GALLERIA D’ARTE BENUCCI ● V IA

● DIAMANTE

TI

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EI M O N

ARTEMIDE ●

LA

IN ITÀ D

GROSSI MAURIZIO ●

V IA

● SANDRO FERRONE

ROY ROGERS ●

EL LA TR

JO MALONE OMAI NOW OR NEVER MAISON MARGIELA PARIS

VI AL E D

● ● ● ●

● LELLI ● EMMA OTTO

BONUCCELI ●

GOFFI CARBONE ●

V I A M A R G U T TA

COMPAGNIA ITALIANA VOGUE SHOP BARILLÀ BOUTIQUE TORY BURCH BRIONI

GIOVANNI RASPINI ●

MARIO LUCCHESE ● MALIPARMI ● FABRIZIO BULCKAEN ● TAD ● LEO PIZZO ●

● ● ● ● ●

VIA DEL BABUINO

FABRIANO ● MAJE ● PETIT BATEAU ●

VIA DEL BABUINO

PUNTO PELLE ● RIENZI ● STONE ISLAND ●

LELLI PEOCHI ●

OTTICA SPEZIA ● CESARI ● GENTE ROMA ●

Via Margutta

● 100% CAPRI ● DE GRISOGONO ● FABI ● BOGGI ● CHOPARD VI A M A RGUT TA ● HERVÉ LÉGER ● DODO

● ANIMALIER E OLTRE ● COCOZZA ● CONSORTI ● MUCCI ● IL MARMORARO ● MASSONI ● IL MONDO DELL’ARTE ● PALAZZO MARGUTTA ● FLAIR ● MONOGRAMMA ● MONIES

V IA A

● ENIGMA L IB E

RT

ER A TO R

IM P TO US

TA

UG

UT

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AA

RG

B ER T

UIN

ZZ

MA

V IA A LI

AB

P IA

VIA

LB

IO RI IO DE ’F VI A M AR UMBERTO VISGA ● ANTIQUARIO ● NIA ● LAURA ZOFFOLI ● ZINGONE ● CAMPOMARZIO 70 ● FLEUR TEMPORARY

● LUNARIA ● NECK & NECK ● SCAPA OF SCOTLAND ● MORO & OGNISSANTI ● FALIERO SARTI DR.VRANJES ● FIRENZE ● SPADARELLA VI A BEL SIANA ● V VITTORIA ● GREGG

VIA DEL CORSO

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DE

VIA VITTORIA

VIA

BARBARA GREGORI ● MARIO LUCA GIUSTI ●

VIA VITTORIA

IC I

● OB HOUSE ● IL BACO DA SETA ● FABRICATORE ● ALFONSI GIOIELLI

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TEF

ALESSANDRELLI ●

PON

NIA ● FOFO SOMANI ● LESLEY ●

DEL

ORTIGIA ● THÈ VERDE ● GISCI ● SAMSONITE ● BERTOLETTI ● LADIA ● DE CARLIS ● ROBERTO COIN ● ROBERTO BIAGINI ●

V IA

JODIEL ● TIFERET ●

E

Via Vittoria

Featured In This Issue

BAB

WP STO RE ●

FRETTE ● ESCADA ●

LORIBLU ●

DI CASTRO ●

DEL

MENICHINI ●

V IA

U IN

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NTI

P.44

MONCLER ● PRADA DONNA ● PRADA UOMO ● DAMIANI ● CARTIER ● A TESTONI ●

GIORGIO ARMANI ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● MONTBLANC ● ELEUTERI ● JIMMY CHOO ● HERMÈS ●

● GUCCI

● DIOR

● BULGARI

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● HARRY WINSTON ● BURBERRY ● BATTISTONI ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ● CHURCH’S ● TIFFANY & CO ●

P.97

● ANGELETTI

VIA MA RIO DE’

● LOUIS VUITTON ● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

● MAX MARA

● CELINE ● BRIONI ● CASTELLI ● SWATCH ● LORO PIANA ● STUART WEITZMAN ● HAUSMANN & CO

● BUCCELLATI ● ORO GOLD ● ALBERTA FERRETTI ● MIU MIU

VIA BOCCA DI L EONE

● SCOOTERPLUS PRETTY ● BALLERINAS ● CANETTA ● CAESAR ● FIORENTINO ●B ● PARAGON ● LA GARDENIA ● VENCHI

● COSE

CUOIERIA ● FIORENTINA ● ANDREUCCI

P.95 VIA BEL SIA NA

XANDRINE ● MODA UOMO ● MALLONI ●

’ FI O RI R IO DE VI A M A POMPI ● FIORENTINO ● BOTTEGA QUATTRO ● OTTICA CALÒ ●

LEO NE VIA BOC CA DI LOVE LIFE ● SPIMAR ● VASARI ● LALA ● PER LEI ● VERTECCHI ●

Piazza Di Spagna VIA DEL CORSO

● BALLY

● OMEGA

FIO RI

VIA BEL SIA NA

VI A VITTO R IA

VIA BELSIAN A STOP HERE ● ● PELLETIERIA HARRISON ● PATRIZIA FLORENCE OF MOON ● ● MANNOIA CAMICISSIMA ● ● ABITART LIOR ● TWINS ● NUNY ● ● FLIRT BOTTOM DOWN ● ● CLIO THIERRY RABOTIN ●

● SWAROVSKI

IL BISONTE ●

RENÉ CAOVILLA ●

BRUNELLO ● CUCINELLI

BALENCIAGA ● FIO RI VIA MA RIO DE’ ● KID SPACE GUCCI ● MORRIS ● ● MONNA LISA LORENZO ROBERTO CARMIGNANI ● ● CAVALLI SPORTMAX ● ● BRIGHENTI STELLA MCCARTNEY ● ● IRO FRATELLI ● BLUMARINE ROSSETTI ● ● LES COPAINS MARINA RINALDI ● VIA BO CC A DI LEO NE

COLOMBO ● HERNO ● TARTUFI & FRIENDS ●

● ALYSI

● EDDY MONETTI ● COS ● & OTHER STORIES ● ZENDRINI

VIA BEL SIA NA

VIA DEL COR SO

PEUTEREY ● NIKI NIKA ●

VIA FRAT TINA

DAN ●

TOD’S ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● TRUSSARDI ● MARCELLO ● FRANCESCO ROGANI ● MAX & CO ● VILEBREQUIN ●

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VIA BORGOGNONA

ALEXANDER ●

Via Borgognona

P.52

● VALENTINO

DI CORI ●

Piazza Mignanelli

ROSSATI ●

Piazza Di Spagna

VIA CON DOT TI

● ACQUA DI PARMA ● LOEWE ● IWC SEPHORA ● GIUSEPPE K-WAY ● ● ZANOTTI SERMONETA ● NESPRESSO GLOVES ●

VIA BORGOGNONA

CASADEI ● EMILIO PUCCI ●

● FURLA

● CHANEL ● LONGCHAMP ● SANTONI ● MISSONI

● DIESEL

Piazza Di Spagna ROZ ZE

VIA DEL LE CAR

● VERSACE

SERGIO ROSSI ● PURA LOPEZ ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● JAEGER-LECOULTRE ● EFRATI ●

P.42

BRUNO ● CALO ● CROMIA PIER ● CARANTI

VIA FRAT TINA

NA

VIA FRATTI

VIA DELLA CROCE

● DIOR ● CAMPER

VIA CON DOT TI

VIA CON DOT TI

CE VIA DEL LA CRO

VIA DEL COR SO

G U I D E | 93

Via della Croce

VIA DELLE CARROZZE

Via dei Condotti & Piazza di Spagna

’FIO RI

IA MA RIO DE

A

Piazza Di Spagna ● BL GIOIELLI

’FIO RI

BOSS STORE ●

PIQUARDO ● VIVIANTI ● AVC BY ADRIANA CAMPANILE ●

Piazza Mignanelli

VIA BEL SIA NA

ALVIERO MARTINI ● NOMINATION ● ASH ● PURE ● BRANDY & MELVILLE ● MICARELLI ● GIUDI ● CHOPIN ● PINKO ● MATI ● FABIO D ● GUESS ●

LIVIANA CONTI ● GALLO ● FAUSTO SANTINI ● CESARE PACIOTTI ● VI A BO CC A DI LEONE

I V IA MAR IO DE ’ FIOR PERSONA ● FORNARI E FORNARI ● MARELLA ● ANDREA FABIANI ●

VIA BORGOGNONA

● SWAROVSKI ● ADORE ● GEOX ● JECKERSON ● NERO GIARDINI ● BRIGHENTI ● ELENA MIRÒ ● DOPPELGANGER ● UNO DE 50 ● MOLESKINE ● ELISABETTA FRANCHI

● PROFUMERIA CASTELLI ● ATOS LOMBARDINI ● GALASSIA ● SISTE’S ● ROBERTO BOTTICELLI ● CAMPANILE ● MARTINI ● MAX MARA ● GRACE K ● STEFANEL ● WINDSOR ● ARMANI JUNIOR ● PENNY BLACK ● FALCONERI ● OPTISSIMO ● PAL ZILERI ● TRU TRUSSARDI ● PATRIZIA PEPE ● MORESCHI ● FREDDY ● ARGENTARIUS ● CASTELLI ● REBECCA ● MANILA GRACE ● OTTICA EFRATI ● CALZEDONIA ● FLAVIO CASTELLANI ● KIEHL’S

● GENTE ROMA ● BALDININI TREND ● PATRIZIA ● RUBY ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● EL GANSO ● LUISA VENIER

VIA DEL COR SO

CARLO PAZOLINI ● LIST ● WOLFORD ● L'OCCITANE ● ACQUA DELL'ELBA ● PANDORA ● DANIELLE ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

VIA FRAT TINA

VIA F RATT INA

BADURA ●

VIA BORGOGNONA

Piazza Mignanelli

VIA FRAT TINA ● FGF STORE RUCOLINE ● HAVAIANAS ● ● CHIARA BLU VIA F R AT TINA

VIA B OCCA DI L EONE

VIA CON DOT TI

VIA BE LSI AN

● GHERARDINI PICCO GIOIELLI●

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● MASTROLEO

IMPERATORE DI CAPRI ● ● DOMUS CALZATURE MALO ● KEEP OUTLET ●

● TRONCONE

VIA MA RIO DE

A

● GIOIELLERIA MARONI

● ILEANA DELLA CORTE

NIA OUTLET ●

● LUIGI BORRELLI

VIA BE LSI AN

VIA DEL LE CAR

ROZ ZE

● GREMESE

PANCRISIA ● LAURA BIAGIOTTI ● ● CHOSES

● ZAPPIA

CORNER ●

● HOUSE OF LEATHER ● C.U.C.I.N.A. ● WOLFORD ● EMANUEL ZOO ● MARTINO MIDALI ● GIOIELLI DI COCO'

VIA DEL COR SO

● GIORGIA R

● I CARTAI CASTIELLO ●

● FABRIS BORGHINI ● BELSIANA 91 ●

● COSE ● TIZIANA MODIANO FIORENTINO ● CE VIA DEL LA CRO

● DRUMHOR

● LA PIE VOLEUSE ● CORNER ● JAJA CAMICERIA ● VERTECCHI ● MONT BLANC L'ANELLERIA ●

● LA MERCERIA ● LOPEZ WATCHES

VIA VIT TOR IA V. VITTORIA GIOIELLI ●

SAVOY ● ALBERTA FERRETTI ● NIKI NIKA ●

VIA DEL COR SO

94 | G U I D E

Via Belsiana & Via Mario de’ Fiori

WATCH HOUSE ●

MADE IN ITALY ●

Via Frattina

VIA CON DOTTI

G U I D E | 95

Ermenegildo Zegna is characterised by its always-elegant take on men’s clothing and accessories, so when the brand turns its hand to a humble item like a sneaker, it’s going to be special. The label’s couture sneaker, a luxurious twist on an everyday wardrobe staple, is available in black-grained calf leather or grey bufalo leather with a metallic sheen.

Ermenegildo Zegna’s triple X logo, which is reserved for its couture items, appears on the back of the shoe and the lacing also cleverly references this motif.

Ermenegildo Zegna, Via dei Condotti 58, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6994 0678, zegna.com

* for map go to page 93

Via Dei Due Macelli ● CHIURATO MICHELE

MANDARINA DUCK ●

● HOSS INTROPIA

ILLY SHOP ●

A

VI A DE I

LA SORGENTE ●

● OTTICA BILECI ● JACKSON

DU E M AC EL LI

BATA ●

VICTORY ● I-D ● ROSA FISH ●

● PINKO ● PELLETTERIA FLACCO ● EDISON ● RALPH ● VICTORY ● KAMINSKY ● LA BOTTEGA DI ELI

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T IN

CARTELLO D’AURIA ● RENARD ●

S IS

● TAMMARO

METTIMI GIU' ●

RIA NA

RED & BLUE ●

V IA

● PINEIDER

59/A ●

VIA GR EGO

● EDITH B

METTIMI GIÙ ●

PHOTO: CARLO BEVILACQUA

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Experience the magic with Disney Store! www.disneystore.it GRUGLIASCO (TO) Centro Commerciale “Shopville Le Gru” Via Crea, 10, 10095 Tel. 011.7708080 VENEZIA Campo San Bartolomeo, 5257 30124 San Marco Tel. 041.5223980 VERONA Via Mazzini, 25 - 37121 Tel. 045.8013655 PADOVA Piazza dei Frutti, 23 - 35139 Tel. 049.8764703

FIRENZE Via dei Calzaiuoli, 69/71 50122 Tel. 055.291633 BOLOGNA Via Indipendenza, 7 - 40121 Tel: 051.6486151 ROMA Via Del Corso, 165 - 00186 Tel. 06.69924891 ROMA Centro Commerciale Porta di Roma, Via Alberto Lionello, 201 00139 Tel. 06.87070325

ROMA LUNGHEZZA Centro Commerciale “R.O.M.A.E.S.T”, Via Collatina, 858 km 12,800 - 00155 Tel. 06.22511321 MILANO Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 30 20122 Tel. 02.76317908 ORIO AL SERIO (BG) Centro Commerciale “Orio Center” Via Portico, 59/61 - 24050 Tel. 035.4596017 MARCIANISE (CE) Centro Commerciale “CAMPANIA”Autostrada A1, Uscita Caserta sud/ Marcianise Località Aurno - 81025 Tel. 0823.773601 NAPOLI Via Toledo, 129 - 80100 Tel. 081.7901377 BARI Via Sparano, 127-130 - 70100 Tel. 080.5283916

©Disney

PALERMO Via Ruggero Settimo, 79/87 90139 Tel. 091.333125

G U I D E | 97

Via del Corso (North)

TIFFANY ● BORSALINO

Piazza Del Popolo

Al Bolognese

● ZEISS HOUSE

DI R VIA

BERNABEI ● KINZLY ● LU ● RE MISHELLE ● DA PIETRO ● DAVID HAMILTON ● GRATIE ●

VIA DEL CORSO

IPE

T TA

● ALFIERI

● STEFANO RICCI

● ORIGINAL MARINES

VIA VIA LAURINA PERUGINA GAZZELLE COVER STORE DIVA BERNABEI TATIÉ SUBDUED DOUBLE AGENT FOOT LOCKER PULL LOVE MARCO VIA DI GESU E MARIA

O

AW LAB ● NUVOLARI ● OTTICA SOLE ●

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

UIN

IO

DESIGUAL ●

AB

H&M ●

FOSSIL ●

BOTTEGA VERDE ANTHEA DOMINIQUE LUSH NERO GIARDINI REFRIGIWEAR MURPHY & NYE

LB

VA N TA G G

DE

DEL

VIA DEL CORSO

V IA

● ● ● ● ● ● ●

● LAB SHOES ● SISLEY

FLORENCE ● N TO N IO C A N O VA BATA ● PIAZZA ITALIA ● MAC ● KIKO ● SEPHORA ●

VIA DEL CORSO

V IA A

TERRANOVA ●

D EI

ADIDAS ● PON TEF IC I REDFORD ●

VIA DEL CORSO

NIKE ● V IA

GAP ●

Largo Dei Lombardi

GEOX ● CAMPER ● BRANDY & MELVILLE ●

VIA DEL CORSO

ISHOP ●

● ● ● ● ● ● ●

V I A D I S A N G I ACO M O VANS ELISABETTA FRANCHI PERLA INGLOT ST.MORITZ SOLARIS COCCINELLE VIA DEI GRECI

● ● ● ● ●

CATENELLA ALCOTT PEPE JEANS MANILA GRACE KEY

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

BERNABEI SIMONA L’OCCITANE DA VINCI FRANCESCHINI VIA VITTORIA MONDO WIND P.37 MARELLA INTIMISSIMI SHOPIE CHARLOTTE MARC O’POLO ET MOI

● ● ● ●

LA 3 STORE NAU CHOPIN DAVID SADDLER

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

CALZEDONIA DECCIO CARLO PARFOIS GOLDEN POINT ASOLE E BOTTONI TALLY WEIJL DIESEL GUESS VIA DELLE CARROZZE

Via dei Condotti is Rome’s most exclusive shopping street, so where better for elite American jeweller Tifany to open its new store? The two-storey boutique, the brand’s third in the city, opens this spring and covers 365 square metres. The interior walls feature archival motifs that cleverly reference Tifany’s long-standing heritage, which dates back nearly 180 years.

Tifany & Co, Via dei Condotti 55, 00187 Rome, tifany.com

* for map go to page 93

VIA DELLA CROCE

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Restaurant

Featured In This Issue

98 | G U I D E

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

A

VIA DEL LA

VIT E

Featured In This Issue

VIA SS. AP OSTO LI

● LA GARDENIA

AR

OM

MP CA VIA

● DOPPELGANGER ● SAXON’S ● HAMMERSMITH

● SHOPIE CHARLOTTE SCHEGGE ●

STEFANEL ●

VIA D EL P L EBIS CITO

VICOLO D EL PIOM B O ● TATIE ● TEBE ● LEVIATAN ● SALOMÈ ● LE GROUP ● PERONI ● ALCOTT ● CLASS ● RIENZI

VI A CES AR E B ATT

G H E T TI

Piazza Venezia

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ISTI

PIAZZA DEI SANTISSIMI APOSTOLI

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VI A M A RCO MI N

VI A L ATA

VIA DEL CORSO

VATURI ● OTHERS ● BARONE ●

AR RA VIC O LO S CI ● OMAI NOW OR NEVER STELLA M ILTÀ ● ZETA U ' L EL VIA D

VI A DI SAN MARCE LLO

RES

NON A

VIA FRATTINA

● ETY ● OTTICA CANOVAI

AU DIA

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA DELL 'I M P

GUTTERIDGE ● MIRIADE ● YAMAMAY ●

VIA DEL CORSO

ASC I H

● CARSHOE

● PASQUALE BRUNI

VIA DEL CAR AVIT A CELIO ●

VICOLO DOR IA

VIA DEL CORSO

RG A M

VI A BOR GOG

VIA DEL CORSO

NESPRESSO ●

BURBERRY ●

● BOTTEGA VENETA

VIA DI SA NTA M AR IA IN VIA FLORSHEIM ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● ● NANNINI ● OYSHO PINKO ● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● ● BRACCIALINI ● C’ART AERONAUTICA MILITARE ● ● OTTICA F. LA BARBERA BOGGI ● ● IMAGINARIUM ● GUESS BY MARCIANO TRU TRUSSARDI ● COCCINELLE ● ● DAMIANO PRESTA BE TWEEN ● PIQUADRO ● ● THE BRIDGE LA RINASCENTE ● ● BOGGI ● ZARA LA FELTRINELLI ●

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA SA N CL

TIM ●

FELLINI ●

T TI

Via del Corso (South)

● ZARA

Galleria Alberto Sordi

MOOD ● ROBERTO ANTICOLI ●

E NV ER TIT

Piazza di San Silvestro

Piazza del Parlamento

DANIELLE ●

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

● SAINT LAURENT

VIA DEL L E CO

FRETTE ●

DIXIE ●

OND O

RO

● DISNEY ● GRILLI VIT E VIA DEL LA ● HOUR PASSION ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ● CALZEDONIA ● MANGO ● SWATCH ● LE GROUPE ● STELLA Z ● ENERGIE / MISS SIXTY

VIA DEL PARLAMENTO

HOYA ●

● BONPOINT

GA M BE

INTIMISSIMI ●

● LUCCHESI ● TEZENIS ● G.D.V. ● MARC O’POLO ● COLONNA ● LUISA SPAGNOLI VIA FRATTINA ● ESOTICA ● YAMAMAY ● OTTICA EFRATI ● ALDO ● CARPISA

VIA DEL

VIA DEL CORSO

VODAFONE ● 7 CAMICIE ● SISLEY ● HAMILTON ● CORNER ● CARPISA ● GREISY ● HAUSMANN & CO ● P.100 ACCESSORIZE ● PUMA ●

VI A B E

I

VIA BELSIANA

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

Piazza Colonna

N D O TT

POMELLATO ●

VI A CO

● SWAROVSKI ● YAMAMAY ● FALCONERI ● STROILI ORO ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● NARA CAMICIE ● KIKO NON A VIA BOR GOG

VIA C

LOUIS VUITTON ●

FENDI ●

● LIU JO

CRUCIANI & BELLA ●

LLI

GIOIELLERIA CRISTIANA ●

CE

BON POINT ● OBOR ● CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ● AUDEMARS FRANK LO ● PIGUET ●

MA

VIA DEL CORSO

TO

VIA BELSIAN A

● TWIN-SET ● ZARA ● EXOTICA

H&M ●

VIA

ZIO

Via del Corso (Central)

Via del Corso, 406 Tel. 06 68 71 501

Roma Via dei Condotti, 28 Tel. 06 321 10 100

Via del Babuino, 63 Tel. 06 67 91 558

www.hausmann-co.com • info@hausmann-co.com

100 | G U I D E

HAUSMANN & CO

Hausmann & Co a perfect choice for discerning clients.

The cabochon chalcedony ring with grey diamonds is a timeless piece that lends instant glamour to any outft.

Hausmann & Co, Via del Corso 406, 00186 Rome, +39 06 687 1501, hausmann-co.com

The history of Roman fne jewellery house Hausmann & Co spans over 200 years. This season, the brand showcases a collection of stunning items featuring luxurious materials like rose gold and titanium. As ever, the classic designs make

* for map go to page 98

Via del Tritone, Piazza di San Silvestro, Via di San Claudio & Via delle Convertite

DEL REA

● BRIC’S

T 'A

● BEDETTI

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Piazza di San Silvestro

DI

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● G-STA R

● STONEFLY

● MELLUSO

● MUJI

● IL PANTALONE SB LEATHER ● SHOP ● SAXOH’S

FASHION ● SHOES

Galleria Alberto Sordi

● GIOIELLERIA

VI A DEL TRITONE

LARGO CHIGI

DI CORI ● BOX 51 ●

● RIMOWA

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MR MUZIO ● TRITONE FURS ●

Piazza di San Claudio

LUISA SPAGNOLI ● PELLICCE CANALI ●

● GERARD

● MEDICI

V I A D E L P OZ Z E T T

FUSARO ● VODAFONE ● B&H ● ARISTOCRAT ● THE GALLERY ● TIGER ● SPADA ● ALTARIVA ●

VIA

LA GARDENIA ●

● SETTIMIO MIELI

VIA DEL CORSO

● UNO PIÚ

GERA RD ● ● + VISTA ● TRIS GEMME E ● DIAMANTI

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● CARHARTT

THE NORTH ● FACE

VISION OPTIKA ●

VI A DEI SA N

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VIA DEL CORSO

TIMBERLAND ●

VI A DE

VIA DE LL

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Via del Tritone BLUE SAND ● CLIÒ ●

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CLARKS ●

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AC I

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CLASS ●

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BRAND ● MISS ROBERTA ● ESTHER ●

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V I A D E G L I AV I G N O N E S I

● VALLI

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● TRUNK & CO

VIA

● OVS INDUSTRY

● R.BAZZOCCHI CASUCCIO & ● SCALERA

VIA DEL TRITONE

BARBERINI FONTANA DI TREVI Piazza Barberini

RO

Global Blue Retailer Metro Station

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

G U I D E | 101

MILAN Corso Venezia TOP TIP

CAMPAGNA ● CULTI ● RAIMONDI DI PETTINAROLI ● MOSCA ● MATIA'S ●

Rediscover the art of letter writing at historic Milanese stationer and printer F Pettinaroli, which is known for its superlative cards, writing paper and notebooks. The family-owned business, now run by the fourth generation, was founded in 1881, and many of its techniques have barely changed since then. This appreciation for traditional craftsmanship is also evident in its selection of leather accessories and antique prints.

F Pettinaroli, Piazza San Fedele 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8646 4642, fpettinaroli.it

DE BERNARDI ● OTTICA VENEZIA ● LIVIANI ● MADINA ●

V IA

COR SO V EN EZIA

SEITASCHE ● PAR 5 ● RENCO ● NANDO MUZI ● THE FLEXX ● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ●

Tartufi & Friends ● MESAMIS

LINDARICO ●

SEN

AT O

MALLONI ● LUCIANO PADOVAN ● DOLCE & GABBANA ●

● DIEGO M

CO RSO V E N E

DOLCE & GABBANA ● DOLCE & GABBANA BARBIERE ● FLAVIO CASTELLANI ●

● STONE ISLAND ● ADD ● WHO’S WHO ● WOLFORD ● FRANCESCO BIASIA ● GAGÀ MILANO ● ROY ROGERS

NERO GIARDINI ● NERO GIARDINI JUNIOR ●

DOLCE & GABBANA ● COS ●

Z IA

● ULTIMA EDIZIONE ● EMPRESA ● NOMINATION ● CHRISTOFLE ALBERTO ● GUARDIANI

V IA

B AGU T

TA

GRIMOLDI ● BAGATT ● PRADA ● BRACCIALINI ●

● PAOLO TONALI ● RED VALENTINO ● LOVE MOSCHINO ● M MISSONI

ZARA HOME ●

SAN BABILA Piazza San Babila

Piazza San Babila & Corso Matteotti VIA

COR SO

S●

’O ALL

● SALMOIRAGHI VIGANÒ ● MORESCHI ● FLORSHEIM ● BROSWAY ● EDDY MONETTI ● BOGGI ● MILANO OFFICIAL STORE BALDININI ● TREND ● CAMICISSIMA ● DIESEL ● GUESS

RTO

VIA BORGOGNA

Bar Restaurant

Featured In This Issue

IITTALA ●

NFORTE

NET IO N P P LY ●V SU U IT I ●S U CC ANN ●V

CORSO MO

● ESCADA ● JUST CAVALLI

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● TOMBOLINI

SAN BABILA

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Piazza San Carlo

LIVIANA CONTI ●

P NA TE ON M

BOSS STORE ● ROBERTO FESTA ●

A TT

VIA

● UNIFOR ● RODO ● MORONI GOMMA

● ANGELO GALASSO

● FINART

● LO SCARABEO D’ORO

P.36

VEN EZI A

GU BA

VIA DODO ● FABBRICA PELLETTERIE MILANO ●

Sant’ambroeus Bar

MAZZOLARI ● TIMBERLAND ● DESIGUAL ● ALDO BRUÈ ● HARMONT & BLAINE ●

ATOS LOMBARDINI ●

CANALI ●

DE MATTIA ● PASABAHCE ● PIKENZ ● SPAZIO FORNASETTI ● JECKERSON ● GRAVATI ● ALVIERO MARTINI ●

CORSO MATTEO TTI

102 | G U I D E

BOTTEGA VENETA Bottega Veneta has opened its frst Home Collection boutique in Milan, located within the 18th-century Palazzo Gallarati Scotti. This vast store is aimed at those who seek luxurious furnishings crafted from the highest quality materials.

Creative director Tomas Maier designed the store to connect

the past and the present: here, modern design is informed by the luxury and craftsmanship of heritage. Introduced in 2006, the Home Collection’s frst item was a bench designed by Maier which featured the same materials that are used to make the brand’s luggage.

Bottega Veneta, Via Montenapoleone 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 4495, bottegaveneta.com

Via Montenapoleone & Via della Spiga Piazza Croce Rossa MONTENAPOLEONE

NI A R M A ZO NI 31 N NI ● MA A N ZO

V IA M

VILEBREQUIN ● CASTELLO D’ORO ● BYBLOS ● COLOMBO ● PIQUADRO ● FRETTE ● DE NICOLA ● MONNALISA BABY ● RUCOLINE ●

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE

V I A VERRI

Global Blue Lounge

● TOD’S ● SPORTMAX ● PRADA

VIA SANT’ANDREA

Cova SCAVIA ● COLOMBO VIA ● PRADA WOMAN DELLA SPIGA ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI SICIS JEWELS ● ● DESIGN TORY BURCH ● ● FEDELI RED AND BLUE MONCLER ● ● BALLY BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● GHERARDINI ● ● SABBADINI MARCO BICEGO ● ● ROBERTO CAVALLI KURT GEIGER ● ● CAMPER CAR SHOE ● SPIGA UNO ● ● SANTONI CHIMENTO ● ● PRADA MEN’S FASHION FALCONERI ● CROMIA ● ● AUDEMARS PIGUET SEBASTIAN ● ● GIORGIO ARMANI ● LOUIS VUITTON ● BULGARI

CO R

VIA DEL L A SPIG A

VIA M ONTENAPOLEONE

LARUSMIANI ● GUCCI ● ETRO ● NARA CAMICIE ● BOTTEGA VENETA ● SUTOR MANTELLASSI ● VILLA MEISSEN ● FENDI ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● LA PERLA ● MONCLER ● IWC ● SIMONETTA RAVIZZA

BY ANNABELLA ● JAEGER LE-COULTRE ● OFFICINE PANERAI ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ●

VIA D EL L A SPIG A

LU ON ER I ● FA LC EL IA NI ● ● CO RNO VE RT UA ● UE ● PI NK GN BO UT IQ X ZE ER IA GN LE DO ● RO EG IL OR OL OG TT I DE SI VI ER RE ER M EN ● PI SA EP PE ZA NO NC ● ES SO ● GI US LA TB FE RG O SP M ON V IA BO ● GR IF A● AN PI KRIZIA ● LO RO MO ● I RO SS I ● EM ILI O PU CC OR E FE RR AG A AT SE RG IO LV SA ● TOY WATCH ● CELINE ● LE NT IN O VA ● ANGELO FUSCO ● VIA SANTO SPIRIT O SWATCH ● LA NVIN ● TOSCA BLU ● ● ALBERTA FERRETTI HOGAN ● PH ILLI P P PLEI N ● MICHELA BRUNI REICHLIN ● ● MALO BUCCELLATI ● G A NDINI TE SSUTI ● ● MARIANO RUBINACCI PHILIPP PLEIN ● CUSI GIOIELLIERI ● P.36 PAOLO PECOR A ● ● ACQUA DI PARMA DEVI KROELL ● VIA GESÙ VHERNIER ● TIFFA N Y & CO. ● LOEWE ● ● CARTIER FURECO ● ● PAUL & SHARK B ELSTAFF ● A.TESTONI ● ● DIOR P.104 ITALIA INDEPENDENT ● ● GIANFRANCO LOTTI BREGUET ● ● HERMÈS FRANCK MULLER GEN E V E ● FABI ● ● MARNI RICH A RD MILL E ● BALDININI ● ● DIOR GIADA ● RIVOLTA DAL 1883 M I LA NO ● ● BURBERRY ASPESI ● ● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS FAY ● VERSACE ● ● KID SPACE POLLINI ● Marchesi Pasticceria ● ● ALBA ELOISA ● DAMIANI HENRY BEGUELIN ● MIU MIU ● P.106 OMEGA ● R IB ● LO

SO

● PAKERSON ● MONNA LISA ● PRETTY BALLERINAS ● MARISA ● ROCCO BAROCCO ● SARABANDA ● MARNI ● BLUGIRL BLUMARINE ● CARLO MORETTI ● MISS BLUMARINE ● LES COPAINS MAISON MARTIN ● MARGIELA ● SERMONETA GLOVES ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● FABIANA FILIPPI ● ROSATO ● I PINCO PALLINO ● SERAPIAN ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● ALAN JOURNO ● MEGA FASHION ● ATTOS ● NILU FAR ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● Nº 30 MILANO P.52 ● L.B.M. 1911 ● BLUMARINE ● MOSCHINO ● DOLCE & GABBANA

● CHOPAR D ● MICHAE L KORS ● PASQUA LE BRUNI ● PEUTER EY ● LONGCH AMP ● GIÒ MORETT I ● DOLCE & GABBAN A

VEN

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Café

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Featured In This Issue

Metro Station

104 | G U I D E

ER

GH AR TA M

AN AS VI

VIA MENGONI

TOD’S ● SWAROVSKI ● VERSACE ● MERCEDES ME ● ISTITUTO POLIGRAFICO ● STEFANEL ● NARA CAMICIE ● CADÉ ●

GA L LERIA VIT TORIO EMAN U ELE

VIA MENGO NI

● BORSALINO ● CENTENARI ● MEJANA ● PIUMELLI ● CHURCH’S LUISA SPAGNOLI ● ● NOLI DANTE CORDUSIO ● BRIC’S LEO PIZZO ● ● GUCCI Piazza PRADA ● ● GIORGIOCordusio ARMANI ● LOUIS VUITTON ● PRADA ● OXUS ● VIGANÓ ● LIBRERIA BOCCA

AUTOGRILL- TERRAZZA APEROL ●

COMUNE DI MILANO URBAN CENTRE ● RIZZOLI ● ANDREW’S TIES ●

GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE CURRADO ● GRIMOLDI ● RUGGERI ● LA FARMACIA CARLO ERBA ● VIA S.PELLICO SARTORIA ROSSI ● CIELO 1914 ●

I TA

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, Piazza del Duomo & Via Torino

CORSO VITTORIO EMAN UELE DUOMO

● MASSIMO DUTTI

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BENETTON ●

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Piazza Del Duomo

● OY ● LUIGI VERGA ● IN SH O TI TT HK M EG ● IS SW A M A● UE S C B IM A ● EE VE IB M ● TR D I NA LZE T RD A ● E EL ● W E CA R A DO M P i a S S G I O M AY E ● ● CA NI a r z z E S I E L AC ● GE MP M A i a a S P O LO ● ● E IC R Be a R ● F O OX IE SA ● ltr nta T ● LM DE OT ● ad L OI C AW M SIG OC e R A P IP ● AN UA K E U G L GH L M IO R GO AB L ● C I & L & IE NI S ● VI BE LLI KE ● ST KI GAN AR ● ● E ● VE OR GU HL Ò ● R ● C GE E ES ’S ● ● K AR S ● K IK PI LIO ● ● PI E Y O SA TA T AC M K B E LL EZ C I Y ES E O W ENI N ●Y SO DI EIJ S ● RI ● M AM RI XI L ● ZE TO ● O A R A M E ● T T C O AY A I I V● CA BA TR R ON EL Y LO

Piazza Pio XI UT

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ITALIA MISSORI

GIANFRANCO LOTTI Prestigious accessories specialist Gianfranco Lotti has recently opened a new boutique.

To celebrate, 20 limited-edition styles have been created which are exclusive to the store on Via Montenapoleone. In addition, the store carries the brand’s

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latest collection of sophisticated handbags, beautiful gloves and more, all made with the fnest materials and attention to detail.

Gianfranco Lotti, Via Montenapoleone 14, 20121 Milan, +39 02 9132 5892, gianfrancolotti.com

* for map go to page 102

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro Station

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P.38

● NADINE

● H&M

VIA L A RG A

EC AVA LLO TTI ELIC

● SISLEY

● PULL & BEAR ● SEPHORA

● GAP ● BANANA REPUBLIC

AZ PAL

AL

CLARKS ●

SAN BABILA MASSIMO DUTTI ● GEOX ● ● STROILI ORO ● OYSHO ● LUISA SPAGNOLI KIKO ● ● ILLY SWATCH ● ● MILAN MEGA STORE ● MICHAEL KORS GOBBI ● ● PINKO MARILENA ● ● DISNEY SWAROVSKI ● ● LIU JO ● THE HIGHLINE ● FOOT LOCKER

BENETTON ●

A RI

VIA

VI A

ZARA MEN ● ZARA ● CALZEDONIA ●

● NARA CAMICIE ● LIBERO MILANO ● GUTTERIDGE

● BERSHKA MAX MARA ● ● MANGO ● COIN EXCELSIOR MAX&CO ● PENNYBLACK ● ● VERGELIO ● MOTIVI I BLUES ● ● YAMAMAY MARELLA ● MARINA RINALDI ● TEZENIS ●

Piazza Del Duomo

CELIO ● VIA PATT LO ● ALCOTT PA O ● CARPISA SA N & OTHER STORIES ● VIA ● CARPISA TISSOT ● ● FALCONERI JDC URBAN STORE ● ● INTIMISSIMI NARA CAMICIE ● ● SUPERDRY ● FOOTBALL TEAM FURLA ●

LA RINASCENTE ●

H&M ● ROCCA ●

Featured In This Issue

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G U I D E | 105

Corso Vittorio Emanuele

106 | G U I D E

OMEGA The exclusive Via Montenapoleone is the ideal setting for Omega’s newly opened boutique, the frst Italian fagship for the Swiss watchmaker. Spanning three storeys, the shop stocks the brand’s timepieces in addition to its fne jewellery and leather collections. Visitors can expect impeccable, personal service from the highly knowledgeable members of staf.

Via Pietro Verri, Piazza Meda & Via Sant’Andrea

Omega, Via Montenapoleone 9, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0984, omegawatches.com

* for map go to page 102 Via San Pietro all’Orto

VI A

ROSALBA ●

M ON

VIA SANT’ANDREA

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POMELLATO ●

MONDADODRI MULTICENTER ●

SAMSONITE ● MAURO LEONE ●

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● SANDRO FERRONE

BOSE ●

● GUCCI

VI A PIETRO VERRI

● PRONOVIAS

CONTIGO ● CASHMIRINO ●

● MARCO

FOR PETS ONLY ●

● ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ● JIL SANDER

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● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH ZEPTER ● INTERNATIONAL ● BROOKS BROTHERS

’O R ALL

YOUNG VERSACE ●

● PIAGET

● LA MARTINA PIA MARIANI ● ● DSQUARED2 MASSIMO SFORZA ● ● BILANCIONI AGENT PROVOCATEUR ● TUMI ● ● MALIPARMI TOM FORD ● LANIFICIO DI TOLLEGNO ● CANALI ● BALDININI ● ELEVENTY ● PUNTO OTTICO ● Piazza RAVAZZOLO ● Meda CASTELLANI ●

COR SO M AT TEO T TI

TRO

VERSACE COLLECTION ●

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE

PISA OROLOGERIA ● PATEK PHILIPPEPISA OROLOGERIA ● BURBERRY ● ETRO PROFUMI ● CRUCIANI ● JOHN RICHMOND ● VIA BIG LI ICEBERG ●

● BAGUTTA ● IL GUFO

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MASCHIO ●

EYE STYLE ●

SAN

VIA B AG UT

● ISAIA

● MISSONI

CASADEI ●

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ERES ● LE SILLA ● GUIDO PASQUALI ● JIMMY CHOO ●

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BORSALINO ●

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ROGER VIVIER ● BOTTEGA VENETA ● AGNONA ● CHURCH’S ● GIVENCHY ● CARLO ELEUTERI ● TRUSSARDI DAL 1911 ●

● JIL SANDER NAVY ● MOSCHINO P.49 ● HERNO ● GIAMBATTISTA VALLI ERIKA CAVALLINI ● SEMI- COUTURE ● CHANEL ● IRIS ● STUART WEIZMANN ● BANNER ● CESARE PACIOTTI ● DORIANI

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Featured In This Issue

108 | G U I D E

L’ARABESQUE

furniture. Browse the store’s library of out-of-print fashion, photography, interiors, art and flm publications before heading to the restaurant.

L’Arabesque, Largo Augusto 10, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7601 4825, larabesque.net

A visit to L’Arabesque is like taking a step back in time, albeit to a perfectly curated and impeccably stylish version of the past. The store is known for its vintage clothing and costume jewellery alongside rare 1950s and 1960s designer

Corso Buenos Aires

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● GUESS STRADIVARIUS ● FBL ● FOSSIL ● IANA ● SOLARIS ● KIKO ● ● JDC URBAN STORE PEPE JEANS ● STEFANEL ● ● MERREL

EN

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DOUGLAS ● PERSONA ● ALTIERI ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

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Piazza Guglielmo Oberdan

PORTA VENEZIA VI

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BRACCIALINI ● ● CLARKS ● RITA BOUTIQUE PANDORA ● ● LIU JO DESIGUAL ● ● DIECIDECIMI STROILI ORO ● AL ● FURLA GEOX ● ET ● DANIEL & MAYER SWAROVSKI ● UN Grom ● KOCCA IS IA ● ANTONY MORATO L’OCCITANE ● VI AL CALVIN KLEIN AZ ● AERONAUTICA MILITARE JEANS ● ZA ● CARRERA JEANS RO PA ● NIKE MILANO LA ● M COLLECTIVE ZZ I VERGELIO ● Piazza Santa SISTE’S ● ● PIQUADRO Francesca Romana GAMESTOP ● ● GUESS KIDS

IC

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Metro Station

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110 | G U I D E

VENICE Calle Larga XXII Marzo& Salizada San Moisè FRETTE ●

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CONTINI GALLERIA ● D'ARTE

● SERAPIAN

● BURBERRY ● LA COUPOLE

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EMANNO ● SCERVINO ● BALENCIAGA ● CELINE ROBERTO ● CAVALLI ● CHURCH'S ● VHERNIER ● MISSONI ● TOY WATCH ● MARLY'S

OIS È

● CHANEL ● TAG HEUER ● CHANEL ● LORO PIANA

S A LIZ A DA

Campo S. Moise

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DIOR ● RENÈ CAOVILLA ● A. CODOGNATO ● HERMÈS ●

MONCLER ●

OMEGA ● GUETTA ● ● SISLEY LOUIS ZER IA ● VUITTON FREZ DAMIANI ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ● CARTIER ● BOTTEGA VENETA ● MIU MIU ● PRADA MEN ●

P.46

PRADA WOMEN ● VERSACE ● BOTTEGA VENETA ●

P.34

MARINA E SUSANNA SENT ●

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● FABIANA FILIPPI C . D . T E AT R O

LE L A

POMELLATO ●

MONTBLANC ● FEDON ●

SERMONETA ● JESURUM ●

LA COUPOLE ●

CAL

KITON ●

GALLERIA DELL’ ASCENSIONE ●

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ●

P.38

RAGGIO VENEZIANO Located in the charming Campo Santo Stefano, Raggio Veneziano specialises in exquisite leather bags, which are stitched by hand using hides coloured using traditional vegetable dyes. Thoughtful fnishing touches such as Murano glass detailing make any of Raggio Veneziano’s bags a worthwhile memento of Venice and its long tradition of fne craftsmanship.

Global Blue Retailer Café

Raggio Veneziano, Campo Santo Stefano, San Marco 2953, 30124 Venice, +39 041 241 2712, raggioveneziano.com

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

G U I D E | 111

CHOPARD

with diamonds, making the watch perfect for evening, while the minimalist grey and silver colour scheme keeps it looking truly modern: this is understated glamour at its best.

Chopard, Piazza San Marco, San Marco 51, 30124 Venice, +39 041 523 1883, chopard.com

Fans of Chopard’s distinctive Imperiale collection will be delighted by the recent addition of a new jewellery-inspired timepiece, the Imperiale 36mm Joaillerie. Its 18-carat white gold case and motherof-pearl dial are both adorned

Piazza San Marco AL LE

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MAR KUS ● HUG O BOS S ● DEG ANI ● “79B ” ●

Piaz zet a dei Leo ncin i

Piaz za San Mar co

● CEN EDE SE ● TRE VISA N ● IWC ● ROL EX

Caff è Flor ian

● TRE VISA N R.S. ● OFF ICIN E PAN ERA I ● GAL LERI A RAV AGN AN ● CHO PAR D ● FRE Y WILL E ● G. PAG AN ● “55”

● VISC ONT I ORL AND INI ● ARC ADIA ● BOL DRIN ● ENN IO ● JAEG ER-L ECO ULTR E ● “66” ● SALVADO RI ● MAR TINU ZZI ● NAR DI

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● PAU LY ● VEN INI

● LA COU POL E ● ANT IC A MU RRIN A VEN EZIA

● FAB RIS AUD EMA RS ● PIGU ET ● TOK ATZ IAN ● ESP ERIA ● SER END IPIT Y ● BEV ILAC QUA ● BAR BAL ICH

P.114

112 | G U I D E

MARINA RINALDI Layers and textures take centre stage in Marina Rinaldi’s collection for autumn/winter 2015/16, which focuses on a wintry but warm palette of deep greys, navy blues, muted jewel tones and, of course, classic black. Contrasting materials are superimposed to add a new dimension to timeless

silhouettes. Lace and wool add texture, while fashes of bold checks and animal prints stand out against slimming block colours. As always with Marina Rinaldi, the hourglass is the central shape, and the collection wouldn’t be complete without a selection of waistcinching belts.

Marina Rinaldi, Merceria de l’Orologio, San Marco 268, 30124 Venice, +39 041 277 0064, marinarinaldi.com

RE IC NA A M RA BR PLA A N C A O CC Y ● TO MIC A ● VA E LI VE ● AP NE M NI ● TO IE ZI AL M AS TR A Ù SC A ● SI A ● M B B O BA L PA A L D U L LY U ● L Z DIN T T ● I I P I I L E R N I ●● NK I O ● ●

S. S A LV AD OR TO X U STILES LA & BJOUX ● EL OM I R MATERIALMENTE /P NER KE O VENEZIA ● C D O O D O LC L H FROLLO ● ● FA O O TAT C ● F W ● S ● KO CA O K I OX DR PI ● G E UA TE ● IQ LL ● P

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Mercerie di San Salvador, Capitello, San Zulian & dell’Orologio

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Global Blue Retailer

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● MATTIUZZI ● 786 ● BAMPA ● IL CORALLO ● PAGNACCO ● 236 ● SWAROVSKI L’OCCITANE ● 229 ● ● GIOIELLERIA GAMBINO REMINISCENCE ● ● GUCCI DOLCE & GABBANA ● ● VIVICI LE MURRINE VENEZIANE ● ● OTTICA VENEZIANA LA MASCHERA DEL GALEONE ● ● SOLARIS LACOSTE ● ● CARGASACCHI PANDORA ● ● AD RECARLO ● BUCCELLATI ● ● VIVA ● MARINA RINALDI MANDARINA DUCK ● POLLINI ● ● SPAZIO A ROVOLETTO ● ● MORELLATO OREFICERIA DELL’OROLOGIO ● ● KIEHL'S

ME

LA PE RL A● FU RL ●M A● EM MA A X AL DI CA ● M RA ● M IL SO AX GN LA &C ID ● GR ’O R O O● CA ● D OSS MP P ● T E V E N O IN T ER OS IS MA ● AT T E C● ●S O A LV AD OR I ●T R U ●C S AL SARD ZE DO I N IA

723 ● M E FABRIS RICAMI ● R C LA PARIGINA ● E R BIALETTI ● I E LUISA SEMENZATO ● S A LA PARIGINA ● N JB GUANTI ● Z U ASTOLFO ● L I A LIBER ● N R. TIOZZO ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Piazzeta dei Leoni

Featured In This Issue

114 | G U I D E

SERENDIPITY

PHOTO: SERENDIPITYITALY.COM

As befts its location on Piazza San Marco, Serendipity produces jewellery that is exquisite as well as personal.

The designs available are varied, from Murano glass pendants to intricate cameos, but it’s the coral collection that’s a real showstopper. The pieces are made using genuine coral from the Mediterranean, resulting in beautiful, timeless jewellery that you’ll wear again and again.

Serendipity, Piazza San Marco, San Marco 14, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 3273, serendipityitaly.com

* for map go to page 111

Murano TA EN AM ND FO

VETRERIA ARTISTICA LA FENICE ●

DE

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LA

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MAZZEGA GLASS FACTORY ● MARCHETTI MARIA ● CAMPAGNOL E SALVADORE ● PESCE PESCE ● FIORE FIORE ● COLLELLI & OTTERDAHL ●

IN

AN

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ANTICA VETRERIA ● GIOIELLI R.T. MURANO ● NEROPACO ● VETRI D'ARTE RAVANELLO ● VENINI ●

M EN TA M

IP NC SA MO RA

● FERRO VETRO ● APA GIOIELLI ● F.LLI MORETTI ● MOSAICI DONÀ MURANO ● SEGUSO VIRO ● COSE COSÌ ● MIRIAM ● LAMBERTI RAFFAELLA ● VETRI G. BASTIANELLO ● MORI SNC

ARTIZ ● SOFFIO DI VETRO ● EFFE DUE MURANO ● PICCOLI PENSIERI ● DOMUS VETRI D’ARTE ●

FO ND AM EN TA DE IV ET

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● L'ARTE MURANESE ● F & M BALLARIN ● M. CAVAGNIS OROVETRO ● ● NASON MORETTI MURANO IL VETRO DI FUGA ● ● ORIGINAL MURANO SCHIAVON MURANO ● ● BOTTEGA DEL VETRO CESARE TOFFOLO ● ● ARTIGIANATO VENEZIANO LUCEVETRO ● ● VETROMANIA BAROVIER & TOSO ● ● ART BIJOUX GIAMPAOLO NASON VETRI ARTISTICI ● ● ANDREA 2000 FRANCO SCHIAVON GALLERY ● ● CARLO MORETTI VETRERIA COLONNA ● ● C&G CESARE SENT ● ● LINEA MURANO ART SCHIAVON ● ● FORNACE GINO MAZZUCCATO CAM ● ● VETRERIA ARTISTICA GRITTI

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

116 | G U I D E

FLORENCE Via de’ Tornabuoni, Via degli Strozzi & Via Porta Rossa BOTTEGA QUATTRO ● DEGAIA ●

● CELLERINI

POMELLATO ●

PRADA ●

P.50

Piazza della Repubblica

TWIN SET ●

VIA CALIMALA

BORSALINO ●

MICHELE NEGRI ●

MONTGOMERY ●

● EREDI CHIARI

● ALPHA STUDIO

● GIOEL

QUERCIOLI E ● LUCHERINI

V I A P O R TA ● ● ● ROSSA ● ● A L PA R I B ● A ● ● BA BE MP MO ER S MI G ● O ● N ● L ● V ● U AS LE RT AL W NA PES SS A Z T T OI E V AL OM PES A NC F O A RD I ON Z A IN AN MA O I RR O I IA ER NI O IT R A' GA R IN ET I VIA TI SPACE ● DE MUSEO LL DIOR ● E TE SALVATORE FERRAGAMO IL GUFO ● RM DESMO ● ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO E P.146 ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SERGIO ROSSI ●

BRANDY MELVILLE ●

VIA DE' SASSE TTI

ALISI ●

BARONI ●

BURBERRY ● OMEGA ●

MATTOLINI ●

MONTBLANC ● GIANFRANCO LOTTI ● PRADA ● SAVE THE QUEEN! ● ARMANI JUNIOR ● DODO ● TIFFANY & CO. ●

● MILORD PELLICCERIA ● ROMANELLI ● GIORGIO ARMANI ● INNIU ● FENDI ● LORO PIANA ● ELEUTERI OLFATTORIO MUSEO ● DELLE CIPRIE ● DAMIANI ● CÉLINE ● PUCCI DOLCE & ● GABBANA

● PAUL & SHARK

GUCCI ● ANNE FONTAINE ●

● PATRIZIA PEPE

VIA DEGLI STROZZI PALAZZO EMPORIO STROZZI ● ARMANI

VA GUCCI ●

LOUIS ● VUITTON

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G-STAR RAW ●

DA

CARTIER ● BOTTEGA VENETA ●

PA

● LOCMAN ITALY ● CASADEI ● LORI BLU P.37 ● MAX MARA

HOGAN ● PARENTI ●

FALCONERI ● DOLCE & GABBANA ●

AS

LUISA SPAGNOLI ● BARDUCCI ● LA PERLA ● UGO POGGI ● TOY WATCH ● MANILA GRACE ●

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VIA DE’ PECORI

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P.122

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● ERMANNO SCERVINO ● MOMONI

HERMÈS ● LORETTA CAPONI ● LES COPAINS ●

P.120

Via della Vigna Nuova

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VIA MONALDA

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V I A D E ' TO R N A B U O N I

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HI S ACC O LO ● PA C C I ● RLD ● GU C O SI ● G W O A IR E T LT N T IN IO T ● ● H U D IG & V O PA C O N ARE ON P I ● ● Z A GI G CES R E T P TO N A L ● ● BO OSTE C S E C A O L O M A R IO I ● ● LA P E R IA A L L IN I ● RD F U M C AV C C H H O PA ELLI C ● P R O M IL IO R E B E N O B I ● U C IN E IM O LO C S S I Z E S IA ● S UNEL RO B IA IE S ● MAS ● B R R T O R IA B S CO ● SA N C E IVA B A IN IN I ●● D D FR A E B A L R ID G E ● C O L IN R TE LY ● RU E ID E G U T 9 ITA S ● ● P IN D IN I 0 0 3 A IA N A E ● ER AR H AVA D U R E O ● E ● G H OZ E R R ONT L ETR ● A LCE Y E W E A ● IL B IS ● OP 18

Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

LP

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Place Of Interest

118 | G U I D E

Historic Florentine company Il Bisonte has won acclaim the world over for its topquality leather goods. The brand balances sensibility of its heritage with skilled anticipation of the needs and tastes of its many fans.

The autumn/winter 2015/16 collection focuses on Il Bisonte’s timeless styles, adapted to suit the needs of its wearers. Expect shoulder and messenger bags alongside backpacks in a practical range of sizes. Visit the Via del Parione boutique to admire

Via Roma & Via Calimala

PHOTO: ALESSANDRO MOGGI

IL BISONTE

the new materials and striking colour combinations, such as the vibrant Pompeii red cotton canvas and emerald green suede linings.

Il Bisonte, Via del Parione 31R-33R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 215722, ilbisonte.com

* for map go to page 116 Via dei Calzaiuoli Piazza del Duomo

ARMANDO POGGI ● INTIMISSIMI ● GREISY ●

● EMPORIO ARMANI VIA DEI TOSINGHI ● MIU MIU ● ROBERTO BIAGINI

MASSIMO DUTTI ●

● ZARA ● CLARKS VIA O R S A N M I C H E L E ● CORNELIANI ● SANDRO PARIS ● LIU JO VIA DEI LAMB ERTI ● DIESEL ● LIU JO ● PUMA

VIA DEGLI SPEZIALI GOLDEN POINT ●

VIA DEI CALZ A IU O LI

V I A PO RTA ROSSA

VIA DEI TOSINGHI MIGONE ● CARPISA ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ● DISNEY ●

ACQUA DELL'ELBA ● SWAROVSKI ● LOMBARDI ● ATHLETIC WORD ● FALCONERI ●

VIA CALIMALA

GEOX ● PIQUADRO ● TWIN SET ●

VIA DEI CALZAIUOLI

MORESCHI ● CALIMALA 31 ● GUYA ● ROY ROGERS ● ATOS LOMBARDINI ● GOLF ● ZARA ●

VIA CALIMALA

VIA PELLICCERIA

Piazza della Repubblica

MAX & CO ●

PROFUMERIA ALINE ●

● MICHAEL KORS ● BOSS STORE MYWALIT ● VIA DEGLI SPEZIALI LA RINASCENTE ● DIESEL ●

CALZAIUOLI 91 ●

● ENRICO VERITÀ ● TIM ● BATA VIA DELLE OCHE

● FREY WILLE ● FIRENZE PRATESI ● STROILI ORO ● MANETTI ● GERONICO ● OROLOGERIA R MARRETTI ● KIKO ● TEZENIS ● YAMAMAY

VIA DEL CORSO ● CALZEDONIA ● WOLFORD ● PYLONES ● COIN ● MOSSA ● STEFANEL

V I A D E I TAV O L I N I

VIA DEI LAMBERT I

PUSATERI ● RE NERO ● L’OCCITANE ● BEMPORAD ● VIA P O RTA ROSSA FARMACIA MOLTENI ● CORSANI ● ATESETA ● FOSSIL ● CHANEL ●

Global Blue Retailer

VIA DEI CALZAIUOLI

● GUCCI ● PINKO ● LIU JO UOMO ● MISS SIXTY

VIA ROMA

SISLEY ●

VIA ROMA

PRADA ● LE SILLA ● LUISA VIA ROMA ● LONGCHAMP ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer

● LEATHER FACTORY

● LUISA SPAGNOLI ● COCCINELLE ● NARA CAMICIE ● SOLARIS ● QUERCIOLI ● GUIDORENI VI A DELL A C O N DOT TA ● FURLA

Piazza della Signoria

A

TORRINI ●

VIA D

● MUSIC CENTER ● CASINI SOUVENIR ● MURANO

● ● ● ●

PELUSO LE VANITÀ FOTO LOCCHI LUSH

V I A D E L P RO CO N S O LO

PELUSO ● ANDREA PALOMBINI ●

● ART STORE ● EMPORIO ITALIANO FIRENZE ● NANTE CORNICI ● ARSA ARREDI SACRI

GINGER ●

● PIUMINI DANESI AVIREX ● FLORENCE’S VIA DEL CORSO ● ● SECRET ● KODAK FILM

LEATHER FASHION ● CAFE' NOIR ●

● FUORI SKEMA ● FIORI DEL TEMPO ● GLAMOUR ● PAOLA P. ● RIKA BIJOUX ● PARAGON ● GALLERIA DEL CHIANTI ● SARAH PACINI ● FUSION BOUTIQUE ● DAVID 2 ● PIERO PULITI ● KIEHL'S ● FABRIANO VI A D EI CERCHI ● COIN ● BRASCHI ● MAURO GIULI ● MATUCCI ● CLARISSA BIGIOTTERIA

VI A D EI CALZ A IUO LI

ANTICA CUOIERIA ● DIXIE ● SUPER DRY ● AL VIOLA ● NERO GIARDINI ● YAMAMAY ● MONNALISA ●

VIA CALIMALA

VIA DEI LAMB ER T I

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MONTI ● SOUVENIR OF FLORENCE ● IL PAPIRO ● L'ANTICA CANTINA DEL CHIANTI ● TORNABUONI ● ITAL PEL ● TRE ANGELI SOUVENIR ● FAVILLI ● LINDT MAITRE CHOCOLATIER ● APOSTOLATO LITURGICO ● BIFFOLI SHOP ●

UNIVERSO SPORT ● LEATHER FLORENCE ●

RASPINI ●

SWATCH ●

PROFUMERIA ALINE ●

PIAZZ A DEL DUOM O

VIA ROMA

VIA ORSANMIC HELE

● FLAVIO PELLETTERIE ● LIBRERIA SAN PAOLO ● FLAVIO PELLETTERIE S. M. DEL FIORE ● LEATHER FACTORY

UOMO

LD

GILARDINI ●

VIA DELLE OCHE

VIA DEI TOSINGHI

* for map go to page 116

Loretta Caponi’s exquisite, hand-embroidered textiles have been bought by everyone from British princesses to pop royalty. Caponi learned to embroider when she was a child, and by 1967 she had opened her frst shop. Each

DE PRIMA DONNA ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Retailer

Piazza del Duomo

Piazza di San Giovanni

OFFICINE PANERAI ●

item in the lavish Piazza Antinori boutique, whether it’s a tablecloth, pillowcase or piece of clothing, is made entirely by hand in the company’s workshop in Florence.

Loretta Caponi, Piazza Antinori 4R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 213668, lorettacaponi.com

LORETTA CAPONI

PIA Z Z

VIA CERRETANI

VIA DEL CORSO

Piazza della Repubblica

B ORG

120 | G U I D E

Piazza del Duomo & Via del Corso

PATRIZIA PEPE ●

122 | G U I D E

APROSIO & CO

dimensional bead working.

The result is a collection that includes everything from deceptively simple earrings to intricate necklaces featuring insects, fruit and fowers.

Aprosio & Co, Via della Spada 38R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 265 4077, aprosio.it

Ornella Aprosio creates striking contemporary jewellery using Murano glass beads and Bohemian crystals. Every item in her Florence store is made by hand, using natural materials and painstaking techniques such as crochet, knitting, needlepoint and three-

* for map go to page 116

VIA

DE

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BR

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CA

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● BONGI ● GUYA

M

●

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MA ● M RIN A ST ILIT ● I ONE ARE S ● L LAN D A AN BAD ● C NAM IA AM AR MI IA LLI

Via Por Santa Maria & Ponte Vecchio VIA V AC

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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 58: Enduring Style

Бессмертный Стиль Джош Симс рассказывает о итальянской группе компаний Slowear, которая выступает против скоротечной моды, предлагая взамен инновационные и долговечные ткани Скоротечная мода подразумевает быстрый оборот одежды текущих трендов по очень доступным, практически бросовым ценам, и, делая такие заявления компания Slowear звучит довольно старомодно, а это, пожалуй, последнее, что должно характеризовать какойлибо модный бренд. Однако итальянская корпорация, как можно понять из ее названия, не торопится радикально менять стиль для стимулирования продаж. «Несмотря на свою необычность, название Slowear показалось нам идеальным описанием нашей философии, – говорит сооснователь корпорации Роберто Компаньо, в подчинении которого также находится семейная компания Incotex, основанная еще его отцом в 1951 году. – Мы против скоротечной моды так globalblue.com

же, как движение Slow Food, противостоит системе быстрого питания. Такая идея вызывала большее удивление 10 лет назад, и многие представители модной индустрии считали нас странными ребятами. Сейчас наши идеи находят повсеместное одобрение». Подобно различным компаниям из других отраслей, Slowear старается отвечать требованиям потребителей, нуждающихся в изделиях с экологичным и долговечным дизайном. Компаньо полагает, что подобно продуктовой индустрии, потребителей которой волнует происхождение того или иного товара, индустрия моды также будет объектом пристального изучения со стороны покупателей, тем более, что уровень потребительского сознания в последнее время значительно вырос, как впрочем и качество изделий. К слову о происхождении товара, компания имеет довольно необычную историю производства. Изначально корпорация Incotex занималась производством исключительно военной формы, затем появилась линия брюк. «Со временем мы произвели над брюками все возможные манипуляции, и решили, что настало время для нового

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направления», – делится Компаньо. Череда поглощений и слияний привела в корпорацию ряд малоизвестных, но квалифицированных компаний, включая Glanshirt – специализирующуюся на рубашках, Montedoro – на верхней одежде и Zanone – на трикотаже, кроме того была запущена новая линия одежды Archivio, в основу которой легли ткани из архивов Incotex. Эти «медленные бренды», как их называет Компаньо, до сих пор функционируют, выпуская одежду, как оптом, так и для индивидуальных коллекций, реализующихся в магазинах Ofcina Slowear. Недавно состоялось открытие второго магазина в Париже и одного в Падуе, также планируется открытие множества представительств в других городах мира, в том числе в Нью-Йорке. Медленно, но уверенно Slowear набирает обороты. Отдельного упоминания заслуживает подход компании к дизайну. Вместо того чтобы выпускать сезонные коллекции, бренд создает новые серии тогда, когда посчитает нужным, а точнее, когда технический департамент, на исследовательские нужды которого приходится 5% оборота компании, создаст что-то по-настоящему новое. К слову, бренд может похвастаться солидным портфолио в области инноваций. В число созданных

предприятием тканей входят: Chinolino – смесь хлопка и льна, сохранившая дышащие свойства одного и мягкость другого материала; Incochino – крашенный в пряже габардин с тройной конструкцией, разработка которой заняла без малого пять лет; есть также Flexwool, Ice Cotton и Shade Cashmere, не глядя на которые лишь по названию можно понять, что речь идет о высоких технологиях. Компания также смело может претендовать на новаторскую технику окрашивания одежды, а именно применения красителя на уже готовую продукцию, нежели использование предварительно окрашенных тканей. Производство требует неукоснительного следования инструкциям: каждая рубашка Glanshirt, например, проходит тройную стирку, при которой ткань не травмируется, но наоборот приобретает дополнительную свежесть. «Вы можете услышать

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множество историй о том, как итальянские компании неизменно следуют своим традициям, заложенным еще десятки или сотни лет назад, – говорит Компаньо. – Мы вам таких сказок не расскажем. В нашем производстве используется самое современное оборудование, способствующее развитию новых технологий и соответственно более качественных продуктов. Мы считаем, что если создать правильный крой и пропорции, то одежда не только не износится, но и будет выглядеть современно даже 50 лет спустя. Мне кажется, что наш подход можно назвать самым что ни наесть прогрессивным. Создание одежды сомнительного качества, да еще и по заоблачным ценам в наши дни выглядит занятием довольно странным. Покупатели стремятся к индивидуальному подходу в поиске нужных вещей. Определенную роль в этом вопросе сыграл и экономический кризис, вследствие которого название бренда уже не так влияет на выбор одежды. Они хотят инновационных и качественных продуктов по разумным ценам. То же относится и к покупательскому опыту. Чтобы лишний раз подчеркнуть корпоративный девиз «качество по разумной цене», компания не тратится на излишества в интерьере бутиков: нет ни globalblue.com

мрамора, ни дорогого стекла. Это, по словам Компаньо, было бы просто не правильно для бренда, для которого важен не показной эффект, а суть, не мимолетность, а долговечность моды. «В последние годы мода не уделяла никакого внимания качеству, потому что не было смысла, – говорит он. – Мода проходит, не успев появиться. Однако такому положению дел суждено измениться. И брендам придется измениться в том числе». slowear.com 68: Paper Trail

Бумажный След Легендарные итальянские производители канцелярских товаров достойно реагируют на вызовы современности без ущерба традиционному мастерству, – рассказывает Верити Хоган Традиционная итальянская бумага восхищала не одно поколение ценителей изящного, начиная от герцогов Савойи и заканчивая молодыми аристократами, отправлявшимися в путешествие «Гран-тур». Сегодня бумажная индустрия страны по-прежнему почивает на лаврах славы. Большая часть производства основывается на лучших традиционных материалах, а техника изготовления мало чем отличается от той, что применялась в начале 18

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века. Ассортимент изделий весьма широк и охватывает практически все: от кожаных ежедневников и тисненой бумаги для письма до визитных карточек и картонных ящиков. Старейший из имеющихся в Европе бумажных документов (не считая пергаментных) хранится в государственном фонде в Палермо. Текст документа написан на арабском и греческом языке, а сам документ датируется 1109 годом. Принято полагать, что начиная с 13 века, итальянские мастера освоили древний способ производства бумаги и решили поставить дело на коммерческую основу, мгновенно получив всемирное признание. Не много компаний могут похвастаться столь же богатым опытом в сфере производства бумаги, как у Fabriano, чья история началась еще в 1264 году. Своим

именем компания обязана небольшому городу Фабриано в регионе Марке. Это место стало крупным центром бумажной промышленности из-за свой близости к порту Анкона, в который регулярно прибывали грузы из стран Ближнего Востока. Бумага для рисования, производившаяся здесь в 15 столетии, получила высокую оценку самого Микеланджело. Именно в этом городе были открыты многие инновационные технологии, использующиеся по сей день, например, водяные знаки и способ грунтования бумаги с помощью желатина. Компания Fabriano возникла на базе тех самых ремесленных мастерских и смогла сохранить популярность благодаря своей способности адаптироваться, замечать новые тенденции и реагировать на изменение потребительского спроса. Ассортимент продукции давно вышел за рамки изобразительного искусства и стал включать привычные канцелярские принадлежности, блокноты и наборы для письма. Сегодня компания также старается придерживаться экологичности производства, используя в качестве источника энергии собственную ГЭС. В то же время продукция другой известной компании Il Papiro остается верна бесхитростной ремесленнической традиции, а каждый из 18 магазинов

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бренда повторяет элегантную атмосферу самого первого бутика компании, открытого во Флоренции. Ассортимент варьируется от записных книжек с «огуречным» орнаментом до кожаных ежедневников и восхитительной мраморной бумаги ручной работы. Основатели компании Франческо Джаннини и Джанни Паренти родились во Флоренции и имеют тесные связи с местной общиной ремесленников. Своей главной задачей они считают сохранение исторического шарма и первоклассного качества, бросающего вызов скоротечным тенденциям.

Pineider – один из старейших производителей бумаги. Свой первый магазин Франческо Пинейжер открыл в 1774 году и сумел снискать расположение самых взыскательных клиентов. «Наши канцелярские принадлежности уникальны globalblue.com

и известны практически во всем мире благодаря своему непревзойденному качеству и эксклюзивным способам печати наших мастеров-художников, – поясняет пресс-секретарь компании Линда Замбони. – Наша бумажная продукция не содержит хлора, а используемые чернила только натурального происхождения. Что касается методов, то мы применяем традиционную итальянскую технику, благодаря которой бумага приятна на ощупь и идеальна для письма». Компания смогла успешно существовать на протяжении более чем 240 лет, сохраняя свои бесценные традиции. Конечно, не обошлось и без современных технологий. «Разумеется, новые методы и технологии повлияли на некоторые производственные процессы, – говорит Замбони, – но окраска некоторых элементов в наших коллекциях до сих пор осуществляется мастерами вручную, как в старые добрые

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времена. То же относится и к картонным ящикам для хранения вещей, которые создаются вручную у нас в цехе». Широкий ассортимент продукции Pineider, включающий буквально все, от оригинальных визитных карточек до роскошной писчей бумаги с рельефными узорами и гербами, порой привлекал немало знаменитостей. Среди клиентов компании были такие писатели, как Лорд Байрон и Элизабет Барретт Браунинг, а также голливудские звезды, от Марлен Дитрих до Элизабет Тейлор. «Самые изысканные покупатели отдают предпочтение нашей продукции, – говорит Замбони, и мы чрезвычайно благодарны всем, кто ценит уникальное качество канцелярских принадлежностей, рожденных в Италии». На сегодняшний день в коллекции бренда представлен широкий ряд товаров: от изящной бумаги для особо важных писем с ручной гравировкой до современных открыток и конвертов квадратной формы. Коллекция элегантных открыток и конвертов Capri отличается оригинальными рисунками и окаймлением, нанесенным вручную с использованием исключительно натуральных пигментов, и вдобавок имеет подкладку из папирусной бумаги. Компания не прекращает развиваться. Замбони делится очередной

инновацией, державшейся до недавних пор в секрете: Pineider собирается запустить новейшую технологию нанесения изображений. По ее словам это «позволит наносить вручную рельефный каллиграфический текст». В мире, где господствуют электронные системы коммуникации, отрадно видеть, что в Италии спрос на качественные письменные принадлежности не только не упал, но и вырос. Компании, которые прежде были нацелены лишь на представителей творческой элиты и аристократовпутешественников, теперь стараются отвечать всем вызовам современного общества, не теряя при этом своего уникального шарма. Замбони поясняет: «Ручная гравировка возникла много веков назад, но время не стоит на месте, и появляется много новых техник. Лишь одно вечно останется неизменным – это точность и мастерство художника-гравировщика». fabriano.com, ilpapirofrenze.it, pineider.com 78: Man On A Mission

Миссия Выполнима Джорджио Армани отмечает 40-летие своего одноименного модного дома и по-прежнему строит планы на будущее, – рассказывает Ханна Льюис В начале этого года Джорджио Армани в окружении 500

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гостей из числа голливудских звезд и политических деятелей с большим размахом отпраздновал 40-летие основания своего легендарного дома моды. Одновременно с открытием выставки Expo Milano 2015 бренд Armani презентовал новую экспозицию Armani/Silos, устроил грандиозный шоу-показ избранных работ, а в конце дня пригласил всех участников на коктейль в ночной клуб Armani Privé. Праздничное шоу перенесло гостей на четыре десятилетия назад к самым истокам создания линии кутюр Giorgio Armani Privé. Это была впечатляющая ретроспектива из 160 образов, демонстрирующих очарование, разнообразие и необычайно яркую для бренда палитру. Представленные работы, от многослойных юбок-пачек кремового цвета до алых платьев в пол, ясно свидетельствовали о неиссякаемом таланте дизайнера и его способности создавать красивую и неподвластную времени одежду. Поразительно, но это всего лишь малая часть всего портфолио Armani. Модный дом объединяет в целом восемь различных брендов, выпускающих все: от аксессуаров и предметов интерьера до детской одежды и бальных платьев. В одной только Италии насчитывается 49 торговых площадок марки, globalblue.com

включая флагманский магазин Armani Casa, кафе Armani café и вышеупомянутый клуб Club Privé. Достижения Armani за последние 40 лет можно изучать днями и все-равно это будет лишь поверхностью айсберга. Как однажды заявил сам дизайнер: «Я сделал все». Он удивительно практичен во всем, что делает, начиная от первоначальных эскизов и заканчивая мельчайшими корректировками по выбору ткани, – всеми процессами Армани руководит лично. Многие модные обозреватели, включая самого дизайнера, видят секрет плодотворности его творчества в позднем начале карьеры. Сейчас дизайнеру 81 год, а свой знаменитый бренд он основал, когда ему уже исполнилось 40. И даже за эти четыре декады ему удалось создать столько, сколько обычный человек создавал бы всю свою жизнь. Марка Armani возникла в 1975 году, и уже год спустя успех от его коллекций прокатился волной по всему миру. Представленная им серия готовой одежды как нельзя лучше отвечала требованиям современной женщины тех времен. Коллекции Armani сыграли первоочередную роль в формировании образа эпохи, и в то время как другие компании были преданы забвению вместе с

PHOTO: DAVIDE LOVATTI

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прошедшими трендами, бренду удалось остаться лидером во многих направлениях, от костюмов до вечерних платьев. Талантливый дизайнер всегда думает о следующем сезоне, и Армани обладает практически сверхъестественной способностью создавать такую одежду, которая мгновенно становится актуальной и классической. Одежда Armani – это одежда, которая будет носиться целую вечность. На новой выставочной площадке Armani/Silos, открывшейся одновременно с ретроспективным шоу-показом и торжественным вечером, было представлено 600 ключевых образов, а также коллекция эскизов, зарисовок и образцов тканей из архивов Armani. Ни в коей мере это нельзя назвать музеем, ведь Armani чужда стагнация. Ожидается, что экспозиция будет обновляться каждые шесть месяцев. Помещение выставки, служившее ранее в качестве амбара, было тщательно отреставрировано, но при

этом сохранило многие детали изначального помещения, – так Armani демонстрирует свою страсть к сочетанию традиций и современности. Расположенный в другом конце города флагманский бутик Armani Montenapoleone недавно был модернизирован. Магазин, находящийся в старинном здании Palazzo Taverna, также сочетает в себе черты старого и нового. Планировка была возвращена к исходному варианту, но каждая комната была убрана роскошными материалами, такими как мрамор и оникс. Здесь можно найти наиболее полную коллекцию бренда, а также услугу пошива одежды по индивидуальному заказу. Милан был самым очевидным местом для открытия флагманского магазина. И хотя дизайнер родом из Пьяченцы, жил, работал и основал свой бренд он именно в Милане. Несмотря на впечатляющие достижения, дизайнер не собирается останавливаться

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на достигнутом. В настоящий момент он работает над созданием серии аксессуаров, в том числе над сумками, которые будут выходить вне зависимости от привычных сезонов. Армани не привык полагаться на аксессуары так, как это делают другие дома моды, но аудиторию своих поклонников он знает отлично, поэтому решил преподнести им сюрприз. Презентация сумки Le Sac 11 была приурочена к юбилейному торжеству: она имеет классический дизайн в минималистском стиле, удобную ручку и доступна в трех размерах и различных цветовых решениях. Цифра «11» была выбрана не случайно: день рождения Армани выпадает на 11 число, а знаменитая штаб-квартира компании также находится в доме под номером 11. Несмотря на такой намек, сумка была создана с учетом настоящего и будущего, как, впрочем, и все остальные творения бренда. Изысканный дизайн, разработанный для сегодняшнего дня, чтобы служить многие годы – именно в этом заключается философия Armani. armani.com 124: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

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1951年开始营业。 “我们反对快时尚，

美文翻译

58: Enduring Style

PHOTO: © ANDREA SOTTANA

历久弥新，经典不朽

意大利服 装集团 Slowe a r 拒绝快时 尚，热爱经久耐用的创新面料，Josh Sims报道 说起快时尚——也就是以非常实惠、 近乎 低 廉 的价 格紧跟 潮 流，不 断翻 新——Slowear 的态度乍听起来十分 保守，而“保守”可是一家服装公司难 以承受的。然而，如其名所示，这家意 大利服装集团并不急于通过大幅改动 风格款式来带动销售。 “‘Slowear’这个词就像是我们经 营理念的总和，即使它是一个挺奇怪 的词儿， ”集团联 合创始人 Rober to Compagno说道。其父曾在威尼斯创 立家族服装企业 Incotex，该公司自

就像慢食运动反对快餐一样。短短十 年前，这个点子还很奇异，行业里的许 多人都认为我们是怪胎。现在有更多 人能理解它了。” 为了迎 合小众 消 费 者对产 品可 持续性及“从摇篮到坟墓”的设计要 求，Slowear 致力于将此标准带到服 装行业中来。Compagno认为，正如 人们越来越关注食品的原产地，同样 的兴趣也适用于服装业；尤其是在当 今，时尚消费者对生产、利润和品质的 理解提升了，而这很大程度上是得益 于互联网的帮助。 为此，Slowear有着不同寻常的公司结 构。最初，Incotex公司靠生产军用制 服起家，之后转而专营各类长裤， “到 后来在长裤方面已经没有什么我们没 做过的了，于是我们开始将同样的理念 应用到其他产品身上， ”Compagno说 道。经过一系列收购运作，该集团麾下 集结了一些不甚知名但却堪称同侪标 杆的专业品牌，其中包括专擅衬衫的 Glanshirt、专擅外套的Montedoro 和专擅针织衫的Zanone；集团还围绕 Incotex档案馆中的各类织物，推出了 一个全新的服装系列Archivio。 这些Compagno所说的“慢一些 的品牌”仍然存在，既经营批发业务， 也在越来越多的Officina Slowear商 店中设有零售专柜。最近，巴黎的第二 家分店和意大利帕多瓦（Padua）首家 门店均已开业，还有众多新店即将揭 幕，包括一家纽约专店。Slowear正在 提速。 接下来要说的就是 Slowear 的设 计方法了。Slowear 并不打造季节系 列，而是定期发布新品，但仅限于公 司认为最合适的时候：简而言之，就 是其技 术部门— —该部门吸纳公司 营业额的 5 %，专门用于研发— — 创 造出新 的东西的时候。S l o w e a r 在 这一方面 取得 的辉 煌 成 绩 颇 令人赞 叹。在其众多专利面料之中，有一种

136 叫 C h i n o l i n o 的面 料，它是棉 布和 亚 麻 布 的结 合 体，既 保留了前者 的 柔韧，又不乏后者的透气性能。还有 Incochino，这是一种三向结构的原 纱染色华达呢，其研发共费时五年。 还有Flexwool、Ice Cotton和Shade Cashmere ——不用细看就知道，这 些都是高科技产品。 该 公司还 拥 有一项首创 的服 装 染色手法——用染料给成衣染色，而 非用已经染好的面料制作成衣。公司 的生产过程同样一丝不苟：例如，每 一件 Glanshirt 衬衫都要经过三次洗 涤，通过特殊处理，在不磨损面料的 同时，让其更为舒适贴身。 “关于老牌意大利公司仍然坚持 着他们几十年、几百年前做法的故事 有许许多多， ”Compagno说。 “但我们 并不是那样的。我们选用市场上技术 最先进的机器，致力于推动创新，打造 出最好的产品。我们的思路是，如果 你把搭配和比例弄对了，很多衣服仍 然可以穿出来，而且再过 50 年都不会 显得过时。我认为我们采取的是一种 有远见的做法。目前来说，做出糟糕的 质量或标出天价都不是正确的选择。 顾客想通过更加私人的方式来寻找适 合他们的产品。经济不景气意味着他 们对品牌的关注更少了。他们想要价 位合理、品质优异的创新产品。” 这个道理同样可以放到购物体验 上来。仿佛是在强调该公司“物必有所 值”的价值理念，用于店铺内饰的预算 并不充裕：既没有大理石地板，也没 有昂贵的玻璃制品。正如Compagno 所说，对于一个注重实质而非华美外 在、推崇持久耐用而非时尚快餐的公 司来说，那些东西都是不适合的。 “近 些年来，时尚界从未注意产品质量， 因为注意了也没有意义， ”他说。 “不等 你意识到，时尚就已经过时了。但那 种态度正在改变。任何品牌也都必须 改变。”

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68: Paper Trail 纸张的探索之路 无需牺牲时间赋予的魅力，意大利的 传统文具商顺势而变，满足现代人的 需求，Verity Hogan报道 无论是萨伏伊公爵们（Dukes of Savoy）还是大旅行（Grand Tour） 时代的年轻贵族，在生活中追求精品 的人无不崇尚意大利的手工纸品。如 今，意大利的文具商依旧享誉全球。 绝大多数手工纸选用最上乘的传统原 料，并采用十八世纪初传承至今几无 改变的工艺。意大利文具品种繁多， 质量上乘，既有皮面日记本、定制绸 纹纸，还有名片和有盖储存盒等高品 质小配件。 欧洲已知最古老的纸质文档（ 与羊皮纸文档相对）现存于巴勒莫 （Palermo）的国家档案馆中。纸上用 阿拉伯语和希腊语记载了文字，其历 史可以追溯到1109年。但直到十三世 纪，意大利的文具商们才将古老的制 纸工艺转化为重要的商品，意大利也 进而成为了世界闻名的造纸大国。 几乎没有哪些公司的历史传统比 Fabriano还要辉煌。Fabriano的历 史可以追溯到1264年，公司的名字源 于所在地——马尔凯（Marche）的 Fabriano小镇。该地之所以能一举 成为造纸中心，很大一部分原因是因 为靠近阿拉伯贸易的必经之地安科纳 （Ancona）港口。十五世纪，这里生 产的画纸得到米开朗琪罗的青睐，令 他赞不绝口。小镇造纸坊当年的先进 工艺如今在造纸业已屡见不鲜，例如 水印和表层粘合剂的使用。 Fabriano从这些手工坊演变而 来，顺势而变、适应潮流，满足顾客 不断变化的需求。产品种类不仅仅 拘泥于美术用品，还包括日常的办公 用品、绘图册以及精美绝伦的书写工 具。如今，Fabriano还致力于使用可

137 再生能源，在生产中广泛使用自生的 水电力。 相比之下，Il Papiro的产品则坚 守工艺传统，旗下18家专卖店无不弥 漫着传统的气息，彰显出公司在佛罗 伦萨的第一家专卖店的优雅气质。店 内出售独特精美的涡纹笔记本、皮制 日记本以及令人心醉的大理石纹手工 纸。公司老板 Francesco Giannini和 Gianni Parenti出生于佛罗伦萨，与 城市的工匠群体保持密切联系，确保 产品不失历史魅力，历久而弥新。 Pineider是意大利最古老的造 纸商之一。自Francesco Pineider 于1774年开设第一家专卖店以 来，Pineider 一直服务于高品位 的顾客群体。 “我们是一家独一无 二、享誉全球的文具商，纸浆质量 上乘，采用手工雕刻大师的精致印 刷工艺， ”Pineider的发言人 Linda Zamboni说道。 “我们生产的纸品都 是无氯的，使用全天然墨水，采用传统 的意大利手工工艺，触感极佳，书写流 畅。”公司传承了创始之初的传统生产 工艺，并发展壮大240余年。不过，生 产中也融入了现代工艺。Zamboni 表 示， “当然，现代工艺和技术改变了一 些生产流程，但是一些系列的饰边上 色还是由手工完成，和几百年前一模 一样。我们的纸盒同样也是在工坊里 手工制作的。” 从定制的名片到饰有优雅浮雕 文字和纹章的书写纸，Pineider 纷 繁的产品吸引了一大批坚定的簇拥 者。曾经的顾客包括如雷贯耳的大 文豪拜伦勋爵（Lord Byron）和伊 丽莎白·芭蕾特·布朗宁（Elizabeth Barrett Browning），以及玛琳·黛德 丽（Marlene Dietrich）和伊丽莎白· 泰勒（Elizabeth Taylor）等好莱坞影 星。Zamboni表示： “我们的顾客品味 十分高雅。我们忠心感谢那些欣赏意 大利制造文具独一无二品质的顾客。” 如今，公司经营的文具种类丰

富，既包括为特殊场合精心打造的产 品——饰有手工雕刻手写字母的纸 张、饰以印刷彩边的时尚方形卡片和 信封——也有卡布里岛系列（Capri） ，即天然颜料手工饰边的纸品和与 之相配、衬有纸巾的信封。公司从 未停止推陈出新的脚步。Zamboni 女士为我们披露此前不为人知的消 息：Pineider即将推出一项全新的雕 刻技术。她表示， “这项工艺能够运用 手写文字手工雕刻模型打造浮雕印 刷效果。” 现代社会电子产品在沟通交流中 的作用愈发举足轻重，而振奋人心的 是，意大利国内对高品质文具的需求 非但没有每况愈下，反而蒸蒸日上。那 些曾经为文学精英和贵族冒险家提供 优等文具的公司在保持优秀传统的同 时，也为现代顾客推出了众多新的产 品。正如Zamboni所说的那样， “手工 雕刻可以追溯到数千年前，但毫无疑 问，如今我们已经融入了新的技术。 即便如此，雕刻大师的手艺还是和以 前一样精湛。”

fabriano.com, ilpapirofrenze.it, pineider.com

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78: Man On A Mission 肩负使命的男人 设计大师乔治·阿玛尼（Giorgio Armani）庆祝同名时装品牌成立40 周年之际，亦在展望未来。Hannah Lewis报道

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

今年早些时候，从好莱坞巨星到政要 名流等500名贵宾的环绕下，乔治·阿 玛尼用一场本年度最时髦的派对开启 了其标志性时装品牌的40周年庆祝盛 典。当晚，为配合2015年米兰世界博 览会的举行，Armani揭幕了一个全 新的展厅Armani/Silos，打造了一场 盛大的时装表演，并借此回顾了一部 分他最伟大的作品，最后在其夜总会 Armani Privé里以鸡尾酒会为这个夜 晚画上了圆满句号。 这场纪念性的时装秀引领宾客 们回溯了过去的四十年，呈现了从 Giorgio Armani Privé服装系列诞 生之初以来的品牌精华。表演共囊括 了160套装扮，无愧为一场令人叹为观 止的回顾展，演绎了魅力、多样性以及 清晰醒目的色彩，适时地向人们证实 了Armani其实并非像普遍认为的那

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样单单钟情于灰褐色。从柔和的肉色 分层纱裙到性感的鲜红色露肩礼服， 这场表演淋漓尽致地展示出这位设计 大师无穷无尽的创意和打造经典优美 服装的能力。 更令人惊叹的是，这场时装秀 仅仅呈现了Armani麾下系列的一部 分。Armani旗下共有八大品牌，所 涉产品从牛仔裤到家居用品，从童装 到女士夜礼服，可谓一应俱全。品牌 单在意大利即有49处零售点，其中包 括了Armani Casa家居旗舰店、一间 Armani咖啡馆和上文提到的Club Privé夜总会。 因此，可能您花上数日探索 Armani在过去40年当中的辉煌成 就，却连表面的一层都难以了解周详。 正如Armani本人所说， “我什么都做 过了。”了不起的是，他奉行着亲历亲 为的态度；从建筑结构的草图到面料 上的细枝末节，所有的一切Armani 都要亲自批准。 许多时尚评论家，以及Armani本 人，都将这位设计大师的高产归功于 他人生的“慢热”。现年81岁的Armani 直到40岁时才开始创立他的同名品 牌。即便如此，他已成功地将毕生之 力融入到了过去40年当中。Armani 品牌初创于1975年，第二年这位大师 的系列服装已经掀起了轩然大波，尤 其以完美满足现代女性需求的成衣作 品为甚。 Armani奠定了一个时代的时尚， 在其他人随着潮流变化而半道消亡之 际，Armani始终是从西装到晚礼服 无所不能的顶尖品牌。这位颇富远见 卓识的大师始终在思考着下一个季 度，他有着一种神秘的能力，总能打 造出既前卫新潮又不失经典风范的服 装。Armani的时尚是可留传一世、永 不过时的格调。 全新的Armani/Silos展厅与回 顾时装秀和盛大派对同时揭幕。该展 厅不仅陈列了600套标志性造型，还

139 展示了来自Armani档案馆的一系列 创作草图、工程图和相关材料。这可 不是普通的博物馆。Armani不囿于 当下，而是着眼于未来；每过六个月， 展厅就会进行一次变更。展厅所在建 筑原为一座粮仓，现经过巧妙翻修， 成功地在保留诸多原有特色的同时， 对某些部分做出了彻底变动——这亦 是 Armani致力于传统与现代并举的 一大例证。 在城市另一端，位于Montenapoleone大街的Armani旗舰店近 期刚刚翻修完毕。该店位于历史悠久 的建筑Palazzo Taverna之内，同样 融新旧于一体；店内布局还原了最初 的平面布置图，但每个房间都经过了 个性定制，大量采用大理石和缟玛瑙 等奢华材料。该店不仅云集了全城规 模最大的Armani产品系列，还为顾 客提供特别定制服务。米兰是旗舰 店所在地的不二之选；虽然Armani 生于皮亚琴察，他的品牌却是在米兰 创立的，自那之后他也一直在这里工 作、定居。 尽管已经有了令人赞叹的丰硕成 果，Armani的目光仍然坚定地望向 未来。目前，他正专注于一系列配饰， 包括多款手提包，旨在打造常规时尚 潮流之外的经典。Armani从不像许 多时装品牌一样依赖于配饰，但这位 大师一直心系顾客大众，深知手提包 大有可掘之处。 为配合周年庆典，品牌发布了Le Sac 11：这是一款经典的极简主义实 用手提包，有三种大小和一系列不同 材质与配色可选。 “11”指代的不仅是 Armani的出生日期，也是公司那具有 历史意义的总部地址。这款手提包虽 是对Armani传统的致意，却也和所有 Armani产品一样，是为今天和未来而 设计。这件永不过时的经典设计，以当 下为构思之本，为历久长存而打造，巧 妙地概括了Armani的品牌哲学。

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124: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多 家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球 蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税， 您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星 标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们 简单的退税过程：

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联 退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form）。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城 市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格 上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联退税点领 取您的退税款。 联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€154.94即可节约高达购买 价格15.5%的金额。请注意：最终退款 将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理 手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表 为单位收取现金退税手续费。 日本語翻訳

58: Enduring Style 長持ちするスタイル イタリアの服飾グループ、スローウェア はファーストファッションを拒み、革新 的で長持ちする生地を使っている。ジ ョッシュ・シムズがレポートする。

140 ファーストファッションは、最新 のスタイルを使い捨てしてもいいほど の安価で次々に回転させていくという ビジネスモデルだ。そうした立場から すれば、 「スローウェア」は恐ろしく古 風に聞こえる。服飾メーカーにはそん なに悠長に構えている余裕はない。だ が、このイタリアの服飾グループは、そ の名が示す通り、販売を伸ばすために スタイルをコロコロ変えるつもりは全く ない。 「スローウェアは妙な言葉です が、私たちの理念を一言で的確に表 現しています」というのは、同グループ の共同創業者ロベルト・コンパーニョ だ。彼の父親が設立した同族経営の 服飾企業インコテックスは1951年の 創業で、ベニスに本拠を置く。 「スロー フード運動がファーストフードに反対 しているように、当グループではファ ーストファッションに反対しています。 この考え方はほんの10 年前まではご く珍しく、業界人の多くに変人と思わ れましたが、今では広く理解されてい ます。」 他の製品について持続可能性と 一生もののデザインを求めるニッチ市 場に応えて、スローウェアでは服飾に も同じ基準を当てはめようとしている。 コンパーニョは食品について高まって いる起源への関心が服飾にも向けら れるようになると考えている。特に、主 としてインターネットのおかげでファッ ション消費者が製造やマージン、生産 品質について理解を深めるにつれ、衣 類の起源にも関心を寄せるようになる と信じているのだ。 そこで同社では、ちょっと変わっ た体制をとっている。インコテックスは そもそも軍用ユニフォームの生産から 始まり、その後ズボンを専門に作るよ うになったのだが、 「そのうち、ズボン に関してはこれ以上できることはない という段階に達したので、同じ理念を globalblue.com

他の商品にも適用し始めた」のだと、 コンパーニョはいう。そして精力的な 企業買収の結果、インコテックスはシ ャツメーカーのグランシャツ、アウター ウェアのモンテドーロ、ニットウェアの ザノーネなど知名度は低いが優秀な専 門企業を傘下におさめ、インコテック スの生地を基本とした新たな服飾品ラ イン「アルキヴィオ」を発売する。 これらのブランド（コンパーニョ いわく「スローなブランド」）は今も健 在で、卸売の他、拡大を続けるオッフ ィチーナ・スローウェアの店舗網を通 じても販売されている。オッフィチー ナ・スローウェアは最近ではパリ2号店 とパドヴァ店がオープンしており、今後 もニューヨーク店をはじめ多くの店舗 の開設が予定されている。 「スロー」ウ ェアでも、ビジネスは加速中だ。 同グループはデザインに対する考 え方も独特だ。季節ごとのコレクショ ン制作はしない。新製品は自社の判 断で「適宜」発売する。つまり、年商の 5 %を研究開発に注ぎ込む技術部門 が何か新しいものを創り出した時に出 す方式だ。ちなみに同社の開発実績 はなかなか大したものだ。例えば同社 独自開発の生地だが、 「チノリーノ」は コットンとリネンの混紡で、リネンの通 気性とコットンの柔らかさを兼ね備え る。 「インコチノ」は糸染めのギャバジ ンで、5年をかけて3ウェイ構造を開発 した。その他にも「フレックスウール」 、 「アイスコットン」、 「カシミアシェー ド」などがあるが、いずれも見かけによ らずハイテクな素材だ。 同社はまた、衣服染色技術のパ イオニアでもある。染めた生地で衣服 を作るのでなく、完成した衣服に色を のせる手法だ。同社は生産工程にもこ だわる。例えばグランシャツのシャツ はいずれも、生地を傷めずにくったりと した肌馴染みを実現するプロセスを用 いて三度洗いしている。

141 「何十年、何百年も昔の手法を 今も使っているイタリアの老舗企業の 話をよく聞きますが、うちは違います」 とコンパーニョはいう。 「革新を推し進 めて最高の製品を作るため、市場で最 も技術的に進んだ機械を使っている のです。フィット感とプロポーションを きちんと造れば、50年経っても着れ、 見た目も古さを感じさせない服にな る。これが私たちの考え方です。未来 志向のアプローチだと私は思っていま す。低質な製品や馬鹿高い値の製品 を作るのは、どうも今の時代にふさわ しいとは思えません。消費者はもっと パーソナルな姿勢で自分に合った製品 を見つけたいと思っています。景気後 退を経てブランドはそれほど気にしな くなり、革新的で良質な製品を手頃な 値で買いたいと願っているのです。」

それは店舗でのショッピング体 験にも言えることだ。スローウェアで は、 「バリュー・フォー・マネー」の企 業理念を強調するかのように、店舗イ ンテリアの予算を低く抑え、大理石や 高価なガラスは一切使っていない。コ ンパーニョがいうように、そうした高額 の建築資材は、見かけの立派さより実 質、つかの間の流行より長く愛用され る服を提唱するブランドにはふさわし くないだろう。 「近年の流行ファッショ ンは、文字通りといっていいほど品質 を顧みなくなりました。良いものを作 っても意味がない。流行が始まったと 思ったら、もう終わっているんですから ね。ですが、そうした考え方が今は変 わりつつあって、ブランドも変わってい かざるを得ないでしょう。」

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68: Paper Trail 紙の伝統を訪ねて イタリアの伝統的文房具メーカーは、 長年愛されてきた魅力を失うことなく 進化を遂げ、現代の需要に応えてい る。ヴェリティ・ホーガンが訪ねた。 歴代サヴォイ公からグランドツア ーでイタリアを訪れた若き貴族まで、 上質を知る目の肥えた人々は昔から、 イタリアの手作り紙を珍重してきた。 この国の文房具は今でも高い評判を 誇っている。その多くは伝統的な材料 を用いて、18世紀初頭からほとんど変 わらない技法で作られる。革表紙の 日記帳からパーソナライズされた型押 し入り便箋、蓋つきの収納ボックスま で幅広く揃った商品は、どれも最高の 品質だ。ヨーロッパ最古といわれる紙 製（羊皮紙でなく）の文書は、パレル モの公文書館に収蔵されている。アラ ビア語とギリシャ語で書かれたその文 書は、1109年に書かれたものだ。しか

142 し、イタリアの文房具メーカーが古代 の製紙手法を取り入れて紙を主力商 品へと変貌させ、紙生産で世に知られ るようになったのは13世紀になってか らというのが通説である。 由緒正しいといえば、1264 年創 業のファブリアーノの右に出るメーカ ーはおそらくないだろう。同社の社名 は、本拠とするマルケ州にある小さな 町ファブリアーノに由来する。この町 が製紙業の中心地として栄えたのは、 アラビアとの貿易ルートに特に強いつ ながりを持つ港町アンコーナが近いこ とが大きな理由だ。15世紀には、ここ で作られた高級アート紙をミケランジ ェロが使い、大そう気に入ったといわ れている。この町の工房では、透かし やゼラチンを使った紙表面の糊付け など、現代製紙業界では当たり前にな った技法が編み出された。 ファブリアーノ社はそうした職人 の工房から発展した会社だが、流行 に反応し消費者の需要の変化に合わ せてきた順応力のおかげで、今も健 在だ。品揃えは高級アート紙だけでな く、今や日常的なオフィス用品や画用 紙帳、美しく陳列された便箋セットま で幅広い。現在、同社では再生可能 エネルギーにも取り組んでおり、自家 水力発電を生産に広く利用している。

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一方、イル・パピロの品揃えは伝 統的な職人技に根差し、同社の18店 舗はいずれも、フィレンツェに出した第 一号店の優雅な雰囲気を反映した古 風なデザインになっている。商品はペ イズリープリントのノートや革綴じの 日記帳、美しい手作りのマーブル紙な ど。同社オーナーのフランチェスコ・ジ ャンニーニとジャンニ・パレンティはフ ィレンツェ生まれで、この都市の職人 コミュニティとは密接なつながりがあ る。そのおかげで、同社の製品は今で も昔からの魅力を保ち、一時的な流行 に左右されない時代を超えた品質を 誇っているのだ。 ピネイダーはイタリア最古の紙メ ーカーの一つで、フランチェスコ・ピネ イダーが1774年に一号店をオープンし て以来、その歴史にふさわしい目の肥 えた得意客に商品を提供してきた。 「 当社の文房具は独特で、比類ない紙 質と当社の熟練手彫り職人ならでは の印刷技術で世界的に知られていま す」と説明するのは、同社広報担当者 のリンダ・ザンボーニだ。 「当社の紙は 全て無塩素漂白紙で、インクも天然で す。また、伝統的なイタリアの職人技 が活きているため、手触りがよく、書き 心地も満点です。」 ピネイダーは240年以上も生き残

143 り、繁栄してきた。それは、最初に財 を築いた時と同じように、伝統的な生 産手法を守り通してきたからだ。と言 っても、近代的な技法を取り入れてい ないわけではない。ザンボーニいわく、 「もちろん、新しい技法や技術によっ て変わった工程もありますが、当社の コレクションの一部にある罫線の色付 けは昔ながらの手作業ですし、紙箱も 同様で自社で手作りしています。」 誂えの名刺からエレガントな型押 し文字や紋章の入った便箋まで、ピネ イダーは幅広い品揃えで昔から熱烈な ファンが多い。過去の愛好者にはバイ ロン卿、エリザベス・バレット・ブラウ ニングといった文学界の大物や、マレ ーネ・ディートリッヒ、エリザベス・テイ ラーといったハリウッドスターもいる。 「今も世界一流の粋人にご愛顧いた だいています。当社のイタリア製文房 具ならではの品質をわかって下さる皆 様に、本当に感謝しています。」 現在、同社では特別な用途のた めに美しく手作りした品（筆記体の文 字を手彫りし型押しした紙、色罫を印 刷したモダンな四角形のカードや封 筒）から、天然顔料で罫線を手書きし た便箋と揃いの手作り薄葉紙の裏地 が付いた封筒が特徴のカプリコレク ションまで、幅広い商品を提供してい る。ピネイダーは常に進化している。ザ ンボーニが、これまで秘密だった新情 報を教えてくれた。同社が新しい型押 し技法をまもなく開始するというのだ。 「カリグラフィーを手彫りした型で、エ ンボス印刷したのと同じ効果がある」 という。 通信が電子媒体で行われること が増えている中で、イタリアの高品質 文房具の需要が減るどころか増えてい るのは嬉しい限りだ。かつて文豪や貴 族冒険家の愛用品を作ったこれらの 会社は、それぞれルーツを大事にしつ つ開発に励み、現代人にとっても魅力

的な商品を生み出してきた。ザンボー ニによれば、 「手彫り型押しの歴史は 何世紀も前に遡りますが、もちろん今 では新しい技術が関わってきていま す。それでも、熟練手彫り職人の精密 さは昔と変わりません。」

fabriano.com、ilpapirofirenze.it、 pineider.com 78: Man On A Mission 使命を負う男 自らの名を冠したファッションハウス が創立40周年を迎えてもなお、ジョル ジオ・アルマーニの目は未来に向いて いる。ハンナ・ルイスがレポートする。 この春、ジョルジオ・アルマーニ は、自身のアイコニックなファッション ハウスの創立40周年祝賀第一弾とし て、ハリウッドスターから政界の大物 まで500人のゲストを招き、とびきりス タイリッシュなパーティを開いた。ま た、2015年ミラノ国際博覧会の開始と タイミングを合わせて新しい展示スペ ース「アルマーニ・シーロス」をお披露 目し、自身の代表作を選りすぐった豪 華なファッションショーを開催。さら に、自分のナイトクラブ「アルマーニ・ プリヴェ」でのカクテルパーティでその 夜を締めくくった。 祝賀ファッションショーでは40年 の歴史を遡り、ジョルジオ・アルマー ニ「プリヴェ」クチュールラインの誕生 当初からの見どころ作品を、ゲストに 披露した。合計160のルックスを一挙 に見せた感動の回顧ショーは魅力とバ ラエティに富み、特に色彩づかいは、 アルマーニはやたらと「グレージュ」を 使うという評判のいわれのなさをタイ ムリーに印象づけた。ソフトなヌードカ ラーのチュールのレイヤードスカート から、大胆な緋色のストラップレスイ ブニングドレスまで、このデザイナーの

PHOTO: GIONATA XERRA

144

終わりなきクリエイティビティと時代を 超越した美しい服を作る能力に敬意 を表するショーだった。 ただし、ここで披露されたのはア ルマーニのポートフォリオのほんの一 部に過ぎないのだから凄い。アルマー ニの傘下には８つのブランドがあり、 ジーンズからインテリア用品、ベビー 服から舞踏会用ドレスまで、ありとあ らゆるものを作っている。同ブランド は、イタリア国内だけでも旗艦店アル マーニ・カサ、アルマーニ・カフェ、前 述のクラブ・プリヴェを含め49の小売 スペースを擁する。 そんなアルマーニだから、過去40 年の業績を何日もかけて振り返ったと しても、表面をなぞることにもならな い。本人が言うように、アルマーニは「 あらゆることをやってきた」。彼のアプ ローチは驚くほど現場主義で、建築の スケッチから細かな生地の選択まで 全ての承認を自ら行っている。 多くのファッション評論家が指摘 し、自身も認めるように、多作はデザ イナーとしての出発が遅かったからだ という。現在81歳になるアルマーニが 自身の名を冠したレーベルを創設した のは、40歳になってからだ。そんな遅 いスタートにもかかわらず、それからの 40 年で少なくとも人の一生分の仕事 globalblue.com

を成し遂げてきた。アルマーニレーベ ルの創設は1975年だが、早くもその翌 年にはコレクションが話題となり、特 に既製服は現代女性のニーズにぴっ たり合っていると評判を呼んだ。 こうしてこの時代のルックスを代 表するレーベルとなったアルマーニ は、その後トレンドが変化して他のレ ーベルが落伍していく中で、スーツか らイブニングウェアまで何でもござれ の頼れるブランドであり続ける。未来 志向のアルマーニは常に次のシーズン を考え、トレンディでありつつ時代を 超 越した服を創作するという不思議 な能力を備えている。アルマーニのフ ァッションは、一生もののファッショ ンだ。 回顧ショーやパーティと同時に開 場した「アルマーニ・シーロス」では、 アルマーニのこれまでの作品から代 表作 600点とスケッチ、図面、素材を 集めた展示会を開催している。ただ、 この新しい展示スペースは博物館で はない。アルマーニは立ち止まる人で はなく、いつも未来を考えている。ここ の展示も6か月ごとに様変わりする。ア ルマーニ・シーロスは、穀倉だった建 物を元々の特徴を多々残して面影を 大事にしつつ、その他は大々的に変え る形で改装したもの。伝統と現代性を

145 兼ね備えることにこだわるアルマーニ らしい。 同じ市内でもシーロスとは反対 側に位置する旗艦店「アルマーニ・モ ンテナポレオーネ」も、最近改装され た。歴史香るパラッツォ・タヴェルナ に面するこの店舗も、新旧が入り混じ っている。レイアウトを元の間取り図 に戻しつつ、各部屋は大理石やオニキ スといった高級素材を一貫して使いカ スタマイズしている。同店はミラノ最大 のアルマーニ商品コレクションを揃え る他、専門のメイド・トゥ・メジャーサ ービスも行っている。旗艦店を構える 場所としてミラノを選んだのは、ごく自 然ななりゆきだった。アルマーニはピ アチェンツァの生まれだが、レーベル の立ち上げはミラノで、以来彼はこの 都市で暮らし、働いてきたのだから。 既に大いなるレガシーを遺してい るアルマーニだが、その目は今もしっ かりと未来に据えられている。現在注 力しているのはハンドバッグなど一連 のアクセサリーで、通常のファッション スケジュールにとらわれないものをデ ザインしている。アルマーニは、多くの ファッションハウスのようにアクセサリ ーに頼ることは決してしない。彼のバ ッグが注目を集めるのは、自分のオー ディエンスを常に意識しているからに 他ならない。 「ル サック オンズ（Le Sac 11 ）」は40周年とタイミングを合わせて 発売された。ミニマリスティックで古 典的なデザインの実 用的なトップハ ンドルバッグで、3 サイズがあり、様 々な素材と色から選べるようになっ ている。 「11」はアルマーニの誕生日 であるだけでなく、彼の会社が 本社 を置く歴史的建物の番地でもある。 このように伝統の重みを認 識しては いるが、このバッグを含めてアルマ ーニの製品は全て、現在と未来を念 頭にデザインされている。今のため

に考案し将来まで長持ちするように 創られるタイムレスなデザイン。要は それ が アルマーニの 理 念なのだ。

armani.com

124: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッ ピング制度をご利用いただきますと、 世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある 27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物 がお得になります。 年間 2600万人が楽しまれている グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピン グを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手 続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加 盟店を探します。星が見当たらなけれ ば、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」と お尋ねください。あとは、次のステップ を踏むだけです。 1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバ ル・ブルーの免税書類（タックスフリ ー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。 2.還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で 免税書類にスタンプを押してもらって から、グローバル・ブルーの還付事務 所で払い戻しを受けます。 お問い合わせ：

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.94以上のお買い物をすれば、購 入価格の最高15.5％の払い戻しが受 けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、 付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手 数料を差し引いた金額となりますの で、その旨ご了承ください。一部の空 港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望 の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書 類ごとに課されます。

146 | P RO D U C T S

SOUVENIR

THE ART OF DRESSING This printed scarf from Salvatore Ferragamo wouldn’t look out of place in an art gallery, thanks to its richly detailed design featuring exotic animals and birds, ornate tiled pavilions and colourful blooms. Made entirely in Italy from 100% silk, the Moroccan comes in four equally covetable colourways – black, red, plum or china blue – any one of which Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 124

is sure to add a dash of artistic fair to a winter outft. Founded in Florence in 1927, Salvatore Ferragamo was originally known for its luxury footwear, but now creates menswear, womenswear and accessories to the same impeccable standards. th Salvatore Ferragamo Moroccan silk scarf, €295, Salvatore Ferragamo, Via de’ Tornabuoni 4R-14R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 292123, ferragamo.com for map go to page 116

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