SHOP London Style AW17

LONDON | 伦敦 | ЛОНДОН |

LONDON Style Edition Autumn/Winter 2017/18

DISCOVER LONDON: our insiders’ guide to the must-visit boutiques and top shopping streets of the British capital

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Discover the best of this eclectic, bustling capital with SHOP. Meet the British designers elevating flat shoes to new heights on page 36 and read about the city’s most exciting new fragrances on page 42 – plus much more.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14% when shopping in the UK. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in London. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Joanna McGinn Joanna McGinn travelled the world reporting on city hotspots and global culture for trend forecasting website WGSN before writing for publications such as BA Highlife, MyDaily.co.uk and Company magazine. She is also an MA lecturer at Central Saint Martins and the Instituto Marangoni in London. globalblue.com

Grace Bird Grace Bird is SHOP’s assistant picture editor and her role also involves taking photographs for the print and online editions.

Grace loves all kinds of art and craft, and can often be found doing origami or knitting in her bonsai garden. She also enjoys travelling, which inspires her unique style.

ILLUSTRATION: NATHALIE LEES; PHOTO: (RIGHT) DIONNE HÉLÈNE

Nathalie Lees London-based Nathalie Lees created this season’s cover for SHOP London Style. As a London local, Nathalie was the perfect choice of illustrator for this cover, which shows a beautiful boutique in her signature bright, colourful style. Her other clients include the BBC, the New York Times and time-honoured British retailer Marks & Spencer.

Discover SHOP London and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi

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News editor Ginger Rose Clark

Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

UK managing director Gordon Clark Sales manager – head of key accounts Peter Blake Sales manager – head of accounts Sarah Bubien UK marketing sales manager Kimberly Urbaniak Marketing account manager Patrick Prior Head of acquiring Massi Maier Global key account managers Richard Harvey, Nikhita Hyett Key account managers Leonie Adams, Ramesh Juneja, Jerry Junkere, Victoria Taylor Account managers Dianeth Cedeno-Gonzalez, Enda Griffin, Holly Kippin, Marisa Sanchez, Dezelle Villanueva

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur

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Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistant Inga Abramian Marketing intern Joanna Dodge

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Cover illustrator Nathalie Lees Contributor Joanna McGinn Acting production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion and lifestyle writer Rebecca Rhys-Evans

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Hayley Moseley Artworking assistants Shirley Lau, Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Acting online managing editor Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener Human resources and office assistant Anjali Kapoor

Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy

Digital production assistant Linda Hau Production assistant Chris Bigg Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing manager Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

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Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2017 Global Blue

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CONTENTS PRODUCTS

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14 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from London this season 16 My Favourites Womenswear designer Rejina Pyo reveals her top tips for autumn/winter 2017/18 18 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 22 Street Style Our pick of the best dressed at London Fashion Week

NEWS

FEATURES 36 The Rise Of The Flat Comfortable and practical, yet as glamorous as heels, flats are reaching new heights of style, as Sally McIlhone discovers 42 The Future Of Fragrance London’s creative perfumers are taking niche to the next level. Joanna McGinn highlights some of the best

EXPERIENCE 48 Table Talk A Sunday roast is a British classic, says Hannah Lewis

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GUIDE 53 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of London, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights

ESSENTIALS 70 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS 71 中文翻译 76 Русский Перевод 88

POSTCARD 90 SHOP writes home about Pall Mall Barbers

Above (from top): Liberty’s new menswear department; a selection of dishes from Sparrow

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) RYOTY

25 Shop Window One store not to be missed in London 26 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

YOU CAN’T BEAT INFINITY ACTIVE. A suit for the man who knows no limits.

Egyptian cotton shirts. Italian wool suits. Classic casualwear.

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OXFORD STREET 388 Oxford Street W1C 1JT

JERMYN STREET 103–108 Jermyn Street SW1Y 6EQ

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REGENT STREET 126 Regent Street W1B 5SD

SEA OF GOLD The aptly named Mer d’Or (gold sea) gold and silver mules by British footwear designer Camilla Elphick tick all the boxes this season. Metallics look great with an all-black outfit and gold also works particularly well with warm hues such as red or orange. These shoes are certainly guaranteed to turn heads. Beaded fish lend a quirky touch, without going over the top. The inspiration for Feast for Feet, the designer’s autumn/winter 2017/18 collection, comes from the surrealist work of Salvador Dalí and features velvet, Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 70

reds, pinks and purples with funky motifs such as avocados, cats and kale. Camilla Elphick founded her eponymous brand in 2014 after studying at Parsons in New York and Cordwainers in London, two of the most prestigious fashion colleges in the world. The British Fashion Council’s Future British programme, launched in 2016, welcomed Elphick as one of its first alumni. fm Camilla Elphick Mer d’Or shoes, £525, Goat, 4 Conduit Street, London W1S 2DJ, +44 (0)20 7493 9323, camillaelphick.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 61

PHOTO: DARREN BURGESS

CH ECK O UT

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MY FAVOURITES: REJINA PYO Womenswear designer Rejina Pyo is known for her graphic, playful, effortlessly elegant aesthetic. Having completed an MA in fashion design at Central Saint Martins in 2011, she won the prestigious Han Nefkens Fashion Award before establishing her eponymous label in 2014. Her relaxed silhouettes in quirky, original colour combinations make for confident, feminine outfits – and she is attracting a growing fashion following. The designer tells Fani Mari about some of her favourite items for autumn/winter 2017/18 1. ‘When visiting London, I would definitely recommend buying a Smythson notebook with embossed initials’

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Smythson Panama notebook, £45, Smythson, 40 New Bond Street, London W1S 2DE, +44 (0)20 3535 8009, smythson.com

3. ‘I wear jeans all the time. My Emily jeans with hand-carved horn button detailing are so special, but perfectly versatile for every day’ Rejina Pyo Emily jeans, £325, Browns, 24-27 South Molton Street, London W1K 5RD, +44 (0)20 7514 0016, rejinapyo.com

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2. ‘The trends this season seem to be really diverse, from Vetements to Gucci.

It’s great to see brands celebrating individualism’ Vetements autumn/ winter 2017/18, vetementswebsite.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 70

PHOTOS: (2) © GORUNWAY.COM; (4) MARK BLOWER

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6. ‘No 4 Bois de Balincourt by Maison Louis Marie is a great scent. It’s my signature fragrance’ Maison Louis Marie No 4 Bois de Balincourt eau de parfum, 50ml, £86, The Conran Shop, 55 Marylebone High Street, London W1U 5HS, +44 (0)20 7723 2223, maisonlouismarie.com

4. ‘In London, I love going to Dover Street Market and, when there, I always try and visit the Rose Bakery for some delicious cake’ Dover Street Market, 18-22 Haymarket, London SW1Y 4DG, +44 (0)20 7518 0680, doverstreetmarket.com

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5. ‘Korean label Yuul Yie is my favourite shoe brand. We have collaborated on a footwear collection for the past few seasons. The shoes are unique and practical at the same time’ Rejina Pyo x Yuul Yie Miya shoes, £399, rejinapyo.com

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BOHO CHIC

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Combine a floral dress, velvet loafers and art deco earrings for an eclectic all-day look 1

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1. Urban Decay Naked Heat eyeshadow palette, £39.50, Debenhams, 334-348 Oxford Street, London W1C 1JG, 0344 800 8877 (within UK), urbandecay.co.uk

4. Rixo dress, £245, The Shop at Bluebird, 350 King’s Road, London SW3 5UU, +44 (0)20 7351 3873, rixo.co.uk

2. Ara Vartanian earrings, £2,000, Ara Vartanian, 44 Bruton Place, London W1J 6PB, +44 (0)20 7493 4751, aravartanian.com

5. Le Monde Beryl shoes, £285, Alex Eagle, 6-10 Lexington Street, London W1F 0LB, +44 (0)20 7589 0588, lemondeberyl.com

3. Coach bag, £650, Coach, 206 Regent Street, London W1B 5BN, +44 (0)20 7734 8472, coach.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 70

PHOTO: (3) © COACH

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COOL CONTRASTS

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Opt for classic leather accessories with a colourful knit for a contemporary look

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PHOTOS: (1) DALIM; (3) © TED BAKER; (5) © SIMON B ARMITT

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1. Whistles sweater, £145, Whistles, 11 Boundary Street, London E2 7JE, +44 (0)20 7729 7209, whistles.com

4. Links of London watch, £195, Links of London, 491 Oxford Street, London W1C 2AU, +44 (0)20 3751 1030, linksoflondon.com

2. Elliot Rhodes neoprene belt, £129.50, Elliot Rhodes, 55 Duke of York Square, London SW3 4LY, +44 (0)20 7730 4000, elliotrhodes.com

5. Shaun Leane bracelet, £180, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), shaunleane.com

3. Ted Baker backpack, £159, Ted Baker, 245 Regent Street, London W1B 2EN, +44 (0)20 7493 6251, tedbaker.com

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BEAUTY FIX British brands can help you with all your skincare and make-up needs

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1. Skin & Tonic Coco Mask, 50g, £22, Anthropologie, 158 Regent Street, London W1B 5SW, +44 (0)20 7529 9800, skinandtoniclondon.com

4. De Mamiel Altitude inhalation oil, 10ml, £28, Space NK, 27 Duke of York Square, London SW3 4LY, +44 (0)20 7730 9841, demamiel.com

2. La Belle Lune Organic Skin face oil, 20ml, £46, Content Beauty & Wellbeing, 14 Bulstrode Street, London W1U 2JG, +44 (0)20 3075 1006, labellelune.com

5. Lola’s Apothecary Delicate Romance Balancing Body & Massage Oil, 100ml, £40, John Bell & Croyden, 50-54 Wigmore Street, London W1U 2AU, +44 (0)20 7935 5555, lolasapothecary.com

3. John Frieda Luxurious Volume Core Restore Advanced Protein Volumiser, 60ml, £9.99, Boots, 193 Oxford Street, London W1D 2JY, +44 (0)20 7287 5025, johnfrieda.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 70

S H O P | 21

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6. Elliona Gel Off gel polish remover, 125ml, £11.75, Tesco Superstore, West Cromwell Road, London W14 8PB, +44 (0)345 677 9067, elliona.com

9. Cult51 Day Cream, 50ml, £100, Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, London W1A 1ER, +44 (0)20 7734 8040, cult51.com

7. This Works In Transit Skin Defence moisturiser, 40ml, £29, John Lewis, 300 Oxford Street, London W1C 1DX, +44 (0)20 7629 7711, thisworks.com

10. Amly Digital Detox face mist, 100ml, £42, Mortar & Milk, 793 Fulham Road, London SW6 5HD, +44 (0)20 7731 3415, amlybotanicals.com

8. Charlotte Tilbury contour wand, £29, Charlotte Tilbury, 11-12 James Street, London WC2E 8BT, +44 (0)20 3846 9469, charlottetilbury.com

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At London Fashion Week this season, volume was the name of the game – from out-there flares to sleeves that popped, it was go big or go home for London’s street-style set

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 70

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

STREET ST YLE

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N E W S | 25

SHOP WINDOW

A MAN’S WORLD In August 2017, Liberty unveiled its refurbished menswear department. Presenting a completely new look after its first makeover in 10 years, the department stocks more than 20 new brands. Some of the highlights include an updated denim section with labels such as Acne Studios, an area dedicated to globalblue.com

Japanese brands, including Fabric and Kapital, and a T-shirt gallery.

The Central Designer Gallery is home to key global brands, while Liberty’s accessory offering for men can be examined in the Collector’s Room. grc Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, liberty.co.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 61

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FOR THE RECORD

Italian brand Paul & Shark has opened its first UK flagship store at St James’s Market on Regent Street Saint James’s, which borders one of London’s most exclusive shopping districts.

The shop celebrates the brand’s heritage, merging Paul & Shark’s elegant Italian look with a contemporary feel to ensure a relaxed shopping experience.

Stainless steel fixtures and shelving in metallic blue, as used on luxury yachts, capture the brand’s inspiration from sailing and adventure. Collections on offer range from high-quality sporty and outdoor styles to more formal and urban looks. js Paul & Shark, 20 Regent Street St James’s, London SW1Y 4PH, +44 (0)20 7839 3440, paulandshark.co.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 62

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 70

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 61

PHOTO: (LEFT) JUSTIN LEIGHTON

SAIL AWAY

With the increasing popularity of vinyl music recordings, watch and bicycle brand Shinola has branched out to create turntables.

Shinola Audio’s Runwell turntable (£2,500) combines a retro look with modern technology. Delivering highquality sound, the turntable is belt-driven and features a friction-free all-metal tone arm, a modular phono preamplifier and a moving phono cartridge for an excellent vinyl experience. rre Shinola, 28 Foubert’s Place, London W1F 7PR, +44 (0)20 7734 5402, shinola.co.uk

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STYLE NOTES

MUSICALLY MINDED London-based, Paris-inspired ready-to-wear label Être Cécile takes inspiration from the underground music scene of the 1980s for its latest collection.

The brand is known for its sense of cool, so the new-wave rockers of this on-trend decade seem a perfect crowd from which to draw influence. Statement T-shirts and slogan sweaters are made to be dressed up or down, looking equally as stylish with sweatpants as they do with a sleek pencil skirt. Red, white and blue feature heavily – a nod to the French flag – and the whole collection is designed to be mixed and matched in myriad combinations. hl Paper Mache Tiger, 26 Cross Street, London N1 2BG, +44 (0)20 7729 9620, etrececile.com globalblue.com

This autumn, Phaidon publishes a stunning new book, Yves Saint Laurent Accessories

by Patrick Mauriès (£39.95). The book focuses on the influential French fashion designer’s couture accessories, from his 1962 debut to his closing collection in 2002.

Of its 432 pages, some 300 feature colour or black and white illustrations, including sketches, portraits, catwalk images and key advertising campaigns, many of which are previously unpublished. As the first book to focus on Yves Saint Laurent’s exquisite jewellery, hats, bags and shoes, Phaidon’s new title is a must-have. grc Waterstones, 203-206 Piccadilly, London W1J 9HD, +44 (0)20 7851 2400, phaidon.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 62

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FASHION MEETS FUNCTION

TEAM PLAYER High-street retailer Uniqlo has collaborated with designer JW Anderson on a collection for autumn/winter 2017/18.

Comprising 33 pieces, the line is based around British classics and is made using a combination of heritage British fabrics and Uniqlo’s innovative materials, such as its Heattech thermal technology. Double-breasted trench coats, quilted jackets and Fair Isle sweaters are just a selection of the covetable pieces in this collection for men and women. grc Uniqlo, 311 Oxford Street, London W1C 2HP, +44 (0)20 7016 1500, uniqlo.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 59

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 70

British innovation meets American functionality in Eastpak’s three-piece capsule collaboration with YMC. Eastpak’s classic Wyoming backpack (£90) and Springer bumbag feature a grey and black geometric maze print also found in YMC’s autumn/winter 2017/18 clothing collection. Inspired by industrial design, each piece has oversized zippers, leather details and honeycomb ripstop lining. Anyone seeking practical accessories with a stylish edge need look no further. rre YMC, 23 Hanbury Street, London E1 6QR, +44 (0)20 3432 3010, youmustcreate.com

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WORLD TOUR

ONE TO WATCH Breakthrough British brand Danse Lente specialises in luxury leather accessories with a minimalist aesthetic. The brand, which is based in London, constructs each piece in Italian calfskin leather with the finest craftsmanship and attention to detail. The designs, which are inspired by modern architecture, are available in a neutral palette with contrasting navy, nude and red details. Danse Lente, which means ‘slow dance’ in French, offers a compact but varied collection of structured and stylish handbags for every outfit and occasion. rre Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), danselente.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 60

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 70

Gallivant is a new perfume brand that makes fragrances for urban explorers and frequent travellers. Founded by Nick Steward, a veteran of the perfume industry, the brand’s selection of fragrances is inspired by some of the world’s coolest and most exciting cities. The London scent has green top notes, a floral heart and base notes of leather and wood. This eau de parfum is said to capture the essence of London’s addictive atmosphere and its ability to attract opposites in the most stimulating way.

Stocked by Roullier White, the unisex fragrances are presented in chic and minimalist packaging.

At 30ml, they are travel-size and ideal for the modern nomad. js Roullier White, 125 Lordship Lane, London SE22 8HU, +44 (0)20 8693 5150, gallivant-perfumes.com

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LONDON WELCOMES WEEKDAY

Front-row fashion show seats are normally kept for celebrities and industry insiders, but London Fashion Week Festival allows all fashion lovers to experience the glamour of the catwalk. This exciting event takes place in February and September. It gives visitors the opportunity to attend shows that highlight new-season collections and to shop the latest from British and international designers – at exclusive prices. After talks from industry experts such as designers Ashish and Alice Temperley, let beauty professionals give you a mini-makeover with the latest hairstyles and make-up trends. If you want a first-class experience, opt for the Luxe or Luxe Premium packages. Book online to enjoy seats on the front row and complimentary prosecco and canapés – you’ll also receive a limited-edition gift bag. rre The Store Studios, 180 The Strand, London WC2R 1EA, londonfashionweekfestival.com Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 70

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 61

PHOTO: (LEFT) DAN SIMS/BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL

JOIN THE FRONT ROW

Swedish denim and fashion brand Weekday has launched its first UK store on London’s Regent Street with 650 square metres of modern and minimalistic designs that reference the city’s youthful approach to fashion. Weekday occupies two floors of one of Regent Street’s beautiful buildings, uniting the urban style of the brand with the heritage of its surroundings. Visit the store to see the label’s covetable autumn/ winter 2017/18 collection. js Weekday, 226 Regent Street, London W1B 3BR, weekday.com

WOMEN SHAPE THE WORLD WE SHAPE THEIR SHOES

SEE THE NEW 2017 AUTUMN/WINTER COLLECTION IN STORES NOW ECCO OXFORD STREET 445 Oxford Street, W1C 2PP London +44 207 629 10 16 ECCO OXFORD CIRCUS 261 Oxford Street, W1C 2DE London +44 207 495 47 96 ECCO COVENT GARDEN 36 Long Acre, WC2E 9JT London +44 207 379 51 45 ECCO KENSINGTON 102 Kensington High Street, W8 4SG London +44 207 938 25 83

eccoshoesuk.com

ECCO WESTFIELD Westfield Shopping Centre, Unit 1114, W12 7GD London +44 208 735 18 30 ECCO WIMBLEDON Centre Court Shopping Centre, The Broadway, SW19 8ND, London +44 208 947 86 65

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A BIG FISH

ARKET HAS ARRIVED The H&M group has chosen London as the location for one of its first Arket stores. Devised by a team of designers, chefs, architects and buyers, this new brand focuses on quality and durability, with sustainability as one of its key values. Visit the new store to discover clothing for men, women and children, as well as homeware. The store also stocks a range of brands that compliment Arket’s own offering, including Adidas and Veja. grc Arket, 224 Regent Street, London W1B 3BR, +44 (0)20 3402 9150, arket.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 61

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 70

Dune London, which makes shoes and bags, has joined forces with London-based designer Kit Neale on a collection that launched in October. Known for his colourful, playful prints, Kit Neale says his collaboration was inspired by his multicultural home city, which he examined through the prism of its gastronomy. The collection of 10 shoe styles, as well as accessories that include holdalls, rucksacks and wash bags, combines bright colours with vibrant prints, as seen on this fun Trigger passport holder (ÂŁ65). grc Dune London, 490 Oxford Street, London W1C 1LF, +44 (0)20 7493 1731, dunelondon.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 60

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THE RISE OF THE FLAT Comfortable and practical, yet as glamorous as heels, flats are reaching new heights of style, as Sally McIlhone discovers

Above: Russell & Bromley autumn/winter 2017/18

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hether it’s a limitededition sneaker, a pool slide or a slipper-style mule, the flat shoe has dominated the catwalks for the past few years.

With a move towards more wearable outfits in the real world, women are casting aside skyscraper heels in favour of glamorous flat options which are no less feminine but far more comfortable. London’s footwear designers are pioneers in the field of flat styles, creating chic yet practical options from loafers to whimsical ballet pumps that continue to captivate fashion fans.

Charlotte Olympia Dellal, founder of the Charlotte Olympia brand, has been creating covetable footwear since 2008. The designer is best known for her signature Kitty flats, an endearing twist on the ballet slipper with an embroidered cat’s face and pointy ears.

The Kitty is now available in a range of colours and styles, including backless slippers, pool slides and espadrilles in every design from leopard print to the

The flat shoe is dominating the catwalk and the real world alike

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British flag; it’s hard to believe these ultra-modern shoes were inspired

by Agatha Christie’s novel Cat Among The Pigeons, published in 1959. The Kitty slippers first appeared in the 2011 To Die For range, and Dellal was initially surprised at the motif’s success. ‘It was never intended to be what it became,’ she told Luxury London; however, this seasonal favourite remains as popular as ever and is now part of the Encore collection. If there is one item from Charlotte Olympia’s charming range to get your claws into, the Kitty is it.

For those who prefer a bespoke edge to their fabulous flats, Nicholas Kirkwood has the answer. The brand’s Beya style has been spotted on a host of celebrities, including supermodel Gigi Hadid, and Kirkwood recently launched a customisation service on his website that allows customers to create their

own Beya loafer or mule.

Russell & Bromley is a British brand with a New Bond Street flagship and a storied history that is reflected in its current ranges of luxury footwear. Heritage styles such as the brand’s loafers are the perfect way to smarten up a cropped trouser suit or lend a touch of boyish charm to a midiskirt and cashmere jumper combination. In recent seasons, the brand’s flats have been flying off the shelves.

‘We’re seeing a real move towards lower midi heels and flats and away from the higher heels which used to dominate fashion trends,’ says Stefanie Hutton, the brand’s head of PR. ‘The sports trend has really influenced women’s choice of footwear so we naturally saw that women were seeking comfort

Above and left: Charlotte Olympia’s charming Kitty flats have become the brand’s signature style

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and fashion in one shoe.’

For autumn/winter 2017/18 this commitment to combining comfort with fashion translates into wine-coloured ballet pumps with velvet ribbons, red slippers embroidered with a pink and gold floral design, flatform trainers, chunky black ankle boots with a spray of gemstones at the toe and, of course, tasselled and horse-bit loafers in a range of colours and styles. ‘Our heritage is in mannish loafers and heritage style has come full circle to be fashionable and on-trend currently,’ explains Hutton. ‘We update in seasonal colours and experiment with new textures, but, ultimately, keep it simple.’ To this end, Russell & Bromley has even revived archived styles. ‘Very positively, we have brought back our classic Brewster snaffle loafer due to popular demand,’ notes Hutton.

Rebecca Farrar-Hockley, creative director of Kurt Geiger, believes the popularity of the flat lies in its ability to be worn every day. ‘Flats have become huge over the last few seasons and have become a daily staple to suit

The trend for flats is showing no sign of abating – and our feet are grateful

Above (clockwise from top left): Russell & Bromley Brewster snaffle loafers; Kurt Geiger Lamar and Lounge footwear; Nicholas Kirkwood Beya flat, all autumn/winter 2017/18

PHOTOS: (TOP RIGHT) PIXELATE IMAGING

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everyday style.’ Farrar-Hockley highlights the brand’s backless slippers as one of the most popular styles for spring/summer 2017, and this is set to continue. For the coming season, she says, ‘many of our flats are elevated with embellishments taking you from everyday style to eveningwear.’

From the velvet Kingly Mary Jane-style flat with embellished globalblue.com

strap to the Carvela black and gold Lounge slipper, there are plenty of styles to take you from meeting to dinner party and beyond.

Kurt Geiger’s secret is to encourage designers to create footwear with a personal touch. ‘A large majority of product designed [here] is formed around the team’s desire to create footwear that they would wear themselves,’ FarrarHockley explains. A switched-on design team who have an eye for taste and trends means the latest Kurt Geiger range contains winning flat styles, whether you’re looking for trainers, slippers or loafers. ‘Many of our sell-out flat styles – such as the Lamar trainer and KG’s Otter backless mule – have been repeated for the forthcoming season, demonstrating that our seasonal hero styles retain their appeal,’ says Farrar-Hockley.

With so many styles returning for the autumn/winter season, the trend for flats is showing no sign of abating. Our feet are grateful for the elegance as well as the comfort factor

THE

Fragrance uture OF

London’s creative perfumers are taking niche to the next level. Joanna McGinn highlights some of the best

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79

PHOTO: ANDREW MEREDITH

Above: the Penhaligon’s Bespoke by Alberto Morillas boutique inside the Salon de Parfums at Harrods

P

erfume is having a moment.

There’s a whiff of change in the air and it has nothing to do with your mother’s old favourites.

After years of super-brand domination, the perfume landscape has shifted, and a new band of scent rebels is challenging the status quo.

The revolution began some 20 years ago, when Parisian fragrance guru Frédéric Malle launched his Editions de Parfums, selecting ‘super-noses’ to create perfumes under their own names and thus turning the spotlight back onto the scent rather than the marketing circus that surrounds big labels. Yet it is only recently that the trend has exploded. Leading the charge are bottled-in-London brands such as Perfumer H and 4160 Tuesdays, renegade scents such as mushroom and hot sand, and a summer 2017 exhibition at Somerset House

dedicated to all things olfactory.

Niche brands made up nearly half of 2016’s 2,000 new perfume launches, reports Premium Beauty News, fuelled by the long-tail effect of internet sales. But with all this creativity, there’s a danger of niche fatigue setting in, as consumers become overwhelmed by choice. A handful of London-based fragrance specialists are responding – not only by shifting our notions of scent but also the way we consume it.

One such perfume provocateur is fragrance specialist and scent forecaster Emmanuelle Moeglin, who launched the Experimental Perfume Club in 2015 with the aim of reconnecting people with their sense of smell and demystifying the perfume-making process. ‘People in cities are already bored of niche brands – they are looking for the next level,’ she says. ‘They want to

Above (from left): French fragrance maestro Frédéric Malle; a selection of his brand’s Editions de Parfums

PHOTO: (LEFT) © JULIA MAGENAU 2007

44 | F E AT U R E S

S H O P | 45

PHOTOS: EXPERIMENTAL PERFUME CLUB

A handful of London fragrance specialists are shifting our notions of scent and the way we consume it

peek behind the scenes. It’s as much about the experience as it is about creating something bespoke or unique.’

The keen-nosed and curious should visit Moeglin’s ‘micro-lab’, hidden on a back street behind hipster hotspot Broadway Market.

The space is a world away from the perfumeries of west London; Moeglin describes it as ‘an open-access perfume lab – dedicated to the juice.’ Attend a workshop to learn how to create a unique perfume, have a bespoke consultation to bottle a favourite smell, or simply turn up to the twice-monthly open-lab sessions and ‘play’ without boundaries.

‘Some of the most interesting scents develop when people experiment and you get offbeat flavours like Thai basil curry,’ enthuses Moeglin. Her business model, she

Above (from top): the Experimental Perfume Club’s ‘micro-lab’; Emmanuelle Moeglin, the club’s founder

46 | F E AT U R E S

says, has always been ‘a community of creators. People come back to learn more, they stay in touch.’

She’s built up such a following that the business is now being crowd-funded – in contrast to the more usual corporate mould.

‘It’s grown organically and I want to keep it that way,’ says Moeglin firmly.

Keren Bester, another east London perfumer, runs the Chemical Poetry Club, a subscription service that delivers three samples from a different artisanal producer every month.

Bester sifts through the plethora of indies to select the truly innovative, seeking, she says, ‘polarising brands’ that aren’t shy about provoking a response. The idea, she explains, is to ‘help showcase some of the extraordinary creativity of the independent perfumers and encourage online discussion to create a perfume appreciation club. If we can all imagine the soundtrack to our lives, should we not be

actively building our scent tracks?

That’s what I want to do with Chemical Poetry Club.’

Bester agrees that customer demands are changing. ‘I think the growing desire people have for uniqueness is also a desire for something more authentic. There’s a growing connoisseurship movement. Coffee, gin, wine, chocolate… why not perfume, too?’ she asks.

‘We’ll help our customers to educate their nose and discern what they like and don’t like, and why.’

Her mission is to elevate perfume to an art form. ‘If

Above (top left and bottom): essences await mixing at the Experimental Perfume Club; eau de parfum by 4160 Tuesdays, featured by the Chemical Poetry Club

PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT) EXPERIMENTAL PERFUME CLUB; (TOP CENTRE) ANDREW MEREDITH

S H O P | 47

From the ultraluxurious to the more affordable, personalised perfume is here to stay you break it down, perfume is a chemical poem,’ she says. ‘The idea is to build a community who can contribute to that poetry by sampling some of the most provocative and divine chemistry out there.’

The heritage brands are upping their game too, looking for new ways to satisfy the growing demand for uniqueness. Mayfair perfumer Creed now offers a monogramming service; customers can sip champagne while their perfume bottle is engraved. Quintessentially British house Penhaligon’s has just launched its super-luxe Bespoke by Alberto Morillas concept. For a cool £35,000, the world-renowned nose will create a one-of-a-kind scent presented in a hand-customised bottle: an intensely individual process that takes months. From the ultra-luxurious to the more affordable, personalised perfume is here to stay

Above (centre and right): Penhaligon’s semi-bespoke fragrances are a further example of the trend for personalisation; Creed’s monogramming service

48 | E X P E R I E N C E

TABLE TALK A Sunday roast is a British classic – and a must-try in the colder months, says Hannah Lewis

The British roast dinner, also called a Sunday roast, after the day it is most typically served, is a national institution. Consisting of roast meat, potatoes, seasonal vegetables and gravy, this classic dish is so popular that it came second in a national poll of the things that make Britons proud to be British.

Like the the bacon sandwich or ‘butty’, and the iconic cup of tea or ‘cuppa’ – which came first and third respectively in the poll – it’s a classic that no one should visit London without sampling.

On Sundays in the city, most pubs serving food will offer their own interpretation of a roast dinner, and increasing numbers of the most stylish and innovative restaurants are doing the same.

Proving the versatility of the Sunday roast, the capital’s chefs are playing with different meats and side dishes, and adding new flavours and ingredients. Whether you pick a down-to-earth pub or a sophisticated restaurant, be sure to take friends. A roast is a social meal, made to be shared in cosy surroundings. globalblue.com

OXBO BANKSIDE Executive chef Paul Bates aims to raise British dishes to the next level with his menu at Oxbo Bankside, and the Sunday roast is no different. The three-course meal begins with an all-you-caneat buffet of starters, which might include potted crab and shrimp, or Iberico chorizo, sourced from a local specialist. The main roasts change weekly, depending on the best seasonal produce. Recent offerings include sirloin of Gloucestershire beef and cornfed chicken. Vegetarians will also find tasty options here. Expect all the trimmings, perfectly suited to the joint of meat, from potatoes roasted in duck fat to excellent Yorkshire puddings. Finish the meal by choosing from a selection of unlimited desserts and a wellstocked cheese board. For a celebratory touch, order the bottomless drinks option, which offers free-flowing prosecco throughout.

Oxbo Bankside, Hilton London Bankside, 2-8 Great Suffolk Street, London SE1 0UG, +44 (0)20 7593 3900, oxbobankside.co.uk

50 | E X P E R I E N C E

CEVICHE OLD ST

globalblue.com

SOUTH PLACE CHOP HOUSE Located in the stylish South Place Hotel, the Chop House is a very modern venue, yet its Sunday dinner options would please the most traditional of roast lovers.

Pick from whole roast chicken with crispy potatoes and bread sauce, tender lamb shoulder with balsamic onions and mashed potato, or sirloin of beef with

PHOTO: (LEFT) PAUL WINCH-FURNESS

The Sunday roast menu at Ceviche Old St has a distinctive Peruvian twist. Served all day, the menu offers pollo a la Brasa, a Peruvian favourite of marinated rotisserie chicken, and seco de berenjena, a vegetarian dish of braised aubergine. From Monday to Saturday, there is a roast of the day, which might be rolled pork shoulder with panca chilli and coriander, or charcoal-grilled sirloin marinated with panca, cumin and garlic. Peruvianinspired side dishes, such as spicy tamales and broccoli in a cheesy chilli sauce, accompany the meats.

For drinks, take a look at the house cocktails. Ceviche’s spicy take on the Bloody Mary is a standout.

Ceviche Old St, 2 Baldwin Street, London EC1V 9NU, +44 (0)20 3327 9463, cevicheuk.com/oldst

S H O P| 51

PHOTO: (RIGHT) WILLIAM REAVELL

THE PIG & BUTCHER

Yorkshire pudding and roast potatoes. Each option comes with delicious seasonal vegetables, rich homemade gravy and a seriously good cauliflower cheese.

Alternative options include a tasty duck cottage pie and vegetarian dishes such as mushroom ragout.

South Place Chop House, 3 South Place, London EC2M 2AF, +44 (0)20 3215 1270, southplacehotel.com

The Pig & Butcher is a countrystyle pub at the heart of Angel in the London borough of Islington.

It specialises in high-quality meat, especially pork, sourced from independent farms in the UK, and the Sunday roast menu is no different. Joints on offer change frequently, depending on availability. They might include individual portions of roasted leg of salt-marsh lamb, or roasted dry-aged Hereford sirloin, or sharing plates of chicken crown or pork chops. Classic British side dishes include fluffy Yorkshire puddings, crisp roast potatoes, seasonal vegetables and rich gravy.

The drinks list is equally wellconsidered, with wines from small, family-owned vineyards, and a wide variety of British craft beers.

The Pig & Butcher, 80 Liverpool Rd, London N1 0QD, +44 (0)20 7226 8304, thepigandbutcher.co.uk

G U I D E | 53

GUIDE

PHOTO: MÓNICA R GOYA

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to London with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a romantic jeweller to a top eyewear boutique. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our welltravelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.

Above: autumnal colours in Kew Gardens

54 | G U I D E

SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOS: MÓNICA R GOYA; JULIA SPAETH; SELINA TAN

‘London is the ultimate city experience; from live gigs to high tea, you can have it all when you visit this eclectic capital’ – Selina Tan, SHOP’s picture assistant

globalblue.com

S H O P | 55

Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopmagazine_.

Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

56 | G U I D E

LONDON MARYLEBONE WARWICK AVENUE EDGWARE ROAD

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58 | G U I D E

TOP 3 ...

THINGS TO BUY AT KENSINGTON PALACE with the Imperial Crown of India, made for George V and held at the Tower of London, will add a touch of regal charm to future travels.

Tudor Court earrings A collaborative piece from luxury jewellery specialist Clogau, these delicate drop earrings take inspiration from the elaborate carvings on Anne Boleyn’s Gateway at Hampton Court Palace.

Boasting silver, rose gold and mother of pearl, the earrings contain a touch of Welsh gold from the mine used since 1923 to create jewellery for the British royal family.

Diamante box clutch bags Choose a Swarovski crystalencrusted square clutch bag to add a touch of sparkle to evening outfits this party season.

Available in silver and gold, the bags can also be worn with a chain-link shoulder strap.

Luxurious leather accessories Gold-coloured leather passport and travel card holders, embossed

Oxford Street (North) ● TIGER ● FOOT LOCKER ● PURFUME SHOP ● SAMSUNG ● MOLESKIN

SUNGLASS HUT ● CURRYS PC WORLD ● BOOTS ● ANN SUMMERS ● THE PERFUME SHOP ● CLAIRES ●

The Plaza

W EL LS

ST RE ET

MOSS BROS ●

● ● ● ●

JACAMO ● SIMPLY BE ●

● MARKS & SPENCER ● LUSH ● VISION EXPRESS ● MUJI ● BOOTS

MA R KE T P L .

H&M ●

ALDO ● OFFICE ● RUSSELL & BROMLEY ●

to ir C o m p a is L ib a n

ET

RE ET

ST RE ET

UNIQLO ●

D KEN W E ED E R ● EN OFF

MATALAN ULANKA EE FLIGHT CENTRE

STR E

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L●

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TIMBERLAND ●

OXFORD STREET

SPORTS DIRECT ● HAWES & CURTIS ●

ST LE ST

MA RG AR ET

EA STCA

FOOT ASYLUM ●

O AT R

TP F O O K S T. NS ● W IC B E R U D IE JE A N

REET LAY ST D’ARB

● CLARKS ● VODAFONE ● JESSOPS ● CALZEDONIA

R AM IL

.

LI E S ST

THE PHOTOGRAPHERS GALLERY

● JD SPORTS ● NEW LOOK ● RIVER ISLAND

SCHUH ● URBAN OUTFITTERS ●

● ZARA ● BERSHKA

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Restaurant

Shopping Centre/Mall

S H O P | 59

Oxford Street (Central) ST R EE T

MISS SELFRIDGE ●

● VEL-OH

TOPSHOP/TOPMAN ● NIKETOWN ●

REG EN T STR EE

OXFORD STREET

RT LA ND GR EAT PO

● MANGO ● GAP ● BUREAU DE CHANGE

● TEZENIS

R E G EN

OXFORD CIRCUS

T

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● BENETTON

H&M ●

● PANDORA ● ECCO

HEN RIE TTA

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● AMERICAN CANDY

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PLA CE

H SAMUEL ● RESERVED ● CLARKS ● WAREHOUSE ●

● FREAK NAUGHTY ● ERNEST JONES ● FOOT LOCKER

GEOX ● THE BODY SHOP ● COAST ● G -STAR RAW ●

Cavendish Square Gardens

● CARPISA ● NEW BALANCE

S VE RE

P.28

● SWATCH ● PULL & BEAR

HANDEL HOUSE MUSEUM

T

● SWAROVSKI ● NEXT

NE

O WB

ND

STR

JOHNSTONS ● OF ELGIN

JO MALONE ●

EET

LINKS OF LONDON ●

MONICA VINADER ●

Bureau De Change ● VODAFONE

THE DISNEY STORE ●

K ST R E E

● UNIQLO

● ZARA

T.

Debenhams ● VELVET

● STRADIVARIUS

REET

ST RE ET

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● RIVER ISLAND

K ST

WI GM OR E

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● MOSS BROS

● MASSIMO DUTTI ACCESSORIZE ● CALZEDONIA ● FOSSIL ● SUNGLASS HUT ●

Meat Liquor

BROO

PLA CE

OXFORD STREET

HE N R IET TA

John Lewis

House Of Fraser

W EL B EC

Hanover Square

● EE

T HO LLE S ST REE

SO

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N TE OL M

ET RE ST

● BROWNS FOCUS ● O2 ● OUD MILANO

● VILAGALLO

QUEENSMITH Queensmith creates some of the most stunning fine jewellery and engagement rings in the city.

Production is entirely in-house and customers can commission bespoke pieces for a personal touch. We are particularly taken with the Rainer and Garland designs from the Halo collection this season.

London Underground Station Featured In This Issue

Queensmith, 29A Greville Street, London EC1N 8AF, +44 (0)20 7831 1901, queensmith.co.uk

Department Store

Global Blue Refund Office

60 | G U I D E

Oxford Street (South) ● BOOTS ● HMV BUREAU ● DE CHANGE VIVIENNE ● TISSOT ● WESTWOOD

JOHN BELL & CROYDEN ●

Ivy Café

SUNGLASS HUT ● FOREVER 21 ●

JA M E S ST

R EE T

BOND STREET OXFORD STREET

H&M ● INTIMISSIMI ● ALDO ● THE BODY SHOP ● PHASE EIGHT ●

GAP ●

● JD SPORTS

West One Centre

● BOOTS ● EE ● RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● COLOUR LONDON

DR MARTENS ●

● CARPHONE WAREHOUSE TM LEWIN ● ● INGLOT FRENCH CONNECTION ● ● LONGINES PENELOPE CHILVERS ● ● AMI ● GOLDSMITH

DU KE ST

P.30

RE ET

● ADIDAS

Selfridges ST CHRISTOPHER’S PLACE

● & OTHER STORIES ● ARABIAN OUD

LES 100 CIELS ●

JAM E S STR E E

WATCHES OF ● SWITZERLAND ● ECCO ● DYSON ● TESLA SO NY RE ● OMEGA ● CE NT

DIVERSO ●

● GROOM

OR CH AR D

NO RT H

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MARKS & SPENCER ●

ST.

● ZARA ● PANDORA

SCHUH ●

● BERSHKA

VODAFONE ●

● RIVER ISLAND

CLARKS ●

● URBAN OUTFITTERS

RUSSELL & BROMLEY ●

● SWAROVSKI

EE ●

P.34

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● LINKS

DUNE LONDON ●

● FOLLI FOLLIE

BOUX AVENUE ● MONSOON ●

ST.

OX F O R D S T R E

NEW LOOK ●

PO RT MA N

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SUPERDRUG ● BOOTS ●

ET

ANN SUMMERS ●

GEOX ● WALLIS ● TOPSHOP ●

● PRIMARK ● ASICS ● EVANS

PA R K LA

NE

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MARBLE ARCH

RE ET

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HOLLAND & BARRETT ●

Founded by husband-and-wife team Terry Blake and Yohini Nandakumar, Sparrow offers a regularly changing menu that makes the most of seasonal produce and deliciously exploits the small plates concept. With experience at London restaurants Pollen Street Social and St John, there is no doubting the founders’ credentials. Diners can share options such as bruschettas of mushroom and butternut squash or broccoli and coconut salad, followed by heartier dishes of duck with chilli jam or pork belly with harissa. The chocolate and caramel tart is a delightful way to finish a meal.

Sparrow, 2 Rennell Street, London SE13 7HD, +44 (0)20 8318 6941, sparrowlondon.co.uk

NO RT H RO

NEXT ●

SPARROW

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Café

Shopping Centre/Mall

S H O P | 61

Regent Street & Carnaby Street LEVI’S ●

● NIKETOWN ● TOPSHOP/TOPMAN

H&M ●

OXFORD CIRCUS BENETTON ●

MARS

THE CUBIT TS WORK SHOP ●

H A LL

● ARMANI EXCHANGE

STR E

LACOSTE ●

ET

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MOLTON BROWN ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● TORY BURCH ●

HOUSE OF ● HANOV ER

● ALL SAINTS ● H&M ● WEEKDAY P.32 ● COACH T I STUART AR OV SK H S T R EE ● WEITZMAN SW YS TA LL IZ ED OROUG ● CR MARLB T P.34 G R E AT ● AR KE

T

LONGCHAMP ●

TRADIT IONAL WEATH ERWEA R ●

● ACCESSORIZE

Y ST

APPLE ●

● KIKO ● OMEGA ● & OTHER STORIES

NAB

TED BAKER ●

RE ET

PL ACE ERT ' S FO U B ● SHINOLA P.26

CAR

KAREN MILLEN ●

REGENT STREE T

ASICS ●

HANOVER STREET ● 77 DIAMOND S

OX FO RD ST

● TEZENIS

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CAR

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P.25 Liberty MISS FURLA ● ● COS ● SIXTY HOBBS ● BARKER ● ● TOMS ● DESIGUAL TUMI ● T ADIDAS ORIGINALS ● E ● FORNARINA E CAMPER ● R ● GAP ● LAMBRETTA ST KIPLING ● THE MAKEUP STORE ● X ● PYLONES DO SIZE? ● CLARKS ● ● PEPE JEANS AD IRREGULAR CHOICE ● M ● DIESEL P.14 GOAT ● GOLA ● ● THE KOOPLES MUJI ● JUICY THE EAST INDIA COMPANY ● CHURCH’S ● EL GANSO ● ● COUTURE ● STORM LINKS OF LONDON ● WESC ● ● COACH HACKETT ● ● OFFICE FERRARI ● ● DAVID AND GOLIATH REPLAY ● ● HAMLEY’S LULU LEMON ● VIVIENNE ● LEE HILFIGER WESTWOOD ● GANT BOSE ● DENIM ● ● G-STAR RAW MAN ● T ● MERC E VANS ● RE ● HUGO BOSS T ● MUJI JACK WOLFSKIN ● HENRI LLOYD ● TS I KATE U ● HUGO BOSS HAWES & CURTIS ● D MACKINTOSH ● ● SPADE N BEN SHERMAN ● ● TRUE RELIGION T M LEWIN ● CO ● LEVI’S LEVI’S ● ● THE NORTH FACE 7 FOR ALL MAN KIND ● VIVIENNE PUMA ● ● REISS ● BOOTS THE EXCHANGE GROUP ● ● WESTWOOD SOCCER CALVIN KLEIN ● AMERICAN APPAREL SCENE ● ● JEANS ● EASTPAK ALBAM ● ● GUESS ● SWEATY BETTY ● HUNTER J CREW ● ● ILLAMASQUA ● ANTHROPOLOGIE ● MASSIMO DUTTI CRABTREE & EVELYN ●

R EE

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● RUSSELL & BROMLEY

ET

STR

● T M LEWIN

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V IG O

ZARA HOME ●

STR

● MAPPIN & WEBB

PENHALIGON’S ●

ES

● TOMMY HILFIGER

E R JO

SWAROVSKI ●

LO W

● TIMBERLAND

GODIVA ●

JA M

● BROOKS BROTHERS

OXFORDS ●

● FOLLI FOLLIE

EET

ORLEBAR ● BROWN ● JOSEPH

TOYWATCH ● BURBERRY ●

● THE BODY SHOP ● ZARA ● MANGO

BRE WER S TREE T

REISS ● SUPERDRY ●

CLARKS ● LONDON TEXTILE CO

Department Store

ER

OW

L’OCCITANE ● KARL LAGERFELD ●

London Underground Station

● AUSTIN REED ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT ● MOSS BROS

Featured In This Issue

62 | G U I D E

KITE

further opportunity to try its cutting-edge styles and high-quality Zeiss lenses. The brand’s latest collection combines Italian craftsmanship, stainless steel and cellulose acetate to striking effect. The Alfa is our new-season pick.

Kite, 19-29 Redchurch Street, London E2 7DJ, kitegb.com

Eyewear brand Kite is opening its first concept store in the fashionable Shoreditch district for the autumn/winter season.

With a boutique at Westfield Stratford already charming visitors, Kite has designed its new space to give customers a

Regent Street & Piccadilly Circus ZARA HOME ● PENHALIGON’S ●

TOYWATCH ●

● RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● TM LEWIN ● FOLLI FOLLIE ● THE BODY SHOP

E BR

● ZARA

T D EE YAR TR HAM DINOSAUR DESIGN ● RS W E● WOOLRICH Ham Yard Hotel

FRESCOBOL ● CARIOCA BRUMMELS OF LONDON ● ● ONCE MILANO LAIRD & CO ● AUSTIN REED HATTERS ● ● VIYELLA E ● CHARLES TYRWHITT AV ● MOSS BROS CLARKS ● RY ● UNIQLO BU DENMAN STREET LONDON TEXTILE CO ● ● LUSH ● STEFANEL RE HOLLISTER ● G E ● COACH N T ● NESPRESSO HUNTER ● S T R ● LOTUS ● WOLFORD E

BURBERRY ●

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PLACE

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OSPREY LONDON ● ● PAUL & SHARK

Non-Global Blue Retailer London Underground Station

PICCADILLY CIRCUS ● LILLYWHITES

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COTSWOLD ● OUTDOOR

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Piccadilly Circus

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B CH ARB INA OU R● S PA RIS HOP ● MI KI ● WH IT T AR D● C MA AMP R Z IO O ● E XC E OF L LLENC OND H AW O N ●E ES & CU T H E S R T IS ● T IN G ●

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Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 63

Covent Garden Market Hall, King Street, Henrietta Street & Southampton Street

KURT GEIGER ●

JAM ES STR EET

DIOR ● ARMANI BOX ●

LADURÉE ●

BURBERRY ● MOLESKIN ● LYLE & SCOTT ●

Shake Shack

S O UTHAMP TON STREET

● CRABTREE & EVELYN

Covent Garden Market ● OAKLEY ● URBAN DECAY

● NARS

CLUB MONACO ●

NIGEL CABOURN ● KATHMANDU ●

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● JO MALONE ● STEFANEL

Rules ● OLIVER SWEENEY

M AID EN LA N

● DESTINY

HENRIETTA STREET

HACKETT ●

AFRICA CENTRE

● LUSH ● L’OCCITANE

OPENING CEREMONY ● THE SUIT COMPANY ●

● MELISSA

MOSS BROS ●

BONPOINT Bonpoint is adding to its 100% natural, hypoallergenic baby skincare range for autumn/ winter 2017/18. Discover the brand’s Crème Fluide Visage face cream, Lotion Douceur gentle lotion and Crème Corps body cream (pictured). The products are scented with fresh orange blossom, to cleanse, moisturise, soothe and relax.

Place Of Interest

Restaurant

Bonpoint, 256 Brompton Road, London SW3 2AS, +44 (0)20 3263 5057, bonpoint.com

● TRESPASS

RUGBY RALPH LAUREN ●

● JOY ● BRORA

● THE NORTH FACE

BURBERRY ● GODIVA ●

KING STR EE T

APPLE ●

● WATCH GALLERY ● MULBERRY ● LULU GUINNESS

COTSWOLD ●

LINKS ●

T

G SHOCK ● CASIO ●

BRIDGES ●

● TEA PALACE

ELLIS BRIGHAM MOUNTAIN SPORTS ●

THE DISNEY STORE ●

● PENHALIGON’S

EET

CARAT ● KABIRI ● PIAZZA ● JAMIE’S ●

BUILD-A-BEAR ●

EXE TER STR EE

LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM

QUIKSILVER ●

TAV IST OCK STR

EAST ●

FRED PERRY ●

PRETTY GREEN ●

PAPERCHASE ●

ROYAL OPERA HOUSE

● MOLTON BROWN

64 | G U I D E

Long Acre

RELAX ET ●

YOTOPIA ● TR

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BROMPTON JUNCTION ● ● RYMAN E ALL C R ● SAINTS

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ELLIOT RHODES ●

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Dalla Terra

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FRENCH CONNECTION ●

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● ORIGINAL PENGUIN ● RAY BAN ● SUNGLASS HUT

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GEOX ●

Bill’s

● DUO

MARKS & SPENCER ●

COVENT GARDEN

JOULES ●

● UGG

HOBBS ●

● MUJI

● ECCO REISS ● R E ● LES NEREIDES RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● AC● ASPINAL OF LONDON G LEVI'S ● N LO ● REEBOK CALVIN KLEIN ● ● GAP ● H&M GAP KIDS ● ● RABEANCO

● SNOW & ROCK

St. Martin’s Courtyard

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L RA

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● CADENZZA ● PANDORA ● JIGSAW

JA

JACK WOLFSKIN ● MASSIMO DUTTI ●

● CALZEDONIA ● REISS

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Covent Garden Market

Floral Street & James Street COVENT GARDEN ● SUNGLASS HUT M

KAREN MILLEN ●

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● OASIS ● CHARLOTTE TILBURY

PAUL SMITH SHOES ● DUNE ● PAUL SMITH ● TRUE CAMPER ● RELIGION ● DIPTYQUE ● ● TED BAKER

● ACCESSORIZE

JA

● RITUALS RADLEY ● ET FOSSIL ● ● MONSOON AGNÈS B ● R E NICOLE S T ● FARHI ● BOOTS TINTIN SHOP ● L ● THE SANCTUARY R A● AUBIN & WILLS THE BODY SHOP ● PAUL & JOE ● O F L ● UNITED NUDE H&M ● SWAROVSKI ● ● SKECHERS

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Global Blue Retailer Restaurant

Non-Global Blue Retailer

London Underground Station

S H O P | 65

A ● STR SH OL OP OG SO Y LE BI RK ● EN FI LO ST FA OC X K

Monmouth Street & Neal Street

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T EN OO DE EF O BI AR LL TA O B ST ● V I G I V IN DESTINY ● M ● R U Y SP ● ROSSODESIRA F ● S OF OFFICE ● U C ● FO TT LOLLIPOPS PARIS ● ● AR ● MYSTERIES HOTEL CHOCOLAT ● S RH SUPERGA ● NE MALIN + GOETZ ● CA S ● CRAZY PIG DESIGNS O L ● POP BOUTIQUE ● S EN PY ENERGIE ● ● ORION OC R D LS ● Y R A UA C AC G ● SPEEDO ● M ● COCO DE MER T FARAH ● S N AR RT CE RE PH ● STUART PHILIPS MISS SIXTY ● H O E S B A C NI ● S AC GA L M OR RE ● MILLER HARRIS ● E ?● PA Y TH ● KIEHL’S ZE SEF D I AP ● S O L● N UNCONDITIONAL ● ED J E ● A R A F IC ● ORLA KIELY IB SC E ● ER UR SE WE PEP ● ● M MURDOCK LONDON ● S Z AM UE ● AN FO U E ● JE HU N T OL ING S ● THE LOFT O D A X A OM ● E NI M C R ● D ● WOLSEY OR TO T H E ST A ● ALBAM ● KE LE ● BARACUTTA DI ES EL NI ● ● G-STAR RAW SCRIBBLER ● K ET GO CA NE LA M ST RE EN S● FRED PERRY ● ● EA RL HA AN AC ● ER M P T R S T ● ● PE FI D OW T M ● ● VI UL OU N REE T CA ND DA C L N AM ST TO S LA ● ● BA E A R LH DS ES S ER UR KI N B ● SASSOON GU M TE TH ● DUKE & DEXTER ● ● TI LARSSON CA AR T SE E M U . ● & JENNINGS ● RE HO E DR A ST OR ● BASE TE ● ST E ON O DEZEEN LT TH OE LD E SUPER STORE ● H ● DRESS CIRCLE A S H ● LONDON GRAPHIC CENTRE LS RA LAURA LEE ● POSTE MISTRESS U T JEWELLERY ● NA ● GUDRUN SJODEN TATTY DEVINE ● COVENT GARDEN ● MARKET ●

OROGOLD COSMETICS ● ● BREAKPOINT

NE

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’S IE ST RD R I T S YA C H H A L’ S Y ● EA IR N DA ●

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Timberyard

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PHOTO: © GILES CHRISTOPHER/MEDIA WISDOM

THE HAPPENSTANCE The Happenstance’s cosy interior is inspired by the Danish concept of hygge and there is also an exterior terrace if the weather is kind. Wherever you sit, the extensive menu promises satisfaction. Enjoy a hearty main course of sirloin steak or traditional fish and chips, perhaps rounded off with lemon tart or the tasty British cheese selection.

Café

The Happenstance, 10 Paternoster Square, London EC4M 7DX, +44 (0)20 7618 9520, drakeandmorgan.co.uk/ thehappenstance

66 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP WESTFIELD LONDON

WESTFIELD STRATFORD

Offering two floors and hundreds of stores, Westfield London is the perfect place to spend a day. Head to The Village where you’ll find the crème de la crème of international luxury brands, including Burberry, Prada and Gucci.

Westfield London, Ariel Way, London W12 7SL, +44 (0)20 3371 2300, uk.westfield.com

Located next to the Olympic Park, the sister centre to Westfield London boasts the best brands and shops, including British department store John Lewis, Apple and a host of watch brands, from Breitling and Omega to Swatch.

Westfield Stratford City, Montfichet Road, Olympic Park, London E20 1EJ, +44 (0)20 8221 7300, uk.westfield.com

OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-10pm Sunday: 12pm-6pm

KINGS CROSS ST.PANCRAS STATION PADDINGTON STATION

Westfield London SHEPHERD’S BUSH STATION

EUSTON

Westfield Stratford City STRATFORD INTERNATIONAL STRATFORD STATION

CHARING CROSS STATION LIVERPOOL STREET STATION WATERLOO STATION

OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-9pm Saturday: 9am-9pm Sunday: 12pm-6pm

HOW TO GET THERE To Westfield London

By London Underground There are four Underground stations located within walking distance of Westfield London: Shepherd’s Bush and White City on the Central line and Wood Lane and Shepherd’s Bush Market on the Hammersmith & City and Circle lines.

By taxi A taxi from central London takes 10 minutes.

Shopping Centre

To Westfield Stratford City

By London Underground The Central and Jubilee lines run a regular service from central London to Stratford station.

By train Trains run from Kings Cross-St Pancras and Liverpool Street to Stratford International station.

By taxi A taxi from central London takes 25 minutes.

London Underground Station

S H O P | 67

WESTFIELD LONDON SERVICES

tax refunds • On-site parking • Valet Hands-free shopping • Same-day hotel delivery •

WESTFIELD STRATFORD CITY SERVICES

PHOTOS: G-FONNE PHOTOGRAPHY

Currency exchange • Personal • Hands-freeshopping shopping • Same-day hotel delivery •

68 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP BICESTER VILLAGE Find your fabulous at Bicester Village, with more than 130 boutiques, including dunhill, Temperley London and Marni, savings of up to 60% and instant tax refunds.

Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6WD, +44 (0)1869 366266, bicestervillage.com

BICESTER NORTH BICESTER VILLAGE STATION Bicester Village

A41

M1

M40

A41

M1 M40

M25 M40

LONDON

HOW TO GET THERE By car Bicester Village is just 60 minutes from London by car. Exit the M40 motorway at Junction 9 and follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester. From Bicester the route is clearly signposted. Look for Bicester Village Outlet Centre. Parking is always free.

Train Station

By Shopping Express ® The Shopping Express ® coach service runs direct from central London to Bicester Village, with two daily* return services, collecting from selected London hotels. Adult return £28/child return £20 (ages 5-12). *excludes 25 December

Outlet Village

By train Travel from London Marylebone direct to Bicester Village Station in as little as 46 minutes, with two services an hour. Travel from Birmingham Moor Street or Birmingham Snow Hill to Bicester North, where a shuttle bus will take you to the Village.

S H O P | 69

SERVICES

MY PERFECT DAY

Arrive in style with Valet Parking or the Shopping Express ®; stay connected with free Wi-Fi; shop effortlessly with the Hands-free Shopping and Luggage Drop services; and earn rewards with your chosen frequent flyer programme. You can even claim your tax refund in the Village rather than at the airport and purchase more than 40 currencies.

SHOP’S COMMERCIAL EDITOR RUAIRIDH PRITCHARD DESCRIBES HOW HE WOULD SPEND A PERFECT DAY AT BICESTER VILLAGE

DON’T MISS ...

SHOPPING DAY EXPERIENCE This exclusive package includes: • Shopping Express® return tickets from central London • An additional 10% saving on the outlet price in boutiques • Hands-free Shopping – you do the shopping, we do the carrying • Lunch or dinner • A £50 Bicester Village Gift Card to spend in your favourite boutiques Treat yourself to the perfect day out for £99 per adult. To book, please visit BicesterVillage.com/shoppingpackage.

FABULOUS FOOD

PHOTO: (PROFILE) MICHAEL CHAPMAN

Bicester Village has a selection of delectable restaurants and cafés. Whether you’re looking for a speciality coffee, a gourmet breakfast or a three-course dinner, we’ve got just the place for you.

12pm Start your day at Marni, a favourite of fashion devotees for its experimentation in texture, colour blocking and asymmetry.

1pm L’Atelier showcases the finest luxury jewellery, watches and diamonds. Discover its selection of high-end brands.

2pm Recharge with the amazing flavours of the Far East at itsu, with 64 delicious, freshly prepared dishes to choose from.

3pm American brand Coach is synonymous with the ease of New York style.

4pm Visit dunhill, a definitive name in men’s luxury goods.

5pm farmshop restaurant & cafe, created by Soho House & Co for Bicester Village, serves local British and seasonal food.

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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

2. Claim

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

Spend a minimum of £30 and save up to 14% of the purchase price.

Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Office Details London Heathrow Terminals 1,2,3,4 & 5 London Gatwick North Terminal London Gatwick South Terminal International Currency Exchange, 339 Oxford Street, London W1C 2JB International Currency Exchange, Westfield London, Ariel Way, London W12 7GF No 1 Currency, City of London Information Centre, St Paul’s Churchyard, London EC4M 8BX Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road,

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

London SW1X 7XL

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TRANSLATIONS 中文翻译

36: The Rise Of The Flat 平底鞋的兴起 既 舒 适 又实用，更 和高跟鞋 一样充 满魅力 — — 平底 鞋引领 时尚 新 潮 流，Sally McIlhone带 您深入了解 无 论 是 限 量 版 运 动 鞋、凉 鞋 还 是 拖 鞋，在 过去的几 年中，平底 鞋 称 霸了 各大秀 场。如 今人们 在日常生活中愈 发 青 睐 更舒 适 耐 穿 的服 装，女 性 亦 将 “恨 天高 ” 抛 之 脑后，转而选 择优 雅 迷 人 的 平底 鞋 — — 婉 约 气 质有增 无 减，而且舒 适 度 大 大 增 加。伦敦 的 鞋 履 设 计师 是 平底 鞋 领 域 的先 行 者，从 乐福 鞋 到设 计 奇异 的 芭 蕾 便 鞋，他们 创造了许 多别 致而 不失实用性 的款 式，吸引着 无 数时尚达 人 的目光。 从 2008年开始，Charlotte Olympia的 创 始 人Charlotte Olympia Dellal创作了许 多 令人垂 涎 的人气 鞋 履。这位设 计师以 标 志性 的 猫 咪 鞋 ( Kitty)而闻名，芭 蕾 平底 鞋 的 脚 尖部 位 别出心裁 地 绣上了猫脸 和 尖 尖 的耳朵，平添 一 份 俏皮可爱。猫 咪 鞋 有多种颜 色 和 款 式，包括 无 后跟 拖 鞋、凉 鞋 和 帆 布便 鞋，图案 背景 从 豹 纹印 花 到米字 旗多种多样。令人 难 以想 象的 是，如 此 时尚前卫 的 鞋 子， 灵 感竟然 来源于 阿加 莎 •克 里 斯 蒂于 1959年出版 的小说《鸽 群中的猫 》。 猫 咪 拖 鞋 在 2011年 的 To Die For系 列中初次亮 相，这个主 题 的大 获 成 功 令 Dellal倍感 惊 喜。“ 我们完 全没有 料 到它会如此受 欢 迎。”她 在 Luxury London的采访中这 样说 道；如 今， 猫 咪 鞋 风 头不 减，已然 成 为 Encore 系列的 一 部 分。如果 要从Charlotte Olympia的 缤 纷 作品中选 出一 个必

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买 款 式，那 么非 猫 咪 鞋 莫 属。 对平底 鞋 有定制 要求的顾客不 妨 选 择 Nicholas Kirkwood。品牌 旗 下的 Beya平底 鞋 备 受名流 的 青 睐，超 模 Gigi Hadid亦是其 拥 趸。近 期，Kirkwood在 官网上 推 出了个 性 化 服 务，顾客可以定制自己的 Beya乐 福 鞋 或 拖 鞋。 英国品牌 Russell & Bromley在 新邦 德 街（ New Bond Street）拥有 一家 旗 舰 店，店内各 色 奢 华 鞋 履令人 目不 暇 接，更 展现了品牌 悠久 的历史 底 蕴。乐福 鞋 等经典款 式 与七分西 装 裤 搭配，可完 美 塑 造 潇 洒干 练 的 形 象；与中 裙 和开司米 套 衫 组合，则 更 显 帅 气 迷 人。最 近 几个季度，该品 牌 的 平底 鞋 非常 畅 销，供不应 求。“ 我们注 意 到，以往 主导 时尚潮 流 的高 跟鞋 逐 渐 退 居 幕后，而中低 跟 和 平底 鞋 则越 来越 流行。”品牌 的公 关 总监 Stefanie Hutton表 示，“运 动 潮 流 极 大 地 影 响了女 性 对 鞋 履 的 选 择，因此 我们不 难 看 到她们 更倾向于 兼 顾 舒 适 脚 感 和时尚造 型 的 鞋 子。”

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2017/ 18年 秋冬系列完 美诠 释了 舒 适 和时尚的结 合，饰 有绒 带的 酒 红 色芭 蕾 平底 鞋、绣 有 粉 色 与金 色 花 朵 的红色 拖 鞋、平跟 运 动 鞋 和脚 尖 撒 有宝石的黑色 厚重 短 靴华丽亮 相，当 然 也 少不了饰 有流 苏 与马 衔扣的乐 福 鞋，各种颜 色 和 设 计风 格 供 人 挑 选。“我们的经典款 式是中性 乐福 鞋， 兜 兜 转 转 一 个 轮回，它 如 今又 重 新 流行了起 来。” Hutton解 释 道，“ 我们 换 上了当季 的流行 色 彩，试 验了织锦 和 镶 缀 等新 面 料，与此同时保 持了简 约之美。”为了追求 简约，Russell & Bromley甚至 还让古董 级 款 式 焕 发 新生。“由于需 求高涨，我们 重 新 推 出 了经典 的 Brewster马 衔扣乐福 鞋，反 响 非常 好。” Hutton说 道。 Kurt Geiger创意 总监 Rebecca Farrar- Hockley认 为，平底 鞋 之 所 以畅 销，是因为 适合日常 穿 着。“过去 几个季度，平底 鞋 人气 爆 棚，摇 身变 成日常必 备单品，可 随性 搭配平日着 装。” Farrar- Hockley特 别 指出，品 牌 的 “无 后跟 拖 鞋 ”是 2017春夏季人气

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款 式 之一。这 股 潮 流 还 将 继 续，而 至 于 新 一 季，她 表 示：“ 我们为多 款平底 鞋 加 上了一些点 缀，从日常 穿 搭到晚 宴 装 扮 均可应 对自如。”从饰 有 精 美 绑 带的天鹅 绒 Kingly玛丽 珍平底 鞋， 到 Carvela黑 金休闲拖，丰富 款 式 助 您 轻松应 对会 议、晚 宴 等 多种 场 合。 Kurt Geiger的 秘诀在于，鼓 励 设 计师 创作 具 有个人 风 格 的 鞋 履。“［ 我们］设 计 的大多 数作品源于团队 成 员为自己创作 鞋 子 的意 愿。” FarrarHockley解 释 道。得 益于品味出众、 紧跟 潮 流 的 设 计 团队，Kurt Geiger 的 最 新系列不乏令人一见倾 心的 平 底 鞋 款 式，运 动 鞋、拖 鞋、乐福 鞋 一 应俱 全。“ 我们 的 许 多脱销 平底 鞋 款 式 — —如 Lamar运 动 鞋 和 KG水 獭 无 后跟 拖 鞋 — — 在 未 来 季度中还 将 反 复出现，充分展现了热 销 款 式 的无 限 魅力。” Farrar- Hockley表 示。 秋冬 季 来临，各 路风 格 也 卷土 重 来，但平底 鞋 的风 头却 有增 无减 。我 们 的双 脚应该为了这份 优 雅 和 舒 适 道 声感 谢。

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42: The Future Of Fragrance 香氛的未来 创意 卓 绝 的 伦敦 调 香师 引领 前所 未 有 的小众 风 潮，Joanna McGinn为 您 聚焦个中翘 楚 如日中天的 香 氛 界正在 经 历 着大变 动，而这一 切 和 香奈儿 5号没有任 何 关系。在 超 级 品牌 称 霸多年 之后，香 氛 界 的 格局已悄然 改变，一 批 后起 之 秀异 军突 起，挑 战 业界 权 威 。 这 场 变 革要从 20年 前说 起。当 时，出身巴 黎 的 香 氛 大师 Frédéric Malle推 出了 Editions de Parfums， 挑 选嗅觉一 流 的闻 香师以他们自己 的名义创作 香 氛，从而让 人们关注 的 焦 点 重回香 氛 本身，而 不是被 大品牌

的高调 营 销 抢 去风 头。然而，直 到近 年，这一 理 念 才真正大 行其道。这 股 潮 流 的最前 沿有 Perfumer H和 4160 Tuesdays等 在 伦敦 生 产的品牌，有 蘑 菇 和 热 砂 等 怪 诞 香 味，还 有 2017 年夏季 在 萨 默 塞 特宫（ Somerset House ）举办 的嗅觉 主 题 展览。 根 据 Premium Beauty News（ 前 沿 美容 播 报）的 报 道，得 益于互 联 网销 售的 “长尾 效 应 ”，2016年 推 出的 2000款 新香 氛中，将近 一 半 都 是 小 众品牌。小众品牌自然是 创意 十足， 但 随 着 越 来越多的 选 择涌 现 在 顾客 面 前，人们 极有 可能产生审 美 疲 劳。 伦敦 许 多 香 氛专家 对此出谋 划 策：不 仅要 转 变 人们 对 香 氛的 认识，也 要 潜 移 默化 地 改变 人们 的消费习惯。 调 香师 和 香 味 预测 师 Emmanuelle Moeglin是其中 一 位 先 行 者。她 在 2015年创立了 Experimental Perfume Club（实 验 香 氛）俱 乐 部，旨在 揭 秘 香水制作 流 程，鼓 励人们 打开嗅觉。“生活在 城 市 里 的人们已 经 厌 倦了小众品牌，他们 想 更 进 一 步。”她 解 释 道，“他们 希望 窥 探 香水 的 秘 密。人们 都 想创造 独 一 无 二的定制香水，而产品的 切肤 体 验 同样至 关 重要。” 对 香 味 敏 感、好 奇的人都应该 去 Moeglin的 “微 型实 验 室 ” 看 一 看， 它 就 隐匿 于时 髦 人 士汇 集 的百老汇 集市（ Broadway Market）后面的小 巷中。这 家店铺 和 伦敦西 部 的各大香 氛专卖店 有 着 天 差地 别；Moeglin 把它 描 述为“一 个 开放 式 的 香 氛 实 验 室— — 专为香 氛而生”。您可以参加 体 验 课 程，学习如 何制作一 款 独 一 无 二的 香 氛，可以请定制顾问 调制 一 瓶 心 仪 的 香水，还 可以参加每月两次 的 开放 活 动，尽情 玩 转 各种 气 味。“一 些妙 趣 横 生 的 香 氛 就 是在 人们 的 试 验中应 运而生，你可以得到像 泰国罗 勒 咖 喱 这 样 的新 奇 味 道。” Moeglin 津 津乐 道。在 她 看来，她 的商业模 式

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向来 是“ 打造 一 个 创意 人 士的 社 区， 吸引人们 保 持联 系，回来学习更多知 识。” 如 今，她 的 创意 空间有了一大 批 拥 趸，采用众 筹的形式 运作 — — 与常 见 的公司化 运作 模 式 截然 不同。“实 验 室自然而然 发 展 和 壮 大，我 想保 持 下去。” Moeglin坚 定 地说 道。 Keren Bester是 另一 位 身 在 伦敦 东部 的 调 香师。她 经 营 着 Chemical Poetry Club（如诗 化 学） 俱 乐 部，提 供 香水订阅服 务，每月向 顾客寄 送 3份 来自不同手工调 香师的 小 样。Bester从数不胜 数 的 调 香师中 甄 选 出真正具 有创新 精神的独 立调 香师，寻 找 无 惧引起争议 的 “ 极 端品 牌 ”。她 的 本 意是“展现 独 立调 香师的 非凡创造 才华，促 进在 线讨 论，创造 一 个香水品鉴 俱 乐 部。如果人们 能 够 谱写出生活 的动人 乐章，那 么为什么 不 积 极 创造香 气 的声道 呢？这 就 是 我创建 Chemical Poetry Club俱 乐 部 的 初 衷。” Bester也同意 顾客 的需 求 正在 发 生变化。“ 我 认 为，人们 对 独 特 个 性 的与日俱 增 的 追求实质 上 是 对真 实性 的向往。各 个 领 域 都 刮起了一股 品鉴 风，咖 啡、杜松 子酒、红 酒、巧 克力……为什么不加 上香水呢？”她 问道，“ 我们 将 帮助客人训 练嗅觉， 辨 别他们 喜 欢 和不 喜 欢 的气 味以 及 原因。” 她 的目标 是 把 香 氛 提 升到 艺 术 的层面。“分 解开 来，香 氛 就 犹 如 一首 化 学 诗 歌。”她 娓 娓 道 来，“ 我 的 想法 是 打造 一 个社 区，品鉴 市面上 最 美 妙 迷 人 的 化 学配 方，从而共同创造 扣人 心 弦 的 香 氛诗 歌。” 与此同时，传 统品牌 也 在不 断 增 加 筹 码，寻 找 新方 法 来满足 人们 对 独 特 性 的旺盛 需 求。位于梅 费尔 地 区 的 香水制造商 Creed推 出了刻字服 务，顾客可以一 边品尝 香 槟，一 边等 待自己的 姓名刻在 香水瓶 上。经典 的 英 伦品牌 Penhaligon’ s则 新 推 出了

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奢 华 无比 的 Alberto Morillas定制香 水— —支付昂贵 的 35000英 镑，这位 世界知名的 调 香大师 就 将为 您 创作 一 款 举 世 无 双 的 香 氛，并将 其 盛 放 于手工定制的 香水瓶中：整 个 过 程 非 常 私密 化，长 达 数月之久。无 论 是 奢 华至极 的高级香 氛，还 是 价 格相 对 适 中的款 式，个 性 化 香水似乎已 在 伦敦 生 根 发 芽。

70: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购 物区中的 30万多 家商店消费时，环 球 蓝 联（ Global Blue）购 物 退 税 服 务（ Tax Free Shopping）为 您 节省购 物 开 销。 每 年 有两千六百多万名游 客通 过 环 球 蓝 联（ Global Blue）获得 购 物 退 税， 您 怎能 错 过？您 要 做 的只是 寻 找 蓝 星 标 志 或 者问询商家是 否提 供环 球蓝联 （ Global Blue）服 务，然 后 遵 循 我们 简单 的退 税 过 程：

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taxfree@ globalblue. com + 421 232 111 111 最 低消费 30英 镑即 可 节省高达 14%的 商品购买 价。请注 意：最 终退 款 将 包 含 增 值 税 总 额，但 是 要 扣 除 管 理手 续 费。部 分机 场 还 将以 退 税申请 表 为 单位收取 现 金 退 税手 续 费。

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 36: The Rise Of The Flat С небес на землю Комфортные и практичные туфли на плоской подошве покоряют новые высоты модной индустрии, – рассказывает Салли Макилхуон Последние несколько сезонов обувь без каблуков доминировала на модных подиумах: от кроссовок до сандалий и туфель без задника. В стремлении к практичной обуви женщины все реже отдают предпочтение высоким каблукам, выбирая стильную обувь на плоской подошве, которая смотрится не менее женственно, однако гораздо удобнее в носке. Лондонские дизайнеры обуви являются пионерами в этой области, создавая шикарные и в то же время практичные вещи: от лоферов до причудливых балеток, не теряющих популярность у поклонников моды. Шарлотта Олимпия Деллал, основатель бренда Charlotte Olympia, выпускает обувь с 2008 года. Лучше всего дизайнера знают благодаря популярной модели балеток Kitty с вышивкой в виде кошачьей морды и заостренных ушек. Балетки Kitty доступны в различных фасонах, включая модель без задников, для пляжа и в виде эспадрилей, а также в различных цветовых вариантах: от леопарда до британского флага. Сложно поверить, что вдохновением для globalblue.ru

создания этих ультрасовременных туфель послужил роман Агаты Кристи «Кошка среди голубей», изданный в 1959 году. Туфли Kitty впервые появились в коллекции 2011 года под названием «To Die For» («Умереть за»), и для Деллал стало большим сюрпризом популярность «кошачьего» узора. «Я никак не ожидала такого резонанса», – заявила дизайнер в интервью Luxury London. Однако модель Kitty остается столь же популярной сколь и прежде, и сегодня является частью коллекции Encore. Если и выбирать чтолибо из очаровательной серии обуви Charlotte Olympia, то это непременно должны быть туфли Kitty. Для тех, кто предпочитает обувь, сделанную на заказ, на помощь приходит Nicholas Kirkwood. Фирменные туфли Beya на плоской подошве можно заметить у многих знаменитостей,

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включая супермодель Джиджи Хадид, а недавно бренд предложил на своем сайте новую услугу, благодаря которой можно самому составить дизайн лоферов или туфель Beya.

Russell & Bromley – британский бренд с флагманом на New Bond Street и легендарной историей, отраженной в коллекциях роскошной обуви. Популярные лоферы бренда будут идеально смотреться с укороченными брюками или придадут мальчишеский шарм юбке с кашемировым джемпером. Последние сезоны туфли бренда на плоской подошве буквально расхватывают. «Мы наблюдаем заметный спад популярности высоких каблуков, которым предпочитают средние каблуки и плоскую подошву, – говорит Стефани Хаттон, главный PRменеджер бренда. – Спортивный тренд сильно повлиял на выбор обуви, который делают женщины. В последнее время они все больше предпочитают комфорт и стиль одновременно». В сезоне осень-зима 2017/18

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в результате обязательства сочетать комфорт и стильный дизайн компания представила несколько новых моделей. Ими стали: бордовые балетки с бархатными лентами; красные тапочки, вышитые розовыми и золотыми цветочными узорами; кроссовки на платформе; черные полуботинки, украшенные цветными камнями; и, наконец, лоферы с кисточками в различных цветовых вариациях. «Наше наследие отражено в мальчишеских лоферах, а традиционный стиль снова в тренде, – поясняет Хаттон. – Каждый сезон мы обновляем модельный ряд, экспериментируя с цветовой гаммой и новыми текстурами, включая парчу и декоративные украшения, но в итоге стремимся к простоте». Для этого Russell & Bromley даже оживили свои архивы. «В связи с повышенным спросом мы вернули нашу классическую модель лоферов Brewster»,– отмечает Хаттон. Ребекка Фаррар-Хокли, креативный директор Kurt Geiger, считает, что секрет популярности туфель без каблуков кроется в том, что их можно носить каждый день. По словам ФаррарХокли, фирменные «тапочки без задников» стали одной из самых популярных моделей в сезоне весна-лето 2017, и эта тенденция должна продолжиться. «В предстоящем сезоне, – говорит она, – большинство наших моделей на плоской подошве получили обновление в виде

PHOTO: EXPERIMENTAL PERFUME CLUB

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дополнительных украшений, что переносит их из разряда повседневной обуви в разряд вечерней». От бархатных туфель в стиле Mary Jane с декоративным ремешком до черных тапочек Carvela и золотых Lounge: выбор фасонов огромен, и вы сможете легко найти модель как для деловой встречи, так и для вечернего ужина и не только. Секрет Kurt Geiger заключается в том, чтобы побудить дизайнеров вкладывать в создаваемую ими обувь частичку своей души. «Большинство обуви, которую мы выпускаем, создано по принципу "делай так, словно делаешь для себя"», – поясняет Фаррар-Хокли. Дизайнеры бренда обладают великолепным чувством стиля и следят за актуальными тенденциями моды, поэтому коллекции Kurt Geiger включают множество превосходных моделей на плоской подошве, включая кроссовки, тапочки и лоферы. «Многие популярные модели, например, кроссовки Lamar и туфли без задников Otter будут перевыпущены в следующем сезоне, доказывая, что наши сезонные хиты не утрачивают своей привлекательности», – говорит Фаррар-Хокли. С таким количеством фасонов, ожидающих повторного выпуска в осенне-зимнем сезоне, похоже, что тенденция на плоскую подошву не собирается угасать. Ну а лишний комфорт и элегантность нашим ногам никогда не помешают.

42: The Future Of Fragrance Будущее парфюмерии Креативные парфюмеры Лондона выводят индустрию на новый уровень. Джоанна Макджинн рассказывает о самых интересных проектах Для парфюмерии наступил звездный час. В воздухе запахло переменами и дело тут далеко не в Chanel No 5. После пяти лет господства крупных брендов конъюнктура рынка начала меняться, и виной тому – новое поколение парфюмерных бунтарей. Революция началась еще 20 лет назад, когда парижский гуру парфюмерии Фредерик Маль дал начало проекту Editions de Parfums, отобрав лучших специалистов для создания ароматов под собственными именами. Таким образом все внимание будет сосредоточено на парфюме,

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нежели на маркетинговом ореоле знаменитого бренда. Популярность на этот тренд пришла только недавно. Список лидеров возглавили лондонские бренды Perfumer H и 4160 Tuesdays, а также необычные ароматы, такие как «грибной» и «горячий песок», а летняя выставка в Somerset House была посвящена всему, что связано с запахами. Согласно данным издания Premium Beauty News, в прошлом году на нишевые бренды пришлась почти половина всех 2000 новых ароматов, выпущенных в 2016 году. Но, несмотря на такую креативность, нишевая индустрия может оказаться под угрозой спада из-за чрезмерного предложения. В ответ ряд лондонских парфюмеров решили изменить наше представление о парфюме и том, как его носить. Одним из таких парфюмерных провокаторов выступил специалист в области ароматов Эммануэль Моглин, открывшая в 2015 году Experimental Perfume Club, задачей которого стало пробуждение в людях чувства обоняния и развенчивание мифов о процессе создания духов. «Жители городов уже подустали от нишевых брендов и находятся в ожидании чего-то нового, – говорит она. – Они хотят заглянуть за кулисы. И дело не только в новых ощущениях, но и в возможности самому поучаствовать в создании чего-то уникального». globalblue.ru

Все, кто увлекается парфюмерией, просто обязаны посетить мини-лабораторию Моглин, спрятанную на тихой улочке рядом с популярным среди хипстеров месте Broadway Market. Это место расположено вдалеке от парфюмерных салонов западного Лондона; по словам Моглин, это «лаборатория свободного доступа, всецело посвященная ароматам». Здесь проводятся мастер-классы по созданию уникальных парфюмов, а также индивидуальные консультации, позволяющие определить любимый запах. Можно просто записаться на воркшоп, проводящийся два раза в месяц и вдоволь поэкспериментировать. «Наиболее интересные сочетания получаются, когда люди экспериментируют и создают, например, нечто напоминающее тайское карри с базиликом», – делится Моглин. Ее бизнес-модель всегда полагалась на «сообщество творцов»: «Люди приходят снова и снова, чтобы узнать что-то новое, мы поддерживаем постоянную связь». В отличие от обычных корпоративных моделей проект Моглин существует за счет большого числа поклонников. «У нашего проекта естественное развитие, и меня это устраивает», – говорит Моглин. Керен Бестер, еще один лондонский парфюмер, управляет проектом Chemical Poetry Club. Все участники получают по три разных экземпляра парфюмов, которые выпускаются мастерами раз в месяц. Бестер изучает

PHOTO: ANDREW MEREDITH

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коллекции многочисленных независимых парфюмеров, отбирая по-настоящему инновационные бренды, которые не боятся бросить вызов обыденному. Идея, по ее словам, заключается в том, чтобы «продемонстрировать публике наиболее талантливые творения независимых парфюмеров и поощрить онлайн-дискуссии среди ценителей парфюмерии. Если каждый из нас может представить саундтрек к своей жизни, почему бы нам не создать собственный аромат? Именно для этого существует Chemical Poetry Club». Бестер согласна, что требования клиентов меняются. «Мне кажется, что растущее стремление людей ко всему уникальному подразумевает стремление к аутентичному. Появляются целые сообщества знатоков в области кофе, джина, вина, шоколада… так почему бы не создать общество ценителей парфюма? – спрашивает она. – Мы поможем клиентам

улучшить обоняние, чтобы они могли лучше понимать, что им нравится, а что нет и почему». Ее задача возвысить парфюмерное дело до уровня искусства. «Если разобраться, то по сути парфюм – это химическая поэма, – говорит она. – Смысл в том, чтобы создать сообщество людей, которые смогут вносить вклад в эту поэзию, экспериментируя с самыми провокационными и изумительными запахами». Многие знаменитые бренды также пытаются подстроиться под новые правила игры, стараясь найти новые способы удовлетворить растущую потребность к уникальности. Парфюмерный бренд Creed из лондонского района Mayfair теперь предлагает услугу гравировки; сотрудники салона нанесут гравировку на купленный вами флакон, а вы тем временем можете отдохнуть за бокалом шампанского. Британский парфюмерный дом Penhaligon’s недавно предложил своим покупателям услугу создания парфюма на заказ при помощи специалиста Альберто Морилласа. За 35 000 фунтов стерлингов этот известный на весь мир парфюмер создаст для вас уникальный аромат, который упакуют в оригинальный флакон: процесс глубоко индивидуальный и на него может уйти несколько месяцев. Начиная от самых роскошных и заканчивая очень доступными, похоже, что персонализированные духи станут неотъемлемой частью нашей жизни.

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70: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум 30 £ и сэкономьте до 14% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. globalblue.com

‫ يبتكر لك‬،‫ ألف جنيه اسرتليني‬35 ‫لقاء مبلغ‬ ‫خبري العطور العاملي الشهرة عطرا ً فريدا ً من‬ ‫نوعه معبّأً يف زجاجة مص ّممة بحسب الطلب‬ ‫ ميكن أن‬.‫وتستغرق هذه العمليّة عدّة شهور‬ ‫نقول إ ّن العطور املركّبة بحسب الطلب قد‬ ‫بغض النظر إن كانت فاخرة‬ ّ ،‫ُوجدت لتبقى‬ .‫أو عاديّة‬ When You Shop The World, :70 Shop Tax Free ‫ تس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة‬،‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل‬

‫ خدمة‬Global Blue ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو‬ Tax Free ‫التس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة‬ 300,000 ‫لتدّخر املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكرث من‬ .‫متجر يف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العامل‬ ‫ مليون مسافر الذين‬26 ‫فل َم ال تنض ّم إىل الـ‬ ‫يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الرضيبة من خالل‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك‬ ّ Global Blue ‫غلوبل بلو‬ ‫إال أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن‬ ‫ وتتبع خطواتنا‬Global Blue ‫غلوبل بلو‬ .‫السهلة‬ ‫ تس ّوق‬.1 ‫ أطلب الحصول عىل طلب‬،‫أينام تس ّوقت‬ Global ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو‬ ‫اسرتداد الرضيبة‬ ّ .‫ وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصاالت‬Blue ‫ أطلب‬.2 ‫ أقصد مكتب‬،‫يف طريق العودة إىل وطنك‬ ‫الجامرك عند نقطة املغادرة لتتم املصادقة عىل‬ ‫إيصاالتك قبل قبض االسرتداد من أحد مكاتب‬ .‫الخاصة بنا‬ ‫االسرتداد‬ ّ :‫لالت ّصال‬

taxfree@globalblue.com

111 111 232 +421 14% ‫ وادّخر حتّى‬£30 ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدىن قدره‬ ‫ يشمل مبلغ االسرتداد‬.‫من مثن مشرتياتك‬ ‫النهايئ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الرضيبة‬ ‫ يف بعض‬.‫عىل القيمة املضافة ناقص رسم إداري‬ ‫ يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عىل كل‬،‫املطارات‬ ‫طلب اسرتداد رضيبة يف حال رغبت بالحصول‬ .‫عىل اسرتداد فوري نقدي‬

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‫‪PHOTO: ANDREW MEREDITH‬‬

‫العالمات الصغرية النطاق وباتوا يبحثون عن‬ ‫يشء جديد‪ .‬يريدون اسرتاق النظر إىل ما يجري‬ ‫خلف الستار‪ .‬إنّها مسألة تجربة بح ّد ذاتها بقدر‬ ‫ما هي عمل ّية ابتكار يشء بحسب الطلب وفريد‬ ‫من نوعه‪".‬‬ ‫ال ب ّد ألصحاب األنوف الذك ّية والنفوس‬ ‫الفضوليّة من زيارة مخترب ‪ Moeglin‬املصغّر‬ ‫الواقع يف أحد الشوارع الفرعيّة خلف شارع‬ ‫‪ Broadway Market‬الشهري‪ .‬يختلف‬ ‫املتجر عن محالت العطور غرب لندن اختالفاً‬ ‫تا ّماً وتصفه ‪ Moeglin‬مبخترب العطور امل ُتاح‬ ‫للجميع واملك ّرس للسوائل"‪ .‬هنا ميكنك حضور‬ ‫ورشة عمل لتعلّم طريقة صنع عط ٍر فريد أو‬ ‫الحصول عىل استشارة شخص ّية لتعبئة الرائحة‬ ‫بكل بساطة‪ ،‬حضور جلسات‬ ‫املفضّ لة لديك أو ّ‬ ‫املخترب املفتوح التي تُنظّم م ّرتني يف الشهر‬ ‫و"اللّعب" بحريّة‪ .‬تضيف ‪" :Moeglin‬ت ُبتَكر‬ ‫بعض أجمل العطور من خالل االختبارات التي‬ ‫يقوم بها الناس فتحصل عىل روائح خارجة عن‬ ‫املألوف عىل سبيل الكاري التايلندي بالحبق"‪.‬‬ ‫وترشح أنّه لطاملا قام عملها عىل "مجموعة‬ ‫من املبتكرين بحيث يعود الناس إلينا ليتعلموا‬ ‫املزيد وليبقوا عىل تواصل‪ ".‬جذب عملها‬ ‫كثريين وبات املخترب مم ّوالً جامعيّاً‪ ،‬عىل عكس‬ ‫املؤسسات العاديّة‪ .‬وتشري قائلة‪" :‬تط ّور عميل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بشكلٍ عضوي وأو ّد البقاء عىل هذا املسار‪".‬‬ ‫‪ Keren Bester‬صانعة عطور أخرى من‬ ‫رشق لندن‪ ،‬تدير نادي ‪Chemical Poetry‬‬ ‫‪ Club‬الذي يرسل ملشرتكيه ثالث عيّنات من‬ ‫كل شهر‪ .‬تتفقّد ‪Bester‬‬ ‫مص ّنع حريف مختلف ّ‬ ‫مجموعة العالمات التجاريّة املستقلّة وتختار‬ ‫حق وتلك "الجاذبة"‬ ‫العالمات الخالقة عن ّ‬

‫عىل ح ّد قولها‪ ،‬التي ال تخجل من إثارة ر ّد‬ ‫فعل‪ .‬تتمثّل الفكرة بتسليط الضوء عىل القدرة‬ ‫االبتكاريّة االستثنائيّة التي يتمتّع بها صانعو‬ ‫العطور املستقلّون وتشجيع النقاش عرب اإلنرتنت‬ ‫لخلق نا ٍد يقدّر العطور‪ .‬فلو كان من املمكن أن‬ ‫نتخ ّيل موسيقى ترافق حياتنا‪ ،‬أال يجدر بنا أن‬ ‫نصنع رائحة تالزمنا؟ هذا ما أريد تحقيقه من‬ ‫خالل ‪".Chemical Poetry Club‬‬ ‫تغري طلبات الزبائن‪.‬‬ ‫تتحدّث ‪ Bester‬عن ّ‬ ‫تقول يف هذا السياق‪" :‬أعتقد أ ّن لدى الناس‬ ‫اليوم رغبة متزايدة بالتصاميم الفريدة وكذلك‬ ‫باألشياء األصيلة‪ .‬ميكن الحديث عن من ّو الخربة‬ ‫املتمكّنة يف عدّة مجاالت؛ القهوة والنبيذ‬ ‫والشوكوالتة‪ ...‬فل َم ليس العطور أيضاً؟ سنساعد‬ ‫زبائننا عىل زيادة معرفة أنوفهم واكتشاف ماذا‬ ‫يحبّون وماذا ال يحبّون وملاذا‪".‬‬ ‫تتمثّل مه ّمتها باالرتقاء بالعطور إىل مستوى‬ ‫الفنون‪ .‬تعلّق ‪ Bester‬قائلة‪" :‬إن فككت‬ ‫العطور‪ ،‬تجد أنّها ِشع ٌر كيميايئ‪ .‬نهدف إىل‬ ‫تشكيل مجموعة قادرة عىل املساهمة يف نسج‬ ‫هذا الشعر من خالل اختبار بعض أكرث عنارص‬ ‫الكيمياء إثار ًة وروعةً‪".‬‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫صعيد آخر‪ ،‬تعمل العالمات التجاريّة‬ ‫عىل‬ ‫العريقة عىل تعزيز قدراتها أيضاً‪ ،‬من خالل‬ ‫البحث عن طرق لتلبية الطلب املتزايد عىل‬ ‫الفرادة‪ .‬يقدّم دار صناعة العطور ‪ Creed‬يف‬ ‫‪ Mayfair‬خدمة حفر حروف اإلسم األوىل‬ ‫عىل زجاجة العطر؛ ويحتيس الزبائن كأساً من‬ ‫الشمبانيا بانتظار إنجازها‪.‬‬ ‫يف السياق نفسه‪ ،‬أطلق الدار الربيطاين‬ ‫الذائع الصيت ‪ Penhaligon‬ابتكاره الفائق‬ ‫الفخامة ‪.Bespoke by Alberto Morillas‬‬

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‫‪The Future Of Fragrance :42‬‬ ‫مستقبل العطور‬

‫‪ Bromley‬حتّى املوديالت القدمية‪ .‬تقول‬ ‫‪ Hutton‬يف هذا الصدد‪" :‬أعدنا تصنيع حذاء‬ ‫‪ Brewster‬الكالسييك املزخرف بشكيمة نظرا ً‬ ‫لزيادة الطلب عليه‪".‬‬ ‫تُعزي ‪،Rebecca Farrar-Hockley‬‬ ‫املديرة االبتكاريّة لـ ‪ Kurt Geiger‬سبب رواج‬ ‫أحذية الكعب املنخفض إىل إمكان ّية انتعالها‬ ‫كل يوم‪" .‬راج الكعب املنخفض بشكلٍ كبري يف‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كل يوم‬ ‫املواسم األخرية وبات عنرصا ً ال ب ّد منه ّ‬ ‫ليك ّمل األسلوب العميل‪ ".‬تشري ‪Farrar-‬‬ ‫‪ Hockley‬إىل أ ّن "األخفاف املكشوفة هي أحد‬ ‫أشهر املوديالت لربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ 2017‬من العالمة‬ ‫وستبقى‪ .‬تضيف أنّه للموسم القادم "ع ّززنا‬ ‫الكثري من أحذية الكعب املنخفض لدينا بعنارص‬ ‫لتغريي أسلوبك من اليومي إىل املناسب‬ ‫زخرف ّية ّ‬ ‫لألمسيات‪ ".‬بالتايل‪ ،‬كثرية هي املوديالت التي‬ ‫تنقلك من إجتامع إىل حفل عشاء وأكرث‪ ،‬عىل‬ ‫سبيل حذاء ‪ Mary Jane‬املخميل الفاخر ذي‬ ‫وخف ‪ Carvela‬األسود والذهبي‪.‬‬ ‫رباط مزخرف ّ‬ ‫رس ‪ Kurt Geiger‬يف تشجيع‬ ‫يكمن ّ‬ ‫خاصة‬ ‫املص ّممني عىل ابتكار أحذية بلمس ٍة ّ‬ ‫بهم‪ .‬ترشح ‪ Farrar-Hockley‬قائلة‪" :‬غالبيّة‬ ‫املنتجات املبتكرة هنا قامئة عىل رغبة الفريق‬ ‫بابتكار أحذية ميكنهم ارتداءها بأنفسهم‪ ".‬بفضل‬ ‫فريق تصميم متيقّظ يهت ّم بالذوق واملوضة يف‬ ‫آنٍ واحد‪ ،‬تجدين يف مجموعة ‪Kurt Geiger‬‬ ‫بغض‬ ‫األخرية أحذية جميلة منخفضة الكعب‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫خف‬ ‫النظر إن كنت تبحثني عن حذا ٍء ريايض أو ّ‬ ‫أو حذاء مريح‪ .‬تقول ‪ Farrar-Hockley‬يف‬ ‫هذا السياق‪" :‬للموسم القادم‪ ،‬ك ّررنا الكثري من‬ ‫األحذية املنخفضة الكعب التي نفدت بالكامل‪،‬‬ ‫وخف ‪،Otter‬‬ ‫مثل الحذاء الريايض ‪ّ Lamar‬‬ ‫وهذا خري دليل عىل احتفاظ أفضل املوديالت‬ ‫املوسم ّية بتألّقها‪".‬‬ ‫نظرا ً لعودة الكثري من املوديالت ملوسم‬ ‫الخريف‪/‬الشتاء‪ ،‬ال يبدو أ ّن موضة الكعب‬ ‫املنخفض ستزول‪ .‬فأقدامنا ممت ّنة ملا تتمتّع به‬ ‫هذه األحذية من أناقة وما توفّره من راحة‪.‬‬

‫يرتقي عطّارو لندن الخالقون بالعالمات‬ ‫التجاريّة الصغرية النطاق إىل مستوى جديد‪.‬‬ ‫تسلّط ‪ Joanna McGinn‬الضوء عىل بعض‬ ‫أفضل األسامء يف هذا املجال‬ ‫تشهد العطور تح ّوالً جوهريّاً‪ .‬تعبق األجواء‬ ‫برائحة التغيري وال عالقة لعطر ‪Chanel 5‬‬ ‫بأي شكل من األشكال‪ .‬بعد سيطرة‬ ‫بذلك ّ‬ ‫العالمات التجاريّة الكربى عىل مجال العطور‬ ‫لسنوات‪ ،‬تبدّلت معامله وقامت مجموعة ثائرة‬ ‫من الخرباء بالخروج عن املألوف‪.‬‬ ‫بدأت الثورة منذ حوايل العرشين سنة‬ ‫عندما أطلق سيّد العطور الفرنسيّة ‪Frédéric‬‬ ‫‪ Malle‬ابتكاره الجديد ‪Editions de‬‬ ‫‪ Parfums‬مختارا ً "أنوفاً" ذكيّة لصناعة عطور‬ ‫بأسامئهم وبالتايل تسليط الضوء مجدّدا ً عىل‬ ‫العطر بدالً من حملة التسويق التي تالزم‬ ‫األسامء الكربى‪ .‬لكن مل يربز ذلك إال مؤ ّخرا ً‪.‬‬ ‫نذكر يف طليعتها العالمات املعبّأة يف لندن عىل‬ ‫سبيل ‪ Perfumer H‬و‪Tuesdays 4160‬‬ ‫والروائح الغريبة كالفطر والرمال الساخنة‬ ‫ومعرض صيف ‪ 2017‬يف مركز ‪Somerset‬‬ ‫بحاسة الش ّم‪.‬‬ ‫املختص ّ‬ ‫‪House‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بكل ما له عالقة ّ‬ ‫ابتكرت العالمات التجاريّة الصغرية‬ ‫النطاق حوايل نصف العطور الجديدة التي‬ ‫ناهز عددها األلفني سنة ‪ ،2016‬وذلك نتيجة‬ ‫"أثر الذيل الطويل" الذي أحدثته عمليّات‬ ‫كل‬ ‫البيع عرب اإلنرتنت‪ .‬لكن عىل الرغم من ّ‬ ‫هذا اإلبداع‪ ،‬مث ّة تخ ّوف من النفور من هذه‬ ‫العالمات الصغرية نظرا ً لكرثة الخيارات املتاحة‬ ‫أمام الزبون‪ .‬يركّز عىل هذه الظاهرة بعض‬ ‫خرباء العطور القالئل يف لندن وذلك ليس بتغيري‬ ‫مفهومنا للعطور فحسب‪ ،‬بل أيضاً طريقة‬ ‫استخدامنا لها‪.‬‬ ‫من األسامء البارزة يف هذا املجال‪ ،‬خبرية‬ ‫العطور ‪ Emmanuelle Moeglin‬التي‬ ‫أطلقت متجر ‪Experimental Perfume‬‬ ‫حاسة الش ّم‬ ‫‪ Club‬سنة ‪ 2015‬لتُعيد إحياء ّ‬ ‫وتبسط لهم عمليّة صناعة العطور‪.‬‬ ‫لدى الناس ّ‬ ‫"مل الناس يف امل ُدن من‬ ‫تقول يف هذا الصدد‪ّ :‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪88‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪The Rise Of The Flat :36‬‬ ‫موضة الكعب املنخفض‬

‫أحذية الكعب املنخفض مريحة وعمليّة ويف‬ ‫الوقت عينه ملفتة كالكعب العايل وترتقي‬ ‫إىل مستويات جديدة من التألّق‪Sally ،‬‬ ‫‪ McIlhone‬تكشف لنا املزيد‬

‫‪PHOTO: PIXELATE IMAGING‬‬

‫يف السنوات األخرية املاضية‪ ،‬سيطرت أحذية‬ ‫منصات عرض األزياء‪،‬‬ ‫الكعب املنخفض عىل ّ‬ ‫وتن ّوعت بني حذاء ريايض محدود الكم ّية‬ ‫خاص بحوض السباحة وحذاء مفتوح‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وخف ّ‬ ‫من الخلف‪ .‬نظرا ً لرواج املالبس العمليّة يف‬ ‫العامل الحقيقي‪ ،‬تستبدل النساء الكعب الشاهق‬ ‫يقل‬ ‫العل ّو بالكعب املنخفض الجميل الذي ال ّ‬ ‫أنوث ًة لكن يوفّر راح ًة أكرب‪ .‬ومص ّممو األحذية يف‬ ‫لندن رائدون يف مجال أحذية الكعب املنخفض‪،‬‬ ‫كل‬ ‫يبتكرون تصاميم أنيقة لكن عمليّة‪ ،‬تشمل ّ‬ ‫يشء من أحذية بدون رشائط إىل بالريينات‬ ‫رائعة تلفت انتباه محبّي املوضة‪.‬‬ ‫تبتكر ‪،Charlotte Olympia Dellal‬‬ ‫مؤسسة عالمة ‪،Charlotte Olympia‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أحذية مرغوبة منذ سنة ‪ .2008‬تشتهر املص ّممة‬ ‫بحذاء ‪ Kitty‬املنخفض الكعب‪ ،‬وهو ابتكار‬ ‫مشتق من البالريين ويتميّز مبقدّمة‬ ‫جميل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫طُ ّرز عليها وجه ه ّر وأذنان‪ .‬يتوفّر تصميم‬ ‫‪ Kitty‬اآلن بعدد من األلوان واملوديالت ومنها‬ ‫أخفاف مكشوفة الكعب وأخفاف ألحواض‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫بنقوش‬ ‫ش‬ ‫السباحة وأحذية بكعب من الق ّ‬ ‫عدّة‪ ،‬من نقش الفهد إىل العلم الربيطاين‪ .‬وقد‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫استوحيَت هذه األحذية الفائقة العرصيّة من‬ ‫رواية ‪ Cat Among The Pigeons‬للكاتبة‬ ‫‪ Agatha Christie‬الصادرة سنة ‪.1959‬‬ ‫أُطلقت أخفاف ‪ Kitty‬للم ّرة األوىل سنة ‪2011‬‬ ‫ضمن مجموعة ‪ To Die For‬وتفاجأت‬ ‫‪ Dellal‬بنجاح الفكرة‪ .‬قالت املص ّممة ملجلّة‬ ‫‪" :Luxury London‬مل نقصد قط أن‬ ‫تُصبح ‪ Kitty‬ما أصبحت عليه"؛ لك ّنها ال تزال‬ ‫رائجة كام يف السابق وتشكّل اليوم جزءا ً من‬ ‫مجموعة ‪ .Encore‬فإن ِ‬ ‫كنت تفكّرين برشاء‬ ‫أحد تصاميم ‪ Charlotte Olympia‬الرائعة‪،‬‬ ‫اختاري ‪.Kitty‬‬

‫أ ّما الراغبات بأحذية منخفضة الكعب‬ ‫مص ّممة بحسب الطلب‪ ،‬فعليه ّن التو ّجه‬ ‫إىل ‪ .Nicholas Kirkwood‬اختارت عدّة‬ ‫نجامت‪ ،‬ومن بينه ّن عارضة األزياء ‪Gigi‬‬ ‫‪ ،Hadid‬حذاء ‪ Beya‬املنخفض الكعب من‬ ‫ابتكار العالمة‪ .‬وأطلق ‪ Kirkwood‬عىل موقعه‬ ‫اإللكرتوين خدمة التصميم بحسب الطلب‬ ‫لتبتكر الزبونات بأنفسه ّم حذاء ‪ Beya‬العميل‬ ‫أو املكشوف الكعب‪.‬‬ ‫للعالمة التجاريّة الربيطان ّية ‪Russell‬‬ ‫‪ & Bromley‬متجر رئييس يف شارع ‪New‬‬ ‫‪ Bond‬وتاريخ عريق ينعكس عىل تشكيلتها‬ ‫الحال ّية من األحذية الفاخرة‪ .‬من خالل بعض‬ ‫املوديالت العريقة عىل سبيل األحذية العمليّة‪،‬‬ ‫ميكن إضفاء التألّق إىل بدلة رسوال قصري أو‬ ‫إضافة نفحة ذكوريّة إىل إطاللة مؤلّفة من ت ّنورة‬ ‫متوسطة الطول وكنزة من الكشمري‪ .‬ويف املواسم‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫األخرية‪ ،‬نفدت األحذية املنخفضة لدى العالمة‬ ‫من املتاجر‪ .‬تقول ‪ ،Stefanie Hutton‬مديرة‬ ‫العالقات العا ّمة لدى ‪:Russell & Bromley‬‬ ‫"نشهد تح ّوالً حقيق ّياً يف الذوق نحو الكعب‬ ‫املتوسط واملنخفض بدالً من الكعب العايل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الذي سيطر سابقاً عىل املوضة‪ .‬والواقع أ ّن رواج‬ ‫األلبسة الرياض ّية أث ّر عىل خيار النساء لألحذية‬ ‫فكان من الطبيعي أن نالحظ ميل النساء إىل‬ ‫حذاء مريح ومجا ٍر للموضة يف آنٍ واحد‪".‬‬ ‫ولخريف‪/‬شتاء ‪ ،2017/2018‬ينعكس‬ ‫هذا االلتزام بدمج الراحة باملوضة يف بالريينا‬ ‫وبخف أحمر‬ ‫خمريّة اللّون برشائط مخمل ّية ّ‬ ‫مط ّرز بورود زهريّة وذهبيّة وبحذاء ريايض‬ ‫سميك الكعب وبجزمة سوداء قصرية الساق‬ ‫مزخرفة بنرتة أحجار براقة عىل األصابع وبالطبع‬ ‫بأحذية مز ّودة برشاشيب ولجام مبجموعة من‬ ‫األلوان واملوديالت‪ .‬ترشح ‪ Hutton‬قائلة‪" :‬لدينا‬ ‫اختصاص عريق باألحذية الرجاليّة وبات األسلوب‬ ‫العريق رائجاً ومجارياً للموضة اآلن‪ .‬نستحدث‬ ‫تصاميمنا بألوان موسم ّية ونخترب أنسجة جديدة‬ ‫املقصبة واملط ّرزة‪ ،‬مع املحافظة عىل‬ ‫كتلك ّ‬ ‫البساطة‪ ".‬ولهذه الغاية‪ ،‬جدّدت & ‪Russel‬‬

‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

Crocs Store, Westfield London W12 +44 (0) 2087 408 664 www.crocs.co.uk

POSTCAR D

PALL MALL BARBERS Historic Pall Mall Barbers has just celebrated its 120th anniversary.

Founded in 1896, this is one of the longest-established, most respected barber shops in the UK, offering a perfect mix of old-school and modern services for men at four locations around London. The company has had several name changes over the years, and was renamed Pall Mall Barbers in 2005 to lend a more contemporary feel to this classic store, while respecting its heritage and history. The menu includes a variety of treatments, from haircuts to traditional wet Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 70

shaves and beard trims, using the company’s own products. After experiencing the 3 Step Shave System in the salons, clients can purchase the relevant products for the perfect at-home shave.

The shave range includes a scrub, a shaving cream and a postshave balm, made with natural ingredients such as prickly pear, guarana and coconut oil to protect and soothe the skin.

The products are elegantly presented in minimalist black and white packaging. fm Pall Mall Barbers, 27 Whitcomb Street, London WC2H 7EP, +44 (0)20 7930 7787, pallmallbarbers.com

LONDON 225, Regent Street - W1B 2ER 228, Westbourne Grove - W11 2RH

6 St. James’s Street, London, SW1A 1EF Lockhatters.co.uk