SHOP London Lux SS18

LONDON | 伦敦 | ЛОНДОН |

LONDON Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2018

EXPLORE LONDON: discover the luxury boutiques and chic sights of the British capital

EDITOR’S LETTER

Austria Barcelona Belgium Copenhagen

捷克 Germany

‫أملانيا‬ 德国 Германия Gothenburg Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Lebanon London Madrid Milan Oslo

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this innovative and cosmopolitan capital city. London has much to offer, as our guide on page 48 reveals. Readers who appreciate world-class fashion will enjoy our feature on Britain’s uniquely flamboyant designers (page 38) and also in this issue we also celebrate this year’s royal wedding with a look at the beautiful tiaras made by Garrard, jeweller to the Queen and her family (page 14). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 19% when shopping in the UK. We publish guides to the most prestigious destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in London. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the new SHOP TAX FREE app, which is available now – find all the details in our guide section in this issue. Calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.

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EMMA CHEEVERS

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Welcome to London

24 Albemarle Street, London, W1S 4HT www.garrard.com

CONTRIBUTORS ANDREW NYE

RUAIRIDH PRITCHARD SHOP’s acting deputy editor Ruairidh Pritchard is from the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. He studied journalism in Glasgow and now lives in south-east London. Ruairidh is an avid traveller and has written about fashion, art, culture and food for a variety of publications. globalblue.com

SELINA TAN Selina Tan, SHOP’s picture assistant, spent three years living and working in Hong Kong, where she retouched images for publications such as Time and InStyle while discovering a love for travel photography. In her spare time she enjoys gardening and watching live gigs.

AARON CARLINE Graphic designer Aaron Carline, a senior artworker at SHOP, is passionate about editorial design and zine culture. In his spare time he can often be found in vintage clothing stores searching for rare finds, watching David Lynch films or listening to 1990s hip hop.

ILLUSTRATION: ANDREW NYE; PHOTOS: (LEFT) MICHAEL CHAPMAN; (RIGHT) GRACE BIRD

Andrew Nye created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP London Luxury. His striking conceptual style is perfectly showcased by this image featuring key buildings of London’s skyline on the eyelashes of a model. In silhouette are the Gherkin, the Shard, the Walkie Talkie, Tower Bridge, Big Ben and St Paul’s Cathedral. Andrew’s previous clients include Barclays and Eurostar. Discover SHOP London Luxury and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

MAXMARA.COM LONDON - 19/21 OLD BOND ST HARVEY NICHOLS, 109-125 KNIGHTSBRIDGE (FRANCHISEE MAX MARA)

SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L

PUBLISHING

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Acting deputy editor Ruairidh Pritchard Cover illustrator Andrew Nye Contributor Hamish Monk Production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion and lifestyle writer Rebecca Rhys-Evans News editor Ginger Rose Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Katie Byrne, Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Hayley Moseley Artworker Onur Unaltay Artworking assistant Tatjiana Antoniou Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Acting online managing editor Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese production editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editors Yangzi Liang, Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Senior Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistant Inga Abramian Marketing intern Joanna Dodge

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Digital production assistant Linda Hau Production assistant Chris Bigg Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing manager Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2018 Global Blue

CONTENTS

PRODUCTS 14

Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from London this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of London’s best dressed at the spring/summer 2018 shows

NEWS

Shop Window One store not to be missed in London News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products plus, in celebration of the royal wedding, we look at the royal couple’s signature style in our In Focus section

FEATURE

LONDON GUIDE

Cool Britannia Britain’s leading fashion designers are uniquely flamboyant and admired the world over. Their reputation shows no sign of waning, says Ruairidh Pritchard

EXPERIENCE 44

Table Talk Afternoon tea is a delicious and quintessentially British custom, and London offers a number of wonderfully glamorous venues in which to enjoy it. Hamish Monk takes a tasting tour

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of London

ESSENTIALS 65

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS 66 68 72

中文翻译 Русский Перевод

‫ترجمة باللّغة العربيّة‬

POSTCARD 74

Above (from left): Pringle of Scotland spring/summer 2018; Fortnum & Mason savoury afternoon tea

SHOP writes home about one of the UK’s oldest luxury brands, Mackintosh

PHOTO: (RIGHT) © NICOLAS BUISSON 2015

LO N D O N

LO N D O N 129 S LO A N E S T R E E T + 4 4 2 07 24 598 0 0 H A R R O D S F I R S T F LO O R 87 - 13 5 B R O M P T O N R O A D + 4 4 2 07 73 012 34 E S C A D A . CO M

CHECK OUT

CROWNING GLORIES The House of Garrard is one of the oldest jewellers in the world, with records dating back to 1735, the year it received its first royal commission. A long relationship with the British royal family ensued and Garrard was appointed Crown Jeweller in 1843. It has made many royal tiaras, necklaces, brooches and other bejewelled pieces, including Princess Diana’s sapphire engagement ring, now worn by the Duchess of Cambridge. In view of the splendour surrounding this year’s royal wedding, browsing the tiara collection at Garrard’s Mayfair boutique is a must. Tiaras were designed by Garrard for Queen Victoria, in particular in 1870 when she was mourning Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 65

her late husband Prince Albert and struggled to wear a heavy crown to formal events. The pieces in the house’s Princess tiara collection are made with white diamonds and feature removable centrepieces that can be worn as pendants. Exemplifying British craftsmanship and style, there are three designs in the range; the Charlotte (pictured), the Beatrice and, new this year, the Alice. rre Garrard Charlotte tiara, price on request, House of Garrard, 24 Albemarle Street, London W1S 4HT, +44 (0)20 7518 1070, garrard.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54

27 BRUTON STREET, LONDON, W1J 6QN 6-7 COLVILLE MEWS, LONSDALE, LONDON, W11 2DA WWW.TEMPERLEYLONDON.COM

16 | P R O D U C T S Roland Mouret top, £650, Roland Mouret, 8 Carlos Place, London W1K 3AS, +44 (0)20 7518 0700, rolandmouret.com

Alexander McQueen bag, £1,490, Alexander McQueen, 4-5 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4PD, +44 (0)20 7355 0088, alexandermcqueen.com

Max Mara sunglasses, £220, Max Mara, 19/21 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4PU, +44 (0)20 7499 7902, maxmara.com

THINK

PINK For an elegant summer look team a rose coloured ensemble with black accessories

Castañer x Manolo Blahnik espadrilles, £335, Browns, 23-27 South Molton Street, London W1K 5RD, +44 (0)20 7514 0016, castaner.com

Salvatore Ferragamo earrings, £285, Salvatore Ferragamo, 24 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4AL, +44 (0)20 7629 5007, ferragamo.com

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 65

Roland Mouret skirt, £995, Roland Mouret, 8 Carlos Place, London W1K 3AS, +44 (0)20 7518 0700, rolandmouret.com

Jewels Verne Collection Stephen Webster Salon 130 Mount Street Mayfair, W1K 3NY 0203 298 0970

Stephen Webster Harrods, Knightsbridge, SW1X 7XL 0203 036 6176

18 | P R O D U C T S

Jimmy Choo clutch, £895, Jimmy Choo, 27 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RH, +44 (0)20 7493 5858, jimmychoo.com

SUMMER NIGHTS

Opt for all-out glamour with a stunning floral gown and shimmering accessories

Annoushka earrings, £1,500, Annoushka, 41 Cadogan Gardens, London SW3 2TB, +44 (0)20 7881 5828, annoushka.com

Rupert Sanderson shoes, £725, Rupert Sanderson, 19 Bruton Place, London W1J 6LZ, +44 (0)20 7491 2260, rupertsanderson.com

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 65

Erdem dress, £3,375, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, erdem.com

PHOTO: (CLUTCH) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY

Pippa Small ring, £2,600, Pippa Small, 201 Westbourne Grove, London W11 2SB, +44 (0)20 7792 1292, pippasmall.com

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TOP Elevate a combination of classic white shirt and black trousers with shades of brown and a statement bag

Mulberry wallet, £175, Mulberry, 50 New Bond Street, London W1S 1BJ, +44 (0)20 7491 3900, mulberry.com

Thomas Pink shirt, £175, Thomas Pink, 85 Jermyn Street, London SW1Y 6JD, +44 (0)20 7930 6364, thomaspink.com

Tod’s belt, £280, Tod’s, 2-5 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4PD, +44 (0)20 7493 2237, tods.com

PHOTO: (SHIRT) JASPAL BHAMBRA

Bottega Veneta bag, £1,125, Bottega Veneta, 33 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9NR, +44 (0)20 7838 9394, bottegaveneta.com

Christian Louboutin shoes, £825, Christian Louboutin, 35 Dover Street, London W1S 4NQ, +44 (0)843 227 4322, christianlouboutin.com

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Ami trousers, £170, Ami, 75 Duke Street, London W1K 5PA, +44 (0)20 7499 0290, amiparis.com

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Wild & Gorgeous headband, £19, Wild & Gorgeous, 52 Ledbury Road, London W11 2AJ, +44 (0)20 7229 5855, wildandgorgeous.co.uk

COOL KIDS Celebrate the arrival of the royal baby with the best of British childrenswear brands

No Added Sugar dress, £110, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)20 7160 6222 (international), noaddedsugar.com

Burberry bag, £350, Burberry, 21-23 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RE, +44 (0)20 7980 8425, burberry.com

Liberty two-piece, £63, Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, libertylondon.com

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 65

Sophia Webster shoes, £175, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, sophiawebster.com

HANS ROAD, KNIGHTSBRIDGE | CONDUIT STREE T, M AYFAIR KINGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; S ROAD, CHELSE A

rigbyandpeller.com

STREET STYLE Neutral shades and top textures reigned supreme at the spring/ summer 2018 London shows. Muted shades met oversized shapes for the street style set, and statement bags from the likes of JW Anderson, Shrimps and ChloĂŠ were must-haves to complete the ensemble

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

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globalblue.com

SHOP WINDOW

The latest venture by celebrated British retailer Browns opened in Shoreditch in October. Browns East is part of the new Browns Nomad project, an innovative response to current shifts in shopping patterns. The recently opened concept store plays host to a constantly changing edit of fashion, furniture, fragrance and more laid out over two floors. The space is punctuated by art installations enhancing the shopping experience, and independent creatives are given free run of the entrance area. An immersive experience room features a changing series of takeovers and there’s an event space Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 65

for workshops and talks. Visitors receive the best in customer service thanks to state-of-theart technology, and staff will help you find products from the Brown’s catalogue that aren’t in store. Once you’ve shopped to your heart’s content, take in the art on display in the gallery before enjoying a sweet treat at the marble café, which is home to a Fatties Bakery pop-up. grc Browns East, 21 Club Row, London E2 7EY, +44 (0)20 7729 2666, brownsfashion.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 59

PHOTO: ED REEVE

BROWNS GOES EAST

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MAYFAIR DEBUT London-based luxury designer Huishan Zhang has opened his very first store, which is set in one of the British capital’s most desirable shopping areas, Mount Street in Mayfair. Devised in collaboration with celebrated interior designer Fran Hickman, the shop is an intimate reflection of Huishan Zhang’s eponymous brand, which mixes Eastern heritage and Western influences. The interior is inspired by Chinese gardens, and the resulting space feels very private and personal. The shop is the perfect backdrop for Huishan Zhang’s collections, which are romantic and sophisticated, with elegant, feminine details and strong lines. The brand’s studio is also housed at the London boutique, enabling customers to book one-to-one appointments for bespoke pieces. shc Huishan Zhang, 5B Mount Street, London W1K 3NE, +44 (0)20 7629 9466, huishanzhang.com

First unveiled at Milan Fashion Week in September, the highly anticipated Ashley Graham for Marina Rinaldi capsule collection features a full range of denim-focused casualwear for women. The collection translates the American model’s relaxed and unabashed femininity into a versatile clothing line that offers items likely to become wardrobe staples, such as tops, skirts and jackets (pictured, £706). Made from specially developed denim fabrics, all the pieces have been co-designed by Graham to capture the essence of her positive and exciting personality. js Marina Rinaldi, 5 Albemarle Street, London W1S 4HF, +44 (0)20 7629 4454, marinarinaldi.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) CLEMENCE LAUCHARD

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 52

DENIM DUO

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 65

77 NEW BOND STREET LONDON W1S 1RY TEL: 0207 629 8983 CASHMERE & FINE WOOLLENS MADE IN SCOTLAND

JOHNSTONSOFELGIN.COM

28 | N E W S

ONE TO

WATCH LE MONDE BERYL Up-and-coming shoe brand Le Monde Beryl has joined forces with Latin American accessories label Mola Sasa for spring/summer 2018. Featuring mules, such as these slippers (£305), in beautifully patterned designs, the capsule collection is Le Monde Beryl’s first collaboration. The British brand was established in 2016, taking Venetian slippers as a starting point to create simple and elegant footwear. Mola Sasa helps to empower women from the Caiman Alto region of Colombia, supporting local craftsmanship through its handmade textiles. grc Matches Fashion, 87 Marylebone High Street, London W1U 4QU, +44 (0)20 7487 5400, lemondeberyl.com

WATCH THIS SPACE Luxury timepiece brand Officine Panerai has opened a chic store on New Bond Street, its first standalone boutique in the UK. The new spacious store is the brand’s second largest in Europe, eclipsed only by Officine Panerai’s flagship in Florence. At the boutique customers can browse the Radiomir and Luminor ranges as well as clocks and special editions before paying a visit to the in-house watchmaker. The brand was founded in 1860 as a boutique, workshop and watchmaking school. For years it was the official supplier of precision instruments to the Italian navy, in particular equipping commando frogmen. Today it develops and produces its own movements and timepieces, combining Italian design with Swiss horological craftsmanship. rre Officine Panerai, 30 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RW, +44 (0)20 3057 7080, panerai.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 53

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 65

IN BRIEF British jeweller Dinny Hall has opened a new store on Marylebone Lane, a stone’s throw from Oxford Street. Head here to browse the brand’s latest sleek designs including stunning rings, necklaces and earrings

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SUMMER KNIT Pringle of Scotland showcases the diverse nature of yarn for spring/summer 2018. The Scottish design house pioneered knitwear for all seasons, and its new collection features a range of textures and materials. Rustic looking raw silk pieces are inspired by baskets from the Shetland Islands, and featherweight items seem almost translucent. The collection also continues the brand’s celebration of storytelling. This season early 19th-century knitter Betty Mouat is an inspiration; she appeared, with her knitted work intact, on the coast of Norway after nine days adrift at sea. The collection’s organic pieces pay tribute to her stoicism and her knitting talent. rre Pringle of Scotland, 94 Mount Street, London W1K 2SZ, +44 (0)20 3011 0031, pringlescotland.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 52

MR & MRS ITALY ARRIVES Mr & Mrs Italy has opened a sleek new store in the heart of the West End. Originally focused on parkas, the Italian brand has expanded its offering and its range now includes jackets, T-shirts, sweaters and more, all made in Italy by expert craftsmen. Visit the London store on Old Bond Street to shop the spring/ summer 2018 travel-inspired collections for men and women. Key styles include parkas and bombers in a wide range of fabrics. Military influences as well as embroidery, prints and patches give this season’s designs plenty of panache. grc Mr & Mrs Italy, 38 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4QW, +44 (0)20 7491 9857, mmi.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54 globalblue.com

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ESCADA MOVES IN Escada has opened a new flagship on Chelsea’s Sloane Street. The walls of the chic new store feature handpainted gold leaf motifs, and the space is dotted with bright objets d’art and books. Known for its contemporary and colourful designs, Escada offers something for every occasion, be it an elegant dress or a casual outfit. The new flagship carries the brand’s mainline and sport collections. This season’s mainline looks are defined by bold colours, stripes and embellishments, while the sport collection has a laid-back feel, with pastel shades, sportswear influences and simple silhouettes. grc Escada, 129 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9AT, +44 (0)20 7245 9800, escada.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 58

This season Coach presents a collection that pays tribute to New York pop artist Keith Haring. The brand’s British creative director, Stuart Vevers, was inspired by Haring’s graffiti style and painterly prints. Highlights of the new range include bomber and suede jackets, T-shirts, sweaters and bags with the artist’s distinctive line drawings. Our favourite is the Skater Souvenir varsity jacket in deep clementine (£650). Founded in New York in 1941, Coach started out as a leather goods and accessories brand with a particular emphasis on craftsmanship ‒ a heritage the label continues to celebrate today. grc Coach, 206 Regent Street, London W1B 5BN, +44 (0)20 7734 8472, coach.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 55

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 65

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) KEITH HARING FNDT

POP ART REVISITED

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IRISH INSPIRATION Waterford, the luxury glass maker, recently introduced four new collections with a classic yet contemporary feel. These range from tableware to homeware and include decanters, vases and candlesticks. Waterford was founded by two brothers in 1783 in the Irish town of the same name, and the brand continues to draw on its heritage for its designs. Among the new ranges, the Treasures of the Sea collection comprises four designs which are based on pieces from the Waterford archive ‒ the Colleen, Alana, Tramore and Araglin patterns, each originally inspired by the people and nature of Ireland. These latest full-lead crystal designs are stunning examples of Waterford’s exquisite craftsmanship. grc Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, waterford.co.uk FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 57

IN THE MIX After a successful first collaboration for autumn/winter, Dsquared2 and K-Way combine forces for a second season, with a series of pieces for men and women. The luxury fashion label and the French outerwear brand cleverly fuse their respective styles. Pieces include waterproof denim shorts and hooded jackets with a transparent plastic coating featuring K-Way’s signature striped zips. The collaborative items are incorporated into Dsquared2’s spring/summer collection, which melds Hawaiian allusions with western influences and a scouting theme. grc Dsquared2, 51 Conduit Street, London W1S 2YP, +44 (0)20 7734 3492, dsquared2.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54 globalblue.com

IN FOCUS:

Royal STYLE

PHOTO: VENZINBUEHLER PHOTO: (WATCH) TIM ROOKE/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK

In celebration of the royal wedding, we take a look at the signature style of the royal couple, highlighting the brands they love and where to buy them

PHOTOS: (CATWALK) © DAN AND CORINA LECCA; (WATCH) VENZINBÜHLER FOTOGRAPHIE; (BRACELET) © CARTIER

S H O P | 33

John Lobb is shoemaker to many of Britain’s finest, including Prince Harry himself. These navy Hayle brogues (£1,080) are a highlight of the latest collection.

Luxury watchmaker Breitling is one of Prince Harry’s go-to brands. Follow his lead with the stylish Aerospace Evo (£3,260).

John Lobb, 88 Jermyn Street, London SW1Y 6JD, +44 (0)20 7930 8089, johnlobb.com

Breitling, 130 New Bond Street, London W1S 2TA, +44 (0)20 7499 8596, breitling.com

For the announcement of the pair’s engagement, Meghan chose Aquazzura’s beautiful Matilde pumps in a neutral shade.We love this bright red version of the style (£420).

Prince Harry is just one of many British royals who have relied on the expert skills of Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes for made-to-measure suiting. Gieves & Hawkes, 1 Savile Row, London W1S 3JR, +44 (0)20 7434 2001, gievesandhawkes.com

Prince Harry bought Meghan a Cartier Love bracelet (£5,600) last year and she has worn it ever since. It’s a classic that never goes out of style.

Aquazzura, 38 Albemarle Street, London W1S 4JG, +44 (0)20 3828 0433, aquazzura.com

Meghan is a big fan of Victoria Beckham, and this look from the British designer’s latest collection embraces the neutral tones that the new royal loves. Victoria Beckham, 36 Dover Street, London W1S 4NH, +44 (0)20 7042 0700, victoriabeckham.com globalblue.com

Cartier, 175-177 New Bond Street, London W1S 4RN, +44 (0)20 7408 9192, cartier.com

SHOP SPOTLIGHT: JOHN BELL & CROYDEN

n the 220 years since it was founded, pharmacy John Bell & Croyden has delighted millions of customers. Its Wigmore Street store was opened by the Lord Mayor of London in 1912 and offers an outstanding array of wellbeing and beauty products â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from the best British brands to the most exciting and effective health items from across the world. Passionate about healthcare and wellbeing, the pharmacy offers more than 12,000 products (many of which it introduced to the UK for the first time), each one handpicked by industry experts.

Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 65

Unsurprisingly, the boutique is a favourite among the rich and famous; it has even been pharmacy to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II since 1958. The royal warrant-holding store is on the ground floor of a historic block, just a few moments away from the bustle of Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous Oxford Street. It was renovated in 2015 and now more than ever is a sleek, luxurious space. The new design embraces original features and respects the tradition of the brand, mixing this heritage with a fresh and modern aesthetic that makes the most of

S H O P | 35

PHOTO: (RIGHT) SIXTUS SOLOMON

Pharmacy to Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II since 1958 the building’s large and long windows. ‘There aren’t many pharmacies in London that can truly call themselves premium,’ says director Robin Winfield. ‘Yet a swift stroll off the beaten track and you will find exactly that.’ The unrivalled selection of health and beauty products encompasses everything from fragrances to fitness products and skincare to health foods. In addition, visitors can enjoy treatments in the InResidence room and get advice on more specialist treatments from instore experts who will guide them to London’s leading practitioners. With all this and more,

John Bell & Croyden offers something for everyone; even the most knowledgeable of health and beauty aficionados are likely to discover something new here, whether it’s the perfect skin-brightening serum or the latest health supplement. This is a must-visit destination on your trip to London, and one you’ll come back to time and again. John Bell & Croyden, 50-54 Wigmore Street, London W1U 2AU, +44 (0)20 7935 5555, johnbellcroyden.co.uk

Above (from left): John Bell & Croyden store; the pharmacy’s director Robin Winfield

COOL

Whether long-time style heroes or younger creatives, Britain’s leading fashion designers are uniquely flamboyant and are admired the world over. Their reputation shows no sign of waning, says Ruairidh Pritchard

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Above: Anya Hindmarch spring/summer 2018

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

BRITAN

NIA

40 | F E AT U R E

ritish culture has held a decades-long reputation for cool, from the mods and rockers of the 1960s and the punk rock of the 70s to the new romantics of the 80s, the Brit-pop of the 90s and the bohemian chic and indie grunge of the 2000s. Nowhere is this more evident than in Britain’s fashion, whether through long-established labels or through younger designers. In fashion, the 90s catchphrase of Cool Britannia is just as valid now as it was then. In the midst of the emerging punk scene in 70s London, Vivienne Westwood began designing clothes. She opened her first store, Let it Rock (later renamed Sex and today known as Worlds End), on King’s Road in 1971 and soon began dressing the members of the Sex Pistols. So started an era of British fashion directly inspired by the designer’s unapologetically punk attitude. She became renowned in the international fashion world and remains so today. In her spring/summer 2018 catwalk show, Westwood presented a collection as politically charged as ever. White shirts covered in scrawled statements about waste and consumerism were shown alongside T-shirts emblazoned with slogans about saving the rainforests. Raw-hemmed knitwear was covered in activist graffiti and one style featured a large black footprint - a reference to the world’s ever-increasing carbon emissions. The designer’s signature structural dresses and architectural tailored pieces were in evidence, too, in addition to blouses, shirts and trousers embellished with a new-season print inspired by playing cards. The collection was shown by a mixed troupe of statuesque models and crowd-pleasing acrobats who performed down the runway. Another design hero who started out in the 1970s is Paul Smith, a man whose passion for British subcultures and music movements has played an important role in his much-celebrated designs. Over the years, Smith has been heavily influenced by his love of music, in particular that of his teenage idols and later friends and customers, Jimmy Page and David Bowie. For spring/summer 2018 Smith takes inspiration from his youth, revisiting the Above (from left): a look from Vivienne Westwood; Paul Smith, both spring/summer 2018

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PHOTO: (RIGHT) © GORUNWAY.COM

billowing silhouettes and vivid prints that helped define the Northern Soul music and dance movement of his adolescent years and that inspired his signature floral prints. Tailored pieces for men and women (for which the brand is famous) feature notched lapels, low break points and square shoulders, giving a nod to some of the designer’s 1980s pieces. New-season bright Hawaiian print shirts and striped beach-style bags add a touch of resort to the collection. Victoria Beckham has been one of the world’s most famous women for more than two decades. One fifth of the sensation that was

For spring/summer 2018, Westwood’s collection was as politically charged as ever globalblue.com

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photographed women – famous fans include Rihanna, Angelina Jolie and the Duchess of Cambridge. For spring/summer 2018 the designer has turned her attention to the everyday. She describes her aesthetic as ‘British, humorous and personalised’, and for this collection takes inspiration from British suburban culture. Designs and materials have been influenced by the housecoats and wallpapers typical of British family homes in the 70s. Key styles include metallic clutches, tall totes and bag accessories, most noticeably oversized, cartoonish padded bag charms made with soft nappa leather. Whether it’s the punk-infused looks of Vivienne Westwood, the striking styles of Paul Smith, the strong, feminine collections of Victoria Beckham or the eccentric accessories of Anya Hindmarch, Britain’s leading fashion designers remain thoughtful, original and above all cool. Long may their work continue Above (both): Victoria Beckham spring/summer 2018

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

the pop group the Spice Girls, she has had a strong influence on the style of a generation of women. In 2008, Beckham took her status as style legend one step further, launching an eponymous fashion label that would go on to win the British Fashion Award’s Brand of the Year prize in 2011. Today she is one of the country’s most exciting and respected fashion designers. This season’s collection is one of her most celebrated to date, contrasting traditionally feminine elements – light fabrics such as chiffon and wool voile – with workwear-inspired checks drawn from technical textbooks. Bold colours, Play-Doh shades and what the designer refers to as ‘neon pastels’ saturate the standout pieces. ‘This collection is delicate, but it isn’t fragile’, notes Beckham. Another name to celebrate is Anya Hindmarch, whose trademark handbags are so much more than accessories. Hindmarch founded her bag empire in the 1980s and has since seen great success. She was the first accessories designer to hold an on-schedule London Fashion Week show, and her bags have been worn by some of the world’s most

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Hindmarchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection takes inspiration from British suburban culture

Above (all): Anya Hindmarch spring/summer 2018

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TABLE TALK Afternoon tea is a delicious and quintessentially British custom, and London offers a number of wonderfully glamorous venues in which to enjoy it. Hamish Monk selects four of the best

There a very few things that are more British than a cup of tea. The country’s obsession with drinking tea dates back to the 17th century, but the custom of taking afternoon tea, an altogether grander ceremony, was introduced in the 1840s. The story goes that it was a solution to the hunger that Anna, the seventh Duchess of Bedford, felt around 4pm. Initially taking the form of bread and butter (later sandwiches), cake and a pot of tea, afternoon tea quickly became a habit of Anna’s. She often invited her friends to join her, and they transformed her afternoon tea habit into a British high society convention. In time hotels and tea rooms across the country offered their own afternoon teas. Today taking afternoon tea is still one of the most glamorous ways to spend an afternoon in London, and venues include some of the capital’s landmark hotels as well as restaurants and tea rooms in luxury department stores. We’ve selected four of the very best places in London to have afternoon tea. globalblue.com

THE RITZ One of London’s landmark hotels, the Ritz was founded by famous Swiss hotelier César Ritz and first opened its doors in 1906. The hotel immediately became popular with many of Britain’s most prominent members of high society, from prime ministers and royalty to socialites and actors. In 2002 it became the first hotel in Britain to be granted a royal warrant. Today the Ritz is still among the capital’s most splendid hotels and it serves one of the most luxurious afternoon teas in the city. Held in the beautiful gilded Palm Court, afternoon tea at the Ritz is almost ceremonial in its grandeur. It offers a choice of 18 types of loose-leaf tea, including the Ritz Royal blend available only at the hotel, along with an exquisite selection of finely cut sandwiches and freshly baked scones (served with Cornish clotted cream and strawberry preserve), mouthwatering cakes and delicate pastries. For the ultimate indulgence, afternoon tea here can be enjoyed with a glass of the Ritz’s own champagne. The Ritz, 150 Piccadilly, London W1J 9BR, +44 (0)20 7493 8181, theritzlondon.com

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FORTNUM & MASON The oldest department store in the world, Fortnum & Mason has been serving fine food to Londoners since 1707. Known for its gourmet hampers, fine wines, spirits and teas, the store also provides one of the best afternoon teas in the city. In the Diamond Jubilee Tea Salon, which was opened in 2012 by Her Majesty the Queen, the menu offers a selection of finger sandwiches (including Fortnum’s own smoked salmon and a contemporary twist on traditional cucumber sandwiches) and scones served with Somerset clotted cream and a choice of Fortnum & Mason preserves. In addition there’s a cake carriage containing all manner of sweet treats that can be enjoyed alongside a choice of pastries. The real star, however, is the tea itself, with more than 50 varieties to choose from. Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, London W1A 1ER, +44 (0)20 7734 8040, fortnumandmason.com

Sketch, in the exclusive Mayfair district, is one of London’s most fashionable restaurants. Led by Hervé Deville, Sketch’s executive head chef, and Christophe Gasper, the restaurant’s head of pastry, the afternoon tea experience here is a playful mix of tradition and contemporary luxury. The menu includes classic afternoon tea fare, the likes of sultana and plain scones served with clotted cream and jams, and assorted finger sandwiches. There are also flamboyant flourishes such as quail eggs served with Oscietra caviar. A selection of handpicked teas ranges from Sketch’s own blend to Japanese sencha tea. To finish, guests can enjoy a slice of banana loaf filled with layers of creamy fudge, and a selection of tantalising cakes, including Caribbean chocolate and coffee tart and exotic fruit and lime cheesecake. Sketch, 9 Conduit Street, London W1S 2XG, +44 (0)20 7659 4500, sketch.london globalblue.com

PHOTO: PHOTO: (TOP)XXXX © NICOLAS BUISSON 2015

SKETCH

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THE ZETTER TOWNHOUSE CLERKENWELL One of London’s most charming Georgian properties, the Zetter Townhouse in the Clerkenwell district is a relatively new addition to the range of afternoon tea venues across the capital. You’re served tea in the hotel’s intimate cocktail lounge, strikingly decorated to emulate a grand private residence. There’s a choice between Aunt Wilhelmina’s selection of dainty sandwiches (classics such as smoked salmon and cream cheese, and coronation chicken), and Uncle Seymour’s hearty treats, which feature truffled sausage rolls and mini croque

monsieurs. Both menus include traditional freshly baked plain and raisin scones served with Cornish clotted cream and strawberry jam, and delicious cakes such as the indulgent salted caramel and apple choux bun. The selection of teas runs from traditional Earl Grey to an exotic white peony variety, and you can also opt to enjoy tea with a house cocktail or a glass of champagne. The Zetter Townhouse Clerkenwell, 49-50 St John’s Square, London EC1V 4JJ, +44 (0)20 7324 4545, thezettertownhouse.com

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to London with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations. Visit the city’s oldest cocktail bar and take in far-reaching views from the London Eye ferris wheel (pictured). Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.

PHOTO: 964424 CC0 CREATIVE COMMONS

LONDON GUIDE

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Mount Street, Davies Street & Bruton Street

● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ● TURNBULL & ASSER BOURDON STREE T

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● DELFINA DELETTREZ ● CÉLINE ● CREED ● MARNI PRINGLE OF ● SCOTLAND P.29 ● GEORG JENSEN ● STEPHEN WEBSTER

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● JAMES PURDEY & SONS LTD ● LONB LONDON

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SELECTED STORES IN SELFRIDGES: Tiffany & Co Manolo Blahnik

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Celebrated French chef Claude Bosi has breathed new life into one of South Kensington’s premier restaurants, Bibendum. First opened in 1987, Bibendum was acclaimed for its flamboyant dishes. Bosi holds two Michelin stars and has reinvented the restaurant’s cuisine with contemporary twists on classic dishes, including beef fillet with red cabbage, Sturia Oscietra caviar and oysters, and Brittany rabbit with langoustine and artichoke. Bibendum’s new stance as the home of contemporary French fine dining in London is already winning accolades from the capital’s food lovers. Claude Bosi at Bibendum, 81 Fulham Road, London SW3 6RD, +44 (0)20 7581 5817, bibendum.co.uk Hotel

Restaurant

PHOTO: STEVEN JOYCE

DAVIE S STR EET

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CLAUDE BOSI AT BIBENDUM

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Featured In This Issue

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Conduit Street & Old Bond Street ● C H ’S KES ● HUR H AW ●C RKS ES & CL A G IE V N OW IS O MA LA ● ILE R P.31 OUR S AV ●F R G IE T ● D2 MA G O A IV E R ARE S G A SQU OL EY ● TEN ● D -3 A D ID IYA K E B OA E E N IN D IA ALD ● Y SEY M ET SW T ● i ’s TRE OZ W S n S N ● EAS ANY ● IS G TO ecco AKE IN R C T H E CO M P c h L ●D BUR t S N OLD S ke OTO ● I● & SO ELL AM TO N AM U C IN S● NOR JI Y ● LO C AT O B IE YO H M NEL A RV M● BRU CRO NV E C ● U M NE JOH N A L IQ IE N T ESO V IV M A N ● ●L R EE RSH K ST L HE OOD RNO ● CO R TI N IE ST W A ETE H● N OT WE ●D OD TOS E Z A ST WO ● C K IN K L E Y EPP WE MA IU S NE HOC LLER ● ●G N P.74 IE N O E IV I IT &P LD ● UTI IP P ●V ●K O L BY I● A F IL BER CK G R IG H N ● BLA FA R E A B IA S E L IC O L E ROB ●F ET D IE N ARD TRE ●W DS

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One of the most respected and renowned cocktail bars in the world, the American Bar at the Savoy hotel is London’s oldest such venue. While its name may hint at drinks from across the pond, its new Coast to Coast cocktail menu is thoroughly British. With drinks inspired by picturesque English gardens and by Sherwood Forest as well as by the Pennine mountain range and Edinburgh’s Castle Rock, the new menu takes customers on a scenic journey across the British Isles – all in the comfort of the historic and stylishly decorated bar. The American Bar at the Savoy, Strand, London WC2R 0EZ, +44 (0)20 7836 4343, fairmont.com

Le Caprice

CAD

THE AMERICAN BAR AT THE SAVOY

Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

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BALMAIN

Regent Street GR EAT C ASTLE STREET

LEVI’S ●

● NIKETOWN

H&M ●

● TOPSHOP/TOPMAN

OXFORD CIRCUS BENETTON ●

KAREN MILLEN ● TED BAKER ● APPLE ● LACOSTE ●

OX FO RD ST ● TEZENIS

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● OMEGA

REGENT STREE T

ASICS ●

LONGCHAMP ● MOLTON BROWN ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● TORY BURCH ●

● & OTHER STORIES ● ACCESSORIZE

● ARMANI EXCHANGE ● ALL SAINTS ● H&M STUART M ● WEITZMAN A SC U TU ● AQ U ● COACH EE T GH STR AY U D K O R EE O ●W LB T MAR

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FURLA ● HOBBS ● BARKER ● TUMI ● CAMPER ● KIPLING ● CLARKS ●

Liberty

● COS ● DESIGUAL

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● HOUSE OF HANOVER

French fashion house Balmain is having something of a moment. Headed by creative director Olivier Rousteing, it has recently become the go-to brand for fashion aficionados and celebrities alike. At its London store on Mayfair’s South Audley Street, guests will discover the label’s fashion-forward menswear, womenswear and accessories, including one of the most coveted bags of the season. The Balmain shiny leather BBox 20 bag (pictured, £1,325) is crafted from luxurious calfskin and features a Renaissance-style buckle and a gold-tone shoulder chain, making it the perfect luxury cross-body bag this season. Balmain, 69 South Audley Street, London W1K 2QZ, +44 (0)20 7491 8585, balmain.com

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● JAEGER ● COACH P.30 ● KURT GEIGER

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● GAP

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● HAMLEYS

● GANT ● JUICY COUTURE ● HUGO BOSS ● KATE SPADE ● LEVI’S ● REISS

SHOP TAX FREE APP This season’s ultimate travel companion is the new SHOP TAX FREE app. The app can direct users to their favourite brands and stores while they are shopping – and quickly calculate tax free savings. Once the shopping day is over, users can find the nearest Refund Office on the app and can track the progress of their refund in real time. Available in English, Chinese and Russian, the SHOP TAX FREE app is ready to download from the App Store and Google Play now.

London Underground Station

Department Store

Featured In This Issue

Cinnamon Soho

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Regent Street, Piccadilly & Jermyn Street ● HUGO BOSS

Cinnamon Soho Jinjuu

● REISS

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PENHALIGON’S ●

JAC+ JACK ●

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TOYWATCH ● ● CHESTER BARRIE

BURBERRY ●

DINOSAUR DESIGN ●

D YAR HAM

FRESCOBOL CARIOCA ● BRUMMELS OF LONDON ● ONCE ● MILANO EYEWEAR ● CONCIERGE

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ORLEBAR BROWN ●

REISS ●

’S DON YX WLEY C ’T E R ● RO E T TS LON ● AE M ● EM S NE ● JO L NSPE ’S ● SU U RCH USE ● CH O GLE H NEY ● ● EA CHE A ● L E W IN R T IN A ● TM LA MA NES ● R STO WAT E KS ● DA T IS ● W H IT CURT S TYR ES & ARLE H AW ● CH R EE T RK ST O F YO DUK E DSON & HU Y E L R V IE ROM ● HA L&B SSEL ON ● RU LON D F LD O DRO IN K S ● LLA H IT F IE L W ● & S X TO N JO N E ● PA ON TT & M A IS U L IN E LES OCKE O S CHAR ● CR ● AS E● E R IC K D W IL L ● RO FREY O R IS ● FL BB H N LO ● JO T Y● CKE T & KE ● ET ● HA IT C H STR E S H IL D V IL LE K B AT E ● SON S AC K ● P IN ER & ER FOST IS BARK E ● T R ● WS AK & CU H WES D SPE N D IS ● HA C AV E VERE S ’S JA M E ● DE T ST

UGG ● AUSTRALIA

NT STREET

Fo r t n

● LILLYWHITES

D IL LY

EY ●

C Z EC

P IC C A

OSPR

rcade

Maso

ess A

um &

P r in c

PICCADILLY CIRCUS Piccadilly Circus

R EGE

H AN

ALFR ED DU

YN S

TR EE

VENE

R R EG

L●

I●

ENT S

St James’s Square

CH A R

S T JA

TR EE

KE S

DU UTUM UA S C ● AQ IN K S UFFL IR E C N NGM EE ST ● LO D GR OND B D WA R ● ED OR OF OL YL EY K & ● TA D IT C H ET ● H IL g li n o ’sU RY S T R E B Qua R ASSE LL & NES RNBU ● T U C K E T T & JO O ● CR HAMP C ’S ● DU IC K E R L IS IL ● TR MA W ● E M ID O F F R EE T V ’S S T ● DA MES

R EE T

JER M

OS ● GR

LO W E

N H IL

BOGG

OD ● GWO K ● & L IN N E W OU RBROO H N JO FAV LEY ● ● SMED NS ● O CASE W ILT R E ● MO SL A D TO N ● ES JM W C O ’S ● F R A N T TA ● BERE

YN ST

DENMAN STREET

H BA UNTE RB O R● YA C O C K I E U R ● LC H H I NC I N E L’ S ● LL A PA A● R SH PIQ IS M OP ● IK U VIL WHIT ADR I ● O E T P E B R EQ A R D ● PE ● J E AU I N ● NS ● CAM P MAR Z IO ●O E XC OF L ELLENC OND O N ●E H AW C U R TE S & T H E S IS ● T IN G ●

SUPERDRY ●

● MR HARE

JER M

● ZARA ● MANGO

E RE

VIGO STR EE T

SELECTED STORES IN PRINCESS ARCADE: The Left Shoe Company

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

ES S

TRE

S AV

RUSSELL & ● BROMLEY

ZARA HOME ●

HN S

● MAPPIN & WEBB

GODIVA ● SWAROVSKI ●

E R JO

● TOMMY HILFIGER

● TIMBERLAND

● LANVIN MEN

ER J

LOW

OXFORDS ●

40 SAVILE ROW ●

. K ST

● BROOKS BROTHERS

R EE T

WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND ●

BEA

Blow Ltd.

LOW

L’OCCITANE ●

NT ST

CRABTREE & EVELYN ●

RICHARD JAMES ●

● OUR LEGACY

● LEVI’S

ACE

● JOSEPH

DENM AN PL

HACKETT ● J CREW ●

LE S II

STR E

● JAMES LOCK & CO ● BERRY BROS & RUDD

K IN G

ST R E

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Blow Dry Bar

Restaurant

Shopping Centre/Mall

Department Store

S H O P | 57

Brompton Road

P.5 8

X ●

●

RB ER RY

D AN ● ER SS TL RO CU G

AD RO

●

BA SIL

●

● ●

RO AD

●

EE T STR S IL BA

NC T EE

S LE AR CH

LT O

●

R BE AL & M A EU RI S O MU

O I M O AN IU M IN AR LL S O PE NE RI

●

Y E RR SP BE & UL KS M AR M ●

●

NI ●

A ● ANY

PON ● SKANDIUM

Place Of Interest

H IN D M

A RCH

ET T ST R E

● JOSEPH

London Underground Station

Hotel

Featured In This Issue

N RO AD

●

HA NS

O PAV IL LI

●

O PH

ER LL PE & Y N GB O RI RS ● DE N SA RT ’ S PE CH UT RU UR ● CH P OR A S H ● GA ND LAS ● PA N G O ● S U KO E S S N R PI SP S IS RE

SELECTED STORES IN HARRODS: Alexandra Llewellyn Atelier Des Ors Creed Hill & Friends Hublot Lladro LQD Vertu

●

L TA

UT RA

P.3 r o 1 ds

●

O OG

D OA

●

ST RE ET

TE TA

CA E AC PL AL EV H C

REET

PY ● RA S HE TE AT I A M C O SO AR AS

O PT

ACE

ELIER ST

L OT P CEL

RO CO

TI NA

RE ET

MONTP

N S ST EL IE R P

● KA T RE E ● LU RE L ST HAE ● LK I JO N M RAP IL E ● C BE LE ● G A CO N N E N TT ● SE NT ● A C I KO ● P O CES ● BA RS SO ● W RK CH RI ● T O AT C E R E D Z E ES T ● H M H IG ● M E MY ES N ● K A S KO H O F ● T E U TC SI M O P I L F SW ● D D H L I IE B IN O D ES GE ITZ R ● R U S A ER Z A SS EL KE SKY UT T LA R I R A EL ND L & ● BR FE OM AT KNIGHTSBRIDGE HE LE Y RS

LAN

R PL

ST ER LI M ON TP

●

ST RE ET

T R E VO

WAL K

●

TR EV OR

TREVOR PL

P EL IE R

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

KENSINGTON ROA D Bulgari Hotel

MONT

HARVEY NICHOLS ●

N RO AD

K EN SI NG TO

58 | LO N D O N G U I D E

YOKO One of London’s few entirely family-run luxury jewellers, Yoko has recently opened a new flagship store in Knightsbridge. An expert in pearls, the brand has been a driving force behind the contemporary resurgence of these gems. Its exquisite pieces include the stunning Violetta necklace (pictured, price on request), crafted from 18-carat white gold, 9.61-carat diamonds and more than 75 natural South Sea and radiant orchid freshwater pearls. It also offers more everyday items such as the Blossom bracelet, made from 18-carat white gold and featuring a single freshwater pearl and a cluster of 0.15-carat diamonds. Yoko’s beautiful designs are the perfect, elegant addition to any jewellery collection. Yoko, 8 Knightsbridge Green, London SW1X 7QL, +44 (0)20 3887 7237, yokolondon.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 57

Sloane Street North

Sloane Street South CADO GAN GATE

KNIGHTSBRIDGE

CADOGAN PLACE

● AMELIA WICKSTEAD

Harvey Nichols

● PINK ELL IS STREET

● GARRARD C A D O G A N G A R DEN

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

DOLCE & GABBANA ● JITROIS ● CESARE PACIOTTI ● OMEGA ●

ANNE FONTAINE ●

● MONCLER ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI ● ESCADA ● MISSONI P.28 ● LOUIS VUITTON

● SAINT LAURENT ● EMILIO PUCCI ● CHANEL ● ARIJE ● LA PERLA ● HERMÈS

CADOGA N PLACE

PETER JONES ●

KIN

G’ S

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Blow Dry Bar

London Underground Station

Place Of Interest

Colbe rt

SY MONS STR EE T

Sloane Square ROYAL COURT THEATRE

SLOANE SQUARE S LOA N E G A R D E N S

● VALENTINO

● PICKETT ● N PEAL

● HUGO BOSS

● DOLCE & GABBANA

BIONDA ● CASTANA

LOW ER SLOANE STREET

LORO PIANA ● GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ●

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ●

● BULGARI

● KABIRI BIMBA Y ● LOLA VIVIENNE ● WESTWOOD

SLOA NE TERRACE

● MAJE ● CASSANDRA GOAD

● CLUB MONACO ● DODO ● BOGGI ● HOSS INTROPIA ● LINKS OF LONDON ● TM LEWIN ● RIGBY & PELLER ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● WOLFORD ● ELLIOT RHODES ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● BCBGMAXAZRIA ● CATH KIDSTON ● ERIC BOMBARD ● WHISTLES ● COS

PRADA ●

GIORGIO ARMANI ●

TOD’S ●

● FENDI

AMOUAGE ●

BOTTEGA VENETA ●

● VERSACE

L O W N D E S S T.

SLOANE STREET

JIMMY CHOO ●

● MIU MIU

WILBR AHA M P L .

● CHLOÉ ● OLIVER PEOPLES ● JO MALONE

LINKS OF LONDON ●

A● HK ● US RS NO TE S ● A N T ROT P L E Y ● O E KO M L I ● TH E BRO L& EL

● ROGER VIVIER

GUCCI ●

MICHAEL KORS ● DIOR ●

Lowndes Square

k an

JOSEPH ●

MARNI ●

HACKETT ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● FRANK SMYTHSON ● CARTIER ● TIFFANY & CO ●

HARRIET ST.

● BERLUTI ● GINA

ROBERTO CAVALLI ●

REDVALENTINO ● DELPOZO ●

● ERMANNO SCERVINO

● TOM FORD

KIK

BONPOINT ●

● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Duc

HOGAN ● GRAFF ●

BOUTIQUE 1 ● P.30 ESCADA ●

● ALBERTA FERRETTI

SLOANE STREET

DOLCE & GABBANA ● BOODLES ●

● DRIJE

● PAULE KA ● BROWNS ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● ANYA HINDMARCH

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 59

Redchurch Street C A LV ● START

ERT A VENU

C A LV

ERT A V EN U

SH STR

EE T

Bar

Barber

S C L AT E

PHOTO: PAUL WINCH-FURNESS

Andina, 1 Redchurch Street, London E2 7DJ, +44 (0)20 7920 6499, andinalondon.com Restaurant

STRE

● URBAN INTERIOR

ANDINA

Shopping Centre/Mall

LABOUR & WAIT ●

Boxpark Shoreditch

Located in trendy Shoreditch, Andina offers guests an authentic taste of Peru. The main menu includes classics such as yellowfin tuna tartare served with seaweed and potato mash, rocoto chilli meringue and beetroot cress, and Pastel de Choclo, a savoury corn and fetacheese cake with Huancaína cheese and chilli sauce with avocado. Irresistible breakfast and brunch offerings include Pudin de Maiz, a delectable dish of light and fluffy Peruvian corn soufflé, smoked British bacon loin and poached Burford brown egg served with a coriander hollandaise sauce, making it the perfect place to start the day.

N U EL S

URCH

● BARBOUR AND PARLOUR

ROW

R EDCH

● RACHEL ENTWISTL E

R OA

Y ● TR A CE

R EE T

CLU B

P.24

EEN

ST R EE

HOL ST

TR EE

● BROWNS EAST LE LABO ●

AL GR

STRE

RE S

STR EE

W HI T BY

BETHN

F IE L D

TC L A

B RO ● THE GALLERY ● CLUB MONACO ● MURDOCK LONDON ● AESOP

EBOR

Dirty Burger

Pizza East S H O R E D I TC H H I GH

Owl & the Pussycat

NOBLE LEATHERWARE ●

NUDIE JEANS ● AIMÉ ● APC ●

● HOSTEM MODERN SOCIETY ● VERSUS VERSACE ● TIMOTHY EVEREST ●

EET

Albion

Boundary

Andina

● WHISTLES MEN SUNSPEL ● SWEATY BETTY ●

STR EE T

MAISON TROIS GARCONS ●

STR EE T

STR E

LIG ON IER STR

IGH

C LU

HH CARHARTT ●

MON

I TC

B O U N DA RY

S WA N

OR R EDCHU RCH

OLD NIC

R STREE T

60 | LO N D O N G U I D E

Ledbury Road

E&O

V CO L

INE

TER

R AC

E ART ESI AN ROA D ● PENELOPE CHILVERS

ILLE

ANYA HINDMARCH ● MR HARE ●

● JW BEETON ● LE CREUSET ● MELISSA ODABASH

R OA D

WEST

● WOLF & BADGER EMMA HOPE ● ● ROBIN MARTIN ANTIQUES MARIE-CHANTAL CHILDREN ● ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● ORLEBAR BROWN IRIS ● ● REISS JOSEPH ● MELT ● ● BODAS ASHLEY STORES ● ASSYA LONDON ● ● DAVID CLULOW JEEVES ●

NB IG

Beach Blanket Babylon

FARA BABY ● FARA KIDS ●

● PETIT AIME

BELLA FREUD Bella Freud is one of London’s coolest home-grown designers, and among the city’s fashion set her eponymous label has been a go-to for statement knitwear for years. For spring/summer 2018 the designer’s collection still includes signature jumpers featuring her statement graphic designs, and alongside them are more sophisticated dresses and tailoring. The Isaac velvet jacket in pale pink (pictured, £790) is one of the collection’s standout pieces, adding a contemporary tailored touch to elegant eveningwear. Bella Freud, 49 Chiltern Street, London W1U 6LX, +44 (0)20 7935 0777, bellafreud.com

Global Blue Retailer

NE GR

RY RO

BOUR

OV E

LEDBU

T ES

R OU

OA D

Ottolenghi

HAM R

ROA D

● I LOVE GORGEOUS

DA L E

● ECONE

RY R O

COV

LO N S

● MATCHES

N EE D

LEDBU

TWENTY8TWELVE ● MATCHES ● DIANE VON FURSTENBERG ● THE VILLAGE BICYCLE ● CARAMEL ● EWS EM LYON CHOY LONDON ● V IL L CO L PETIT BATEAU ●

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Restaurant

W TO

VIL

S H O P | 61

Westbourne Grove & Denbigh Road

VIN CO L

ART ESI AN ROA D TEMP

N EE D

MON

HAM R

SOO

OA D

N●

R OA D

Show

ALL M

R OA

Dry

WALL ● LANNA ●

Featured In This Issue

o SHOP GE N er & C IV IN G G ra n g L IV IN G & GD C A F E L O U N A E R Y 'S ● M A B O U T IQ U ● PET TA G E NOS ● N A E R IC A N V IN ● AM RA O ● BR ODHOUSE S E ● WO ST LE ● AT U R A B AV IL ● T O JE S T IC F IL ● S O DA ● M A T YQ U E CH & RY E ● L L ● D IP P O IN T S COT A& SH JE W E B N L ● BO ● SMAL A P K L E IN E RY ● P IP H E ID I GALL AD ORE ● L AC Y RY R O IN M O T● MART LEDBU IE R L O D IE P CL AU

7 FOR

ILLE

One of London’s most popular cafés, Daylesford on Notting Hill’s Westbourne Grove is the perfect place to relax and recharge during a busy day in west London. With a comprehensive menu covering everything from breakfast to supper, and a farm shop stocked with artisan cheeses and breads as well as organic fruit and fresh vegetables grown in its own market garden, it is a must-visit for foodies exploring the city. Daylesford, 208-212 Westbourne Grove, London W11 2RH, +44 (0)20 7313 8050, daylesford.com

OV E

NE GR

BOUR

WEST

RY RO ● LEDBU SAN D E ● TA IR & VO L A● Z A D IG B A Y L O L ● B IM LOF T LS ● & W IL A U B IN JI G S AW ● ● M A JE NS ITE S I● TIO OP WH B R IS S IER ES Y & X RIA NN ES ● ● AN AV N M A & VA O O T O OOPL THE K Y HALL ● ● L EO M E S N AC E S C D IN N ● HE MO IR D G 202 ● ● ● T LU B P TO L A N ROW N ● C OM ET BAR B ORLE ● C ELM sford D ●H D a y le ● OA HSON EN SMY T HR ES ● ●S IG S PER JA M E RA ● NB A XMA DE END M NNET T ● WEEK BE K Y● L S ● ERLE CHUC D● A N K IN ● PH JO S E ROA D

DA L E

LO N S

COV

DAYLESFORD

W TO

VIL

N UR

Blow Dry Bar

Place Of Interest

EWS

V IL L CO L

ACE RR E TE

The Ledbury

62 | LO N D O N G U I D E

DAY TRIP WESTFIELD LONDON With two floors and hundreds of stores, Westfield London is the perfect place to spend a day. Head to The Village where you’ll find the crème de la crème of international luxury brands, from Burberry and Prada to Omega and Gucci. Westfield London, Ariel Way, London W12 7SL, +44 (0)20 3371 2300, uk.westfield.com

OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-10pm Sunday: 12am-6pm

DON’T MISS… SERVICES

tax refunds • On-site parking • Valet shopping • Hands-free • Same-day hotel delivery.

HOW TO GET THERE By London Underground There are four Underground stations within walking distance of Westfield London: Shepherd’s Bush and White City on the Central line, and Wood Lane and Shepherd’s Bush Market on the Hammersmith & City and Circle lines.

By taxi A taxi from central London takes 10 minutes. Shopping Centre

London Underground Station

Westﬁeld London SHEPHERD’S BUSH STATION

PHOTO: G-FONNE PHOTOGRAPHY

PADDINGTON STATION

SHOP TAX FREE APP

It’s your world. Shop Tax Free with confidence. The free SHOP TAX FREE app makes tax refunds easier than ever. New features now added: • • • •

Live refund tracking Refund Calculator Store locator Tax rates and rules

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SHOP TAX FREE

64 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP BICESTER VILLAGE Find your fabulous at Bicester Village, with more than 130 boutiques including Temperley London, The White Company, Marni and dunhill, savings of up to 60% and instant tax refunds. Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6WD, +44 (0)1869 366266, bicestervillage.com

HOW TO GET THERE By car Bicester Village is just 60 minutes from London by car. Exit the M40 motorway at Junction 9 and follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester. From Bicester the route is clearly signposted. Look for Bicester Village Outlet Centre. Parking is always free.

By train Travel from London Marylebone direct to Bicester Village Station in as little as 46 minutes, with two services an hour. Travel from Birmingham Moor Street or Birmingham Snow Hill to Bicester North, where a shuttle bus will take you to the Village.

By Shopping Express The Shopping Express coach service runs direct from central London to Bicester Village. Choose from two routes that operate daily* return services, collecting from selected London hotels. • Adult return £28 • child return £20 (ages 5-12). *excludes 25 December Train Station

Outlet Village

BICESTER NORTH BICESTER VILLAGE STATION Bicester Village

A41

M40

A41

M1 M40

M25 M40

LONDON

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

Refund Office Details

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form.

London Heathrow Terminal 1 London Heathrow Terminal 2 London Heathrow Terminal 3 London Heathrow Terminal 4 London Heathrow Terminal 5

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.. Spend a minimum of £30 and save up to 19% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

London Gatwick North Terminal London Gatwick South Terminal International Currency Exchange, 339 Oxford Street, London W1C 2JB International Currency Exchange, Westfield London, Ariel Way, London W12 7GF No 1 Currency, City of London Information Centre, St Paul’s Churchyard, London EC4M 8BX Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL

68 71

TRANSLATIONS

中文翻译无论是成名已久的时尚传奇还是年纪尚轻的创意天才，英国顶尖时尚设计师们散发着独特的光芒，在世界各地备受推崇，他们的盛名没有分毫衰减的迹象。Ruairidh Pritchard报道从60年代的摩登派和摇滚族，到70年代的朋克摇滚、80年代的新浪漫主义、90年代的英伦摇上图 (从上至下): Anya Hindmarch; Paul Smith 2018春夏系列

38: COOL BRITANNIA 酷不列颠尼亚

滚，再到21世纪初的波希米亚风潮和独立垃圾摇滚，几十年以来英国文化素以一个“ 酷 ”字而著称。这一点在英国的时尚界最明显不过了，无论是知名品牌还是年轻设计师都不例外。在时尚界，90年代的流行标语 “ 酷不列颠尼亚” 放到现在同样恰如其分。在 70年代风靡伦敦的朋克浪潮之中，维维安 •韦斯特伍德（Vivienne Westwood）开始设计服装。1971年，她在国王路上开设了自己的第一家商店 Let it Rock（后来被更名为Sex，如今名为Worlds End），不久之后便开始为性手枪乐队（Sex Pistols）的成员提供服装。这位设计师 “绝不低头”的朋克态度直接影响了整个行业，一个英伦时尚的全新时代由此开始。她在国际时尚界风生水起，至今威名不减分毫。 globalblue.cn

一如既往地，韦斯特伍德在 2018年春夏季的秀场上呈现了一个充满政治意味的系列。白色衬衫上潦草地写着关于浪费与消费主义的宣言，同场展示的 T恤则饰有关于拯救雨林的标语。磨边针织衫上印着风格激进的涂鸦，还有一款饰有一个硕大的黑色脚印 — —意指世界各地不断增长的碳足迹。女式衬衫、男士衬衫和长裤上饰有以扑克牌为灵感的新季印花，此外设计师标志性的结构连衣裙和充满建筑美感的正装作品同样引人注目。展示系列作品的不仅有一群高挑挺拔的模特，还有一班令观众大呼过瘾的杂技演员，他们一边表演一边走完了 T台。保罗•史密斯（Paul Smith）是另一位于70年代起家的设计传奇。在设计那些备受赞誉的作品过程中，他对于英国亚文化和音乐运动的饱满热情发挥了重要作用。多年以来，史密斯钟爱的音乐对他影响深远，尤其是他儿时奉作偶像、后来成为好友与顾客的吉米 • 佩奇（ Jimmy Page）和大卫• 鲍伊（David Bowie）的作品。 2018年春夏季，史密斯从他的青春时代挖掘灵感，重新演绎那些曾定义了昔日“北方灵魂”音乐和舞蹈运动、并对他标志性的植物印花带来启发的飘逸廓形与鲜艳印花。男士和女士西装（该品牌赖以成名的衣款）饰有平驳领，衣领拨折点偏低，肩部平阔方正，致敬了这位设计师 80年代的部分作品。新季度夏威夷印花衬衫和沙滩风格的条纹手袋则为这一系列增添了一抹假日风情。二十多年以来，维多利亚•贝克汉姆 ( Victoria Beckham）一直是世界上知名度最高的女性之一。作为流行团体辣妹合唱团（Spice Girls）的五位成员之一，她曾对一代年轻女孩的着装风格产生过深刻影响。2008年，维多利亚进一步提升了她作为时尚传奇的地位，推出了同名时装品牌，并于2011年英国时尚大奖中荣膺年度最佳品牌奖。如今，她已是英国最激动人心、最受推崇的时尚设计师之一。本季作品是她迄今为止收获赞誉最多的系列之一，传统的女性元素 — — 雪纺绸和羊毛纱等轻盈面料 — — 与取材于技术教科书的工装风格纹形成了鲜明反差。醒目的色彩、培乐多彩泥一般的靓丽基调和设计师所说的 “淡雅霓虹色”让这些杰出的作品显得分外抢镜。“这个系列精致但并不脆弱，”维多利亚如是评论道。另外一个值得称赞的名字是安雅 • 希德玛芝 ( Anya Hindmarch），她的标志性手袋远不止是一般的配饰而已。希德玛芝于80年代建立了她的手袋帝国，由此创造了巨大的辉煌；她是首位被列入伦敦时装周日程的配饰设计师，许多全

世界最上镜的女性都曾选择她的手袋作为搭配；她的名人粉丝包括蕾哈娜（Rihanna）、安吉丽娜• 朱莉（Angelina Jolie）和剑桥公爵夫人。 2018年春夏季，这位设计师将注意力转向了日常装束。她用 “英伦、诙谐、个性化”来描述自己的审美风格，新系列的灵感则源自英国城郊文化；70年代英国人家中常见的居家便服和墙纸给系列作品的设计与用料带来了启发。主打款式包括金属质感的手拿包、外形狭长的托特包和手袋饰物，特别引人注目的是超大尺寸卡通风手袋饰物，以柔软的纳帕革制作而成。无论是维维安 •韦斯特伍德的朋克风装束，保罗•史密斯的惊艳款式，维多利亚•贝克汉姆极具女性气质的系列作品，还是安雅 • 希德玛芝异乎寻常的配饰，英国顶尖设计师们依然思虑深远、创意卓绝，最重要的是 — — 依然“ 酷 ”字当先。愿他们的作品不朽常青。

65: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 畅购全球，尊享退税当您在全球顶级购物区中的30万多家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程： 1. 消费购物无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点领取您的退税款。联系方式： taxfree@ globalblue. com +421 232 111 111 最低消费30英镑，即可节约高达19%的商品购买价。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退税手续费。 globalblue.cn | globalblue.ru

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 38: COOL BRITANNIA «КРУТАЯ БРИТАНИЯ» Ведущие британские модельеры, от знаменитых до начинающих, почитаемы во всем мире, благодаря своей уникальной экстравагантности, и их популярность только растет, – говорит Руайрид Притчард Британская культура распространяется по миру не одно десятилетие подряд: от модов и рокеров 1960-х, панков 70-х и романтиков 80-х до брит-попа 90-х и инди-гранджа 2000-х. Модная индустрия не осталась в стороне, подарив миру огромное число талантливых дизайнеров. А появившийся в 90-х термин Cool Britannia («крутая Британия») остается столь же актуальным и в наши дни. Вивьен Вествуд занялась дизайном одежды в разгар панк-культуры 70-х годов. Первый магазин дизайнера Let it Rock (позже переименованный в Sex и сегодня известный под названием Worlds End) открылся на King’s Road в 1971 году, а вскоре после этого появились и первые звездные клиенты в лице участников группы Sex Pistols. Так началась эра британской моды, напрямую вдохновленной музыкальными увлечениями модельера. Она получила широкую популярность по всему миру, и не утратила ее до сих пор. В коллекции Вествуд весна-лето 2018, как и всегда, было много политики. Наряду с белыми рубашками с лозунгами о расточительстве и консюмеризме были продемонстрированы футболки, призывающие к защите тропических лесов. Трикотажные изделия с грубой отделкой украшены граффити, на одном из которых изображен черный отпечаток ноги – символ нарастающего объема выбросов CO2 в атмосферу. На показе можно было заметить структурные платья и деловые образы, ставшие визитной карточкой дизайнера, а также блузы, рубашки и брюки, украшенные

В коллекции Вивьен Вествуд весна-лето 2018, как и всегда, было много политики принтами с изображением игральных карт. На подиум вышла смешанная группа из статных моделей и артистов-трюкачей, исполняющих акробатические номера. Пол Смит – еще один дизайнер, пришедший в индустрию в 1970-х годах. Страсть к британским субкультурам и музыкальным движениям сыграла немаловажную роль в его творчестве. На протяжении многих лет Смит вдохновлялся музыкой своих юношеских кумиров, а позже друзей и клиентов, – Джимми Пейджа и Девида Боуи. Для сезона весна-лето 2018 Смит черпает вдохновение из своей молодости, переосмысливая свободные силуэты и яркие принты, ассоциирующиеся с музыкальным направлением Северный соул. Деловые образы для мужчин и женщин включают прямоугольные лацканы, заниженные линии среза и квадратные плечи, отсылая к коллекциям дизайнера в 1980-х годах. Слева направо: Vivienne Westwood; Anya Hindmarch, оба фото – сезон весна-лето 2018

Гавайские рубашки и полосатые пляжные сумки добавляют коллекции курортный оттенок. Виктория Бекхэм, участница некогда популярной группы «Spice Girls», уже более двух десятилетий остается одной из самых известных женщин в мире, а ее образ оказал сильное влияние на целое поколение молодежи. В 2008 году Бекхэм обрела еще больший успех, запустив одноименный бренд одежды, который в 2011 году получил награду British Fashion Award в категории «Лучший дизайнерский бренд». Сегодня она входит в число наиболее интересных и уважаемых модельеров страны. Коллекция этого сезона выдалась особенно успешной, благодаря сочетанию традиционных женственных элементов, а именно: легких тканей, таких как шифон и шерстяная вуаль с узором в клетку, срисованным с технической литературы. Яркие цвета, пластилиновые оттенки и «неоновая пастель» заметно выделяют коллекцию, которая, по словам Бэкхем, «деликатная, но не хрупкая». Еще одно имя, которое стоит упомянуть, – это Аня Хиндмарч, чьи фирменные сумки выходят за рамки понятия аксессуар. Хиндмарч основала свою империю сумок в 1980-х, и с тех пор ее популярность непрерывно растет. Она была первым дизайнером аксессуаров, представленным на сезонных показах Лондонской недели моды, а ее сумки можно было заметить у целого ряда знаменитостей, включая Рианну, Анджелину Джоли и герцогиню Кембриджскую. В сезоне весна-лето 2018 модельер сосредоточила свое внимание на повседневных вещах. Свою эстетику она называет «британской, юмористической и индивидуализированной», а источником вдохновения для последней коллекции стала британская провинциальная культура. На создание образов и выбор материалов значительное влияние оказали домашние халаты и комнатные обои, которые были популярны в британских домах в 70-е годы. Ключевые стили включают клатчи металлических оттенков, высокие тоуты и аксессуары для сумок. Особенно выделяются крупные шармы из мягкой замши в форме мультипликационных образов. Сверху: Victoria Beckham весна-лето 2018

‫‪71‬‬

‫باهرا ً‪ .‬كانت مص ّممة األكسسوارات األوىل التي تحظى مبوعد محدّد‬ ‫لعرض أكسسواراتها يف أسبوع لندن للموضة وقد حملت حقائبها‬ ‫أشهر النساء مثل ‪ Rihanna‬و‪ Angelina Jolie‬ودوقة‬ ‫كامربيدج‪.‬‬ ‫لربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ ،2018‬ح ّولت املص ّممة اهتاممها إىل التصاميم العمليّة‪.‬‬ ‫تصف أسلوبها بـ ‪:‬ال”يطاين والفكاهي والشخيص” وتستوحي هذه‬ ‫املجموعة من الثفاقة ال”يطانيّة الفرعيّة‪ .‬التصاميم واملواد مستوحاة‬ ‫من مالبس النوم الطويلة وأوراق الجدران يف منازل األُرس ال”يطانيّة يف‬ ‫السبعينات‪ .‬من أه ّم التصاميم حقائب صغرية مل ّاعة وحقائب طويلة‬ ‫وأكسسوارات للحقائب وأبرزها جالب ح ّظ كبري مبطّن يحمل صورة‬ ‫شخصيّة كرتونيّة مصنوع من الجلد الناعم‪.‬‬ ‫بالنظر إىل ابتكارات ‪ Vivienne Westwood‬املتأث ّرة بثقافة‬ ‫البانك أو إىل أسلوب ‪ Paul Smith‬امللفت أو إىل مجموعات‬ ‫‪ Victoria Beckham‬القويّة األنثويّة أو إىل أكسسوارات ‪Anya‬‬ ‫‪ Hindmarch‬املبتكرة‪ ،‬نالحظ أ ّن مص ّميي األزياء الالمعني يف‬ ‫بريطانيا ما زالوا مفكّرين وخالقني واأله ّم أنّهم “كول””‪ .‬فلتستم ّر‬ ‫مسرية عملهم إىل األبد‪.‬‬

‫‪WHEN YOU SHOP THE‬‬ ‫‪WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE: 65‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل‪،‬‬ ‫تس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع‬ ‫الرضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكث من ‪300,000‬‬

‫متجر يف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العامل‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ال تنض ّم إىل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك إال‬ ‫الرضيبة من خالل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو ‪Global Blue‬‬ ‫وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫أينام تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عىل طلب اسرتداد الرضيبة ّ‬ ‫بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصاالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫يف طريق العودة إىل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجامرك عند نقطة املغادرة‬ ‫لتتم املصادقة عىل إيصاالتك قبل قبض االسرتداد من أحد مكاتب‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫االسرتداد ّ‬ ‫لالتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪111 111 232 +421‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدىن قدره ‪ £30‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 19%‬من مثن مشرتياتك‪.‬‬

‫يشمل مبلغ االسرتداد النهايئ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الرضيبة عىل‬ ‫القيمة املضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬يف بعض املطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض رسم خدمة‬ ‫نقدي عىل كل طلب اسرتداد ضيبة يف حال رغبت بالحصول عىل‬ ‫اسرتداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫‪От эпатажных образов Vivienne Westwood‬‬ ‫‪и элегантных коллекций Paul Smith до‬‬ ‫‪женственных нарядов Victoria Beckham и‬‬ ‫‪эксцентричных аксессуаров Anya Hindmarch‬‬ ‫‪– ведущие британские дизайнеры не теряют‬‬ ‫‪чуткости, оригинальности и, конечно, стиля.‬‬ ‫‪А значит их работа будет продолжаться еще‬‬ ‫‪долгие годы.‬‬

‫‪65: WHEN YOU SHOP THE‬‬ ‫‪WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE‬‬ ‫‪СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ‬‬ ‫‪ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ,‬‬ ‫‪СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С‬‬ ‫‪TAX FREE‬‬

‫‪Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят‬‬ ‫‪вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в‬‬ ‫‪более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в‬‬ ‫‪самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.‬‬ ‫‪Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26‬‬ ‫‪миллионам путешественников, совершающих‬‬ ‫?‪покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год‬‬ ‫‪Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите‬‬ ‫‪о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным‬‬ ‫‪инструкциям.‬‬ ‫‪1. В магазине‬‬ ‫‪Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите‬‬ ‫‪Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.‬‬ ‫‪2. При выезде‬‬ ‫‪Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления,‬‬ ‫‪пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить‬‬ ‫‪ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из‬‬ ‫‪наших офисов.‬‬ ‫‪Контакты:‬‬ ‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫‪Потратьте минимум 30 £ и сэкономьте до‬‬ ‫‪19% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста,‬‬ ‫‪примите к сведению, что конечная сумма‬‬ ‫‪возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус‬‬ ‫‪административная комиссия. В некоторых‬‬ ‫‪аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается‬‬ ‫‪комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪72‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية‬

‫‪COOL BRITANNIA: 38‬‬ ‫بريطانيا الـ ‪COOL‬‬

‫ألبرز مصم ّمي األزياء يف بريطانيا‪ ،‬الالمعني والصاعدين‬ ‫بريق فريدٌ من نوعه وقدرة عىل لفت أنظار العامل‬ ‫منهم‪ٌ ،‬‬ ‫أي إشارة إىل تزعزع سمعتهم‬ ‫أجمع‪ .‬وما من ّ‬ ‫برأي ‪Ruairidh Pritchard‬‬ ‫اتّسمت الثقافة الربيطانيّة باألسلوب الـ “كول” ‪ cool‬لعقو ٍد طويلة‪،‬‬ ‫من ثقافة الود والروك يف الستّينات والبانك روك يف السبعينات إىل‬ ‫النيو رومانتكس يف الثامنينات والربيت بوب يف التسعينات واألناقة‬ ‫البوهيميّة واإلندي غرانج يف األلفني‪ .‬وخري دليلٍ عىل ذلك هو األزياء‬ ‫الربيطانيّة البتكرة من قبل عالمات تجاريّة عريقة ومص ّممني صاعدين‬ ‫عىل ح ّد سواء‪ .‬ويف مجال األزياء‪ ،‬ينطبق اليوم مصطلح بريطانيا الـ‬ ‫“كول” كام كان سائدا ً يف التسعينات‪.‬‬ ‫بدأت ‪ Vivienne Westwood‬تصميم الالبس يف منتصف حركة‬ ‫البانك التي انبثقت يف لندن السبعينات‪ .‬افتتحت أ ّول متج ٍر لها ‪Let it‬‬ ‫‪( Rock‬الذي ُس ّمي يف ما بعد ‪ Sex‬ويُعرف اليوم بـ ‪)World End‬‬ ‫يف شارع ‪ King’s Road‬سنة ‪ 1971‬وما لبثت أن رشعت بتصميم‬ ‫مالبس أعضاء فرقة ‪ .Sex Pistols‬وبذلك انطلقت حقبة جديدة‬ ‫من األزياء الربيطانيّة الستوحاة بشكلٍ مبارش من أسلوب البانك الذي‬ ‫تعتمده الص ّممة من دون تردّد‪ .‬فحقّقت شهرة عاليّة ال تزال تحتفظ‬ ‫بها حتّى اليوم‪.‬‬ ‫يف عرض أزيائها لربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ ،2018‬قدّمت ‪ Westwood‬مجموعة‬ ‫مشحونة بالسياسة إىل ح ّد كبري‪ .‬اتّسمت بقمصان بيضاء مكس ّوة‬ ‫بعبارات كُتبت عىل عجالة عن النفايات واالستهالكيّة باإلضافة إىل‬ ‫تيرشتس مزركشة بشعارات تدعو للحفاظ عىل الغابات الطريّة‪ .‬أ ّما‬ ‫الالبس الحبوكة الفتوحة الحاشية‪ ،‬ف ُرسم عليها استنسل غرافيتي‬ ‫وشملت إحدى التصاميم أثر قدم سوداء كبرية وذلك كإشارة إىل‬ ‫انبعاثات الكربون التزايدة حول العامل‪.‬‬ ‫من ابتكارات الص ّممة التي برزت يف خالل العرض‪ ،‬فساتني وقطع ذات‬ ‫بُنية مدروسة‪ ،‬باإلضافة إىل بلوزات وقمصان ورساويل مط ّعمة ٍ‬ ‫بنقش‬ ‫جديد هذا الوسم مستوحى من ور” اللّعب‪ .‬وقد قدّمت العرض‬ ‫مجموعة م“تلطة من العارضات المشوقات والبهلوانيني اللفتني‪.‬‬ ‫من ر ّواد التصميم الذين انطلقوا يف السبعينات‪Paul Smith ،‬‬ ‫الذي كان لشغفه بالثقافات الفرعيّة والوسيقى الربيطانيّة دور مه ّم‬ ‫يف تصاميمه الشهرية‪ .‬وسنة تل َو أخرى‪ ،‬تأث ّر ‪ Smith‬أك’ فأك’ بحبّه‬ ‫وب“اصة موسيقى النجمني اللّذين أحبّهام يف مراهقته‬ ‫للموسيقى‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وأصبحا رفيقيه وزبونيه يف ما بعد وهام ‪ Jimmy Page‬و‪David‬‬ ‫‪.Bowie‬‬ ‫لربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ ،2018‬استوحي ‪ Smith‬من شبابه مستذكرا ً‬ ‫التصاميم الفضفاضة والنقوش الحيويّة التي ساهمت يف صقل حركة‬ ‫‪ Northern Soul‬للموسيقى والرقص يف شبابه وألهمت نقوشه‬ ‫خاص بالقطع الص ّممة بحسب الطلب‬ ‫الزهريّة‪ .‬تشتهر العالمة بشكلٍ ّ‬ ‫للرجال والنساء وتتّسم بطيّات صدر منقوشة وأكتاف مربّعة‪ ،‬عىل‬ ‫غرار بعض ابتكارات الص ّمم يف الثامنينيات‪ .‬وبفضل قمصان بنقش‬ ‫‪ Hawaii‬وحقائب شبيهة بحقائب البحر القلّمة‪ ،‬توحي الجموعة‬ ‫يف األعىل (من اليسار)‪ ،Victoria Beckham، Anya Hindmarch :‬كالهام ربيع‪/‬صيف ‪”2018‬‬

‫مجموعة ‪Hindmarch‬‬

‫مستوحاة من الثفاقة الربيطان ّية‬ ‫الفرع ّية‬

‫باالسرتخاء‪.‬‬ ‫انقىض أك’ من عقدين‪ ،‬وما زالت ‪ Victoria Beckham‬إحدى‬ ‫أشهر النساء يف العامل‪ .‬يُعزى ذلك قليالً إىل فرقة موسيقى البوب‬ ‫‪ Spice Girls‬وقد كان لـ ‪ Beckham‬أُث ٌر كبري عىل أسلوب جيل‬ ‫من الشابّات‪ .‬ويف العام ‪ ،2008‬قامت ‪ Beckham‬بتعزيز موقعها‬ ‫م“تصة باألزياء‬ ‫كرمز للموضة من خالل إطال” عالمة تحمل إسمها ّ‬ ‫وحازت سنة ‪ 2011‬جائزة أفضل عالمة تجاريّة للعام من ‪British‬‬ ‫‪ Fashion Award‬وهي اليوم من أبرز وأرقى مص ّممي األزياء يف‬ ‫البالد‪.‬‬ ‫تشكّل مجموعتها لهذا الوسم‪ ،‬إحدى أشهر ابتكاراتها حتّى يومنا هذا‪،‬‬ ‫إذ تضع جنباً إىل جنب عنارص أنثويّة تقليديّة – عىل سبيل أقمشة‬ ‫خفيفة كالشيفون والـ ‪ voile‬الصويف – مربّعات مستوحاة من مالبس‬ ‫العمل‪ .‬تنبض القطع الميّزة بألوان ناصعة وأخرى حيويّة وألوان تس ّميها‬ ‫الص ّممة “مش ّعة”‪ .‬تقول ‪ Beckham‬يف هذا الصدد‪“ :‬الجموعة‬ ‫ناعمة لكن غري هشّ ة‪”.‬‬ ‫من األسامء الجديرة بالذكر أيضاً‪ Anya Hindmarch ،‬التي تبتكر‬ ‫حقائب يد أك’ من مج ّرد أكسسوارات‪ .‬أٍّ ّسست ‪Hindmarch‬‬ ‫ال“اصة بها يف الثامنينات وشهدت مذّاك نجاحاً‬ ‫امرباطوريّة الحقائب ّ‬

POSTCARD

MACKINTOSH Founded in the early 19th century, Mackintosh is one of the UK’s oldest luxury brands for outerwear. It is named after Scottish inventor and chemist Charles Macintosh (the k was a later addition) who developed a rubberised, waterproof fabric in 1823. Coats made of this material subsequently became known as macs. The brand is still based in Scotland, where it combines traditional techniques with a modern-day vision, continuing to produce waterproof coats that offer protection in almost all weather conditions. Recently Mackintosh has collaborated with some of Europe’s biggest stores and designers, including Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Liberty. It opened its first store in Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 65

London’s Mayfair district in 2011. For spring/ summer 2018, Mackintosh has collaborated with Maison Margiela to offer designs with a contemporary twist on the time-honoured raincoat. There are two limited-edition menswear pieces; a white lab coat-inspired mac and a slate grey trench coat. The collaboration also features womenswear styles that take inspiration from the Mackintosh archives. rre Mackintosh, 19 Conduit Street, London W1S 2BH, +44 (0)20 7493 4667, mackintosh.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 54

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A GENTLEMAN FINDS IRONY IN EVERYTHING. - Rule 23 -

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