LONDON | ЛОНДОН | 伦敦 | لندن
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Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2015
COMING TO THE FORE: the directional British designers who are pushing the boundaries of menswear
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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen
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Welcome to London Maybe you’re already familiar with London, or perhaps it’s the frst time you’ve visited this dynamic, cosmopolitan city. Either way, SHOP magazine is sure to ofer something to surprise you. In this issue, Victoria Beckham shows us round her new Mayfair fagship (page 44). We reveal London’s directional new menswear scene (page 48) and profle Manolo Blahnik, the creator of some of the world’s most alluring shoes (page 54), while jeweller Lara Bohinc shares her plans to branch out (page 60). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 11% when shopping in Britain. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in London. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free Global Blue Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
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CONTRIBUTORS
Frances Wasem Frances Wasem is a contributing editor at Harper’s Bazaar, and has also written for Stella magazine and the Times. She has interviewed icons from Christian Louboutin to Lauren Bacall and Ali MacGraw. globalblue.com
Beth Druce Fashion and luxury writer Beth Druce also works as a consultant for luxury fashion companies. She holds an MA from Central Saint Martins in London. Beth delights in documenting diverse and quickly evolving trends.
Thomas Danthony Thomas Danthony is a French-born designer and illustrator based in London. His cover for this season’s luxury edition of SHOP London was inspired by our feature exploring the exciting new looks being created by young British menswear designers – see page 48. The clever composition shows a Union Jack-shaped catwalk with an example of the new style stepping forward, as older looks walk of to the side. Danthony has previously created work for Microsoft, Nokia and M&C Saatchi, among others. Find out more about our illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
Milkha Lala Milkha Lala, one of SHOP’s artworking assistants, has studied fne art, photography and flm. An avid follower of digital arts and cinema, his interests include Beat Generation authors, vintage guitars and Italian food.
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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Managing editor Sally McIlhone
Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh
Cover illustrator Thomas Danthony
Online production assistant Marina Nelson
Contributors Beth Druce, Maria Kirchen-Hill, Katie Ramsingh, Frances Wasem Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Verity Hogan City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis
Online assistant Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liu Chinese translators Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova
Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold
Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov
Fashion and news intern Rebecca Fearn
Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb
Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey
Print Dane Consultancy
Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews
Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline
GLOBA L BLU E U K Vice president sales Northern Europe Richard Brown UK & Ireland country manager Gordon Clark UK sales manager Peter Blake UK marketing sales manager Tammy Fraser Marketing account manager Kimberly Urbaniak Marketing sales executive Abbie Elphick International key account managers Barbara Badelt, Richard Harvey Key account managers Sarah Farag, Jerry Junkere, Ashish Obrahi, Sunni Sokhi Account managers Saish Balakashnan, Daroon Hamdi, Nikhita Hyett, Victoria Trimble Global Blue UK, 11th f loor, GW2, Great West House, Great West Road, Brentford TW8 9HU, UK +44 (0)20 8232 1900 Regional tourist office Visit Britain London and Partners Advertising enquiries Contact Kimberly Urbaniak: kurbaniak@globalblue.com
AVP business development manager Patrice Janet
Creative editor/deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird
Head of digital Eamonn Leacy
Chief Executive Officer David Baxby
Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Sarah Walker
Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia
Chief Traveller Officer Craig Le Grice
Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, George Trinick Artworking intern Samantha Junak
Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital marketing intern Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Digital intern Sammy Ha Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini
SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue
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CONTENTS
PHOTO: MICHAEL ROBERTS
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P ROD U C T S 20 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from London this season 22 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 28 Street Style Our pick of the city’s best dressed during London Fashion Week N EWS 32 Shop Window One store not to be missed in London 34 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products 44 In Store … … with Victoria Beckham in her new Mayfair boutique Above: sketch designs by master shoemaker Manolo Blahnik
F E AT U R E S 48 Cover Story: Here Come The Boys The stars of London Collections: Men are among those leading the way into a new era for British menswear design, reports Katie Ramsingh 54 In Focus: Manolo Blahnik Manolo Blahnik creates some of the world’s most alluring shoes, ofering luxury, glamour and timeless appeal every season, writes Beth Druce 60 Building An Empire Jewellery designer Lara Bohinc looks set to conquer the world of interiors as she branches out into homeware. She tells Frances Wasem about her plans
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CONTENTS E X PE R I E NCE 66 Table Talk Fine dining in London isn’t just for carnivores, says Isabella Redmond Styles 70 Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels GU I DE 74 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of London 88 My Neighbourhood Anna Haugh, head chef at London House restaurant, takes SHOP on a tour of London’s Battersea district
ESSENTI A LS 92 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S 94 Русский Перевод 99 美文翻译 105 POSTCA R D 106 SHOP writes home about Aquascutum
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ONLINE
The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com
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FASHION
COMPETITIONS
Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-theminute shopping tips and insider information.
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CHECK OUT
SPELL IT OUT The novelty clutch bag is having a fashion moment right now, and it’s no surprise that hot-ticket London-based designer Mary Katrantzou has created some of the most covetable creations out there. Following on from her previous letter-themed collection, which spelled out ‘Mary’, this season she’s tempting us to buy not just one bag but fve with her new, party-ready Dance collection. Made from mixed materials including mirrored metal, leather and glitter, these multiSave up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 92
coloured creations are the epitome of fun with fashion, perfect for a party or to add a touch of irreverent glamour to a daytime look. We predict that these clutches will be a collector’s item this season, so we can’t think of a reason not to buy the whole set – which is lucky, as we’re already torn between the fve of them. hl Mary Katrantzou Dance clutches, from £1,600, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), selfridges.com * for map go to page 78
ANYAHINDMARCH.COM
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ON-TREND TRAINERS With kicks this fresh, you’ll want to wear them outside the gym
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1. Burberry Prorsum sneakers, £395, Burberry, 121 Regent Street, London W1B 4TB, +44 (0)20 7806 8904, burberry.com
3. Bally sneakers, £395, Bally, 45-46 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EN, +44 (0)20 7499 0057, bally.com
2. Chanel sneakers, £475, Chanel, 26 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4QD, +44 (0)20 7493 5040, chanel.com
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4. Valentino Garavani sneakers, £580, Valentino, 174 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QG, +44 (0)20 7235 5855, valentino.com
PHOTOS: (2) © CHANEL/© EUGÉNIE BASCHET ; (4) VALENTINO GARAVANI
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porsche design ß9983 Smartphone
BEYOND LUXURY. THE NEW P´9983 GRAPHITE.
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ARMY SURPLUS
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Redefne modern style for men with versatile black leather accented with khaki and gold
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1. Acne leather jacket, £1,350, Acne, 13 Dover Street, London W1S 4LN, +44 (0)20 7629 9374, acnestudios.com 2. Montblanc pen, £350, Montblanc, 151 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9BX, +44 (0)20 7730 7681, montblanc.com
3. Acqua di Parma fragrance, 100ml, £150, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, acquadiparma.com
Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 92
4. Alexander McQueen New City De Manta bag, £995, Alexander McQueen, 9 Savile Row, London W1S 3PF, +44 (0)20 7494 8840, alexandermcqueen.com
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PHOTOS: (4) BERNHARD DECKERT; (5) JONATHAN BEER PHOTOGRAPHY; (6) © CESARE GUALDONI
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5. Hasselblad Lunar compact system camera, £5,300, Peter Jones, Sloane Square, London SW1W 8EL, +44 (0)20 7730 3434, hasselblad-stellar.com 6. Salvatore Ferragamo watch, £770, Salvatore Ferragamo, 24 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4AL, +44 (0)20 7629 5007, ferragamo.com
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7. Final Pandora Hope X headphones, £2,999, Richer Sounds, 44 Artillery Lane, London E1 7LS, 0333 900 0045, fnalaudio.nl
8. Knomad Mini Power portable organiser, £119, Knomo, 83 Great Portland Street, London W1W 7LS, +44 (0)20 7462 0750, knomo.com
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REFINED ELEGANCE
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Balance out the brightness of this bodysuit and heels with classic cream accessories
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1. Gucci shoes, £700, Gucci, 18 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9NE, +44 (0)20 7235 6707, gucci.com
3. Bulgari earrings, £3,220, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, +44 (0)20 7318 7790, bulgari.com
2. Cartier bag, £3,350, Cartier, 175-177 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RN, +44 (0)20 7408 5700, cartier.com
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4. Bimba y Lola bodysuit, £230, Bimba y Lola, 15 South Molton Street, London W1K 5QR, +44 (0)20 7499 2011, bimbaylola.com
PHOTOS: (1) COSIMO SERENI/GUCCI S.P.A.; (3) ANTONIO BARRELLA/STUDIO ORIZZONTE; (4) BIMBA Y LOLA
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At London Fashion Week, it was all about layering and texture. The fashion-forward crowd wowed with Peter Pilotto prints, feathered skirts and furry clutches, topping of the look with bold sunglasses to achieve an indisputable cool factor
Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 92
PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
STREET STYLE
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There’s something about London that brings out every man’s inner dandy. Whether you team a foral shirt with a waistcoat and pocket watch or clash fuorescent trousers with classic monochrome, express your own personal style
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PHOTOS: EMANUELE D’ANGELO/LC-JOURNAL.COM
STREET STYLE
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PHOTO: CHRISTUBBS PHOTOGRAPHY
SHOP WINDOW
BRILLIANT BALLY Known for its expert skill with fne leather, Bally was founded in 1851 and has grown from a small shoemaking frm to an internationally renowned and sought-after fashion and lifestyle brand. The label has recently opened a fagship store on London’s prestigious New Bond Street – the frst new fagship Bally has opened in decades and one that truly represents the heritage, ethos and vision of the brand. Spanning three foors and 4,320 square feet, the space has been designed exclusively by David Chipperfeld Architects. The basement Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 92
is home to menswear, the ground foor is devoted to womenswear, and the frst foor to the impressive Made to Order, Made to Colour and Shoe Caring services, all of which deserve a visit. The interior design was inspired by an archive image from the 1920s of a Bally store in Switzerland created by modernist architect and furniture designer Marcel Breuer. A beautiful boutique that captures the spirit of the house, this is the perfect place to explore the latest from Bally. hl Bally, 45-46 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EN, +44 (0)20 7491 7062, bally.com * for map go to page 79
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WATCH OUT FOR IWC Luxury Swiss watch manufacturer IWC Schafhausen has opened its frst boutique in the United Kingdom. The new store, in London’s premium shopping district on Bond Street, ofers the manufacturer’s most exceptional pieces from its current collections, including a special-edition Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar designed exclusively for the new boutique. The Portofno Midsize, IWC’s newly launched diamond collection, is also available in its entirety. The two-storey space’s art deco exterior makes it diferent from all other IWC stores. Other distinctive features include maintenance and servicing, bespoke VIP services and a lounge in the style of a member’s club. IWC’s London store is a place to not only browse the brand’s collections but also enjoy an entire IWC experience. rf IWC, 138 New Bond Street, London W1S 2TJ, +44 (0)20 3618 3900, iwc.com * for map go to page 79
PARIS COMES TO LONDON French fashion house Balmain opens its frst London fagship in the heart of Mayfair this spring. Designed by architect Joseph Dirand, the space will be furnished with pieces inspired by Dirand’s favourite mid-20th-century French furniture designers. This classic elegance ofers the perfect backdrop to set of the boldly modern designs of Balmain’s creative director Olivier Rousteing. mkh Balmain, 69 South Audley Street, London W1K 2QZ, +44 (0)20 7491 8585, balmain.com Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 92
In brief: — Brunello Cucinelli has opened its second-largest store in the world in London’s Burlington Gardens; the new boutique is not to be missed
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PHOTO: PHOTOPRESS/IWC
IN BLOOM
EASY RIDERS British heritage brand Belstaf, which celebrated its 90th anniversary last year, looked to 1960s English style this season for its menswear collection, taking inspiration from the rockers and café racers of the era. Motorcycle culture is at the heart of the brand’s aesthetic, and each season design director Frederik Dyhr reminds us why the biker look never goes out of style, producing collections year after year which remain fresh and modern. A particular highlight for spring/summer this year is the range of intricately detailed reproductions of customised leather jackets from the 1960s, which have been skilfully aged to marry the sought-after vintage efect with the superb quality of a brand new Belstaf jacket – making a real trophy piece. hl Belstaf, 135-137 New Bond Street, London W1S 2TQ, +44 (0)20 7495 5897, belstaf.co.uk * for map go to page 79 globalblue.com
Bloom Perfumery, just across the road from London’s famous Old Spitalfelds Market, is a specialist boutique dedicated to contemporary fragrances and the perfect place to discover a unique perfume. You’ll be guided by attentive staf with great passion and the necessary expertise to help you fnd that special scent. The fragrances in the highly curated collection have been chosen for the quality of their ingredients, craftsmanship, originality, vision and presentation. Bloom also stocks a selection of bath and body ranges, candles and reed difusers. New products for spring/summer 2015 include feminine scents from Italian perfumer Gabriella Chiefo, the radical NoOud collection by Netherlands-based Baruti, and artisanal eco-friendly soaps from the Parisian men’s grooming brand Le Baigneur. gl Bloom Perfumery, 4 Hanbury Street, London E1 6QR, +44 (0)20 7247 6148, bloomperfume.co.uk
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SEE HERE Eyewear Concierge, a leading specialist in handmade glasses and sunglasses from independent eyewear brands, has just opened its frst bricks-and-mortar store, in London’s wellknown Soho district. The company ofers a wide and stylish range of opticals, including small and large glasses and sunglasses, as well as a bespoke service to ensure each client leaves with the perfect ft. The service in the store is exceptional: each visitor is attended by an eyewear concierge who provides expert style advice and caters to every individual need. mkh Eyewear Concierge, 2 Denman Place, London W1D 7AH, +44 (0)20 8133 9835, eyewearconcierge.com * for map go to page 82
ON THE BEACH Launched by designer Nina Deckers just a few years ago, luxury swimwear and resortwear brand Lazul is already the go-to brand for fashionable women who want to relax in style on holiday. Capturing the spirit of 1970s glamour, which could not be more on trend this season, the collection is designed to take you seamlessly from beach and yacht in the day to dinner and dancing in the evening. Deckers focuses on modern design fnished Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 92
with luxurious detailing and hand-drawn prints. Each piece is produced from the highest quality materials and is 100% made in Europe. Whether you’re taken by playful aquatic motifs or glamorous leopard print, you can be certain that the craftsmanship and ft will be truly excellent. hl Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, +44 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), lazul-london.com * for map go to page 78
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FAUX FUR FUN Snuggle into a top-quality faux fur from London-based brand Shrimps. Plain black is not a favourite of founder and designer Hannah Weiland, so prepare for pops of colour in her funky jackets, scarves and clutch bags. Weiland, who started her brand in 2013, has already found many supporters in the fashion industry – and it’s easy to see why. She draws on wit and artistic fair to create beautifully manufactured outerwear that is as practical as it is humorous and innovative. fm Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, +44 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), shrimps.co.uk * for map go to page 78
THE ART OF MIYAKE Designed by Japanese artist Tokujin Yoshioka, the new Issey Miyake fagship store on Brook Street looks more like an art gallery than a shop, displaying as it does the conceptual work of Issey Miyake. The building, formerly a bank, has been stripped back to its original structure and rebuilt with all furniture, fttings and seating designed by Yoshioka himself. Stunning blue panels of anodised aluminium – each of which took over four Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 92
hours to complete – provide an eye-catching feature against the minimal bare walls. Every element of the shop has been designed to create a futuristic feel that is perfectly in tune with the clothes themselves. The store carries nine collections, including Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, which is available here for the frst time outside Japan. th Issey Miyake, 10 Brook Street, London W1S 1BG, +44 (0)20 7851 4620, isseymiyake.com * for map go to page 79
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Male visitors to London can rejoice in the news that E Tautz has recently opened a brand new fagship store in north Mayfair. The boutique ofers the full E Tautz range, along with a made-to-measure tailoring and shirt-making service. This innovative brand’s aesthetics focus on well-balanced and unfussy yet luxurious designs, which are refected in the new store’s design. The architects at Sanderson Studios have created a space that takes inspiration from the 1950s and 1960s; throughout the two foors, wood features prominently, as do clean lines and sophisticated decoration. The resulting open, warm and inviting space showcases the 2010 British Menswear Designer of the Year’s latest collection with class and style. rf
FASHION INSTITUTION Luxurious Knightsbridge boutique Feathers has just celebrated its 40th year in the prestigious neighbourhood. Founded in 1969 by the Burstein family, who are still at the helm today, the original boutique was located on Kensington High Street, where it became one of the must-visit destinations of the London shopping scene. Its success was such that it relocated to larger premises in 1974, and the store has remained one of the best-curated globalblue.com
PHOTO: © SANDERSON STUDIOS LTD 2014/DANIEL SANDERSON
PERFECT FIT
E Tautz, 71 Duke Street, London W1K 5NX, +44 (0)20 7629 8809, etautz.com
boutiques in the area ever since. A unique collection presented in a friendly store stafed by fashion experts, the range comprises top labels from across the world, and expands to ofer new names each season. For spring/ summer, look out for Italian label No.21 and its feminine take on tartan. hl Feathers, 42 Hans Crescent, London SW1X 0LZ, +44 (0)20 7589 5802, feathersfashion.com * for map go to page 83
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LIKE A BOSS The newly redesigned Boss store at Sloane Square is a masterclass in contemporary luxury. Refecting the brand’s clean and classic aesthetic, the interiors are a clever juxtaposition of modern and traditional elements – for example, the concept of the grand chandelier has been reinterpreted as a geometric light installation. The sophisticated mood continues with greytinted mirrors around the stairwell to add depth, and a contrast of matte and gloss elsewhere to delight the eye. The Made-to-Measure suite, which is unique to this fagship, ofers clients a personal setting in which to select from exclusive Italian fabrics and a wide array of premium linings. For those seeking a higher level of personalisation, this service also allows for a signature to be embroidered inside the jacket and waistband of the custom-made suit. th Boss, 35-38 Sloane Square, London SW1W 8DL, +44 (0)20 7259 1240, hugoboss.com * for map go to page 84
PHOTO: ALUN CALLENDER
CHARMING CANDLES
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Tucked away down a quaint little side street, not far from famous department store Harrods, Rachel Vosper’s Belgravia candle boutique ofers a peaceful retreat from London’s busy shopping streets. The store displays a selection of beautiful vessels, hand-flled by Vosper and her team with an array of fragrant waxes. The boutique ofers a unique refll service – or you can choose any suitable container and take it to be turned into a candle, safe in the knowledge that the perfect wick-to-wax ratio will be used to ensure an even, smoke-free burn. With new fragrances introduced frequently and the option of creating your own signature scent, a visit to this charming little shop is sure to leave you feeling refreshed and inspired. gl Rachel Vosper, 69 Kinnerton Street, London SW1X 8ED, +44 (0)20 7235 9666, rachelvosper.com
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SURF’S UP Luxe sportswear’s wave of popularity continues with the emergence of clothing for cold-water surfng, spearheaded by Cornwall-based brand Finisterre, which creates innovative products for cold-water surfers and recently opened its frst fagship store in Covent Garden’s Seven Dials. Described as a dedicated hub of cold-water surf culture, the lifestyle store stocks the full Finisterre range of merino base layers, technical insulation jackets, waterproofs, knitwear and denim along side surfboards from Al Merrick, Gulfstream and Quiver. Prototypes of Finisterre’s frst wetsuit are also available to test ahead of its winter launch. The two-foor store, which covers 1,500 square feet, is also home to a cofee shop that serves Small Batch Cofee, and hosts photography exhibitions, talks and flm screenings that help to raise the profle of the world’s cold-water surfng locations. bd Finisterre, 7 Earlham Street, London WC2H 9LL, +44 (0)20 7379 5400, fnisterreuk.com
In brief: — This year will see the opening of London label Erdem’s first standalone store on Mayfair’s South Audley Street. Erdem Moralio ğ lu, the designer behind the brand, is much loved for the modern romance of his floral creations
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GENIUS GIUSEPPE Giuseppe Zanotti has opened a menswear boutique in London, just a year after the very frst Homme store opened in Milan. Designs from the brand’s ready-towear, footwear and accessory collections line the walls of the minimal, sophisticated new space. The impressive two foors of luxurious fashion are sure to entice male visitors; this is a welcome addition to the London style scene. rf Giuseppe Zanotti Homme, 27 Lowndes Street, London SW1X 9HY, +44 (0)20 7838 7719, giuseppezanottidesign.com * for map go to page 84
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IN STORE: VICTORIA BECKHAM British pop music icon turned womenswear designer Victoria Beckham launched her eponymous fashion brand at New York Fashion Week to great acclaim in 2008. She has since received numerous accolades from the fashion industry and was named as the UK’s most successful entrepreneur of 2014. Gemma Latham spoke to the designer about opening her frst store in London’s prestigious Mayfair district, an exciting new chapter in the brand’s story
‘London was the obvious choice for my frst store. Not only is London home to my family, my ofce and my team, it’s also a really exciting city to shop in. I have loved Dover Street for such a long time and watched its development with real interest – it’s home to some amazing galleries and restaurants and some great boutique stores, and it really felt like the perfect ft for me. I’m so excited for us to be here. ‘To have our frst bricks-and-mortar store is a huge milestone. It just felt like the next step for the brand in what has been an incredibly exciting journey. We started
with our own e-commerce frst in order to understand what our customers wanted and what we could ofer them through our own brand environment. The site was very much the frst foray into seeing the brand through my eyes and the store now brings that to the next level within our own space. It’s about telling the customers exactly how I perceive the brand, its unique identity, and ofering them the pieces from each category that I have personally selected. ‘The design of the store was a very collaborative project between myself and the architect Farshid Moussavi. I had a really clear
Above (from lef): designer Victoria Beckham; the interior of her Dover Street store
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vision of how I wanted the store to feel and look, and it was amazing to be able to work with someone as talented as Farshid to make it a reality. ‘I really wanted the store to feel like me, I want people to be able to walk in and immediately know that this is a Victoria Beckham store. The perfect way for me to do this was to bring elements from my collections, like the hexagonal hanging chains which use the blonde gold hardware I have always used in my accessories and that people are familiar with. I think a lot of my design handwriting translated seamlessly into various Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 92
elements of the store design. I especially love the stairs and the sightline they achieve all the way through the three foors. ‘It’s quite a conceptual space with a really impactful sense of scale, but it’s also simple and refned in its statement. I hope it’s a store that people want to spend time in – somewhere unique and special but with a calm and welcoming feel.’ Victoria Beckham, 36 Dover Street, London W1S 4NH, +44 (0)20 7501 1122, victoriabeckham.com * for map go to page 79
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Above: Christopher Shannon spring/summer 2015
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
HERE COME THE BOYS
The stars of London Collections: Men are among those leading the way into a new era for British menswear design, reports Katie Ramsingh
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London’s modern menswear most impresses when it reflects both traditional techniques and new talent
PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM
Men who buy their clothes in London have long been faced with just two basic fashion choices: Savile Row suiting, the fully tailored look that features Britain’s fnest heritage materials, or an entirely urban look made up of sportswear fresh from the city’s street scene. While both styles have their merits, the most interesting looks presented at London Collections: Men are fnally ofering a middle way. A new breed of menswear designers, standing apart from the large fashion houses and mainstream design schools, has recently come to the fore, united by a common desire to push the limits of modern menswear. While British womenswear designers have long
Above (from lef): two looks from Agi & Sam, both spring/summer 2015; Sibling autumn/winter 2014/15; Sibling spring/summer 2015
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PHOTO: © CHRISTOPHER DADEY
hand-drawn and digital prints that in turn inspire their focused cuts. Agi & Sam is a prime example of the way modern British menswear designers are fusing old and new techniques to create fresh pieces. Cotton studied illustration before using his knowledge of colour theory to produce prints for Alexander McQueen and Karl Lagerfeld while Mdumulla had a more traditional training at a Soho-based tailor. Together, the pair create new and exciting designs that combine print and tailoring into innovative, engaging pieces. London’s modern menswear most impresses when it refects both traditional
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
enjoyed the freedom to lose themselves in the realms of whimsy, satire and subversion, designing with any and every woman in mind, it is only in the last decade that menswear designers have started to be aforded the same privilege. British label Agi & Sam is not afraid to push boundaries by embracing print. While many menswear designers only use print to reference bygone eras – a smattering of 70s snakeskin here or a sliver of 60s paisley there – this designer duo is turning the way menswear designers traditionally perceive print on its head. The designers behind the brand, Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton, work with both
techniques and new talent. The most successful designers, regardless of their particular style, realise that British craftsmanship is key – something the designers at knitwear specialist Sibling are well aware of. The label’s fun and colourful collections feature great craft knitting and pieces that subvert stereotypes. Miners inspired Sibling’s autumn/winter 2014/15 collection yet the designers’ informed use of knitwear meant that their references were so subtle that show notes were needed for explanation. This use of traditional craft in such a subversive way is refreshing and rewarding, resulting in wearable pieces that are underpinned by great talent and technique. The most headline-grabbing designs modelled on the catwalks at London Collections: Men are those that challenge
established norms by exploring gender roles. Designers such as Jonathan Anderson of JW Anderson have been pushing the limits of gender boundaries in their work. Anderson’s autumn/winter 2013 collection, for example, featured male models in bustier dresses while his spring/summer 2015 presentation saw men take to the catwalk with exposed midrifs or wearing of-the-shoulder jumpers. Sportswear has provided a launching point for many modern menswear designers; Christopher Shannon is among them and is known for ofering a fresh take on the tracksuit season after season. Shannon takes pieces usually worn by men on the sports feld and presents them in a fresh, conceptual way. His tracksuit-trouser hybrids stand out for featuring all of the elements of traditional sportswear
Above (from lef): two looks from JW Anderson; two Christopher Shannon styles, all spring/summer 2015
PHOTOS (ALL): © GORUNWAY.COM
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London’s menswear designers are not afraid to stand out combined with carefully selected additions that catapult them into a more controversial and innovative category. ‘London has always been one of the most stylish cities in the world but now, more than ever, London’s men are thinking twice about their looks,’ says Johnson Gold, editor of menswear magazine Pause. ‘Thanks to the “outft of the day” culture emerging from
social media channels such as Instagram, it’s only natural for men to want to take more risks. London’s menswear is on the rise and now LC:M is giving innovative menswear the recognition is deserves.’ Whether they are ofering a fresh take on print, pioneering innovative craftsmanship or blurring the lines between femininity and masculinity, London’s menswear designers are not afraid to stand out from the crowd. From traditional tailors and sportswear superstars to intellectual innovators, the diverse range of designers showing at London Collections: Men each season has helped make the event one of the most exciting weeks on the fashion calendar. It’s defnitely one to watch agiandsam.com, siblinglondon.com, j-w-anderson.com, christophershannon.co.uk
PHOTO: MICHAEL ROBERTS
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IN FOCUS:
MANOLO BLAHNIK Manolo Blahnik creates some of the world’s most alluring shoes, ofering luxury, glamour and timeless appeal every season, as Beth Druce discovers
Manolo Blahnik is a name synonymous with some of the world’s most desirable and luxurious footwear. Blahnik’s creations ofer the unrivalled glamour and timeless appeal that comes from decades of honing his craft, alongside design skills that ensure his creations remain in a league of their own. Born in the Canary Islands, Blahnik studied art in Paris, intending to become a set designer, before moving to London and starting to explore the world of shoes. ‘It was a very good time to design shoes as not many people were doing it,’ he recalls. In 1970, he was introduced to the legendary fashion editor Diana Vreeland; her timely advice to the young Blahnik shaped his future destiny.
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‘I was very lucky to be pointed towards shoe design by Ms Vreeland, who advised me to “focus on extremities” after she saw my sketches,’ says Blahnik. ‘So I started with my ideas, and a lot of them excited people as they were nothing like they have seen before; fruits and fowers on shoes [for example].’ It was this focus on the extreme, with an emphasis on inventive shapes and rich, exuberant colours, which distinguished Manolo Blahnik designs from the competition. Blahnik’s signature designs include the heeled sandal with straps across the ankle and toe. The style rose to prominence in the mid1990s, a period when the designer’s shoes were creating a buzz and being worn by the likes of Lef: designer Manolo Blahnik
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Diana, Princess of Wales and Anna Wintour. For Hollywood stars such as Mariah Carey and Jennifer Aniston, the strappy sandal worn with bare legs and a little black dress was the epitome of minimal 90s cool. ‘It’s a very simple strappy sandal,’ notes Blahnik. ‘I have done them for decades and they are always a huge hit as they are very fattering. Just two straps across the foot.’ A new take on the design is produced each season; the Chaos shoe of the spring/summer 2014 season was an open-toed sandal in black patent leather with a closed back and an ankle strap – its elegant simplicity allows the foot to remain on show. Blahnik, who still shapes his own lasts, says that women love the simplicity of his designs and the fact that they are so easy to wear. The most important element of his shoes, he explains, is the design, which has to be ‘creative and original. I love coming up with new ideas. But the execution is also very important. The fabrics have to be of the best quality, the last and heel have to be perfect, the balance has to be right and the fnishing has to be immaculate.’
Women love the easy-to-wear simplicity of Manolo Blahnik shoes
Above (from top): the designer’s sketch for his Brick shoe, 1971; the Chaos shoe, a Manolo Blahnik classic, spring/summer 2014 version
PHOTO: MICHAEL ROBERTS
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Manolo Blahnik’s winning design formula is an alluring combination of precision and beauty
For spring/summer 2015, the strappy sandal design comes in the form of the Coraletta, with toe and ankle straps adorned with a plethora of tiny resin corals. Coral is a key theme in Blahnik’s spring/summer 2015 collection, inspired by the island of Sicily, where the designer has spent many holidays. It’s not the frst time coral has featured in his collections; in 2000 the Tortura design was a heeled mule embellished with coral decorations hanging from tiny threads. ‘The shape and design of the shoe is timeless, but the corals add something special and are very me –
obviously we use resin,’ says Blahnik of the new-season Coraletta. ‘Coral fshing is a huge part of Sicilian culture. Every time I think of corals I think of Claudia Cardinale, and who could be more iconic?’ Cardinale, a Sicilian actress who became a star of the 1960s and 70s, possesses sensual, Mediterranean looks that perfectly complement the allure of Manolo Blahnik’s shoes. ‘She is a timeless Italian beauty and one of my favourite actresses of all time,’ Blahnik notes. ‘She starred in my beloved flm by [Luchino] Visconti, Il
Above (clockwise from top lef): work in progress at Manolo Blahnik; the Agnoli and the Coraleta shoes, spring/summer 2015; Manolo Blahnik store; lavender bags by the designer for Liberty; sketch for the Tortura shoe, 2001
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Gattopardo, which I must have watched hundreds of times.’ Cardinale, alongside Sophia Loren and Paz Vega, is one of a select group of women that Blahnik has cited as muses for his designs, which have included collaborations with London labels Liberty and Victoria Beckham. For as long as the fashion wheel keeps turning, Manolo Blahnik’s sandals will continue to follow his winning original design formula: an alluring combination of precision and beauty manoloblahnik.com
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Jewellery designer Lara Bohinc looks set to conquer the world of interiors as she branches out into homeware. She tells Frances Wasem about her plans
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It’s nine o’clock on a grey London morning and Lara Bohinc is striding through Hardy’s, a quiet brasserie in the heart of London’s Marylebone. The Slovenian-born designer cuts a striking fgure, dressed in a grey tweed Alexander Wang skater skirt, a butter-soft grey Julien Macdonald leather jacket and killer heels (her own label) that would hinder a lesser mortal. Her wrists and fngers are bejewelled with her own designs and a vintage fur jacket is thrown over her shoulders. ‘I’d say my style is Rachael from Blade Runner goes to Glastonbury,’ says Bohinc. Like Lef: Lara Bohinc spring/summer 2015 Eye and Planetaria rings
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other efortlessly chic female designers such as Roksanda Ilincic, she clearly understands that she is a walking endorsement of her brand. Her modern take on 1940s glamour helped make the accessory designer a darling of the London social scene when she launched her label in 1997, but as well as creativity, Bohinc clearly possesses a strategic business brain. In an industry where new designers often burn bright but fade fast, Bohinc has successfully evolved her business to become an enduring member of London’s cool designer set, alongside the likes of Giles Deacon, Preen and Erdem. 97 / 104
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Bohinc lives in Marylebone with her husband Ben and six-year-old daughter Coco but works out of a studio in the edgy East End district of Shoreditch. She moved to London in 1994 to study for an MA in jewellery and metalwork at the Royal College of Art. ‘The British are very open to new ideas,’ she explains. Her designs are strongly infuenced by her 1970s childhood. ‘I grew up in Slovenia, where there was a huge Brutalist movement symbolising the new world of communist countries – modern, almost space-like, architecture. Gymnastics was also a big thing, along with synchronised swimming.’ Bohinc works with precious metals such as gold and silver, as well as earthier metals such as brass and copper, and combines them with precious and semi-precious stones. The UK’s Above: Lara Bohinc and the Solaris Kinetic table
‘The British are very open to new ideas’ Lara Bohinc
jewellery industry is now worth over £5bn, according to recent research by Key Note, and Bohinc is a key player in the market. She also produces scarves, and bags made from the softest jewel-coloured calfskin and snakeskin, all featuring jewellery-like clasps.
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Her jewellery collection for spring/ summer 2015 is called the Eye. ‘I’ve been obsessed with the idea of timeless artifacts for about a year. The ancient eye has been used throughout history,’ Bohinc explains. The designer’s fascination with the way flms like 2001: A Space Odyssey, Metropolis, Solaris and Blade Runner interpret the future through design is also refected in her work. The designer sees her jewellery and her latest venture into furniture as interconnected. ‘Jewellery is an object for the body and
furniture an object for the home,’ she says. The Solaris Kinetic table, designed for Wallpaper magazine’s 2014 Handmade exhibition, has now gone into production. ‘The Solaris Kinetic table was inspired by the movement of the planets,’ explains Bohinc. She had, for a while, wanted to create bigger pieces that weren’t limited by size and cost, as jewellery can be. The result is the brass and stone table, made up of four stacked circles of marble which move when touched. She also recently created the London
Above: (clockwise from top lef): London Collection candles by Lara Bohinc for Skultuna; examples of the designer’s jewellery; Double Eye chain bracelet spring/summer 2015; London Collection for Skultuna desk accessory; a scarf from the spring/summer 2015 collection
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The designer sees her jewellery and her latest venture into furniture as interconnected
Collection, a line of candleholders, for Swedish interior design company Skultuna. The candleholders’ patterns, designs inspired by the movement of a bird’s wing and the highways of Japan, draw on jewellery techniques such as photo etching, where acid is used to eat around fne lines printed onto a sheet of metal. Bohinc also has a line of desk accessories for Skultuna in the pipeline. The designer was appointed MBE in 2012 for services to the fashion industry. Is this Member of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire
building an empire of her own, in the form of a global lifestyle brand, to hand on to her daughter? ‘It takes a long time to build a big brand,’ Bohinc ponders. ‘They say the frst generation builds, the second establishes and the third reaps the rewards. Or destroys it.’ She breaks into a smile. ‘I asked my daughter if she wanted to inherit the business and she said, “Yeah, okay.” But she’s only six – she can still be whatever she wants to be.’ And so it seems, can Lara Bohinc larabohinc.com
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TABLE TALK Fine dining in London isn’t just for carnivores, as Isabella Redmond Styles discovers
For many years, London’s best restaurants refused to step away from the steak. Dining out in the city’s top restaurants all too often revolved around meat, leaving vegetarians with less-than-imaginative alternatives – or missing out altogether. However, vegetables are fnally being given a starring role in some of London’s most prestigious kitchens. This is largely due to a renewed interest in seasonality, provenance and simple but sublime ingredients, as diners become more discerning – and also more interested in food that is healthy and lighter as well as delicious. Chefs have picked up on this cue and many are investing as much thought and care into their vegetarian dishes as they do into the meatier options on their menus. Examples range from the entirely vegetarian tasting menus served at Alyn Williams’s Michelin-starred restaurant to the simpler but no less appetising vegetable-based dishes on ofer at a new wave of restaurants such as Grain Store. There has never been a better time to forgo the foie gras. globalblue.com
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PHOTO: AMY MURRELL
GRAIN STORE Part of the continued regeneration of the King’s Cross area, Grain Store is the work of French restaurateur and chef Bruno Loubet, a man with a magic touch when it comes to vegetables. This bright and breezy eaterie, designed by Russell Sage, isn’t entirely vegetarian but the veggie dishes available are given just as much, if not more, thought and care than their meatier counterparts. There are no mediocre risottos here; instead, expect a vegetablecentred menu comprised of dishes such as toasted fermented corn brioche, burnt leeks, slow-cooked duck egg and lovage oil, or wild mushroom croquettes with pine needle salt. Weekend brunch is a highlight. Grain Store, 1-3 Stable Street, London N1C 4AB, +44 (0)20 7324 4466, grainstore.com
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PHOTO: © PER-ANDERS JORGENSEN
LY L E ’ S
A LY N W I L L I A M S AT T H E W E ST BU RY This is of the few Michelin-starred restaurants in London to ofer a vegetarian tasting menu, so those who don’t eat meat certainly won’t miss out here. Alyn Williams was head chef at Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley before opening his eponymous restaurant in the smart Westbury hotel in Mayfair in 2011, and it has become a frm favourite on the London dining scene. Diners who choose the vegetarian globalblue.com
Located in Shoreditch’s landmark Tea Building, Lyle’s was opened last year by James Lowe, one third of the popular Young Turks cooking collective. Filled with light and quietly stylish, the restaurant favours a set price tasting menu for dinner. With an emphasis on simplicity, quality ingredients and seasonality, plates such as pumpkin, milk and caramel and beetroot, hazelnut and goat’s curd ensure that vegetarian taste buds are satisfed. Lyle’s, Tea Building, 56 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JJ, +44 (0)20 3011 5911, lyleslondon.com
tasting menu can expect favour and texture combinations that are just as inspired as those from the restaurant’s other selections. The menu changes with the seasons but previous highlights have included Jerusalem artichoke royale with kohlrabi, orange, parmesan and trufe and a moreish dessert of white chocolate, candied fennel and lime. Alyn Williams at the Westbury, The Westbury, 37 Conduit Street, London W1S 2YF, +44 (0)20 7183 6426, alynwilliams.com
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PHOTO: © PATRICIA NIVEN 2014
HONEY & CO
CAFE MURANO Café Murano brings the favours of northern Italy to London’s historic St James’s district, under the guidance of Angela Hartnett, the Michelin-starred chef already in charge of the well-established and much-lauded Murano restaurant in Mayfair. Café Murano’s approach is uncomplicated, with a menu that changes daily and makes the best of seasonal produce. Vegetarian options are packed full of Mediterranean favours and diners can expect
Husband-and-wife team Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich opened Honey & Co in Bloomsbury in 2012, serving breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. The food is broadly Middle Eastern, inspired by the Levant area. Showstopping vegetarian oferings include black bursa fgs with whipped feta, raw eucalyptus honey, pistachios and mint, as well as classic mezze like falafel with garlic yogurt and burnt aubergine bourekka. Save room for dessert – Honey & Co’s are nothing short of sensational. Honey & Co, 25A Warren Street, London W1T 5LZ, +44 (0)20 7388 6175, honeyandco.co.uk
starters like a heritage beetroot salad with homemade ricotta and pine nuts, or burrata, grilled aubergine and basil. Heartier pasta dishes such as broccoli, squash and parmesan tagliatelle or taleggio, guanciale and Jerusalem artichoke baked gnocchi are imaginative and rich, while delicious side dishes such as caulifower with almonds or kale with chilli and garlic are good enough to eat by themselves. Café Murano, 33 Saint James’s Street, London SW1A 1HD, +44 (0)20 3371 5559, cafemurano.co.uk
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STAY IN STYLE
PHOTO: DAVID RALITA
The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best
BANKE HOTEL One of Paris’s most characterful hotels, Banke is located within the former headquarters of a bank at the heart of the Opéra district. Guests will be impressed as soon as they enter the lobby, which is crowned with a spectacular glass cupola, while each of the 94 suites features refned décor with tones of chocolate and globalblue.com
cream. The interior strikes the perfect balance between honouring the bank’s original features and contemporary design, while the extensive art collection includes works from Egyptian, Roman and Buddhist cultures. Check into the prestigious Lafayette Suite to experience the utmost luxury. Banke Hotel, 20 rue Lafayette, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 5533 2225, hotelbanke.com
PHOTO: ERIC CUVILLIER
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LE MÉRIDIEN BARCELONA Le Méridien Barcelona on La Rambla, one of Barcelona’s most famous streets, is within walking distance of the city’s main attractions. Among the 231 rooms are new family suites with wonderfully comfortable beds, deluxe
showers and television screens. The hotel’s other facilities are similarly luxurious – guests can enjoy CentOnze restaurant, Longitude Bar 02˚10’, Le Pop Cocktail Bar and the Explore Spa Studio, which ofers an extensive programme of treatments. Le Méridien Barcelona, La Rambla 111, 08002 Barcelona, +34 93 318 6200, lemeridienbarcelona.es
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OLISSIPPO LAPA PALACE Olissippo Lapa Palace dates back to the 1800s and is now one of Portugal’s most luxurious hotels. Located on a hilltop overlooking the Tagus River, it is surrounded by stunning subtropical gardens. The hotel’s 109 individually decorated rooms are spread across three wings; globalblue.com
each room features local fabrics and furniture, and décor styles range from art deco to neoclassical. The indoor and outdoor swimming pools compete for attention with the hotel’s spa, which has a Turkish steam bath and massage treatments, while Mediterranean cuisine is served in the fne-dining restaurant. Olissippo Lapa Palace, Rua do Pau da Bandeira 4, 1249-021 Lisbon, +351 21 394 9494, olissippohotels.com
PHOTO: STEFANO OPPO
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ENTERPRISE HOTEL A four-star design hotel located within easy reach of Milan’s main attractions, the Enterprise Hotel combines understated style with an array of amenities. The 126 elegant rooms feature complimentary Wi-Fi and luxury bed linen, while the hotel’s impressive attractions include Sophia’s Restaurant with its menu of regional organic produce,
and a selection of fne wines, cheese and charcuterie served in the Wine Cellar. Take time to relax at the Terme di Kyoto spa which ofers a range of treatments alongside panoramic city views. Enterprise Hotel, Corso Sempione 91, 20149 Milan, +39 02 318181, enterprisehotel.com
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GUIDE
PHOTO: XIMENA PHOTO: DANERI XXXXXXX
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to London with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the coolest concept stores to the city’s must-see museums. Start with our recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.
A GLIMPSE OF LONDON Above: St Paul’s Cathedral is one of the city’s most famous landmarks
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MOYNAT
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Moynat encapsulates discreet luxury to such a degree that you might be unfamiliar with this French leather goods brand. However, the label has been producing exquisite bags since 1849 and was historically known for its luggage trunks. Moynat recently opened its frst London store on exclusive Mount Street. Visitors can browse the latest collection, which includes timeless, structured handbags as well as clutches, crossbody styles and shoppers. Moynat, 112 Mount Street, London W1K 2TU, +44 (0)20 7495 3885, moynat.com
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I US OT EN Z A OC L R EG O R S F IER LO O M T H N E P CO OX FO R D S T RE ● A U R O WU D I A R C ET ACCESSORIZE ● ● B L A M I N ● PINKO ● C IAN S ● G AIL ICA L BOSIDENG ● E ● N RT H R ● A US O A BROWNS ● ● L INK TIE D D WHISTLES ● ● P ER AR ● B ÉR BS PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND ● B ● G NK BUTLER & WILSON ● ● HO W 3 CE ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● ● N PA S I N I O ● S EIS IM R R CLAUDIE PIERLOT ● ER ● R AT C A K E DUNE ● ● C AS BA OM EN ● M ED ICE W K ILL ● T FF LO M R VERTICE UOMO ● ● O EL EN A JONES ● ● Y AR WE U ● K LO E N T E A MONICA VINADER ● ● S A J OO BA E R THE KOOPLES ● ● M AS IT IN GE ● S E T O L EI AFTERSHOCK ● ● P UC T G ET T POSTE ● ● R UR E LA Y COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● ● K T I N CO ER ● AR HO MODA IN PELLE ● LL T C AUBADE ● ● K WE OF N C JE S DO SANDRO ● ● INK N FREY WILLE ● L LO SPENCE R ● ANNOUSHKA ● ● HART
ET
Selfridges BOND STREET
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● PAUL SMITH
DAVIES STR EET
VERA WANG AT BROWNS ●
RO
PHOTO: MELVYN VINCENT 2014
W
GROSVEN OR STREET
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Restaurant
Hotel
Department Store
Featured In This issue
London Underground Station
G U I D E | 79
New Bond Street OX FO R D ST RE
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P.44
Place Of Interest
80 | G U I D E
Conduit Street & Old Bond Street
TOP 3…SPAS
T● G OA E R AS D ID KE O L IV Y ● -3 A IYA E ● Y SEY M EEN CH ● SW T ● IS ● SKE OTO A M J O H N● AM OS JI Y VAT YO H VA R AND B IE OM NE AV IL R H IE N ●C UE N V IV M A N ● A L IQ ARA SON D ●L AK OOD RNO ● SHE O ONN L HER WO ST W ● ETE ●D WE EST EY IE L N W K A NNE ●D HOC LLER ● IV IE E I● UTI ●V &P ARH E BY ERL LE F R IG ROB ●B O ARD N IC ●W ● YS BAR HEB S● OLO Y SOT ●P ARD ERR N● DW URB E R E E O S S IA O ● ●B PET T IN A T SCH LL & MO USSE EY ● R ML BRO
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E B RE F AT O A LV ●S EPH S O ●J IL A A H AT ● C X MAR er ● Dov eet PER ● MA M ● E TA A A O S t r r k e t CT U J A NE X ● R AD GA VEN P ● TE Z Ma C A R R O L IS ● B O T L K AT R ● K ● A I A IE V N IE AR NC N M I ● L E V N T ● H ● DA T B L A G I AE L L AT ON U R E M IT C ● M E G A Burlington T L A AU L S BUC M O I Arcade S A IN ● P R E E T ● IA N ST AM CI ● RD ●D F FO GUC RON S K S TA E A H ● ANA ● D PERL A VA C N T IN ABB QUEEN A S TA U● ● L LCE & G MC CO N V ER T R E O ● ●D AND LDI LEX IN A RE AR ●A U LT R● R IN T IE O D ’S - L E C O B MA CAR ●T ● B ER O WE A EG & ETR J AL ● IN R OY Y APP ● ●M THE ADEM ERS E C B A DE
TIFFAN Y & CO ● PAUL SMITH ● N E L ● CHA NY ● DK
1. Espa Life at Corinthia A relative newcomer to London’s spa scene, Espa Life at Corinthia has already garnered numerous awards, not to mention a very loyal fanbase. Once you’ve viewed the state-of-the-art facilities and the extensive spa menu, which includes everything from sleep-enhancing treatments to sports training, it’s easy to see why. Espa Life at Corinthia, Corinthia Hotel London, Whitehall Place, London SW1A 2BD, +44 (0)20 7321 3050, espalifeatcorinthia.com 2. Grace Belgravia Grace Belgravia is described as a private members’ club for women that’s dedicated to the art of living well. Inside this impressive Belgravia building you’ll find a medical clinic, spa, gym and health food café. Those on a real health kick can take the Grace Intensive Cleanse programme, which involves diagnostic testing, nutrition analysis and bespoke detox treatments and exercise. Grace Belgravia, 11C West Halkin Street, London SW1X 8JL, +44 (0)20 7235 8900, gracebelgravia.com
S AV
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ET TRE RD S S ● FFO N CLI ON & SO ORT
C H ’S
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CO
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M A DD OX
CLARKS ●
3. The Bulgari Spa The Bulgari Spa brings together European and Asian spa traditions in an ultra-luxe setting. Located beneath the Bulgari hotel in Knightsbridge, this two-storey complex houses 11 treatment rooms, a gym, multiple steam rooms, saunas and ice showers and a private spa suite, which is available to book for the day and includes a two-hour treatment of your choice. Bulgari Hotel & Residences London, 171 Knightsbridge, London SW7 1DW, +44 (0)20 7151 1010, bulgarihotels.com for map go to page 83
* 3
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PHOTO: TOM SULLAM
TRE
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Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Place Of Interest
Department Store
Shopping Centre/Mall
Restaurant
S H O P | 81
Regent Street TOP 3…ASIAN RESTAURANT OPENINGS
BENETTON ● FRENCH CONNECTION ● KAREN MILLEN ● TED BAKER ● APPLE STORE ● LACOSTE ●
OX FO RD ST
● TEZENIS
RE ET
● OMEGA
LONGCHAMP ●
● & OTHER STORIES ● ACCESSORIZE
● ARMANI EXCHANGE ● ALL SAINTS
MOLTON BROWN ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● MICHAEL KORS ●
6
● H&M
● BAN
M P.10 A SC U TU ● AQ U T B LI C U STR EE EP R ANA OUGH
G R E AT
FURLA ● HOBBS ● BARKER ● TUMI ● CAMPER ● KIPLING ● CLARKS ●
OR MARLB Liberty
● COS ● DESIGUAL ● GAP
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● KURT GEIGER
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● JUICY COUTURE
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CHURCH’S ● THE PEN SHOP ●
FO
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*
● TOPSHOP/TOPMAN
OXFORD CIRCUS
R EG E
3. Jinjuu Chef Judy Joo, previously of the Playboy Club restaurant and Gordon Ramsay, has set up residence in the Carnaby area, where she offers her take on Korean street food. Expect small plates such as kimchi fries, jeon pancakes and Korean fried chicken. Jinjuu, 15 Kingly Street, London W1B 5PS, +44 (0)20 8181 8887, jinjuu.com for map go to page 82
● NIKETOWN
H&M ●
● HOUSE OF HANOVER
2. Duck & Rice A ‘Chinese gastropub’ from Alan Yau, the man behind Hakkasan and Yauatcha, Duck & Rice spans two floors of a former pub in Soho, with a bar downstairs and an informal restaurant with plenty of counter dining upstairs. Duck & Rice, 90 Berwick Street, London W1F 0QB, +44 (0)20 7291 5100
GR EAT C ASTLE STREET
LEVI’S ●
REGENT STR EE T
1. Bó Drake Bó Drake, an East Asian barbecue restaurant, is the new venture of chef Jan Lee, formerly of London hotspot Roka. There’s a focus on sharing plates and a menu divided into sections such as ‘raw’, ‘bowls’ and ‘smalls’. Diners can expect delights like slow-cooked barbecue duck, Lee’s kimchi and potato pancake and dan dan smoked pork belly. Bó Drake, 6 Greek Street, London W1D 4DE, bodrake.co.uk
PHOTO: RICHARD BRYANT/ARCAIDIMAGES.COM
3
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Restaurant
Featured In This Issue
Department Store
London Underground Station
82 | G U I D E
Regent Street, Piccadilly & Jermyn Street ● HUGO BOSS ● ESPRIT ● LEVI’S
Cinnamon Soho Jinjuu P.81
● REISS
R EGE
LE R OW
BEA
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TRE
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S AV
RUSSELL & ● BROMLEY
OW
ZARA HOME ●
TRE
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● MAPPIN & WEBB
SWAROVSKI ●
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● TOMMY HILFIGER
GODIVA ●
AM
LOW
● TIMBERLAND
OXFORDS ●
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● BROOKS BROTHERS
R EE T
WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND ●
. K ST
● PIQUADRO
LOW
L’OCCITANE ●
NT ST
CRABTREE & EVELYN ●
● TM LEWIN
PENHALIGON’S ●
● FOLLI FOLLIE
TOYWATCH ●
● THE BODY SHOP ● ZARA ● MANGO
BURBERRY ●
BR
EW
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ST
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DINOSAUR DESIGN ●
ET
D YAR HAM
FRESCOBAL CARIOCA ● BRUMMELS OF LONDON ● ONCE ● MILANO EYEWEAR ● CONCIERGE ACE
S AV I
● WOLFORD ● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● GUESS ● ANTHROPOLOGIE ● MASSIMO DUTTI
● AUSTIN REED ● WOLFORD ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT ● MOSS CLARKS ● ● UNIQLO ● LUSH LONDON TEXTILE CO ● ● COACH
DENM AN PL
VIGO STR EE T
REISS ●
SUPERDRY ●
THE LEFT SHOE COMPANY
STR E ET
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PICCADILLY CIRCUS Piccadilly Circus ● LILLYWHITES
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St James’s Square
● JAMES LOCK & CO
P.36
DENMAN STREET
RE
’S DON WLEY ● RO E T T S LON M ● EM S NE ● JO OF T IG E R E D E N ’S ● SW U RCH USE ● CH O GLE H ● EA L E W IN ● TM NES ● R STO WAT E KS ● DA T IS ● W H IT CURT S TYR ES & ARLE H AW ● CH R EE T RK ST O F YO DUK E DSON & HU LEY R V IE ROM ● HA L&B SSEL ON ● RU LON D DRO F F IE L D KS O ● LLA ● L IN O N & W H IT S XT JO N E ● PA TT & RLES OCKE ● CR K CHA D E R IC ● RO O R IS ● FL BB H N LO ● JO T Y● CK E T & KE ● ● HA IT C H EN H IL D K SON BARK E ● ● P IN ER & AK FOST IS T D SPE R ● WS H AN & CU H C Z EC WES N D IS ● HA C AV E VERE S’ S JA M E ● DE T ST
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P.86
● MR HARE
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GL
C MAR AMPO Z IO ● E XC OF L ELLENC OND O N ●E H AW CU ES & T H E S R T IS ● T IN G ●
SELECTED STORES IN PRINCESS ARCADE:
CH A R
LE S II
STR E
ET
ET
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Department Store
Café
Restaurant
Featured In This Issue
Shopping Centre
G U I D E | 83
Brompton Road
RO X
N RO AD
●
KENSINGTON ROA D
KNIGHTSBRIDGE
BU RB
Bulgari Hotel
P.80
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PA
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●
NS
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LA
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●
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●
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N HI
PONT S ● SKANDIUM
Place Of Interest
London Underground Station
DM
AR
CH
T R EE T
C R ESCENT
N RO AD
HA
LLADRO VERTU P.87
O PAV IL LI
RO AD
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AM
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●
●
SELECTED STORES IN HARRODS:
S
NC
JO
●
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●
CH
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●
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●
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●
●
● N ● BA M IL ● L K L LY LE ● EC B E N C N G ● AN O NE A TT ● C T C BA E SL SS ● ER OR ● BA IZ ● WA R K E ● TO TC ER ● TH M H ● MA E K MY ES ● K S O H OF ● T E U TC SI M O P I L F SW ● RU D B HIN O D LES IGE IT R ZE ZA SS AK S U RL R A EL ER KY T T I L AN & D B ● KNIGHTSBRIDGE R O F M EA LE TH Y ER H S
BA
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●
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T R E VO
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●
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HARVEY NICHOLS ●
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A
84 | G U I D E
STELLA MCCARTNEY
Sloane Street North
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
The spring/summer collection from Stella McCartney combines feminine elegance with bold functionalism to present a vision of simple and self-assured sophistication with a laid-back, sporty twist. The collection encompasses crisp tailoring, smart denim daywear, slinky knitwear and fowing silk sportswear. Embroidered motifs and cut-out patterns add interest. Most of the daywear looks feature just one hue; in contrast, evening dresses are created from a patchwork of multi-coloured chifon, perfect for garden parties and summer soirées. Stella McCartney, 91-95 Fulham Road, London SW3 6RH, +44 (0) 20 7589 0092, stellamccartney.com
Sloane Street South CADO GAN GAT E
KNIGHTSBRIDGE
CADOGAN PLACE
Harvey Nichols BOODLES ● KID SPACE ●
● PINK ELL IS STREET
● GARRARD C A DO G A N G A R DEN
● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
● TOM FORD ● ERMANNO SCERVINO ● MONCLER ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI
BILLIONAIRE ● HOGAN ● GRAFF ●
● ESCADA ● MISSONI
ANNE FONTAINE ●
● LOUIS VUITTON ● BERLUTI ● GINA ● ROGER VIVIER
ROBERTO CAVALLI ●
● VERSACE ● FENDI
● DRJIE ● LA PERLA ● COUTTS & CO BANK
CADOGA N PLACE
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Place Of Interest
Restaurant
G’ S
RD
Department Store
SLOANE SQUARE S LOA N E G A R D E N S
● CHANEL
KIN
Colbe rt
P.40
● EMILIO PUCCI
LARA B OHNIC PICKETT N PEAL CASSANDRA GOAD
● HUGO BOSS
● SAINT LAURENT
● MAJE ● ● ● ●
LOW ER SLOANE STREE T
LORO PIANA ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI P.41 DESIGN ●
● VALENTINO
SLOA NE TERRACE
● PICKETT
Sloane Square ROYAL COURT THEATRE
● DODO ● BOGGI ● HOSS INTROPIA
PRADA ●
● DOLCE & GABBANA
AMOUAGE ●
GIORGIO ARMANI ●
GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI ●
WILBR AHA M P L .
● CHLOÉ ● MONTBLANC ● JO MALONE
SY MONS STR EE T
● TM LEWIN ● RIGBY & PELLER ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● WOLFORD ● ELLIOT RHODES ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● BCBGMAXAZRIA ● CATH KIDSTON ● ERIC BOMBARD ● WHISTLES ● COS
JIMMY CHOO ●
● BULGARI
L O W N D E S S T.
● HERMÈS
SLOANE STREET
DIOR ●
● KABIRI BIMBA Y ● LOLA VIVIENNE ● WESTWOOD
PAULE KA BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ANYA HINDMARCH BROWNS
LINKS OF LONDON ● PETER JONES ●
● MIU MIU
MARNI ● GIANFRANCO FERRÉ ●
CARTIER ● TIFFANY & CO ●
A● HK ● US RS NO TE S ● A N T ROT P L E Y ● O E KO M L I ● TH E BRO L& EL
GUCCI ●
SS
JOSEPH ●
TOD’S ●
Lowndes Square
HARRIET ST.
BONPOINT ●
BOTTEGA VENETA ●
LES PETITES ● MARIE CHANTAL ● PAUL & JOE ● FRANK SMYTHSON ● HACKETT ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●
RU
BA
● ALBERTA FERRETTI
KIK
SI
LS
TR
EE
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DELVAUX Belgian luxury leather goods house Delvaux has opened its frst UK fagship on prestigious New Bond Street. The new store showcases the brand’s collections of handbags, small leather goods and accessories and brings Delvaux’s characteristic Flemish fair to London. Explore the new Delvaux store concept inside the boutique, which was designed by Luxembourg artists Martine Feipel and Jean Bechameil, and complements the house’s discreetly luxurious style perfectly. Delvaux, 36 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RP, +44 (0)20 7493 5658, delvaux.com * for map go to page 79
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FORTNUM & MASON Department stores don’t get much more British than the world-famous Fortnum & Mason, located at its Piccadilly premises since it was opened by William Fortnum, a royal footman, and Hugh Mason in 1707. Fortnum & Mason is renowned for its gourmet delicacies, from fragrant teas and exquisite chocolates to lavish hampers, and the store’s well-known tea rooms and restaurants are also a popular destination. Fortnum’s ofers far more than food: visitors can also fnd jewellery, perfume, millinery and women’s accessories. Gentlemen should head for the third foor, which houses an impressive selection of men’s accessories, grooming products and stationery, as well as games, leather goods and luggage.
Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, London W1A 1ER, +44 (0)20 7734 8040, fortnumandmason.com * for map go to page 82
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VERTU
Vertu is known the world over for its luxury mobile phones. This season the British brand has launched a range of Vertu V headphones in collaboration with Danish sound specialist Bang & Olufsen. As ever, Vertu’s latest ofering is crafted from the highest quality materials, including premium leather and aircraft-grade aluminium, while powerful audio performance delivers crisp details and deep bass. The result is a pair of headphones that is spectacular to look at and brilliant to listen to. Vertu at Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7225 6624, vertu.com * for map go to page 83
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MY NEIGHBOURHOOD: ANNA HAUGH Anna Haugh, head chef at Gordon Ramsay’s London House restaurant in Battersea, south London, started her career at Michelin-starred L’Ecrivain in Dublin, her home city, before moving to London in 2005. She shares her Battersea address book with Isabella Redmond Styles
which is a fantastic building steeped in history and a real creative hub for all the family with great shows and productions. The Doodle Bar is also a stone’s throw from London House and is more than just a bar, with a great calendar of events from painting workshops to ping pong and quizzes. ‘There are few things I enjoy more in the area than sipping cofee in Battersea Square under a crisp blue sky. However, most of the time I’m more likely to be found at London House, usually plotting with my kitchen brigade, planning menus and experimenting with new dishes. When I get the chance, I like to visit Le QuecumBar, a 1930s Parisian-style brasserie. It’s great for me as it opens late and always has live music. It’s fun
Above (clockwise from lef): Batersea Arts Centre; Batersea Power Station; York & Albany; Union Street Café; The Breakfast Club
PHOTO: (PROFILE) JONATHAN PERUGIA
‘My favourite area of the city is Battersea. When I frst arrived in London from Ireland I fell in love with Battersea Park and the iconic power station. Since opening London House I’ve really got to know the area. The frst thing that struck me was the incredibly positive community spirit, and then there’s the buildings, the location by the river, the history and of course all the great pubs and places to eat. ‘Our next-door neighbour is a boutique called Rolanda, owned by a lady of the same name. It’s been there for 17 years and it’s a real treasure trove of fabulous fashion. It’s dangerous, though, as popping in to say hello often ends up with me walking out with a new outft and jewellery. ‘Then there’s Battersea Arts Centre,
PHOTO: XXXXXXX
PHOTO: © MORLEY VON STERNBERG
gordon-ramsay.com
PHOTO: ANDY BARNHAM
PHOTO: CHARLIE RICHARDS PHOTOGRAPHY LIMITED
PHOTO: MARK COLLITON CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
PHOTO: © GORDON RAMSAY HOLDINGS LTD/ CHRIS TUBBS
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3 and busy and all the staf are local and take time to know you. ‘If I have friends visiting, I try to take them to a show at Battersea Arts Centre and always to one of our sister Gordon Ramsay restaurants – for Italian at Union Street Café in Southwark, British at York & Albany in Camden or, for a real treat, the three Michelin-starred Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea. ‘I don’t have a favourite walk as such, but every morning and evening I walk between Clapham Junction and Battersea Square. Some of it’s new and some of it’s old, there’s a great mix of people and it makes me feel part of the fabric of real London life – I fnd it captivating. My favourite view is probably from the bandstand in the Horniman
Gardens as it ofers a breathtaking vista of London. ‘A chef’s hours are pretty long and on the odd occasions I get some me time, I hunker down in my apartment, often in my pyjamas – it’s a rare treat! If I’m feeling more adventurous I might head to the King of Ladies Man, a hidden cocktail bar accessed through a kitsch launderette that’s inside a casual café called the Breakfast Club. Or to the quiz at Battersea pub the Candlemaker. I’m pretty rubbish, but it’s great fun. ‘As for a best-kept local secret, it has to be London House – we recently scooped three AA rosettes just a year after opening. London House is a neighbourhood restaurant for locals in the know, although more and more people are discovering us.’
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BICESTER VILLAGE Located just one hour away from central London, Bicester Village is surrounded by picturesque countryside and is close to the historic city of Oxford. Bicester Village plays host to more than 130 boutiques from leading big-name brands and creative up-and-coming labels. The architectural design refects its setting, with low-rise boutiques clustered around an open-air boulevard. Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6WD, +44 (0)1869 366266, bicestervillage.com Opening times Monday-Friday: 10am-7pm Saturday: 9am-8pm Sunday: 10am-7pm* *On Sundays Burberry, Gucci, Hugo Boss and Polo Ralph Lauren open at 11.30am for browsing and at 12pm for shopping; they close at 6pm. Prada and Versace open from 12pm to 6pm for shopping.
SERVICES
A suite of services includes the awardwinning Bicester Visitor Centre, a children’s play area, valet parking, Hands-free Shopping, instant tax refunds and money change, a contemplation room and personal
globalblue.com
DON’T MISS… Shopping Day Experience This exclusive package includes: • Return tickets on the Shopping Express® luxury coach service from central London to Bicester Village • A VIP Card providing additional savings on purchases in more than 130 boutiques • Hands-free Shopping service where boutique assistants pack your purchases ready for collection later • A two-course lunch or dinner at either Villandry Grand Café or Carluccio’s • £50 Bicester Village Gift Card for use in boutiques of your choice.
NEW OPENINGS Oscar de la Renta Add a touch of Hollywood glamour to your wardrobe with a trip to Oscar de la Renta. The designer is known for producing inherently feminine pieces.
Barbour Barbour, founded in 1894, espouses the unique values of the British countryside and motorcycle heritage in its beautifully functional clothing.
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PERFECT DAY
Verity Hogan, SHOP’s features editor, describes how she would spend a perfect day at Bicester Village
HOW TO GET THERE By Train There are up to three train services an hour from London Marylebone to Bicester North station, increasing to four in September 2015. The journey time from London Marylebone to Bicester North can take as little as 42 minutes. The Bicester Village Shuttle Bus will whisk you to your favourite boutiques.
10am
Start your day with a masterclass in British style at Charles Tyrwhitt. The label is famed for its highquality, precision-cut shirts and expert service.
By Shopping Express®
11am
1pm
Salvatore Ferragamo, creator of exquisite shoes, set up his fashion house in 1927. Today it also produces menswear, womenswear, fragrances and eyewear collections.
Stop for lunch at Italian restaurant Carluccio’s. The menu includes fresh pasta, risotto and salad dishes, while the atmosphere is lively and relaxed.
5pm
3pm
End your day admiring the stylish, hardwearing and practical luggage at Samsonite. An item from here will be ideal for transporting your purchases home safely.
A modern American luxury brand rooted in quality and craftsmanship, Coach is synonymous with the ease and sophistication of New York style.
The Shopping Express® is the daily* coach service from central London to Bicester Village, one of the world’s premier luxury shopping destinations. *excludes 25 December Ticket prices: Adult return £28 Child return £23 (up to 15 years of age) By Car The journey from London takes 60 minutes. Take the M40 motorway to exit nine. Follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester and then follow the signs to Village Retail Park and Bicester Village Outlet Centre. The car park is free. If you are using a satellite navigation system, the postcode is OX26 6WD.
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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop
2. Claim
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.
Spend a minimum of £30 and save up to 11% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 48: Here Come The Boys
Мальчики на сцене
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
Звезды проекта London Collections: Men открывают новую эру британской мужской моды, - рассказывает Кати Рамсайн
На протяжении многих лет перед мужчинами, обновляющими гардероб в Лондоне, стоит сложный модный выбор. С одной стороны – костюмы с Савил-Роу, полностью сшитые на заказ из лучших тканей Британии, с другой – современный городской образ, основанный на спортивном уличном стиле. Разумеется, у обоих вариантов есть свои неоспоримые преимущества. Но самые globalblue.com
интересные комплекты, все же, предлагают промежуточный вариант, и познакомиться с ними можно на London Collections: Men. Новое поколение дизайнеров мужской одежды стоит особняком по отношению к большим модным домам и мейнстриму. Однако в последнее время они становятся все более заметными, а объединяет их желание раздвинуть границы современной мужской моды. При этом авторы женских коллекций давно пожинают плоды свободного обращения с эксцентричностью, иронией и разоблачением, работая для всех и каждой. Тогда как дизайнеры мужской одежды только в последнее десятилетие могут позволить себе такую же роскошь. Британская марка Agi & Sam выбрала собственный способ преодолевать границы допустимого – с помощью принтов. Как правило, в мужских комплектах принты отсылают к прежним эпохам – это может быть немного змеиной кожи из 1970-х или полоска с узором пейсли из 1960-х. Однако этот дуэт кардинально меняет установившуюся традицию. Дизайнеры бренда Аги Мдумулла и Сэм Коттон используют как рисунки ручной работы, так и цифровые изображения, делая их основой специфических моделей. Марка Agi & Sam олицетворяет стремление современных британских дизайнеров смешивать старые и новые техники в желании воплотить свежие идеи. Коттон учился иллюстрации, и пользуясь своими знаниями в области колористики, он создавал принты для Alexander McQueen и Karl Lagerfeld. А Мдумулла получил более традиционное образование у портного в Сохо. Вместе они умело соединяют принт и крой, создавая необыкновенную, авангардную и привлекающую внимание одежду. Традиционные техники и новые идеи – вот секрет привлекательности самой эффектной мужской одежды. Успешные дизайнеры, вне зависимости
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от стилевой принадлежности, осознают: истинно британской мастерство – это беспроигрышная база. Именно его взяли на вооружение дизайнеры марки Sibling, которая специализируется на вязаной одежде. Помимо неподражаемого качества, их одежда целенаправленно ломает стереотипы. Коллекция осень/ зима 2014 рассказывает о шахтерах, но эти намеки столь прозрачны, что после показа потребовались дополнительные объяснения. Подобное переосмысление традиционного ремесла необычным способом смотрится весьма эффектно. За каждой удобной вещью марки стоит серьезный талант и профессионализм. Самыми скандальными на фестивале London Collections: Men стали показы дизайнеров, которые пробуют на прочность традиционные представления о гендере. Джонатан Андерсон из JW Anderson – как раз из их числа: в своей работе он постоянно расширяет представления о допустимом в этой сфере. В частности, на показе его коллекции осень/зима 2013 модели-мужчины дефилировали в платьях с открытыми плечами, а на презентации серии весна/лето 2015 – в обнажающих талию топах и спадающих с плеч джемперах. Спортивная одежда стала точкой входа для многих актуальных дизайнеров мужской одежды. Такой подход исповедует Кристофер Шэннон: сезон за сезоном он демонстрирует свежий взгляд на экипировку. Взяв за основу традиционные вещи, которые мужчины обычно надевают на тренировку, он концептуально переосмысляет их. Его гибриды брюк и спортивных штанов, органично соединяющие неотъемлемые элементы обоих видов, оказываются в совершенно новой неоднозначной нише. «Лондон всегда был одним из самых стильных городов мира. Но сейчас лондонские мужчины думают о своем гардеробе больше, чем когда-либо, - делится Джонсон Голд, редактор журнала о мужской моде Pause. – Instagram и другие социальные сети транслируют необходимость следить за образом каждый день. Неудивительно,
что мужчины готовы рисковать. В Лондоне мужская мода явно на подъеме, и проект LC:M обеспечивает авангардным коллекциям то признание, которое они заслуживают». Свежий подход к принтам, высочайший уровень мастерства или стирание границ между мужским и женским – что бы они ни предлагали, в Лондоне дизайнеры мужской одежды не боятся выделяться из толпы. Традиционные портные, звезды спортивного стиля, авангардистыинтеллектуалы каждый сезон презентуют свои коллекции на London Collections: Men. Именно благодаря им, это событие стало одним из самых интересных в модном календаре. И за его развитием определенно стоит следить. agiandsam.com, siblinglondon.com, j-w-anderson.com, christophershannon.co.uk 54: In Focus: Manolo Blahnik
В фокусе: Manolo Blahnik
Маноло Бланик создает самые соблазнительные туфли в мире, каждый сезон предлагая новые вариации на тему роскоши и вневременной элегантности, рассказывает Бет Дрюс Имя Маноло Бланик стало синонимом самой желанной обуви в мире. Его творения – это неповторимая роскошь и неизменное очарование. За этим стоят десятилетия практики и постоянного совершенствования, а также особая дизайнерская проницательность, которая обеспечивает обуви Manolo Blahnik отдельную нишу. Бланик родился на Канарских островах, изучал искусство в Париже, намереваясь стать профессиональным дизайнером, а затем переехал в Лондон и начал осваивать мир обуви. «Это было самое подходящее время для создания туфель, поскольку этим занимались немногие», - вспоминает он. В 1970 году его представили легендарному модному редактору Диане Вриланд, и именно ее своевременный совет молодому дизайнеру сформировал его судьбу.
PHOTO: MICHAEL ROBERTS
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«Мне повезло, что госпожа Вриланд направила меня в дизайн обуви. Когда я показал ей свои эскизы, она посоветовала «сосредоточиться на крайностях», рассказывает Бланик. – Поэтому я начал развивать свои идеи. Многие из моих разработок вдохновляли людей, поскольку ничего подобного никто еще не делал. Например, фрукты и цветы на туфлях». Интерес к экстремальным крайностям, изобретательность, насыщенные и избыточные цвета – все это отличает обувь Manolo Blahnik от конкурентов. В числе самых узнаваемых моделей Бланика – открытые туфли на высоком каблуке с ремешками на лодыжке и носочке. Эта модель приобрела известность в 1990-е: именно тогда об обуви Manolo Blahnik заговорили. Более того, ее стали носить буквально все, включая Принцессу Уэльскую Диану и Анну Винтур. Голливудские звезды Мэрайя Кэри и Дженифер Энистон надевали эту обувь на голые ноги: образ с маленьким черным платьем стал воплощением минимализма 90-х. «Это очень простая обувь, - замечает Бланик. – Они не теряют популярности уже несколько десятилетий, поскольку globalblue.com
демонстрируют женскую ножку в лучшем свете. Всего лишь два кожаных ремешка на ноге!» Каждый сезон дизайнер выпускает новую вариацию своих фирменных сандалий. Например, в коллекции сезона весна/лето 2014 появилась модель Chaos – черные кожаные туфли с открытыми пальцами, закрытой пяткой и застежкой на лодыжке. Это весьма элегантный способ оставить ножку полностью открытой. Бланик до сих пор собственноручно готовит колодки. Он утверждает, что
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женщины ценят простоту и удобство его обуви. По его словам, центральную роль играет дизайн, поэтому он должен быть «креативным и своеобразным»: «Я люблю выдвигать новые идеи. Но качество исполнения тоже имеет значение. Материалы должны быть высочайшего качества, колодка и каблук – идеальными, баланс точным, а отделка – безукоризненной». К сезону весна/лето 2015 дизайнер готовит новую вариацию на эту тему – Coraletta: на этот раз полоски кожи вокруг пальцев и лодыжки украшены маленьким кораллами из смолы. Кораллы стали сквозной темой коллекции Manolo Blahnik этого сезона, поскольку ключевое влияние на нее оказала Сицилия, куда дизайнер отправляется на каникулы. И это не впервые: в 2000 году декором для сабо на каблуке Tortura стали кораллы на тончайших нитях. «Форма и образ туфель остаются неизменными, но такая отделка всегда добавляет нечто особенное. Кораллы наиболее точно выражают мое видение, и конечно, мы используем искусственные, - размышляет Бланик о Coraletta. – Ловля кораллов составляет огромную часть сицилийской культуры. Для меня они ассоциируются с Клаудией Кардинале. Очень сложно отыскать более яркую икону стиля». Сицилийская актриса Кардинале обрела славу в 1960-70-е. В кинематографе она создавала чувственные средиземноморские образы, которые органично перекликаются с Manolo Blahnik. «Это одна из моих любимых актрис: ее итальянская красота не подвластна времени, - восхищается Бланик. – Она снималась в фильме Лукино Висконти Il Gattopardo («Леопард»), который я посмотрел, наверное, сотню раз». Клаудиа Кардинале, а также Софи Лорен и Пас Вега – этих великолепных женщин Бланик называет музами своих творений. И их вдохновение присутствует и в коллаборациях с лондонскими брендами Liberty и Victoria Beckham. Пока модное колесо вращается, Manolo Blahnik будет следовать своей
авторской формуле, уже доказавшей беспроигрышность: каждая пара его туфель – это прекрасное сочетание технологичной точности и вневременной красоты. manoloblahnik.com 60: Building An Empire
Как построить империю Ювелир Лара Бохинк отправляется покорять сферу интерьерного дизайна. О своих планах и новом направлении творчества она рассказала Франсес Васем 9 часов серого лондонского утра. Лара Бохинк переступает порог Hardy’s тихого кафе в центре столичного района Марилебон. Ее появление эффектно: серая расклешенная твидовая юбка Alexander Wang, серый жакет Julien Macdonald из мягкой кожи и туфли на высоких каблуках ее собственного бренда, в которых вряд ли смогли вышагивать простые смертные. На запястьях и пальцах – ее же украшения, а на плечах – винтажная меховая накидка. «Я бы охарактеризовала свой стиль так: Рейчел из фильма «Бегущий по лезвию» отправляет в Гластонбери», - размышляет Бохинк. Как и другие дизайнеры, для которых элегантность не требует дополнительных усилий (например, Роксанда Илинчич), Лара Бохинк прекрасно понимает, что сама стала витриной для своего бренда. Современное переосмысление шика 1940-х помогло ей завоевать статус востребованной персоны в лондонском светском обществе сразу после открытия бренда в 1997 году. Но креативность – не единственный ее конек: у Бохинк прекрасно развито стратегическое деловое мышление. В индустрии, где новые дизайнеры обычно горят ярко, но недолго, этот дизайнер успешно развивает свое дело. За прошедшие годы она прочно вошла в стильный лондонский пул, наряду с Джайлсом Диконом, Прином и Эрдемом. Лара Бохинк живет в Марилебоне с мужем Беном и шестилетней дочерью Коко. Ее студия расположена в Shoreditch – стильном квартале Ист-Энда. В 1994 году она
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переехала в Лондон и окончила магистратуру по ювелирному делу и обработке металлов в Королевском колледже искусств. «Британцы открыты новым идеям», - отмечает она. На творчество дизайнера очень повлияли 1970-е – время ее детства: «Я выросла в Словении. Там процветал брутализм – это модернистская, почти космическая архитектура, символизирующая новый мир коммунистических стран. Гимнастика и синхронное плавание также занимали особое место». Бохинк работает с золотом и серебром, а также более простыми металлами – латунью и медью, которые сочетает с драгоценными и полудрагоценными камнями. Согласно недавнему исследованию Key Note, ювелирная индустрия Великобритании оценивается в сумму более 5 миллиардов фунтов. Лара Бохинк входит в число ключевых игроков на этом рынке. Помимо украшений, она выпускает шарфы и сумки из мягкой телячьей и змеиной кожи приглушенных оттенков и с ювелирными застежками. globalblue.com
Ее коллекция сезона весна/лето 2015 называется Eye («Глаз»): «Около года меня занимала тема вечных образов. Этот древний глаз появлялся на протяжении всей истории», - объясняет Бохинк. Ее привлекает образ будущего, который воссоздается в фильмах «Космическая одиссея», «Метрополис», «Солярис» и «Бегущий по лезвию», и это также находит отражение в ее работах. Новое интерьерное направление Бохинк органично связывает с ювелирным: «Украшения – предметы для тела, а мебель – для дома». Стол Solaris Kinetic, который она разработала в 2014 году для выставки Handmade журнала Wallpaper magazine, теперь уходит в производство. «Идея этого стола появилась под воздействием движения планет», - комментирует дизайнер. Однажды ей захотелось создавать крупные вещи, которые бы не ограничивались размерами и стоимостью, как это бывает с украшениями. Так появился стол из четырех сложенных друг на друга мраморных плит с латунной отделкой, при этом каждый каменный слой
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передвигается одним прикосновением. Недавно Бохинк разработала серию подсвечников London Collection – для шведского дизайн-бюро Skultuna. Темами для них стали движение птичьего крыла и стремительное японские шоссе. Для создания утонченных узоров дизайнер использовала ювелирные технологии - в частности, фототравление кислотой: узор сначала печатается на листе металла, а после обработки по трафарету на изделии остаются тонкие линии. В обозримом будущем Бохинк закончит еще одну линию для Skultuna – на этот раз настольных аксессуаров. В 2012 году Лара Бохинк получила Орден Британской империи за вклад в модную индустрию. По сути, кавалер самого почетного ордена Великобритании строит собственную империю – мировой лайфстайл-бренд. Интересно, собирается ли дизайнер передать ее по наследству: «Нужно много времени, чтобы создать крупный бренд, - размышляет Бохинк. – Считается, что первое поколение строит, второе развивает, а третье пожинает плоды. Или разрушает все, - она ненадолго замолкает, улыбаясь. - Я спросила дочь, хочет ли она унаследовать мое дело. Она ответила что-то в духе: «Да, окей». Но ей всего шесть – она еще может стать, кем захочет». Похоже, что и Лара Бохинк тоже может. larabohinc.com 92: When you shop the world, shop tax free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.
1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохораните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум £30 и сэкономьте до 11% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. 美文翻译
48: Here Come The Boys 男士当道 伦敦男装周的耀眼明星：男性设计师们正带领英国 男装设计步入新纪元，Katie Ramsingh 报道 长久以来，男士在伦敦购买服装只有两种基本选择： 要么是萨维尔街的西服，以英国品质最上乘面料打 造的定制正装造型，或是脱胎于伦敦街头风格运动 服的都市休闲造型。虽说这两种风格都各有千秋， 在伦敦男装周上我们见到了最为精彩的造型：男性 们终于找到了一条折中的道路。 一群新近涌现的男装设计师开始进入人们的视 野，他们与大牌时装屋或主流设计院校毕业生泾渭 分明，因挑战摩登男装界限的共同夙愿而团结一心。 英国女装设计师们一直享有驰骋于奇思妙想中的自 由，他们或是讽刺或是颠覆传统，亦可在脑中以任何 女性为设计原型，然而男装设计师们仅在近十年来 才开始拥有同样的特权。 英国品牌Agi & Sam敢于以印花挑战男装设 计边界。当许多男装设计师只会以印花追忆过往 年代——这里些许70年代元素、那里少许60年代 影响——这对设计组合彻底颠覆了过往男装设计 师们对于印花的既定认知。品牌的幕后推手Agi Mdumulla与Sam Cotton同时使用手绘与数码印
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设计师们是那些通过探索性别角色来挑战常规的 人。譬如JW Anderson品牌的设计师 Jonathan Anderson，至始至终都在作品中努力突破性别边 界的局限。以Anderson的2013年秋冬系列为例，秀 场上可见到穿着紧身胸衣式连衣裙的男模特，他的 2015年春夏系列则让男人们身着无遮掩的露肚装或 露肩毛衣走秀。 运动服为诸多当代男装设计师提供了绝好的 出发点：Christopher Shannon就是其中一员， 一季又一季，他为人们带来耳目一新的运动服设 计。Shannon将男人们在竞技场上的衣着，改造成 面目全新的概念性服饰。他设计的连体运动裤装最 能脱颖而出，其具备传统运动服的所有基本元素， 并加入深思熟虑的改良，使其充满话题性与创意。 “伦敦向来是全球最时尚的城市之一，但前所未 有的是，如今伦敦的男性们开始反思自己的造型， ” 男装杂志Pause的编辑Johnson Gold表示。 “多亏 Instagram等社交媒体上涌现的晒‘每日着装’的潮 流，男性们自然而然地变得更敢穿了。伦敦男装正 冉冉升起，伦敦男装周则给与创新男装实至名归的 认可。” 无论是在印花设计上推陈出新，在创新工艺上 锐意进取，亦或是模糊女性与男性之间的界线，伦敦 的男装设计师们从不畏惧在人群中脱颖而出。从传 统裁缝师与运动服饰新星到创意巨匠，风格多元的 设计师们纷纷在伦敦男装周上发布作品：每一季这 些男性设计师都让这项活动成为时尚日历中最激动 人心的日子。这绝对是不容错过的盛事。
花，这也反过来激励他们更关注服装的剪裁。 Agi & Sam堪称当代英国男装设计师中结 合新、老技术打造新颖单品的典范。Cotton原 本学习插画，之后将自己的色彩理论知识发挥到 Alexander McQueen与Karl Lagerfeld等品牌的 印花设计中。而Mdumulla则在一间Soho地区的裁 缝店中接受过更为传统的训练。通过将印花与正装 剪裁融入别出心裁、引人入胜的作品中，他们二人共 同创造出一系列新颖别致、激动人心的设计。 当代伦敦男装最令人印象深刻的一点，就是其同 时展现了传统工艺与创新才华。那些最为成功的设 计师，无论是何种特定风格，都意识到英国传统工 艺极为关键——专业针织品牌Sibling的设计师们 也深谙这点。该品牌欢快且色彩纷呈的系列包括杰 出的手工编织，以及颠覆人们对针织固有印象的作 品。Sibling的2014秋冬系列灵感来自于矿工，设计 师们对针织的运用巧妙且隐蔽，人们需要浏览秀场 笔记来领悟其精妙。以这样的颠覆性方式运用传统 工艺的手法令人耳目一新并值得嘉许。这些实穿性 极强的作品背后，是伟大的创意与工艺。 在伦敦男装周T台上最擅长抢占头条新闻的
agiandsam.com, siblinglondon.com, j-w-anderson.com, christophershannon.co.uk 54: In Focus: Manolo Blahnik 聚焦: Manolo Blahnik
PHOTO: © CHRISTOPHER DADEY
Manolo Blahnik曾创造出一系列全世界最迷人的 鞋款，并在每一季为人们带来奢华、魅惑、经典的作 品。Beth Druce报道
globalblue.com
Manolo Blahnik是全球最炙手可热与最奢华鞋履 的代名词。Blahnik的创作具有无与伦比的魅力与 经久不衰的吸引力，这归功于他几十年来不断磨练 自己的制鞋技艺与设计技巧，确保自己的作品永远 自成一派。 出生于加那利群岛的Blahnik曾在巴黎学习艺 术，并打算成为一名布景设计师，之后他搬到伦敦， 开始探索鞋的世界。 “当时是设计鞋履的绝佳时机， 因为还没有多少人在从事这行， ”他回忆道。在1970 年，他被介绍给传奇时装编辑Diana Vreeland； 她对年轻的Blahnik的及时建议改变了他未来的 命运。
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“我非常幸运被Vreeland女士钦点设计鞋 履，见过我的手稿后她建议我‘专注于极致的设计’ ， ”Blahnik 表示。 “于是我开始构建自己的理念，其 中许多设计让人们兴奋，因为是他们前所未见的；在 鞋子上运用花卉与水果（打个比方）。”正是这种对
的Tortura，就是一款以悬挂在细线上的珊瑚为装 饰的高跟拖鞋。 “这款鞋履的造型与设计是永不过时 的，然而珊瑚则加入了一些特别的、有我个人特色的 东西——当然我们用的是树脂， ”Blahnik 这样点评 新一季的Coraletta鞋款。 “珊瑚捕捞是西西里文化 的重要部分。每当我想到珊瑚我都会想到Claudia Cardinale，谁还能比她更具标志性？” Cardinale是活跃于1960与1970年代的西西里 女演员，拥有性感的、地中海式的外貌，与Manolo Blahnik的魅力鞋履交相辉映。 “她是永远的意大利 美人，也是我至始至终最爱的女演员之一， ”Blahnik 表示。 “她出演过我非常喜爱的[Luchino] Visconti 执导的影片《豹》（Il Gattopardo），我已经看过几 百次了。” Cardinale同索菲亚·罗兰及Paz Vega一 起，被Blahnik引为设计灵感缪斯，设计师最近还与 伦敦品牌Liberty及维多利亚·贝克汉姆进行合作。 只要时尚的车轮继续转动，Manolo Blahnik的 凉鞋就会继续遵循他的原创制胜设计法宝：精准与 美感的迷人组合。
manoloblahnik.com 于极致的专注，对于鞋型创造性的强调，以及对丰 富艳丽色调的运用，让Manolo Blahnik从设计竞争 中脱颖而出。” Blahnik的招牌设计包括贯穿脚踝与脚趾的绑 带高跟凉鞋。这个款式在1990年代中期大获成功， 当时这位设计师名噪一时，其作品被威尔士王妃戴 安娜与Anna Wintour等名流穿着。对好莱坞明星 Mariah Carey与Jennifer Aniston而言，裸腿穿着 绑带凉鞋并搭配小黑裙，是表现90年代极简主义酷 感的最佳造型。 “这是一款非常简单的系带凉鞋， ”Blahnik指 出。 “我已经做了几十年了，他们总是非常好卖因为 实在太能衬托穿着者了。仅仅是脚上的两条绑带。” 每一季都会推出这款鞋履的更新版本；2014年春夏 季的Chaos鞋是一款黑色漆皮露趾凉鞋，有着封闭 的脚后跟与脚踝绑带设计——优雅简约又能完美 展示足部。 Blahnik时至今日仍在不断延续自己的影响力， 他表示女人们爱他的简约设计，并且他的作品实际 上非常好穿。他的鞋子中最重要的元素，据他解释， 就是设计， “别出心裁的原创设计。我喜欢迸发新想 法。但是做工也非常重要。面料必须是品质最上乘 的、最经久耐穿的，鞋跟必须要完美，平衡性必须绝 佳，最后的完成工序必须无可挑剔。” 在2015年春夏，系带凉鞋设计以Coraletta款 式呈现，脚趾与脚踝上的绑带上装饰着大量的微小 树脂珊瑚。珊瑚是Blahnik品牌2015春夏系列的主 题，灵感来自于设计师经常前往度假的西西里岛。 珊瑚也并非第一次出现在他的作品中；2000年推出
60: Building An Empire 帝国之建立 随着大举进军家居行业，珠宝设计师 Lara Bohinc 似乎准备好要征服室内设计界，她与Frances Wasem分享了自己的计划 在某个昏暗的伦敦早晨九点，Lara Bohinc大步踏 进伦敦Marylebone区核心地带的一间安静小馆子 Hardy’s。这位出生于斯洛文尼亚的设计师的装扮 让人过目不忘，身着灰色粗花呢Alexander Wang 的滑冰短裙，奶油柔灰色的Julien Macdonald皮夹 克与凡人难以驾驭的杀手高跟鞋（她的个人品牌）。 她的手腕与手指上戴满了自己设计的珠宝，一件复 古皮草外套搭在肩头。 “我会将自己的风格形容为《银翼杀手》中的 Rachael来到了Glastonbury音乐节” ，Bohinc表 示。同其他时髦不造作的女性设计师如Roksanda Ilincic一般，她十分清楚自己是品牌的最佳移动 招牌。对于上世纪40年代风尚的摩登演绎，帮助 这位配饰设计师从1997年创立自有品牌起，就成 为伦敦社交界的宠儿，除了绝佳创意，Bohinc极 具策略性的商业头脑也功不可没。在一个新星飞 速蹿升又不断陨落的行业，Bohinc成功让自己的 品牌成为伦敦最酷设计组合的中流砥柱，与Giles Deacon、Preen与Erdem等品牌齐名。 Bohinc和丈夫Ben及6岁的女儿Coco居住在 Marylebone，但在位于伦敦东部前卫Shoreditch 区的工作室中工作。她在1994年搬到伦敦，在皇家
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艺术学院获得了珠宝与金属设计硕士学位。 “英国 人对于新观念非常开放， ”她解释道。她的设计受到 1970年代童年时期的巨大影响。 “我在斯洛文尼亚 长大，那里发生了声势浩大的粗野主义运动，象征 着共产主义国家的新面貌——摩登的、体量巨大的 建筑。那时在我们国家体操也是一件大事，和花样 游泳一样。” Bohinc偏爱使用贵金属如金与银，结合黄铜、 铜等朴实金属，镶嵌宝石或半宝石制成首饰。根据 Key Note最近的一项研究，英国珠宝产业目前产 值超过50亿英镑，Bohinc则是这片市场中的重要 成员。 她还生产围巾，并以最柔软的宝石色胎牛皮 与蛇皮制作包袋，全都搭配以珠宝般的搭扣。 她的2015年春/夏珠宝系列被称为Eye（眼） 。 “我对于超越时空的文物的迷恋大概持续了有 一年。眼睛这个元素从古代开始周而复始地出 现， ”Bohinc解释道。设计师表现这主题，就如同 《2001:太空漫游》、 《大都会》、 《飞向太空》与《 银翼杀手》等科幻影片对于未来的演绎，全部见诸 于她的作品中。 设计师将珠宝设计与最新进入的家居领域视 为相互关联的。 “珠宝是身体的装饰物，如同家具是 房间的装饰物， ”她表示。设计师为Wallpaper杂志 2014年手工展设计的Solaris Kinetic桌，已经投入 生产。 “Solaris Kinetic桌的灵感来源于行星的运 动， ”Bohinc解释道。有一段时间，她曾经想要创作 出不像珠宝那样受到尺寸或成本限制的大作品。这 一想法的结晶就是黄铜石桌，由四块大理石圆环交 叠而成，触碰时可以移动。 globalblue.com
近日她还为瑞典室内设计公司Skultuna推出了 烛台系列“伦敦” （London Collection）。烛台的图 案与设计，源于鸟类翅膀的运动与日本的公路，其中 运用到的珠宝工艺有光刻法，一种使用酸来腐蚀印 制在金属板上纹路的手法。Bohic为Skultuna推出 的书桌配饰系列亦在酝酿之中。 由于对时尚产业的杰出贡献，设计师在2012年 被授予MBE勋章。这位大英帝国最优秀勋章的获 得者，是否有计划建立起自己的全球生活方式品牌 帝国，并将其传给自己的女儿呢？ “孕育大品牌需要 很长时间， ”Bohinc斟酌到。 “人们都说第一代打下 根基，第二代助其成长，第三代收获果实，或摧毁一 切。”她笑道。 “我问女儿是否想要继承事业，她说， “ 好吧，没问题。”但她只有六岁——她仍旧可以成为 想要成为的任何人。”如此看来，Lara Bohinc应该 可以建立起自己的帝国。 larabohinc.com
92: When you shop the world, shop tax free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联
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تعيش Bohincف Maryleboneمع زوجها Benوابنتها ست سنوات وتعمل ف استوديو ف الطرف Cocoالبالغة ّ الشقي من .Shoreditchانتقلت إل لندن سنة 1994لتتابع دراستها العليا ف الجوهرات والعادن ف Royal College .of Artتقول ف هذا الصدد" :البيطانيّون منفتحون ج ّدا ً إل الفكار الجديدة" .تتأث ّر تصاميمها إل ح ّد كبي بطفولتها ف خلل السبعينات" .ترعرعت ف سلوفينيا حي £كان هناك حركة هندسيّة عصيّة شبه فضائيّة ،مثّلت عال البلدان الشيوعيّة الجديد .كم كان للجمباز والسباحة اليقاعيّة أهميّة كبية". تستخدم Bohnicمعادن ثينة مثل الذهب والفضّ ة إل جانب معادن ترابيّة مثل النحاس الصفر والحمر وتدمجهم مع أحجار كرية وشبه كرية .بحسب دراسة قامت بها شكة Key Noteالبحثيّة ،قُدّر حجم قطاع الجوهرات ف الملكة التّحدة اليوم بخمس مليارات جنيه استليني ،وتشكّل Bohincلعباً أساسيّاً ف السوق .كم تبتكر أوشحة وحقائب مصنوعة من أنعم جلود العجول والثعابي بلون الجواهر ،مز ّودة بشابك شبيهة بالجوهرات. تحمل مجموعة الجوهرات التي ص ّممتها لربيع/صيف 2015 إسم .The Eyeتعلّق Bohincقائلة" :استحوذت فكرة التصاميم التي ل تفنى عل تفكيي طوال عامٍ تقريباً .وقد استُخدمت العي القدية عب التاريخ" .كم تأث ّر عمل الص ّممة بالفلم التي ترسم الستقبل من خلل التصميم مثل :2001 A Space Odysseyو Metropolisو SolarisوBlade .Runnerترى الص ّممة ترابطاً بي مجوهراتها ودخولها مؤ ّخرا ً عال الثاث .تقول" :الجوهرات قط ٌع تزيّن الجسم والثاث قط ٌع تزيّن النزل" .ص ّممت Bohincطاولة Solaris Kinetic لعرض Handmadeمن تنظيم مجلّة Wallpaperللعام 2014وهي اليوم قيد النتاج .تشح Bohincقائلة" :استوحيت طاولة Solaris Kineticمن حركة الكواكب" .ورغبت ف فتة ما ،ابتكار قطع أكب من دون التقيّد بالحجم والكلفة ،كم هو الحال ف الجوهرات .فابتكرت طاولة النحاس الصفر والحجر الصنوعة من أربع دوائر من الرخام مرصوفة فوق بعضها البعض، تتح ّرك عند اللّمس. كم ابتكرت مؤ ّخرا ً خ ّط London Collectionالخاص بالشمعدانات لشكة التصميم الداخل السويديّة .Skultuna نقوش الشمعدانات هي عبارة عن تصاميم مستوحاة من حركة جناح العصفور وأوتوستادات اليابان ،وتعتمد عل تقنيّات صناعة الجوهرات مثل التنميش ،حي £يُستخدم الحمض ليُهري خطوطاً رفيعة مطبوعة عل ورقة معدنيّة .كم تعمل Bohincعل خط من أكسسوارات الكتب لشكة .Skultuna حازت الص ّممة سنة 2012عل رتبة فائقة المتياز ضمن المباطوريّة البيطانيّة لنجازاتها ف مجال الزياء .هل هذه خاصة بها وتأت بشكل علمة تجاريّة عاليّة ستو ّرثها المباطوريّة ّ إل ابنتها؟ تجيب " :Bohincيستغرق بناء علمة تجاريّة كبية يؤسس والثال£ وقتاً طويلً .يُقال إ ّن الجيل ال ّول يبني والثان ّ يحصد ...أو يد ّمر كل شء ".تضحك" .سألت إبنتي إن كانت ترغب بأن ترث الشكة فردّت باليجاب ،لكّنها ما زالت ف السادسة من العمر ويكنها أن تكون من تشاء ".ويبدو أنّه كذلك يكن Lara .Bohinc larabohinc.com
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تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من 270,000متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال. فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون كل سنة؟ ما دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق الخاص أينم تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة ّ بغلوبل بلو Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت. .2أطلب ف طريق العودة إل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد الخاصة بنا. مكاتب الستداد ّ للتّصال:
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استحسان الكثي من الناس إذ ل تكن تشبه أي شء اعتادوه من قبل’ كالفواكه والزهار عل الحذية (مثلً) ".فالتكيز عل الحدود القصوى واعتمد الشكال البتكرة واللوان الغنيّة الصارخة ميّزت تصاميم Manolo Blahnikعن غيه. كعب عا ٍل تشمل التصاميم التي تيّز بها Blahnikصندلً ذا ٍ
PHOTO: MICHAEL ROBERTS
لربيع/صيف ،2015مستوحاة من جزيرة صقلّية حيث أمض الص ّمم عدّة ُعطل .ليست ال ّرة الول التي يظهر فيها الرجان ف مجموعاته’ أطلق سنة 2000تصميم Torturaوهو حذاء مقفل من الخلف ومزخرف بقطع من الرجان متدلّية من خيطان رفيعة ومز ّود بكعب .يقول Blahnikعن تصميم Coraletta للموسم الجديد" :ل يفنى شكل الحذاء وتصميمه مع الوقت، ويعب عن شخصيّتي إل ح ّد كبي لكن يضيف الرجان لس ًة مميّزة ّ – ل شك أنّنها نستخدم الرزين .يشكّل صيد الرجان جزءا ً كبيا ً من ثقافة صقلّية .كلّم أفكّر بالرجان ،تطرأ عل بال Claudia ،Cardinaleفمن أجدر منها بتمثيله؟" إنّها ممثّلة من صقلّية ،سطع نجمها ف الستّينات والسبعينات متوسطيّة مغرية تك ّمل تألّق أحذية Manolo وتتمتّع بإطللة ّ Blahnikبامتياز .يقول Blahnikف هذا الصدد" :إنّها جميلة إيطاليّة خالدة وإحدى أع ّز المثّلت عل قلبي عل الطلق. مثّلت ف الفيلم الرائع Il Gattopardoللمخرج Luchino صح Blahnikأ ّن Viscontiوقد شاهدته مئات ال ّراتّ ". مجموعة من النساء مثل CardinaleوSophia Loren و Paz Vegaقد ألهمت بعض تصاميمه التي تعاون فيها مع علمتي من لندن وهم Libertyو.Victoria Beckham طالا أ ّن عجلة الوضة تدور ،ستبقى صنادل Manolo دمج متألّق بي Blahnikتتّبع معادلة تصميمه الصل الناجحةٌ : الدقّة والجمل. manoloblahnik.com Building An Empire: 60
بناء امباطوريّة
وشيطتي’ واحدة حول الكاحل وأخرى فوق الصابع .اشتهر التصميم ف منتصف التسعينات وهي الفتة التي لقت فيها أحذية الص ّمم رواجاً وانتعلتها سيّدات أمثال Dianaأمية ويلز و .Anna Wintourأ ّما بالنسبة إل نجمت هوليوود عل سبيل Mariah Careyو ،Jennifer Anistonفشكّل انتعال الصندل ذي الشيطتي مع ساقي مكشوفي وفستان أسود قصي، رمز السلوب البسيط النيق ف التسعينات. يقول " :Blahnikكان صندلً بسيطاً ج ّدا ً مز ّودا ً بشيطتي. ابتكرت هذه الصنادل لعقود وكانت تلقى دوماً رواجاً واسعاً لا تتمتّع به من إثارة .مج ّرد شيطتي عرض القدم ".تُجرى تعديلت كل موسم’ كان حذاء Chaosلربيع/صيف جديدة عل التصميم ّ اللمع، 2014عبارة عن صندل مكشوف الصابع من الجلد السود ّ مقفل من الخلف ومز ّود بشيطة حول الحاكل ،بفضل بساطته النيقة ،تبقى القدم بارزة. يقول Blahnikالذي ما زال يصنع قوالب أحذيته بنفسه ،إ ّن تحب بساطة تصاميمه وسهولة انتعالها .يشح أ ّن العنص الرأة ّ اله ّم ف أحذيته هو التصميم الذي يجب أن يكون "مبتكرا ً وفريدا ً أحب ابتداع أفكار جديدة .لك ّن التنفيذ مه ّم أيضاً. من نوعهّ . عل القمشة أن تكون من أجود نوعيّة والقالب والكعب مثاليّي والتوازن صحيحاً والتفاصيل دقيقة". لربيع/صيف ،2015اتّخذ تصميم الصندل الز ّود بشيطتي شكل Coralettaحيث ُزيّنت الشيطتي بأحجار صغية من الرزين الرجان .والرجان هو الفكرة الساسيّة لجموعة Blahnik
تبدو مص ّممة الجوهرات Lara Bohincجاهزة لقتحام عال بتوسعها إل مجال مستلزمات النزل .تطلع التصميم الداخل ّ Frances Wasemعن خطّطها إنّها الساعة التاسعة من صباح يوم لندن ضباب ،تدخل Lara Bohincمطعم Hardy’sالهادئ ف قلب منطقة Maryleboneف لندن .تلفت الص ّممة السلوفينيّة النظار وقد ارتدت ت ّنورة واسعة قصية من التويد الرمادي من Alexander Wangوستة جلديّة رماديّة ناعمة من Julien Macdonald وكعباً رفيعاً عالياً (من علمتها التجاريّة) يعيق طريق أي شخص أقل شأناً .تزيّن مجوهرات من تصميمها معصميها وأصابعها ّ وتغطّي كتفيها ستة من الجلد العريق. تقول " :Bohincأسلوب أشبه بشخصيّة Rachaelف فيلم Blade Runnerعندما تق ّرر أن تذهب إل مهرجان Glastonburyللموسيقى" .عل غرار مص ّممت أخريات متألّقات بعفويّة مثل ،Roksanda Ilincicتدرك أنّها تجسيد نقّال لعلمتها .بفضل اللّمسة العصيّة التي أضافتها إل سحر الربعينات ،باتت مص ّممة الكسسوارات عزيزة عل قلب الوسط الجتمعي ف لندن عندما أطلقت علمتها سنة .1997وإل جانب البداع ،تتمتّع Bohincبعقل تجاري استاتيجي .ف قطا ٍع غالباً ما يلمع فيه إسم مص ّممي جدد لكن سعان ما ينطفئ، نجحت Bohincف تطوير عملها لتصبح عضوا ً ثابتاً ف مجموعة الص ّممي البتكرين ف لندن التي تشمل أمثال Giles Deacon و Preenو.Erdem globalblue.com
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القواعد الراسخة باستكشاف الدوار الجندريّة .يسعى مص ّممون ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية عل سبيل Jonathan Andersonلدى علمة JW Andersonإل توسيع حدود الجندر ف أعملهم .شملت Here Come The Boys: 48 مجموعة Andersonلخريف/شتاء 2014مثلً عارض أزياء ها هم الشبّان النصة ف ف فساتي من دون أكمم ف حي ظهر الرجال عل ّ عرض مجموعة ربيع/صيف 2015مكشوف البطون أو مرتدين نجوم London Collections: Menمن ر ّواد الهادفي إل حقبة جديدة ف مجال تصميم اللبس الرجاليّة البيطانيّة ،تقرير أوفارولت مكشوفة الكتاف. شكّلت اللبس الرياضيّة نقطة انطلق للعديد من مص ّممي Katie Ramsingh اللبس الرجاليّة العاصين’ منهم Christopher Shannon لطالا كان أمام الرجال الذين يشتون ملبسهم من لندن خياران الذي يُعرف بتقديم البدلة الرياضيّة بحلّة جديدة موسمً بعد أساسيّان :بدلت Savile Rowالطللة الرسميّة التي تتض ّمن أرقى الواد البيطانيّة العريقة أو الطللة ال ُدُنيّة بالكامل الك ّونة آخر .بالعادة ،يأخذ Shannonقطعاً ارتداها رجال ف اللعب ويقدّمها بطريقة مفاهيميّة جديدة .تتميّز ساويله الشبه بسوال من ملبس رياضيّة مستوحاة مباش ًة من الشارع .للطللتي بدلة رياضيّة عن غيها باشتملها كافّة عناص اللبس الرياضيّة مميّزات ،لكن وأخيا ً يُقدّم السلوب الوسطي ف أبرز الطللت التقليديّة إل جانب إضافات ُمختارة بعناية ترفعها إل مرتبة أكث التي تُعرض ف .London Collections: Men برزت مؤ ّخرا ً سللة جديدة من مص ّممي اللبس الرجاليّة ،مستقلّة جدليّة وابتكارا ً. يقول ،Johnson Goldمح ّرر مجلّة اللبس الرجاليّة :Pause عن دور الزياء الكُبى ومدارس التصميم السائدة وو ّحدتها رغبة "لطالا كانت لندن إحدى أكث الدن تألّقاً ف العال ولكن اليوم مشتكة بتوسيع حدود ملبس الرجال العصيّة .ف حي تتّع أي ٍ وقت مض ،يعي رجال لندن إطللتهم اهتمماً كبيا ً. مص ّممو الزياء النسائيّة بحريّة إطلق العنان لنفسهم ف عال وأكث من ّ بفضل ثقافة "لباس اليوم" ف وسائل التواصل الجتمعي مثل وكل امرأة تخطر عل الغرابة والهجاء والنقلب والتصميم لي ّ بالهم ،ل يُعط مص ّممو الزياء الرجاليّة المتياز نفسه إل ف العقد ،Instagramمن الطبيعي أن يجازف الرجال أكث من العادة. يزدهر مجال اللبس الرجاليّة ف لندن واليوم تعطي علمة LC: الاض. Mاللبس الرجاليّة البتكرة التقدير الذي تستحقّه". ل تخش العلمة البيطانيّة Agi & Samبتوسيع الحدود من مهم فعل مص ّممو اللبس الرجاليّة ف لندن حاليّاً ،إن كانوا خلل النقوش .ف الوقت الذي يستخدم الكثي من مص ّممي يص ّممون النقوش بطريقة جديدة أو يبتدعون حرفاً مبتكرة أو اللبس الرجاليّة النقوش ليشيوا إل حقبات آنفة’ نثة من جلد يلغون الخطوط الفاصلة بي النوثة والذكوريّة ،فهم ل يخشون الفعى بأسلوب السبعينات هنا أو نفحة من زركشة الستّينات التميّز عن الباقي .من الخيّاطي التقليديّي ونجوم اللبس هناك ،يقلب هذا الثنائ الطريقة التقليديّة التي ينظر فيها مؤسسا الرياضيّة إل البدعي الثقّفي ،ساعدت مجموعة الص ّممي الص ّممون إل النقوش رأساً عل عقب .يستخدم الص ّممن ّ التن ّوعة التي تعرض ف London Collections: Menكل العلمة Agi Mdumullaو Sam Cottonنقوشاً مرسومة سنة عل جعل الحدث من أكث السابيع إثارة عل رزنامة الزياء. يدويّاً وأخرى رقميّة تُلهم تصاميمهم الدقيقة. تثّل Agi & Samمثا ًل ممتازا ً عن طريقة دمج مص ّممي اللبس ل ّ شك أنّه جدير بالشاهدة. ،agiandsam.com ،siblinglondon.com الرجاليّة البيطانيّي العصيّي التقنيّات القدية بالجديدة لبتكار j-w-anderson.com ،christophershannon.co.uk قطع حديثة تاماً .درس Cottonالرسم قبل استخدام معرفته بنظريّة اللوان لتصميم نقوش لـ Alexander McQueen و Karl Lagerfeldف حي تلقّى Mdumullaتدريباً تقليديّاً In Focus: Manolo Blahnik: 54 تحت الجهر Manolo Blahnik: لدى خيّاط ف شارع .Sohoوقدّم الثنائ تصاميم جديدة مثية والقصات ف قطع أخّاذة مبتكرة. للهتمم تخلط بي النقوش ّ تحظى ملبس الرجال العصيّة ف لندن بأعل مستويات العجاب يبتكر Manolo Blahnikبعض أجمل الحذية ف العال ،موفّرا ً كل موسم ،تقرير Beth Druce فخام ًة وسحرا ً وتألّقاً دائاً ّ عندما تلجأ إل تقنيّات تقليديّة ومواهب جديدة .ويدرك أنجح يقتن إسم Manolo Blahnikببعض أكث الحذية شهر ًة بغض النظر عن أسلوبهم الخاص ،أهميّة الهارة الص ّمميّ ، وفخام ًة ف العال .توفّر ابتكارات Blahnikسحرا ً ل مثيل له البيطانيّة ،وهو أم ٌر واضح تاماً بالنسبة إل الص ّممي لدى خبي وتألّقاً دائاً نتيجة ِحرفة صقلها عب عقود ومهارات تصميم تضمن اللبس الحبوكة .Siblingتعكس مجموعات العلمة الرحة فرادة أعمله. والل ّونة مستوى عا ٍل من الحياكة الحرفيّة وتشمل قطعاً تناقض ُولد Blahnikف جزر الكناري ودرس الفنون ف باريس بِنيّة أن عمل الناجم مجموعة Siblingلخريف/ الناط السائدة .ألهم ّ شتاء 2014لكن نتيجة إتقان الص ّمم استخدام اللبس الحبوكة ،يصبح مص ّممً مسحيّاً ،قبل أن ينتقل إل لندن ويبدأ استكشاف كانت تلميحاتها مبهمة وكان ل ب ّد من تقديم شح خلل العرض .عال الحذية .يتذكّر قائلً" :كانت فتة جيّدة ج ّدا ً لتصميم الحذية نسب ًة إل ندرتها" .تع ّرف سنة 1970إل الحرِرة السطوريّة الحقيقة أ ّن استخدام الحرفة التقليديّة بهذه الطريقة الثوريّة أم ٌر Diana Vreelandوقد رسمت نصائحها مستقبله .يقول ف مبتكر و ُمجزي ،يُنتج قطعاً قابلة للرتداء مع ّززة بوهبة وتقنيّة باهرة. هذا الصدد" :من حسن حظّي أن و ّجهتني السيّدة Vreeland منصات عرض إل تصميم الحذية وقد نصحتني "بالتكيز عل الحدود القصوى" من أعظم الص ّممي الذين قدّموا أعملهم عل ّ London Collections: Menهم أولئك الذين يتحدّون بعد أن رأت رسومات .فشعت بتنفيذ أفكاري التي لقت
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AQUASCUTUM Over the course of its 164-year history, Aquascutum has grown from a small Piccadilly tailoring shop into a world-renowned emblem of British style. There have been many milestones along the way, from creating and patenting the frst waterproof textile in 1853 to the company’s frst royal warrant, awarded in 1897. The name Aquascutum is derived from the Latin words aqua (water) and scutum (shield), an apt acknowledgement of its innovations in outerwear. The brand initially supplied the Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 92
British army with trench coats and these went on to become a Hollywood favourite – silver screen icons such as Cary Grant (above) and Sophia Loren were seen wearing Aquascutum trench coats. In recent times, the brand has focused on returning to its tailoring roots with a revival of its made-to-measure service, available at Aquascutum’s Great Marlborough Street and Jermyn Street stores. th Aquascutum, 24 Great Marlborough Street, London W1F 7HU, +44 (0)20 3096 1864, aquascutum.com * for map go to page 81
www.fenwick.co.uk FenwickofBondStreet
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