SHOP London Lux AW17

LONDON | 伦敦 | ЛОНДОН |

LONDON Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2017/18

EXPLORE LONDON: discover the luxury boutiques and chic sights of the British capital

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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens & Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen 捷克 Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera ‫أملانيا‬ 德国 Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Helsinki Area

Welcome to London

Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Oslo Paris 巴黎 Portugal Prague Rome SE Finland Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Чехия

Emma Cheevers /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue

@环球蓝联-Globalblue

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this diverse, vibrant capital city. London has much to offer, as our guide on page 62 reveals. Readers who appreciate high-end design will enjoy our feature on the names to know in the city’s bespoke jewellery scene (page 42), and in this issue we also explore the past, present and future of Savile Row, London’s celebrated hub of fine tailoring (page 48).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14% when shopping in the UK. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in London. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without filling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

LO N D O N LO N D O N

194 - 195 S LO A N E ST R E E T

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CONTRIBUTORS

Ruairidh Pritchard Ruairidh Pritchard, Global Blue’s commercial editor, studied journalism in Glasgow, where he was editor of his university’s awardwinning magazine for two years. He writes about fashion, art and culture for a variety of publications and websites in his spare time. globalblue.com

Hannah Lewis Hannah Lewis, SHOP’s features editor, holds degrees from both the University of Oxford and the London College of Fashion. She has written for a number of international publications, including Time Out in Dubai, Quintessentially in London and Prestige in Hong Kong.

Aaron Carline Graphic designer Aaron Carline, a senior artworker at SHOP, is passionate about editorial design and zine culture. In his spare time he can often be found in vintage clothing stores searching for rare finds, watching David Lynch films or listening to 1990s hip hop.

ILLUSTRATION: TELEGRAMME; PHOTOS: (LEFT) MICHAEL CHAPMAN; (MIDDLE) KATIE WILSON ELL; (RIGHT) GRACE BIRD

Telegramme Telegramme design studio, founded by Bobby Evans, created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP London Luxury. Bobby’s distinctive artwork has previously been commissioned by Penguin, Vodafone and Condé Nast, among others. His unique vintage style makes him a perfect choice for this cover, which shows a reflection of the London skyline cleverly made up of luxury products.

Discover SHOP London Luxury and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Telegramme Contributor Maria Kirchen-Hill Acting production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion and lifestyle writer Rebecca Rhys-Evans

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy

News editor Ginger Rose Clark

Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Hayley Moseley Artworking assistants Shirley Lau, Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Acting online managing editor Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener Human resources and office assistant Anjali Kapoor

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistant Inga Abramian Marketing intern Joanna Dodge

GLOBA L BLU E U K UK managing director Gordon Clark Sales manager – head of key accounts Peter Blake Sales manager – head of accounts Sarah Bubien UK marketing sales manager Kimberly Urbaniak Marketing account manager Patrick Prior Head of acquiring Massi Maier Global key account managers Richard Harvey, Nikhita Hyett Key account managers Leonie Adams, Ramesh Juneja, Jerry Junkere, Massi Maier, Victoria Taylor Account managers Dianeth Cedeno-Gonzalez, Enda Griffin, Holly Kippin, Marisa Sanchez, Dezelle Villanueva Global Blue UK, 11th f loor, GW2, Great West House, Great West Road, Brentford TW8 9HU, UK +44 (0)20 8232 1900 Regional tourist office Visit Britain London and Partners Advertising enquiries Contact Patrick Prior: pprior@globalblue.com

Digital production assistant Linda Hau Production assistant Chris Bigg Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing manager Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. © 2017 Global Blue

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CONTENTS PAGE

PAGE

52

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PRODUCTS 16

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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from London this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of the city’s best dressed during London Fashion Week

NEWS 26

Shop Window One store not to be missed in London

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36

News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products In Store… …with Cutler & Gross design director Marie Wilkinson in the eyewear brand’s Knightsbridge boutique

FEATURES 42

One Of A Kind Behind closed doors, London’s leading jewellers are working with their clients to make beautiful bespoke pieces, as Ruairidh Pritchard discovers

48

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A Cut Above Savile Row may be known for its history of great tailoring, but its residents have their sights set firmly on the future, says Maria Kirchen-Hill To The Power Of Two From punk rock fashion to political activism, Vivienne Westwood has been an icon of British culture for over 40 years.

As her husband and design partner Andreas Kronthaler steps into the spotlight, Hannah Lewis takes a look at fashion’s coolest couple

Above (from left): Bump vases by Tom Dixon; Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood autumn/winter 2017/18

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CONTENTS EXPERIENCE

ESSENTIALS

58

82

Table Talk Dining is always elevated by a spectacular view and these London restaurants have some of the best, says Sally McIlhone

GUIDE 62

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of London, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

PAGE

58

TRANSLATIONS 83 87 95

中文翻译

Русский Перевод

‫ترجمة باللّغة العربيّة‬

SOUVENIR 96

The essential item to bring home

E NGL IS H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE...

Погрузитесь в мир роскошного шоппинга и увлекательных путешествий, посетив наш обновлённый сайт – globalblue.ru 访问我们近日新版上线的网站 globalblue.cn, 了解最新奢华购 物旅游信息，每日更新 FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue @shopmagazine_

Above: Bōkan restaurant serves up striking city views as well as excellent food

PHOTOS: (BOTTOM) MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT; (TOP) ABACAPRESS/DIDIER DELMAS

Visit globalblue.com, our recently relaunched website, for the latest luxury shopping and travel stories, updated daily

27 BRUTON STREET, LONDON, W1J 6QN 6-7 COLVILLE MEWS, LONSDALE ROAD, LONDON W11 2DA

WWW.TEMPERLEYLONDON.COM

CH ECK OUT

CATCH A RAINBOW When the long cold days of winter set in, there is no better antidote than an unashamedly cheerful accessory. The Paperchain incarnation of Anya Hindmarch’s classic Vere satchel, inspired by traditional festive decorations and bright pops of spectral colours, is just the thing to

drive the dark seasonal clouds away. The mini design is best carried as a clutch to let the strap really stand out.

Wear yours with neutral shades such as an elegant camel evening coat or with straight-leg blue denim to spruce up a daytime look.

Anya Hindmarch’s autumn/ winter 2017/18 collection uses traditional leather craft

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

techniques juxtaposed with modern materials and finishes for a result that is nothing if not desirable. lt Anya Hindmarch Paperchain Mini Vere bag, £1,095, Anya Hindmarch, 118 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EW, +44 (0)20 7493 1628, anyahindmarch.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 69

#BoggiGentlemanStyle

A GENTLEMAN DOES NOT TALK. JUST ACT. - Rule 67 -

boggi.com

LONDON | 49 Jermyn Street | Tel. +44 20 7629.24.95 | 28 Sloane Square | Tel. +44 20 7823.50.44

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ANIMAL INSTINCTS

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Fluttering insects, remarkable mammals and mysterious sea creatures meet precious stones for a jaunty jewellery update 1

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1. Annoushka ring, £7,200, Annoushka, 1 South Molton Street, London W1K 5QF, +44 (0)20 7629 8233, annoushka.com

4. Theo Fennel 18-carat yellow gold and orange sapphire Crab brooch, price on request, Theo Fennell, 169 Fulham Road, London SW3 6SP, +44 (0)20 7591 5000, theofennell.com

6. Bee Goddess hand bracelet, £2,920, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, beegoddess.com

2. Cartier Panthère de Cartier cuff links, £31,400, Cartier, 175-177 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RN, +44 (0)20 7408 5700, cartier.com

5. Yvonne Léon ring, £1,881, Browns, 24-27 South Molton Street, London W1K 5RD, +44 (0)20 7514 0016, yvonneleon.com

7. Stone Paris Sleeping Beauty ear cuffs, £1,150 each, Dover Street Market, 18-22 Haymarket, London SW1Y 4DG, +44 (0)20 7518 0680, stoneparis.com

3. Delfina Delettrez bangle, £2,090, Delfina Delettrez, 109 Mount Street, London W1K 2TR, +44 (0)20 7629 5550, delfinadelettrez.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

PHOTOS: (3) DELETTREZ; (5) PRESTIGE PACKSHOT

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ROSE TINTED Mix shades of pink and purple with chic metallic details for a daytime look that’s sure to delight

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1. Ray-Ban sunglasses, £188, Sunglass Hut, 15 James Street, London WC2E 8BU, +44 (0)20 7420 9330, ray-ban.com

3. Gucci scarf, £280, Gucci, 34 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4QL, +44 (0)20 7629 2716, gucci.com

2. Dolce & Gabbana lipstick, £25, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, dolceandgabbana.com

4. Moncler jacket, £850, Moncler, 26 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4QD, +44 (0)20 3876 1960, moncler.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

5. Diane Kordas Explosion hoop earrings, £2,220, Matches Fashion, 87 Marylebone High Street, London W1U 4QU, +44 (0)20 7487 5400, dianekordasjewellery.com

PHOTOS: (1) ELISABETTA MARES; (2) ORIS-SERVICE; (5) ANGELA KANE

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6. Bulgari handbag, £2,210, Bulgari, 168 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RE, +44 (0)20 7872 9969, bulgari.com

8. Messika Move Romane double ring, £7,246, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, messika.com

7. Escada skirt, £870, Escada, 194-195 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QX, +44 (0)20 7245 9800, escada.com

9. Charlotte Tilbury Contour Wand, £29, Charlotte Tilbury, 11-12 James Street, London WC2E 8BT, +44 (0)20 3846 9469, charlottetilbury.com

globalblue.com

10. Church’s boots, £420, Church’s, 163 New Bond Street, London W1S 2UQ, +44 (0)20 7499 9449, church-footwear.com

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EARTHY TONES Wrap up in a smart suede aviator jacket and add quirky khaki accessories for a stylish winter look 1

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3. Auerbach & Steele eyewear, £295, Auerbach & Steele, 129 King’s Road, London SW3 4PW, +44 (0)20 7349 0001, auerbach-steele.com

2. Furla pouch, £145, Furla, 71-73 Brompton Road, London SW3 1DB, +44 (0)20 7581 6942, furla.com

4. Comme des Garçons Calamus eau de toilette, 50ml, £70, Dover Street Market, 18-22 Haymarket, London SW1Y 4DG, +44 (0)20 7518 0680, commedesgarcons.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

5. Tod’s boots, £550, Tod’s, 2-5 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4PE, +44 (0)20 7493 2237, tods.com

PHOTO: (4) DALIM

1. Belstaff jacket, £1,795, Belstaff, 135-137 New Bond Street, London W1S 2TQ, +44 (0)20 7495 5897, belstaff.co.uk

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STREET ST YLE

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

Casual got seriously cool at this season’s London Fashion Week. Understated bomber jackets and frayed denim jeans were ramped up with prints that popped, daring designer bags and shirting that meant business

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

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globalblue.com

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SHOP WINDOW

DAPPER DRAKE’S Drake’s flagship in London recently underwent renovation to reveal an improved new retail space. The store’s interiors are befitting of the brand’s identity: armchairs upholstered in Harris tweed, wooden floors, and cabinets from the Natural History Museum, not to mention art

by Benjamin Deakin, give character to the decor. The revamped store now also offers a made-to-order service, allowing customers to have ties or shirts made to their exact specification.

Drake’s creates apparel, shirts, ties and accessories for men: the brand is

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

headquartered in London, while the shirts and ties are made by hand in its London and Somerset workshops. grc Drake’s, 3 Clifford Street, London W1S 2LF, +44 (0)20 7734 2367, drakes.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 70

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DESIGN LAB Bump is the latest collection of home accessories from leading London design brand Tom Dixon, whose eponymous founder holds an OBE for services to British design. Aiming to elevate the everyday rituals – and instruments – of drinking and hosting, the collection features vases, jugs, glasses and a tea set, all delicately handmade. The range is inspired by laboratory apparatus, resulting in minimalist yet striking shapes which are softened by a subtle colour scheme of pink and grey. Made from borosilicate, a heat-resistant glass used in laboratories, each piece has been hand-blown into an engineered graphite mould, to truly striking effect. hl Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, liberty.co.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 71

BRIGHT IDEAS If you’re looking for statement seasonal pieces for autumn/winter, look no further than Missoni’s inspirational knitwear. In an exploration of modern femininity, creative director Angela Missoni presents a collection full of personality.

Geometric patterns, be it stripes, checks or zigzags, recur throughout the collection. Cardigans, coats, dresses and tailoring are worn with heeled boots, such as the eye-catching style seen here (£685), multi-coloured necklaces, wool hats and leather gloves. Missoni’s warm hues and lamé melanges are guaranteed to brighten up the winter months. grc Missoni, 193 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QX, +44 (0)20 7823 1910, missoni.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 74

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

77 NEW BOND STREET, LONDON W1S 1RY TEL: 020 7629 8983 Monday – Saturday 10am to 6pm and Sunday 12noon to 6pm

CASHMERE & FINE WOOLLENS MADE IN SCOTLAND JOHNSTONSCASHMERE.COM

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GOLDEN TOUCH Luxury perfume house Ormonde Jayne’s latest scent, White Gold, completes its Gold Trilogy. White jasmine absolute is at the centre of this new fragrance, with top notes of pink pepper, mandarin and bergamot on a base that includes Madagascan vanilla, cashmeran and white musk. Available in two sizes, 50ml (£260) or 120ml (£345), the fragrance also comes in a matt white bottle, exclusive to Selfridges.

Ormonde Jayne makes a point of using oils not commonly found in fragrances to create elegant perfumes in the brand’s London laboratory. grc Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), ormondejayne.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 68

TRAVEL COMPANIONS Launched in April 2017, LONB London is a new luxury concept offering leather goods designed for the frequent traveller. The range includes everything you could need for your trip, from day bags to overnight bags, wallets and pouches. The brand aesthetic is sleek and elegant with a touch of 1960s style, and each piece is crafted in Italy from the finest materials, such as calfskin, buffalo and crocodile leather. The signature item is the Runaway, a small clutch with compartments to hold all the essentials, including your phone, keys, wallet and passport, which also clips into the back of all of the brand’s larger bags.

Discover the range at the newly opened flagship in Mayfair, a stylish space that also houses a relaxed bar where visitors are invited to share travel tales over a drink. hl LONB London, 59 South Audley Street, London W1K 2QN, +44 (0)20 3598 7950, lonb.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 68

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

S H O P | 31

STARTING POINT Berluti’s autumn/winter 2017/18 collection marks the debut of new creative director Haider Ackermann. The idea of items developing over time, ageing into lasting garments with sentimental value, is intrinsic to the designer’s inaugural offering for the Italian heritage menswear brand. Key wardrobe staples with a cool twist are the star attractions: a black leather aviator jacket with red crocodile skin lapels and lining, a neat suede jacket in dark lilac, velvet tuxedos and cashmere knits. Every piece is timeless in its design, but refreshingly modern in its cut, colour and styling. rre Berluti, 43 Conduit Street, London W1S 2YJ, +44 (0)20 7437 1740, berluti.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 70

ON THE CASE

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) OLI SMITH/GLOBE-TROTTER SUITCASE CO

In 2017 British luxury travel brand Globe-Trotter celebrated its 120th anniversary, so it seems fitting that the autumn/winter collection takes inspiration from the company’s original factory building on London’s St John Street. Designer Charlotte Seddon’s creations reimagine details of the beautiful Victorian brick façade through embroidery, appliqué and patterned linings paired with warm hues such as mustard and aubergine. All the suitcases, bags and small leather goods, including the pictured memory case (£795), are handcrafted by the brand’s experts in Hertfordshire. js Globe-Trotter, 35 Albemarle Street, London W1S 4JD, +44 (0)20 7529 5950, globe-trotter.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 70

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HIGHLAND FLING British brand Mackintosh has teamed up with London-based label Le Kilt on a 10-piece capsule collection for autumn/ winter 2017/18. Since its founding in 2014, Le Kilt has focused on updating its founder’s family kilt-making heritage and is inspired heavily by British subcultures. Drawing on 1960s mods, the new collection includes coats, skirts, dresses and jackets (from £535), all made by hand in Mackintosh’s Scottish factory. Find pieces with distinctly 60s details, such as large round buttons, houndstooth pinafores and belted jackets made with the signature Mackintosh rubberised waterproof fabric. rre Mackintosh, 19 Conduit Street, London W1S 2BH, +44 (0)20 7493 4667, mackintosh.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 70

COOLER SHAKERS British heritage brand Asprey has been known for its luxury products, spanning leather, silver and crystal, since it was founded in 1781, and has held a Royal Warrant ever since Queen Victoria’s reign. Recent additions to its range of covetable items include these Bobsleigh sterling silver salt and pepper shakers (£5,750). Topped with helmets featuring black and white enamelled visors, the shakers sit on an ebony base within the bobsleigh.

Made in Asprey’s London workshops, this piece is an excellent example of the brand’s craftsmanship and will make an eye-catching addition to your dinner table. grc

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

Asprey, 167 New Bond Street, London W1S 4AY, +44 (0)20 7493 6767, asprey.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 69

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COVETABLE CASHMERE Johnstons of Elgin, a Scottish cashmere manufacturer with one of the oldest working wool mills in the UK, celebrates its 220th anniversary in 2017. Not surprisingly, this illustrious heritage is at the heart of the brand’s ethos, which is focused on the production of timeless cashmere and fine wool fabric, clothing and accessories to the highest possible standards. For autumn/winter 2017/18, the collection includes tailored check outerwear and cosy high-neck knits in a range of warm autumnal tones including tan, beige and camel as well as black. rre Johnstons of Elgin, 77 New Bond Street, London W1S 1RY, +44 (0)20 7629 8983, johnstonscashmere.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 69

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) DAN SIMS/BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL

JOIN THE FRONT ROW Front-row seats are normally kept for celebrities and industry insiders, but London Fashion Week Festival allows all fashion lovers to experience the glamour of the catwalk. This exciting event takes place in February and September. It gives visitors the opportunity to attend shows that highlight new-season collections and to shop the latest from British and international designers – at exclusive prices. After talks from industry experts such as designers Ashish and Alice Temperley, let beauty professionals give you a mini-makeover with the latest hairstyles and make-up trends. If you want a first-class experience, opt for the Luxe or Luxe Premium packages. Book online to enjoy seats on the front row and complimentary prosecco and canapés – you’ll also receive a limited-edition gift bag. rre The Store Studios, 180 The Strand, London WC2R 1EA, londonfashionweekfestival.com globalblue.com

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A THING OF BEAUTY Beauty enthusiasts will be delighted to hear that Victoria Beckham and Estée Lauder have returned with a second make-up collection for autumn/winter, following the initial success of their first collaboration. This will see the comeback of 10 hero products as well as 18 new products and two limited-edition sets. New products include a skin-perfecting powder, a smudgy matte eyeliner in graphite, an eye palette using a pressed gel-cream formula and

SEE THE LIGHT Three years after his 10th and final collection under his own name, Dominic Jones has joined luxury jewellery brand Astley Clarke as its new creative director. Using the natural world as a main source of inspiration, his Phototaxis collection, as modelled by Georgia May Jagger, is influenced by British moths and their attraction to light. With handcrafting being a central ideal to Jones’s method of work, pieces feature glass enamelling and hand-painted gold to give a gradient effect with the diamonds. The other two collections, Astronomy and Colour of Calder, introduce semi-precious stones and a mix of metals to create visionary pieces that revolve around the theme of light and experimental colour. rre Astley Clarke, 6 Junction Mews, London W2 1PN, +44 (0)20 7706 0060, astleyclarke.com Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

a highly pigmented matte lipstick in three different shades. The collection is inspired

by Victoria Beckham’s favourite cities, including London. grc Victoria Beckham, 36 Dover Street, London W1S 4NH, +44 (0)20 7042 0700, victoriabeckham.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 69

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IN THE ZONE The area around King’s Cross has been undergoing major redevelopment in recent years, with a whole host of new restaurants, galleries and boutiques opening up. Among the new openings is 18Montrose, which has branches in Glasgow and Nottingham, and has set up shop on Stable Street just a stone’s throw from King’s Cross and St Pancras stations. Designed to be a crossover between an events and retail space, it carries clothing,

PHOTO: (TOP) LUKE DYSON

DEAL US IN British designer Alexandra Llewellyn has introduced a new addition to her portfolio of games tables and boards. A trip to Las Vegas served as the inspiration for the new poker box (£11,520), of which only 15 have been produced. Made using more than a thousand pieces of wood – including 4,000-year-old bog oak – and traditional marquetry methods, the box is adorned with an elegant skull design which is finished with the piece’s edition number. The beautiful box also contains 500 custom-made clay poker chips, a black marble and brass dealer button, engraved mother-ofpearl blind buttons and playing cards by Kem. Llewellyn’s designs can be personalised and she also takes on one-off commissions. grc Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, alexandralldesign.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73

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footwear, accessories and design objects spread across three distinct zones. Look out for fashion and lifestyle brands from across the world, including Shinola, Norse Projects, Maison Kitsuné, Rick Owens, Stone Island and Aesop. grc 18Montrose, 6-8 Stable Street, London N1C 4AB, +44 (0)20 3805 5451, 18montrose.com

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IN STORE: CUTLER AND GROSS British luxury eyewear brand Cutler and Gross, founded in 1969 by Graham Cutler and Tony Gross, is known for its handcrafted heritage and one-of-a-kind pieces.

Design director Marie Wilkinson has been part of the company for over 30 years, and her creations are inspired by the label’s archive as well as the work of various architects. She spoke to Fani Mari about the Knightsbridge store and the brand’s long history

‘Back in 1981, I was inspired by Tony Gross and Graham Cutler’s desire to change the perception of glasses from being a medical necessity to a fashion accessory. The possibility of customising and commissioning bespoke frames was thrilling, and knowing the people who would make each pair individually by hand was very special.

‘The brand has developed under the close supervision of its founders, always driving to innovate and create beautifully designed, handmade frames. As ambassadors of handmade eyewear, it was important for them to share this love and knowledge through their own eight stores around the world and via prominent optical and fashion stores. The toughest challenge has been to satisfy demand.

Buying the company’s own factory [in Cadore in northern Italy] in 2008 has been a liberating and empowering experience.

‘Cutler and Gross has established itself as a brand with a bold, independent spirit, leading the way by inspiring clients to experiment with new and unique designs rather than simply following mass-market trends. We have spearheaded the revival of handmade eyewear and beautiful craftsmanship, and want to make both ready-to-wear and bespoke glasses accessible to anyone with the taste and imagination.

‘The Knightsbridge store has been open since 1971 when Graham Cutler discovered this former wig shop, tucked away in a discreet and smart street near Harrods, which was for sale. At the time, opticians were clustered Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

around Harley Street, but Cutler and Gross were optometrists themselves and didn’t need to rely on prescriptions from doctors. They wanted to be near the international fashion crowd in Knightsbridge.

‘The current design is only the third in the store’s history. It was originally created by architect Piers Gough and later Tom Bartlett, who are hard acts to follow. As we have our own factory, we also have our own in-house design and architectural office where we are able to conceive the look of the interior ourselves. Our architect is very interested in Patrik Schumacher’s parametricism [an avant-garde architectural style], which has led to an inspiring way of displaying the glasses.

The original eye-examination room created by Gough in 1969 remains unaltered, though.

‘In terms of products, Cutler and Gross is best defined by the bold design, exquisite craftsmanship and finest materials that are found in all the brand’s frames. As a taster, we use the best cotton-based acetate, and certain styles feature hypo-allergenic ceramic nose pads, as well as gold and ruthenium platings.

‘Our latest collection includes a mixture of entirely new designs that we expect to become modern classics, as well as a selection of some bestselling frames from the archive that have been reinterpreted with improved fit, manufacture and new lens technology.’

Cutler and Gross, 16 Knightsbridge Green, London SW1X 7QL, +44 (0)20 7581 2250, cutlerandgross.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73

PHOTO: FANI MARI AND XIMENA DANERI

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FENWICK: BOND STREET KITCHEN

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enwick on New Bond Street has long been one of London’s most exclusive shopping destinations, and its appeal has just got even stronger with the opening of new in-house eatery Bond Street Kitchen. The world-famous department store is known for its refined elegance and elevated service, and the same can be expected from this exciting new foodie venture. In the heart of bustling Mayfair, the restaurant offers a relaxed yet vibrant atmosphere, making it the perfect place to take a break from a busy day of shopping at the area’s array of high-end boutiques as well as Fenwick’s meticulously curated selection of fashion, beauty and accessories.

Every item and ingredient on the Bond Street Kitchen menu has been as carefully selected as Fenwick’s retail offerings.

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

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PHOTOS: © MÓNICA R. GOYA

Local, seasonal ingredients form the base of delicious modern British dishes Local, seasonal ingredients form the base of delicious modern British dishes, executed to perfection and beautifully presented. Brunch, lunch and afternoon tea menus are available, and might include anything from beetroot cured salmon or charcuterie to cheese boards or the ever-popular lamb salad. Look out for the signature BSK club sandwich, a divine medley of chicken, crayfish and chorizo. The wine list is also excellent, so be sure to ask the friendly staff for the best pairing for your meal. All in all, it is a delicious addition to one of London’s best loved institutions.

Bond Street Kitchen, Fenwick, 63 New Bond Street, London W1S 1RQ, +44 (0)20 7629 9161, fenwick.co.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 69

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ONE OF A KIND Behind closed doors, London’s leading jewellers are working with their clients to make beautiful bespoke pieces, as Ruairidh Pritchard discovers Left: jewellery designer Jessica McCormack

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L

ondon is one of the best places in the world by far to buy jewellery.

From the established diamond district of Hatton Garden to the glittering storefronts of Old Bond Street, clients are spoilt for choice. And above the bustling shopping streets and away from the glare of the diamond-festooned display windows, London’s leading goldsmiths are offering bespoke services that take jewellery shopping in the city to unparalleled levels of luxury.

New Zealand-born Jessica McCormack is one of the top jewellers in Mayfair. She’s known for such imaginative creations as her bespoke Party Jackets: rings designed to sit around an existing piece, transforming and elevating the original. At her stunning artfilled Carlos Place townhouse, which she and her team refer to simply as ‘the house’, the

PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT) ACCOOPER NEG & PRINT; (CENTRE) JASPER “YOGI” GOUGH; (TOP RIGHT) RICHARD DAVID GREEN

AT JESSICA MCCORMACK’S STUNNING ART-FILLED CARLOS PLACE TOWNHOUSE, THE SALON SHOWCASES THE STUNNING SEASONAL COLLECTIONS, INCLUDING CHI CHI, INSPIRED BY THE ANCIENT CHINESE METHOD OF FORTUNE TELLING, AND TRIP THE LIGHT FANTASTIC

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Above (from top): Trip the Light Fantastic pendant; Chi Chi necklace; diamond and ruby Party Jacket ring set, all Jessica McCormack; the brand’s townhouse

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highly skilled goldsmiths have their workshop on the lower ground floor. The salon occupies the ground and first floors, and showcases her stunning seasonal collections, including Chi Chi, a collection inspired by the ancient Chinese method of fortune telling, and Trip The Light Fantastic, a glamorous collection of diamond earrings, cuffs, necklaces and rings that move with the wearer, creating an almost hypnotic sparkle.

McCormack also offers a comprehensive bespoke service, working directly with clients looking to create a piece of truly individual jewellery. ‘When working on a bespoke piece I like to spend time getting to know my client

personally by sitting with them in our library, discussing their likes, dislikes and getting to know their style,’ explains McCormack of the process.

‘I then spend some time translating their personal story into lots of hand-drawn sketches, while I work out the final perfect design.’

The process is tailored to each person as much as the jewellery is. ‘The degree of contact with clients varies with each individual. I’ve had clients that like to be involved at every stage whereas others prefer to await the final piece.

It’s such a personal journey for each client,’ she says.

On the other side of London, in the city’s trendy East End, jewellery designer

Ana de Costa works on bespoke pieces for a variety of discerning clients. After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2005, de Costa worked for Shaun Leane, renowned for designing catwalk pieces for Alexander McQueen, and costume jeweller Erickson Beamon, before opening her own by-appointment-only atelier.

‘Bespoke jewellery and fine jewellery as a whole is a very emotional and personal purchase and I like to take my time with all of my private clients,’ explains de Costa.

‘We discuss initial ideas and the budgets involved as this will form the basis of my initial research into stones and concepts,’ she

Above (clockwise from left): Ana de Costa sketching designs; two of her bespoke rings; ring components in the atelier

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continues. In-depth research and an easy understanding of customers’ desires make de Costa stand out. One of her recent bespoke pieces, for example, was an engagement ring for a London-based client.

The design featured precious stones that were sourced by de Costa from the bride-tobe’s hometown in Russia. As with McCormack, the whole process from start to finish is tailored to the client. ‘Once the making process is started I have regular conversations with clients to update them on progress and, depending on preference, I send progress shots. However, I have found that a lot of my clients prefer the surprise of seeing the piece at the end.’

Sabine Getty is another of London’s leading jewellers.

Her most recent collection, Baby Memphis, follows on from the opulent Memphis collection, but bears the hallmarks of her experiences as a new mother. Featuring a wide range of colourful stones, the collection comprises stackable rings and bracelets, and easy-to-combine earrings and necklaces, all of which give endless potential for a host of different looks.

Getty provides a bespoke service to some of the city’s most discerning jewellery lovers, a process that is often sparked by a client’s reaction to her existing designs.

‘After a collection comes out I usually get requests for a

Above (all): Sabine Getty Baby Memphis collection

piece that is similar in design but using different stones or using the customer’s stones,’ she explains. When it comes to creating a unique piece, she says, ‘it takes observation and time. One has to listen to what the customer is trying to convey and what they really want. I speak to them many times throughout the process, but it is usually in our first meeting that I get a complete sense of what is desired.’

And it’s seeing the client finally receive their desired pieces that Getty enjoys the most. ‘The most rewarding thing is to see that our client feels they have something special: a piece of jewellery that is made for them and matches their personality.’

A Cut Above Savile Row may be known for its history of great tailoring, but its residents have their sights set firmly on the future, says Maria Kirchen-Hill Above: Henry Poole & Co fabrics

Often known as ‘the golden mile of tailoring’, London’s Savile Row is one of the world’s most famous destinations when it comes to bespoke menswear, and with good reason. It is home to some of the most talented tailors in the field, and the street’s name has become a byword for excellent suiting.

For men or for women, the 84

classic or the contemporary, there is absolutely no better place in the capital for madeto-measure clothing.

The first tailors made their home on Savile Row at the turn of the 19th century, attracted by the affluent residents of Mayfair, which remains one of the city’s most upmarket neighbourhoods.

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remain, but many of today’s establishments have long histories on the street, including Henry Poole & Co, which has had a presence there since 1846, and today occupies 15 Savile Row. The firm’s eponymous founder ran the business from 1846 to 1876, during which he outfitted the future Emperor Napoleon III of France, was

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employed by Queen Victoria and was tailor of choice to the Prince of Wales, who became King Edward VII. By the end of his three decades at the helm, Poole had played a huge part in establishing Savile Row as a haven for bespoke tailoring and Poole’s as one of its shining stars. By the early 1900s it was the largest establishment of its type in the world, employing 300 tailors and 14 cutters.

To this day, discerning gentlemen travel to London from all parts of the world to be fitted for a bespoke suit at Poole’s. The company is credited with creating the dinner jacket (aka the tuxedo), so this is naturally a popular choice. But the team offers

everything from morning and evening dress to bespoke blazers, sports jackets, shirts, coats and – of course – suits, along with a wide array of beautiful accessories. Clients can choose from over 6,000 fabric swatches – all of the finest quality – and the team will make each piece to your exact measurements.

Just as Henry Poole & Co has evolved with the times, so too has Savile Row, and the street is also home to a number of leading fashion brands. Ready-to-wear was first introduced in the 1970s by such brands as Gieves & Hawkes and Hardy Amies, but the arrival of international names is a relatively new development. French fashion

house Lanvin has its London menswear flagship here, which offers the brand’s ready-towear collection, its trademark luxury bow ties, a wide range of accessories and leather goods, and even a made-tomeasure suiting service. For Lanvin, Savile Row was the natural choice of location. ‘It’s mythic,’ said Alber Elbaz, Lanvin’s designer at the time of the store’s opening. ‘For me, in London, there was no other place.’

Dean and Dan Caten, the twin brothers who are co-creative directors of catwalk label Dsquared2, had similar feelings when it came to opening their own store. ‘Our London flagship store is very special for us

It’s no wonder Savile Row is world famous

Above: Henry Poole & Co showroom

PHOTO: (MIDDLE) DSQUARED2

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because we live in this city, which is a constant influence and source of inspiration for us,’ say the pair. ‘It is not by chance that we chose the Savile Row intersection with Conduit Street as the position.

Over the years, Savile Row has been one of the most important destinations for fashion-conscious men and has become synonymous with high quality, tradition, originality – values which are imbued in our designs as well.’ The boutique carries the brand’s full range of collections, including contemporary tailoring in new wools and stretch cottons and womenswear.

Although there have been exciting new developments in

the past few decades, the heart of Savile Row remains the art of the bespoke suit. As Tess Harriott, business development manager at 40 Savile Row, explains, this is a product whose appeal transcends age, occupation and the like. ‘The 40 Savile Row customer varies from a young fashion-forward teenager, to graduating students choosing their first interview suit, to professionals in banking, law, insurance and so on. We also have customers who have always dreamed of having a Savile Row suit and will treat themselves for a special occasion.’

The family-run tailoring business is a shining example of the exemplary service

available on the street.

‘Everyone is welcome,’ says Harriott of the store. ‘We all have over 15 years’ experience in the business so can cater to all shapes and tastes and will guide the customer to make the best choice for them. We are all perfectionists, so we will not let a suit leave the shop unless it is of the highest standard, especially the fit of the suit. The aesthetic of the suit is totally designed by the customer and this is what makes it unique.’

Combining the timeless luxury of bespoke apparel with an ability to embrace every style and trend, it’s no wonder Savile Row remains world famous

Above (from left): Lanvin autumn/winter 2017/18; Dsquared2 Classic collection; 40 Savile Row suit

PHOTO: MEINKE KLEIN @UNIT

From pun Vivienne Wk rock fashion to politi estwood cal activ culture for over 40 yea has been an icon of B ism, partner An rs. As her h ritish Hannah Le dreas K ronthaler step usband and design wis takes a s look at fash into the spotlight, ion’s cooles t couple Westwood Kronthaler and Vivienne Left: designers Andreas

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I

n the fickle world of fashion, where today’s big name is tomorrow’s old news, Vivienne Westwood is a rarity.

Having burst on to the scene in 1971, and defined the look of the punk era alongside her then partner Malcolm McLaren, Westwood has remained at the cutting edge of fashion and culture for well over four decades. Her eponymous brand is one of the biggest fashion labels in the world and the designer herself is acknowledged as one of the most influential creatives – and activists – in the world today.

In 1988, Westwood began teaching at the Vienna School of Applied Arts.

It was there that she met Andreas Kronthaler, who was studying fashion design.

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Kronthaler’s original designs caught Westwood’s eye, and she invited him to London to develop them further. His ‘sun wheel’ dresses, inspired by the Renaissance, were featured in the Vivienne Westwood collection in 1989. So began a partnership that has become central to the brand. The pair married in 1993, and today they remain partners in both business and life.

Together Westwood and Kronthaler have taken the brand from strength to strength. For Kronthaler, it’s all about balance, and mutual respect: ‘Vivienne is an individual with a revolutionary vision and her image and work are strongly recognisable. She’s a punk and a scholar. This was established when I met her. I too have

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Above (clockwise from top): a design sketch; two catwalk looks, all Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood autumn/winter 2017/18

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a vision and we pooled our resources, intellectually as well as physically. People ask how a couple who live together and work together manage it.

We’re both very tolerant and it is stimulating: a learning process.’

For autumn/winter 2016/17 the brand’s Gold Label line – shown each season at Paris Fashion Week – was renamed Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. This was partly motivated by a desire to recognise the brand as a

joint effort. ‘Over the years Andreas has taken on ever more responsibility and I wish this fact to be reflected in public perception,’ explained Westwood at the time. But it was also an acknowledgement of the two as individuals. ‘I have designed with Vivienne for more than 25 years,’ he explains. ‘We wanted to clarify our lines. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood: that’s just me. The collection is more couture.’

Both designers are

Above (both): Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood autumn/winter 2017/18

involved on some level with every aspect of the brand, but the separation allows their differences to flourish. ‘We always work quite separately and come back together – we work very differently from each other,’ says Kronthaler of the design process. ‘I constantly try things out and keep changing things; I’m never satisfied and drive Vivienne mad. She is different: she approaches something and makes a decision then builds on it

– she’s very literal and logical.

I tend to throw things up and create chaos before I can have order.’

For autumn/winter 2017/18, Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood is inspired by the designer’s home nation. ‘The realisation at the end was that I see myself as an Austrian designer,’ says Kronthaler of the collection.

‘It was about acknowledging my nationality and giving shape to my identity. The landscapes, the people, their costumes: they are my roots. It took me a while to understand the importance of where I was from.’ Designed as a tribute to the Wiener Werkstätte – a community of artists in Vienna in the early 1900s – the collection shows distinct Austrian influences, such as alpine florals and dirndl-inspired silhouettes.

But Kronthaler’s artistic Austrian inspirations – Gustav Klimt among them – also led to bold paint splatters, vibrant prints and a cacophony of rich colours, all of which immediately conveyed the signature Vivienne Westwood exuberance.

For the Vivienne Westwood mainline collection this season, the eponymous designer once again used her catwalk event and the designs it showcased as a platform, telling a story of eco warriors fighting climate change through her staging. Westwood is a noted activist, and her company is committed to going green – many of the materials she uses are recycled, or use Above (clockwise from top left): two catwalk looks; backstage, all Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood autumn/winter 2017/18

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) KAMIL KUSTOSZ

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PHOTOS: UGO CAMERA

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environmentally friendly dyeing and manufacturing processes. Garments are cut in a way that creates as little waste as possible. ‘Buy less, choose well, make it last,’ is a key motto.

Westwood’s true talent lies in seamlessly incorporating such political statements into her collections. She sees art and fashion as an important platform for ideas, but the serious issues have never taken away from her wild and vibrant vision. Her

anti climate change mission statement was artfully splashed across trousers and tops in this unisex collection, while elsewhere she favoured bold prints (both abstract and photographic), patchwork appliqué, plaids and a healthy dose of gold lamé. A standout look featured a red tailored dress with matching jacket, which Westwood paired with knee-high red boots, a red cape and a knitted balaclava. Her catwalk styling makes a bold statement, but

Above (both): Vivienne Westwood autumn/winter 2017/18

individually her pieces are undeniably wearable.

These are two very different collections with very different inspirations, and yet put a look from each side by side and the common aesthetic is immediately visible. The Vivienne Westwood style remains one of the strongest signatures in the world of fashion. ‘We have evolved together,’ explains Kronthaler.

We can only wait and see where that evolution takes them next

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TABLE TALK Dining is always elevated by a spectacular view and these London restaurants have some of the best, says Sally McIlhone

Whether on a rooftop or the uppermost floor of one of the city’s most impressive skyscrapers, London’s best views come as a spectacular side order to its most delectable eateries. The London skyline has many famous landmarks to admire, and the best place to spot St Paul’s Cathedral, the Palace of Westminster and the London Eye, or to admire the curves of the Thames, is always from above.

Dining with a view need not be reserved for the last meal of the day. Brunch and lunch options are available for those who prefer to spend their weekends languidly sipping midday cocktails and watching the world go by. And what a world it is from so far above ground. Our selection offers everything from Japanese and South American fusion cuisine to contemporary British flavours. When it comes to fine dining in London, the only way is up. globalblue.com

PHOTO: © MING TANG-EVANS

SUSHISAMBA Marrying the dishes of Peru, Brazil and Japan might sound a complex task, but SushiSamba’s recipes harmonise these contrasting cuisines, and each plate is executed with the utmost finesse. Small plates such as shrimp tempura with spicy mayo and black truffle vinaigrette, or crispy lobster taquitos, are a perfect way to whet your appetite for the enticing main courses. SushiSamba is famous for its Kobe beef, served with a hot stone so guests can cook it themselves at the table; enjoy with a selection of dipping sauces.

Dishes from the robata grill, including teriyaki chicken or lamb chop with red miso, are hearty and comforting, and be sure to order a plate from the samba rolls section of the menu – the El Topo is unusual and delicious. For dessert, you cannot beat the alfajores or the mocha: the perfect end to an unforgettable meal.

SushiSamba, 110 Bishopsgate, London EC2N 4AY, +44 (0)20 3640 7330, sushisamba.com

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An inviting space in the heart of London’s hip Shoreditch area, The Rooftop at Ace Hotel offers brunch, events and private dining for those in the know. Consult the website during your trip to check out events during your stay – these might combine, for example, a yoga class with a healthy brunch, and can be booked online. Rooftop brunch is also available, weather permitting; try the roasted Portobello mushrooms with ricotta on toasted sourdough, or omelette with ’nduja sausage, roasted cherry tomatoes, cheddar and rocket. Groups of 10 or more can also book the rooftop for private dining, so if you’re celebrating a special occasion with friends and family, this is an ideal choice.

The Rooftop at Ace Hotel, 100 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JQ, +44 (0)20 7613 9800, acehotel.com globalblue.com

PHOTO: (TOP) ABACAPRESS/DIDIER DELMAS

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BŌKAN Located in the heart of the Canary Wharf business district, Bōkan comprises a restaurant, bar and roof terrace on the 37th, 38th and 39th floors of 40 Marsh Wall. One of the best ways to enjoy the Bōkan experience is with its bottomless brunch, served at weekends and on public holidays, whose menu features European-inspired plates made using the best ingredients from a select group of British suppliers. The three-course menu offers bottomless Prosecco alongside starters of tiger prawn tartare with avocado, little gem lettuce and lime, or veal and pork terrine with dry apricots, capers and toast, followed

by English pea risotto or crispy eggs royale with hot-smoked Maldon salmon and wasabi mayonnaise. For dessert, the Paris-Brest – two circular choux pastries with an indulgently creamy praline filling – is hard to beat.

Bōkan, 40 Marsh Wall, London E14 9TP, +44 (0)20 3530 0550, bokanlondon.co.uk FENCHURCH Perched on the 37th floor of 20 Fenchurch, also known as the Walkie Talkie, Fenchurch restaurant is housed within the famous Sky Garden. Head chef Daniel Fletcher, appointed earlier this year, comes from The Square restaurant, a two Michelin-starred venue headed up by Phil Howard, so his credentials speak for themselves. Should you still need convincing, a short perusal of the menu should allay any fears. Tasting menus are offered at lunch and dinner (five and eight courses respectively) and feature seasonal plates such as warm salad of violet artichoke, London airdried ham and courgette, followed by poached black cherries with sour cream ice cream and sorrel. A two- or three-course set lunch menu is also available from Sunday to Tuesday, along with the à la carte option. Sommelier Alexandru Pastrav skilfully recommends drinks to accompany your chosen dishes.

Fenchurch, Sky Garden, 1 Sky Garden Walk, London EC3M 8AF, +44 (0)333 772 0020, skygarden.london/fenchurch-restaurant

GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to London with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from one of its coolest new venues to a luxurious hair salon. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.

Above: Westminster Abbey, parts of which date back to the 13th century, is one of England’s most important and most beautiful Gothic buildings

PHOTO: © MÓNICA R GOYA

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SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOS: KIRSTY ANDREWS

‘London is full of history and culture, offering everything from magnificent buildings and luxurious afternoon teas to indulgent cocktails and worldclass shopping’ – Kirsty Andrews, SHOP’s picture editor

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Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopmagazine_.

Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

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JAMES PURDEY ● & SONS LTD LONB ● LONDON P.30

CIRE TRUDON ●

● BELLA FREUD

SELECTED STORES IN SELFRIDGES: Tiffany & Co Manolo Blahnik

NE W BOND S

ROBERT CLERGERIE ●

TRE

ET

Selfridges P.30 O BOND STREET S O T A L L S G R TI L A O ● VI UTH ● A ●

OX FO RD

S T RE E T ● PINKO C IN L BOSIDENG ● LS CA E I BROWNS ● AR NA TI ● A RU S H O D D BROWNS FOCUS ● ● L INK AR WHISTLES ● ● P ÉR BS CLAUDIE PIERLOT ● ● G OB NK ● H E PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND ● ● AC S N I BUTLER & WILSON ● S P E I S I M I A R OE R E S ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● ● R AT C K L N DUNE LONDON ● ● C AS BA OP LE ● M E D KO IL VERTICE UOMO ● ● T E M N AR ● TH LUMAS GALLERY ● E E R ● JONES ● AU K A OW SI N E MONICA VINADER ● ● S L A J E O O B AT E O S ● M AS IT IN A R BO L I A ● T S AFTERSHOCK ● The Beaumont ● P E U CO TO R S S ● R A R M A E T T RY POSTE ● ● S HO E LA LE COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● ● T T I N CO EL MODA IN PELLE ● ● AR HO EW T C K J OF N ROCKPORT ● ● C S DO SANDRO ● ● INKON L L AUBADE ● SPENCE R ● ANNOUSHKA ● ● HART

ACCESSORIZE ●

SO

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HANOVE R STREET

BON D ST

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BROOKS MEWS

NEW

BROOK STREET

Claridge’s

AV SONIA ● RYKIEL ● POMELLATO

DAVIE S STR EET

VERA WANG AT BROWNS ●

RO W

M AD DO X ST R EE GROSVEN OR STREET

Global Blue Retailer London Underground Station

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Hotel

Restaurant

T

S H O P | 69

New Bond Street OX FO RD ST R

OP N SH NRA E CO H T ● OX FO R D ST RE A● EXT ET ●N ZAR ● E W IN L 3 N A P.3 TM G E ● Z ARE IL D O F E L G IN SAK O N EG RME ONS S● ● E OHNST V IA O J L N ● AT E E P RO ST ●B OND CT E FA O F B OX ● A R TT C H E S R IN ● ● O T A V IC P P L E IN ● TENTERDEN STREET ●W TENTERDEN STREET IP LU P H IL L O R IB O ● T H IS P R E E M ASL ●B S● HAM B O N IA M S ● L E ER ● IL A W AK IT R M IKO K U Y IY RE DA M IG D L Y O W H● ROG SE D H IG T ● ●O IS LU S ● ● FRO E Y ● ML H ANOV ER STREE T 8 O .3 R P B BROOK ST R EE T L& ● 77 DIAMONDS w ic k SEL ● Fe n RUS RET ANA C B E B S A &G IA’S LCE TO R O IC D V ● ● RCH NI DMA ● RMA A H IN B L A N C IO A T ANY POR N M O E M ● P.16 Y A ERR PI SS ● O ULB M BROO KS M E W S O BO NK ●M LY A HUG ZI GE HA E O LL A ● T T NE GNA ● UV AS IR R LO A RI O ZE A S A AT G IL D A G N O N A ●N ET HM A M ENE ● IN RO CH E RI ● E P ERM ● IL ● Z ● ● ● PA L ALI M A D DO X ST. CAN LY L ● THE BOX BOUTIQUE A ● STREET OR GROSVEN G ● B EMPE IT L IN I ● ●W B R E E L IA N ● H N H IL L C R A O O C DUN N ’S ● ●C HSO ET RCH MYT CH U RY RE ●S NA ST LLE Z EG A Z T G ● AU X RA UI E LV OPE ●D ND FF ● LOT IN E S TA C O ● DSQUARED2 HUB GRO SV ENOR HILL N TA ● ● O BEL C F IW NNE MP S● ●A CHA H IL IP I ● ONG OO SJ P ●L L Y CH Z IL L M BEL Y DI ● AMP ● J IM MLE FEN IE C C N BRO ET U E E L L& UR ● ● TR L A S E L N O D R U S O ) B S P H E N ’S U L R A ● DR OR ● P O L (C H IL RCH Y Y B U IU ● ERR TO R IU M URB IC ● M N ●B TO E N ’S M ● TLE MÈS GEN H E R O WA ● R IM A● TO N T IA N ● S OP V U IT L ET TO N LOR H A N E O U IS U STRE C R ●L B R● OR D D IO LIFF

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DAVIE S ST R EET

NEW

BON

D ST

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DAVIES STREET

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NEW

BON

Berkeley Square

E S● IL L IP A D IE N ● K PH ’S L AT E ●P RCH CH ERO O U N H C GO BOU IS O E GR EX ● ●D L R O E L R ● D ●A REY ARD ASP ARI ● HOP ●C P.32 B U L G E T ● IN G IA P ● C PA LAN ET CUS LS ●B RPE U M A R TO N ● R EG EEF & A S B ● IN ● W CL FF Y N IE R ● A A R V SS ● HA GER L LO F N MOU R A F L A U R E B R U N E IN E L L I BAD ● ●G C H LF & NEL S WO ALP ● CU CHA E T ● DEN ●R M R U A NG C H A T IE R ● G TO AR ES ● IN C L ● R OO ● DL BU Y CH B OO OTO ● J IM MU B O U T IN IM M● M IK R R IS ● N L OB E C K H A O IA M T ID IS C H R IC T O R IA D AV V

D ST

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T.

Department Store

Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

T

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P.34

70 | G U I D E

Conduit Street & Old Bond Street

THE NED

● C H ’S KES ● HUR H AW ●C RKS ES & CL A G IE V N OW IS O MA LA ● ILE R OUR S AV ●F R G IE T ● D2 MA G O A IV E R ARE S A SQU OL EY ● ● D -3 A D ID IYA K E ALD G E E N IN D IA O Z WO AT E N ● Y SEY M ET P.26 SW T ● i ’s B TRE S n ● S N EAS ANY ● IS G TO ecco AKE IN R C T H E CO M P c h L ●D BUR t S N OLD S ke OTO ● I● & SO ELL A M J O H N● TO N AM U C IN S NOR O JI Y ● LO C B IE VAT YO H NEL ● VA R ROM BRU ●C UE M C MN N E N A L IQ IE T ESO V IV M A N ● ●L R EE RSH K ST L HE OOD RNO ● CO R N IE ST W A ETE H● WE OOD ● D EPPE I TOS T ● S ST W C K IN K L E Y G IU Z A N O T WE MA NNE ● .31 I HOC ER ● N IV IE I P O ELL P.32 P T IT ●V &P LD ● IL IP RLU ●K O F E BY NA ●B CK G RHI ● R IG E A B IA BLA FA ROB ●F S E L IC O L E ET ARD N TRE ●W

ST RE ET

M AD DO X

D IE

PET

● YS HEB ● SOT RDS ● A N DW E R E E O S S IA O ● IN TAT SCH MO

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ANG ER W A N D EET LEX TR ● A ARLE S

ALB

DEN GAR TO N M O L IN G R R AG A R U E B

With 252 bedrooms, nine restaurants, a members’ club, a barbershop, a beauty salon and a nail bar, The Ned has quickly become one of London’s coolest new hangouts. Housed in a former Midland Bank building in the City of London designed by Sir Edwin ‘Ned’ Lutyens in 1924, the refurbished building remains true to the grandeur of 1920s and 1930s design. Guests at The Ned are granted access to the exclusive members-only Ned’s Club, with its heated rooftop pool and bar, offering stunning views of the City and St Paul’s Cathedral. One of the hotel’s unique features can be found in the basement – the 20-tonne, two-metre-wide vault door which once kept the bank’s strongroom secure now opens into the Vault bar and lounge.

The Ned, 27 Poultry, London EC2R 8AJ, +44 (0)20 3828 2000, thened.com

S

● CO EY RE F Y& L● AT O C A R T N FA N H A N E R ● C A LV C CLE ●S ● LA M N TEL MO DKNY S ● IL A A H AT ● er ● C X MAR PER ● D ove e t A AM O ●M A S t r r k e t RCT U J A NE X ● R A DG A P C A I A R O L IS ● Ma ● TTE A KR I ● AR BO ENET RE NM I ● A OD U LT G I A L L AT R AV M S A IN T ●V ECO CE NI T● R- L N E E G BUC R AE BEL AU ●J A Burlington G LO R ● ● M E G N I Arcade ET ●O TRE T T E IT H I● IA T R O U L S M FO R D S G U CC O N AM D F 1 R A ● P P.3 HE S TA ● AKS VA C N T IN ANA ● D PERL A S TA ABB QUEEN U● A CO N V ER T ● L LCE & G MC ● R E O O T IN ● ●D AND R A LEN LEX R IN VA A R T IE ● ●A ’S MA DI ● O C TO D E T R L RY AL ● IN E R EBB J E WT R E ● &W AL A ● P P IN E R O Y Y T H ES S IA N MA DER H N T ● ● DEM A ● S X HO AC A A L E WA N G B O G E B E E R D I● ADE CAS The Wolseley T IF

OLD

BON

D ST

TRE

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D OV

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PIC ARL ING TO N STR

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SELECTED STORES IN BURLINGTON ARCADE: REET N ST Manolo Blahnik RMY Bell &J ERoss Frédéric Malle Paul Smith

.

Le Caprice

CAD

Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

Restaurant

S H O P | 71

Regent Street

TEMPERLEY

LEVI’S ●

● NIKETOWN

H&M ●

● TOPSHOP/TOPMAN

OXFORD CIRCUS BENETTON ●

KAREN MILLEN ● TED BAKER ● APPLE ● LACOSTE ●

OX FO RD ST ● TEZENIS

LONGCHAMP ● MOLTON BROWN ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● TORY BURCH ●

● & OTHER STORIES ● ACCESSORIZE

● ARMANI EXCHANGE ● ALL SAINTS ● H&M STUART M ● WEITZMAN A SC U TU ● AQ U ● COACH T STR EE K D AY OUGH R O B ● W EE L MAR

G R E AT

Liberty

P.28

● COS ● DESIGUAL

R EG E

FURLA ● HOBBS ● BARKER ● TUMI ● CAMPER ● KIPLING ● CLARKS ●

● GAP

FO

UB

ERT

'S P

L AC

E

● JAEGER ● KURT GEIGER

NAB

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REET

CAR

NT ST

CHURCH’S ● LINKS OF LONDON ● HACKETT ●

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 68

RE ET

● OMEGA

REGENT STREE T

ASICS ●

● HOUSE OF HANOVER

Fashion imitates art in this season’s sumptuously feminine collection from Temperley. Drawing on regal ruffles from baroque and Elizabethan portraiture as well as art nouveau florals and surrealist lip designs, this collection contains everything from showstopping gowns to high-waisted velvet trousers and chunky knitwear. Tactile elements such as silk, intricate beadwork and sequins are applied to dresses and midiskirts, offering a touch of festive elegance for evening events.

Temperley’s creative director Alice Temperley continues to wow fashion insiders and new fans of the brand alike with her directional, quintessentially British and incredibly covetable designs.

Temperley, 27 Bruton Street, London W1J 6QN, +44 (0)20 7313 5280, temperleylondon.com

REE

● HAMLEYS

T

● GANT ● JUICY COUTURE ● HUGO BOSS ● KATE SPADE ● LEVI’S

Cinnamon Soho

● REISS

LQD Premium men’s skincare brand LQD is making its debut in London, and is now available to buy exclusively at Harrods.

The Australian brand was founded in 2012 to offer products specifically for men that target common skincare issues, from dryness to ageing. Formulated without sulphates, parabens or other irritants, LQD’s range includes a face wash, a scrub and a serum we swear by.

Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, lqd.co.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73

London Underground Station

Department Store

Featured In This Issue

72 | G U I D E

Regent Street, Piccadilly & Jermyn Street ● HUGO BOSS

Cinnamon Soho Jinjuu

● REISS

● WOLFORD ● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● GUESS ● ANTHROPOLOGIE ● MASSIMO DUTTI

S AV I

R EG E

LE R

TRE ET

ET

ILE R OW

● TM LEWIN

PENHALIGON’S ●

JAC+ JACK ●

● FOLLI FOLLIE ● THE BODY SHOP

TOYWATCH ● ● CHESTER BARRIE

BURBERRY ●

BR

EW

ER

ST

DINOSAUR DESIGN ●

T

D YAR HAM

FRESCOBOL CARIOCA ● BRUMMELS OF LONDON ● ONCE ● MILANO EYEWEAR ● CONCIERGE

● AUSTIN REED ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT ● MOSS BROS GL AS ● UNIQLO SH OU ● COACH SE LONDON TEXTILE CO ● ST ● STEFANEL RE ET ● WOLFORD HOLLISTER ● ● NESPRESSO ● LOTUS

ORLEBAR BROWN ●

REISS ●

’S DON YX WLEY C ’T E R ● RO E T TS LON ● AE M ● EM S NE ● JO L NSPE ’S ● SU U RCH USE ● CH O GLE H NEY ● ● EA CHE A ● L E W IN R T IN A ● TM LA MA NES ● R STO WAT E KS ● DA T IS ● W H IT CURT S TYR ES & ARLE H AW ● CH R EE T RK ST O F YO DUK E DSON & HU Y E L R V IE ROM ● HA L&B SSEL ON ● RU LON D F LD O DRO IN K S ● LLA H IT F IE L W ● & S X TO N JO N E ● PA ON TT & M A IS U L IN E LES OCKE O S CHAR ● CR ● AS E● E R IC K D W IL L ● RO FREY O R IS ● FL BB H N LO ● JO T Y● CKE T & KE ● ET ● HA IT C H STR E S H IL D V IL LE K B AT E ● SON S AC K ● P IN ER & ER FOST IS BARK E ● T R ● WS AK & CU H WES D SPE N D IS ● HA C AV E VERE S ’S JA M E ● DE T ST

UGG ● AUSTRALIA

NT STREET

Fo r t n

● LILLYWHITES

D IL LY

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C Z EC

P IC C A

OSPR

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rcade

Maso

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um &

P r in c

PICCADILLY CIRCUS Piccadilly Circus

RO

R EGE

H AN

ALFR ED DU

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TR EE

VENE

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T

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St James’s Square

CH A R

T

S T JA

TR EE

TR EE

KE S

DU UTUM UA S C ● AQ IN K S UFFL IR E C N NGM EE ST ● LO D GR OND B D WA R ● ED OR OF OL YL EY K & ● TA D IT C H ET ● H IL g li n o ’sU RY S T R E B Qua R ASSE LL & NES RNBU ● T U C K E T T & JO O ● CR HAMP C ’S ● DU IC K E R L IS IL ● TR MA W ● E M ID O F F R EE T V ’S S T ● DA MES

R EE T

JER M

OS ● GR

LO W E

N H IL

BOGG

OD ● GWO K ● & L IN N E W OU RBROO H N JO FAV LEY ● ● SMED NS ● O CASE W ILT R E ● MO SL A D TO N ● ES JM W C O ’S ● F R A N T TA ● BERE

YN ST

DENMAN STREET

H BA UNTE RB O R● YA C O C K I E U R ● LC H H I NC I N E L’ S ● LL A PA A● R SH PIQ IS M OP ● IK U VIL WHIT ADR I ● O E T P E B R EQ A R D ● PE ● J E AU I N ● NS ● CAM P MAR Z IO ●O E XC OF L ELLENC OND O N ●E H AW C U R TE S & T H E S IS ● T IN G ●

SUPERDRY ●

● MR HARE

JER M

● ZARA ● MANGO

E RE

VIGO STR EE T

SELECTED STORES IN PRINCESS ARCADE: The Left Shoe Company

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

ES S

TRE

S AV

RUSSELL & ● BROMLEY

ZARA HOME ●

HN S

● MAPPIN & WEBB

GODIVA ● SWAROVSKI ●

E R JO

● TOMMY HILFIGER

AM

● TIMBERLAND

● LANVIN MEN

ER J

LOW

OXFORDS ●

40 SAVILE ROW ●

.

K ST

● BROOKS BROTHERS

R EE T

WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND ●

BEA

Blow Ltd.

LOW

L’OCCITANE ●

NT ST

CRABTREE & EVELYN ●

OW

RICHARD JAMES ●

● OUR LEGACY

● LEVI’S

ACE

● JOSEPH

DENM AN PL

HACKETT ● J CREW ●

LE S II

STR E

ET

● JAMES LOCK & CO ● BERRY BROS & RUDD

K IN G

ST R E

ET

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

Blow Dry Bar

Restaurant

Featured In This Issue

Department Store

S H O P | 73

Brompton Road

RO X

N RO AD

●

KENSINGTON ROA D RB ER

D AN ● ER SS TL RO CU G 6 P.3

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AD RO

PT

JA

PA

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ER LL PE & Y N GB O RI RS ● DE N SA RT ’ S PE CH UT RU UR ● CH P OR A S H ● GA ND LAS ● PA N G O ● S U KO E S S N R PI SP S IS RE

SELECTED STORES IN HARRODS: Alexandra Llewellyn P.35 Atelier Des Ors Creed Hill & Friends Hublot Lladro LQD P.71 Vertu

HA NS

●

RO AD

●

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NC T EE

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S LE AR CH

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CA

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WA

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R BE AL & M A EU RI S O MU

O I M O AN IU M IN AR LL S O PE NE RI

●

Y E RR SP BE & UL KS M AR M ●

●

●

NI ●

CT

BE

A ● ANY

PON ● SKANDIUM

Place Of Interest

● JOSEPH

London Underground Station

Hotel

H IN D M

A RCH

ET T ST R E

N RO AD

●

IC

s

O PAV IL LI

R

●

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od

NE

LI

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FS

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DO

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ON

CO

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●

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VI

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LA

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CA E AC PL AL EV H C

BR

DI

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PY ● RA S HE TE AT I A M C O SO AR AS

BR

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CA

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ACE

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CH

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TO

L OT P CEL

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MONTP

N S ST EL IE R P

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● KA T RE E ● LU RE L ST HAE ● LK I JO N M RAP IL E ● C BE LE ● G A CO N N E N TT ● SE NT ● A C I KO ● P O CES ● BA RS SO ● W RK CH RI ● T O AT C E R E D Z E ES T ● H M H IG ● M E MY ES N ● K A S KO H O F ● T E U TC SI M O P I L F SW ● D D H L I IE B IN O D ES GE ITZ R ● R U S A ER Z A SS EL KE SKY UT T LA R I R A EL ND L & ● BR FE OM AT KNIGHTSBRIDGE HE LE Y RS

BA

LAN

HA

R PL

ST ER LI M ON TP

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ON

ST RE ET

T R E VO

WAL K

●

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TR EV OR

TREVOR PL

P EL IE R

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

BU

Bulgari Hotel

MONT

HARVEY NICHOLS ●

LE

K EN SI NG TO

74 | G U I D E

ERMANNO SCERVINO While Ermanno Scervino’s heritage lies deep in the heart of Italy, the label looked to heritage of a different kind for its autumn/winter 2017/18 collection.

Traditionally British and decidedly masculine, the Prince of Wales check used for this season’s iteration of the Faubourg adds a touch of traditional tailoring to a classic day bag. An injection of fun and femininity comes from the pop of red that runs along the handle, resulting in a bag that’s anything but usual. The timeless wool makes it perfect for winter, conjuring up images of overcoats and falling temperatures. Pair yours with a warm jacket for equally faultless seasonal style.

Ermanno Scervino, 198-199 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QX, +44 (0)20 7235 0558, ermannoscervino.it

Sloane Street North

Sloane Street South CADO GAN GATE

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

CADOGAN PLACE

● AMELIA WICKSTEAD

Harvey Nichols

● PINK ELL IS STREET

● GARRARD C A D O G A N G A R DEN

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

EE

T

DOLCE & GABBANA ● JITROIS ● CESARE PACIOTTI ● OMEGA ●

ANNE FONTAINE ●

● MONCLER ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ● ESCADA ● MISSONI

● DOLCE & GABBANA

● EMILIO PUCCI ● CHANEL ● ARIJE ● LA PERLA ● HERMÈS

CADOGA N PLACE

PETER JONES ●

KIN

G’ S

Colbe rt

SY MONS STR EE T

RD

Sloane Square ROYAL COURT THEATRE

SLOANE SQUARE S LOA N E G A R D E N S

● SAINT LAURENT

● PICKETT ● N PEAL

LOW ER SLOANE STREET

● VALENTINO

BIONDA ● CASTANA

● HUGO BOSS

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ●

● BULGARI

SLOA NE TERRACE

● MAJE ● CASSANDRA GOAD

● CLUB MONACO ● DODO ● BOGGI ● HOSS INTROPIA ● LINKS OF LONDON ● TM LEWIN ● RIGBY & PELLER ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● WOLFORD ● ELLIOT RHODES ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● BCBGMAXAZRIA ● CATH KIDSTON ● ERIC BOMBARD ● WHISTLES ● COS

LORO PIANA ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ●

ry

PRADA ●

dD

GIORGIO ARMANI ●

● FENDI

● KABIRI BIMBA Y ● LOLA VIVIENNE ● WESTWOOD

WILBR AHA M P L .

● CHLOÉ ● OLIVER PEOPLES ● JO MALONE

LINKS OF LONDON ●

A● HK ● US RS NO TE S ● A N T ROT P L E Y ● O E KO M L I ● TH E BRO L& EL

TOD’S ●

● VERSACE

AMOUAGE ●

BOTTEGA VENETA ●

● MIU MIU

L O W N D E S S T.

SLOANE STREET

JIMMY CHOO ●

SS

● ROGER VIVIER

k an

GUCCI ●

MICHAEL KORS ● DIOR ●

Square

HARRIET ST.

JOSEPH ●

MARNI ●

HACKETT ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● FRANK SMYTHSON ● CARTIER ● TIFFANY & CO ●

P.28 Lowndes

● LOUIS VUITTON ● BERLUTI ● GINA

ROBERTO CAVALLI ●

REDVALENTINO ● DELPOZO ●

● ERMANNO SCERVINO

RU

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● TOM FORD

KIK

BONPOINT ●

● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Duc

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HOGAN ● GRAFF ●

BOUTIQUE 1 ●

● ALBERTA FERRETTI

SLOANE STREET

SLOANE STREET

DOLCE & GABBANA ● BOODLES ●

● DRIJE

● PAULE KA ● BROWNS ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● ANYA HINDMARCH

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Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

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Blow Dry Bar

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Featured In This Issue

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Redchurch Street C A LV ● START

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CATCH & RELEASE ●

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THOR & WHISTLE ● W HI T BY

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Owl & the Pussycat

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HOSTEM ●

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SHOREDITCH HOUSE

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MAISON TROIS GARCONS ●

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AMETSA WITH ARZAK INSTRUCTION Fusing molecular cuisine with the flavours of the Basque country, Ametsa with Arzak Instruction was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Under the aegis of chef Elena Arzak, the restaurant’s tasting menu is playful and delicious. The platter of starters includes pumpkin and mandarin soup, among other bite-sized delicacies. Dishes such as scallop and hemp seeds and egg in the leaf follow, each more intriguing than the last. Dessert might be a doughless apple doughnut, or a mango and orange flan. One thing is certain: what you can expect – other than a delightful meal – is the unexpected.

Shopping Centre/Mall

Bar

Ametsa with Arzak Instruction, Como The Halkin, 5 Halkin Street, London SW1X 7DJ, +44 (0)20 7333 1234, comohotels.com/thehalkin

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Ledbury Road E&O

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E ART ESI AN ROA D ● PENELOPE CHILVERS

● JW BEETON ● LE CREUSET ● MELISSA ODABASH

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● WOLF & BADGER EMMA HOPE ● ● ROBIN MARTIN ANTIQUES MARIE-CHANTAL CHILDREN ● ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● ORLEBAR BROWN IRIS ● ● REISS JOSEPH ● MELT ● ● BODAS ASHLEY STORES ● ASSYA LONDON ● ● DAVID CLULOW JEEVES ●

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Beach Blanket Babylon

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Ottolenghi

● I LOVE GORGEOUS

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TWENTY8TWELVE ● MATCHES ● DIANE VON FURSTENBERG ● THE VILLAGE BICYCLE ● CARAMEL ● EWS EM LYON CHOY LONDON ● V IL L CO L PETIT BATEAU ●

● PETIT AIME

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FARA BABY ● FARA KIDS ●

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SHOP DIARY

A ROUND–UP OF THIS SEASON’S MUST–DOS Victoria and Albert Museum Think you know your silk from your satin and your poplin from your peplum? Anyone with an interest in fine fashion must check out the Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum on the work and life of Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga.

Discover more than 100 pieces of couture crafted by the designer himself and get an understanding of his legacy. vam.co.uk

NOV

Global Blue Retailer

Skate at Somerset House If you’re in London during December, don’t miss out on the Christmas activities on offer. Ice skating at Somerset House is one of the most sophisticated ways to get into the festive spirit. The outdoor rink in the elegant courtyard is open daily from 15 November to 14 January.

Once you’ve done a few graceful circuits of the rink, savour a hot chocolate in Fortnum & Mason’s chic lodge, or linger for one of the special Skate Late nights. somersethouse.org.uk

DEC

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Restaurant

Almeida Theatre No trip to London is complete without exploring the city’s rich theatre culture, which spans everything from hit musicals to Shakespeare. Fans of serious drama should not miss Robert Icke’s adaptation of Friedrich Schiller’s Mary Stuart starring British actresses Juliet Stevenson and Lia Williams as Elizabeth I and Mary Stuart. For excitement as well as a little lesson in British history, this play at the Almeida Theatre is set to be one of best in 2018. almeida.co.uk

JAN

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MATTHEW CURTIS Renowned hair stylist Matthew Curtis has a stunning Orient Express-inspired boutique salon at the Rosewood London hotel. Curtis wanted to create a hair salon that took inspiration from the world of spas, offering guests a variety of hair treatments and colouring services as well as a luxury blow-dry menu inspired by catwalk trends.

All this and more can be found in a beautifully decorated space inside the Sense spa that channels the indulgence of high-end living. This is the third Matthew Curtis salon in the UK and probably the most exciting and luxurious of them all. If you require a more personal touch, Matthew Curtis offers an in-room styling experience for hotel guests.

Matthew Curtis, Rosewood London, 252 High Holborn, London WC1V 7EN, +44 (0)20 3747 8830, matthewcurtis.biz

Westbourne Grove & Denbigh Road The Ledbury VINE CO L

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Blow Dry Bar

Café

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o SHOP GE N er & C IV IN G G ra n g L IV IN G & GD C A F E L O U N A E R Y 'S ● M A B O U T IQ U ● PET TA G E NOS ● N A E R IC A N V IN ● AM RA O ● BR ODHOUSE S E ● WO ST LE ● AT U R A B AV IL ● T O JE S T IC F IL ● S O DA ● M A T YQ U E CH & RY E ● ● D IP P O IN T S COT WELL A& SH JE B N L ● BO ● SMAL A P K L E IN E RY ● P IP H E ID I GALL AD ORE ● L AC Y RY R O IN M O T● MART LEDBU IE R L O D IE P

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DAY TRIP WESTFIELD LONDON

WESTFIELD STRATFORD

With two floors and hundreds of stores, Westfield London is the perfect place to spend a day. Head to The Village where you’ll find the crème de la crème of international luxury brands, from Burberry and Prada to Omega and Gucci.

Westfield London, Ariel Way, London W12 7SL, +44 (0)20 3371 2300, uk.westfield.com

Located next to the Olympic Park, Westfield Stratford City is home to an array of leading brands and shops. Look out for British department store John Lewis, Apple and a host of watch brands, from Breitling to Swatch.

Westfield Stratford City, Montfichet Road, Olympic Park, London E20 1EJ, +44 (0)20 8221 7300, uk.westfield.com OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-9pm Saturday: 9am-9pm Sunday: 12pm-6pm

OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-10pm Sunday: 12pm-6pm

Westfield Stratford City STRATFORD INTERNATIONAL STRATFORD STATION

KINGS CROSS ST.PANCRAS STATION PADDINGTON STATION

Westfield London

EUSTON

CHARING CROSS STATION LIVERPOOL STREET STATION

SHEPHERD’S BUSH STATION

WATERLOO STATION

HOW TO GET THERE To Westfield London

By London Underground There are four Underground stations within walking distance of Westfield London: Shepherd’s Bush and White City on the Central line and Wood Lane and Shepherd’s Bush Market on the Hammersmith & City and Circle lines.

By taxi A taxi from central London takes 10 minutes.

Shopping Centre

London Underground Station

To Westfield Stratford City

By London Underground The Central and Jubilee lines run a regular service from central London to Stratford station.

By train Trains run from Kings Cross-St Pancras and Liverpool Street to Stratford International station.

By taxi A taxi from central London takes 25 minutes.

Train Station

S H O P | 79

WESTFIELD LONDON SERVICES

tax refunds • On-site parking • Valet shopping • Hands-free • Same-day hotel delivery

WESTFIELD STRATFORD CITY SERVICES

PHOTOS: G-FONNE PHOTOGRAPHY

Currency exchange • Personal • Hands-freeshopping shopping • Same-day hotel delivery •

globalblue.com

80 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP BICESTER VILLAGE Find your fabulous at Bicester Village, with more than 130 boutiques including Temperley London, The White Company, Marni and dunhill, savings of up to 60% and instant tax refunds.

Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6WD, +44 (0)1869 366266, bicestervillage.com

BICESTER NORTH BICESTER VILLAGE STATION Bicester Village

A41

M1

M40

A41

M1 M40

M25 M40

LONDON

By car Bicester Village is just 60 minutes from London by car. Exit the M40 motorway at Junction 9 and follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester.

From Bicester the route is clearly signposted. Look for Bicester Village Outlet Centre.

Parking is always free.

Train Station

Outlet Village

By Shopping Express® The Shopping Express® coach service runs direct from central London to Bicester Village. Choose from two routes that operate daily* return services, collecting from selected London hotels.

Adult return £28/child return £20 (ages 5-12). *excludes 25 December

By train Travel from London Marylebone direct to Bicester Village Station in as little as 46 minutes, with two services an hour. Travel from Birmingham Moor Street or Birmingham Snow Hill to Bicester North, where a shuttle bus will take you to the Village.

PHOTO: (PROFILE) MICHAEL CHAPMAN

HOW TO GET THERE

S H O P | 81

MY PERFECT DAY SHOP’S COMMERCIAL EDITOR RUAIRIDH PRITCHARD DESCRIBES HOW HE WOULD SPEND A PERFECT DAY AT BICESTER VILLAGE

DON’T MISS… SHOPPING DAY EXPERIENCE This exclusive package includes: Shopping Express® return tickets from central London An additional 10% saving on the outlet price in boutiques Hands-free Shopping – you do the shopping, we do the carrying Lunch or dinner A £50 Bicester Village Gift Card to spend in your favourite boutiques Treat yourself to the perfect day out for £99 per adult. To book, please visit BicesterVillage.com/shoppingpackage.

• • • • •

SERVICES

12pm Start your day at Marni, a favourite of fashion devotees for its experimentation in texture, colour blocking and asymmetry.

1pm L’Atelier showcases the finest luxury jewellery, watches and diamonds. Discover its selection of high-end brands.

2pm Recharge with the amazing flavours of the Far East at Itsu, with 64 delicious, freshly prepared dishes to choose from.

3pm American brand Coach is synonymous with the ease of New York style.

Those little extra touches that help make your visit special: stay connected with free Wi-Fi; shop effortlessly with the Hands-free Shopping and Luggage Drop services; arrive in style with Valet Parking or the Shopping Express®; and earn rewards while you shop with your chosen frequent flyer programme. You can even claim your tax refund in the Village rather than at the airport and purchase more than 40 currencies. To book, please visit BicesterVillage.com/shoppingpackage.

4pm For timeless menswear, leather goods, writing instruments, timepieces and accessories, visit Dunhill, a definitive name in men’s luxury goods.

FABULOUS FOOD

5pm farmshop restaurant & cafe, created by Soho House & Co exclusively for Bicester Village, serves local British and seasonal food.

Bicester Village has a selection of delectable restaurants and cafés that will tempt your taste buds. Whether you’re looking for a speciality coffee, a gourmet breakfast or a three-course dinner, we’ve got just the place for you.

globalblue.com

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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

Refund Office Details London Heathrow Terminal 1 London Heathrow Terminal 2 London Heathrow Terminal 3 London Heathrow Terminal 4 London Heathrow Terminal 5

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

London Gatwick North Terminal London Gatwick South Terminal

2. Claim

International Currency Exchange, 339 Oxford Street, London W1C 2JB International Currency Exchange, Westfield London, Ariel Way, London W12 7GF No 1 Currency, City of London Information Centre, St Paul’s Churchyard, London EC4M 8BX Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

Spend a minimum of £30 and save up to 14% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 86 92

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TRANSLATIONS

中文翻译 42: One Of A Kind 独一无二的定制珠宝

别墅中摆 满了 艺 术品，她 和同事 们 把 这 里简 称为“房 子”，并辟出地下一层 作为 资深 金 匠的工作 室。一楼 和 二楼 是 珠 宝陈列区 和沙龙，展 示 着 Jessica令人 炫目的 当季 设 计系列，其中包括 Chi Chi系列，它的 设 计灵 感 来源是中国古代 的算命方 式；Trip The Light

紧闭的房门内，伦敦 的顶尖 珠 宝商们 正 和 客户认真探

Fantastic系列，这个系列由亮晶晶的钻石耳 环、袖 扣、

讨着，力求制作出满足每 位客人特 殊要求的美丽 珠宝。

项链 和 戒 指 组 成，当客人戴 上 这 些 珠 宝，一举 一 动都

请 看 Ruairidh Pritchard为 您详 述 其中隐 秘

将流 光 溢 彩，令人目眩 神 迷。

伦敦可以说 是目前世界上 选购 珠 宝 的最 佳 地 点。从 著

通 过 直 接 与客人沟 通，为他们 设 计出带 有专属个人 风

McCormack还为客户提 供一整 套 的 综 合服 务， 名的 钻石 珠 宝 区哈 顿 花园（ Hatton Garden）到老邦

格 的独 一 无 二的 珠 宝。“ 在 进 行 设 计之前，我 通常会花

德 街（ Old Bond Street）珠光 宝气 的 橱 窗，直让 顾客

时间亲自与客人 接 触，请 他们到我们 的藏书室 来坐

们 挑 花了眼 睛。除了商业 街上令人目不 暇 接 的店铺 和

坐、聊 会 天，看 看他们 喜 欢什么、不 喜 欢什么，了解 他

由钻石装 点的璀 璨 橱 窗之外，伦敦 最 优秀 的 金 匠们 还

们 的个人 风 格，” McCormack这 样 描 述自己的工作 过

为客人 提 供专属定制服 务，将客人 的 伦敦 购 物 计 划 升

程，“然 后 我会把每 个客人 的 故事 变 成 各种图案画在素

级 为 奢 华 的 私 人 珠 宝定制 之 旅。

描 本上，直 到得到最 后的完 美设 计。”

新 西兰出生 的 Jessica McCormack正 是 这 样 一 位

这个 过 程因人而异，一如她 的 珠 宝 首饰。她说，“

才华 横 溢 的珠 宝设 计 师，她 的工作 室 就 坐落 在 伦敦 富

沟 通 的 频 率 和 程 度会因每 个客人而异。有 的客人喜 欢

人 区 Mayfair。其 最为有名的 设 计 是充 满 想象力 和 创

参 与到制作 的每 个 阶段中来，而 有 的则 更喜 欢等 待 最

意 的 Party Jackets定制戒 指系列：它 能将原有 戒 指 嵌

后的结果。对 每 个客人 来说，这都 是 他们 专属的 私 人

入 另一 个戒 指，让 原物 摇 身 一变，成 为 一只全 新 的甚

定制 体 验。”

至 更 加美丽的 戒 指。珠 宝 店所在 的 Carlos Place联 排 globalblue.cn

位于城 市另一 端 的 潮 流 地带 东伦敦，珠 宝设 计师

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Ana de Costa也为不 少 眼 光 独 到的客户提 供 珠 宝定 制服 务。2005年从伦敦中央 圣马丁 艺 术 设 计 学 院毕业 后，de Costa曾为 Shaun Leane工作 过一段 时间，期 间因设 计了Alexander McQueen的 T台秀 珠 宝 系列和 Erickson Beamon的时尚 珠 宝 系列 而 声名鹊 起，继而 开 设了自己的工作 室，非预 约不 得见。“定制 珠 宝 和 精 品 珠 宝 的 选 择总体来说 是 相当 情 绪 化 和 个人化 的，而 我 喜 欢 花 时间去了解 我 的客户，” de Costa解 释 道。 “ 我会 和他们 探 讨对珠 宝设 计 的 初 步想法，了解 客 人 的 预 算，用这 些 来指导 我 在 前 期 调 查中 找 到合 适 的 宝 石和 概 念。” 对 客户诉 求的 深入调 查 和 充分 理 解 是

de Costa得以在竞 争中崭露头角的主要原因。举 例 来 说，她 的最 新定制工作 是为 一 位伦敦 客户设 计 订婚 戒 指。而这 只订婚 戒 指上 最 重要 的宝 石正 是 来自准 新 娘 的 祖国俄 罗斯，这是 de Costa在 充分了解 客户后做 出 的 选 择。和 McCormack一样，整 个 设 计 过 程 从头 到 尾 都 是为客人 量 身打造 的专属服 务。“一旦 开始 制作， 我会定 期 与客人沟 通，报 告制作 进 程，或 者根 据客人 的要求，给他们 发 送制作 过 程 的照 片。不过我 发 现，很 多客人其 实更喜 欢享受 看 到最 终成品时 的 惊讶 和喜 悦。”

Sabine Getty是 另一 位优秀 的 伦敦 珠 宝商。她 的 最 新 设 计系列：Baby Memphis是 品类 丰富 的

Memphis系列的延 续，但设 计中加入了她 初为人母 的

也 的确 实至名归。这 条街上云 集了许 多才华 横 溢 的业

特 别心情。这个系列运用了各种 色 彩 鲜 艳 的宝 石，设 计

界大师，连 街名都已成 为顶 级西 装定制的代 名词。无

出可叠 加的 戒 指 和手 链以 及容易 拼 接 的耳 环 与项链，

论男女，无 论古典或 现代 风 格，提 到量体 裁 衣，除了这

为搭配留下无限 的 创意 空间。

里，整 个 伦敦 无出其 右者。

在 Getty为 伦敦 最 挑 剔 的客户们 做 设 计 时，往往

19世 纪 初，萨维 尔街 迎 来了第一 批因看好其 在 富

能 从他们 对 她 的现 成设 计 的反 应中得到灵 感。她说，“

人 区 Mayfair的良 好 位 置而选 择 这 里 开 创事业 的 裁 缝

新 的 设 计系列一 经 推 出，往 往 会 收 到不 少客户的请

师，时至今日，这 里依然是 伦敦 城 最富庶 的街区。虽然

求，希望保留某 个产品的 设 计 但 换 掉上面镶 嵌 的宝

最早 的 一 批 制 衣 店已荡 然 无 存，今 天活跃在 这 条黄金

石，或 是 用客人自己的宝 石代 替。” 当谈 到如 何创作出

大 道 上 的商家大多 也 拥有悠久 的历史，比如 Henry

独 特 的 设 计 时，她说，“这是 需 要 细 致 观 察和时间的。

Poole & Co。这 家于 1846年入驻 此 街 的公司如 今就 坐

设 计师必 须认真 聆 听客人 的 描 述，弄清 楚他们到底 想

落 在 萨维 尔街 15号。

要 什么。整 个 过 程中我会与客户进 行多次 沟 通，但 通 常 在 初次 交谈时 我 就 能充分感 知客人 的真正诉 求。” 看 到客人收 到完 全 符 合自己预 期 的成品时 满足 的

创 始 人亨 利 • 普 尔( Henry Poole)自1846年起 便一 直 经 营 这 家公司直 到 1876年。在 此 期间，他曾为当时 的未 来法国皇帝 拿 破仑三世 裁 制 衣 袍，还曾受雇于 维

表 情 是 最令 Getty开心的事。“最 让 人有成 就 感 的 是，

多利亚 女王，也是 当时 的威 尔士 亲王，即后来的国王

客人觉 得自己 获得了一 件十分 特 别的 东西：一 款专门

爱 德 华 七 世 的御用裁 缝。普 尔经 营公司的三十 年间，

为他们 设 计 的、彰显自身个 性 的 珠 宝。”

对 于萨维 尔街成长为闻名遐 迩 的高级西 装定制中心来 说 功不 可没，而他 的公司正 是其中一 颗 璀 璨 的明

48: A Cut Above

星。20世 纪 初的萨维 尔街 是世界上 最大的高级西 装定

匠心独运

制场所，总共雇 佣了 300名裁 缝 师 和 14名剪 裁 师。

萨维 尔街虽因其悠久而卓越 的西 装定制历史闻名于

愿意不远千里 来 到伦敦，只为 得到一 件 Poole为他们 量

世，这 条大 街上 的每 个品牌 却 都 将目光 坚 定 地 投向未

身定制的高级西 装。众 所周知的 晚 宴 礼 服（ 又 称 “ 燕 尾

时至今日，世界 各国品味 挑 剔 的 精 英男士 们 依然

来。Maria Kirchen- Hill报 道

服”）正 是 Poole公司的杰 作，因此自然 也是 公司最受 欢 迎 的定制 选 择 之一。不过，公司优秀 的制 衣 团队 的

伦敦萨维 尔街（ Savile Row）是世界上 最 著名的男装

实力可 不只如此，除 常 礼 服 和 晚 礼 服 之外，还 能为客

定制 之 所，被 称为“ 西 装定制的 黄金 大 道 ”，而这一 切

人 量 身定制 西 装 外 套、运 动 夹克、衬 衫 和大 衣等 多种

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服 饰 — — 当然，还 有最 经典 的西 装套 装，以 及各种各 样 的 精 美 饰品。客人可以 从 6000多种 布料中自由选

52: To The Power Of Two 强强联合

择 — — 每 种面 料都 是 个中精品 — —而一 丝不 苟 的专业 裁 缝 师们 将 确 保 每 一刀 剪 裁 都能与每 位客人 的尺寸 完

从 朋克 摇 滚 时尚到政 治活 动，Vivienne Westwood四

美 贴 合。

十 年来一直 是 英国文化 的 一 个重要 象征。她 的丈 夫 兼

与 Henry Poole & Co一样，萨维 尔街也 在与时俱

设 计伙伴 Andreas Kronthaler最 近也 开始 频 繁出现

进 的演 变中迎 来了众多国际 顶尖 时尚品牌 的 加 盟。“成

在 聚光 灯 下，Hannah Lewis对这 组时尚界 的最 酷 夫

衣 ”的 概 念首次 出现 是在 1970年 代，其 代 表品牌 有

妻 档 一 探究竟

Gieves & Hawkes和 Hardy Amies。除 此 之外，最 近 还 有不 少国外 知名品牌入驻 这 条大 街。法国高档时装

很可能 就 变 成 昨日黄 花，但 Vivienne Westwood却 是

址，提 供 包括男士成 衣系列、品牌专属 奢 华 领结、种 类

个异 数。Westwood于 1971年 首次 登上 时尚舞台，并

繁多的 饰品和皮制品在内的各 类商品，甚至 还 提 供西

与当时 的合作伙伴 Malcolm McLaren一 起，为朋克

装定制的服 务。对 于浪 凡 来说，选 择萨维 尔街 作为旗

时代 风 格 作出了重要定 义。从那时起 至今的四十 年

舰 店 的所在 是 一 种必然。“它是 个 传 奇，”浪 凡 的 设 计

中，Westwood一直 处在 时尚与 文化 的 前 沿 地带，从 未

师 Alber Elbaz在 旗 舰 店 揭 幕 时 说，“ 在 我 看来，伦敦

衰 落。她 所 创造 的品牌 如此 成 功，已成 为 世界上 最大

再 也 找 不出第二个可与之媲 美 的地 方了。”

的时尚 标 签之一，而设 计师本人也 被认 为 是 当今 世界

双 胞 胎兄弟 Dean和 Dan Caten联 手 打造了知名 时尚品牌 Dsquared2，他们 在考虑开 设实体店 时也 有

最具影 响力的 创作 者 和活 动 家。

1988年，Westwood开始在 维 也 纳应 用艺 术 学 院

类似想法。“开 设伦敦 旗 舰 店 对 我们两兄弟来说 是 特 别

（ Vienna School of Applied Arts）任教。在 那里 她

的，因这是我们居 住 的 城 市，源源 不 断 地 激 发 着 我们 的各种 设 计灵 感，”他们 说，“选 择萨维 尔街 和 Conduit

认识了正在学习时尚 设 计 的 Andreas Kronthaler。 Kronthaler的原创设 计 吸引了 Westwood的目光，她

街 的 交汇 点作为店 址 绝 非 偶 然。天 长日久，萨维 尔街

决定 邀请 他去 伦敦 继 续 深 造。他受文 艺 复兴 的启发 所

已 经 成 为了追求 时尚的男士 们 的 首选 地 之一。它凭借 评 — —而我们 的 设 计也 处 处 体 现 着 这 种 珍 贵 的 价

设 计 的 “太阳 轮”连 衣 裙 被 收 入了 1989年 的 Vivienne Westwood系列设 计。就 这 样，两人 开始了合作伙伴 的 关系，而这 种 合作 逐 渐成 为了该品牌 的 核心。1993年

值。” 这 家 精品店囊 括了该品牌所有 的产品系列，包括

两人步入了婚 姻 的殿 堂，时至今日依旧是 彼 此事业 和

采用纯 新羊 毛 和弹力 棉 的现代 剪 裁 设 计，以 及 女 士服

生活 的 最 佳 伴 侣。

一 流 的质 量、良 好 的传 统 和原创性 赢得了世界 好

装。

Westwood和 Kronthaler的强 强联 手 进 一 步巩固 萨维 尔街虽然 在 过去的几十 年间发 生了诸 多 变

化，但其 核心始 终还 是高级西 装定制 艺 术。对此，40

Savile Row公司的商业 拓展 经 理 Tess Harriott评 价 道，这 样 的物品 是不 受 年 龄、地位 或任 何 其它世俗 禁 锢 的。“ 40 Savile Row的客户包括向往 时尚的 青少 年，刚刚 毕业 为自己挑 选 第一 套面试西 装 的学 生，从 事 银 行业、法 律 或保 险 业 的专业 人 士 等 等。还 有些 顾 客 将 拥有一 件萨维 尔街 的西 装 当作 梦想，每 逢 重要场 合才 肯穿上。” 这个由家 族 经 营 的制 衣公司的 一 流 服 务正 是萨维 尔街 闪亮的活招 牌。“无 论 何人，来 者是客，”经 理

Harriott说，“ 我们 每 一 个人都 有 15年以 上 的从 业 经 验，足以 照 顾 体 态各异、品味不同的各 类 顾客需 求，也 知道 如 何引导 他们 做 出最 适合自己的 选 择。我们 都 是 完 美 主义者，因此 绝 不允许 任 何低 于 最高标准 的 衣饰 PHOTO: MEINKE KLEIN @UNIT

在 这喜新厌旧的时尚圈，今 天的当红 炸 子鸡 到了明天

品牌 浪 凡（ Lanvin）就 将这 里作为其伦敦 男装 旗 舰 店

被 卖 给顾客，尤 其是在西 装 的 剪 裁 与贴身 性 方面。西 装 的审 美完 全由顾客 本人决定，而这 正 是它的独 特之 处。” 既能 秉 承西 装定制超 越 时间的经典 之美，又能 对 各种时尚风 潮 保 持 开放而包 容 的态度，难怪 萨维 尔街 历经时间的 洗 涤，至今 仍 享 誉 全 球。

并 加强了品牌 实力。对 Kronthaler来说，这一 切的关 键是 平 衡 和 相互尊 重：“ Vivienne是 一 个 相当有 革 新

86

眼 光的人，她 的个人 形 象 和产品设 计个人 风 格 强烈，

收品，染 色 和生 产时也 尽量 采用 环 保 的 方 法。而 剪 裁

很容易识 别。她 既 是 朋克也是 学 者。我 第一次 见 到她

衣 服 时也会在 方 式 上 花一 番心思，尽量 避 免制造 垃

的时候 就了解了这 点。我也 很有 眼 光，于 是我们 将 彼

圾。“买 少买精，历久 弥 新”是她 提 出的 重要口号。

此 的资源 结 合了起 来，无 论 是 智 慧 上 的还 是 身 体上

Westwood的真正 才 能是，将这 样 的政 治 宣 言与

的。人们 常常问我，要怎么样 才 能 既做 夫妻又作同事。

设 计完 美 结 合。她 将 艺 术 和时尚 看作表 达 思想的 重要

我 想 这是因为 我们两人都 非常包 容，这 对 彼 此 都 是 一

平台，而这 些严 峻 的问 题 始 终占 据 着她 那 颗 积 极而 热

种 激 励：一 个 学习的 过 程。”

血 的心。她 将反气候 变化使命 的 宣 言，用极其 艺 术的

该品牌 的 金 牌系列（ Gold Label）会在每 季 的巴

方 式，挥 洒 在 这一 季 的中性长裤 和 上 衣 上，而其它部

黎 时装 周上 展 示，自 2016/ 17年 秋冬 季 起 被 更名为

分则 选 用了大 胆 的印 花设 计（包括抽 象 和清 晰 两 种图

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood。更名

案）、拼花、格 子布和 适 量 金 属甲片。其中尤为引人注

的部 分原因是 要 强调 这个品牌 是两人合作 的结果。

目的 是 一 条 红色修身 连 衣 裙，外加 一 件同色夹克，

“这么些 年来，Andreas对 于公司的 重要 性 和责任都 在

Westwood为之 搭配了一双 红色 的长靴、一 条 红色 披 风 和 一顶针 织巴 拉 克 拉 法 帽。她 的 T台造 型夸 张大

不 断 增 加，而我 希望能 让公 众了解这一点。”

Westwood如此回答。但 此 举 也 表明了两人 的独 立 性。“ 我 和 Vivienne一 起 做 设 计已 经有 25年以 上了，” 他说，“ 我们 想要明 确 彼 此 的区 别。Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood这个系列：只代 表我。而它 相 对来说 更偏高级 定制风。” 品牌 各方面的事 务两位设 计师多少 都 有参 与，但

胆，但其中的每 一 件单品却 都 是能 够 在日常生活中穿 戴 的。 这是两个风 格 明 显不同的系列，然而仅仅只是 把 两 种风 格简单 的陈列在一 起，就 能 立 刻 看出两者的共 通 之美。Vivienne Westwood的 设 计风 格 一直 是 时尚 界最为浓 墨 重 彩 的 一 笔。“ 我们 都 在变，” Kronthaler

是将两者在设 计上分 别开 来，将 使 这 种 差异 有 机会 转

说。而我们 将 拭目以待，看 看他们究竟会有怎样 的改

变 成公司的 一大 特 色。“工作 的时候，我们 一 开始总是

变。

南 辕 北 辙，但 最 后 还 是 会回到一 起 — — 我们 的工作 方 式 非常不同，” Kronthaler在 解 释 设 计 过 程时 说，“ 我 喜 欢不 断 的尝 试 和改变，很 难感 到满足，而这 些 让

82: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Vivienne很 抓 狂。她 的工作 方 式 很不一样：先 思 考如

畅购全球，尊享退税

何做，然 后做决定，之 后便 按照自己的决定去实 施 — — 她做事是 一 板一 眼 的，逻辑 性 很 强。而我 更喜 欢

当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购 物区中的 30万多 家商店消费时，环

先 把 所有 能 想 到的 东西都 提 出来，在一片混乱中寻 找

球 蓝 联（ Global Blue）购 物 退 税 服 务（ Tax Free Shopping）为 您 节约购 物 开 销。 每 年 有两千六百多万名游 客通 过 环 球 蓝 联（ Global Blue）获得 购 物 退 税，您 怎能 错 过？您 要 做 的只是 寻 找 蓝 星标 志 或 者问询商家是 否 提 供环 球 蓝 联（ Global Blue）服 务，然 后 遵 循 我们 简单 的退 税 过 程：

正 确 秩 序。”

2017/ 18年 秋冬 季 的 Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood系列设 计灵 感 来自于 设 计师的家 乡。“设 计 到最 后 我 终于明白了一点，我 是 一 位奥 地 利 设 计师，” Kronthaler在 介 绍 这一系列时 说，“ 我 的 设 计应该 体 现 出我 的国籍，勾画出我 的形 象。祖国的山 水、人民、传 统 服 饰：这 些 是我 的 根。我 花了很长时间

1. 消费购 物

才 意 识 到本 源的 重要 性。” 作为向 “维 也 纳 工作 联 盟”

无 论 您 在 哪里消费，请 索要 环 球 蓝 联 退 税 表格

（ Wiener Werkstätte）的致 敬 之作 — — 这个联 盟中包

（ Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记 得 保存小 票。

含了维 也 纳 在 20世 纪 初的 一大 批艺 术 家— —本 次 的系 列设 计将向人们展 示 独 特 的奥 地 利风情，比如雪绒

2. 申请 退 税

花，比如受 阿尔 卑 斯山农家少 女传 统 服 饰 的启发创作

当您准 备回家时，您需 要先 去出发 城 市 的海 关柜台请

的廓 形 等。不过，Kronthaler受奥 地 利艺 术 家们启

他们 在 您 的退 税 表格上 盖章，然 后再到 环 球 蓝 联 的退

发— — 比如 古 斯 塔 夫 •克 利姆 特（ Gustav Klimt）

税 点领 取 您 的退 税 款。

— —而设 计出的大 胆 的油 漆泼 洒 纹、印 花 和 鲜 艳 的 色 彩 混 搭 等，都 带 着强烈的 Vivienne Westwood的

联 系方 式：

印记。 而本 季 的 Vivienne Westwood主 线设 计中， Westwood再 次以 T台和自己的 设 计为 平台，通 过 布景

taxfree@ globalblue. com + 421 232 111 111 最 低消费 £ 30即 可 节省高达 14%的商品购买 价。请注

安 排，讲 述了一 个有关 生 态 战士抗击 气候 变化 威 胁 的

意：最 终退 款 将 包含 增 值 税 总 额，但 是 要 扣 除 管 理手

故事。Westwood是 著名的活 动 家，她 的公司也 坚 持以

续 费。部 分机 场 还 将以 退 税申请 表 为单位收取 现 金 退

绿 色 环 保 的 方 式 工作 — — 她 所 使 用的 材 料 很多来自回

税手 续 费。

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 42: One Of A Kind Только для вас Руайрид Притчард рассказывает о ведущих лондонских ювелирах, которые приглашают клиентов в свои мастерские Бриллиантовые витрины Олд-Бонд-Стрит, ювелирный квартал Хаттон-Гарден – Лондон по праву считается одним из лучших городов мира для покупки украшений. Но в стороне от шума торговых улиц и громких вывесок работают те ювелиры, которые предпочитают создавать произведения на заказ. Джессика Маккормак приехала из Новой Зеландии и стала одним из самых известных ювелиров в Мэйфэр. Славу ей принесли кольца Party Jackets, которые надеваются поверх уже имеющихся колец и преображают их до неузнаваемости. Она окружила себя профессионалами ювелирного искусства и организовала мастерскую в цокольном этаже великолепного особняка на Carlos Place. Вместе они украсили его произведениями искусства и называют просто «домом». Первые два этажа дома занимает салон, где выставлены сезонные коллекции Маккормак. Особого внимания достойна серия Chi Chi, вдохновленная древним китайским гаданием, а также бриллиантовые серьги, браслеты, ожерелья и кольца под общим названием Trip The Light Fantastic, которые двигаются вместе со своим обладателем и создают гипнотическое мерцание. Маккормак также создает украшения по индивидуальному заказу. И они получаются по-настоящему оригинальными, благодаря тесному сотрудничеству с клиентом: «Мне нравится проводить время с покупателями в нашей библиотеке за разговорами и обсуждениями. Мы обсуждаем предпочтения, а заодно я лично знакомлюсь с их стилем, – рассказывает о творческом процессе Маккормак. – Затем я превращаю личную историю в многочисленные эскизы, из которых вырастает финальный дизайн». Творческий процесс всегда индивидуален, как и сами украшения: «С каждым новым покупателем globalblue.ru

отношения строятся по-новому. Некоторым нравится вовлекаться в процесс на каждом этапе, а другие предпочитают дождаться готового украшения. У каждого человека собственный путь», – утверждает она. В противоположной части Лондона, в трендовом Ист-Энде, находится мастерская ювелирного дизайнера Аны де Коста. Она окончила колледж Central Saint Martins в 2005 году и работала с Шон Лином над подиумными коллекциями для Alexander McQueen и с брендом костюмных украшений Erickson Beamon. Затем она открыла собственное ателье: «Авторские украшения и предметы ювелирного искусства в целом – всегда очень эмоциональное и личное приобретение. Поэтому мне особенно нравится проводить

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время с покупателями. Мы обсуждаем первоначальные идеи и бюджеты, поскольку это ляжет в основу подбора образов и камней», – объясняет дизайнер. Столь глубокое исследование и умение быстро понять потребности клиентов и делают де Коста особенной. Среди ее недавних произведений – необычное обручальное кольцо для живущего в Лондоне заказчика. Для дизайна она задействовала драгоценные камни с родины будущей невесты – из России. Как и Маккормак, де Коста подстраивает весь творческий процесс от начала и до конца под интересы клиентов. «С первого дня я регулярно выхожу на связь, чтобы держать их в курсе происходящего. Если они желают, я отправляю фотографии творческого процесса. Но многие любят сюрпризы и предпочитают дождаться готового украшения». Сабин Гетти – еще один известный лондонский ювелир. Ее коллекция Baby Memphis выросла из роскошной коллекции Memphis и основывается на новом опыте дизайнера в роли молодой матери. Кольца и браслеты с яркими камнями можно собирать самостоятельно, а серьги и ожерелья легко сочетать – и это дает бесконечный потенциал для создания разнообразных образов. Увидев работы Гетти, даже самые требовательные знатоки обращаются к ней с индивидуальными заказами: «После выхода коллекции я обычно получаю запросы на похожие украшения, но с другими камнями или камнями клиентов». По ее наблюдениям, для создания уникальных вещей «требуется время и внимание»: «Необходимо прислушиваться к тому, чего хочет клиент, чего он пытается добиться. Поэтому мы всегда общаемся в процессе работы, но именно в первую встречу я составляю представление о его желаниях». Больше всего Гетти вдохновляет незабываемый момент, когда заказчик наконец получает столь желанную вещь: «Самое прекрасное – это видеть, как он осознает, что он обладает особенным ювелирным произведением, сделанным исключительно для него».

globalblue.ru

48: A Cut Above Золотой стежок Великая история улицы Сэвил-Роу помогает ее обитателям уверенно смотреть в будущее, – рассказывает Мария Кирхен-Хилл Сэвил-Роу называют «золотой портновской милей» Лондона: во всем городе нет лучшего места для заказа одежды по индивидуальной мерке. Самые талантливые портные сделали эту улицу олицетворением великолепной одежды – мужской и женской, классической и современной. Первые портные пришли на СэвилРоу в начале 19 века, поскольку здесь же, в Мэйфэре, жили и до сих пор живут стильные и обеспеченные горожане. До наших дней

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не сохранилось ни одной первоначальной компании, но все же здесь много салонов с впечатляющей историей. Henry Poole & Co – один из таких: он работает здесь с 1846 года по одному и тому же адресу Savile Row, 15. Основатель компании Генри Пул, давший ей свое имя, работал с 1846 до 1876 и одевал будущего императора Франции Наполеона III, королеву Викторию и Принца Уэльского, который впоследствии стал королем Эдвардом VII. На протяжении трех десятилетий он принимал непосредственное участие в становлении Сэвил-Роу и превращении улицы в рай для ценителей костюмов по индивидуальной мерке. Конечно, сам Пул стал одной из ее самых ярких звезд. К началу 20 века его ателье было одним из самых крупных в мире: в нем работали 300 портных и 14 закройщиков. До сих пор джентльмены из всех частей света устремляются в Лондон, чтобы заказать костюм в Poole. Именно этому ателье приписывается изобретение вечернего пиджака – смокинга. Кроме того, здесь можно заказать утренний или вечерний образ: блейзеры, спортивные куртки, рубашки, пальто, красивые аксессуары к ним и, разумеется, костюмы. Клиенты выбирают из 6000 образцов тканей неизменно высочайшего качества – и команда воплощает любой предмет одежды по вашим конкретным меркам.

Henry Poole & Co развивался с течением времени, как и вся улица Сэвил-Роу. За прошедшие годы на ней появились многочисленные модные бренды. Коллекции готовой одежды представили британские бренды Gieves & Hawkes и Hardy Amies в 1970-е, но иностранные марки пришли сюда относительно недавно. Французский модный дом Lanvin открыл на Сэвил-Роу флагманский магазин, где предлагает готовую мужскую одежду, кожгалантерею, роскошные галстуки-бабочки и другие аксессуары, а также услуги пошива костюмов по мерке. Для Lanvin выбор места был очевидным: «Сэвил-Роу – это легенда, – объяснил Альбер Эльбаз, который работал дизайнером марки во время открытия. – На мой взгляд, в Лондоне для нас просто нет

другого места». Того же мнения придерживаются Дин и Дан Катен – братья-близнецы и креативные директора марки Dsquared2: «Флагманский магазин в Лондоне очень важен для нас, поскольку мы живем в городе, под его влиянием и вдохновением. И мы неслучайно выбрали пересечение Сэвил-Роу и Conduit Street. С годами эта улица стала очень важным направлением для стильных мужчин и олицетворением высокого качества, традиций и оригинальности – то есть тех ценностей, которые мы также разделяем». В бутике Dsquared2 представлены все коллекции бренда, в том числе современные костюмы из новых видов шерсти и тянущегося хлопка, а также женская одежда. В последние десятилетия открылись совсем новые магазины, однако в сердце Сэвил-Роу по-прежнему костюм, созданный по индивидуальной мерке. Как объясняет Тесс Харриот, менеджер по развитию бизнеса в 40 Savile Row, качественный костюм притягивает всех – вне зависимости от возраста, профессии. «В 40 Savile Row приходят самые разные покупатели – от модного тинейджера и выпускника университета, который выбирает костюм для первого собеседования, до банкиров, юристов и страховых агентов. У нас также есть посетители, которые всегда мечтали о костюме с Сэвил-Роу – и приобретают его по особому случаю». Это семейное предприятие можно привести в пример исключительного сервиса, характерного для этой улицы: «Мы рады всем, – утверждает Харриот. – 15-летний опыт в этом бизнесе позволяет работать с любыми фигурами, угождать любому вкусу и помогать покупателям с выбором. Мы все – перфекционисты, поэтому ни один костюм не покидает ателье, пока мы не убедимся в его совершенстве, особенно в том, как он сидит. Причем заказчик непосредственного участвует в разработке костюма, и это делает его уникальным». Это и есть формула успеха: стиль вне времени и умение работать с любыми моделями и трендами. Неудивительно, что Сэвил-Роу с легкостью поддерживает свою мировую славу.

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52: To The Power Of Two Удвоенная сила

Мир моды изменчив: сегодняшние звезды завтра уже устареют. На этом фоне такие явления, как Вивьен Вествуд, – большая редкость. Она ворвалась на модную сцену в 1971 году и вместе со своим партнером Малкольмом Маклареном предопределила образ эпохи панка. С тех пор, вот уже более четырех десятилетий, без Вествуд невозможно представить британскую моду и культуру. Бренд Vivienne Westwood стал одним из самых крупных в мире, а сама дизайнер – одним из самых влиятельных художников и активистов в современном мире. В 1988 году Вествуд начала преподавать в Венском университете прикладных искусств. Там она и встретила Андреаса Кронталера, изучавшего модный дизайн. Оригинальные модели Кронталера заинтересовали Вествуд, и она пригласила его в Лондон для дальнейшего их развития. В 1989 году его платья-солнце, вдохновленные искусством Возрождения, появились в коллекции Vivienne Westwood. И так началось партнерство, ставшее ключевым для бренда. Вествуд и Кронталер поженились в 1993, и сегодня они остаются партнерами и в работе, и в жизни. Вместе Вествуд и Кронталер делают бренд все сильнее и сильнее. Кронталер связывает это с уравновешенностью и взаимным уважением: «Вивьенн – личность с революционным подходом ко всему, ее образ и стиль легко узнаваемы. Она – панк и ученый, и к моменту нашей встречи она уже состоялась. У меня также есть свой подход, и мы объединили наши ресурсы – интеллектуальные и физические. Нас часто спрашивают, как можно жить и работать вместе постоянно. Мы оба очень толерантны, и это дает силу: мы постоянно учимся». globalblue.ru

Линия Gold Label каждый сезон представляется на Парижской неделе моды. В этот раз она была переименована в Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, что отчасти связано с этим желанием продемонстрировать совместную работу над брендом. «Постепенно сфера ответственности Андреаса расширяется, и я бы хотела, чтобы это отразилось и на общественном восприятии», – так Вествуд объясняла этот шаг. В то же время новое название подчеркивает, что это плод труда двух творческих личностей: «Я работаю с Вивьен уже более 25 лет, – объясняет Кронталер. – Мы хотели ясно показать линию каждого. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood: это я. Эта коллекция более авторская». Они оба в какой-то мере включены во все аспекты деятельности бренда, но такое разделение позволяет своеобразию каждого процветать: «Мы всегда работаем по отдельности, поскольку у каждого свой ритм, а потом мы снова встречаемся, – рассказывает Кронталер о творческом процессе. – Я постоянно пробую новое и без конца преображаю и дорабатываю вещи. Я редко бываю доволен полностью, и это сводит Вивьен с ума. Она другая: она достигает чего-то, принимает окончательное решение, а потом основывается на них – она очень последовательна и логична. Я постоянно создаю хаос, прежде чем привести все дела в порядок». Коллекция осень-зима 2017-18 лейбла Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood создана под влиянием австрийской культуры: «В какой-то момент я осознал, что

PHOTO: KAMIL KUSTOSZ

Вивьен Вествуд с ее панк-роком и политическим активизмом в моде остается культовой фигурой британской культуры уже более 40 лет. Постепенно в центре внимания оказывается ее супруг и партнер по дизайну Андреас Кронталер. Ханна Льюис рассказывает о самой неординарной паре модного мира

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воспринимаю себя дизайнером с австрийскими корнями, – комментирует Кронталер. – Мне хотелось проявить свою национальную принадлежность и идентичность. Пейзажи, народ, костюмы – все это мои корни. И мне потребовалось время, чтобы осознать важность моего происхождения». Кроме того, коллекция посвящена Wiener Werkstätte – венскому сообществу художников и мастеров начала 20 века, поэтому в ней появились австрийские народные мотивы: альпийские цветы и силуэты дирндля. äаметны и влияния австрийский живописи (в то числе Густава Климта): они заметны в брызгах ярких красок, смелых принтах и насыщенных цветах. И все это только подчеркивает присущую Vivienne Westwood пышность и избыточность стиля. Представляя основную коллекцию Vivienne Westwood в этом сезоне, Вивьен Вествуд вновь превратила свои работы и показ в повод для высказывания. На этот раз это истории эко-воинов, которые сражаются с климатическими изменениями. Вествуд – заметный активист зеленого движения: в ее компании задействованы переработанные материалы, безопасные для окружающей среды красители и экологичные производственные процессы. Даже раскрой ткани происходит таким образом, чтобы максимально избежать отходов. «Покупайте меньше, выбирайте тщательно, пользуйтесь долго» – вот ее основной девиз. Вествуд – гений переплетения политических заявлений и модных коллекций. Для нее искусство и мода – серьезный плацдарм для различных идей, и она с пылом выступает по серьезным общественным вопросам. Ее отношение к борьбе с климатическими изменениями наиболее ярко отразилось в декоре брюк и топов унисекс, а в других вещах она отдала предпочтение смелым принтам (абстрактным и фотографическим), аппликациям-пэчворк, складкам и золотому ламэ. В одном из впечатляющих образов соединились красное платье, жакет, красные сапоги до колена, красная накидка и вязаная балаклава. Конечно, столь яркое подиумное сочетание призвано сделать важное заявление более заметным, но по отдельности все вещи

Vivienne Westwood, бесспорно, удобны в сочетании. Это две очень разные коллекции, вдохновленные очень разными культурными и общественными явлениями. При этом если сопоставить ключевые образы с каждой стороны, то проявляется их эстетическое единство. Стиль Vivienne Westwood остается одним из самых узнаваемых в мире моды: «Мы идем дальше вместе», – говорит об этом Кронталер. А нам остается только ждать и наблюдать, куда этот путь приведет их в будущем.

82: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум 30 £ и сэкономьте до 14% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

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‫رشكتها مبراعاة البيئة بحيث تتم إعادة تدوير الكثري من املواد التي‬ ‫الذي كان يَدرس تصميم األزياء‪ .‬لفتت تصاميمه املبتكرة انتباهها‬ ‫ُفصل‬ ‫ف َد َعته إىل لندن للميض بها قدماً‪ .‬وقد شملت مجموعة ‪ Vivienne‬تستخدمها أو تقوم بعمليّات دباغة وتصنيع صديقة للبيئة‪ .‬ت ّ‬ ‫‪ Wetwood‬سنة ‪ 1989‬فساتينه “دوالب الشمس” املستوحاة من املالبس بطريقة تنتج أقل كميّة ممكنة من النفايات‪ .‬من شعارات‬ ‫أقل واختاروا الجيّد واملتني“‪.‬‬ ‫عرصالنهضة‪ .‬ومذّاك تولّدت بينهام رشاكة أصبحت يف ما بعد جزءا ً ال العالمة األساسيّة‪“ :‬اشرتوا ّ‬ ‫تكمن موهبة ‪ Westwood‬الحقيقيّة يف إدخال هذه‬ ‫يتج ّزأ من العالمة‪ .‬تز ّو“ الثنايئ سنة ‪ 1993‬وما زاال اليوم رشيكني يف‬ ‫الترصيحات السياسيّة يف مجموعاتها بسالسة مطلقة‪ .‬ترى يف الف ّن‬ ‫الحياة العمليّة والزوجيّة‪.‬‬ ‫مهامً لألفكار‪ ،‬ومل تنتقص القضايا امله ّمة من رؤيتها‬ ‫سويّاً‪ ،‬حملت ‪ Westwood‬و‪ Kronthaler‬العالمة من‬ ‫واألزياء منربا ً ّ‬ ‫لتغري املناخ‬ ‫نجاح إىل آخر‪ .‬يتحدّث ‪ Kronthaler‬عن التوازن واالحرتام املتبادل الثائرة والحيويّة قطّ‪ .‬فظهرت ترصيحاتها املناهضة ّ‬ ‫يف عالقتهام فيقول‪“ :‬تتمتّع‪ Vivienne‬برؤية ثوريّة وتحظى أعاملها بطريقة فنيّة جميلة عىل الرساويل والقمصان يف هذه املجموعة‬ ‫املناسبة للجنسني‪ ،‬يف حني لجأت يف قطعٍ أخرى إىل النقوش الجريئة‬ ‫وإسمها بشهر ٍة واسعة‪ .‬إنّها من ر ّواد البانك والفكر يف آنٍ واحد وقد‬ ‫الخاصة وجمعنا (املج ّردة والتصويريّة) واألبليك الرتقيعي ونقوش املربّعات وحفنة‬ ‫اتّضح يل ذلك منذ أن التقيتها‪ .‬فقدّمت بدوري رؤيتي ّ‬ ‫اللامع‪ .‬ومن التصاميم املميّزة فستان أنيق‬ ‫رس نجاح العالقة‬ ‫سخيّة من القامش الذهبي ّ‬ ‫مواردنا الفكريّة واملاديّة‪ .‬يسألني البعض عن ّ‬ ‫نسقته ‪ Westwood‬مع جزمة‬ ‫بني زوجني يعيشان ويعمالن مع بعضهام البعض‪ .‬فأجيبهام بأنّنا‬ ‫أحمر اللّون مع جاكيت مالمئة وقد ّ‬ ‫حمراء عالية السا” ووشاح أحمر وقناع محبوك‪ .‬صحيح أ ّن تصاميمها‬ ‫متسامحان ونتعلّم من بعضنا البعض‪”.‬‬ ‫كل قطعة منفردة قابلة لالرتداء‪.‬‬ ‫املنصة صارخة‪ ،‬لكن ّ‬ ‫غريت العالمة إسم خطّها ‪ Gold‬التي تُعرض عىل ّ‬ ‫لخريف‪/‬شتاء ‪ّ ،2016/2017‬‬ ‫عىل الرغم من اختالف هاتني املجموعتني واختالف مصادر‬ ‫كل موسم يف أسبوع باريس للموضة ليصبح‬ ‫‪ Label‬الذي يُعرض ّ‬ ‫إلهامهام‪ ،‬يربز األسلوب الجاميل املشرتك بينهام حاملا تضعهام جنباً إىل‬ ‫‪.Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood‬‬ ‫جنب‪ .‬يبقى أسلوب ‪ Vivienne Westwood‬من األقوى يف عامل‬ ‫ويعود ذلك جزئيّاً إىل الرغبة بتقديم العالمة كمرشوع مشرتك‪.‬‬ ‫األزياء‪ .‬يقول ‪ Kronthaler‬معلّقاً‪“ :‬تط ّورنا مع بعضنا البعض”‪ .‬فام‬ ‫قالت ‪ Westwood‬آنذاك‪“ :‬مع مرور الوقت‪ ،‬ك َُربت مسؤوليّات‬ ‫علينا إال أن ننتظر لرنى أين سيحملهام هذا التط ّور‪.‬‬ ‫‪ ،Andreas‬فوددت أن يعرف الجميع بذلك‪ ”.‬كام شكّل ذلك‬ ‫كل منهام‪ .‬يرشح ‪ Kronthaler‬قائالً‪“ :‬ص ّممت مع‬ ‫اعرتافاً بفرديّة ّ‬ ‫كل م ّنا‪.‬‬ ‫‪ Vivienne‬ملا يزيد عن ‪ 25‬سنة‪ .‬فرغبنا بتوضيح خ ّط ّ‬ ‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪ Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood‬خ ّط‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 82‬‬ ‫خاص يب وتركّز املجموعة عىل األزياء الفاخرة‪”.‬‬ ‫عندما تتس ّو” حول العامل‪ ،‬تس ّو” من دون دفع الرضيبة‬ ‫كل مص ّمم بكل ناحية من العالمة التجاريّة‪،‬‬ ‫بطريق ٍة ما‪ ،‬يهتم ّ‬ ‫لكن يربز االختالف بينهام بفضل هذا الفصل‪ .‬يقول ‪ Kronthaler‬تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّو” من دون‬ ‫دفع الرضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكرث من‬ ‫عن عمليّة التصميم‪“ :‬نعمل دوماً بشكلٍ منفصل ومن ث ّم نجتمع؛‬ ‫‪ 300,000‬متجر يف أبرز مناطق التس ّو” حول العامل‪.‬‬ ‫كل م ّنا بطريقة مختلفة متاماً‪ .‬أميل دوماً إىل تجربة عدّة‬ ‫يعمل ّ‬ ‫فل َم ال تنض ّم إىل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬ ‫أمور وتغيريها باستمرار؛ ال أرىض أبدا ً بالنتيجة‪ ،‬األمر الذي يُغضب‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫دفع الرضيبة من خالل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫‪ .Vivienne‬أ ّما هي‪ ،‬فتقارب فكرة معيّنة وتتّخذ قرارا ً وتبني عىل‬ ‫عليك إال أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫أساسه؛ إنّها دقيقة ومنطقيّة‪ .‬أحاول أن أطلق عدّة أفكار وأسبّب‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫الفوضة قبل أن أق ّرر‪”.‬‬ ‫لخريف‪/‬شتاء ‪ ،2017/2018‬استوحت ‪Andreas‬‬ ‫‪ Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood‬من مسقط رأس ‪ .1‬تس ّو”‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫“يتبني يف النهاية أنّني أينام تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عىل طلب اسرتداد الرضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫املص ّمم‪ .‬يقول ‪ Kronthaler‬عن املجموعة‪ّ :‬‬ ‫أرى نفيس كمص ّمم منساوي‪ .‬متحورت الفكرة حول االعرتاف بجنسيّتي بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصاالت‪.‬‬ ‫وصقل هويّتي‪ .‬املناظر والناس واألزياء هناك‪ ،‬هي جذوري‪ .‬استغرقت‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫بعض الوقت ألفهم أهميّة البلد الذي آيت منه‪ُ ”.‬ص ّممت املجموعة‬ ‫يف طريق العودة إىل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجامرك عند نقطة‬ ‫كإشارة واضحة إىل ‪ -Wiener Werkstätte‬وهي مجموعة‬ ‫املغادرة لتتم املصادقة عىل إيصاالتك قبل قبض االسرتداد من أحد‬ ‫من الف ّنانني يف فيينا يف بداية التسعينات‪ -‬وتشمل عنارص منساويّة‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫واضحة كأزهار جبال األلب وتصاميم مستوحاة من الثوب النمساوي مكاتب االسرتداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التقليدي‪ .‬كام أدّت مصادر إلهام ‪ Kronthaler‬النمساويّة‪ ،‬ومنها‬ ‫الرسام ‪ ،Gustav Klimt‬إىل استخدام بقع الطالء الكبرية والنقوش لالت ّصال‪:‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫الجريئة وفيض من األلوان‪ ،‬فرتجمت مجتمعة أسلوب ‪Vivienne‬‬ ‫‪111 111 232 +421‬‬ ‫‪ Westwood‬املفعم بالحياة‪.‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدىن قدره ‪ £30‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14%‬من مثن مشرتياتك‪.‬‬ ‫أ ّما ملجموعة ‪ Vivienne Westwood‬األساسيّة هذا‬ ‫يشمل مبلغ االسرتداد النهايئ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الرضيبة‬ ‫منصة العرض‬ ‫املوسم‪ ،‬فلجأت املص ّممة مجدّدا ً إىل استخدام ّ‬ ‫عىل القيمة املضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬يف بعض املطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض‬ ‫قصة محاربني بيئيّني يقاتلون‬ ‫والتصاميم التي تعرضها كمن ٍرب لرتوي ّ‬ ‫رسم خدمة نقدي عىل كل طلب اسرتداد رضيبة يف حال رغبت‬ ‫تغري املناخ‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بالحصول عىل اسرتداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬ ‫تجدر اإلشارة إىل أ ّن ‪ Westwood‬ناشطة معروفة وتلتزم‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫دامئاً علينا وتشكّل مصدر إلهام لنا‪ .‬ليس من باب الصدفة أن نكون قد‬ ‫اخرتنا تقاطع شارع ‪ Savile Row‬مع شارع ‪Conduit Street‬‬ ‫مقرا ً لنا‪ .‬فعىل م ّر السنني‪ ،‬كان شارع ‪ Savile Row‬أحد الوجهات‬ ‫األه ّم التي يقصدها الرجال املهت ّمون باألزياء ما جعل هذا املكان عنواناً‬ ‫متأصلة يف تصاميمنا أيضاً‪”.‬‬ ‫للجودة العالية والتقاليد واإلبداع‪ ،‬وهي ِقيَم ّ‬ ‫املحل املجموعة الكاملة للعالمة التجاريّة مبا فيها تصنيع املالبس‬ ‫يحوي ّ‬ ‫املعارصة باستخدام أنواع جديدة من الصوف والقطن القابل للتمدّد‬ ‫واملالبسالنسائيّة‪.‬‬ ‫وبالرغم من التط ّورات الجديدة واملثرية التي ُس ّجلت يف العقود‬ ‫القليلة املاضية‪ ،‬يبقى شارع ‪ Savile Row‬عنواناً لف ّن تفصيل البدالت‬ ‫حسب املقاس‪ .‬ترشح ‪ ،Tess Harriott‬مديرة تطوير األعامل يف‬ ‫املحل تأثريا ً يتخطّى حواجز العمر‬ ‫متجر‪ Savile Row 40‬أ ّن لهذا ّ‬ ‫واملهنة وغريها‪ .‬وتقول‪“ :‬يرتاوح زبائن ‪ Savile Row 40‬بني شباب‬ ‫مراهقني يحبّون األزياء وطالب متخ ّرجني يختارون البدلة املناسبة‬ ‫ملقابلتهم األوىل وموظّفني يعملون يف قطاعات املصارف والقانون‬ ‫والتأمني وما إىل ذلك‪ .‬هذا باإلضافة إىل الزبائن الذين لطاملا حلموا‬ ‫خاصة ملكافأة‬ ‫بامتالك بدلة من ‪ Savile Row‬فينتظرون مناسبة ّ‬ ‫أنفسهم‪”.‬‬ ‫خري مثال عن الخدمة املمتازة املتوفّرة يف هذا الشارع‪ ،‬رشكات‬ ‫تصنيع املالبس التي تديرها عائالت‪ .‬تقول ‪ Harriott‬متحدّث ًة عن‬ ‫املتجر‪“ :‬الجميع مر ّح ٌب به هنا ومنلك جميعاً ما يزيد عن ‪ 15‬سنة‬ ‫من الخربة يف هذا املجال‪ ،‬ما ميكّننا من توفري مالبس لكافة املقاسات‬ ‫واألذوا” ومساعدة الزبائن عىل اختيار األنسب لهم‪ .‬نطمح جميعاً‬ ‫أي بدلة من املتجر ّإال إذا‬ ‫إىل الكامل يف عملنا لذا ال نسمح بخرو“ ّ‬ ‫القصة‪ .‬أ ّما العنارص‬ ‫كانت تتوافق مع أفضل املعايري‬ ‫وبخاصة من حيث ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الخاصة بالبدلة‪ ،‬فيص ّممها الزبون بالكامل وهذا ما يجعلها‬ ‫الجامليّة ّ‬ ‫فريدة من نوعها‪”.‬‬ ‫بالتايل‪ ،‬ال عجب يف أن يبقى ‪ Savile Row‬املكان األشهر يف‬ ‫العامل ملا يتميّز به من قدرة عىل الجمع بني الفخامة الخالدة للمالبس‬ ‫كل أسلوب وتو ّجه يف عامل‬ ‫املفصلة حسب املقاس وإمكانيّة محاكاة ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫األزياء‪.‬‬ ‫‪To The Power Of Two :52‬‬

‫يف االتّحاد ق ّوة‬

‫من تصميم أزياء البانك روك إىل النشاط السيايس‪ ،‬تشكّل‬ ‫‪ Vivienne Westwood‬رمزا ً من رموز الثقافة الربيطانيّة منذ‬ ‫أربعني سنة‪ .‬ومع دخول زوجها ورشيكها يف التصميم ‪Andreas‬‬ ‫‪ Kronthaler‬عامل األضواء‪ ،‬تكتشف ‪ Hannah Lewis‬املزيد‬ ‫عن أكرث زوجني مثريين لالهتامم يف مجال األزياء‬ ‫يف عامل املوضة املتقلّب‪ ،‬حيث تشكّل األسامء الكربى اليوم أسامء‬ ‫من املايض غدا ً‪ ،‬تُعترب ‪ Vivienne Westwood‬عملة نادرة‪ .‬ملع‬ ‫إسمها يف ساحة األزياء سنة ‪ 1971‬وحدّدت موضة حقبة البانك مع‬ ‫رشيكها آنذاك ‪ ،Malcolm McLaren‬وما زالت منذ ما يزيد‬ ‫عىل أربعة عقود يف طليعة مجايل األزياء والثقافة‪ .‬عالمتها التجاريّة‬ ‫التي تحمل إسمها هي من أكرب عالمات األزياء يف العامل وتُعترب‬ ‫املص ّممة بح ّد ذاتها من أكرث املبتكرين والناشطني نفوذا ً يف العامل اليوم‪.‬‬ ‫سنة ‪ ،1988‬بدأت ‪ Westwood‬التدريس يف كليّة الفنون‬ ‫التطبيقيّة يف فيينا‪ .‬وهناك التقت ‪Andreas Kronthaler‬‬

‫‪94‬‬

‫ردّة فعل الزبائن عىل تصاميمها القامئة‪ .‬توضّ ح ‪“ :Getty‬بعد‬ ‫أن أطلق مجموعتي‪ ،‬يُطلب م ّني عاد ًة تصميم قطع تشبه القطع‬ ‫األساسيّة من حيث التصميم‪ ،‬لكن بأحجار مختلفة أو بأحجار‬ ‫الخاصة‪ ”.‬عندما يتعلّق األمر بتصميم قطعة فريدة من‬ ‫الزبائن‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يل‬ ‫نوعها‪ ،‬تقول‪“ :‬يتطلّب التصميم دقة مالحظة ووقتا‪ ،‬إذ يجب ع ّ‬ ‫أن أصغي إىل ما يحاول الزبون قوله وأفهم ما يرغب بالتحديد‪.‬‬ ‫أتواصل مع الزبون مرات متعدّدة خالل عميل عىل التصميم‪ ،‬إال‬ ‫أنّني غالباً ما أحصل يف لقائنا األ ّول عىل تص ّور شامل للتصميم‬ ‫الذي يرغبه‪”.‬‬ ‫أخريا ً‪ ،‬إ ّن رؤية الزبائن يحصلون يف النهاية عىل قطع‬ ‫املجوهرات التي يرغبونها هو ما يُفرح ‪ Getty‬كثريا ً‪ .‬وتقول‬ ‫تأكيدا ً عىل ذلك‪“ :‬إ ّن أكرث ما يُرضيني عىل ا”طالق هو أن يشعر‬ ‫الزبون بأنّه ميلك قطعة مميّزة‪ ،‬قطعة من املجوهرات مص ّممة له‬ ‫بالتحديد وتحايك شخصيّته‪”.‬‬ ‫‪A Cut Above :48‬‬

‫مستوى مختلف متاماً‬

‫بالرغم من تاريخ شارع ‪ Savile Row‬العريق يف مجال صناعة‬ ‫املالبس‪ ،‬يتطلّع سكّانه بحزم نحو املستقبل‪ ،‬عىل ح ّد قول ‪Maria‬‬ ‫‪Kirchen-Hill‬‬

‫‪PHOTO: DSQUARED2‬‬

‫يُع ّد شارع ‪ Savile Row‬يف لندن‪ ،‬الذي غالباً ما يُنسب إليه لقب‬ ‫الذهبي لصناعة املالبس”‪ ،‬أحد أِشهر الوجهات يف العامل من‬ ‫“املِيل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫املفصلة حسب الطلب‪ ،‬وذلك ألسباب وجيهة‪.‬‬ ‫حيث املالبس الرجاليّة ّ‬ ‫ومبا أنّه يض ّم عددا ً من أمهر الخيّاطني يف هذا املجال‪ ،‬استحال اسمه‬ ‫مرادفاً ألجود املالبس‪ .‬فإن كنتم تبحثون عن مالبس رجاليّة أم نسائيّة‪،‬‬ ‫كالسيكيّة أم معارصة‪ ،‬ليس يف لندن مكان أفضل منه لرشاء مالبس‬ ‫مفصلة حسب املقاس‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يف مطلع القرن التاسع عرش‪ ،‬اتخذ أ ّول الخيّاطني من شارع‬ ‫‪ Savile Row‬مق ّرا ً لهم بعد أن جذبتهم إىل هذا املكان الطبقة‬ ‫الراقية يف ‪ ،Mayfair‬التي ما زالت إحدى أرقى املناطق يف املدينة‪.‬‬ ‫أي من الرشكات األصليّة‪ ،‬لكن تحظى الكثري من‬ ‫مل َ‬ ‫تبق يف هذا الشارع ّ‬ ‫املؤسسات القامئة اليوم بتاريخ طويل يف هذا الشارع‪ ،‬عىل سبيل “كة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Henry Poole & Co‬املوجودة هنا منذ سنة ‪ 1846‬والتي تقع‬ ‫اليوم يف ‪.Savile Row 15‬‬ ‫مؤسس هذه الرشكة التي تحمل إسمه‬ ‫تجدر ا”شارة إىل أ ّن ّ‬ ‫أدار األعامل فيها من سنة ‪ 1846‬حتّى سنة ‪ 1876‬وقام يف خالل‬ ‫يل ‪Napoleon‬‬ ‫هذه الفرتة بتأمني مالبس امرباطور فرنسا املستقب ّ‬ ‫‪ ،III‬وكان موظّفاً لدى امللكة ‪ Victoria‬والخيّاط الذي اختاره أمري‬ ‫‪ Wales‬الذي أصبح امللك ‪ Edward VII‬الحقاً‪ .‬ويف نهاية العقود‬ ‫الثالثة التي ترأس فيها الرشكة‪ ،‬كان ‪Poole‬قد لعب دورا ً جوهريّاً يف‬ ‫تحويل ‪ Savile Row‬إىل مال ٍذ لتفصيل املالبس حسب الطلب فأصبح‬ ‫نجامً من نجوم هذا الشارع الساطعة‪ .‬ويف أوائل التسعينيّات‪ ،‬أصبحت‬ ‫املؤسسة األكرب من نوعها يف العامل حيث عمل فيها ‪ 300‬خيّاط‬ ‫هذه ّ‬ ‫متخصصاً بتفصيل املالبس‪.‬‬ ‫و‪ 14‬موظّفاً ّ‬ ‫وحتّى يومنا هذا‪ ،‬يسافر أرقى الرجال من مختلف أنحاء العامل إىل‬ ‫مفصلة حسب املقاس من ‪ .Poole‬يُنسب إىل‬ ‫لندن للحصول عىل بدلة ّ‬ ‫هذه الرشكة تصميم سرتات السهرة (املعروفة أيضاً بسرتات التوكسيدو)‪،‬‬ ‫ما يجعل منها بطبيعة الحال خيارا ً رائجاً‪ .‬لكن يوفّر فريق العمل كل‬

‫يشء‪ ،‬من فساتني النهار وفساتني السهرة إىل السرتات غري الرسميّة‬ ‫املفصلة‬ ‫والسرتات الرياضيّة والقمصان واملعاطف وبالطبع البدالت ّ‬ ‫جميعها حسب املقاس‪ ،‬با”ضافة إىل تشكيلة واسعة من األكسسوارات‬ ‫الجميلة‪ .‬وبذلك‪ ،‬يستطيع الزبائن االختيار من بني أكرث من ‪6,000‬‬ ‫كل قطعة‬ ‫منوذج من أجود أنواع األقمشة ويعمل الفريق عىل تفصيل ّ‬ ‫وفقاًملقاساتكم بالتحديد‪.‬‬ ‫يف هذا السياق‪ ،‬شهد شارع ‪ Savile Row‬تط ّورا ً تدريجيّاً‬ ‫عىل م ّر السنني متاما كحال “كة ‪ ،Henry Poole & Co‬وهو‬ ‫مق ٌّر لعدد من أشهر عالمات األزياء‪ .‬ت ّم إطالق املالبس الجاهزة للم ّرة‬ ‫األوىل يف سبعينيّات القرن العرشين عرب عالمات مثل & ‪Gieves‬‬ ‫‪ Hawkes‬و‪ّ ،Hardy Amies‬إال أ ّن وصول األسامء العامليّة إليه‪،‬‬ ‫الفرنيس ‪ Lanvin‬متجرا ً رئيساً‬ ‫تط ّور حديث نسبيّاً‪ .‬ميلك دار األزياء‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للمالبس الرجاليّة يف لندن يف هذا الشارع بالتحديد ويقدّم مجموعة‬ ‫من املالبس الرجاليّة الجاهزة وربطات العنق الفراشيّة الفاخرة‪ ،‬با”ضافة‬ ‫إىل تشكيلة واسعة من األكسسوارات والسلع الجلديّة وحتّى خدمة‬ ‫تفصيل مالبس حسب املقاس‪ .‬فبالنسبة إىل دار ‪ ،Lanvin‬كان من‬ ‫البديهي اختيار شارع ‪ Savile Row‬كموقع‪ .‬قال ‪،Alber Elbaz‬‬ ‫مص ّمم دار ‪ Lanvin‬عند افتتاحه‪“ :‬إنّه رائع‪ .‬بنظري‪ ،‬مل يكن يف لندن‬ ‫مكان أفضل منه‪”.‬‬ ‫ويف ا”طار نفسه‪ ،‬كانت مشاعر األخوين التوأمني ‪Dean and‬‬ ‫‪ ،Dan Caten‬املدي َريْن االبتكاريّني لعالمة األزياء ‪،Dsquared2‬‬ ‫الرئييس‬ ‫الخاص‪ .‬يقول االثنان‪“ :‬متجرنا‬ ‫مشابهة عندما افتتحا متجرهام ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يف لندن مميّ ٌز جدا ً بالنسبة لنا ألنّنا نعيش يف هذه املدينة التي ترتك أثرا ً‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪95‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪One Of A Kind :42‬‬

‫تصاميم فريد ٌة من نوعها‬ ‫ٌ‬

‫أبواب مغلقة‬ ‫يعمل صاغة املجوهرات األشهر يف لندن خلف ٍ‬ ‫لتصميم قطع جميلة حسب طلبات زبائنهم‪ .‬يطلعنا ‪Ruairidh‬‬ ‫‪ Pritchard‬باملزيد عن ذلك‪.‬‬ ‫تُ َع ّد مدينة لندن إىل ح ّد كبري إحدى أفضل األماكن حول العامل‬

‫بحي األملاس الشهري يف منطقة ‪Hatton‬‬ ‫لرشاء املجوهرات‪ .‬فبدءا ً ّ‬ ‫رباقة يف شارع ‪Old‬‬ ‫‪ Garden‬وصوالً إىل واجهات املحال ال ّ‬ ‫‪ ،Bond‬يغرق محبّو املجوهرات يف بحر من الخيارات‪ .‬وبعيدا ً‬

‫تعج باملتس ّوقني وعن وهج نوافذ العرض املزيّنة‬ ‫عن الشوارع التي ّ‬ ‫بقطعٍ من املاس‪ ،‬يقدّم صاغة الذهب األشهر يف لندن خدمات‬ ‫بحسب طلبات الزبائن‪ ،‬تنتقل بقطاع املجوهرات يف هذه املدينة‬ ‫إىل مستويات من الرتف ال مثيل لها‪.‬‬ ‫‪ Jessica McCormack‬املولودة يف نيوزيلندا هي إحدى‬ ‫أشهر صاغة املجوهرات يف منطقة ‪ .Mayfair‬ت ُعرف ‪Jessica‬‬ ‫بابتكاراتها املنسوجة من خيالها الواسع مثل قطعها املص ّممة‬ ‫حسب الطلب واملعروفة باسم ‪ ،Party Jackets‬وهي خواتم‬ ‫مص ّممة لتحتضن خامتاً آخر فتح ّوله وتُغنيه جامالً‪ .‬يف منزلها الرائع‬ ‫امليلء بالقطع الفنيّة يف منطقة ‪ Carlos Place‬السكنيّة الذي‬ ‫بكل بساطة‪ ،‬يقع مشغل‬ ‫تطلق عليه وفريق عملها اسم “املنزل” ّ‬ ‫يل‪ .‬أ ّما الصالون‪ ،‬فيقع يف‬ ‫صاغة الذهب املحرتفني يف الطابق السف ّ‬ ‫األريض واأل ّول ويعرض مجموعاتها املوسميّة املذهلة مبا‬ ‫الطابقني‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫فيها مجموعة ‪ Chi Chi‬املستوحاة من الطريقة الصينيّة القدمية‬ ‫لقراءة البخت ومجموعة ‪Trip The Light Fantastic‬‬ ‫املذهلة من األقراط واألساور والقالدات والخواتم املاسيّة التي‬ ‫تتح ّرك مع مرتديها لتعكس بريقاً يسحر األلباب‪.‬‬ ‫با”ضافة إىل ما سبق‪ ،‬تقدّم ‪ McCormack‬لزبائنها خدمة‬ ‫شاملة من التصميم حسب الطلب من خالل العمل مبا“ ًة مع‬ ‫الزبائن الذين يسعون إىل تصميم قطعة فريدة من نوعها‪ .‬تقول‬ ‫‪ McCormack‬يف “حها ذلك‪“ :‬عندما أعمل عىل تصميم قطعة‬ ‫حسب الطلب‪ ،‬أرغب يف تخصيص الوقت الكايف للتع ّرف إىل زبائني‬ ‫الشخيص فأجلس معهم يف مكتبتنا ملناقشة ما يحبّون‬ ‫عىل املستوى‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أخصص وقتاً‬ ‫وما ال يحبّون وأستنبط أسلوبهم‬ ‫الخاص‪ .‬وبعد ذلك‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لرتجمة قصصهم الشخصيّة إىل الكثري من الرسومات اليدويّة ث ّم‬ ‫أعمل عىل إنجاز التصميم النها ّيئ املثا ّيل‪”.‬‬ ‫وبذلك‪ ،‬ال تكون عمليّة صياغة املجوهرات مص ّممة وفقاً‬ ‫كل فرد فحسب بل املجوهرات بح ّد ذاتها أيضاً‪ .‬تقول‬ ‫لذوق ّ‬ ‫‪“ :McCormack‬تختلف درجة االتصال بالزبائن من فرد إىل‬ ‫كل مرحلة‬ ‫لدي زبائن يرغبون بالبقاء عىل اطّالع يف ّ‬ ‫فرد‪ .‬كان ّ‬ ‫من مراحل التصميم‪ ،‬يف حني كان يفضّ ل آخرون انتظار القطعة‬ ‫لكل زبون‪”.‬‬ ‫بتصميمها النها ّيئ‪ .‬إنّها لرحلة شخصيّة ج ّدا ً ّ‬ ‫الرشقي األكرث‬ ‫أ ّما يف الجهة األخرى من لندن يف الجانب‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫عرصيّة من املدينة‪ ،‬تعمل صائغة املجوهرات ‪Ana de‬‬ ‫‪ Costa‬عىل قطع مص ّممة حسب الطلب ملجموعة متن ّوعة‬ ‫من الزبائن املتميّزين‪ .‬بعد أن تخ ّرجت ‪ de Costa‬يف جامعة‬ ‫‪ Central Saint Martins‬سنة ‪ ،2005‬عملت لدى ‪Shaun‬‬

‫ملنصة عرض أزياء‬ ‫مخصصة ّ‬ ‫‪ Leane‬املشهور بتصميم قطع ّ‬ ‫‪ Alexander McQueen‬ولدى مص ّمم املجوهرات حسب‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫الطلب ‪ Erickson Beamon‬قبل أن تفتتح مشغلها‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫مبوعد‪ .‬وتضيف ‪“ :de Costa‬إ ّن‬ ‫الذي ال تستقبل فيه الزبائن إال‬ ‫املجوهرات القيّمة واملص ّممة حسب الطلب هي من املشرتيات‬ ‫العاطفيّة والشخصيّة ج ّدا ً‪ ،‬لذا أرغب يف منح الوقت الكايف لجميع‬ ‫الخاصني‪”.‬‬ ‫زبائني‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وتضيف قائلةً‪“ :‬نناقش يف البداية األفكار األ ّوليّة وامليزانيّات‬ ‫املعنيّة‪ ،‬إذ أنّها تشكّل أسس بحثي األ ّو ّيل عن األحجار واملفاهيم”‪.‬‬ ‫وما مييّز ‪ de Costa‬عن غريها هو بحوثها املتع ّمقة وفهمها‬ ‫الرسيع لرغبات زبائنها‪ .‬نذكر هنا عىل سبيل املثال إحدى قطعها‬ ‫األخرية املص ّممة حسب الطلب وهي خاتم خطوبة ألحد الزبائن‬ ‫املقيمني يف لندن‪ .‬متيّز تصميم هذا الخاتم باحتوائه عىل أحجار‬ ‫كرمية جلبتها ‪ de Costa‬بنفسها من مسقط رأس العروس‬ ‫املستقبليّة يف روسيا‪ .‬وكام هو الحال مع ‪ ،McCormack‬تسري‬ ‫العمليّة بأكملها من البداية حتّى النهاية بحسب رغبات الزبون‪.‬‬ ‫تقول ‪“ :de Costa‬أحرص منذ بدء عمليّة الصياغة عىل إجراء‬ ‫محادثات منتظمة مع الزبائن ”بقائهم عىل اطّالع بالتقدّم‪ ،‬ونزوالً‬ ‫عند رغبتهم‪ ،‬أرسل يف بعض األحيان صورا ً تظهر التقدّم امل ُح َرز‪ .‬إال‬ ‫تبني يل أ ّن الكثري من زبائني يفضّ لون عنرص املفاجأة لدى رؤية‬ ‫أنّه ّ‬ ‫القطعة النهائيّة‪”.‬‬ ‫‪ Sabine Getty‬هي أيضاً واحدة من صاغة املجوهرات‬ ‫األشهر يف لندن‪ .‬تأيت مجموعتها األخرية ‪Baby Memphis‬‬ ‫استكامالً ملجموعة ‪ Memphis‬الفخمة‪ ،‬إال أ ّن ما مييّزها هو أنّها‬ ‫تحمل بصامت تجربتها األوىل يف عامل األمومة‪ .‬تض ّم هذه املجموعة‬ ‫ترصع الخواتم واألساور‬ ‫تشكيلة واسعة من األحجار املل ّونة التي ّ‬ ‫املتعدّدة واألقراط والقالدات التي يسهل تنسيقها مع بعضها‬ ‫البعض فتمنح جميعها إمكانات غري محدودة ملظاهر متعدّدة‪.‬‬ ‫أيضاً وأيضاً‪ ،‬توفّر ‪ Getty‬خدمة حسب الطلب لبعض‬ ‫محبّي املجوهرات املميّزين يف املدينة وهي خدمة تحفّزها عاد ًة‬

SOUVEN I R

NATURALLY BRILLIANT French-born jeweller Laurence Coste’s Chelsea boutique is something of a hidden gem in the capital. Despite the eponymous brand celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, the store remains relatively under the radar, serving the discerning tastes and needs of the incredibly stylish women who live nearby. Coste, who

moved to London in the 1980s, discovered her talent for jewellery at a young age when she began designing pieces for her friends to wear to parties in Paris. She now handcrafts luxurious costume jewellery in her London workshop.

The collection ranges from affordable everyday classics to jaw-dropping statement pieces. Inspired by the foliage of the ginkgo biloba tree, the

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

Ginkgo necklace is a brilliant addition to a formal evening look; the leaves cascade playfully downwards while the glistening gold makes greenery utterly glamorous. lt Laurence Coste Ginkgo necklace, ÂŁ1,115, Laurence Coste, 109 Walton Street, London SW3 2HP, +44 (0)20 7584 8860, laurence-coste.com

VW AW17/18 www.viviennewestwood.com Flagship Store - 44 Conduit Street W1S 2YL; 18 Conduit Street W1S 2XN