SHOP Italy Style SS18

ITALY | 意大利 | ИТАЛИЯ | イタリア

ITALY Style Edition Spring/Summer 2018

EXPLORE ITALY: behind the scenes at the country’s best stores, brands and more

#BoggiGentlemanStyle

A GENTLEMAN FINDS IRONY IN EVERYTHING. - Rule 23 -

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pisa orologeria boutique rolex via montenapoleone 24 milano

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pisa orologeria boutique hublot via verri 7, milano

the leading retailer for watch lovers

And many more...

For more information please visit: www.pisaorologeria.com

pisa orologeria boutique patek philippe via verri 9, milan0

CALLE DEL TEATRO 4599, VENICE

PIAZZA DEGLI ANTINORI 3D, FIRENZE

A SPECIAL COLLECTION BY GIGI HADID #TOMMYXGIGI TOM

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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Barcelona Belgium Berlin Copenhagen 捷克 Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫أملانيا‬ 德国 Германия Gothenburg

Welcome to Italy

Hamburg Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Oslo Paris Prague Rome Singapore Stockholm Switzerland Чехия /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue

EMMA CHEEVERS

@shopmagazine_

ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this beautiful and fascinating country.

Read about the names adding a distinctive Italian spin to sneaker design (page 42), discover one of Florence’s oldest beauty brands (page 50), and much more.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to the most prestigious destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Italy. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the new SHOP TAX FREE app, which is available now – find all the details in our guide section in this issue. Calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.

12

CONTRIBUTORS

SALLY MCILHONE As SHOP’s deputy editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally has contributed to ShortList, Stylist and Total Film online. For this issue, she speaks to Eugenio Alphandery, director of one of Florence’s oldest and most celebrated brands. globalblue.com

HAYLEY MOSELEY SHOP’s senior artworker Hayley Moseley graduated in graphic communication with typography from the University of Plymouth and specialises in editorial design.

In her spare time she can often be found in vintage-clothing shops searching for items from the 1930s, 40s and 50s, lifting weights at the gym, or swimming in a mermaid tail.

ILLUSTRATION: MUTI - FOLIO ART; PHOTO: (RIGHT) BARRIE DOWNIE

MUTI Creative studio Muti created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Italy. Its inventive artwork has previously been commissioned

by Google, Esquire and British Airways, among others. Its designers’ flair makes the studio a perfect choice for this cover, inspired by Italy’s reputation for fine tailoring, which shows some of the country’s most celebrated landmarks stitched on to the pocket of a luxury suit jacket.

Discover SHOP Italy and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

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SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L

PUBLISHING

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Acting deputy editor Ruairidh Pritchard Cover illustrator Muti - Folio Art Contributors Patrick Clark Production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion and lifestyle writer Rebecca Rhys-Evans

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese production editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editors Yangzi Liang, Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Senior Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy

News editor Ginger Rose Clark

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne, Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan

Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistant Inga Abramian Marketing intern Joanna Dodge Digital production assistant Linda Hau Production assistant Chris Bigg

Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Hayley Moseley Artworker Onur Unaltay Artworking assistant Tatjiana Antoniou Editorial intern Hannah Dall Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Acting online managing editor Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Dian Liu Digital marketing manager Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

G LO B A L B L U E I TA LY Managing director Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales manager Denise Bolandrina Partner relationship manager Antonella Bertossi Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Marketing executive Laura Gallo Marketing coordinator Alberta Reinach Head of key accounts Stefano Cardinale Head of accounts Marco Cavalli Global account managers Simone Borgheresi, Umberto Pannizut, Salvatore Smith Key account managers Benedetta Andreini, Nicoletta Aromando, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Consuelo Murari, Marco Savino Account managers Mirko Ardita, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Laura Durante, Giorgia Faro, Attilio Fioritti, Gabriele Giuntini, Davide Grechi, Diana Martin, Elisa Narducci, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Giordano Senzacqua, Laura Vitale Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, 21013 Gallarate, Varese, Italy

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2018 Global Blue

CONTENTS

42

PRODUCTS 18 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Italy this season 20 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

NEWS 30 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Florence 32 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products 38 In Store … … with Il Bisonte’s CEO Sofia Ciucchi in the brand’s new Milan flagship

ESSENTIALS 86 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

FEATURES

TRANSLATIONS

42 One Step Ahead The rise of sportswear in the fashion world is seeing Italy’s leading artisanal shoemakers dip their toes into sneaker culture. Patrick Clark reports 50 History In The Making Officina ProfumoFarmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is a Florentine institution. Sally McIlhone meets its director

88 中文 翻 译 93 Русский Перевод 101 日本 語 翻 訳

SOUVENIR 106 The essential item to bring home

38

ITALY GUIDE 57 Maps and guides to Italy’s top shops and destinations, plus SHOP's unique view of the sights of Florence Above (from top): Alberto Guardiani Somerset sneakers; Il Bisonte Weekend bag

CHECK OUT

CATCH THE SUN Vibrant yellow with a splash of gold detailing makes the perfect combination for summer accessories, as demonstrated by this eminently desirable bag

by Florence-based Les Petits Joueurs. First seen in the Resort 2018 collection, the Lulu has been updated for the new season with a different handle and more space for your essentials. The brand has become known for creating luxury bags with quirky Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

streetwear-influenced touches since it was founded in 2013

by Maria Sole Cecchi. Its statement designs are now available in major department stores and boutiques worldwide, as well as at its inviting flagship in Florence’s historic centre. fm Les Petits Joueurs Lulu bag, €550, Les Petit Joueurs, Via de’ Tornabuoni 6, 50123 Florence, +39 055 286855, lespetitsjoueurs.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 81

loriblu.com

20 | P R O D U C T S

BROWNIE

MIX

Dress from top to bottom in hues of beige, chocolate and espresso

Belstaff jacket, €1,395, Gente Roma, Via del Babuino 185, 00187 Rome, +39 06 322 5954, belstaff.com APC boots, €400, Wok Store, Viale Col di Lana 5A, 20136 Milan, +39 02 3656 8742, apc.fr

Cos socks, €7, Cos, Via della Spada 1, 50123 Florence, +39 055 281093, cosstores.com

Tommy Hilfiger backpack, €304.90, Tommy Hilfiger, Piazza Guglielmo Oberdan 2A, 20129 Milan, +39 02 2024 1573, tommy.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Massimo Dutti trousers, €49.95, Massimo Dutti, Merceria del Capitello, San Marco 4922-4923, 30124 Venice, +39 041 296 0774, massimodutti.com

LOUNGE EXPERIENCE APP

SHOP TAX FREE IN ITALY Discover the new tax refund experience with Global Blue’s Lounges, saving you time and money. Plus you can discover shopping trips in Italy, city maps, events and local store information.

Download the Lounge Experience app now

22 | P R O D U C T S

ALL THE BAGS Woven details in wicker, leather, raffia or suede are everywhere this season

Miu Miu bag, €1,300, Miu Miu, Via Sant’Andrea 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 1799, miumiu.com

Louis Vuitton bag, €3,250, Louis Vuitton, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 1711, louisvuitton.com

Bottega Veneta bag, €1,100, Bottega Veneta, Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina 9-13, 00186 Rome, +39 06 6821 0024, bottegaveneta.com

Fendi bag, from €1,980, Fendi, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1617, fendi.com

Loewe bag, from €1,700, Loewe, Piazza di Spagna 88, 00187 Rome, +39 06 6992 3598, loewe.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Max Mara bag, €2,200, Max Mara, Merceria Due Aprile, San Marco 5033, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 6688, maxmara.com

24 | P R O D U C T S

Swarovski ring, €149, Swarovski, Via dei Calzaiuoli 43R, 50122 Florence, +39 055 216227, swarovski.com

SUITS YOU

Tod’s bag, €895, Tod’s, Calle Larga XXII Marzo, San Marco 2251, 30124 Venice, +39 041 520 6603, tods.com

Bally shoes, €450, Bally, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8406, bally.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Pinko blazer, €390, and trousers, €275, Pinko, Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 4184, pinko.com

PHOTOS: (SHOES) © BALLY; (BLAZER & TROUSERS) TOMMASO VECCHI

Pair a baby-blue lace blazer with matching trousers and cream slippers for a contemporary approach

26 | P R O D U C T S

BRIGHT THINKING Pair red and fuchsia with mules and cat-eye sunglasses for a look that’s both classic and modern

Céline sunglasses, €290, Céline, Via dei Condotti 20A, 00187 Rome, +39 06 678 7594, celine.com

Strenesse dress, €499, La Fayette, Via Felice Cavallotti 3, 21052 Busto Arsizio, +39 0331 627280, strenesse.com

Salvatore Ferragamo shoes, €595, Salvatore Ferragamo, Via de’ Tornabuoni 4R-14R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 292123, ferragamo.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Bulgari bag, €1,780, Bulgari, Salizada San Moisè, San Marco 1494-1497, 30124 Venice, +39 041 241 0553, bulgari.com

PHOTOS: (DRESS) ANDREAS-ACHMANN.COM; (BAG) BULGARI/MAURO FABBIO

Dsquared2 earrings, €715, Dsquared2, Via Sant’Andrea 18, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8969 1699, dsquared2.com

28 | P R O D U C T S

Tumi backpack, €415, Tumi, Via del Babuino 57, 00187 Rome, +39 06 323 5346, tumi.com

FUNCTION STYLE

&

Choose the perfect backpack for your needs Jimmy Choo backpack, €895, Jimmy Choo, Via Sant’Andrea 1A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4548 1770, jimmychoo.com

Diesel backpack, €200, Diesel, Via degli Speziali 16R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 239 9963, diesel.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Brunello Cucinelli backpack, €2,190, Brunello Cucinelli, Via del Babuino 150D, 00187 Rome, +39 06 321 4038, brunellocucinelli.com

PHOTOS: (DIESEL) YLENIA ZAMPIERON/OFFICINAFOTOGRAFICA.EU; (JIMMY CHOO) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY

MCM backpack, €950, Al Duca d’Aosta, Calle Larga San Marco, San Marco 284, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 0733, mcmworldwide.com

Milano - Piazza Gae Aulenti, 8

A FIRST FOR FLORENCE At the end of 2017 Moncler threw open the doors of its first boutique in Florence. Located on Via degli Strozzi, the new store overlooks the picturesque Piazza della Republica. Elegant interiors featuring marble and smoked oak create a warm, sophisticated Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

environment in which to shop the brand’s clothing and sportwear collections for men and women, including the technical Moncler Grenoble line, as well as a range of covetable accessories. grc Moncler, Via degli Strozzi 3R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 265 7583, moncler.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 81

PHOTO: AGOSTINO OSIO

SHOP WINDOW

shop 24|7 carpisa.com

32 | N E W S

BEAUTY CALLS

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 81

ON THE CASE With more than 30 years of experience in creating hi-tech accessories, Italian brand Piquadro uses innovative techniques and materials while continuing to champion the virtues of fine Italian craftsmanship. The spring/ summer offering spans everything from handbags and technical backpacks through to luggage. Available in a selection of colours, the pictured Seeker case (€219) is equipped with a TSA lock as well as a practical stow-away handle, and has a capacity of 39.5 litres. grc Piquadro, Merceria del Capitello, San Marco 4940, 30124 Venice, +39 041 296 0037, piquadro.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 78

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

PHOTO: (LEFT) © LORENZO MICHELINI

Officina de’ Tornabuoni has been creating some of the finest natural skincare products since 1843.

The family company, now run by the fourth generation, strikes the perfect balance between scientific innovation and traditional plant use, as exemplified by products such as the Antioxidant Intensive Serum (€68.80), an anti-ageing facial oil. With key ingredients including the cold-pressed oils of borage, olive and evening primrose, the serum promises to nourish and protest the skin while reducing signs of ageing. For best results, follow with one of the Florentine brand’s creams. rp Officina de’ Tornabuoni, Via de’ Tornabuoni 19N, 50123 Florence, +39 055 217481, odtskincare.com

34 | N E W S

TOP TOURS

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

BAGS OF STYLE With its wide range, Carpisa is one of the best places in Milan to find a new bag, briefcase or backpack for spring/summer 2018. At the brand’s store just off Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, visitors can explore its full range of men’s and women’s bags and small leather goods, as well as suitcases in which to take all your purchases home with you. rp Carpisa, Galleria Pattari, Via Pattari 5, 20122 Milan, +39 02 8909 6517, carpisa.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

PHOTOS: (TOP CENTRE) MARIO FERRARA; (BOTTOM LEFT) ANDREA OFFREDI

Enhance your trip to Milan with city tour specialist Zani Viaggi, which offers coach trips that take in the best of Milan’s culture, art and fashion, as well as shopping tours to some of Italy’s finest outlets. Services run from the city centre to shopping villages which showcase designer brands at discount prices.

Destinations include Serravalle Designer Outlet, the largest outlet in Europe; Il Centro; Franciacorta Outlet Village; Scalo Milano; and Vicolungo The Style Outlets. Zani Viaggi can also take you across the border to Switzerland, to the FoxTown stores. Wherever you decide to go, Zani Viaggi will ensure that you travel in style. sm Zani Viaggi, Milan Visitor Center, Largo Cairoli 18 (city centre) and Milano Centrale station, Ground Level, 20100 Milan, +39 02 867131, zaniviaggi.com

S H O P | 35

PICTURE PERFECT

FRESH SETTING Luxury Italian brand Ermanno Scervino is internationally known for ready-to-wear collections that showcase Italy’s culture of fine craftsmanship to perfection. It recently opened a new boutique in Venice on Calle Vallaresso, one of the city’s most prestigious shopping streets, a location that perfectly matches the brand’s ethos. The new store carries typical Ermanno Scervino pieces such as pastel lightweight wool coats, elegant dresses and colourful embellished shoes and accessories that will create a polished look all year round. rre Ermanno Scervino, Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1314, 30124 Venice, +39 041 241 1602, ermannoscervino.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 75

globalblue.com

To capture your memories in high resolution, the latest addition to Sony’s mirrorless camera collection, the A7R III (€3,500), is the ideal device.

Boasting a 42.4 megapixel sensor and the ability to capture video in 4K, the compact, lightweight camera offers professional quality shooting for experts and novices alike. Other features include an extra-long-life battery, upgraded autofocus and convenient transfer to your smartphone, tablet or computer via Wi-Fi – perfect for sharing your snaps instantly. lt Ottica Bongi, Via Por Santa Maria 82R-84R, 50122 Florence, +39 055 239 8811, sony.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 85

36 | N E W S

SCENTS OF PLACE

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

CARRY IT OFF Founded in 1978, Coccinelle is known for its on-trend handbags, shoes, jewellery and accessories for women.

The pictured Ambrine bag (€395) has been updated for spring/summer 2018 in woven straw finished with red and black leather. As a nod to the elegant styles of the 1950s, it has a neat handle as well as a longer strap so it can be worn as a cross-body bag. The rest of the Italian brand’s collection encompasses pastel totes, clutches and handbags, along with an array of small leather goods in a range of plain and printed suede and leather. rre Coccinelle, Merceria San Zulian, San Marco 712, 30124 Venice, +39 041 520 2127, coccinelle.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 78

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) ISABELLA PONTE

In the 16 years since it was founded, Acqua di Stresa has become known for sophisticated fragrances inspired by the landscapes and ambiance of Italy’s stunning Lake Maggiore region and its waterside town of Stresa. The brand’s most recent launches are suitably evocative: Virens, for instance, conjures up the atmosphere of a ride in a speedboat with top notes of artemisia, cinnamon leaf and saffron flower, and a heart of helichrysum, patchouli and amber accord, on a base of benzoin, oud and vanilla.

Equally irresistible is Roburis, whose woody-spicy scent with berry notes references the earth and the woods. Paying homage to one of Italy’s loveliest regions, Acqua di Stresa’s fragrances make unforgettable souvenirs. grc Excelsior, Galleria del Corso 4, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7630 7301, acqua-di-stresa.it

S H O P | 37

ONE TO

WATCH

A CUT ABOVE

LIDO

Corneliani is noted for its classic tailored styles created using exquisite Italian fabrics, and its spring/summer 2018 collection is characteristically suave. Suits, jackets and outerwear come in a neutral palette of navy, beige, greys and white. The clothing is complemented by chic accessories, spanning everything from foulards, ties and cufflinks through to bags and footwear, including the pictured trainers (₏480), which are a great option for a casual urban look. Pair with tawny and beige pieces from this season’s collection for a tonal effect. grc Corneliani, Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7955,

Established in 2017, Lido has swiftly taken the world by storm with its clean-cut swimwear. Named after an island in Venice, the city from which the brand hails, Lido sets out to create locally handmade pieces for contemporary women. Its second collection includes the pictured one-piece style, which is available in a selection of colours. grc Lol Roma, Via Urbana 89-92, 00184 Rome, +39 06 481 4160, lido-lido.com

corneliani.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 74

globalblue.com

38 | I N S TO R E

IN STORE: IL BISONTE Il Bisonte has been producing beautiful Italian-made leather goods and accessories for over four decades. Following the opening of the brand’s first Milan flagship, CEO Sofia Ciucchi speaks to Hannah Lewis about what makes Il Bisonte so special

‘I

fell in love with Il Bisonte’s clean and recognisable aesthetic, together with the quality of the materials and the workmanship. I appreciated the high quality of the collections, their “casual chic” style, and the blend of functionality, unconventional elements and timeless luxury.

‘Wanny Di Filippo, the founder, has always been a creative and unconventional person, characterised by outstanding curiosity. He founded the brand in the early 1970s and received an excellent reception from international

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

buyers for the cowhide accessories he personally designed and produced. The company continues to grow while remaining authentic and true to itself.

‘On a personal level, working and talking with Wanny is always fun: something unexpected and somehow inspiring comes out every time we meet, whether we talk at his favourite restaurant table or in his workshop in Palazzo Corsini amid his collection of more than 3,000 pieces of bison-related memorabilia.

‘The Milan boutique, our

‘The large space allows us to showcase all of the collections’ fourth in Italy, opened its doors last September during Fashion Week. We worked closely with Vudafieri Saverino Partners studio to create a place that emphasised the unique spirit of the brand, mixing the use of our leather with old and new pieces of furniture, adding touches of brilliant colour. The space is

made special and alive thanks to the exhibition of a few objects from Wanny’s bison collection in Florence, and through the prominent presence of a giant statue of a bison, transformed into a display for wallets.

‘The large space allows us to showcase all the brand’s collections - men’s, women’s and small leather goods - as well as have a space dedicated to customisation. Thanks to its technical skills and fine craftsmanship, Il Bisonte can offer customisation of products which ranges from the simple application of initials

Above (from left): Il Bisonte founder Wanny Di Filippo and CEO Sofia Ciucchi; the brand's flagship store in Milan

40 | I N S TO R E

to the design of products ad hoc for clients. A repair and maintenance service is offered for the whole lifetime of the products and reinforces the close bond between the brand, its creations and its users.

‘The materials are a distinctive feature of Il Bisonte’s production. The most famous is our Tuscan cowhide. This leather undergoes a process of vegetable tanning in the district of Santa Croce sull’Arno, 50km from Florence.

As well as reducing the environmental impact and being more sustainable than traditional chemical tanning, this treatment makes the leather distinctive as it allows it to develop a nice patina over time.

‘The spring/summer 2018 collection is a tribute to the Wild West. The women’s collection is characterised by new stylistic details such as fringes and metal stars, which decorate the edges of the bags to give the brand’s iconic models a fresh and contemporary look. The men’s collection presents new features including a camouflage fabric made of a special fibre that is extremely resistant, with almost technical characteristics but a distinctive rough texture.’

Il Bisonte, Via Santo Spirito 14, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3014, ilbisonte.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 74

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

SHOP THE LOOK FOUR OF THE MOST STYLISH BAGS TO PICK UP FROM THE NEW MILAN STORE THIS SEASON

Il Bisonte weekend bag, €1,050

Il Bisonte satchel, €395

Il Bisonte cross-body bag, €545

Il Bisonte tasselled bag, €285

via della Vigna Nuova 24r - www.alcozer.it

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88 101

ONE STEP AHEAD The rise of sportswear in the fashion world is seeing Italy’s leading artisanal shoemakers dip their toes into sneaker culture.

Patrick Clark reports

Above: Alberto Guardiani Onesoul sneakers, spring/summer 2018

44 | F E AT U R E S

T

he artisanal footwear industries of Italy grew and prospered in the second half of the 20th century. With its distinctive model of local family businesses promoting local production, Italy crafted its own style to export to the world. The Marche region has been synonymous with excellence ever since, boasting a network of artisans and factories that produce high-end footwear, from covetable leather creations to made-to-order pieces.

Sneakers – a high-street essential that was once the preserve of sportswear brands – are now becoming a staple of any fashion collection. The potential for luxury brands to turn their hand to sportswear has become more and more apparent, and the rigid demarcation between two design spheres is disappearing. This is creating an emerging market in Italy’s footwear landscape and a visible shift in the country’s shoemaking tradition.

In this new chapter of shoemaking, Italian houses offer a luxury leather take on the

Above: Santoni men’s sneakers

streetwear staple. Corridonia-based Santoni, which started out as a local workshop specialising in made-toorder footwear, has turned its unique savoir faire to creating this sports item. Alongside loafers, double buckles and brogues, the sneaker is now a firm fixture of its collections. Ermenegildo Zegna – synonymous with luxury mens tailoring – has also introduced a smart-casual version of the sporty footwear. The Tiziano trainer has become a go-to style that combines luxury finishing with streetwear codes.

This delicate balance of heritage and innovation is slowly becoming the defining factor of Italy’s fashion scene, with old and new techniques being combined to create a new shoe-making process. For Alberto Guardiani, whose eponymous company has existed since 1947, turning to sportswear was the

Italian houses offer a luxury leather take on the streetwear staple

46 | F E AT U R E S

change that propelled the expansion of the line: ‘I understood the importance of sneakers already in the early 2000s, when we launched our first unisex sneaker, Somerset: tapered with a big G on the side, according to the taste of the time,’ says the designer. ‘The success was so great that the company grew exponentially in very little time.’

Guardiani sees this transition as being ‘linked twofold to the binary of tradition and innovation, insofar as I’m firmly convinced that without know-how, no innovation is possible.’

Considering how luxury formal footwear involves a great deal of specialised skills regarding the processing of leathers, producing sneakers in the same factories is no mean feat. First of all, the materials used in sneakers call for an overhaul of the leather traditions of the Le Marche region, which is where Above (both): Ermenegildo Zegna Tiziano sneakers, spring/summer 2018

PHOTO: XXXX

This balance of heritage and innovation is the defining factor of Italy’s fashion scene

48 | F E AT U R E S

Guardiani’s footwear designs are turned into reality. ‘Using textiles as opposed to leathers requires that the checking process is more advanced,’ he explains. ‘When we work with a textile, we have to predict its future behaviour when it is at first simply assembled on the upper sole and then later when it comes to being worn. So, it represents more work, whether that be in terms of research or of production.’ But the work on materials, as with the traditional craft of the cobbler, is just as refined. Added details include modern touches from the latest special treatments to new lace styles

and, most importantly, rubber soles.

Above all, it’s in response to a discerning customer’s desire for luxury in the sneaker field that Italy has jumped into action. For Fratelli Rossetti, a family firm founded in 1953 and now run by brothers Diego, Dario and Luca, the key is the combination of new models with traditional shoemaking. Production methods are still anchored in craftsmanship in the brand’s factories in Parabiago, near Milan.

‘Heritage is very important for us and modernisation cannot compromise product quality,’ they explain. ‘Although the factory

Above: Alberto Guardiani Somerset sneakers, spring/summer 2018

S H O P | 49

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) © PAOLO MARCHESI

Sneaker lovers will discover a new style of footwear with its own special seal of excellence

boasts the very latest equipment and organisational style, our shoes are still artisanal. Our skilled artisans colour them by hand and then enrich them by adding signature inserts such as tassels or fringes.’

In view of this alliance between traditional handcraft skills and the new models of production and design, Fratelli Rossetti launched

the New Artisan Project in 2016.

The project supports professional up-and-coming creative talents, celebrating the history of handmade products while giving them a contemporary twist. In the resulting ranges, leather variants on sports footwear emerge, and basketball, rugby and football models form part of the collection.

It is in this characteristically distinctive way that Italy’s shoe-making industry is forging its own path into the future: sneaker lovers will discover a new style of footwear with its own special seal of excellence

Above (from top): a detail of a Fratelli Rossetti sneaker; one of the brand’s current models

HISTORY IN THE MAKING Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is a Florentine institution. Sally McIlhone meets its director, Eugenio Alphandery 96

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F

ew brands can trace their history back to the 13th century, but, then again, Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is no ordinary brand. Famed the world over for its fragrances, beauty products, herbal supplements and curative items, the Farmaceutica has rightly become an unmissable stop on any tour of Florence.

‘The story began as far back as 1221 when the Dominicans decided to build their monastery in Florence, where the Officina

Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is still located today,’ explains Eugenio Alphandery, director of this time-honoured epicentre of health, beauty and wellness. ‘The monks started to study and experiment with the properties of healing plants cultivated in the orchards near the monastery.’ Paying tribute to this heritage, the Farmaceutica still nurtures the Santa Maria Novella garden, where it grows many of the raw materials used for its products.

One of the key ingredients raised

Above (from left): Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella’s store in Florence in the past, and in the present day

52 | F E AT U R E S

here is balsamite, described by Alphandery as ‘an aromatic plant well known for its beneficial and calming properties’, which is a key component of two of the Farmaceutica’s traditional favourites: the Pasticche and Acqua di Santa Maria Novella (digestive pastilles and a calming liquid formula originally known as Acqua Antisterica, or anti-hysterics water) that are still available to buy today.

As Alphandery explains, ‘Every single Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella product has its own story to tell, starting with the Acqua della Regina created by the friars for Catherine de’ Medici in 1533 on the occasion of her marriage to Henry II of France.’

It is believed that de’ Medici was ‘one of the earliest people to endorse the Dominican brand’ and so, when she was crowned queen of France, ‘the friars created an essence that came to be known as Acqua della Regina (queen’s water) in her honour.’ Still available to buy today, Acqua della Regina was the Farmaceutica’s first fragrance with alcohol and predates the best-selling Acqua di Colonia which continues to be produced in a wide variety of scents, from Frangipane to Iris and Verbena.

While honouring the brand’s past, Alphandery ensures the Farmaceutica is constantly thinking about its future. As well as selling historical products the company also ‘makes use of research laboratories where innovative products are created’. Alphandery

Few brands can trace their history back to the 13th century, but then this is no ordinary brand continues: ‘In 1999 the property on Via Reginaldo Giuliani was acquired, a building of 4,000 square metres constructed for a farmers’ association in 1930. This is where tradition is perpetuated and renewed, using raw materials of high quality and following the handicraft processes of the Dominicans helped by modern technology and first-class machinery.’ It is this combination of heritage with modernity that has ensured the Farmaceutica remains relevant for today’s modern visitor. ‘“Tradition and innovation” has been, and still is, the motto of the Officina di Santa Maria Novella, and it is a principle

Above: Pasticche di Santa Maria Novella digestive pastilles

S H O P | 53

Above: Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella director Eugenio Alphandery

54 | F E AT U R E S

It is famed for its fragrances and more, and has rightly become an unmissable stop in Florence I have tried to apply both to broadening the range of products and to opening stores abroad.’ With over 30 stores worldwide, there is no question that Alphandery’s strategy has been an effective one.

The Via della Scala store is the perfect example of how the Farmaceutica balances this blend of history and modernity. As well as being able to invest in the latest innovative products, visitors can also admire the museum sections of the boutique to learn more about the brand’s rich history. ‘The shop on Via della Scala is open to the public and can be visited by

appointment, as can the garden of medical plants and the production premises. On display in the museum sections of the shop are antique pharmacy instruments (thermometers, mortars, moulds for soap), glassware (bottles, alembics) and one of the most complete and interesting collections of ceramic apothecary jars in Tuscany, made in Montelupo between the closing decades of the 16th and the first quarter of the 17th century. Also on show in the museum are the old machinery and tools used in the manufacture of products.’ Though these historical displays are an

Above (from left): Acqua di Colonia Lana, the brand’s newest fragrance; one of the museum sections in the Via della Scala boutique

S H O P | 55

obvious draw, Alphandery is keen to frame the Farmaceutica as a contemporary company rather than an ancient relic. ‘Even though a small part of the shop is devoted to this, I have never regarded the Officina as a museum, but as a company oriented towards innovation that has its roots in history while continually updating its contents and carefully avoiding the

risk of turning into a showcase of the past.’

Thanks to its unique product selection, captivating heritage and investment in the brand’s future in the form of its hi-tech production facility, Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella ensures it is so much more than a museum piece.

Instead, it remains a reason for visitors to return to Florence time and time again

Above (from top right): inside the Farmaceutica’s research laboratory; the brand’s craftsmanship; Acqua di Colonia Melograno, a unisex fragrance launched in 1965

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ITALY GUIDE

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Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Italy with a look at its cities’ must-visit destinations.

Discover the best contemporary art galleries in Rome and take a traditional gondola ride on the waterways of Venice (pictured). Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our welltravelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/italy.

ROME - 60

MILAN - 68

VENICE - 75

FLORENCE - 81

58 | I TA LY G U I D E

1

2

3

4

SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY ‘Florence’s rich culture is apparent in everything from its art to its ice cream’ - HANNAH LEWIS, SHOP’S FEATURES EDITOR

PHOTOS: HANNAH LEWIS; FANI MARI; RUAIRIDH PRITCHARD; CARLOTA ZHANG

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ROME ● Via del Babuino SO OR LC DE VIA

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● Via Belsiana & Via Mario de’ Fiori VIA VIT TOR

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Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 63

PAROSH The spring/summer 2018 collection from womenswear label Parosh, with its particularly appealing full-length dresses, slogan T-shirts and kimono-style tops, is full of colour, playful prints and floral motifs. Founder Paolo Rosello started his fashion career by customising vintage pieces; in a nod to these beginnings, Parosh’s contemporary designs are often finished with vintage-inspired elements.

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Piazza Del Popolo

T TA

Al Bolognese

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Monitor, Via Sforza Cesarini 43A, 00186 Rome, +39 06 3937 8024, monitoronline.org 3. Chiostro del Bramante This stunning Renaissance building houses some of the most immersive contemporary art in Rome. The beautifully restored multi-functional space hosts exhibitions by some of Italy’s most exciting young artists.

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● Via del Corso (Central)

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● SOPHIE CHARLOTTE VICOLO DEL PIO M B O

SCHEGGE ●

● OUTLET ● TEBE ● LEVIATAN ● SALOMÈ ● LE GROUP ● ALCOTT ● CLASS ● RIENZI

STEFANEL ●

VIA D EL P L EBIS CITO V I A M A R C O M IN

G H E T TI

VI A CES AR E B ATT

ISTI

PIAZZA DEI SANTISSIM I APOSTOLI

AS CH

RA

● HAMMERSMITH

VIA DEL CORSO

RG AM

VICO LO S CIAR

● OMAI NOW OR NEVER STELLA À 'U M ILT ● ZETA A DE LL VIA DI SAN MA RCELLO

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA BE

● SPADA

VITE

● DOPPELGANGER ● EDAS

VICOLO DORIA

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VIA DEL CORSO

CASADEI ●

VIA DEL CORSO

V I A LATA

FLORSHEIM ●

R AVITA

VI A F RATTINA

VIA DEL LA

Piazza Venezia VI A D EL C A

LOUIS VUITTON ●

● CARSHOE

GUTTERIDGE ● MIRIADE ● YAMAMAY ●

V IA DI SANTA MARIA IN VIA

BARONE ●

OYSHO ●

VATURI ● LA CONCERIA ●

● C’ART ● OTTICA F. LA BARBERA ● SARTORIA ROSSI

ZUIKI ● SPADA ●

VIA DEL CORSO

MOOD ● ROBERTO ANTICOLI ●

CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● ● BRACCIALINI AERONAUTICA MILITARE ● BOGGI ●

TIM ●

AU DIA

COCCINELLE ● ● DAMIANO PRESTA BE TWEEN ● PIQUADRO ● ● FURLA ● BOGGI ● MASSIMO DUTTI LA FEL TRINELLI ●

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA SAN CL

● ZARA

Galleria Alberto Sordi

DANIELLE ●

NON A

R AVITA

CELIO ●

Piazza di San Silvestro

Piazza del Parlamento

Piazza Colonna

● PASQUALE BRUNI

LUXURY OUTLET ●

HOYA ●

VIA BOR GOG

O

VI A D EL C A

VIA DELLE CONVE RT IT E

DAN JOHN ●

T TI

● Via del Corso (South)

● PIKOLINOS ● MISS SIXTY

VIA DEL PARLAMENTO

POMELLATO ●

G A M B ER

● TISSOT ● DAVID MAYER NAMAN ● CALZEDONIA ● MANGO ● SWATCH

INTIMISSIMI ●

OND O

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

● SAINT LAURENT ● AUDEMARS PIGUET

VIA DE L

VIA DEL CORSO

LUXURY OUTLET ● 7 CAMICIE ● SISLEY ● DAVID HAMILTON ● CORNER ● CARPISA ● PRIMADONNA ● HAUSMANN & CO ● ACCESSORIZE ● PUMA ●

● BONPOINT

● BOTTEGA VENETA

VIA BELSIANA

Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

VIA C OTHER PEOPLES ●

● SWAROVSKI ● INTIMISSIMI UOMO ● YAMAMAY ● FALCONERI ● PATRIZIA PEPE ● ASOLE E BOTTONI ● NARA CAMICIE ● KIKO NON A VIA BOR GOG ● SANDRO FERRONE ● TEZENIS ● G.D.V. ● MARC O’POLO ● COLONNA ● LUISA SPAGNOLI VIA FRATTINA POLO RALPH ● LAUREN ● YAMAMAY ● OTTICA EFRATI ● ALDO ● WYCON DISNEY ● STORE ● GRILLI

ZIO

I

AR

N D O TT

OBOR ●

VI A CO

CRUCIANI & BELLA ●

● LIU JO

CA

FER RAR I ● STORE

L L I FENDI ●

GIOIELLERIA CRISTIANA ●

CE

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ● FRANK LO ●

MA

VIA DEL CORSO

TO

VIA BELSIANA

● TWIN-SET ● ZARA ● EXOTICA

H&M ●

VIA

● Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina

66 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Via del Tritone, Piazza di San Silvestro, Via di San Claudio & Via delle Convertite E

● BEDETTI

Piazza di San Silvestro

VIA D ELLE C ON VE

MOUN TAIN ● AFFA IRS STOR E

● MELLUSO

● STONEFLY

● MUJI

SB LEATHER ● SHOP ● SAXOH’S

● REMAX

● GIOIELLERIA

VI A DEL TRITONE

LARGO CHIGI

RT ITE

DI CORI ● BOX 51 ●

MR MUZIO ● TRITONE FURS ●

FUSARO ● VODAFONE ● B&H ●

RIMOWA ●

O

D-STORE ● TIGER ● SPADA ● ALTARIVA ●

Piazza di San Claudio

ETT V I A D E L P OZ Z

LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

● MEDICI

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANO ●

LIMONI ● ● GERARD

● SETTIMIO MIELI

GERA RD ● ● + VISTA ● TRIS

L AU DIO

● GEMME E DIAMANTI

● UNOPIÚ

Galleria Alberto Sordi

ME RC ED

TIMBERLAND ●

● CARHARTT

VISION OPTIKA ●

VIA DEL CORSO

VIA DI SA N C

VI A D EL LA

TIT E

TECH IT EASY ● SUPERDRY ● STONEFLY ● NAPAPIJRI ● NEW BALANCE ●

VIA DELLE C O NV ER

● Via del Tritone TI DAN JOHN ●

VI A ZU

NA

BLUE SAND ● CLIÒ ●

CC H EL

IS

DELSEY ● GATTEGNA ● ALLEMBY 101 ● UNITED COLORS OF BENETTON ●

CLARKS ●

SOUVENIR SHOP ● KRUDER ●

ELL

WHITE MOOD ●

AC I

JOELA ●

CLASS ●

EM

MICHAEL F ● SEPHORA ●

I DU

ESTHER ● MISS ROBERTA ●

DE

AS

LI

VI

VIA

Rinascente

VIA DEL TRITONE TI VI ER IS

AS IS

DE

VI TI

● PINOCCHIO

SANDRO ● FERRONE

NA

● DOPPELGANGER

V I A D E G L I AV I G N O N E S I

● VALLI

● ADELE ALTMAN

● MAX & CO

● PRONOVIAS

● SAMSONITE

● OVS INDUSTRY

N

● R BAZZOCCHI CASUCCIO & ● SCALERA

VIA DEL TRITONE

BARBERINI FONTANA DI TREVI Piazza Barberini

SHOP TAX FREE APP This season’s ultimate travel companion is the new SHOP TAX FREE app. Our city maps will take you to the best Tax Free Shopping destinations in Italy, including the world’s leading brands and high-street names. After your shopping day is over, use the app to find nearby city centre Refund Offices and track the progress

of your refund. Don’t miss a visit to our new VIP Lounges in Milan, Rome and Venice.

Once your passport details are stored, your Tax Free Forms can be autofilled with one click. The SHOP TAX FREE app is available in English, Chinese and Russian; download it free from Google Play or the App Store.

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

Department Store

Metro

E NG L IS H | Р УС С К И Й | 中 文

VISIT US ONLINE...

Visit globalblue.com, our recently relaunched website, for the latest luxury shopping and travel stories, updated daily Погрузитесь в мир роскошного шоппинга и увлекательных путешествий, посетив наш обновлённый сайт – globalblue.ru 访问我们近日新版上线的网站 globalblue.cn, 了解最新奢华 购物旅游信息，每日更新

SHOP

FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu PHOTO: MEREDITH BRADEN BUCHER

@GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- GlobalBlue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue @shopmagazine_

68 | I TA LY G U I D E

MILAN ● Corso Venezia CAMPAGNA ● BISBIGLI ● CULTI ● ITALIAN INDEPENDENT ● RAIMONDI DI PETTINAROLI ● MOSCA ● MATIA'S ●

● RENCO

VIA

SEN

DE BERNARDI ● OTTICA VENEZIA ● LIVIANI ● MADINA ● FARMACIA ● FORNASETTI ●

AT O

COR SO V EN EZIA

GIÒ COLLETTO ● THUN ● PAR 5 ● TOMBOLINI ● BELSIRE ● THE FLEXX ● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ●

Tartufi & Friends ● MESAMIS

MALLONI ●

● ARMANI CASA ● STONE ISLAND ● ADD ● ALFIERI ST.JOHN ● WOLFORD ● GAGÀ MILANO DOLCE & GABBANA ● DOLCE & GABBANA BARBIERE ● ● ROY ROGERS FLAVIO CASTELLANI ● ● DIEGO M PHILIPP PLEIN ● ● ULTIMA EDIZIONE NERO GIARDINI ● ● EMPRESA NERO GIARDINI JUNIOR ● ● NOMINATION DOLCE & GABBANA ● CHRISTOFLE COS ● ● ALBERTO ● GUARDIANI MORESCHI ● ● PAOLO TONALI WOOLRICH ● ● RED VALENTINO ● LOVE MOSCHINO CROMIA ● ● M MISSONI ● FRANKIE MORELLO V IA ● HOME ZARA B

V IA

MON

Z IA

V IA

SA N

T ’A N

CO RSO V E N E

DRE

A

LUCIANO PADOVAN ● DOLCE & GABBANA ●

TEN

AGU T TA

APO

L EO

SAN BABILA

NE

Piazza San Babila

● Piazza San Babila & Corso Matteotti V

VIA GU BA

VEN EZI A COR SO

Metro Gelateria

CI

RTO

Non-Global Blue Retailer Bar

CE NTA

’O ALL

Global Blue Retailer Restaurant

A● IT TA L E ● M ID ARTE ARTE ● NA LIA

VIA SA

O ● LE G

TRO

P LY I SUP IE L L U IT G IO ●S F IL A ● ICA N B A BC I ● S ANNUC ●V

PIE SAN

VIA BORGOGNA

FO N TA

S● FLO N ● A E PL

NFORTE CORSO MO

● SALMOIRAGHI VIGANÒ ● RAY- BAN ● EDDY MONETTI ● BROSWAY ● FLORSHEIM ● BOGGI ● MILANO OFFICIAL STORE BALDININI ● TREND ● CAMICISSIMA ● DIESEL ● GUESS

● ESCADA ● JUST CAVALLI

VIA

● UNIFOR ● RODO ● MORONI GOMMA

● BORBONESE

SAN BABILA

Piazza San Carlo

LUC

NE EO OL

LIVIANA CONTI ●

P NA TE ON M

BOSS STORE ● ROBERTO FESTA ●

A TT

VIA DODO ● FABBRICA PELLETTERIE MILANO ●

Sant’Ambroeus Bar

MAZZOLARI ● TIMBERLAND ● NEGRI FIRENZE ● ALDO BRUÈ ● HARMONT & BLAINE ●

FERUTDIN ZAKIROV ●

DE MATTIA ● PASABAHCE ● PIKENZ ●

JECKERSON ● ALVIERO MARTINI ● SARA GIUNTI ● GRAVATI ● CANALI ●

CORSO MATTEO TTI

DE PADOVA ●

S H O P | 69

FIDENZA VILLAGE Just over 60 minutes from Milan and Bologna, in the heart of Italy’s Food Valley, visitors will find more than 120 boutiques from Italian and international brands offering reductions of up to 70% on the recommended retail price. With nine cafés and restaurants to choose from, free Wi-Fi throughout the village and on-site Tax Free Shopping services, the outlet village is a perfect place to spend an afternoon shopping some of Italy’s best brands.

Fidenza Village, Via San Michele Campagna, 43036 Fidenza, +39 0524 33551, fidenzavillage.com

● Corso Buenos Aires VI

AF

EL

AT I

RE

AS

AN

FI

LO

CA

ST AL

DI

IA

MUTINELLI CAPPELLI ● FOSSIL ● ● H&M BLUKIDS ● SOLARIS ● KIKO ● ● SAN PIETRO MILANO PEPE JEANS ● ● DOCKSTEPS STEFANEL ●

RE

EN

EN

ET

DOUGLAS ● PERSONA ● ALTIERI ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

O

● F.LLI SOLENNE GIOIELLI

● MILANO HOUSE OF CASHMERE

RT AV

● TOMMY HILFIGER

EN

EZ

IA

Piazza Guglielmo Oberdan

PORTA VENEZIA VI

AM

AR

C

L EL

OM

AL

PIG

HI

ZO

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GI

EL

PO

NA

M

DI

OV

GI

A

NI

RI

BU

TO

OS

AI

RE

IO

LE

VI

ST

IT

O

BA

EV

RS

AL

CO

VI

AP

S

VI

CO

RS

O

BU

EN

OS

AI

EC

S

PANDORA ● L'OCCITANE ● ● FURLA ELENA MIRÒ ● ● RITA BOUTIQUE STROILI ORO ● ● LIU JO GEOX ● ● OLTRE AL SWAROVSKI ● ● MORELLATO ET YAMAMAY ● ● DANIEL & MAYER UN Grom IS ● ANTONY MORATO IA ● TWIN SET FOOT LOCKER ● VI ● LEVI'S NARA CAMICIE ● AL ● AERONAUTICA MILITARE PUMA ● AZ ZA ● KIPLING CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● RO ● CARRERA JEANS PA ● NIKE MILANO LA ZZ I D-MAIL ● Piazza Santa ZAGO COSMETICS ● ● PIQUADRO Francesca Romana GAMESTOP ● ● GUESS KIDS V ● GUESS STRADIVARIUS ●

IC

VI

● FORTELA

OV AN

NA

70 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, Piazza del Duomo & Via Torino I TA

ER

GH AR TA M

AN AS VI

● OXUS ● CHANEL

CORSO VITTORIO EM ANUELE DUOMO

CORSO VI T TOR IO EMANUELE

OV

A PE SP CK A D ● AR

S

IN

ZA DU

ST

RY

RA

●

MONDADORI ●

VI

UNITED COLORS OF BENETTON●

P.7 4

TIFFANY & CO ● ● FERRARI STORE Autogrill- Terrazza Aperol ● GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE CURRADO ● GRIMOLDI ● RUGGERI ● LA FARMACIA CARLO ERBA ●

Cordusio

Pasticceria Marchesi

SARTORIA ROSSI ● CIELO 1914 ●

● PRADA

VIA MENGONI

MASSIMO DUTTI ● STEFANEL ● NARA CAMICIE ● CADÉ ●

GA L LERIA VIT TORIO EMAN U ELE

VIA MENGO NI

● BORSALINO ● MONTBLANC ● MEJANA ● PIUMELLI ● CHURCH’S LUISA SPAGNOLI ● ● NOLI ● BRIC’S LEO PIZZO ● ● GUCCI PRADA ● DANTE CORDUSIO ● GIORGIO ARMANI ● LOUIS VUITTON Piazza TOD’S ● SWAROVSKI ● VERSACE ●

VIA S.PELLICO

COMUNE DI MILANO URBAN CENTRE ● RIZZOLI ● ANDREW’S TIES ●

Piazza Del Duomo

● OY ● S ● LUIGI VERGA I ● NT HO TT I V E IQ IC MIS ● SW GA M UE T C OR SIM A ● EE VE NA M ● TR D I NA L ZE IA T RD U ● E EL 'S ● W E E G SE CA R A DO M P i a S S E I O I M A AY ● ● N C ar z z S EL C ● AM IA CR GE MP ET ● i a a S P O LO ● OX E R IC F B R ● I O E ● SA el an T ● DE OT t t LM ● LO AW r a d a S OI M I e ● AN GU CKE OROLOGERIA RA P L P ● M R GO AL GH UL AN M AB ● LUIGI VERGA ● NI CS I & L & DO UJI ● BA KE VI BE R A ● TH S ● A G ● T KI AN R & OR VE ● ● EH B VI RG OD E GU L Ò ● ● C A E Y ● K AR ES ’S ● SA W ● K IK PI LIO S N OR TA T ● PI E Y O SA ● M KS AC M K B E LL EZ AU Y CE IE O● W ENI RI S N I ● YA SO DI EIJ S ● LIO R L RI XI O ● MA MA Z E ● T M E ● A ● OT RC A VI ● TER TIC O Y RA A ● TR AL O NOBA CO N Y VA R E L ● TT LO FL A A ● NT .FU O’ RE FE ON G ITALIA MISSORI RR EL A Z IZ A● AN L A ZI TE

Piazza Pio XI UT

BO

●

VI

A

TO

RI

NO

BO

I

VIA MAZZINI

VIA

DEL

N L' U

ION

E

CAMBIAGHI For spring/summer 2018 Italian heritage brand Cambiaghi has teamed up with newcomer Vibi Venezia to create a capsule collection of bags and shoes.

Venetian footwear label Vibi Venezia reworked Cambiaghi’s Lola tote and Luna bucket bags using striped canvas, while the long-established Milanese bag Global Blue Retailer Metro

and hat brand has given Vibi Venezia’s slippers a makeover with a leather trim. Combining the identity of both labels, this capsule collection of accessories captures the essence of an Italian summer to perfection. grc Cambiaghi, Via Borgonuovo 14, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7862 1170, cambiaghimilano.com

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

Café

Bar

12 floors of food and fashion

72 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Corso Vittorio Emanuele

VIA DURINI

PA

E

EU

RO

EL

O

E

TO

NU

RS

UEL

VIA PATTA

Piazza Del Duomo

AN

VIT

MA

CO

EM

RSO

● GAP ● ADIDAS ● TEZENIS ● PULL & BEAR ● SEPHORA

R IO

● NARA CAMICIE ● LIBERO MILANO

V IT TO

CO

E RIO

SAN BABILA Piazza San Babila ● SISLEY

O

INTIMISSIMI ● CELIO ● TISSOT ●

LL

● URBAN OUTFITTERS

LO

Rinascente

H&M ● ROCCA 1794 ●

OTTICA VANZINA ● Y NOT ? ●

CO R S O

NE

● ALCOTT-GUTTERIDGE ● CARPISA P.34 ● FALCONERI & OTHER STORIES ● ● INTIMISSIMI INGLOT ● ● LUSH MISS SIXTY ● ● Signorvino NARA CAMICIE ● ● FOOTBALL TEAM ● OD STORE FURLA ●

AG

● BERSHKA MAX MARA ● ● MANGO ● Excelsior P.36 MAX&CO ● ● KIKO PENNYBLACK ● ● MOTIVI I BLUES ● ● WYCON MARELLA ● ● YAMAMAY MARINA RINALDI ●

PA O

A

ZARA MEN ● ZARA ● CALZEDONIA ●

SAN

VI

● OYSHO ● LUISA SPAGNOLI KIKO ● SWATCH ● ● MILAN MEGA STORE ● MICHAEL KORS GOBBI ● ● PINKO MARILENA ● ● DISNEY SWAROVSKI ● ● LIU JO ● THE HIGHLINE ● FOOT LOCKER

VIA

MARIUCCIA ●

Piazza San Carlo

MASSIMO DUTTI ● GEOX ●

● RIMOWA

UNITED COLORS OF BENETTON ●

CLARKS ●

Piazza San Fedele

RI

7 FOR ALL MANKIND

PHOTO: (LEFT) ANDREW PARSONS I/IMAGES

This season 7 For All Mankind presents a range of jeans for men and women in a variety of washes from dark through to light blue. Other variations include distressed and bleached styles.

Alternatives to jeans include chinos for men and classic denim miniskirts for women, all of which can be paired with a plain white tee, a chambray shirt or a denim jacket from the spring/ summer 2018 collection. As ever, the Californian brand can be counted on for premium-quality denim and a great fit.

7 For All Mankind, Via Alessandro Manzoni 43, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4950 4361, 7forallmankind.eu FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 74

Global Blue Retailer Department Store

Non-Global Blue Retailer Metro

Featured In This Issue Bar

S H O P | 73

● Via Pietro Verri, Piazza Meda & Via Sant’Andrea MOSCHINO ●

VIA DELLA SPIGA

ROGER VIVIER ● BOTTEGA VENETA ● AGNONA ● CHURCH’S ● GIVENCHY ● CARLO ELEUTERI ● MAISON MARGIELA ● BORSALINO ● LE SILLA ● ERES ●

● BERLUTI

VIA SANT’ANDREA

VIA GESÙ

SAINT LAURENT ● MIU MIU ●

JIMMY CHOO ● CASADEI ●

● JIL SANDER NAVY ● PREMIATA ● HERNO ● GIAMBATTISTA VALLI ERIKA CAVALLINI ● SEMI- COUTURE ● CHANEL ● IRIS ● STUART WEITZMAN ● BANNER ● CHIARA BONI ● CESARE PACIOTTI ● DORIANI VIA B AG U T TA ● MISSONI

VIA M O NTENAPOLEONE ● PIAGET

PATEK PHILIPPE - PISA ● VACHERON CONSTANTIN - PISA ● PISA OROLOGERIA ●

PIA MARIANI ● TUMI ● TOM FORD ● JULIPET ● CANALI ● BALDININI ● ELEVENTY ● PUNTO OTTICO ●

● ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ● JIL SANDER ● FREDDY ● LA MARTINA ● DSQUARED2 ● PALADINI

● FRIEDERIC MALLE

Piazza Meda

CASTELLANI ●

1. N’Ombra de Vin In the city’s fashionable Brera district is one of Milan’s hidden gems. N’Ombra de Vin is a winebar and shop housed in an underground wine cellar, filled with some of the finest wines in Milan, and not to be missed.

N’Ombra de Vin, Via San Marco 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 659 9650, nombradevin.it

● GUCCI

VI A PIETRO VERRI

ETRO PROFUMI ● CRUCIANI ● JOHN RICHMOND ● VIA BIG LI ICEBERG ●

TOP 3...

MILAN WINE BARS

● Via San Pietro all’Orto

2. Signorvino With arguably one of the best terraces in Milan, Signorvino offers patrons some of the most stunning views of the Duomo, as well as one of the city’s best stocked wine shops. Share a bottle on the terrace, and buy a few more to take home.

Signorvino, Piazza del Duomo 22, 20122 Milan, +39 02 8909 2539, signorvino.com

● ISAIA BOGLIOLI ●

V IA

MASCHIO ●

● ALCANTARA

SAN

PIN-UP ●

POMELLATO ●

● BAGUTTA ● IL GUFO

P IE

COR SO M ATT EOT TI

TRO

VERSACE COLLECTION ●

’O R ALL

● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH ZEPTER ● INTERNATIONAL MONDADODRI MULTICENTER ● ● BROOKS BROTHERS SAMSONITE ● ● PRONOVIAS MAURO LEONE ● YOUNG VERSACE ●

TO

CONTIGO ●

● SOUL LIGHT DESIGN ● SUPERGA ● SANDRO FERRONE ● MARCO FOR PETS ONLY ● BOSE ●

CASHMIRINO ●

CO

globalblue.com

RSO

V

OR IT T

IO E

MA

NU

EL

E

3.Vino al Vino As soon as visitors enter Vino al Vino, they are surrounded by some of the country’s finest wines. With shelves filled with hundreds of bottles lining the walls, guests can enjoy a glass from any bottle of their choosing.

Vino al Vino, Via Gaspare Spontini 11, 20131 Milan, + 39 02 2941 4928, enotecavinoalvino.it

74 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Via Montenapoleone & Via della Spiga I ALL ● SAH R A 7 FO R ● 72 M A N K IN D VILEBREQ UIN ● N I P. A R M A ZO NI 31 CASTELLO D’ORO ● I N A N M BYBLOS ● ● MONTENAPOLEONE A N ZO COLOMBO ● V IA M PIQUADRO ● NT ● GA FRETTE ● 7 ON ER I R IB LU LC P.3 LO FA DE NICOLA ● ● ● ● EL IA NI VE RT UA ● GUSELLA ● SA ● CO RNO GN NK BO UT IQ UE - PI PI ZE ● DO X EG IL ● RO LE ER M EN DE SI GN NE LL I ● NO TT I LO CU CI NC ● EP PE ZA EM PO LI RG O SP ES SO BR UN EL M ON TB LA ● ● GI US ER IE DI HO GA NA ● V IA BO ● VE TR AN PI LO RO RO SS I ● GA MO PU CC I ● EM ILI O LVAT OR E F ER RA SE RG IO ● SA SALVINI ● CELINE ● NT IN O e ● VA LE ANGELO FUSCO ● Gl ob al Blu VIA SANTO SPIRIT O SWATCH ● Lo un ge LANVIN ● BALDININI ● ● IL BISO NTE HOGAN ● ● ALBERTA FERRETTI P.40 BILLIONAIRE ● MICHELA BRUNI REICHLIN ● ● MALO KRIZIA● BUCCELLATI ● RUBINACCI ● MARIANO PHILIPP PLEIN ● AKRIS ● CUSI GIOIELLIERI ● ● ACQUA DI PARMA DEVI KROELL ● VIA GESÙ VHERNIER ● & CO ● TIFFANY FABIO GAVAZZI ● ● CARTIER LOEWE ● ERIKA CAVALLINI ● ● PAUL & SHARK COACH ● ● LA PERLA FRANCK MULLER ITALIA INDEPENDENT ● GENEVE ● BREGUET ● ● HERMÈS RICHARD MILLE ● Illy Caffe ● ● MARNI POMELLATO ● RIVOLTA DAL ● DIOR GIADA ● 1883 MILANO ● ● BURBERRY CURIEL ● ● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS FAY ● ASPESI ● ● VENINI VERSACE ● POLLINI ● ● ALBA ELOISA Pasticceria Marchesi ● MIU MIU ● ● DAMIANI HENRY BEGUELIN ● OMEGA ●

Piazza Croce Rossa

VIA SANT’ANDREA

SCAVIA ● Cova COLOMBO VIA ● PRADA DONNA DELLA SPIGA ● ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN SICIS JEWELS ● ● FEDELI RED AND BLUE TORY BURCH ● MONCLER ENFANT ● ● BALLY CAMPOMAGGI ● ● SABBADINI BRACCIALINI ● ● ROBERTO CAVALLI MARCO BICEGO ● TATRAS ● ● CAMPER CAR SHOE ● ● SANTONI SPIGA UNO ● CHIMENTO ● ● PRADA UOMO FALCONERI ● ● AUDEMARS PIGUET ORCIANI ● FAUSTO PUGLISI ● ● DOLCE & GABBANA

VIA DEL L A SPIG A

VIA M ONTENAPOLEONE

LARUSMIANI ● GUCCI ● ETRO ● NARA CAMICIE ● HOGAN ● SUTOR MANTELLASSI ● FENDI CASA ● FENDI ● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● MONCLER ● IWC ● SIMONETTA RAVIZZA

BY ANNABELLA ● JAEGER LE-COULTRE ● OFFICINE PANERAI ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ●

● RUCOLINE ● MOORER ● LES COPAINS ● MAISON MARGIELA ● SERMONETA GLOVES ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● FABIANA FILIPPI ● ROSATO ● I PINCO PALLINO ● SERAPIAN ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● ALAN JOURNO ● MEGA FASHION

VIA D EL L A SPIG A

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE

V I A VERRI

● PAKERSON ● MONNA LISA ● PRETTY BALLERINAS ● PIAZZA SEMPIONE ● ROCCO BAROCCO ● SARABANDA

● GIORGIO ARMANI ● LOUIS VUITTON ● BULGARI

CO

V R SO

● NILU FAR ● V-GRASS ● Nº 30 MILANO ● L.B.M. 1911 ● BLUMARINE ● CHLOÉ ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● TOD’S ● SPORTMAX ● PRADA

● DSQUARED2 ● CHOPARD ● MICHAEL KORS ● PASQUALE BRUNI ● PEUTEREY ● LONGCHAMP ● GIÒ MORETTI ● ERMANNO SCERVINO ● DOLCE & GABBANA

ENE

ZIA

S

PECK

PHOTO: © GIOVANNI PANAROTTO FOTOGRAFO

One of the most exclusive food shopping destinations in Milan, Peck is the ultimate place to invest in edible souvenirs. Founded in 1883, this historic deli offers everything from chocolate to pâté, oils and truffles from some of the most acclaimed breeders, dairies and other producers in Italy.

Peck, Via Spadari 9, 20123 Milan, +39 02 802 3161, peck.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 70

Global Blue Retailer Metro

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Lounge

Café

Restaurant

S H O P | 75

VENICE ● Calle Larga XXII Marzo & Salizada San Moisè

C . BAR

SSO

Featured In This Issue

ARE

PHOTO: VERITY HOGAN

E E L IN ●C O ANN O E R M E R V IN C 5 S ● .3 P 'S L LO RCH R E U N H BRU ELLI ● ● C E R N IE H IN ONI ●V CUC S IS ● M M IA N I ● A & CO ●D NY IF FA

O●

ALL LE V

AT R O

Il Papiro is a place of pilgrimage for lovers of artisanal products and is famous for its exquisitely crafted stationery. Its Venice store offers a striking selection of beautiful journals with marbled covers, diaries and albums, as well as papers and place cards that can be hand-engraved on request.

Il Papiro, Calle del Piovan, San Marco 2764, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 3055, ilpapirofirenze.it

T

OISÈ

CAL

I

NM

● CHANEL ● TAG HEUER ● CHANEL ● LORO PIANA

Z OZ

DIOR ● RENÈ CAOVILLA ● A. CODOGNATO ● HERMÈS ●

A SA

ETR

IL PAPIRO

Global Blue Lounge

SA LIZ A D

GALLERIA DELL’ ASCENSIONE ●

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ●

C . D. T E

C C HI

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

C A LL E P EDRO

● ARMANI

● CONTINI GALLERIA D'ARTE

● BURBERRY ● LA COUPOLE UOMO ● MALO

● GUCCI ● DOLCE & GABBANA

A R ZO

● TOD’S

X II M

● FABIANA FILIPPI

RGA X

PRADA DONNA ● VERSACE ● MICHAEL KORS ●

MONCLER ● CHANEL ●

POMELLATO ●

MONTBLANC ● FEDON ●

LE L A

MARINA E SUSANNA SENT ●

G lobal Blue L ounge

JESURUM ●

PAUL & SHARK ● ZORA FOREVER ●

LA COUPOLE DONNA ● SERAPIAN ● FAIDRA HANNA ●

CAL

Campo S. Moisè

OMEGA ● JIMMY CHOO ● ● SISLEY LOUIS O ZER IA OT T ● VUITTON FREZ L RID E DE BULGARI ● CALL GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ● I FRATELLI ROSSETTI ● R T IR CARTIER ● 3 MA C . D .1 BOTTEGA VENETA ● MIU MIU ● PRADA UOMO ●

FRETTE ● ● RA ZA A● RES E M P A C R I ● BALLIN M D I ● PROJECT ● FEN

76 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Piazza San Marco

LEONCINII ●

VENINI ●

PAULY ●

ANTICA MURRINA ● VENEZIA

IA

DE

JUNIOR ●

Piazza San Marco

U- BOAT ● OFFICINA BERNARDI ● FOPE GIOIELLI ● OLIVETTI ● AM ● FOTORECORD ● ORTOLANI ● MODOLO ● SANSOVINO ● I MARKUS ● BR HUGO BOSS ● AB DEGANI ● IF BOTTEGA D'ARTE SAN MARCO ●

AD ● CAMILLA ●

Gran Caffè Quadri

BONCOMPAGNI ● ROBERTO COIN ● OLGA ASTA ● AD ●

Caffè Lavena

E

CAL

● VISCONTI ORLANDINI ● ARCADIA ● BOLDRIN ● ENNIO ● JAEGER-LECOULTRE ● 66 SESSANTASEI ● SALVADORI ● MARTINUZZI ● NARDI

Caffè Florian

● CENEDESE ● TREVISAN ● IWC ● ROLEX ● TREVISAN R.S. ● OFFICINE PANERAI ● GALLERIA RAVAGNAN ● CHOPARD ● FREY WILLE ● G. PAGAN ● SAN MARCO 55

L‘A S LE L A R G A D E

CEN

N

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S IO

FREZ

Featured In This Issue

Café

P.80

AR

LL

PALESA GALLERY ● ARCHIMEDE SEGUSO ● OTTICA PENZO ● AD ● GIOIELLERIA SAN MARCO ●

CA

O

IS È

N MO A SA ZAD

SA LI

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Retailer

● FABRIS AUDEMARS ● PIGUET ● TOKATZIAN ● SERENDIPITY ● BEVILACQUA SUV-VENETIAN ● BEADS MP HA GC O N DA N O ● LG IO R AN È UR ● IR ES IA M ● D NEZ E ●V I IN D AN RL ● O S CO E ● V U LY A P ●

Piazzetta dei Leoncini

VESCO

Home to some of the finest silver and gold jewellery in Venice, Vesco’s characterful boutique on Piazza San Marco is a must-visit. Drawing on decades of experience, the store stocks only the finest pieces, and its members of staff are committed to finding the perfect item for every visitor.

Vesco, Piazza San Marco, San Marco 75-76, 30124 Venice, +39 041 520 3853

Salvadori Diamond Atelier Piazza San Marco, 67 - Venezia Galleria Porti, 2 - Vicenza

www.salvadori-venezia.com/blog

78 | I TA LY G U I D E

IL RIDOTTO With only nine tables Il Ridotto may be small, but its food leaves a big impression. Awarded a Michelin star in 2013, the restaurant is a hit with foodies and locals alike. With a strong focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients and distinctive flavours, the seafood focused menu is one of the most mouth-watering in Venice. Typical dishes such as lobster with Aperol, strawberries and raspberries, roasted pilgrim scallops, and guinea hen ravioli with black truffle mean this tiny restaurant is guaranteed to serve a meal to remember.

Il Ridotto, Campo Santi Filippo e Giacomo, Castello 4509, 30122 Venice, +39 041 520 8280, ilridotto.com

● Mercerie di San Salvador, Capitello, San Zulian & dell’Orologio A LV AD

OR

T FONDACO ● DEI TEDESCHI CA RI ER EC O N EO CK B T R E A LC T L E ● F OO CR A ● F SE TIC ● 2 'S VE P.3 IA CA D U KO O R PI ● ● K IV I C T A D R O TE ● QU I P LL ●

TW I IC NA A M R A BR N SE A N C A O CC T ● TO MIC A ● VA E LI VE NI ● AP NE ● TO IE ZI M AS TR A SC A ● SI A ● M B B A O DB A L L U PA L U LY ● L Z DIN T T ● I I P I I L E R N I ●● NK I O ● ●

MATERIALMENTE VENEZIA ● FROLLO ●

TA G

L’O

TT

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● ● C ● L RU ● E XU N A CIA GU CL C N ● ID US RE I ● L OR IV A Z ● C YR EN E IO ● M OC A NI IO ● OT U R CIN TT ● YA T I A N E L IC ● M M C O L A ● L A U R A MA F I N E ● D E G A N A O T V E P. ● L E S I U C O Y O G N I 36 A L DA G U I A I N R A CE VE D U FA A L FI A NI CA BR FE CE D 'A I S RR UZ OS ZI TA

S. S

723 ● M E FABRIS RICAMI ● R C LA PARIGINA ● E R BIALETTI ● I E

SA

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PA

RD

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● MACRÌ

IA

’OR EL

BUCCELLATI ●

MANDARINA DUCK ● POLLINI ● ROVOLETTO ●

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

OL

CA BE RL OT R O F R AT TO SS EL ● E T LA T I ●L I PE ● RL MA A● FU X& RL CO ● A EM M A ● PA ● AL X DI MA NDO ● RA RA SO ● MA GN ID R IN ’O R AR GR O● CA IN A ● D OSS MP LD P ER I ● T E V E N O IN T ● OS IS AT T E O ●S WA TCH ●T ● C RUSS A AL ZE RDI DO N IA

LL

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Global Blue Retailer

IE D

● PELLETTERIA

● GUCCI ● VIVICI ● OTTICA VENEZIANA LA GONDOLA ● ● SOLARIS LACOSTE ● ● CARGASACCHI PANDORA ●

ER

● BATA

LL

OR

● SWAROVSKI

RC

A LV AD

ACCESSORIZE ● L’OCCITANE ●

CA

NS

● MATTIUZZI ● CROMIA

● IL CORALLO ● ROMA 1947

ME

SA

MARELLA●

CA

LA PARIGINA ● N JB GUANTI ● Z U ASTOLFO ● L I A LIBER ● N R. TIOZZO ● LUISA SPAGNOLI ●

● SPAZIO A ● MORELLATO ● KIEHL'S

Featured In This Issue

Piazzetta dei Leoni

I Sense Your Essence

San Marco, 110

Venezia

www.officinabernardi.com

80 | I TA LY G U I D E

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● Murano TA EN AM ND FO

VETRERIA ARTISTICA LA FENICE ●

DE

SIGNORETTO LAMPADARI ●

LA

UL

M

IDEA MURANO ●

A

MAZZEGA GLASS FACTORY ● MARCHETTI MARIA ● CAMPAGNOL E SALVADORE ● PESCE PESCE ● FIORE FIORE ● COLLELLI & OTTERDAHL ●

IN

AN

RI

RA I FO ND AM EN

O AN

ANTICA VETRERIA ● GIOIELLI R.T. MURANO ● NEROPACO ● VETRI D'ARTE RAVANELLO ● VENINI ●

TA M

IP NC SA MO RA

● FERRO VETRO ● APA GIOIELLI ● F.LLI MORETTI ● MOSAICI DONÀ MURANO ● SEGUSO VIRO ● COSE COSÌ ● MIRIAM ● LAMBERTI RAFFAELLA ● VETRI G. BASTIANELLO ● MORI SNC

ARTIZ ● SOFFIO DI VETRO ● EFFE DUE MURANO ● PICCOLI PENSIERI ● DOMUS VETRI D’ARTE ●

FO ND AM EN TA DE IV ET

● L'ARTE MURANESE ● F & M BALLARIN ● M. CAVAGNIS OROVETRO ● ● NASON MORETTI MURANO IL VETRO DI FUGA ● ● ORIGINAL MURANO SCHIAVON MURANO ● ● BOTTEGA DEL VETRO CESARE TOFFOLO ● ● ARTIGIANATO VENEZIANO LUCEVETRO ● ● VETROMANIA BAROVIER & TOSO ● ● ART BIJOUX GIAMPAOLO NASON VETRI ARTISTICI ● ● ANDREA 2000 FRANCO SCHIAVON GALLERY ● ● CARLO MORETTI VETRERIA COLONNA ● ●C&G CESARE SENT ● ● LINEA MURANO ART SCHIAVON ● ● FORNACE GINO MAZZUCCATO CAM ● ● VETRERIA ARTISTICA GRITTI

VENINI Founded in 1921, Venini is one of Italy’s longest running producers of artistic and decorative glass.

This season it has partnered with famed architect and designer Peter Marino on a line of table-top vases. The limited-edition Black Belt collection features vases in four shapes – oval, triangular, square and figure of eight – in a range of sizes in natural, pink, chartreuse or amber glass with opaque black bands. Each is created using traditional Murano glass-making techniques, making it the perfect homeware buy on a trip to Venice.

Global Blue Retailer

Venini, Piazzetta dei Leoncini, San Marco 314, 30124 Venice, +39 041 522 4045, venini.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 76

Non-Global Blue Retailer

S H O P | 81

FLORENCE

● Via de’ Tornabuoni, Via degli Strozzi & Via Porta Rossa BOTTEGA QUATTRO ●

● CELLERINI

P.30 MONCLER ●

APPLE ●

VIA PELLICCERIA

● PAUL & SHARK

TWIN SET ● BORSALINO ●

● EREDI CHIARINI

● ALPHA STUDIO

● GIOEL

QUERCIOLI E ● LUCHERINI

VIA MONALDA

V I A D E ' TO R N A B U O N I

BO NP OI

●

STI

●

T● FON S I● FR A ● SI SA S

L AY

G IU

NT ●

P.82 A ● Z ZUR AQ UA LD IN I S H F IE N IC H HN A ● JO S U N TA A ● AS

P.83

VIA CALIMALA

BRANDY MELVILLE ● TRY ME ● IXOS ● MONTGOMERY ●

REA

REP

E

ION

AR

LP

DE

FALCONERI ●

VIA DE' SASSE TTI

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

AELEONORE ●

CI ● C ● GU C O S. ● A IR E E V O LT B A .S E T ● D IG & R ● Z A GGI S E CN A L I ● ● O ● BO STE O R IO C LO T ● L A KO PA O R IA M A Z E R ● O E ● ● P INO S A LC O NI FUM E ● KA P RO IA L D● TO R I ORL .

SAR ROSS G W IE S ● ● O .MR T O R IA T IN B ● SA H U N IVA B A N C E ● A ● D E B A L ID G E C O L IN R N E WU T T E R A LY ● ● RU E ID E G 9 IT S● ● P IN TI E CO 0 0 3 A IA N A S ● YO U R A N C IS H AV IQ O O ● ● TI E E S A N FR NTE ETR B IS O ● B LUT IA N R ● IL ● K A EYEWEA ● OP I● R IN E STO R EL LI C H IA A L I ● ● WP I BORR NNI E ID M IG ● G IA MER ● LU L L I URE CASH ● Z AT ● VA T E R N IC CAL ONNA ● M ISS E TA RO I● AD N IG ELL LL ASS ● IN N IS T R I C E .

E LA B I● T JJ LU O ● R M A N R IS S IM CO N T ● E OR ● U S U T C A S H M B AT E A TO R E I CK S IT ● DU PET RT NHEA ● BE

AND

O VA

A NU

VIGN

ELL A

VIA D

● PATRIZIA PEPE

LOUIS ● VUITTON

KANGRA ● ALISI ● CLAMORI DI FIRENZE ● IL PAPIRO ●

BURBERRY ● OMEGA ●

AMERICAN VINTAGE ● DOLCE & GABBANA ●

DR VRANJES FIRENZE ● BULGARI ● COS ●

CARTIER ● BOTTEGA VENETA ●

DODO ● TIFFANY & CO ●

V I A D E ' TO R N A B U O N I PRADA ●

LUISA SPAGNOLI ● BARDUCCI ● LA PERLA ● UGO POGGI ● SALVINI ● ERMANNO SCERVINO ●

FRATELLI COPPINI ● E OL LS

PRINCIPE DI FIRENZE ●

DE

MONTBLANC ● GIANFRANCO LOTTI ● PRADA ● SAVE THE QUEEN! ●

VIA ROMA

A

● TOD’S

OTTO D'AME ●

Featured In This Issue

Place Of Interest

Department Store

HOGAN ●

● MOMONI

Piazza della Repubblica

STROZZI PALAZZO VIA DEGLI STROZZI EMPORIO

O VA

VIA DE’ VECCHIETTI

VI

VALENTINO ●

V I A P O R TA ● ● ● ROSSA ● ● A L PA R I B ● A ● ● BA BE MP MO ER S MI G ● O ● N ● L ● V ● U AS LE RT AL W NA PES SS A Z T T OI E V AL OM PES NC A F O A RD I ON Z A IN AN MA O I RR O I IA ER NI O IT R À GA R VIA DE IN ET LLE I TER TI ME MUSEO

SOTF● DIOR ● DAMIANI ●

VIA

I

IN

RS

CO

NO

AR

NG

LU

GUCCI ● ANNE FONTAINE ●

● LOCMAN ITALY ● CASADEI PARENTI ●

● ARMANI ● MILORD PELLICCERIA ● ROMANELLI ● GIORGIO ARMANI ● FENDI ● INNIU ● LORO PIANA ● LES PETIT JOUEURS P.18 ● MUSEO DELLE CIPRIE ● CHOPARD ● CÉLINE ● PUCCI DOLCE & GABBANA ● JUNIOR

EL

● MAX MARA

POMELLATO ●

DA PA AS

A NU

IGN LA V

VIA D

OFFICINA DEI TORNABUONI ● GUALTIERO ● ROLEX / FANI GIOIELLI ●

A

LL DE VIA

● MICHELE NEGRI

P.32

VIA DE’ PECORI ● TOMMY HILFIGER

HERMÈS ● LORETTA CAPONI ● LES COPAINS ●

DEGAIA ●

● Via della Vigna Nuova

82 | I TA LY G U I D E

● Via Roma & Via Calimala ● Via dei Calzaiuoli Piazza del Duomo

ARMANDO POGGI ●

Piazza di San Giovanni

VIA DEI TOSINGHI ● MIU MIU

MASSIMO DUTTI ●

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ● DISNEY ●

JO MALONE ●

DIESEL ●

GOLF ● ZARA ● GEOX ● PIQUADRO ● TWIN SET ●

GUESS ●

UPDATED ● ● CLARKS

● ZARA

● CORNELIANI ● SANDRO ● LIU JO VIA DEI LAMBERTI ● LIU JO

VIA CALIMALA

MORESCHI ● CALIMALA 31 ● GUYA ● ROY ROGERS ●

VIA DEI CALZAIUOLI

Piazza della Repubblica

VIA DEI CALZ A IU O LI

VIA DEGLI SPEZIALI GOLDEN POINT ● CHANEL ● ACQUA DELL'ELBA ● SWAROVSKI ● REBECCA ● ATHLETIC WORD ● FALCONERI ● PULL LOVE ● TEZENIS ● V I A D E I TAV O L I N I

VIA DEGLI SPEZIALI ● MOLESKINE Rinascente

VIA CALIMALA

VIA PELLICCER IA

COACH ●

MYWALIT ●

● OLIVIERO FIRENZE

VIA DEI TOSINGHI MIGONE ●

PROFUMERIA ALINE ●

● MICHAEL KORS

● HARD ROCK CAFE

MAX & CO ●

VIA DEI LAMBERT I

PUSATERI ● RE NERO ● L’OCCITANE ● CARPISA ● VIA P O RTA ROSSA FARMACIA MOLTENI ● CORSANI ● ATE SETA ● FOSSIL ●

● PUMA

CHANEL ●

V I A PO RTA ROSSA

VIA DEI CALZAIUOLI

VIA ROMA

SISLEY ●

● GUCCI ● PINKO ● LIU JO UOMO ● MISS SIXTY NI RMA IO A POR ● E M ● ELISABETTA FRANCHI

VIA ROMA

PRADA ● LE SILLA ● LUISA VIA ROMA ● LONGCHAMP ●

INTIMISSIMI ● ● ENRICO VERITÀ ● TIM ● BATA VIA DELLE OCHE ● MIA BAG ● VICTORIA'S SECRET ● FIRENZE PRATESI ● STROILI ORO ● MANETTI ● GERONICO ● OROLOGERIA R MARRETTI ● KIKO ● INTIMISSIMI

● YAMAMAY VIA DEL CORSO ● CALZEDONIA ● WOLFORD ● PYLONES ● COIN ● STEFANEL

● LEATHER FACTORY

● LUISA SPAGNOLI ● COCCINELLE ● NARA CAMICIE ● SOLARIS ● QUERCIOLI ● GUIDORENI VI A DELL A C O N DOT TA ● FURLA

Piazza della Signoria

A favourite of the fashion elite, Hollywood stars and European royalty, Aquazzura creates some of the world’s most covetable luxury footwear. At the Florentine brand’s flagship store on Lungarno Corsini, visitors will find stunning frescoed ceilings offset by bold stripes and emerald green furnishings. These provide a suitably dramatic backdrop to the all-important shoes, with towering high heels, chic flats and stylish boots encased in glass cabinets through the palatial boutique.

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Aquazzura, Lungarno Corsini 42R, 50125 Florence, +39 055 291242, aquazzura.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 81

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Department Store

PHOTO: © FRANCISCO DE ALMEIDA DIAS

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Aeleonore, Via Monalda 3R-7R, 50123 Florence, +39 055 073 6717, aeleonore.com

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 81

Aeleonore has become the go-to name in Florence for classic and contemporary geometric leather bags. Inspired by designs from the 1960s and 70s, the brand’s collections are made by hand using decades-old techniques to ensure that every piece is finished to the highest standard. Alongside its collections of bags, Aeleonore also offers silk and cashmere scarves, making the boutique on Via Monalda the perfect spot to find a stylish Florentine accessory.

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Piazza della Repubblica

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JENNIFER TATTANELLI Jennifer Tattanelli’s eponymous brand, which grew out of her family’s long-established leather goods business, offers a contemporary approach to one of Florence’s artisanal traditions.

The products, spanning readyto-wear for men and women, handbags, shoes and accessories, Global Blue Retailer

are made in the brand’s atelier by craftsmen using carefully selected materials. When in Florence be sure to visit the atelier in Piazza de’ Pitti to pick up a covetable piece, before heading next door to Casini Firenze by Jennifer Tattanelli for more beautifully made items. grc Jennifer Tattanelli, Piazza de’ Pitti 31R, 50125 Florence, jennifertattanelli.it

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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look wfor the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

Refund Office Details: Milan Malpensa Airport Terminal 1, Departures, Check-In Area 12 (second floor) Terminal 1, Area A, Schengen, after Security Control (first floor) Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Milan Linate Airport Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Downtown Milan Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer service), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan Rome Fiumicino Airport Terminal 3, Departures, Airside, Schengen Area Terminal 3, Departures, Check-In Area, Desk 330 92

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Downtown Rome Rinascente( first floor next to customer service), Via del Tritone 61, 00187 Rome Forexchange Maccorp, Via del Caravita 6, 00186 Rome Forexchange Maccorp Pantheon, Piazza della Rotonda 68B, 00187 Rome Forexchange Maccorp Trevi, Via del Lavatore 88A, 00187 Rome Florence Peretola Airport Departures Downtown Florence Forexchange Maccorp, Via Por Santa Maria 3R, 50122 Florence Forexchange Maccorp, Via dei Calzaiuoli 3R, 50122 Florence Interchange, Via Por Santa Maria 35R, 50122 Florence 100

1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form.

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Venice Marco Polo (Tessera) Airport Departures, Travelex Downtown Venice Forexchange Maccorp, Campo San Bartolomeo, San Marco 5313, 30124 Venice Ital Travel, Calle dell’Ascensione, San Marco 72B, 30124 Venice Yex Change, Piazza San Marco, San Marco 146, 30124 Venice Naples Capodichino Airport Alisud , Terminal 1, Check- In Travelex, Terminal 1, Boarding Area Downtown Ischia Point Ru , Via Antonio de Luca 101, 80077 Ischia Downtown Como Viaggi Ronchi, Lungo Lario Trieste 10, 22100 Como globalblue.com

Spend a minimum of €154.95 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price.

Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

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TRANSLATIONS 中文翻译 42: ONE STEP AHEAD 领 先 一步 随着运动装在时尚界的 兴起，意大利顶尖手工鞋履 制造商也纷纷开始探索运动 鞋文化。Patrick Clark报道 20世 纪下半 叶，意 大 利手工 鞋 履 行 业 繁 荣 发 展。凭借 本土 家 族 企 业 推动 当地 生 产的独 特 模 式，意 大 利人 打 造 出了属于自己的风 格，并成 功 将 其 输出至世界 各地。从那时起，马尔凯 （ Marche）地 区 就 一直 是卓越 品质 的代 名词，这 里 的 鞋 匠和 工 厂构成了 一 张网络，专注 生 产高端 鞋 履；从令 人 梦寐以求的皮鞋 到专门定制的作 品，一应俱 全。 作为高街 常见穿 搭的 运 动 鞋曾经 上图: Alberto Guardiani 2018年春夏Onesoul运动鞋

只是 运 动服 装品牌 的后备力量，如 今 则成 为了任 何时尚系列都 不 可或 缺 的 重要元 素。奢 侈品牌涉足 运 动服 饰 的 势 头越 来越明 显了，这两大 设 计 领 域 之间的严格区分 也 正在 逐 渐消失。这 样 的趋 势在 意 大 利鞋 履 行业中创造了 一 个 新 的 市 场，也让 该国的制 鞋 传 统 发 生了转 变。 进 入鞋 履制作新 篇章，各 家 意 大 利品牌为风 靡 街头的 运 动 鞋 换 上了奢 华皮革。来自科里多尼 亚 （ Corridonia）的品牌 Santoni初 创 时原 本是 一家专注于定制 鞋 履 的工 作 坊，现 在 也 开始 运用其 独 一 无 二 的才华 来 创作运 动 鞋。与乐福 鞋、双 扣 鞋以 及布洛克 鞋 一样，运 动 鞋 如 今已 在 品牌 各系列中牢 牢占 据 着 一

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席之 地。代 表 着 奢 华男装 的杰尼 亚 （ Ermenegildo Zegna）同样 推 出了 一 款 正 式休闲风 的 运 动 鞋，融 合了奢 华 气 质与休闲风 格 的 Tiziano运 动 鞋 现已成 为 一大热门款 式。 人们 将旧工 艺与新技 术 结 合 到一 起，全 新 的 鞋 履制作 方 法应 运而生， 这 场 传 统与创新 的 微 妙 平 衡正慢 慢 成 为意 大 利时装界 的决定 性因素。对 于早 在 1947年 就已创立同名品牌 的 Alberto Guardiani而 言，向运 动服 饰 的 转 变 推动了产品线 的 扩张：“早 在 21世 纪 初，我 就已 经 体会 到了运 动 鞋 的 重要 性，当时 我们 推 出了品牌 的 第一双中性 运 动 鞋 Somerset：为了迎 合那 个 时代 的品味，鞋 的 侧身 还 饰 有 一 个 大 大的字母 G。”这位设 计师 如 是说 道，“那 双 鞋收 获了巨大的成 功，

眼光独到的顾客 渴望在 运动领域 看到奢华元素 使公司在 非常短 的时间内得到了指 数 级 的发 展。” Guardiani认 为 这 样 的 转 变 “两 面分 别 连 接 着 传 统与创新 这一对 矛盾 的双 方，以 至于 我 坚 信： 没有专业 的工 艺 技 术，任 何创新 都 是 不 可能的。” 奢 华正 装 鞋 履 的制作 涉及 到大 量 皮革 处 理 方面的专业 技 术，有鉴于 此，在同样 的工 厂中生 产 运 动 鞋也 绝 非 易事。首先，运 动 鞋 所用的 材 料 完 全不同，这 意 味 着要 对马尔凯 地 区 的皮革制作 传 统 进 行全面 革 新 — — Guardiani的 鞋 履 设 计正 是在 那里 变 成 实 物。“使 用织物而非皮革需 要 用到 更 加先 进 的 检 查 程 序。”他 解 释 道，“处 理一 件 织物 的时候，我们必 须 要 预测 它未 来的变化，比如最初 装配 到 鞋 帮上 时是 什么样，以 及 后来被 人

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穿 在 脚上 时是 什么样。所以，这 就 意 味 着更多的工作，无 论 是 研究 层面 的还 是 生 产层面的。”但 是，和 传 统 制 鞋手艺一样，材 料 处 理 上 的 文 章 同样 精妙 细 微。从 最 先 进 的特 殊 处 理 技 术到 全 新 的 鞋 带 款 式，再到最 重要 的 橡 胶 鞋 底，各种 现代 元 素 的 运用为鞋 履带来更多精 彩。 最 重要 的 是，眼 光 独 到的顾客 渴 望在 运 动 鞋 领 域 看 到 奢 华元 素 的存 在；正 是为了回应 这 样 的需 求，意 大 利品牌才 纷 纷 诉 诸 行 动。 成 立于 1953年 的家 族 企 业 Fratelli Rossetti现由 Diego、Dario和 Luca 三兄弟 联 合 经 营，该品牌成 功的关 键 就 在于时新 款 式 与传 统制 鞋 工 艺 的 巧妙 结 合。品牌 的工 厂位于 米 兰 附近 的帕 拉 比 亚 戈（ Parabiago）， 精湛 的手工 技 艺仍然是其 生 产方 式 的 重要 基 础。“ 对 于 我们 而 言传 统 是 至 关 重要 的，决不能为了 现代化 生 产而 在 产品质 量 上妥协。”他们 解 释 道，“虽然 我们 的工 厂拥有 非常先 进 的 设备 和 组 织 风 格，但我们 的 鞋 子 仍然是 手工制作 的。技 艺 精湛 的工 匠们亲手为 它们 着 色，然 后添 上 流 苏 或 缘 饰 等独 特 的 嵌 入 元 素，让它 们 变得更为 华 美。” 基于 传 统手工 技 艺与时新 款 式 在 生 产 和 设 计层面的联 姻，Fratelli Rossetti于 2016年启动了 New Artisan Project（ 新手工计 划）项 目。该 项目旨在 支 持有 前途 的专业 创意 天 才，于发 扬 手工创作 传 统 的同 时，也为历史 元 素 赋 予 现代色 彩。在 该 项目创造 的系列作品中，可以 看 到 皮革 在 运 动服 饰上 的多种 运用，还 有专为 篮 球、橄 榄 球 和足 球 运 动 设 计 的款 式。 正 是 通 过 这 种 极其 与众不同的 方 式，意 大 利制 鞋 行业 正在 通往 未 来的道 路上一 往 直 前：运 动 鞋 爱 好 者们 将迎 来一 种有 着 独 特品质 的卓 越 鞋 履 新风 格。

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50: HISTORY IN THE MAKING 开创历史 Officina ProfumoFarmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella是一家来 自佛罗伦萨的药 妆 零售 商。Sally McIlhone与总 裁 Eugenio Alphandery先生 面对面畅 谈 很 少有品牌 的历史可以 追 溯 到 13世 纪，Officina Profumo-

Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella的独 特之处可见一 斑。这 家 Farmaceutica以香 氛、美 妆产品、草 本保 健品和 药品闻名于 世，理 所 当然 是 佛罗伦萨之 旅不 容 错 过的 一 站。 “ 我们 的 故事起源于 1221年，道 明会 修 士 们（ Dominicans）决定 在 上图: Acqua di Colonia最新香氛Lana

佛罗伦萨 兴建修 道 院，那里 就 是 如 今 Officina Profumo- Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella的所在 地。” Eugenio Alphandery先 生介 绍道，他 在 这 家集 健 康、美容 和 保 健 于 一身的 古老品牌 担任 总 裁。“修 道 士 们 开始 采集 修 道 院 附近 果园中 培 养的 植物，研究 和 试 验 它们 的治 疗 功 效。” 时至今日，Farmaceutica 依旧沿袭 这一 傲 人传 统，照 料着 Santa Maria Novella修 道 院中的 花园，许 多产品的原 材 料都 生长于 此。其中最为重要 的 一 种原 料 是 香脂 菊（ balsamite），它是 Alphandery 先 生口中的 “一 款 具 有 香 气 的 植物， 以促 进 健 康 和 镇定安 神而 著 称 ”， 更是 Farmaceutica两 款镇 店之宝 的主要成 分：Pasticche消 化含片 和 Acqua di Santa Maria Novella（ 一 款镇定 液体 配 方，曾被 誉为 Acqua Antisterica— — 安 神之 水），二 者如 今在 店内依然 有售。 正如 Alphandery先 生 所 说 的，“ Officina Profumo-

Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella的每 一 款 产品都 蕴含 着 一 个 独 特 的 故事，比方说 Acqua della Regina是1533年修 道 士为 凯 瑟 琳• 德 • 梅第奇所 创作，庆祝 她 与法国国 王 亨 利二世喜 结 连 理。” 据 说 梅第奇 是“最早支 持 道明会品牌 的人 士之 一 ”，因此 在 她 加冕法国王 后之 际，“ 修 道 士 创作了一 款 香 氛向王 后 致 敬，这 就 是 后来大名鼎 鼎的 Acqua della Regina（王 后之 水）。”Acqua della Regina如 今 仍可以买 到，它是 Farmaceutica第一 款含 酒 精香 氛，甚 至早于 最 畅 销 的 Acqua di Colonia； 后 者则 提 供 多种 香 型，包括鸡 蛋 花、 鸢尾 花 和马 鞭 草等 等。 继 承 品牌 传 统 的同 时，Alphandery先 生 还 要为 Farmaceutica的未 来出谋 划 策。除 了销 售经典产品，公司还 “ 在实 验 室

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研发创新 型 产品”。Alphandery先 生 表 示：“ 我们 在 1999年 收购了 Via Reginaldo Giuliani大 街上 的 一处 房 产，这 栋 建 筑 是1930年 的某 农民协 会所在 地，占地面 积 4000平方米。 在 这 里，传 统 得到延 续 和更 新，在 现 代 技 术 和高级机 器 的帮助下，我们 使 用高品质 的原 材 料，遵 循 修 道 士的工 艺流 程。”正 是 传 统 和 现代 的结 合， 让 当代 顾客 对 Farmaceutica备 受 青 睐。“ ‘传 统 和 创新’一直 是 Officina di Santa Maria Novella的品牌 格言， 我 在 扩 充 产品 种 类、海 外建 店 拓展 时，都遵 循 着 这个准则。” 如 今，30 多 家门店 遍 及世界 各地，无不印 证 着 Alphandery先 生 策 略 的有 效 性。 Via della Scala分店是 Farmaceutica历史 和 现代 交融 的最 佳 典 范。在 这 里，客人 既 可以购买 到 最 新 推出的 创新型 产品，也可以在 展 览馆中了解品牌 的 悠久 历史。“ Via della Scala分店向公 众 开放，药用 植物园和生 产场所 通 过 预 约 也可以 参观。展览 区域 展 出古老的制 药 工 具（如 温 度 计、研 钵、肥 皂 模 具）、 器皿（如 瓶子、蒸馏器）以 及 托 斯 卡 纳 保存最完 整 且 最 独 特 的陶 瓷 药 罐 — — 16世 纪 末 至 17世 纪前 25年 在 Montelupo制作而成 。”此 外，展览馆 中还收 藏了用于产品制作 的 古董机 器 和 工具。”虽然 这 些 年 代 久 远 的展 品 吸引着八 方来 客，Alphandery先 生 更倾向于把 Farmaceutica定 义为 一 家紧跟 潮 流 的现代公司，而 不是“老 古董 ”。“即使门店 的 一小部 分用于展 示古董，我 从 来不认 为 Officina只是 一家博 物 馆；我们 植 根于历史，以创 新为导向，不 断 推 陈出新，避 免沦为 一具 徒有历史 的空壳。” 独 特 的产品 选 择、迷 人 的历 史传 统、通 过高 科 技 生 产 设备 投 资 未 来，Officina Profumo-

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 42: ONE STEP AHEAD ШАГ ВПЕРЕД

Спортивный стиль переживает расцвет, и итальянские производители обуви начинают присматриваться к кроссовкам, – рассказывает Патрик Кларк Расцвет индустрии ремесленной обуви в Италии пришелся на вторую половину 20 века. Тогда же появилась и итальянская модель семейного локального предприятия, продвигающего местное производство. В стране появился собственный стиль обуви, который успешно экспортируется в остальной мир. Например, регион Марке

прославился мастерами и фабриками, которые способны создавать обувь высочайшего качества, будь то серийные кожаные модели или вещи на заказ. Кроссовки, без которых невозможно представить уличный стиль, некоторое время были прерогативой спортивных брендов, а теперь они в центре любой модной коллекции. Интерес роскошных брендов к спортивному стилю становится все более и более насущным, и некогда жесткая граница постепенно размывается. Это не только открывает новое направление в обувной индустрии, но

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и закладывает грядущие перемены в итальянской традиции. Итальянские модные дома охотно демонстрируют роскошный подход к уличному стилю в обуви. Компания Santoni из Корридонии, которая начинала как небольшая мастерская по пошиву обуви на заказ, теперь применяет профессиональные наработки к производству спортивных вещей. Кроссовки прочно заняли место в ассортименте рядом с лоферами, брогами и ботинками с двумя пряжками. Бренд качественной мужской одежды Ermenegildo Zegna также представил удобную обувь для смарт-кэжуал. Ключевой моделью стали кроссовки Tiziano, в которых органично сочетаются роскошь в отделке и все характерные признаки уличного стиля. Гармоничное соединение традиции и новации постепенно выходит на первый план в итальянской моде. В обувной сфере это означает усиление старых техник новыми методами. Для компании Alberto Guardiani, основанной в 1947 году, обращение к спорту стало поводом ускорить расширение основной коллекции. «Я осознавал необходимость таких перемен еще в начале 2000-х, когда мы выпускали первые кроссовки унисекс – модель Somerset. Они были с большой клиновидной буквой G на одной из сторон, по моде globalblue.ru

того времени, – рассказывает дизайнер и руководитель марки Альберт Гвардиани. – Успех был ошеломительным, и компания выросла в геометрической прогрессии за очень небольшой срок». Гвардиани рассматривает этот процесс как «двойную связь с традициями и новацией»: «Мое глубокое убеждение состоит в том, что без знания основ невозможны передовые решения». Производство роскошной обуви требует от мастеров разнообразных навыков обработки кожи. Наладить выпуск качественных кроссовок на тех же фабриках – непростая задача. Мастерские Гвардиани находятся в регионе Марке, и компания тщательно изучает многовековой опыт этой местности, поскольку для спортивной обуви используются особые материалы: «Текстиль, в отличие от кожи, необходимо более основательно испытывать, – объясняет дизайнер. – Мы должны точно знать, как ткань себя поведет сначала при креплении к подошве, а затем и при ношении. Таким образом, это более сложный процесс как на подготовительном этапе, так и в производстве». И работа с материалами, и традиционное ремесло сапожника – все приобретает здесь более изысканный акцент: от специальной обработки до новых кружевных орнаментов и, что особенно важно, кожаной подошвы.

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Столь активные действия стали ответом Италии на интерес взыскательных клиентов к обновлению спортивной обуви. Семейное предприятие Fratelli Rossetti было основано в 1953 году в

городе Парабиаго неподалеку от Милана. Сейчас им управляют братья Диего, Дарио и Лука Розетти, которые сделали ставку на сочетание новых моделей с традициями обувного дела. Поэтому производство основано на ручном ремесле: «Наследие играет огромную роль для нас, и модернизация не должна быть поводом для компромиссов. Да, на фабрике мы применяем новейшее оборудование и современную организацию труда, но сделанная нами обувь остается ремесленной. Мастера тонируют ее вручную, а затем украшают декоративными элементами – кистями и бахромой». Чтобы укрепить союз между старыми и новыми методами производства, бренд Fratelli Rossetti инициировал проект New Artisan Project в 2016 году. Его цель – поддержать молодых профессионалов обувного дела, познакомить их с историей ремесла и активизировать современный подход. В результате проекта появляются кожаные вариации на спортивную тему, и частью коллекции бренда уже стали модели, заимствованные из баскетбола, регби и футбола. С этих необычных шагов начинается большой путь обувной индустрии Италии в будущее. Поклонники спортивного стиля непременно оценят по достоинству новый облик кроссовок, отмеченных знаком итальянского качества.

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50: HISTORY IN THE MAKING ИСТОРИЯ РУЧНОЙ РАБОТЫ Салли Макилхоун поговорила с Эудженио Альфандери – директором флорентийской культурной институции Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella Немногие бренды смогут проследить свою историю до 13 века. Но и назвать Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella обычным брендом нельзя. Эта компания прославилась на весь мир своими ароматами, косметическими продуктами, травяными сборами и целебными средствами, и познакомиться с ней во время поездки во Флоренцию нужно обязательно. «Наша история началась в 1221 году, когда монахидоминиканцы решили построить монастырь во Флоренции, где Officina ProfumoFarmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella находится по сей день. Они начали изучать целебные свойства трав, выращивать их в садах при монастыре и экспериментировать», – рассказывает об истоках этого центра здоровья, красоты и благополучия его директор Эудженио Альфандери.

Farmaceutica ценит свое наследие и продолжает возделывать сад Santa Maria globalblue.ru

Novella, откуда и берет ингредиенты для снадобий. В числе важнейших растений сада – бальзамическая пижма, которую Альфандери называет «ароматной травой с лечебными и успокаивающими свойствами». Пижма входит в два старинных рецепта Farmaceutica: Pasticche (пастилки для улучшения пищеварения) и Acqua di Santa Maria Novella (успокаивающий раствор, который некогда

„Именно здесь традиция увековечивается и возрождается“ назывался Acqua Antisterica – «антиистерическая вода»), – и эти продукты по-прежнему можно купить. «У каждого средства в ассортименте Officina ProfumoFarmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella есть своя история. Это началось с композиции Acqua della Regina, которую монахиаптекари создали для Екатерины Медичи в 1533 году по случаю ее свадьбы с королем Франции Генрихом II», – поясняет Альфандери. Считается, что Медичи «одной из первых оказала королевское доверие компании». Когда она стала

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королевой Франции, «монахи создали эссенцию, которая осталась в веках под названием Acqua della Regina («Королевская вода») в ее честь». Под этим же названием она продается до сих пор. Более того, Acqua della Regina стала первым в истории Farmaceutica продуктом со спиртом и предвосхитила появление Acqua di Colonia. Одеколоны также выпускаются до сих пор, и ароматов очень много, от Frangipane (франжипан) до Iris (ирис) и Verbena (вербена). По словам Альфандери, компания вкладывается не

только в славное прошлое, но и в будущее. На Farmaceutica «работают исследовательские лаборатории, в которых разрабатываются передовые продукты». «В 1999 году компания приобрела здание на Via Reginaldo Giuliani площадью 4000 квадратных метров: оно было построено в 1930 году для ассоциации фермеров. Именно здесь традиция увековечивается и возрождается. Сырье высокого качества обрабатывается вручную по рецептам, выведенным монахамидоминиканцами при поддержке современных технологий и

Сверху: директор Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, Эудженио Альфандери

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новейшего оборудования», – поясняет директор. Именно это сочетание традиций и современности позволяет Farmaceutica оставаться созвучной современности: «Традиция и новация» – таким был и остается девиз Officina di Santa Maria Novella. Этот принцип я пытаюсь применять как к расширению ассортимента, так и к открытию магазинов». Сейчас у компании более 30 магазинов по всему миру – едва ли остаются вопросы к эффективности стратегии Альфандери. Магазин на Via della Scala – хороший пример того, как Farmaceutica уравновешивает историю и современность. Здесь посетитель может приобрести что-нибудь из новейших продуктов марки, а затем Сверху: секция музея в бутике Via della Scala

посетить прекрасные музейные залы, чтобы познакомиться с историей компании: «Магазин на Via della Scala открыт для гостей, а по предварительной договоренности можно побывать в саду целебных трав и на производстве. В витринах музейных залов представлены старинные фармацевтические инструменты (термометры, ступки, формы для мыла), стеклянные сосуды (бутылки и дистилляторы) и одна из самых полных и интересных в Тоскане коллекций аптечной керамики, созданной в Монтелупо в последние десятилетия 16 века и первой четверти 17 века. Еще одна экспозиция посвящена старинному оборудованию и инструментам». Исторические витрины сами по себе очень интересны

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для путешественников, однако Альфандери предпочитает рассматривать Farmaceutica как современную компанию: «Пусть отдельные залы и посвящены истории, но я никогда не считал Officina музеем. Это ориентированный на новации бренд, который корнями уходит в века, продолжает обновлять ассортимент и не хочет превращаться в выставку былых достижений». Неповторимая подборка

целительных и косметических средств, интересная история и инвестиции в развитие бренда в через технологии – все это укрепляет статус Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella как масштабной современной институции, а не просто музейной ценности. Более того, для многих путешественников именно эта институция – повод возвращаться во Флоренцию снова и снова.

86: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

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2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить Tax Free формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.95 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

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日本 語 翻 訳 42: ONE STEP AHEAD 一歩先行くスニーカー ファッション界におけるスポ ーツウェアの地位が上がり、 イタリア有 数のアル チザン 系靴メーカーがスニーカー文 化に進出し始めた。パトリッ ク・クラークがレポートする。 イタリアのアルチザン系フットウェア 産 業は、20世 紀 後半に成長と繁 栄 を遂げた。地域のファミリービジネス が、地元での生産を振興するというイ タリア特有のモデルに則って独自のス タイルを作り上げ、世界中に輸出した のだ。それ以来、垂涎のレザー製品 から誂え品まで高級フットウェアを作 る職 人や工房のネットワークが自慢 のマルケ州は、卓越した品質の代名 詞になった。 大衆向けのショップに欠かせず、 かつてはスポーツウェアブランドの独 壇場だったスニーカーだが、今やどの

ファッションコレクションにも登場す る定番アイテムになってきている。高 級ブランドがスポーツウェアを手掛け ることが多くなり、以前ははっきりし ていた高級品とスポーツウェアの境目 が消えつつあるのだ。それによってイ タリアンフットウェアの新マーケット が出現し、この国の靴作りの伝統が 変わりつつある。 こうして訪れた靴作りの新時代。 イタリアのメーカーは、ストリートウェ アの定番であるスニーカーを高級レ ザーで提供している。コリドニアに拠 点を置くサントーニは元々オーダーメ ードのフットウェアを専門とする地元 の工房だったが、独自のノウハウを応 用したスニーカー作りに乗り出した。 同 社 のコレクションには 、ローファ ー、ダブルバックル、ブローグに加え、 今やスニーカーが欠かせないアイテム になっている。エルメネジルド・ゼニ アといえば 高級 紳士服のテーラリン

上：アルベルト・ガルディアーニ サマーセットスニーカー、2018年春夏コレクション

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グでお馴染みだが、このブランドでも スポーティなフットウェアのスマートカ ジュアル版を導入。 「ティツィアーノ」 スニーカーはストリートウェアの定型 と贅沢な仕上げを組み合わせた使い 勝手満点のスタイルだ。 こうした伝統と革新の微 妙なバラン スが徐々にイタリアのファッションシ ーンの特 徴になりつつある。新旧の 技法を組み合わせる新たな靴作りの プロセスが生まれているのだ。アルベ ルト・ガルディアーニが1947年に創設 した自名のブランドでは、スポーツウ ェアに目を向けるという転換によって 商品ラインが急速に拡大した。 「スニ ーカーの重要性は2000年代初頭から わかっていました。時代の好みに合わ せて先が 細く側面に大きなGの文字 が入った当社初のユニセックススニー カー『サマーセット』を発売したのは その頃です。これが大成功して当社は ごく短期間に驚異的な成長を遂げま した」というデザイナーのガルディア ーニ。ガルディアーニは、この移行に は「伝統と革新という二要素が二重 に関連していた」と見ている。 「ノウハ ウが無ければ革新は不可能だと確信 していました。」 高級フォーマルフットウェアの製 造では、革の処理に様々な特殊技能 が関わっている。その同じ工場でスニ ーカーを作るのは生易しいことでは ない。ガルディアーニのフットウェア のデザインが実際に形になるのはマ ルケ州だが、スニーカーは使用する 素材からして違う。まずはマルケの革 の伝統を根本から見直す必要があっ た。「革でなくテキスタイルを使うた め、さらに高度なチェックプロセスが 必要でした。テキスタイルを用いる場 合はその挙動を予測しなければなり ません。まずはアッパーソールに組み 立てた時、そして実際に履かれた時 にどうなるかを予測するのです。つま globalblue.com

り、リサーチにしろ製造工程にしろ仕 事が増えるわけです。」しかしその甲 斐あって、素材使いは靴職人の伝統 工芸と同様に洗 練されており、最 新 の特殊処理から新スタイルの靴ヒモ、 そして最も重要なゴム底など、モダン さを感じさせるディテールが加えられ ている。 イタリアの靴 業界がスニーカーの分 野に乗り出したのはむろん、高級品が 欲しいという眼識ある顧客の欲求に 応えてのことだ。1953年創立のファミ リービジネスで現在はディエゴ、ダリ オ、ルカの３兄弟が経営するフラテッ リ・ロセッティでは、新モデルと伝統 的な靴作りの組み合わせが鍵。製造 手法は今でも、ミラノ近郊のパラビア ゴにある同ブランドの工場で培われた 職人技を基本としている。 「私たちに とって伝統は非常に大事で、近代化し ても製品の品質を妥協することはで きません。工場には最新の設備と組 織スタイルを導入していますが、当社 の靴はやはり職人が作った靴なんで す。熟練工が手で彩色し、タッセルや フリンジといった当社独特の飾りをつ けて豊かな表情を作ります。」 こうした伝統手工芸の技術と製造 やデザインの新モデルを結びつけよう と、フラテッリ・ロセッティは2016年 にニュー・アルチザン・プロジェクトを 開始した。手工芸品の歴史を大 切に しつつ現代的な要素を取り入れる有 望新人デザイナーをサポートするもの で、その成果として生まれたのが革製 のスポーツフットウェア各種。コレク ションにはバスケットボールやラグビ ー、フットボールのモデルがある。 イタリアの靴業界は、こうしたいか にもイタリアらしい独特のやり方で未 来を切り開いている。イタリアならで はの品質が保証された新スタイルのフ ットウェアが、スニーカー愛好者の目 に留まることだろう。

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50: HISTORY IN THE MAKING 歴史は日々作られる オフィチーナ・プロフーモ・フ ァルマチュティカ・ディ・サン タ・マリア・ノヴェッラはフィ レンツェの名所だ。サリー・ マキルホーンがディレクター のユージニオ・アルファンデ リにインタビューした。 13世紀まで遡る歴史を持つブランド は滅多にない。もちろん、オフィチー ナ・プロフーモ・ファルマチュティカ・ ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラはあ りきたりのブランドとはわけが違う。 フレグランスやビューティ製品、ハー ブサプリメント、医薬品などで世界的 に有名なこのファルマチュティカ（薬 局）は、当然ながらフィレンツェ旅行 では必見の場所になっている。

「歴史は遠く1221年まで 遡りま す。ドミニコ会が、フィレンツェの現在 オフィチーナ・プロフーモ・ファルマチ ュティカ・ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェ ッラがある場所に修道院の建設を決 めたのが始まりです」と、いにしえの 昔から健康と美、ウェルネスの中心だ ったこの薬局のディレクター、ユージ ニオ・アルファンデリは説明する。「 修道士たちが修道院付近の果樹園で 育てた薬用ハーブの効能について研 究し、実 験し始めたのです。」こうし た歴史を重んじるこの薬局は今もサ ンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラ・ガーデンを 持ち、製品に使う原材料の多くを栽 培している。そこで育てられる主要原 材料の一つがバルサミータ（サンタマ リア草）。アルファンデリいわく「体に よく鎮静効果がある香草」で、これを 主原料とするファルマチュティカの二

上：フィレンツェにあるオフィチーナ・プロフーモ・ファルマチュティカ・ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッ ラの店舗、過去と現在の姿

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大人気商品パスティッケ・ディ・サン タ・マリア・ノヴェッラ（タブレット）と アックア・ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェ ッラ（元々は「抗ヒステリー水（アック ア・アンティステリカ）」と呼ばれてい た鎮静効果のあるハーブウォーター） は現在でも販売されている。 アルファンデリによれば、 「オフィチー ナ・プロフーモ・ファルマチュティカ・ ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラの製 品はそれぞれにストーリーがありま す。例えばアックア・デッラ・レジー ナは、1533年にカテリーナ・デ・メデ ィチがフランスのアンリII世に嫁いだ 際に修道士たちが作ったものです。」 カテリーナは早くからドミニコ会ブラ ンドの支 持 者だったといわれ 、彼女 がフランス王妃となった時に修 道士 たちが 敬 意を表してエッセンスを作 り、それが「アックア・デッラ・レジー ナ（王妃の水）」として知られるよう になったのだという。現在も買えるこ のアックア・デッラ・レジーナは、この 薬局初のアルコール入りフレグランス で、フランジパーネからアイリス、バー ベナまで様々な香りのものが揃うベス トセラー商品「アックア・ディ・コロニ ア（オーデコロン）」より古い。 アルファンデリは自社ブランドの歴 史を尊重しながらも、常に未 来に目

を向けるようにしている。同社は歴史 ある製品を売っている他、 「研 究 所 を活用して革新的な製品も作ってい る」という。 「1999年にレジナルド・ ジュリアーニ通りの物件を取得しまし た。1930年に農協会 館として建設さ れた延べ床面積4000平米の建物で す。ここで高品質の原材料を使い、ド ミニコ会修道士が伝えた手作業の工 程を追いながら近代的なテクノロジ ーと第一級の機 械を取り入れ 、伝統 の維持・刷新を図っているのです。」 こうした新旧の融合が、ファルマチュ ティカが現代の買い物客にも喜ばれ る理由だ。 「伝統と革新。それがこれ までも、そしてこれからもオッフィチ ーナ・ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラ のモットーであり、商品レンジを拡大 する際も外国に店舗をオープンする 際もこの原則を適用するよう心掛け ています。」世界中で展開する店舗は

上（左上から右回りに）：フィレンツェにあるオフィチーナ・プロフーモ・ファルマチュティカ・ディ・サンタ・マリ ア・ノヴェッラでの丹精込めた製品づくり、研究所の内部、パスティッケ・ディ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラ（タ ブレット）

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30店舗以上というから、アルファンデ リの戦略が功を奏しているのは間違 いない。 スカラ通りの店は、ファルマチュテ ィカがこの歴史と近代性のバランスを いかにとっているかを示す好 例だ。 来店者は革新を凝らした最新の製品 を買えるだけでなく、同ブティック内 のミュージアムセクションを見学して ブランドの豊かな歴史を学ぶことが できる。 「スカラ通りの店は一般にオ ープンしており、予約をとってご来店 いただけますし、薬草の植わったガ ーデンや製造施設もご覧いただけま す。店内のミュージアムセクションで は、昔の薬 局で 使っていた器具類（ 温度計、乳鉢、石鹸の型）やガラス類 （瓶、蒸留器）を展示している他、16 世紀末から17世紀の第１四半世紀に かけてモンテルーポで作られたトスカ ーナ陶器製薬瓶の広範なコレクショ ンもとても興味深いですよ。また、製 造に使われた古い機械や道具もご覧 になれます。」こうした歴史の展示は もちろん魅力的だが、アルファンデリ はファルマチュティカを過去の遺物で はなく現代的な企業として見てもらう ことに心を砕く。 「店の一角をこうし た展示に使ってはいますが、私はオッ フィチーナをミュージアムとして見たこ とはありません。歴史に根差しつつ中 身を常にアップデートし、過去のショ ーケースと化さないように気を付けな がら革新を志向する企業だと思って います。」 独特の品揃えと魅力的な伝統が あり、ブランドの将来に向けてハイテ ク製造施設に投資するオフィチーナ・ プロフーモ・ファルマチュティカ・デ ィ・サンタ・マリア・ノヴェッラは、ミュ ージアムで触れる過去の存在に終始 せず、来店者がフィレンツェへ何度も 足を運びたいと思う場所になってい る。 globalblue.com

86: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 海外でのお買い物が免税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピン グ制度をご利用いただきますと、世界 各地の有名ショッピング街にある30 万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物が お得になります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグロ ーバル・ブルーの免 税ショッピング を、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続 きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟 店を探します。星が見当たらなけれ ば、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」と お尋ねください。あとは、次のステッ プを踏むだけです。 1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバ ル・ブルーの免 税 書 類（タックスフ リー・フォーム）を受け取ってくださ い。 2. 還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で 免税書類にスタンプを押してもらって から、グローバル・ブルーの還付事務 所で払い戻しを受けます。 お問い合わせ： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.95以上のお買い物をすれば、購 入価格の最高15.5％の払い戻しが受 けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、 付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手 数料を差し引いた金額となりますの で、その旨ご了承ください。一部の空 港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望 の場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免 税書類ごとに課されます。

SOUVENIR

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The label, founded by Elio Fiorucci in 1967, soon became synonymous with bold colours, Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 86

leopard print and skinny jeans, and was a key player in the street-style scene of the 70s and 80s. Fiorucci was bought in 2015

by Janie and Stephen Schaffer.

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