LONDON | ЛОНДОН | 伦敦 | لندن
LONDON Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2016
Page 42 FRAGRANT DELIGHTS: discover the top London bespoke perfumers who will create an individual scent just for you
The watch
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Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this sophisticated European fashion and design hub. London has much to ofer, as our guide on page 68 reveals. Readers who love fragrance will enjoy our feature on London’s bespoke perfumers (page 42), and in this issue we also meet jewellery designer Jessica McCormack (page 48) and discover some of the striking new fagships in Mayfair’s prestigious Mount Street area (page 54). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14% when shopping in the UK. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in London. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
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CONTRIBUTORS
Beth Druce Fashion and luxury writer Beth Druce also works as a consultant for a variety of luxury fashion companies. After gaining an MA from Central Saint Martins in London, she began her career at GQ magazine. globalblue.com
Harriet Quick Fashion journalist Harriet Quick has held senior roles at the Guardian newspaper and British Vogue, where she was the title’s fashion features director for over a decade. She has interviewed many of the world’s biggest fashion stars.
Pietari Posti Pietari Posti’s elegant, delicate style made him the perfect illustrator for the cover of this season’s London Luxury edition of SHOP. Inspired by our feature on bespoke perfumes on page 42, it shows a woman who has been transformed into a beautiful perfume bottle. His exquisite artwork has previously been commissioned by American Express, Random House, the New York Times, the Guardian newspaper and British Airways, among others, and he is also a longtime contributor to SHOP. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
Frances Wasem Frances Wasem is a contributing editor at Harper’s Bazaar magazine, and has also written for Stella magazine and the Times. She has interviewed fashion icons from Christian Louboutin to corset-maker Mr Pearl.
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Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue
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CONTENTS Products
Features
18
42
20
26
Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from London this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of the best dressed during London Fashion Week
48
News 30 32
40
Shop Window One store not to be missed in London News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products In Store … … with John and Anne-Marie Harrison, designers of heritage British brand Purdey’s fashion line, in the company’s historical South Audley Street headquarters
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Cover story: Scent Especially For You London’s top perfumers offer bespoke services to their most discerning clients. Frances Wasem reveals the names to know Diamonds Are Forever Jessica McCormack’s unconventionally informal approach to high jewellery makes her diamond-based designs accessible, emotive and highly covetable, says Beth Druce Mayfair Marvels A wave of new flagships in the Mount Street area showcases the work of some highly desirable designers. Harriet Quick takes a tour of this must-visit luxury destination
PHOTO: BETH DRUCE
p.48
Above: Jessica McCormack flagship store
WHAT’S THE BUZZ? THE FINE JEWELLERY ROOM
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CONTENTS
p.60
Experience 60
64
Raising The Bar London’s top cocktails are often found in drinking dens tucked away in basements or on back streets, writes Theresa Harold Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels
Essentials 86
How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
Guide
Translations
68
87 92 97
82
Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of London My City Artist Lucy Dickens, great-greatgranddaughter of Charles Dickens, shares her London recommendations
Русский Перевод
美文翻译
Souvenir 98
The essential item to bring home
ENGLISH | Р УС С К И Й | 中 文
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18 | P RO D U C T S
CHECK OUT
RAISING A SMILE A big shopper-style bag is an essential accessory, and this example from Anya Hindmarch is not only practical but also interesting and playful, with colourful stripes and an embossed perforated smiley face. The sturdy leather construction keeps all your belongings safe, as well as being stylish. Anya Hindmarch reinvents everyday styles with playful twists in textures and designs. The sporty 80s look of the current spring/summer Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86
2016 collection, Apophenia, recreates classic British styles and prints, and also continues Hindmarch’s popular Sticker Shop. Last season the brand introduced womenswear to its collection and for spring/summer 2016 neoprene and leather sweatshirts in graphic and geometric prints and popping colours are instant hits. fm Anya Hindmarch Maxi Featherweight Ebury bag, £1,395, Anya Hindmarch, 118 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EW, +44 (0)20 7493 1628, anyahindmarch.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73
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SUMMER NIGHTS
3
Discover the perfect outfit for those long, warm evenings in the city 1
2
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1. De Grisogono earrings, £74,500, De Grisogono, 14A New Bond Street, London W1S 3SX, +44 (0)20 7499 2225, degrisogono.com
3. Coach bag, £375, Coach, 41-42 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RY, +44 (0)20 3141 8901, coach.com
2. 7 For All Mankind jeans, £225, 7 For All Mankind, 225 Regent Street, London W1B 2ED, +44 (0)20 7495 3244, 7forallmankind.com
4. Bally sandals, £575, Bally, 45-46 New Bond Street, London W1S 1EN, +44 (0)20 7499 0057, bally.com
Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86
5. Jigsaw top, £89, Jigsaw, St Christopher’s Place, London W1U 1LT, +44 (0)20 7493 9169, jigsaw-online.com
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KING OF COOL Rewrite the rules by teaming dark prints with sleek summer accessories 1
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1. Etro shirt, £430, Etro, 43 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4QT, +44 (0)20 7493 9004, etro.com 2. Acqua di Parma Colonia Essenza travel spray, 30ml, £88, and travel spray case, £74, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), acquadiparma.com
3. Church’s cardholder, £66, Church’s, 133 New Bond Street, London W1S 2TE, +44 (0)20 7493 1474, church-footwear.com
5. Tod’s sunglasses, £260, Tod’s, 2-5 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4PD, +44 (0)20 7493 2237, tods.com
4. Versace sandals, £600, Versace, 183-184 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QP, +44 (0)20 7259 5700, versace.com
6. Dior Homme Chiffre Rouge A03 watch, £2,750, Watches of Switzerland, 155 Regent Street, London W1B 4AD, +44 (0)20 7534 9810, dior.com
Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86
S H O P | 23
RAY OF SUNSHINE Embrace the season with warm, vibrant tones and decorative detailing 1
5
4
2
PHOTO: (4) © FOUR SQUARE STUDIO INC
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1. Zenith Elite Ultra Thin Lady Moonphase watch, £16,100, The Watch Gallery, 129 Fulham Road, London SW3 6RT, +44 (0)20 7952 2730, zenith-watches.com
3. Salvatore Ferragamo shoes, £950, Salvatore Ferragamo, 24 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4AL, +44 (0)20 7629 5007, ferragamo.com
2. Van Cleef & Arpels earrings, £1,800, Van Cleef & Arpels, 9 New Bond Street, London W1S 3SW, +44 (0)20 7493 0400, vancleef-arpels.com
4. Jo Malone Orange Blossom cologne, 100ml, £85, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, jomalone.com
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5. M Missoni dress, £418, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, m-missoni.com
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BOLD AND BRAVE
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Accessorise daringly by combining striking prints, colours and textures 1
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1. Burberry scarf, £295, Burberry, 121 Regent Street, London W1B 4TB, +44 (0)20 7806 8904, burberry.com
3. Chloé Jane mini bracelet bag, £665, Chloé, 152-153 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9BX, +44 (0)20 7823 5348, chloe.com
2. Nicholas Kirkwood shoes, £695, Nicholas Kirkwood, 5 Mount Street, London W1K 3NE, +44 (0)20 7290 1404, nicholaskirkwood.com
4. Marco de Vincenzo sunglasses, price on request, Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, marcodevincenzo.com
Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86
5. Paul Smith shift dress, £250, Paul Smith, 40-44 Floral Street, London WC2E 9TB, +44 (0)20 7379 7133, paulsmith.co.uk
PHOTOS: (2) DAVID BROOK; (3) STANISLAS WOLFF
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STREET STYLE
PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
Contemporary classics and statement accessories from covetable brands such as Chloé, Fendi and Hermès proved popular at London Fashion Week
Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86
S H O P | 27
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STREET STYLE
PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
London’s fashionable inhabitants use green as a striking accent colour, incorporating Les Petits Joueurs, Peter Pilotto and Chanel into their efortlessly chic daytime looks
Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86
S H O P | 29
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SHOP WINDOW
STEPPING OUT Manolo Blahnik, one of the world’s leading luxury footwear brands, has built a reputation for beautiful shoes. The new Manolo Blahnik store in Burlington Arcade, which opened in February 2016, covers 1,000 square feet and carries both men’s and women’s shoes as well as the designer’s inaugural bag collection. This opening comes 44 years after Blahnik opened Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86
his first standalone store on Old Church Street in Chelsea. The interior design in the new Piccadilly boutique shows Blahnik’s eclectic tastes; colourful ottomans and bright silk lamps adorn the space. A private room on the top floor allows clients to browse in peace and place special orders for customisation. th Manolo Blahnik, Burlington Arcade, 51 Piccadilly, London W1J 0QJ, manoloblahnik.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 74
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PHOTO: ANDREW MEREDITH
ALL SEWN UP
TREASURE TROVE You will find the newly renovated Chanel watch and fine jewellery boutique in the heart of the luxurious Mayfair district. The interiors of the store’s three floors are every bit as lavish as the Chanel products on offer. This unique boutique was influenced by Gabrielle Chanel’s own Parisian townhouse, and elegantly combines intimacy, refinement and audacity. Chanel herself would no doubt have approved of the red marble fireplace, Venetian gilt wood mirrors and opulent chandeliers that adorn the space, while extensive glass cabinets house the finest, most exclusive Chanel jewellery available. The range includes the new Boy Friend watch, a vintage-inspired update of a classic Chanel design with an understated rectangular face. km Chanel, 173 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RF, +44 (0)20 7499 0005, chanel.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73
Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86
Turnbull & Asser opened a new store on Mayfair’s Davies Street late last year. Designed by acclaimed interior architect Shed, the store offers the historical brand’s ready-to-wear collection and bespoke service. The men’s shirtmaker was the first establishment granted a royal warrant by Prince Charles, heir to the British throne. Each garment is handcrafted by skilled artisans, and everything down to the last stitch is carefully considered. Every shirt is made from 33 individual pieces of fine cloth and has 13 iridescent mother-of-pearl buttons. Throughout the manufacturing process rigorous checks are made at all stages to ensure the quality is the highest possible. rd Turnbull & Asser, 4 Davies Street, London W1K 3DL, +44 (0)20 7499 0085, turnbullandasser.co.uk
BELSTAFF REVS UP
TOWN AND COUNTRY
2015 was a big year for British brand Belstaff, as it launched two new UK stores – the most recent opening is the branch at the Westfield London shopping centre. The store, which covers over 1,000 square feet, is located in the luxurious Village retail space, and caters for men, women and children with a mix of heritage pieces, footwear and accessories. There is also a central workstation where clients can have their Belstaff garments re-waxed. The company, founded in Longton near Stoke-on-Trent in the West Midlands of England, has been producing practical, waterproof garments for men and women since 1924. A rich heritage encompassing the worlds of exploration, aviation and motorsport makes Belstaff an iconic British brand. th Belstaff, Westfield London, Ariel Way, London W12 7SL, +44 (0)20 8762 0808, belstaff.co.uk
The William & Son store offers two floors of beautiful essentials for both town and country. This British emporium, which holds a royal warrant, stocks products such as jewellery, luggage, technology, accessories and tailoring. Some of the brands currently available include Johnstons of Elgin, maker of exquisite cashmere robes, Drake’s, east London-based manufacturer of scarves and pocket squares, and the William & Son watchmaker. rd William & Son, 34-36 Bruton Street, London W1J 6QX, +44 (0)20 7493 8385, williamandson.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 72
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PHOTO: JAMES MEDCRAFT
PHOTO: JAMES A. HUDSON
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IN BRIEF
BORN IN THE USA Detroit-based Shinola opened its new Soho store in December 2015 – the only branch outside the US. The 750-square-foot store hosts events, talks and demonstrations, as well as showcasing Shinola’s latest ranges; the brand’s watches, bicycles, leather goods, journals and pet accessories are all handcrafted in the US. The company, founded in 2011, is a relative newcomer, but has already captured the public’s imagination with its storied name (a reference to the Shinola shoe polish brand) and all-American heritage. th Shinola, 28 Foubert’s Place, London W1F 7PR, +44 (0)20 7734 5402, shinola.co.uk
PHOTO: JAMIE MCGREGOR SMITH
In 2015, Swiss luxury watchmaker JaegerLeCoultre launched a new flagship store on London’s Old Bond Street. The 2,500-squarefoot boutique houses a VIP room where clients can browse the brand’s collections in private
Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86
NEW PAL Italian fashion brand Pal Zileri has reopened its London store with a fresh, new vision. Creative director Mauro Ravizza Krieger describes its philosophy as ‘avant craft’ – the combination of an inspiring and creative outlook with fine craftsmanship and tailoring. This season’s collection is inspired by 20th-century kinetic and optical art, with exuberant use of patterns and hues in a spring colour palette of petrol blue, stone, rust and burgundy. A suit in wool, silk and linen is combined with an optical-print shirt, and the brand’s best-selling doubleface parka is constructed with lightweight fabrics and attention to detail. km Pal Zileri, 125 New Bond Street, London W1S 1DY, +44 (0)20 7493 9711, palzileri.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73
PHOTO: LEON CHEW
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BEAUTY QUEEN
CHALAYAN COMES HOME
PHOTO: © ASH KNOTEK
When Charlotte Tilbury, known for her signature smokey look for eyes and her luxuriously packaged products, opened her first standalone store in November 2015, beauty aficionados were thrilled. The Covent Garden boutique showcases her products across two floors. With seven art deco-style vanity tables, vintage trinkets and bejewelled counters and screens, the store epitomises old-school glamour. Make-up lessons are also available. th Charlotte Tilbury, 11-12 James Street, London WC2E 8BT, +44 (0)20 3846 9469, charlottetilbury.com
Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86
Innovative fashion label Chalayan has opened a boutique in London’s luxurious Mayfair neighbourhood. Creative director Hussein Chalayan chose Bourdon Street for its proximity to London’s luxury quarter; as well as offering Chalayan’s men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collections, the boutique will also host cultural events and parties. Renowned for his avant-garde creations, which fuse fashion, design and technology, Hussein Chalayan is one of the world’s leading designers. Born in Nicosia, the capital city of Cyprus, but brought up in London, he wanted to be involved in every aspect of his first flagship in his home city, and worked closely with architect Zoe Smith on the store design. Minimal and monochromatic, the space is designed as a backdrop to the collections, complementing and enhancing the Chalayan designs without drawing attention away from them. hl Chalayan, 2 Bourdon Street, London W1K 3PA, +44 (0)20 7493 8157, chalayan.com
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QUALITY TIME Luxury Swiss watchmaker Hublot has partnered British department store Harrods to create the Classic Fusion Blue 45mm Special Edition Harrods timepiece (from £6,900). The watch, which boasts cutting-edge technology alongside classic design elements, is made from titanium and blue composite resin, and is available with either a rubber or a rubber-lined alligator leather strap. The Classic Fusion, one of Hublot’s mainstays, has been reinterpreted a number of times. Its daring combination of precious and industrial materials made it a revolutionary design. This special-edition watch is destined to become a collectors item. th Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, hublot.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 77
DISCOVER BELL & ROSS The first UK Bell & Ross boutique has opened in the prestigious Burlington Arcade. Fans of the luxury watch brand should be sure to pay a visit, as the in-store experience is excellent, allowing visitors to discover not only Bell & Ross’s impressive range of timepieces, but also the history and the spirit of the company. The brand specialises in watches inspired by aviation, and aeronautical influences can be seen throughout the store, including industrial lighting, military shades of green and framed photos of the company’s history. Functional furniture subtly references the structure of vintage planes. Expert staff members are available to talk you through the latest pieces, as well as the classics. Get in touch to find out about the Boutique Experience, a bespoke tour which guides clients through the best of Bell & Ross, welcoming them into the private lounge for a glass of Champagne while they explore the brand. hl Bell & Ross, 48-49 Burlington Arcade, London W1J 0QJ, +44 (0)20 7629 6464, bellross.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 74
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PHOTO: © FRANCISCO DE ALMEIDA DIAS
SENSATIONAL SAAB
BEST FOOT FORWARD The Mayfair Aquazzura flagship, which opened in October 2015, is the brand’s first boutique in London. In keeping with the company’s classic yet colourful aesthetic, Portuguese interior designers Cláudia and Catarina Soares Pereira have created an eye-catching space within an elegant Georgian building. The bold cobalt blue sofas and original marble fireplace enhance the cosy atmosphere, while the pineappleshaped door handles reference the Aquazzura logo. Since it was founded in 2011 by Colombian designer Edgardo Osorio, the Florence-based luxury footwear brand has become a firm favourite with models and celebrities. Visitors to the London store will be able to explore exclusive styles as well as the core collection, the bridal range and bespoke services. th Aquazzura, 38 Albemarle Street, London W1S 4JG, +44 (0)20 3828 0433, aquazzura.com Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86
Lebanese fashion designer Elie Saab opened his first London flagship in spring 2016. The four-storey boutique in Mayfair stocks ready-to-wear, accessories and fragrance, and also houses the brand’s third haute couture salon – the other two are in Paris and Beirut. The design of the 8,600-square-foot store, devised in collaboration with architectural design agency RDAI, a regular partner of the brand, reflects the label’s femininity and modernity. Elsewhere in London, the Elie Saab retail space in Harrods has been relocated to the Superbrands area of the department store. With boutiques in Paris, Beirut, Dubai, Hong Kong and now London, and further openings planned for 2016, Elie Saab’s global presence continues to expand. th Elie Saab, 24 Bruton Street, London W1J 6QQ, eliesaab.com
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PERFECT SCENTS
EASY AS 1-2-3
A decade and a half after opening his first Paris boutique, Frédéric Malle, the perfumer known for his Editions de Parfums, has opened a store in the West End’s Burlington Arcade. The understated space is perfectly in tune with the historic Regency shopping promenade. The interior features a low bookcase, personally chosen by Malle, reminiscent of those found in grand English houses. To inject an element of modernity, Malle commissioned contemporary designer Martin Szekely to make a special version of his StoneStone table. This, teamed with sumptuous green curtains and chocolate and yellow carpets, makes a must-see shopping destination. The perfumer introduced Editions de Parfums in 2000, calling on the world’s most celebrated ‘noses’ to create exclusive fragrances to be sold under their own names. The concept has proved enduringly popular and Frédéric Malle perfumes are sought after by discerning clients across the world. rd Frédéric Malle, 14 Burlington Arcade, London W1J 0PH, +44 (0)20 7409 2364, fredericmalle.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 74
French clothing brand APC, known for its urban-chic apparel, has opened its third London store, this time in Notting Hill. As with the first two stores, the interior was designed by long-time APC favourite Laurent Deroo Architecte, and makes clever use of light oak and brass, along with glazed ceramic bricks inspired by the tiles that decorate the façade of many Victorian pubs. The store carries APC’s full menswear and womenswear collections along with its line of accessories, which includes shoes, quilts and candles. rd APC, 34 Ledbury Road, London W11 2AB, +44 (0)20 7792 5123, apc.fr
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IN STORE: JAMES PURDEY & SONS Founded in 1814, historical British brand James Purdey & Sons was originally a gunmaker. Today the brand’s luxurious range of clothing, footwear and accessories is aimed at sporting and outdoors enthusiasts and epitomises classic British style. Husband-and-wife team John and Anne-Marie Harrison design the Purdey fashion line. Ximena Daneri visited them in the South Audley Street store to discover the brand’s heritage and signature style
‘There are not many opportunities to work for a luxury brand that is both historical and technical. That is what drew us to James Purdey & Sons. The amazing heritage that Purdey has in its gunmaking is a rich source of design inspiration. This season we have taken the beautiful gun engravings and interpreted them into silk scarf prints. For summer, we have used the wood of the gunstocks to make Purdey sunglasses with a walnut frame. ‘The colour we call Audley House red is used in subtle ways in our clothing – a discreet flash of red can signal to the knowledgeable shooter that they are looking at a Purdey design. We also have a house tweed for men and ladies that was derived from the tweeds painted in a portrait of James Purdey. ‘Meticulous attention to detail sets us apart. In everything that Purdey does, whether it be clothing and accessories or gunmaking, every aspect has been thought out to ensure the customer has a product of outstanding quality that will pass the test of time. Purdey’s strong heritage is also a large part of the brand, as Purdey is over 200 years old and has remained in London since the very beginning. Audley House in Mayfair has been Purdey’s home since 1882. In 1973, Purdey became the first London gunmaker to sell a range of highquality shooting clothing. The whole company comprises about 75 people, with about 25 working at Audley House and the rest at our Hammersmith workshop. ‘The first shop James Purdey opened in 1814 was in Princes Street, off Leicester Square. As the business grew, the Duke of Westminster, who was redeveloping the Mayfair area, asked Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 86
‘Purdey’s amazing heritage is a rich source of design inspiration’ if Purdey would like a specially designed space on the corner of South Audley Street and Mount Street for the famous brand. Purdey has remained there ever since. ‘The duke gave James Purdey the opportunity to design the space as he required. The Long Room was originally the Purdeys’ office. Purdey recently refurbished the clothing and accessories part of the shop and moved most of the gun room into the Long Room. There is more space in the shop now and dedicated menswear and ladieswear sections. ‘The biggest challenge for us is to keep moving forward technically; incorporating advancements in cloth such as Kevlar and waterproof tweeds improves comfort in the field while remaining true to the essence and appearance of the brand. ‘Spring/summer used to be a tough season for us, because it isn’t traditionally part of the British shooting calendar, but with the new spring range of safari cottons, lightweight linens and silk shirts we have a lot to offer our customers.’ James Purdey & Sons, Audley House, 57-58 South Audley Street, London W1K 2ED, +44 (0)20 7499 1801, purdey.com
PHOTO: XIMENA DANERI
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Above: John and Anne-Marie Harrison maintain the Purdey tradition of classic British style
SCENT ESPECIALLY FOR YOU London’s top perfumers ofer bespoke services to their most discerning clients. Frances Wasem reveals the names to know
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n 1957, couturier Hubert de Givenchy created a perfume for Audrey Hepburn. The delicate, foral and powdery scent of L’Interdit (‘forbidden’) was exclusively mixed for Hepburn, and for years was made for her alone. It was only in the 1960s that the actress allowed the scent to become available to all. L’Interdit shows how a bespoke scent can capture the unique spirit of its wearer. To own a fragrance that utterly represents us is surely the desire of every perfume purchaser. In a time of mass-market perfumes, big brands and overwhelming choice, this has seemed an ever more elusive dream – but not for much longer. In London, a new breed of British perfumer is looking to the history books for inspiration; specifically to the 18th century, when perfumers used all-natural ingredients of the utmost quality. Back then, bespoke creations could take as long as a year to develop; today’s modern technology has streamlined the process, allowing perfumers to take the bespoke experience to the next level. Last year, Lyn Harris opened a chic bespoke atelier, Perfumer H, in London’s fashionable Marylebone. Harris, the founder of Miller Harris, a luxury fragrance house favoured by Londoners in the know, is the only classically trained female ‘nose’ in the UK. In her new atelier she focuses on the individual, hoping to bring bespoke perfume values to a wider audience, and, she has said, to ‘pioneer naturals back into perfumery.’
Previous page: perfume master Roja Dove at work Above (clockwise from top): Lyn Harris, founder of Perfumer H; two views of the brand’s Marylebone boutique
The Perfumer H range offers three levels of exclusivity. While Harris’s Seasonal Editions are off-the-shelf, they are still far from mass market. Her Laboratory Editions are collections of past and present formulas that clients can experience in the boutique’s laboratory and order instantly. Find one you love and for £1,500 the formula can become entirely yours, registered exclusively in your name. The fully bespoke service starts at £15,000. Another British perfumer flying the flag for bespoke scents is Roja Dove. Dove, who worked for 20 years at Guerlain, believes that overmarketing of perfume was killing the industry. Big corporations ‘forced classical perfumery to its knees,’ he says. ‘It was about marketing.’ In 2001, Dove introduced his own bespoke service, which costs around £25,000 and includes body lotions and candles as well as the perfume itself. The formula of the final unique fragrance will ‘never be revealed,’ he says. At the Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie in Harrods, which opened in 2004, customers are guided through the perfumes already on Above: Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie; the brand’s Jasmine de Grasse candle
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) JON FURLEY
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PHOTO: CHUCK NOBLE
PHOTO: JONATHAN WEATHERLEY
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A bespoke perfume, individual to the wearer, is the latest in genuine luxury offer to find the one that truly reflects their personality – not quite bespoke, but there is still a sense of finding ‘the one’. Dove has also reintroduced classic perfumes such as Diorama by Dior and Ombre Rose by Jean-Charles Brosseau, widening the choice for customers seeking something a little different. Last October perfumer Azzi Glasser opened a bespoke atelier in her London studio. Appointments are bookable via the Harvey Nichols department store’s concierge service. Glasser has created bespoke scents for Hollywood names such as Johnny Depp, Helena Bonham Carter and Jude Law. Glasser takes into account her clients’ personality, scent
likes and dislikes and personal style to create a fragrance that ‘reflects the client’s DNA.’ Unusually, she also works visually as well. ‘I can see what the fragrance will smell like and look like, before I even start the creation process,’ she explains. Clients are enthusiastic about the results. ‘She has made me a scent I feel like I’ve always had – it is me, I just never had it in a bottle before,’ says Law. It’s not just the perfumes that are unique. These perfumers extend the bespoke experience to the bottles that encapsulate the perfumes. Lyn Harris’s bottles are handblown in England, making them unique and collectable. Roja Dove’s perfumes are presented in Baccarat crystal and the gold lettering on his bottles is screen-printed by hand. A bespoke perfume is the latest in genuine luxury, as intrinsic to an outfit as the perfect handbag, the right pair of shoes. Christian Dior once said that ‘a woman’s perfume tells more about her than her handwriting.’ Make sure, then, that the person you reveal to the world through your fragrance is who you truly are
Above: perfumer Azzi Glasser; essential oils in the bespoke atelier in her home
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Jessica McCormack’s unconventionally informal approach to high jewellery makes her diamond-based designs accessible, emotive and extremely covetable, says Beth Druce
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McCormack’s fresh, informal take on the high jewellery world is tempered by a serious approach to design. Prior to founding her company, she worked at the Sotheby’s auction house, where her appetite for precious jewels was unleashed. ‘I was exposed to Russian crown jewels, 1920s Cartier, Lalique, the most incredible jewellery. Being from New Zealand, I’d never seen anything like it!’ she recalls. It was at this time that diamonds first made an impact on her, and it’s these stones that characterise her work today.
PHOTO: (TOP) JASPER ‘YOGI’ GOUGH; (BOTTOM) BETH DRUCE
essica McCormack is quietly changing the way that people shop for jewels. She creates high jewellery with a twist: antique-inspired pieces that fuse old-world heritage with a fresh, modern edge. McCormack loves creating what she calls a ‘snapshot of time’ – a piece that captures a particularly signifcant part of a client’s life, perhaps an anniversary or a birth – and her approach is refreshingly relaxed, as she explains at her ‘house’ on Carlos Place. McCormack calls it her house partly because it is, but also because having premises where her clients feel at home was instrumental in how her brand evolved away from the traditional high-jewellery retail model towards a bespoke, highly personal, approachable service. ‘I was too scared to go into a shop on Bond Street,’ McCormack says of her early days in London. Her own atelier is far from intimidating. ‘You can come and hang out in here, and you can look at books, and you can be inspired. I was working on a Saturday and these people came in and I didn’t have any shoes on. They asked: “But are you Jessica, and do you always work on the shop floor?”’
Above (from top): Jessica McCormack Hurricane pendant; the jewellery designer’s flagship store
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PHOTOS: (TOP AND RIGHT) JASPER ‘YOGI’ GOUGH; (BOTTOM LEFT) JAMES MCDONALD
‘Diamonds are really important to what I do now but it’s how I choose a diamond, how I look at a diamond, that’s very different to how anybody does it,’ she explains. ‘Everybody is obsessed with certificates and facts and figures and commoditising to the nth degree. I’m looking at it like I look at a piece of art, with my eyes. I think, “Is that beautiful? Is that something that I want?”’ McCormack’s signature styles include her Wing of Desire earrings, inspired by the Greek messenger god Hermès with his winged sandals. Made to order, with a principal round brilliant-cut diamond and set with more of the same, they can be worn curved up or down. The Tattoo earrings are set with 500 pavé-set brilliant-cut diamonds and recall Maori tattoos, an example of McCormack’s capacity for storytelling through jewels, as well as a nod to her New Zealand roots. McCormack recently unveiled her Diamond Party Jacket collection, inspired by the keeper rings popular in the 18th century, which were originally worn to protect other rings and keep them from sliding off. The Diamond Party Jackets are halos of diamonds that wrap around an existing ring. Many of McCormack’s creations involve reworking precious stones or existing pieces into something more wearable. Family
Above (clockwise from top): grey diamond flower ring, Wing of Desire earring and diamond necklace, all Jessica McCormack; the designer’s Snowdrop Riviere necklace; her jewellery gallery
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PHOTOS: (LEFT) ALICE WHITBY; (BOTH RIGHT) JASPER ‘YOGI’ GOUGH
McCormack creates jewellery with emotional resonance that goes beyond its material value heirlooms, such as engagement rings passed down through generations, are some of her favourite commissions, bringing with them the opportunity to breathe new life into heritage pieces. ‘I love that there’s that oldworld sentiment behind it, because that’s the emotional side as well, that’s really important,’ says the designer. ‘You create these pieces that have layers and stories.’ These layers and stories are crafted through ‘conversation and drawing a little out of the person,’ an exchange that embodies McCormack’s philosophy. ‘There are little things that you pick up that they don’t even realise that they’re saying; whether they have children or grandchildren or animals, or they live in the country or have a certain affinity with somewhere.’ The result might be
diamonds set alongside stones that recall the blue eyes of the owner’s offspring, or a diamond pendant whose underside is etched with the geographical coordinates of places someone holds dear. Ultimately, McCormack’s work is about creating jewellery with emotional resonance that goes beyond the material value of the piece – and a corresponding sense of joy and affinity. This is a far cry from conventional notions of fine jewellery – and the feeling that high-value pieces must be saved for special occasions, or treated with an uncomfortable sense of reverence. ‘I’m creating pieces that people can live a life in partnership with; wear it, use it, love it, appreciate it,’ McCormack explains. ‘You want it to live a life with you, not to just be something you wear once a year’
Above (clockwise from top): a Jessica McCormack artisan at work; the designer’s House collection; Tattoo earrings and diamond Shell Sail ring
MAYFAIR MARVELS A wave of new fagships in the Mount Street area showcases the work of some highly desirable designers. Harriet Quick takes a tour of this must-visit luxury destination
PHOTO: GILBERT MCCARRAGHER
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Above: Christopher Kane’s flagship store on Mount Street
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nter Simone Rocha’s flagship store on Mount Street and you will find yourself wandering around a softly-hued space observing sculptures, giant marble ottomans and even a gazebo, which houses mannequins dressed in Rocha’s Japan-inspired spring/summer collection. Most women who try on her crinkly kimono-fabric flounce skirt or her obi-tied tech-nylon tunic will feel an affinity with her sweetly subversive codes of femininity. The store sits proudly on one of Mayfair’s most prestigious streets – a hop and a skip from the boutiques of such powerful brands as Loewe, Céline, Balenciaga and Marc Jacobs. Rocha doesn’t turn 30 until September 2016 and her first collection made its debut only five years ago: that she has already staked her claim on Mount Street bricks and mortar is a triumph. The store opened last September and follows flagship openings on Mount Street and intersecting South Audley Street by designers Christopher Kane, Roksanda Ilincic, Nicholas Kirkwood and Erdem Moralıoğlu, all in their thirties. The presence of these boutiques is transforming the area. Each store is highly
PHOTO: GILBERT MCCARRAGHER
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Each of the spaces is a testament not just to the brands but to the designers and the ways they like to shop individual, beautifully appointed and shows the many facets of London’s new face of luxury. The idea of owning a boutique in this kind of neighbourhood would have been just a pipe dream when these designers began their careers in east London warehouses and studios. The investment required is substantial. And yet, with backing deals from the fashion industry’s biggest investors, coupled with independent financial success, this generation of designers was able to take the plunge. The architectural and artistic collaborations that characterise these spaces are impressive. Christopher Kane worked with minimalist
Above (clockwise from left): Simone Rocha; Christopher Kane; Nicholas Kirkwood; Roksanda - the new crop of boutiques with prestigious Mount Street addresses
architect John Pawson to realise the two-storey marble-clad temple that shows off his electrifying designs. ‘I was getting tired of looking at everything but the clothes. Chandelier! Whoop! Sofa! Whoop! So many obstructions. I don’t want something that looks dated in five years. I wanted a carved-out, clean space in beautiful materials,’ says Kane. Roksanda Ilincic, who recently dropped her surname from her eponymous brand, called on architect David Adjaye to work on her impressive boutique, which beguiles with textures, subtle colourways and metallic finishes. ‘I wanted a home for my clothes. There are many contrasts. From the moment you enter you sense an industrial, feminine and luxurious feel and downstairs there is a more discreet, warm, homely space,’ says Ilincic. In contrast, Kirkwood’s store features a floor-to-ceiling display of his playful sculptural heels. Each of the spaces is a testament not just to the brands but to their designers and the ways they themselves like to shop. While many of these brands are backed by fashion powerhouses, Erdem Moralıoğlu owns
PHOTO: ED REEVE
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Above: English caption xxxxx qui officiducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi quis cum facil
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PHOTO: (BOTTOM) PACKSHOT FACTORY
Rich arrays of designs, products and services bring the delight back into shopping the entirety of his own company. This is unusual, but, supported by his impressive international clientele, he too has seen great success. Take a sharp left at the end of Mount Street and you will discover the genteel surrounds of the designer’s flagship, which he designed with his architect partner Philip Joseph. Restored ironwork, artworks by David Hockney and Jean Cocteau and tropical foliage all contribute to a townhouse ambience that perfectly showcases Moralıoğlu’s poetic, romantic designs. ‘There’s a marvellous Victorian fern garden, furniture I developed with Philip and 20th-century modern pieces from Sigmar on the King’s Road,’ says Moralıoğlu of the décor. Like the store, his creations deftly marry the
desires of today with the handicrafts and silhouettes of a bygone era. These environments bring the delight back into shopping and show off a richer array of products, designs and services than a department store might offer, including exclusive lines. Discover crystal tassel key rings and a newly launched line of trainers at Kane, languid blouses, swimwear and Ilincic’s famous occasionwear at Roksanda, and a debut shoe line at Erdem. That these brands are investing in unique bricks-and-mortar spaces is a testament not just to the creativity of those behind them, but also to the longevity of designers who were seen as the new crowd not so long ago
Above (clockwise from left): Erdem Moralıoğlu; the interior of Nicholas Kirkwood’s boutique; Christopher Kane high-top trainers
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RAISING THE BAR London’s top cocktails are often found in drinking dens tucked away in basements or on back streets. Theresa Harold goes under cover to discover
London has a long history of cocktail drinking. Londoners developed a thirst for gin, a key component of many classic cocktails, in the late 17th century, particularly as unlicensed production was legal – and London gin became distinct from the Dutch genever spirit that it was based on. By 1726, London had 1,500 working stills and there were 6,287 places where you could buy gin, according to spirits company Sipsmith. One of the first printed mentions of ‘cocktail’ to mean a mixed drink was made in a London newspaper in 1798; and Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks by William Terrington, one of the first British books to include cocktail recipes, was published in 1869. Today we remain as enamoured of mixed drinks as ever. Drinks International’s most recent list of the world’s best 50 bars includes no fewer than nine in London, with five in the top 10 – making the city arguably the cocktail capital of the world. Some of its best mixologists are found in bars that are off the beaten track. Our choices offer innovative drinks, world-class service, a relaxed atmosphere – and a memorable evening. globalblue.com
ORIOLE A five-minute walk from Farringdon station but a world away in terms of atmosphere, Oriole brings the glamour and adventure of the 1940s into a modern cocktail bar. The sumptuous space is decked out with exotic antiques and live bands play jazz and blues. The cocktail menu has three sections: New World, Old World and The Orient. The New World menu evokes the Americas, the Old World choices are derived
from the diversity of Europe, while the Orient cocktails draw on the intensity and variety of flavours from the east. Our top tip: don’t miss Cortez the Killer, a mix of Don Julio Reposado tequila, balsamic vermouth and agave tonka syrup. Oriole, East Poultry Avenue, Smithfield Markets, London EC1A 9LH, +44 (0)20 3457 8099, oriolebar.com
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NA M E OF PL ACE English
русский язык Russian
中国的 Chinese
Name Of Place, Address and Telephone website
PHOTO: OLLIE HARROP
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THE BAR WITH NO NAME The Bar With No Name at 69 Colebrooke Row in north London references 1950s Italian cafĂŠ style and film noir elements. This drinking den can be hard to track down as there is no name above the door. Situated on an Islington back street, it is an intimate one-room bar identifiable by an outdoor lantern. Owner Tony Conigliaro has created a concise menu of globalblue.com
cocktails with intriguing names such as Death In Venice – Campari with grapefruit bitters, topped with Prosecco and finished with an orange twist. The Bar With No Name, 69 Colebrooke Row, London N1 8AA, +44 (0)7540 528593, 69colebrookerow.com
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W H I T E LYA N With award-winning bartender Ryan Chetiyawardana and his business partner Iain Griffiths at the helm, there is little that can go wrong at White Lyan. All drinks are made with the bar’s own Mr Lyan spirits and ingredients; they are pre-mixed and include no ice or perishables (even lemon), so the bartender simply has to pour the bottle into a glass before giving it a quick spritz with an aromatic spray. If this sounds gimmicky, rest assured that the results speak for themselves. White Lyan, 153-155 Hoxton Street, London N1 6PJ, +44 (0)20 3011 1153, whitelyan.com
H A PPI N ESS FORGETS Happiness Forgets is well worth the effort needed to locate it in a tricky-to-find Hoxton basement. Ali Burgess founded the bar in 2010 and it has been a firm favourite with London’s cocktail aficionados ever
since. The menu features such delights as Perfect Storm, a mix of dark rum, honey, lemon, freshly squeezed ginger juice and plum brandy. Alongside the cocktails, there is also an extensive wine and beer list. Make a reservation
via the bar’s website – or simply drop in, as half the tables are kept for walk-up customers. Happiness Forgets, 8-9 Hoxton Square, London N1 6NU, happinessforgets.com
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STAY IN STYLE The world’s finest hotels boast desirable locations, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best
BAUER PALAZZO The Bauer Palazzo hotel is the perfect romantic bolthole. Located on the banks of the Grand Canal in Venice, mere steps from Piazza San Marco, the luxurious five-star hotel is housed in a traditional 18th-century Venetian palazzo with a Gothic façade and arched lancet windows. Bauer Palazzo offers 135 guest rooms and 56 suites, all sumptuously decorated, many globalblue.com
boasting terraces or private balconies. For panoramic views of the city, venture up to Settimo Cielo, the highest rooftop terrace in Venice, where breakfast is served. And don’t forget to book dinner at De Pisis, Bauer Palazzo’s gourmet restaurant, where chef Hiraki Masakazu will impress you with his Asian-inspired Mediterranean cuisine. Bauer Palazzo, Campo San Moisè, San Marco 1459, 30124 Venice, +39 041 520 7022, bauervenezia.com
PHOTO: STEPHAN LEMKE FOR 25HOURS HOTELS
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25HOURS HOTEL BIKINI BERLIN 25Hours Hotel Bikini Berlin, located next to Berlin zoo, has a playful feel. The newly opened hotel, designed by Werner Aisslinger, comprises 149 rooms, some with views of the zoo’s ape and elephant enclosures. Neni restaurant – overseen by taste-making Austrian restaurateur Haya Molcho – and the Monkey bar occupy the
10th floor which includes a roof terrace, allowing guests the chance to enjoy excellent food and drink while taking in the panoramic views. The hotel even has its own wood-fired bakery, which produces delicious breads and patisserie which can be enjoyed with a cup of excellent coffee. 25Hours Hotel Bikini Berlin, Budapester Strasse 40, 10787 Berlin, +49 (0)30 120 2210, 25hours-hotels.com
PHOTO: ABACAPRESS/AARON JOEL SANTOS
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PULLMAN KUALA LUMPUR CITY CENTRE The Pullman Kuala Lumpur City Centre is the perfect choice for travellers on account of its location at the heart of the Bukit Bintang district, and being just a short walk from the city’s fashionable and popular Pavilion shopping mall. The hotel offers 445 modern and spacious guestrooms in addition to 157 serviced apartments. Guests can expect to globalblue.com
enjoy panoramic views of some of Kuala Lumpur’s most famous sights, including the Petronas Twin Towers. Excellent facilities are available, such as the award-winning Sompoton Spa (which is open from 10am to 11pm), a residents’ lounge, fitness centre and an outdoor pool surrounded by palm trees. Pullman Kuala Lumpur City Centre, 4 Jalan Conlay, Bukit Bintang, 50450 Kuala Lumpur, +60 (0)3 2170 8888, pullmanhotels.com
PHOTO: © 2015 WALDORF ASTORIA
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WALDORF ASTORIA AMSTERDAM Positioned on Herengracht, one of Amsterdam’s best-known canals, the Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam combines Dutch style and history with the luxury and attention to detail for which Waldorf Astoria hotels are known worldwide. The hotel is in a former merchant’s house with plenty of spacious, light-filled rooms providing views of the adjacent canal and of the house’s
pleasant courtyard garden. For those looking for particularly spacious accommodation, the distinctive Brentano Suite possesses its own dining room, study and walk-in closet. Afternoon tea is served in the refined surroundings of the hotel’s Peacock Alley, gourmands will enjoy De Librije restaurant, which holds three Michelin stars, and the cosy Vault Bar is the ideal place for a nightcap. Waldorf Astoria Amsterdam, Herengracht 542-556, 1017 CG Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 718 4600, hilton.com/amsterdam
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THE GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to London with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a fashionable florist to this season’s unmissable sporting, musical and cultural events. Start with our recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.
PHOTO: VISITLONDONIMAGES/BRITAINONVIEW/PAWEL LIBERA
A Glimpse Of London
Above: Westminster Bridge and the Houses of Parliament, viewed across the Thames
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SELECTED STORE IN SELFRIDGES: Tiffany & Co O
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TRE
Selfridges BOND STREET
NE W BOND S
● ROBERT CLERGERIE
OX FO RD S
T RE E T ● PINKO C IN L BOSIDENG ● LS CA E I BROWNS ● AR NA TI ● A RU S H O D D BROWNS FOCUS ● ● L INK AR WHISTLES ● ● P ÉR BS CLAUDIE PIERLOT ● ● G OB 3 NK ● H W CE PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND ● ● N PA S I N I O BUTLER & WILSON ● ● S EIS IM R R S ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● ● R AT C A K E L E ER DUNE ● ● C AS BA OP M N ● M E D KO KOL L E VERTICE UOMO ● ● T E ● TH LUMAS GALLERY ● OW M I R L L EN A ● JONES ● U YE R E MONICA VINADER ● ● K A L O WE N T E A ● S A J OO BA E BO ● M S T IN A AFTERSHOCK ● The Beaumont ● SA E TI O L S S ● P UC MA ET T POSTE ● ● R HO E LA COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● Y ● T T I N CO MODA IN PELLE ● ER ● AR HO LL T C AUBADE ● ● K WE OF N FREY WILLE ● C JE S DO ● INK N SANDRO ● SPENCE R L LO ANNOUSHKA ● ● HART ●
ACCESSORIZE ●
SO
UT
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BROO K ST R EET
Claridge’s
E AV RY
BROOKS MEWS
● SONIA RYKIEL ● POMELLATO
DAVIES STR EET
VERA WANG AT BROWNS ●
RO W
GROSVEN OR STREET
● DUNHIL L
Global Blue Retailer Department Store
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Hotel
Restaurant
PHOTO: RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY
● LANVIN
DUNHILL BOURDON ● HOUSE
JIMMY CHOO Accessories specialist Jimmy Choo celebrates its 20th anniversary in 2016; to mark the occasion, the brand has launched Memento, a capsule collection of shoes and bags that showcases the best of the label’s history, focusing on its frequent presence on the red carpet. The collection’s 20 designs, a mix of new looks and classic styles reimagined, all presented in special packaging, celebrate the all-out glamour that Jimmy Choo has come to embody. A piece from the Memento range is a must-have for fans of the brand. Jimmy Choo, 27 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RH, +44 (0)20 7493 5858, jimmychoo.com
M● N LIA WIL & SO & ND ● P.33 LLA HO LLAND ● HO RIONI ● B ZO KEN ELL A ST Y ● TNE T ● CAR AN MC MAR EW BEL TTH ● ISA MA ON MS LIA WIL Y● ● PERLE S ● P EST TEM HILLI ON VER P YE EV OT H ALD IAN RG ● D TIM RON NBE LA ● STE IE FU R M A RG RIS ● IN HAR ART LLER MI
● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ● TURNBULL AND ASSER MA
DAVIES STREET
ROKSANDA ●
● LOEWE
● CAROLINA HERRERA
● GOYARD
Mount Street Deli
● MOYNAT DELFINA ● DELETTREZ ● CÉLINE ● MARNI ● PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND ● GEORG JENSON ● STEPHEN WEBSTER
Connaught Hotel
MOUNT STR EE T
NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD ●
C A R L O S P L ACE
BALENCIAGA ● CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ● PAULE KA ●
MARC JACOBS ● GEORGE JENSEN ●
ScoÉ’s
MOUNT ROW ● ROLAND MOURET ● JESSICA MCCORMACK SOLANGE ● AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE ● JENNY PACKHAM
GRO SVEN OR HIL L
S H O P | 73
New Bond Street OX FO RD ST R
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Place Of Interest
London Underground Station
Featured In This Issue
74 | G U I D E
Conduit Street & Old Bond Street
WEMPE
O ILE R OUR N S AV ●F IS O ED MA LA ● UA R A S -S Q R G IE O AT ● ● D -3 A D ID IYA K E MA ALD G G ER ● Y SEY M ET O Z WO AT E N O L IV ● TRE S Y E ● IS TO N ●B EEN ● L IN G SW BUR TCH ● OLD SKE I● OTO ELL A M J O H N● AM U C IN JI Y TOS ND LO C B IE IL A YO H R VA NEL A V ROM H AV BRU ●C UE N NE A L IQ ARA SON D T IE N ●L AK R EE SHE V IV M A N ● OO K ST ONN L HER CO R ST W ●D OOD RNO ● N IE WE A ST W N N E IL L IP I ETE ●D H● WE F IV IE TOS ● ● V B IA N A C K IN K L E Y A MA OBE ●F HOC ER ● ON RDR ELL ● WA KIT ● &P ● OLD BY CK G RHI ● R IG BAR BLA FA OLO Y S E L IC O L E EE T ●P ERR D IE N STR URB ●B OND ● B YS OLD HEB S● SOT ARD T N● DW REE E R E E O S S IA O ● E ST ARL IN TAT ER M SCH ALB MO
CLARKS ●
ST R EE T
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M A DD OX
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Cecco ni’s
EN ARD ON G O IN G T R AG A M R URL
Statement jewellery is a key trend this season and Wempe’s spring/summer 2016 collection is nothing short of dazzling. Distinctive, eye-catching highlights include the Revival By Kim necklace, a chic, contemporary take on the classic curb-link chain necklace. This classic 1970s style has been redesigned in feminine rose gold and combines a bold handmade link chain with a solid necklace. For evening, jewellery fans should seek out By Kim’s exquisite Colonna cocktail rings, adorned with a sizeable tourmaline in either sea green or purple, as well as the spectacular haute joaillerie bracelet whose sapphire and diamond design was inspired by the crest of a wave. Wempe, 43-44 New Bond Street, London W1S 2SA, +44 (0)20 7493 2299, wempe.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73
S
E B RE F AT O A LV ●S PH E S O ●J IL A A H AT ● C X MAR er ● Dov eet PER ● MA M ● A A O S t r r k e t CT U J A NE X ● R A DG A P ● TTE A Ma C A R R O L IS ● B O E N E T K AT Z TRE A AKR V ● IE L ●V OUL ARI IE N M I ● L E V N T ● H ● DA N E R L EC E G I AE L L AT U R L S M IT Burlington A EG A J C L C ● A T AU BU M E G N I Arcade S A IN ● P R E E T ●O ST IA CI ● RD AM F FO GUC RON ●D S TA E K H A S ● ANA ● D PERL A VA C N T IN ABB QUEEN A S TA U● ● L LCE & G MC CO N V ER T DO DER O● N ● A IN LEX ENT RE R● ●A VA L U LT T IE O D ’S - L E C O B CAR ●T B O● ER WE ETR A EG & J AL ● IN A● R OY Y APP ERL ● THE ADEM ●M DER L A P S N R C A E ● A X BE A L E WA N G DE
TIFFAN Y & CO ● PAUL SMITH ● N E L ● CHA NY ● DK
OLD
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Le Caprice
Global Blue Retailer Shopping Centre/Mall
I L LY
The Wolseley
SELECTED STORES T IN BURLINGTON TREE YN S ARCADE: JER M Manolo Blahnik P.30 Bell & Ross P.37 Frédéric Malle P.39
Non-Global Blue Retailer
LOCAL TIP
Marble Arch, designed by John Nash in 1828, was originally conceived as the state entrance to Buckingham Palace, but when this royal residence was extended by Queen Victoria the structure was moved to Hyde Park. London Underground Station
Restaurant
PHOTO:VISITLONDONIMAGES/BRITAINONVIEW/FCO/DAMIR FABIJANIC
S H O P | 75
SHOP DIARY
A ROUND UP OF THIS SEASON’S MUST-DOS...
JUN
Regent Street
WIMBLEDON
The Wimbledon Championships, which run until 10 July, are one of the world’s most prestigious tennis tournaments and a highlight of London’s summer calendar. Luck out by scoring some Centre Court tickets, or simply stop by to enjoy the high-spirited ambience. wimbledon.com
JUN
BBC PROMS
BENETTON ● FRENCH CONNECTION ● KAREN MILLEN ● TED BAKER ● APPLE STORE ● LACOSTE ●
OX FO RD ST
● TEZENIS
RE ET
● OMEGA
LONGCHAMP ● MOLTON BROWN ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● MICHAEL KORS ●
● & OTHER STORIES ● ACCESSORIZE
● ARMANI EXCHANGE
● ALL SAINTS ● H&M
ANA ● BAN
FURLA ● HOBBS ● BARKER ● TUMI ● CAMPER ● KIPLING ● CLARKS ●
M A SC U TU ● AQ U T LI C STR EE R EP U B OUGH
OR MARLB G R E AT Liberty
P.82
● COS ● DESIGUAL
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● HAMLEYS
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● JUICY COUTURE
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CHURCH’S ● THE PEN SHOP ●
FO
CAR
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The Henry Wood Promenade Concerts, better known as the Proms, are the UK’s best-known classical music festival. The aim is for as many people as possible to enjoy these informal, inexpensive concerts and the festival showcases a wide variety of music in a range of inspired venues. bbc.co.uk/proms
● TOPSHOP/TOPMAN
OXFORD CIRCUS
● HOUSE OF HANOVER
Audrey Hepburn is an enduring beauty and style icon, and this exhibition at the National Portrait Gallery offers a glimpse of the actress’s long and feted career, alongside intimate family photographs. npg.org.uk/whatson/hepburn
● NIKETOWN
H&M ●
REGENT STREE T
JUN
AUDREY HEPBURN: PORTRAITS OF AN ICON
GR EAT C ASTLE STREET
LEVI’S ●
GO BOSS
Above: National Portrait Gallery
Department Store
Featured In This Issue
Place Of Interest
76 | G U I D E
Regent Street, Piccadilly & Jermyn Street ● HUGO BOSS
MOLESKINE ●
● ESPRIT
● OUR LEGACY
● LEVI’S
Cinnamon Soho Jinjuu
● REISS
R EG E
OW
● PIQUADRO
TRE ET
TRE
S AV
ET
ILE R
RUSSELL & ● BROMLEY
OW
ZARA HOME ●
ES S
HN S
● MAPPIN & WEBB
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
AM
● TOMMY HILFIGER
SWAROVSKI ●
ER J
E R JO
● TIMBERLAND
GODIVA ●
● TM LEWIN
PENHALIGON’S ●
● FOLLI FOLLIE
TOYWATCH ●
● THE BODY SHOP ● ZARA ● MANGO
BURBERRY ●
BR
EW
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ST
RE
DINOSAUR DESIGN ●
ET
D YAR HAM
FRESCOBAL CARIOCA ● BRUMMELS OF LONDON ● ONCE ● MILANO EYEWEAR ● CONCIERGE
VIGO STR EE T
● AUSTIN REED ● WOLFORD ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT GL AS ● MOSS BROS SH CLARKS ● OU ● UNIQLO ● LUSH SE LONDON TEXTILE CO ● ST RE ● COACH ET ● NESPRESSO HOLLISTER ● ● LOTUS HUNTER ● ● WOLFORD R
ORLEBAR BROWN ●
REISS ●
SUPERDRY ●
n
rcade
Maso
RO
YA L
um &
ess A
C Z EC
P IC C A
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C MAR AMPO Z IO ● E XC OF L ELLENC OND O N ●E H AW CU ES & T H E S R T IS ● T IN G ●
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PICCADILLY CIRCUS Piccadilly Circus ● LILLYWHITES
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R EE T
UGG ● AUSTRALIA
D IL LY
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DENMAN STREET
’S DON WLEY ● RO E T TS LON M ● EM S NE ● JO OF T IG E R E D E N ’S ● SW U RCH USE ● CH O GLE H NEY ● ● EA CHE A ● L E W IN R T IN A ● TM LA MA NES ● R STO WAT E KS ● DA T IS ● W H IT CURT S TYR ES & ARLE H AW ● CH R EE T RK ST O F YO DUK E DSON & HU LEY R V IE ROM ● HA L&B SSEL ON ● RU LON D DRO F F IE L D KS O ● LLA ● L IN O N & W H IT S XT JO N E ● PA TT & LES OCKE CHAR ● CR E● E R IC K D W IL L ● RO FREY O R IS ● FL BB H N LO ● JO T Y● CKE T & KE ● ET ● HA IT C H STR E S H IL D V IL LE K B AT E ● SON S AC K ● P IN ER & ER FOST IS BARK E ● T R ● WS AK & CU H WES D SPE N D IS ● HA C AV E VERE S ’S JA M E ● DE T ST
Café Royal
● MR HARE
JER M
LOW
R EE T
● BROOKS BROTHERS
OXFORDS ●
SELECTED STORES IN PRINCESS ARCADE: The Left Shoe Company
. K ST
LOW
NT ST
L’OCCITANE ●
WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND ●
BEA
ACE
LE R
CRABTREE & EVELYN ●
DENM AN PL
S AV I
● WOLFORD ● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● GUESS ● ANTHROPOLOGIE ● MASSIMO DUTTI
EE
TR EE
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CH A R
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St James’s Square
LE S II
STR E
ET
● JAMES LOCK & CO ● BERRY BROS & RUDD
Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue
K IN G
ST R E
ET
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Shopping Centre/Mall
Department Store
S H O P | 77
Brompton Road
RO X
N RO AD
●
KENSINGTON ROA D
KNIGHTSBRIDGE
BU RB RY
RO
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ON
PA
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SELECTED STORES IN HARRODS: Lladro Vertu Atelier Des Ors Hill & Friends P.98 Hublot P.37
s
ER LL PE & Y N GB O RI RS ● DE N SA RT ’ S PE CH UT RU UR ● CH P OR A S H ● GA ND LAS ● PA N G O ● S U KO E S S N R PI SP S IS RE
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●
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● KA ● LU RE ● LK I JO N M IL ● EC B E LE ● G A CO N N E N TT ● AC N T C B ● A ES S ● PO LE SO ● BA RS R RIZ ● W RK CH E ● T O AT C E R E D ES ● TH M H IG ● MA E K MY ES N ● K S O H OF ● T E U TC SI M O P I L F SW ● RU D B HIN O D LES IGE IT R ZE Z A SS AK S U RL R A EL ER KY T T I L AN & D BR ● F O KNIGHTSBRIDGE M EA LE TH Y ER S
T RE E L ST HAE RAP
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●
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●
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●
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Bulgari Hotel
MONT
HARVEY NICHOLS ●
LE
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A ● ANY
PON ● SKANDIUM
Place Of Interest
H IN D M
A RCH
ET T ST R E
● JOSEPH
London Underground Station
Restaurant
Hotel
Café
A
78 | G U I D E
Sloane Street North
Sloane Street South CADO GAN GATE
KNIGHTSBRIDGE
CADOGAN PLACE
Harvey Nichols BOODLES ● KID SPACE ●
● PINK ELL IS STREET
● GARRARD C A D O G A N G A R DEN
● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
● ZEGNA ● TOM FORD ● ERMANNO SCERVINO ● MONCLER ● ESCADA ● MISSONI ● LOUIS VUITTON
ANNE FONTAINE ●
● ROGER VIVIER
● CHANEL ● DRJIE ● LA PERLA ● COUTTS & CO BANK
CADOGA N PLACE
LARA BOHNIC PICKETT N PEAL CASSANDRA GOAD
KIN
G’ S
Colbe r t
RD
SLOANE SQUARE S LOA N E G A R D E N S
● EMILIO PUCCI
● MAJE ● ● ● ●
● HUGO BOSS
● SAINT LAURENT
SLOA NE TERRACE
● PICKETT
LOW ER SLOANE STREET
● VALENTINO
● JO MALONE
Sloane Square ROYAL COURT THEATRE
● DODO ● BOGGI ● HOSS INTROP IA
LORO PIANA ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ●
● DOLCE & GABBANA
WILBR AHA M P L .
● CHLOÉ
SY MONS STR EE T
● TM LEWIN ● RIGBY & P ELLER ● COMPTOI R DES COTONNIERS ● WOLFO RD ● ELLIOT RHODES ● MASSIM O DUTTI ● BCBGM AXAZRIA ● CATH KI DSTON ● ERIC BOMBARD ● WHISTLES ● COS
PRADA ●
GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI ●
● BULGARI
● KABIRI BIMBA Y ● LOLA VIVIENNE ● WESTWOOD
AMOUAGE ●
GIORGIO ARMANI ●
● HERMÈS
L O W N D E S S T.
TOD’S ●
● FENDI
SLOANE ST REET
BOTTEGA VENETA ●
● VERSACE
PAULE KA BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ANYA HINDMARCH BROWNS
LINKS OF LONDON ● PETER JONES ●
● MIU MIU
ROBERTO CAVALLI ●
CARTIER ● TIFFANY & CO ●
A● HK ● US RS NO TE S ● A N T ROT P L E Y ● O E KO M L I ● TH E BRO L& EL
GUCCI ●
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Lowndes Square
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MARNI ● GIANFRANCO FERRÉ ● MICHAEL KORS ● DIOR ●
LES PETITES ● MARIE CHANTAL ● PAUL & JOE ● FRANK SMYTHSON ● HACKETT ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ●
● FRATELLI ROSSETTI
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SLOANE STREET
SHANGHAI TANG ● OMEGA ● DOLCE & GABANA ● JITROIS ● CESARE PACIOTTI ● MICHAEL KORS ● BILLIONAIRE ● HOGAN ● GRAFF ●
SLOANE STREET
MCM ● H&M ●
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TIFFANY Tiffany has been one of the world’s most iconic jewellers for over 175 years. The American company remains firmly committed to superlative quality, while remaining ahead of trends and producing exquisite jewels that are passed from generation to generation. The Tiffany T collection, the first from design director Francesca Amfitheatrof, includes necklaces, rings and bracelets inspired by the bold, sculptural shape of the letter T and the distinctive architecture of New York, where the company was founded. Tiffany & Co, 145 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9AY, +44 (0)800 160 1114, tiffany.co.uk
Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Department Store
Place Of Interest
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TAKE A WALK
PHOTO: © PAWEL LIBERA/LONDON AND PARTNERS
Best known for its staggering array of fashion boutiques, London’s West End is also a must-visit for architecture lovers. Begin your architectural walking tour at iconic department store Liberty of London, renowned for its Tudor-inspired exterior, before heading to Regent Street to check out the impeccably restored Salviati mosaics in the super-sleek Apple store. From there, it’s a short walk to Hanover Square, home to St George’s Church, which was considered London’s most fashionable place of worship in the mid 18th century. Handel had his own pew here, and 25 Brook Street, where the composer lived, is nearby. Musician Jimi Hendrix lived next door at 23 Brook Street for some time in the 1960s. End up on bustling Oxford Street and take a moment to appreciate the clean mid-century design of the John Lewis store, which has a Barbara Hepworth sculpture affixed to one side.
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TWENTY8TWELVE ● MATCHES ● DIANE VON FURSTENBERG ● THE VILLAGE BICYCLE ● CARAMEL ● EWS EM LYON CHOY LONDON ● V IL L CO L PETIT BATEAU ●
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The coolest concept store on Farringdon Road, previously known as the Clerkenwell Collection, has been rebranded as Clerkenwell London after a stylish redesign. This boutique, design space, restaurant, café-bar and events venue was already a unique location and is now better than ever. Visitors can browse a great selection of homewares, menswear, womenswear, accessories, jewellery, stationery, art, music and literature. If this exhaustive list isn’t enticing enough, 155 Bar & Kitchen, the in-house restaurant, offers coffee in the morning, cocktails at night, and delicious food and drink in between.
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
PHOTO: ED REEVE
CLERKENWELL LONDON
Clerkenwell London, 155 Farringdon Road, London EC1R 3AD, +44 (0)20 3826 1142, clerkenwell-london.com
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When a fabulous floral bouquet is required, Nikki Tibbles is a name to know. The florist, who works with many of the city’s most exclusive fashion houses, has an exquisite Chelsea store in addition to selling her blooms at Liberty. Expect astonishingly beautiful arrangements that appear almost effortless in their perfection. Nikki Tibbles Wild At Heart, 30A Pimlico Road, London SW1W 8LJ, +44 (0)20 7229 1174, wildatheart.com PHOTO: BRIAN HANDFORD
S H O P | 81
LOCAL TIP
Westbourne Grove & Denbigh Road
82 | G U I D E
MY LONDON: LUCY DICKENS Artist Lucy Dickens is the great-great-granddaughter of author Charles Dickens, one of the most famous Englishmen, and shares his love of the city where he set many of his most famous novels. Where Charles Dickens captured London and its vibrant citizens in words, Lucy Dickens represents them through her paintings, which particularly focus on the area around Berkeley Square, Mayfair, where she has worked for years. She shares her favourite places in the city that inspires her with Isabella Redmond Styles lucydickens.com
‘I’ve lived in London all my adult life – I’m a veteran north Londoner. I live in Kentish Town. I love the great mix of cultures and the lack of chain stores. Even if money were no object, I’d still live in the same house, if I could just move it a little nearer to Hampstead Heath, where I walk every day with my lurcher Lenny. ‘In London, my favourite store is Liberty *p.75, which is hard to beat for sheer style. For everyday shopping, I stick to Kentish Town. I walk to
Above (from top): Lucy Dickens; the Ruby Violet ice cream store
favourite. The same waiters have been serving tasty Greek dishes for decades and it’s the best place I know for family celebrations. I’ve been hanging out at the Ritz in Piccadilly a lot recently to gather material for my next exhibition. For less than £10 you can get coffee in a silver pot with two pieces of shortbread and watch the theatre of a grand old hotel play out in front of you. Quo Vadis in Soho is great for special occasions. It has a clubby atmosphere and a seasonal menu. Another of my favourites is Moro in
PHOTO: TED ALLEN
Earth, a wonderful organic food shop. I can also find fresh herbs, Lebanese specialities and fantastic lamb, which I slow-cook in the Aga. I buy books at the Owl Bookshop. Salvino is an Italian deli off Brecknock road in Kentish Town. Their coffee beans, parmigiana and pannetone are simply the best. My latest discoveries in the area are Shoe Shop, which is actually a restaurant, and Ruby Violet for home-made ice creams next door. ‘Lemonia in Primrose Hill is another long-established
PHOTO: MORLEY VON STERNBERG
S H O P | 83
ARTWORK: LUCY DICKENS
The British Museum * p.71 is the best in London, without a doubt. It has everything. ‘To relax, I walk, meditate, do yoga and stare into a real fire on winter evenings. I have recently discovered the joys of growing my own vegetables. ‘When I travel, I love browsing bazaars and vintage stores rather than buying big
PHOTO: DARREN CHUNG
Exmouth Market. I have been going there for years and it’s always brilliant: a great mix of Spanish and north African flavours. ‘The South Bank is the place for river walks and culture: the National Theatre * p.71 and Royal Festival Hall * p.71 are both there, plus the London Eye * p.71 and some terrific bars and restaurants. ‘I have a regular daily walk, which is a circuit of Hampstead Heath, in all weathers and seasons. From the top of Parliament Hill on Hampstead Heath you can see the whole of London in all its glory. I also enjoy walking along the South Bank of the river to Tate Modern, or from Kentish Town to King’s Cross along the canals. ‘St Paul’s Cathedral offers history, elegance and beauty in the heart of the city.
brands. I have found wonderful rugs in Udaipur and bought fabulous fabrics from Luang Prabang on a holiday in Laos last year. ‘My tip for exploring London would be to walk everywhere, avoiding main roads as far as possible. Never take the tube at rush hour and get a Muji mac with a big hood so you don’t need to carry an umbrella. I get around London by walking, bus-hopping and – after a night out – by black cab or Uber.’
Above (from top): Royal Festival Hall; Lucy Dickens’s painting of the Ritz hotel in London’s Piccadilly; food from Moro restaurant
84 | G U I D E
DAY TRIP BICESTER VILLAGE Located just an hour from central London, Bicester Village is surrounded by picturesque countryside and is close to the historic city of Oxford. Bicester Village plays host to more than 130 boutiques from leading luxury brands and up-and-
coming labels. The architectural design reflects its setting, with low-rise boutiques clustered around an open-air boulevard. Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6WD, +44 (0)1869 366266, bicestervillage.com
OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-7pm Saturday: 9am-8pm Sunday: 10am-7pm* *On Sundays Burberry, Gucci, Hugo Boss and Polo Ralph Lauren open at 11.30am for browsing and at 12pm for shopping; they close at 6pm. Prada and Versace open from 12pm to 6pm for shopping.
BICESTER NORTH BICESTER TOWN/ BICESTER VILLAGE Bicester Village
A41
M1
M40
A41
M1 M40
M25 M40
LONDON
HOW TO GET THERE By Car The journey from London takes 60 minutes. Take the M40 motorway to exit nine. Follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester and then follow the signs to Village Retail Park and Bicester Village Outlet Centre. The car park is free. If you are using a satellite navigation system, the postcode is OX26 6WD.
Train Station
Outlet Village
By Shopping Express The Shopping Express is the daily* coach service from central London to Bicester Village, one of the world’s premier luxury shopping destinations. *excludes 25 December Ticket prices: Adult return £28 Child return £23 (up to 15 years of age)
By Train Two trains an hour run from London Marylebone to Bicester Village station. The journey can take as little as 46 minutes. Alternatively, four train services an hour run from Marylebone to Bicester North station, where the Bicester Village shuttle bus will whisk you to your favourite boutiques.
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MY PERFECT DAY GLOBAL BLUE’S MENSWEAR REPORTER RUAIRIDH PRITCHARD DESCRIBES HOW HE WOULD SPEND A PERFECT DAY AT BICESTER VILLAGE
SERVICES • The suite of services offered includes the award-winning Bicester Visitor Centre, valet parking, a children’s play area, personal stylists, Hands-Free Shopping, a contemplation room, a money-changing facility and instant tax refunds.
DON’T MISS… SHOPPING DAY EXPERIENCE This exclusive package includes:
• Return tickets on the Shopping Express luxury coach service from central London to Bicester Village • A VIP Card providing additional savings in participating boutiques • Hands-free Shopping service where boutique assistants pack your purchases ready for collection later • A two-course lunch or dinner at either Villandry Grand Café or Carluccio’s • £50 Bicester Village Gift Card to spend in the boutiques of your choice
MUST-VISITS
PHOTO: (PROFILE) DIONNE HÉLÈNE
HUNTER • The Hunter brand, established in 1856, holds royal warrants from both the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh. Discover the Hunter Original and Hunter Field collections in the Bicester Village boutique.
BALENCIAGA • French fashion house Balenciaga was founded by Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga who opened his first boutique in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1918, and established his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1936.
10am Start your day at Mulberry, a quintessentially British brand with a reputation for balancing creativity and modernity with the traditions of leather craft and manufacture. Mulberry inspires and delights customers across the world. 11am Be sure to stop at Tag Heuer, purveyor of some of the finest Swiss timepieces. The boutique is the perfect place to pick up some new wristwear. 1pm Take a break for lunch at Farmshop. This all-day dining destination from Soho House & Co has been created exclusively for Bicester Village. 3pm A modern American luxury brand rooted in quality and craftsmanship, Coach is synonymous with the ease and sophistication of New York style. 5pm End your day at Anya Hindmarch. The British designer’s colourful and quirky handbags, as practical as they are appealing, have made her brand a hit among the fashion set.
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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE
Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
1. Shop
Refund Ofce details: London Heathrow Terminal 1 London Heathrow Terminal 2 London Heathrow Terminal 3 London Heathrow Terminal 4 London Heathrow Terminal 5
Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.
2. Claim
When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.
London Gatwick North Terminal London Gatwick South Terminal International Currency Exchange, 339 Oxford Street, London W1C 2JB International Currency Exchange, Westfeld London, Ariel Way, London W12 7GF No 1 Currency, City of London Information Centre, St Paul’s Churchyard, London EC4M 8BX Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL Topshop, 536-540 Oxford Street, London W1C 1LS Spend a minimum of £30 and save up to 14% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111
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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 42: Scent Especially For You
Парфюм От Кутюр Фрэнсис Уозем рассказывает о лучших парфюмерах Лондона, которые предлагают эксклюзивные услуги для самых взыскательных клиентов В 1957 году кутюрье Юбер де Живанши создал парфюм для своей музы Одри Хепберн. Деликатный, цветочный аромат L’Interdit («запрещенный») был разработан специально для актрисы и в течении многих лет выпускался исключительно для нее, пока в 1960-х она не дала свое согласие на включение его в массовый ассортимент. L’Interdit доказывает, как эксклюзивный аромат может запечатлеть уникальный образ своего владельца. Обладание ароматом, который мог бы стать отражением нашей индивидуальности, вероятно, мечта любого покупателя. Особенно актуальной эта мечта кажется на фоне несметного количества похожих ароматов и крупных брендов, наводнивших рынок парфюмерных изделий. К счастью, выход всегда есть. Новое поколение британских парфюмеров решило искать вдохновение в старинных книгах, датируемых 18 веком. В те далекие времена мастера парфюмеры использовали в качестве ингредиентов исключительно натуральные и высококачественные компоненты, а на создание одного аромата могло уйти до года. С развитием технологий этот трудоемкий процесс значительно ускорился, что позволяет современным парфюмерам вывести индустрию индивидуальных ароматов на новый уровень. В прошлом году Лин Харрис открыла роскошный салон «Perfumer H» в престижном лондонском районе Marylebone. globalblue.com
Харрис, также основавшая популярный среди лондонцев парфюмерный дом Miller Harris, является единственным в Великобритании профессиональным дегустатором парфюмов, прошедшим классическую подготовку. Главный акцент в ее салоне ставится на создание индивидуальных ароматов, которые парфюмер надеется донести до широкой аудитории, а также на использование натуральных компонентов, которые, по ее словам, нужно «вернуть в индустрию». В «Perfumer H» покупателям предлагают три уровня эксклюзивности. Сезонная серия Harris Seasonal Editions хоть и представляет собой готовую коллекцию, но все же сильно отличается от парфюмерии массового спроса. Серия Laboratory Editions подразумевает знакомство клиентов с уже существующими формулами, заказать которые можно будет мгновенно в лаборатории бутика. За £1500 композиция может стать полностью вашей и будет зарегистрирована на ваше имя. Услуга создания абсолютно индивидуального аромата начинается от £15 000. Другой британский парфюмер Роха Дав также пропагандирует идею эксклюзивности. Дав, проработавший 20 лет в компании Guerlain, полагает, что чрезмерные маркетинговые стратегии уничтожают индустрию. Большие корпорации «поставили традиционную парфюмерию на колени», – говорит он. – Во всем виноват маркетинг». В 2001 году Дав открыл свой парфюмерный салон, где за £25 000 клиент получает не только собственный парфюм на заказ, но и набор лосьонов и ароматических свечей. Окончательная формула аромата «никогда не будет в широком доступе», – уверяет он. В отделе Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie, открытом в универмаге Harrods в 2004 году, посетители могут познакомится с готовой коллекцией и найти тот единственный
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аромат, который лучше всего отражает их внутренний мир. Не совсем на заказ, но все же здесь присутствует элемент «единственного и неповторимого». Кроме того Дав предлагает собственные ремейки культовых духов, например, Dior Diorama и Jean-Charles Brosseau Ombre Rose, расширяя тем самым выбор для покупателей, ищущих альтернативу своим фаворитам. В октябре прошлого года парфюмер Аззи Глассер открыла салон эксклюзивного парфюма прямо в своей лондонской студии. Забронировать визит можно у консьержа в универмаге Harvey Nichols. Среди клиентов Глассер немало голливудских звезд, включая Джонни Деппа, Хелену Бонэм Картер и Джуда Лоу. Во время консультации, которая длится несколько часов, парфюмер пытается узнать как можно больше о клиенте, его любимых и нелюбимых запахах, а также особенности его индивидуального стиля. На основе собранных данных будет создан парфюм, «отражающий личность своего обладателя». Подобно композитору, представляющему в своем уме симфонию, парфюмер может создать в своем уме образ аромата. «Я могу увидеть аромат еще перед тем как он будет создан», – поясняет она. От результатов клиенты просто в восторге. «Она создала для меня духи, которые кажутся до боли родными, словно они были у меня всегда, разве что сейчас я могу хранить их во флаконе», – говорит Лоу. Однако не только духи могут быть уникальными. Парфюмеры также позаботились об оригинальном дизайне флаконов. Например, флаконы Lyn Harris создаются вручную в Англии, что делает их настоящей находкой для коллекционеров. Флаконы Roja Dove создаются из хрусталя Baccarat, а позолоченные надписи наносятся вручную методом трафаретной печати. Парфюм на заказ – это последний писк в индустрии роскоши, который так же дополняет образ, как роскошная сумка или сногсшибательные туфли. Кристиан Диор однажды заметил: «Парфюм может сказать о женщине больше, чем ее почерк». Так что, учтите это, когда в следующий раз будете выбирать ваш аромат. globalblue.com
48: Diamonds Are Forever
Бриллианты Навсегда
Благодаря нестандартному подходу Джессики Маккормак к дизайну ювелирных изделий ее украшения всегда доступны, экспрессивны и невероятно желанны, – говорит Бет Дрюс Джессика Маккормак медленно, но уверенно меняет традиционные представления о шоппинге. Основу ее коллекций составляют оригинальные драгоценные украшения, сочетающие винтажный стиль и элементы современного дизайна. Маккормак создает то, что она сама называет «слепками времени». Под этим она подразумевает украшения, отражающие какой-либо знаменательный период или события из жизни ее клиентов, например, юбилей или день рождения. При этом ее подход отличается легкостью и непринужденностью, в чем можно убедится лично, придя в ее «дом» на Carlos Place. Маккормак называет свой салон домом, поскольку практически там живет, ну а отчасти потому, что ее клиенты должны ощущать себя не иначе, как дома. Именно такая концепция помогла ее бренду перейти из разряда обычного ювелирного салона в высоко индивидуальный, но в то же время доступный сервис уровня «bespoke». «Мне было немного страшно заходить в дорогие магазины на Bond Street, – вспоминает Маккормак свои первые дни в Лондоне. – У нас же каждый может прийти и чувствовать себя свободно: здесь можно просто рассматривать книги или искать вдохновение. Однажды я работала в субботу и к нам зашли посетители и заметили, что я без обуви. Они удивились: „Это вы и есть та самая Джессика? Вы всегда сами стоите за прилавком?“». Элегантный и своеобразный стиль Маккормак сочетается с безупречным дизайном. Перед тем, как открыть свою компанию, она долгое время работала в аукционном доме «Сотбис», где и зародилась ее страсть к драгоценностям. «Мне посчастливилось увидеть сокровища
PHOTO: JASPER ‘YOGI’ GOUGH
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Российской империи, коллекции Cartier и Lalique 1920-х годов и многое другое. Учитывая, что я родилась в Новой Зеландии, ничего подобного я увидеть и не мечтала», – вспоминает она. В то время бриллианты оказали на нее неизгладимое впечатление, сподвигнув к сегодняшнему творчеству. «Бриллианты играют ключевую роль в моей работе, и здесь очень важен правильный подход. Мое видение бриллиантов, пожалуй, сильно отличается от традиционного, – поясняет она. – Все словно помешаны на сертификатах, фактах и цифрах. Я же предпочитаю смотреть на бриллиант, как на произведение искусства, пытаясь понять красивый ли он, то ли это, что я ищу?». Одной из визитных карточек Маккормак являются сережки Wing of Desire, вдохновленные крылатыми сандалиями греческого бога Гермеса. Центральным элементом этих сережек, выпускающихся только по заказу, стал бриллиант круглой огранки, окруженный такими же камнями меньшего размера. Их можно носить повернутыми вверх или вниз, в зависимости от настроения. Серьги-кольца Tattoo, украшенные 500 бриллиантами круглой огранки, напоминают татуировки племени Маори и отсылают к новозеландским корням дизайнера. Недавно Маккормак представила свою новую коллекцию Diamond Party Jacket,
вдохновленную массивными кольцами, популярными в 18 веке, которые служили своеобразной защитой для остальных колец. Diamond Party Jackets – это целый кластер бриллиантов, надевающийся поверх основного кольца. Многие из своих изделий Маккормак создает из уже готовых украшений и камней, меняя дизайн на современный лад. Работа с семейными ценностями, например, обручальными кольцами, которые передаются из поколения в поколение, доставляет дизайнеру наибольшее удовлетворение. «Мне нравится то, что все старые украшения имеют свой особенный ореол, свою историю, это для меня очень важно, – говорит дизайнер. – У меня есть шанс вдохнуть в них новую жизнь». Приступая к работе над очередным украшением дизайнер пытается выведать от клиента как можно больше информации о происхождении изделия: «Даже самые незначительные детали могут помочь составить полную картину. Важно все, есть ли у клиента дети или внуки или домашние животные, живет ли он в деревне или родился в какой-то определенной местности». Исходя из полученных сведений Маккормак сможет отразить в украшении специфические образы. Это могут быть драгоценные камни, напоминающие голубые глаза внука или бриллиантовое колье, оборотную сторону которого будет украшать гравировка географических мест, особо дорогих сердцу клиента. По большому счету работа Маккормак подразумевает создание украшений с эмоциональным подтекстом, превосходящим по значимости материальную ценность самого предмета. Философия дизайнера выходит далеко за рамки традиционного ювелирного искусства, приучившего нас беречь самые дорогие вещи для особых случаев. «Я создаю украшения, которые призваны стать частью жизни покупателя, украшения которые можно и нужно носить, использовать, любить и ценить, – поясняет Маккормак, – С этими украшениями нужно прожить жизнь, а не доставать их из шкатулки раз в год».
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54: Mayfair Marvels
Чудеса Mayfair Новая волна флагманских бутиков на Mount Street обновила коллекции ряда модных дизайнеров. Харриет Куик составила гид по этому респектабельному району Войдя во внутрь флагманского магазина Simone Rocha на Mount Street, посетители словно попадают в музей, наполненный скульптурами, мраморными креслами и даже беседками с манекенами, демонстрирующими весенне-летнюю коллекцию Rocha, вдохновение для которой дизайнер нашла в культуре Японии. Практически все, кому доводилось примерять ее оборчатые юбки из ткани для кимоно или нейлоновые туники, перевязанные поясом, непременно испытывали необъяснимую симпатию к удивительно женственному стилю дизайнера. Ее магазин расположен на одной из самых престижных улиц района Mayfair, в нескольких шагах от бутиков таких знаменитых брендов, как Loewe, Céline, Balenciaga и Marc Jacobs. Всего за пять лет с дебюта своей первой коллекции Симон Роша смогла открыть свой собственный магазин и добилась настоящего триумфа, при том, что на сегодняшний день ей даже не исполнилось и 30 лет. Бутик дизайнера впервые открыл свои двери в сентябре прошлого года на пересечении Mount Street и South Audley Street по соседству с бутиками Кристофера Кейна, Роксанды Илинчич, Николаса Кирквуда и Эрдема Моралиоглу. Присутствие таких магазинов серьезно преобразило весь район. Каждый из бутиков глубоко индивидуален, прекрасно оформлен и отлично демонстрирует новое лицо лондонской роскоши. Идея открыть магазин в подобном районе могла лишь насмешить многих дизайнеров в начале их карьерного пути, когда им приходилось ютиться в студиях и складских помещениях восточного Лондона. Главной проблемой всегда были конечно же инвестиции. Однако благодаря независимому финансовому globalblue.com
успеху и, конечно, не без помощи крупных инвесторов модной индустрии, мы стали свидетелями появления на свет нового поколения модельеров. Масштабы проводимых здесь дизайнерских и художественных коллабораций впечатлят любого. Кристофер Кейн совместно с архитектором минималистом Джоном Паусоном представили публике двухэтажный мраморный храм, чтобы продемонстрировать глубину дизайнерских коллекций. «Обычно, при входе в магазин первое, что бросается в глаза это интерьер, а вещи остаются на втором плане. Мне это изрядно надоело. Слишком много препятствий. Мне не нужно ничего, что будет смотреться старомодно через пять лет. Мне хочется видеть чистое, свободное пространство из красивых материалов», – говорит Кейн. Роксанда Илинчич, убравшая недавно свою фамилию из названия бренда, пригласила своего давнего друга, архитектора Девида Аджайе для работы
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над интерьером бутика, дизайн которого будет сочетать оригинальные текстуры, сдержанную палитру и отделку в стиле металлик. «Мне хотелось создать дом для моих коллекций. В нем должно быть много контрастов. С первой минуты пребывания здесь начинаешь ощущать слегка индустриальную, но женственную и роскошную атмосферу, в то же время помещение внизу отличается сдержанностью, теплотой и домашним уютом. Некоторые посетители проводят у нас даже по несколько часов», – говорит Илинчич. В противоположность последнему магазин Кирквуда сверху донизу заставлен витринами с изящными туфлями. Каждая витрина воплощает не только одну из черт бренда, но и стиль дизайнера и его личную манеру шоппинга. В то время как многие из этих брендов являются частью модных конгломератов, Эрдем Моралиоглу остается единственным владельцем своей компании. Это довольно необычно, однако благодаря поддержке обширной международной аудитории ему не сложно сохранять популярность. Если повернуть налево в конце Mount Street, то вашему взору откроется флагманский бутик дизайнера, который он спроектировал вместе со своим партнером, архитектором Филипом Джозефом. Интерьер особняка, вместившего бутик, украшают картины Девида Хокни и éана Кокто, декоративные кованые изделия и тропические растения, идеально дополняя романтические коллекции Моралиоглу. «Здесь есть чудесный викторианский сад папоротников, мебель, созданная мной и Филипом, и современные произведения искусства из салона на King’s Road», – рассказывает дизайнер о декоре. Как и сам магазин его коллекции, отличающиеся ручной работой и силуэтами ушедшей эпохи, отвечают всем требованиям времени. Такой оригинальный подход делает шоппинг только интереснее и позволяет представить покупателям более широкий ассортимент и спектр услуг по сравнению с универмагами. К примеру, в бутике Kane вы сможете найти эксклюзивные брелки с
хрустальными кисточками и новую линия кроссовок, в Roksanda вас ждет серия блузок сдержанных оттенков, а также купальники и вечерние платья, а Erdem предлагает посетителям дебютную коллекцию обуви. Тот факт, что бренды инвестируют в капитальное строительство говорит не только о креативности их создателей, но и о том, что их дизайнеры, еще недавно ничем не выделявшиеся из толпы, успешно прошли испытание временем. 86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум £30 и сэкономьте до 14% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
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42: Scent Especially For You 量身调制 伦敦顶级香氛制造商们为最挑剔的顾客提供量身 定制服务。Frances Wasem为您介绍几个不可不 知的名字
1957年，女装设计师Hubert de Givenchy为灵感 缪斯奥黛丽·赫本打造了一款香水。这款精致的花 香与粉香调香水名为“L’Interdit（禁忌）” ，多年来 只为赫本一人调制。直到1960年代这位女演员允许 其公开发售。 L’Interdit完美展现了定制香氛如何捕捉使用 者的独特气质。拥有一款能完全代表自己的香水，必 是所有香氛爱好者的终极渴望。在如今品牌香水大 行其道，大品牌强势压倒一切，香水品种数不胜数的 现下，这似乎是个越来越难以实现的梦——但这一 现状不会持续太久了。 在伦敦，一批新的英国调香师正从历史中寻求 灵感；尤其是在18世纪，调香师都使用品质最上乘 的全天然成分。当时，香水的创作定制可能需要长达 一年的时间；今日，现代技术大大缩减了这一过程， 让调香师将香氛定制提升到新的境界。 去年，Lyn Harris在伦敦时尚的Marylebone 区开设了一间时髦的定制工作坊，Perfumer H。Harris是深受伦敦名流爱戴的奢华香氛品牌 Miller Harris的创始人，也是英国唯一经过传统训 练的女“鼻子”。在这间新工作坊内，她强调个性化， 希望让更多受众了解定制香氛的价值，并且她补充 道， “将自然带回香氛的世界”。 Perfumer H系列提供三个档次的独家定制服 务。尽管Harris的Seasonal Editions系列是可以直 接购买的成品，但仍旧与大众市场相距甚远。她的 Laboratory Editions系列，则包含品牌从过去到现 在推出过的所有配方，供顾客在店内实验室中鉴赏 或立即购买。找到心之所属并花费1,500英镑就可以 拥有这种味道，该配方会以你的名字标注。而完整的 香氛定制服务则从15,000英镑起价。 另一间高举定制香氛旗帜的英国香水制造商 是Roja Dove。Dove在娇兰工作了20年，坚信过 度营销正在扼杀香水工业。大机构们“迫使传统香 水制造商对自己俯首称臣” ，他说。 “一切都围绕 着市场营销。”在2001年，Dove推出了自己的定制 服务，费用约为25,000英镑，除香水外还包括身体 乳与蜡烛。最终香氛的独特配方将“永久保密” ，他 表示。2004年Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie在哈 罗德百货开张，顾客们可在此体验现有的产品并找 到真正能表达自我的香氛——虽不是完全定制，但 globalblue.com
仍有“找到命中注定”的感觉。Dove让一系列经典 香氛重获新生，例如Dior的Diorama，以及 JeanCharles Brosseau的Ombre Rose，通过提供不太 一样的产品从而为顾客们拓宽选择面。 去年十月，调香师Azzi Glasser在伦敦工作室 内开设了一间定制工坊。顾客们可以通过Harvey Nichols百货公司礼宾部预约服务。Glasser曾经 为好莱坞明星如Johnny Depp、Helena Bonham Carter和Jude Law等人定制香氛。在持续数小时的 咨询服务中，Glasser会深入了解顾客的个性特征， 对气味的好恶以及个人风格，力图创造出可以“反映 顾客独有基因”的香氛。与众不同的是，她在工作中 还使用视觉。 “在开始创造之前，我就能感知这款香 氛将会闻起来怎样、看上去怎样， ”她解释道。顾客 们对定制成果反应热烈。 “她为我创作了一款感觉 上早就属于我的味道——这就是我，只是从前我未 曾拥有过这么一瓶而已， ”Jude Law表示。 并非只有香水可以定制。这些调香师们将定制 体验衍伸到用来封装香水的容器上。Lyn Harri的 香水瓶是在英国手工吹制的，独一无二且具收藏价 值。RojaDove的香水都装在Baccarat水晶器皿中， 瓶身上的黄金刻字是手工丝网印刷的。 在高端奢侈品领域，拥有一款度身定制的香氛 是最新热潮，其对于整体造型的重要程度等同于一 枚完美手袋，或是一双合适鞋履。Christian Dior曾 经说过， “女人的香水能比她的笔迹透露更多。”所以 请务必确保，你通过香氛展现在全世界面前的，是 最真实的自我。
PHOTO: JON FURLEY
美文翻译
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48: Diamonds Are Forever 钻石恒久远
Jessica McCormack将别出心裁的反传统设计手法 运用到高端珠宝领域，使她推出的钻石珠宝系列平 易、感性、极具魅力，Beth Druce报道
PHOTOS: JASPER ‘YOGI’ GOUGH
Jessica McCormack 正悄然改变着人们的珠宝选 购方式。她创建了别具一格的高级珠宝系列：将传 统历史文化与新潮摩登细节相融合的仿古风格单 品。McCormack热衷于进行自诩为“时间快照”的 创作—— 一件能捕捉顾客生命中最重要部分的单 品，或许是一次纪念日或生日——而她的手法有着 令人耳目一新的轻快，她在位于Carlos Place的“ 家”中解释道。McCormack 称其为“家”部分是 因为她自己就住在这里，同时也因为这里拥有让顾 客宾至如归的环境，对她的品牌从传统高级珠宝零 售模式进化为高度个性化、具有亲和力的服务模式 至关重要。 McCormack 表示在自己初到伦敦时， “太害怕 去邦德街的商店了”。而她自己的工作坊却毫无距离 感。 “你可以随意进入，看看书，寻找灵感，有个周六 我在工作，有人走进来看到我没穿鞋子。他们问： ‘ 你是 Jessica吗？你总是在店里工作吗？’” McCormack在高级珠宝领域使用的新潮、非 传统的手法，是以严格的设计训练为根基的。在成 立自己的公司以前，她曾任职于苏富比拍卖行，在那 里发现了自己对高端珠宝的热爱。 “我见过俄罗斯皇 冠上的明珠，1920年代的卡地亚，Lalique的作品， 各种不可思议的珠宝。来自新西兰的我，从没见过类 似的东西！”她回忆道。正是在那时她对钻石留下了 深刻印象，而钻石亦勾勒出她今日的作品。 “钻石对我现下的创作至关重要，但我挑选钻 石、看待钻石的方法，是与旁人非常不同的， ”她解释 道。 “每个人都执着于鉴定书与鉴定数据，追求到极 致。但我看待钻石就像看待艺术品，只用我的眼睛。 我想的是， “这美吗？是我想追求的东西吗？” McCormack的招牌款式包括她的Wing of Desire耳环，灵感来自希腊信使神Hermès的带 翅膀凉鞋。这款按需定制的作品，以一枚圆形明 亮切割钻石为主石，并在周边镶嵌多枚钻石，佩戴 时可以将翅膀弧线朝上或朝下，完全取决于佩戴 者的心情。Tattoo环形耳环则镶嵌有500枚明亮 切割密钉碎钻，并模仿毛利人的刺青图案，体现了 McCormack 通过珠宝讲故事的超凡能力，也是对 设计师新西兰血统的致敬。 McCormack最近推出了Diamond Party Jacket系列，灵感来自于18世纪流行的守护戒指， 其初始功能是用来防止其他戒指滑落。Diamond Party Jacket系列宛若钻石组成的天使光环，围绕着
同时佩戴的其他指环。 McCormack的许多创作都涉及改造成品珠宝 或宝石，将其变得更适合日常佩戴。家传珠宝，例如 代代相传的订婚戒指，是她最喜欢承接的业务，为这 些传统珠宝注入新生的机遇。 “我喜欢这些珠宝背 后的旧时代风韵，因为那就是珠宝感性的一面，是非 常重要的， ”设计师表示。 “创造的作品是有层次和诉 说着故事的。” 这些层次和故事通过“交流并体察人们的内心” 打造而成，饱含着McCormack的设计哲学。 “在人 们说话的时候，你可以观察到一些他们自己从未曾 留意的小细节；无论是他们有子女或孙辈或宠物，或 是他们生活在乡村还是对哪个地方怀有情结。”设 计成果可能是一枚被钻石围绕的、让佩戴者想起子 女蓝眼睛的宝石，或是一枚底部蚀刻着某人珍视的 重要地理坐标的钻石吊坠。 归根结底，McCormack的珠宝创作是为了建 立超越物质本身价值的情感纽带——以及对喜悦 及亲和力的共鸣。这与传统高级珠宝的理念大相 径庭——如高价值珠宝只能在特殊场合佩戴，或 总是让人感觉不自在。 “我创造的单品是可以与人 们终生相伴的；佩戴它、使用它、喜爱它、欣赏它， ” McCormac解释道。 “你会想要让它一辈子跟随你， 而不是每年只佩带一次而已。”
54: Mayfair Marvels 梅菲尔奇观 蒙特街涌现的一波新旗舰店，展示着最为炙手可热 的设计师们的作品，Harriet Quick带您游走于这片 奢华购物必访之地 步入Simone Rocha位于蒙特街（Mount Street） 的旗舰店，你会发现自己置身于一片色调柔和的空 间内，徜徉于雕塑、巨型大理石长凳、甚至凉亭之 间，里面的模特人台展示着Rocha受日本风格启发 的春夏季系列。多数试穿过她的微皱和服面料荷叶 边短裙，或束腰科技感尼龙外套的女性，都会瞬间
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与廓形的留恋，融入人们今日的欲求之中。” 这些空间为购物重新带来喜悦，并提供比百货 公司更为丰富的产品陈列、设计与服务，包括独家产 品系列。不要错过Kane的水晶流苏钥匙圈和新近 推出的运动鞋，Roksanda慵懒的女式衬衫、泳装和 Ilincic的招牌式礼服，以及Erdem首次推出的鞋履 系列。这些品牌纷纷投资建造独一无二的实体店空 间，不仅力证其背后团队的创意实力，也是这些不久 前还被视为新人的设计师们将长盛不衰的体现。
86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程：
1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 （Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小 票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 的退税点领取您的退税款。 联系方式：
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费 £30即可节约高达购买价格14%的税。请 注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管 理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取 现金退税手续费。
PHOTO: PACKSHOT FACTORY
被强大的甜蜜女性气息所折服。这间精品店傲立于 梅菲尔区（Mayfair）最负盛名的街道之一上，距离 Loewe、Céline、 Balenciaga与Marc Jacobs等超 级大牌的店铺只有咫尺之遥。Rocha到2016年九月 将满30岁，仅仅五年前她才推出自己的首个系列：然 而她已经在蒙特街拥有一席之地的事实，俨然宣告 着自己的成功。 这间店于去年九月开幕，在蒙特街以及相交 的南奥德利街（South Audley Street）上，在此 之前设立旗舰店的还包括Christopher Kane、 Roksanda Ilincic、 Nicholas Kirkwood与 Erdem Moralıoğlu等人，皆为三十多岁的设计师。 这些店铺的出现正在改变着这片区域。每间店都是 高度个性化的，完美展现着伦敦奢华新风貌的方方 面面。在这样的街区中拥有一间精品店，对这些起家 于伦敦东区仓库与工作间的设计师而言，曾是不可 想象的白日梦。其中所需资金非常巨大。然而，靠着 时尚界最大投资者们的助力，加上在独立财务运作 的成功，新一代设计师开始了商业冒险。 这些由建筑与艺术跨界塑造出的空间令人印象 深刻。Christopher Kane与极简主义建筑师 John Pawson合作，建造起两层楼的大理石庙宇，用以展 示设计师激动人心作品。 “除了衣服我不想看到其他 任何东西。吊灯！啊！沙发！啊！这么多障碍物。我不 想要任何会在五年内过时的东西。我想要一个以美 妙材质打造的超然、澄净的空间， ”Kane表示。 最近从同名品牌上撤下姓氏的Roksanda Ilincic，则联合朋友、建筑师David Adjaye，以各种 具有迷惑性的素材、微妙的色调搭配与金属饰面， 打造出让人过目难忘的店铺。 “我想为自己的作品找 个家。这里充满对比。从进门的一刹那就会感觉到 工业感、女性气息与奢华氛围，楼下则是更为内敛、 温暖、温馨的空间。我们确实有顾客一待就是好几个 小时， ”Ilincic表示。与其形成对比，Kirkwood的店 铺内整面墙都陈列着他那些雕塑版完美的俏皮高跟 鞋。每个空间的设计不只是品牌、设计师的宣言，同 样代表着他们希望为顾客带来何种购物体验。 虽然许多品牌都有时尚巨头撑腰，但Erdem Moralıoğlu却完全控制着自己的公司。这是非同寻 常的，然而，凭借可观的国际客户群体支持，他同样 获得了巨大的成功。在蒙特街的尽头向左直转，你 会见到这间外观温雅的设计师旗舰店，由他和建筑 师伙伴Philip Joseph共同打造。重新复刻的David Hockney与Jean Cocteau的铁艺、艺术作品及热带 植物，共同打造出摩登居家的氛围，完美展现着他 诗意、浪漫的设计。 “店内有一个超棒的维多利亚风 格的蕨类植物园，有我与Philip共同设计的家具， 还有来自King’s Road上Sigmar的20世纪摩登内 饰。”Moralıoğlu这样介绍店内装饰。如同这间店 铺，他的作品同样巧妙地将对于过去年代的手工艺
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PHOTO: GILBERT MCCARRAGHER
Streetوستكتشف الحيط النيق لتجر الصمم الرئيس ،الذي قام بتصميمه مع شيكه الهندس .Philip Josephتساهم البتكارات الر ّممة الصنوعة من الحديد وأعمل David Hockneyو Jean Cocteauالفنيّة ورسوم النباتات ف خلق ريفي يعرض تصاميمه الشاعرية الرومنسية بامتياز. أجواء منز ٍل ّ يقول Moralıoğluعن الديكور“ :يشتمل التجر عل حديقة فكتورية رائعة وأثاث ص ّممته مع Philipوقطع حديثة من القرن العشين من Sigmarف ”.King’s Roadعل غرار التجر، ٍ بحرف يدويّة وتصاميم من تُزاوج إبداعاته بباعة رغبات اليوم حقبة ماضية. تعيد هذه ال”واء البهجة إل التسوق وتظهر مجموعة أي متجر آخر، من النتجات والتصاميم والخدمات أكث من ّ حملت با ف ذلك الخطوط الحصيّة .اكتشف لدى ّ Kane شابات بلّوريّة وخطا ”ديدا ً للحذية الرياضيّة ،ولدى مفاتيح ب ّ Roksandaقمصانا ً منسدلة وملبس سباحة وتصاميم Ilincic الشهية للمناسبات ،ولدى Erdemوخطّاً ”ديدا ً للحذية .وتجدر ٍ مساحات فريدة الشارة إل أ ّن استثمر هذه العلمات التجارية ف من نوعها ليس دليلً عل إبداع أصحابها فحسب ،بل أيضاً عل استمراريّة هؤلء الص ّممي الذين كانوا ُ”دُدا ً منذ فتة ليست بالبعيدة.
وبالتصميم الجميل ويُبز الو”ه التعدّدة لشكل التف الجديد ف لندن .عندما بدأ هؤلء الص ّممون حياتهم الهنيّة ف مشاغل واستوديوهات شق لندن ،كانت فكرة امتلك متجر ف هكذا منطقة مج ّرد أحلم صعبة النال إذ تتطلّب استثمرات ضخمة. إل أنّه بفضل دعم أكب الستثمرين ف قطاع الزياء والنجاح الال الستقل ،تكّن هذا الجيل من الصممي من تحقيق الحلم. تتميّز هذه الساحات بشاكات هندسيّة وفنيّة باهرة .تعاون Christopher Kaneمع الهندس العمري التبسيطي John Pawsonلتنفيذ معبده الرخامي الؤلّف من طابقي ليعرض كل تصاميمه الثية بوضوح .يقول “ :Kaneسئمت النظر إل ّ الشياء باستثناء اللبس .ثريّا! أريكة! الكثي من العوائق .ل أريد أي شء سيبدو بالياً بعد خمس سنوات .أردت مساح ًة نظيفة مبتكرة من موا ٍد ”ميلة. أ ّما ،Roksanda Ilincicالتي حذفت مؤ ّخرا شهرتها من علمتها التجارية التي تحمل اسمها ،فلجأت إل صديقها الهندس David Adjayللعمل عل متجرها الرائع الميّز بوا ٍد وألوانٍ ناعمة وتفاصيل معدنيّة .تقول “ :Ilincicأردت منزلً للبس .يشتمل التجر عل تناقضات كثية؛ منذ أن تطأ عتبته ،تشعر بالطابع الصناعي النثوي الفاخر وث ّة ف الطابق السفل مساحة أكث خصوصيّة ودفئًا وراحة .يبقى بعض زبائننا لساعات” .ف القابل ،يعرض متجر Kirkwoodأحذيته الغريبة كل متجر عن العلمات يعب ّ من الرض إل السقف .بالتال،ل ّ التجاريّة فحسب ،بل أيضاً عن مص ّمميها والطريقة التي يحبّون التس ّوق فيها .ف حي تقف دور أزياء عظيمة وراء الكثي من هذه العلمات التجارية ،يتلك Erdem Moralıoğluشكته بالكامل .إنّه أمر غي مألوف ،لكن بدعم من زبائنه الكثيين حول العال ،حقّق نجاحا ً باهرا ً .ات ّجه إل أقص اليسار ف نهاية Mount
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تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من 270,000متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال. فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون كل سنة؟ ما دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق الخاص أينم تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة ّ بغلوبل بلو Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت. .2أطلب ف طريق العودة إل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد الخاصة بنا. مكاتب الستداد ّ للتّصال:
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Diamonds Are Forever :48
كن ٌز أبدي
بفضل مقاربة Jessica McCormackالعفويّة إل الجوهرات الراقية ،باتت تصاميمها الرتكزة عل الاس معقولة ومؤث ّرة ومرغوبة بشدّة -تقرير Beth Druce تغي Jessica McCormackبهدوء طريقة شاء الجوهرات. ّ الخاصة :قطع مستوحاة تبتكر مجوهرات راقية وتضفي لستها ّ من تصاميم أثرية تدمج تراث العال القديم مع أسلوب حديث تحب McCormackابتكار ما تصفه بـ”لقطة العمر”- ومبتكرّ . قطع تص ّور جزءا ً مهمً من حياة زبون ،ربا ذكرى سنوية أو ولدة – ومقاربتها مريحة وممتعة ،كم تشح ف منزلها ف Carlos .Placeتسميه منزلها لنه منزلها الفعل وكذلك لحرصها عل وجود مكان يشعر فيه زبائنها وكأنهم ف النزل ،المر الذي كان له الدور الساس ف تط ّور علمتها بعيدا ً عن السلوب التقليدي لبيع الجوهرات الفاخرة نحو خدمة تصميم شخصيّة بحسب الطلب. تقول McCormackعن أيّامها الول ف لندن“ :كنت أخش الذهاب إل أي من متاجر .”Bond Streetليس مشغلها بالخيف عل الطلق–“ .كنك الجيء إل هنا وقضاء الوقت وتصفح الكتب والستلهام .كنت أعمل ذات سبت ودخل زبائن فيم كنت حافية القدمي فسألو” :هل أنت Jessicaوهل تعملي دوماً هنا شخصيّاً؟” يتافق أسلوب McCormackالجديد العفوي إل عال الجوهرات الفاخرة مع مقاربة جديّة إل التصميم .قبل تأسيس شكتها ،عملت ف دار الزادات Sothebyحيث اكتشفت شغفها بالجوهرات الثمينة .وتروي“ :رأيت جواهر التيجان الروسية وابتكارات Cartierمن العشينات و Laliqueوأروع الجوهرات .ول أكن قد رأيت شيئاً ممثلً ف حيات كو” من نيوزيلندا ”.تلك كانت ال ّرة الول التي أث ّر فيها الاس ومذّاك يتميّز عملها بهذه الحجار الكر–ة .وتضيف“ :الاس مه ٌم جدا ً بالنسبة إل ما أقوم به الن لكن أتيّز عن غيي بطريقة اختياري الاس ونظرت إليه .الجميع مهووس بالشهادات والحقائق والرقام وبتويج الاس إل أقص درجة .أ ّما أنا ،فأنظر إل الاس وكأنني أنظر إل قطعة فنيّة وأفكر إن كانت جميلة وإن كنت أرغب بها”. تشمل تصاميم McCormackالميزة أقرا’ Wing of Desireالستوحاة من مراسل آلهة الغريق Hermès بصندله الج ّنح .تُصنع القرا’ بحسب الطلب وتتمتّع بحجر ٍ ماس أساس ذي قطعٍ ب ّراق وبعض الحجار المثلة الحيطة ،ويوضع بتصويب الجناحي ال العل أو السفل ،حسب مزاج الشخص .أ ّما أقرا’ Tattooالدائريّة ،فمصنوعة من 500قطعة من الاس ذي القطع ال ّباق الرصوف وتشبه أوشام الاوري ،وهي مثال عل قدرة McCormackعل رواية القصص من خلل الجوهرات، وإشارة إل جذورها النيوزيلندية. كشفت McCormackمؤخرا ً عن مجموعة Diamond ،Party Jacketالستوحاة من الخاتم الحارس الذي شاع ف القرن الـ ،18وكان يوضع لحمية الخواتم الخرى ومنعها من النزلق .مجوعة Diamond Party Jacketsهي عبارة عن هالت من الاس ملتفّة حول أي خاتم آخر. تتضمن الكثي من إبداعات McCormackإعادة صياغة
أحجار كر–ة أو تحويل قطع موجودة أصلً إل ابتكارات أكث عمليّة .فالقطع التوارثة ضمن العائلة الواحدة ،مثل خواتم الحب إل قلبها ،إذ الخطوبة التي تنتقل عب الجيال ،هي العمل ّ تنحها الفرصة لتبعث حياة جديدة ف قطع تراثيّة .تقول الصممة: “ أحب ذلك الحساس القديم الذي تحمله ،ل ّن هذا الجانب حق .فلهذه القطع طبقات وقصص ترويها”. العاطفي هو الهم عن ّ ت ُبتكر تلك الطبقات والقصص من خلل “محادثات مع الشخص وخلصات من حديثه” ،وهو تبادل يجسد فلسفة “ .McCormackتلفت انتباهي أمور بسيطة ل يدركون حتّى أنهم يقولونها :تستنتج إن كان لديهم أطفال أو أحفاد أو حيوانات أو كانوا يعيشون ف الريف أو يشعرون بالنتمء إل مكان ما”. قد تكون النتيجة ماس ًة بجانب أحجا ٍر تُذكّر بعينيي زرقاوين لبن الزبون أو قلدة من الاس محفورة من السفل بالحداثيات الجغرافية لماكن عزيزة عل قلبه. تتمثّل أعمل McCormackبابتكار مجوهرات ذات روابط عاطفيّة تتجاوز القيمة الادية للقطعة – يرافقها شعو ٌر كل البعد عن الفاهيم التقليدية بالرح والوئام .هذا السلوب بعيد ّ لصناعة الجوهرات الراقية؛ كالشعور بوجوب الحتفاظ بالقطع الثمينة للمناسبات الخاصة ،أو التعامل معها بإجل ٍل مفر’ .تشح McCormackقائلة “ :أبتكر قطعاً –كن الناس أن يعيشوا معها طوال حياتهم؛ يرتدونها ،يستخدمونها ،يحبونها ،يقدّرونها .ل ب ّد للمجوهرات أن تعيش معك وليس أن تكون مجرد شء ترتديه م ّرة واحدة ف السنة”. Mayfair Marvels :54 روائع Mayfair تعرض موجة من التاجر الرئيسية الجديدة ف منطقة Mount Streetأعمل بعض الصممي الذائعي الصيت -تقوم Harriet Quickبجولة ف هذه النطقة الفاخرة الجديرة بالزيارة ما إن تدخل متجر Simone Rochaالرئيس ف Mount ،Streetحتّى تجد نفسك تجول ف مساحة هادئة اللوان تتأ ّمل النحوتات والقاعد الرخامية العملقة وحتى الكشاك التي تحوي عارضات ترتدين مجموعة Rochaالستوحاة من اليابان للربيع/ الصيف .تشعر معظم النساء اللوات يج ّربن التنورة الصنوعة من نسيج الكيمونو الج ّعد أو ستة النايلون ذات العقدة العريضة بانجذاب فوري إل قواعد النوثة الثائرة التي تفرضها العلمة .يقع التجر بفخر ف أحد أرقى شوارع ،Mayfairعل مرمى حجر من محلت علمات تجاريّة عظيمة مثل LoeweوCéline و Balenciagaو .Marc Jacobsوبالرغم من أ ّن Rochaما زالت ف الـ 29من العمر ،قدّمت مجموعتها الول منذ خمس سنوات .ومج ّرد وجودها الفعل ف Mount Streetانتصار بح ّد ذاته. افتتح التجر ف أيلول/سبتمب الاض عقب افتتاح متاجر رئيسيّة أخرى ف Mount Streetوشارع South Audleyالتقاطع للمص ّممي Christopher Kane و Nicholas KirkwoodوErdem ،Moralıoğluوكلّهم ف العقد الثالث من العمر .يح ّول وجود هذه الحلت هويّة النطقة .يتمتّع كل متجر بالفرديّة globalblue.com
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ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية Scent Especially For You :42
عط ٌر خاص بك
تقدّم أبرز دور العطور ف لندن خدمة تركيب عطور بحسب طلب زبائنها الميّزين .تشي Frances Wasemإل السمء الجديرة بالذكر ابتكر الص ّمم Hubert de Givenchyسنة 1957عطرا ً للهمته .Audrey Hepburnوقد ُركّب عطر L’Interdit (أي الح ّرم) الناعم الغني برائحة الزهور لـ Hepburnحصيّاً،
PHOTO: CHUCK NOBLE
وكان يُصنع لها وحدها لعدّة سنوات .إل أن سمحت المثّلة ف الستّينات أن يُتاح للجميع. يثبت L’Interditقدرة العطر الركّب بحسب الطلب كل شخص بالطبع عل التعبي عن روحيّة واضعه الفريدة .يرغب ّ يعب عنه .وف زمن العطور التجاريّة والعلمات بامتلك عطر ّ الكبى والخيارات التعدّدة ،بدا ذلك حلمً بعيد النال ،لكن سعان ما تحقّق. تلجأ سللة جديدة من دور العطور البيطانية ف لندن ال كتب التاريخ بحثًا عن اللهام ،وبالتحديد إل القرن الـ ،18عندما استخدم العطّارون مك ّونات طبيعيّة بالكامل من أجود النواع. وكان ابتكار العطور بحسب الطلب ف ذلك الوقت يستغرق حوال السنة ،لكن بفضل التكنولوجيا الحديثة اليوم ،باتت العمليّة أسهل وفُتحت ٌ آفاق جديدة للعطّارين ف هذا الجال. افتتحت Lyn Harrisالسنة الاضية محتفاً أنيقاً للعطور الركّبة بحسب الطلب ،Perfumer Hف منطقة Maryleboneالعصية ف لندن .وجدي ٌر بالذكر أ ّن ،Harris الحب إل قلب اللّندنيّي Miller مؤسسة دار العطور الفاخر ّ ،Harrisهي النف النثوي الوحيد التد ّرب كلسيكيّاً عل اختبار العطور ف الملكة التحدة .تركّز ف محتفها الجديد عل الفرد، آمل ًة توفي عطور مركّبة بحسب الطلب لجمهو ٍر أكب و”إعادة الواد الطبيعيّة إل عال صناعة العطور” ،عل ح ّد قولها. تقدم مجموعة Perfumer Hثلثة مستويات من كل الحصيّة .عطور Seasonal Editionsجاهزة لكن بعيدة ّ البعد عن العطور التجاريّة ،وعطور Laboratory Editions هي عبارة عن تركيبات قدية وجديدة يج ّربها الزبائن ف مختب الدار ويطلبونها عل الفور .يكنك أن تجد عطرا ً يعجبك وتصبح التكيبة ملكك ومس ّجلة حصيّاً باسمك لقاء 1500جنيه استليني .أ ّما العطور الركّبة بحسب الطلب ،فتبدأ من 1500 جنيه استليني. ث ّة دار عطور بريطا” آخر يركّب عطورا ً بحسب الطلب وهو .Roja Doveعمل Doveف Guerlainلعشين سنة ويعتقد أ ّن الفرا’ ف تسويق العطور يد ّمر القطاع .يقول ف هذا الصدد“ :أضعفت الشكات الكبى صناعة العطور الكلسيكية من خلل التسويق” .قدّم Doveسنة 2001خدمة تركيب العطور بحسب الطلب لقاء ما يقارب 25000جنيه استليني وتشمل مرطّباًت للجسم وشموعاً وعطورا ً .ويشي إل أنّه ل يُكشف أبدا ً عن تركيبة العطر الخاص النهائية .أ ّما ف Roja Dove Haute Parfumerieالذي افتُتح ف متجر Harrodsسنة ،2004
فيجري تعريف الزبون بالعطور العروضة ليعث عل العطر الذي يعب عن شخصيّته بصدق -لذا ليست خدمة تركيب عطور بحسب ّ الطلب بل إيجاد “العطر الناسب” .كم أعاد Doveتقديم عطو ٍر كلسيكيّة مثل Dioramaمن Diorو Ombre Rose موسعاً دائرة الخيارات أمام من ّ ،Jean-Charles Brosseau الزبائن الباحثي عن شء مختلف. افتتحت العطّارة العاصة Azzi Glasserمحتفاً لتكيب العطور بحسب الطلب ف مشغلها ف لندن ف تشين ال ّول/ أوكتوبر الفائت .تُحجز الواعيد عب خدمة الستقبال ف متجر .Harvey Nicholsوقد ابتكرت Glasserعطو ًرا بحسب الطلب لشاهي هوليوود مثل Johnny Deppو Helena Bonham Carterو .Jude Lawف خلل استشارة مط ّولة، تأخذ Glasserبعي العتبار شخصيّة الزبون والروائح التي يحبها ويكرهها وأسلوبه الشخص لتكّب عطرا ً “يعكس جيناته”. والغريب أنّها تعمل بصيّاً .تشح قائلة“ :يكنني أن أتص ّور رائحة العطر وشكله قبل أن أبدأ بتكيبه” .وتجد الزبائن متح ّمسي للنتائج .يقول “ :Lawابتكرت ل عط ًرا أشعر أنّني لطالا وضعته، إنّه ذات ،لكن ل يكن ف زجاجة من قبل”. توسع دور العطور ليست العطور وحدها الفريدة من نوعهاّ . تجربة تركيب العطور بحسب الطلب لتشمل الزجاجات التي تحوي العطور .تُنفخ زجاجات Lyn Harrisيدويّاً ف إنجلتا، فتستحيل فريدة من نوعها وجاذبة لهواة جمع القوارير .وتُقدّم عطور Roja Doveف زجاجات بلّورية من ،Baccaratمزخرفة ٍ بحروف ذهبيّة عن طريق الطباعة الحريريّة اليدويّة. العطور الركّبة بحسب الطلب هي الصيحة الحدث ف مجال التف الحقيقي ،إذ باتت تك ّمل أي مظهر تاماً كحقيبة ٍيد مثالية “يعب عطر وحذا ٍء مناسب .قال Christian Diorذات م ّرةّ : الرأة عنها أكث من خ ّط يدها”.لذا ،احرص أن تقدّم للعال من خلل عطرك الشخص الذي يثّلك عن حق”.
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