SHOP London Lux SS17

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LONDON

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Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2017

Page 38 LONDON TALENT: meet the creative young designers transforming the British fashion scene

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this creative, buzzing capital city. London has much to offer, as our guide on page 56 reveals. Readers who appreciate cutting-edge style will enjoy our introduction to some of London’s brightest new talents (page 38) and, in this issue, we also explore the see now, buy now trend that gives instant post-show access to some of the UK’s top fashion brands (page 44). For watch lovers, we profile British timepiece brand Bremont (page 48). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14% when shopping in the UK. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in London. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without filling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

CONTRIBUTORS

Sally McIlhone As SHOP’s deputy editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally has contributed to ShortList, Stylist and Total Film online. globalblue.com

Stephen Doig SHOP’s former features editor Stephen Doig is now men’s style editor and assistant luxury editor at the Telegraph; he has also written for Vogue, GQ and the Financial Times. His weaknesses include red wine and good cheese.

Harriet Quick Fashion journalist Harriet Quick has held senior roles at the Guardian newspaper and British Vogue, where she was the title’s fashion features director for over a decade. She has interviewed many of the world’s biggest fashion stars.

ILLUSTRATION: NEIL WEBB

Neil Webb Neil Webb’s illustration for this season’s edition of SHOP London Luxury shows a catwalk scene of women wearing London landmarks transformed into dresses. His stylish artwork was inspired by our feature on the capital’s up-and-coming young designers (page 38). Neil’s other clients include the BBC, Time Out and the Economist. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Neil Webb Contributors Stephen Doig, Madeleine Murray-Lyons, Harriet Quick Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion assistant Rebecca Rhys-Evans News editor Ginger Rose Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworker Milkha Lala Artworker Samantha Junak Artworking assistants Shirley Lau, Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Natalie Schroeter AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian

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Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2017 Global Blue

CONTENTS PAGE

PAGE

PRODUCTS

NEWS

Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from London this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of the best dressed during London Fashion Week and London Collections Men

Style On Demand The see now, buy now trend gives purchasers immediate post-show access to collections from some top British brands. Sally McIlhone investigates

Time For Adventure Bremont is one of the UK’s most respected watchmakers. Founder Giles English tells Stephen Doig about the company’s uniquely British take on timepieces

Shop Window One store not to be missed in London News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

FEATURES 38

Cover story:

Britain’s Got Talent London’s emerging designers are going from strength to strength. Harriet Quick introduces the names to know

Above (from left): the beautifully renovated Harry Winston boutique on New Bond Street; Burberry February 2017 collection

PHOTO (FROM LEFT): TIM GRIFFITHS; COURTESY OF BURBERRY

LO N D O N HARRODS

194 - 195 S LO A N E ST R E E T 87 - 13 5 B R O M P TO N R O A D

AUCHTERARDER

+ 4 4 2 07 24 598 0 0 + 4 4 2 0 7 73 0 12 34

THE GLENEAGLES HOTEL E S C A DA . COM

+ 4 4 1764 6 6 04 4 0

CONTENTS EXPERIENCE

ESSENTIALS

Table Talk London’s best tasting menus offer all the originality and flair you would expect in a city known for fine food, says Madeleine Murray-Lyons

GUIDE 56

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of London, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

PAGE

TRANSLATIONS 77 美文翻译 79 Русский Перевод 87

SOUVENIR 88

The essential item to bring home

E NGL IS H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE...

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- GlobalBlue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent Above: the inviting interior of the Michelin-starred Clove Club restaurant

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru globalblue.cn 每日更新精品购物信息，分享海外省钱秘笈

CH ECK OUT

FINELY HONED The Linley brand was founded by David ArmstrongJones, son of the late Princess Margaret and photographer Antony Armstrong-Jones. Professionally known as David Linley, he has been creating some of London’s finest artisanal furniture and home accessories for over 30 years. Linley, who inherited

his father’s title of Earl of Snowdon this year, opened his first shop on the New King’s Road in 1985; his brand is now one of the most recognised in London, with collections including luxury gifts and bespoke furniture, and a thriving interior design business. Like all Linley items, this Pink Diamond box is exquisitely constructed. Crafted in iridescent mother-of-pearl and three

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different woods, its geometric shape resembles that of a cut diamond. The brand’s heritage makes the Pink Diamond box a collector’s investment piece as well as a beautiful object. rre Linley Pink Diamond box, £9,500, Linley, 60 Pimlico Road, London SW1W 8LP, +44 (0)20 7730 7300, davidlinley.com

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CITY SLICKER Balance your summer style with accessories that give your look an urban edge

1. Longines Conquest Classic watch, £6,810, Longines, 411 Oxford Street, London W1C 2PE, +44 (0)20 7409 1473, longines.com

3. Sandqvist backpack, £299, Sandqvist, 79 Berwick Street, London W1F 8TL, +44 (0)20 7434 0727, sandqvist.net

5. Marshall Major II Bluetooth headphones, £129, Marshall, Boxpark, 2-10 Bethnal Green Road, London E1 6GY, +44 (0)20 7033 2899, marshallheadphones.com

2. Thomas Sabo bracelet, £215, Thomas Sabo, 65 South Molton Street, London W1K 5SU, +44 (0)20 3298 0147, thomassabo.com

4. Moncler sunglasses, £330, Moncler, 197 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QX, +44 (0)20 7235 0857, moncler.com

6. Balenciaga boots, £595, Balenciaga, 12 Mount Street, London W1K 2RD, +44 (0)20 7317 4400, balenciaga.com

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PHOTOS: (5) JOAKIM EKLÖF; (6) BENOIT FATOU

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SHARP TAILORING Layer classic black with modern touches of red and blue for an elegant take on suiting for spring

1. Vivienne Westwood blazer, £770, Vivienne Westwood, 44 Conduit Street, London W1S 2YL, +44 (0)20 7439 1109, viviennewestwood.com

3. Thierry Lasry sunglasses, £415, Dover Street Market, 18-22 Haymarket, London SW1Y 4DG, +44 (0)20 7518 0680, thierrylasry.com

2. Jo Malone Myrrh & Tonka cologne, 50ml, £74, 100ml, £105, Jo Malone, 11 King Street, London WC2E 8HN, +44 (0)370 192 5771, jomalone.com

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4. Mulberry handbag, £950, Mulberry, 50 New Bond Street, London W1S 1BJ, +44 (0)20 7491 3900, mulberry.com

PHOTO: (3) NICOLAS LOUIS

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5. Marc Cain trousers, £225, Peter Jones, Sloane Square, London SW1W 8EL, +44 (0)20 7730 3434, marc-cain.com

7. Marni earrings, £530, Marni, 26 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9NE, +44 (0)20 7245 9520, marni.com

6. Silken Favours scarf, £150, Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, silkenfavours.com

8. Chanel Allure lipstick, £28, Chanel, 158-159 New Bond Street, London W1S 2UB, +44 (0)20 7493 5040, chanel.com

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9. Nicholas Kirkwood shoes, £425, Nicholas Kirkwood, 5 Mount Street, London W1K 3NE, +44 (0)20 7290 1404, nicholaskirkwood.com

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CANDY CRUSH 2

Fill your summer wardrobe with sweet pastels and soft floral prints 1

1. The Kooples dress, £348, The Kooples, 69 Brompton Road, London SW3 1DB, +44 (0)20 7581 2272, thekooples.com

3. Miu Miu bag, £1,460, Miu Miu, 150 New Bond Street, London W1S 2TU, +44 (0)20 7409 0900, miumiu.com

2. Lily Gabriella earrings, £25,500, Kabiri, 94 Marylebone Lane, London W1U 2PZ, +44 (0)20 7317 2150, lilygabriella.com

4. Charlotte Tilbury lipstick, £23, Charlotte Tilbury, 11-12 James Street, London WC2E 8BT, +44 (0)20 3846 9469, charlottetilbury.com

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5. Givenchy shoes, price on request, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, givenchy.com

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Natural, earthy tones and olive greens were popular at London Fashion Week this year, with outfits featuring accents of gold and yellow from Fendi and Saint Laurent

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PHOTOS : MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

STREET ST YLE

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London Collections Men saw a casual take on the twopiece, albeit with stiff collars and pinstripe trousers; some attendees kept their suits springappropriate by daring to bare their ankles

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PHOTOS: HYWELL JENKINS

STREET ST YLE

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SHOP WINDOW

Legendary jeweller Harry Winston’s flagship London salon has reopened after an extensive nine-month renovation. Situated on Mayfair’s luxury-lined New Bond Street, the redesigned store is home to the brand’s most exquisite fine jewellery and timepieces, featuring some of the rarest diamonds

and gemstones available today. The store’s façade, rebuilt to feature the distinctive Harry Winston archway, is reminiscent of the brand’s Fifth Avenue flagship store. Inside, the space has been redesigned in the style of a grand private home, with antique bronze and customdesigned black lacquer

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furniture, bespoke chandeliers and hand-beaded silk walls, ensuring the store itself is one of Mayfair’s most exquisite gems. rp Harry Winston, 171 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RD, +44 (0)20 7907 8800, harrywinston.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 63

PHOTO: TIM GRIFFITHS

KING OF DIAMONDS

MADE IN boggi.com

London | 49 Jermyn Street | Tel. +44 20 7629.24.95 | 28 Sloane Square | Tel. +44 20 7823.50.44

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MODERN LOOK Diesel’s recently opened concept store, located between London’s prestigious Harrods and Harvey Nichols shopping landmarks, presents the brand’s new retail design concept. Designed by Japanese architecture firm Wonderwall and Diesel’s own artistic director Nicola Formichetti, the flagship houses the brand’s men’s and women’s collections over two storeys. The contemporary interior was inspired by modern living, with a focus on technology; finishing touches include high-definition screens and a system that eliminates pollution from the street outside. The striking space has a sleek, industrial feel balanced out by antique furniture and luxurious Persian rugs. Womenswear is on the ground floor and you will find the latest men’s collections in the basement. km Diesel, 73 Brompton Road, London SW3 1DB, +44 (0)20 7589 6311, diesel.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 67

PERFECT MATCH Nathalie Trad’s distinctive asymmetric design style and craft skill with natural materials make her a perfect collaborator for renowned London-based shoe designer Rupert Sanderson. The result of this design marriage is a remake of two classic Sanderson shoes. The Issey style comes in metallic silver or classic black suede, with a laced fastening and graphic cut-out sides. Available in both tawny and black shades, the Rayelle (pictured, £745) is a heeled front-fastening

sandal with striking cut-out details. Both styles feature a distinctive block heel in Trad’s signature materials, which include mother-ofpearl and agate. km

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Rupert Sanderson, 19 Bruton Place, London W1J 6LZ, +44 (0)20 7491 2260, rupertsanderson.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 62

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IN BRIEF Cycling specialist Brompton and leather goods label The Cambridge Satchel Company, two quintessentially English brands, have joined forces this season. The collaboration consists of a bicycle and dual-branded bags in a choice of three colours

COACH ARRIVES ON REGENT STREET

CLEAR VISION

Leading New York brand Coach has opened a new flagship store on London’s Regent Street, starting a new chapter of the brand’s 75-year history. The boutique was designed by creative director Stuart Vevers, a Brit himself, in partnership with architect and interior designer William Sofield, and references the style and architecture of its Fifth Avenue counterpart. It carries Coach’s ready-to-wear men’s and women’s collections, the Coach 1941 range and its much-lauded accessories. At the Craftsmanship Bar on the ground floor, customers can have their new purchases monogrammed and customised by one of Coach’s expert staff. rp Coach, 206 Regent Street, London W1B 5BN, +44 (0)20 7734 8472, coach.com

Spring 2017 sees Belstaff branch out into eyewear. The British brand has extended its innovative, fashion-forward look to reinventing classic eyewear styles. The aviator is revisited with the signature Belstaff leather added to the bridge, while rounder styles feature meshpanelled blinkers along their arms. The collection features both sunglasses and optical lenses, all hand-made in Japan. km Belstaff, 135-137 New Bond Street, London W1S 2TQ, +44 (0)20 7495 5897, belstaff.co.uk

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BLOOMING BOUQUET In January 2017, Salvatore Ferragamo launched Signorina in Fiore, the latest addition to the Signorina fragrance collection launched in 2011. The scent combines the floral and the fruity in a celebration of femininity: the Italian title refers to the way a girl in love blossoms like a flower. Top notes of nashi pear sorbet and pomegranate make way for middle notes of jasmine and cherry blossom, underpinned by base notes of white musk and sandalwood. The references to blossoming are carried through to the bottle’s

design, which resembles a blooming pink flower. The eau de toilette is available in 30ml, 50ml and 100ml bottles, at £36, £50 and £72 respectively. grc

JOINING FORCES Ally Capellino called upon Studio Nicholson to design a new bag for spring/ summer 2017. The union of these two creative forces resulted in a bag which conveys the identity of both British brands. Quality of design, practicality and elegance combine in the soft Piero bucket bag (£600), which is made from a grainy Spanish leather. Unlined, it opens up to reveal smooth suede on the flipside of the hide. Black metalwork and a webbing strap add subtle detailing to the dark navy bag, while the embossed initials of both brands provide the final touch. Made in London, this bag is a great example of the boundless creative vision of contemporary British brands. grc Ally Capellino, 11 New Cavendish Street, London W1G 9UD, +44 (0)20 7224 0648, allycapellino.co.uk globalblue.com

Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, ferragamo.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 67

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MCM’S NEW HOME MCM has opened a new flagship in the heart of London, housing the German brand’s covetable ready-to-wear collections for men and women, as well as footwear and accessories. Inside, oak floors and walls are tastefully paired with light bronze metal plating on furniture and in the sales area, in addition to mirrored walls in a darker bronze. This exquisite combination is a reflection of the brand’s ties to craftsmanship as well as its dedication to quality and detail. The store opened at the end of 2016, bringing to a close a momentous year which saw the brand celebrate its 40th anniversary with various events. grc MCM, 16 Conduit Street, London W1S 2XL, +44 (0)20 7409 2047, mcmworldwide.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 64

Under Jonathan Anderson’s inspired direction, Loewe’s collection for the season is marked by a soft, feminine look with a play on volume and texture. This season’s staples, including lace, ruffles and bias cuts, are reworked with a modern approach, while undergarments and domestic items such as tablecloths serve as inspiration for dresses, skirts and tops. Outfits are accompanied by the statement bags for which Loewe is well known, from soft leather briefcases in a rich yellow hue to the pictured barrel bag, a

structured style in dark tan (£1,495). With its pleasingly simple but distinctive look, this bag is a sure way to add a unique twist to your outfit. grc

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Loewe, 125 Mount Street, London W1K 3NS, +44 (0)20 7499 0266, loewe.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 62

PHOTO: (TOP) STEPHEN POVER

FOLLOWING THE ZEITGEIST

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HEIGHT OF LUXURY Giuseppe Zanotti has unveiled a new London flagship store, located in a beautiful Grade II listed Georgian building. While the interior design retains key historic features, it also reflects the brand’s predilection for clean lines and geometric elements, using superb materials such as white boiserie and marble. The space is characterised by its light and airy

qualities, with a large bay window to the front and a garden area at the back. The store carries the brand’s luxurious collections, from footwear and ready-to-wear to jewellery. Highlights to look out for include the bridal section and the Giuseppe Junior collection, which was introduced last year. grc Giuseppe Zanotti, 46 Conduit Street, London W1S 2YW, +44 (0)20 7734 8827, giuseppezanottidesign.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 64

FOLLOW THE BUFFALO

PHOTO: (TOP) JAMIE MCGREGOR SMITH

Leather goods brand Il Bisonte, known for its distinctive buffalo logo, has opened a new store on Neal Street, bringing a touch of Italian craftsmanship to this renowned London shopping destination. Founder Wanny Di Filippo made his first bags in a workshop in Florence in 1969; over the years the brand has grown into an international name, without ever losing site of Di Filippo’s artisanal vision. Il Bisonte’s Italian craftsmen continue to use their expertise to turn cowhide into beautiful leather products. Stop by the new Covent Garden store to discover the brand’s enticing offering. grc Il Bisonte, 21 Neal Street, London WC2H 9PU, +44 (0)20 7240 1076, ilbisonte.com globalblue.com

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IN FOCUS: TAILORING FOR TRAVEL This season some of Britain’s best tailors present us with travel-friendly tailoring for a dapper on-the-go look.

THOM SWEENEY

PAUL SMITH

Thom Sweeney was founded in 2006 by Thom Whiddett and Luke Sweeney, who both previously worked at Timothy Everest. For spring/summer 2017 the brand presents holiday-friendly suiting for the warm months, including the pictured suit. Thanks to the use of Solaro, a fabric made of two colours of yarn woven to reflect light, the suit helps keep the wearer cool. Wearing a suit in summer need never be a daunting prospect again. Thom Sweeney Solaro Stripe jacket, £1,185, and Solaro Stripe trousers, £395, Thom Sweeney, 33A Bruton Place, London W1J 6NP, +44 (0)20 3475 2044, thomsweeney.co.uk

Introduced in autumn/winter 2015, A Suit to Travel In has become a Paul Smith staple. This season the suits appear in jewel colours from turquoise to damson, in addition to more classic shades such as simple black. The suits are made from a high-twist 100% worsted wool cloth whose bounce-back nature makes the fabric crease-resistant. Whether you opt for a vibrant green or a grey houndstooth, this is bound to become the go-to suit if you are a keen traveller. Paul Smith A Suit to Travel In, from £760, Paul Smith, 40-44 Floral Street, London WC2E 9TB, +44 (0)20 7379 7133, paulsmith.co.uk

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PHOTO: (3) JAMIE MCGREGOR SMITH

TURNBULL & ASSER

RICHARD JAMES

For spring/summer 2017 Turnbull & Asser presents tailored pieces made of the finest Australian merino wool, made extra travel friendly by buggy lining – partial lining concentrated over the yoke, also known as butterfly lining. This lighter lining, combined with natural fibre, means the tailoring stands out for its breathable qualities. Pair the pictured double-breasted jacket with one of the brand’s shirts made of crease-resistant Journey cloth. Turnbull & Asser Bromley doublebreasted jacket, £1,100, Turnbull & Asser, 71-72 Jermyn Street, London SW1Y 6PF, +44 (0)20 7808 3000, turnbullandasser.co.uk

The crease-free Hyde travel suit by Richard James is a practical and stylish option for men who travel for business regularly. The suit is made of high-twist wool lined in satin and is available in airforce blue, navy or charcoal. Cut from Richard James’s trademark Hyde block, it can easily be altered to suit all body shapes. Founded in 1992, Richard James belongs to the new generation of tailors on Savile Row and can be counted on for first-class tailoring. Richard James Hyde travel suit, £745, Richard James, 29 Savile Row, London W1S 2EY, +44 (0)20 7434 0605, richardjames.co.uk

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PHOTOS: PHOTO:(TOP XXXXXXX LEFT) WALES BONNER; (TOP MIDDLE AND RIGHT, MIDDLE, MIDDLE RIGHT AND BOTTOM LEFT) GORUNWAY.COM

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77caption xxxxx qui officiducius 79 ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi quis cum facil Above: English 87

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BRITAIN’S GOT TALENT London’s emerging designers are going from strength to strength. Harriet Quick introduces the names to know

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

here once ‘emerging talent’ and ‘avant-garde’ equated to interesting but not very wearable garments, the latest generation of London designers places customer and commerce firmly in the picture. The array of visions present on the catwalks is remarkable, from Molly Goddard’s intricately detailed tulle dresses to the embellished haute streetwear of Roberta Einer. What unites these disparate aesthetics is a sense of fearlessness that’s bringing in a new wave of style. And while these clothes are happy to push boundaries, they are designed with real clients in mind. Molly Goddard, whose clothes can be found at Dover Street Market, makes a brave stand by being very singular. Her ‘anti-fit’,

subtly colourful tulle gowns look as great over jeans as they do over a slip dress and her highly feminine, almost girlish, dresses have placed her firmly on the map. She staged her London Fashion Week presentation as a faux rave, with a diversity of models dancing on a podium at the show’s end. Fashion thrives on exuberant statements that unite and communicate, and Goddard’s feminist statement is bold yet light-hearted. A similarly joyous expression can be found in the work of Estonian-born Roberta Einer, who learned the craft of embellishment at Balmain in Paris. Imagine an outsize leather bomber jacket covered in a mosaic of applique graffiti motifs and embroidery, or a long, slim

Opposite (from top left): Wales Bonner; Roberta Einer; Fashion East presents AV Robertson; Faustine Steinmetz; Fashion East presents Richard Malone; Molly Goddard; Roberta Einer; Wales Bonner; Faustine Steinmetz, all spring/summer 2017

skirt with beaded pockets. ‘Each garment takes many hours – but I want to create something special,’ says Einer, whose pieces can be found at prestigious retailers including Saks Fifth Avenue in New York. ‘Fashion is about bravery and I want to transmit confidence,’ she says. This season, drawing on the graphics of contemporary illustrators Yoko Honda and Jiro Bevis, the designer playfully re-imagines 1980s poolside poster art in her trademark embellishment. Highly worked fabrics feature botanicals and tropical birds, layered together with pen-andink figures in a vivid homage

to the surfside city of Miami. ‘I was looking at Miami’s art scene in the 1970s when it was still riding the wave of pop art,’ explains Einer, who toured the city’s art galleries and botanical gardens for inspiration. Einer is part of the Swarovski Collective, a programme that funds and supports young talent in fashion. Two other members are young London designers Faustine Steinmetz and Grace Wales Bonner. Steinmetz specialises in handcrafted denim and takes pleasure in raising the ordinary and generic into something extraordinary. ‘Denim was the first fabric

Above (clockwise from top left): Molly Goddard; Roberta Einer; Faustine Steinmetz, all spring/summer 2017

PHOTOS: (TOP BOTH) © GORUNWAY.COM

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I really ever experimented with,’ says the Paris-born, London- based designer, who recently displayed a pair of recycled jeans with 60,000 cerulean Swarovksi crystals embedded into foam as part of her tableau vivant at London Fashion Week. So impressive is her denim research and development that Steinmetz is now employed by others as a specialist consultant on the fabric. It’s not just womenswear designers making waves. Grace Wales Bonner, who graduated from Central St Martins in 2014, is achieving great acclaim for her menswear, which is characterised Above (from left): Wales Bonner; Fashion East presents Richard Malone, both spring/summer 2017

PHOTOS (FROM LEFT): WALES BONNER; © GORUNWAY.COM

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PHOTO (TOP) : COURTESY OF CHAOS

by languid tailoring. She weaves culture, character and collective memories into clothes that speak with depth and emotion, a skill that was publicly recognised when she was awarded the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers in 2016. The most exciting thing about Wales Bonner is her dismissal of traditional ideas of gender in fashion. Her collections may be nominally menswear but women covet them as much as men do, and they have been bought by prestigious retailers such as Matches as part of their spring/summer 2017 women’s collections.

London is known for nurturing its local talent. Fashion East, the not-forprofit platform established by entrepreneur Lulu Kennedy in 2000, is one of the city’s most important supporters of young designers. Jonathan Saunders, Simone Rocha and Roksanda Ilincic are all previous beneficiaries. Recent alumni include Mimi Wade, known for her handpainted leathers; Caitlin Price, who specialises in tailored silk satin clubwear; and Craig Green, who fuses Asian aesthetics and casual cool in his menswear that is notably beloved by women. All three designers are sold at Selfridges in the new Designer Studio, alongside more established but equally experimental labels such as Marques Almeida and Christopher Kane. In the new David Chipperfield-designed Accessories Hall, you will find Chaos, a line of phone and travel accessories developed by stylists and consultants Charlotte Stockdale and Katie Lyall; iPhone cases are crafted in deerskin and there are giant initial tags and keyrings to attach to luggage and handbags, proving London’s idiosyncratic design spirit is not limited by size. As we turn away from metatrends to embrace the individual and the different, London’s crop of emerging talents is poised to feed that desire. Enter into these designers’ worlds and you will discover a micro-universe of ideas and sentiments. Some you will adore, others you might not, but what you will never encounter is mediocrity

Above (from top): Chaos pink leather iPhone case with black carbon initials; Christopher Kane spring/summer 2017

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STYLE ON DEMAND The see now, buy now trend gives purchasers immediate post-show access to collections from some top British brands. Sally McIlhone investigates

PHOTO: © XXXXXXX GORUNWAY.COM

n a cash-rich, time-poor society, today’s consumers want the convenience of having the essentials brought to them. And for the most style-savvy luxury clients, the essentials include the latest designs from the most cutting-edge international brands. Rather than seeking out these designs in store when the new season rolls around, there has been a shift towards being able to shop for pieces as soon as the final model has stepped off the catwalk. Why should you wait months to buy your desired garment? Thanks to this trend, known as see now, buy now, patience no longer has to be a virtue of the fashion fan. Burberry has always been ahead of the curve when it comes to incorporating trends and technology into the way it does business

and this season was no exception. As early as February 2016, the brand announced it would be cutting back from four shows a year to two. These shows would combine its menswear and womenswear offerings – and allow the full collections to be purchased immediately after the February and September shows, both in store and online, with delivery available to over 100 countries worldwide. The brand also streamlined its three lines – formerly Prorsum, London and Brit – into one unified Burberry label aimed at style fans the world over. ‘The changes we are making will allow us to build a closer connection between the experience that we create with our runway shows and the moment when people can physically explore the collections for

Above: Russian caption xxxxx qui officiducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi q Opposite: Topshop Unique September 2016

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collection’s most exceptional and expensive pieces – was among the Burberry bestsellers. Unsurprisingly, Burberry has continued its successful formula in its latest collection, February 2017. Topshop Unique is another British brand experimenting with runway to retail, offering a refined edit of the spring/summer 2017 collection on its website and in selected stores worldwide straight after the brand’s London Fashion Week catwalk show at Old Spitalfields Market in September 2016. In keeping with the theme of the venue, the brand also gave purchasers the chance to snap up the collection at a pop-up ‘market stall’. ‘The response was fantastic. We achieved great sales from all over the world both in stores and via Topshop.com – our customers are clearly early adopters,’ says Jacqui Markham, Topshop’s global design director. The trend also allows brands to monitor which catwalk items are most instantly appealing. ‘Everything zebra print was snapped up and themselves,’ explained Christopher Bailey, then Burberry’s chief executive officer and chief creative. ‘Our shows have been evolving to close this gap for some time. From livestreams to ordering straight from the runway to live social media campaigns, this is the latest step in a creative process that will continue to evolve.’ Not only did Burberry offer its clothing immediately after the September 2016 catwalk show, but also the accompanying make-up. And for users of WeChat there was an additional bonus, as the Bridle bag was available to purchase exclusively via the app. Burberry was not the only brand to premiere a see now, buy now platform at the spring/summer 2017 shows. Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Tom Ford also presented shoppable collections for the first time, with many retailers of these brands reporting instantaneous sales spikes. Business of Fashion reported that three items from the Burberry collection sold out within three days of the show. Rather than smaller items such as makeup or eyewear, retail analytics platform Edited confirmed that the Cavalry jacket – one of the

Above (from top): Burberry’s Bridle bag; Christopher Bailey, Burberry’s creative director

PHOTOS: (TOP, BOTH) COURTESY OF BURBERRY

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the Farley wool tailoring performed really well. The English rose print was a big hit, as was the utilitarian shirt in pretty pink.’ Though see now, buy now has not been adopted universally, the fact that British brands like Burberry and Topshop are leading the charge shows how in tune the London fashion scene is with the global purchaser. ‘Every brand is trying to discover what is best for them and their consumers,’ explains Markham. ‘We know that immediacy is hugely important, and we want to continue giving customers the chance to buy directly from the catwalk.’ With immediacy, however, comes a shift in the typical fashion calendar. As Markham

points out, ‘E-commerce has disrupted the traditional idea of designing for seasons; the fast-paced way of delivering fashion, the accessibility of international travel, and the advancement of social media have all contributed to the changing of the fashion cycle. So I think the move to create seasonally neutral collections and offer an instantly shoppable component to a show will become the norm for Topshop Unique.’ How the see now, buy now trend will develop, only time will tell. But British fashion favourites Burberry and Topshop embracing these changes helps the fashion industry as a whole become more dynamic. There’s never been a more exciting time to hone your style

Above (clockwise from top left): two looks from the Burberry February 2017 collection; Jacqui Markham, Topshop’s global design director

Time For Adventure 85

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PHOTO: XXXXXXX

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PHOTO: XXXXXXX

Bremont is one of the UKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most respected watchmakers. Founder Giles English tells Stephen Doig about the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s uniquely British take on timepieces

Above: Russian caption xxxxx qui officiducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi q

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he craft of watchmaking usually calls to mind the Jura valley in Switzerland, known as Watch Valley for its concentration of the Swiss watch industry; or perhaps Baselworld, the country’s annual watch fair, which showcases the finest new timepieces, many of which would not look out of place in a sci-fi film. The pretty market town of Henley-on-Thames in the UK borough of Oxfordshire is a less obvious hub of watchmaking prowess; but this is where the headquarters

of Bremont are located. This watchmaker is a bona fide British success story that sprang to life thanks to two brothers who love adventure and the pioneering spirit. ‘Setting up the business was very much about being able to follow a passion that we’ve had all our lives,’ says Giles English, who founded the company in 2002 with his brother Nick. The pair had inherited a keen love of aviation from their father Euan, but in 1995, while flying a vintage 1942 aircraft, the plane crashed and he was

killed. Nick, who was flying with his father, was seriously injured. From those dark days, the two brothers embraced a philosophy that life was very much for the living. As Nick recovered, they began a quest to honour their father’s legacy. As well as a love of aviation, Euan possessed an enthusiasm for mechanics which stretched, among other things, to watchmaking. It was to honour this that the brothers turned to a new venture: Bremont. Bremont is not only a rare case of British watchmaking success in a field where

Above (clockwise from top): America’s Cup Series 2015 in progress – the 35th America’s Cup Series takes place in summer 2017; Bremont America’s Cup Regatta collection; Nick and Giles English, the company’s founders

PHOTO: (TOP) © ACEA 2015/RICARDO PINTO

THE AMERICA’S CUP REGATTA WATCHES EMPLOY THE SAME HIGH-GRADE CARBON FIBRE USED TO BUILD THE ORACLE TEAM USA’S YACHTS

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Switzerland prevails as a front runner. Its watches have also become bywords for exceptional British craft. Bremont’s partners now include Jaguar and the America’s Cup; the brand is the official timing partner of the 35th America’s Cup, hosted by Bermuda in summer 2017. ‘We’re trying to grow a global brand, so it helps to be involved with global events like this,’ explains Giles English. ‘We’re a brand without history, really, so being the first British timing partner of the America’s Cup since 1851 means we’re really making our own history as we go along.’ That growth saw the 2012 launch of a flagship store on South Audley Street in Mayfair, a space reminiscent of a traditional gentlemen’s club, full of plump leather armchairs, bookshelves and aviation paraphernalia. Part of the brand’s appeal, acknowledges English, is that in a saturated market, Bremont watches stand out

for their relatively uncluttered designs. A very British sense of restraint runs like a current through Bremont collections, from the classicism of the handsome ALT1-C range to the elegance of the U-2. The sporting life – a constant draw for watchmakers, who long to imbue their timepieces with a story and sense of spirit – is referenced in the nautical Supermarine watch and the ALT1-Z Zulu range of pilot watches. The latter feature oversized numbers on the dial, all the better for reading at 30,000 feet, and plump, retro-esque onion crowns. ‘The good thing about working with my brother is that we agree on design,’ says English. ‘If you’ve got someone who you know likes the things you like, it means that you can design and develop things very quickly. There’s no design by committee or having to run things past people, we work very organically.’ At Baselworld 2016, the

brand unveiled the America’s Cup Regatta range of watches, which employ the same highgrade carbon fibre used to build the Oracle Team USA’s yachts. Never let it be said that a watch enthusiast cannot live the life more adventurous. Last year also saw the debut of the brand’s first range of watches for women. These are elegant, more feminine renderings of Bremont’s classic styles, but the brand’s adventurous DNA certainly does not take a back seat in this collection. The SOLO32 LC, for example, takes its name from Lettice Curtis, a pioneering 20th-century female pilot. It’s clear that Bremont is forging its own path in the world of haute horology. ‘If you’re buying Bremont, you’re not doing so because you want to be seen wearing a particular brand,’ says English. ‘You’re someone who loves engineering, likes being different, loves adventure and wants something unique.’

Above (from left): Bremont’s Mayfair flagship store; the brand’s SOLO-32 LC range for women

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TABLE TALK London’s best tasting menus offer all the originality and flair you would expect in a city known for fine food, says Madeleine Murray-Lyons

If you are seeking the ultimate fine dining experience, there can be no better way to explore a chef’s repertoire than by opting for the tasting menu over the traditional à la carte options. The tasting menu’s smaller plates allow the diner to immerse themselves in the restaurant’s particular style of cuisine, with two or three starters and main courses giving the opportunity to experience most things on the menu. Sommeliers are adept at pairing wines and other tipples with the dishes on offer and, if you are truly pushing the boat out, this option cannot be missed. Whether you are looking for grand French cuisine, experimental flavours, or simple British food made well, there is a restaurant with a tasting menu to suit. globalblue.com

AN G LO Contemporary British fare can be found at Anglo, a rising star on London’s dining scene. The restaurant’s tasting menu is affordable and delicious, offering seven courses plus ‘Intros’ (amuse bouche-style snacks) for £45, with a drinks pairing for an additional £30. Boasting seasonally changing dishes with mysterious names such as chocolate and beer or sea buckthorn and horseradish, Anglo captivates with its cooking and certainly impresses with its creativity. Understandably popular, the restaurant gets fully booked well in advance; be sure to plan ahead so as not to miss out. Anglo, 30 St Cross Street, London EC1N 8UH, +44 (0)20 7430 1503, anglorestaurant.com

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PERILLA

A relative newcomer to London’s culinary establishment, Perilla is already showing innovation with ingredients. This can be seen across the menu: in its seaweed bread brushed with roasted lamb fat; in the fried duck egg with chopped mussels and parsley; and especially in its custard-based dessert, which might be flavoured with grapefruit, plum or walnuts depending on the date of your visit. The restaurant is slightly off the beaten track but is close to the happening district of Dalston, and is rapidly becoming a favourite of hip young things in the area. With its understated decor and the affordability of its tasting menu (£38 for six courses), it’s not hard to see why. Perilla, 1-3 Green Lanes, London N16 9BS, +44 (0)20 7359 0779, perilladining.co.uk TH E CLOVE CLU B

Another east London eatery helping to put the district on the map, The Clove Club offers a stunning ten-course menu for £110. Situated in the grand surroundings of Shoreditch Town Hall, The Clove Club started as a supper club, with the owners setting up permanent residence in globalblue.com

2013. The retro-inspired interior with blue-tiled kitchen provides the perfect backdrop to the dishes devised by Scottish chef Isaac McHale, which might include hay-smoked mallard, fermented cabbage, beetroot and blackcurrant, or apple tarte tartin with sour cream.

Choose to accompany the tasting menu with the wine pairing, or the even more luxurious prestige pairing. The Clove Club, Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old Street, London EC1V 9LT, +44 (0)20 7729 6496, thecloveclub.com

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LY L E ’ S

A hip eatery on cool Shoreditch High Street, Lyle’s has commanded the attention of gourmets with its daily changing menu and interesting in-house events. The four-course tasting menu (£49, which can be supplemented with an additional cheese course) is offered in versions to suit meat-eaters and vegetarians alike, and might feature dishes such as pumpkin, whey and chestnut to start and apple, yeast and brioche for pudding. The wine list is top notch and the restaurant holds various events, including the monthly Guest Series, where Lyle’s invites new, daring names in the culinary world to take over its kitchen. Lyle’s, Tea Building, 56 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JJ, +44 (0)20 3011 5911, lyleslondon.com G A LV I N L A C H A P E L L E

NAM E O F PL ACE English

русский язык Russian

PHOTO: (TOP) PER-ANDERS JÖRGENSEN

中国的 Chinese Name Of Place, Address and Telephone website

Offering a stunning tasting menu in captivating surroundings, Galvin La Chapelle is an excellent choice for fine dining. The Grade II listed building provides the perfect backdrop to the exceptional cuisine, which has been awarded a Michelin star. The seven-course gourmand

menu (£75) features perfectly combined flavours in dishes such as lasagne of Dorset crab with beurre Nantais and pea shoots, or risotto of Burgundy black truffle, artichoke and cèpes. Pair each with the sommelier’s choice of wine to get the best from your meal. The third restaurant from

the Galvin brothers, Chris and Jeff, La Chapelle has won countless accolades and continues to wow diners with its impeccable food and service. Galvin La Chapelle, 35 Spital Square, London E1 6DY, +44 (0)20 7299 0400, galvinrestaurants.com

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GUIDE

PHOTO: SALLY ASHLEY-COUND

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to London with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the best Italian restaurants to an elegant footwear boutique. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.

Above: Tower Bridge, seen here opening to allow the passage of river traffic on the Thames, has been one of London’s best-known landmarks since the late 19th century

SHOP SU RVEY SHOP, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading travel and shopping guide, wants to learn more about you, our readers. SHOP, the definitive guide to global shopping, publishes over three million magazines covering over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia.

Our unique expertise allows us to offer extensive knowledge on key trends, products, brands and boutiques, as well as important information on how to save money by shopping tax free. In addition, SHOP provides restaurant and hotel reviews and interviews with elite fashion designers as well as maps of key shopping areas and information on partner retailer locations. With all this and more, SHOP is the essential international shopping companion.

We value your opinion and would love to hear more about your favourite shopping destinations, your travelling habits and how you plan your shopping trips. To tell us more about yourself, and have the chance to win an iPad Pro, visit globalblue.com/survey or scan the QR code. â&#x20AC;˘ Russian and Chinese versions available.

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SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOS: HAZE ALIEU; KIRSTY WELSH; SALLY ASHLEY-COUND

‘Explore the beauty of the city’s details, experience daily life like a Londoner, and expect a delightful surprise around every corner’ – Amberose He, Global Blue’s Chinese online editor

globalblue.com

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Follow our teamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s travels on Instagram @shopcontent. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

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The luxury fashion retailer that made its name in the Middle East has opened its first London store in the refined Chelsea neighbourhood. The two-storey boutique, which covers 12,000 square feet, offers an impeccably curated selection of items, from the finest evening attire and jewellery to the most cutting-edge accessories and ready-to-wear. There are also areas dedicated to books and gifts, as well as an in-house café, April’s. Look out for spring/summer collections from the best designer labels, including Elie Saab, Rochas and Missoni. Boutique 1, 127-128 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9AS, +44 (0)20 7118 0111, boutique1.com

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New Bond Street OX FO RD ST R

OP N SH NRA E CO H T ● OX FO R D ST RE A● EXT ET ●N ZAR ● E W IN L NA TM G E ● Z ARE IL D O F E L G IN SAK O N EG RME ONS S● ● E OHNST V IA O J L N ● AT E E P RO ST ●B OND D YER OF B OX ● V IN T C H E S R IN ● ● O T A V IC P P L E IN ● TENTERDEN STREET ●W TENTERDEN STREET IP LU P H IL L O R IB O ● T H IS P R E E M ASL ●B S● HAM B O N IA M S ● L E ER IL W AK IT RM IY RE M IG D L Y O W H● ROG SE D H IG T ● ●O IS LU S ● ● FRO E Y ● L H ANOV ER STREE T M O BR BROOK ST R EE T L& ● 77 DIAMONDS w ic k SEL ● Fe n RUS ANA RET B C B E A S &G IA’S LCE TO R O D IC V ● ● RCH NI DMA ● RMA IO A A H IN B L A N C POR T ANY N M E O M ● Y A ERR PI SS ● O ULB M BROO KS M E W S O BO NK ●M LY A HUG ZI GE HA E O LL A T ● T NE UV AS GNA IR R LO A RI O ZE S A AT A ●N G IL D ET HM A M ENE ● IN RO CH E RI ● P E ● ERM IL ● Z ● ● ● PA L MA DD OX ST. ALI CAN LY L ● THE BOX BOUTIQUE A ● GROSVEN OR STREET G ● B EMPE IT L IN I ● ●W B R E E L IA N ● H L N C IL R A O C O D U N H ’S ● N ●C HSO ET RCH MYT CH U RY RE ●S NA ST L L E IW C ● Z EG A Z T G ● AU X RA UI E LV OPE ●D ND OT FF ● IN E UBL C O ● DSQUARED2 S TA I ● GRO SV ENOR HILL N TA ●H O BEL F N SO NNE MP P.32 M IS ●A S● CHA H IL IP I ● ONG OO SJ P ●L Y CH LL Z IL L M PBE Y DI ● ● J IM CAM MLE FEN C IE BRO N ET U E E L R L& ● TR U L S A E N O D ● L R U S O B US P H E N ’S ) L R A ● DR OR ● P O L (C H IL RCH Y Y B U IU ● ERR TO R IU M URB IC ● M N ●B TO E N ’S M ● TLE MÈS GEN H E R O WA ● R IM A● TO N T IA N ● S OP V U IT L ET TO N LOR H A N E O U IS U STRE C R ●L B R● OR D D IO LIFF

EE T

TTE R LO C H AI L B U RY ●T

NEW

BON

D ST

REE

TO OL

DAVIE S ST R EET

NEW

BON

D ST

R EE

S AV

DAVIES STREET

IL E R

NEW

BON

Berkeley Square

E S● IL L IP A D IE N ● K PH ’S L AT E ●P RCH CH ERO O U N H C GO BOU IS O E GR ●D ON ● R D E N L O D OF L ●A ARD I● REY HOP GAR ASP ●C BUL GET ● IN IA P ● C PA LAN ET CUS LS ●B RPE U M A R TO N ● R EG EEF & A S B ● IN ● W CL FF Y N IE R ● A A R V SS ● HA GER L LO F N MOU R A F L A U R E B R U N E IN E L L I BAD ● P.28 ●G C H LF & NEL S WO ALP ● CU CHA E T ● DEN ●R M R U A NG C H A T IE R ● G TO IN CAR LES ● L R D BU B OO OTO ● O O ●● IM Y CH M IK R R IS ● O J IM MU B O U T IN ● M M ID N L OB E C K H A D AV IS T IA C H R IC T O R IA V

D ST

Featured In This Issue

ER S

Place Of Interest

REE

D OV

Department Store

64 | G U I D E

Conduit Street & Old Bond Street

CASADEI

● C H ’S KES ● HUR H AW ●C RKS ES & CL A G IE V N OW IS O MA LA ● ILE R OUR S AV ●F R G IE T ● D2 MA G O A IV E R ARE S A SQU OL EY ● ● D -3 A D ID IYA K E ALD G E E N IN D IA O Z WO AT E N ● Y SEY M ET SW T ● i ’s TRE B S n ● EAS ANY ● IS TO N ecco C T H E CO M P c h L IN G BUR t S N OLD S ke OTO ● I● & SO ELL A M J O H N● TO N AM U C IN S NOR O JI Y ● LO C B IE VAT YO H NEL ● VA R ROM BRU ●C UE M C MN N E N A L IQ T ESO P.34 V IV IE A N ● ●L R EE M RSH K ST L HE OOD RNO ● CO R N IE 5 ST W A D ETE H● WE ● D E P P E I P.3 T W O O TOS T ● S S C K IN K L E Y G IU Z A N O T WE MA NNE ● HOC ER ● N IV IE I I O ELL T IT ●V &P LD ● IL L IP RLU ●K O F E BY NA ●B CK G RHI ● R IG E A B IA BLA FA ROB ●F S E L IC O L E ET ARD N TRE ●W

M A DD OX

ST R EE T D IE

PET

● YS HEB ● SOT RDS ● A N DW E R E E O S S IA O ● IN TAT SCH MO

B OLO ●P

OLD

FF CLI

ORD

S IT

STR

EET

BON

ER M

ANG ER W A N D EET LEX TR ● A ARLE S

ALB

DE GAR TO N M O L IN G R R AG A BUR FE

Much-loved Italian footwear brand Casadei has recently opened a flagship store in London’s upmarket Mayfair district. Designed by Cesare Casadei in partnership with architect Marco Costanzi, the store’s concept echoes the interiors of the Milan and Rome Casadei boutiques, with selected shoe styles standing proudly on marble platforms in fresh shades of peach. Sleek mirrored surfaces add dynamism to the space, echoing the directional footwear on offer. In the store’s second velvet-clad room you’ll find the most exclusive collections. Perch upon one of the velvet day beds in the main space as you try on the latest styles from the spring/summer 2017 collection. Casadei, 48 Albemarle Street, London W1S 4DH, +44 (0)20 7495 2514, casadei.com

● RE CO ● Y& AT O A LV FA N H A N E LR ● ●S C CLE PH OSE N NY ● J O ● M DK IL A A H AT ● C X MAR ● er A PER ● v M o M D eet ● A C A JA N O ● D A r R St r ke t A R T U O L E X ● ● PT T E G A A C Ma A RA K R IS I ● BO ENET TRE ARI D OUL ●V NM I ● MO ● L EC G I AE L L AT IR AV R E N T IT H ERN AU L SM G C E C A T L PA U BU ●J A Burlington S A IN ● M E G N I Arcade EET ●O STR CCI ● IA RD GU RON DA M F FO ● A E T H S ● AKS VA C N T IN ANA ● D PERL A S TA ABB QUEEN U● LA &G C CO N V ER T ● ● LCE D ER M O O D T IN ● ● XAN R A LEN ALE R IN ● VA A R T IE ● ● A M DI O C O D ’S E T R L RY AL ●T BB E R IN WE L J E WT R E ● IN & R O YA E A IA N ● Y R H APP E T ND ● THE ADEM SS ●M A O X H AC A L E WA N G B O G I● ADE CAS T IF

OLD

R EE

TRE

D ST

ER S

BON

D OV

PIC ARL ING TO N STR

I L LY

The Wolseley

SELECTED STORES IN BURLINGTON ARCADE: T TREE YN S Manolo Blahnik JER M Bell & Ross Frédéric Malle Paul Smith

Le Caprice

CAD

Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

Restaurant

S H O P | 65

TOP 3… ITALIAN RESTAURANTS

Regent Street

● NIKETOWN

H&M ●

● TOPSHOP/TOPMAN

OXFORD CIRCUS

OX FO RD ST

BENETTON ● FRENCH CONNECTION ● KAREN MILLEN ● TED BAKER ● APPLE ● LACOSTE ●

● TEZENIS

MOLTON BROWN ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● MICHAEL KORS ●

● & OTHER STORIES ● ACCESSORIZE

● ARMANI EXCHANGE ● ALL SAINTS ● H&M ● COACH P.32 M A SC U TU STUART ● AQ U ● WEITZMAN C EE T EP U B LI R GH STR A U N A O ● BAN LBOR

G R E AT

● DESIGUAL ● GAP

ERT

'S P

L AC

● KURT GEIGER

NAB

Y ST

● HAMLEYS

● JUICY COUTURE

REE

GANT ●

● JAEGER

REET

CHURCH’S ● THE PEN SHOP ●

CAR

NT ST

Department Store

MAR Liberty

● COS

R EG E

FURLA ● HOBBS ● BARKER ● TUMI ● CAMPER ● KIPLING ● CLARKS ●

● HUGO BOSS ● ESPRIT ● LEVI’S ● REISS

Theo Randall This award-winning restaurant draws on the eponymous chef’s enthusiasm for Italian cuisine. Opt for the five-course tasting menu or order à la carte. Highlights include cappelletti di vitello – handmade pasta stuffed with slow-cooked veal and pancetta with porcini mushrooms – and piccione al forno – Anjou pigeon on pagnotta bruschetta with Italian peas and pancetta. Theo Randall at the InterContinental celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2016. Theo Randall at the InterContinental, 1 Hamilton Place, London W1J 7QY, +44 (0)20 7318 8747, theorandall.com London Underground Station

RE ET

● OMEGA

LONGCHAMP ●

● HOUSE OF HANOVER

Avista Executive chef Arturo Granato entrances with stunning dishes at this Mayfair eatery. Combining skills he gained from acclaimed and Michelinstarred eateries in Italy, Granato has created a seven-course tasting menu that distils the flavours of regional cuisine, evoking the Amalfi coast and Venice. The tasting menu is a delight from start to finish, with our highlights including hand-picked Cornish crab with heritage tomato, watermelon and gazpacho, and trio of lamb with quinoa, yoghurt and green tomato chutney. Avista, 39 Grosvenor Square, London W1K 2HP, +44 (0)20 7596 3399, avistarestaurant.com

GR EAT C ASTLE STREET

LEVI’S ●

REGENT STREE T

L’Anima Chic, contemporary L’Anima, which offers a southern Italian menu, is a place to see and be seen. The food, like the décor, is polished and cleverly crafted, with captivating dishes such as raw tuna with avocado, mango and Mottra Sterlet caviar, and beetroot tortelli with smoked burrata, ricotta and aged balsamic vinegar. Ask the sommelier to recommend perfectly paired wines to accompany your dishes for the ultimate in Italian indulgence. L’Anima, 1 Snowden Street, London EC2A 2DQ, +44 (0)20 7422 7000, lanima.co.uk

Featured In This Issue

Cinnamon Soho

66 | G U I D E

Regent Street, Piccadilly & Jermyn Street ● HUGO BOSS

● WOLFORD ● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● GUESS ● ANTHROPOLOGIE ● MASSIMO DUTTI

R EG E

LE R OW

. K ST

ILE R OW

ZARA HOME ●

TRE

S AV

RUSSELL & ● BROMLEY

● LANVIN MEN

TRE

HN S

● MAPPIN & WEBB

GODIVA ●

ES S

E R JO

● TOMMY HILFIGER

● TM LEWIN

PENHALIGON’S ●

JAC+ JACK ●

● FOLLI FOLLIE ● THE BODY SHOP

TOYWATCH ● ● CHESTER BARRIE

● ZARA ● MANGO

BURBERRY ●

R ST

DINOSAUR DESIGN ●

D YAR HAM

FRESCOBOL CARIOCA ● BRUMMELS OF LONDON ● ONCE ● MILANO EYEWEAR ● CONCIERGE

VIGO STR EE T

● AUSTIN REED ● WOLFORD ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT GL AS ● MOSS BROS SH OU ● UNIQLO SE LONDON TEXTILE CO ● ST RE ● COACH ET ● STEFANEL HOLLISTER ● ● NESPRESSO ● LOTUS HUNTER ● ● WOLFORD R

SELECTED STORES IN PRINCESS ARCADE: The Left Shoe Company

ORLEBAR BROWN ●

REISS ●

SUPERDRY ●

Maso n

rcade

C Z EC

P IC C A

T STREET

C MAR AMPO Z IO ● E XC OF L ELLENC OND O N ●E H AW CU ES & T H E S R T IS ● T IN G ●

B CH ARB INA OU SH R ● PA OP R ● PIQ IS MI K U WH ADR I ● O● IT T AR D●

YA L

um &

ess A

Fo r t n

P r in c

PICCADILLY CIRCUS Piccadilly Circus ● LILLYWHITES

EY ● OSPR ER ● VEN GROS

ED DU

YN S

TR EE

R R EG

L●

I●

LO W E

N H IL

BOGG

JER M

ENT S

St James’s Square

CH A R

S T JA

TR EE

KE S

DU UTUM UA S C ● AQ IN K S UFFL IR E C N NGM ● LO A R D G R EE BON D ST W F OLD ● ED O YLOR EY K & ● TA D IT C H ET ● H IL g li n o ’sU RY S T R E .37 B Qua R P ASSE LL & NES RNBU ● T U C K E T T & JO O ● CR HAMP C ’S ● DU IC K E R L IS IL ● TR MA W ● E M ID O F F R EE T V ’S S T ● DA MES

R EE T

UGG ● AUSTRALIA

D IL LY

H AN

ALFR

OD ● GWO & L IN ● NEW OOK U R B R JO H N FAV O EY ● ● SMEDL S ● CASE ON W ILT R E ● MO SL A D TO N ● ES JM W C O ’S ● F R A N TA ● T BERE

YN ST

DENMAN STREET

’S DON WLEY ● RO E T TS LON M ● EM S NE ● JO L NSPE ’S ● SU U RCH USE ● CH O GLE H NEY ● ● EA CHE A ● L E W IN R T IN A ● TM LA MA NES ● R STO WAT E KS ● DA T IS ● W H IT CURT S TYR ES & ARLE H AW ● CH R EE T RK ST O F YO DUK E DSON & HU Y E L R V IE ROM ● HA L&B SSEL ON ● RU LON D F LD O DRO IN K S ● LLA H IT F IE L W ● S TO N & JO N E P.68 ● PA X ON TT & M A IS U L IN E LES OCKE O S CHAR ● CR ● AS E● E R IC K D W IL L ● RO FREY O R IS ● FL BB H N LO ● JO T Y● CKE T & KE ● ET ● HA IT C H STR E S H IL D V IL LE K B AT E ● SON S AC K ● P IN ER & ER FOST IS BARK E ● T R ● WS AK & CU H WES D SPE N D IS ● HA C AV E VERE S ’S JA M E ● DE T ST

EGEN

● MR HARE

JER M

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

● TIMBERLAND

SWAROVSKI ●

ER J

LOW

R EE T

● BROOKS BROTHERS

OXFORDS ●

40 SAVILE ROW ●

BEA

Blow Ltd.

LOW

L’OCCITANE ●

NT ST

CRABTREE & EVELYN ●

WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND ●

P.71

Cinnamon Soho Jinjuu

● REISS

S AV I

RICHARD P.37 JAMES ●

● OUR LEGACY

● LEVI’S

ACE

● JOSEPH

DENM AN PL

HACKETT ● J CREW ●

LE S II

STR E

● JAMES LOCK & CO ● BERRY BROS & RUDD

K IN G

ST R E

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

Blow Dry Bar

Restaurant

Featured In This Issue

Department Store

S H O P | 67

Brompton Road

RO X

N RO AD

●

KENSINGTON ROA D

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

BU RB ER

Bulgari Hotel

AD RO

ST RE ET

●

ST RE ET

BA SIL

●

L TA

●

O PH

●

RA IC

●

ER LL PE & Y N GB O RI RS ● DE N SA RT ’ S PE CH UT RU UR ● CH P OR A S H ● GA ND LAS ● PA N G O ● S U KO E S S N R PI SP S IS RE

HA N

SELECTED STORES IN HARRODS: Atelier Des Ors Creed Hill & Friends Hublot Lladro Vertu

RO AD

C R ESCENT

●

NC T EE

S LE AR CH

●

LT O

●

O I M O AN IU M IN AR LL S O PE NE RI

●

R BE AL & M A EU RI S O MU

●

Y E RR SP BE & UL KS M AR M ●

●

S ROAD

HAN

S IL

●

A ● ANY

PON ● SKANDIUM

Place Of Interest

● JOSEPH

London Underground Station

Hotel

H IN D M

A RCH

ET T ST R E

N RO AD

O OG

O PAV IL LI

TE TA

CA E AC PL AL EV H C

REET

PY ● RA S HE TE AT I A M C O SO AR AS

ELIER ST

ACE

RO CO

TI NA

RE ET

MONTP

N S ST EL IE R P

L OT P CEL

R PL

ST ER LI M ON TP

●

● KA T RE E ● LU RE L ST HAE ● LK I JO N M RAP IL E ● C BE LE ● G A CO N N E N TT ● AC N T ● BA CES ● PO SLE SO ● BA RS R RIZ E ● W RK CH ● T O AT C E R E D ES T ● H M H IG ● MA E K MY ES N O K ● S O H F ● T UT S O IL S ● D ED CH IMO PLE FIG WI I ● RU ESE BA INS DU S ER TZE Z A SS L KE KY T T RL AN I R A EL P R L .3 D & 0 ● BR FE OM AT KNIGHTSBRIDGE HE LE Y RS P.3 3 Ha & P r r .88 o

LAN

WAL K

T R E VO

P EL IE R

●

TR EV OR

TREVOR PL

MONT

HARVEY NICHOLS ●

K EN SI NG TO

68 | G U I D E

MAISON ASSOULINE No living room is complete without a stack of coffee table books, and Maison Assouline stocks a selection of the best. The impressive concept store, located in a Grade II listed building that dates back to 1922, also stocks unique furniture and an array of items that would make great gifts, from decorative plates to leather book bags. Select your favourite tomes from the titles on photography, fashion and design and then pause at Swans Bar. This quiet space serves excellent coffee and a range of light bites throughout the day. Maison Assouline, 196A Piccadilly, London W1J 9DY, +44 (0)20 3327 9370, assouline.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 66

Sloane Street North

Sloane Street South CADO GAN GATE

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

CADOGAN PLACE

Harvey Nichols

● PINK ELL IS STREET

● GARRARD

DOLCE & GABBANA ● JITROIS ● CESARE PACIOTTI ● OMEGA ●

ANNE FONTAINE ●

● MONCLER ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ● ESCADA ● MISSONI ● LOUIS VUITTON

● DOLCE & GABBANA

● EMILIO PUCCI ● CHANEL ● DRJIE ● LA PERLA ● COUTTS & CO BANK

CADOGA N PLACE

● MAJE

KIN

G’ S

● BIONDA CASTANA

● PICKETT ● N PEAL ● CASSANDRA GOAD

Colbe rt

Sloane Square ROYAL COURT THEATRE

SLOANE SQUARE S LOA N E G A R D E N S

● SAINT LAURENT

SLOA NE TERRACE

LOW ER SLOANE STREET

● VALENTINO

● JO MALONE

● HUGO BOSS

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ●

● BULGARI

PETER JONES ●

● DODO ● BOGGI ● HOSS INTROPIA

LORO PIANA ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ●

● HERMÈS

● KABIRI BIMBA Y ● LOLA VIVIENNE ● WESTWOOD

WILBR AHA M P L .

● CHLOÉ

SY MONS STR EE T

● TM LEWIN ● RIGBY & PELLER ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● WOLFORD ● ELLIOT RHODES ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● BCBGMAXAZRIA ● CATH KIDSTON ● ERIC BOMBARD ● WHISTLES ● COS

PRADA ●

GIORGIO ARMANI ●

TOD’S ●

● FENDI

AMOUAGE ●

BOTTEGA VENETA ●

● VERSACE

L O W N D E S S T.

SLOANE STREET

JIMMY CHOO ●

● MIU MIU

PAULE KA BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ANYA HINDMARCH BROWNS

LINKS OF LONDON ●

A● HK ● US RS NO TE S ● A N T ROT P L E Y ● O E KO M L I ● TH E BRO L& EL

● ROGER VIVIER

GUCCI ●

MICHAEL KORS ● DIOR ●

Lowndes Square

k an

● BERLUTI ● GINA

MARNI ●

HACKETT ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● FRANK SMYTHSON ● CARTIER ● TIFFANY & CO ●

HARRIET ST.

JOSEPH ● ROBERTO CAVALLI ●

REDVALENTINO ● DELPOZO ●

● ERMANNO SCERVINO

● TOM FORD

KIK

BONPOINT ●

BOUTIQUE 1 ●

● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Duc

HOGAN ● GRAFF ●

P.62

● ALBERTA FERRETTI

SLOANE STREET

DOLCE & GABBANA ● BOODLES ●

● SERGIO ROSSI

● ● ● ●

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Place Of Interest

Blow Dry Bar

London Underground Station

Restaurant

Featured In This Issue

PHOTO: ANDY BARNHAM

C A D O G A N G A R DEN

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

S H O P | 69

Redchurch Street C A LV ● START

ERT A VENU

C A LV

ERT A V EN U

SH LABOUR & WAIT ●

URCH

STRE

EEN

ST R EE

R OA

ROW

EE T

Boxpark

AL GR

R EE T

CLU B

STR EE

STR

BETHN

STRE

TR EE

CATCH & RELEASE ●

EBOR

S H O R E D I TC H H I GH

THOR & WHISTLE ● W HI T BY

HOL ST

R EDCH

THE GALLERY ●

Owl & the Pussycat

F IE L D

RE S

W NOBLE LEATHERWARE ●

HOSTEM ●

STR EE T

SHOREDITCH HOUSE

TC L A

B RO

EET

Albion

Boundary

SUNSPEL ● AIMÉ ● APC ●

MAISON TROIS GARCONS ●

STR EE T

STR E

LIG ON IER STR

IGH

C LU

HH CARHARTT ●

MON

I TC

B O U N DA RY

S WA N

OR R EDCHU RCH

OLD NIC

● URBAN INTERIOR

S C L AT E

R STREE T

AVIARY Summer calls for a cocktail on a roof terrace, and recently opened rooftop bar and restaurant Aviary offers stunning views over the City of London. Its vast terrace is peppered with sofas and chairs, and an eye-catching marble bar lends added sophistication. Select a cocktail from the extensive menu, perhaps a Sour Cherry Bomb with Kamm & Sons aromatic British spirit, vodka, rhubarb bitters and cherries, or a Jennings Caribbean Steam Boat, made from rum, honey, lime and pineapple, and take in your surroundings. Feeling peckish? The restaurant offers a delicious selection of dishes which make the most of British produce.

Shopping Centre/Mall

Bar

Aviary, Montcalm Royal London House Hotel, 22-25 Finsbury Square, London EC2A 1DX, +44 (0)20 3873 4060, aviarylondon.com

70 | G U I D E

Ledbury Road E&O

VINE CO L

TER

R AC

E ART ESI AN ROA D ● PENELOPE CHILVERS

ILLE

● MELISSA ODABASH

R OA

WEST

● WOLF & BADGER EMMA HOPE ● ● ROBIN MARTIN ANTIQUES MARIE-CHANTAL CHILDREN ● ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● ORLEBAR BROWN IRIS ● ● REISS JOSEPH ● MELT ● ● BODAS ASHLEY STORES ● ASSYA LONDON ● ● DAVID CLULOW JEEVES ●

NE GR

RY RO

N UR

BOUR

OV E

LEDBU

Beach Blanket Babylon

OA D

● JW BEETON

ANYA HINDMARCH ● MR HARE ●

T ES

HAM R

Ottolenghi

● I LOVE GORGEOUS

DA L E

● ECONE

RY R O

COV

LO N S

ROA D

● MATCHES

N EE D

LEDBU

TWENTY8TWELVE ● MATCHES ● DIANE VON FURSTENBERG ● THE VILLAGE BICYCLE ● CARAMEL ● EWS EM LYON CHOY LONDON ● V IL L CO L PETIT BATEAU ●

FARA BABY ● FARA KIDS ●

● PETIT AIME

VIL

IG HR OA D

12 HOURS IN LONDON 9am Jason Atherton’s Berners Tavern restaurant offers a stunning breakfast selection until 10.30am. Whether you prefer to energise with a coconut water, mango and lime smoothie or with a double espresso, or to start the day with hazelnut waffles with berries and cream or with courgette, aubergine and ricotta on toast, there is an option to suit.

Global Blue Retailer

12pm New Bond Street offers the crème de la crème of luxury brands. Jewellers Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston compete for your attention, as do watchmakers Piaget, Montblanc and Breitling. Select suiting from Canali, shoes from Bally and a summer dress from Dolce & Gabbana. Victorinox can offer a new case to transport your purchases.

Non-Global Blue Retailer

3pm The recently expanded Tate Modern gallery offers an insight into the genius of a host of contemporary artists. Wander through the collections and marvel at the vastness of the Turbine Hall. Stop for a coffee, or something more substantial, at one of the varied food and drink venues. Don’t miss the viewing level, which offers breathtaking views of the London skyline.

Restaurant

7pm Continue the high-rise theme into the evening at Sky Garden. The Fenchurch restaurant perched on the rooftop of this 155-metre-high building offers a selection of delectable dishes, from the rabbit bolognaise starter to the Cornish halibut main course, alongside excellent cocktails – the Mediterranean Spice is a must-try.

S H O P | 71

40 SAVILE ROW If you make one purchase during your trip to London, choose a hand-tailored suit. The tailors at 40 Savile Row are experts in creating the perfect fit for both men and women in a range of superb fabrics. As well as offering impeccably crafted suits, this family-run business is known for its bespoke tailored shirts – and stocks a small selection of ready-to-wear items for clients paying only a flying visit. Visit the inviting boutique to get measured up and be sure to peruse the selection of cufflinks and tiepins to give your look that final touch of polish. 40 Savile Row, 40 Savile Row, London W1S 3QG, +44 (0)20 7287 6740, 40savilerow.co.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 66

Westbourne Grove & Denbigh Road The Ledbury VINE CO L

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72 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP WESTFIELD LONDON

WESTFIELD STRATFORD

With two floors and hundreds of stores, Westfield London is the perfect place to spend a day. Head to The Village where you’ll find the crème de la crème of international luxury brands, from Burberry and Prada to Omega and Gucci. Westfield London, Ariel Way, London W12 7SL, +44 (0)20 3371 2300, uk.westfield.com

Located next to the Olympic Park, Westfield Stratford City is home to an array of leading brands and shops. Look out for British department store John Lewis, Apple and a host of watch brands, from Breitling to Swatch. Westfield Stratford City, Montfichet Road, Olympic Park, London E20 1EJ, +44 (0)20 8221 7300, uk.westfield.com OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-9pm Saturday: 9am-9pm Sunday: 12pm-6pm

OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-10pm Sunday: 12pm-6pm

Westﬁeld Stratford City STRATFORD INTERNATIONAL STRATFORD STATION

KINGS CROSS ST.PANCRAS STATION PADDINGTON STATION

Westﬁeld London

EUSTON

CHARING CROSS STATION LIVERPOOL STREET STATION

SHEPHERD’S BUSH STATION

WATERLOO STATION

HOW TO GET THERE To Westfield London By London Underground There are four Underground stations within walking distance of Westfield London: Shepherd’s Bush and White City on the Central line and Wood Lane and Shepherd’s Bush Market on the Hammersmith & City and Circle lines. By taxi A taxi from central London takes 10 minutes.

Outlet Village

London Underground Station

To Westfield Stratford City By London Underground The Central and Jubilee lines run a regular service from central London to Stratford station. By train Trains run from Kings Cross-St Pancras and Liverpool Street to Stratford International station. By taxi A taxi from central London takes 25 minutes.

Train Station

S H O P | 73

WESTFIELD LONDON SERVICES

tax refunds • On-site parking • Valet shopping • Hands-free • Same-day hotel delivery

WESTFIELD STRATFORD CITY SERVICES

PHOTOS: G-FONNE PHOTOGRAPHY

Currency exchange • Personal • Hands-freeshopping shopping • Same-day hotel delivery •

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74 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP BICESTER VILLAGE Find your fabulous at Bicester Village, with more than 130 boutiques including Temperley London, The White Company, Marni and dunhill, savings of up to 60% and instant tax refunds.

Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6WD, +44 (0)1869 366266, bicestervillage.com

BICESTER NORTH BICESTER VILLAGE STATION Bicester Village

A41

M40

A41

M1 M40

M25 M40

LONDON

By car Bicester Village is just 60 minutes from London by car. Exit the M40 motorway at Junction 9 and follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester. From Bicester the route is clearly signposted. Look for Bicester Village Outlet Centre. Parking is always free.

Train Station

Outlet Village

By Shopping Express® The Shopping Express® coach service runs direct from central London to Bicester Village. Choose from two routes that operate daily* return services, collecting from selected London hotels. Adult return £28/child return £20 (ages 5-12). *excludes 25 December

By train Travel from London Marylebone direct to Bicester Village Station in as little as 46 minutes, with two services an hour. Travel from Birmingham Moor Street or Birmingham Snow Hill to Bicester North, where a shuttle bus will take you to the Village.

HOW TO GET THERE

S H O P | 75

MY PERFECT DAY SHOP’S COMMERCIAL EDITOR RUAIRIDH PRITCHARD DESCRIBES HOW HE WOULD SPEND A PERFECT DAY AT BICESTER VILLAGE

DON’T MISS… SHOPPING DAY EXPERIENCE This exclusive package includes: Shopping Express® return tickets from central London An additional 10% saving on the outlet price in boutiques Hands-free Shopping – you do the shopping, we do the carrying Lunch or dinner A £50 Bicester Village Gift Card to spend in your favourite boutiques Treat yourself to the perfect day out for £99 per adult. To book, please visit BicesterVillage.com/shoppingpackage.

• • • • •

SERVICES

12pm Start your day at Marni, a favourite of fashion devotees for its experimentation in texture, colour blocking and asymmetry. 1pm L’Atelier showcases the finest luxury jewellery, watches and diamonds. Discover its selection of high-end brands. 2pm Recharge with the amazing flavours of the Far East at itsu, with 64 delicious, freshly prepared dishes to choose from. 3pm American brand Coach is synonymous with the ease of New York style.

Those little extra touches that help make your visit special: stay connected with free Wi-Fi; shop effortlessly with the Hands-free Shopping and Luggage Drop services; arrive in style with Valet Parking or the Shopping Express®; and earn rewards while you shop with your chosen frequent flyer programme. You can even claim your tax refund in the Village rather than at the airport and purchase more than 40 currencies. To book, please visit BicesterVillage.com/shoppingpackage.

4pm For timeless menswear, leather goods, writing instruments, timepieces and accessories, visit dunhill, a definitive name in men’s luxury goods.

FABULOUS FOOD

5pm farmshop restaurant & cafe, created by Soho House & Co exclusively for Bicester Village, serves local British and seasonal food.

Bicester Village has a selection of delectable restaurants and cafés that will tempt your taste buds. Whether you’re looking for a speciality coffee, a gourmet breakfast or a three-course dinner, we’ve got just the place for you.

globalblue.com

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

Refund Office Details London Heathrow Terminal 1 London Heathrow Terminal 2 London Heathrow Terminal 3 London Heathrow Terminal 4 London Heathrow Terminal 5

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

2. Claim

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

London Gatwick North Terminal London Gatwick South Terminal International Currency Exchange, 339 Oxford Street, London W1C 2JB International Currency Exchange, Westfield London, Ariel Way, London W12 7GF No 1 Currency, City of London Information Centre, St Paul’s Churchyard, London EC4M 8BX Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL Topshop, 536-540 Oxford Street, London W1C 1LS Spend a minimum of £30 and save up to 14% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash. Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 79 84

TRANSLATIONS 美文翻译 38: Britain’s Got Talent

发的牛仔布给人们带来了震撼的印象，她也因此被聘为这种牛仔面料的专家顾问。在当下掀起波澜的不只是女装设计师们。2014年毕

群英荟萃

业于中央圣马丁斯学院（Central St Martins）的Grace

放眼伦敦时尚界，新秀设计师正继往开来。Harriet

评的男装。她将文化、性格和集体记忆编织成具有深度

Quick带您遍访名家

和情感的服饰，这一技能得到了公认，她因此荣获 2016

Wales Bonner便设计出了以做旧剪裁为特色、大受好

年LVMH年轻时装设计师奖（the LVMH Prize for “新兴人才”和“先锋派”一度意味着设计潮流前卫的服

Young Fashion Designers）。Wales Bonner的设计最

装，但却不够耐穿，最新一代的伦敦设计师则有所不同，

令人兴奋的地方，在于她对时尚中传统性别观点的颠覆。

他们大胆突破界限，同时将顾客需求和商业考量牢记心

她设计的系列也许名义上是男装，但女士却同样为之倾

中。从 Molly Goddard的薄纱连衣裙到 Roberta Einer

慕。这些作品已经被 Matches等著名零售商买下，作为其

的街头服饰，不同的美学被大胆融合在一起，汇流成一股

2017春夏季女性系列的一部分。

崭新的潮流，令人耳目一新。

Molly Goddard设计的服饰以非凡的方式勇敢立足于多佛街市场（Dover Street Market）。她那“反合身”的薄纱礼服微妙而多彩，搭配牛仔裤时也能像穿在吊带裙上一样美丽。凭借极其女性化、几乎带些少女风的裙装，Goddard在时尚界获得了属于自己的一席之地。她在伦敦时装周布置了一场假面舞会般的走秀，所有的模特在闭幕时翩翩起舞。时尚行业呈现一派团结友爱、朝气蓬勃的景象。Goddard通过设计轻松快意地表达其女权主张。出生于爱沙尼亚的Roberta Einer也在作品中表达了相似情感，她在 Balmain巴黎工作室学习过装饰工艺。您不妨想象刺绣的廓形飞行员皮夹克上布满贴花图案，或者缀有串珠口袋的修身短裙。 “每件衣服都要花许多时间，因为我想创造一点特别的东西。”Einer表示。她的作品在纽约萨克斯第五大道（Saks Fifth Avenue）等著名百货店有售。 “时尚关

伦敦素来以培养本土人才而闻名。非营利平台

Fashion East便由企业家 Lulu Kennedy创立于 2000年，是伦敦最重要的年轻设计师赞助机构之一， Jonathan Saunders、Simone Rocha和 Roksanda Ilincic都曾从中受益。最近的校友包括以手绘皮革而闻名的Mimi Wade，专门定做绸缎晚礼服的Caitlin Price，以及将亚洲美学与休闲冷酷融入男装、尤受女性喜爱的Craig Green。这三位设计师的作品在塞尔福里奇百货公司（Selfridges）全新的Designer Studio 有售，与更加成熟但同样极具试验性的Marques Almeida、Christopher Kane等品牌一同售卖。在 David Chipperfield新设计的塞尔福里奇配件厅中，可以找到一系列由造型师兼时尚顾问Charlotte Stockdale 与Katie Lyall共同开发的Chaos牌手机和旅行配件。在这里还能找到鹿皮制成的iPhone手机壳、配有硕大铭牌和钥匙扣的行李箱和手袋。当主流趋势转向为个性和差异性展示时，伦敦的设

乎勇敢，我想传达一种自信。”她解释说。本季，设计师

计新秀们已然作好准备，不负众望。进入这些设计师的世

根据当代插画师 Yoko Honda和 Jiro Bevis的图作，重

界，如同步入一个奇思妙想新天地。您可能不会喜欢上所

新构思 20世纪80年代的池畔海报艺术，别出心裁地运

有的设计，但无论如何，您绝不会遇见平庸。

用在其标志性的装饰之中。高质量面料上印有植物和热带鸟类图案，与钢笔笔墨人物肖像重叠，栩栩如生，向迈阿密这座冲浪城市致敬。 “我当时正在欣赏 70年代的

44: Style On Demand 当红热款

迈阿密艺术图景，那会儿的波普艺术方兴未艾， ” Einer 继续说道。为了寻找灵感，他走遍了这座城市的美术馆

在“即秀即买”的潮流之中，时装大秀刚刚结束，买主

和植物园。

便能即刻拥有某些顶级英国品牌的系列产品。Sally

Einer是施华洛世奇集体创作项目（Swarovski Collective）的一员，该项目致力于为时尚界的青

McIlhone带您一探究竟

年才俊提供资助和支持。项目另两位成员是年轻的

在这个现金泛滥而时间匮乏的社会中，当下的消费者都希

伦敦设计师 Faustine Steinmetz和 Grace Wales

望享受将核心单品送达眼前的便利。对于最懂时尚的奢

Bonner。Steinmetz擅长手工制作牛仔布，喜欢将寻常

贵客户，最前沿国际大牌的最新设计便是他们的衣橱必备

普通之物改进为非凡杰作。 “牛仔布是我尝试的第一种面

品。无需在换季时去店内寻找，最后一位模特走下秀场之

料。”这位巴黎出生的伦敦设计师说。她最近推出了一条

时您便能下单购买。何苦要等待几个月才能购买心仪的服

再生牛仔裤，以6万颗晶莹的施华洛世奇水晶点缀，被用

装呢？多亏这种“即秀即买”的潮流，时尚粉丝再也不需

作她在伦敦时装周上静态展示的一部分。Steinmetz研

要苦苦等待了。

globalblue.com

说起在商业模式中融入时尚趋势与新兴技术，博柏

“即秀即买”的趋势将如何发展，只有时间能揭晓答

利（Burberry）总是走在最前列，本季也不例外。早在

案。但英国时尚宠儿博柏利和 Topshop热情拥抱这些变

2016年2月，该品牌便宣布，把每年四次的秀场减至每年

化，有助于让整个时尚业变得更为活跃。若想提升自己的

两次，而且男装与女装产品在秀场上联合展示，整个系

造型，再没有比现在更加令人激动的时机了。

列都能在 2月和9月大秀之后立即从门店与线上购买，直邮全球100多个国家。该品牌还将旗下三条副线——即

48: Time For Adventure

从前的Prorsum、London和 Brit——统一合并为一个

冒险时刻

Burberry品牌。 “我们目前所作出的改变，能让我们将秀场上的观看经历与亲身体验单品的时刻更紧密地联系起来。”博柏利

Bremont是英国最负盛名的腕表制造商之一。品牌创始人 Giles English向Stephen Doig讲述该公司时计产品中独

首席执行官兼创意总监Christopher Bailey解释道。 “我

一无二的英伦风

们的时装秀已经在逐步弥合这种差距。从直播到秀场直购到社交媒体现场活动，我们在持续发展的创意过程中迈出

提及制表工艺，人们常想起集瑞士腕表业之大成的“钟

了最新的一步。”

表之谷”——瑞士朱拉谷，抑或瑞士的年度钟表展会巴

2017春夏季大秀之后即刻发售的品牌不仅有博柏利，T台妆容所用的配套美妆产品亦然。若您想要从头到

塞尔世界（Baselworld）——最上乘的新款时计流光溢

脚穿戴一身博柏利，如今可以在创纪录的最短时间内实现

Henley- on-Thames的漂亮市镇，它虽然名不见经传，却坐落着Bremont公司的总部。这家制表商的历史是一段真正的英式成功故事，由热爱冒险、锐意进取的English两

心愿。微信用户更有额外礼赠，新款马勒包仅支持APP内部购买。

2017春夏秀场上，博柏利也不是唯一一个推出“即秀即买”平台的品牌。 Ralph Lauren、Tommy Hilfiger

彩，在科幻电影中也不会过时。英国的牛津郡有一个名叫

兄弟创立。 “创立这所公司很大程度上是为了追寻我们一辈子

和 Tom Ford也首次推出了可购买的系列秀品，众多零售

的热情， ”Giles English表示。2002年，他与兄弟Nick

商的销售业绩瞬间井喷。根据时装商业评论（Business

一起创立了该公司。兄弟俩对航空的热爱继承自父亲

of Fashion）的报道，时装秀三天之后，博柏利的三款单品便告售罄。零售分析平台Edited证实，骑士夹克是博柏

机身亡，与父亲同行的Nick也身受重伤。在那些黑暗的日

利最特别和昂贵的单品之一，而不是小的配饰，如化妆品

子里，兄弟二人学会了一种安生乐命的哲学。随着Nick恢

或眼镜。

复健康，他们俩开始致力于将父亲的精神发扬光大。除了

Topshop Unique是另一个尝试“即秀即买”的英国品牌。在伦敦老斯皮塔尔菲尔德市场（Old Spitalfields Market）办完伦敦时装周大秀之后，它便在网站和全球指定门店推出了精选的2017春夏系列。契合时装秀主题，

热爱航空，Euan 还对机械有激情，这些兴趣都被延伸到了

该品牌还为消费者提供了在其临时“集市摊位”秒杀抢购

不仅在全球制表业中罕见，其制作的腕表也成为了英国

的机会。 “顾客反响特别热烈。全球门店以及官网都取得了不

Euan，Euan在1995年驾驶一架老式1942飞机时不幸坠

制表之中。正是为了纪念这一点，兄弟俩开启了一项新的事业：创建 Bremont公司。在制表行业，瑞士可谓一马当先。Bremont的成功杰出工艺的代名词。 Bremont 现今的合作伙伴包括捷豹（ Jaguar）和美洲杯（the America’s Cup）。2017年

俗的销量——我们的顾客先下手为强。”Topshop全球设

夏，在百慕大举办的第35届美洲杯赛上，该品牌作为官方

计总监Jacqui Markham表示。这一趋势还使品牌得以更

合作伙伴，为赛事提供时计产品。 “我们正在努力发展一

清楚地观测到哪些秀品最令人一见钟情。 “一切带斑马印花

个全球性的品牌，因此参与这样的全球性活动对我们的品

的产品都被抢购，Farley羊毛剪裁也极为热门。英伦玫瑰

牌很有帮助。”Giles解释道。 “我们是一个缺乏历史的品

印花大受追捧，实用而美丽的粉色衬衫也很畅销。”

牌，所以非常荣幸能成为美国杯的合作伙伴。美国杯起始

虽然“即秀即买”的趋势还未被广泛采用，但博柏

于1851年，这意味着我们一路走来创造自己的历史。”伴随

利、Topshop等英国品牌已经捷足先登，伦敦时尚图景与

着这种成长，Bremont于2012年在伦敦梅费尔区的南奥

全球买家心心相印。 “每个品牌都在努力发掘最适合自身

德利街（South Audley Street）开张首个旗舰店。店中摆

及其消费者的东西。”Markham解释道。 “大家都知道即

满了皮革扶手椅、书架和飞机配件装饰，令人联想起传统的

时性非常重要，我们想继续给消费者秀场直购的机会。”

绅士俱乐部。

但与即时性相伴而来的，是典型时尚日程的转变。正如

Markham指出的， “电子商务已经摧毁了传统的季节设计

Giles认为，Bremont之所以充满魅力，从某种意义上说，其更加整洁利落的设计让品牌在饱和的腕表市场中

理念。快节奏的时尚传播、国际旅行的普及、社交媒体的

脱颖而出。从 ALT1- C系列潇洒的古典主义到 U-2系列的

进步都在促使时尚周期发生变化。所以我认为，创造季节

高端优雅，一种极为英式的从容贯穿于每一个Bremont系

感模糊的系列产品，为时装秀加入即时可购元素，将成为

列之中。制表商通常渴望向时计中注入故事与灵魂，而体

Topshop Unique的常态。”

育生活便具一种永恒的吸引力。Supermarine航海腕表和

globalblue.com

ALT1-Z Zulu系列飞行员腕表便是范例。后者表盘上的放大数字，在30, 000英尺的水下亦可轻松读览。侧面的洋葱形表冠则显丰满和复古。 “与我的弟弟一起工作的好处便是，我们有着类似的设计观念。”English表示： “如果你认识的人对你心仪的东西也有着同样的好感，这意味着

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 38: Britain’s Got Talent Британия ищет таланты

你可以很快地设计并开发。我们不通过委员会来做设计，也不需要层层把关，而是以一种非常精简的方式开展工作。” 在 2016年巴塞尔钟表展上，该品牌推出了美洲杯赛事腕表系列。产品采用的高级碳纤维原材料，与美国甲骨文队（Oracle Team USA）游艇所采用的材料一模一样。千万莫断言腕表爱好者不能拥有更加冒险的生活。该品牌去年首次推出了第一款女士腕表系列，该系列呈现典雅风格，但依稀可辨Bremont品牌的冒险DNA。例如，Solo-32 LC腕表便得名于Lettice Curtis——一位参加过第二次世界大战的女飞行员。显然，Bremont 正在高级钟表世界中开辟自己的道路。 “购买Bremont的人，并不是为了让人看到自己穿戴了某个品牌， ”Giles解释说， “Bremont的顾客喜欢精致的手工艺、喜欢与众不同、喜欢冒险，想要拥有独一无二的东西。”

76: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税当您在全球顶级购物区中的30多万家商店消费时，环球蓝联购物退税服务（Global Blue Tax Free Shopping）为您节省购物开销。每年大约有两千六百多万名旅客享用环球蓝联（Global Blue）的购物退税服务，何不加入他们的行列？您只需在购物时留意环球蓝联（Global Blue）的蓝星标志，或直接问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）退税服务，然后遵循以下简单的退税流程即可：

1. 购物消费

Хариетт Куик рассказывает о молодых и успешных дизайнерах Лондона, за которыми стоит следить в ближайшее время

无论您在哪里购物，请向商家索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并保存票据。

2. 申领退税在您返程离境前，请前往海关柜台，出示退税表格和相关票据，获取海关印章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点领取退税款。

PHOTO: WALES BONNER

联系方式：

taxfree@ globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费£ 30即可申请退税，能够节省高达购买商品价 14%的税。请注意：您收到的退税款是增值税减去环球蓝联的手续费。如果您选择现金退税，部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退税手续费。

Когда-то сочетание «молодого дарования» и «авангарда» порождало интересные, но не пригодные к использованию вещи. Теперь же новое поколение лондонских дизайнеров уверенно помещает в центр своего внимания потребности покупателей и продажи. Разнообразие подходов и взглядов, представленных на подиумах, поразительно: от тщательно проработанных тюлевых платьев Molly Goddard до высокого уличного стиля с обильной отделкой Roberta Einer. У этих марок непохожие представления о стиле, но их роднит ощущение бесстрашия, которое поднимает новую модную волну.

Созданные ими вещи не только успешно раздвигают границы принятого, но и разработаны с мыслями о реальных покупателях. Молли Годдард, коллекции которой продаются в Dover Street Market, берет на себя смелость оставаться ни на кого не похожей. Ее «антиоблегающие» тюлевые платья нежных оттенков одинаково хорошо смотрятся с джинсами и поверх комбинации. И эти женственные, почти девичьи платья сделали дизайнеру имя. Презентацию на Лондонской Неделе моды она инсценировала как рейв-вечеринку, в финале которой многочисленные модели танцевали на подиуме. Когда яркие идеи соединяются и взаимодействуют, мода расцветает пышным цветом. Женственность Годдард замешана на дерзости и беззаботности. Модели Роберты Эйнер, лондонского дизайнера эстонского происхождения, пронизывает схожая атмосфера радости. Ее ключ – искусство декорирования, которое она постигала во время работы на Balmain в Париже. Представьте себе кожаную куртку-бомбер большого размера с мозаичной аппликацией на тему граффити и вышивкой или длинную узкую юбку с карманами из бисера. «Я провожу многие часы в работе над каждой вещью, но я хочу создавать нечто особенное. Мода – это проявление бесстрашия, и я хочу передать это ощущение в одежде», – говорит Эйнер, и ее коллекции берут в свой ассортимент престижные ритейлеры, в том числе Saks Fifth Avenue в Нью-Йорке. В этом сезоне, на волне увлечения графикой современных иллюстраторов Йоко Хонда и Джиро Бевис, дизайнер остроумно переносит в декор одежды арт-постеры для бассейнов 1980-х. На качественные ткани нанесены растения и тропические птицы, и среди них прорисованы фигуры в духе Майами, города серфинга. «Я специально изучала творческую жизнь Майами 1970-х, когда волна поп-арта там была на пике», – в поисках вдохновения Эйнер путешествовала по арт-галереям и ботаническим садам Майами. Роберта Эйнер – участница программы Swarovski Collective, которая поддерживает молодые таланты в сфере моды. В этом же проекте участвуют дизайнеры Фаустин Штайнметц и Грейс Уэльс Боннер. Фаустин Штайнметц, родом из Парижа, работает с globalblue.com

денимом: особую радость она находит в том, чтобы своими руками превращать нечто привычное и общеизвестное в экстраординарное. «Деним был первой тканью, с которой я понастоящему экспериментировала», – в частности, недавно она поместила на пару джинсов 60000 небесно-голубых кристаллов Swarovski и представила их в виде ожившей картины на Лондонской Неделе моды. Исследование и развитие возможностей денима настолько впечатлило профессионалов моды, что к Штайнметц теперь обращаются как к экспертуконсультанту по этой ткани. Шумиху в моде создают и молодые дизайнеры мужской одежды. Грейс Уэльс Боннер окончила колледж Central St Martins в 2014 году и разрабатывает мужскую одежду с мягким и свободным кроем. Она вплетает различные культуры, персонажей и коллективную память в свои модели, чтобы передать глубину и эмоции. Ее талант был признан профессиональным сообществом: на конкурсе Young Fashion Designers в 2016 она получила премию LVMH Prize. Самое удивительное в работах Уэльс Боннер – это выход за границы традиционных представлений о гендерных различиях. Ее коллекции, конечно, номинально мужские, но и женщины интересуются ими не меньше. А престижный ритейлер Matches приобрел коллекцию весна-лето 2017 для женского отдела. Лондон вкладывается в развитие собственных талантов. Некоммерческая платформа Fashion East, основанная предпринимателем Лулу Кеннеди в 2000 году, – это один из самых значительных проектов по поддержке начинающих дизайнеров. Джонатан Сондерс, Симон Роша и Роксанда Илинчич в прошлом участвовали в этой программе. В числе недавних выпускников – Мими Уэйд с ее расписанной вручную кожгалантереей, Кейтлин Прайс, которая специализируется на шелковой и сатиновой клубной одежде, и Крейг Грин, сочетающий азиатскую эстетику с повседневным стилем в мужской одежде (за что ее особенно любят женщины). Все три дизайнера представлены в новом отделе Designer Studio универмага Selfridges: они соседствуют с состоявшимися, но склонными к экспериментам брендами, например, Marques Almeida и Christopher Kane. В новом отделе

Accessories Hall, оформленном Дэвидом Чипперфилдом, представлена линия аксессуаров для телефонов и путешествий Chaos, которую создали стилисты и консультанты Шарлотта Стокдейл и Кати Лайалл. Их чехлы для iPhone выполнены из оленьей кожи, а большие бирки с инициалами и кольца для ключей заметны на багаже или сумке, так что лондонский характер в дизайне не ограничивает себя в размерах. Мода совершает поворот от макро-трендов к нишевым и индивидуальным проектам, и новое поколение лондонских дизайнеров оказалось способно удовлетворить эту потребность. Стоит погрузиться в их творческие миры, как перед вами во всей красе предстанут их микровселенные идей и мнений. Некоторые покорят вас, другие, возможно, нет. Но вы никогда не встретите там посредственность. 44: Style On Demand Стиль по требованию Салли МакИлхоун рассказывает о концепции «увидел-купил», которая открывает покупателям доступ к новым коллекциям британских брендов сразу после показов на Неделе моды Мы живем в обществе, где много денег, но мало времени. Поэтому современные покупатели требуют, чтобы необходимые вещи оперативно доставлялись прямо к ним. Понятие «необходимых вещей» для тех, кто следит за модой, включает новые коллекции актуальных брендов со всего мира. Но речь идет не о том, чтобы разыскивать их в магазинах в первые дни нового сезона, а о возможности купить вещи из новой коллекции, как только последняя модель сошла с подиума. Зачем ждать несколько месяцев? Новый тренд получил название «see now, buy now» («увидел-купил»), и благодаря ему терпение больше не входит в список добродетелей модных знатоков. В области освоения технологий и деловых трендов Burberry всегда был в лидерах. В феврале 2016 года компания пообещала сократить количество показов с четырех до двух – в феврале и сентябре. Было решено представить мужскую и женскую коллекции вместе, а также позволить купить любую вещь сразу после презентации. Продажа открывалась и в фирменных магазинах,

и онлайн, а доставка осуществлялась более чем в 100 стран. Компания также упростила структуру коллекций: три линии – Prorsum, London и Brit – объединились в один общий лейбл Burberry, предназначенный поклонникам этого стиля по всему миру. «Эти перемены позволят нам построить более тесную связь между впечатлениями от показа и моментом, когда можно увидеть вещи в реальной жизни, – объясняет Кристофер Бейли, исполнительный директор и креативный директор Burberry. – Мы хотим заполнить этот пробел и преображаем наши презентации. Живые трансляции, заказ одежды прямо с подиума и кампании в социальных сетях – все это большие шаги в творческом процессе, который мы продолжим развивать и в будущем». Сразу после показа весна-лето 2017 Burberry предложил не только одежду, но и косметику, которая дополняла подиумные образы. Таким образом, все, кто предпочитают Burberry с головы до пят, смогли получить полюбившиеся вещи в рекордные сроки. А пользователи WeChat получили дополнительный бонус: сумка Bridle была доступна для заказа только через это приложение. Burberry был не единственным брендом, который обратился к формату «увидел-купил», представляя коллекцию весна-лето 2017. Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger и Tom Ford также впервые открыли продажи сразу после шоу, и многие ритейлеры отметили мгновенные взлеты продаж. Business of Fashion сообщил, что три предмета из коллекции Burberry были полностью распроданы в течение первых трех дней. И речь не о аксессуарах типа косметики или очков: по данным аналитика ритейла Edited, в числе бестселлеров оказалась куртка Cavalry, а это одна из самых необычных и дорогих вещей коллекции. Topshop Unique также включился в эксперимент и сразу после показа на Лондонской неделе моды предложил улучшенную версию коллекции весна-лето 2017 на сайте и в избранных магазинах. Для шоу компания выбрала пространство Старого рынка в районе Спиталфилдс (Old Spitalfields Market), и в духе этого места предложила зрителям купить новые модели в стилизованной «рыночной лавке» поп-ап. «Отклик был фантастический. Мы сделали отличные продажи по всему миру

как в магазинах, так и на Topshop.com. Наши покупатели – несомненно, ранние последователи, которым интересно быть в числе первых», – рассказывает о результатах Джеки Маркхэм, директор по дизайну Topshop. Благодаря этому тренду компании также могут уточнить, какие вещи наиболее привлекательны для публики: «Всё с принтом зебры раскупили очень быстро, и костюмы из шерсти Farley показали себя очень хорошо. Большим хитом стал принт с английской розой и практичная рубашка красивого розового оттенка». В мире отношение к схеме «увидел-купил» неоднозначное. Однако тот факт, что уважаемые британские бренды Burberry и Topshop взяли ее на вооружение, наглядно демонстрирует, насколько гармоничны отношения лондонской моды с клиентами по всему миру. «Каждый бренд старается выявить, что будет лучше для него и его покупателей, – комментирует Маркхэм. – Мы знаем, насколько важна непосредственность и открытость, и мы хотим и дальше давать покупателям возможность приобретать вещи прямо с подиума». Вместе с такой открытостью приходят и перемены в ежегодном модном цикле. Маркхэм объясняет это так: «Электронная торговля разрушила традиционное понимание сезонности в моде. Быстрый способ доставки новых коллекций, доступность путешествий по миру и общение в социальных сетях – все это влияет на формирование модного календаря. Я думаю, движение в сторону сезонно нейтральных коллекций и доступности покупок после шоу станет нормой в Topshop Unique». Время покажет, как будет развиваться тренд «увидел-купил». Но британские модные фавориты Burberry и Topshop, подхватившие эту новацию, помогают модной индустрии в целом стать более динамичной и подвижной. И едва ли возможен столь же удачный момент, чтобы вплотную заняться своим стилем. 48: Time For Adventure Время приключений Часовая марка Bremont – одна из самых уважаемых в Великобритании. Ее основатель Джиллз Инглиш рассказывает Стивен Дойгу о том, как британская культура повлияла на дизайн часов бренда globalblue.com

Когда речь заходит о часовом искусстве, на ум сразу приходит долина Жу в Швейцарии, также известная под названием «Долина Часов», благодаря расположенным здесь часовым мануфактурам. Для кого-то швейцарские часы будут непременно ассоциироваться с ежегодной выставкой, где выставляются лучшие изобретения часовых мастеров – Baselworld. При виде некоторых из представляемых здесь моделей можно ненароком подумать, что они созданы для съемок научно-фантастического фильма. Симпатичный городок Хенли-он-Темс в английском графстве Оксфордшир, возможно, ни у кого не вызовет ассоциаций с часовым мастерством, однако именно здесь расположена штаб-квартира компании Bremont. Этот легендарный производитель – настоящий пример британской истории успеха, возникшей благодаря двум братьям, которых объединяла любовь к приключениям и открытию нового. «Открытие дела означало для нас в первую очередь возможность следовать увлечению всей нашей жизни», – говорит Джиллз Инглиш, основавший компанию в 2002 году со своим братом Ником. Любовь к авиации передалась братьям по наследству от их отца Юена; в 1995 году винтажный самолет, которым управлял отец, разбился. Юен погиб, а Ник выжил, но получил серьезные травмы. С тех пор братья решили, что жизнь слишком дорога, чтобы ей рисковать. После выздоровления Ника они начали искать способ вновь заняться увлечениями своего отца. Кроме авиации Юен увлекался механизмами, в том числе и часовыми. Это натолкнуло Ника и Джиллз на мысль о создании нового предприятия, которое получило имя Bremont. Bremont – это не только редкий случай британского успеха в сфере часового искусства, бесспорным лидером которой является Швейцария. Часы бренда стали олицетворением исключительного британского мастерства. В число партнеров Bremont сейчас входит Jaguar и America’s Cup; бренд является официальным часовым партнером 35-й регаты Кубок «Америки», которая пройдет на Бермудах летом 2017

года. «Мы стремимся завоевать всемирное признание, поэтому участие в таких международных мероприятиях для нас очень важно, – поясняет Джиллз Инглиш. – Наш бренд не может похвастаться большой историей, но тот факт, что мы стали первым с 1851 года британским часовым партнером Кубка «Америки», говорит о том, что наша история рождается на глазах». По мере роста популярности, бренд открывал новые бутики. В 2012 году на South Audley Street в лондонском районе Мэйфейр был открыт первый флагманский магазин, больше напоминающий традиционный джентльменский клуб, обставленный кожаными креслами, книжными полками и авиационной атрибутикой. По мнению Инглиша, среди представленных на рынке наручных часов марка Bremont выгодно отличается лаконичностью дизайна. Британская сдержанность характеризует большинство коллекций Bremont: от классической серии ALT1-C до элегантной U-2. Спортивный стиль – излюбленная тема для всех производителей часов, стремящихся к тому, чтобы у изделий была своя история и характер. Марка Bremont не стала исключением, выпустив часы для яхтинга Supermarine и серию пилотных часов ALT1-Z Zulu. Последняя модель имеет циферблат с крупными цифрами, которые легко разглядеть на высоте 10 км, и заводную головку в ретро стиле. «Преимуществом работы с моим братом является то, что у нас совпадают мнения относительно дизайна, – говорит Инглиш. – Если есть кто-то, кто любит то же, что и ты – это значит, что процесс дизайна и разработки будет идти намного быстрее. У нас нет комитета по дизайну, и не нужно ни перед кем отчитываться, поэтому работа идет очень естественно». На выставке Baselworld 2016 бренд представил новую серию наручных часов America’s Cup Regatta, при создании которой был использован углерод, из которого сделаны яхты Oracle Team USA. Жизнь ценителей хороших часов едва ли назовешь скучной. В прошлом году дебютировала коллекция часов для женщин. Классический стиль Bremont обрел элегантные, женственные формы, все же

философия бренда не отошла на второй план. Модель Solo-32 LC, например, получила свое название в честь легендарной женщины-пилота 20 века – Леттис Кертис. Очевидно, что Bremont прокладывает свой собственный путь в мире часового искусства. «Если вы приобретаете часы Bremont, значит вы делаете это не ради того, чтобы покрасоваться брендом, – говорит Инглиш. – Это значит, что вам нравится точная техника, вы любите приключения и хотите владеть чем-то понастоящему уникальным». 76: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум £30 и сэкономьте до 14% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

‫‪84‬‬

‫‪ Audley‬في ‪ Mayfair‬سنة ‪ُ 2012‬مش ّكالً مساحة تعيد إلى‬ ‫الخاصة التقليديّة‪ ،‬مفروشة بالكنبات ال‪£‬لديّة‬ ‫الذاكرة ُص َور النوادي ّ‬ ‫الفاخرة والمكتبات ولوازم الطيران‪.‬‬ ‫ويشير ‪ English‬إلى أنّه في سوقٍ مشبع‪ ،‬يكمن تألّق‬ ‫ساعات ‪ Bremont‬بتميّزها عن غيرها لتصاميمها غير المتكلّفة‬ ‫حس التحفّظ البريطاني بوضوح في م‪£‬موعات‬ ‫نسبيّاً‪ .‬يبرز ّ‬ ‫‪ ،Bremont‬من كالسيكيّة تشكيلة ‪ ALT1-C‬الرائعة إلى أناقة‬ ‫‪ .U-2‬ت‪£‬در اإلشارة إلى سعي صانعي الساعات إلى رب ِِط ابتكاراتهم‬ ‫بقص ٍة وروحيّ ٍة معيّنة وإلى اهتمامهم بالم‪£‬ال الرياضي‪ ،‬وهذا هو‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الحال في ساعة ‪ Submarine‬البحريّة وتشكيلة ‪ALT1-Z‬‬ ‫الخاصة بالطيّارين‪ .‬تتميّز هذه األخيرة بمينا ذي أرقام‬ ‫‪ّ Zulu‬‬ ‫ضخمة إلتاحة القراءة على ارتفاع ‪ 30‬ألف قدم وبتي‪£‬ان كبيرة‬ ‫عريقة الطراز‪ .‬يقول ‪ English‬في هذا الصدد‪" :‬ال‪£‬يّد في عملي‬ ‫مع أخي أنّنا نتّفق على التصميم‪ .‬عندما تعمل مع شخص تعرف‬ ‫تحب‪ ،‬يُمكنك أن تُع ّد التصاميم وتُنفّذها بسرعة‬ ‫يحب ما ّ‬ ‫مسبقاً أنّه ّ‬ ‫فائقة‪ .‬لذا ليس لدينا ل‪£‬نة تصميم أو هيئة مراجعة‪ ،‬بل نعمل‬ ‫بعفويّة مطلقة‪".‬‬ ‫أطلقت العالمة في معرض ‪ Baselworld 2016‬م‪£‬موعة‬ ‫ساعات ‪ America’s Cup Regatta‬التي تستخدم نفس‬ ‫ألياف الكربون العالية ال‪£‬ودة المستخدمة لبناء يخوت الفريق‬ ‫محب‬ ‫األميركي ‪ .Oracle Team USA‬ويُخطئ ّ‬ ‫كل من يظ ّن أ ّن ّ‬ ‫حس المغامرة في حياته‪ .‬فقد‬ ‫الساعات ال يعرف التحلّي بمزيد من ّ‬ ‫أطلقت العالمة السنة الماضية أ ّول م‪£‬موعة ساعات نسائيّة؛ وهي‬ ‫نماذج أنيقة وأكثر أنثويّة لتصاميم ‪ Bremont‬الكالسيكيّة‪ ،‬مع‬ ‫الخاصة بالعالمة إليها‪ .‬في حين تأخذ ساعة‬ ‫إضفاء روح ال ُمغامرة ّ‬ ‫‪ ،Solo-32 LC‬على سبيل المثال‪،‬إسمها من ‪Lettice Curtis‬‬ ‫وهي قائدة طائرة رائدة من القرن العشرين‪.‬‬ ‫الخاص في عالم‬ ‫من الواضح أ ّن ‪ّ Bremont‬‬ ‫تشق طريقها ّ‬ ‫الساعات الفاخرة‪ .‬يقول ‪ English‬في هذا الصدد‪" :‬عندما تشتري‬ ‫‪ ،Bremont‬ال تفعل ذلك لتتباهى بارتداء عالمة ت‪£‬اريّة مع ّينة‪،‬‬ ‫ويحب االختالف ويعشق المغامرة‬ ‫يحب الهندسة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بل ألنّك شخص ّ‬ ‫ويريد شيئاً فريدا ً من نوعه‪".‬‬

‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 76‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العالم‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضريبة‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العالم‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضريبة‬ ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الضريبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر المال لدى تس ّوقك في أكثر‬ ‫من ‪ 300,000‬متجر في أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العالم‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ال تنض ّم إلى الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫دفع الضريبة من خالل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫عليك إال أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫أينما تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول على طلب استرداد الضريبة‬ ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫باإليصاالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫في طريق العودة إلى وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجمارك عند نقطة‬ ‫المغادرة لتتم المصادقة على إيصاالتك قبل قبض االسترداد من‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫أحد مكاتب االسترداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لالت ّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪111 111 232 +421‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدنى قدره ‪ £30‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14%‬من ثمن‬

‫مشترياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ االسترداد النهائي الذي ستحصل عليه‬ ‫م‪£‬موع الضريبة على القيمة المضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬في‬ ‫بعض المطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي على كل طلب استرداد‬ ‫ضريبة في حال رغبت بالحصول على استرداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪85‬‬

‫كمستحضرات الت‪£‬ميل أو النظّارات لم تكن من بين القطع األكثر‬ ‫مبيعاً لدى ‪ ،Burberry‬بل سترة ‪ Cavalry‬وهي من أكثر القطع‬ ‫تميّزا ً وغال ًء في الم‪£‬موعة‪.‬‬ ‫من العالمات البريطانيّة األخرى التي تختبر أسلوب البيع‬ ‫منصة العرض‪ Topshop Unique ،‬التي عرضت‬ ‫المباشر من ّ‬ ‫تصاميم رائعة من م‪£‬موعة ربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ 2017‬على موقعها‬ ‫اإللكتروني وفي بعض المتاجر المختارة حول العالم‪ ،‬مباشر ًة‬ ‫بعد عرض أزيائها في أسبوع لندن للموضة في سوق ‪Old‬‬ ‫‪ .Spitafields Market‬ومن وحي المكان‪ ،‬منحت العالمة‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫"أكشاك" موقّتة‪ .‬تقول‬ ‫المتس ّوقين فرصة شراء المالبس من على‬ ‫‪ ،Jacqui Markham‬مديرة تصميم ‪" :Topshop‬كانت‬ ‫االست‪£‬ابة رائعة‪ ،‬حق’قنا مبيعات ممتازة حول العالم‪ ،‬في المتاجر‬ ‫وعبر موقع ‪Topshop.com‬؛ يبدو أ ّن زبائننا يتأقلمون بسرعة"‪.‬‬ ‫أي قطع تلفت األنظار‬ ‫كما تسمح هذه الظاهرة للعالمات بمراقبة ّ‬ ‫كل ما يتمتّع بنقش‬ ‫المنصات‪" .‬نفد بلمح البصر ّ‬ ‫فور عرضها على ّ‬ ‫الحمار الوحشي والقت البدالت من صوف ‪ Farley‬رواجاً كبيرا ً‪.‬‬ ‫كما حقّق نقش الزهرة اإلنكليزيّة ن‪£‬احاً باهرا ً وكذلك القميص‬ ‫العملي باللّون الزهري ال‪£‬ميل‪ ".‬رغم أ ّن ظاهرة الشراء المباشر‬ ‫منصة العرض لم تُعتمد عالميّاً بعد‪ ،‬تُظهر ريادة بعض‬ ‫من ّ‬ ‫العالمات البريطانيّة على غرار ‪ Burberry‬و‪ Topshop‬في‬ ‫هذا الم‪£‬ال مدى فَهم قطاع األزياء في لندن لمتطلّبات الزبون‬ ‫كل عالمة أن‬ ‫حول العالم‪ .‬تشرح ‪ Markham‬قائلة‪" :‬تحاول ّ‬ ‫تعرف ما هو األفضل بالنسبة لها ولمستهلكيها‪ .‬ندرك تماماً أهميّة‬ ‫"الفوريّة" وننوي االستمرار بمنح الزبون فرصة الشراء المباشر‬ ‫منصة العرض‪ ".‬إال أ ّن الفوريّة تستدعي تغييرا ً في رزنامة‬ ‫من ّ‬ ‫األزياء النموذجيّة‪ .‬على ح ّد قول ‪" :Markham‬زعزعت الت‪£‬ارة‬ ‫لكل موسم؛ فنتي‪£‬ة توفير‬ ‫اإللكترونيّة ال ُعرف التقليدي بالتصميم ّ‬ ‫األزياء بوتيرة سريعة وسهولة السفر حول العالم وتط ّور وسائل‬ ‫التواصل االجتماعي‪ ،‬تغيّرت دورة األزياء‪ .‬لذا أعتقد أ ّن ‪Topshop‬‬ ‫‪ Unique‬ستلتزم أسلوب ابتكار م‪£‬موعات غير مرتبطة بموسم‬ ‫معيّن وتقديم عروض يمكن الشراء منها مباشرةً‪".‬‬ ‫سيشهد الزمن وحده على نم ّو ظاهرة الشراء المباشر من‬ ‫منصات العرض‪ .‬لكن ال ّ‬ ‫أحب عالمتين على قلوب‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫شك أ ّن اعتماد ّ‬ ‫البريطانيّين‪ Burberry ،‬و‪ ،Topshop‬هذه التغييرات سيساهم‬ ‫ككل إلى ٍ‬ ‫بيئة أكثر ديناميكيّة‪ .‬لذا اآلن هو‬ ‫في تحويل م‪£‬ال األزياء ّ‬ ‫الوقت المثالي لتصقل أسلوبك‪.‬‬ ‫‪Time For Adventure :48‬‬

‫حان وقت المغامرة‬

‫المختصة بصناعة الساعات‬ ‫‪ Bremont‬هي إحدى أبرز العالمات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫مؤسسها ‪ Giles English‬يُطلع ‪Stephen Doig‬‬ ‫في بريطانيا‪ّ .‬‬ ‫على أسلوب الشركة البريطاني بحت في عالم الساعات‬

‫عندما نفكّر بصناعة الساعات‪ ،‬يطرأ على بالنا عاد ًة وادي ‪Jura‬‬ ‫في سويسرا المعروف بوادي الساعات لتَ َركُّز قطاع صناعة الساعات‬ ‫السويسريّة فيه؛ أو ربّما المعرض السنوي للساعات ‪Baselworld‬‬ ‫الذي يعرض أفخر الساعات الجديدة الشبيهة بتلك في أفالم الخيال‬ ‫العلمي‪ .‬أ ّما مدينة األسواق الجميلة ‪ Henley-on-Thames‬في‬ ‫أقل شهر ًة لصناعة الساعات‪،‬‬ ‫منطقة ‪ ،Oxfordshire‬فهي مكان ّ‬

‫لكن هنا يقع المركز الرئيسي لشركة ‪ .Bremont‬والواقع أ ّن صانع‬ ‫حق‪ ،‬أبصر النور بفضل‬ ‫الساعات هذا هو قصة نجاح بريطانيّة عن ّ‬ ‫أخوين يحبّان المغامرة وروح الريادة‪.‬‬ ‫يقول ‪ Giles English‬الذي أٍّ ّسس الشركة سنة ‪2002‬‬ ‫"أسسنا الشركة لمتابعة ٍ‬ ‫شغف الزمنا طوال‬ ‫مع أخيه ‪ّ :Nick‬‬ ‫حياتنا‪ .‬ورث األخوان حبّاً ج ّماً للطيران عن أبيهما ‪ ،Euan‬لك ّنه‬ ‫لقي حتفه سنة ‪ 1995‬في حادث تحطّم طائرة قديمة من طراز‬ ‫َ‬ ‫‪ 1942‬كان يقودها‪ .‬كان ‪ Nick‬مع والده في تلك الطائرة وكانت‬ ‫إصابته بليغة‪ .‬نتيجة تلك األيّام السوداء‪ ،‬اعتمد األخوان فلسفة‬ ‫بكل لحظات الحياة‪ .‬وبعد تعافي ‪ ،Nick‬بدآ التفكير‬ ‫االستمتاع ّ‬ ‫حب ‪Euan‬‬ ‫بطريقة للمحافظة على إرث والدهما‪ .‬باإلضافة إلى ّ‬ ‫للطيران‪ ،‬اهت ّم باألعمال الميكانيكيّة التي شملت أمورا ً عدّة ومن‬ ‫بينها صناعة الساعات‪ .‬وإكراماً لذلك‪ ،‬شرع األخوان بمغامرة جديدة‬ ‫وهي ‪.Bremont‬‬ ‫قصة نجاح بريطانيّة فريدة من‬ ‫ليست ‪ Bremont‬مج ّرد ّ‬ ‫نوعها في مجال صناعة الساعات الذي يلمع فيه إسم سويسرا‪ ،‬بل‬ ‫باتت ساعاتها أيضاً رمزا ً للمهارة البريطانيّة االستثنائيّة‪ .‬من شركاء‬ ‫‪ Bremont‬اليوم ‪ Jaguar‬و‪America’s Cup‬؛ وتشكّل‬ ‫العالمة شريك التوقيت الرسمي للدورة الـ ‪ 35‬لكأس ‪America’s‬‬ ‫‪ ،Cup‬التي ستقام في ‪ Bermuda‬في صيف ‪ .2017‬يشرح‬ ‫‪ Giles English‬قائالً‪" :‬نحاول بناء عالمة عالميّة لنتمكّن من‬ ‫المشاركة في مناسبات عالميّة كهذه‪ .‬الحقيقة أنّنا عالمة ال تاريخ‬ ‫لها‪ ،‬لذا يمكن القول إنّنا نصنع تاريخنا بأيدينا ب ُحكم أنّنا أ ّول شريك‬ ‫توقيت بريطاني لكأس ‪ America’s Cup‬منذ سنة ‪".1851‬‬ ‫بفضل هذا النم ّو‪ ،‬فتح المتجر الرئيسي أبوابه في شارع ‪South‬‬

‫‪86‬‬

‫كل من ‪Jonathan‬‬ ‫في المدينة‪ .،‬من المستفيدين السابقين ّ‬ ‫‪ Saunders‬و‪ Simone Rocha‬و‪.Roksanda Ilincic‬‬ ‫ومن آخر الخريجين ‪ Mimi Wade‬الشهيرة بجلودها المرسومة‬ ‫المتخصصة بمالبس النوادي الليليّة‬ ‫يدويّا ً و‪Caitlin Price‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫من الساتان الحريري ال ُمتقن و‪ Craig Green‬الذي يدمج‬ ‫في مالبسه الرجاليّة التي تجذب النساء األسلوب اآلسيوي بذلك‬ ‫العفوي العملي‪ .‬تُباع تصاميم هؤالء المص ّممين الثالث في متاجر‬ ‫محل ‪ Designer Studio‬الجديد إلى‬ ‫‪ Selfridges‬لدى ّ‬ ‫جانب عالمات خالقة أكثر عراق ًة مثل ‪Marques Almeida‬‬ ‫و‪ .Christopher Kane‬وفي قسم األكسسوارات الجديد‬ ‫المص ّمم من قبل ‪ ،David Chipperfield‬تجد خط ‪Chaos‬‬ ‫الخاص بأكسسوارات الهواتف والسفر من ابتكار خبيرتي‬ ‫ومستشارتي األسلوب ‪ Charlotte Stockdale‬و‪Katie‬‬ ‫‪ .Lyall‬يشمل مثالً أغلفة هواتف مصنوعة من جلد الغزال‬ ‫وبطاقات كبيرة تحمل الحروف األولى من اإلسم وحلقات مفاتيح‬ ‫تُعلّق على األمتعة أو حقائب اليد‪ ،‬وذلك خير دليل على أنّه ال‬ ‫يمكن حصر روح التصميم الفريدة من نوعها في لندن بحجمٍ‬ ‫معيّن‪.‬‬ ‫كل ما هو‬ ‫مع ابتعادنا عن التو ّجهات الكاسحة الحتضان ّ‬ ‫فردي ومختلف‪ ،‬نجد أ ّن مروحة المواهب الصاعدة في لندن‬ ‫مستعدّة لتلبية هذه الرغبة‪ .‬أدخل عالم هؤالء المص ّممين فتجد‬ ‫تحب البعض منها وال‬ ‫عالماً مص ّغرا ً من األفكار واألحاسيس‪ .‬قد ّ‬ ‫تستهويك أخرى‪ ،‬لكن من المؤكّد أنّك لن تجد أي شيء وسطي‪.‬‬

‫التي نقوم بها‪ ،‬سنتمكّن من بناء عالقة أوطد بين التجربة التي‬ ‫منصات العرض واللّحظة التي يستكشف فيها الزبائن‬ ‫نخلقها على ّ‬ ‫المجموعات بأنفسهم‪ .‬تعمل عروضنا على س ّد هذه الفجوة منذ‬ ‫بعض الوقت؛ فمن البثّ المباشر إلى طلب القطع مباشر ًة من‬ ‫العروض فالحمالت المباشرة على وسائل التواصل االجتماعي‪ ،‬تشكّل‬ ‫هذه الظاهرة الجديدة الخطوة األحدث في مسا ٍر ابتكاري ٍ‬ ‫ماض‬ ‫باالزدهار‪".‬‬ ‫تجدر اإلشارة إلى أ ّن مبادرة ‪ Burberry‬لم تقتصر على‬ ‫تقديم المالبس فقط للبيع مباشر ًة بعد عرض أزياء ربيع‪/‬صيف‬ ‫‪ ، 2017‬بل عرضت أيضاً مستحضرات التجميل التي تب ّرجت بها‬ ‫المنصة‪ .‬بالتالي بات بإمكان من‬ ‫العارضات لتكميل اإلطاللة على ّ‬ ‫يرغب اعتماد أسلوب ‪ Burberry‬من أعلى الرأس حتّى أخمص‬ ‫القدمين تحقيق ذلك في ٍ‬ ‫وقت قياسي‪ .‬وقُدّمت فرصة إضافيّة‬ ‫لمستخدمي تطبيق ‪ WeChat‬تمثّلت بإتاحة إمكانيّة شراء حقيبة‬ ‫‪ Bridle‬عبر التطبيق الغير‪.‬‬ ‫لكن لم تكن ‪ Burberry‬العالمة الوحيدة التي تعتمد للم ّرة‬ ‫األولى مبادرة الشراء المباشر بعد العرض في عروض ربيع‪/‬صيف‬ ‫كل من ‪ Ralph Lauren‬و‪Tommy‬‬ ‫‪ .2017‬فقد قدّمت ّ‬ ‫‪ Hilfiger‬و‪ Tom Ford‬مجموعات من هذا النوع وعبّر‬ ‫الكثير من ت ّجار هذه العالمات عن ارتفاع فوري بالمبيعات‪ .‬وأورد‬ ‫موقع ‪ Business of Fashion‬أ ّن ثالث قطع من مجموعة‬ ‫‪ Burberry‬نفدت تماماً بغضون ثالثة أيّام من العرض‪ .‬وأكّدت‬ ‫منصة تحليل البيع بالتجزئة ‪ Edited‬أ ّن األغراض الصغيرة‬ ‫ّ‬

‫‪Style On Demand :44‬‬

‫تألّق فوري‬

‫تتيح ظاهرة ‪ see now buy now‬الفرصة للمشترين بالحصول‬ ‫على مجموعات بعض العالمات التجاريّة البريطانيّة الرائدة مباشر ًة‬ ‫بعد العرض‪ .‬تتحقّق ‪ Sally McIlhone‬من الموضوع‬ ‫وشح فيه الوقت‪ ،‬بات مستهلك اليوم‬ ‫في مجتمعٍ كثر فيه المال ّ‬ ‫يريد خدمة توصيل الحاجات األساسيّة إليه‪ .‬وبالنسبة إلى أكثر‬ ‫الزبائن الفاخرين تألّقاً‪ ،‬تشمل هذه الحاجات أحدث التصاميم من‬ ‫كل‬ ‫أكثر العالمات العالميّة ابتكارا ً‪ .‬فبدالً من زيارة المتجر في بداية ّ‬ ‫موسم جديد للحصول على هذه التصاميم‪ ،‬أضحى باإلمكان شراء‬ ‫منصة عرض األزياء‪ .‬ل َم االنتظار ألشه ٍر لشراء‬ ‫هذه القطع من على ّ‬ ‫اللّباس الذي لَ َفتَك؟ بفضل هذه الظاهرة المعروفة بالشراء المباشر‬ ‫محب األزياء مجبرا ً على التحلّي بالصبر‪.‬‬ ‫بعد العرض‪ ،‬لم يعد ّ‬ ‫لطالما كانت ‪ Burberry‬سبّاقة في تطعيم عملها‬ ‫بالتكنولوجيا واألفكار الجديدة‪ ،‬وليس هذا الموسم باالستثناء‪ .‬في‬ ‫مطلع شباط‪/‬فبراير ‪ ،2016‬أعلنت العالمة أنّها ستقلّص عروض‬ ‫أزيائها من أربعة إلى إثنين في السنة‪ .‬وسيشمل هذان العرضان‬ ‫المالبس النسائيّة والرجاليّة ويتيحان فرصة الشراء المباشر بعد‬ ‫عرضي فبراير وسبتمبر‪ ،‬من المتجر أو عبر اإلنترنت‪ ،‬مع خدمة‬ ‫توصيل إلى ما يزيد عن ‪ٍ 100‬‬ ‫بلد حول العالم‪ .‬كما جمعت‬ ‫العالمة خطوطها الثالثة ‪ Porsum‬و‪ London‬و‪ Brit‬في عالمة‬ ‫‪ Burberry‬واحدة تستهدف محبّي التألّق في العالم أجمع‪.‬‬ ‫يشرح ‪ ،Christopher Bailey‬المدير التنفيذي والمدير‬ ‫االبتكاري لـ ‪ Burberry‬آنذاك قائالً‪" :‬من خالل التغييرات‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪87‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪Britain’s Got Talent :38‬‬

‫مواهب بريطانيا‬

‫يحقّق مص ّممو لندن الصاعدون نجاحا ً بعد آخر‪Harriet .‬‬ ‫‪ Quick‬تسلّط الضوء على األسماء الجديرة بالذكر‬

‫في حين كانت "المواهب الصاعدة" و"التصاميم المبتكرة" ترادف‬ ‫األلبسة المثيرة لالهتمام لكن غير القابلة لالرتداء‪ ،‬يجمع جيل‬ ‫قالب‬ ‫المص ّممين الجدد في لندن اليوم الزبون والتجارة في ٍ‬ ‫منصات العرض ملفتة‪ ،‬من‬ ‫واحد‪ .‬تشكيلة األذواق الموجودة على ّ‬ ‫أثواب ‪ Molly Goddard‬الشفّافة ذات التفاصيل الدقيقة إلى‬ ‫المالبس العمليّة الفاخرة الكثيرة الزخرفة من ‪.Roberta Einer‬‬ ‫ما يجمع هذه المقاربات المتباينة هو الشعور بعدم الخوف‬ ‫والذي يقدّم موجة جديدة من األسلوب‪ .‬لكن رغم سعي هذه‬ ‫المالبس إلى كسر القيود‪ ،‬إنّها مص ّممة مع أخذ الزبون الحقيقي‬ ‫بعين االعتبار‪.‬‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫بخطوة جريئة من خالل التميّز‬ ‫تقوم ‪Molly Goddard‬‬ ‫تماما ً عن غيرها وتجد تصاميمها في متجر ‪Dover Street‬‬ ‫‪ .Market‬يمكن تنسيق تصاميمها الشفّافة المل ّونة الفضفاضة مع‬ ‫سروال من الجينز أو مع فستان ‪ slip dress‬وقد أوجدت لنفسها‬ ‫مكاناً على خارطة األزياء بفضل فساتينها الفائقة األنوثة‪ ،‬اليافعة‬ ‫تقريباً‪ .‬قدّمت عرضها في أسبوع لندن للموضة على شكل حفلة‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫رقص صاخبة‪ ،‬حيث رقصت مجموعة من عارضات األزياء على‬ ‫المنصة في نهاية العرض‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تهوى الموضة األساليب الغنيّة التي تجمع األفكار وتتداولها‪،‬‬ ‫ويتميّز أسلوب ‪ Goddard‬األنثوي بالجرأة لك ّنه مرح في الوقت‬ ‫عينه‪ .‬ث ّمة تعبي ٌر مماثل عن الفرح في تصاميم ‪Roberta Einer‬‬ ‫المولودة في إستونيا والتي تعلّمت ف ّن الزخرفة لدى ‪Balmain‬‬ ‫في باريس‪ .‬تخيّل سترة جلديّة منتفخة فضفاضة‪ ،‬مكس ّوة بلوحة‬ ‫فسيفسائيّة من رموز الغرافيتي والتطريز أو ت ّنورة طويلة ضيّقة‬ ‫ِيب مط ّرزة بالخرز‪.‬‬ ‫مز ّودة بج ٍ‬ ‫تجد تصاميم ‪ Einer‬في متاجر راقية ومنها ‪Saks Fifth‬‬ ‫كل‬ ‫‪ Avenue‬في نيويورك؛ وتقول في هذا الصدد‪" :‬يستغرق ّ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫أحب تصميم القطع المميّزة‪ .‬يتطلّب‬ ‫لباس‬ ‫ساعات عدّة‪ ،‬لك ّنني ّ‬ ‫تصميم األزياء الشجاعة وأسعى إلى اإليحاء بالثقة‪ ".‬تستلهم‬ ‫المص ّممة هذا الموسم من أعمال الف ّنانين العصريّين ‪Yoko‬‬ ‫‪ Honda‬و‪ Jiro Bevis‬وتعيد بفطنة إحياء ف ّن الملصقات‬ ‫المحاذية ألحواض السباحة في الثمانينات من خالل الزخرفات‬ ‫التي اشتهرت بها‪ .‬تستخدم األقمشة الفاخرة حيث صور األشجار‬ ‫والنباتات والعصافير باإلضافة إلى شخصيّات مرسومة بالحبر‬ ‫للتذكير بشاطئ ميامي‪ .‬تجدر اإلشارة إلى أ ّن ‪ Einer‬قد جالت‬ ‫على المعارض الفنيّة والحدائق الموجودة في المدينة لإلستلهام‪،‬‬ ‫وتقول في هذا الصدد‪" :‬كنت أطّلع على المشهد الف ّني في ميامي‬ ‫في السبعينات عندما كانت ال تزال تتبع موجة ف ّن البوب"‪.‬‬ ‫تشكّل ‪ Einer‬جزءا ً من برنامج ‪Swarovski‬‬ ‫‪ Collective‬الذي يم ّول مواهب األزياء الشابّة ويدعمها‪.‬‬ ‫من األعضاء اآلخرين فيه المص ّممتان اللّندنيّتان اليافعتان‬ ‫‪ Faustine Steinmetz‬و‪.Grace Wales Bonner‬‬

‫تختص ‪ Steinmetz‬بالدّنيم المشغول يدويّاً وتستل ّذ في تحويل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫استثنائي‪ .‬تقول المص ّممة‬ ‫العناصر العاديّة أو العا ّمة إلى أم ٍر‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫المولودة في باريس لكن المستق ّرة في لندن إ ّن الدّنيم هو أ ّول‬ ‫قماش أجرت عليه االختبارات‪ .‬وعرضت المص ّممة مؤ ّخرا ً سرواالً‬ ‫من الجينز ال ُمد ّور ال ُمزخرف بـ ‪ 60‬ألف حجر ‪Swarovski‬‬ ‫أزرق مغروس باإلسفنج‪ ،‬كجزء من لوحتها الحيّة في أسبوع لندن‬ ‫للموضة‪ .‬قامت ‪ Steinmetz‬بأبحاث وتطويرات باهرة في‬ ‫مجال الدّنيم فاستحالت مستشارة بالنسيج لدى كثيرين‪.‬‬ ‫لكن ال تنحصر النجاحات بمص ّممي المالبس النسائيّة‬ ‫فحسب‪ .‬تخ ّرجت ‪ Grace Wales Bonner‬في كل ّية‬ ‫‪ Central St Martins‬سنة ‪ 2014‬وتلقى مالبسها الرجاليّة‬ ‫المميّزة بأسلوبها الهادئ رواجاً كبيرا ً‪ .‬الواقع أنّها تُحيك ثقاف ًة‬ ‫وشخصيّ ًة وذكريات في مالبسها المعبّرة عن كالمٍ عميقٍ ومشاعر‪،‬‬ ‫وقد ظهرت هذه المهارة للعلن عندما حازت جائزة ‪LVMH‬‬ ‫للمص ّممين اليافعين سنة ‪ .2016‬أكثر ما يميّز ‪Wales‬‬ ‫‪ Bonner‬هو تخلّيها عن األفكار التقليديّة المرتبطة بالنوع‬ ‫االجتماعي في األزياء‪ .‬قد تكون مجموعاتها مص ّنفة كمالبس‬ ‫رجاليّة لكن ترغبها النساء تماماً كالرجال وسبق أن عرضتها متاجر‬ ‫راقية على سبيل ‪ Matches‬كجزء من مجموعاتها للمالبس‬ ‫النسائيّة لربيع‪/‬صيف ‪.2017‬‬ ‫أسست ‪Lulu‬‬ ‫تشتهر لندن باحتضان مواهبها المحليّة‪ّ .‬‬ ‫منصة األزياء ‪ Fashion East‬التي ال تبغي‬ ‫‪ّ Kennedy‬‬ ‫الربح سنة ‪ 2000‬وهي من أبرز داعمي المص ّممين اليافعين‬

SOUVEN I R

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