LONDON | ЛОНДОН | 伦敦 |
LONDON
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Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Page 48 PROFESSIONALS AT THEIR PEAK: meet London’s elite artisanal craftswomen
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Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this vibrant, cosmopolitan centre of creativity. London has much to ofer, as our guide on page 82 reveals. Readers who appreciate the highest artisanal standards will enjoy our feature on London’s top craftswomen (page 48). In this issue we also profle the city’s most prestigious department stores (page 56) and ofer an exclusive interview with quintessentially British designer Paul Smith (page 64). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14% when shopping in the UK. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in London. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
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CONTRIBUTORS
Hannah Lewis SHOP’s features editor Hannah Lewis read English literature and language at the University of Oxford before studying for an MA at the London College of Fashion. She has previously produced her own magazine in London. globalblue.com
PHOTO: DIONNE HÉLÈNE
PHOTO: KATIE WILSON ELL
ILLUSTRATION: PIETARI POSTI
Pietari Posti Pietari Posti’s imaginative style made him the perfect choice of illustrator for this season’s cover of SHOP London Luxury. His artwork was inspired by our feature on female artisans who are at the top of their professions (page 48). It shows the famous plinths in Trafalgar Square transformed into Olympicstyle podiums showcasing tailoring, watchmaking and shoemaking. Pietari’s other clients include Starbucks and the New York Times. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
Stephen Doig SHOP’s former features editor Stephen Doig is now men’s style editor and assistant luxury editor at the Telegraph; he has also written for Vogue, GQ and the Financial Times. His weaknesses include red wine and good cheese.
Grace Bird Grace Bird is SHOP’s assistant picture editor and her role also involves taking photographs for our print and online editions. She loves all kinds of art and craft, and can often be found doing origami or knitting in her bonsai garden.
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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Pietari Posti Contributor Stephen Doig Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion writer Danielle De Wolfe
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb
News editor Ginger Clark
Print Dane Consultancy
Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien
Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak
Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistants Charlotte Rogers, Selina Tan Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Milkha Lala Artworking assistant Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener
AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian
Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Sammy Ha, Adanna Nwachuku
GLOBA L BLU E U K Vice president sales Northern Europe Richard Brown UK managing director Gordon Clark UK sales manager Peter Blake UK marketing sales manager Kimberly Urbaniak Marketing account manager Patrick Prior International key account managers Barbara Badelt, Richard Harvey Key account managers Sarah Farag, Ramesh Juneja, Jerry Junkere, Mike Shrimpton, Victoria Taylor Account managers Enda Griffin, Holly Kippin, Marisa Sanchez, Dezelle Villanueva Global Blue UK, 11th f loor, GW2, Great West House, Great West Road, Brentford TW8 9HU, UK +44 (0)20 8232 1900 Regional tourist office Visit Britain London and Partners Advertising enquiries Contact Patrick Prior: pprior@globalblue.com
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue
The superlative-charged chronograph. 50 mm case in BreitlightÂŽ. Exclusive Manufacture Breitling Caliber B12 with 24-hour military-style display. Offcially chronometer-certifed.
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CONTENTS Products
Features
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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from London this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of the best dressed during London Fashion Week and London Collections Men
News 34 36
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Shop Window One store not to be missed in London News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products In Store … … with Stephen Briars, creative director of The Conran Shop, in the lifestyle retailer’s Marylebone High Street store
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Cover story: Rising To The Top Luxury crafts are no longer an exclusively male-dominated environment. Sally McIlhone profiles three elite craftswomen at the peaks of their professions Retail Royalty London’s leading department stores are the aristocrats of retail, as popular today as they have always been. Hannah Lewis discovers the secrets of their success Perfect Gentleman Paul Smith, famous for his suiting, is one of Britain’s most celebrated designers. Stephen Doig meets the charismatic creative
PHOTO: ANDREW MEREDITH
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Above: the flagship Selfridges store on Oxford Street
WHAT’S THE BUZZ? THE FINE JEWELLERY ROOM
harrods.com
+44 (0) 20 7730 1234
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CONTENTS
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Experience
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Table Talk From classic Spanish tapas dishes such as Ibérico ham and croquettes to more elaborate delicacies, London’s tapas bars have much to offer, writes Mónica R Goya Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels
PHOTO: © MÓNICA R. GOYA
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Guide 82
Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of London, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights
Essentials 100 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
Translations 101 Русский Перевод 107 美文翻译 112
Souvenir 114 The essential item to bring home
E NGL I S H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文
VISIT US ONLINE...
The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com
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FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- GlobalBlue /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent Above: a tempting plate of tapas at Tendido Cero in South Kensington
PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
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CHECK OUT
STAND TALL IN MARNI These sophisticated, elegant boots from Marni’s autumn/winter 2016/17 collection exemplify the fashion house’s eye for detail. Marni opened its first London boutique on Sloane Street in 2000, a move that placed the brand on the world’s fashion radar. Subsequent years have seen Marni go from strength to Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 100
strength, exhibiting cutting-edge creations on an international platform. The distinctive silhouettes and abstract forms of Marni’s designs are always a visual treat; this pair of boots is a must-have accessory for the autumn/ winter season. dw Marni boots, £1,000, Marni, 26 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9NE, +44 (0)20 7245 9520, marni.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 94
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ALL-WEATHER MAN Rain or shine, stay smart with a structured black waterproof and a check scarf
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1. Burberry scarf, £335, Burberry, 21-23 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RE, +44 (0)20 7980 8425, burberry.com
3. Ray-Ban glasses, £130, David Clulow, 6 Neal Street, London WC2H 9LY, +44 (0)20 7240 8284, ray-ban.com
5. Kenneth Cole Mankind Hero eau de toilette, 100ml, £49, House of Fraser, 318 Oxford Street, London W1C 1HF, 0344 800 3752, kennethcole.com
2. Globe-Trotter Propellor toiletries pouch, £300, Globe-Trotter, 35 Albemarle Street, London W1S 4JD, +44 (0)20 7529 5950, globe-trotter.com
4. Stutterheim Ålsten jacket, £240, Dover Street Market, 18-22 Haymarket, London SW1Y 4DG, +44 (0)20 7518 0680, stutterheim.com
6. Church’s boots, £515, Church’s, 201 Regent Street, London W1B 4NA, +44 (0)20 7734 2438, church-footwear.com
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PHOTO: (3) ELISABETTA MARES
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SHARP ANGLES 3
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1. Roger Vivier bag, £1,350, Roger Vivier, 188 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QR, +44 (0)20 7245 8270, rogervivier.com
3. Lanvin bag, £1,450, Lanvin, 128 Mount Street, London W1K 3NU, +44 (0)20 7491 1839, lanvin.com
2. Hermès bag, £6,530, Hermès, 155 New Bond Street, London W1S 2UA, +44 (0)20 7499 8856, hermes.com
4. Jimmy Choo bag, £1,395, Jimmy Choo, 27 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RH, +44 (0)20 7493 5858, jimmychoo.com
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5. Emporio Armani bag, £630, Emporio Armani, 51-52 New Bond Street, London W1S 1DQ, +44 (0)20 7491 8080, armani.com
PHOTOS: (2) VINCENTE SAHUC; (4) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY
Handbags this season are inspired by architecture – take your pick and make a statement
S H O P | 27
SPLASH OF COLOUR 3
Multihued accessories provide refreshing additions to a dark outfit
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PHOTOS: (1) PAUL DIXON; (2) ANTONIO BARRELLA/STUDIO ORIZZONTE
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1. Isa Arfen cape, £800, The Shop at Bluebird, 350 King’s Road, London SW3 5UU, +44 (0)20 7351 3873, isaarfen.com
3. Jo Malone Basil & Neroli cologne, 100ml, £86, Jo Malone, 101 Regent Street, London W1B 4EZ, +44 (0)3701 925021, jomalone.co.uk
2. Bulgari earrings, £16,500, Bulgari, 168 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RE, +44 (0)20 7872 9969, bulgari.com
4. Fendi bag, £1,460, Fendi, 141 New Bond Street, London W1S 2BS, +44 (0)20 7927 4172, fendi.com
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5. Dolce & Gabbana sneakers, £662, Dolce & Gabbana, 53-55 New Bond Street, London W1S 1DG, +44 (0)20 7495 9250, dolceandgabbana.com
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THE FINAL TOUCHES Black and silver make a classic, elegant combination for accessories
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1. Montblanc backpack, £830, Montblanc, 119 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EP, +44 (0)20 7629 5883, montblanc.com
3. Norse Projects x Hestra gloves, £100, Snow & Rock, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7173 6476, norseprojects.com
5. Rolex watch, price on request, Rolex, 29 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4QG, +44 (0)20 7493 2716, rolex.com
2. GoPro Hero Session camera, £159.99, Peter Jones, Sloane Square, London SW1W 8EL, +44 (0)20 7730 3434, gopro.com
4. Sandqvist Arne bag, £145, Sandqvist, 79 Berwick Street, London W1F 8TL, +44 (0)20 7434 0727, sandqvist.net
6. Marshall headphones, £135, Marshall, Boxpark, 2-10 Bethnal Green Road, London E1 6GY, +44 (0)20 7033 2899, marshallheadphones.com
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PHOTOS: (5) ©ROLEX/ALAIN COSTA; (6) JOAKIM EKLÖF
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A-line silhouettes and prints featured heavily at London Fashion Week; Tina Leung and Doina Ciobanu led the way, opting for bold, geometric designs
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PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
STREET STYLE
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Attendees at London Collections Men, including musician Tinie Tempah, chose monochromatic palettes and gradated hues to create casually elegant ensembles
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PHOTOS: ANDREW BARBER/OMNISTYLE
STREET STYLE
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SHOP WINDOW
THE HOME OF DIOR Fans of Dior will be delighted to hear that the brand’s largest boutique in the UK recently opened on Mayfair’s New Bond Street. Designed by noted architect Peter Marino, the store concept fuses the classic Dior aesthetic with traditionally British elements. The four-floor boutique offers women’s ready-towear and accessories, jewellery and watches, as Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 100
well as the Baby Dior and children’s collections. Menswear can be found on the lower level, where an alteration service is available for the first time in the UK. With three private VIP salons and a perfume area offering exclusive creations, the boutique provides visitors with a chance to experience the entire world of Dior. A luxurious Dior Home collection has also been unveiled, offering a variety of pieces from cushions to crystal glassware. hl Dior, 160-162 New Bond Street, London W1S 2UE, +44 (0)20 7355 5930, dior.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 89
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PHOTO: TOM FALLON PHOTOGRAPHY
FIRST FOR BELLA FREUD
FIT FOR A KING Oxfords, sneakers and loafers are just some of the styles that make up the broad offering of Christian Louboutin’s menswear collection this season. An autumnal colour scheme suggests the changing seasons, ranging from warm red hues to earthy greens, while the combination of different materials, embroideries and stud details adds texture and depth. Three distinct threads run through the collection:
one focuses on the modern city dweller, another offers collegiate-inspired styles. These are complemented by sumptuous influences taken from the opulent royal court of Tudor times, as seen in the Tudor Night smoking slippers (pictured, £695) made of laser-cut velvet. gc Christian Louboutin, 35 Dover Street, London W1S 4NQ, +44 (0)843 227 4322, christianlouboutin.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 89
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Twenty-six years after launching her eponymous label, Bella Freud has opened her first shop, located across two floors in a former art gallery. Designed by architect and designer Maria Speake of Retrouvious, the store is based around a colour scheme of red and green balanced by grey walls, with reclaimed stone floors, bespoke brass rails and custom-made velvet Richelieu carpets. The intimate, home-from-home feel of the store is the perfect environment in which to discover the designer’s seasonal knitwear and tailoring, as well as her fragrances and candles. gc Bella Freud, 49 Chiltern Street, London W1U 6LX, +44 (0)20 7935 0777, bellafreud.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 88
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CASE HISTORY Smythson, established in 1887, has almost 130 years of experience in luxury leather goods. For 2016 the brand has launched its first carry-on luggage series, the Greenwich Collection, a range of travel bags spanning everything from a cabin trolley to a washbag, made in a combination of calf leather and water-resistant lacquered cotton. This stylish yet functional new collection is proof that Smythson knows how to cater for the keen modern traveller without forgetting its origins – the name refers to Greenwich Mean Time, a nod to Smythson’s British roots. gc Smythson, 40 New Bond Street, London W1S 2DE, +44 (0)20 7629 8558, smythson.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 89
PHOTO: MONCLER
MOUNTAIN CHIC
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Alpine clothing company Moncler has upped its presence in London with a new store. The Gilles & Boissier architecture studio, which has worked on Moncler’s boutiques for a number of years, designed this latest space, which covers 330 square metres and occupies the entire three floors of its Old Bond Street address. Smoked oak floors are balanced by white and black marble and the space is finished with burnished brass features. The elegant new store
is home to the Moncler Gamme Bleu and Gamme Rouge collections, as well as the Moncler and Moncler Grenoble, accessories and Moncler Enfant ranges. Moncler clothing combines the most advanced highperformance technical fabrics with equally high style. gc Moncler, 26 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4QD, +44 (0)20 3876 1960, moncler.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 90
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FREE SPIRIT Lalique has unveiled a new scent for men, L’Insoumis (£70, 100ml) – the name of this free-spirited fragrance translates into English as rebel or maverick. Perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin has put together top notes of basil, rum and bergamot, followed by sage, lavender and black pepper; the base notes are a combination of patchouli, vetiver and moss. The fern motif on the bottle is taken from the house’s classic Tourbillons vase, designed in 1926 by René Lalique. L’Insoumis thus combines the Lalique brand’s past and future; this is a fragrance with personality. gc Lalique, 47 Conduit Street, London W1S 2YP, +44 (0)20 7292 0444, lalique.com
RIMOWA OPENS ON NEW BOND STREET Rimowa has unveiled its first ever concept store on London’s illustrious New Bond Street. The design of the space was inspired by the process of making a suitcase – a procedure in which two-dimensional materials becomes three-dimensional. Aluminium sheet Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 100
holograms are a recurring motif throughout the store, part of an optical play with light and reflection. The cases are displayed in niches along the walls and on podiums in the centre of the space. The use of high-quality materials such as white lacquered wood, leather and aluminium is dynamic and sophisticated, in keeping with the brand’s DNA. gc Rimowa, 153A New Bond Street, London W1S 2TZ, +44 (0)20 7629 8131, rimowa.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 89
PHOTOS: (TOP) FRANK SCHWARZBACH AG; (BOTTOM) RUPERT PEACE
FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 90
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PHOTO: ONPHRAME
FLOWER OF SCOTLAND
KORS KINGDOM May 2016 was an important month for Michael Kors: the brand opened its largest European flagship store and also introduced a new design concept. The new retail space, situated on Regent Street, one of London’s key shopping destinations, is housed in a beautiful Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 100
Fran Stringer made her debut at Pringle of Scotland with the autumn/winter 2016/17 collection. The new womenswear design director wanted to celebrate Pringle of Scotland’s status as a Scottish heritage brand, while designing a collection appropriate for modern women. Traditional styles such as Aran and Guernsey sweaters are adapted and incorporated into the range, while twin sets and all-knit outfits ensure a contemporary take on knitwear. The colour scheme incorporates wool’s natural hues as well as shades of the Scottish landscape, enhanced by the varied textures of cashmere, Shetland wool, mohair, silk and cotton yarns. Pringle of Scotland celebrated its 200th anniversary in 2015; Stringer’s first collection is a fitting homage to the brand’s roots. gc Pringle of Scotland, 94 Mount Street, London W1K 2SZ, +44 (0)20 3011 0031, pringlescotland.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 88
historic building. The interior design is sleek and modern, defined by materials such as macassar wood and marble, and a colour palette of soft browns and greys. A limestone ‘runway’ starting at the entrance guides visitors through the store, inviting them to discover all the Michael Kors product categories. gc Michael Kors, 179 Regent Street, London W1B 4JQ, + 44 (0)20 7659 3550, michaelkors.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 91
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KEEP TRACK OF TIME The waxing and waning of the moon once played an important role in the way we tell the time, and the Wempe Zeitmeister Moon-Phase watch acknowledges this. The full-calendar timepiece displays the date, day of the week, and phase of the moon. Founded in 1878, Wempe remains a family-run business, internationally known for its distinguished jewellery and timepieces. gc Wempe, 43-44 New Bond Street, London W1S 2SA, +44 (0)20 7493 2299, wempe.com
IN BRIEF This season British accessories designer Sophie Hulme has launched a range of evening bags. The Compton collection features two key styles, a tote and an envelope, available in four colourways
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GAME ON Pixels and colour are the starting points for Anya Hindmarch’s autumn/winter collection, which renders early arcade games such as Space Invaders using leatherwork techniques including heat fusing and leather marquetry effects. The collection’s bags and clothing reflect the designer’s colourful, playful signature vision, including the Giant Pixels Bathurst satchel (pictured, £1,595). Thanks to Hindmarch’s clever eye, technology and fashion become a perfect match. gc Anya Hindmarch, 118 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EW, +44 (0)20 7493 1628, anyahindmarch.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 89
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HEEL APPEAL Shortly after opening its first store on Elizabeth Street in 2015, Bionda Castana found it had outgrown the space, so this summer the footwear brand moved to new premises on the same street. Visitors to the store can discover the autumn/winter 2016/17 collection. Garnet, khaki and cognac are recurring hues this season, combined with a wealth of different textures. Favourite styles include the Sahar boot (£625), with fringing for a Seventies touch, or the elegant Lama pump for evening events. Those in search of something unique can arrange an appointment with co-founder Natalia Barbieri to create the bespoke shoe of their dreams. gc Bionda Castana, 75 Elizabeth Street, London SW1W 9PJ, +44 (0)20 7730 6207, biondacastana.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 94
PHOTO: © MATT WRITTLE 2016
MANOLO STEPS INTO SELFRIDGES
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Manolo Blahnik’s new shop-in-shop at Selfridges plunges visitors into the footwear designer’s wonderful universe. The space, which was codesigned by Blahnik himself, takes inspiration from the Georgian architecture found in Bath, and fuses it with the designer’s love of monochrome combined with bright colour. Both women’s and men’s collections are on display here. This recent addition to Selfridges makes the London department store an even more enticing shopping destination. gc Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), selfridges.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 88
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RED ALERT RedValentino recently threw open the doors of its first London flagship, inviting customers to come and discover its ready-to-wear and accessories collections. Architect and designer India Mahdavi is responsible for the design of the space, including the generously sized glass and brass storefront that encourages visitors to step inside the RedValentino world. The interior of the 170-square-metre store is defined by a white, pink and ochre colour scheme and elegant, curving lines punctuated with brass and enamelled ceramic elements. gc RedValentino, 133 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9AX, +44 (0)7469 704629, redvalentino.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 94
PHOTO: MILES WILLIS 2014
IN BRIEF
DISCOVER DELPOZO Spanish label Delpozo has opened its first London store on fashionable Sloane Street. The stylish space features natural materials such as wood and marble, and has been designed to make the most of natural light. Delpozo’s creative director Josep Font globalblue.com
trained as an architect before turning his hand to fashion, and took a central role in developing the store concept. His architectural background is also reflected in his clothing, which plays beautifully with shape and volume, with colour and texture, and with the juxtaposition of structure and softness. Delpozo describes its offerings as ‘prêt-à-couture’, due to the exquisite craftsmanship which has
Head to Bruton Place to discover Ara Vartanian’s new flagship boutique, the first outside the jewellery designer’s native Brazil
always been at the heart of the brand. Even in its simplest creations, Delpozo looks to the world of haute couture for inspiration, sparing no effort or detail. Feminine and romantic but packed with attitude, Delpozo is a brand that should be on everyone’s radar. hl Delpozo, 134 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9AT, +44 (0)20 7881 0950, delpozo.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 94
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BY APPOINTMENT TO YOU By Appointment Only Designs has over eight years’ experience of transforming luxury hotels, stately homes, churches and distinguished London residences with its beautiful floral designs. In September 2016 the company launched a new home fragrance collection under the name of By Appointment Only Perfumes; its nine new scented candles are presented in Italian crystal holders (240g, £55), each inspired by a different room of a stately home. The candles are supplemented with diffusers (700ml, £160) in five of the nine fragrances, in Italian crystal bottles resembling decanters. The Great Hall evokes the aromas of a log fire with notes including pepper, cedar wood and vetiver; a bouquet of berries, Earl Grey and garden flowers suggests the Drawing Room; the Summer House is fragrant with peach and melon. This collection of home fragrances conjures up a quintessentially British lifestyle. gc By Appointment Only Perfumes, Corinthia Hotel London, Whitehall Place, London SW1A 2BD, +44 (0)7921 910754, byappointmentonlydesigns.com
The East India Company has unveiled a series of iced tea recipes. Developed by the firm’s tea master, the blends transform the brand’s black, oolong and green teas into deliciously cooling long drinks. The loose-leaf teas are infused for eight hours, then combined with one of the company’s floral cordials for extra flavour. The First Romance black tea, for example, an aromatic blend of Sri Lankan black tea studded with fruit pieces and flower petals, is given a sweet floral twist with the addition of East India Company poppy cordial. Whether you drink your iced tea as it is or use it in a cocktail, these delicious cold brews can be savoured at any time of the year. gc The East India Company, 7-8 Conduit Street, London W1S 2XF, +44 (0)20 3205 3395, eicfinefoods.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 90
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PHOTO (BOTTOM RIGHT): NATALIA SLEPOKUR
TIME FOR TEA
Porsche Design Timepieces
1919 DATETIMER ETERNIT Y Exquisite alligator leather and browned titanium. Timeless elegance inspired by Bauhaus architecture and design. Designed in Austria. Swiss made.
19 19 C O L L E C T I O N INSPIRED BY OUR PASSION FOR DESIGN
www.porsche-design.com Porsche Design London | 59 Brompton Road | +44 [ 0 ] 20 75814442 Porsche Design Harrods | 87䪿Brompton Road | +44 [ 0 ] 20 78938878
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IN STORE: THE CONRAN SHOP
‘Sir Terence Conran’s lifetime impact on the world of design has been extensive. As a designer, his influence extends to stores, brands, restaurants, architecture, the Boundary hotel, co-founding the Design Museum and writing over 50 books on how we live today. Conran has a long heritage and a great legacy; The Conran Shop sees his love of the best products from around the world coming together in one place. That makes it an exciting company to work for. Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 100
‘I worked as director of visual merchandising at Louis Vuitton to curate the brand’s window concepts and implement the delivery of in-store experience in more than 400 stores worldwide. Coming from a luxury brand, I can see the story we have to tell at The Conran Shop. ‘Most recently I was the creative director at Urban Outfitters, where I opened 30 stores and elevated the creative content and experience. Prior to that I had the pleasure of working at
PHOTO: XIMENA DANERI/FANI MARI
Stephen Briars, creative director of The Conran Shop since 2016, has brought the knowledge and expertise he gained at Urban Outftters, Louis Vuitton and Paul Smith to his role. He tells Ximena Daneri about The Conran Shop’s history, top products and future plans
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Paul Smith, which was a supremely creative experience. ‘The biggest challenge is working out which stories to use. The richness of the brand means there is so much history to explore. And there is so much great design out there, which we curate for our stores. Our website is a little easier to stock as we can place so many more things there. ‘The Conran Shop has established itself as one of the leading lifestyle retailers in the world, with 11 stores in different countries offering an eclectic collection of gifts, furniture, lighting and personal accessories from internationally respected designers and emerging talents. With its dedication to providing an unbeatable shopping experience and its carefully curated products, expert interior advice and personal services, The Conran
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Shop is the go-to place for any type of gift or interiors inspiration. Our employees are design savvy and their knowledge of, and excitement for, our products is impressive. ‘When the first shop opened in 1974 it was at a time when Terence Conran had encountered huge success with the launch of the iconic Habitat store, and The Conran Shop served very much as the icing on the cake. Its edit of the best interior items and accessories from around the world was simply unparalleled. Our flagship store in Chelsea opened in 1987: it’s a huge space in the original 1911 London headquarters of the Michelin Tyre Company. ‘Our Marylebone High Street store is very different – an old stable from the outside, with a modern, bright interior. It houses the same beautiful
edit of products and our newly refurbished café, The Conran Kitchen, where you can relax and take coffee. The building’s glazed atrium takes you up to the apartment with its mix of exceptionally designed and vintage furniture, and its own garden terrace. ‘Our signature product changes all the time, but right now you have to check out the Lumio book light; we sell them as fast we can get them. It looks like a book with a wooden cover, which opens to reveal a beautiful arc of illuminated pages. We like it so much we are working with Lumio founder Max Gunawan to make a version exclusively for The Conran Shop.’ The Conran Shop, 55 Marylebone High Street, London W1U 5HS, +44 (0)20 7723 2223, conranshop.co.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 89
RISING
TO THE TOP
Luxury crafts are no longer an exclusively male-dominated environment. Sally McIlhone profles three elite craftswomen at the peaks of their professions
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aking a name for oneself in the luxury world is challenging enough in the 21st century, where new brands crop up on a near-daily basis; and the bulk of luxury crafts are dominated by male manufacturers, making it even more difficult for elite female makers to gain recognition for their exceptional skills. However, the tables are turning. We spoke to three women in the high-end craft industry to discover how they carved out their own niches in the world of bespoke. In April 2016, Kathryn Sargent became the first female master tailor to open her own shop on Savile Row. Sargent developed an affinity for menswear at fashion college, and worked at two renowned tailors, Denman & Goddard and Gieves & Hawkes, becoming the first female head cutter at the latter. She set up her own business in 2012. Though she has 101
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faced challenges, striking out as a woman in a male dominated industry has been a positive experience. ‘It has not been easy; the job itself is hard work enough without having to deal with issues that may arise due to gender. However, I have received a lot of support and have been encouraged by colleagues, male and female, within the Savile Row community,’ Sargent says. ‘I have also had amazing support from my clients who are always very encouraging of my work.’ Sargent’s work speaks for itself. She has been commissioned by the British royal family, among other notable figures. ‘I love taking a client on a journey, where we discuss an initial idea, right through to creating the completed garment,’ she explains. ‘The biggest positive is seeing my clients enjoy the bespoke journey, and knowing that they will treasure their Previous page: master tailor Kathryn Sargent at work Above: Kathryn Sargent’s shop on Savile Row
MADE IN boggi.com
London | 49 Jermyn Street | Tel. +44 20 7629.24.95 | 28 Sloane Square | Tel. +44 20 7823.50.44
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For a different type of decoration, seek out Fiona Krüger’s captivating luxury watches. The Scottish designer fell in love with watchmaking during her master’s degree, after visits to the Patek Philippe museum and the Audemars Piguet manufactory. ‘I came up with the concept for my Skull collection during the Audemars Piguet workshop,’ Krüger recalls. Despite pitching the design to the brand and receiving positive feedback, Krüger’s design was not commissioned. Undaunted, Krüger took the project forward herself. ‘I produced a working prototype with the help of independent watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin, and Max Büsser from MB&F was on my
Women are taking their places at the highest levels of crafts, from tailoring to shoemaking to watchmaking
PHOTOS: DAN LOWE
garments for years to come.’ For a faultless piece of Savile Row tailoring, be sure to step into Kathryn Sargent’s store for a consultation. Once you’ve commissioned your stunning bespoke garment, you’ll need shoes to match, and Caroline Groves is the woman to make them. Groves, who grew up in a family of craftspeople, has a personal penchant for leather. ‘In my early twenties I met a shoemaker who needed a closer – someone who prepares and sews uppers of shoes.’ After training with the shoemaker and working alongside him for 15 years, Groves set up her own company in 2003. Groves, like Kathryn Sargent, has excelled in her trade. ‘Craft at this level is very democratic and as long as a passion and respect is shown and excellence aspired to, then there is no differentiation in gender,’ she asserts. ‘Some of the finest craftsmen in the bespoke trade are women and respected as such. It has certainly not held me back and in terms of attracting a clientele, it may well be an advantage.’ And she has certainly attracted a prestigious clientele: ‘My Blush hand-crocheted T-bar mary janes are a favourite of Carine Roitfeld’s, and she has used them twice in photo shoots for CR Fashion Book.’ Contact Groves via her website to discuss a bespoke shoe or bag commission.
Above (clockwise from top left): bespoke Campden leather bag; bespoke Emma burgundy boots; bespoke Abbie shoes, all Caroline Groves
PHOTO: ©CÉDRIC WIDMER
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Above: Fiona Krüger Petit Skull watch collection
diploma jury.’ After the watch started appearing on design blogs, Krüger started to receive enquiries from potential purchasers. ‘At that point I realised that there could be more to my student project and spent two years finding the right suppliers, redeveloping the design and finally launching the production of the first pieces at the end of 2013,’ she says. The skull motif had instant appeal due to its connections with time and mortality. ‘I found that skull-shaped pocket watches were a huge trend in the 16th century, and one of the most beautiful was given to Mary, Queen of Scots as an engagement gift,’ she explains. ‘I brought to the design my own personal memories of the Dia de los Muertos [Day of the Dead] celebrations in Mexico as well as my love
for beautiful mechanical movements, and that’s how the design was born.’ Though she says the experience of being a woman in the watch industry was initially ‘strange and intimidating’, Krüger has thrived. ‘Being surrounded by men has actually been a great thing,’ she concludes. ‘From a business point of view, being a bit of an anomaly in the industry, though scary at first, has actually been very helpful in terms of people taking notice, which is important.’ Her watches are now stocked in Harrods. In crafts from tailoring to shoemaking to watchmaking, women are taking their places at the highest levels; there is clearly room for everyone in the upper echelons of the luxury industry
Above (clockwise from top left): back of Petit Skull watch; Celebration Skull watch; Skull watch, all Fiona Krüger
PHOTOS: ©CÉDRIC WIDMER
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www.greubelforsey.com
QP à Équation White gold case - Millésimé
170 New Bond Street, London W1. Tel: 0207 290 6500
RETAIL I ROYALTY
n 2016, Fenwick of Bond Street celebrates 125 years at its prestigious London address. The department store opened in 1891 and remains one of the most famous in the city, as respected today as it was in its first years of success. Still in the hands
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PHOTO: ANDREW MEREDITH
With centuries of success between them, London’s leading department stores are the aristocrats of retail, as popular today as they have always been. Hannah Lewis discovers the secrets of their longevity
of the Fenwick family, it is one of the major fashion destinations in the British capital. Offering fashion, beauty, spa treatments, restaurants and much more besides, Fenwick has been one of the city’s best-loved retail spaces for over 12 decades.
While London can’t claim to be the indisputable birthplace of the department store, the city has a real affinity with these spaces, and is home to some of the most famous in the world. Fenwick is not even the oldest among them. Harrods, Liberty and
Above: the flagship Selfridges store on Oxford Street
Fortnum & Mason all predate it, the latter having first opened as early as 1707. Selfridges, though younger than the others, has nonetheless been delighting customers since 1909. So what makes London’s leading department stores so enduring?
Their very longevity is an alluring factor. From Liberty’s Tudor-revival façade to the Beaux-Arts architecture of Selfridges, the structures that house these stores act as advertisements for their heritage. Maintaining and even expanding on such standout design – see, for example, the Egyptian-themed escalator at Harrods – reinforces the power of this sense of nostalgia. Walk through the doors of any of these department stores and your experience has much in common with that of a visitor a hundred or more years ago. But, of course, tradition is not the only draw. The stores are loved for their ability to balance classic, time-tested elements with the completely new. Liberty, for example, is on
PHOTO: FENWICK OF BOND STREET PHOTO: PAUL RAESIDE 1997
PHOTO: BROTHERTON LOCK
PHOTO: FENWICK OF BOND STREET
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a constant quest to challenge expectations, and has been known for its fashion-forward, often alternative concepts since its launch in 1875. The iconic mock Tudor structure which has housed the store since 1924 contains an impressive variety of departments, from the traditional to the unexpected. The barbershop in the menswear department is run by Murdock London, one of the capital’s most fashionable men’s grooming names. This autumn, alternative jewellery label Maria Tash will open a permanent boutique within Liberty, following on from its highly successful popup. Interestingly, while the department store concept may seem traditional, it allows constant flux: small but significant changes to separate
Above (clockwise from top left): store display celebrating the 125th anniversary of Fenwick of Bond Street; the store’s exterior; the famous Egyptian-themed escalator at Harrods; the store’s exterior
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departments can be made as often as necessary. The variety offered in these spaces is a major appeal, and London’s top department stores offer almost everything imaginable. While other retailers are just beginning to expand their offerings in a bid to draw customers away from e-commerce, establishments such as Fortnum & Mason have been providing this diversity for years. Founded in 1707 by William Fortnum and Hugh Mason, the store initially sold groceries and speciality foods, and gradually expanded to offer much more – including leather goods, gifts and luxurious homewares. But what makes Fortnum & Mason stand out as a destination are its dining options – in particular its famous afternoon tea. The Fortnum & Mason Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon, opened by none other than Queen Elizabeth II, is consistently listed as one of the quintessential places in London to take afternoon tea. The department
PHOTO: TOBY LEWIS THOMAS
The department store is more than a retail space; it’s somewhere to spend quality time
Above (from top): Liberty’s iconic mock-Tudor facade; the Murdock London barbershop in the store
PHOTO: © GRANT SMITH
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store is more than a retail space: it’s somewhere to spend quality time. This is also true of Selfridges. When it opened in 1909, the beautiful Beaux Arts style building – which even today seems more like an aristocratic residence than a store – had an impressive 100 departments, as well as restaurants, a roof garden, and reading and writing rooms. The space had more the feel of a private club than a boutique, which delighted discerning clients. American founder Harry Gordon Selfridge was known for his commitment to the ‘theatre of retail’ – for taking the experience of shopping to a new level – and his legacy remains at the store which bears his name. The ever-changing window displays reflect this; from designer collaborations to the unmissable Christmas displays, they have become almost as much of a draw as the products they showcase. But perhaps Harry Selfridge’s greatest legacy is the famous theory of service that he Above (from top): Fortnum & Mason; The Parlour at Fortnum & Mason; the Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon at Fortnum & Mason
PHOTO: ANDREW MEREDITH
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London’s top department stores are loved for their ability to balance classic elements with the completely new
is credited with originating: ‘The customer is always right.’ This philosophy can be seen in action across all London’s famous department stores; for example, the Harrods motto Omnia Omnibus Ubique translates from Latin to English as ‘All things for all people, everywhere’. Each has an extensive staff of knowledgeable employees, all committed to providing the best customer service possible, whatever you desire, from a coffee to go to a made-to-measure garment. Whatever you are seeking, they will make it their mission to find it for you – with courtesy and a smile; and that is why customers return time and again
Above (clockwise from top): Selfridges Oxford Street store after its full extension in 1931; Prada’s apartment within the Shoe Gallery at Selfridges; Selfridges 1920s fashion window display
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PERFECT GENTLEMAN Paul Smith, famous for his suiting, is one of Britain’s most celebrated designers. Stephen Doig meets the charismatic creative
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ir Paul Smith’s Covent Garden office is a helpful visual clue to how the designer’s mind works. All manner of books – anthologies, biographies, photography tomes, fashion volumes, encyclopaedias, works as thick as slabs of granite – line the shelves that make up the back wall. They slide from desks, they are piled on windowsills. A veritable curiosity shop of toys is strewn across surfaces; origami creations dangle here and there; bikes (he has 17 in the office) are propped against sculptures and a two-metre high styrofoam iPod takes up floor space. A cluster of balloons bobs quietly as people swish past; vinyl records sit alongside an old school record player; painted ceramic animals peer out amidst the clutter. It’s an Aladdin’s cave of Paul Smith’s sartorial informants: a snapshot of the disparate interests and ephemera that spark his enthusiasm. There’s a desk here somewhere, although it
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Opposite: Sir Paul Smith
PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM
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Above and opposite (all images): Paul Smith spring/summer 2017 at Paris Men’s Fashion Week
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takes a degree of hunting to find it. ‘I’m a very spontaneous person, if I see something that catches my eye I can’t resist buying it,’ explains the designer. As well as being spontaneous, Smith is a dynamo of energy. ‘I’ve been here since 6am,’ he says, and by all accounts that’s not unusual. Smith is a famously early riser, greeting the day at any time between 4am and 5am. With a knighthood and a CBE under his belt and an empire that spans the globe, he shows no signs of wanting to take it easy. He’s fresh from his latest men’s show in Paris, presenting a collection for spring/summer 2017. ‘We make sure that my clients from 73 countries can always find the right white shirt and the right blue suit, but on the other side we have a fashion show. It costs a lot of money and takes 12 minutes to show the industry we have new ideas. So there are two sides to how we work.’ At a time when the British fashion industry is more acclaimed than ever, it’s remarkable to
note just how long Smith has been at the top of his game. A rarity for retaining an independent brand rather than being absorbed into a luxury conglomerate, he opened his first small shop in Nottingham in 1970. Before long he turned to men’s tailoring, and in doing so helped spark a quiet revolution that still resonates today: the easing of men’s tailoring. ‘I wouldn’t compare my business to his because his is much bigger, but in the 1970s there was Giorgio Armani in Italy and Paul Smith in Britain both doing something different; relaxing the classic suit, changing the silhouette,’ recalls Smith. Smith has always had a passion for cycling; his first ambition was to become a racing cyclist and, while his career has taken a very different turn, his love for the sport has remained. This longstanding love of life on two wheels inspired him to embark on a pioneering tailoring project a year ago: A Suit To Travel In. Crafted using technical wool from esteemed Italian fabric maker Loro Piana, the suits are designed
with lightness and flexibility in mind, and are perfect for the office. This season, Smith expanded the range to encompass suits in bold colour. It’s a move that chimes with the trend for sports-luxe that’s come to dominate men’s style in the 21st century, as athleisure becomes a buzzword for houses from Milan to Manhattan. To demonstrate the fluidity of the range, Smith unveiled it on athletes, who leapt, cartwheeled and pole-vaulted while wearing the suits. While this season is dominated by the 70s trend, Paul Smith has always mined the decade Above (all images): A Suit to Travel In by Paul Smith
when he began his career in fashion. ‘If you wore a suit in the 1970s, you were either going for a job interview, to a wedding or a funeral,’ he observes. ‘But we realised that by changing the lining and softening the silhouette, we could change how people perceive suits. By the early 80s young people were wearing my suits and that has continued. Today we have clients who are buying their suits for their first jobs, their weddings – businessmen and rock stars both. It’s very diverse and that’s because our suits are very comfortable.’
PHOTOS: COURTESY OF PAUL SMITH
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PHOTO: COURTESY OF PAUL SMITH
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
PHOTO: COURTESY OF PAUL SMITH
Paul Smith helped spark a quiet revolution that still resonates today: easing men’s tailoring and relaxing the classic suit
It’s clear that, away from the catwalk theatrics, Smith has built a solid, substantial business. ‘We have clients in 73 countries. I’m happy to mix pattern and print together, play with colour, but we need to have a balance. It’s a seesaw effect; you might see a bright suit on the catwalk but you’ll also be able to get it in a classic colourway.’ It’s a remarkable feat for the boy from Nottingham who left school at 15. Whether you’re a banker in the city or a graduate readying himself for his first interview, Paul Smith’s clothes are a byword for reliable, informed style that will put the wearer at ease
Above (clockwise from bottom left): two looks from Paul Smith’s A Suit to Travel In collection; Paul Smith spring/summer 2017
E . MARINELLA 54 Maddox Street London W1S 1AY ph: 020 7493 4210 | marinella@marinellanapoli.co.uk
100 YEARS OF TAILOR MADE EXCELLENCE NAPLES
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TABLE TALK From classic Spanish tapas dishes such as Ibérico ham and croquettes to more elaborate delicacies, London’s tapas bars have much to offer. Mónica R Goya selects some of the best
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PI ZA R RO Chef and cookbook writer José Pizarro has three successful restaurants to his name; he opened José Tapas bar near London Bridge in 2011, followed shortly after by Pizarro, just a few yards away. His third restaurant, José Pizarro, is located in the City. The interior at Pizzaro is traditional. Tiled and wooden walls complement the rustic furniture, and the atmosphere is vibrant and lively – a combination that effortlessly transports customers to Spain. Pizarro developed his career at respected Spanish restaurants in Madrid and London before embarking on his own project, taking inspiration from places such as La Boqueria market in Barcelona. The pivotal importance of fresh, high-quality produce shows in all the plates that leave his kitchens – don’t miss the gambas al ajillo, a dish of prawns cooked with garlic and chilli. Pizarro, 194 Bermondsey Street, London SE1 3TQ, +44 (0)20 7378 9455, josepizarro.com
PHOTO: © MÓNICA R. GOYA
London is one of the most exciting places to enjoy tapas outside Spain – dozens of restaurants in the British capital have added tapas dishes to their menus, and many are solely dedicated to these small plates. One of the most appealing stories of the origins of tapas is that King Alfonso XIII of Spain stopped at a tavern in Cadiz; to protect the king’s drink from insects and wind-blown sand, the waiter covered the glass with a slice of ham. The king liked it and ordered another drink with a ‘tapa’ – the Spanish for lid. Today these small savoury dishes are served with drinks, but their signifcance goes beyond a delicious mouthful to eat – the liveliness and vibrancy of a good tapas bar is an authentic introduction to the Spanish attitude to food. Tapas, drinks, conversation and friendship combine in homage to the pleasures of relaxed living and conviviality. Many London restaurants ofer highquality tapas, from small plates true to their Spanish roots to more innovative variations. Whatever the time of day, sit down, relax, and let yourself be carried away by the joyful Spanish way of life.
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Ibérica offers a contemporary menu that revisits the classics, featuring sublime ingredients. Created by Michelin-starred executive chef Nacho Manzano, the everevolving seasonal menu presents classic Spanish tapas such as croquettes and tortilla alongside more unusual dishes that include Iberian pork loin or Galician style octopus. The drinks menu reflects Spain’s regional diversity, offering cava from Catalonia, cider from Asturias and a lengthy wine list featuring award-winning examples produced everywhere from Tenerife to Galicia. The three-course lunch menu is conveniently available until 5pm. Ibérico ham is carved on the spot and other Spanish delicacies, from cheeses to pastries, can also be bought at the restaurant’s deli. With five London locations, including the Marylebone branch on Great Portland Street, plus restaurants in Leeds and Manchester, Ibérica is one of Britain’s tapas favourites. globalblue.com
Ibérica, 195 Great Portland Street, London W1W 5PS, +44 (0)20 7148 1615, ibericarestaurants.com
PHOTOS: © MÓNICA R. GOYA
IBÉR ICA
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BARRAFINA
Barrafina’s menu was inspired by classic regional dishes from all over Spain and the seafood offer here is particularly outstanding. The Adelaide Street branch in Covent Garden was named Restaurant of the Year in the 2015 National Restaurant Awards, and in 2016 was only narrowly beaten into second place, while the Frith Street branch holds a Michelin star. A third branch on Drury Lane opened in 2015. The savoir-faire of executive head chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho is evident in every dish, from her delicious crab buns to the pork belly with mojo verde (coriander salsa); she achieves authentic Spanish flavours that remain true to their roots, while giving a new dimension to fresh local ingredients. Diners seated at the marble-topped bar can watch the chefs at work in the busy open kitchen. Barrafina does not take reservations, so you may have to queue – but the wait will be worth it. Barrafina, 10 Adelaide Street, London WC2N 4HZ, barrafina.co.uk
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T EN DI DO CERO
PHOTOS: © MÓNICA R. GOYA
Tendido Cero, part of the Cambio de Tercio group of eateries, serves small plates and tapas. The décor at this South Kensington restaurant is modern: bright pink and yellow tones and white tablecloths make a perfect setting for its lively, relaxed atmosphere. The tapas menu is divided into five sections: raw, veg and salads, charcuterie, meat, and classics. The offer includes Spanish favourites such as gazpacho, croquettes, Padrón peppers, Ibérico ham and patatas bravas (spicy potatoes with garlic mayonnaise and chilli sauce), alongside more sophisticated dishes such as king prawns with yuzu mayo and tataki atun (tuna) with ajo blanco almond sauce. The extensive drinks menu offers over 250 Spanish wines from small producers and established wineries, including sherries and cava. Tendido Cero, 174 Old Brompton Road, London SW5 0BA, +44 (0)20 7370 3685, cambiodetercio.co.uk
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STAY IN STYLE The world’s fnest hotels boast desirable locations, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best
D’ANGLETERRE One of the most luxurious hotels in Copenhagen, the five-star deluxe D’Angleterre has provided exceptional service, hospitality and comfort for over 250 years, and is more appealing than ever since its renovation in 2013. It has 90 spacious rooms and suites, and a range of facilities designed to create a stylish, restful retreat in the heart of the city. The Amazing Space spa has the only indoor pool in globalblue.com
central Copenhagen, along with a fully equipped fitness studio, and a menu of treatments that combine Asian and Nordic traditions. The Michelin-starred Marchal restaurant offers fine dining in a chic and relaxed environment, while the sleek, contemporary champagne bar, Balthazar, has a lavish bar menu and an impressive drinks list. D’Angleterre, Kongens Nytorv 34, 1050 Copenhagen, +45 3312 0095, dangleterre.com
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CASA BONAY Barcelona’s Casa Bonay, which opened in 2016, occupies a neoclassical-style former family home that has been immaculately converted into a chic and comfortable hotel. The rooms come in a variety of sizes and styles; some have separate reading rooms and are equipped with yoga kits, others with spectacular views, and the best have private terraces designed to make the most of every bit of sunshine. Imaginative
dining options include Libertine, a relaxed cocktail bar, tea corner and restaurant; the quirky Elephant, Crocodile and Monkey eatery; a cold-pressed juice bar; and a coffee corner. Breakfast includes everything from yoghurt and granola with honey and stewed fruit to Catalan and Japanese options. Casa Bonay, Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 700, 08008 Barcelona, +34 93 545 8070, casabonay.com
PHOTO: CONSTANTINO LEITE
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BAIRRO ALTO HOTEL The five-star Bairro Alto Hotel is ideally situated in the heart of Lisbon’s historic district, between the bohemian Bairro Alto area and fashionable Chiado. It is set in a renovated 19th-century building, and has 55 luxurious rooms (soon to be 85) decorated in an inviting contemporary style that makes clever use of warm colours and period details. The Flores do globalblue.com
Bairro restaurant offers a menu of fusion dishes, eclectic décor and views of Praça Luis de Camões; lighter bites are available at Café-Bar BA, which has DJs or live music nightly. Admire the stunning panorama of the Rio Tejo and the city’s ancient rooftops from the top-floor BA Terrace. Bairro Alto Hotel, Praça Luis de Camões 2, 1200-243 Lisbon, +351 21 340 8288, bairroaltohotel.com
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GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to London with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from an art deco-inspired beauty parlour to an Asian fusion restaurant with futuristic decor. Start with our recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.
PHOTO: PAUL CLARKE
A Glimpse Of London
SHOP, the world’s leading travel and shopping guide, wants to learn more about you, our readers. To tell us more about yourself, and have the chance to win an iPad Pro, visit globalblue.com/shopsurvey, or scan the QR code. Above: the bird’s-eye view from the Duck & Waffle restaurant on the 40th floor of Heron Tower in the City of London
SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY ‘Explore the beauty of the city’s details, experience daily life like a Londoner, and expect a delightful surprise around every corner’ – Amberose He, Global Blue’s Chinese online editor
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PHOTOS: KIRSTY ANDREWS; JESSICA CASEY; SUZZANE HARRIS; AMBEROSE HE; DIONNE HÉLÈNE; CHRIS JL CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
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BRITISH MUSEUM
ROYAL FESTIVAL HALL WATERLOO
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Featured In This Issue
AL B E
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88 | G U I D E
Mount Street, Davies Street & Bruton Street M● LIA SON WIL & & ND ● LLA HO LLAND ● I HO ON B RI ZO ● KEN ELL A ST Y ● TNE T ● CAR AN MC MAR HEW AT T N ● BEL M O ISA MS OE ● J LIA WI L AU L & P ● ● LEY EST MPER IP S ● VER LL TE YE VO N PHI OT H LD IAN E RG ● NA TIM D O R NBE LA ● STE IE FU R M A RG RIS ● N AR RH ISO MA MILLE
● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ● TURNBULL & ASSER BOURDON STREE T
DUNHILL BOURDON ● HOUSE
● LANVIN
● LOEWE
● CAROLINA HERRERA
● GOYARD
Mount Street Deli
● MOYNAT DELFINA ● DELETTREZ ● CÉLINE ● MARNI ● PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND ● GEORG JENSEN ● STEPHEN WEBSTER
Connaught Hotel
MOUNT STR EE T
DAVIES STREET
NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD ●
ROKSANDA ●
C A R L O S P L ACE
ScoÉ’s
BALENCIAGA ● CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ● PAULE KA ●
MARC JACOBS ●
MOUNT ROW ● ROLAND MOURET ● JESSICA MCCORMACK SOLANGE ● AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE ● JENNY PACKHAM
GRO SVEN O R HIL L
BRU
TO N
STR
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Berkeley Square
P.40 CIRE TRUDON ●
● BELLA FREUD
P.36
Selfridges BOND STREET
TRE
SELECTED STORES IN SELFRIDGES: Tiffany & Co Manolo Blahnik P.42
NE W BOND S
ROBERT CLERGERIE ●
ET
LO OT A L SS G R TI L A O OX FO RD S T RE ● VI UTH ET ● PINKO ● A ACCESSORIZE ● C ● IN S L BOSIDENG ● E IL ICA R A BROWNS ● A N T ● A RU S H O D D BROWNS FOCUS ● ● L INK AR WHISTLES ● ● P ÉR BS CLAUDIE PIERLOT ● ● G OB NK ● H PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND ● CE I ● BUTLER & WILSON ● PA I S S I N R O R S S M ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● ● R E AT I C A K E L E DUNE ● ● C AS BA OP N ● M E D KO LE VERTICE UOMO ● ● T E IL ● TH LUMAS GALLERY ● M R ● EN EA JONES ● R AU MONICA VINADER ● K A OW N E ● S L A J E O O B AT E B O A N S ● M I T AFTERSHOCK ● The Beaumont ● SA E TI O L S S ● P UC MA ET T POSTE ● ● R HO E LA COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● N Y ● T T I CO MODA IN PELLE ● ER ● AR HO LL T C AUBADE ● ● K WE OF N C JE S DO ● INK N SANDRO ● SPENCE R L LO ANNOUSHKA ● ● HART ●
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PHOTO: CMACDFOTO
P.94
UT
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BENTALLS
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BROOK STREET
Claridge’s
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BROOKS MEWS
AV SONIA ● RYKIEL ● POMELLATO
DAVIES STR EET
VERA WANG AT BROWNS ●
RO W
GROSVEN OR STREET
● DUNHIL L
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Bentalls department store in Kingston, southwest London, began as a drapery in 1867 and is now owned by Fenwick, one of London’s best-loved retailers. Bentalls has five cafés, including Carluccio’s and Caffè Nero, an ice-cream parlour, a sushi and gyoza bar, a restaurant and a currency exchange. However, the main attraction in the store is the wide variety of fashion, accessories, beauty and menswear, which includes the latest collections from labels such as Kurt Geiger, Ralph Lauren and Diesel. As the largest store in Fenwick’s portfolio, Bentalls is well worth a visit. Bentalls, Wood Street, Kingston upon Thames KT1 1TX, +44 (0)20 8546 1001, fenwick.co.uk Hotel
Restaurant
S H O P | 89
New Bond Street OX FO RD ST R
P.46
OP N SH NRA E CO E H T T T ● OX FO R D ST RE A● R LO EXT ET C H AI L B U RY ●N ZAR ●T ● P.90 E W IN L RD NA TM O G F E Y ● Z ●B ARE IL D O F E L G IN SAK O N EG RME ONS S● ● E OHNST V IA O J L N ● AT E E P RO ST ●B OND D YER OF B OX ● V IN T C H E S R IN ● ● O T A IN V IC TENTERDEN STREET PLA U ● ● W A S L E R A C IN I TENTERDEN STREET L IP L ● B RAH P P H IL L O R IB O ● A T ●S H IS P E M S● HAM B O N IA M S ● L E ER W IL AK IT RM ● IY RE LES M IG L A B AU D ● Y F O W SE IR B IG H ● SE D OLD H T● H O U C O IS G IS LU ROG S N ● ● ●O FRO E Y ● FR A L H ANOV ER STREE T IT H E M R O A BR BROOK ST R EE T M L& ● 77 DIAMONDS w ic k SEL ● Fe n RUS RET C E A S ANN IA’S GAB TO R & IC E V ● O LC RCH ●D DMA ● ANI A H IN B L A N C ARM T ANY N ● O R IO IE M P.41 OLL MPO A LI F ● ●E L S PI O O S Y F M BROO KS M E W S ERR O BO NK LY A ULB HUG ZI SE ● ●M GE HA E O LL HOU E A T ● R A T NE NA UV AS EW Z EG IR R LO A RI SHO S A AT A ●N CAR ET HM A M ● IN RO CH E RI ● P E ● IL ● Z ● ● ● PA L MA DD OX ST. ALI CAN 1● THE BOX BOUTIQUE .4 Y L P L ● A GROSVEN OR STREET G ● B EMPE IT L IN I ● ●W B R E E L IA N ● L N P.37 CH C O RD U N H IL ’S ● COA ON H ● ET RC THS CH U RY RE SMY ● E A ST L L IW C ● A EG N T G Z ● RA UI AU X E LV OPE ND ●D FF ● E LOT C O ● DSQUARED2 S TA I ● GRO SV ENOR HILL TA IN HUB N BEL ● O N F SO NNE M IS MP S● ●A CHA H IL IP I ● ONG OO SJ P ●L L Z IL L Y CH M BEL DI ● LEY AMP ● J IM FEN IE C ROM N ET C E E U R L &B TR U L ● S A L N O D L R U E O B ● SS PH ) L U S A R EN ● OR IL D R C H ● POL (C H R Y Y B U IU ● ERR TO R M URB IC ● IU N M ●B TO E N ’S 8 M ● P.3 TLE MÈS GEN H E R O WA ● R IM ● NA TO N T IA S OP V U IT L● ET TO N LOR H A N E O U IS STRE C ●L BRU R● OR D D IO LIFF AND 4 C L .3 R P IT Z E F SW E S O IP E H C ● T L S A Berkeley Square ● W E K P H IL A D IE ’S L R O N ● AT E ●P RCH O CHU BOUCH GON O IS E GR ON ● ●D D R E N O ● DL OF L R RY ●A ARD REY BURBE ARI ● HOP G ASP ● C IR A BUL GET ● O IN M IA ● P ● C PA CUS LAN ET LS ●B RPE M A R TO N ● U R EG EEF & A S B ● IN ● W FF CL Y IE N R ● A A R SS HA ●V GER L LO F N MOU BAD R A F L A U R E B R U N E IN E L L I ● ●G C LF & H NEL S WO ● CU ALP CHA E T ● DEN ●R M R U A NG C H A T IE R ● G TO IN CAR LES ● L R D BU B OO OTO ● O O ●● IM Y CH M IK R R IS ● O J IM MU B O U T IN ● M M ID N L OB E C K H A D AV IS T IA C H R IC T O R IA V
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P.36
Department Store
Place Of Interest
London Underground Station
Featured In This Issue
90 | G U I D E
Conduit Street & Old Bond Street ● C H ’S KES ● HUR H AW ●C RKS ES & CL A G IE V N OW IS O MA LA ● ILE R OUR S AV ●F D R G IE T ● E MA G O A IV E R UA R A S -S Q OL EY ● ● D -3 A D ID IYA K E ALD G E E N IN D IA ● Y SEY M ET O Z WO AT E N SW T ● TRE S EAS ANY ● IS TO N ●B ● T H E CO M P L IN G BUR TCH S N ● OLD SKE P.44 I● & SO OTO ELL A M J O H N● TO N AM U C IN S NOR O JI Y ● LO C B IE 8 VAT YO H .3 NEL P VA R ROM BRU ●C UE N NE A L IQ T IE N ESO ●L R EE V IV M A N ● R SH WOO D K ST ● L HE CO R ST OOD NO N IE WE R A ST W N N E IL L IP I ETE ●D H● WE F IV IE TOS ● ● V B IA N A C K IN K L E Y A BE MA ●F HOC DRO ER ● ON R ELL ● WA KIT ● &P ● OLD BY CK G RHI ● R IG BAR BLA FA OLO S E L IC O L E EE T R RY ●P D IE N RBE STR U ●B OND ● B YS OLD HEB S● SOT ARD T N● DW REE E R E E O S S IA O ● E ST ARL IN TAT ER M SCH ALB MO
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The Wolseley
SELECTED STORES IN BURLINGTON T ARCADE: N S T R E E MY J E RBlahnik Manolo Bell & Ross Frédéric Malle
CHARLOTTE TILBURY Charlotte Tilbury is one of world’s most in-demand make-up artists and her eponymous make-up line helps beauty fans to also master the tricks of the trade. Tilbury’s first standalone store, which opened in November 2015, will send cosmetics lovers into raptures. Inspired by old-school glamour, the art deco-style store showcases the brand’s range of beauty products and skincare to perfection. Book an appointment to learn how to create the perfect red lips, bold brow or Tilbury’s signature ‘feline flick’, or enjoy a one-hour session with one of the store’s lead artists and overhaul your beauty regime entirely. Charlotte Tilbury, 11-12 James Street, London WC2E 8BT, +44 (0)20 3846 9469, charlottetilbury.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 89
.
Le Caprice
CAD
PHOTO: © ASH KNOTEK
M A DD OX
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Shopping Centre/Mall
Restaurant
S H O P | 91
Regent Street
TOP 3… WINTER EVENTS IN LONDON
GR EAT C ASTLE STREET
LEVI’S ●
● TOPSHOP/TOPMAN
OXFORD CIRCUS BENETTON ●
OX FO RD ST
● TEZENIS
FRENCH CONNECTION ● KAREN MILLEN ● TED BAKER ● APPLE ● LACOSTE ●
RE ET
● OMEGA
LONGCHAMP ● MOLTON BROWN ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● MICHAEL KORS ●
● & OTHER STORIES ● ACCESSORIZE
● ARMANI EXCHANGE ● ALL SAINTS ● H&M
AN ● BAN
M A SC U TU ● AQ U T B LI C STR EE A R EP U ROUGH
G R E AT
P.40
FURLA ● HOBBS ● BARKER ● TUMI ● CAMPER ● KIPLING ● CLARKS ●
O MARLB Liberty
● COS ● DESIGUAL
R EG E
● HOUSE OF HANOVER
● GAP
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REE
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● JAEGER
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CHURCH’S ● THE PEN SHOP ●
FO
CAR
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Skate at Somerset House Embrace winter’s festive atmosphere in true British style at the 900-squaremetre ice rink installed each November in the courtyard of Somerset House. Whether you’re a beginner or already nimble on the ice, admire the building’s neoclassical grandeur as you brush up your skating skills. Somerset House, Strand, London WC2R 1LA, +44 (0)20 7845 4600, somersethouse.org.uk/ice-rink
● NIKETOWN
H&M ●
REGENT STREE T
The Peter Pan Cup Established by novelist JM Barrie, the author of Peter Pan, the Peter Pan Cup race for members of the Serpentine Swimming Club takes place on 25 December. Brave swimmers plunge into the icy depths of the Serpentine in Hyde Park to swim the traditional 100 yards, which makes for a lively and sociable spectacle. serpentineswimmingclub.com
FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 87
London Underground Station
Department Store
PHOTO: MARK SEYMOUR CC BY 2.0
Southbank Winter Market This winter market, hosted by the Southbank Centre, is picturesquely located on the bank of the Thames and surrounded by some of London’s most famous landmarks. Visitors can expect a cluster of wooden chalets selling everything from mulled wine and homemade seasonal treats to handmade crafts. southbankcentre.co.uk
Place Of Interest
Featured In This Issue
92 | G U I D E
Regent Street, Piccadilly & Jermyn Street ● HUGO BOSS ● OUR LEGACY
● LEVI’S
Cinnamon Soho Jinjuu
● REISS
S AV I
● WOLFORD ● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● GUESS ● ANTHROPOLOGIE ● MASSIMO DUTTI
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GODIVA ● SWAROVSKI ●
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PENHALIGON’S ●
JAC+ JACK ●
● FOLLI FOLLIE ● THE BODY SHOP
TOYWATCH ●
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BURBERRY ●
SELECTED STORES IN PRINCESS ARCADE: The Left Shoe Company
BR
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DINOSAUR DESIGN ●
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● MR HARE
DENM AN PL
● AUSTIN REED ● WOLFORD ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT ● MOSS BROS ● UNIQLO LONDON TEXTILE CO ● ● COACH REISS ●
SUPERDRY ●
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WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND ●
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P.95
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● JAMES LOCK & CO ● BERRY BROS & RUDD
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Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Blow Dry Bar
Featured In This Issue
Shopping Centre/Mall
Department Store
S H O P | 93
Brompton Road
RO X
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H IN D M
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London Underground Station
Restaurant
Hotel
Café
94 | G U I D E
CIRE TRUDON Cire Trudon, known for its exquisite scented candles, has introduced another way to perfume your home. The chic La Promeneuse diffuser uses fragrant wax cameos, which are placed in a ceramic dish and heated from below with a tea light to release their delicious smell. A brass spoon, cleverly fitted into the ceramic dish, makes it easy to extract the cooled wax and change cameos as and when the mood strikes. Cire Trudon, 36 Chiltern Street, London W1U 7QJ, +44 (0)20 7486 7590, trudon.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 88
Sloane Street North
Sloane Street South CADO GAN GATE
KNIGHTSBRIDGE
CADOGAN PLACE
Harvey Nichols
● PINK ELL IS STREET
● GARRARD C A D O G A N G A R DEN
● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
DOLCE & GABBANA ● SHANGHAI TANG ●
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DOLCE & GABBANA ● JITROIS ● CESARE PACIOTTI ● OMEGA ●
ANNE FONTAINE ●
● MONCLER ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ● ESCADA ● MISSONI ● LOUIS VUITTON
● DOLCE & GABBANA
● EMILIO PUCCI ● CHANEL ● DRJIE ● LA PERLA ● COUTTS & CO BANK
CADOGA N PLACE
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Blow Dry Bar
Featured In This Issue
● MAJE ● ● ● ●
KIN
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Department Store
● BIONDA CASTANA
LARA B OHNIC PICKETT N PEAL CASSANDRA GOAD
Colbe rt
Sloane Square ROYAL COURT THEATRE
SLOANE SQUARE S LOA N E G A R D E N S
● SAINT LAURENT
SLOA NE TERRACE
P.42
LOW ER SLOANE STREET
● VALENTINO
● JO MALONE
● HUGO BOSS
GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ●
● BULGARI
PETER JONES ●
● DODO ● BOGGI ● HOSS INTROPIA
● HERMÈS
WILBR AHA M P L .
● CHLOÉ
SY MONS STR EE T
● TM LEWIN ● RIGBY & PELLER ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● WOLFORD ● ELLIOT RHODES ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● BCBGMAXAZRIA ● CATH KIDSTON ● ERIC BOMBARD ● WHISTLES ● COS
LORO PIANA ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ●
ry
PRADA ●
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GIORGIO ARMANI ●
● FENDI
● KABIRI BIMBA Y ● LOLA VIVIENNE ● WESTWOOD
PAULE KA BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ANYA HINDMARCH BROWNS
LINKS OF LONDON ●
A● HK ● US RS NO TE S ● A N T ROT P L E Y ● O E KO M L I ● TH E BRO L& EL
TOD’S ●
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AMOUAGE ●
BOTTEGA VENETA ●
● MIU MIU
L O W N D E S S T.
SLOANE STREET
JIMMY CHOO ●
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● ROGER VIVIER
MICHAEL KORS ● DIOR ●
Lowndes Square
k an
GUCCI ●
REDVALENTINO ● P.43 DELPOZO ●
HACKETT ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● FRANK SMYTHSON ● CARTIER ● TIFFANY & CO ●
HARRIET ST.
● BERLUTI ● GINA
MARNI ●
P.43
● ERMANNO SCERVINO
RU
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● TOM FORD
JOSEPH ● ROBERTO CAVALLI ●
P.22
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BONPOINT ●
BOUTIQUE 1 ●
● ALBERTA FERRETTI
Duc
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HOGAN ● GRAFF ●
● SERGIO ROSSI
SLOANE STREET
SLOANE STREET
MCM ● H&M ●
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PHOTO: CYRILLE ROBIN
BOODLES ● ALEXANDR ● KID SPACE ●
S H O P | 95
Redchurch Street C A LV ● START
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CATCH & RELEASE ●
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S H O R E D I TC H H I GH
THOR & WHISTLE ● W HI T BY
HOL ST
R EDCH
THE GALLERY ●
Owl & the Pussycat
F IE L D
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W NOBLE LEATHERWARE ●
HOSTEM ●
STR EE T
SHOREDITCH HOUSE
TC L A
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Albion
Boundary
SUNSPEL ● AIMÉ ● APC ●
MAISON TROIS GARCONS ●
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OLD NIC
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Boxpark
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TOP 3…BLOW DRY BARS Blow Ltd Blow Ltd, open from 7am in both its Covent Garden and Canary Wharf branches, is perfect for early birds and is known for fast and fabulous blow dries, make-up appointments and gel manicures and pedicures. Blow Ltd, 8 Slingsby Place, St Martins Courtyard, London WC2E 9AB, +44 (0)20 7240 7987, blowltd.com
Duck & Dry Duck & Dry, centrally located on the King’s Road in Chelsea, has its own café and bar for those seeking refreshment as well as a touch of glamour. A choice of 16 blow-dry styles means there’s a look here that will suit every hair style and occasion. Duck & Dry, 335-337 King’s Road, London SW3 5ES, +44 (0)20 3489 9370, duckanddry.com
FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 92
London Underground Station
Show Dry For an unarguably luxurious blow dry, try Show Dry. Vases of pale pink roses adorn the glossy black counter tops and services include a signature bouncy blow dry alongside up-dos, braids and intensive treatment masks, all using the fabulous Show haircare products. Show Dry, 173 Westbourne Grove, London W11 2RS, +44 (0)333 006 8888, showdry.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 97
Shopping Centre/Mall
Restaurant
Bar
96 | G U I D E
Ledbury Road E&O
VINE CO L
TER
R AC
E ART ESI AN ROA D ● PENOLOPE CHILVERS
ILLE
● MELISSA ODABASH
R OA
WEST
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● WOLF & BADGER EMMA HOPE ● ● ROBIN MARTIN ANTIQUES MARIE-CHANTAL CHILDREN ● ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● ORLEBAR BROWN IRIS ● ● REISS JOSEPH ● MELT ● ● BODAS ASHLEY STORES ● ASSYA LONDON ● ● DAVID CLULOW JEEVES ●
VE
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BOUR
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LEDBU
Beach Blanket Babylon
AD
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ANYA HINDMARCH ● MR HARE ●
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Otolenghi
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TWENTY8TWELVE ● MATCHES ● DIANE VON FURSTENBERG ● THE VILLAGE BICYCLE ● CARAMEL ● EWS EM LYON CHOY LONDON ● V IL L CO L PETIT BATEAU ●
DE
FARA BABY ● FARA KIDS ●
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Kojawan restaurant, on the 23rd floor of the Hilton London Metropole hotel, offers spectacular views and super-high-tech decor, giving the feeling of floating above the city in a futuristic spaceship. The Asian-fusion cuisine is served as sharing dishes, with our favourites including the stone bass poke with shiso, jalapeño and sake from the raw bar, octopus with lemon and smoked red pepper oil from the charcoal oven, and the braised short rib with chilli, green leaves, mushrooms and peanuts. Tasting menus are also available, for vegetarians as well as meat eaters. For dessert, PanTako (pancakes filled with white chocolate, berries and coconut) is a must-try. End the evening with a Plum Crazy cocktail, which combines plum sake, sparkling sake and yuzu.
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
PHOTO: CHRIS ORANGE
KOJAWAN
Kojawan, Hilton London Metropole, 225 Edgware Road, London W2 1JU, +44 (0)20 8088 0111, kojawan.uk
Restaurant
Café
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AD L AC Y RY R O LEDBU
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WEST
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ART ESI AN ROA D TEMP
COV
Featured In This Issue
Blow Dry Bar
Place Of Interest
LA
VIL
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WALL ● LANNA ●
ROA D
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EM V IL L CO L
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For those who want to enjoy Michelinstarred food in the comfort of their own home or hotel, Supper is here to help. The London company delivers food from some of the capital’s best restaurants, including Scalini, C London and Bar Boulud, direct to your door. supper.london PHOTO: SUPPER
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LOCAL TIP
Westbourne Grove & Denbigh Road
The Ledbury
98 | G U I D E
DAY TRIP BICESTER VILLAGE Located just an hour from central London, Bicester Village is surrounded by picturesque countryside and is close to the historic city of Oxford. Bicester Village plays host to more than 130 boutiques from leading luxury brands and up-and-coming labels.
The architectural design reflects its setting, with lowrise boutiques clustered around an open-air boulevard. Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6WD, +44 (0)1869 366266, bicestervillage.com
OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-7pm Saturday: 9am-8pm Sunday: 10am-7pm* *On Sundays Burberry, Gucci, Hugo Boss and Polo Ralph Lauren open at 11.30am for browsing and at 12pm for shopping; they close at 6pm. Prada and Versace open from 12pm to 6pm for shopping.
BICESTER NORTH BICESTER TOWN/ BICESTER VILLAGE Bicester Village
A41
M1
M40
A41
M1 M40
M25 M40
LONDON
HOW TO GET THERE By Car The journey from London takes 60 minutes. Take the M40 motorway to exit nine. Follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester and then follow the signs to Village Retail Park and Bicester Village Outlet Centre. The car park is free. If you are using a satellite navigation system, the postcode is OX26 6WD.
Train Station
Outlet Village
By Shopping Express The Shopping Express is the daily* coach service from central London to Bicester Village, one of the world’s premier luxury shopping destinations. *excludes 25 December Ticket prices: Adult return £28 Child return £23 (up to 15 years of age)
By Train Two trains an hour run from London Marylebone to Bicester Village station. The journey can take as little as 46 minutes. Alternatively, four train services an hour run from Marylebone to Bicester North station, where the Bicester Village shuttle bus will whisk you to your favourite boutiques.
S H O P | 99
MY PERFECT DAY GLOBAL BLUE’S COMMERCIAL EDITOR RUAIRIDH PRITCHARD DESCRIBES HOW HE WOULD SPEND A PERFECT DAY AT BICESTER VILLAGE
SERVICES The suite of services offered includes the award-winning Bicester Visitor Centre, valet parking, a children’s play area, personal stylists, Hands-Free Shopping, a contemplation room, a money-changing facility and instant tax refunds.
DON’T MISS… SHOPPING DAY EXPERIENCE This exclusive package includes:
• Return tickets on the Shopping Express luxury coach service from central London to Bicester Village • A VIP Card providing additional savings in participating boutiques • Hands-free Shopping service where boutique assistants pack your purchases ready for collection later • A two-course lunch or dinner at either Villandry Grand Café or Carluccio’s • £50 Bicester Village Gift Card to spend in the boutiques of your choice
MUST-VISITS
PHOTO: (PROFILE) © ANTONIO OLMOS
HUNTER • The Hunter brand, established in 1856, holds royal warrants from both the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh. Discover the Hunter Original and Hunter Field collections in the Bicester Village boutique.
BALENCIAGA • French fashion house Balenciaga was founded by Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga who opened his first boutique in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1918, and established his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1936.
10am Start your day at Mulberry, a quintessentially British brand with a reputation for balancing creativity and modernity with the traditions of leather craft and manufacture. 11am Be sure to stop at Tag Heuer, purveyor of some of the finest Swiss timepieces. The boutique is the perfect place to pick up some new wristwear. 1pm Take a break for lunch at Farmshop. This all-day dining destination from Soho House & Co has been created exclusively for Bicester Village. 3pm A modern American luxury brand rooted in quality and craftsmanship, Coach is synonymous with the ease and sophistication of New York style. 5pm End your day at Anya Hindmarch. The British designer’s colourful and quirky handbags, as practical as they are appealing, have made her brand a hit among the fashion set.
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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE
Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop
Refund Office Details London Heathrow Terminal 1 London Heathrow Terminal 2 London Heathrow Terminal 3 London Heathrow Terminal 4 London Heathrow Terminal 5
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
2. Claim
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.
London Gatwick North Terminal London Gatwick South Terminal International Currency Exchange, 339 Oxford Street, London W1C 2JB International Currency Exchange, Westfeld London, Ariel Way, London W12 7GF No 1 Currency, City of London Information Centre, St Paul’s Churchyard, London EC4M 8BX Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL Topshop, 536-540 Oxford Street, London W1C 1LS Spend a minimum of £30 and save up to 14% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 106 110
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TRANSLATIONS
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 48: Rising To The Top
Путь к успеху Салли МакИлхоун рассказывает о трех женщинах, которые создают дорогие и качественные вещи на заказ и добиваются успеха в преимущественно мужской профессиональной среде Сделать себе имя в индустрии роскоши – непростая задача в 21 веке, поскольку новые бренды появляются буквально ежедневно. Чаще всего разнообразные дорогие и качественные вещи на заказ создают мастера-мужчины, поэтому женщинам еще труднее добиться узнаваемости за счет исключительных профессиональных навыков. Но постепенно ситуация меняется. Мы встретились с тремя женщинами, которые создают одежду и аксессуары по globalblue.com
индивидуальной мерке, и узнали, как они добились успеха в своей нише. В апреле 2016 года Катрин Сарджент (Kathryn Sargent) стала первой женщинойвладелицей собственного магазина на Сэвил-Роу. Впервые ее интерес к мужской одежде проявился еще во время учебы в модном колледже, затем она работала на прославленных портных – Denman & Goddard и Gieves & Hawkes. Причем в Gieves & Hawkes она стала первой женщиной на посту главного закройщика. Свой бизнес Сарджент открыла в 2012 году, и несмотря на все сложности, ее опыт работы в преимущественно мужской индустрии оказался успешным: «Это было нелегко: работа сама по себе сложна и помимо тех вопросов, которые появляются в связи с гендерными различиями. Однако меня поддерживали и вдохновляли коллеги по Сэвил-Роу, как женщины, так и мужчины, – делится Сарджент. – Кроме того, я постоянно
ощущала внимание со стороны клиентов, они всегда поощряли мое развитие». Работа Саржент говорит сама за себя: к ней обращаются известные люди, в том числе члены британской королевской семьи: «Я люблю отправляться в своеобразное путешествие вместе с клиентами: мы начинаем с обсуждения исходной идеи и движемся к созданию завершенного предмета одежды. Самое позитивное – это видеть то наслаждение, которое испытывают покупатели во время этого путешествия, и предчувствовать, что эти вещи они будут бережно хранить многие годы». Если вы хотите заказать безукоризненную одежду на Сэвил-Роу, обязательно побывайте на консультации в магазине Kathryn Sargent. К идеальной одежде, сшитой на заказ, необходима соответствующая обувь. И сделать ее по индивидуальной мерке может Каролина Гроувз (Caroline Groves). Гроувз выросла в семье мастеров и всегда интересовалась работой с кожей: «В двадцать с небольшим лет я познакомилась с обувщиком, который искал помощника для подготовки и подгонки верхней части обуви». 15 лет она училась у мастера и работала рядом с ним, а в 2003 году основала globalblue.com
собственную компанию. Как и Катрин Сарджент, Гроувз достигла совершенства в своем деле: «На этом уровне ремесло становится весьма демократичной сферой. До тех пор, пока в работе остается страсть и уважение, пока мастер стремится к совершенству, гендерные различия не существенны, – признается она. – Зачастую женщины становятся лучшими профессионалами в нашем деле, и их уважают за это. И конечно, гендерный вопрос не мог удержать меня от реализации идей, а в плане привлечения клиентов даже стал преимуществом». И она, определенно, сумела завоевать внимание статусных клиентов: «Туфли Blush с круглым носом и связанной крючком застежкой полюбила Карин Ройтфельд: она дважды надевала их во время фотосессий для CR Fashion Book». С Каролин Гроувз можно связаться через сайт, чтобы обсудить заказ обуви или сумки. Завершить образ помогут аксессуары: в частности, красивые и качественные часы Фионы Крюгер (Fiona Krüger). Она родилась в Шотландии и влюбилась в часовое дело после посещения музея Patek Philippe и фабрики Audemars Piguet во время учебы в магистратуре. «В рамках воркшопа в Audemars Piguet я впервые представила
PHOTOS: © CÉDRIC WIDMER
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концепцию коллекции Skull», – вспоминает дизайнер. Крюгер получила позитивную обратную связь от бренда, однако ее идею не выбрали. Решив не отчаиваться, она начала развивать проект самостоятельно: «Я создала рабочий прототип под руководством независимого часовщика Питера Спик-Марина, а Макс Бюссер из MB&F был в комиссии, оценивавшей мою дипломную работу». Вскоре ее часы стали появляться в дизайнерских блогах, и к Фионе Крюгер стали поступать запросы от потенциальных клиентов: «Тогда я поняла, что мой студенческий проект может стать чем-то большим – и посвятила два года поискам подходящих поставщиков и доработке дизайна. В итоге, в конце 2013 года я запустила в производство первые часы из собственной коллекции», – рассказывает она. Череп оказался невероятно привлекательным образом благодаря отсылке к времени и человеческой смертности: «Я обнаружила, что в 16 веке карманные часы в форме черепа были очень популярными. А королева Шотландии Мария Стюарт получила их в качестве обручального подарка, – объясняет она. – В свою модель я добавила собственные впечатления от празднования Dia de los Muertos (Дня мертвых) в Мехико, а также любовь к прекрасным механизмам. Так и появился этот дизайн». Она утверждает, что поначалу быть женщиной в часовой индустрии казалось чем-то «странным и пугающим». Однако вскоре она преуспела: «Работать в окружении мужчин потрясающе. С точки зрения бизнеса, отклонение от нормы в индустрии может, на первый взгляд, быть пугающим, но в итоге оно обернулось выгодой, поскольку люди обращают больше внимания, а это очень важно». Сейчас часы Fiona Krüger продаются в Harrods. Во всех сферах, будь то портновское, обувное или часовое дело, женщины все чаще занимают высочайшие позиции. И можно с уверенностью сказать, что в высших слоях модной индустрии найдется место для каждого.
PHOTO: PAUL RAESIDE 1997
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56: Retail Royalty
Легендарные витрины Шикарные лондонские универмаги с вековой историей известны своими аристократическими традициями и неизменной популярностью. Ханна Льюис пытается разузнать секреты их успеха В 2016 году Fenwick of Bond Street отмечает свой 125-летний юбилей. Этот лондонский универмаг, основанный в 1891 году, остается одним из самых популярных в городе с самого дня своего открытия. До сих пор управляемый семьей Фэнуик, универмаг считается одним из основных модных направлений британской столицы. Fenwick, предлагающий большой выбор одежды, косметики, спа-процедур и ресторанов, остается любимым местом шоппинга лондонцев на протяжении уже 12 десятилетий. Лондон сложно назвать родиной универмагов, тем не менее именно здесь находятся одни из лучших и всемирно известных магазинов этого типа. И Fenwick далеко не самый старый из них. Многим ранее открылись Harrods, Liberty и Fortnum & Mason, а последний и вовсе был основан еще в
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1707 году. Selfridges хоть и моложе остальных, но при этом радует своих покупателей еще с 1909 года. Так что же позволяет ведущим универмагам Лондона столь долго сохранять свою привлекательность? Одной из причин является их возраст. От тюдоровских фасадов Liberty до неоклассической архитектуры Selfridges, здания этих универмагов являются лучшей рекламой старинного наследия. Сохранение и развитие такого оригинального дизайна как, например, эскалатора в египетском стиле в Harrods, лишь усиливает чувство ностальгии. Проходя сквозь двери одного из этих универмагов, можно испытать практически то же, что чувствовали его посетители более ста лет назад. Но, конечно, богатые традиции не единственный фактор. Эти магазины любимы многими за уникальное сочетание классики и новизны. К примеру, Liberty, не перестает удивлять своих посетителей стильными и зачастую альтернативными концепциями с момента открытия в 1875 году. Ассортимент универмага, занимающего с 1924 года легендарное здание в тюдорском стиле, варьируется от традиционного до самого неожиданного. В отделе мужской одежды имеется парикмахерский салон Murdock London – один из самых стильных в столице. Этой осенью независимый ювелирный бренд Maria Tash откроет в Liberty постоянный бутик, который придет на смену успешному поп-ап стору. Несмотря на свою традиционность, универмаг непрестанно развивается: небольшие, но заметные перемены в отдельных отделах происходят с высокой периодичностью. Эклектичный выбор продукции – еще один из факторов, влияющих на привлекательность лондонских универмагов, в которых можно найти практически все, что угодно. В то время, как отдельные ритейлеры только начинают расширять свой ассортимент в попытках привлечь клиентов, привыкших к интернет-магазинам, такие универмаги, как Fortnum & Mason всегда имели завидный выбор продукции. Изначально магазин, основанный Уильямом Фортнумом и Хью Мейсоном в globalblue.com
1707 году, предлагал покупателям бакалею и деликатесы, постепенно дополняя ассортимент кожгалантереей, подарками и роскошной посудой. Но, что больше всего выделяет Fortnum & Mason из ряда других магазинов, так это возможность попробовать прекрасную еду и особенно знаменитый послеобеденный чай. Местное кафе Fortnum & Mason Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon, открытое самой королевой Елизаветой II, пользуется неизменной популярностью среди искушенных любителей полдника. Этот универмаг стоит посетить не только ради шоппинга, но также и для приятного времяпрепровождения с хорошей компанией. То же можно сказать и о Selfridges. Когда этот универмаг открылся в 1909 году, изящное неоклассическое здание, которое даже сегодня больше напоминает аристократический особняк, чем магазин предметов роскоши, имело 100 великолепных отделов, а также рестораны, сад на крыше и читальный зал. Некогда здесь царила атмосфера настоящего частного клуба, нежели бутика, радующего взыскательных клиентов своей пестрой продукцией. Основатель Selfridges, американец по происхождению, Гарри Гордон Селфридж был известен своей преданностью «театру ритейла». Ему удалось поднять покупательский опыт на совершенно новый уровень, а его наследие продолжает жить в магазине, получившем его фамилию. Постоянно обновляющиеся витрины универмага по-прежнему будоражат воображение покупателей и проходящих мимо зевак. От дизайнерских коллабораций до уникальных рождественских инсталляций, они привлекают практически столько же внимания, сколько и товары, которые они рекламируют. Возможно, величайшим наследием Гарри Селфриджа является знаменитая концепция сервиса, создание которой ему часто приписывают: «Клиент всегда прав». Эта философия применена на практике во всех известных универмагах Лондона и Великобритании; например, девиз Harrods – Omnia Omnibus Ubique, что переводится на русский язык с латыни, как «Всем, каждому
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PHOTO: COURTESY OF PAUL SMITH
и абсолютно все». Каждый универмаг может похвастаться обширным штатом опытных сотрудников, преданных своему делу. И совершенно неважно, какой совет вам необходимо получить, будь то выбор кофе или услуга индивидуального пошива одежды на заказ. Что бы вы ни искали, ваша просьба будет исполнена с любезностью и улыбкой; именно поэтому покупатели возвращаются сюда снова и снова. 64: Perfect Gentleman
Идеальный джентльмен Стивен Дойг рассказывает о Поле Смите – одном из самых известных и харизматичных дизайнеров Британии, особую славу которому принесли костюмы Офис сэра Пола Смита в Ковент Гарден способен многое рассказать о творческом мире дизайнера. Заднюю стену с пола до потолка образуют полки, заполненные всевозможными книгами: альбомами, биографиями, фолиантами о фотографии и моде, энциклопедиями и толстыми монографиями. Они также соскальзывают со всех столов и уложены в стопки на подоконниках. На всех поверхностях покоятся разнообразные вещицы, повсюду свисают оригами, велосипеды (коих в офисе 17) подпирают скульптуры, а оставшееся свободное место занимает двухметровый пенопластовый iPod. Грозди воздушных шаров весело танцуют, когда мимо них проходят люди, виниловые пластинки разложены вокруг старинного граммофона, и из всего этого многообразия вещей выглядывают расписные керамические животные. Это царство швейных помощников Пола Смита и панорама самых разных интересов и деталей, разжигающих вдохновение дизайнера. Где-то здесь есть стол, хотя нужно обладать определенным энтузиазмом, чтобы его найти: «Я очень спонтанный человек. Если я вижу что-то, что увлекает меня, то не могу не приобрести это», – объясняет дизайнер. Пол Смит не только спонтанный, но и чрезвычайно энергичный. «Я сегодня здесь с
6 утра», – говорит он, и судя по всему, в этом нет ничего необычного. Все в офисе знают, что дизайнер встает рано и начинает день между 4 и 5 утра. Он носит Орден Британской империи и владеет собственной модной империей, которая простирается на весь мир – и при этом нет ни намека, что он собирается расслабляться. Показ новой мужской коллекции весналето 2017 проходил в Париже: «Мы сделали так, чтобы мои покупатели в 73 странах в любой момент могли найти правильную белую рубашку и правильный синий костюм. Но мы по-прежнему проводим модные показы. Эти 12 минут показа стоят много денег и нужны, но важно продемонстрировать индустрии, что у нас есть новые идеи. Так что в нашей работе есть две стороны». Сейчас британская модная индустрия вызывает самый живой интерес за всю свою историю. На этом фоне особенно примечательно, как долго Смит остается во главе этого процесса. Paul Smith остается независимыми брендом, не входя в крупные конгломераты, и это само по себе редкость. Свой первый маленький магазин дизайнер открыл в Ноттингеме в 1970 году. Вскоре он обратился к мужской одежде и участвовал в той тихой революции, последствия которой мы ощущаем до сих пор: мужской костюм становился все более свободным. «Я бы не стал сравнивать наши компании, потому что
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Armani намного больше, но в 1970-е Giorgio Armani работал в Италии, а Paul Smith – в Великобритании. Оба делали нечто особенное: расслабленный классический костюм с гибким силуэтом», – вспоминает Смит. Смит всегда любил ездить на велосипеде. Он вообще сначала хотел стать велогонщиком, потом его карьера пошла совсем в другом направлении, но любовь к велосипедам осталась. Давняя страсть и вдохновила его на новый проект год назад: так появился костюм для путешествий A Suit To Travel In. Он идеален для офиса, но создан с мыслями о легкости и гибкости. Тонкую технологичную шерсть, из которой он сшит, производит уважаемая итальянская компания Loro Piana. В этом сезоне Смит также дополнил эту линию яркими оттенками. Проект оказался созвучен тренду на дорогой спортивный стиль, который доминирует в мужской моде 21 века. Это явление называется athleisure и стало ключевым для модных домов от Милана до Манхэттена. Гибкость этой серии Смит продемонстрировал во время показа: на подиум поднимались гимнасты, которые делали «колесо», прыгали с шестом и выполняли другие трюки прямо в костюмах. В этом сезоне стиль 70-х в тренде, а для Пола Смита это десятилетие ознаменовано началом карьеры в моде: «Если вы надевали костюм в 1970-е, вы могли отправиться и на собеседование, и на свадьбу, и на похороны, – размышляет он. – Но мы знали, что можем изменить восприятие костюма с помощью другой подкладки и смягченного силуэта. К началу 80-х молодые люди уже носили мои костюмы, и это продолжается по сей день: у нас есть клиенты, которые покупают наши костюмы для первой работы или на свадьбу, и это могут быть как бизнесмены, так и рок-звезды. Такое разнообразие обусловлено удобством». Естественно, за кулисами подиумной театральности Смит строит сильный и устойчивый бизнес: «У нас есть покупатели в 73 странах. Мне нравится смешивать узоры и принты или играть с цветами, но во всем необходим баланс. Это globalblue.com
как маятник: возможно, вы заметите яркий костюм на подиуме, но после показа должна быть возможность получить его же, но в классической расцветке». Это впечатляющий трюк для мальчика из Ноттингема, который окончил школу в 15. Одежда Paul Smith воплощает надежность и просвещенность, она заставит почувствовать себя свободно любого – и банкира в большом городе, и выпускника накануне первого собеседования. 100: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум £30 и сэкономьте до 14% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
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美文翻译 48: Rising To The Top 勇登高峰
PHOTOS: ©CÉDRIC WIDMER
奢侈品手工定制不再是男性的天下。Sally McIlhone向你介绍三位事业如日中天、技艺高超的 女性设计师 要在21世纪的奢侈品界打响招牌可不是一件容易的 事儿，几乎每天都有新的品牌诞生。其中，奢侈定制 领域更是男性一统天下，优秀的女性设计师想凭借 高超的技能获得认可更是难上加难。然而，世道在 变。我们采访到三位高端手工艺界的女性，了解她们 如何在定制领域开创出自己的一番天地。 2016年4月，Kathryn Sargent成为第一位在塞 维尔街（Savile Row）开设店铺的女性裁缝大 师。Sargent在时尚学院与男装结下不解之缘，先后 在两家知名裁缝店Denman & Goddard和Gieves & Hawkes工作，并在后者成为第一位女性首席裁
缝。2012年，她自立门户。尽管挑战重重，她却在男 性主导的行业中脱颖而出，而这样的经历也让她收 获了信心。 “一路走来不容易。就算不和性别相关问 题打交道，这份工作本身就充满了挑战。不过很多人 给了我支持，塞维尔街的同行们，无论男女，都给了 我很大的鼓励， ”Sargent由衷地说道。 “顾客们也鼎 力支持我，他们经常鼓励我的工作。” Sargent的作品就是最有力的证明。她是英国王 室和其他许多名流的御用裁缝。 “我喜欢带着客人开 启一段旅程，从讨论最初想法一直到完整做出一件 服装， ”她解释道。 “最大的乐趣就是看到我的顾客享 受定制过程，在未来的日子好好珍惜这些服装。”欲 购一件完美无暇的塞维尔街定制西服，请务必前往 Kathryn Sargent的精品店垂询。 在定制美服后，还需要搭配一双好鞋，Caroline Groves就是制作这双鞋子的不二之选。在工艺世家 长大的Groves对皮革情有独钟。 “我二十出头的时候 遇到一位鞋匠，他需要一个负责准备工作和缝制鞋 帮的小跟班。”Groves跟着这位鞋匠训练、工作了十 五载，后于2003年创建了自己的公司。 和Kathryn Sargent一样，Groves也在自己的 领域出类拔萃。 “这个层次的创作非常自由，只要倾 注了热情、尊重和精益求精，性别方面不会有什么差 别， ”她直抒己见。 “定制领域最优秀的手工艺人有一 部分是女性，她们同样受到人们的尊重。我从不因为 自己的性别而退缩，性别在吸引顾客方面甚至可能 成为我的优势。”她的确拥有一批重量级顾客： “我 制作的红色T字手钩玛丽珍鞋是Carine Roitfeld的 最爱，她两度在拍摄《CR Fashion Book》杂志时 穿着。”您可以通过Groves的官网与她取得联系，预 约定制鞋履或手袋。 如果想物色与众不同的配饰，不妨考虑一下 Fiona Krüger设计的迷人奢侈腕表。这位苏格兰设 计师在攻读硕士学位期间参观了百达翡丽（Patek Philippe）博物馆和爱彼（Audemars Piguet ）工 厂，并对腕表制作一见钟情。 “我在爱彼的工作室萌 发了骷髅（Skull）系列的想法， ”Krüger回忆说。尽 管Krüger向爱彼推荐这款设计，且收到了积极的回 复，但她的想法并没有被采纳。于是乎，Krüger勇 敢地独自挑起项目的大梁。 “在独立制表师Peter Speake-Marin的帮助下，我制造出了产品原型，而 MB&F腕表的Max Büsser就是毕业答辩委员会当 中的一员。” 那枚腕表在设计博客上亮相后，Krüger旋即收 到许多潜在顾客的垂询。 “就在那时，我突然意识到 我的毕业设计可以大有作为。于是我花了两年的时 间寻找合适的供应商，重新设计了一番，随后在 2013年底开始生产第一批腕表， ”她说道。 骷髅主题因为其与时间与死亡的联系而摄人心 魄。 “我发现骷髅形状的怀表在16世纪风靡一时，最
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漂亮的一款莫过于送给苏格兰玛丽女王（Mary Queen of Scotts）的订婚之物， ”她解释道。 “我在 设计中注入了对墨西哥亡灵节（Dia de los Muertos）庆祝活动的记忆和对机械机芯的热爱， 这款设计正是由此而生。” Krüger表示，以女性的身份闯荡腕表界一开始 有点“奇怪和害怕” ，但她很快就站稳脚跟。 “在男性 中一枝独秀其实是件好事， ”她总结说。 “从商业的角 度来看，虽然我一开始有些害怕，但在业界，不一样 的气质为我赢得了许多关注的目光，这很重要。”她 设计的腕表在哈罗德百货有售。 无论是剪裁、制鞋还是制表领域，女性都纷纷 开始在最高水准的舞台上绽放异彩；毫无疑问，每个 人都有机会攀登奢侈品行业的巅峰。
56: Retail Royalty 零售王国 伦敦顶尖的百货商店堪称零售业贵族，历经数百年 辉煌，如今风光依旧。Hannah Lewis带您揭示它们 经久不衰的秘密
2016年，芬尼克百货（Fenwick）邦德街店迎来了其 在这条伦敦知名购物街上落足的第125个年头。这家 百货公司于1891年开门迎客，如今依旧是伦敦最著 名的百货公司之一，风光不减创立当年。在芬尼克家 族的经营下，它成为了英国首都的一大时尚目的地。 芬尼克百货商店汇集了时装、美妆、spa疗养、餐厅 等，120多年以来一直是伦敦最受喜爱的零售场所之 一。 虽然伦敦不能被称为真正意义上的百货公司诞 生地，但却与百货有着非比寻常的渊源，多家世界知 名百货商场都坐落于此。相比之下，芬尼克并不是最 古老的那一家，哈罗德（Harrods）、自由百货 （Liberty）和福南梅森（Fortnum & Mason）百 货的历史都要比它悠久，最早能追溯到1707年。甚 至后来居上的塞尔福里奇（Selfridges）百货公司也 早在1909年就已喜迎八方来客。那么，这些伦敦顶 尖百货商店经久不衰的秘诀是什么呢？ 其悠久历史赋予给它们无限魅力。无论是自由 百货的都铎复古外观，还是塞尔福里奇百货的美术 学院派建筑，这些百货商店的建筑本身无不述说着 它们深远的历史。竭力传承乃至发扬光大这些吸引 眼球的设计，能够增加商店的历史感，从哈罗德百货 的埃及主题自动扶梯上便可见一斑。踏入这些商店 的大门，您将和一百多年前的顾客拥有近乎相同的 体验。 当然，悠久的历史并不是唯一的吸引力。这些百 货商店完美地将经典的元素与全新的风格融合在一 起，深受顾客喜爱。其中，自由百货自1875年创立之 globalblue.com
时便以时尚前卫、不拘一格的理念而闻名于世，常常 给人带来意外的惊喜。1924年，自由百货乔迁至其 标志性的都铎风格建筑，它仿佛一座包罗万象的宝 藏，从传统商品到不同寻常的物件，应有尽有。男装 部的理发店由Murdock London经营，他是伦敦最 时尚的男性发型师。继“快闪”活动大获成功之后， 今年秋天另类珠宝品牌Maria Tash将登陆自由百 货，开设一家永久性的精品店。虽然百货商店这一概 念听似老派，但是它们常变常新，从而不落俗套。 丰富的商品种类是百货商店最吸引人的特点之 一，而在伦敦的各大百货商店，只有想不到，没有买 不到。如今，一些零售商为了和电子平台抢夺顾客资 源才开始扩大商品种类，而和福南梅森等老牌百货 商店早在几百年前就这么做了。这家百货公司于 1707年由威廉•福南（William Fortnum）和休•梅 森（Hugh Mason）成立，起初贩售杂货和特产，后 来渐渐延伸到皮具、礼品和奢侈家居。其中让福南 梅森百货真正名声大噪的，是其丰富的餐饮选择， 这里的下午茶尤为出名。由女王伊丽莎白二世揭幕 的福南梅森钻禧茶室（Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon）是享用英式下午茶的经典去处。百货商店不 仅仅是购物场所，更是享受优质生活的所在。 塞尔福里奇百货亦是如此。1909年开业之初， 这栋如今看来依旧更像贵族府邸而非百货商店的艺 术学院派建筑坐拥令人咋舌的100个细分部门，更 有餐厅、屋顶花园、阅读室和写作室，给人以一种私 人俱乐部而非商店的体验，让品位卓绝的顾客们流 连忘返。美国籍创始人哈里•戈登•塞尔弗里奇 （Harry Gordon Selfridge）曾以其“零售剧院”概 念而名噪一时，他将零售业带上了全新的高度，而如 今他的宝贵遗产仍然在同名百货商店中传承。常变 常新的橱窗摆设便是最好的诠释，无论是与设计师 展开的合作还是不容错过的圣诞节装饰，缤纷的布 置和琳琅的商品一样引人入胜。 可以说，塞尔福里奇先生最大的遗产或许就是 其最早提出的著名的服务理论： “顾客即上帝。”这 句箴言在伦敦所有的知名百货商店里传承开来；例 如，哈罗德百货的拉丁文标语Omnia Omnibus Ubique翻译成中文即是“服务于为天下所有的顾 客”。每家百货公司都有一批经验丰富的专职员工， 无论是咖啡烹调还是定制服装，不管什么需求，他们 都会竭尽所能，为您寻找——彬彬有礼，面带微笑； 而这，就是赢得万千回头客的原因所在。
64: Perfect Gentleman 完美绅士 以制作男士正装而闻名的Paul Smith是英国最负盛 名的设计师之一。Stephen Doig与这位魅力超凡的 创意大师面对面
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参观Paul Smith爵士位于考文特花园（Covent Garden）的办公室能够帮助我们直观了解这位设计 师的独特思维。各式各样的书籍——一本本厚如花 岗岩的文选、传记、摄影集、时装选集、百科全 书——陈列在书柜上，组成一面背景墙。写字桌上 不时有书本滑落，窗台上也堆满了书。地板上胡乱放 着来自老古玩商店的玩具；折纸在空中随处悬挂；自 行车（办公室里共有17辆）倚靠在雕塑旁；一个两米 高的泡沫塑料iPod占据了大片空间。人们匆匆走过， 带动一些气球在空中轻轻浮动；黑胶唱片静静坐在 老式唱机边；彩色的动物陶瓷仿佛在一片混乱中探 头张望。Paul Smith的裁剪工作室犹如阿拉丁的藏 宝洞，放眼之处尽是让他兴趣盎然的各种小玩意和 收藏品。这里还有张办公桌，虽然找起来得花点儿 功夫。 “我是一个随性的人。如果看到一样能吸引我 眼球的东西，我一定会抵不住诱惑买下来， ”这位设 计师如是说道。 Smith不仅潇洒随性，还有着充沛的精力。 “我 早上6点就在这里了， ”他说道，这一点也不出乎意 料。Smith起得早是出了名的，他每天清早4、5点就 起床。他已经斩获大英帝国勋章，他的商业帝国也已 遍布全球，但他却从来没有丝毫松懈。最近，他意气 风发地出现在巴黎男装秀上，展示2017年春夏季系 列。 “一方面，我们得确保73个国家的顾客能够找到 合适的衬衫和西服，另一方面，我们举办了一场时装 秀，办时装秀费用很高，用12分钟告诉时装界我们的 新思路。可见我们的工作需要面面俱到。” 在英国时装业如日中天的时代，Smith的金字招 牌能够持久地屹立在业界顶峰，也可谓是一大奇迹。 他独辟蹊径，选择自立门户而不是与奢侈品巨头合 作，于1970年在诺丁汉开设了第一家小店铺。不久之 后，他便投身于男装剪裁，就此悄然引发了一场至今 仍有巨大影响力的变革：为男装增添一份轻松气 息。 “虽然不敢把我的小事业和他比，因为他的比我 大多了，但我可以这么说：在七十年代，意大利有 Giorgio Armani ，英国有Paul Smith，两个人都在 做些与众不同的事情：在经典西装中注入轻松元素， 改变服装廓形， ”Smith回忆道。 Smith一向热衷于骑自行车，他曾经梦想成为一 名自行车运动员。虽然后来选择了截然不同的职业 道路，但他依旧对体育竞技一往情深。对自行车的深 厚感情激发他在一年前开启了一个史无前例的裁剪 项目：适于旅行的西服（A Suit To Travel In）系 列。该系列的西装采用知名意大利面料制造商Loro Piana的高科技羊毛，充分考虑到穿着的轻便和灵 活，尤其适合办公场所。Smith以大胆用色的西装拓 宽新的一季。随着“运动休闲”一词红遍米兰和曼哈 顿，Smith此举可谓响应了风靡21世纪男装界的运 动奢侈风。为了展现这个系列的柔韧性，Smith邀请 运动员们登台亮相，让他们穿着西装做出跳跃、侧手
翻和撑杆跳的动作。 上个世纪七十年代的风格在这个季度大行其 道，而Paul Smith则经常从他刚刚踏入时尚界的那 些年头寻找灵感。 “如果你穿着一套七十年代的西 装，你不是要去应聘，就是要去参加婚礼或葬礼， ”他 评论道。 “但我们发现，更换内衬以及柔化服装轮廓 能够改变人们对西装的看法。八十年代初，年轻人开 始选择我设计的西装，一直延续至今到现在。如今 仍有顾客会在我们这里为他们的第一份工作或婚礼 选购西装——既有商人也有摇滚明星。我们的顾客 非常多元化，因为我们的西装穿起来非常舒服。” 毫无疑问，在秀场之外，Smith创建了一个坚固 且强大的商业帝国。 “我们的顾客来自73个国家。我 很喜欢混搭各种图案和印花，玩转色彩，但我们需 要找到一个平衡点。这就是跷跷板效应，秀台上展 示的是一件颜色鲜艳的西装，你同样可以购买到传 统配色的同款西装。”对于一个15岁就离开学校的 诺丁汉男孩而言，这是一番丰功伟绩。无论您是金 融城的银行家，还是准备人生第一场面试的毕业 生，Paul Smith的西服都是一个可靠而明智的选 择，让每一位穿着者感到安心。
100: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的30多万家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联 (Global Blue)获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻 找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联(Global Blue) 服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程：
1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 (Global Blue Tax Free Form),并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回国时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 的退税点领取您的退税款。 联系方式：
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费 £30即可节省高达购买价格14%的税。请 注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管 理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取 现金退税手续费。
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بكل لطف وابتسامة .ولهذا السبب تحديدا ً يعود الزبائن عليه – ّ إلى المتجر م ّر ًة تلو الخرى. Perfect Gentleman :64
رجل متأنّق مثالي ٌ
يشتهر Paul Smithبالبدلت الذي يخيطها وهو أحد أشهر المص ّممين في بريطانيا .يلتقي Stephen Doigهذا المبدع ال ُملفت بشخصيّته في مكتب السيد Paul Smithفي منطقة Covent Gardenتفاصيل بصرية تساعد على استيعاب طريقة تفكير كل أنواع الكتب – من مختارات تصطف على الرفوف ّ المص ّمم. ّ أدبية وسيَر ذاتية ومجلّدات صور فوتوغرافية وكتب أزياء وموسوعات وأعمال تبلغ سماكتها سماكة ألواح الغرانيت– فتؤلّف الحائط الخلفي .تراها مكدّسة على المكاتب وعتبات النوافذ. تتناثر على المسطّحات مجموعة ألعاب مثيرة للهتمام فيما كل مكان .في المكتب تتدلّى أوراق الوريغامي المطوية من ّ 17دراجة هوائية تسندها التماثيل وجهاز iPodطوله متران مصنوع من الستايروفوم .تتمايل مجموعة بالونات كلّما لمسها ما ّر وتُعرض مجموعة أسطوانات فينيل إلى جانب فونوغراف قديم وتبرز الحيوانات المصنوعة من السيراميك من بين الفوضى. المكتب أشبه بكهف علء الدين يروي مسيرة Paul Smithفي عالم الخياطة :يقدّم لمح ًة عن المور المختلفة والعابرة التي تثير اهتمامه .في الغرفة مكتب في مكانٍ ما ،لكن يصعب العثور عليه. يفسر المص ّمم قائلً“ :أنا شخص عفوي للغاية ،إن رأيت شيئاً لفت ّ انتباهي ل أقوى على مقاومة شرائه”. بالضافة إلى كون Smithعفوياً z ،ل تفارقه الطاقة أبدا ً. يقول“ :أنا هنا منذ السادسة صباحاً” ،وهذا طبيعي له على جميع المستويات .يُعرف عن Smithأنّه ينهض باكرا ً ويستقبل اليوم الجديد بين الرابعة والخامسة صباحاً .ونظرا ً لرتبته المبراطورية أي رغبة البريطانية وامبراطورتيه التي اجتاحت العالم ،ل يبدي ّ في التر ّوي .فبعد عرضه الخير في باريس للملبس الرجالية ،ها يفسر قائلً“ :نحرص هو يعرض مجموعة ربيع /صيف ّ .2017 على أن يتمكّن زبائننا في 73دول ًة في العالم من الحصول على القميص البيض المناسب والبدلة الزرقاء المثالية ،لكن من جهة عروض أزياء .يكلّفنا العرض أموالً طائلة ول نحظى إل أخرى ،نقيم َ بـ 12دقيقة لنثبت لعالم الزياء أنّنا نقدّم أفكارا ً جديدة .بالتالي، لطريقة عملنا وجهان”. أي فترة مضت على في وقت يشهد فيه العالم أكثر من ّ تميّز عالم الزياء البريطاني ،تجدر الشارة إلى المدّة الطويلة التي تصدّر فيها Smithمجاله .كما شكّل ظاهرة نادرة بالمحافظة على علمة تجارية مستقلّة وقاوم تكتّلت العلمات الفاخرة، مفتتحاً أ ّول متجر صغير له في Nottinghamعام .1970وما هي إل فترة قصيرة حتّى بدأ Smithخياطة الملبس الرجالية، فساهم في إطلق شرارة ثورة هادئة ل يزال صداها يتردّد اليوم: ثورة تبسيط خياطة الملبس الرجالية .يستذكر Smithقائلً“ :ل أريد مقارنة عملي بعمل ،Giorgio Armaniفأعماله أكبر بكثير ،لكن في السبعينيات عرف العالم أ ّن Giorgio Armani في إيطاليا و Paul Smithفي بريطانيا يقدّمان مفهوماً مختلفاً:
يبسطان البدلة التقليدية ويغيّران طريقة التفصيل الساسية”. ّ في حين تطغو موضة السبعينيات على هذا الموسم ،لطالما كان Paul Smithسباقاً منذ أن بدأ مسيرته في عالم الموضة. يشير قائلً “ :لو ارتديت بدلة في السبعينيات ،لكنت ذاهباً إلى مقابلة عمل أو لحضور زفاف أو جنازة .لك ّننا استدركنا أنّه بتغيير البطانة وتبسيط التفصيل يمكننا أن نغيّر نظرة الناس إلى البدلة. في بداية الثمانينيات ،بدأ الشباب ارتداء البدلت التي ص ّممتها واستم ّر ذلك حتى يومنا هذا .واليوم يقصدنا زبائن لختيار بدلت ل ّول عمل لهم أو لحفل زفافهم – وهم من رجال العمال ونجوم الموسيقى .قاعدة زبائننا متنوعة لنّنا نقدّم تصامي َم مريحةً”. المنصات والعروض ،من الواضح أ ّن Smith بعيدا ً عن ّ بنى علم ًة تجارية عظيمة وراسخة .يضيف قائلً“ :يقصدنا زبائننا من 73دولة في العالم .أس ّر عندما أمزج بين النقوش والرسوم وألعب باللوان ،لكن يجب أن أضمن التوازن .فالتأثير متأرجح. قد ترى بدلة بلون فاتح في العروض لكن يمكنك أن تحصل عليها بلون كلسيكي أيضاً ”.إنّه إنجاز رائع لبن Nottinghamالذي تخلّى عن الدراسة في س ّن الخامسة عشر .سواء كنت مصرفياً في المدينة أو خريجاً حديثاً يستع ّد لمقابلة العمل الولى ،كن على ثقة أ ّن أزياء Paul Smithرم ٌز للسلوب المميّز الذي يمكن التعويل عليه ويضمن راحة مرتديه. When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free :100
عندما تتس ّوق حول العالم ،تس ّوق من دون دفع الضريبة تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضريبة Tax Freeلتدّخر المال لدى تس ّوقك في أكثر من 300,000متجر في أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العالم. فل َم ل تنض ّم إلى الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون كل سنة؟ ما دفع الضريبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق الخاص أينما تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول على طلب استرداد الضريبة ّ بغلوبل بلو Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتف– باليصالت. .2أطلب في طريق العودة إلى وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجمارك عند نقطة المغادرة لتتم المصادقة على إيصالتك قبل قبض السترداد من الخاصة بنا. أحد مكاتب السترداد ّ للت ّصال:
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 أنفق ح ّدا ً أدنى قدر“ £30وادّخر حتّى 14%من ثمن مشترياتك.
يشمل مبلغ السترداد النهائي الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضريبة على القيمة المضافة ناقص رسم إداري .في بعض المطارات، يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي على كل طلب استرداد ضريبة في حال رغبت بالحصول على استرداد فوري نقدي. globalblue.com
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Retail Royalty :56
ملوكيّة المتاجر الكبرى
PHOTO: ANDREW MEREDITH
بعد قرون من النجا ،£باتت المتاجر الكبرى الرائدة في لندن مثال الرستقراطية في عالم البيع بالتجزئة ولم تتقلّص شهرتها قيد شعرة .تكتشف Hannah Lewisأسرار ديمومتها سنة ،2016احتفل Fenwickفي شارع Bond Street بالذكرى الـ 125لفتتا £أبوابه في عنوانه العريق في لندن .افتُتح المتجر سنة 1891ول يزال من بين الشهر في المدينة ويتمتّع بالحترام نفسه الذي حظي به في أولى سنوات نجاحه .ل تزال عائلة Fenwickتدير“ وبات يشكّل وجه ًة أساسية لعشّ اق الموضة في العاصمة البريطانية .تتوفّر في Fenwickالزياء ومستحضرات التجميل وعلجات السترخاء والمطاعم وغيرها وشكّل طوال 12عقدا ً أحد المج ّمعات التجاريّة المفضّ لة في المدينة. في حين ل يمكن للندن أن تدّعي أنّها المهد الساسي لهذا المتجر ،إل أنّها تجذب هذا النوع من المشاريع وتض ّم اليوم كل من تأسس ّ أشهرها في العالم .ل يُعتبر Fenwickأقدمها إذ ّ Harrodsو Libertyو Fortnum & Masonقبله وكان الخير قد افتتح أبوابه سنة .1707أ ّما ،Selfridgesورغم أنّه الحدث بين هذ“ المتاجر ،فيبهر ز ّوار“ منذ سنة .1909إذا ً ما سر صمود المتاجر الكبرى الرائدة في لندن؟ يشكّل صمود هذ“ المتاجر عاملً مغرياً .من واجهة متجر Libertyبالسلوب الهندسي Tudor revivalإلى هندسة Selfridgesبأسلوب ،Beaux Artsتُعتبر المباني التي تحوي هذ“ المتاجر مرآة لرثها .لذا فإ ّن المحافظة على هذ“ التصاميم التوسع فيها – كالدرج المتح ّرك المستوحى من مصر في أو حتّى ّ متجر -Harrodsتساهم في تعزيز هذا الشعور بالحنين .متى وطأت قدمكم هذ“ المحلت التجارية ،ستعيشون تجربة مماثلة تماماً لتلك التي عاشها زوار المتجر منذ 100عام أو أكثر. لكن بالطبع ،ل تقوم عوامل الجذب في هذ“ المتاجر على التقاليد فحسب ،فهي محبوبة لقدرتها على إقامة توازن بين العناصر الكلسيكية التي صمدت بوجه الزمن من جهة والعناصر الحديثة تماماً من جهة أخرى .فترى Libertyعلى سبيل المثال
ٍ متواصل لتحدّي التوقّعات واشتهر منذ إطلقه سنة مسعى في ً 1875بأفكار“ التقدّمية في مجال الزياء التي غالباً ما تكون بديلة .سنة ،1924انتقل المتجر إلى مبنى تاريخي مصغّر يذكّر بعصر تيودور وبات يض ّم مجموعة واسعة من المحلت التقليدية وغير المتوقّعة .يتولّى Murdock Londonإدارة صالون الحلقة في قسم الملبس الرجالية وهو أشهر الحلقين في العاصمة .وفي فصل الخريف ،ستفتتح علمة Maria Tashالتجارية لتصميم المجوهرات البديلة متجرا ً دائماً لها في Libertyبعد النجا £المد ّوي الذي حصل عليه متجرها المؤقّت. والمثير للهتمام أ ّن مفهوم المتجر قد يبدو تقليدياً إل أنّه يسمح بتغيير متواصل :إذ تُجرى فيه تغييرات صغيرة لكن مه ّمة للفصل بين القسام كلّما دعت الحاجة. تجذب المجموعات المتن ّوعة المعروضة في هذ“ كل ما المساحات الزبائن ،فيما تقدّم أشهر المتاجر في لندن ّ يخطر على البال .في حين شرعت المحلت الصغيرة للبيع بالتوسع في الخدمات التي تقدّمها مؤخرا ً في محاول ٍة بالتجزئة ّ لجذب الزبائن بعيدا ً عن التجارة اللكترونية ،كانت المؤسسات الكبيرة على غرار Fortnum & Masonقد بدأت بتقديم تأسس المتجر سنة هذ“ الخدمات المتنو ّعة منذ فترة طويلةّ . كل من William FortnumوHugh 1707على يد ّ ،Masonوشكّل في الساس متجرا ً لبيع البقالة وأطباق غذائية توسع تدريجياً ليقدّم خدمات أكثر – بما في ذلك ّ خاصة به .لك ّنه ّ بيع السلع الجلدية والهدايا والدوات المنزلية الفاخرة .لكن ما يميّز Fortnum & Masonهي مجموعة المطاعم الواسعة بمحل تقديم شاي بعد الظهر. خاص ًة ّ التي يقدّمها – ويشتهر ّ افتتحت فيه الملكة إليزابيث الثانية نفسها صالون Diamond Jubileeلحتساء الشاي ودائماً ما يُد َرج على لئحة الماكن التي ل ب ّد من زيارتها في لندن لحتساء الشاي بعد الظهر .ل يقتصر المتجر على سلسة محلت البيع بالتجزئة :بل يشكّل مكاناً مناسباً لقضاء وقت ممتع مع الحباء. ينطبق المر عينه على .Selfridgesعندما فتح المتجر أبوابه سنة ،1909ض ّم المبنى الرائع المشيّد بأسلوب Beaux –Artsالذي يبدو اليوم أشبه بمنزل أرستقراطي أكثر م ّما يبدو محل مثير للعجاب ،بالضافة إلى مطاعم وحديقة متجرا ً – ّ 100 مخصصة للقراءة والكتابة .يبدو وكأنّه نا ٍد على السطح وغرف ّ خاص أكثر منه متجرا ً ،ما يبعث السرور في قلوب الزبائن .يُعرف ّ مؤسسه الميركي Harry Gordon Selfridgeالتزا َمه عن ّ بـ”مسر £التجزئة” –وإحداثه تغييرا ً جذرياً في تجربة التس ّوق. وقد بقي إرثه حياً في المتجر الذي يحمل اسمه .أ ّما الواجهات المتغيّرة فتن ّم عن مزيج من التعاون بين المص ّممين وزينة ل تُف ّوت في موسم عيد الميلد وأصبحت اليوم تجذب المشترين بقدر ما تفعله المنتجات المعروضة فيها. لعل أشهر إرث خلّفه Harry Selfridgeهو النظريّة لكن ّ حق ”.تطبّق جميع الشهيرة التي أطلقها“ :الزبون دائماً على ّ متاجر لندن الشهيرة هذ“ الفلسفة .فشعار Harrodsاللتيني على سبيل المثال “ ”Omnia Omnibus Ubiqueيعني كل من المتاجر طاقم كل مكان ”.تض ّم ّ لكل الناس ،في ّ “كل شيءّ ، ّ موظّفين مطّلعين يلتزمون بتوفير أفضل خدمة زبائن ممكنة مهما المفصلة كان الطلب :بدءا ً بقهوة سريعة وصولً إلى الملبس ّ حسب الطلب .مهما كان طلبك ،سينطلق الطاقم في مه ّمة للعثور
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ل تفرقة في الجنس .ت ُعتبر النساء من بين أفضل الحرفيين في ترجمة باللغة العربيّة الصناعات حسب الطلب ،ويتمتّعن بالحترام على هذا الساس. بالطبع لم أدع هذا الواقع يعرقل مسيرتي يوماً ،ل بل شكّل لي Rising To The Top :48 ميز ًة لجذب الزبائن ”.ل ّ شك في أنّها تمكّنت من جذب زبائن اعتلء الق ّمة مرموقين :فقد استحال حذاء mary janesالمحبوك يدوياً لم تعد الحرف اليدوية الفاخرة حكرا ً على الرجال .ها هي Sallyباللون الوردي الفاتح حذاء Carine Roitfeldالمفضّ ل ،إذ انتعلته م ّرتَين في جلسات تصويرية لـ”. CR Fashion Book McIlhoneتتع ّرف إلى ثلث نساء من نخبة الحرفيات اللّواتي تواصلوا مع Grovesعبر موقعها اللكتروني لستشارتها بشأن بلغت مسيرتهن المهنيّة ذروتها مفصلة حسب الطلب. حذاء أو حقيبة ّ لو رغبتم في نوع مختلف من الكسسوارات ،ستلبّي أن تصنع اسماً لنفسك في عالم الفخامة في القرن الحادي ساعات Fiona Krügerالفاخرة الطلب وتأسركم .وقعت والعشرين لتح ّد جسيم ،حيث تظهر علمة تجارية جديدة على حب صناعة الساعات وهي ترتاد الساحة بوتيرة شبه يومية ويهيمن المص ّنعون الرجال على الجزء المص ّممة السكتلندية في ّ الجامعة للحصول على شهادة الماجستير بعد أن زارت متحف الكبر من الحرف اليدوية الفاخرة ما يجعل العتراف بمهارات نخبة المص ّنعات الستثنائيّة أكثر صعوبة .إل أ ّن الوضع بدأ يتبدّل Patek Philippe .ومصنع .Audemars Piguetتستذكر “ :Krügerخطرت لي فكرة مجوعتي Skullأثناء ورشة تحدّثنا إلى ثلث نساء يعملن في مجال الصناعات اليدوية ذات عمل ”.Audemars Piguetرغم أنّها عرضت التصميم على شق مساره ّن في عالم الجودة العالية لنكتشف كيف تم ّك ّن من ّ العلمة التجارية ولمست ر ّد فعل إيجابياً بشأنه ،بقيت التصاميم باتت تهيمن عليه الصناعة حسب الطلب. غير ُمن ّفذَة .بكل تأ ّن ورويّة ،ق ّررت Krügerأن تمضي بتنفيذ في شهر نيسان/أبريل ،2016استحالت Kathryn المشروع بنفسها“ .صنعت نموذجاً عاملً بمساعدة الساعاتي Sargentأ ّول خياطة تفتتح متجرا ً خاصا ً بها في Savile المستقل Peter Speake-Marinوشارك Max Büsserمن ّ .Rowظهر عشق Sargentلزياء الرجال ونما عندما كانت MB&Fفي لجنة تحكيم مشروع حصولي على الشهادة”. ترتاد جامعة تصميم الزياء فعملت لدى خياطَين مشهو َرين: بعد أن ظهرت الساعة في مد ّونات الموضة ،بدأت Denman & Goddardو Gieves & Hawkesوأصبحت Krügerتحصل على طلبات استفسار مشترين محتملين. مفصلة ملبس تعمل مع الخيرّ .أسست أعمالها التجارية أ ّول ّ تستذكر قائلةً“ :في ذلك الوقت علمت أ ّن مشروعي الجامعي لن الخاصة عام .2012وعلى الرغم من مواجهتها بعض التحدّيات، شكّل دخولها كامرأة في مجال يسيطر عليه الرجال ،تجربة إيجابية يقف عند هذا الح ّد وأمضيت عا َمين أحاول العثور على المز ّودين المناسبين وأعيد تطوير التصميم لطلق أخيرا ً القطع الولى في لها .تقول “ :Sargentلم تكن التجربة سهلةً ،فالعمل بح ّد ذاته نهاية سنة ”.2013 صعب من دون أن اضطر إلى التعامل مع المشاكل التي تطرأ سرعان ما جذبت فكرة الجمجمة ( )skullالناس إذ تربط بسبب جنسي .مع ذلك ،حصلت على دعم كبير وش ّجعني الزملء، تفسر قائلةً“ :اكتشفت أ ّن ساعات الجيب من رجال ونساء ،في مجتمع .Savile Rowوحصلت على دعم فكرة الوقت بالموتّ . على شكل جمجمة كانت شائعة في القرن السادس عشر وحصلت ل يُضاهى من زبائني الذين لطالما ش ّجعوا أعمالي”. Maryملكة اسكتلندا على إحدى أجمل هذه الساعات هديّ ًة غني عن الشرح حتّى ّأن العائلة الملكية ُ عمل ّ Sargent الخاصة من يوم لخطوبتها .أضفت إلى التصميم ذكرياتي تفسر ّ البريطانية كلّفتها بمهام من جملة شخصيات بارزة أخرىّ . الموتى في المكسيك وحبّي لليّات حركة الساعات ،فأبصر “أحب أن آخذ زبائني في رحلة نبدأ فيها بمناقشة الفكرة قائلةً: ّ التصميم النور”. الساسية ونمضي حتّى صناعة اللباس كاملً .ويكمن جزئي تقول Krügerإ ّن تجربتها كامرأة في عالم صناعة المفضّ ل في رؤية الزبائن يتمتّعون بهذه الرحلة المص ّممة حسب الساعات كانت في البداية “غريب ًة و ُمخيفة” إل أنّها نجحت. طلبهم وأنا على يقين أنّهم سيقدّرون هذه الزياء للسنوات تستخلص قائلةً “ :استنتجت أ ّن إحاطتي بالرجال صبّت في كل عيب وأُخيطت في المقبلة ”.للحصول على قطعة خالية من ّ مصلحتي ،فمن وجهة نظر تجارية ،قد تخاف أولً لنّك شا –ذ في ،Savile Rowل ب ّد من زيارة متجر Kathryn Sargent المجال نوعاً ما ،إل أ ّن هذا الواقع يساعدك في ما بعد فيبدأ لستشارة سريعة. الناس بملحظتك وهذا مه ّم جدا ً ”.واليوم تُباع ساعاتها في متى انتهيتم من طلب الملبس الرائعة المص ّممة حسب متاجر .Harrods الطلب ،ستحتاجون إلى حذاء يتماشى معها وت ُعتبر Caroline أثبتت النساء وجوده ّن في الصناعات الحرفية كافّة ،من Grovesالمرأة المثالية لصنعه .ترعرعت Grovesفي عائلة الخياطة إلى الحذية مرورا ً بصناعة الساعات ،واحتلّت أعلى حرفيين وط ّورت ميلً لستخدام الجلد .تشرح قائلةً“ :في أوائل المراكز .فبات واضحاً أ ّن المراكز العليا قادرة على استيعاب عشريناتي التقيت صانع أحذية يحتاج إلى خاتم –أي شخص الجميع في عالم الفخامة. يع ّد ويخيط جزء الحذاء العلوي ”.بعد أن تد ّربت على يد صانع الحذية وعملت معه طوال 15عاماًّ ،أسست Grovesشركتها الخاصة عام .2003 لمعت Grovesفي مجالها ،شأنها شأن Kathryn .Sargentتؤكّد قائلةً“ :لقد استحالت الحرف اليوم ديمقراطية جدا ً وطالما أ ّن الحرفي يبدي شغفاً واحتراماً ويصبو إلى المتياز، globalblue.com
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ROYAL STANDARD Few brands can match the historic royal affiliations of the Creed perfume house, which has supplied many of the imperial families of Europe during its 255-year history. Today Creed still produces exquisitely high-quality fragrances. Rose Impériale, the latest addition to its range, combines top notes of Calabrian bergamot, Bulgarian rose, white iris and angelica; base notes include tuberose and pink pepper. Rose has for centuries been a favourite for its sumptuous scent; the new Creed Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 100
interpretation of its fragrance was created by master perfumer Olivier Creed, from the sixth generation of the Creed family to run the business. It celebrates the charismatic monarchs of the past, including Empress Joséphine of France, who was known for her love of roses. Creed Rose Impériale would make a luxurious and distinctive gift for perfume lovers of all ages. dw Creed Rose Impériale perfume, 75ml, £350, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, creedfragrances.co.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 93