SHOP Italy Style AW19

ITALY | 意大利 | ИТАЛИЯ | イタリア

ITALY Style Edition Autumn/Winter 2019/20

EXPLORE ITALY: discover the best of this vibrant country with our insiders’ guide

EDITOR’S LETTER Essential Info For the very latest information, scan the QR code on this page to head straight to our website, globalblue.com, and find everything you need to navigate the best shopping destinations on earth.

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this sophisticated European country. Italy has much to offer, as you’ll discover in our guide on page 53. Don’t miss our feature on the luxury brands reviving the logomania trend (page 36) and our profile of the innovative secondary lines from three high-fashion labels (page 42). In this issue we also reveal how a new generation of emerging Italian designers are injecting a sense of fun into the fashion industry (page 48). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. This year we proudly celebrate a decade of publishing guides to the most prestigious destinations across the globe. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top brands you’ll find in Italy. @环球蓝联-Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 @globalblue

SALLY McILHONE

@GlobalBlue

ILLUSTRATION: PETRA ERIKSSON

Welcome to Italy

For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the SHOP TAX FREE app – calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.

CONTRIBUTORS

GINGER ROSE CLARK Ginger Rose Clark, SHOP’s senior news editor, holds an MA in fashion journalism from the London College of Fashion. Before joining SHOP, Ginger worked as a fashion stylist and also wrote for a number of publications.

ALEX ASFOUR Alex Asfour has created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Italy Style using his trademark graphic technique. The image shows four tailor’s dummies that depict Italy’s most famous fashion cities – Milan, Rome, Florence and Venice. His other clients include Airbnb, Disney and the Washington Post. Discover SHOP Italy Style and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue

ILLUSTRATION: ALEX ASFOUR

REBECCA RHYS-EVANS SHOP’s features editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans has a degree in American literature, history and cultures from the University of Liverpool and formerly ran the online team at Flannels.com. She has previously written for several British and international fashion brands and magazines.

SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L

PUBLISHING

Editor Sally McIlhone

Publisher James Morris

Cover illustrator Alex Asfour Contributor Ruby Abbiss Production editor Katie Muxworthy

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Assistant Chinese online editor Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi

Senior fashion editor Lucinda Turner

Russian editor Gary Ramazanov

Senior news editor Ginger Rose Clark

Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto

Features editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans

Print Dane Consultancy

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Myers, Harriet O’Brien

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designers Aaron Carline, Peter Darkin, Kiranjeet Kaur Midweight designer Nicole Williams Junior designers Tatjiana Antoniou, Thanuja Tharmaseelan

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Jo Walker Assistant picture editor Mónica R Goya Digital editor Kirsty Welsh Deputy digital editor Emily Scrivener Digital production editor Marina Nelson

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistants Chris Bigg, Joanna Dodge Digital analyst Yunrong Kang Midlevel web developer Kurtis Justin Associate digital product manager Aarti Patel Digital production assistant Linda Hau Founding editor Emma Cheevers

G LO B A L B L U E I TA LY Managing director Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales manager Denise Bolandrina Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Marketing executive Laura Gallo Partner relationship manager Antonella Bertossi Head of key accounts Stefano Cardinale Head of accounts Marco Cavalli Key account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Ilaria Sassarini, Marco Savino, Andrea Zavattarelli Account managers Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Elisa Caporaso, Laura Durante, Giorgia Faro, Gabriele Giuntini, Davide Grechi, Diana Martin, Marta Miserendino, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Vincenzo Saponara, Giordano Senzacqua, Laura Vitale Sellout team Giulia Belligrandi, Erika Bordoni, Filippo John Ciccarelli, Andrea Di Comite, Livia Gargelli, Sara Villoresi Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, 21013 Gallarate, Varese, Italy

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2019 Global Blue

CONTENTS

CHECK OUT 12

SHOP selects a standout piece from Italy this season

PRODUCTS 14 Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

INVESTMENT PIECE 24 A future classic to buy this season: Salvatore Ferragamo’s versatile Boxyz bag

SHOP WINDOW 26 Explore the new CP Company store in Milan

NEWS 28

FEATURE 42 DYNAMIC DUOS Pioneering high-fashion brands are staying fresh and relevant by introducing adventurous, innovative secondary lines. Ginger Rose Clark profiles three leading examples

FEATURE 48 BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS A new generation of Italian designers are ripping up the rule book when it comes to classic style, and injecting a sense of fun back into the industry, as Lucinda Turner discovers

GUIDE 53

Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Rome, Milan, Venice and Florence

IN STORE... 34

HOW TO SHOP TAX FREE 76

… with Jacopo de Nobili, owner of Macri, who gives us a tour of the exclusive multibrand boutique

FEATURE 36 MONOGRAM MANIA Luxury brands are turning back to the logomania of past decades – and lending a welcome touch of irony and humour to this season’s looks, writes Rebecca Rhys-Evans

The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS 79 中文翻译 84 Русский Перевод 91 日本語翻訳 SOUVENIR 98

The essential item to bring home

#glamourizing

liujo.com

CH ECK O U T

Made for Walking

Milanese footwear brand Paris Texas has been accumulating a growing fan base since its launch in 2015, and its designs have been spotted on celebrities such as Kendall Jenner, Emily Ratajkowski and Gigi Hadid. Its versatile kneehigh leather boots are available in a vibrant range of eye-catching designs – including snakeskin and crocodile effect – and can be paired with either a casual or Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

an elegant evening look. The pictured straight-leg silver boots are perfect for making a statement this autumn/winter and are also available in black, brown and deep red. lt Paris Texas boots, €540, Gio Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3186, paristexas.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 66

14 | P R O D U C T S

COOL BLUES

For the perfect weekend style, team an on-trend bomber jacket with dark denim

HACKETT BAG, €700, RINASCENTE, PIAZZA DEL DUOMO, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 88521, HACKETT.COM

GANT JEANS, €112, GANT, VIA ALESSANDRO MANZONI 26, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 8708 4267, GANT.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

FRATELLI ROSSETTI TRAINERS, €350, FRATELLI ROSSETTI, VIA DEL BABUINO 59A, 00187 ROME, +39 06 3600 3957, FRATELLIROSSETTI.COM

PHOTOS: (TROUSERS) ANDREW SUTTON; (TRAINERS) PAOLO MARCHESI

COACH JACKET, €950, COACH, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 19, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7600 3522, COACH.COM

TAG HEUER WATCH, €3,600, TAG HEUER, CALLE SECONDA DELL’ASCENSION, SAN MARCO 1298, 30124 VENICE, +39 041 521 1401, TAGHEUER.COM

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PRADA BAG, €1,700, PRADA, VIA DEI CONDOTTI 92, 00187 ROME, +39 06 679 0897, PRADA.COM

BORSALINO HAT, €240, BORSALINO, VIA SANT’ANDREA 5, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 878910, BORSALINO.COM

CHECKMATE

A classic coat in a heritage fabric will win you serious style points for autumn/winter 2019/20

TWINSET COAT, €498, TWINSET, VIA PORTA ROSSA 34, 50123 FLORENCE, +39 055 280085, TWINSET.COM

CASADEI BOOTS, €750, CASADEI, VIA SANT’ANDREA 1, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7631 8293, CASADEI.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

PHOTOS: (COAT) ALESSANDRO RUSSO; (BOOTS) MARCO LAMBRI

IL BISONTE GLOVES, €95, IL BISONTE, VIA BORGOGNONA 13, 00187 ROME, +39 06 6880 8097, ILBISONTE.COM

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CRÈME CARAMEL Mix and match shades of brown in leather, suede and corduroy for a sophisticated look this season

THE BRIDGE BACKPACK, €490, THE BRIDGE, CALLE FREZZARIA, SAN MARCO 1503, 30124 VENICE, +39 041 822 7096, THEBRIDGE.IT

SANDRO JUMPER, €195, SANDRO, VIA FRATTINA 50, 00187 ROME, +39 06 992 2658, SANDRO-PARIS.COM

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI BELT, €490, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 27C, 20212 MILAN, +39 02 7601 5982, BRUNELLOCUCINELLI.COM

COS TROUSERS, €79, COS, VIA DELLA SPADA 1, 50123 FLORENCE, +39 06 3283 2704, COSSTORES.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

SANTONI BOOTS, €1,150, SANTONI, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 6, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7628 0508, SANTONISHOES.COM

Ponte Vecchio 56r, Firenze - www.alcozer.it

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ERMANNO SCERVINO EARRINGS, €360, ERMANNO SCERVINO, CALLE VALLARESSO, SAN MARCO 1314, 30124 VENICE, +39 041 241 1602, ERMANNOSCERVINO.COM

ACNE STUDIOS SHIRT, €270, ACNE STUDIOS, PIAZZA DEL CARMINE 6, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 8410 2383, ACNESTUDIOS.COM

NEW CLASSICS

ELENA GHISELLINI BAG, €895, RINASCENTE, PIAZZA DEL DUOMO, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 88521, ELENAGHISELLINI.COM MAJE JEANS, €185, MAJE, VIA DEL BABUINO 167, 00187 ROME, +39 06 322 3317, MAJE.COM

AQUAZZURA SHOES, €675, AQUAZZURA, LUNGARNO CORSINI 42, 50123 FLORENCE, +39 055 291242, AQUAZZURA.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

PHOTOS: (BAG) FRANCISCO MONTOYA; (SHOES) MARCO LAMBRI

Upgrade your new-season denim with subtle embellishments and pearl-adorned accessories

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SUBTLE STYLE Pair neutral knitwear with stylish leather accessories for a chic daytime look this winter

PANDORA EARRINGS, €129, PANDORA, VIA POR SANTA MARIA 15, 50122 FLORENCE, +39 055 274 1096, PANDORA.NET

BALLY BAG, €995, BALLY, MERCERIA DEL CAPITELLO, SAN MARCO 4919-4921, 30124 VENICE, +39 041 528 5839, BALLY.COM

PATRIZIA PEPE SKIRT, €188, PATRIZIA PEPE, VIA FRATTINA 44, 00187 ROME, +39 06 678 1851, PATRIZIAPEPE.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

LONGCHAMP BOOTS, €890, LONGCHAMP, VIA DELLA SPIGA 6, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 8493 2705, LONGCHAMP.COM

PHOTOS: (BAG) BALLY; (SKIRT) TOM BEUERS; (JUMPER) TOMMASO VECCHI

PINKO JUMPER, €250, PINKO, VIA DEL BABUINO 92A/B, 00187 ROME, +39 06 9762 9569, PINKO.COM

23 | P R O D U C T S

WALK ON THE WILD SIDE A leopard-print dress is a wardrobe classic. Dress yours up with timeless black and gold accessories

MANGO EARRINGS, €29.99, MANGO, VIA DEI CALZAIUOLI 56R, 50122 FLORENCE, +39 055 277 6220, MANGO.COM

ESCADA DRESS, €1,199, ESCADA, PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 7-8, 00187 ROME, +39 06 678 6995, ESCADA.COM

ALBERTA FERRETTI SHOES, €490, ALBERTA FERRETTI, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 18, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7600 3095, ALBERTAFERRETTI.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

MIU MIU BAG, €1,500, MIU MIU, SALIZADA SAN MOISÈ, SAN MARCO 1471, 30124 VENICE, +39 041 810 6066, MIUMIU.COM

PHOTOS: (EARRINGS) STARP ESTUDI; (SHOES) VINCENZO PATRUNO

MARNI BRACELET, €150, MARNI, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 12, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7631 7327, MARNI.COM

24 | F E AT U R E S

Investment Piece

S H O P | 25

An elegant, boxy handbag is a must-have for this season and beyond. Timeless and feminine, the versatile Boxyz bag from Salvatore Ferragamo is one style worth making room for in your suitcase, according to Lucinda Turner

PHOTOS: (BOTH LEFT) SHINI PARK

ounded in Florence in 1927, Salvatore Ferragamo has long been associated with some of the most exquisite leather goods in Italy. Originally a footwear label, the brand expanded its offering to include handbags in the 1960s and has been a firm favourite with the Italian fashion crowd ever since. The brand has produced many celebrated designs, and its latest creation, the second bag to be launched under new creative director Paul Andrew, might be its best yet. The Boxyz style draws on Salvatore Ferragamo’s history to create a bag that’s perfect for the 21st century, and the name refers to three generations of Ferragamo customers (X, Y and Z). ‘When I set out to create a bag worthy of carrying the most essential and cherished items in a modern woman’s life, I started by asking the many important women in my life what they care about most in a bag,’ Andrew says. While he received many different responses, the designer narrowed

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his ideas down to privacy, convenience, strength, beauty and boldness. ‘The Boxyz is designed to answer these needs down to the last letter,’ explains Andrew. ‘It is a portable and precious safe space, crafted with Ferragamo’s heritage expertise.’ Elegant and feminine, the versatile bag has a removable shoulder strap and is available in three different sizes, 10 colours and four materials. The practical and secure design also features the brand’s signature Gancini clasp fastening from the 1970s and a lock and key for added privacy. From classic black to flamboyant absinthe green, there is a style for every Salvatore Ferragamo customer, and the Boxyz bag is certain to find a place in your wardrobe for years to come. Salvatore Ferragamo Boxyz bag, from €1,390, Salvatore Ferragamo, Via de’ Tornabuoni 4R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 292123, ferragamo.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

26 | N E W S

SHOP WINDOW

CP Company’s exciting new store in Milan is the first to display the brand’s latest retail concept, which sets out to create an immersive environment. Its stripped-back design focuses attention on the clothing and projects on display, while engineered soundproofing enhances the exclusive, insular feel of the space. Highlights include the Bespoke Colour project, which offers customisation options for Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

key pieces such as the Quartz Goggle jacket. Visitors can choose from any Pantone hue or bring in an example of their ideal shade for colour matching. This must-visit store is testimony to the brand’s forward-thinking attitude. grc CP Company, Corso Garibaldi 95, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4770 0281, cpcompany.com

PHOTO: ADRIANO BIONDO

TRUE COLOURS

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28 | N E W S

TOP TOURS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

MODERN CLASSIC Family-run Italian brand Alessi creates design-focused homeware, including silverware and kitchen accessories. To celebrate the 30th anniversary of its famous Girotondo collection, Alessi is rereleasing a range of limited-edition kitchenware pieces. First designed in 1989 by Stefano Giovannoni and Guido Venturini – the duo behind design studio King-Kong – Girotondo quickly became one of Alessi’s most celebrated collections. The innovative pieces are modern classics and feature the famous trademark doll motifs. Highlights include a circular basket, available in two sizes, a fruit bowl and round tray. rre Rinascente, Via del Tritone/ Via dei Due Macelli, 00187 Rome, +39 34 5585 9558, alessi.com

PHOTOS: (BOTTOM) ANDREA OFFREDI; (OPPOSITE TOP) STEPHANE MURATET

Enhance your trip to Milan with city tour specialist Zani Viaggi, which offers coach trips that take in the best of Milan’s culture, art and fashion, as well as shopping tours to some of Italy’s finest outlets. Services run from the city centre to shopping villages which showcase designer brands at discount prices. Destinations include Serravalle Designer Outlet, the largest outlet in Europe; Il Centro; Franciacorta Outlet Village; Scalo Milano; and Vicolungo The Style Outlets. Zani Viaggi can also take you across the border into Switzerland, to the FoxTown stores. Wherever you decide to go, Zani Viaggi will ensure you travel in style. sm Zani Viaggi, Milan Visitor Center, Largo Cairoli 18 (city centre) and Milano Centrale station, Ground Level, 20100 Milan, +39 02 867131, zaniviaggi.com

S H O P | 29

VENETIAN STYLE

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

Italian fashion brand Sisley has opened a boutique in Venice, just moments away from the Rialto bridge. Classic Venetian style is showcased in this sophisticated space, and lavish details such as delabrè-effect walls, orange marble, terrazzo flooring and gold fixtures provide an opulent backdrop for the fashionforward, fun clothing and accessories on offer for men, women and children. Look out for the brand’s extensive denim collection, seasonal coats and jackets, cosy knitwear and footwear this season. rre Sisley, Campo San Bortolomio, San Marco 5372, 30124 Venice, +39 041 520 4295, sisley.com

GRAND DESIGNS When you’re exploring Florence’s beautiful cobbled streets, be sure to visit the magnificent, newly renovated Louis Vuitton boutique on Piazza degli Strozzi. Located in a stunning 19th century building, the store encompasses two floors and gives customers a truly unique shopping experience, with a plethora of artworks, vintage furniture pieces by Italian designers and historical Louis Vuitton archival objects on display. In this inspiring space, visitors can shop the brand’s full collections, including the latest ready-to-wear, watches, fragrances and footwear, as well as some of the world’s most famous leather accessories. rre Louis Vuitton, Piazza degli Strozzi 1, 50123 Florence, +39 055 266981, louisvuitton.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

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CREATIVE COLLABORATION Kartell celebrates its 70th anniversary in 2019. At the forefront of Italian design, the brand has collaborated with some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading designers over the past seven decades to create innovative products. Continuing this focus, Kartell has partnered with Fabio Novembre on the new Trullo collection of containers with conical lids, inspired by the iconic buildings of Alberobello. The Trullo designs are available in four colourways. grc Kartell, Via Filippo Turati 5/ Via Carlo Porta, 20121 Milan, +39 02 659 7916, kartell.com

This season Blumarine presents the new Be Blumarine label, headed up by Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez, the design duo behind Au Jour Le Jour. With a romantic aesthetic and bohemian influences, the collection draws on the 1970s and 80s. Florals, leopard-print and tartan feature on dresses, knits and coats, while sequins add pizzazz to skirts and tops. grc Blumarine, Via Borgognona 31, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 0951, blumarine.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 55 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

PHOTO: (LEFT) SIMONA PESARINI

NEW DIRECTION

S H O P | 31

PURPOSEFUL PIECES Woolrich has unveiled a new logo based on the brand’s Buffalo Check pattern for autumn/winter 2019/20, which features across clothing and footwear. The collection looks to Woolrich’s rich heritage while continuing the brand’s mission to create ‘garments with a purpose’. Pieces have a performance bias and an emphasis on technical fabrics, with PrimaLoft used for its superb insulation properties in packable clothing tailored to cold weather, for example. The brand continues to innovate while staying true to its DNA, featuring its famous check pattern on overshirts and reinventing the parka for the new season. grc Woolrich, Corso Venezia 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8688 7600, woolrich.eu FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 61

ONE TO WATCH KHRISJOY

Launched last year, new fashion label Khrisjoy celebrates the puffer jacket. Founded by Marzia Bellotti, a notable figure in the fashion industry, Khrisjoy’s Made in Italy, down-filled puffer jackets combine technical expertise with a dose of fun. The jackets come in a wide range of colours and the autumn/winter 2019/20 offering for women includes a choice of lengths, from cropped to knee-length, as well a wide range of finishes such as paisley prints and leather fringing. This season also sees the introduction of men’s styles, which come in a range of metallic hues and leopard prints. grc Luisa Via Roma, Via Roma 19R-21R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 906 4116, khrisjoy.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 73

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SEASONAL SHADES Venetian brand Barena Venezia has a classic, timeless aesthetic. For autumn/ winter 2019/20, the label references Venetian workwear and military dress with expertly crafted unlined blazers, chunky knits and voluminous overcoats. The brand is anchored in the landscape of the Veneto region, and this season’s colour scheme echoes Venice’s salt marshes in the winter, with shades that are reminiscent of sand, rust, fog and inky skies. grc Barena Venezia, Calle San Paterniàn, San Marco 4260B, 30124 Venice, +39 041 523 8457, barenavenezia.com

HEART OF GLASS New for autumn/winter 2019/20, Weekend Max Mara has launched Chaotic Elegance, a new signature collection inspired by the glass sculptures of Japanese artist Ritsue Mishima. The range features strong, unique silhouettes, vibrant colours and bold cuts. The artist’s lightweight and colourless objects are reflected in this series by a mix of yarn-dyed fabrics and juxtaposing textures, including chiffon and sequins, all with a sartorial spin. Ready-towear pieces are complemented by footwear (such as the pictured blazer, €269, and shoes, €199) as well as accessories, and a new patchwork version of the classic Pasticcino bag is also being released. rre Weekend Max Mara, Via Cola di Rienzo 265B, 00192 Rome, +39 06 320 0361, weekendmaxmara.com Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

34 | N E W S

IN STORE: MACRI Those searching for true Italian craftsmanship may feel overwhelmed by the wealth of labels on offer in the country. Luckily for visitors to Venice, multibrand store Macri carries a refined edit of Italy’s leading brands. Here, owner Jacopo de Nobili reveals the ethos behind this exclusive boutique, as Lucinda Turner reports

‘We carry almost exclusively Made In Italy brands, and we are pretty proud of this,’ says Macri owner Jacopo de Nobili. ‘In our shop you can find shoes from Santoni, Hogan and Casadei, and jackets from Gimo’s and Diego M, frequently accompanied by a number of other brands, depending on the season. Almost all the pieces are made in Italy, with just a few exceptions of really exclusive products like Tissa Fontaneda bags.’ Macri’s exquisitely edited range of high-end Italian brands Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

sets it apart from other multibrand boutiques. ‘We are different from our competitors in our unique selection of products from multiple brands, some of which can be found only here in our shop and nowhere else in Venice – or even in Italy.’ And this selection keeps customers coming back to the store, time and time again. De Nobili explains that Macri caters to everyone ‘from the elegant businessman to the trendy sportswoman, anyone who’s looking for a high-quality pair of

shoes – classic or sneakers – or a leather jacket, bag or accessory. We have a very wide customer base thanks to the variety and the selection of products. ‘We are mostly a footwear shop, and roughly 80% of our exposition is made up of shoes. A number of leather jackets for men and women can always be found, and for our more discerning customers we also have leather belts, to complete a look with a finely made leather shoe, or fur coats made exclusively for us in Varese.’ The boutique’s customers are at the heart of everything Macri does. ‘We always go a step further to accommodate any need the customer may have,’ de Nobili says. ‘We accept almost any kind of payment, we have the best tax refund ratio possible for the customer, and we can ship the goods you buy almost anywhere you’d like.’ De Nobili and his team are increasingly aware of their international audience and are taking steps to become a onestop shop for visitors to Venice searching for their favourite Italian brands. ‘As a multibrand shop, we aim to be a landmark for the foreign visitor who looks for the real Made in Italy quality. We are working towards a larger selection of brands to accommodate any request we may receive.’ globalblue.com

The store has been open in its current location since 2011, but the name and the family behind it have been in business in Venice for almost 45 years. This industry experience has undoubtedly contributed to the boutique’s success and its forward momentum. ‘The store itself has been located in three other buildings before this one. We are always looking for the best place possible to offer our finest selection of goods,’ de Nobili says. And it seems as though the store has finally found its ideal location. ‘The Macri boutique in Venice is located in a very central position, just a few steps away from Piazza San Marco and near the most important shopping road in Venice,’ he notes. ‘We are cheek to cheek with the biggest brands in the world.’ Stocking some of the biggest brands in the world itself, Macri is clearly in good company. ‘The shop is filled with the best quality footwear and jackets you can find, and the customer should feel like they are finding a product they will really love,’ says de Nobili. With Macri’s world-class selection of exclusive Italian brands, visitors will certainly be spoiled for choice. Macri, Calle Frezzeria, San Marco 1583, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 8997, calzaturemacri.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 67

MONOGRAM MANIA

PHOTO: GETTY

Luxury brands are turning back to the logomania of past decades – and lending a welcome touch of irony and humour to this season’s looks, writes Rebecca Rhys-Evans

Above: Fendi street style, autum/winter 2019/20

ogos are the enduring face of a brand and, it could be argued, encapsulate a label’s identity even more than the clothing itself. The use of logo motifs and monogramming enjoyed almost unprecedented popularity among luxury designers for autumn/winter 2019/20, and was one of the biggest trends to grace the catwalks of Milan Fashion Week this season. Christian Beck, creative director at Aigner, believes that several brands are also adopting a less fixed approach, offering ‘logos that are played with and visualised 79 91

differently from season to season.’ Rooted in the 1980s aesthetic of excess, logomania is thought to have come to the fore after the US economic boom of the 90s, when brands such as Versace, Moschino, Louis Vuitton and Dior became synonymous with monogramadorned ‘It’ bags, T-shirts, sweaters and flamboyant gold jewellery. Customers chose clothing emblazoned with motifs and logos to denote status and wealth, which also gave brands a unique opportunity to increase their visibility and promote themselves globally. Two decades and a global recession later, minimalism had become key. Understated sartorial dressing ruled, with the likes of Phoebe Philo’s normcore aesthetic at Celine and a sense of style that was functional, chic and impactful – think exaggerated silhouettes and texture – as opposed to name-dropping sweaters. But just when we thought fashion was logoed out, that this was a thing of the past, brands began to reimagine the trend. In 2016 Vetements made the anti-fashion move of the century with a DHL-logo T-shirt. By showcasing another company’s logo, the label not only created a conversation about the nature of branding but also paved the way Above (from left): Fendi; Gucci, both autumn/ winter 2019/20

PHOTOS; (LEFT) GORUNWAY.COM; (RIGHT) V.HEREDIA

38 | F E AT U R E S

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for streetwear brands such as Supreme and Palace to make it in the luxury market with simple logo-adorned garments. Gucci has extended its use of monograms beyond ‘It’ bags such as the Dionysus. This season the iconic GG features in glitter-thread stitching on socks, in wool on tweed blazers and along the side of sneakers. Creative director Alessandro Michele has shown a tongue-in-cheek irreverence for luxury fashion, adding doodle-style touches to the brand’s logo and even giving garments a bootleg Above: Vetements’ 2016 DHL-logo T-shirt

appearance. ‘I couldn’t wait to get my hands on the logo, it’s like drawing on the Mona Lisa. The double G is like a hieroglyph that everyone knows, and I use it as the cherry on top of my designs,’ he says. Michele’s approach introduced the idea of modern-day monogramming as a playful parody. He kickstarted a new wave of logomania in luxury fashion and a trend for authentic items with a merchandise-style, ‘genuine fake’ appearance. A roster of labels are now reimagining their branding. In the late Karl Lagerfeld’s last collection, Fendi reinvented its famous F to give it a sportier streetwear-inspired edge, and it shows two different sides for autumn/winter 2019/20. There is the chic palette of beige on 70s-inspired structured pinafores, pleated skirts, pussy-bow tops and stiff, starched collared shirts, with an occasional pop of colour on PVC leather. The logos shine through here with the traditional lady-like italicised double-F monogram used on opaque white tights and roll necks. But it’s accessories, menswear and the new FF capsule collection where we see Fendi’s streetwear side. The tan-brown monogram is emblazoned on everything from rain coats to bags, tracksuits, bucket hats and footwear. It pokes fun at the way the fashion landscape looked in the late 90s and early 2000s, with an ironic nod to the notion of tackiness surrounding the era. Under the new creative direction of Riccardo Tisci, Burberry has also made some controversial changes concerning its logo. Working with

famed graphic designer Peter Saville, Tisci delved into the house’s archive to create the new interlocking TB monogram, inspired by the initials of the brand’s founder, Thomas Burberry. The pair also worked on the logo, replacing the archaic Equestrian Knight symbol and Bodoni font, which the brand has used since 1901, with a bold sans-serif typeface to offer a more contemporary feel. German brand Aigner’s autumn/winter 2019/20 collection in Milan made a strong case for contemporary fashion logos and its approach challenged the traditional idea of the logo as untouchable. ‘Modern movements offer the Above (clockwise from left): Fendi; a handbag featuring Burberry’s new logo; Gucci, all autumn/winter 2019/20

PHOTOS: (LEFT AND BOTTOM RIGHT) GORUNWAY.COM

40 | F E AT U R E S

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liberation to be more flexible,’ Beck says. For Aigner, this manifests as sporty-style bumbags and attachable bag straps that feature the brand’s black and brown logo, as well as a monogrammed waistbag covered with painted flowers. This feminine update mirrors the style of Gucci’s monogrammed Dionysus bag, which, over recent seasons, has brought the brand’s classic 80s logo to life with doodles, sequin badges, graffiti and floral motifs. Aigner collaborated with fashion icon Iris Apfel this season to create a ready-to-wear collection, and highlights include a shearling jacket with the brand’s signature brown A print.

Whether its Gucci’s GG, Chanel’s double C or Louis Vuitton’s LV-emblazoned luggage, an obsession with logos and branding is hardly new. This fresh take on an old trend, however, has been adopted by more brands than ever for autumn/winter 2019/20, with Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara and Aigner reinventing themselves for Milan, and Burberry showcasing its new look in London. Is this a trend that will last forever? If history proves anything, then probably not, but it does instil a sense of irony in an otherwise serious fashion climate. And if there’s one thing fashion needs right now, it’s a sense of humour

Above: Iris Apfel’s autumn/winter 2019/20 campaign for Aigner

DYNAMIC DUOS

Above: Prada Linea Rossa

Pioneering high-fashion brands are staying fresh and relevant by introducing adventurous, innovative secondary lines. Ginger Rose Clark profiles three leading examples

44 | F E AT U R E S

he past few seasons have seen several high-profile luxury brands branch out into new territories. Prada revived its Prada Linea Rossa sportswearfocused line, originally created in 1997, during its fall/winter 2018/19 show; January 2019 saw the launch of Loeweâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eye/Loewe/Nature collection; and for autumn/winter 2019/20, Jil Sander introduces its new Jil Sander+ range. Until a decade ago, many brands favoured diffusion lines that offered a younger outlook and lower price point. However, in a wave of streamlining across the fashion industry, many of these diffusion lines have since folded, including the likes of Versus Versace, Burberry London and Dolce & Gabbanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s D&G. Now we are 81 93

witnessing a completely new approach, with high-end brands adding new facets to their offering and redefining the concept of secondary lines. A design-led approach emerges as a common trait at the heart of these new projects. Both Prada Linea Rossa and Jil Sander+ offer collections that are largely unisex and prioritise simple design and comfort. Prada Linea Rossa sportswear harnesses the current trend for revisiting the 1990s and pairs it with clean, refined silhouettes, epitomised by the use of the classic 90s logo of a red stripe with white Prada lettering. The vision for Jil Sander+ is also reflected by its logo, with a simple plus sign added after the Jil Sander name. Not only does the branding Above: Prada Linea Rossa

S H O P | 45

embody the luxury label’s signature minimalist aesthetic, it also points to its collaborative dimension. For its first collection, Jil Sander+ has partnered with bonded rubberised fabric specialist Mackintosh. The resulting outerwear pieces feature a modular dimension that draws on the heritage, expertise and craftsmanship of both brands. Another proponent of superb craftmanship, Loewe has also established a new outlet to develop and nurture its love of the well-made. The functional Eye/ Loewe/Nature line for men is made in Japan and showcases the brand’s high-fashion identity, combining it with a predominantly practical, utilitarian approach. All three lines reflect the ethos and aesthetic of their respective brand, and the focus on quality design and production methods means their price points are comparable to the main collections. With well-being very much a priority for customers worldwide, luxury brands are also catering to a hunger for everything from escapism to exercise. With Prada Linea Rossa, Prada taps into the athleisure trend with items such as socks, bucket hats and reflective jackets. It also boasts a select stockist list, which includes leading streetwear authority Highsnobiety. While Prada Linea Rossa is firmly anchored in activewear, Jil Sander+ defines itself as ‘for life outside the city’ and takes nature as its main source of inspiration. It echoes creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier’s love for the outdoors and sports such as hiking, skiing and Above (from top): Prada Linea Rossa; Jil Sander+, both autumn/winter 2019/20

46 | F E AT U R E S

climbing. Similarly, Eye/Loewe/ Nature is described as a ‘menswear line inspired by a utopian vision of the great outdoors’. Not only are its pieces created for those wishing to connect to nature, but, with €15 donated to combat plastic pollution for every piece sold in 2019, it’s also on a mission to help create a better world. All three brands are connected by their creation of purposeful designs, for running, camping, hiking and more. Producing sportswear and outdoor apparel requires technical expertise. Luxury brands are increasingly using buzz terms such as high-tech, performance-driven and hyper-functional to define their new collections, as they place a strong focus on technical and functional fabrics. Eye/Loewe/ Nature uses high-grade canvas for bags, recycled materials for jumpers and water-repellent nylon for parkas. Prada Linea Rossa utilises the latest advances in textile development, including nanotech fabrics, Gore-Tex Pro waterrepellent microfibres and PrimaLoft padding, while the Jil Sander+ range includes Japanesemade denim pieces, Arctic down jackets, packable outerwear and robust footwear. These innovative developments in performance textiles and outerwear design emerge in an artful play of form and function. While the great outdoors and sport serve as starting points, it’s clear that luxury brands are keen to remain anchored in high fashion and adaptable to urban life. Eye/Loewe/Nature’s pieces aim to Above (from top): Jil Sander+ autumn/winter 2019/20; boots from menswear line Eye/Loewe/Nature

S H O P | 47

PHOTO: XXXX

perform on a daily commute as well as in more demanding environments, and its bags, for example, have a similar aesthetic to those worn by people cycling to work. Each new line remains true to its brand’s DNA: the Jil Sander+ nature-inspired range shares the same minimal luxury aesthetic as the Jil Sander main line; while staging the first presentation of Prada Linea Rossa during Milan Fashion Week incontestably tied the sportswear range to high fashion. Luxury heritage fashion brands are anchoring themselves in the 21st century with the introduction of new secondary lines – proving that they know how to adapt to stay relevant and move forward. Beneath the technical, often outdoor-specific designs, these brands speak to their customers’ yearning for adventure, longing to be in nature and desire to push physical boundaries. As well as world-class pieces, these new lines also provide an insightful reflection of our times Above: xxxxxxxxxx

Above (both): Eye/Loewe/Nature’s recent collection

Bright Young Things

A new generation of Italian designers are ripping up the rule book when it comes to classic style, and injecting a sense of fun back into the industry, as Lucinda Turner discovers When you think of typical Italian fashion, a refined palette of neutrals, plenty of black and sharp tailoring probably come to mind. While many travel to Italy searching for pieces that capture that timeless look, Millennials are looking for the next big thing to come out of one of the most stylish countries in the world. And Italy’s emerging designers do not disappoint. In a world filled with seriousness and uncertainty, a new generation of Italian designers are putting fun, frivolity and glamour high on the agenda. Founded by friends and fashion insiders Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio in 2016, The Attico has quickly become one of the most anticipated presentations at Milan Fashion Week. As Tordini and Ambrosio are two of Milan’s most stylish influencers, the brand was destined to be the epitome of chic. Originally inspired by vintage 1920s-style robes, The Attico now specialises in party power dressing, with sequins, feathers, ruffles and 80s lamé at the heart of its autumn/ winter 2019/20 collection. ‘It’s all about living large, and enjoying it, whichever way possible,’ reads the press release for the brand’s latest launch. The Attico woman takes pride in her 82 95

Below: Giuseppe di Morabito autumn/winter 2019/20

independence, her touch of hedonism and in pursuing all things fun. The brand’s creations have been spotted on red carpets and at glamorous events across the globe, worn by everyone from Italian influencer Chiara Ferragni to supermodel Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley and Hollywood star Dakota Johnson, as well as members of the Kardashian family. Now stocked in some of the most prestigious department stores in Italy and around the world, The Attico is a firm advocate of having fun by getting dressed up, adding a little opulence to any occasion – a school of thought that has become more and more prevalent among Milan’s youngest and coolest labels. Established in 2014, Giuseppe di Morabito has become known for eye-catching embellishments,

vibrant colours and unexpected effects. Not one to conform, the brand staged an unconventional presentation during Milan Fashion Week autumn/winter 2019/20 in a dark and dramatic theatre, decked out with crystal chandeliers and featuring models who sparkled across the stage in dazzling creations. Much like The Attico, Giuseppe di Morabito kept the boldness of the 1980s in mind for the new season, with power shoulders, glittering knee-high boots and micro-length cocktail dresses taking starring roles. The brand cites eccentric Italian fashion icon of the early 20th century Marchesa Luisa Casati as a muse, once again keeping bold and powerful women at the core of the collection. The brand takes its Italian roots and the Made in Italy label extremely seriously, using traditional methods and classic Italian corsetry and tailoring throughout its pieces. It’s something that sets these young Italian labels apart from the rest of the world. While the end goal for many of Italy’s emerging talents is to shake things up and disrupt classic Italian dressing, a great respect for the craft and quality of Italian production remains paramount. ‘Made in Italy is a passion for high quality and for the history of Italian tailoring,’ says Sara Battaglia, whose eponymous label is now in its sixth season. ‘Italians have in their blood the passion for aesthetic, indeed for fashion.’ It is clear to see from Battaglia’s latest collection that the mixture of Left: Sara Battaglia autumn/winter 2019/20

PHOTO: MARCO VIGNATI

50 | F E AT U R E S

PHOTOS: (TOP) MARCO VIGNATI; (BOTTOM) VOGUE RUNWAY BY VITO FERNICOLA

S H O P | 51

precise tailoring and having fun with fashion is a wonderfully successful one. Power suiting, metallic lurex cocktail dresses and an OTT yellow faux-fur coat are each treated with equal importance within the range, which offers something for every moment of a customer’s day. ‘My ideal woman is a sophisticated one, elegant and strong,’ Battaglia remarks, ‘boardroom-ready yet powerfully feminine.’ Bold hues, striking shapes and volume are the brand’s signature. Although still in its infancy, the brand has amassed 150,000 followers on Instagram, as of June 2019, and a vast following among celebrities as well as the Italian fashion set. Starting as a handbag label, Battaglia now offers a ready-to-wear line that is the epitome of the glamorous, daring and sophisticated Milanese fashion scene. From a suit to impress at an important meeting to the most daring minidress to wear dancing on a Friday night, the brand has Above (from left): Sara Battaglia; The Attico, both autumn/winter 2019/20

truly found a way to connect to the lifestyle of a 21st-century woman. Establishing a new brand in a city so rooted in the traditions and heritage of the fashion industry is a difficult task. While today there are myriad ways for a label to try and stand out, from high-profile ambassadors to social media campaigns, The Attico, Giuseppe di Morabito and Sara Battaglia all focus on one thing: spectacular clothes. These designers create ‘look at me’ clothing for women who are too busy enjoying themselves to worry about whether anyone is looking at them or not. It is clothing created to have fun in, and designed for ‘a woman who smiles as she gets dressed’, according to Battaglia. Extravagant, playful and above all joyful – surely every wardrobe could benefit from a little of that

PHOTO: ISTOCK

ITALY GUIDE

Global Blue’s guide ensures youauco makeCatus the most of your Standfirst Opiervitilin acitimus omniquam trip tosericerfectu Italy with ame look at its cities’ hoca horarice atummust-visit inatarbit. destinations, frompor a leading Venetian eyewear specialist to the stunning Ata ut adhum rem Romnequem quemore ad conlos Santa Maria cathedral Ita, (pictured). with our auc tarit, numdel re,Fiore nos hostrunin con sus,Start Catque consi recommendations delving deeper withpatilissena, expert ponsupi oravoltumbefore adeo, quostrem, P. Essed guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out Каждый приезжаю в Хельсинки должен обязатель globalblue.com/italy Chinese 从游客必访的旅游景点，满载历史的传统品牌 Above: xxxxxxxxxx

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MBE

● LA CORONA

OUTFITFABI ● BALLERINETTE ● VIA DEL GAMBERO 20 ● PITRAN ● VALAMBERT ● FRANCESCHINI ●

CEL

VIA F R AT TINA

CALABRITTO 28 ●

VIA DELLA VITE

MILLERIGHE ● VISION OPTIKA ● BLACK BOX ● SUPERDRY ● FUMIS ● TEACH IT EASY ●

Rina

s ce

n te

OL AP IC

A●

GUJ

VIA DEI DUE MACELLI I- D S K IN ● ●

●J AC

N DA R D IN A T T IM U C K ● IL LY I G IÙ ● SH L EO & C OP ● H LO E● L M C AT E T T IM E IC A ● ELL I G IU PA U O D 'A U ' ● R L& S H A IA ● RK ● LA SOR GEN TE ●

VIA DEI DUE MACELLI

VIA

OP AG

●P IN K O ●P EL ● E LETTE R IA D IS O FL A N ●R CCO AL ● V PH IC T O RY ●M URA N ●K ALA O GLA SS MO

KSO

ER E ID ●P IN

P Mig ia z z a nan elli

●C H IU R AT ●E OM D IT IC H HB ELE

● Via dei Due Macelli

Global Blue Retailer

Piazza Mignanelli

● LAURA BIAGIOTTI ● NYA FIRENZE ● KIDS AROUND

VIA BORGOGNONA

DUE

VIA BE LSI AN

DANIELE ANCARANI ●

D EI

● DOMUS CALZATURE

SAVOY ●

V IA

VIA BORGOGNONA

’FIO RI

VIA DEL COR SO

PEUTEREY ●

MALO ● ATELIER-EME ● RUCOLINE ● HAVAIANAS ●

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

ALBERTA FERRETTI ●

VIA MA RIO DE

DAL SARTO ● PICCO GIOIELLI ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

S H O P | 57

SERRA Mario Serra founded his eponymous boutique at the start of the 20th century and the store remains a noteworthy address for Rome’s most discerning shoppers. Whether you’re looking for crystal, silver or objets d’art, you’re sure to be impressed by the selection here. In addition to its unique homeware items, the store also stocks an array of jewellery designs inspired by traditional Roman coins. From rings and earrings to pendants, these classic pieces look great when paired with a 21st-century outfit. sm Serra, Via Margutta 57, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 7093, serra-roma.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54

● Piazza di Spagna & Via Bocca di Leone TI

SUITE 76 ● GIULIA DI

VIA BELS I A N

CAMPER ● DIOR ● SEPHORA ● K-WAY ● SERMONETA ●

TÀ D E I M O N

LL A TRINI VIALE DE

● PHILIPPE MODEL ● FURLA

KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE

● ACQUA DI PARMA ● IWC

Global Blue Lounge ● FARMACIA TRINITA’ DEI MONTI

GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE-MUSEUM

VIA BORGOGNONA

IA N

GO R

● CROMIA ● PIER CARANTI

IST

Global Blue Lounge

Piazza Mignanelli

GRE

DI CORI ● BLUGIRL GENNY BRIC'S ● ULTURALE LA BOTTEGA DELL’ARGENTO ALEXANDER ● BLUEMINT THE MERCHANT OF VENICE

● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI ● NESPRESSO ● VALENTINO

● ● ● ● ● ●

VIA FRATTI NA

Place Of Interest

● VERSAC E ● DIESEL

BARBA ● APM MONACO ●

Piazza Di Spagna

E B A S T I A N E L LO

V IA

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● TINA ●

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●

VIA DI SA N S

LONGCHAMP ● HUBLOT ● MISSONI ● MONCLER ●

VIA CON D OTT

FRETTE ●

HERMÈS ●

VIA CON DOT TI

ESCADA ●

● ISAIA

LORIBLU ●

U IN

DOLCE & GABBANA ● JAEGERLECOULTRE ● EFRATI ● LOEWE ● EMILIO PUCCI ● CHANEL ●

● BLU GIRL

CAR ROZ ZE

PHILIPPE PLEIN ●

DI CASTRO ●

BAB

LA PERLA ● VIA DEL LE

VIA DEL LA CRO

● CARNEVALI AMINA ● RUBINACCI ● ANGELETTI ● GIORGIA R

DEL

MALLONI ● BERNARD DELETTREZ ● SPAZIO MANASSEI GIOIELLI ●

● FLEUR LUXURY LIVING ● ANITA ROMANI ● IL PESCIOLINO ROSSO

V IA

MENICHINI ●

VIA DEL LA CRO

VIA BOCCA DI LEONE

PROPERZIO GIOIELLI ●

58 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Via del Corso (North)

DELVAUX

Piazza Del Popolo ● BO

T TA

IPE

DE LB

DI R

VIA

UIN

STEFANO ● RICCI

VIA

EIS

DAVID HAMILTON ● GRATIE ●

VIA DEL CORSO

BERNABEI ● KINZLY ● LU ●

●Z

● ALFIERI

VI A D E LL ' OCA

ORIGINAL ● MARINES ANEL LA VI A D EL LA FONT

V IA DEL ●S VA N TA G G IO R IP A R T O R ENS E IA FOSSIL ● DESIGUAL ●

VIA DEL CORSO

FACTORY OUTLET ●

● SISLEY

CAMOMILLA ●

NIKE ● DEI

PON

FOOT LOCKER ● TEF

IC I

REDFORD ● GAP ●

VIA DEL CORSO

V IA

KIPLING COVER STORE BERNABEI ADELE ALTMAN SUBDUED KRUDER

VIA DI GESÙ E MA RI A

VIA DEL CORSO

BATA ● SEPHORA ● MAC ● KIKO ●

● ● ● ● ● ●

● DUNE

DADADA ●

VI A AN FLORENCE ● TO N IO CA N OV A

LUXURY OUTLET NEROGIARDINI LUSH TRIUMPH AS ROMA STORE TRITONE 47

● GUSCIO STORE ● MARCO

AW LAB ● NUVOLARI ● OTTICA SOLE ●

HAVAIANAS ●

● ● ● ● ● ●

Largo dei Lombardi

V I A D I S A N G I ACO M O

● ● ● ● ● ● ●

VANS ELISABETTA FRANCHI PERLA INGLOT MC2 SOLARIS COCCINELLE

● ● ● ● ●

DAVID MARC MORELLATO ALCOTT MONSANTO PEPE JEANS

● ● ● ● ●

BERNABEI SIMONA INTIMISSIMI UOMO DA VINCI FRANCESCHINI

VIA DEI GRECI

It seems fitting that Delvaux chose Rome’s historical epicentre as the location for its first flagship in the city, as the Belgian brand boasts an impressive history of its own, dating back 190 years. One of the world’s oldest leather goods brands, Delvaux has opened a stunning space a stone’s throw from Via dei Condotti. From the diamond-shaped marble floor to the Venini chandelier hanging in the atrium, the boutique’s interior is as beautiful as its artisanal pieces and shopping here is a luxury experience. Opt for the iconic Brillant bag in peacock corduroy or a vibrant yellow mini bucket bag. ra Delvaux, Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina 36, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6830 1290, delvaux.com

VIA VITTORIA ● TIM ● MONDO WIND ● SLAM ● INTIMISSIMI ● SUITE BENEDICT ● STROILI ● CALVIN KLEIN ● PANDORA LUXURY EYEWEAR ● OUTLET ● LEGAMI ● CHOPIN ● CARMENS

VIA DELLA CROCE ISHOP ●

CAMPER ● BRANDY & MELVILLE ●

LL VIA

H&M ●

Global Blue Retailer

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

CALZEDONIA DECCIO CARLO FORNARINA GOLDEN POINT ASOLE E BOTTONI TALLY WEIJL DIESEL GUESS

VIA DELLE CARROZZE

● TWIN-SET ● ZARA ● ESOTICA

VIA BELSIANA

NCI EO

VIA DEL CORSO

GEOX ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer

S H O P | 59

● Via del Corso (Central)

Largo dei Lombardi

GEOX ●

DELVAUX ● CRUCIANI & BELLA ● GIOIELLERIA CRISTIANA ●

● GOLDEN POINT ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● DIESEL ● GUESS

BONPOINT ●

● TWIN-SET ● SEVEN DOORS ● ESOTICA

LTÀ LL'U MI

I AS CH RG A M VI A BE B U R RÒ VI A D E ’

LEGI O RO M A

VI A DE

VIA DEL CO L

● ETY ● OTTICA CANOVAI

VI A SS. A P O STO LI

● DOUGLAS

● SUITE BENEDICT

● MINERAL

VICOLO DEL PIOMBO

● OUTLET ● MONSANTO ● TEBE ● LEVIATAN ● SALOMÈ ● LE GROUP ● ALLENBY STORE ● ALCOTT ● CLASS ● RIENZI

VIA CE SAR E B ATT ISTI Piazza Venezia

Featured In This Issue

PIAZZA DEI SANTISSIM I APOSTOLI

VI A DEL PLEB IS CITO

VIA DEL CORSO

SCHEGGE ● VICOLO D ORIA

● BRACCIALINI ● CLASS DAMIANO ● PRESTA ● BOGGI

VIA DI SANTA MARIA IN V IA

RES L'I M P

DEL

VI A DI SAN MARCEL LO

V IA

VIA DI SA NTA M A RIA IN VIA

VICO LO S CIAR

● DOPPELGANGER ● EDAS

OYSHO ●

BOGGI ●

COCCINELLE ●

BERSKA ●

BE TWEEN ●

VIA DEL CORSO

Galleria Alberto Sordi

ETTI

● OMAI NOW OR NEVER ● COVER STORE

VIA DEL CORSO

AU DI A

CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ●

VIA SA N CL

● MR CHRISTMAS

VIA LATA

● ZARA

VI A MARCO MINGH

CELIO ●

TIT E

HOYA ●

TWO WAY ●

T IN CA

GUTTERIDGE ● MIRIADE ● YAMAMAY ●

Piazza di San Silvestro

DAN JOHN ●

BARONE ● TE

I AD VI VI A D EL CA RAVITA

● TISSOT ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ● CALZEDONIA ● MANGO ● SWATCH ● VODAFONE ● PIKOLINOS ● MISS SIXTY

VIA DELL E M U RATT E

VATURI ● LA CONCERIA ●

N MO

VIT E

VIA DELLE CO NV ER

PIE T RA

VI A DEL CORSO

GA MB E

VIA DE L LA

ZUIKI ● VIA DI

VIA DE L

VIA DEL CORSO

● WYCON ● DISNEY STORE ● GRILLI

MOOD ● ROBERTO ANTICOLI ●

● SARTORIA ROSSI ● FURLA ● MASSIMO DUTTI

NON

● NYX ● INTIMISSIMI UOMO ● TEZENIS ● PARFOIS ● MARC O’POLO ● COLONNA ● LUISA SPAGNOLI

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA BOR GOG

TIM ●

LUXURY OUTLET ●

Place Of Interest

● SAINT LAURENT

AUDEMARS ● PIGUET

ZIO

Galleria Piazza Colonna Alberto Sordi

VIA FRATTINA

VIA DEL PARLAMENTO

TIM ● X CORSI ● FIFTY FIFTY ●

● Via del Corso (South)

● POLO RALPH LAUREN ● YAMAMAY ● OTTICA EFRATI ● ALDO

Piazza del Parlamento

Piazza Colonna

● BOTTEGA VENETA

MARINA MILITARE ●

N D O TT

● SWAROVSKI ● YAMAMAY ● FALCONERI ● CARPISA ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● NARA CAMICIE ● KIKO A

VIA BE LSIANA

VI A CO

RAY-BAN ● MR CHRISTMAS ● BENETTON ● DAVID HAMILTON ● CORNER ●

INTIMISSIMI ●

● CARSHOE

GALLERIA ALBERTO SORDI ● LIU JO

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

VI A IN LU CI N A

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ●

VIA DELLE CARROZZE

FERRARI

T O ● STORE M A FENDI ● CE LLI

HAUSMANN & CO ● ACCESSORIZE ● PUMA ●

VIA

AESOP ●

● PASQUALE BRUNI

PIQUADRO ● LA FELTRINELLI ●

VIA

H&M ●

OLIVER PEOPLES ●

VIA BELSIANA

L EO N C I N O

VIA DEL CORSO

POMELLATO ●

● CALZEDONIA ● DECCIO CARLO

CAMPER ●

● SPADA

CASADEI ●

VIA DELLA CROCE

ISHOP ●

BRANDY & MELVILLE ●

VIA DEL CORSO

LOUIS VUITTON ●

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

GAP ●

VIA DEL CORSO

REDFORD ●

● Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

● MONDO WIND ● MARELLA ● INTIMISSIMI ● EFFETTI ● MARC O’POLO ● ET MOI ● ATHLETES WORLD ● LA 3 STORE ● NAU ● CHOPIN ● DAVID SADDLER

T O R IO

VENE

TT UA

● PINOCCHIO

● SANDRO FERRONE

AN NT

L B OC CA

● DOPPELGANGER

● VALLI

VIA DE

● ADELE ALTMAN

CASUCCIO ● & SCALERA

● MAX & CO ● R.BAZZOCCHI

● SAMSONITE ● PRONOVIAS

CC IO

PHOTO: AUGUSTO BUZZEO

V IA V IT

G A LL I N A C C I O

VI A Z U

CC HE LL

O DEL

NE TT ER

● OVS INDUSTRY

LL A PA

● MOUNTAIN AFFAIRS STORE VI A DE

ALTA MODA FURS ● CIR CORREDI ● CHANTAL ●

BLUE SAND ● A CLIÒ ●

SI DAN JHON ● A VI MÉLIE ● DELSEY ● GATTEGNA ● ALLEMBY 101 ● UNITED COLORS OF BENETTON ●

CLASS ●

JOELA ●

MICHAEL F ● SEPHORA ●

I DU

Metro

● GIOIELLERIA ● STONEFLY

CLARKS ● SOUVENIR SHOP ● COMPAGNIA ITALIANA ● WHITE MOOD ● ESTHER ●

Rinascente

This season, Italian brand Luisa Spagnoli looks to the heritage of the United Kingdom, from Scottish tartan on coats and blouses to pinstriped wool, tweed and houndstooth textiles across masculine-inspired tailoring and smart day dresses. The brand’s signature knitwear also takes on a British twist, with chunky argyle-inspired jumpers and long woven skirts. lt Luisa Spagnoli, Via Frattina 84B, 00187 Rome, +39 06 699 1706, luisaspagnoli.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 55

● MELLUSO

● MUJI

VIA

POL

● SAXON'S

VIA POLI

● SB LEATHER SHOP

● REMAX

VIA DI SANTA MARIA IN VIA

VI A

VIA

P.28

DI CORI ● BOX 51 ● MR MUZIO ● TRITONE 47 ● FUSARO ● VODAFONE ● B&H ● TIGER ● OD STORE ● SPADA ● ALTARIVA ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

DOUGLAS ● ANNA VIRGILI ● G.GAZZARRINI ●

● MEDICI ● GERARD

● MACRON ● SETTIMIO MIELI

Department Store

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Retailer

V I A D E G LI AV IG N O N E SI

BARBERINI FONTANA DI TREVI Piazza Barberini

VIA DEL TRITONE

VIA DEL T RITO NE LARGO CHIGI

VIA RAS ELL

VIA RA S ELLA

V IA

RO OR TA D EL M

VIA DEL CORSO

Galleria Alberto Sordi

Piazza di San Claudio

ELL

E FR

TECH IT EASY ● LA ZUCCA STREGATA ● STONEFLY ● NAPAPIJRI ● N9VE ● NEW BALANCE ● TIMBERLAND ●

● IKEA

VIA DEL CORSO

Piazza di San Silvestro

VISION OPTIKA ●

● BEDETTI

I SA

VIA D V I A D E L P OZ Z E T TO

U DIO N CL A V IA D EI SA

C IO

V I CO L

60 | G U I D E

● Via del Tritone, Piazza di San Silvestro, Via di San Claudio & Via delle Convertite

● Via del Tritone

LUISA SPAGNOLI

S H O P | 61

MILAN ● Piazza San Babila, Corso Matteotti & Via Bigli Corso Venezia & Corso Europa

CLARKS ●

RA I I M TA ON LIA DI N I BI N O DI P DE S DI P TIC ET PE C BIG A LU A TIN ND UL LI ARIN M C A L C A R E N T I ●● VIA VI M ENT OL T ● TT IL E I OR M M O SA N OR ●● AT C IO IA A ● O M 'S ● R IM AR NP ● CH SA V IA TH ES VI TO I● VI U M N EN ● ● NE T BE BOL RE W HE LS INI NC OT DE ES FL IR ● O TI BE T W E X E ● CA R OO X ● N VE A D Ta NE RD ● LI ● & F r tu VI ZIA I ● N F ﬁ EL FO AR OR AN ● IG rien RN M IE I ● O A A S AC M ● M ds RE IL ET IA RO AN ND TI ● ’A BE MA O DO ● NT R L A L T L S CE O O A DO FE NI VI & LC ST ● GA E& D A● BB Ba GA OL A r CASA N ● ARMANI A FL BB CE & M a ● rt AV A N G ● STONE ISLAND KIDS IO A B AB ini NE ● ANTONEL LI FIRENZE CA AR BA RO N ST BI NA ● ALFIERI ST.JOHN GI ER EL ER ● AR O LA E ● ● WOLFOR D DI GIA NI NI R P DO ● GAGÀ MILANO JU DIN ● LC HILI NI ● ROY ROGERS OR I ● E & PP ● GA PLE ● DIEGO M P.3 IN BB ● ULTIMA EDIZIONE 1 M ● AN O ● EMPRESA W R E CO A ● OO SC S ● NOMINAT ION LR HI ● IC ● ● CHRISTO FLE H CR ● OM ● LUIGI BORRELL I VILLA NECCHI IA ● ● RED VALENTI NO CAMPIGLIO H ZA OY O M R A E LI S ● CO VI A H O ● FLO S ● NT NA OR T E I● S O MO NF

● BIGLI 24 ● CODECASA GIOIELLI LA CARAMELLA ● D'ORO VI

M ON TE

NA PO

LE ON E VI A M ON

● FIG I N I

BOGGI ●

Place Of Interest

ER TO N E UB

D RO MO NT CO

AR CO VIA

MA RZ IA

LE M

VIA

● MHWAY

Pavé

RV A

I DI

RIN

LA RGO CORSIA DEI

CORSO EUROPA ● EMPORIO CASA

V IS

V IA

● B&B ITALIA ● RONCATO VA LE RIO

VI A PAT TA

● MARGHERITA ● JUVENTUS STORE

● LIBERO MILANO ● NATUZZI ● CASSINA

COLOMBO STYLE ● LUXURY LIVING ● FENDI CASA ●

Brian & Barry Building San Babila

● GALLO ● SMOKE

V IA

MERITALIA ●

VIA ANSELMO RONCHETTI

● GUESS

Featured In This Issue

ITTALA ●

ARTEMID E ● FONTANA ARTE ●

● SUITSUP PLY ● ICF ● SAN BABILA GIOIELLI ● MAZZ OLAR I

NORTH SAILS ● LUXURY LIVING ●

GERVASONI ●

CO R

VI A BORGOG NA

JOAQUIN BERAO ●

V IA

PAUL TAYLOR ● MYPOS ● DEL MARE ●

IAN

ORT

NBA ● TIMBERLAND ● TRUSSARDI JEANS ●

AVIREX ●

Bar

A L L’

INTER STORE MILANO ● BOGGI ● MIROR ●

TRO

Piazza San Carlo

STONE FLY ●

Restaurant

LUC E PLA N ●

SAN BABILA

● LEGO ● SALMOIRAGHI VIGANÒ ● EDDY MONETTI ● RAY-BAN ● FLORSHEIM ● BROSWAY Piazza ● BOGGI San Babila ● NESPRESSO ● BALDININI TREND ● MAZZOLARI ● CAMICISSIMA ● VANNUCCI ● DIESEL MILANO OFFICIAL ● STORE

P IE

ELE

DE PADOVA ●

SAN

TO R

TTI

● ESCADA ● JUST CAVALLI

● UNIFOR ● RODO ● MORONI GOMMA

V IA

PA O

V IT

A EM

BOSS STORE ● ROBERTO FESTA ●

Sant'Ambroeus Bar

MAZZOLARI ● TIMBERLAND ● TUMI ●

HARMONT & BLAINE ●

SAN

RSO

● BORBONESE

COR SO MAT TEO

VIA

FERUTDIN ZAKIROV ●

DE MATTIA ● PASABAHCE ● PIKENZ ● JECKERSON ● GRAVATI ● SARA GIUNTI ● ALVIERO MARTINI ●

Piazza Meda

DODO ● FABBRICA PELLETTERIE MILANO ●

AB . VE VIA P

● ANTICHITÀ PIVA & C.

● NELLA LONGARI ● ULTURALE ● BEHOUSE ● D MAGAZINE ● ASPESI

CLOTH ● DORMEUIL

SÙ

OS RG BO

TO NA

62 | I TA LY G U I D E

DOUGLAS ● PERSONA ● ALTIERI ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

V IA

R IO

V IA

V IT

MUTINELLI CAPPELLI ● FOSSIL ● IXOS ● ● H&M GRANDVISION ● ● SAN PIETRO MILANO KIKO ● PEPE JEANS ●

Piazza Santa Francesca Romana

● PIQUADRO ● GUESS KIDS ● GUESS

● F.LLI SOLENNE GIOIELLI

G IN

AG IO

VA N

● YANKEE CANDLE

● MEXTON

ST AL

GAMESTOP ● STRADIVARIUS ●

ILO

V IA

VIA

TA D

V IA

Dry Milano

AT I

OT AD AN

SS ZI

V IA

A TA L

V IC

V IA

● FREDDY L'OCCITANE ● ● OLTRE ELENA MIRO ● ● MORELLATO STROILI ORO ● ● WAKE UP COSMETICS GEOX ● ● DANIEL & MAYER V IA SWAROVSKI ● ● ANTONY MORATO G IO YAMAMAY ● VA ● TWIN SET NN ● LEVI’S IO M ● HAVAIANAS FOOT LOCKER ● BO NI NARA CAMICIE ● ● AERONAUTICA MILITARE CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● ● KIPLING OS TO ● CARRERA JEANS DA M CA ● NIKE MILANO SE ALVI EC

N IS

V IA

● Corso Buenos Aires

RT AV

VIA P

● TOMMY HILFIGER

A ZI

V IA

LAM

BRO

LAM

BRO

ME L ZO

FRIS

V IA

SI RT

O RI

AO LO

VIA

PP E

I PIE T

G IU SE

C AG N

V IA

AS IA M

C AR

O LL

P AL

Piazza Guglielmo Oberdan

PORTA VENEZIA

IL GUFO Not content with dressing the world’s most stylish infants, Italian label Il Gufo has now expanded its offering for autumn/winter 2019/20 to include elegant and functional clothing for older children. Pieces range from puffer jackets in shades of bright orange, teal, grey and black to robot-adorned knits, beanies with bear ears and neutral scarves. For the Christmas party season, be sure to invest in a tiny tuxedo for your mini man and prepare for cuteness overload. sm Il Gufo, Via San Pietro All’Orto 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3705 9805, ilgufo.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 65

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

Restaurant

S H O P | 63

● Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Via San Pietro all’Orto & Via Torino SA NP

VI NO RI NE A

N L' U

● ALCOTT LUSH ● ● H&M STRADIVARIUS ● TREND ● LEVI'S ● ● SIZE

ION

● CALLIOPE

VIA MA Z ZINI

DEL

OYSHO ● ● INTIMISSIMI ● VICTORIA'S SECRET ● CALZEDONIA ● INTISSIMI UOMO ● CAMPER MM ● ● OROLOGERIA LUIGI VERGA NAU ● ● GEOX BOTTEGA VERDE ● ● FOOT LOCKER SWEET WAY ● MAC ● ● MANGO BOUTIQUE DEL GIOIELLO ● VIA G AE TANO GIAR DINO TRE ESSE SPORT ● ● TORINO 21 ● NIKE STORE ● BATH & BODY WORKS AW LAB ● MUJI ● ● PARFOIS PANDORA ● ● CARPISA PULL & BEAR ● ● KIKO SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ● ● KEY BE KIEHL'S ● O ● PIMKIE N ACCESSORIZE GUESS ● R I● ● MIRIADE A TO G TEZENIS ● A ● MARCO ZA N TALLY WEIJL ● V I ● OTTICA BARELLO GO ● TERRANOVA DIXIE ● O OVS INDUSTRY ● FIGINI ●

VIA

NT A

SA A VI GO U

H R

ITA ER

NT AM SA V IA

TA TA M A R V IA SAN

LO RI

TIFFANY & CO ●

VI A U GO FOSCOLO

LB M

● FERRARI STORE

DE N

ZARA ●

Piazza Del Duomo

MONDADORI ●

Ristorante Cracco

CURRADO ● GRIMOLDI ● RUGGERI ● LA FARMACIA CARLO ERBA ●

Motta Ristorante

DUOMO

BENETTON ●

A SA

Piazza Mercanti CI

Piazza Pio XI

VI A

AFFAEL E

RA Ristorante R Biﬃ

PECK ●

Pasticceria VI Marchesi A

● OXUS ● CHANEL

VIA S. PELLICO

C●O PRADA

AR ● FELTRINELLI M

VIA M ENGONI

SARTORIA ROSSI ● CIELO 1914 ●

O Ristorante SI USavini RD

G ALLERI A VIT TOR IO EMANUEL E II

● AIGNER

CADÉ ●

VIA

Ristorante Il Salotto

VI ● BRIC’S A S. ● GUCCI RA ● GIORGIO ARMANI DE GO ● LOUIS VUITTON

Bar Camparino

MASSIMO DUTTI ● STEFANEL ●

Ristorante Cracco

V I A TO M M A S O G R O S SI NE

TOD’S ● SWAROVSKI ● VERSACE ●

VIA SAN R

VIA MENGONI

PRADA ●

LEICA ●

IT A

S TA

LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

Autogrill-terrazza Aperol

Ristorante Galleria

GAL L ERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II

● BORSALINO ● MONTBLANC MUSEO LEONARD ● DANTE ● CORDUSIO MEJANA ● PIUMELLI RIZZOLI ● ● CHURCH’S ANDREW'S TIES ● ● NOLI

GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II

V IA

Piazza della Scala

TRUSSARDI ●

ITALIA MISSORI

● CLAYTON ● PARASHOP

DAVID NAMAN Menswear brand David Naman has been creating sophisticated suiting and separates since 1996. The youthful brand’s retroinspired patterned shirts are an essential purchase for the autumn/ winter 2019/20 season and best worn with slim-fit trousers – with or without a dynamic pinstripe. As well as clothing to keep you looking sharp, the brand also offers the You First fragrance as the perfect finishing touch to new-season outfits. Combining Calabrian bergamot with Sicilian lemon, this enchanting scent will remind you of your visit to Italy each time you wear it. sm David Naman, Corso Buenos Aires 66, 20131 Milan, +39 02 2952 0134, davidnaman.com Bar

Café

64 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Corso Vittorio Emanuele

VI A DU RINI

E II

UEL

O RS

LL E DE

● RAY BAN ● BROSWAY

OD STORE ●

● BOGGI

V IT

SIGNOR VINO ● LUSH ●

Piazza San Carlo

● BALDININI TREND

PA O

FAE L E

RSO

IO TO R

Piazza San Babila

RE TO RS ● SISLEY TE ● CAMICISSIMA ● IN ● NYX ● DIESEL GEOX ● I E● E R N Z ● ACCESSORIZE IR IRE ● URBAN OUTFITTERS ● NBA F ● TRUSSARDI JEANS O'BAG ●

SAN

VIA SA N RAF

Rinascente

OTTICA VANZINA ● Y NOT ? ● H&M ● ROCCA 1974 ●

● TWIN SET ● TIMBERLAND ● THE NORTH SAILS KIKO ● ● LUISA SPAGNOLI SWATCH ● ● MILAN MEGA STORE GOBBI 1842 ● ● MICHAEL KORS COCCINELLE ● ● PINKO SWAROVSKI ● ● DISNEY ● LIU JO ZARA ● THE HIGHLINE O MEN ● ● FOOT LOCKER O RT A L L’ ● GAP ZARA ● TRO ● ADIDAS . P IE CALZEDONIA ● V. S ● TEZENIS UNITED COLOURS ● PULL & BEAR OF BENETTON ● ● OTTICA CRISAFULLI ● SEPHORA IS ● BERSHKA IS TO FO R I A DE CR ● MANGO G A LL ER ● KIKO ID MAX MARA ● MAX & CO ● PENNYBLACK ● ● MOTIVI I BLUES ● ● WYCON ● YAMAMAY MARELLA ● MARINA RINALDI ● ● CISALFA

VIA

SAN BABILA

● LOLITA

APPLE ●

FOOTBALL TEAM ●

DUOMO

COR SO MATTE OTT I

● DIMENSIONE DANZA

Piazza Liberty

INTIMISSIMI ● ● NARA CAMICIE ● OTTICA SAN CARLO CELIO ● ● LIBERO MILANO TISSOT ● VIA SAN CL EMEN T E ARI VI A PATT ● MATHEUS ● PK ● ALCOTT-GUTTERIDGE ● CARPISA & OTHER STORIES ● ● FALCONERI INGLOT ● ● INTIMISSIMI MISS SIXTY ● NARA CAMICIE ● FURLA ●

VI A A Cioccolati G N EL Italiani L

● CLARKS

● NESPRESSO

AT T

STONE ISLAND ●

Piazza Meda

ORE

Florentine brand Gia Couture has carved out a niche for itself with its stunning handmade footwear. This season, the label offers an updated velvet version of its spring/summer Bandana Girl style. Featuring a kitten heel, pointed toe and bow detail, and available in a host of colours, from baby pink to mustard, the Bandana Girl shoes are the perfect investment. For those looking for the perfect newseason choice, the Rubino cowboy boots are feminine and flattering, or you can enjoy a 1980s-inspired moment with the black and gold Agata knee-high boots. sm Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Excelsior Milano, Galleria Del Corso 4, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7601 5167, giacouture.it Metro

Restaurant

PHOTOS: ROBERTO MONTIS

GIA COUTURE

S H O P | 65

● Via Pietro Verri, Piazza Meda, Via Gesù & Via Sant’Andrea VIA SENATO

PRADA ●

SAINT LAURENT ● THOM MIU MIU ● ● BROWNE PHILIPPE MODEL ●

● BERLUTI JIL SANDER ● N AV Y ● PREMIATA ● MR&MRS GI A MBATTISTA ● VALLI ● AQUAZZURA ● CHANEL ● IRIS STUART ● WEITZMAN ● BANNER CESARE ● PACIOTTI ● RIMOWA ● CHIARA BONI ● DORIANI

70 LUXURY BRANDS ● ROGER VIVIER ●

VI A GESÙ

AGNONA ● CHURCH’S ● GIVENCHY ● CARLO ELEUTERI ● MAISON MARGIELA ● BORSALINO ●

VIA SAN T ’ANDREA

BOTTEGA VENETA ●

● CAOVI LLA

LE SILLA ● ERES ● JIMMY CHOO ● CASADEI ●

● BRIONI

VIA BAG U TTA

● MI S SONI PROMEMORIA ●

VIA MONTENAPO L EONE

VIA BIGL I

ICEBERG ● GENNY ●

● PIAGET ● GUCCI

VI A PIETRO VER R I

PATEK PHILIPPE ● VACHERON CONSTANTIN-PISA ● PISA OROLOGERIA ● ETRO PROFUMI ●

ALEXANDER ● MCQUEEN

● JIL SANDER ● FREDDY ● LA MARTINA ● DSQUARED2 ● PALADINI

FRIEDERIC ● MALLE

TOM FORD ● JULIPET ●

Pi M azz ed a a

CANALI ● BAL DININ I● PUN ELEVEN TO O TY T T IC O ● LOR ● ENZ I C A S M IL A N O TEL LAN ● I●

VI A S

A N PA

O LO

● Via San Pietro all’Orto VI

TT A

TE NA PO LE ON E

TRO

’O R ALL

● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH ZEPTER ● INTERNATIONAL

SAN BABILA

● BROOKS BROTHERS ● PRONOVIAS

SAMSONITE ● MAURO LEONE ● CONTIGO ● BOSE ● CASHMIRINO ● FOR PETS ONLY ●

P IE

YOUNG VERSACE ●

SAN

CORS O MATT EOTT

V IA

● ISAIA JIL ● ALCANTARA SANDER ● BOGLIOLI ● ● BAGUTTA MASCHIO ● ● IL GUFO P.62 PIN-UP ● POMELLATO ● ● ASPESI UTDIN ZAKIROV ●

Piazza San Carlo

● FERUTDIN ZAKIROV ● SUPERGA

Featured In This Issue

● SANDRO FERRONE ● MARCO

Gelateria

●

DO LU SI C M RI C I LV AR O AIA BA AN AN AN ST IN RIE TI RB IC EF O O RO DO O F NT FIN A N L RU AS B B LA AN H MT I N A R A R B T T K S A U C O S SA L E A A PA R D O PAG OYB I N I R A A R R M A AC M I R I C Z I L E R C A E T E R N Z T O NL B AA L' S AT R T T S O L I I N I A R D C I ●M Ì ●C I ● L I ● E ●T I ● T ●A ● I ● ● ● ● I ● ● ● ● ● ● ● DI A QU AC

VIA SAN DAMIANO

MOSCHINO ●

VIA DELLA SPIGA

C. MAT TEOT TI

MOSCHINO Creative director Jeremy Scott does fun and frivolity better than most, so it’s no surprise that some of the best accessories from Moschino this season are those with a sense of humour. From a pink 1980s-inspired can of hairspray to fruit machines and champagne, a host of decadent references have been reimagined as quirky chain strap bags – perfect for adding that tongue-in-cheek finishing touch to a party outfit. With so many nods to the decade of excess, it’s no surprise that Moschino emphasises its founding year, 1983, across these unique creations. sm Moschino, Via Sant’Andrea 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 2639, moschino.it

66 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Via Montenapoleone MON

TEN

APO

VIA P

P ia z za C R o s s ro ce a NE

L EO

VI A M

VI A MONTEN APOLEO NE

VI A BO RGO

POMELLATO ● GIADA ● TOD’S ● VERSACE ●

Pasticceria Marchesi

HENRY BEGUELIN ● OMEGA ●

LA N I FICIO COLO MB O ● P IQ UADRO ● JACO B COHEN ● G USEL L A ● AP M M O N ACO ●

SP ESS

O E FER RAG AM

● SALVAT OR INO ● VAL ENT

VIA SANTO SPIRITO

● ALBERTA FERRETTI ● MALO

VI A BO

RG O SP

ES SO

AGRESTI ● VIA SANT O SPIR

ITO

LANVIN ●

BILLIONAIRE ● KRIZIA ●

VIA GESÙ

● C ARTIER ● PAUL & SHARK ● L A PERLA ● MO N TENAPOL EONE 14 ● HERMÈS ● MARN I ● DIOR ● BURBERR Y ● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ● VENINI

Illy Caﬀè

AKRIS ●

● PRADA WOMAN ● G I USEPPE ZA N OTTI DESIGN ● SA IN T LAURENT

V IA

SAN

P IE

TRO

● SABBADI N I ● ROBERTO CAVALLI ● CAMPER ● SANTONI ● PRADA MAN ● AUDEMA RS P IG UET ● DOLCE & G A BBANA

● NILU FAR ● V-GRASS ● No30 MILANO ● L.B.M. 1911 ● BLUMARINE ● CHLOÉ

TIFFANY & CO. ● ERIKA CAVALLINI ● FRANCK MULLER GENEVE ● RICHARD MILLE ● ALDO BRUE’ ● RIVOLTA DAL 1883 MILANO ● FAY ●

VIA SANT’A NDREA

POLLINI ● MIU MIU ● VIA SANT’ANDREA

SCAVIA ● COLOMBO VIA DELLA SPIGA ● SICIS JEWELS ● TORY BURCH ● MONCLER ENFANT ●

A L L’

● GIORGIO ARMANI

● LOUIS VUITTO N

T RO

● MOORER ● GIANNI CHIARINI FIRENZE ● MAISON MARGIELA ● SERMONETA ● VILEBREQUIN ● FABIANA FILIPPI ● ROSATO ● I PINCO PALLINO ● SERAPIAN ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● LORENA ANTONIAZZI ● MEGA FASHION

VIA DELLA SPIG A

VIA MON TEN A POLEON E

Cova

ALES

● CREED ● MONNALISA ● PRETTY BALLERINAS ● PIAZZA SEMPIONE ● ROCCO BAROCCO ● MC2 SAINT BARTH ● DONDUP

VIA GESÙ

● DAMIA NI

VIA PIET RO VERRI

HOGAN ● HERNO ● FENDI CASA ● FENDI ● SALVAT ORE FERRAG AMO ● MONCLE R ● IWC ● SIMONE TTA RAVIZZ A BY ANNABE LLA ● JAEGER -LECOULTRE ● OFFICIN E PANERA I ● FRATEL LI ROSSET TI ●

ER I ● FA LC ON IAN I ● CO RN EL ● PIN KO E - PIS A N BO UT IQU SIG ● RO LE XPP E ZA NO TT I DE ● GIU SE IE DI EM PO LI O ● VE TR ER

SWATCH ● BALDININI ● BALENCIAGA ● MICHELA BRUNI REICHLIN ● BUCCELLATI ● PHILIPP PLEIN ● CUSI GIOIELLIERI ● DEVI KROELL ● VHERNIER ● FABIO GAVAZZI ● LOEWE ● COACH ● ITALIA INDEPENDENT ● BREGUET ●

LARUSM IANI ● GUCCI ● ETRO ●

AN ZO

VILEBR EQUIN ● GIOVANNI RASP I N I ●

VI A DEL L A SP IGA

● BA LLY O ZEG NA ● ERM ENE GILDBAL MAI N ● INEL LI ● BRU NEL LO CUC ● MON TBL ANC ● ETA BOT TEG A VEN LOR O PIAN A ● ● SER GIO ROS SI ● EMI LIO PUC CI SALVINI ● CELINE ●

● Via della Spiga

TATRAS ● CAR SHOE ● SPIGA UNO ● CRIVELLI ● FALCONERI ●

D&G ●

● TOD’S ● SPORTMAX ● PRADA VIA SAN P R IM

● CHOPARD

● MICHAEL KORS ● PASQUALE BRUNI ● PEUTEREY ● LONGCHAMP ● GIÒ MORETTI

P.12

ERMANNO ● SCERVINO CO R

SO V

ENE

Z IA

● BULGARI

SIMONETTA RAVIZZA Simonetta Ravizza launches its first menswear capsule collection this season. Created in collaboration with Lardini, the playful range comprises city coats, puffer jackets and shearling outerwear. grc Simonetta Ravizza, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 2921, simonettaravizza.com

Global Blue Retailer Metro

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Café

Restaurant

S H O P | 67

VENICE ● Calle Larga XXII Marzo & Salizada San Moisè FRETTE ●

SSO

R T IR I

E AT R O

Gelateria

ARE

C . BAR

OISÈ

ALL LE V

3 MA

C . D. T

One of Venice’s leading eyewear specialists, Ducale Ottica offers everything from designer spectacles to sunglasses, contact lenses and even eye examinations. sm Ducale Ottica, Calle Larga San Marco, San Marco 361, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 6686, ducaleottica.com

Place Of Interest

E OOS EN G OLD GA ●G N C IA ALE B ● E E L IN ●C O O● ANN O ETR E R M E R V IN SC LO ● L E N C H 'S BRU ELLI ● R HUR IN ● C E R N IE CUC H ONI ●V ● IS S & CO ● M M IA N I ANY A T IF F ● D A R IC A ● M IC E VEN

DUCALE OTTICA

Global Blue Lounge

A SA

CAL

CALL

C .D .1

CC H I

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

OT T ● LOUIS VUITTON L RID E DE

SA LIZ A D

Campo S. Moisè

Z OZ

GALLERIA DELL’ ASCENSIONE ● ● CHANEL ● TAG HEUER DIOR ● ● CHANEL RENÈ CAOVILLA ● ● LORO PIANA A. CODOGNATO ● HERMÈS ● ● SAINT LAURENT

CARTIER ● BOTTEGA VENETA ● MIU MIU ● PRADA/ DONNA UOMO ● VERSACE ● MAJE ●

MONCLER ● CHANEL ● ● GUCCI ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● SAINT LAURENT ● TOD’S

C A LL E P EDRO

● ARMANI

● CONTINI GALLERIA D'ARTE ● BURBERRY ● LA COUPOLE UOMO ● SERMONETA GLOVES ● MALO/AGNONA

● FABIANA FILIPPI

POMELLATO ●

AMP MONACO ● ELEUTERI ●

LE L A

R ZO

MARINA E SUSANNA SENT ●

G lobal Blue L ounge

JESURUM ●

ANTONIO SEGUSO ●

FALCONERI ● PAUL & SHARK ● ZORA FOREVER ●

MONCLER ● VENETIA STUDIUM ● VALEXTRA ●

CAL

MA A X X II

A● R ZAR JES N AU T T E RA R V IA S CT ● D N TO N P ROJ E ERMENEGILDO ● A A L L IN ● ZEGNA ●B

OMEGA ● JIMMY CHOO ● IC A I OT T R BA N E Z ZER IA FR ●U BULGARI ●

NA ● DON RI ● C OLE OUP 4 MA DI ● LA C FEN P.3

68 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Piazza San Marco CA LL

RD AR

SIST'ART ●

PALESA GALLERY ●

PAULY ●

VENINI ● IDA BASTIANELLO ● LA COUPOLE GLASS ● ANTICA MURRINA VENEZIA ● CRUCIANI

JUNIOR ●

AD ● CAMILLA ●

U- BOAT ● OFFICINA BERNARDI ● FOPE GIOIELLI ● OLIVETTI ● AM ● FOTORECORD ● ORTOLANI ●

SANSOVINO ● I MARKUS ● B R HUGO BOSS/TOMMY HILFIGER ● DEGANI ● AB IF TRE ERRE ●

Gran Caﬀè Quadri

Caﬀè Lavena

GIOIELLERIA SAN MARCO ●

BONCOMPAGNI ● BONCOMPAGNI VALERIA ● AD ●

Piazzetta dei Leoncini

Piazza San Marco

CAL

Caﬀe' Aurora

● CENEDESE ● TREVISAN ● BRIC'S ● ROLEX ● TREVISAN R.S. ● PANERAI

Caﬀè Florian

IS N MO

● GALLERIA RAVAGNAN ● ROBERTO COIN ● OFFICINA BERNARDI ● G. PAGAN ● SAN MARCO 55

● PA U ●

S IO

A DA S

● VISCONTI ORLANDINI ● ARCADIA ● BOLDRIN ● LEO PIZZO ● ROBERTO BRAVO ● ZORZI ● SALVADORI ● MARTINUZZI ● NARDI ● ZORZI

E AD R T EC R E EGO L I O C O R● B ICE S C O I V SOL BIB SEO ● FA LY MU CEN

● STONE ISLAND

L‘A S LE L A R G A D E

SA LI

MP HA GC O N DA N ● LG IO R È ● IR ES ●D L

AUDEMARS PALAZZO ● PIGUET DUCALE ● FABRIS AUDEMARS ● TOKATZIAN ● SERENDIPITY ● BEVILACQUA

Gran Caﬀe' Chioggia

SUV-VENETIAN ● BEADS

VESCO With its sleek black body and blood-red tip, Vesco’s recycledgraphite Key of Venice pencil embodies elegance and impeccable performance, and is designed to hold enough graphite to draw a 45-kilometre-long line. If you find yourself pining for something more, the family-run jewellery brand also offers handmade 18carat gold pieces studded with precious stones such as diamonds, rubies and sapphires. ra Vesco, Piazza San Marco, San Marco 75-76, 30124 Venice, +39 041 520 3853

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Café

Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

Dedicated to every women, every man, who loves...

VENEZIA Piazza San Marco 67 VENEZIA Cannaregio 2342 VICENZA ContrĂ Porti 2

salvadori-venezia.com/blog

70 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Mercerie di San Salvador, Capitello, San Zulian & dell’Orologio A LV AD

A MI R 'S CC SI K E ET BE IS OC CR RE TIM L I ● IN OOT A M SE ● F EG IA ● L OR T ● O C CA VI ALL PI ● ● G K I KOOX RO TE ● GE AD LL ● QU PI O ●

L’O

TW I C N A RP U L I N A M A L SE A N C A LOV T ● TO MIC E ● TA V VA E NI ● GL EN ● IA EZ PI IA ET ● GU R T A B A T E RB A L L D I D LY G B INI E ● P I O G G N I ●● NK I O ● ●

MATERIALMENTE VENEZIA ● FROLLO ● LUIGI FUSARO ●

● MACRÌ

BUCCELLATI ●

● MAX MARA

● BATA

MANDARINA DUCK ● POLLINI ● ROVOLETTO ●

OG IO

● PELLETTERIA

’OR EL

IE D

A LV AD

● EMILIO CECCATO ● GUCCI ● VIVICI TROLL BEADS ● ● OTTICA VENEZIANA VERONESE ● ● SOLARIS COLLECTION ● CARGASACCHI LACOSTE ● PANDORA ●

I●

ETT

● MATTIUZZI ● CROMIA

● IL CORALLO ● ROMA 1947

MARELLA●

●S WA ● RO

CA BE RL OT TO R O F R AT SS ● ET ELLI LA TI ● ● P MA ER IL B LA X& AU ● FU CO LD ●P RL ’O R ● A● MA AND IE N X TE MA ORA ● RA SO ● MA GN ID R IN ’O R AR GR O● CA IN A ● D OSS MP LD E V P O IN ER I EN IS E T MA ● C● ●S WA TCH ●P ● C ENNY AL Z E B L AC DO K N IA

L LO

S T IA

723 ● M E FABRIS RICAMI ● R C LA PARIGINA ● E R BIALETTI ● I E DANIEL WELLINGTON ● S A LA PARIGINA ● N ASTOLFO ● Z U LIBER ● L I A BURATO ● N R. TIOZZO ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

T FONDACO ● DEI TEDESCHI

● ● L ● E UN ● G XC A ● C UI LU CR ● LY A M D O R S I V E A Z ● C R IL E E IO ● M OC A L A NI NI OT ● O U R CI TI ● S TT A NE CA ● A AV I C N O L L ● SA TES E M A F IN E ● DE N E T Y OT V E ● L E SI M A A BA OG NI L I DA G U R G R A CE VI F A CO FI AN A L A VE A BR FE TR CO I S RR ID NT UZ ' AR I ZI TE

S. S

Piazzetta ● SPAZIO A dei Leoni ● MORELLATO ● MURANO IN VENICE

HUMILIS Founded in the Umbrian city of Assisi, Humilis creates gold and silver rings, pendants, charms, bracelets and brooches in a variety of spiritual designs. The brand draws on Made in Italy craftsmanship and the wooden boxes in which the stunning creations are displayed are made by a local carpenter from Perugia. If you’re seeking a quintessential piece of jewellery from the brand, the Tau rings are an essential purchase. Marked with a T motif, the last letter of the Hebrew alphabet, the rings are an expression of love, peace and joy. sm Humilis, Ponte Vecchio 51R, 50125 Florence, +39 347 548 5372, humilis.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 75

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

S H O P | 71

● Murano TA EN AM ND FO

VETRERIA ARTISTICA LA FENICE ●

SIGNORETTO LAMPADARI ●

IDEA MURANO ●

MAZZEGA GLASS FACTORY ● MARCHETTI MARIA ● CAMPAGNOL E SALVADORE ● PESCE PESCE ● FIORE FIORE ● COLLELLI & OTTERDAHL ●

RA I FO ND AM EN

O AN

ANTICA VETRERIA ● GIOIELLI R.T. MURANO ● NEROPACO ● VETRI D'ARTE RAVANELLO ● VENINI ●

TA M

IP NC SA MO RA

● FERRO VETRO ● APA GIOIELLI ● F.LLI MORETTI ● MOSAICI DONÀ MURANO ● SEGUSO VIRO ● COSE COSÌ ● MIRIAM ● LAMBERTI RAFFAELLA ● VETRI G. BASTIANELLO ● MORI SNC

ARTIZ ● SOFFIO DI VETRO ● EFFE DUE MURANO ● PICCOLI PENSIERI ● DOMUS VETRI D’ARTE ●

FO ND AM EN TA DE IV ET

● L'ARTE MURANESE ● F & M BALLARIN ● M. CAVAGNIS OROVETRO ● ● NASON MORETTI MURANO IL VETRO DI FUGA ● ● ORIGINAL MURANO SCHIAVON MURANO ● ● BOTTEGA DEL VETRO CESARE TOFFOLO ● ● ARTIGIANATO VENEZIANO LUCEVETRO ● ● VETROMANIA BAROVIER & TOSO ● ● ART BIJOUX GIAMPAOLO NASON VETRI ARTISTICI ● ● ANDREA 2000 FRANCO SCHIAVON GALLERY ● ● CARLO MORETTI VETRERIA COLONNA ● ● C&G CESARE SENT ● ● LINEA MURANO ART SCHIAVON ● ● FORNACE GINO MAZZUCCATO CAM ● ● VETRERIA ARTISTICA GRITTI

EMPRESA

PHOTO: GIORGIO GUASTELLA

Italian fashion label Empresa was founded in Rome in 1999 and now has stores across the country as well as a branch in Miami. Offering menswear, womenswear and fragrances, the brand has carved out a niche for itself with refined urban style fans. Menswear highlights include Empresa’s selection of leather outerwear for the autumn/winter season, while women will appreciate the selection of leather boots on offer – the perfect footwear for your Italian trip. Be sure to explore the extensive fragrance range – the Pure Neruà scent is breathtaking. sm Empresa, Calle dei Fuseri, San Marco 4280, 30124 Venice, +39 041 099 3507, empresa.it

● ACQUA DI FIESOLE ● CELLERINI

● MOMONI

VIA ROMA

MONCLER ●

APPLE ●

VIA PEL LICCERIA

TWIN SET ●

VIA CALIMALA BORSALINO ● TRY ME ● BRANDY MELVILLE ● IXOS ● MONTGOMERY ●

● EREDI CHIARINI

● ALPHA STUDIO FARMACIA ● SS.ANNUNZIATA

QUERCIOLI E ● LUCHERINI

VIA MONALDA

V I A D E ' TO R N A B U O N I

BO NP OI

NT ●

ELL

I●

ION

FALCONERI ●

● PATRIZIA PEPE

N OV

A● Z ZUR I AQ UA A TO R E L L T IC IE L D ● O T H N A S H F N IC H IN I ● JO S U N TA A ● AS

AN N ●

SI ● SA S R E A N DA ● AND IA ● IO B STI L IF IC G IU

ETH

ER M M U ST ER O ●

SE N TI

Place Of Interest

AELEONORE ●

● CCI ● GU CO S ● DEN MAD OSE ONE EVE B A RC R E T ● ● ST LDEN GO S E M AT ● ● GO GGI ● DA O B E ● D 'S M A R IO CO S T ● L A KO E R IA CE ● FUM ● P INO S E GRA P RO ● K A R T H FA C IL A D● MAN ORL ● NO SSI . O G W IE S ● R T IN ● O .MR T O R IA B H U N IVA B A N C E ● ● SA A ● D B A L ID G E R N E WU T T E R U IG I ● E ID E L ● G IE R S ● P INU R TI E ARO NA S TO N N YO F U S AVA IA O S ● ES CO IQ O ● H ● TI E M P TO IR D NTE ETR B IS O ● CO T IA N R ● IL ● K A EYEWEA ● O P R M O N E TA I● R IN ● S EP S T O R E E L L I C H IA I● ● W IG I B O R R N N I M ID A L ● G IA ● LU L L I L IE RE AME HI ● ● VA R O S E N E C ● L E S E TA ROC L IA L A S S I ● ● IN IS T R I C E G IU N T E L A LY ● ● JJ . N T R O LU MAN IT E ● R OR ● CO E AU HME SUT T TO R E A CAS CK S IT B ● DU PET RT NHEA ● BE T● FON

GAR

TEL CO L

MAR

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Featured In This Issue

Global Blue Retailer

O VA

A NU

VIGN

ELL A

VIA D

● PAUL & SHARK

P.29

V I A D E ' TO R N A B U O N I

SOTF● DIOR ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO DAMIANI ● ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO P.24 ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Piazza della Repubblica LOUIS ● VUITTON

BURBERRY ● OMEGA ●

CARTIER ● BOTTEGA VENETA ●

I A P O R TA R O S ● ● ● SA ● ● A L PA R I B ● A ● ● B B M M E S M G ● ● ● ● ● ● Z A A L E R PA O W R N P E I S S A Z O T N O L E L I S U O A S AR S E T VA A M P E ON Z A TIN I ● DIG NC A F LON A DO I NI OW O SI RR O VO & I A E R I I TÀ N V GA R IN LT E T IA DELLE I AI TER TI ME MUSEO R E VALENTINO ●

AMERICAN VINTAGE ● DOLCE & GABBANA ●

FRATELLI COPPINI ● E OL

PRINCIPE DI FIRENZE ●

TIFFANY & CO ●

VI A DE’ VECCHIETTI

MONTBLANC ● GIANFRANCO LOTTI ● PRADA ● KENZO ● SAINT LAURENT ●

LUISA SPAGNOLI ● MONNALISA ● LA PERLA ● UGO POGGI ● THE MERCHANT OF VENICE ● ERMANNO SCERVINO ●

PRADA ●

● TOD’S CMP ●

VIA

HOGAN ●

4 P.7 PELLICCERIA ● ROMANELLI ● SAINT LAURENT ● FENDI ● LORO PIANA LOUIS ● VUITTON ● MUSEO DELLE CIPRIE ● CHOPARD ● CÉLINE ● PUCCI DOLCE & GABBANA ● JUNIOR ● RASPINI

GUCCI ● ANNE FONTAINE ●

VIA D

PARENTI ●

● FLORENCE

O VA

A NU

IGN LA V

POMELLATO ●

STROZZI PALAZZO VIA DEGLI STROZZI CONTE OF GIORGIO ARMANI ● DR VRANJES FIRENZE ● BULGARI ● COS ●

OTTO D'AME ●

● LOCMAN ITALY ● CASADEI ● FANI GIOIELLI ● MAX MARA

PA AS

OFFICINA DEI TORNABUONI ● GUALTIERO ● VERSACE ●

LL DE VIA

● MICHELE NEGRI

P.75

VIA DE’ PECORI ● TOMMY HILFIGER

HERMÈS ● ● LORETTA CAPONI ISABEL MARANT ●

● ● BIS ● C L ACOT K M T ● AN O IFI A L G R RI CI IS A DI O A FI . M I RE A N TT ZE E I

72 | I TA LY G U I D E

FLORENCE

● Via de’ Tornabuoni, Via degli Strozzi & Via Porta Rossa ATELIER EME’ ● SEGUSO ARCHIMEDE ● DEGAIA ●

● Via della Vigna Nuova

S H O P | 73

● Via Roma & Via Calimala ● Via dei Calzaiuoli SELECTED STORES IN RINASCENTE:

MAURO ● VOLPONI

GUESS ●

UPDATED ● ● CLARKS

● CORNELIANI ● SANDRO ● LIU JO VIA DEI LAMBERTI ● LIU JO ● PUMA

V I A PO RTA ROSSA

VIA DEGLI SPEZIALI GOLDEN POINT ● CHANEL ● ACQUA DELL'ELBA ● SWAROVSKI ● REBECCA ● ATHLETIC WORD ● FALCONERI ● PULL LOVE ● TEZENIS ● V I A D E I TAV O L I N I

VIA DEI CALZ A IU O LI

● ZARA

VIA DEI TOSINGHI MIGONE ● JAKED ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ● DISNEY ●

PROFUMERIA ALINE ●

VIA CALIMALA

GEOX ● PIQUADRO ● TWIN SET ●

VIA DEGLI SPEZIALI ● MOLESKINE

VIA DEI CALZAIUOLI

GOLF ● CK UDERWEAR ● ZARA ●

LEVI’S ●

MORESCHI ● DODO ● GUYA ● ROY ROGERS ●

DIESEL ●

Rinascente

Piazza della Repubblica

VIA CALIMALA

VIA PELLICCERIA

COACH ●

● NINETIES

JO MALONE ●

● HARD ROCK CAFE

PRATESI ● MAX & CO ●

VIA DEI CALZAIUOLI

MASSIMO DUTTI ●

● GUCCI ● PINKO ● MAJE ● MISS SIXTY NI RMA IO A POR ● E M ● ELISABETTA FRANCHI VIA DEI TOSINGHI ● SANDRO ● MIU MIU ● MARNI ● MICHAEL KORS

VIA ROMA

PRADA ● LUISA VIA ROMA ● LONGCHAMP ● SISLEY ● STELLA MCARTNEY ●

INTIMISSIMI ● RICAMI VERONICA ●

Zadig & Voltaire

P.31

Piazza del Duomo

ARMANDO POGGI ●

Piazza di San Giovanni

NASHI ARGAN ●

VIA DEI LA M B ERTI CRAVATTIFICIO FIRENZE ● RE NERO ● L’OCCITANE ● CARPISA ● VIA P O RTA ROSSA FARMACIA MOLTENI ● CORSANI ● ATE SETA ● FOSSIL ● CHANEL ●

● MARIELLA INNOCENTI ● BRACCIALINI

RISTORANTE TRATTORIA ANGIOLINO Located in Florence’s Oltrarno district, Ristorante Trattoria Angiolino evokes the nostalgia of a traditional tavern in the city with its authentic interior design and menu of classic Tuscan dishes. es Ristorante Trattoria Angiolino, Via Santo Spirito 36, 50125 Florence, +39 055 239 8976, casatrattoria.com

globalblue.com

● ENRICO VERITÀ ● TIM ● BATA VIA DELLE OCHE ● MIA BAG ● VICTORIA'S SECRET ● FIRENZE PRATESI ● STROILI ORO

● WYCON ● OROLOGERIA R MARRETTI ● KIKO ● BENHHEART ● YAMAMAY VIA DEL CORSO ● CALZEDONIA ● WOLFORD ● GUERCIOLI ● PYLONES ● COIN

● STEFANEL ● CAMICISSIMA ● LEATHER FACTORY ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ● COCCINELLE ● NARA CAMICIE ● PRATESI ● SOLARIS MALEDETTI ● RE NERO TOSCANI ● ● GUIDORENI VI A DELL A C O N DOT TA ● FURLA ● GUTTERIDGE

Piazza della Signoria

74 | I TA LY G U I D E

CLAMORI A statement bag is a great investment on a trip to Italy and Clamori’s aged-leather styles are a captivating choice. This popular family business has been creating bags since 1955, and its Florence flagship opened in 1999. The boxy styles on offer here come in a variety of colours and some of our favourite options have a retro feel, with bamboo handles and fastening details. The impeccably made bags utilise only the finest materials, so a purchase from Clamori is guaranteed to last a lifetime. sm Clamori, Via Porta Rossa 72R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 280004, facebook.com/clamoridifirenze FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

PIA Z Z

DAN JOHN ●

Piazza di San Giovanni

OFFICINE PANERAI ●

UOMO

VI ER

IS DE A

ELL A RT

VIA D

EI M

AN OS

B ORG

TORRINI ●

GAME 7 ATHLETICS ●

RASPINI ●

LEATHER FLORENCE ●

PROFUMERIA ALINE ● DE SI I ● SWATCH ●

ERMINI ●

GILARDINI ●

PRIMA DONNA ●

VIA CERRETANI

● TRENCH

● INFINITY

ENZ

LO R

DIXIE ●

MONTI ● SOUVENIR OF FLORENCE ● IL PAPIRO ● L'ANTICA CANTINA DEL CHIANTI ● TORNABUONI ● ITAL PEL ● TRE ANGELI SOUVENIR ● FAVILLI ● LINDT MAITRE CHOCOLATIER ● APOSTOLATO LITURGICO ● AROMI FIRENZE ●

● Piazza del Duomo & Via del Corso

● FLAVIO PELLETTERIE ● LIBRERIA SAN PAOLO FLAVIO PELLETTERIE ● S. M. DEL FIORE

Piazza del Duomo

PATRIZIA PEPE ●

V I A D E L P RO CO N S O LO

● ● ● ●

DIVA SHOES LE VANITÀ FOTO LOCCHI ERBOLARIO

Non-Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest

TIURAI ●

Department Store

PELUSO ●

Global Blue Retailer

VIA DEL CORSO ● GLAMOUR ● JJ PELLETTERIA PELLETTERIA DEL ● CORSO ● PARAGON ● GALLERIA DEL CHIANTI ● DIVA SHOES ● ANGELO ROMANO ● DAVID 2 ● PIERO PULITI ● KIEHL'S ● FABRIANO VI A D EI CERCHI ● COIN ● BRASCHI ● THE FLEXX ● TIMBERLAND ● CLARISSA BIGIOTTERIA

VI A D EI CALZAIUO LI

VIA ORSANMIC HELE

● ART STORE ● EMPORIO ITALIANO FIRENZE ● RAFFAELLO

VIA DELLE OCHE

ANTICA CUOIERIA ● DIXIE ● SUPER DRY ● AL VIOLA ● NERO GIARDINI ● YAMAMAY ● 30 FT ●

VIA CALIMALA

Piazza della Repubblica

PIAZZ A DEL DUOM O ● LOLITA MILANO PIUMINI DANESI AVIREX ● ● FLORENCE’S NEW TRY ME ● ● KODAK FILM ● INTINI & CELLERINI ERBARIO TOSCANO ●

VIA ROMA VIA DEI TOSINGHI

PAOLO PENKO ●

● ACQUA DELL' ELBA GUIDORENI ●

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 75

● Via Por Santa Maria & Ponte Vecchio H&

OTTICA ● BONGI ● GUYA HUGO ● BOSS

MA ● M R IN A S T IL IT ● ISO N E A R E ● D LAN D IV AS AN ● C NAM HOE AM AR S M IL IA LI

VIA

● SP L A A DA VIA V ● A CC H C A Z E TA ER EC MP ● ● BE CIA IDO SE ER ● NE ● GU RE GA N T E● NI ● ERO TO N LL O CO ER GI TT BO I ● I A A I C R TT LU MA A● DI EG S N C H I HIA A VE MA DEL ● BO SA LL R I N TA RG I● C ● A G RTU BR DA C A R OS FO AN AL V ● DI AN CH ID TI A M A DY & P R A N T ● A I A MP PO S T O G O L N DA R M E LV T E S I ● IO ● N DE D & IN ● IL LI S ● FL A DU LE ● GU IGU OR AL ES EN CK ● S C GU ● E● FA TT LA ER IDG I GU ● TA E ● PA IDO RE VIA F● ND LAM RE ● LU OR SA N ER NI BE NG A● O O R RT T T AR UG OR TIC ES NO OP IA CA ● DE I CC A ● RO TE GL S IN S SI ● I● I AC AM MA SUT CIA ● IT EN RT AT L O I E ● OL ES GH ● UCA LLI SCA I ET L ER N G UC A● I AR IA IUST ● DI NO I LO & G S. V TH MB A H E AR P GO R . ER A GGI DI A U O N T L D E FA L R D I ● D E E V N R L AC ● ● M A EC I I T. R R S CHI VER ● IST S . P I G UO 1 4 ● OR ● TO ● I GO R ET OL LD ● D B T H E E . S . VA R I S I ● D E LU R I D G O FA L G G ● O R IA M A N D R NG G E L D S L AC I ● AR ● P E F IC N T E E A M S GA MI I ● E T LL NO ER H ● ● O N T E R IA D DE C Y● DA E . ● A L L A V ECC E L GL GP N T FA IA H IO FR I ● RC U. E C A N TO FR AT GH RD NI HIB A E T ● L E G EL L R IN O G. BE U LI P I PE RN SOL LDE BISC ARDI I ● R IC C UZ AR ID G N S ION ● ● Z I D O O L I LV I ● N I C I TO AN D 1 ER ● ASS M VA C TIC 8K ● CH OR E A SI ● ARL ET TI T● H C N ER I TÀ ● A S S O P IC R O L ON FICE I FR ● P CO R I A A N C ● O N T E T TI CINI E X NS SO IA LV E E T V EC C A TA N L D I ● TO FR ● A L S S E T I N ●● R I C H IO AT FR T C M ● BO D IA T EL P. F I L L I L I A N N OZ E R I ● RG MO ● P A OS ER ELL ● ND ● G . B E L L AC AN UZ I ● S ZI J ● THE LLIN I ● G U ACO ID O ● U - BO GOLD I P H A RE O E UM T ● NB NI RID ● ● FORM ILIS S .A GE .D .A IG L I P.70 C H P IN A E GO ANN PA L A Z R T ● LD A M ● RR ZI AR MA ● I IA DO S E B .D 'S ● VA I TA B O T C C O E L CU ●L LIA T EG ● O IO NA A FF ● T A PEL ● IC IN LE SH E● IR T GA LLE RY

N AR DI CH I & ● BI AN IN I AC CI AL ● BR

BR ID GE ● TH E

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

globalblue.com

PHOTO: MATTEO OLTRABELLA

Acqua di Fiesole founder Ilaria Raffaelli has honed her skills over a 20-year career. The brand’s store in Florence offers a range of beautiful scents. sm Acqua di Fiesole, Via del Sole 6-8R, 50100 Florence, +39 055 493 1092, acquadifiesole.it

ACQUA DI FIESOLE

NT AM

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

2. Claim

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your Tax Free Forms stamped before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

Spend a minimum of €154.95 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

91 /

At the point of departure Please follow the instructions at the airport. Italy’s main airports (Rome Fiumicino T3, Milan Malpensa T1, Florence Peretola, Venice Marco Polo): Items in check-in luggage Go to a Global Blue Refund Office or kiosk for electronic validation and refund BEFORE check-in. Items in hand luggage Go to a Global Blue Refund Office or Customs AFTER security control for electronic validation and refund.

How to get your tax refund At the store Request a Tax Free Form. Please note: when completing the Tax Free Form, retailers may ask you for the information below, due to the new Otello 2.0 legislation. • First name • Surname • Country of residence • Date of birth • Identity document • Passport number* • Passport issuing country *Swiss customers can present an identity card instead of a passport If you do not provide the information above, you will not be able to obtain a Tax Free Form. globalblue.com

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Refund Office Details: Milan Malpensa Airport Terminal 1, Departures, Check-In Area 12 (second floor) Terminal 1, Area A, Schengen, after Security Control (first floor) Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Milan Linate Airport Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Downtown Milan Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer service), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan Rome Fiumicino Airport Terminal 3, Departures, Gate E (near Info Desk after security control) Terminal 3, Departures, after Check-In Desk 326 Downtown Rome Rinascente( first floor next to customer service), Via del Tritone 61, 00187 Rome Forexchange Maccorp, Via del Caravita 6, 00186 Rome Forexchange Maccorp Pantheon, Piazza della Rotonda 68B, 00187 Rome Forexchange Maccorp Trevi, globalblue.com

Via del Lavatore 88A, 00187 Rome Florence Peretola Airport Departures Downtown Florence Forexchange Maccorp, Via Por Santa Maria 3R, 50122 Florence Interchange, Via Por Santa Maria 35R, 50122 Florence Venice Marco Polo (Tessera) Airport Departures, Downtown Venice Forexchange Maccorp, Campo San Bartolomeo, San Marco 5313, 30124 Venice Ital Travel, Calle dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ascensione, San Marco 72B, 30124 Venice Yex Change, Piazza San Marco, San Marco 146, 30124 Venice Naples Capodichino Airport Alisud , Terminal 1, Check- In Forexchange Maccorp, Terminal 1, Boarding Area Downtown Ischia Point Ru , Via Antonio de Luca 101, 80077 Ischia

TRANSLATIONS

中文翻译

36: MONOGRAM MANIA 老花设计再掀热潮各大奢侈品牌纷纷重温过去几十年盛行的标志热潮，并为本季造型增添一抹令人愉悦的讽刺意味与幽默感，Rebecca Rhys- Evans报道标志可以说是一家品牌经久不变的脸面，甚至比服装本身更能体现品牌的特点。2019年秋冬季，标志图案与字母印花获得了各大奢侈品牌设计师几乎前所未有的追捧，也是本季米兰时装周秀场上最引人注目的趋势之一。Aigner 的创意总监 Christian Beck先生认为，一些品牌采取了不那么固守成规的方式，设计出“ 可以用做创意基础、每一季视觉效果都各不相同的标志。” “ 标志热”发源于上世纪 80年代对奢华夸张的热衷，90年代美国经济腾飞后开始大行其道；当年范思哲（ Versace）、Moschino、路易威

上图：Iris Apfel为Aigner 2019秋冬拍摄的广告

登（ Louis Vuitton）和迪奥（ Dior）等品牌都推出了许多饰有交织字母的 “ It”手袋、T恤、针织衫和流光溢彩的黄金珠宝，成为这一潮流的代名词。顾客纷纷选择饰有独特图案和标志的服装来彰显自己的身份与财富，这也给各大品牌带来了一个独一无二的机会，在世界各地提升曝光率、推广自家作品。二十年过后，全球性经济衰退余波未了，极简主义成为了关键词。以 Celine设计师 Phoebe Philo为代表推崇的 “ normcore”（性冷淡风）审美使低调的着装风格成为主流，再加上一种实用、别致而极具感染力的时尚感 — — 夸张的廓形和质地 — — 与那些把品牌名称放在醒目位置的针织衫形成鲜明对比。然而，正当我们认为时装应该舍弃品牌标志，标志是一种过时的东西，各大品牌却开始重构这一趋势。2016年，Vetements推出

了一款印有 DHL快递公司标志的 T 恤，上演了本世纪最佳反时尚壮举。通过展示另一家公司的标志，品牌不仅引发了一场关于品牌塑造的讨论，还助推了 Supreme及 Palace等街头潮牌凭借饰有标识的简约服饰打入奢侈品市场。古驰（ Gucci）将交织字母的运用延展到了 “ It”手袋 Dionysus之外。本季，著名的 GG标志以金线缝制在袜子上，以羊毛缝制在花呢西装上，或装饰在运动鞋的两侧。创意总监 Alessandro Michele展示出了对奢侈时尚的戏谑态度，为该品牌的标志增添了几抹涂鸦风，让人难以想象这些服饰居然出自古驰。“ 我迫不及待地想在标志上动手脚，这感觉就像是在《蒙娜丽莎》上画画。双 G就像是一个所有人都知道的象形符号，而我要用它来给我的设计锦上添花。”他如是说道。在 Michele创举的影响下，如今设计师们开始用充满奇趣的方式演绎交织字母。他开启了奢侈时尚界的新一波标志热潮，并引领了一股潮流，让人们开始追捧那些看上去亦真亦假的、诙谐好玩的正品服饰。眼下，许多品牌正在重新塑造自身形象。在已故的卡尔·拉格斐（ Karl Lagerfeld）的最后一个系列中，Fendi重新设计了该品牌著名的 F 标志，从而创造了一种更俏皮的街头范儿；而在 2019年秋冬季，该品牌展现出了截然不同的两面。结构分明的 70年代风格背带裙、百褶裙、饰有蝴蝶结的上衣和笔挺的立领衬衫均以别致的米黄色为主，PVC皮革上偶尔点缀些许明亮色块。品牌标志在系列中大放异彩，不透明白色裤袜和高领上衣都饰有优雅的传统斜体双 F交织字母。不过，Fendi的配饰、男装和全新 FF胶囊系列却让我们看到了该品牌街头风的一面。从雨衣到手袋、运动服、渔夫帽再到鞋履，每一件作品上都饰有棕褐色的老花设计。该品牌

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打趣了一番90年代末和21世纪初时尚界的审美观念，并以讽刺的方式回顾那个年代浮夸低俗的穿衣风格。在新任创意总监Riccardo Tisci 的引领下，博柏利（Burberry）也对其品牌形象做出了一些充满争议的改变。Tisci 和知名平面设计师 Peter Saville携手，深入研究品牌旧作档案，创作出全新的老花图案TB，灵感源自该品牌创始人Thomas Burberry的名字缩写。这对搭档还重新设计了品牌标志，舍弃了自1901年沿用至今的策马骑士徽标和博多尼字体，取而代之以一种大胆醒目的无衬线字体，营造出更加现代的感觉。德国品牌 Aigner在米兰发布2019 年秋冬系列，强调了品牌标志在现代时尚界的地位，其手法更挑战了品牌标志不可触碰的传统观念。“现代运动让我们的设计更加灵活自由，” Beck先生说道。Aigner 运动风的腰包、饰有黑褐两色标志的可拆卸包带和饰有涂染花卉的老花腰包都体现了这种趋势。这一女性化的改进与古驰的Dionysus老花手袋有异曲同工之妙，通过涂鸦、亮片徽章和花卉图案，在最近的几个季度中让该品牌的80年代经典标志重焕新生。本季，Aigner与时尚偶像 Iris Apfel合作打造了一个成衣系列，亮点包括一款饰有该品牌标志性棕色 A字母印花的羊毛夹克。无论是古驰的GG、香奈儿的双C 还是路易威登的LV标箱包，对标志和品牌形象的迷恋都不是什么新鲜事儿。然而在2019年秋冬季，越来越多的品牌都对这种旧趋势采用了新玩法：古驰、Fendi、Max Mara 和Aigner在米兰展示了全新自我，博柏利也在伦敦展现了新生造型。这是不是一个永不会衰退的趋势？从历史的角度来说，或许并不是；不过，要是没有这些或讽或寓的元素，时尚界就太一本正经了。如果要问眼下的时尚界最缺什么，幽默感首当其冲。

42: DYNAMIC DUOS 时尚大牌新势力为了保持新鲜面貌、紧贴潮流趋势，开拓创新的高级时尚品牌纷纷推出风格大胆、锐意创新的副线系列。Ginger Rose Clark为您介绍三大业界典范在过去的几个季度中，不少备受瞩目的奢侈品牌都开始涉足新的领域。2018/ 19年秋冬季大秀上，普拉达（ Prada）重新推出了首创于 1997 年的 Prada Linea Rossa运动装系列；2019年 1月，罗意威（ Loewe）发布了 Eye/ Loewe/ Nature系列；Jil Sander也在 2019/ 20年秋冬季推出了全新的 Jil Sander+系列。直到十年前，许多品牌都还十分青睐能展现更年轻造型、价格更亲民的副线系列。然而，在一场席卷整个时尚界的简约化浪潮中，包括 Versus Versace、Burberry London和杜嘉班纳（ Dolce & Gabbana）D& G在内的许多副线系列就此销声匿迹。如今，我们正在见证一种全新手法，许多高端品牌都在为它们的产品赋予新的面貌，重新定义“副线系列 ”的概念。这些新项目的核心共同点是一种以设计为导向的理念。Prada Linea Rossa和 Jil Sander+ 都推出了大体上男女皆宜的系列服饰，均强调简约设计和舒适感。Prada Linea Rossa 运动装用干净优雅的廓形顺应当下重温 90年代的时尚潮流，红色横条搭配白色 Prada字样的 90年代经典标志就是这一趋势的缩影。Jil Sander+ 的标志同样反映了该品牌的卓见，就在 Jil Sander品牌名后简单添加一个加号。该标志不仅体现了这家奢侈品牌典型的极简主义审美，也表明了其开发联名系列的方向。Jil Sander+ 的首个系列即与粘合胶化面料专业

上图: Prada Linea Rossa

品牌 Mackintosh携手，充分利用两家品牌的传统底蕴、专业技术和精湛工艺，设计出融合二者优势的外套作品。另一家超凡工艺的推崇者罗意威也创立了一个新的副线品牌，以延展和滋养该品牌对精良做工的热爱。主打功能性的 Eye/ Loewe/ Nature男士系列在日本生产，彰显了该品牌的高级时尚身份，并结合了以实用主义为主导的设计理念。所有三条副线均体现了各自品牌的风格气质与审美理念，而对优质设计与生产方法的注重则意味着，它们的价格点可以与主线系列不相上下。如今，健康成为世界各地消费者关注的一大重点，各大奢侈品牌也开始回应顾客的种种渴求，照顾到度假休闲和锻炼健身的各种生活状态。普拉达的 Prada Linea Rossa系列用袜子、渔夫帽和安全夹克等单品涉足运动休闲潮。该系列还精心

选择经销商，包括顶级街头服饰专门店 Highsnobiety。Prada Linea Rossa 在运动服领域稳扎稳打，Jil Sander+ 则以“为了城市之外的生活”作为自身定位，以大自然为主要灵感源泉，映衬出创意总监 Lucie Meier 和 Luke Meier对徒步、滑雪和登山等户外运动的热爱。无独有偶，Eye/ Loewe/ Nature被描述为一个“受乌托邦式大自然启发的男装系列 ”。该品牌不仅为希望与自然紧密相连的人打造装备，而且以创造一个更好的世界为宗旨；Eye/ Loewe/ Nature在 2019年每售出一件服装，就将捐出 15欧元用于抵制塑料污染。这三家品牌都致力于为跑步、露营和徒步等活动打造功能性服装。生产运动服和户外装备需要精通专业技术。各大奢侈品牌愈发喜欢使用 “ 高科技 ”、“性能驱动 ”、“ 机能增强”等极具市场吸引力的词汇，来定义它们的新系列，并格外注重科技面料和功能性面料。Eye/ Loewe/ Nature用高级帆布做手袋，用回收材料做套头毛衣，用防水尼龙做派克大衣。Prada Linea Rossa应用了纺织行业的最新技术，包括纳米面料、Gore-Tex Pro防水微纤维和 PrimaLoft垫料。Jil Sander+系列中有许多日本制造的丹宁服装、北极羽绒夹克、可压缩轻便外套和结实耐穿的鞋履。这些功能性面料和外套设计领域的创新技术，无不体现着外形与功能的巧妙结合。这些奢侈品牌以大自然和体育运动为出发点，但显然它们也热切想要巩固在高级时尚领域的根基，并为都市生活适时调整。Eye/ Loewe/ Nature致力于让服装在日常通勤中和更苛刻的环境里展现优良性能，例如该系列手袋的审美风格就与人们骑车上班时背的包包十分相似。每一条副线都与自家品牌一脉相承：Jil Sander+深受大自然启发的系列作

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品和 Jil Sander主线作品有着同样简约而奢华的审美；而 Prada Linea Rossa在米兰时装周上的首秀则无可争辩地将这个运动装系列与高级时尚紧密联系在一起。为了在 21世纪巩固根基，传统的奢侈时尚品牌纷纷推出全新的副线系列，这证明他们深知如何适应时代、跟进潮流、向前跃进。通过充满技术特色、通常专为户外运动设计的作品，各大品牌回应了顾客对冒险的憧憬、对置身自然的渴求与突破身体极限的欲望。这些全新副线品牌所提供的，不仅是世界顶级的服装，更是对我们时代的深切反思。

48: BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS 风华正茂新一代意大利设计师正在撕毁经典风格的规则书，并将一种趣味感重新注入时尚行业，L u c i n d a Tu r n e r 带您了解当您想到典型的意大利时装，浮现在脑海中的或许是典雅的中性配色、大量的黑色以及干净利落的剪裁。许多人不远万里来意大利，就为物色能展示出这种经典形象的衣物；不过，千禧一代却想在这个世界上最时尚的国家之一挖掘下一个明星作品。意大利的设计新星们也并没有让人失望：在这个充满了严肃性与不确定性的世界里，新一代意大利设计师却将趣味、浮华和炫彩提升到重要位置。 The At t ico由一对在时尚界耕耘多年的好友 Giorgia Tordini 和 Gilda A mbrosio 创立于2016 年，很快就成为米兰时装周上最受期待的品牌之一。Tordini 和 A mbrosio 都是米兰最前卫的意见领袖，因此该品牌注定要成为时髦的代名词。The At t ico 最

初深受上世纪 20 年代风格的复古长袍启发，如今致力于打造能在派对上占尽风头的服装，其 2019/ 20 年秋冬季系列大量运用了金属亮片、羽毛、褶皱和 80 年代风格的金银锦缎。 “最重要的就是活得潇洒，尽可能地享受生活。”该品牌最近一次作品发布会的新闻稿如是写道。The At t ico 女性为自己的独立自主、享乐主义气质和对一切有趣事物的追求深感自豪。该品牌的作品屡屡出现在红毯上和世界各地流光溢彩的场合中，从意大利网红 Chiara Ferragni 到超模 Rosie Hunt ington -W hiteley，从好莱坞影星 Dakota Johnson 到卡戴珊家族的成员，人人都穿过。如今The At t ico 的作品陈列在意大利和世界各地最负盛名的百货商店中，这家公司主张通过着装打扮来享受乐趣，为各种场合增添纷呈精彩— —这一派思想在意大利的年轻人和最酷的潮牌当中越来越盛行。创立于2014 年的 Giuseppe di Morabito 因醒目的装饰品、鲜活的色彩和出人意料的效果而声名鹊起。该品牌并不愿墨守成规，于是在 2019/ 20 年秋冬季米兰时装周期间，用水晶吊灯装饰了一个黑暗迷人的剧场，上演了一场打破常规的表演，模特们身着各种炫目的时装，在舞台上大放异彩。和 The At t ico 很像，Giuseppe di Morabito 的新季作品也秉承着 80 年代的大胆风格，让硕大的肩垫、闪闪发光的及膝长靴和鸡尾酒短裙成为了主角。该品牌以 20 年代初期风格古怪的意大利时尚偶像 Marchesa Luisa Casat i为灵感缪斯，再一次让大胆而强势的女性成为整个系列的核心形象。该品牌极其重视自己的意大利根源和“意大利制造”标签，在作品中运用传统方法和经典意大利裁剪技艺。正是这些元素，让意大利年轻品牌脱颖而出。虽然许多意大利青年才俊的终极

目标是做出改变、瓦解经典意大利服装，但对意大利产品精湛工艺和卓绝品质的崇高敬意仍然是至关重要的。 “‘意大利制造’是一种对高品质和意大利裁缝历史的热忱。” Sara Bat taglia 说道；她的同名品牌如今将迎来第六个季度，“意大利人的血液里流淌着对审美、对时尚的热爱。”从 Bat taglia 的最新系列中可以清晰地看到，该品牌对精确裁剪和玩转时尚的结合恰到好处，十分成功。该系列考虑到了顾客一天之中的每一个时刻，挺阔的西装、金属质感的卢克勒斯鸡尾酒礼服和夸张的黄色人造毛皮外套都同等重要。 “我心目中的理想女性是成熟、优雅而强大的。” Bat taglia 评论道，“能出入会议室，英气中又不失娇柔。”大胆的配色、醒目的外形和硕大的体量是该品牌的标志性特点。虽然尚在创立之初，但截至 2019 年 6月，该品牌已在 Instagram上积聚了15 万关注者，在各界名流中和意大利时尚圈内也广受追捧。Bat taglia 以手袋品牌的身份起家，如今更添成衣系列，堪称魅力无限、创意大胆、格调非凡的米兰时尚界之缩影。从在重要会议上崭露锋芒的套装，到适合周五晚上随心舞动的性感迷你裙，该品牌真正找到了连接 21 世纪女性生活方式的办法。在一个时尚业传统底蕴如此深厚的城市创立新品牌是一件难事。从流量超高的品牌大使到社交媒体宣传，如今一家品牌可以尝试无数种方式来博出位；然而，The At t ico 、Giuseppe di Morabito 和 Sara Bat taglia 都只专注于一件事情，那就是设计令人心动的服装。这些设计师为醉心于欣赏自己、无暇顾及他人目光的优雅女性打造引人注目的服装。用 Bat taglia 的话说，这些服装是做来让人穿得开心的，是为“会笑着穿衣打扮的女性”设计的。奢华、俏皮且有趣— —这样的服装无疑会让所有衣橱魅力倍增。

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД

36: MONOGRAM MANIA ТРИУМФ МОНОГРАММЫ Модные бренды решили вернуться к логомании нулевых, украсив образы этого сезона монограммами с оттенком иронии, – рассказывает Ребекка Риз-Эванс Логотип – это главный визуальный компонент любого бренда и, можно предположить, что он воплощает идентичность лейбла даже больше, чем сама одежда. Логотипы и монограммы пользовались беспрецедентной популярностью среди дизайнеров в сезоне осеньзима 2019, и стали заметным трендом на показах Миланской недели моды в текущем сезоне. Кристиан Бек, креативный директор Aigner, полагает, что ряд брендов пытается пойти на встречу тенденциям, предлагая «логотипы, меняющие свой облик в зависимости от сезона». Свое начало логомания берет в эстетике излишества 1980х, а ее

расцвет совпадает с экономическим бумом в США 90х, когда такие бренды, как Versace, Moschino, Louis Vuitton и Dior стали ассоциироваться с it-bags, футболками, свитерами и яркими золотыми украшениями. Покупатели специально выбирали одежду, украшенную названиями и логотипами брендов, чтобы подчеркнуть свой социальный статус и финансовое состояние. Это, конечно, играло на руку брендам, которые стремились усилить свое присутствие на рынке и завоевать мировую публику. Спустя два десятилетия, после глобального кризиса, на первый план вышел минимализм. В моду пришли непринужденные, элегантные образы, нормкор Фиби Фило из Celine и функциональные, изящные и эффектные образы с гиперболичными силуэтами и подчеркнутой текстурой. Но стоило нам только подумать, что логотипы навсегда канули в лету, как бренды тут же принялись реанимировать тренд. В 2016 году Vetements решились на вопиющий шаг и выпустили футболку с логотипом международного почтового сервиса DHL. Размещение эмблемы посторонней компании не только породило дебаты о природе брендинга, но и помоголо маркам уличной моды, таким как Supreme и Palace, оказаться в премиум-сегменте рынка с простыми предметами одежды, украшенными логотипами. В Gucci использование монограмм вышло за рамки it-bags, таких как Dionysus. В этом сезоне культовая эмблема «GG» из блестящей

нити украсила фирменные носки, блейзеры и кроссовки. Креативный директор Алессандро Мишель продемонстрировал пренебрежительное отношение к роскошной моде, добавив абстрактные штрихи к логотипу бренда и придав одежде вид подделки. «Я не мог дождаться момента, когда, наконец, возьмусь за логотип; это как рисовать на Моне Лизе. Двойная буква «G» похожа на иероглиф, который всем известен, и я использую его в качестве изюминки поверх своих работ», – говорит он. Подход Микеле привел к тому, что современная монограмма стала рассматриваться с позиции забавной пародии. Он дал начало новой волне логомании в моде и тренду на оригинальные предметы одежды, выполненные в «контрафактном» стиле. Целый ряд брендов решили пересмотреть свой подход к брендингу. В последней коллекции Карла Лагерфельда Fendi переосмыслили знаменитую букву «F», придав ей спортивный стиль, вдохновленный уличной одеждой, а в сезоне осень-зима 2019 бренд демонстрирует две разные стороны. Шикарная бежевая палитра была выбрана для структурированных сарафанов в духе 70-х годов, плиссированных юбок, топов с бантиками и плотных рубашек с накрахмаленным воротником. Лишь изредка встречались цветные вставки из искусственной кожи. Особое место уделено логотипу в виде традиционной двойной буквы «F» курсивным шрифтом. Он появился на непрозрачных белых

колготках и водолазках. Но именно в аксессуарах, мужской одежде и новой капсульной коллекции «FF» начинает прослеживаться уличный стиль Fendi. Коричневая монограмма украшает практически все: от дождевиков и спортивных костюмов до сумок, головных уборов и обуви. Здесь высмеивается модная эпоха конца 90-х и начала 2000-х с присущим ей безвкусием и низкопробностью. Риккардо Тиши из Burberry также внес несколько противоречивых изменений в фирменный логотип. Работая со знаменитым графическим дизайнером Питером Савиллом, Тиши изучил архив модного дома, чтобы создать новую монограмму «TB» из инициалов основателя бренда Томаса Барберри. Дизайнеры также видоизменили фирменное лого, заменив традиционный символ рыцаря верхом на коне и шрифт Bodoni, который бренд использует с 1901 года, на жирный шрифт

Сверху: Gucci осень-зима 2019/20

без засечек, чтобы придать более современный вид. Коллекция немецкого бренда Aigner осень-зима 2019, продемонстрированная в Милане, подчеркивает важность логотипов в современной моде. Компания бросила вызов негласному правилу о том, что логотип должен оставаться неизменным. «Современные движения призывают к более либеральному подходу, который позволит легко адаптироваться к новым обстоятельствам», – считает Бек. Для Aigner результатом такого подхода стали спортивные поясные сумки с накладными ремешками, украшенные черно-коричневыми эмблемами, а также поясные сумки в цветочный узор, нанесенный поверх монограмм. Эта женственная новинка копирует стиль сумки Gucci Dionysus, которая в последние сезоны оживила классический логотип бренда 80-х годов с помощью рисунков, блесток, граффити и цветочных мотивов. В этом сезоне Aigner совместно с Айрис Апфель, одной из самых экстравагантных женщин в мире, создали коллекцию одежды, в которую среди прочего вошла куртка с подкладкой из овчины и фирменным коричневым лого в виде буквы «A». Одержимость логотипами и брендингом далеко не нова. Взять, к примеру, лого «GG» у Gucci, двойную «С» у Chanel или чемоданы Louis Vuitton, покрытые монограммой «LV». Однако в сезоне в осень-зима 2019 новый взгляд на старую тенденцию был принят на вооружение брендами как никогда раньше: Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara

PHOTO: GORUNWAY.COM

и Aigner продемонстрировали свои новые логотипы в Милане, а Burberry – свой новый образ в Лондоне. Будет ли эта тенденция длиться вечно? Если верить истории, то маловероятно. Однако сопутствующее ей чувство юмора и самоиронии уж точно не навредит порой чересчур серьезному климату модной индустрии.

42: DYNAMIC DUOS ДВОЙНАЯ ИГРА Ведущие модные бренды продолжают оставаться актуальными, запуская смелые и инновационные диффузные линии. Джинджер Роуз Кларк приводит три примера В течение последних нескольких сезонов модные бренды мирового класса осваивают новые рубежи. В рамках показа осень-зима 2018/19 Prada перезапустили линию спортивной одежды Prada Linea Rossa 1997 года; в январе 2019 вышла коллекция Loewe Eye/Loewe/Nature; а для сезона осень-зима 2018/19 бренд Jil Sander представил новую линию Jil Sander+. Еще десять лет назад многие бренды предпочитали диффузные линии с молодежными образами и более низкой ценовой категорией. Однако на волне всеобщей рационализации большинство диффузных линий было свернуто, включая Versus Versace, Burberry London и D&G от Dolce & Gabbana. Сейчас мы можем наблюдать совершенно новый подход, когда премиумбренды добавляют новые грани к своим коллекциям и переосмысляют globalblue.ru

концепцию диффузных линий. Все подобные новые проекты стараются акцентировать внимание на дизайне. И Prada Linea Rossa, и Jil Sander+ по большому счету предлагают коллекции в стиле унисекс, предпочитая простой и комфортный дизайн. Спортивная линия Prada Linea Rossa объединила актуальный тренд на моду 1990х с утонченными силуэтами, использовав классические логотипы 90х в виде красной полоски с белой надписью Prada. Видение Jil Sander+ также отражено в логотипе: знак + добавлен к названию марки. Такой брендинг не только намекает на минималистскую эстетику, ставшую визитной карточкой Jil Sander, но и указывает на коллаборационный характер серии. Первая коллекция Jil Sander+ была создана в сотрудничестве с экспертом по прорезиненной ткани Mackintosh. В нее вошли вещи для активного отдыха, которые объединили наследие, опыт и мастерство двух брендов. Испанский дом моды Loewe, еще один сторонник первоклассного мастерства, также запустил новую линию. Функциональная коллекция мужской одежды Eye/ Loewe/Nature создавалась в Японии и объединила принципы высокой моды с практическим подходом. Все три линии отражают суть и эстетику соответствующего бренда, а благодаря первоклассному дизайну и современным технологиям производства они ничуть не уступают основным коллекциям. Здоровье и благополучие – приоритет для любого потребителя, поэтому люксовые бренды спешат

прийти на помощь всем поклонникам здорового образа жизни. Prada c линией Prada Linea Rossa решила присоединиться к неугасающему тренду на athleisure, выпустив коллекцию носков, панам и курток со светоотражающими элементами, которые можно приобрести в том числе в магазинах ведущего производителя уличной одежды Highsnobiety. Если серия Prada Linea Rossa акцентирует внимание в основном на спортивном стиле, то Jil Sander+ позиционирует себя, как одежда «для жизни за городом», и использует природу в качестве главного источника для вдохновения. Здесь можно проследить любовь Люси и Люка Майер к занятию активным отдыхом и спортом, включая туризм, горные лыжи и скалолазание. Линия Eye/Loewe/Nature в свою очередь описывает себя, как «коллекцию мужской одежды, вдохновленную утопическим видением природы». Помимо того, что вещи серии предназначены для тех, кто хочет быть ближе к природе, бренд помогает сделать мир лучше, отчисляя в 2019 году 15 евро с каждой продажи на борьбу с пластиком. А в целом все три бренда объединяет одна задача – создавать практичные вещи, в которых было бы удобно заниматься спортом, будь то бег, кемпинг, туризм и что-то иное. Выпуск спортивной одежды и одежды для активного отдыха требует определенных технических знаний. Премиум-бренды, говоря о своих коллекциях, все чаще используют такие термины, как хай-тек, эффективный и функциональный, придавая большое значение globalblue.ru

техническим и функциональным тканям. Серия Eye/Loewe/Nature использует высококачественные ткани для сумок, переработанные материалы для толстовок и водоотталкивающий нейлон для парок. Prada Linea Rossa применяет последние разработки текстильной индустрии, включая нано-ткани, водонепроницаемые мембраны Gore-Tex Pro и наполнители PrimaLoft, в то время как в серию Jil Sander+ входят вещи из японского денима, арктические пуховики, компактные ветровки и надежная обувь. Все эти функциональные и технологичные новинки появляются в искусном сочетании формы и материала. Тема спорта и активного отдыха может быть отличным экспериментом для роскошных брендов, но очевидно, что их основное поприще – это высокая мода и городской стиль. Вещи из коллекции Eye/Loewe/Nature предназначены для ежедневных поездок на работу, и потому имеют повышенную износоустойчивость. Например, сумки бренда напоминают по конструкции сумки велосипедистов, которым изо дня в день приходится добираться на работу на велосипеде. Каждая из диффузных линий при этом остается верна ключевой философии бренда. Так, коллекция Jil Sander+, черпающая вдохновение из природы, демонстрирует минималистскую эстетику, присущую главной линии бренда, а Prada Linea Rossa, представленная на Неделе моды в Милане, дает понять, что спортивная линия марки неразрывно связана с высокой модой. Сегодня многие из знаменитых

модных брендов пытаются идти в ногу со временем, запуская новые диффузные линии. Они, несомненно, знают, как адаптироваться к новым реалиям, чтобы оставаться на плаву и двигаться вперед. Используя современные материалы и спортивные технологии, компании находят путь к сердцу тех, кто жаждет приключений и готов неустанно преодолевать границы своих возможностей. Диффузные линии не только предлагают нам высококлассные вещи, но и служат ярким отражением нашего времени.

48: BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS МОЛОДЫЕ И ТАЛАНТЛИВЫЕ Когда дело касается классического стиля, то для нового поколения итальянских дизайнеров правила перестают существовать, а индустрия моды переполняется духом веселья, – рассказывает Люсинда Тернер Когда задумываешься о типичной итальянской моде на ум порой приходит изысканная палитра нейтральных оттенков, много черного и, конечно, костюмы. Пока тысячи людей едут в Италию ради классического, элегантного образа, миллениалы тем временем замерли в ожидании очередного хита от одной из самых стильных стран в мире. И, конечно, молодые итальянские дизайнеры не разочаровывают. В мире, полном серьезности и нестабильности, новое поколение итальянских модельеров

делает ставку на чувство юмора, легкомыслие и гламур. Бренд The Attico, основанный в 2016 подругами и инсайдерами модной индустрии Джорджией Тордини и Джильдой Амброзио, быстро стал одним из самых ожидаемых событий Миланской Недели моды. Тордини и Амброзио – одни из самых стильных инфлюенсеров Милана, поэтому бренду просто суждено было стать воплощением шика. Бренд The Attico, вдохновленный винтажными нарядами 1920х годов, специализируется на нарядах для вечеринок, и в коллекции осень-зима 2019/20 большое внимание уделено пайеткам, перьям, рюшам и ламе в стиле 80х. «Главный посыл – жить на широкую ногу и наслаждаться каждым моментом», – говорится в пресс-релизе бренда. Женщина Attico гордится своей независимостью, слабостью к гедонизму и стремлением к маленьким радостям. Наряды бренда были замечены на красных ковровых дорожках и во время гламурных мероприятий по всему миру. Их демонстрировали все, от итальянского инфлюенсера Кьяры Ферраньи и супермодели Рози Хантингтон-Уайтли до голливудской звезды Дакоты Джонсон и семейства Кардашьян. Бренд Attico, чьи коллекции продаются в самых престижных универмагах Италии и всего мира, считает, что лучший способ развлечься – это как следует нарядиться, добавив в образ немного роскоши. Именно такой подход разделяет все больше новых модных брендов Милана. Giuseppe di Morabito, основанный в 2014 году, стал известен благодаря привлекательным украшениям,

ярким краскам и неожиданным эффектам. Во время показов Миланской Недели моды осень-зима 2019/20 бренд удивил своей нестандартной презентацией, которая прошла в темном и мрачном театре, украшенном хрустальными люстрами. В этой драматической атмосфере ярко выделялись модели, одетые в сверкающие наряды марки. Как и в случае с Attico, в Giuseppe di Morabito были заметны смелые силуэты 80х, стилизованные под новый сезон: крупные плечи, сверкающие сапоги до колена и крохотные коктейльные платья. Своей музой бренд называет эксцентричную легенду итальянской моды начала 20 века – Маркизу Луизу Казати. Именно она стала олицетворением образа сильной женщины, который красной нитью проходит через всю коллекцию. Бренд со всей серьезностью относится к своим итальянским корням и маркировке «Сделано в Италии». В основе производства лежат традиционные методы, классическое корсетное дело и тейлоринг. Именно такие моменты отличают молодые итальянские бренды от остальных. И хотя многие начинающие дизайнеры Италии ставят своей целью разрушить стереотипы классической итальянской моды, их уважение к технологиям пошива и итальянскому качеству остается неизменным. «Фраза „Cделано в Италии“ олицетворяет преданность высочайшему качеству и наследию итальянского швейного мастерства, – говорит Сара Батталья, чей одноименный бренд (Sara Battaglia) выпускает коллекции одежды уже шесть сезонов подряд. – На самом деле, любовь к моде и globalblue.ru

эстетике у итальянцев в крови». Судя по последней коллекции дизайнера, строгий тейлоринг в сочетании с забавными деталями дает весьма положительный результат. Эффектные костюмы, коктейльные платья с металлизированной нитью и желтые шубы из искусственного меха имеют равную ценность в серии, которая предлагает вещи на любой случай. «Идеальная покупательница бренда – утонченная, элегантная и сильная, – отмечает Батталья, – она всегда готова к важному собранию, не теряя при этом свой женственности». Яркие оттенки, смелые формы и объемные силуэты – визитная карточка дизайнера. Несмотря на относительно небольшую историю, в июне 2019 ее бренд насчитывал 150 000 подписчиков в Instagram, включая большое число знаменитостей и выдающихся представителей итальянской индустрии моды. История компании началась с выпуска женских сумок и переросла в полноценный модный бренд. Коллекции одежды дизайнера стали воплощением гламурного, дерзкого и изящного миланского стиля. Поразительно, насколько обдуманно бренд подошел к образу жизни современной женщины. В коллекции есть буквально все: от эффектного костюма для деловых переговоров до откровенного мини-платья для пятничного вечера. Открыть новый бренд в таком городе, как Милан – задача не из легких. И хотя компании сегодня могут изыскать тысячу способов, чтобы выделиться из общей массы (начиная от знаменитостей в роле амбассадоров и заканчивая кампаниями в соцсетях), The Attico, Giuseppe di Morabito и Sara

Battaglia в первую очередь делают ставку на эффектный образ. Они создают яркую, привлекающую внимание одежду для женщин, которые слишком заняты, чтобы беспокоиться о том, привлекают ли они чье-то внимание. По словам Батталья, «это вещи, созданные для веселья и для тех, кому наряжаться всегда только в радость». Экстравагантные, забавные и, прежде всего, приносящие радость – нет сомнения, что от такого сочетания выиграет любой гардероб.

76: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С TAX FREE Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить Tax Free формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.95 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

日本語翻訳 36: MONOGRAM MANIA

モノグラムマニア

高級ブランドはここ数十年のロゴマニアを振り返り、ちょっぴり皮肉なユーモアを利かせた新たなロゴマニアを今シーズンのルックスに盛り込んでいる。レベッカ・リース・エヴァンズがレポートする。ロゴは長年お馴染みのブランドの顔であり、服そのものよりもレーベルのアイデンティティを凝縮しているといってもいい。2019年秋冬は、ロゴのモチーフやモノグラムの使用が高級ブランドデザイナーの間でかつてないほど流行っ

ており、今シーズンのミラノ・ファッションウィークのキャットウォークでも大きなトレンドの一つになっていた。アイグナーのクリエイティブディレクター、クリスチャン・ベックによると、柔軟なアプローチで「ロゴをいじったり、シーズンごとに違う視覚表現をしたり」するブランドもいくつかあるという。 1980年代の過剰の美学をルーツとするロゴマニアは、好景気に沸く90年代のアメリカで全盛を迎えたといわれている。ヴェルサーチ、モスキーノ、ルイ・ヴィトン、ディオールなどのブランド

上：フェンディ秋/冬 2019/20

が、モノグラム柄の「旬」のバッグやT シャツ、セーター、派手なゴールドジュエリーのイメージになった頃だ。お得意客がモチーフやロゴの入った服を選んでステータスと富を誇示し、それがブランドにとっては露出度を上げて世界的なプロモーションを行うユニークな機会となった。それから20年の月日が流れ、世界的不況を経て、ミニマリズムが鍵の時代が来る。ブランド名をやたら見せるセーターよりも、フィービー・ファイロがセリーヌで見せた「ノームコア（究極の普通）」や、機能的でお洒落でインパクトの強いスタイル観（誇張されたシルエットや素材感など）など、控えめな装いが主流になった。そうしてファッションからロゴものが消え去ったかと思いきや、各ブランドがここへ来て新たにロゴをテーマにし始めたのだ。ヴェトモンは 2016年に今世紀最大のアンチファッションの動きとして、DHLのロゴが入ったTシャツを繰り出した。他社のロゴを使ったことから、ブランディングの性質について論議が巻き起こると同時に、シュプリームやパレスといった有力ストリートウェアブランドがロゴ入りのシンプルな服で高級品市場に進出する道が開かれた。グッチでは、ディオニュソスのような極めつけのモノグラムバッグに限らず、モノグラムを広く展開。今シーズンは、お馴染みのGGマークをソックスにラメ糸で、ツイードのブレザーにウール糸でステッチしたり、スニーカーの側面に入れたりしている。クリエイティブディレクターのアレッサンドロ・ミケーレは、イタズラ描き風のブランドロゴを加えたり、究極は服を海賊版に見せたりして、高級ファッションを茶化してみせた。「ロゴをいじりたくてしょうがなかったんです。モナリザの絵に落書きするようなものですからね。ダブルG のマークは誰もが知る象形文字で、それをデザインの仕上げの飾りにしています。」ミケーレのアプローチは、遊び心溢れるパロディとしての現代モノグラムという概念を表現したものだ。それをきっかけに、高級ファッションにおけるロゴマニアのニューウェーブが始まり、マーチャンダイズ風の「ホンモノのフェイク」感を漂わせる本物を求める

PHOTO: GORUNWAY.COM

のがトレンドになってきている。今やブランディングを考え直すレーベルが続出している。フェンディは故カール・ラガーフェルドの最後のコレクションで、有名なFマークをスポーティなストリートウェア風のシャープさをもつものに変え、2019年秋冬は2つの異なる表情を見せている。シックなベージュ色を使った70年代にヒントを得た構造的なジャンパースカート、プリーツスカート、リボン付きのトップ、襟に糊を利かせたシャツを繰り出す中に、時おりフェイクレザーの鮮やかな色を利かせた。ここで光っていたロゴは、半透明の白タイツやロールネックに入った古風なレディらしいイタリック体のダブルFのモノグラム。一方、フェンディのストリートウェアとしての表情が見えたのは、靴やカバン、メンズウェア、そして新たなFFカプセルコレクションだった。レインコートからバッグ、トラックスーツ、バケットハット、フットウェアまで、あらゆるものに黄褐色のモノグラムが付いている。90年代末から2000年代初頭にかけてのファッション界の様相を茶化し、その頃の悪趣味の概念を皮肉りながらも認めているのだ。バーバリーは新クリエイティブディレクターのリカルド・ティッシのもと、ロゴを変更して物議を醸している。ティッシは有名グラフィックデザイナーのピーター・サヴィルと共にバーバリーの過去資料をあたり、同ブランドの創業者トーマス・バーバリーのイニシャルをヒントに、TBが連結した新たなモノグラムを創り出した。二人はロゴにも手を付け、1901年から使ってきた古風なトレードマーク「馬上の騎士」とボドニフォントを、大胆なサンセリフフォントの活字に代えた。ドイツのブランド、アイグナーがミラノで披露した2019年秋冬コレクションは、現代ファッションにおけるロゴの重要性を強く打ち出しており、ロゴはいじってはならぬという従来の考えをくつがえすものだった。「時代の流れで、柔軟な自由化が可能になっています」というベック。アイグナーでは、同ブランドの黒と茶のロゴを使ったスポーティなバムバッグや着脱可能なバッグストラップ、花を絵付けしたモノグラム入りのウエストバッグにそれが表れている。

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この女性らしいアップデートは、ここ数シーズンにわたりイタズラ描きやシークインのバッジ、グラフィティや花のモチーフで古典的な80年代のロゴを刷新してきたグッチのモノグラム入りディオニュソスバッグのスタイルに呼応する。今シーズンのアイグナーは、ファッションアイコンのアイリス・アプフェルとのコラボにより既製服コレクションを制作した。同ブランド独特のA字プリントのシャーリングジャケットなどが目玉だ。グッチのGGもシャネルのダブルC も、ルイ・ヴィトンのLV模様のカバンも、ロゴやブランディングへのこだわりは今に始まったことではない。ただ、2019年秋冬は、従来からあったトレンドを刷新するブランドが、ミラノで変身を果たしたグッチ、フェンディ、マックスマーラ、アイグナーや、新たなルックスをロンドンで披露したバーバリーをはじめ、かつてなく多いのだ。これが永続するかと言われると、過去の経験から見る限りおそらく続かないだろうが、本来シリアスなファッション界のムードにちょっぴり皮肉を利かせてはいる。今のファッションに必要なものがあるとすれば、それはまさしくユーモア感覚だ。

42: DYNAMIC DUOS

ダイナミック・デュオ高級ファッションブランドのパイオニアが、冒険的で画期的なセカンダリーラインを導入することによって新鮮味と今日性を維持している。ジンジャー・ローズ・クラークが3つの最たる例を紹介する。ここ数シーズン、有名高級ブランドのいくつかが新たな領域へ進出している。プラダが1997年に初登場したスポーツウェア中心の「プラダ・リネア・ロッサ」ラインを2018/19年秋冬のショーで復活させているし、ロエベも2019年1月に「アイ/ ロエベ/ネイチャー」コレクションを発表。そして、2019/20年秋冬はジル・サンダーが「ジル・サンダー+」を新たに披露

した。 10年前までは、若年向けの廉価な普及版としてセカンダリーラインを出すブランドが多かった。ところが、ファッション業界全体が合理化の波に洗われ、ヴェルサス・ヴェルサーチ、バーバリー・ロンドン、ドルチェ＆ガッバーナのD&G などセカンダリーラインの多くが姿を消した。今見られるのはそれとは全く異なる新しいアプローチで、高級ブランドが商品の多面化を図り、セカンダリーラインの概念を塗り替えている。

上：ジル・サンダー+ 秋/冬 2019/20

そうした新プロジェクトの核心に共通してあるのは、デザイン主導のアプローチだ。プラダ・リネア・ロッサもジル・サンダー+ も、概ねユニセックスでシンプルなデザインと着心地の良さを第一に追求したコレクションを出している。プラダ・リネア・ロッサのスポーツウェアは、1990年代のリバイバルという今のトレンドを取り入れ、それにクリーンで洗練されたシルエットを組み合わせた。その典型が、ストライプ状の赤地に白で「Prada」と書いた90年代のお馴染みのロゴだ。ジル・サンダー+のビジョンも、ジル・サンダーの名前の後にシンプルな「+」を加えたロゴ使いに表れている。このブランディングは、同ブランドの特徴であるミニマリスト的な美学を体現しているだけでなく、コラボという一面も示唆している。ジル・サンダー+ の初コレクションは、ボンディング加工した伸縮性ファブリックのスペシャリスト、マッキントッシュとのコラボだ。その結果生まれたアウターウェアは、両ブランドの歴史と専門分野、職人の技術を活かしたもので、組み合わせが利くモジュラー式になっているのが特徴だ。同じく高い職人技術にこだわるロエベも、仕立ての良さへのこだわりをさらに深め、育んでいくために新たなアウトレットを創設した。機能性を追求したメンズの「アイ/ロエベ/ネイチャー」ラインは日本製で、同ブランドの高級ファッションのアイデンティティを打ち出しつつ、実用性と実利性を第一にしている。これら3つの商品ラインはいずれも各ブランドの精神と美学を反映し、質の高いデザインと生産手法にこだわっているため、メインのコレクションに匹敵する価格帯になっている。世界中の顧客にとってウェルビーイング（心身の健康と幸福）が優先課題になっている中、高級ブランドも脱日常からエクササイズまであらゆる需要に応えている。プラダ・リネア・ロッサはアスレジャーのトレンドに乗り、ソックスやバケットハット、反射素材のジャケットといった商品を提供している。ストリートウェアの権威「ハイスノバイエティ（Highsnobiety）」など、取扱店舗が充実しているのも自慢だ。プラダ・リネア・ロッサがアクティブウェアに特化しているのに対し、ジル・サンダー+ は「都会

から抜け出した暮らし」をコンセプトとし、主に自然からインスピレーションを得ている。クリエイティブディレクターのルーシー・メイヤーとルーク・メイヤーがハイキングやスキー、山登りなどアウトドアやスポーツの愛好家であることが反映されているのだ。同様に、「アイ/ロエベ/ネイチャー」も「大いなるアウトドアのユートピア的ビジョンをインスピレーションとするメンズウェア」が謳い文句だ。自然とつながりを持ちたい人のために商品を作るだけでなく、2019年に販売された商品1点あたり15ユーロをプラスチック汚染撲滅のために寄付しているといい、より良い世界づくりにも貢献しようとしている。３ブランドは、ランニングやキャンピング、ハイキングなど、目的を持ったデザインという点で共通している。スポーツウェアやアウトドアの装いを作るには、専門技術が必要だ。高級ブランドが新たなコレクションを語る時、ハイテク、パフォーマンス・ドリブン、ハイパーファンクショナルといった流行りの言葉を使うことが増えている。テクノロジーを用いた機能性のファブリックに強くこだわっているからに他ならない。アイ/ロエベ/ネイチャーでは、バッグにハイグレードなキャンバス地、ジャンパーに再生素材、パーカーに撥水性ナイロンを使用している。プラダ・リネア・ロッサでは、ナノテク素材やゴアテックスプロ撥水性マイクロファイバー、プリマロフトパディングといったテキスタイルの最先端技術を用い、ジル・サンダー+ は日本製デニムを使った商品の他、アークティックダウンのジャケット、折り畳んでしまえるアウターウェア、頑丈なフットウェアを提供している。こうした機能性テキスタイルやアウターウェアデザインの革新が、形と機能の巧みな組み合わせとなって体現されるのだ。大いなるアウトドアとスポーツが出発点になっているとはいえ、高級ブランドはあくまでもハイファッションにこだわっているため、都会の暮らしにも合わせられる。アイ/ロエベ/ネイチャーの商品は、日々の通勤にも厳しい自然環境の中でも威力を発揮するし、例えばバッグは自転車通勤する人々も使えるようシンプルなデザインになっている。新ラインはそれぞれ、ブランドの精神を尊重し

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ている。ジル・サンダー+ の自然をインスピレーションとして生まれた商品ラインは、同ブランドのメインラインと同じミニマリスト的な高級感漂う美しさを追求している。プラダ・リネア・ロッサはスポーツウェアラインだが、ミラノ・ファッションウィークでお披露目され、ハイファッションとのつながりは議論の余地がない。伝統ある高級ファッションブランドは、新たなセカンダリーラインの導入によって21世紀における立ち位置をしっかり確保しており、現代に通用し将来に向けて進化するブランドであるためにいかに適応するかを知っていることを立証している。各ブランドはテクニカルでアウトドアに特化することが多いデザインを通じて、冒険に憧れ、自然に身を置きたい、物理的限界を押し広げたいという顧客に語り掛ける。それらの新ラインは世界一流の商品を提供するだけでなく、時代そのものを映し出してもいる。

48: BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS

光彩を放つ若手デザイナー新世代のイタリアンデザイナーがクラシックスタイルのルールブックを破り捨て、ファッション界に再び遊び心を吹き込んでいる。ルシンダ・ターナーがレポートする。典型的なイタリアンファッションといえば、洗練されたニュートラルカラーや黒をふんだんにつかったシャープなテーラリングを思い浮かべるだろう。時代を超えたルックスを実現するアイテムを求めてイタリアへ旅する人が多い中、ミレニアル世代は世界で最もスタイリッシュな国の一つ、イタリアが今後発信するトレンドに関心を持っている。イタリアの新進デザイナーはその期待を裏切らない。深刻さと不安が充満する今の世界で、新世代のイタリアンデザイナーは楽しさ、戯れ心、グラマラスな魅力を第一に追求している。

ファッションインサイダーで友人同士のジョルジア・トルディーニとジルダ・アンブロジオが2016年に創立したブランド「アティコ」は、早くもミラノ・ファッションウィークの待望のプレゼンの一つになった。トルディーニとアンブロジオはミラノで最もスタイリッシュなインフルエンサーで、このブランドが今風ファッションの典型になることは確かだった。もともと 1920年代のヴィンテージドレスをインスピレーションとしていたアティコだが、現在は女性に自信を与えるパーティドレスを専門に扱い、2019/20年秋冬のコレクションではシークインや羽根飾り、ラッフル、80年代のラメがふんだんに登場する。同ブランドの最新コレクション発売時のプレスリリースによれば、「羽振りの良さ、人生を自由に楽しみながら生きるということがテーマ」だという。アティコが描く女性像は、自立していることに誇りを持ち、自分なりの快楽を楽しみ、楽しいことなら何でも歓迎する女性。このブランドの商品はイタリアのインフルエンサー、キアラ・フェラーニやスーパーモデルのロージー・ハンティントン・ホワイトリー、ハリウッドスターのダコタ・ジョンソ

上：ジアティコ秋/冬 2019/20

ン、カーダシアン家の女性など、様々な人が受賞式典や豪華なイベントで着ているのが目撃されている。今やイタリア内外の名門デパートでも扱っているアティコは、おめかしをして楽しみ、どんな場面でもちょっと贅沢を味わおうという主義だ。こうしたスタンスは、お洒落度抜群のミラノの新進レーベルによく見られるようになってきている。 2014年創立のジュゼッペ・ディ・モラビトは、人目を引く飾りと元気な色合い、意外な効果で知られる。常識にとらわれず、ミラノ・ファッションウィーク中は 2019/20年秋冬コレクションを暗くドラマチックな劇場で披露するという型破りな演出をしてみせ、クリスタルのシャンデリアの下を煌びやかなドレスをまとったモデルたちが闊歩した。アティコと同じく、ジュゼッペ・ディ・モラビトも新シーズンの制作では1980年代の大胆さを念頭に置き、パワーショルダーや光沢のあるニーハイブーツ、超ミニのカクテルドレスなどが目玉になっている。20世紀初頭イタリアの奇抜なファッションアイコン、マルケーザ・ルイーザ・カサティがミューズだといい、大胆でパワフルな女性像を再びコレクションの核心に据えたのだ。同ブランドはイタリアンルーツと「メイド・イン・イタリア」のラベルをとても大事にし、どの作品にも伝統的手法と古典的なイタリアのコルセットづかいやテーラリングを用いている。そうした確かな伝統の技術に基づくところが、イタリアの新進レーベルが他の国のレーベルと違うところだ。イタリアの若きデザイナーの多くは、因習を破って古典的なイタリアンドレッシングに新たな一石を投じることを究極の目的にしているが、それでもイタリア製品の技巧と品質を重んじるところは相変わらずだ。「『メイド・イン・イタリア』は高い品質とイタリアンテーラリングの伝統に対する情熱の象徴」と、自分の名を冠したレーベルを立ち上げて6シーズン目に入ったサラ・バッタリアはいう。「イタリア人は、美しいものと、ファッションへの情熱を生まれながらに持っているのです。」バッタリアの最新コレクションを見れば、精密なテーラリングとファッションを楽しむ心のミックスが素晴らしい作品を生むことがはっきり見て取れる。パワースーツ

もメタリックルレックスのカクテルドレスも、過激なイエローのフェイクファーコートも、コレクションでは同じように重要なものとして扱われ、着る人の一日の様々な時と場面にあうものが何かしら用意されている。「私の理想の女性像は、洗練されてエレガントで強い女性です」というバッタリア。「職場で重役会議に出席する一方で、堂々たる女性らしさを持った人です。」大胆な色合いとインパクトたっぷりの形と量感が、このブランドの特徴だ。同ブランドはまだ日が浅いにもかかわらず、インスタグラムでは2019年6月現在15万人のフォロワーがおり、イタリアンファッション通だけでなく有名人の間でも広い人気を誇る。もともとハンドバッグのレーベルだったバッタリアだが、今ではグラマラスな魅力を湛え大胆で洗練されたミラノのファッションシーンを代表する既製服ブランドになっている。大事なミーティングで印象を残すスーツから、金曜の夜に

ダンスに出かける時に着る大胆極まるミニドレスまで、バッタリアは21世紀の女性のライフスタイルにぴったりくるブランドだ。ファッション界の歴史と伝統が深く根づく都市で新たなブランドを確立するのは、容易なことではない。現在は有名人アンバサダーからソーシャルメディアキャンペーンまで、レーベルをアピールする方法はいくらでもあるが、アティコ、ジュゼッペ・ディ・モラビト、サラ・バッタリアはいずれも、目を見張るような素敵な服を作るという一点に焦点を絞っている。それらブランドのデザイナーは、人生を楽しむことに忙しくて誰に見られているか気にする暇もない女性のために、「私を見て！」と主張する服を作っている。それは楽しむための服であり、バッタリアいわく「服を着る時に微笑む女性」のためにデザインされた服だ。華麗で遊び心に溢れ、何よりも楽しい服。誰しもワードローブの中に少しは持っていたいものだ。

76: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 海外でのお買い物が免税にグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある30万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを踏むだけです。 1. お買い物お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。

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2. 還付請求ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にスタンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。お問い合わせ: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.95以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望の場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課されます。

SO U V E N I R

When In Rome

Founded in Rome in 1884, Bulgari is one of the most prestigious brands to come out of the city and is renowned for its high-end jewellery and luxury leather goods. For autumn/ winter 2019/20, the historic house introduces an elegant range of 10 travel-inspired silk scarves, each one focusing on a different city and its respective landmarks. Drawing on Bulgariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s global influence, destinations Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 76

include New York, Tokyo, Sydney, Shanghai and Hong Kong, as well as the Italian locations Portofino and Capri. During your stay in the Eternal City, the Rome scarf is surely the only choice for a stylish reminder of your trip. lt Bulgari Rome scarf, â&#x201A;Ź130, Bulgari, Via dei Condotti 10, 00187 Rome, +39 06 696261, bulgari.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 55

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RELAX. REFRESH. REFUND. Our Global Blue Lounges are the perfect places to relax during your shopping trip. Situated in the most fashionable areas of the world’s shopping capitals, the invitation only lounges are a haven for Tax Free Shopping.

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