SHOP Italy Style SS18

ITALY | 意大利 | ИТАЛИЯ | イタリア

ITALY Style Edition Spring/Summer 2018

EXPLORE ITALY: behind the scenes at the country’s best stores, brands and more

#BoggiGentlemanStyle

A GENTLEMAN FINDS IRONY IN EVERYTHING. - Rule 23 -

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pisa orologeria boutique rolex via montenapoleone 24 milano

pisa orologeria flagship store via verri 7, milano

pisa orologeria boutique hublot via verri 7, milano

the leading retailer for watch lovers

And many more... For more information please visit: www.pisaorologeria.com

pisa orologeria boutique patek philippe via verri 9, milan0

CALLE DEL TEATRO 4599, VENICE

PIAZZA DEGLI ANTINORI 3D, FIRENZE

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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Barcelona Belgium Berlin Copenhagen 捷克 Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫أملانيا‬ 德国 Германия Gothenburg

Welcome to Italy

Hamburg Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Oslo Paris Prague Rome Singapore Stockholm Switzerland Чехия /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this beautiful and fascinating country. Read about the names adding a distinctive Italian spin to sneaker design (page 42), discover one of Florence’s oldest beauty brands (page 50), and much more. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to the most prestigious destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Italy. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the new SHOP TAX FREE app, which is available now – find all the details in our guide section in this issue. Calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.

CONTRIBUTORS

SALLY MCILHONE As SHOP’s deputy editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally has contributed to ShortList, Stylist and Total Film online. For this issue, she speaks to Eugenio Alphandery, director of one of Florence’s oldest and most celebrated brands. globalblue.com

HAYLEY MOSELEY SHOP’s senior artworker Hayley Moseley graduated in graphic communication with typography from the University of Plymouth and specialises in editorial design. In her spare time she can often be found in vintage-clothing shops searching for items from the 1930s, 40s and 50s, lifting weights at the gym, or swimming in a mermaid tail.

ILLUSTRATION: MUTI - FOLIO ART; PHOTO: (RIGHT) BARRIE DOWNIE

MUTI Creative studio Muti created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Italy. Its inventive artwork has previously been commissioned by Google, Esquire and British Airways, among others. Its designers’ flair makes the studio a perfect choice for this cover, inspired by Italy’s reputation for fine tailoring, which shows some of the country’s most celebrated landmarks stitched on to the pocket of a luxury suit jacket. Discover SHOP Italy and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L

PUBLISHING

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Acting deputy editor Ruairidh Pritchard Cover illustrator Muti - Folio Art Contributors Patrick Clark Production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion and lifestyle writer Rebecca Rhys-Evans

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese production editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editors Yangzi Liang, Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Senior Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy

News editor Ginger Rose Clark

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne, Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan

Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistant Inga Abramian Marketing intern Joanna Dodge Digital production assistant Linda Hau Production assistant Chris Bigg

Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Hayley Moseley Artworker Onur Unaltay Artworking assistant Tatjiana Antoniou Editorial intern Hannah Dall Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Acting online managing editor Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Dian Liu Digital marketing manager Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

G LO B A L B L U E I TA LY Managing director Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales manager Denise Bolandrina Partner relationship manager Antonella Bertossi Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Marketing executive Laura Gallo Marketing coordinator Alberta Reinach Head of key accounts Stefano Cardinale Head of accounts Marco Cavalli Global account managers Simone Borgheresi, Umberto Pannizut, Salvatore Smith Key account managers Benedetta Andreini, Nicoletta Aromando, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Consuelo Murari, Marco Savino Account managers Mirko Ardita, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Laura Durante, Giorgia Faro, Attilio Fioritti, Gabriele Giuntini, Davide Grechi, Diana Martin, Elisa Narducci, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Giordano Senzacqua, Laura Vitale Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, 21013 Gallarate, Varese, Italy

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2018 Global Blue

CONTENTS

PRODUCTS 18 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Italy this season 20 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

NEWS 30 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Florence 32 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products 38 In Store … … with Il Bisonte’s CEO Sofia Ciucchi in the brand’s new Milan flagship

ESSENTIALS 86 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

FEATURES

TRANSLATIONS

42 One Step Ahead The rise of sportswear in the fashion world is seeing Italy’s leading artisanal shoemakers dip their toes into sneaker culture. Patrick Clark reports 50 History In The Making Officina ProfumoFarmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is a Florentine institution. Sally McIlhone meets its director

88 中文翻译 93 Русский Перевод 101 日本語翻訳

SOUVENIR 106 The essential item to bring home

ITALY GUIDE 57 Maps and guides to Italy’s top shops and destinations, plus SHOP's unique view of the sights of Florence Above (from top): Alberto Guardiani Somerset sneakers; Il Bisonte Weekend bag

CHECK OUT

CATCH THE SUN Vibrant yellow with a splash of gold detailing makes the perfect combination for summer accessories, as demonstrated by this eminently desirable bag by Florence-based Les Petits Joueurs. First seen in the Resort 2018 collection, the Lulu has been updated for the new season with a different handle and more space for your essentials. The brand has become known for creating luxury bags with quirky Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

streetwear-influenced touches since it was founded in 2013 by Maria Sole Cecchi. Its statement designs are now available in major department stores and boutiques worldwide, as well as at its inviting flagship in Florence’s historic centre. fm Les Petits Joueurs Lulu bag, €550, Les Petit Joueurs, Via de’ Tornabuoni 6, 50123 Florence, +39 055 286855, lespetitsjoueurs.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 81

loriblu.com

20 | P R O D U C T S

BROWNIE

MIX

Dress from top to bottom in hues of beige, chocolate and espresso

Belstaff jacket, €1,395, Gente Roma, Via del Babuino 185, 00187 Rome, +39 06 322 5954, belstaff.com APC boots, €400, Wok Store, Viale Col di Lana 5A, 20136 Milan, +39 02 3656 8742, apc.fr

Cos socks, €7, Cos, Via della Spada 1, 50123 Florence, +39 055 281093, cosstores.com

Tommy Hilfiger backpack, €304.90, Tommy Hilfiger, Piazza Guglielmo Oberdan 2A, 20129 Milan, +39 02 2024 1573, tommy.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Massimo Dutti trousers, €49.95, Massimo Dutti, Merceria del Capitello, San Marco 4922-4923, 30124 Venice, +39 041 296 0774, massimodutti.com

LOUNGE EXPERIENCE APP

SHOP TAX FREE IN ITALY Discover the new tax refund experience with Global Blueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lounges, saving you time and money. Plus you can discover shopping trips in Italy, city maps, events and local store information. Download the Lounge Experience app now

22 | P R O D U C T S

ALL THE BAGS Woven details in wicker, leather, raffia or suede are everywhere this season

Miu Miu bag, €1,300, Miu Miu, Via Sant’Andrea 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 1799, miumiu.com

Louis Vuitton bag, €3,250, Louis Vuitton, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 1711, louisvuitton.com

Bottega Veneta bag, €1,100, Bottega Veneta, Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina 9-13, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6821 0024, bottegaveneta.com

Fendi bag, from €1,980, Fendi, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1617, fendi.com

Loewe bag, from €1,700, Loewe, Piazza di Spagna 88, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 3598, loewe.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Max Mara bag, €2,200, Max Mara, Merceria Due Aprile, San Marco 5033, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 6688, maxmara.com

24 | P R O D U C T S

Swarovski ring, €149, Swarovski, Via dei Calzaiuoli 43R, 50122 Florence, +39 055 216227, swarovski.com

SUITS YOU

Tod’s bag, €895, Tod’s, Calle Larga XXII Marzo, San Marco 2251, 30124 Venice, +39 041 520 6603, tods.com

Bally shoes, €450, Bally, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8406, bally.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Pinko blazer, €390, and trousers, €275, Pinko, Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 4184, pinko.com

PHOTOS: (SHOES) © BALLY; (BLAZER & TROUSERS) TOMMASO VECCHI

Pair a baby-blue lace blazer with matching trousers and cream slippers for a contemporary approach

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BRIGHT THINKING Pair red and fuchsia with mules and cat-eye sunglasses for a look that’s both classic and modern

Céline sunglasses, €290, Céline, Via dei Condotti 20A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 7594, celine.com

Strenesse dress, €499, La Fayette, Via Felice Cavallotti 3, 21052 Busto Arsizio, +39 0331 627280, strenesse.com

Salvatore Ferragamo shoes, €595, Salvatore Ferragamo, Via de’ Tornabuoni 4R-14R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 292123, ferragamo.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Bulgari bag, €1,780, Bulgari, Salizada San Moisè, San Marco 1494-1497, 30124 Venice, +39 041 241 0553, bulgari.com

PHOTOS: (DRESS) ANDREAS-ACHMANN.COM; (BAG) BULGARI/MAURO FABBIO

Dsquared2 earrings, €715, Dsquared2, Via Sant’Andrea 18, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8969 1699, dsquared2.com

28 | P R O D U C T S

Tumi backpack, €415, Tumi, Via del Babuino 57, 00187 Rome, +39 06 323 5346, tumi.com

FUNCTION STYLE

Choose the perfect backpack for your needs Jimmy Choo backpack, €895, Jimmy Choo, Via Sant’Andrea 1A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4548 1770, jimmychoo.com

Diesel backpack, €200, Diesel, Via degli Speziali 16R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 239 9963, diesel.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Brunello Cucinelli backpack, €2,190, Brunello Cucinelli, Via del Babuino 150D, 00187 Rome, +39 06 321 4038, brunellocucinelli.com

PHOTOS: (DIESEL) YLENIA ZAMPIERON/OFFICINAFOTOGRAFICA.EU; (JIMMY CHOO) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY

MCM backpack, €950, Al Duca d’Aosta, Calle Larga San Marco, San Marco 284, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 0733, mcmworldwide.com

Milano - Piazza Gae Aulenti, 8

A FIRST FOR FLORENCE At the end of 2017 Moncler threw open the doors of its first boutique in Florence. Located on Via degli Strozzi, the new store overlooks the picturesque Piazza della Republica. Elegant interiors featuring marble and smoked oak create a warm, sophisticated Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

environment in which to shop the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing and sportwear collections for men and women, including the technical Moncler Grenoble line, as well as a range of covetable accessories. grc Moncler, Via degli Strozzi 3R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 265 7583, moncler.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 81

PHOTO: AGOSTINO OSIO

SHOP WINDOW

shop 24|7 carpisa.com

32 | N E W S

BEAUTY CALLS

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 81

ON THE CASE With more than 30 years of experience in creating hi-tech accessories, Italian brand Piquadro uses innovative techniques and materials while continuing to champion the virtues of fine Italian craftsmanship. The spring/ summer offering spans everything from handbags and technical backpacks through to luggage. Available in a selection of colours, the pictured Seeker case (€219) is equipped with a TSA lock as well as a practical stow-away handle, and has a capacity of 39.5 litres. grc Piquadro, Merceria del Capitello, San Marco 4940, 30124 Venice, +39 041 296 0037, piquadro.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 78

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

PHOTO: (LEFT) © LORENZO MICHELINI

Officina de’ Tornabuoni has been creating some of the finest natural skincare products since 1843. The family company, now run by the fourth generation, strikes the perfect balance between scientific innovation and traditional plant use, as exemplified by products such as the Antioxidant Intensive Serum (€68.80), an anti-ageing facial oil. With key ingredients including the cold-pressed oils of borage, olive and evening primrose, the serum promises to nourish and protest the skin while reducing signs of ageing. For best results, follow with one of the Florentine brand’s creams. rp Officina de’ Tornabuoni, Via de’ Tornabuoni 19N, 50123 Florence, +39 055 217481, odtskincare.com

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TOP TOURS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

BAGS OF STYLE With its wide range, Carpisa is one of the best places in Milan to find a new bag, briefcase or backpack for spring/summer 2018. At the brand’s store just off Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, visitors can explore its full range of men’s and women’s bags and small leather goods, as well as suitcases in which to take all your purchases home with you. rp Carpisa, Galleria Pattari, Via Pattari 5, 20122 Milan, +39 02 8909 6517, carpisa.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

PHOTOS: (TOP CENTRE) MARIO FERRARA; (BOTTOM LEFT) ANDREA OFFREDI

Enhance your trip to Milan with city tour specialist Zani Viaggi, which offers coach trips that take in the best of Milan’s culture, art and fashion, as well as shopping tours to some of Italy’s finest outlets. Services run from the city centre to shopping villages which showcase designer brands at discount prices. Destinations include Serravalle Designer Outlet, the largest outlet in Europe; Il Centro; Franciacorta Outlet Village; Scalo Milano; and Vicolungo The Style Outlets. Zani Viaggi can also take you across the border to Switzerland, to the FoxTown stores. Wherever you decide to go, Zani Viaggi will ensure that you travel in style. sm Zani Viaggi, Milan Visitor Center, Largo Cairoli 18 (city centre) and Milano Centrale station, Ground Level, 20100 Milan, +39 02 867131, zaniviaggi.com

S H O P | 35

PICTURE PERFECT

FRESH SETTING Luxury Italian brand Ermanno Scervino is internationally known for ready-to-wear collections that showcase Italy’s culture of fine craftsmanship to perfection. It recently opened a new boutique in Venice on Calle Vallaresso, one of the city’s most prestigious shopping streets, a location that perfectly matches the brand’s ethos. The new store carries typical Ermanno Scervino pieces such as pastel lightweight wool coats, elegant dresses and colourful embellished shoes and accessories that will create a polished look all year round. rre Ermanno Scervino, Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1314, 30124 Venice, +39 041 241 1602, ermannoscervino.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 75

globalblue.com

To capture your memories in high resolution, the latest addition to Sony’s mirrorless camera collection, the A7R III (€3,500), is the ideal device. Boasting a 42.4 megapixel sensor and the ability to capture video in 4K, the compact, lightweight camera offers professional quality shooting for experts and novices alike. Other features include an extra-long-life battery, upgraded autofocus and convenient transfer to your smartphone, tablet or computer via Wi-Fi – perfect for sharing your snaps instantly. lt Ottica Bongi, Via Por Santa Maria 82R-84R, 50122 Florence, +39 055 239 8811, sony.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 85

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SCENTS OF PLACE

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

CARRY IT OFF Founded in 1978, Coccinelle is known for its on-trend handbags, shoes, jewellery and accessories for women. The pictured Ambrine bag (€395) has been updated for spring/summer 2018 in woven straw finished with red and black leather. As a nod to the elegant styles of the 1950s, it has a neat handle as well as a longer strap so it can be worn as a cross-body bag. The rest of the Italian brand’s collection encompasses pastel totes, clutches and handbags, along with an array of small leather goods in a range of plain and printed suede and leather. rre Coccinelle, Merceria San Zulian, San Marco 712, 30124 Venice, +39 041 520 2127, coccinelle.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 78

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) ISABELLA PONTE

In the 16 years since it was founded, Acqua di Stresa has become known for sophisticated fragrances inspired by the landscapes and ambiance of Italy’s stunning Lake Maggiore region and its waterside town of Stresa. The brand’s most recent launches are suitably evocative: Virens, for instance, conjures up the atmosphere of a ride in a speedboat with top notes of artemisia, cinnamon leaf and saffron flower, and a heart of helichrysum, patchouli and amber accord, on a base of benzoin, oud and vanilla. Equally irresistible is Roburis, whose woody-spicy scent with berry notes references the earth and the woods. Paying homage to one of Italy’s loveliest regions, Acqua di Stresa’s fragrances make unforgettable souvenirs. grc Excelsior, Galleria del Corso 4, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7630 7301, acqua-di-stresa.it

S H O P | 37

ONE TO

WATCH

A CUT ABOVE

LIDO

Corneliani is noted for its classic tailored styles created using exquisite Italian fabrics, and its spring/summer 2018 collection is characteristically suave. Suits, jackets and outerwear come in a neutral palette of navy, beige, greys and white. The clothing is complemented by chic accessories, spanning everything from foulards, ties and cufflinks through to bags and footwear, including the pictured trainers (â&#x201A;Ź480), which are a great option for a casual urban look. Pair with tawny and beige pieces from this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection for a tonal effect. grc Corneliani, Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7955,

Established in 2017, Lido has swiftly taken the world by storm with its clean-cut swimwear. Named after an island in Venice, the city from which the brand hails, Lido sets out to create locally handmade pieces for contemporary women. Its second collection includes the pictured one-piece style, which is available in a selection of colours. grc Lol Roma, Via Urbana 89-92, 00184 Rome, +39 06 481 4160, lido-lido.com

corneliani.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 74

globalblue.com

38 | I N S TO R E

IN STORE: IL BISONTE Il Bisonte has been producing beautiful Italian-made leather goods and accessories for over four decades. Following the opening of the brand’s first Milan flagship, CEO Sofia Ciucchi speaks to Hannah Lewis about what makes Il Bisonte so special

‘I

fell in love with Il Bisonte’s clean and recognisable aesthetic, together with the quality of the materials and the workmanship. I appreciated the high quality of the collections, their “casual chic” style, and the blend of functionality, unconventional elements and timeless luxury. ‘Wanny Di Filippo, the founder, has always been a creative and unconventional person, characterised by outstanding curiosity. He founded the brand in the early 1970s and received an excellent reception from international

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

buyers for the cowhide accessories he personally designed and produced. The company continues to grow while remaining authentic and true to itself. ‘On a personal level, working and talking with Wanny is always fun: something unexpected and somehow inspiring comes out every time we meet, whether we talk at his favourite restaurant table or in his workshop in Palazzo Corsini amid his collection of more than 3,000 pieces of bison-related memorabilia. ‘The Milan boutique, our

‘The large space allows us to showcase all of the collections’ fourth in Italy, opened its doors last September during Fashion Week. We worked closely with Vudafieri Saverino Partners studio to create a place that emphasised the unique spirit of the brand, mixing the use of our leather with old and new pieces of furniture, adding touches of brilliant colour. The space is

made special and alive thanks to the exhibition of a few objects from Wanny’s bison collection in Florence, and through the prominent presence of a giant statue of a bison, transformed into a display for wallets. ‘The large space allows us to showcase all the brand’s collections - men’s, women’s and small leather goods - as well as have a space dedicated to customisation. Thanks to its technical skills and fine craftsmanship, Il Bisonte can offer customisation of products which ranges from the simple application of initials

Above (from left): Il Bisonte founder Wanny Di Filippo and CEO Sofia Ciucchi; the brand's flagship store in Milan

40 | I N S TO R E

to the design of products ad hoc for clients. A repair and maintenance service is offered for the whole lifetime of the products and reinforces the close bond between the brand, its creations and its users. ‘The materials are a distinctive feature of Il Bisonte’s production. The most famous is our Tuscan cowhide. This leather undergoes a process of vegetable tanning in the district of Santa Croce sull’Arno, 50km from Florence. As well as reducing the environmental impact and being more sustainable than traditional chemical tanning, this treatment makes the leather distinctive as it allows it to develop a nice patina over time. ‘The spring/summer 2018 collection is a tribute to the Wild West. The women’s collection is characterised by new stylistic details such as fringes and metal stars, which decorate the edges of the bags to give the brand’s iconic models a fresh and contemporary look. The men’s collection presents new features including a camouflage fabric made of a special fibre that is extremely resistant, with almost technical characteristics but a distinctive rough texture.’ Il Bisonte, Via Santo Spirito 14, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3014, ilbisonte.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 74

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

SHOP THE LOOK FOUR OF THE MOST STYLISH BAGS TO PICK UP FROM THE NEW MILAN STORE THIS SEASON

Il Bisonte weekend bag, €1,050

Il Bisonte satchel, €395

Il Bisonte cross-body bag, €545

Il Bisonte tasselled bag, €285

via della Vigna Nuova 24r - www.alcozer.it

88 101

ONE STEP AHEAD The rise of sportswear in the fashion world is seeing Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading artisanal shoemakers dip their toes into sneaker culture. Patrick Clark reports

Above: Alberto Guardiani Onesoul sneakers, spring/summer 2018

44 | F E AT U R E S

he artisanal footwear industries of Italy grew and prospered in the second half of the 20th century. With its distinctive model of local family businesses promoting local production, Italy crafted its own style to export to the world. The Marche region has been synonymous with excellence ever since, boasting a network of artisans and factories that produce high-end footwear, from covetable leather creations to made-to-order pieces. Sneakers – a high-street essential that was once the preserve of sportswear brands – are now becoming a staple of any fashion collection. The potential for luxury brands to turn their hand to sportswear has become more and more apparent, and the rigid demarcation between two design spheres is disappearing. This is creating an emerging market in Italy’s footwear landscape and a visible shift in the country’s shoemaking tradition. In this new chapter of shoemaking, Italian houses offer a luxury leather take on the

Above: Santoni men’s sneakers

streetwear staple. Corridonia-based Santoni, which started out as a local workshop specialising in made-toorder footwear, has turned its unique savoir faire to creating this sports item. Alongside loafers, double buckles and brogues, the sneaker is now a firm fixture of its collections. Ermenegildo Zegna – synonymous with luxury mens tailoring – has also introduced a smart-casual version of the sporty footwear. The Tiziano trainer has become a go-to style that combines luxury finishing with streetwear codes. This delicate balance of heritage and innovation is slowly becoming the defining factor of Italy’s fashion scene, with old and new techniques being combined to create a new shoe-making process. For Alberto Guardiani, whose eponymous company has existed since 1947, turning to sportswear was the

Italian houses offer a luxury leather take on the streetwear staple

46 | F E AT U R E S

change that propelled the expansion of the line: ‘I understood the importance of sneakers already in the early 2000s, when we launched our first unisex sneaker, Somerset: tapered with a big G on the side, according to the taste of the time,’ says the designer. ‘The success was so great that the company grew exponentially in very little time.’ Guardiani sees this transition as being ‘linked twofold to the binary of tradition and innovation, insofar as I’m firmly convinced that without know-how, no innovation is possible.’ Considering how luxury formal footwear involves a great deal of specialised skills regarding the processing of leathers, producing sneakers in the same factories is no mean feat. First of all, the materials used in sneakers call for an overhaul of the leather traditions of the Le Marche region, which is where Above (both): Ermenegildo Zegna Tiziano sneakers, spring/summer 2018

PHOTO: XXXX

This balance of heritage and innovation is the defining factor of Italy’s fashion scene

48 | F E AT U R E S

Guardiani’s footwear designs are turned into reality. ‘Using textiles as opposed to leathers requires that the checking process is more advanced,’ he explains. ‘When we work with a textile, we have to predict its future behaviour when it is at first simply assembled on the upper sole and then later when it comes to being worn. So, it represents more work, whether that be in terms of research or of production.’ But the work on materials, as with the traditional craft of the cobbler, is just as refined. Added details include modern touches from the latest special treatments to new lace styles

and, most importantly, rubber soles. Above all, it’s in response to a discerning customer’s desire for luxury in the sneaker field that Italy has jumped into action. For Fratelli Rossetti, a family firm founded in 1953 and now run by brothers Diego, Dario and Luca, the key is the combination of new models with traditional shoemaking. Production methods are still anchored in craftsmanship in the brand’s factories in Parabiago, near Milan. ‘Heritage is very important for us and modernisation cannot compromise product quality,’ they explain. ‘Although the factory

Above: Alberto Guardiani Somerset sneakers, spring/summer 2018

S H O P | 49

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) © PAOLO MARCHESI

Sneaker lovers will discover a new style of footwear with its own special seal of excellence

boasts the very latest equipment and organisational style, our shoes are still artisanal. Our skilled artisans colour them by hand and then enrich them by adding signature inserts such as tassels or fringes.’ In view of this alliance between traditional handcraft skills and the new models of production and design, Fratelli Rossetti launched

the New Artisan Project in 2016. The project supports professional up-and-coming creative talents, celebrating the history of handmade products while giving them a contemporary twist. In the resulting ranges, leather variants on sports footwear emerge, and basketball, rugby and football models form part of the collection. It is in this characteristically distinctive way that Italy’s shoe-making industry is forging its own path into the future: sneaker lovers will discover a new style of footwear with its own special seal of excellence

Above (from top): a detail of a Fratelli Rossetti sneaker; one of the brand’s current models

HISTORY IN THE MAKING Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is a Florentine institution. Sally McIlhone meets its director, Eugenio Alphandery 96

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ew brands can trace their history back to the 13th century, but, then again, Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is no ordinary brand. Famed the world over for its fragrances, beauty products, herbal supplements and curative items, the Farmaceutica has rightly become an unmissable stop on any tour of Florence. ‘The story began as far back as 1221 when the Dominicans decided to build their monastery in Florence, where the Officina

Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is still located today,’ explains Eugenio Alphandery, director of this time-honoured epicentre of health, beauty and wellness. ‘The monks started to study and experiment with the properties of healing plants cultivated in the orchards near the monastery.’ Paying tribute to this heritage, the Farmaceutica still nurtures the Santa Maria Novella garden, where it grows many of the raw materials used for its products. One of the key ingredients raised

Above (from left): Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella’s store in Florence in the past, and in the present day

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here is balsamite, described by Alphandery as ‘an aromatic plant well known for its beneficial and calming properties’, which is a key component of two of the Farmaceutica’s traditional favourites: the Pasticche and Acqua di Santa Maria Novella (digestive pastilles and a calming liquid formula originally known as Acqua Antisterica, or anti-hysterics water) that are still available to buy today. As Alphandery explains, ‘Every single Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella product has its own story to tell, starting with the Acqua della Regina created by the friars for Catherine de’ Medici in 1533 on the occasion of her marriage to Henry II of France.’ It is believed that de’ Medici was ‘one of the earliest people to endorse the Dominican brand’ and so, when she was crowned queen of France, ‘the friars created an essence that came to be known as Acqua della Regina (queen’s water) in her honour.’ Still available to buy today, Acqua della Regina was the Farmaceutica’s first fragrance with alcohol and predates the best-selling Acqua di Colonia which continues to be produced in a wide variety of scents, from Frangipane to Iris and Verbena. While honouring the brand’s past, Alphandery ensures the Farmaceutica is constantly thinking about its future. As well as selling historical products the company also ‘makes use of research laboratories where innovative products are created’. Alphandery

Few brands can trace their history back to the 13th century, but then this is no ordinary brand continues: ‘In 1999 the property on Via Reginaldo Giuliani was acquired, a building of 4,000 square metres constructed for a farmers’ association in 1930. This is where tradition is perpetuated and renewed, using raw materials of high quality and following the handicraft processes of the Dominicans helped by modern technology and first-class machinery.’ It is this combination of heritage with modernity that has ensured the Farmaceutica remains relevant for today’s modern visitor. ‘“Tradition and innovation” has been, and still is, the motto of the Officina di Santa Maria Novella, and it is a principle

Above: Pasticche di Santa Maria Novella digestive pastilles

S H O P | 53

Above: Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella director Eugenio Alphandery

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It is famed for its fragrances and more, and has rightly become an unmissable stop in Florence I have tried to apply both to broadening the range of products and to opening stores abroad.’ With over 30 stores worldwide, there is no question that Alphandery’s strategy has been an effective one. The Via della Scala store is the perfect example of how the Farmaceutica balances this blend of history and modernity. As well as being able to invest in the latest innovative products, visitors can also admire the museum sections of the boutique to learn more about the brand’s rich history. ‘The shop on Via della Scala is open to the public and can be visited by

appointment, as can the garden of medical plants and the production premises. On display in the museum sections of the shop are antique pharmacy instruments (thermometers, mortars, moulds for soap), glassware (bottles, alembics) and one of the most complete and interesting collections of ceramic apothecary jars in Tuscany, made in Montelupo between the closing decades of the 16th and the first quarter of the 17th century. Also on show in the museum are the old machinery and tools used in the manufacture of products.’ Though these historical displays are an

Above (from left): Acqua di Colonia Lana, the brand’s newest fragrance; one of the museum sections in the Via della Scala boutique

S H O P | 55

obvious draw, Alphandery is keen to frame the Farmaceutica as a contemporary company rather than an ancient relic. ‘Even though a small part of the shop is devoted to this, I have never regarded the Officina as a museum, but as a company oriented towards innovation that has its roots in history while continually updating its contents and carefully avoiding the

risk of turning into a showcase of the past.’ Thanks to its unique product selection, captivating heritage and investment in the brand’s future in the form of its hi-tech production facility, Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella ensures it is so much more than a museum piece. Instead, it remains a reason for visitors to return to Florence time and time again

Above (from top right): inside the Farmaceutica’s research laboratory; the brand’s craftsmanship; Acqua di Colonia Melograno, a unisex fragrance launched in 1965

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ITALY GUIDE

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Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Italy with a look at its cities’ must-visit destinations. Discover the best contemporary art galleries in Rome and take a traditional gondola ride on the waterways of Venice (pictured). Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our welltravelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/italy.

ROME - 60

MILAN - 68

VENICE - 75

FLORENCE - 81

58 | I TA LY G U I D E

SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY ‘Florence’s rich culture is apparent in everything from its art to its ice cream’ - HANNAH LEWIS, SHOP’S FEATURES EDITOR

PHOTOS: HANNAH LEWIS; FANI MARI; RUAIRIDH PRITCHARD; CARLOTA ZHANG

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PAROSH The spring/summer 2018 collection from womenswear label Parosh, with its particularly appealing full-length dresses, slogan T-shirts and kimono-style tops, is full of colour, playful prints and floral motifs. Founder Paolo Rosello started his fashion career by customising vintage pieces; in a nod to these beginnings, Parosh’s contemporary designs are often finished with vintage-inspired elements. Parosh, Via Frattina 69, 00187 Rome, +39 06 679 7446, parosh.com

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AS CH

● HAMMERSMITH

VIA DEL CORSO

RG AM

VICO LO S CIAR

● OMAI NOW OR NEVER STELLA À 'U M ILT ● ZETA A DE LL VIA DI SAN MA RCELLO

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA BE

● SPADA

VITE

● DOPPELGANGER ● EDAS

VICOLO DORIA

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VIA DEL CORSO

CASADEI ●

VIA DEL CORSO

V I A LATA

FLORSHEIM ●

R AVITA

VI A F RATTINA

VIA DEL LA

Piazza Venezia VI A D EL C A

LOUIS VUITTON ●

● CARSHOE

GUTTERIDGE ● MIRIADE ● YAMAMAY ●

V IA DI SANTA MARIA IN VIA

BARONE ●

OYSHO ●

VATURI ● LA CONCERIA ●

● C’ART ● OTTICA F. LA BARBERA ● SARTORIA ROSSI

ZUIKI ● SPADA ●

VIA DEL CORSO

MOOD ● ROBERTO ANTICOLI ●

CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● ● BRACCIALINI AERONAUTICA MILITARE ● BOGGI ●

TIM ●

AU DIA

COCCINELLE ● ● DAMIANO PRESTA BE TWEEN ● PIQUADRO ● ● FURLA ● BOGGI ● MASSIMO DUTTI LA FEL TRINELLI ●

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA SAN CL

● ZARA

Galleria Alberto Sordi

DANIELLE ●

NON A

R AVITA

CELIO ●

Piazza di San Silvestro

Piazza del Parlamento

Piazza Colonna

● PASQUALE BRUNI

LUXURY OUTLET ●

HOYA ●

VIA BOR GOG

VI A D EL C A

VIA DELLE CONVE RT IT E

DAN JOHN ●

T TI

● Via del Corso (South)

● PIKOLINOS ● MISS SIXTY

VIA DEL PARLAMENTO

POMELLATO ●

G A M B ER

● TISSOT ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ● CALZEDONIA ● MANGO ● SWATCH

INTIMISSIMI ●

OND O

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

● SAINT LAURENT ● AUDEMARS PIGUET

VIA DE L

VIA DEL CORSO

LUXURY OUTLET ● 7 CAMICIE ● SISLEY ● DAVID HAMILTON ● CORNER ● CARPISA ● PRIMADONNA ● HAUSMANN & CO ● ACCESSORIZE ● PUMA ●

● BONPOINT

● BOTTEGA VENETA

VIA BELSIANA

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

VIA C OTHER PEOPLES ●

● SWAROVSKI ● INTIMISSIMI UOMO ● YAMAMAY ● FALCONERI ● PATRIZIA PEPE ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● NARA CAMICIE ● KIKO NON A VIA BOR GOG ● SANDRO FERRONE ● TEZENIS ● G.D.V. ● MARC O’POLO ● COLONNA ● LUISA SPAGNOLI VIA FRATTINA POLO RALPH ● LAUREN ● YAMAMAY ● OTTICA EFRATI ● ALDO ● WYCON DISNEY ● STORE ● GRILLI

ZIO

N D O TT

OBOR ●

VI A CO

CRUCIANI & BELLA ●

● LIU JO

FER RAR I ● STORE

L L I FENDI ●

GIOIELLERIA CRISTIANA ●

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ● FRANK LO ●

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA BELSIANA

● TWIN-SET ● ZARA ● EXOTICA

H&M ●

VIA

● Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

66 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Via del Tritone, Piazza di San Silvestro, Via di San Claudio & Via delle Convertite E

● BEDETTI

Piazza di San Silvestro

VIA D ELLE C ON VE

MOUN TAIN ● AFFA IRS STOR E

● MELLUSO

● STONEFLY

● MUJI

SB LEATHER ● SHOP ● SAXOH’S

● REMAX

● GIOIELLERIA

VI A DEL TRITONE

LARGO CHIGI

RT ITE

DI CORI ● BOX 51 ●

MR MUZIO ● TRITONE FURS ●

FUSARO ● VODAFONE ● B&H ●

RIMOWA ●

D-STORE ● TIGER ● SPADA ● ALTARIVA ●

Piazza di San Claudio

ETT V I A D E L P OZ Z

LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

● MEDICI

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANO ●

LIMONI ● ● GERARD

● SETTIMIO MIELI

GERA RD ● ● + VISTA ● TRIS

L AU DIO

● GEMME E DIAMANTI

● UNOPIÚ

Galleria Alberto Sordi

ME RC ED

TIMBERLAND ●

● CARHARTT

VISION OPTIKA ●

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA DI SA N C

VI A D EL LA

TIT E

TECH IT EASY ● SUPERDRY ● STONEFLY ● NAPAPIJRI ● NEW BALANCE ●

VIA DELLE C O NV ER

● Via del Tritone TI DAN JOHN ●

VI A ZU

BLUE SAND ● CLIÒ ●

CC H EL

DELSEY ● GATTEGNA ● ALLEMBY 101 ● UNITED COLORS OF BENETTON ●

CLARKS ●

SOUVENIR SHOP ● KRUDER ●

ELL

WHITE MOOD ●

AC I

JOELA ●

CLASS ●

MICHAEL F ● SEPHORA ●

I DU

ESTHER ● MISS ROBERTA ●

VIA

Rinascente

VIA DEL TRITONE TI VI ER IS

AS IS

VI TI

● PINOCCHIO

SANDRO ● FERRONE

● DOPPELGANGER

V I A D E G L I AV I G N O N E S I

● VALLI

● ADELE ALTMAN

● MAX & CO

● PRONOVIAS

● SAMSONITE

● OVS INDUSTRY

● R BAZZOCCHI CASUCCIO & ● SCALERA

VIA DEL TRITONE

BARBERINI FONTANA DI TREVI Piazza Barberini

SHOP TAX FREE APP This season’s ultimate travel companion is the new SHOP TAX FREE app. Our city maps will take you to the best Tax Free Shopping destinations in Italy, including the world’s leading brands and high-street names. After your shopping day is over, use the app to find nearby city centre Refund Offices and track the progress

of your refund. Don’t miss a visit to our new VIP Lounges in Milan, Rome and Venice. Once your passport details are stored, your Tax Free Forms can be autofilled with one click. The SHOP TAX FREE app is available in English, Chinese and Russian; download it free from Google Play or the App Store.

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

Department Store

Metro

E NG L IS H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE... Visit globalblue.com, our recently relaunched website, for the latest luxury shopping and travel stories, updated daily Погрузитесь в мир роскошного шоппинга и увлекательных путешествий, посетив наш обновлённый сайт – globalblue.ru 访问我们近日新版上线的网站 globalblue.cn, 了解最新奢华购物旅游信息，每日更新

SHOP

@GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- GlobalBlue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue @shopmagazine_

68 | I TA LY G U I D E

MILAN ● Corso Venezia CAMPAGNA ● BISBIGLI ● CULTI ● ITALIAN INDEPENDENT ● RAIMONDI DI PETTINAROLI ● MOSCA ● MATIA'S ●

● RENCO

VIA

SEN

DE BERNARDI ● OTTICA VENEZIA ● LIVIANI ● MADINA ● FARMACIA ● FORNASETTI ●

AT O

COR SO V EN EZIA

GIÒ COLLETTO ● THUN ● PAR 5 ● TOMBOLINI ● BELSIRE ● THE FLEXX ● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ●

Tartuﬁ & Friends ● MESAMIS

MALLONI ●

● ARMANI CASA ● STONE ISLAND ● ADD ● ALFIERI ST.JOHN ● WOLFORD ● GAGÀ MILANO DOLCE & GABBANA ● DOLCE & GABBANA BARBIERE ● ● ROY ROGERS FLAVIO CASTELLANI ● ● DIEGO M PHILIPP PLEIN ● ● ULTIMA EDIZIONE NERO GIARDINI ● ● EMPRESA NERO GIARDINI JUNIOR ● ● NOMINATION DOLCE & GABBANA ● CHRISTOFLE COS ● ● ALBERTO ● GUARDIANI MORESCHI ● ● PAOLO TONALI WOOLRICH ● ● RED VALENTINO ● LOVE MOSCHINO CROMIA ● ● M MISSONI ● FRANKIE MORELLO V IA ● HOME ZARA B

V IA

MON

Z IA

V IA

SA N

T ’A N

CO RSO V E N E

DRE

LUCIANO PADOVAN ● DOLCE & GABBANA ●

TEN

AGU T TA

APO

L EO

SAN BABILA

Piazza San Babila

● Piazza San Babila & Corso Matteotti V

VIA GU BA

VEN EZI A COR SO

Metro Gelateria

RTO

Non-Global Blue Retailer Bar

CE NTA

’O ALL

Global Blue Retailer Restaurant

A● IT TA L E ● M ID ARTE ARTE ● NA LIA

VIA SA

O ● LE G

TRO

P LY I SUP IE L L U IT G IO ●S F IL A ● ICA N B A BC I ● S ANNUC ●V

PIE SAN

VIA BORGOGNA

FO N TA

S● FLO N ● A E PL

NFORTE CORSO MO

● SALMOIRAGHI VIGANÒ ● RAY- BAN ● EDDY MONETTI ● BROSWAY ● FLORSHEIM ● BOGGI ● MILANO OFFICIAL STORE BALDININI ● TREND ● CAMICISSIMA ● DIESEL ● GUESS

● ESCADA ● JUST CAVALLI

VIA

● UNIFOR ● RODO ● MORONI GOMMA

● BORBONESE

SAN BABILA

Piazza San Carlo

LUC

NE EO OL

LIVIANA CONTI ●

P NA TE ON M

BOSS STORE ● ROBERTO FESTA ●

A TT

VIA DODO ● FABBRICA PELLETTERIE MILANO ●

Sant’Ambroeus Bar

MAZZOLARI ● TIMBERLAND ● NEGRI FIRENZE ● ALDO BRUÈ ● HARMONT & BLAINE ●

FERUTDIN ZAKIROV ●

DE MATTIA ● PASABAHCE ● PIKENZ ●

JECKERSON ● ALVIERO MARTINI ● SARA GIUNTI ● GRAVATI ● CANALI ●

CORSO MATTEO TTI

DE PADOVA ●

S H O P | 69

FIDENZA VILLAGE Just over 60 minutes from Milan and Bologna, in the heart of Italy’s Food Valley, visitors will find more than 120 boutiques from Italian and international brands offering reductions of up to 70% on the recommended retail price. With nine cafés and restaurants to choose from, free Wi-Fi throughout the village and on-site Tax Free Shopping services, the outlet village is a perfect place to spend an afternoon shopping some of Italy’s best brands. Fidenza Village, Via San Michele Campagna, 43036 Fidenza, +39 0524 33551, fidenzavillage.com

● Corso Buenos Aires VI

AT I

ST AL

MUTINELLI CAPPELLI ● FOSSIL ● ● H&M BLUKIDS ● SOLARIS ● KIKO ● ● SAN PIETRO MILANO PEPE JEANS ● ● DOCKSTEPS STEFANEL ●

DOUGLAS ● PERSONA ● ALTIERI ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

● F.LLI SOLENNE GIOIELLI

● MILANO HOUSE OF CASHMERE

RT AV

● TOMMY HILFIGER

Piazza Guglielmo Oberdan

PORTA VENEZIA VI

L EL

PIG

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PANDORA ● L'OCCITANE ● ● FURLA ELENA MIRÒ ● ● RITA BOUTIQUE STROILI ORO ● ● LIU JO GEOX ● ● OLTRE AL SWAROVSKI ● ● MORELLATO ET YAMAMAY ● ● DANIEL & MAYER UN Grom IS ● ANTONY MORATO IA ● TWIN SET FOOT LOCKER ● VI ● LEVI'S NARA CAMICIE ● AL ● AERONAUTICA MILITARE PUMA ● AZ ZA ● KIPLING CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● RO ● CARRERA JEANS PA ● NIKE MILANO LA ZZ I D-MAIL ● Piazza Santa ZAGO COSMETICS ● ● PIQUADRO Francesca Romana GAMESTOP ● ● GUESS KIDS V ● GUESS STRADIVARIUS ●

● FORTELA

OV AN

70 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, Piazza del Duomo & Via Torino I TA

GH AR TA M

AN AS VI

● OXUS ● CHANEL

CORSO VITTORIO EM ANUELE DUOMO

CORSO VI T TOR IO EMANUELE

A PE SP CK A D ● AR

ZA DU

●

MONDADORI ●

UNITED COLORS OF BENETTON●

P.7 4

TIFFANY & CO ● ● FERRARI STORE Autogrill- Terrazza Aperol ● GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE CURRADO ● GRIMOLDI ● RUGGERI ● LA FARMACIA CARLO ERBA ●

Cordusio

Pasticceria Marchesi

SARTORIA ROSSI ● CIELO 1914 ●

● PRADA

VIA MENGONI

MASSIMO DUTTI ● STEFANEL ● NARA CAMICIE ● CADÉ ●

GA L LERIA VIT TORIO EMAN U ELE

VIA MENGO NI

● BORSALINO ● MONTBLANC ● MEJANA ● PIUMELLI ● CHURCH’S LUISA SPAGNOLI ● ● NOLI ● BRIC’S LEO PIZZO ● ● GUCCI PRADA ● DANTE CORDUSIO ● GIORGIO ARMANI ● LOUIS VUITTON Piazza TOD’S ● SWAROVSKI ● VERSACE ●

VIA S.PELLICO

COMUNE DI MILANO URBAN CENTRE ● RIZZOLI ● ANDREW’S TIES ●

Piazza Del Duomo

● OY ● S ● LUIGI VERGA I ● NT HO TT I V E IQ IC MIS ● SW GA M UE T C OR SIM A ● EE VE NA M ● TR D I NA L ZE IA T RD U ● E EL 'S ● W E E G SE CA R A DO M P i a S S E I O I M A AY ● ● N C ar z z S EL C ● AM IA CR GE MP ET ● i a a S P O LO ● OX E R IC F B R ● I O E ● SA el an T ● DE OT t t LM ● LO AW r a d a S OI M I e ● AN GU CKE OROLOGERIA RA P L P ● M R GO AL GH UL AN M AB ● LUIGI VERGA ● NI CS I & L & DO UJI ● BA KE VI BE R A ● TH S ● A G ● T KI AN R & OR VE ● ● EH B VI RG OD E GU L Ò ● ● C A E Y ● K AR ES ’S ● SA W ● K IK PI LIO S N OR TA T ● PI E Y O SA ● M KS AC M K B E LL EZ AU Y CE IE O● W ENI RI S N I ● YA SO DI EIJ S ● LIO R L RI XI O ● MA MA Z E ● T M E ● A ● OT RC A VI ● TER TIC O Y RA A ● TR AL O NOBA CO N Y VA R E L ● TT LO FL A A ● NT .FU O’ RE FE ON G ITALIA MISSORI RR EL A Z IZ A● AN L A ZI TE

Piazza Pio XI UT

●

VIA MAZZINI

VIA

DEL

N L' U

ION

CAMBIAGHI For spring/summer 2018 Italian heritage brand Cambiaghi has teamed up with newcomer Vibi Venezia to create a capsule collection of bags and shoes. Venetian footwear label Vibi Venezia reworked Cambiaghi’s Lola tote and Luna bucket bags using striped canvas, while the long-established Milanese bag Global Blue Retailer Metro

and hat brand has given Vibi Venezia’s slippers a makeover with a leather trim. Combining the identity of both labels, this capsule collection of accessories captures the essence of an Italian summer to perfection. grc Cambiaghi, Via Borgonuovo 14, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7862 1170, cambiaghimilano.com

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

Café

Bar

12 ï¬&#x201A;oors of food and fashion

72 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Corso Vittorio Emanuele

VIA DURINI

UEL

VIA PATTA

Piazza Del Duomo

VIT

RSO

● GAP ● ADIDAS ● TEZENIS ● PULL & BEAR ● SEPHORA

R IO

● NARA CAMICIE ● LIBERO MILANO

V IT TO

E RIO

SAN BABILA Piazza San Babila ● SISLEY

INTIMISSIMI ● CELIO ● TISSOT ●

● URBAN OUTFITTERS

Rinascente

H&M ● ROCCA 1794 ●

OTTICA VANZINA ● Y NOT ? ●

CO R S O

● ALCOTT-GUTTERIDGE ● CARPISA P.34 ● FALCONERI & OTHER STORIES ● ● INTIMISSIMI INGLOT ● ● LUSH MISS SIXTY ● ● Signorvino NARA CAMICIE ● ● FOOTBALL TEAM ● OD STORE FURLA ●

● BERSHKA MAX MARA ● ● MANGO ● Excelsior P.36 MAX&CO ● ● KIKO PENNYBLACK ● ● MOTIVI I BLUES ● ● WYCON MARELLA ● ● YAMAMAY MARINA RINALDI ●

PA O

ZARA MEN ● ZARA ● CALZEDONIA ●

SAN

● OYSHO ● LUISA SPAGNOLI KIKO ● SWATCH ● ● MILAN MEGA STORE ● MICHAEL KORS GOBBI ● ● PINKO MARILENA ● ● DISNEY SWAROVSKI ● ● LIU JO ● THE HIGHLINE ● FOOT LOCKER

VIA

MARIUCCIA ●

Piazza San Carlo

MASSIMO DUTTI ● GEOX ●

● RIMOWA

UNITED COLORS OF BENETTON ●

CLARKS ●

Piazza San Fedele

7 FOR ALL MANKIND

PHOTO: (LEFT) ANDREW PARSONS I/IMAGES

This season 7 For All Mankind presents a range of jeans for men and women in a variety of washes from dark through to light blue. Other variations include distressed and bleached styles. Alternatives to jeans include chinos for men and classic denim miniskirts for women, all of which can be paired with a plain white tee, a chambray shirt or a denim jacket from the spring/ summer 2018 collection. As ever, the Californian brand can be counted on for premium-quality denim and a great fit. 7 For All Mankind, Via Alessandro Manzoni 43, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4950 4361, 7forallmankind.eu FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 74

Global Blue Retailer Department Store

Non-Global Blue Retailer Metro

Featured In This Issue Bar

S H O P | 73

● Via Pietro Verri, Piazza Meda & Via Sant’Andrea MOSCHINO ●

VIA DELLA SPIGA

ROGER VIVIER ● BOTTEGA VENETA ● AGNONA ● CHURCH’S ● GIVENCHY ● CARLO ELEUTERI ● MAISON MARGIELA ● BORSALINO ● LE SILLA ● ERES ●

● BERLUTI

VIA SANT’ANDREA

VIA GESÙ

SAINT LAURENT ● MIU MIU ●

JIMMY CHOO ● CASADEI ●

● JIL SANDER NAVY ● PREMIATA ● HERNO ● GIAMBATTISTA VALLI ERIKA CAVALLINI ● SEMI- COUTURE ● CHANEL ● IRIS ● STUART WEITZMAN ● BANNER ● CHIARA BONI ● CESARE PACIOTTI ● DORIANI VIA B AG U T TA ● MISSONI

VIA M O NTENAPOLEONE ● PIAGET

PATEK PHILIPPE - PISA ● VACHERON CONSTANTIN - PISA ● PISA OROLOGERIA ●

PIA MARIANI ● TUMI ● TOM FORD ● JULIPET ● CANALI ● BALDININI ● ELEVENTY ● PUNTO OTTICO ●

● ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ● JIL SANDER ● FREDDY ● LA MARTINA ● DSQUARED2 ● PALADINI

● FRIEDERIC MALLE

Piazza Meda

CASTELLANI ●

1. N’Ombra de Vin In the city’s fashionable Brera district is one of Milan’s hidden gems. N’Ombra de Vin is a winebar and shop housed in an underground wine cellar, filled with some of the finest wines in Milan, and not to be missed. N’Ombra de Vin, Via San Marco 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 659 9650, nombradevin.it

● GUCCI

VI A PIETRO VERRI

ETRO PROFUMI ● CRUCIANI ● JOHN RICHMOND ● VIA BIG LI ICEBERG ●

TOP 3... MILAN WINE BARS

● Via San Pietro all’Orto

2. Signorvino With arguably one of the best terraces in Milan, Signorvino offers patrons some of the most stunning views of the Duomo, as well as one of the city’s best stocked wine shops. Share a bottle on the terrace, and buy a few more to take home. Signorvino, Piazza del Duomo 22, 20122 Milan, +39 02 8909 2539, signorvino.com

● ISAIA BOGLIOLI ●

V IA

MASCHIO ●

● ALCANTARA

SAN

PIN-UP ●

POMELLATO ●

● BAGUTTA ● IL GUFO

P IE

COR SO M ATT EOT TI

TRO

VERSACE COLLECTION ●

’O R ALL

● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH ZEPTER ● INTERNATIONAL MONDADODRI MULTICENTER ● ● BROOKS BROTHERS SAMSONITE ● ● PRONOVIAS MAURO LEONE ● YOUNG VERSACE ●

CONTIGO ●

● SOUL LIGHT DESIGN ● SUPERGA ● SANDRO FERRONE ● MARCO FOR PETS ONLY ● BOSE ●

CASHMIRINO ●

globalblue.com

RSO

OR IT T

IO E

3.Vino al Vino As soon as visitors enter Vino al Vino, they are surrounded by some of the country’s finest wines. With shelves filled with hundreds of bottles lining the walls, guests can enjoy a glass from any bottle of their choosing. Vino al Vino, Via Gaspare Spontini 11, 20131 Milan, + 39 02 2941 4928, enotecavinoalvino.it

74 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Via Montenapoleone & Via della Spiga I ALL ● SAH R A 7 FO R ● 72 M A N K IN D VILEBREQ UIN ● N I P. A R M A ZO NI 31 CASTELLO D’ORO ● I N A N M BYBLOS ● ● MONTENAPOLEONE A N ZO COLOMBO ● V IA M PIQUADRO ● NT ● GA FRETTE ● 7 ON ER I R IB LU LC P.3 LO FA DE NICOLA ● ● ● ● EL IA NI VE RT UA ● GUSELLA ● SA ● CO RNO GN NK BO UT IQ UE - PI PI ZE ● DO X EG IL ● RO LE ER M EN DE SI GN NE LL I ● NO TT I LO CU CI NC ● EP PE ZA EM PO LI RG O SP ES SO BR UN EL M ON TB LA ● ● GI US ER IE DI HO GA NA ● V IA BO ● VE TR AN PI LO RO RO SS I ● GA MO PU CC I ● EM ILI O LVAT OR E F ER RA SE RG IO ● SA SALVINI ● CELINE ● NT IN O e ● VA LE ANGELO FUSCO ● Gl ob al Blu VIA SANTO SPIRIT O SWATCH ● Lo un ge LANVIN ● BALDININI ● ● IL BISO NTE HOGAN ● ● ALBERTA FERRETTI P.40 BILLIONAIRE ● MICHELA BRUNI REICHLIN ● ● MALO KRIZIA● BUCCELLATI ● RUBINACCI ● MARIANO PHILIPP PLEIN ● AKRIS ● CUSI GIOIELLIERI ● ● ACQUA DI PARMA DEVI KROELL ● VIA GESÙ VHERNIER ● & CO ● TIFFANY FABIO GAVAZZI ● ● CARTIER LOEWE ● ERIKA CAVALLINI ● ● PAUL & SHARK COACH ● ● LA PERLA FRANCK MULLER ITALIA INDEPENDENT ● GENEVE ● BREGUET ● ● HERMÈS RICHARD MILLE ● Illy Caﬀe ● ● MARNI POMELLATO ● RIVOLTA DAL ● DIOR GIADA ● 1883 MILANO ● ● BURBERRY CURIEL ● ● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS FAY ● ASPESI ● ● VENINI VERSACE ● POLLINI ● ● ALBA ELOISA Pasticceria Marchesi ● MIU MIU ● ● DAMIANI HENRY BEGUELIN ● OMEGA ●

Piazza Croce Rossa

VIA SANT’ANDREA

SCAVIA ● Cova COLOMBO VIA ● PRADA DONNA DELLA SPIGA ● ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN SICIS JEWELS ● ● FEDELI RED AND BLUE TORY BURCH ● MONCLER ENFANT ● ● BALLY CAMPOMAGGI ● ● SABBADINI BRACCIALINI ● ● ROBERTO CAVALLI MARCO BICEGO ● TATRAS ● ● CAMPER CAR SHOE ● ● SANTONI SPIGA UNO ● CHIMENTO ● ● PRADA UOMO FALCONERI ● ● AUDEMARS PIGUET ORCIANI ● FAUSTO PUGLISI ● ● DOLCE & GABBANA

VIA DEL L A SPIG A

VIA M ONTENAPOLEONE

LARUSMIANI ● GUCCI ● ETRO ● NARA CAMICIE ● HOGAN ● SUTOR MANTELLASSI ● FENDI CASA ● FENDI ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● MONCLER ● IWC ● SIMONETTA RAVIZZA BY ANNABELLA ● JAEGER LE-COULTRE ● OFFICINE PANERAI ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ●

● RUCOLINE ● MOORER ● LES COPAINS ● MAISON MARGIELA ● SERMONETA GLOVES ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● FABIANA FILIPPI ● ROSATO ● I PINCO PALLINO ● SERAPIAN ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● ALAN JOURNO ● MEGA FASHION

VIA D EL L A SPIG A

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE

V I A VERRI

● PAKERSON ● MONNA LISA ● PRETTY BALLERINAS ● PIAZZA SEMPIONE ● ROCCO BAROCCO ● SARABANDA

● GIORGIO ARMANI ● LOUIS VUITTON ● BULGARI

V R SO

● NILU FAR ● V-GRASS ● Nº 30 MILANO ● L.B.M. 1911 ● BLUMARINE ● CHLOÉ ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● TOD’S ● SPORTMAX ● PRADA

● DSQUARED2 ● CHOPARD ● MICHAEL KORS ● PASQUALE BRUNI ● PEUTEREY ● LONGCHAMP ● GIÒ MORETTI ● ERMANNO SCERVINO ● DOLCE & GABBANA

ENE

ZIA

PECK

PHOTO: © GIOVANNI PANAROTTO FOTOGRAFO

One of the most exclusive food shopping destinations in Milan, Peck is the ultimate place to invest in edible souvenirs. Founded in 1883, this historic deli offers everything from chocolate to pâté, oils and truffles from some of the most acclaimed breeders, dairies and other producers in Italy. Peck, Via Spadari 9, 20123 Milan, +39 02 802 3161, peck.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 70

Global Blue Retailer Metro

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Lounge

Café

Restaurant

S H O P | 75

VENICE ● Calle Larga XXII Marzo & Salizada San Moisè

C . BAR

SSO

Featured In This Issue

ARE

PHOTO: VERITY HOGAN

E E L IN ●C O ANN O E R M E R V IN C 5 S ● .3 P 'S L LO RCH R E U N H BRU ELLI ● ● C E R N IE H IN ONI ●V CUC S IS ● M M IA N I ● A & CO ●D NY IF FA

O●

ALL LE V

AT R O

Il Papiro is a place of pilgrimage for lovers of artisanal products and is famous for its exquisitely crafted stationery. Its Venice store offers a striking selection of beautiful journals with marbled covers, diaries and albums, as well as papers and place cards that can be hand-engraved on request. Il Papiro, Calle del Piovan, San Marco 2764, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 3055, ilpapirofirenze.it

OISÈ

CAL

● CHANEL ● TAG HEUER ● CHANEL ● LORO PIANA

Z OZ

DIOR ● RENÈ CAOVILLA ● A. CODOGNATO ● HERMÈS ●

A SA

ETR

IL PAPIRO

Global Blue Lounge

SA LIZ A D

GALLERIA DELL’ ASCENSIONE ●

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ●

C . D. T E

C C HI

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

C A LL E P EDRO

● ARMANI

● CONTINI GALLERIA D'ARTE

● BURBERRY ● LA COUPOLE UOMO ● MALO

● GUCCI ● DOLCE & GABBANA

A R ZO

● TOD’S

X II M

● FABIANA FILIPPI

RGA X

PRADA DONNA ● VERSACE ● MICHAEL KORS ●

MONCLER ● CHANEL ●

POMELLATO ●

MONTBLANC ● FEDON ●

LE L A

MARINA E SUSANNA SENT ●

G lobal Blue L ounge

JESURUM ●

PAUL & SHARK ● ZORA FOREVER ●

LA COUPOLE DONNA ● SERAPIAN ● FAIDRA HANNA ●

CAL

Campo S. Moisè

OMEGA ● JIMMY CHOO ● ● SISLEY LOUIS O ZER IA OT T ● VUITTON FREZ L RID E DE BULGARI ● CALL GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ● I FRATELLI ROSSETTI ● R T IR CARTIER ● 3 MA C . D .1 BOTTEGA VENETA ● MIU MIU ● PRADA UOMO ●

FRETTE ● ● RA ZA A● RES E M P A C R I ● BALLIN M D I ● PROJECT ● FEN

76 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Piazza San Marco

LEONCINII ●

VENINI ●

PAULY ●

ANTICA MURRINA ● VENEZIA

JUNIOR ●

Piazza San Marco

U- BOAT ● OFFICINA BERNARDI ● FOPE GIOIELLI ● OLIVETTI ● AM ● FOTORECORD ● ORTOLANI ● MODOLO ● SANSOVINO ● I MARKUS ● BR HUGO BOSS ● AB DEGANI ● IF BOTTEGA D'ARTE SAN MARCO ●

AD ● CAMILLA ●

Gran Caﬀè Quadri

BONCOMPAGNI ● ROBERTO COIN ● OLGA ASTA ● AD ●

Caﬀè Lavena

CAL

● VISCONTI ORLANDINI ● ARCADIA ● BOLDRIN ● ENNIO ● JAEGER-LECOULTRE ● 66 SESSANTASEI ● SALVADORI ● MARTINUZZI ● NARDI

Caﬀè Florian

● CENEDESE ● TREVISAN ● IWC ● ROLEX ● TREVISAN R.S. ● OFFICINE PANERAI ● GALLERIA RAVAGNAN ● CHOPARD ● FREY WILLE ● G. PAGAN ● SAN MARCO 55

L‘A S LE L A R G A D E

CEN

ZERIA

S IO

FREZ

Featured In This Issue

Café

P.80

PALESA GALLERY ● ARCHIMEDE SEGUSO ● OTTICA PENZO ● AD ● GIOIELLERIA SAN MARCO ●

IS È

N MO A SA ZAD

SA LI

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Retailer

● FABRIS AUDEMARS ● PIGUET ● TOKATZIAN ● SERENDIPITY ● BEVILACQUA SUV-VENETIAN ● BEADS MP HA GC O N DA N O ● LG IO R AN È UR ● IR ES IA M ● D NEZ E ●V I IN D AN RL ● O S CO E ● V U LY A P ●

Piazzetta dei Leoncini

VESCO

Home to some of the finest silver and gold jewellery in Venice, Vesco’s characterful boutique on Piazza San Marco is a must-visit. Drawing on decades of experience, the store stocks only the finest pieces, and its members of staff are committed to finding the perfect item for every visitor. Vesco, Piazza San Marco, San Marco 75-76, 30124 Venice, +39 041 520 3853

Salvadori Diamond Atelier Piazza San Marco, 67 - Venezia Galleria Porti, 2 - Vicenza

www.salvadori-venezia.com/blog

78 | I TA LY G U I D E

IL RIDOTTO With only nine tables Il Ridotto may be small, but its food leaves a big impression. Awarded a Michelin star in 2013, the restaurant is a hit with foodies and locals alike. With a strong focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients and distinctive flavours, the seafood focused menu is one of the most mouth-watering in Venice. Typical dishes such as lobster with Aperol, strawberries and raspberries, roasted pilgrim scallops, and guinea hen ravioli with black truffle mean this tiny restaurant is guaranteed to serve a meal to remember.

Il Ridotto, Campo Santi Filippo e Giacomo, Castello 4509, 30122 Venice, +39 041 520 8280, ilridotto.com

● Mercerie di San Salvador, Capitello, San Zulian & dell’Orologio A LV AD

T FONDACO ● DEI TEDESCHI CA RI ER EC O N EO CK B T R E A LC T L E ● F OO CR A ● F SE TIC ● 2 'S VE P.3 IA CA D U KO O R PI ● ● K IV I C T A D R O TE ● QU I P LL ●

TW I IC NA A M R A BR N SE A N C A O CC T ● TO MIC A ● VA E LI VE NI ● AP NE ● TO IE ZI M AS TR A SC A ● SI A ● M B B A O DB A L L U PA L U LY ● L Z DIN T T ● I I P I I L E R N I ●● NK I O ● ●

MATERIALMENTE VENEZIA ● FROLLO ●

TA G

L’O

● ● C ● L RU ● E XU N A CIA GU CL C N ● ID US RE I ● L OR IV A Z ● C YR EN E IO ● M OC A NI IO ● OT U R CIN TT ● YA T I A N E L IC ● M M C O L A ● L A U R A MA F I N E ● D E G A N A O T V E P. ● L E S I U C O Y O G N I 36 A L DA G U I A I N R A CE VE D U FA A L FI A NI CA BR FE CE D 'A I S RR UZ OS ZI TA

S. S

723 ● M E FABRIS RICAMI ● R C LA PARIGINA ● E R BIALETTI ● I E

E SP

CH IE

● MACRÌ

’OR EL

BUCCELLATI ●

MANDARINA DUCK ● POLLINI ● ROVOLETTO ●

OG IO

Non-Global Blue Retailer

CA BE RL OT R O F R AT TO SS EL ● E T LA T I ●L I PE ● RL MA A● FU X& RL CO ● A EM M A ● PA ● AL X DI MA NDO ● RA RA SO ● MA GN ID R IN ’O R AR GR O● CA IN A ● D OSS MP LD P ER I ● T E V E N O IN T ● OS IS AT T E O ●S WA TCH ●T ● C RUSS A AL ZE RDI DO N IA

Global Blue Retailer

IE D

● PELLETTERIA

● GUCCI ● VIVICI ● OTTICA VENEZIANA LA GONDOLA ● ● SOLARIS LACOSTE ● ● CARGASACCHI PANDORA ●

● BATA

● SWAROVSKI

A LV AD

ACCESSORIZE ● L’OCCITANE ●

● MATTIUZZI ● CROMIA

● IL CORALLO ● ROMA 1947

MARELLA●

LA PARIGINA ● N JB GUANTI ● Z U ASTOLFO ● L I A LIBER ● N R. TIOZZO ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

● SPAZIO A ● MORELLATO ● KIEHL'S

Featured In This Issue

Piazzetta dei Leoni

I Sense Your Essence

San Marco, 110

Venezia

www.officinabernardi.com

80 | I TA LY G U I D E

1234567890

● Murano TA EN AM ND FO

VETRERIA ARTISTICA LA FENICE ●

SIGNORETTO LAMPADARI ●

IDEA MURANO ●

MAZZEGA GLASS FACTORY ● MARCHETTI MARIA ● CAMPAGNOL E SALVADORE ● PESCE PESCE ● FIORE FIORE ● COLLELLI & OTTERDAHL ●

RA I FO ND AM EN

O AN

ANTICA VETRERIA ● GIOIELLI R.T. MURANO ● NEROPACO ● VETRI D'ARTE RAVANELLO ● VENINI ●

TA M

IP NC SA MO RA

● FERRO VETRO ● APA GIOIELLI ● F.LLI MORETTI ● MOSAICI DONÀ MURANO ● SEGUSO VIRO ● COSE COSÌ ● MIRIAM ● LAMBERTI RAFFAELLA ● VETRI G. BASTIANELLO ● MORI SNC

ARTIZ ● SOFFIO DI VETRO ● EFFE DUE MURANO ● PICCOLI PENSIERI ● DOMUS VETRI D’ARTE ●

FO ND AM EN TA DE IV ET

● L'ARTE MURANESE ● F & M BALLARIN ● M. CAVAGNIS OROVETRO ● ● NASON MORETTI MURANO IL VETRO DI FUGA ● ● ORIGINAL MURANO SCHIAVON MURANO ● ● BOTTEGA DEL VETRO CESARE TOFFOLO ● ● ARTIGIANATO VENEZIANO LUCEVETRO ● ● VETROMANIA BAROVIER & TOSO ● ● ART BIJOUX GIAMPAOLO NASON VETRI ARTISTICI ● ● ANDREA 2000 FRANCO SCHIAVON GALLERY ● ● CARLO MORETTI VETRERIA COLONNA ● ●C&G CESARE SENT ● ● LINEA MURANO ART SCHIAVON ● ● FORNACE GINO MAZZUCCATO CAM ● ● VETRERIA ARTISTICA GRITTI

VENINI Founded in 1921, Venini is one of Italy’s longest running producers of artistic and decorative glass. This season it has partnered with famed architect and designer Peter Marino on a line of table-top vases. The limited-edition Black Belt collection features vases in four shapes – oval, triangular, square and figure of eight – in a range of sizes in natural, pink, chartreuse or amber glass with opaque black bands. Each is created using traditional Murano glass-making techniques, making it the perfect homeware buy on a trip to Venice. Global Blue Retailer

Venini, Piazzetta dei Leoncini, San Marco 314, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 4045, venini.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 76

Non-Global Blue Retailer

S H O P | 81

FLORENCE

● Via de’ Tornabuoni, Via degli Strozzi & Via Porta Rossa BOTTEGA QUATTRO ●

● CELLERINI

P.30 MONCLER ●

APPLE ●

VIA PELLICCERIA

● PAUL & SHARK

TWIN SET ● BORSALINO ●

● EREDI CHIARINI

● ALPHA STUDIO

● GIOEL

QUERCIOLI E ● LUCHERINI

VIA MONALDA

V I A D E ' TO R N A B U O N I

BO NP OI

●

STI

●

T● FON S I● FR A ● SI SA S

L AY

G IU

NT ●

P.82 A ● Z ZUR AQ UA LD IN I S H F IE N IC H HN A ● JO S U N TA A ● AS

P.83

VIA CALIMALA

BRANDY MELVILLE ● TRY ME ● IXOS ● MONTGOMERY ●

REA

REP

ION

FALCONERI ●

VIA DE' SASSE TTI

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

AELEONORE ●

CI ● C ● GU C O S. ● A IR E E V O LT B A .S E T ● D IG & R ● Z A GGI S E CN A L I ● ● O ● BO STE O R IO C LO T ● L A KO PA O R IA M A Z E R ● O E ● ● P INO S A LC O NI FUM E ● KA P RO IA L D● TO R I ORL . SAR ROSS G W IE S ● ● O .MR T O R IA T IN B ● SA H U N IVA B A N C E ● A ● D E B A L ID G E C O L IN R N E WU T T E R A LY ● ● RU E ID E G 9 IT S● ● P IN TI E CO 0 0 3 A IA N A S ● YO U R A N C IS H AV IQ O O ● ● TI E E S A N FR NTE ETR B IS O ● B LUT IA N R ● IL ● K A EYEWEA ● OP I● R IN E STO R EL LI C H IA A L I ● ● WP I BORR NNI E ID M IG ● G IA MER ● LU L L I URE CASH ● Z AT ● VA T E R N IC CAL ONNA ● M ISS E TA RO I● AD N IG ELL LL ASS ● IN N IS T R I C E . E LA B I● T JJ LU O ● R M A N R IS S IM CO N T ● E OR ● U S U T C A S H M B AT E A TO R E I CK S IT ● DU PET RT NHEA ● BE

AND

O VA

A NU

VIGN

ELL A

VIA D

● PATRIZIA PEPE

LOUIS ● VUITTON

KANGRA ● ALISI ● CLAMORI DI FIRENZE ● IL PAPIRO ●

BURBERRY ● OMEGA ●

AMERICAN VINTAGE ● DOLCE & GABBANA ●

DR VRANJES FIRENZE ● BULGARI ● COS ●

CARTIER ● BOTTEGA VENETA ●

DODO ● TIFFANY & CO ●

V I A D E ' TO R N A B U O N I PRADA ●

LUISA SPAGNOLI ● BARDUCCI ● LA PERLA ● UGO POGGI ● SALVINI ● ERMANNO SCERVINO ●

FRATELLI COPPINI ● E OL LS

PRINCIPE DI FIRENZE ●

MONTBLANC ● GIANFRANCO LOTTI ● PRADA ● SAVE THE QUEEN! ●

VIA ROMA

● TOD’S

OTTO D'AME ●

Featured In This Issue

Place Of Interest

Department Store

HOGAN ●

● MOMONI

Piazza della Repubblica

STROZZI PALAZZO VIA DEGLI STROZZI EMPORIO

O VA

VIA DE’ VECCHIETTI

VALENTINO ●

V I A P O R TA ● ● ● ROSSA ● ● A L PA R I B ● A ● ● BA BE MP MO ER S MI G ● O ● N ● L ● V ● U AS LE RT AL W NA PES SS A Z T T OI E V AL OM PES NC A F O A RD I ON Z A IN AN MA O I RR O I IA ER NI O IT R À GA R VIA DE IN ET LLE I TER TI ME MUSEO

SOTF● DIOR ● DAMIANI ●

VIA

GUCCI ● ANNE FONTAINE ●

● LOCMAN ITALY ● CASADEI PARENTI ●

● ARMANI ● MILORD PELLICCERIA ● ROMANELLI ● GIORGIO ARMANI ● FENDI ● INNIU ● LORO PIANA ● LES PETIT JOUEURS P.18 ● MUSEO DELLE CIPRIE ● CHOPARD ● CÉLINE ● PUCCI DOLCE & GABBANA ● JUNIOR

● MAX MARA

POMELLATO ●

DA PA AS

A NU

IGN LA V

VIA D

OFFICINA DEI TORNABUONI ● GUALTIERO ● ROLEX / FANI GIOIELLI ●

LL DE VIA

● MICHELE NEGRI

P.32

VIA DE’ PECORI ● TOMMY HILFIGER

HERMÈS ● LORETTA CAPONI ● LES COPAINS ●

DEGAIA ●

● Via della Vigna Nuova

82 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Via Roma & Via Calimala ● Via dei Calzaiuoli Piazza del Duomo

ARMANDO POGGI ●

Piazza di San Giovanni

VIA DEI TOSINGHI ● MIU MIU

MASSIMO DUTTI ●

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ● DISNEY ●

JO MALONE ●

DIESEL ●

GOLF ● ZARA ● GEOX ● PIQUADRO ● TWIN SET ●

GUESS ●

UPDATED ● ● CLARKS

● ZARA

● CORNELIANI ● SANDRO ● LIU JO VIA DEI LAMBERTI ● LIU JO

VIA CALIMALA

MORESCHI ● CALIMALA 31 ● GUYA ● ROY ROGERS ●

VIA DEI CALZAIUOLI

Piazza della Repubblica

VIA DEI CALZ A IU O LI

VIA DEGLI SPEZIALI GOLDEN POINT ● CHANEL ● ACQUA DELL'ELBA ● SWAROVSKI ● REBECCA ● ATHLETIC WORD ● FALCONERI ● PULL LOVE ● TEZENIS ● V I A D E I TAV O L I N I

VIA DEGLI SPEZIALI ● MOLESKINE Rinascente

VIA CALIMALA

VIA PELLICCER IA

COACH ●

MYWALIT ●

● OLIVIERO FIRENZE

VIA DEI TOSINGHI MIGONE ●

PROFUMERIA ALINE ●

● MICHAEL KORS

● HARD ROCK CAFE

MAX & CO ●

VIA DEI LAMBERT I

PUSATERI ● RE NERO ● L’OCCITANE ● CARPISA ● VIA P O RTA ROSSA FARMACIA MOLTENI ● CORSANI ● ATE SETA ● FOSSIL ●

● PUMA

CHANEL ●

V I A PO RTA ROSSA

VIA DEI CALZAIUOLI

VIA ROMA

SISLEY ●

● GUCCI ● PINKO ● LIU JO UOMO ● MISS SIXTY NI RMA IO A POR ● E M ● ELISABETTA FRANCHI

VIA ROMA

PRADA ● LE SILLA ● LUISA VIA ROMA ● LONGCHAMP ●

INTIMISSIMI ● ● ENRICO VERITÀ ● TIM ● BATA VIA DELLE OCHE ● MIA BAG ● VICTORIA'S SECRET ● FIRENZE PRATESI ● STROILI ORO ● MANETTI ● GERONICO ● OROLOGERIA R MARRETTI ● KIKO ● INTIMISSIMI

● YAMAMAY VIA DEL CORSO ● CALZEDONIA ● WOLFORD ● PYLONES ● COIN ● STEFANEL

● LEATHER FACTORY

● LUISA SPAGNOLI ● COCCINELLE ● NARA CAMICIE ● SOLARIS ● QUERCIOLI ● GUIDORENI VI A DELL A C O N DOT TA ● FURLA

Piazza della Signoria

A favourite of the fashion elite, Hollywood stars and European royalty, Aquazzura creates some of the world’s most covetable luxury footwear. At the Florentine brand’s flagship store on Lungarno Corsini, visitors will find stunning frescoed ceilings offset by bold stripes and emerald green furnishings. These provide a suitably dramatic backdrop to the all-important shoes, with towering high heels, chic flats and stylish boots encased in glass cabinets through the palatial boutique. Global Blue Retailer

Aquazzura, Lungarno Corsini 42R, 50125 Florence, +39 055 291242, aquazzura.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 81

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

AQUAZZURA

TORRINI ●

● MUSIC CEN TER ● CASINI SOUVEN IR ● MURA NO

● ● ● ●

PELUSO LE VANITÀ FOTO LOCCHI LUSH

V I A D E L P RO CO N S O LO TIURAI ●

PELUSO ●

GINGER ●

● ART STO RE ● EMPO RIO ITALIANO FIRENZE ● NANTE COR NICI ● ARSA A RREDI SACRI ● LOLITA MI LANO ● PIUMINI DA NESI AVIREX ● FLORENCE’S VIA DEL CORSO ● ● SECRET ● KODAK FI LM

LEATHER FASHION ●

● FUORI SKEMA ● FIORI DEL TEMPO ● GLAMOUR ● PAOLA P. ● RIKA BIJOUX ● PARAGON ● GALLERIA DEL CHIANTI ● SARAH PACINI ● JUSTORE ● DAVID 2 ● PIERO PULITI ● KIEHL'S ● FABRIANO VI A D EI CERCHI ● COIN ● BRASCHI ● THE FLEXX ● TIMBERLAND ● CLARISSA BIGIOTTERIA

VI A D EI CALZ A IUO LI

ANTICA CUOIERIA ● DIXIE ● SUPER DRY ● AL VIOLA ● NERO GIARDINI ● YAMAMAY ● MONNALISA ●

VIA CALIMALA

Aeleonore, Via Monalda 3R-7R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 073 6717, aeleonore.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 81

Aeleonore has become the go-to name in Florence for classic and contemporary geometric leather bags. Inspired by designs from the 1960s and 70s, the brand’s collections are made by hand using decades-old techniques to ensure that every piece is finished to the highest standard. Alongside its collections of bags, Aeleonore also offers silk and cashmere scarves, making the boutique on Via Monalda the perfect spot to find a stylish Florentine accessory. VIA D

DE EI M OS

ER A RT

ENZ

ELL

LO R

MONTI ● SOUVENIR OF FLORENCE ● IL PAPIRO ● L'ANTICA CANTINA DEL CHIANTI ● TORNABUONI ● ITAL PEL ● TRE ANGELI SOUVENIR ● FAVILLI ● LINDT MAITRE CHOCOLATIER ● APOSTOLATO LITURGICO ● BIFFOLI SHOP ●

LEATHER FLORENCE ●

PIAZZ A DEL DUOM O

VIA ROMA

VI A ORSA NMIC HELE

UNIVERSO SPORT ●

RASPINI ●

SWATCH ●

PROFUMERIA ALINE ●

GILARDINI ●

PRIMA DONNA ●

globalblue.com

VIA DELLE OCHE

VIA DEI TOSINGHI

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TRANSLATIONS 中文翻译 42: ONE STEP AHEAD 领先一步随着运动装在时尚界的兴起，意大利顶尖手工鞋履制造商也纷纷开始探索运动鞋文化。Patrick Clark报道 20世纪下半叶，意大利手工鞋履行业繁荣发展。凭借本土家族企业推动当地生产的独特模式，意大利人打造出了属于自己的风格，并成功将其输出至世界各地。从那时起，马尔凯（ Marche）地区就一直是卓越品质的代名词，这里的鞋匠和工厂构成了一张网络，专注生产高端鞋履；从令人梦寐以求的皮鞋到专门定制的作品，一应俱全。作为高街常见穿搭的运动鞋曾经上图: Alberto Guardiani 2018年春夏Onesoul运动鞋

只是运动服装品牌的后备力量，如今则成为了任何时尚系列都不可或缺的重要元素。奢侈品牌涉足运动服饰的势头越来越明显了，这两大设计领域之间的严格区分也正在逐渐消失。这样的趋势在意大利鞋履行业中创造了一个新的市场，也让该国的制鞋传统发生了转变。进入鞋履制作新篇章，各家意大利品牌为风靡街头的运动鞋换上了奢华皮革。来自科里多尼亚（ Corridonia）的品牌 Santoni初创时原本是一家专注于定制鞋履的工作坊，现在也开始运用其独一无二的才华来创作运动鞋。与乐福鞋、双扣鞋以及布洛克鞋一样，运动鞋如今已在品牌各系列中牢牢占据着一

席之地。代表着奢华男装的杰尼亚（ Ermenegildo Zegna）同样推出了一款正式休闲风的运动鞋，融合了奢华气质与休闲风格的 Tiziano运动鞋现已成为一大热门款式。人们将旧工艺与新技术结合到一起，全新的鞋履制作方法应运而生，这场传统与创新的微妙平衡正慢慢成为意大利时装界的决定性因素。对于早在 1947年就已创立同名品牌的 Alberto Guardiani而言，向运动服饰的转变推动了产品线的扩张：“早在 21世纪初，我就已经体会到了运动鞋的重要性，当时我们推出了品牌的第一双中性运动鞋 Somerset：为了迎合那个时代的品味，鞋的侧身还饰有一个大大的字母 G。”这位设计师如是说道，“那双鞋收获了巨大的成功，

眼光独到的顾客渴望在运动领域看到奢华元素使公司在非常短的时间内得到了指数级的发展。” Guardiani认为这样的转变 “两面分别连接着传统与创新这一对矛盾的双方，以至于我坚信：没有专业的工艺技术，任何创新都是不可能的。” 奢华正装鞋履的制作涉及到大量皮革处理方面的专业技术，有鉴于此，在同样的工厂中生产运动鞋也绝非易事。首先，运动鞋所用的材料完全不同，这意味着要对马尔凯地区的皮革制作传统进行全面革新 — — Guardiani的鞋履设计正是在那里变成实物。“使用织物而非皮革需要用到更加先进的检查程序。”他解释道，“处理一件织物的时候，我们必须要预测它未来的变化，比如最初装配到鞋帮上时是什么样，以及后来被人

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穿在脚上时是什么样。所以，这就意味着更多的工作，无论是研究层面的还是生产层面的。”但是，和传统制鞋手艺一样，材料处理上的文章同样精妙细微。从最先进的特殊处理技术到全新的鞋带款式，再到最重要的橡胶鞋底，各种现代元素的运用为鞋履带来更多精彩。最重要的是，眼光独到的顾客渴望在运动鞋领域看到奢华元素的存在；正是为了回应这样的需求，意大利品牌才纷纷诉诸行动。成立于 1953年的家族企业 Fratelli Rossetti现由 Diego、Dario和 Luca 三兄弟联合经营，该品牌成功的关键就在于时新款式与传统制鞋工艺的巧妙结合。品牌的工厂位于米兰附近的帕拉比亚戈（ Parabiago），精湛的手工技艺仍然是其生产方式的重要基础。“ 对于我们而言传统是至关重要的，决不能为了现代化生产而在产品质量上妥协。”他们解释道，“虽然我们的工厂拥有非常先进的设备和组织风格，但我们的鞋子仍然是手工制作的。技艺精湛的工匠们亲手为它们着色，然后添上流苏或缘饰等独特的嵌入元素，让它们变得更为华美。” 基于传统手工技艺与时新款式在生产和设计层面的联姻，Fratelli Rossetti于 2016年启动了 New Artisan Project（新手工计划）项目。该项目旨在支持有前途的专业创意天才，于发扬手工创作传统的同时，也为历史元素赋予现代色彩。在该项目创造的系列作品中，可以看到皮革在运动服饰上的多种运用，还有专为篮球、橄榄球和足球运动设计的款式。正是通过这种极其与众不同的方式，意大利制鞋行业正在通往未来的道路上一往直前：运动鞋爱好者们将迎来一种有着独特品质的卓越鞋履新风格。

50: HISTORY IN THE MAKING 开创历史 Officina ProfumoFarmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella是一家来自佛罗伦萨的药妆零售商。Sally McIlhone与总裁 Eugenio Alphandery先生面对面畅谈很少有品牌的历史可以追溯到 13世纪，Officina Profumo-

Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella的独特之处可见一斑。这家 Farmaceutica以香氛、美妆产品、草本保健品和药品闻名于世，理所当然是佛罗伦萨之旅不容错过的一站。 “ 我们的故事起源于 1221年，道明会修士们（ Dominicans）决定在上图: Acqua di Colonia最新香氛Lana

佛罗伦萨兴建修道院，那里就是如今 Officina Profumo- Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella的所在地。” Eugenio Alphandery先生介绍道，他在这家集健康、美容和保健于一身的古老品牌担任总裁。“修道士们开始采集修道院附近果园中培养的植物，研究和试验它们的治疗功效。” 时至今日，Farmaceutica 依旧沿袭这一傲人传统，照料着 Santa Maria Novella修道院中的花园，许多产品的原材料都生长于此。其中最为重要的一种原料是香脂菊（ balsamite），它是 Alphandery 先生口中的 “一款具有香气的植物，以促进健康和镇定安神而著称 ”，更是 Farmaceutica两款镇店之宝的主要成分：Pasticche消化含片和 Acqua di Santa Maria Novella（一款镇定液体配方，曾被誉为 Acqua Antisterica— — 安神之水），二者如今在店内依然有售。正如 Alphandery先生所说的，“ Officina Profumo-

Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella的每一款产品都蕴含着一个独特的故事，比方说 Acqua della Regina是1533年修道士为凯瑟琳• 德 • 梅第奇所创作，庆祝她与法国国王亨利二世喜结连理。” 据说梅第奇是“最早支持道明会品牌的人士之一 ”，因此在她加冕法国王后之际，“ 修道士创作了一款香氛向王后致敬，这就是后来大名鼎鼎的 Acqua della Regina（王后之水）。”Acqua della Regina如今仍可以买到，它是 Farmaceutica第一款含酒精香氛，甚至早于最畅销的 Acqua di Colonia；后者则提供多种香型，包括鸡蛋花、鸢尾花和马鞭草等等。继承品牌传统的同时，Alphandery先生还要为 Farmaceutica的未来出谋划策。除了销售经典产品，公司还 “ 在实验室

研发创新型产品”。Alphandery先生表示：“ 我们在 1999年收购了 Via Reginaldo Giuliani大街上的一处房产，这栋建筑是1930年的某农民协会所在地，占地面积 4000平方米。在这里，传统得到延续和更新，在现代技术和高级机器的帮助下，我们使用高品质的原材料，遵循修道士的工艺流程。”正是传统和现代的结合，让当代顾客对 Farmaceutica备受青睐。“ ‘传统和创新’一直是 Officina di Santa Maria Novella的品牌格言，我在扩充产品种类、海外建店拓展时，都遵循着这个准则。” 如今，30 多家门店遍及世界各地，无不印证着 Alphandery先生策略的有效性。 Via della Scala分店是 Farmaceutica历史和现代交融的最佳典范。在这里，客人既可以购买到最新推出的创新型产品，也可以在展览馆中了解品牌的悠久历史。“ Via della Scala分店向公众开放，药用植物园和生产场所通过预约也可以参观。展览区域展出古老的制药工具（如温度计、研钵、肥皂模具）、器皿（如瓶子、蒸馏器）以及托斯卡纳保存最完整且最独特的陶瓷药罐 — — 16世纪末至 17世纪前 25年在 Montelupo制作而成。”此外，展览馆中还收藏了用于产品制作的古董机器和工具。”虽然这些年代久远的展品吸引着八方来客，Alphandery先生更倾向于把 Farmaceutica定义为一家紧跟潮流的现代公司，而不是“老古董 ”。“即使门店的一小部分用于展示古董，我从来不认为 Officina只是一家博物馆；我们植根于历史，以创新为导向，不断推陈出新，避免沦为一具徒有历史的空壳。” 独特的产品选择、迷人的历史传统、通过高科技生产设备投资未来，Officina Profumo-

Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella远不仅是个博物馆级别的殿 globalblue.cn

堂，更是许多游客一次又一次回到佛罗伦萨的一大原因。

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 42: ONE STEP AHEAD ШАГ ВПЕРЕД

Спортивный стиль переживает расцвет, и итальянские производители обуви начинают присматриваться к кроссовкам, – рассказывает Патрик Кларк Расцвет индустрии ремесленной обуви в Италии пришелся на вторую половину 20 века. Тогда же появилась и итальянская модель семейного локального предприятия, продвигающего местное производство. В стране появился собственный стиль обуви, который успешно экспортируется в остальной мир. Например, регион Марке

прославился мастерами и фабриками, которые способны создавать обувь высочайшего качества, будь то серийные кожаные модели или вещи на заказ. Кроссовки, без которых невозможно представить уличный стиль, некоторое время были прерогативой спортивных брендов, а теперь они в центре любой модной коллекции. Интерес роскошных брендов к спортивному стилю становится все более и более насущным, и некогда жесткая граница постепенно размывается. Это не только открывает новое направление в обувной индустрии, но

Сверху: кроссовки Ermenegildo Zegna Tiziano, весна-лето 2018

и закладывает грядущие перемены в итальянской традиции. Итальянские модные дома охотно демонстрируют роскошный подход к уличному стилю в обуви. Компания Santoni из Корридонии, которая начинала как небольшая мастерская по пошиву обуви на заказ, теперь применяет профессиональные наработки к производству спортивных вещей. Кроссовки прочно заняли место в ассортименте рядом с лоферами, брогами и ботинками с двумя пряжками. Бренд качественной мужской одежды Ermenegildo Zegna также представил удобную обувь для смарт-кэжуал. Ключевой моделью стали кроссовки Tiziano, в которых органично сочетаются роскошь в отделке и все характерные признаки уличного стиля. Гармоничное соединение традиции и новации постепенно выходит на первый план в итальянской моде. В обувной сфере это означает усиление старых техник новыми методами. Для компании Alberto Guardiani, основанной в 1947 году, обращение к спорту стало поводом ускорить расширение основной коллекции. «Я осознавал необходимость таких перемен еще в начале 2000-х, когда мы выпускали первые кроссовки унисекс – модель Somerset. Они были с большой клиновидной буквой G на одной из сторон, по моде globalblue.ru

того времени, – рассказывает дизайнер и руководитель марки Альберт Гвардиани. – Успех был ошеломительным, и компания выросла в геометрической прогрессии за очень небольшой срок». Гвардиани рассматривает этот процесс как «двойную связь с традициями и новацией»: «Мое глубокое убеждение состоит в том, что без знания основ невозможны передовые решения». Производство роскошной обуви требует от мастеров разнообразных навыков обработки кожи. Наладить выпуск качественных кроссовок на тех же фабриках – непростая задача. Мастерские Гвардиани находятся в регионе Марке, и компания тщательно изучает многовековой опыт этой местности, поскольку для спортивной обуви используются особые материалы: «Текстиль, в отличие от кожи, необходимо более основательно испытывать, – объясняет дизайнер. – Мы должны точно знать, как ткань себя поведет сначала при креплении к подошве, а затем и при ношении. Таким образом, это более сложный процесс как на подготовительном этапе, так и в производстве». И работа с материалами, и традиционное ремесло сапожника – все приобретает здесь более изысканный акцент: от специальной обработки до новых кружевных орнаментов и, что особенно важно, кожаной подошвы.

Столь активные действия стали ответом Италии на интерес взыскательных клиентов к обновлению спортивной обуви. Семейное предприятие Fratelli Rossetti было основано в 1953 году в

городе Парабиаго неподалеку от Милана. Сейчас им управляют братья Диего, Дарио и Лука Розетти, которые сделали ставку на сочетание новых моделей с традициями обувного дела. Поэтому производство основано на ручном ремесле: «Наследие играет огромную роль для нас, и модернизация не должна быть поводом для компромиссов. Да, на фабрике мы применяем новейшее оборудование и современную организацию труда, но сделанная нами обувь остается ремесленной. Мастера тонируют ее вручную, а затем украшают декоративными элементами – кистями и бахромой». Чтобы укрепить союз между старыми и новыми методами производства, бренд Fratelli Rossetti инициировал проект New Artisan Project в 2016 году. Его цель – поддержать молодых профессионалов обувного дела, познакомить их с историей ремесла и активизировать современный подход. В результате проекта появляются кожаные вариации на спортивную тему, и частью коллекции бренда уже стали модели, заимствованные из баскетбола, регби и футбола. С этих необычных шагов начинается большой путь обувной индустрии Италии в будущее. Поклонники спортивного стиля непременно оценят по достоинству новый облик кроссовок, отмеченных знаком итальянского качества.

Сверху: кроссовки Ermenegildo Zegna Tiziano, весна-лето 2018

50: HISTORY IN THE MAKING ИСТОРИЯ РУЧНОЙ РАБОТЫ Салли Макилхоун поговорила с Эудженио Альфандери – директором флорентийской культурной институции Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella Немногие бренды смогут проследить свою историю до 13 века. Но и назвать Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella обычным брендом нельзя. Эта компания прославилась на весь мир своими ароматами, косметическими продуктами, травяными сборами и целебными средствами, и познакомиться с ней во время поездки во Флоренцию нужно обязательно. «Наша история началась в 1221 году, когда монахидоминиканцы решили построить монастырь во Флоренции, где Officina ProfumoFarmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella находится по сей день. Они начали изучать целебные свойства трав, выращивать их в садах при монастыре и экспериментировать», – рассказывает об истоках этого центра здоровья, красоты и благополучия его директор Эудженио Альфандери. Farmaceutica ценит свое наследие и продолжает возделывать сад Santa Maria globalblue.ru

Novella, откуда и берет ингредиенты для снадобий. В числе важнейших растений сада – бальзамическая пижма, которую Альфандери называет «ароматной травой с лечебными и успокаивающими свойствами». Пижма входит в два старинных рецепта Farmaceutica: Pasticche (пастилки для улучшения пищеварения) и Acqua di Santa Maria Novella (успокаивающий раствор, который некогда

„Именно здесь традиция увековечивается и возрождается“ назывался Acqua Antisterica – «антиистерическая вода»), – и эти продукты по-прежнему можно купить. «У каждого средства в ассортименте Officina ProfumoFarmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella есть своя история. Это началось с композиции Acqua della Regina, которую монахиаптекари создали для Екатерины Медичи в 1533 году по случаю ее свадьбы с королем Франции Генрихом II», – поясняет Альфандери. Считается, что Медичи «одной из первых оказала королевское доверие компании». Когда она стала

королевой Франции, «монахи создали эссенцию, которая осталась в веках под названием Acqua della Regina («Королевская вода») в ее честь». Под этим же названием она продается до сих пор. Более того, Acqua della Regina стала первым в истории Farmaceutica продуктом со спиртом и предвосхитила появление Acqua di Colonia. Одеколоны также выпускаются до сих пор, и ароматов очень много, от Frangipane (франжипан) до Iris (ирис) и Verbena (вербена). По словам Альфандери, компания вкладывается не

только в славное прошлое, но и в будущее. На Farmaceutica «работают исследовательские лаборатории, в которых разрабатываются передовые продукты». «В 1999 году компания приобрела здание на Via Reginaldo Giuliani площадью 4000 квадратных метров: оно было построено в 1930 году для ассоциации фермеров. Именно здесь традиция увековечивается и возрождается. Сырье высокого качества обрабатывается вручную по рецептам, выведенным монахамидоминиканцами при поддержке современных технологий и

Сверху: директор Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, Эудженио Альфандери

новейшего оборудования», – поясняет директор. Именно это сочетание традиций и современности позволяет Farmaceutica оставаться созвучной современности: «Традиция и новация» – таким был и остается девиз Officina di Santa Maria Novella. Этот принцип я пытаюсь применять как к расширению ассортимента, так и к открытию магазинов». Сейчас у компании более 30 магазинов по всему миру – едва ли остаются вопросы к эффективности стратегии Альфандери. Магазин на Via della Scala – хороший пример того, как Farmaceutica уравновешивает историю и современность. Здесь посетитель может приобрести что-нибудь из новейших продуктов марки, а затем Сверху: секция музея в бутике Via della Scala

посетить прекрасные музейные залы, чтобы познакомиться с историей компании: «Магазин на Via della Scala открыт для гостей, а по предварительной договоренности можно побывать в саду целебных трав и на производстве. В витринах музейных залов представлены старинные фармацевтические инструменты (термометры, ступки, формы для мыла), стеклянные сосуды (бутылки и дистилляторы) и одна из самых полных и интересных в Тоскане коллекций аптечной керамики, созданной в Монтелупо в последние десятилетия 16 века и первой четверти 17 века. Еще одна экспозиция посвящена старинному оборудованию и инструментам». Исторические витрины сами по себе очень интересны

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для путешественников, однако Альфандери предпочитает рассматривать Farmaceutica как современную компанию: «Пусть отдельные залы и посвящены истории, но я никогда не считал Officina музеем. Это ориентированный на новации бренд, который корнями уходит в века, продолжает обновлять ассортимент и не хочет превращаться в выставку былых достижений». Неповторимая подборка

целительных и косметических средств, интересная история и инвестиции в развитие бренда в через технологии – все это укрепляет статус Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella как масштабной современной институции, а не просто музейной ценности. Более того, для многих путешественников именно эта институция – повод возвращаться во Флоренцию снова и снова.

86: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

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日本語翻訳 42: ONE STEP AHEAD 一歩先行くスニーカーファッション界におけるスポーツウェアの地位が上がり、イタリア有数のアルチザン系靴メーカーがスニーカー文化に進出し始めた。パトリック・クラークがレポートする。イタリアのアルチザン系フットウェア産業は、20世紀後半に成長と繁栄を遂げた。地域のファミリービジネスが、地元での生産を振興するというイタリア特有のモデルに則って独自のスタイルを作り上げ、世界中に輸出したのだ。それ以来、垂涎のレザー製品から誂え品まで高級フットウェアを作る職人や工房のネットワークが自慢のマルケ州は、卓越した品質の代名詞になった。大衆向けのショップに欠かせず、かつてはスポーツウェアブランドの独壇場だったスニーカーだが、今やどの

ファッションコレクションにも登場する定番アイテムになってきている。高級ブランドがスポーツウェアを手掛けることが多くなり、以前ははっきりしていた高級品とスポーツウェアの境目が消えつつあるのだ。それによってイタリアンフットウェアの新マーケットが出現し、この国の靴作りの伝統が変わりつつある。こうして訪れた靴作りの新時代。イタリアのメーカーは、ストリートウェアの定番であるスニーカーを高級レザーで提供している。コリドニアに拠点を置くサントーニは元々オーダーメードのフットウェアを専門とする地元の工房だったが、独自のノウハウを応用したスニーカー作りに乗り出した。同社のコレクションには、ローファー、ダブルバックル、ブローグに加え、今やスニーカーが欠かせないアイテムになっている。エルメネジルド・ゼニアといえば高級紳士服のテーラリン

上：アルベルト・ガルディアーニサマーセットスニーカー、2018年春夏コレクション

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グでお馴染みだが、このブランドでもスポーティなフットウェアのスマートカジュアル版を導入。「ティツィアーノ」スニーカーはストリートウェアの定型と贅沢な仕上げを組み合わせた使い勝手満点のスタイルだ。こうした伝統と革新の微妙なバランスが徐々にイタリアのファッションシーンの特徴になりつつある。新旧の技法を組み合わせる新たな靴作りのプロセスが生まれているのだ。アルベルト・ガルディアーニが1947年に創設した自名のブランドでは、スポーツウェアに目を向けるという転換によって商品ラインが急速に拡大した。「スニーカーの重要性は2000年代初頭からわかっていました。時代の好みに合わせて先が細く側面に大きなGの文字が入った当社初のユニセックススニーカー『サマーセット』を発売したのはその頃です。これが大成功して当社はごく短期間に驚異的な成長を遂げました」というデザイナーのガルディアーニ。ガルディアーニは、この移行には「伝統と革新という二要素が二重に関連していた」と見ている。「ノウハウが無ければ革新は不可能だと確信していました。」高級フォーマルフットウェアの製造では、革の処理に様々な特殊技能が関わっている。その同じ工場でスニーカーを作るのは生易しいことではない。ガルディアーニのフットウェアのデザインが実際に形になるのはマルケ州だが、スニーカーは使用する素材からして違う。まずはマルケの革の伝統を根本から見直す必要があった。「革でなくテキスタイルを使うため、さらに高度なチェックプロセスが必要でした。テキスタイルを用いる場合はその挙動を予測しなければなりません。まずはアッパーソールに組み立てた時、そして実際に履かれた時にどうなるかを予測するのです。つま globalblue.com

り、リサーチにしろ製造工程にしろ仕事が増えるわけです。」しかしその甲斐あって、素材使いは靴職人の伝統工芸と同様に洗練されており、最新の特殊処理から新スタイルの靴ヒモ、そして最も重要なゴム底など、モダンさを感じさせるディテールが加えられている。イタリアの靴業界がスニーカーの分野に乗り出したのはむろん、高級品が欲しいという眼識ある顧客の欲求に応えてのことだ。1953年創立のファミリービジネスで現在はディエゴ、ダリオ、ルカの３兄弟が経営するフラテッリ・ロセッティでは、新モデルと伝統的な靴作りの組み合わせが鍵。製造手法は今でも、ミラノ近郊のパラビアゴにある同ブランドの工場で培われた職人技を基本としている。「私たちにとって伝統は非常に大事で、近代化しても製品の品質を妥協することはできません。工場には最新の設備と組織スタイルを導入していますが、当社の靴はやはり職人が作った靴なんです。熟練工が手で彩色し、タッセルやフリンジといった当社独特の飾りをつけて豊かな表情を作ります。」こうした伝統手工芸の技術と製造やデザインの新モデルを結びつけようと、フラテッリ・ロセッティは2016年にニュー・アルチザン・プロジェクトを開始した。手工芸品の歴史を大切にしつつ現代的な要素を取り入れる有望新人デザイナーをサポートするもので、その成果として生まれたのが革製のスポーツフットウェア各種。コレクションにはバスケットボールやラグビー、フットボールのモデルがある。イタリアの靴業界は、こうしたいかにもイタリアらしい独特のやり方で未来を切り開いている。イタリアならではの品質が保証された新スタイルのフットウェアが、スニーカー愛好者の目に留まることだろう。

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50: HISTORY IN THE MAKING 歴史は日々作られるオフィチーナ・プロフーモ・ファルマチュティカ・ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラはフィレンツェの名所だ。サリー・マキルホーンがディレクターのユージニオ・アルファンデリにインタビューした。 13世紀まで遡る歴史を持つブランドは滅多にない。もちろん、オフィチーナ・プロフーモ・ファルマチュティカ・ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラはありきたりのブランドとはわけが違う。フレグランスやビューティ製品、ハーブサプリメント、医薬品などで世界的に有名なこのファルマチュティカ（薬局）は、当然ながらフィレンツェ旅行では必見の場所になっている。

「歴史は遠く1221年まで遡ります。ドミニコ会が、フィレンツェの現在オフィチーナ・プロフーモ・ファルマチュティカ・ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラがある場所に修道院の建設を決めたのが始まりです」と、いにしえの昔から健康と美、ウェルネスの中心だったこの薬局のディレクター、ユージニオ・アルファンデリは説明する。「修道士たちが修道院付近の果樹園で育てた薬用ハーブの効能について研究し、実験し始めたのです。」こうした歴史を重んじるこの薬局は今もサンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラ・ガーデンを持ち、製品に使う原材料の多くを栽培している。そこで育てられる主要原材料の一つがバルサミータ（サンタマリア草）。アルファンデリいわく「体によく鎮静効果がある香草」で、これを主原料とするファルマチュティカの二

上：フィレンツェにあるオフィチーナ・プロフーモ・ファルマチュティカ・ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラの店舗、過去と現在の姿

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大人気商品パスティッケ・ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラ（タブレット）とアックア・ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラ（元々は「抗ヒステリー水（アックア・アンティステリカ）」と呼ばれていた鎮静効果のあるハーブウォーター）は現在でも販売されている。アルファンデリによれば、「オフィチーナ・プロフーモ・ファルマチュティカ・ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラの製品はそれぞれにストーリーがあります。例えばアックア・デッラ・レジーナは、1533年にカテリーナ・デ・メディチがフランスのアンリII世に嫁いだ際に修道士たちが作ったものです。」カテリーナは早くからドミニコ会ブランドの支持者だったといわれ、彼女がフランス王妃となった時に修道士たちが敬意を表してエッセンスを作り、それが「アックア・デッラ・レジーナ（王妃の水）」として知られるようになったのだという。現在も買えるこのアックア・デッラ・レジーナは、この薬局初のアルコール入りフレグランスで、フランジパーネからアイリス、バーベナまで様々な香りのものが揃うベストセラー商品「アックア・ディ・コロニア（オーデコロン）」より古い。アルファンデリは自社ブランドの歴史を尊重しながらも、常に未来に目

を向けるようにしている。同社は歴史ある製品を売っている他、「研究所を活用して革新的な製品も作っている」という。「1999年にレジナルド・ジュリアーニ通りの物件を取得しました。1930年に農協会館として建設された延べ床面積4000平米の建物です。ここで高品質の原材料を使い、ドミニコ会修道士が伝えた手作業の工程を追いながら近代的なテクノロジーと第一級の機械を取り入れ、伝統の維持・刷新を図っているのです。」こうした新旧の融合が、ファルマチュティカが現代の買い物客にも喜ばれる理由だ。「伝統と革新。それがこれまでも、そしてこれからもオッフィチーナ・ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラのモットーであり、商品レンジを拡大する際も外国に店舗をオープンする際もこの原則を適用するよう心掛けています。」世界中で展開する店舗は

上（左上から右回りに）：フィレンツェにあるオフィチーナ・プロフーモ・ファルマチュティカ・ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラでの丹精込めた製品づくり、研究所の内部、パスティッケ・ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラ（タブレット）

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30店舗以上というから、アルファンデリの戦略が功を奏しているのは間違いない。スカラ通りの店は、ファルマチュティカがこの歴史と近代性のバランスをいかにとっているかを示す好例だ。来店者は革新を凝らした最新の製品を買えるだけでなく、同ブティック内のミュージアムセクションを見学してブランドの豊かな歴史を学ぶことができる。「スカラ通りの店は一般にオープンしており、予約をとってご来店いただけますし、薬草の植わったガーデンや製造施設もご覧いただけます。店内のミュージアムセクションでは、昔の薬局で使っていた器具類（温度計、乳鉢、石鹸の型）やガラス類（瓶、蒸留器）を展示している他、16 世紀末から17世紀の第１四半世紀にかけてモンテルーポで作られたトスカーナ陶器製薬瓶の広範なコレクションもとても興味深いですよ。また、製造に使われた古い機械や道具もご覧になれます。」こうした歴史の展示はもちろん魅力的だが、アルファンデリはファルマチュティカを過去の遺物ではなく現代的な企業として見てもらうことに心を砕く。「店の一角をこうした展示に使ってはいますが、私はオッフィチーナをミュージアムとして見たことはありません。歴史に根差しつつ中身を常にアップデートし、過去のショーケースと化さないように気を付けながら革新を志向する企業だと思っています。」独特の品揃えと魅力的な伝統があり、ブランドの将来に向けてハイテク製造施設に投資するオフィチーナ・プロフーモ・ファルマチュティカ・ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラは、ミュージアムで触れる過去の存在に終始せず、来店者がフィレンツェへ何度も足を運びたいと思う場所になっている。 globalblue.com

86: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 海外でのお買い物が免税にグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある30 万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを踏むだけです。 1. お買い物お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。 2. 還付請求ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にスタンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。お問い合わせ： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.95以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望の場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課されます。

SOUVENIR

FLASH BACK The spring/summer 2018 collections saw several designers pay tribute to the relaxed styles of the 1990s, and this bright blue Glitter Angels sweatshirt by Fiorucci is a perfect example. Oversized and unisex, it features the revamped Italian brand’s celebrated cherubs motif, and is made in Italy from 100% cotton. The label, founded by Elio Fiorucci in 1967, soon became synonymous with bold colours, Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

leopard print and skinny jeans, and was a key player in the street-style scene of the 70s and 80s. Fiorucci was bought in 2015 by Janie and Stephen Schaffer. The brand’s much-anticipated relaunch followed in early 2017, and its playful separates for men and women look set to capture a new generation of admirers. fm Fiorucci sweatshirt, €145, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20124 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, fiorucci.com

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