SHOP London Lux AW17

LONDON | 伦敦 | ЛОНДОН |

LONDON Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2017/18

EXPLORE LONDON: discover the luxury boutiques and chic sights of the British capital

EDITOR’S LETTER Athens & Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen 捷克 Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera ‫أملانيا‬ 德国 Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Helsinki Area

Welcome to London

Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Oslo Paris 巴黎 Portugal Prague Rome SE Finland Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Чехия

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this diverse, vibrant capital city. London has much to offer, as our guide on page 62 reveals. Readers who appreciate high-end design will enjoy our feature on the names to know in the city’s bespoke jewellery scene (page 42), and in this issue we also explore the past, present and future of Savile Row, London’s celebrated hub of fine tailoring (page 48). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14% when shopping in the UK. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in London. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without filling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Ruairidh Pritchard Ruairidh Pritchard, Global Blue’s commercial editor, studied journalism in Glasgow, where he was editor of his university’s awardwinning magazine for two years. He writes about fashion, art and culture for a variety of publications and websites in his spare time. globalblue.com

Hannah Lewis Hannah Lewis, SHOP’s features editor, holds degrees from both the University of Oxford and the London College of Fashion. She has written for a number of international publications, including Time Out in Dubai, Quintessentially in London and Prestige in Hong Kong.

Aaron Carline Graphic designer Aaron Carline, a senior artworker at SHOP, is passionate about editorial design and zine culture. In his spare time he can often be found in vintage clothing stores searching for rare finds, watching David Lynch films or listening to 1990s hip hop.

ILLUSTRATION: TELEGRAMME; PHOTOS: (LEFT) MICHAEL CHAPMAN; (MIDDLE) KATIE WILSON ELL; (RIGHT) GRACE BIRD

Telegramme Telegramme design studio, founded by Bobby Evans, created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP London Luxury. Bobby’s distinctive artwork has previously been commissioned by Penguin, Vodafone and Condé Nast, among others. His unique vintage style makes him a perfect choice for this cover, which shows a reflection of the London skyline cleverly made up of luxury products. Discover SHOP London Luxury and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Telegramme Contributor Maria Kirchen-Hill Acting production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion and lifestyle writer Rebecca Rhys-Evans

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy

News editor Ginger Rose Clark

Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Hayley Moseley Artworking assistants Shirley Lau, Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Acting online managing editor Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener Human resources and office assistant Anjali Kapoor

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistant Inga Abramian Marketing intern Joanna Dodge

GLOBA L BLU E U K UK managing director Gordon Clark Sales manager – head of key accounts Peter Blake Sales manager – head of accounts Sarah Bubien UK marketing sales manager Kimberly Urbaniak Marketing account manager Patrick Prior Head of acquiring Massi Maier Global key account managers Richard Harvey, Nikhita Hyett Key account managers Leonie Adams, Ramesh Juneja, Jerry Junkere, Massi Maier, Victoria Taylor Account managers Dianeth Cedeno-Gonzalez, Enda Griffin, Holly Kippin, Marisa Sanchez, Dezelle Villanueva Global Blue UK, 11th f loor, GW2, Great West House, Great West Road, Brentford TW8 9HU, UK +44 (0)20 8232 1900 Regional tourist office Visit Britain London and Partners Advertising enquiries Contact Patrick Prior: pprior@globalblue.com

Digital production assistant Linda Hau Production assistant Chris Bigg Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing manager Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. © 2017 Global Blue

CONTENTS PAGE

PAGE

PRODUCTS 16

Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from London this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of the city’s best dressed during London Fashion Week

NEWS 26

Shop Window One store not to be missed in London

News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products In Store… …with Cutler & Gross design director Marie Wilkinson in the eyewear brand’s Knightsbridge boutique

FEATURES 42

One Of A Kind Behind closed doors, London’s leading jewellers are working with their clients to make beautiful bespoke pieces, as Ruairidh Pritchard discovers

A Cut Above Savile Row may be known for its history of great tailoring, but its residents have their sights set firmly on the future, says Maria Kirchen-Hill To The Power Of Two From punk rock fashion to political activism, Vivienne Westwood has been an icon of British culture for over 40 years. As her husband and design partner Andreas Kronthaler steps into the spotlight, Hannah Lewis takes a look at fashion’s coolest couple

Above (from left): Bump vases by Tom Dixon; Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood autumn/winter 2017/18

CONTENTS EXPERIENCE

ESSENTIALS

Table Talk Dining is always elevated by a spectacular view and these London restaurants have some of the best, says Sally McIlhone

GUIDE 62

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of London, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

PAGE

TRANSLATIONS 83 87 95

中文翻译

Русский Перевод

‫ترجمة باللّغة العربيّة‬

SOUVENIR 96

The essential item to bring home

E NGL IS H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE...

Погрузитесь в мир роскошного шоппинга и увлекательных путешествий, посетив наш обновлённый сайт – globalblue.ru 访问我们近日新版上线的网站 globalblue.cn, 了解最新奢华购物旅游信息，每日更新 FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue @shopmagazine_

Above: Bōkan restaurant serves up striking city views as well as excellent food

PHOTOS: (BOTTOM) MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT; (TOP) ABACAPRESS/DIDIER DELMAS

Visit globalblue.com, our recently relaunched website, for the latest luxury shopping and travel stories, updated daily

27 BRUTON STREET, LONDON, W1J 6QN 6-7 COLVILLE MEWS, LONSDALE ROAD, LONDON W11 2DA

WWW.TEMPERLEYLONDON.COM

CH ECK OUT

CATCH A RAINBOW When the long cold days of winter set in, there is no better antidote than an unashamedly cheerful accessory. The Paperchain incarnation of Anya Hindmarch’s classic Vere satchel, inspired by traditional festive decorations and bright pops of spectral colours, is just the thing to

drive the dark seasonal clouds away. The mini design is best carried as a clutch to let the strap really stand out. Wear yours with neutral shades such as an elegant camel evening coat or with straight-leg blue denim to spruce up a daytime look. Anya Hindmarch’s autumn/ winter 2017/18 collection uses traditional leather craft

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

techniques juxtaposed with modern materials and finishes for a result that is nothing if not desirable. lt Anya Hindmarch Paperchain Mini Vere bag, £1,095, Anya Hindmarch, 118 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EW, +44 (0)20 7493 1628, anyahindmarch.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 69

#BoggiGentlemanStyle

A GENTLEMAN DOES NOT TALK. JUST ACT. - Rule 67 -

boggi.com

LONDON | 49 Jermyn Street | Tel. +44 20 7629.24.95 | 28 Sloane Square | Tel. +44 20 7823.50.44

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ANIMAL INSTINCTS

Fluttering insects, remarkable mammals and mysterious sea creatures meet precious stones for a jaunty jewellery update 1

1. Annoushka ring, £7,200, Annoushka, 1 South Molton Street, London W1K 5QF, +44 (0)20 7629 8233, annoushka.com

4. Theo Fennel 18-carat yellow gold and orange sapphire Crab brooch, price on request, Theo Fennell, 169 Fulham Road, London SW3 6SP, +44 (0)20 7591 5000, theofennell.com

6. Bee Goddess hand bracelet, £2,920, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, beegoddess.com

2. Cartier Panthère de Cartier cuff links, £31,400, Cartier, 175-177 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RN, +44 (0)20 7408 5700, cartier.com

5. Yvonne Léon ring, £1,881, Browns, 24-27 South Molton Street, London W1K 5RD, +44 (0)20 7514 0016, yvonneleon.com

7. Stone Paris Sleeping Beauty ear cuffs, £1,150 each, Dover Street Market, 18-22 Haymarket, London SW1Y 4DG, +44 (0)20 7518 0680, stoneparis.com

3. Delfina Delettrez bangle, £2,090, Delfina Delettrez, 109 Mount Street, London W1K 2TR, +44 (0)20 7629 5550, delfinadelettrez.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

PHOTOS: (3) DELETTREZ; (5) PRESTIGE PACKSHOT

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ROSE TINTED Mix shades of pink and purple with chic metallic details for a daytime look that’s sure to delight

1. Ray-Ban sunglasses, £188, Sunglass Hut, 15 James Street, London WC2E 8BU, +44 (0)20 7420 9330, ray-ban.com

3. Gucci scarf, £280, Gucci, 34 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4QL, +44 (0)20 7629 2716, gucci.com

2. Dolce & Gabbana lipstick, £25, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, dolceandgabbana.com

4. Moncler jacket, £850, Moncler, 26 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4QD, +44 (0)20 3876 1960, moncler.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

5. Diane Kordas Explosion hoop earrings, £2,220, Matches Fashion, 87 Marylebone High Street, London W1U 4QU, +44 (0)20 7487 5400, dianekordasjewellery.com

PHOTOS: (1) ELISABETTA MARES; (2) ORIS-SERVICE; (5) ANGELA KANE

S H O P | 21

6. Bulgari handbag, £2,210, Bulgari, 168 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RE, +44 (0)20 7872 9969, bulgari.com

8. Messika Move Romane double ring, £7,246, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, messika.com

7. Escada skirt, £870, Escada, 194-195 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QX, +44 (0)20 7245 9800, escada.com

9. Charlotte Tilbury Contour Wand, £29, Charlotte Tilbury, 11-12 James Street, London WC2E 8BT, +44 (0)20 3846 9469, charlottetilbury.com

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10. Church’s boots, £420, Church’s, 163 New Bond Street, London W1S 2UQ, +44 (0)20 7499 9449, church-footwear.com

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EARTHY TONES Wrap up in a smart suede aviator jacket and add quirky khaki accessories for a stylish winter look 1

3. Auerbach & Steele eyewear, £295, Auerbach & Steele, 129 King’s Road, London SW3 4PW, +44 (0)20 7349 0001, auerbach-steele.com

2. Furla pouch, £145, Furla, 71-73 Brompton Road, London SW3 1DB, +44 (0)20 7581 6942, furla.com

4. Comme des Garçons Calamus eau de toilette, 50ml, £70, Dover Street Market, 18-22 Haymarket, London SW1Y 4DG, +44 (0)20 7518 0680, commedesgarcons.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

5. Tod’s boots, £550, Tod’s, 2-5 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4PE, +44 (0)20 7493 2237, tods.com

PHOTO: (4) DALIM

1. Belstaff jacket, £1,795, Belstaff, 135-137 New Bond Street, London W1S 2TQ, +44 (0)20 7495 5897, belstaff.co.uk

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STREET ST YLE

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

Casual got seriously cool at this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s London Fashion Week. Understated bomber jackets and frayed denim jeans were ramped up with prints that popped, daring designer bags and shirting that meant business

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

S H O P | 25

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SHOP WINDOW

DAPPER DRAKE’S Drake’s flagship in London recently underwent renovation to reveal an improved new retail space. The store’s interiors are befitting of the brand’s identity: armchairs upholstered in Harris tweed, wooden floors, and cabinets from the Natural History Museum, not to mention art

by Benjamin Deakin, give character to the decor. The revamped store now also offers a made-to-order service, allowing customers to have ties or shirts made to their exact specification. Drake’s creates apparel, shirts, ties and accessories for men: the brand is

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

headquartered in London, while the shirts and ties are made by hand in its London and Somerset workshops. grc Drake’s, 3 Clifford Street, London W1S 2LF, +44 (0)20 7734 2367, drakes.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 70

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DESIGN LAB Bump is the latest collection of home accessories from leading London design brand Tom Dixon, whose eponymous founder holds an OBE for services to British design. Aiming to elevate the everyday rituals – and instruments – of drinking and hosting, the collection features vases, jugs, glasses and a tea set, all delicately handmade. The range is inspired by laboratory apparatus, resulting in minimalist yet striking shapes which are softened by a subtle colour scheme of pink and grey. Made from borosilicate, a heat-resistant glass used in laboratories, each piece has been hand-blown into an engineered graphite mould, to truly striking effect. hl Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, liberty.co.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 71

BRIGHT IDEAS If you’re looking for statement seasonal pieces for autumn/winter, look no further than Missoni’s inspirational knitwear. In an exploration of modern femininity, creative director Angela Missoni presents a collection full of personality. Geometric patterns, be it stripes, checks or zigzags, recur throughout the collection. Cardigans, coats, dresses and tailoring are worn with heeled boots, such as the eye-catching style seen here (£685), multi-coloured necklaces, wool hats and leather gloves. Missoni’s warm hues and lamé melanges are guaranteed to brighten up the winter months. grc Missoni, 193 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QX, +44 (0)20 7823 1910, missoni.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 74

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

77 NEW BOND STREET, LONDON W1S 1RY TEL: 020 7629 8983 Monday â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Saturday 10am to 6pm and Sunday 12noon to 6pm

CASHMERE & FINE WOOLLENS MADE IN SCOTLAND JOHNSTONSCASHMERE.COM

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GOLDEN TOUCH Luxury perfume house Ormonde Jayne’s latest scent, White Gold, completes its Gold Trilogy. White jasmine absolute is at the centre of this new fragrance, with top notes of pink pepper, mandarin and bergamot on a base that includes Madagascan vanilla, cashmeran and white musk. Available in two sizes, 50ml (£260) or 120ml (£345), the fragrance also comes in a matt white bottle, exclusive to Selfridges. Ormonde Jayne makes a point of using oils not commonly found in fragrances to create elegant perfumes in the brand’s London laboratory. grc Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), ormondejayne.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 68

TRAVEL COMPANIONS Launched in April 2017, LONB London is a new luxury concept offering leather goods designed for the frequent traveller. The range includes everything you could need for your trip, from day bags to overnight bags, wallets and pouches. The brand aesthetic is sleek and elegant with a touch of 1960s style, and each piece is crafted in Italy from the finest materials, such as calfskin, buffalo and crocodile leather. The signature item is the Runaway, a small clutch with compartments to hold all the essentials, including your phone, keys, wallet and passport, which also clips into the back of all of the brand’s larger bags. Discover the range at the newly opened flagship in Mayfair, a stylish space that also houses a relaxed bar where visitors are invited to share travel tales over a drink. hl LONB London, 59 South Audley Street, London W1K 2QN, +44 (0)20 3598 7950, lonb.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 68

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

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STARTING POINT Berluti’s autumn/winter 2017/18 collection marks the debut of new creative director Haider Ackermann. The idea of items developing over time, ageing into lasting garments with sentimental value, is intrinsic to the designer’s inaugural offering for the Italian heritage menswear brand. Key wardrobe staples with a cool twist are the star attractions: a black leather aviator jacket with red crocodile skin lapels and lining, a neat suede jacket in dark lilac, velvet tuxedos and cashmere knits. Every piece is timeless in its design, but refreshingly modern in its cut, colour and styling. rre Berluti, 43 Conduit Street, London W1S 2YJ, +44 (0)20 7437 1740, berluti.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 70

ON THE CASE

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) OLI SMITH/GLOBE-TROTTER SUITCASE CO

In 2017 British luxury travel brand Globe-Trotter celebrated its 120th anniversary, so it seems fitting that the autumn/winter collection takes inspiration from the company’s original factory building on London’s St John Street. Designer Charlotte Seddon’s creations reimagine details of the beautiful Victorian brick façade through embroidery, appliqué and patterned linings paired with warm hues such as mustard and aubergine. All the suitcases, bags and small leather goods, including the pictured memory case (£795), are handcrafted by the brand’s experts in Hertfordshire. js Globe-Trotter, 35 Albemarle Street, London W1S 4JD, +44 (0)20 7529 5950, globe-trotter.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 70

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HIGHLAND FLING British brand Mackintosh has teamed up with London-based label Le Kilt on a 10-piece capsule collection for autumn/ winter 2017/18. Since its founding in 2014, Le Kilt has focused on updating its founder’s family kilt-making heritage and is inspired heavily by British subcultures. Drawing on 1960s mods, the new collection includes coats, skirts, dresses and jackets (from £535), all made by hand in Mackintosh’s Scottish factory. Find pieces with distinctly 60s details, such as large round buttons, houndstooth pinafores and belted jackets made with the signature Mackintosh rubberised waterproof fabric. rre Mackintosh, 19 Conduit Street, London W1S 2BH, +44 (0)20 7493 4667, mackintosh.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 70

COOLER SHAKERS British heritage brand Asprey has been known for its luxury products, spanning leather, silver and crystal, since it was founded in 1781, and has held a Royal Warrant ever since Queen Victoria’s reign. Recent additions to its range of covetable items include these Bobsleigh sterling silver salt and pepper shakers (£5,750). Topped with helmets featuring black and white enamelled visors, the shakers sit on an ebony base within the bobsleigh.

Made in Asprey’s London workshops, this piece is an excellent example of the brand’s craftsmanship and will make an eye-catching addition to your dinner table. grc

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

Asprey, 167 New Bond Street, London W1S 4AY, +44 (0)20 7493 6767, asprey.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 69

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COVETABLE CASHMERE Johnstons of Elgin, a Scottish cashmere manufacturer with one of the oldest working wool mills in the UK, celebrates its 220th anniversary in 2017. Not surprisingly, this illustrious heritage is at the heart of the brand’s ethos, which is focused on the production of timeless cashmere and fine wool fabric, clothing and accessories to the highest possible standards. For autumn/winter 2017/18, the collection includes tailored check outerwear and cosy high-neck knits in a range of warm autumnal tones including tan, beige and camel as well as black. rre Johnstons of Elgin, 77 New Bond Street, London W1S 1RY, +44 (0)20 7629 8983, johnstonscashmere.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 69

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) DAN SIMS/BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL

JOIN THE FRONT ROW Front-row seats are normally kept for celebrities and industry insiders, but London Fashion Week Festival allows all fashion lovers to experience the glamour of the catwalk. This exciting event takes place in February and September. It gives visitors the opportunity to attend shows that highlight new-season collections and to shop the latest from British and international designers – at exclusive prices. After talks from industry experts such as designers Ashish and Alice Temperley, let beauty professionals give you a mini-makeover with the latest hairstyles and make-up trends. If you want a first-class experience, opt for the Luxe or Luxe Premium packages. Book online to enjoy seats on the front row and complimentary prosecco and canapés – you’ll also receive a limited-edition gift bag. rre The Store Studios, 180 The Strand, London WC2R 1EA, londonfashionweekfestival.com globalblue.com

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A THING OF BEAUTY Beauty enthusiasts will be delighted to hear that Victoria Beckham and Estée Lauder have returned with a second make-up collection for autumn/winter, following the initial success of their first collaboration. This will see the comeback of 10 hero products as well as 18 new products and two limited-edition sets. New products include a skin-perfecting powder, a smudgy matte eyeliner in graphite, an eye palette using a pressed gel-cream formula and

SEE THE LIGHT Three years after his 10th and final collection under his own name, Dominic Jones has joined luxury jewellery brand Astley Clarke as its new creative director. Using the natural world as a main source of inspiration, his Phototaxis collection, as modelled by Georgia May Jagger, is influenced by British moths and their attraction to light. With handcrafting being a central ideal to Jones’s method of work, pieces feature glass enamelling and hand-painted gold to give a gradient effect with the diamonds. The other two collections, Astronomy and Colour of Calder, introduce semi-precious stones and a mix of metals to create visionary pieces that revolve around the theme of light and experimental colour. rre Astley Clarke, 6 Junction Mews, London W2 1PN, +44 (0)20 7706 0060, astleyclarke.com Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

a highly pigmented matte lipstick in three different shades. The collection is inspired by Victoria Beckham’s favourite cities, including London. grc Victoria Beckham, 36 Dover Street, London W1S 4NH, +44 (0)20 7042 0700, victoriabeckham.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 69

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IN THE ZONE The area around King’s Cross has been undergoing major redevelopment in recent years, with a whole host of new restaurants, galleries and boutiques opening up. Among the new openings is 18Montrose, which has branches in Glasgow and Nottingham, and has set up shop on Stable Street just a stone’s throw from King’s Cross and St Pancras stations. Designed to be a crossover between an events and retail space, it carries clothing,

PHOTO: (TOP) LUKE DYSON

DEAL US IN British designer Alexandra Llewellyn has introduced a new addition to her portfolio of games tables and boards. A trip to Las Vegas served as the inspiration for the new poker box (£11,520), of which only 15 have been produced. Made using more than a thousand pieces of wood – including 4,000-year-old bog oak – and traditional marquetry methods, the box is adorned with an elegant skull design which is finished with the piece’s edition number. The beautiful box also contains 500 custom-made clay poker chips, a black marble and brass dealer button, engraved mother-ofpearl blind buttons and playing cards by Kem. Llewellyn’s designs can be personalised and she also takes on one-off commissions. grc Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, alexandralldesign.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73

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footwear, accessories and design objects spread across three distinct zones. Look out for fashion and lifestyle brands from across the world, including Shinola, Norse Projects, Maison Kitsuné, Rick Owens, Stone Island and Aesop. grc 18Montrose, 6-8 Stable Street, London N1C 4AB, +44 (0)20 3805 5451, 18montrose.com

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IN STORE: CUTLER AND GROSS British luxury eyewear brand Cutler and Gross, founded in 1969 by Graham Cutler and Tony Gross, is known for its handcrafted heritage and one-of-a-kind pieces. Design director Marie Wilkinson has been part of the company for over 30 years, and her creations are inspired by the label’s archive as well as the work of various architects. She spoke to Fani Mari about the Knightsbridge store and the brand’s long history

‘Back in 1981, I was inspired by Tony Gross and Graham Cutler’s desire to change the perception of glasses from being a medical necessity to a fashion accessory. The possibility of customising and commissioning bespoke frames was thrilling, and knowing the people who would make each pair individually by hand was very special. ‘The brand has developed under the close supervision of its founders, always driving to innovate and create beautifully designed, handmade frames. As ambassadors of handmade eyewear, it was important for them to share this love and knowledge through their own eight stores around the world and via prominent optical and fashion stores. The toughest challenge has been to satisfy demand. Buying the company’s own factory [in Cadore in northern Italy] in 2008 has been a liberating and empowering experience. ‘Cutler and Gross has established itself as a brand with a bold, independent spirit, leading the way by inspiring clients to experiment with new and unique designs rather than simply following mass-market trends. We have spearheaded the revival of handmade eyewear and beautiful craftsmanship, and want to make both ready-to-wear and bespoke glasses accessible to anyone with the taste and imagination. ‘The Knightsbridge store has been open since 1971 when Graham Cutler discovered this former wig shop, tucked away in a discreet and smart street near Harrods, which was for sale. At the time, opticians were clustered Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

around Harley Street, but Cutler and Gross were optometrists themselves and didn’t need to rely on prescriptions from doctors. They wanted to be near the international fashion crowd in Knightsbridge. ‘The current design is only the third in the store’s history. It was originally created by architect Piers Gough and later Tom Bartlett, who are hard acts to follow. As we have our own factory, we also have our own in-house design and architectural office where we are able to conceive the look of the interior ourselves. Our architect is very interested in Patrik Schumacher’s parametricism [an avant-garde architectural style], which has led to an inspiring way of displaying the glasses. The original eye-examination room created by Gough in 1969 remains unaltered, though. ‘In terms of products, Cutler and Gross is best defined by the bold design, exquisite craftsmanship and finest materials that are found in all the brand’s frames. As a taster, we use the best cotton-based acetate, and certain styles feature hypo-allergenic ceramic nose pads, as well as gold and ruthenium platings. ‘Our latest collection includes a mixture of entirely new designs that we expect to become modern classics, as well as a selection of some bestselling frames from the archive that have been reinterpreted with improved fit, manufacture and new lens technology.’ Cutler and Gross, 16 Knightsbridge Green, London SW1X 7QL, +44 (0)20 7581 2250, cutlerandgross.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73

PHOTO: FANI MARI AND XIMENA DANERI

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FENWICK: BOND STREET KITCHEN

enwick on New Bond Street has long been one of London’s most exclusive shopping destinations, and its appeal has just got even stronger with the opening of new in-house eatery Bond Street Kitchen. The world-famous department store is known for its refined elegance and elevated service, and the same can be expected from this exciting new foodie venture. In the heart of bustling Mayfair, the restaurant offers a relaxed yet vibrant atmosphere, making it the perfect place to take a break from a busy day of shopping at the area’s array of high-end boutiques as well as Fenwick’s meticulously curated selection of fashion, beauty and accessories. Every item and ingredient on the Bond Street Kitchen menu has been as carefully selected as Fenwick’s retail offerings.

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

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PHOTOS: © MÓNICA R. GOYA

Local, seasonal ingredients form the base of delicious modern British dishes Local, seasonal ingredients form the base of delicious modern British dishes, executed to perfection and beautifully presented. Brunch, lunch and afternoon tea menus are available, and might include anything from beetroot cured salmon or charcuterie to cheese boards or the ever-popular lamb salad. Look out for the signature BSK club sandwich, a divine medley of chicken, crayfish and chorizo. The wine list is also excellent, so be sure to ask the friendly staff for the best pairing for your meal. All in all, it is a delicious addition to one of London’s best loved institutions. Bond Street Kitchen, Fenwick, 63 New Bond Street, London W1S 1RQ, +44 (0)20 7629 9161, fenwick.co.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 69

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ONE OF A KIND Behind closed doors, Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading jewellers are working with their clients to make beautiful bespoke pieces, as Ruairidh Pritchard discovers Left: jewellery designer Jessica McCormack

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ondon is one of the best places in the world by far to buy jewellery. From the established diamond district of Hatton Garden to the glittering storefronts of Old Bond Street, clients are spoilt for choice. And above the bustling shopping streets and away from the glare of the diamond-festooned display windows, London’s leading goldsmiths are offering bespoke services that take jewellery shopping in the city to unparalleled levels of luxury. New Zealand-born Jessica McCormack is one of the top jewellers in Mayfair. She’s known for such imaginative creations as her bespoke Party Jackets: rings designed to sit around an existing piece, transforming and elevating the original. At her stunning artfilled Carlos Place townhouse, which she and her team refer to simply as ‘the house’, the

PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT) ACCOOPER NEG & PRINT; (CENTRE) JASPER “YOGI” GOUGH; (TOP RIGHT) RICHARD DAVID GREEN

AT JESSICA MCCORMACK’S STUNNING ART-FILLED CARLOS PLACE TOWNHOUSE, THE SALON SHOWCASES THE STUNNING SEASONAL COLLECTIONS, INCLUDING CHI CHI, INSPIRED BY THE ANCIENT CHINESE METHOD OF FORTUNE TELLING, AND TRIP THE LIGHT FANTASTIC

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Above (from top): Trip the Light Fantastic pendant; Chi Chi necklace; diamond and ruby Party Jacket ring set, all Jessica McCormack; the brand’s townhouse

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highly skilled goldsmiths have their workshop on the lower ground floor. The salon occupies the ground and first floors, and showcases her stunning seasonal collections, including Chi Chi, a collection inspired by the ancient Chinese method of fortune telling, and Trip The Light Fantastic, a glamorous collection of diamond earrings, cuffs, necklaces and rings that move with the wearer, creating an almost hypnotic sparkle. McCormack also offers a comprehensive bespoke service, working directly with clients looking to create a piece of truly individual jewellery. ‘When working on a bespoke piece I like to spend time getting to know my client

personally by sitting with them in our library, discussing their likes, dislikes and getting to know their style,’ explains McCormack of the process. ‘I then spend some time translating their personal story into lots of hand-drawn sketches, while I work out the final perfect design.’ The process is tailored to each person as much as the jewellery is. ‘The degree of contact with clients varies with each individual. I’ve had clients that like to be involved at every stage whereas others prefer to await the final piece. It’s such a personal journey for each client,’ she says. On the other side of London, in the city’s trendy East End, jewellery designer

Ana de Costa works on bespoke pieces for a variety of discerning clients. After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2005, de Costa worked for Shaun Leane, renowned for designing catwalk pieces for Alexander McQueen, and costume jeweller Erickson Beamon, before opening her own by-appointment-only atelier. ‘Bespoke jewellery and fine jewellery as a whole is a very emotional and personal purchase and I like to take my time with all of my private clients,’ explains de Costa. ‘We discuss initial ideas and the budgets involved as this will form the basis of my initial research into stones and concepts,’ she

Above (clockwise from left): Ana de Costa sketching designs; two of her bespoke rings; ring components in the atelier

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continues. In-depth research and an easy understanding of customers’ desires make de Costa stand out. One of her recent bespoke pieces, for example, was an engagement ring for a London-based client. The design featured precious stones that were sourced by de Costa from the bride-tobe’s hometown in Russia. As with McCormack, the whole process from start to finish is tailored to the client. ‘Once the making process is started I have regular conversations with clients to update them on progress and, depending on preference, I send progress shots. However, I have found that a lot of my clients prefer the surprise of seeing the piece at the end.’

Sabine Getty is another of London’s leading jewellers. Her most recent collection, Baby Memphis, follows on from the opulent Memphis collection, but bears the hallmarks of her experiences as a new mother. Featuring a wide range of colourful stones, the collection comprises stackable rings and bracelets, and easy-to-combine earrings and necklaces, all of which give endless potential for a host of different looks. Getty provides a bespoke service to some of the city’s most discerning jewellery lovers, a process that is often sparked by a client’s reaction to her existing designs. ‘After a collection comes out I usually get requests for a

Above (all): Sabine Getty Baby Memphis collection

piece that is similar in design but using different stones or using the customer’s stones,’ she explains. When it comes to creating a unique piece, she says, ‘it takes observation and time. One has to listen to what the customer is trying to convey and what they really want. I speak to them many times throughout the process, but it is usually in our first meeting that I get a complete sense of what is desired.’ And it’s seeing the client finally receive their desired pieces that Getty enjoys the most. ‘The most rewarding thing is to see that our client feels they have something special: a piece of jewellery that is made for them and matches their personality.’

A Cut Above Savile Row may be known for its history of great tailoring, but its residents have their sights set firmly on the future, says Maria Kirchen-Hill Above: Henry Poole & Co fabrics

Often known as ‘the golden mile of tailoring’, London’s Savile Row is one of the world’s most famous destinations when it comes to bespoke menswear, and with good reason. It is home to some of the most talented tailors in the field, and the street’s name has become a byword for excellent suiting. For men or for women, the 84

classic or the contemporary, there is absolutely no better place in the capital for madeto-measure clothing. The first tailors made their home on Savile Row at the turn of the 19th century, attracted by the affluent residents of Mayfair, which remains one of the city’s most upmarket neighbourhoods. None of the original firms 88

remain, but many of today’s establishments have long histories on the street, including Henry Poole & Co, which has had a presence there since 1846, and today occupies 15 Savile Row. The firm’s eponymous founder ran the business from 1846 to 1876, during which he outfitted the future Emperor Napoleon III of France, was

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employed by Queen Victoria and was tailor of choice to the Prince of Wales, who became King Edward VII. By the end of his three decades at the helm, Poole had played a huge part in establishing Savile Row as a haven for bespoke tailoring and Poole’s as one of its shining stars. By the early 1900s it was the largest establishment of its type in the world, employing 300 tailors and 14 cutters. To this day, discerning gentlemen travel to London from all parts of the world to be fitted for a bespoke suit at Poole’s. The company is credited with creating the dinner jacket (aka the tuxedo), so this is naturally a popular choice. But the team offers

everything from morning and evening dress to bespoke blazers, sports jackets, shirts, coats and – of course – suits, along with a wide array of beautiful accessories. Clients can choose from over 6,000 fabric swatches – all of the finest quality – and the team will make each piece to your exact measurements. Just as Henry Poole & Co has evolved with the times, so too has Savile Row, and the street is also home to a number of leading fashion brands. Ready-to-wear was first introduced in the 1970s by such brands as Gieves & Hawkes and Hardy Amies, but the arrival of international names is a relatively new development. French fashion

house Lanvin has its London menswear flagship here, which offers the brand’s ready-towear collection, its trademark luxury bow ties, a wide range of accessories and leather goods, and even a made-tomeasure suiting service. For Lanvin, Savile Row was the natural choice of location. ‘It’s mythic,’ said Alber Elbaz, Lanvin’s designer at the time of the store’s opening. ‘For me, in London, there was no other place.’ Dean and Dan Caten, the twin brothers who are co-creative directors of catwalk label Dsquared2, had similar feelings when it came to opening their own store. ‘Our London flagship store is very special for us

It’s no wonder Savile Row is world famous

Above: Henry Poole & Co showroom

PHOTO: (MIDDLE) DSQUARED2

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because we live in this city, which is a constant influence and source of inspiration for us,’ say the pair. ‘It is not by chance that we chose the Savile Row intersection with Conduit Street as the position. Over the years, Savile Row has been one of the most important destinations for fashion-conscious men and has become synonymous with high quality, tradition, originality – values which are imbued in our designs as well.’ The boutique carries the brand’s full range of collections, including contemporary tailoring in new wools and stretch cottons and womenswear. Although there have been exciting new developments in

the past few decades, the heart of Savile Row remains the art of the bespoke suit. As Tess Harriott, business development manager at 40 Savile Row, explains, this is a product whose appeal transcends age, occupation and the like. ‘The 40 Savile Row customer varies from a young fashion-forward teenager, to graduating students choosing their first interview suit, to professionals in banking, law, insurance and so on. We also have customers who have always dreamed of having a Savile Row suit and will treat themselves for a special occasion.’ The family-run tailoring business is a shining example of the exemplary service

available on the street. ‘Everyone is welcome,’ says Harriott of the store. ‘We all have over 15 years’ experience in the business so can cater to all shapes and tastes and will guide the customer to make the best choice for them. We are all perfectionists, so we will not let a suit leave the shop unless it is of the highest standard, especially the fit of the suit. The aesthetic of the suit is totally designed by the customer and this is what makes it unique.’ Combining the timeless luxury of bespoke apparel with an ability to embrace every style and trend, it’s no wonder Savile Row remains world famous

Above (from left): Lanvin autumn/winter 2017/18; Dsquared2 Classic collection; 40 Savile Row suit

PHOTO: MEINKE KLEIN @UNIT

From pun Vivienne Wk rock fashion to politi estwood cal activ culture for over 40 yea has been an icon of B ism, partner An rs. As her h ritish Hannah Le dreas K ronthaler step usband and design wis takes a s look at fash into the spotlight, ionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cooles t couple Westwood Kronthaler and Vivienne Left: designers Andreas

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n the fickle world of fashion, where today’s big name is tomorrow’s old news, Vivienne Westwood is a rarity. Having burst on to the scene in 1971, and defined the look of the punk era alongside her then partner Malcolm McLaren, Westwood has remained at the cutting edge of fashion and culture for well over four decades. Her eponymous brand is one of the biggest fashion labels in the world and the designer herself is acknowledged as one of the most influential creatives – and activists – in the world today. In 1988, Westwood began teaching at the Vienna School of Applied Arts. It was there that she met Andreas Kronthaler, who was studying fashion design.

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Kronthaler’s original designs caught Westwood’s eye, and she invited him to London to develop them further. His ‘sun wheel’ dresses, inspired by the Renaissance, were featured in the Vivienne Westwood collection in 1989. So began a partnership that has become central to the brand. The pair married in 1993, and today they remain partners in both business and life. Together Westwood and Kronthaler have taken the brand from strength to strength. For Kronthaler, it’s all about balance, and mutual respect: ‘Vivienne is an individual with a revolutionary vision and her image and work are strongly recognisable. She’s a punk and a scholar. This was established when I met her. I too have

Above (clockwise from top): a design sketch; two catwalk looks, all Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood autumn/winter 2017/18

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a vision and we pooled our resources, intellectually as well as physically. People ask how a couple who live together and work together manage it. We’re both very tolerant and it is stimulating: a learning process.’ For autumn/winter 2016/17 the brand’s Gold Label line – shown each season at Paris Fashion Week – was renamed Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. This was partly motivated by a desire to recognise the brand as a

joint effort. ‘Over the years Andreas has taken on ever more responsibility and I wish this fact to be reflected in public perception,’ explained Westwood at the time. But it was also an acknowledgement of the two as individuals. ‘I have designed with Vivienne for more than 25 years,’ he explains. ‘We wanted to clarify our lines. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood: that’s just me. The collection is more couture.’ Both designers are

Above (both): Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood autumn/winter 2017/18

involved on some level with every aspect of the brand, but the separation allows their differences to flourish. ‘We always work quite separately and come back together – we work very differently from each other,’ says Kronthaler of the design process. ‘I constantly try things out and keep changing things; I’m never satisfied and drive Vivienne mad. She is different: she approaches something and makes a decision then builds on it

– she’s very literal and logical. I tend to throw things up and create chaos before I can have order.’ For autumn/winter 2017/18, Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood is inspired by the designer’s home nation. ‘The realisation at the end was that I see myself as an Austrian designer,’ says Kronthaler of the collection. ‘It was about acknowledging my nationality and giving shape to my identity. The landscapes, the people, their costumes: they are my roots. It took me a while to understand the importance of where I was from.’ Designed as a tribute to the Wiener Werkstätte – a community of artists in Vienna in the early 1900s – the collection shows distinct Austrian influences, such as alpine florals and dirndl-inspired silhouettes. But Kronthaler’s artistic Austrian inspirations – Gustav Klimt among them – also led to bold paint splatters, vibrant prints and a cacophony of rich colours, all of which immediately conveyed the signature Vivienne Westwood exuberance. For the Vivienne Westwood mainline collection this season, the eponymous designer once again used her catwalk event and the designs it showcased as a platform, telling a story of eco warriors fighting climate change through her staging. Westwood is a noted activist, and her company is committed to going green – many of the materials she uses are recycled, or use Above (clockwise from top left): two catwalk looks; backstage, all Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood autumn/winter 2017/18

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) KAMIL KUSTOSZ

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PHOTOS: UGO CAMERA

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environmentally friendly dyeing and manufacturing processes. Garments are cut in a way that creates as little waste as possible. ‘Buy less, choose well, make it last,’ is a key motto. Westwood’s true talent lies in seamlessly incorporating such political statements into her collections. She sees art and fashion as an important platform for ideas, but the serious issues have never taken away from her wild and vibrant vision. Her

anti climate change mission statement was artfully splashed across trousers and tops in this unisex collection, while elsewhere she favoured bold prints (both abstract and photographic), patchwork appliqué, plaids and a healthy dose of gold lamé. A standout look featured a red tailored dress with matching jacket, which Westwood paired with knee-high red boots, a red cape and a knitted balaclava. Her catwalk styling makes a bold statement, but

Above (both): Vivienne Westwood autumn/winter 2017/18

individually her pieces are undeniably wearable. These are two very different collections with very different inspirations, and yet put a look from each side by side and the common aesthetic is immediately visible. The Vivienne Westwood style remains one of the strongest signatures in the world of fashion. ‘We have evolved together,’ explains Kronthaler. We can only wait and see where that evolution takes them next

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TABLE TALK Dining is always elevated by a spectacular view and these London restaurants have some of the best, says Sally McIlhone

Whether on a rooftop or the uppermost floor of one of the city’s most impressive skyscrapers, London’s best views come as a spectacular side order to its most delectable eateries. The London skyline has many famous landmarks to admire, and the best place to spot St Paul’s Cathedral, the Palace of Westminster and the London Eye, or to admire the curves of the Thames, is always from above. Dining with a view need not be reserved for the last meal of the day. Brunch and lunch options are available for those who prefer to spend their weekends languidly sipping midday cocktails and watching the world go by. And what a world it is from so far above ground. Our selection offers everything from Japanese and South American fusion cuisine to contemporary British flavours. When it comes to fine dining in London, the only way is up. globalblue.com

PHOTO: © MING TANG-EVANS

SUSHISAMBA Marrying the dishes of Peru, Brazil and Japan might sound a complex task, but SushiSamba’s recipes harmonise these contrasting cuisines, and each plate is executed with the utmost finesse. Small plates such as shrimp tempura with spicy mayo and black truffle vinaigrette, or crispy lobster taquitos, are a perfect way to whet your appetite for the enticing main courses. SushiSamba is famous for its Kobe beef, served with a hot stone so guests can cook it themselves at the table; enjoy with a selection of dipping sauces. Dishes from the robata grill, including teriyaki chicken or lamb chop with red miso, are hearty and comforting, and be sure to order a plate from the samba rolls section of the menu – the El Topo is unusual and delicious. For dessert, you cannot beat the alfajores or the mocha: the perfect end to an unforgettable meal. SushiSamba, 110 Bishopsgate, London EC2N 4AY, +44 (0)20 3640 7330, sushisamba.com

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An inviting space in the heart of London’s hip Shoreditch area, The Rooftop at Ace Hotel offers brunch, events and private dining for those in the know. Consult the website during your trip to check out events during your stay – these might combine, for example, a yoga class with a healthy brunch, and can be booked online. Rooftop brunch is also available, weather permitting; try the roasted Portobello mushrooms with ricotta on toasted sourdough, or omelette with ’nduja sausage, roasted cherry tomatoes, cheddar and rocket. Groups of 10 or more can also book the rooftop for private dining, so if you’re celebrating a special occasion with friends and family, this is an ideal choice. The Rooftop at Ace Hotel, 100 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JQ, +44 (0)20 7613 9800, acehotel.com globalblue.com

PHOTO: (TOP) ABACAPRESS/DIDIER DELMAS

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BŌKAN Located in the heart of the Canary Wharf business district, Bōkan comprises a restaurant, bar and roof terrace on the 37th, 38th and 39th floors of 40 Marsh Wall. One of the best ways to enjoy the Bōkan experience is with its bottomless brunch, served at weekends and on public holidays, whose menu features European-inspired plates made using the best ingredients from a select group of British suppliers. The three-course menu offers bottomless Prosecco alongside starters of tiger prawn tartare with avocado, little gem lettuce and lime, or veal and pork terrine with dry apricots, capers and toast, followed by English pea risotto or crispy eggs royale with hot-smoked Maldon salmon and wasabi mayonnaise. For dessert, the Paris-Brest – two circular choux pastries with an indulgently creamy praline filling – is hard to beat. Bōkan, 40 Marsh Wall, London E14 9TP, +44 (0)20 3530 0550, bokanlondon.co.uk FENCHURCH Perched on the 37th floor of 20 Fenchurch, also known as the Walkie Talkie, Fenchurch restaurant is housed within the famous Sky Garden. Head chef Daniel Fletcher, appointed earlier this year, comes from The Square restaurant, a two Michelin-starred venue headed up by Phil Howard, so his credentials speak for themselves. Should you still need convincing, a short perusal of the menu should allay any fears. Tasting menus are offered at lunch and dinner (five and eight courses respectively) and feature seasonal plates such as warm salad of violet artichoke, London airdried ham and courgette, followed by poached black cherries with sour cream ice cream and sorrel. A two- or three-course set lunch menu is also available from Sunday to Tuesday, along with the à la carte option. Sommelier Alexandru Pastrav skilfully recommends drinks to accompany your chosen dishes.

Fenchurch, Sky Garden, 1 Sky Garden Walk, London EC3M 8AF, +44 (0)333 772 0020, skygarden.london/fenchurch-restaurant

GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to London with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from one of its coolest new venues to a luxurious hair salon. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.

Above: Westminster Abbey, parts of which date back to the 13th century, is one of England’s most important and most beautiful Gothic buildings

PHOTO: © MÓNICA R GOYA

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SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOS: KIRSTY ANDREWS

‘London is full of history and culture, offering everything from magnificent buildings and luxurious afternoon teas to indulgent cocktails and worldclass shopping’ – Kirsty Andrews, SHOP’s picture editor

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Follow our teamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s travels on Instagram @shopmagazine_. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

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Selfridges P.30 O BOND STREET S O T A L L S G R TI L A O ● VI UTH ● A ●

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S T RE E T ● PINKO C IN L BOSIDENG ● LS CA E I BROWNS ● AR NA TI ● A RU S H O D D BROWNS FOCUS ● ● L INK AR WHISTLES ● ● P ÉR BS CLAUDIE PIERLOT ● ● G OB NK ● H E PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND ● ● AC S N I BUTLER & WILSON ● S P E I S I M I A R OE R E S ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● ● R AT C K L N DUNE LONDON ● ● C AS BA OP LE ● M E D KO IL VERTICE UOMO ● ● T E M N AR ● TH LUMAS GALLERY ● E E R ● JONES ● AU K A OW SI N E MONICA VINADER ● ● S L A J E O O B AT E O S ● M AS IT IN A R BO L I A ● T S AFTERSHOCK ● The Beaumont ● P E U CO TO R S S ● R A R M A E T T RY POSTE ● ● S HO E LA LE COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● ● T T I N CO EL MODA IN PELLE ● ● AR HO EW T C K J OF N ROCKPORT ● ● C S DO SANDRO ● ● INKON L L AUBADE ● SPENCE R ● ANNOUSHKA ● ● HART

ACCESSORIZE ●

TO OL

HANOVE R STREET

BON D ST

REE T

ER Y

BROOKS MEWS

NEW

BROOK STREET

Claridge’s

AV SONIA ● RYKIEL ● POMELLATO

DAVIE S STR EET

VERA WANG AT BROWNS ●

RO W

M AD DO X ST R EE GROSVEN OR STREET

Global Blue Retailer London Underground Station

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Hotel

Restaurant

S H O P | 69

New Bond Street OX FO RD ST R

OP N SH NRA E CO H T ● OX FO R D ST RE A● EXT ET ●N ZAR ● E W IN L 3 N A P.3 TM G E ● Z ARE IL D O F E L G IN SAK O N EG RME ONS S● ● E OHNST V IA O J L N ● AT E E P RO ST ●B OND CT E FA O F B OX ● A R TT C H E S R IN ● ● O T A V IC P P L E IN ● TENTERDEN STREET ●W TENTERDEN STREET IP LU P H IL L O R IB O ● T H IS P R E E M ASL ●B S● HAM B O N IA M S ● L E ER ● IL A W AK IT R M IKO K U Y IY RE DA M IG D L Y O W H● ROG SE D H IG T ● ●O IS LU S ● ● FRO E Y ● ML H ANOV ER STREE T 8 O .3 R P B BROOK ST R EE T L& ● 77 DIAMONDS w ic k SEL ● Fe n RUS RET ANA C B E B S A &G IA’S LCE TO R O IC D V ● ● RCH NI DMA ● RMA A H IN B L A N C IO A T ANY POR N M O E M ● P.16 Y A ERR PI SS ● O ULB M BROO KS M E W S O BO NK ●M LY A HUG ZI GE HA E O LL A ● T T NE GNA ● UV AS IR R LO A RI O ZE A S A AT G IL D A G N O N A ●N ET HM A M ENE ● IN RO CH E RI ● E P ERM ● IL ● Z ● ● ● PA L ALI M A D DO X ST. CAN LY L ● THE BOX BOUTIQUE A ● STREET OR GROSVEN G ● B EMPE IT L IN I ● ●W B R E E L IA N ● H N H IL L C R A O O C DUN N ’S ● ●C HSO ET RCH MYT CH U RY RE ●S NA ST LLE Z EG A Z T G ● AU X RA UI E LV OPE ●D ND FF ● LOT IN E S TA C O ● DSQUARED2 HUB GRO SV ENOR HILL N TA ● ● O BEL C F IW NNE MP S● ●A CHA H IL IP I ● ONG OO SJ P ●L L Y CH Z IL L M BEL Y DI ● AMP ● J IM MLE FEN IE C C N BRO ET U E E L L& UR ● ● TR L A S E L N O D R U S O ) B S P H E N ’S U L R A ● DR OR ● P O L (C H IL RCH Y Y B U IU ● ERR TO R IU M URB IC ● M N ●B TO E N ’S M ● TLE MÈS GEN H E R O WA ● R IM A● TO N T IA N ● S OP V U IT L ET TO N LOR H A N E O U IS U STRE C R ●L B R● OR D D IO LIFF

EE T

TTE R LO C H AI L B U RY ●T

NEW

BON

D ST

REE

TO OL

DAVIE S ST R EET

NEW

BON

D ST

R EE

S AV

DAVIES STREET

IL E R

NEW

BON

Berkeley Square

E S● IL L IP A D IE N ● K PH ’S L AT E ●P RCH CH ERO O U N H C GO BOU IS O E GR EX ● ●D L R O E L R ● D ●A REY ARD ASP ARI ● HOP ●C P.32 B U L G E T ● IN G IA P ● C PA LAN ET CUS LS ●B RPE U M A R TO N ● R EG EEF & A S B ● IN ● W CL FF Y N IE R ● A A R V SS ● HA GER L LO F N MOU R A F L A U R E B R U N E IN E L L I BAD ● ●G C H LF & NEL S WO ALP ● CU CHA E T ● DEN ●R M R U A NG C H A T IE R ● G TO AR ES ● IN C L ● R OO ● DL BU Y CH B OO OTO ● J IM MU B O U T IN IM M● M IK R R IS ● N L OB E C K H A O IA M T ID IS C H R IC T O R IA D AV V

D ST

REE

ER S

Department Store

Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

D OV

P.34

70 | G U I D E

Conduit Street & Old Bond Street

THE NED

● C H ’S KES ● HUR H AW ●C RKS ES & CL A G IE V N OW IS O MA LA ● ILE R OUR S AV ●F R G IE T ● D2 MA G O A IV E R ARE S A SQU OL EY ● ● D -3 A D ID IYA K E ALD G E E N IN D IA O Z WO AT E N ● Y SEY M ET P.26 SW T ● i ’s B TRE S n ● S N EAS ANY ● IS G TO ecco AKE IN R C T H E CO M P c h L ●D BUR t S N OLD S ke OTO ● I● & SO ELL A M J O H N● TO N AM U C IN S NOR O JI Y ● LO C B IE VAT YO H NEL ● VA R ROM BRU ●C UE M C MN N E N A L IQ IE T ESO V IV M A N ● ●L R EE RSH K ST L HE OOD RNO ● CO R N IE ST W A ETE H● WE OOD ● D EPPE I TOS T ● S ST W C K IN K L E Y G IU Z A N O T WE MA NNE ● .31 I HOC ER ● N IV IE I P O ELL P.32 P T IT ●V &P LD ● IL IP RLU ●K O F E BY NA ●B CK G RHI ● R IG E A B IA BLA FA ROB ●F S E L IC O L E ET ARD N TRE ●W

ST RE ET

M AD DO X

D IE

PET

● YS HEB ● SOT RDS ● A N DW E R E E O S S IA O ● IN TAT SCH MO

T TS

B OLO ●P

OLD

CLI

FFO

RD S

TRE

BON

ER M

ANG ER W A N D EET LEX TR ● A ARLE S

ALB

DEN GAR TO N M O L IN G R R AG A R U E B

With 252 bedrooms, nine restaurants, a members’ club, a barbershop, a beauty salon and a nail bar, The Ned has quickly become one of London’s coolest new hangouts. Housed in a former Midland Bank building in the City of London designed by Sir Edwin ‘Ned’ Lutyens in 1924, the refurbished building remains true to the grandeur of 1920s and 1930s design. Guests at The Ned are granted access to the exclusive members-only Ned’s Club, with its heated rooftop pool and bar, offering stunning views of the City and St Paul’s Cathedral. One of the hotel’s unique features can be found in the basement – the 20-tonne, two-metre-wide vault door which once kept the bank’s strongroom secure now opens into the Vault bar and lounge. The Ned, 27 Poultry, London EC2R 8AJ, +44 (0)20 3828 2000, thened.com

● CO EY RE F Y& L● AT O C A R T N FA N H A N E R ● C A LV C CLE ●S ● LA M N TEL MO DKNY S ● IL A A H AT ● er ● C X MAR PER ● D ove e t A AM O ●M A S t r r k e t RCT U J A NE X ● R A DG A P C A I A R O L IS ● Ma ● TTE A KR I ● AR BO ENET RE NM I ● A OD U LT G I A L L AT R AV M S A IN T ●V ECO CE NI T● R- L N E E G BUC R AE BEL AU ●J A Burlington G LO R ● ● M E G N I Arcade ET ●O TRE T T E IT H I● IA T R O U L S M FO R D S G U CC O N AM D F 1 R A ● P P.3 HE S TA ● AKS VA C N T IN ANA ● D PERL A S TA ABB QUEEN U● A CO N V ER T ● L LCE & G MC ● R E O O T IN ● ●D AND R A LEN LEX R IN VA A R T IE ● ●A ’S MA DI ● O C TO D E T R L RY AL ● IN E R EBB J E WT R E ● &W AL A ● P P IN E R O Y Y T H ES S IA N MA DER H N T ● ● DEM A ● S X HO AC A A L E WA N G B O G E B E E R D I● ADE CAS The Wolseley T IF

OLD

BON

D ST

TRE

ER S

R EE

D OV

PIC ARL ING TO N STR

I L LY

SELECTED STORES IN BURLINGTON ARCADE: REET N ST Manolo Blahnik RMY Bell &J ERoss Frédéric Malle Paul Smith

Le Caprice

CAD

Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

Restaurant

S H O P | 71

Regent Street

TEMPERLEY

LEVI’S ●

● NIKETOWN

H&M ●

● TOPSHOP/TOPMAN

OXFORD CIRCUS BENETTON ●

KAREN MILLEN ● TED BAKER ● APPLE ● LACOSTE ●

OX FO RD ST ● TEZENIS

LONGCHAMP ● MOLTON BROWN ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● TORY BURCH ●

● & OTHER STORIES ● ACCESSORIZE

● ARMANI EXCHANGE ● ALL SAINTS ● H&M STUART M ● WEITZMAN A SC U TU ● AQ U ● COACH T STR EE K D AY OUGH R O B ● W EE L MAR

G R E AT

Liberty

P.28

● COS ● DESIGUAL

R EG E

FURLA ● HOBBS ● BARKER ● TUMI ● CAMPER ● KIPLING ● CLARKS ●

● GAP

ERT

'S P

L AC

● JAEGER ● KURT GEIGER

NAB

Y ST

REET

CAR

NT ST

CHURCH’S ● LINKS OF LONDON ● HACKETT ●

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 68

RE ET

● OMEGA

REGENT STREE T

ASICS ●

● HOUSE OF HANOVER

Fashion imitates art in this season’s sumptuously feminine collection from Temperley. Drawing on regal ruffles from baroque and Elizabethan portraiture as well as art nouveau florals and surrealist lip designs, this collection contains everything from showstopping gowns to high-waisted velvet trousers and chunky knitwear. Tactile elements such as silk, intricate beadwork and sequins are applied to dresses and midiskirts, offering a touch of festive elegance for evening events. Temperley’s creative director Alice Temperley continues to wow fashion insiders and new fans of the brand alike with her directional, quintessentially British and incredibly covetable designs. Temperley, 27 Bruton Street, London W1J 6QN, +44 (0)20 7313 5280, temperleylondon.com

REE

● HAMLEYS

● GANT ● JUICY COUTURE ● HUGO BOSS ● KATE SPADE ● LEVI’S

Cinnamon Soho

● REISS

LQD Premium men’s skincare brand LQD is making its debut in London, and is now available to buy exclusively at Harrods. The Australian brand was founded in 2012 to offer products specifically for men that target common skincare issues, from dryness to ageing. Formulated without sulphates, parabens or other irritants, LQD’s range includes a face wash, a scrub and a serum we swear by. Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, lqd.co.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73

London Underground Station

Department Store

Featured In This Issue

72 | G U I D E

Regent Street, Piccadilly & Jermyn Street ● HUGO BOSS

Cinnamon Soho Jinjuu

● REISS

● WOLFORD ● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● GUESS ● ANTHROPOLOGIE ● MASSIMO DUTTI

S AV I

R EG E

LE R

TRE ET

ILE R OW

● TM LEWIN

PENHALIGON’S ●

JAC+ JACK ●

● FOLLI FOLLIE ● THE BODY SHOP

TOYWATCH ● ● CHESTER BARRIE

BURBERRY ●

DINOSAUR DESIGN ●

D YAR HAM

FRESCOBOL CARIOCA ● BRUMMELS OF LONDON ● ONCE ● MILANO EYEWEAR ● CONCIERGE

● AUSTIN REED ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT ● MOSS BROS GL AS ● UNIQLO SH OU ● COACH SE LONDON TEXTILE CO ● ST ● STEFANEL RE ET ● WOLFORD HOLLISTER ● ● NESPRESSO ● LOTUS

ORLEBAR BROWN ●

REISS ●

’S DON YX WLEY C ’T E R ● RO E T TS LON ● AE M ● EM S NE ● JO L NSPE ’S ● SU U RCH USE ● CH O GLE H NEY ● ● EA CHE A ● L E W IN R T IN A ● TM LA MA NES ● R STO WAT E KS ● DA T IS ● W H IT CURT S TYR ES & ARLE H AW ● CH R EE T RK ST O F YO DUK E DSON & HU Y E L R V IE ROM ● HA L&B SSEL ON ● RU LON D F LD O DRO IN K S ● LLA H IT F IE L W ● & S X TO N JO N E ● PA ON TT & M A IS U L IN E LES OCKE O S CHAR ● CR ● AS E● E R IC K D W IL L ● RO FREY O R IS ● FL BB H N LO ● JO T Y● CKE T & KE ● ET ● HA IT C H STR E S H IL D V IL LE K B AT E ● SON S AC K ● P IN ER & ER FOST IS BARK E ● T R ● WS AK & CU H WES D SPE N D IS ● HA C AV E VERE S ’S JA M E ● DE T ST

UGG ● AUSTRALIA

NT STREET

Fo r t n

● LILLYWHITES

D IL LY

EY ●

C Z EC

P IC C A

OSPR

rcade

Maso

ess A

um &

P r in c

PICCADILLY CIRCUS Piccadilly Circus

R EGE

H AN

ALFR ED DU

YN S

TR EE

VENE

R R EG

L●

I●

ENT S

St James’s Square

CH A R

S T JA

TR EE

KE S

DU UTUM UA S C ● AQ IN K S UFFL IR E C N NGM EE ST ● LO D GR OND B D WA R ● ED OR OF OL YL EY K & ● TA D IT C H ET ● H IL g li n o ’sU RY S T R E B Qua R ASSE LL & NES RNBU ● T U C K E T T & JO O ● CR HAMP C ’S ● DU IC K E R L IS IL ● TR MA W ● E M ID O F F R EE T V ’S S T ● DA MES

R EE T

JER M

OS ● GR

LO W E

N H IL

BOGG

OD ● GWO K ● & L IN N E W OU RBROO H N JO FAV LEY ● ● SMED NS ● O CASE W ILT R E ● MO SL A D TO N ● ES JM W C O ’S ● F R A N T TA ● BERE

YN ST

DENMAN STREET

H BA UNTE RB O R● YA C O C K I E U R ● LC H H I NC I N E L’ S ● LL A PA A● R SH PIQ IS M OP ● IK U VIL WHIT ADR I ● O E T P E B R EQ A R D ● PE ● J E AU I N ● NS ● CAM P MAR Z IO ●O E XC OF L ELLENC OND O N ●E H AW C U R TE S & T H E S IS ● T IN G ●

SUPERDRY ●

● MR HARE

JER M

● ZARA ● MANGO

E RE

VIGO STR EE T

SELECTED STORES IN PRINCESS ARCADE: The Left Shoe Company

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

ES S

TRE

S AV

RUSSELL & ● BROMLEY

ZARA HOME ●

HN S

● MAPPIN & WEBB

GODIVA ● SWAROVSKI ●

E R JO

● TOMMY HILFIGER

● TIMBERLAND

● LANVIN MEN

ER J

LOW

OXFORDS ●

40 SAVILE ROW ●

. K ST

● BROOKS BROTHERS

R EE T

WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND ●

BEA

Blow Ltd.

LOW

L’OCCITANE ●

NT ST

CRABTREE & EVELYN ●

RICHARD JAMES ●

● OUR LEGACY

● LEVI’S

ACE

● JOSEPH

DENM AN PL

HACKETT ● J CREW ●

LE S II

STR E

● JAMES LOCK & CO ● BERRY BROS & RUDD

K IN G

ST R E

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

Blow Dry Bar

Restaurant

Featured In This Issue

Department Store

S H O P | 73

Brompton Road

RO X

N RO AD

●

KENSINGTON ROA D RB ER

D AN ● ER SS TL RO CU G 6 P.3

AD RO

●

BA SIL

●

ER LL PE & Y N GB O RI RS ● DE N SA RT ’ S PE CH UT RU UR ● CH P OR A S H ● GA ND LAS ● PA N G O ● S U KO E S S N R PI SP S IS RE

SELECTED STORES IN HARRODS: Alexandra Llewellyn P.35 Atelier Des Ors Creed Hill & Friends Hublot Lladro LQD P.71 Vertu

HA NS

●

RO AD

●

EE T STR S IL BA

NC T EE

S LE AR CH

LT O

●

R BE AL & M A EU RI S O MU

O I M O AN IU M IN AR LL S O PE NE RI

●

Y E RR SP BE & UL KS M AR M ●

●

NI ●

A ● ANY

PON ● SKANDIUM

Place Of Interest

● JOSEPH

London Underground Station

Hotel

H IN D M

A RCH

ET T ST R E

N RO AD

●

O PAV IL LI

●

O PH

●

L TA

UT RA

●

O OG

D OA

●

ST RE ET

TE TA

CA E AC PL AL EV H C

REET

PY ● RA S HE TE AT I A M C O SO AR AS

ACE

ELIER ST

L OT P CEL

RO CO

TI NA

RE ET

MONTP

N S ST EL IE R P

● KA T RE E ● LU RE L ST HAE ● LK I JO N M RAP IL E ● C BE LE ● G A CO N N E N TT ● SE NT ● A C I KO ● P O CES ● BA RS SO ● W RK CH RI ● T O AT C E R E D Z E ES T ● H M H IG ● M E MY ES N ● K A S KO H O F ● T E U TC SI M O P I L F SW ● D D H L I IE B IN O D ES GE ITZ R ● R U S A ER Z A SS EL KE SKY UT T LA R I R A EL ND L & ● BR FE OM AT KNIGHTSBRIDGE HE LE Y RS

LAN

R PL

ST ER LI M ON TP

●

ST RE ET

T R E VO

WAL K

●

TR EV OR

TREVOR PL

P EL IE R

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

Bulgari Hotel

MONT

HARVEY NICHOLS ●

K EN SI NG TO

74 | G U I D E

ERMANNO SCERVINO While Ermanno Scervino’s heritage lies deep in the heart of Italy, the label looked to heritage of a different kind for its autumn/winter 2017/18 collection. Traditionally British and decidedly masculine, the Prince of Wales check used for this season’s iteration of the Faubourg adds a touch of traditional tailoring to a classic day bag. An injection of fun and femininity comes from the pop of red that runs along the handle, resulting in a bag that’s anything but usual. The timeless wool makes it perfect for winter, conjuring up images of overcoats and falling temperatures. Pair yours with a warm jacket for equally faultless seasonal style.

Ermanno Scervino, 198-199 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QX, +44 (0)20 7235 0558, ermannoscervino.it

Sloane Street North

Sloane Street South CADO GAN GATE

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

CADOGAN PLACE

● AMELIA WICKSTEAD

Harvey Nichols

● PINK ELL IS STREET

● GARRARD C A D O G A N G A R DEN

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

DOLCE & GABBANA ● JITROIS ● CESARE PACIOTTI ● OMEGA ●

ANNE FONTAINE ●

● MONCLER ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ● ESCADA ● MISSONI

● DOLCE & GABBANA

● EMILIO PUCCI ● CHANEL ● ARIJE ● LA PERLA ● HERMÈS

CADOGA N PLACE

PETER JONES ●

KIN

G’ S

Colbe rt

SY MONS STR EE T

Sloane Square ROYAL COURT THEATRE

SLOANE SQUARE S LOA N E G A R D E N S

● SAINT LAURENT

● PICKETT ● N PEAL

LOW ER SLOANE STREET

● VALENTINO

BIONDA ● CASTANA

● HUGO BOSS

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ●

● BULGARI

SLOA NE TERRACE

● MAJE ● CASSANDRA GOAD

● CLUB MONACO ● DODO ● BOGGI ● HOSS INTROPIA ● LINKS OF LONDON ● TM LEWIN ● RIGBY & PELLER ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● WOLFORD ● ELLIOT RHODES ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● BCBGMAXAZRIA ● CATH KIDSTON ● ERIC BOMBARD ● WHISTLES ● COS

LORO PIANA ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ●

PRADA ●

GIORGIO ARMANI ●

● FENDI

● KABIRI BIMBA Y ● LOLA VIVIENNE ● WESTWOOD

WILBR AHA M P L .

● CHLOÉ ● OLIVER PEOPLES ● JO MALONE

LINKS OF LONDON ●

A● HK ● US RS NO TE S ● A N T ROT P L E Y ● O E KO M L I ● TH E BRO L& EL

TOD’S ●

● VERSACE

AMOUAGE ●

BOTTEGA VENETA ●

● MIU MIU

L O W N D E S S T.

SLOANE STREET

JIMMY CHOO ●

● ROGER VIVIER

k an

GUCCI ●

MICHAEL KORS ● DIOR ●

Square

HARRIET ST.

JOSEPH ●

MARNI ●

HACKETT ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● FRANK SMYTHSON ● CARTIER ● TIFFANY & CO ●

P.28 Lowndes

● LOUIS VUITTON ● BERLUTI ● GINA

ROBERTO CAVALLI ●

REDVALENTINO ● DELPOZO ●

● ERMANNO SCERVINO

● TOM FORD

KIK

BONPOINT ●

● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Duc

HOGAN ● GRAFF ●

BOUTIQUE 1 ●

● ALBERTA FERRETTI

SLOANE STREET

DOLCE & GABBANA ● BOODLES ●

● DRIJE

● PAULE KA ● BROWNS ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● ANYA HINDMARCH

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Place Of Interest

Blow Dry Bar

London Underground Station

Restaurant

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 75

Redchurch Street C A LV ● START

ERT A VENU

C A LV

ERT A V EN U

SH LABOUR & WAIT ●

URCH

STRE

EEN

ST R EE

R OA

ROW

EE T

Boxpark

AL GR

R EE T

CLU B

STR EE

STR

BETHN

STRE

TR EE

CATCH & RELEASE ●

EBOR

S H O R E D I TC H H I GH

THOR & WHISTLE ● W HI T BY

HOL ST

R EDCH

THE GALLERY ●

Owl & the Pussycat

F IE L D

RE S

W NOBLE LEATHERWARE ●

HOSTEM ●

STR EE T

SHOREDITCH HOUSE

TC L A

B RO

EET

Albion

Boundary

SUNSPEL ● AIMÉ ● APC ●

MAISON TROIS GARCONS ●

STR EE T

STR E

LIG ON IER STR

IGH

C LU

HH CARHARTT ●

MON

I TC

B O U N DA RY

S WA N

OR R EDCHU RCH

OLD NIC

● URBAN INTERIOR

S C L AT E

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AMETSA WITH ARZAK INSTRUCTION Fusing molecular cuisine with the flavours of the Basque country, Ametsa with Arzak Instruction was awarded a Michelin star in 2013. Under the aegis of chef Elena Arzak, the restaurant’s tasting menu is playful and delicious. The platter of starters includes pumpkin and mandarin soup, among other bite-sized delicacies. Dishes such as scallop and hemp seeds and egg in the leaf follow, each more intriguing than the last. Dessert might be a doughless apple doughnut, or a mango and orange flan. One thing is certain: what you can expect – other than a delightful meal – is the unexpected.

Shopping Centre/Mall

Bar

Ametsa with Arzak Instruction, Como The Halkin, 5 Halkin Street, London SW1X 7DJ, +44 (0)20 7333 1234, comohotels.com/thehalkin

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● WOLF & BADGER EMMA HOPE ● ● ROBIN MARTIN ANTIQUES MARIE-CHANTAL CHILDREN ● ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● ORLEBAR BROWN IRIS ● ● REISS JOSEPH ● MELT ● ● BODAS ASHLEY STORES ● ASSYA LONDON ● ● DAVID CLULOW JEEVES ●

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Beach Blanket Babylon

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TWENTY8TWELVE ● MATCHES ● DIANE VON FURSTENBERG ● THE VILLAGE BICYCLE ● CARAMEL ● EWS EM LYON CHOY LONDON ● V IL L CO L PETIT BATEAU ●

● PETIT AIME

FARA BABY ● FARA KIDS ●

VIL

SHOP DIARY

A ROUND–UP OF THIS SEASON’S MUST–DOS Victoria and Albert Museum Think you know your silk from your satin and your poplin from your peplum? Anyone with an interest in fine fashion must check out the Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum on the work and life of Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga. Discover more than 100 pieces of couture crafted by the designer himself and get an understanding of his legacy. vam.co.uk

NOV

Global Blue Retailer

Skate at Somerset House If you’re in London during December, don’t miss out on the Christmas activities on offer. Ice skating at Somerset House is one of the most sophisticated ways to get into the festive spirit. The outdoor rink in the elegant courtyard is open daily from 15 November to 14 January. Once you’ve done a few graceful circuits of the rink, savour a hot chocolate in Fortnum & Mason’s chic lodge, or linger for one of the special Skate Late nights. somersethouse.org.uk

DEC

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Restaurant

Almeida Theatre No trip to London is complete without exploring the city’s rich theatre culture, which spans everything from hit musicals to Shakespeare. Fans of serious drama should not miss Robert Icke’s adaptation of Friedrich Schiller’s Mary Stuart starring British actresses Juliet Stevenson and Lia Williams as Elizabeth I and Mary Stuart. For excitement as well as a little lesson in British history, this play at the Almeida Theatre is set to be one of best in 2018. almeida.co.uk

JAN

S H O P | 77

MATTHEW CURTIS Renowned hair stylist Matthew Curtis has a stunning Orient Express-inspired boutique salon at the Rosewood London hotel. Curtis wanted to create a hair salon that took inspiration from the world of spas, offering guests a variety of hair treatments and colouring services as well as a luxury blow-dry menu inspired by catwalk trends. All this and more can be found in a beautifully decorated space inside the Sense spa that channels the indulgence of high-end living. This is the third Matthew Curtis salon in the UK and probably the most exciting and luxurious of them all. If you require a more personal touch, Matthew Curtis offers an in-room styling experience for hotel guests.

Matthew Curtis, Rosewood London, 252 High Holborn, London WC1V 7EN, +44 (0)20 3747 8830, matthewcurtis.biz

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78 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP WESTFIELD LONDON

WESTFIELD STRATFORD

With two floors and hundreds of stores, Westfield London is the perfect place to spend a day. Head to The Village where you’ll find the crème de la crème of international luxury brands, from Burberry and Prada to Omega and Gucci. Westfield London, Ariel Way, London W12 7SL, +44 (0)20 3371 2300, uk.westfield.com

Located next to the Olympic Park, Westfield Stratford City is home to an array of leading brands and shops. Look out for British department store John Lewis, Apple and a host of watch brands, from Breitling to Swatch. Westfield Stratford City, Montfichet Road, Olympic Park, London E20 1EJ, +44 (0)20 8221 7300, uk.westfield.com OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-9pm Saturday: 9am-9pm Sunday: 12pm-6pm

OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-10pm Sunday: 12pm-6pm

Westﬁeld Stratford City STRATFORD INTERNATIONAL STRATFORD STATION

KINGS CROSS ST.PANCRAS STATION PADDINGTON STATION

Westﬁeld London

EUSTON

CHARING CROSS STATION LIVERPOOL STREET STATION

SHEPHERD’S BUSH STATION

WATERLOO STATION

HOW TO GET THERE To Westfield London By London Underground There are four Underground stations within walking distance of Westfield London: Shepherd’s Bush and White City on the Central line and Wood Lane and Shepherd’s Bush Market on the Hammersmith & City and Circle lines. By taxi A taxi from central London takes 10 minutes.

Shopping Centre

London Underground Station

To Westfield Stratford City By London Underground The Central and Jubilee lines run a regular service from central London to Stratford station. By train Trains run from Kings Cross-St Pancras and Liverpool Street to Stratford International station. By taxi A taxi from central London takes 25 minutes.

Train Station

S H O P | 79

WESTFIELD LONDON SERVICES

tax refunds • On-site parking • Valet shopping • Hands-free • Same-day hotel delivery

WESTFIELD STRATFORD CITY SERVICES

PHOTOS: G-FONNE PHOTOGRAPHY

Currency exchange • Personal • Hands-freeshopping shopping • Same-day hotel delivery •

globalblue.com

80 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP BICESTER VILLAGE Find your fabulous at Bicester Village, with more than 130 boutiques including Temperley London, The White Company, Marni and dunhill, savings of up to 60% and instant tax refunds.

Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6WD, +44 (0)1869 366266, bicestervillage.com

BICESTER NORTH BICESTER VILLAGE STATION Bicester Village

A41

M40

A41

M1 M40

M25 M40

LONDON

By car Bicester Village is just 60 minutes from London by car. Exit the M40 motorway at Junction 9 and follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester. From Bicester the route is clearly signposted. Look for Bicester Village Outlet Centre. Parking is always free.

Train Station

Outlet Village

By Shopping Express® The Shopping Express® coach service runs direct from central London to Bicester Village. Choose from two routes that operate daily* return services, collecting from selected London hotels. Adult return £28/child return £20 (ages 5-12). *excludes 25 December

By train Travel from London Marylebone direct to Bicester Village Station in as little as 46 minutes, with two services an hour. Travel from Birmingham Moor Street or Birmingham Snow Hill to Bicester North, where a shuttle bus will take you to the Village.

PHOTO: (PROFILE) MICHAEL CHAPMAN

HOW TO GET THERE

S H O P | 81

MY PERFECT DAY SHOP’S COMMERCIAL EDITOR RUAIRIDH PRITCHARD DESCRIBES HOW HE WOULD SPEND A PERFECT DAY AT BICESTER VILLAGE

DON’T MISS… SHOPPING DAY EXPERIENCE This exclusive package includes: Shopping Express® return tickets from central London An additional 10% saving on the outlet price in boutiques Hands-free Shopping – you do the shopping, we do the carrying Lunch or dinner A £50 Bicester Village Gift Card to spend in your favourite boutiques Treat yourself to the perfect day out for £99 per adult. To book, please visit BicesterVillage.com/shoppingpackage.

• • • • •

SERVICES

12pm Start your day at Marni, a favourite of fashion devotees for its experimentation in texture, colour blocking and asymmetry. 1pm L’Atelier showcases the finest luxury jewellery, watches and diamonds. Discover its selection of high-end brands. 2pm Recharge with the amazing flavours of the Far East at Itsu, with 64 delicious, freshly prepared dishes to choose from. 3pm American brand Coach is synonymous with the ease of New York style.

Those little extra touches that help make your visit special: stay connected with free Wi-Fi; shop effortlessly with the Hands-free Shopping and Luggage Drop services; arrive in style with Valet Parking or the Shopping Express®; and earn rewards while you shop with your chosen frequent flyer programme. You can even claim your tax refund in the Village rather than at the airport and purchase more than 40 currencies. To book, please visit BicesterVillage.com/shoppingpackage.

4pm For timeless menswear, leather goods, writing instruments, timepieces and accessories, visit Dunhill, a definitive name in men’s luxury goods.

FABULOUS FOOD

5pm farmshop restaurant & cafe, created by Soho House & Co exclusively for Bicester Village, serves local British and seasonal food.

Bicester Village has a selection of delectable restaurants and cafés that will tempt your taste buds. Whether you’re looking for a speciality coffee, a gourmet breakfast or a three-course dinner, we’ve got just the place for you.

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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

Refund Office Details London Heathrow Terminal 1 London Heathrow Terminal 2 London Heathrow Terminal 3 London Heathrow Terminal 4 London Heathrow Terminal 5

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

London Gatwick North Terminal London Gatwick South Terminal

2. Claim

International Currency Exchange, 339 Oxford Street, London W1C 2JB International Currency Exchange, Westfield London, Ariel Way, London W12 7GF No 1 Currency, City of London Information Centre, St Paul’s Churchyard, London EC4M 8BX Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

Spend a minimum of £30 and save up to 14% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 86 92

TRANSLATIONS

中文翻译 42: One Of A Kind 独一无二的定制珠宝

别墅中摆满了艺术品，她和同事们把这里简称为“房子”，并辟出地下一层作为资深金匠的工作室。一楼和二楼是珠宝陈列区和沙龙，展示着 Jessica令人炫目的当季设计系列，其中包括 Chi Chi系列，它的设计灵感来源是中国古代的算命方式；Trip The Light

紧闭的房门内，伦敦的顶尖珠宝商们正和客户认真探

Fantastic系列，这个系列由亮晶晶的钻石耳环、袖扣、

讨着，力求制作出满足每位客人特殊要求的美丽珠宝。

项链和戒指组成，当客人戴上这些珠宝，一举一动都

请看 Ruairidh Pritchard为您详述其中隐秘

将流光溢彩，令人目眩神迷。

伦敦可以说是目前世界上选购珠宝的最佳地点。从著

通过直接与客人沟通，为他们设计出带有专属个人风

McCormack还为客户提供一整套的综合服务，名的钻石珠宝区哈顿花园（ Hatton Garden）到老邦

格的独一无二的珠宝。“ 在进行设计之前，我通常会花

德街（ Old Bond Street）珠光宝气的橱窗，直让顾客

时间亲自与客人接触，请他们到我们的藏书室来坐

们挑花了眼睛。除了商业街上令人目不暇接的店铺和

坐、聊会天，看看他们喜欢什么、不喜欢什么，了解他

由钻石装点的璀璨橱窗之外，伦敦最优秀的金匠们还

们的个人风格，” McCormack这样描述自己的工作过

为客人提供专属定制服务，将客人的伦敦购物计划升

程，“然后我会把每个客人的故事变成各种图案画在素

级为奢华的私人珠宝定制之旅。

描本上，直到得到最后的完美设计。”

新西兰出生的 Jessica McCormack正是这样一位

这个过程因人而异，一如她的珠宝首饰。她说，“

才华横溢的珠宝设计师，她的工作室就坐落在伦敦富

沟通的频率和程度会因每个客人而异。有的客人喜欢

人区 Mayfair。其最为有名的设计是充满想象力和创

参与到制作的每个阶段中来，而有的则更喜欢等待最

意的 Party Jackets定制戒指系列：它能将原有戒指嵌

后的结果。对每个客人来说，这都是他们专属的私人

入另一个戒指，让原物摇身一变，成为一只全新的甚

定制体验。”

至更加美丽的戒指。珠宝店所在的 Carlos Place联排 globalblue.cn

位于城市另一端的潮流地带东伦敦，珠宝设计师

Ana de Costa也为不少眼光独到的客户提供珠宝定制服务。2005年从伦敦中央圣马丁艺术设计学院毕业后，de Costa曾为 Shaun Leane工作过一段时间，期间因设计了Alexander McQueen的 T台秀珠宝系列和 Erickson Beamon的时尚珠宝系列而声名鹊起，继而开设了自己的工作室，非预约不得见。“定制珠宝和精品珠宝的选择总体来说是相当情绪化和个人化的，而我喜欢花时间去了解我的客户，” de Costa解释道。 “ 我会和他们探讨对珠宝设计的初步想法，了解客人的预算，用这些来指导我在前期调查中找到合适的宝石和概念。” 对客户诉求的深入调查和充分理解是

de Costa得以在竞争中崭露头角的主要原因。举例来说，她的最新定制工作是为一位伦敦客户设计订婚戒指。而这只订婚戒指上最重要的宝石正是来自准新娘的祖国俄罗斯，这是 de Costa在充分了解客户后做出的选择。和 McCormack一样，整个设计过程从头到尾都是为客人量身打造的专属服务。“一旦开始制作，我会定期与客人沟通，报告制作进程，或者根据客人的要求，给他们发送制作过程的照片。不过我发现，很多客人其实更喜欢享受看到最终成品时的惊讶和喜悦。”

Sabine Getty是另一位优秀的伦敦珠宝商。她的最新设计系列：Baby Memphis是品类丰富的

Memphis系列的延续，但设计中加入了她初为人母的

也的确实至名归。这条街上云集了许多才华横溢的业

特别心情。这个系列运用了各种色彩鲜艳的宝石，设计

界大师，连街名都已成为顶级西装定制的代名词。无

出可叠加的戒指和手链以及容易拼接的耳环与项链，

论男女，无论古典或现代风格，提到量体裁衣，除了这

为搭配留下无限的创意空间。

里，整个伦敦无出其右者。

在 Getty为伦敦最挑剔的客户们做设计时，往往

19世纪初，萨维尔街迎来了第一批因看好其在富

能从他们对她的现成设计的反应中得到灵感。她说，“

人区 Mayfair的良好位置而选择这里开创事业的裁缝

新的设计系列一经推出，往往会收到不少客户的请

师，时至今日，这里依然是伦敦城最富庶的街区。虽然

求，希望保留某个产品的设计但换掉上面镶嵌的宝

最早的一批制衣店已荡然无存，今天活跃在这条黄金

石，或是用客人自己的宝石代替。” 当谈到如何创作出

大道上的商家大多也拥有悠久的历史，比如 Henry

独特的设计时，她说，“这是需要细致观察和时间的。

Poole & Co。这家于 1846年入驻此街的公司如今就坐

设计师必须认真聆听客人的描述，弄清楚他们到底想

落在萨维尔街 15号。

要什么。整个过程中我会与客户进行多次沟通，但通常在初次交谈时我就能充分感知客人的真正诉求。” 看到客人收到完全符合自己预期的成品时满足的

创始人亨利 • 普尔( Henry Poole)自1846年起便一直经营这家公司直到 1876年。在此期间，他曾为当时的未来法国皇帝拿破仑三世裁制衣袍，还曾受雇于维

表情是最令 Getty开心的事。“最让人有成就感的是，

多利亚女王，也是当时的威尔士亲王，即后来的国王

客人觉得自己获得了一件十分特别的东西：一款专门

爱德华七世的御用裁缝。普尔经营公司的三十年间，

为他们设计的、彰显自身个性的珠宝。”

对于萨维尔街成长为闻名遐迩的高级西装定制中心来说功不可没，而他的公司正是其中一颗璀璨的明

48: A Cut Above

星。20世纪初的萨维尔街是世界上最大的高级西装定

匠心独运

制场所，总共雇佣了 300名裁缝师和 14名剪裁师。

萨维尔街虽因其悠久而卓越的西装定制历史闻名于

愿意不远千里来到伦敦，只为得到一件 Poole为他们量

世，这条大街上的每个品牌却都将目光坚定地投向未

身定制的高级西装。众所周知的晚宴礼服（又称 “ 燕尾

时至今日，世界各国品味挑剔的精英男士们依然

来。Maria Kirchen- Hill报道

服”）正是 Poole公司的杰作，因此自然也是公司最受欢迎的定制选择之一。不过，公司优秀的制衣团队的

伦敦萨维尔街（ Savile Row）是世界上最著名的男装

实力可不只如此，除常礼服和晚礼服之外，还能为客

定制之所，被称为“ 西装定制的黄金大道 ”，而这一切

人量身定制西装外套、运动夹克、衬衫和大衣等多种

globalblue.cn

服饰 — — 当然，还有最经典的西装套装，以及各种各样的精美饰品。客人可以从 6000多种布料中自由选

52: To The Power Of Two 强强联合

择 — — 每种面料都是个中精品 — —而一丝不苟的专业裁缝师们将确保每一刀剪裁都能与每位客人的尺寸完

从朋克摇滚时尚到政治活动，Vivienne Westwood四

美贴合。

十年来一直是英国文化的一个重要象征。她的丈夫兼

与 Henry Poole & Co一样，萨维尔街也在与时俱

设计伙伴 Andreas Kronthaler最近也开始频繁出现

进的演变中迎来了众多国际顶尖时尚品牌的加盟。“成

在聚光灯下，Hannah Lewis对这组时尚界的最酷夫

衣 ”的概念首次出现是在 1970年代，其代表品牌有

妻档一探究竟

Gieves & Hawkes和 Hardy Amies。除此之外，最近还有不少国外知名品牌入驻这条大街。法国高档时装

很可能就变成昨日黄花，但 Vivienne Westwood却是

址，提供包括男士成衣系列、品牌专属奢华领结、种类

个异数。Westwood于 1971年首次登上时尚舞台，并

繁多的饰品和皮制品在内的各类商品，甚至还提供西

与当时的合作伙伴 Malcolm McLaren一起，为朋克

装定制的服务。对于浪凡来说，选择萨维尔街作为旗

时代风格作出了重要定义。从那时起至今的四十年

舰店的所在是一种必然。“它是个传奇，”浪凡的设计

中，Westwood一直处在时尚与文化的前沿地带，从未

师 Alber Elbaz在旗舰店揭幕时说，“ 在我看来，伦敦

衰落。她所创造的品牌如此成功，已成为世界上最大

再也找不出第二个可与之媲美的地方了。”

的时尚标签之一，而设计师本人也被认为是当今世界

双胞胎兄弟 Dean和 Dan Caten联手打造了知名时尚品牌 Dsquared2，他们在考虑开设实体店时也有

最具影响力的创作者和活动家。

1988年，Westwood开始在维也纳应用艺术学院

类似想法。“开设伦敦旗舰店对我们两兄弟来说是特别

（ Vienna School of Applied Arts）任教。在那里她

的，因这是我们居住的城市，源源不断地激发着我们的各种设计灵感，”他们说，“选择萨维尔街和 Conduit

认识了正在学习时尚设计的 Andreas Kronthaler。 Kronthaler的原创设计吸引了 Westwood的目光，她

街的交汇点作为店址绝非偶然。天长日久，萨维尔街

决定邀请他去伦敦继续深造。他受文艺复兴的启发所

已经成为了追求时尚的男士们的首选地之一。它凭借评 — —而我们的设计也处处体现着这种珍贵的价

设计的 “太阳轮”连衣裙被收入了 1989年的 Vivienne Westwood系列设计。就这样，两人开始了合作伙伴的关系，而这种合作逐渐成为了该品牌的核心。1993年

值。” 这家精品店囊括了该品牌所有的产品系列，包括

两人步入了婚姻的殿堂，时至今日依旧是彼此事业和

采用纯新羊毛和弹力棉的现代剪裁设计，以及女士服

生活的最佳伴侣。

一流的质量、良好的传统和原创性赢得了世界好

装。

Westwood和 Kronthaler的强强联手进一步巩固萨维尔街虽然在过去的几十年间发生了诸多变

化，但其核心始终还是高级西装定制艺术。对此，40

Savile Row公司的商业拓展经理 Tess Harriott评价道，这样的物品是不受年龄、地位或任何其它世俗禁锢的。“ 40 Savile Row的客户包括向往时尚的青少年，刚刚毕业为自己挑选第一套面试西装的学生，从事银行业、法律或保险业的专业人士等等。还有些顾客将拥有一件萨维尔街的西装当作梦想，每逢重要场合才肯穿上。” 这个由家族经营的制衣公司的一流服务正是萨维尔街闪亮的活招牌。“无论何人，来者是客，”经理

Harriott说，“ 我们每一个人都有 15年以上的从业经验，足以照顾体态各异、品味不同的各类顾客需求，也知道如何引导他们做出最适合自己的选择。我们都是完美主义者，因此绝不允许任何低于最高标准的衣饰 PHOTO: MEINKE KLEIN @UNIT

在这喜新厌旧的时尚圈，今天的当红炸子鸡到了明天

品牌浪凡（ Lanvin）就将这里作为其伦敦男装旗舰店

被卖给顾客，尤其是在西装的剪裁与贴身性方面。西装的审美完全由顾客本人决定，而这正是它的独特之处。” 既能秉承西装定制超越时间的经典之美，又能对各种时尚风潮保持开放而包容的态度，难怪萨维尔街历经时间的洗涤，至今仍享誉全球。

并加强了品牌实力。对 Kronthaler来说，这一切的关键是平衡和相互尊重：“ Vivienne是一个相当有革新

眼光的人，她的个人形象和产品设计个人风格强烈，

收品，染色和生产时也尽量采用环保的方法。而剪裁

很容易识别。她既是朋克也是学者。我第一次见到她

衣服时也会在方式上花一番心思，尽量避免制造垃

的时候就了解了这点。我也很有眼光，于是我们将彼

圾。“买少买精，历久弥新”是她提出的重要口号。

此的资源结合了起来，无论是智慧上的还是身体上

Westwood的真正才能是，将这样的政治宣言与

的。人们常常问我，要怎么样才能既做夫妻又作同事。

设计完美结合。她将艺术和时尚看作表达思想的重要

我想这是因为我们两人都非常包容，这对彼此都是一

平台，而这些严峻的问题始终占据着她那颗积极而热

种激励：一个学习的过程。”

血的心。她将反气候变化使命的宣言，用极其艺术的

该品牌的金牌系列（ Gold Label）会在每季的巴

方式，挥洒在这一季的中性长裤和上衣上，而其它部

黎时装周上展示，自 2016/ 17年秋冬季起被更名为

分则选用了大胆的印花设计（包括抽象和清晰两种图

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood。更名

案）、拼花、格子布和适量金属甲片。其中尤为引人注

的部分原因是要强调这个品牌是两人合作的结果。

目的是一条红色修身连衣裙，外加一件同色夹克，

“这么些年来，Andreas对于公司的重要性和责任都在

Westwood为之搭配了一双红色的长靴、一条红色披风和一顶针织巴拉克拉法帽。她的 T台造型夸张大

不断增加，而我希望能让公众了解这一点。”

Westwood如此回答。但此举也表明了两人的独立性。“ 我和 Vivienne一起做设计已经有 25年以上了，” 他说，“ 我们想要明确彼此的区别。Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood这个系列：只代表我。而它相对来说更偏高级定制风。” 品牌各方面的事务两位设计师多少都有参与，但

胆，但其中的每一件单品却都是能够在日常生活中穿戴的。这是两个风格明显不同的系列，然而仅仅只是把两种风格简单的陈列在一起，就能立刻看出两者的共通之美。Vivienne Westwood的设计风格一直是时尚界最为浓墨重彩的一笔。“ 我们都在变，” Kronthaler

是将两者在设计上分别开来，将使这种差异有机会转

说。而我们将拭目以待，看看他们究竟会有怎样的改

变成公司的一大特色。“工作的时候，我们一开始总是

变。

南辕北辙，但最后还是会回到一起 — — 我们的工作方式非常不同，” Kronthaler在解释设计过程时说，“ 我喜欢不断的尝试和改变，很难感到满足，而这些让

82: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Vivienne很抓狂。她的工作方式很不一样：先思考如

畅购全球，尊享退税

何做，然后做决定，之后便按照自己的决定去实施 — — 她做事是一板一眼的，逻辑性很强。而我更喜欢

当您在全球顶级购物区中的 30万多家商店消费时，环

先把所有能想到的东西都提出来，在一片混乱中寻找

球蓝联（ Global Blue）购物退税服务（ Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（ Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（ Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程：

正确秩序。”

2017/ 18年秋冬季的 Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood系列设计灵感来自于设计师的家乡。“设计到最后我终于明白了一点，我是一位奥地利设计师，” Kronthaler在介绍这一系列时说，“ 我的设计应该体现出我的国籍，勾画出我的形象。祖国的山水、人民、传统服饰：这些是我的根。我花了很长时间

1. 消费购物

才意识到本源的重要性。” 作为向 “维也纳工作联盟”

无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格

（ Wiener Werkstätte）的致敬之作 — — 这个联盟中包

（ Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。

含了维也纳在 20世纪初的一大批艺术家— —本次的系列设计将向人们展示独特的奥地利风情，比如雪绒

2. 申请退税

花，比如受阿尔卑斯山农家少女传统服饰的启发创作

当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请

的廓形等。不过，Kronthaler受奥地利艺术家们启

他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退

发— — 比如古斯塔夫 •克利姆特（ Gustav Klimt）

税点领取您的退税款。

— —而设计出的大胆的油漆泼洒纹、印花和鲜艳的色彩混搭等，都带着强烈的 Vivienne Westwood的

联系方式：

印记。而本季的 Vivienne Westwood主线设计中， Westwood再次以 T台和自己的设计为平台，通过布景

taxfree@ globalblue. com + 421 232 111 111 最低消费 £ 30即可节省高达 14%的商品购买价。请注

安排，讲述了一个有关生态战士抗击气候变化威胁的

意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手

故事。Westwood是著名的活动家，她的公司也坚持以

续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退

绿色环保的方式工作 — — 她所使用的材料很多来自回

税手续费。

globalblue.cn

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 42: One Of A Kind Только для вас Руайрид Притчард рассказывает о ведущих лондонских ювелирах, которые приглашают клиентов в свои мастерские Бриллиантовые витрины Олд-Бонд-Стрит, ювелирный квартал Хаттон-Гарден – Лондон по праву считается одним из лучших городов мира для покупки украшений. Но в стороне от шума торговых улиц и громких вывесок работают те ювелиры, которые предпочитают создавать произведения на заказ. Джессика Маккормак приехала из Новой Зеландии и стала одним из самых известных ювелиров в Мэйфэр. Славу ей принесли кольца Party Jackets, которые надеваются поверх уже имеющихся колец и преображают их до неузнаваемости. Она окружила себя профессионалами ювелирного искусства и организовала мастерскую в цокольном этаже великолепного особняка на Carlos Place. Вместе они украсили его произведениями искусства и называют просто «домом». Первые два этажа дома занимает салон, где выставлены сезонные коллекции Маккормак. Особого внимания достойна серия Chi Chi, вдохновленная древним китайским гаданием, а также бриллиантовые серьги, браслеты, ожерелья и кольца под общим названием Trip The Light Fantastic, которые двигаются вместе со своим обладателем и создают гипнотическое мерцание. Маккормак также создает украшения по индивидуальному заказу. И они получаются по-настоящему оригинальными, благодаря тесному сотрудничеству с клиентом: «Мне нравится проводить время с покупателями в нашей библиотеке за разговорами и обсуждениями. Мы обсуждаем предпочтения, а заодно я лично знакомлюсь с их стилем, – рассказывает о творческом процессе Маккормак. – Затем я превращаю личную историю в многочисленные эскизы, из которых вырастает финальный дизайн». Творческий процесс всегда индивидуален, как и сами украшения: «С каждым новым покупателем globalblue.ru

отношения строятся по-новому. Некоторым нравится вовлекаться в процесс на каждом этапе, а другие предпочитают дождаться готового украшения. У каждого человека собственный путь», – утверждает она. В противоположной части Лондона, в трендовом Ист-Энде, находится мастерская ювелирного дизайнера Аны де Коста. Она окончила колледж Central Saint Martins в 2005 году и работала с Шон Лином над подиумными коллекциями для Alexander McQueen и с брендом костюмных украшений Erickson Beamon. Затем она открыла собственное ателье: «Авторские украшения и предметы ювелирного искусства в целом – всегда очень эмоциональное и личное приобретение. Поэтому мне особенно нравится проводить

время с покупателями. Мы обсуждаем первоначальные идеи и бюджеты, поскольку это ляжет в основу подбора образов и камней», – объясняет дизайнер. Столь глубокое исследование и умение быстро понять потребности клиентов и делают де Коста особенной. Среди ее недавних произведений – необычное обручальное кольцо для живущего в Лондоне заказчика. Для дизайна она задействовала драгоценные камни с родины будущей невесты – из России. Как и Маккормак, де Коста подстраивает весь творческий процесс от начала и до конца под интересы клиентов. «С первого дня я регулярно выхожу на связь, чтобы держать их в курсе происходящего. Если они желают, я отправляю фотографии творческого процесса. Но многие любят сюрпризы и предпочитают дождаться готового украшения». Сабин Гетти – еще один известный лондонский ювелир. Ее коллекция Baby Memphis выросла из роскошной коллекции Memphis и основывается на новом опыте дизайнера в роли молодой матери. Кольца и браслеты с яркими камнями можно собирать самостоятельно, а серьги и ожерелья легко сочетать – и это дает бесконечный потенциал для создания разнообразных образов. Увидев работы Гетти, даже самые требовательные знатоки обращаются к ней с индивидуальными заказами: «После выхода коллекции я обычно получаю запросы на похожие украшения, но с другими камнями или камнями клиентов». По ее наблюдениям, для создания уникальных вещей «требуется время и внимание»: «Необходимо прислушиваться к тому, чего хочет клиент, чего он пытается добиться. Поэтому мы всегда общаемся в процессе работы, но именно в первую встречу я составляю представление о его желаниях». Больше всего Гетти вдохновляет незабываемый момент, когда заказчик наконец получает столь желанную вещь: «Самое прекрасное – это видеть, как он осознает, что он обладает особенным ювелирным произведением, сделанным исключительно для него».

globalblue.ru

48: A Cut Above Золотой стежок Великая история улицы Сэвил-Роу помогает ее обитателям уверенно смотреть в будущее, – рассказывает Мария Кирхен-Хилл Сэвил-Роу называют «золотой портновской милей» Лондона: во всем городе нет лучшего места для заказа одежды по индивидуальной мерке. Самые талантливые портные сделали эту улицу олицетворением великолепной одежды – мужской и женской, классической и современной. Первые портные пришли на СэвилРоу в начале 19 века, поскольку здесь же, в Мэйфэре, жили и до сих пор живут стильные и обеспеченные горожане. До наших дней

не сохранилось ни одной первоначальной компании, но все же здесь много салонов с впечатляющей историей. Henry Poole & Co – один из таких: он работает здесь с 1846 года по одному и тому же адресу Savile Row, 15. Основатель компании Генри Пул, давший ей свое имя, работал с 1846 до 1876 и одевал будущего императора Франции Наполеона III, королеву Викторию и Принца Уэльского, который впоследствии стал королем Эдвардом VII. На протяжении трех десятилетий он принимал непосредственное участие в становлении Сэвил-Роу и превращении улицы в рай для ценителей костюмов по индивидуальной мерке. Конечно, сам Пул стал одной из ее самых ярких звезд. К началу 20 века его ателье было одним из самых крупных в мире: в нем работали 300 портных и 14 закройщиков. До сих пор джентльмены из всех частей света устремляются в Лондон, чтобы заказать костюм в Poole. Именно этому ателье приписывается изобретение вечернего пиджака – смокинга. Кроме того, здесь можно заказать утренний или вечерний образ: блейзеры, спортивные куртки, рубашки, пальто, красивые аксессуары к ним и, разумеется, костюмы. Клиенты выбирают из 6000 образцов тканей неизменно высочайшего качества – и команда воплощает любой предмет одежды по вашим конкретным меркам. Henry Poole & Co развивался с течением времени, как и вся улица Сэвил-Роу. За прошедшие годы на ней появились многочисленные модные бренды. Коллекции готовой одежды представили британские бренды Gieves & Hawkes и Hardy Amies в 1970-е, но иностранные марки пришли сюда относительно недавно. Французский модный дом Lanvin открыл на Сэвил-Роу флагманский магазин, где предлагает готовую мужскую одежду, кожгалантерею, роскошные галстуки-бабочки и другие аксессуары, а также услуги пошива костюмов по мерке. Для Lanvin выбор места был очевидным: «Сэвил-Роу – это легенда, – объяснил Альбер Эльбаз, который работал дизайнером марки во время открытия. – На мой взгляд, в Лондоне для нас просто нет

другого места». Того же мнения придерживаются Дин и Дан Катен – братья-близнецы и креативные директора марки Dsquared2: «Флагманский магазин в Лондоне очень важен для нас, поскольку мы живем в городе, под его влиянием и вдохновением. И мы неслучайно выбрали пересечение Сэвил-Роу и Conduit Street. С годами эта улица стала очень важным направлением для стильных мужчин и олицетворением высокого качества, традиций и оригинальности – то есть тех ценностей, которые мы также разделяем». В бутике Dsquared2 представлены все коллекции бренда, в том числе современные костюмы из новых видов шерсти и тянущегося хлопка, а также женская одежда. В последние десятилетия открылись совсем новые магазины, однако в сердце Сэвил-Роу по-прежнему костюм, созданный по индивидуальной мерке. Как объясняет Тесс Харриот, менеджер по развитию бизнеса в 40 Savile Row, качественный костюм притягивает всех – вне зависимости от возраста, профессии. «В 40 Savile Row приходят самые разные покупатели – от модного тинейджера и выпускника университета, который выбирает костюм для первого собеседования, до банкиров, юристов и страховых агентов. У нас также есть посетители, которые всегда мечтали о костюме с Сэвил-Роу – и приобретают его по особому случаю». Это семейное предприятие можно привести в пример исключительного сервиса, характерного для этой улицы: «Мы рады всем, – утверждает Харриот. – 15-летний опыт в этом бизнесе позволяет работать с любыми фигурами, угождать любому вкусу и помогать покупателям с выбором. Мы все – перфекционисты, поэтому ни один костюм не покидает ателье, пока мы не убедимся в его совершенстве, особенно в том, как он сидит. Причем заказчик непосредственного участвует в разработке костюма, и это делает его уникальным». Это и есть формула успеха: стиль вне времени и умение работать с любыми моделями и трендами. Неудивительно, что Сэвил-Роу с легкостью поддерживает свою мировую славу.

52: To The Power Of Two Удвоенная сила

Мир моды изменчив: сегодняшние звезды завтра уже устареют. На этом фоне такие явления, как Вивьен Вествуд, – большая редкость. Она ворвалась на модную сцену в 1971 году и вместе со своим партнером Малкольмом Маклареном предопределила образ эпохи панка. С тех пор, вот уже более четырех десятилетий, без Вествуд невозможно представить британскую моду и культуру. Бренд Vivienne Westwood стал одним из самых крупных в мире, а сама дизайнер – одним из самых влиятельных художников и активистов в современном мире. В 1988 году Вествуд начала преподавать в Венском университете прикладных искусств. Там она и встретила Андреаса Кронталера, изучавшего модный дизайн. Оригинальные модели Кронталера заинтересовали Вествуд, и она пригласила его в Лондон для дальнейшего их развития. В 1989 году его платья-солнце, вдохновленные искусством Возрождения, появились в коллекции Vivienne Westwood. И так началось партнерство, ставшее ключевым для бренда. Вествуд и Кронталер поженились в 1993, и сегодня они остаются партнерами и в работе, и в жизни. Вместе Вествуд и Кронталер делают бренд все сильнее и сильнее. Кронталер связывает это с уравновешенностью и взаимным уважением: «Вивьенн – личность с революционным подходом ко всему, ее образ и стиль легко узнаваемы. Она – панк и ученый, и к моменту нашей встречи она уже состоялась. У меня также есть свой подход, и мы объединили наши ресурсы – интеллектуальные и физические. Нас часто спрашивают, как можно жить и работать вместе постоянно. Мы оба очень толерантны, и это дает силу: мы постоянно учимся». globalblue.ru

Линия Gold Label каждый сезон представляется на Парижской неделе моды. В этот раз она была переименована в Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, что отчасти связано с этим желанием продемонстрировать совместную работу над брендом. «Постепенно сфера ответственности Андреаса расширяется, и я бы хотела, чтобы это отразилось и на общественном восприятии», – так Вествуд объясняла этот шаг. В то же время новое название подчеркивает, что это плод труда двух творческих личностей: «Я работаю с Вивьен уже более 25 лет, – объясняет Кронталер. – Мы хотели ясно показать линию каждого. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood: это я. Эта коллекция более авторская». Они оба в какой-то мере включены во все аспекты деятельности бренда, но такое разделение позволяет своеобразию каждого процветать: «Мы всегда работаем по отдельности, поскольку у каждого свой ритм, а потом мы снова встречаемся, – рассказывает Кронталер о творческом процессе. – Я постоянно пробую новое и без конца преображаю и дорабатываю вещи. Я редко бываю доволен полностью, и это сводит Вивьен с ума. Она другая: она достигает чего-то, принимает окончательное решение, а потом основывается на них – она очень последовательна и логична. Я постоянно создаю хаос, прежде чем привести все дела в порядок». Коллекция осень-зима 2017-18 лейбла Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood создана под влиянием австрийской культуры: «В какой-то момент я осознал, что

PHOTO: KAMIL KUSTOSZ

Вивьен Вествуд с ее панк-роком и политическим активизмом в моде остается культовой фигурой британской культуры уже более 40 лет. Постепенно в центре внимания оказывается ее супруг и партнер по дизайну Андреас Кронталер. Ханна Льюис рассказывает о самой неординарной паре модного мира

воспринимаю себя дизайнером с австрийскими корнями, – комментирует Кронталер. – Мне хотелось проявить свою национальную принадлежность и идентичность. Пейзажи, народ, костюмы – все это мои корни. И мне потребовалось время, чтобы осознать важность моего происхождения». Кроме того, коллекция посвящена Wiener Werkstätte – венскому сообществу художников и мастеров начала 20 века, поэтому в ней появились австрийские народные мотивы: альпийские цветы и силуэты дирндля. äаметны и влияния австрийский живописи (в то числе Густава Климта): они заметны в брызгах ярких красок, смелых принтах и насыщенных цветах. И все это только подчеркивает присущую Vivienne Westwood пышность и избыточность стиля. Представляя основную коллекцию Vivienne Westwood в этом сезоне, Вивьен Вествуд вновь превратила свои работы и показ в повод для высказывания. На этот раз это истории эко-воинов, которые сражаются с климатическими изменениями. Вествуд – заметный активист зеленого движения: в ее компании задействованы переработанные материалы, безопасные для окружающей среды красители и экологичные производственные процессы. Даже раскрой ткани происходит таким образом, чтобы максимально избежать отходов. «Покупайте меньше, выбирайте тщательно, пользуйтесь долго» – вот ее основной девиз. Вествуд – гений переплетения политических заявлений и модных коллекций. Для нее искусство и мода – серьезный плацдарм для различных идей, и она с пылом выступает по серьезным общественным вопросам. Ее отношение к борьбе с климатическими изменениями наиболее ярко отразилось в декоре брюк и топов унисекс, а в других вещах она отдала предпочтение смелым принтам (абстрактным и фотографическим), аппликациям-пэчворк, складкам и золотому ламэ. В одном из впечатляющих образов соединились красное платье, жакет, красные сапоги до колена, красная накидка и вязаная балаклава. Конечно, столь яркое подиумное сочетание призвано сделать важное заявление более заметным, но по отдельности все вещи

Vivienne Westwood, бесспорно, удобны в сочетании. Это две очень разные коллекции, вдохновленные очень разными культурными и общественными явлениями. При этом если сопоставить ключевые образы с каждой стороны, то проявляется их эстетическое единство. Стиль Vivienne Westwood остается одним из самых узнаваемых в мире моды: «Мы идем дальше вместе», – говорит об этом Кронталер. А нам остается только ждать и наблюдать, куда этот путь приведет их в будущем. 82: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум 30 £ и сэкономьте до 14% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

‫‪92‬‬

‫رشكتها مبراعاة البيئة بحيث تتم إعادة تدوير الكثري من املواد التي‬ ‫الذي كان يَدرس تصميم األزياء‪ .‬لفتت تصاميمه املبتكرة انتباهها‬ ‫ُفصل‬ ‫ف َد َعته إىل لندن للميض بها قدماً‪ .‬وقد شملت مجموعة ‪ Vivienne‬تستخدمها أو تقوم بعمليّات دباغة وتصنيع صديقة للبيئة‪ .‬ت ّ‬ ‫‪ Wetwood‬سنة ‪ 1989‬فساتينه “دوالب الشمس” املستوحاة من املالبس بطريقة تنتج أقل كميّة ممكنة من النفايات‪ .‬من شعارات‬ ‫أقل واختاروا الجيّد واملتني“‪.‬‬ ‫عرصالنهضة‪ .‬ومذّاك تولّدت بينهام رشاكة أصبحت يف ما بعد جزءا ً ال العالمة األساسيّة‪“ :‬اشرتوا ّ‬ ‫تكمن موهبة ‪ Westwood‬الحقيقيّة يف إدخال هذه‬ ‫يتج ّزأ من العالمة‪ .‬تز ّو“ الثنايئ سنة ‪ 1993‬وما زاال اليوم رشيكني يف‬ ‫الترصيحات السياسيّة يف مجموعاتها بسالسة مطلقة‪ .‬ترى يف الف ّن‬ ‫الحياة العمليّة والزوجيّة‪.‬‬ ‫مهامً لألفكار‪ ،‬ومل تنتقص القضايا امله ّمة من رؤيتها‬ ‫سويّاً‪ ،‬حملت ‪ Westwood‬و‪ Kronthaler‬العالمة من‬ ‫واألزياء منربا ً ّ‬ ‫لتغري املناخ‬ ‫نجاح إىل آخر‪ .‬يتحدّث ‪ Kronthaler‬عن التوازن واالحرتام املتبادل الثائرة والحيويّة قطّ‪ .‬فظهرت ترصيحاتها املناهضة ّ‬ ‫يف عالقتهام فيقول‪“ :‬تتمتّع‪ Vivienne‬برؤية ثوريّة وتحظى أعاملها بطريقة فنيّة جميلة عىل الرساويل والقمصان يف هذه املجموعة‬ ‫املناسبة للجنسني‪ ،‬يف حني لجأت يف قطعٍ أخرى إىل النقوش الجريئة‬ ‫وإسمها بشهر ٍة واسعة‪ .‬إنّها من ر ّواد البانك والفكر يف آنٍ واحد وقد‬ ‫الخاصة وجمعنا (املج ّردة والتصويريّة) واألبليك الرتقيعي ونقوش املربّعات وحفنة‬ ‫اتّضح يل ذلك منذ أن التقيتها‪ .‬فقدّمت بدوري رؤيتي ّ‬ ‫اللامع‪ .‬ومن التصاميم املميّزة فستان أنيق‬ ‫رس نجاح العالقة‬ ‫سخيّة من القامش الذهبي ّ‬ ‫مواردنا الفكريّة واملاديّة‪ .‬يسألني البعض عن ّ‬ ‫نسقته ‪ Westwood‬مع جزمة‬ ‫بني زوجني يعيشان ويعمالن مع بعضهام البعض‪ .‬فأجيبهام بأنّنا‬ ‫أحمر اللّون مع جاكيت مالمئة وقد ّ‬ ‫حمراء عالية السا” ووشاح أحمر وقناع محبوك‪ .‬صحيح أ ّن تصاميمها‬ ‫متسامحان ونتعلّم من بعضنا البعض‪”.‬‬ ‫كل قطعة منفردة قابلة لالرتداء‪.‬‬ ‫املنصة صارخة‪ ،‬لكن ّ‬ ‫غريت العالمة إسم خطّها ‪ Gold‬التي تُعرض عىل ّ‬ ‫لخريف‪/‬شتاء ‪ّ ،2016/2017‬‬ ‫عىل الرغم من اختالف هاتني املجموعتني واختالف مصادر‬ ‫كل موسم يف أسبوع باريس للموضة ليصبح‬ ‫‪ Label‬الذي يُعرض ّ‬ ‫إلهامهام‪ ،‬يربز األسلوب الجاميل املشرتك بينهام حاملا تضعهام جنباً إىل‬ ‫‪.Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood‬‬ ‫جنب‪ .‬يبقى أسلوب ‪ Vivienne Westwood‬من األقوى يف عامل‬ ‫ويعود ذلك جزئيّاً إىل الرغبة بتقديم العالمة كمرشوع مشرتك‪.‬‬ ‫األزياء‪ .‬يقول ‪ Kronthaler‬معلّقاً‪“ :‬تط ّورنا مع بعضنا البعض”‪ .‬فام‬ ‫قالت ‪ Westwood‬آنذاك‪“ :‬مع مرور الوقت‪ ،‬ك َُربت مسؤوليّات‬ ‫علينا إال أن ننتظر لرنى أين سيحملهام هذا التط ّور‪.‬‬ ‫‪ ،Andreas‬فوددت أن يعرف الجميع بذلك‪ ”.‬كام شكّل ذلك‬ ‫كل منهام‪ .‬يرشح ‪ Kronthaler‬قائالً‪“ :‬ص ّممت مع‬ ‫اعرتافاً بفرديّة ّ‬ ‫كل م ّنا‪.‬‬ ‫‪ Vivienne‬ملا يزيد عن ‪ 25‬سنة‪ .‬فرغبنا بتوضيح خ ّط ّ‬ ‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪ Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood‬خ ّط‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 82‬‬ ‫خاص يب وتركّز املجموعة عىل األزياء الفاخرة‪”.‬‬ ‫عندما تتس ّو” حول العامل‪ ،‬تس ّو” من دون دفع الرضيبة‬ ‫كل مص ّمم بكل ناحية من العالمة التجاريّة‪،‬‬ ‫بطريق ٍة ما‪ ،‬يهتم ّ‬ ‫لكن يربز االختالف بينهام بفضل هذا الفصل‪ .‬يقول ‪ Kronthaler‬تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّو” من دون‬ ‫دفع الرضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكرث من‬ ‫عن عمليّة التصميم‪“ :‬نعمل دوماً بشكلٍ منفصل ومن ث ّم نجتمع؛‬ ‫‪ 300,000‬متجر يف أبرز مناطق التس ّو” حول العامل‪.‬‬ ‫كل م ّنا بطريقة مختلفة متاماً‪ .‬أميل دوماً إىل تجربة عدّة‬ ‫يعمل ّ‬ ‫فل َم ال تنض ّم إىل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬ ‫أمور وتغيريها باستمرار؛ ال أرىض أبدا ً بالنتيجة‪ ،‬األمر الذي يُغضب‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫دفع الرضيبة من خالل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫‪ .Vivienne‬أ ّما هي‪ ،‬فتقارب فكرة معيّنة وتتّخذ قرارا ً وتبني عىل‬ ‫عليك إال أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫أساسه؛ إنّها دقيقة ومنطقيّة‪ .‬أحاول أن أطلق عدّة أفكار وأسبّب‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫الفوضة قبل أن أق ّرر‪”.‬‬ ‫لخريف‪/‬شتاء ‪ ،2017/2018‬استوحت ‪Andreas‬‬ ‫‪ Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood‬من مسقط رأس ‪ .1‬تس ّو”‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫“يتبني يف النهاية أنّني أينام تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عىل طلب اسرتداد الرضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫املص ّمم‪ .‬يقول ‪ Kronthaler‬عن املجموعة‪ّ :‬‬ ‫أرى نفيس كمص ّمم منساوي‪ .‬متحورت الفكرة حول االعرتاف بجنسيّتي بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصاالت‪.‬‬ ‫وصقل هويّتي‪ .‬املناظر والناس واألزياء هناك‪ ،‬هي جذوري‪ .‬استغرقت‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫بعض الوقت ألفهم أهميّة البلد الذي آيت منه‪ُ ”.‬ص ّممت املجموعة‬ ‫يف طريق العودة إىل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجامرك عند نقطة‬ ‫كإشارة واضحة إىل ‪ -Wiener Werkstätte‬وهي مجموعة‬ ‫املغادرة لتتم املصادقة عىل إيصاالتك قبل قبض االسرتداد من أحد‬ ‫من الف ّنانني يف فيينا يف بداية التسعينات‪ -‬وتشمل عنارص منساويّة‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫واضحة كأزهار جبال األلب وتصاميم مستوحاة من الثوب النمساوي مكاتب االسرتداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التقليدي‪ .‬كام أدّت مصادر إلهام ‪ Kronthaler‬النمساويّة‪ ،‬ومنها‬ ‫الرسام ‪ ،Gustav Klimt‬إىل استخدام بقع الطالء الكبرية والنقوش لالت ّصال‪:‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫الجريئة وفيض من األلوان‪ ،‬فرتجمت مجتمعة أسلوب ‪Vivienne‬‬ ‫‪111 111 232 +421‬‬ ‫‪ Westwood‬املفعم بالحياة‪.‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدىن قدره ‪ £30‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14%‬من مثن مشرتياتك‪.‬‬ ‫أ ّما ملجموعة ‪ Vivienne Westwood‬األساسيّة هذا‬ ‫يشمل مبلغ االسرتداد النهايئ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الرضيبة‬ ‫منصة العرض‬ ‫املوسم‪ ،‬فلجأت املص ّممة مجدّدا ً إىل استخدام ّ‬ ‫عىل القيمة املضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬يف بعض املطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض‬ ‫قصة محاربني بيئيّني يقاتلون‬ ‫والتصاميم التي تعرضها كمن ٍرب لرتوي ّ‬ ‫رسم خدمة نقدي عىل كل طلب اسرتداد رضيبة يف حال رغبت‬ ‫تغري املناخ‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بالحصول عىل اسرتداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬ ‫تجدر اإلشارة إىل أ ّن ‪ Westwood‬ناشطة معروفة وتلتزم‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫دامئاً علينا وتشكّل مصدر إلهام لنا‪ .‬ليس من باب الصدفة أن نكون قد‬ ‫اخرتنا تقاطع شارع ‪ Savile Row‬مع شارع ‪Conduit Street‬‬ ‫مقرا ً لنا‪ .‬فعىل م ّر السنني‪ ،‬كان شارع ‪ Savile Row‬أحد الوجهات‬ ‫األه ّم التي يقصدها الرجال املهت ّمون باألزياء ما جعل هذا املكان عنواناً‬ ‫متأصلة يف تصاميمنا أيضاً‪”.‬‬ ‫للجودة العالية والتقاليد واإلبداع‪ ،‬وهي ِقيَم ّ‬ ‫املحل املجموعة الكاملة للعالمة التجاريّة مبا فيها تصنيع املالبس‬ ‫يحوي ّ‬ ‫املعارصة باستخدام أنواع جديدة من الصوف والقطن القابل للتمدّد‬ ‫واملالبسالنسائيّة‪.‬‬ ‫وبالرغم من التط ّورات الجديدة واملثرية التي ُس ّجلت يف العقود‬ ‫القليلة املاضية‪ ،‬يبقى شارع ‪ Savile Row‬عنواناً لف ّن تفصيل البدالت‬ ‫حسب املقاس‪ .‬ترشح ‪ ،Tess Harriott‬مديرة تطوير األعامل يف‬ ‫املحل تأثريا ً يتخطّى حواجز العمر‬ ‫متجر‪ Savile Row 40‬أ ّن لهذا ّ‬ ‫واملهنة وغريها‪ .‬وتقول‪“ :‬يرتاوح زبائن ‪ Savile Row 40‬بني شباب‬ ‫مراهقني يحبّون األزياء وطالب متخ ّرجني يختارون البدلة املناسبة‬ ‫ملقابلتهم األوىل وموظّفني يعملون يف قطاعات املصارف والقانون‬ ‫والتأمني وما إىل ذلك‪ .‬هذا باإلضافة إىل الزبائن الذين لطاملا حلموا‬ ‫خاصة ملكافأة‬ ‫بامتالك بدلة من ‪ Savile Row‬فينتظرون مناسبة ّ‬ ‫أنفسهم‪”.‬‬ ‫خري مثال عن الخدمة املمتازة املتوفّرة يف هذا الشارع‪ ،‬رشكات‬ ‫تصنيع املالبس التي تديرها عائالت‪ .‬تقول ‪ Harriott‬متحدّث ًة عن‬ ‫املتجر‪“ :‬الجميع مر ّح ٌب به هنا ومنلك جميعاً ما يزيد عن ‪ 15‬سنة‬ ‫من الخربة يف هذا املجال‪ ،‬ما ميكّننا من توفري مالبس لكافة املقاسات‬ ‫واألذوا” ومساعدة الزبائن عىل اختيار األنسب لهم‪ .‬نطمح جميعاً‬ ‫أي بدلة من املتجر ّإال إذا‬ ‫إىل الكامل يف عملنا لذا ال نسمح بخرو“ ّ‬ ‫القصة‪ .‬أ ّما العنارص‬ ‫كانت تتوافق مع أفضل املعايري‬ ‫وبخاصة من حيث ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الخاصة بالبدلة‪ ،‬فيص ّممها الزبون بالكامل وهذا ما يجعلها‬ ‫الجامليّة ّ‬ ‫فريدة من نوعها‪”.‬‬ ‫بالتايل‪ ،‬ال عجب يف أن يبقى ‪ Savile Row‬املكان األشهر يف‬ ‫العامل ملا يتميّز به من قدرة عىل الجمع بني الفخامة الخالدة للمالبس‬ ‫كل أسلوب وتو ّجه يف عامل‬ ‫املفصلة حسب املقاس وإمكانيّة محاكاة ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫األزياء‪.‬‬ ‫‪To The Power Of Two :52‬‬

‫يف االتّحاد ق ّوة‬

‫من تصميم أزياء البانك روك إىل النشاط السيايس‪ ،‬تشكّل‬ ‫‪ Vivienne Westwood‬رمزا ً من رموز الثقافة الربيطانيّة منذ‬ ‫أربعني سنة‪ .‬ومع دخول زوجها ورشيكها يف التصميم ‪Andreas‬‬ ‫‪ Kronthaler‬عامل األضواء‪ ،‬تكتشف ‪ Hannah Lewis‬املزيد‬ ‫عن أكرث زوجني مثريين لالهتامم يف مجال األزياء‬ ‫يف عامل املوضة املتقلّب‪ ،‬حيث تشكّل األسامء الكربى اليوم أسامء‬ ‫من املايض غدا ً‪ ،‬تُعترب ‪ Vivienne Westwood‬عملة نادرة‪ .‬ملع‬ ‫إسمها يف ساحة األزياء سنة ‪ 1971‬وحدّدت موضة حقبة البانك مع‬ ‫رشيكها آنذاك ‪ ،Malcolm McLaren‬وما زالت منذ ما يزيد‬ ‫عىل أربعة عقود يف طليعة مجايل األزياء والثقافة‪ .‬عالمتها التجاريّة‬ ‫التي تحمل إسمها هي من أكرب عالمات األزياء يف العامل وتُعترب‬ ‫املص ّممة بح ّد ذاتها من أكرث املبتكرين والناشطني نفوذا ً يف العامل اليوم‪.‬‬ ‫سنة ‪ ،1988‬بدأت ‪ Westwood‬التدريس يف كليّة الفنون‬ ‫التطبيقيّة يف فيينا‪ .‬وهناك التقت ‪Andreas Kronthaler‬‬

‫‪94‬‬

‫ردّة فعل الزبائن عىل تصاميمها القامئة‪ .‬توضّ ح ‪“ :Getty‬بعد‬ ‫أن أطلق مجموعتي‪ ،‬يُطلب م ّني عاد ًة تصميم قطع تشبه القطع‬ ‫األساسيّة من حيث التصميم‪ ،‬لكن بأحجار مختلفة أو بأحجار‬ ‫الخاصة‪ ”.‬عندما يتعلّق األمر بتصميم قطعة فريدة من‬ ‫الزبائن‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يل‬ ‫نوعها‪ ،‬تقول‪“ :‬يتطلّب التصميم دقة مالحظة ووقتا‪ ،‬إذ يجب ع ّ‬ ‫أن أصغي إىل ما يحاول الزبون قوله وأفهم ما يرغب بالتحديد‪.‬‬ ‫أتواصل مع الزبون مرات متعدّدة خالل عميل عىل التصميم‪ ،‬إال‬ ‫أنّني غالباً ما أحصل يف لقائنا األ ّول عىل تص ّور شامل للتصميم‬ ‫الذي يرغبه‪”.‬‬ ‫أخريا ً‪ ،‬إ ّن رؤية الزبائن يحصلون يف النهاية عىل قطع‬ ‫املجوهرات التي يرغبونها هو ما يُفرح ‪ Getty‬كثريا ً‪ .‬وتقول‬ ‫تأكيدا ً عىل ذلك‪“ :‬إ ّن أكرث ما يُرضيني عىل ا”طالق هو أن يشعر‬ ‫الزبون بأنّه ميلك قطعة مميّزة‪ ،‬قطعة من املجوهرات مص ّممة له‬ ‫بالتحديد وتحايك شخصيّته‪”.‬‬ ‫‪A Cut Above :48‬‬

‫مستوى مختلف متاماً‬

‫بالرغم من تاريخ شارع ‪ Savile Row‬العريق يف مجال صناعة‬ ‫املالبس‪ ،‬يتطلّع سكّانه بحزم نحو املستقبل‪ ،‬عىل ح ّد قول ‪Maria‬‬ ‫‪Kirchen-Hill‬‬

‫‪PHOTO: DSQUARED2‬‬

‫يُع ّد شارع ‪ Savile Row‬يف لندن‪ ،‬الذي غالباً ما يُنسب إليه لقب‬ ‫الذهبي لصناعة املالبس”‪ ،‬أحد أِشهر الوجهات يف العامل من‬ ‫“املِيل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫املفصلة حسب الطلب‪ ،‬وذلك ألسباب وجيهة‪.‬‬ ‫حيث املالبس الرجاليّة ّ‬ ‫ومبا أنّه يض ّم عددا ً من أمهر الخيّاطني يف هذا املجال‪ ،‬استحال اسمه‬ ‫مرادفاً ألجود املالبس‪ .‬فإن كنتم تبحثون عن مالبس رجاليّة أم نسائيّة‪،‬‬ ‫كالسيكيّة أم معارصة‪ ،‬ليس يف لندن مكان أفضل منه لرشاء مالبس‬ ‫مفصلة حسب املقاس‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يف مطلع القرن التاسع عرش‪ ،‬اتخذ أ ّول الخيّاطني من شارع‬ ‫‪ Savile Row‬مق ّرا ً لهم بعد أن جذبتهم إىل هذا املكان الطبقة‬ ‫الراقية يف ‪ ،Mayfair‬التي ما زالت إحدى أرقى املناطق يف املدينة‪.‬‬ ‫أي من الرشكات األصليّة‪ ،‬لكن تحظى الكثري من‬ ‫مل َ‬ ‫تبق يف هذا الشارع ّ‬ ‫املؤسسات القامئة اليوم بتاريخ طويل يف هذا الشارع‪ ،‬عىل سبيل “كة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Henry Poole & Co‬املوجودة هنا منذ سنة ‪ 1846‬والتي تقع‬ ‫اليوم يف ‪.Savile Row 15‬‬ ‫مؤسس هذه الرشكة التي تحمل إسمه‬ ‫تجدر ا”شارة إىل أ ّن ّ‬ ‫أدار األعامل فيها من سنة ‪ 1846‬حتّى سنة ‪ 1876‬وقام يف خالل‬ ‫يل ‪Napoleon‬‬ ‫هذه الفرتة بتأمني مالبس امرباطور فرنسا املستقب ّ‬ ‫‪ ،III‬وكان موظّفاً لدى امللكة ‪ Victoria‬والخيّاط الذي اختاره أمري‬ ‫‪ Wales‬الذي أصبح امللك ‪ Edward VII‬الحقاً‪ .‬ويف نهاية العقود‬ ‫الثالثة التي ترأس فيها الرشكة‪ ،‬كان ‪Poole‬قد لعب دورا ً جوهريّاً يف‬ ‫تحويل ‪ Savile Row‬إىل مال ٍذ لتفصيل املالبس حسب الطلب فأصبح‬ ‫نجامً من نجوم هذا الشارع الساطعة‪ .‬ويف أوائل التسعينيّات‪ ،‬أصبحت‬ ‫املؤسسة األكرب من نوعها يف العامل حيث عمل فيها ‪ 300‬خيّاط‬ ‫هذه ّ‬ ‫متخصصاً بتفصيل املالبس‪.‬‬ ‫و‪ 14‬موظّفاً ّ‬ ‫وحتّى يومنا هذا‪ ،‬يسافر أرقى الرجال من مختلف أنحاء العامل إىل‬ ‫مفصلة حسب املقاس من ‪ .Poole‬يُنسب إىل‬ ‫لندن للحصول عىل بدلة ّ‬ ‫هذه الرشكة تصميم سرتات السهرة (املعروفة أيضاً بسرتات التوكسيدو)‪،‬‬ ‫ما يجعل منها بطبيعة الحال خيارا ً رائجاً‪ .‬لكن يوفّر فريق العمل كل‬

‫يشء‪ ،‬من فساتني النهار وفساتني السهرة إىل السرتات غري الرسميّة‬ ‫املفصلة‬ ‫والسرتات الرياضيّة والقمصان واملعاطف وبالطبع البدالت ّ‬ ‫جميعها حسب املقاس‪ ،‬با”ضافة إىل تشكيلة واسعة من األكسسوارات‬ ‫الجميلة‪ .‬وبذلك‪ ،‬يستطيع الزبائن االختيار من بني أكرث من ‪6,000‬‬ ‫كل قطعة‬ ‫منوذج من أجود أنواع األقمشة ويعمل الفريق عىل تفصيل ّ‬ ‫وفقاًملقاساتكم بالتحديد‪.‬‬ ‫يف هذا السياق‪ ،‬شهد شارع ‪ Savile Row‬تط ّورا ً تدريجيّاً‬ ‫عىل م ّر السنني متاما كحال “كة ‪ ،Henry Poole & Co‬وهو‬ ‫مق ٌّر لعدد من أشهر عالمات األزياء‪ .‬ت ّم إطالق املالبس الجاهزة للم ّرة‬ ‫األوىل يف سبعينيّات القرن العرشين عرب عالمات مثل & ‪Gieves‬‬ ‫‪ Hawkes‬و‪ّ ،Hardy Amies‬إال أ ّن وصول األسامء العامليّة إليه‪،‬‬ ‫الفرنيس ‪ Lanvin‬متجرا ً رئيساً‬ ‫تط ّور حديث نسبيّاً‪ .‬ميلك دار األزياء‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للمالبس الرجاليّة يف لندن يف هذا الشارع بالتحديد ويقدّم مجموعة‬ ‫من املالبس الرجاليّة الجاهزة وربطات العنق الفراشيّة الفاخرة‪ ،‬با”ضافة‬ ‫إىل تشكيلة واسعة من األكسسوارات والسلع الجلديّة وحتّى خدمة‬ ‫تفصيل مالبس حسب املقاس‪ .‬فبالنسبة إىل دار ‪ ،Lanvin‬كان من‬ ‫البديهي اختيار شارع ‪ Savile Row‬كموقع‪ .‬قال ‪،Alber Elbaz‬‬ ‫مص ّمم دار ‪ Lanvin‬عند افتتاحه‪“ :‬إنّه رائع‪ .‬بنظري‪ ،‬مل يكن يف لندن‬ ‫مكان أفضل منه‪”.‬‬ ‫ويف ا”طار نفسه‪ ،‬كانت مشاعر األخوين التوأمني ‪Dean and‬‬ ‫‪ ،Dan Caten‬املدي َريْن االبتكاريّني لعالمة األزياء ‪،Dsquared2‬‬ ‫الرئييس‬ ‫الخاص‪ .‬يقول االثنان‪“ :‬متجرنا‬ ‫مشابهة عندما افتتحا متجرهام ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫يف لندن مميّ ٌز جدا ً بالنسبة لنا ألنّنا نعيش يف هذه املدينة التي ترتك أثرا ً‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪95‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪One Of A Kind :42‬‬

‫تصاميم فريد ٌة من نوعها‬ ‫ٌ‬

‫أبواب مغلقة‬ ‫يعمل صاغة املجوهرات األشهر يف لندن خلف ٍ‬ ‫لتصميم قطع جميلة حسب طلبات زبائنهم‪ .‬يطلعنا ‪Ruairidh‬‬ ‫‪ Pritchard‬باملزيد عن ذلك‪.‬‬ ‫تُ َع ّد مدينة لندن إىل ح ّد كبري إحدى أفضل األماكن حول العامل‬

‫بحي األملاس الشهري يف منطقة ‪Hatton‬‬ ‫لرشاء املجوهرات‪ .‬فبدءا ً ّ‬ ‫رباقة يف شارع ‪Old‬‬ ‫‪ Garden‬وصوالً إىل واجهات املحال ال ّ‬ ‫‪ ،Bond‬يغرق محبّو املجوهرات يف بحر من الخيارات‪ .‬وبعيدا ً‬

‫تعج باملتس ّوقني وعن وهج نوافذ العرض املزيّنة‬ ‫عن الشوارع التي ّ‬ ‫بقطعٍ من املاس‪ ،‬يقدّم صاغة الذهب األشهر يف لندن خدمات‬ ‫بحسب طلبات الزبائن‪ ،‬تنتقل بقطاع املجوهرات يف هذه املدينة‬ ‫إىل مستويات من الرتف ال مثيل لها‪.‬‬ ‫‪ Jessica McCormack‬املولودة يف نيوزيلندا هي إحدى‬ ‫أشهر صاغة املجوهرات يف منطقة ‪ .Mayfair‬ت ُعرف ‪Jessica‬‬ ‫بابتكاراتها املنسوجة من خيالها الواسع مثل قطعها املص ّممة‬ ‫حسب الطلب واملعروفة باسم ‪ ،Party Jackets‬وهي خواتم‬ ‫مص ّممة لتحتضن خامتاً آخر فتح ّوله وتُغنيه جامالً‪ .‬يف منزلها الرائع‬ ‫امليلء بالقطع الفنيّة يف منطقة ‪ Carlos Place‬السكنيّة الذي‬ ‫بكل بساطة‪ ،‬يقع مشغل‬ ‫تطلق عليه وفريق عملها اسم “املنزل” ّ‬ ‫يل‪ .‬أ ّما الصالون‪ ،‬فيقع يف‬ ‫صاغة الذهب املحرتفني يف الطابق السف ّ‬ ‫األريض واأل ّول ويعرض مجموعاتها املوسميّة املذهلة مبا‬ ‫الطابقني‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫فيها مجموعة ‪ Chi Chi‬املستوحاة من الطريقة الصينيّة القدمية‬ ‫لقراءة البخت ومجموعة ‪Trip The Light Fantastic‬‬ ‫املذهلة من األقراط واألساور والقالدات والخواتم املاسيّة التي‬ ‫تتح ّرك مع مرتديها لتعكس بريقاً يسحر األلباب‪.‬‬ ‫با”ضافة إىل ما سبق‪ ،‬تقدّم ‪ McCormack‬لزبائنها خدمة‬ ‫شاملة من التصميم حسب الطلب من خالل العمل مبا“ ًة مع‬ ‫الزبائن الذين يسعون إىل تصميم قطعة فريدة من نوعها‪ .‬تقول‬ ‫‪ McCormack‬يف “حها ذلك‪“ :‬عندما أعمل عىل تصميم قطعة‬ ‫حسب الطلب‪ ،‬أرغب يف تخصيص الوقت الكايف للتع ّرف إىل زبائني‬ ‫الشخيص فأجلس معهم يف مكتبتنا ملناقشة ما يحبّون‬ ‫عىل املستوى‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أخصص وقتاً‬ ‫وما ال يحبّون وأستنبط أسلوبهم‬ ‫الخاص‪ .‬وبعد ذلك‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لرتجمة قصصهم الشخصيّة إىل الكثري من الرسومات اليدويّة ث ّم‬ ‫أعمل عىل إنجاز التصميم النها ّيئ املثا ّيل‪”.‬‬ ‫وبذلك‪ ،‬ال تكون عمليّة صياغة املجوهرات مص ّممة وفقاً‬ ‫كل فرد فحسب بل املجوهرات بح ّد ذاتها أيضاً‪ .‬تقول‬ ‫لذوق ّ‬ ‫‪“ :McCormack‬تختلف درجة االتصال بالزبائن من فرد إىل‬ ‫كل مرحلة‬ ‫لدي زبائن يرغبون بالبقاء عىل اطّالع يف ّ‬ ‫فرد‪ .‬كان ّ‬ ‫من مراحل التصميم‪ ،‬يف حني كان يفضّ ل آخرون انتظار القطعة‬ ‫لكل زبون‪”.‬‬ ‫بتصميمها النها ّيئ‪ .‬إنّها لرحلة شخصيّة ج ّدا ً ّ‬ ‫الرشقي األكرث‬ ‫أ ّما يف الجهة األخرى من لندن يف الجانب‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫عرصيّة من املدينة‪ ،‬تعمل صائغة املجوهرات ‪Ana de‬‬ ‫‪ Costa‬عىل قطع مص ّممة حسب الطلب ملجموعة متن ّوعة‬ ‫من الزبائن املتميّزين‪ .‬بعد أن تخ ّرجت ‪ de Costa‬يف جامعة‬ ‫‪ Central Saint Martins‬سنة ‪ ،2005‬عملت لدى ‪Shaun‬‬

‫ملنصة عرض أزياء‬ ‫مخصصة ّ‬ ‫‪ Leane‬املشهور بتصميم قطع ّ‬ ‫‪ Alexander McQueen‬ولدى مص ّمم املجوهرات حسب‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫الطلب ‪ Erickson Beamon‬قبل أن تفتتح مشغلها‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫مبوعد‪ .‬وتضيف ‪“ :de Costa‬إ ّن‬ ‫الذي ال تستقبل فيه الزبائن إال‬ ‫املجوهرات القيّمة واملص ّممة حسب الطلب هي من املشرتيات‬ ‫العاطفيّة والشخصيّة ج ّدا ً‪ ،‬لذا أرغب يف منح الوقت الكايف لجميع‬ ‫الخاصني‪”.‬‬ ‫زبائني‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وتضيف قائلةً‪“ :‬نناقش يف البداية األفكار األ ّوليّة وامليزانيّات‬ ‫املعنيّة‪ ،‬إذ أنّها تشكّل أسس بحثي األ ّو ّيل عن األحجار واملفاهيم”‪.‬‬ ‫وما مييّز ‪ de Costa‬عن غريها هو بحوثها املتع ّمقة وفهمها‬ ‫الرسيع لرغبات زبائنها‪ .‬نذكر هنا عىل سبيل املثال إحدى قطعها‬ ‫األخرية املص ّممة حسب الطلب وهي خاتم خطوبة ألحد الزبائن‬ ‫املقيمني يف لندن‪ .‬متيّز تصميم هذا الخاتم باحتوائه عىل أحجار‬ ‫كرمية جلبتها ‪ de Costa‬بنفسها من مسقط رأس العروس‬ ‫املستقبليّة يف روسيا‪ .‬وكام هو الحال مع ‪ ،McCormack‬تسري‬ ‫العمليّة بأكملها من البداية حتّى النهاية بحسب رغبات الزبون‪.‬‬ ‫تقول ‪“ :de Costa‬أحرص منذ بدء عمليّة الصياغة عىل إجراء‬ ‫محادثات منتظمة مع الزبائن ”بقائهم عىل اطّالع بالتقدّم‪ ،‬ونزوالً‬ ‫عند رغبتهم‪ ،‬أرسل يف بعض األحيان صورا ً تظهر التقدّم امل ُح َرز‪ .‬إال‬ ‫تبني يل أ ّن الكثري من زبائني يفضّ لون عنرص املفاجأة لدى رؤية‬ ‫أنّه ّ‬ ‫القطعة النهائيّة‪”.‬‬ ‫‪ Sabine Getty‬هي أيضاً واحدة من صاغة املجوهرات‬ ‫األشهر يف لندن‪ .‬تأيت مجموعتها األخرية ‪Baby Memphis‬‬ ‫استكامالً ملجموعة ‪ Memphis‬الفخمة‪ ،‬إال أ ّن ما مييّزها هو أنّها‬ ‫تحمل بصامت تجربتها األوىل يف عامل األمومة‪ .‬تض ّم هذه املجموعة‬ ‫ترصع الخواتم واألساور‬ ‫تشكيلة واسعة من األحجار املل ّونة التي ّ‬ ‫املتعدّدة واألقراط والقالدات التي يسهل تنسيقها مع بعضها‬ ‫البعض فتمنح جميعها إمكانات غري محدودة ملظاهر متعدّدة‪.‬‬ ‫أيضاً وأيضاً‪ ،‬توفّر ‪ Getty‬خدمة حسب الطلب لبعض‬ ‫محبّي املجوهرات املميّزين يف املدينة وهي خدمة تحفّزها عاد ًة‬

SOUVEN I R

NATURALLY BRILLIANT French-born jeweller Laurence Costeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Chelsea boutique is something of a hidden gem in the capital. Despite the eponymous brand celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, the store remains relatively under the radar, serving the discerning tastes and needs of the incredibly stylish women who live nearby. Coste, who

moved to London in the 1980s, discovered her talent for jewellery at a young age when she began designing pieces for her friends to wear to parties in Paris. She now handcrafts luxurious costume jewellery in her London workshop. The collection ranges from affordable everyday classics to jaw-dropping statement pieces. Inspired by the foliage of the ginkgo biloba tree, the

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 82

Ginkgo necklace is a brilliant addition to a formal evening look; the leaves cascade playfully downwards while the glistening gold makes greenery utterly glamorous. lt Laurence Coste Ginkgo necklace, ÂŁ1,115, Laurence Coste, 109 Walton Street, London SW3 2HP, +44 (0)20 7584 8860, laurence-coste.com

VW AW17/18 www.viviennewestwood.com Flagship Store - 44 Conduit Street W1S 2YL; 18 Conduit Street W1S 2XN