SHOP London Style SS15

LONDON | ЛОНДОН | 伦敦 |

LONDON Style Edition Spring/Summer 2015

Page 46 FULL CIRCLE: Carnaby Street swings into action

‫لندن‬

Discover a worlD of beauty At John Lewis Oxford Street we’ve got all the make up and beauty tools you need to create your perfect look.

Our commitment to value means that we match the prices of high street competitors See our ‘Never Knowingly Undersold’ leafet in our shops or online for details.

this excludes online-only or mail order businesses). Service conditions must be comparable.

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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

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Welcome to London

Hanover

Let SHOP reveal a surprising side of London.

Read about expert British tailor, Edward Sexton (page 54), cutting-edge jewellery designer Charlotte Valkeniers (page 38), and much more.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 11% when shopping in the UK. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in London. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

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ILLUSTRATION: FERNANDO VOLKEN TOGNI

CONTRIBUTORS

Josh Sims For this edition of SHOP London Style, freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims meets the famous British tailor Edward Sexton. As well as writing for SHOP, he contributes to publications including the Financial Times, Independent, Observer, Wallpaper and Esquire. Josh’s latest book is Icons of Women’s Style, published in April 2015. globalblue.com

Fernando Volken Togni Brazilian illustrator Fernando Volken Togni created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP London Style. His intricate and colourful style makes him the perfect choice for this cover, which is based on London’s vibrant and legendary fashion hotspot Carnaby Street, and takes infuence from 1960s psychedelic album art. Read more about the Carnaby Street area and its history on page 46. Fernando has created artwork for Hermès, Google and Orange among others.

Find out more about our illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Dionne Hélène Dionne Hélène is employed as an artworking assistant for SHOP magazine. She is a sneaker enthusiast and in her spare time she works for Europe’s largest sneaker festival, Crepe City. She has also created work for Nike and the V&A. Dionne enjoys sketching, collecting vintage Ralph Lauren items and listening to Action Bronson.

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Fernando Volken Togni Contributors Maria Kirchen-Hill, Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Production assistant Katie Muxworthy Features editor Verity Hogan City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold Fashion co-ordinator Fani Mari Fashion and news intern Rebecca Fearn Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/ Deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Sarah Walker Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, George Trinick Artworking intern Samantha Junak

PU BL ISH I NG Publisher James Morris

Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Online production assistant Marina Nelson Online assistant Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang Chinese translators Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

GLOBA L BLU E U K Vice-president sales northern Europe Richard Brown Country manager Gordon Clark UK sales manager Peter Blake UK marketing sales manager Tammy Fraser Marketing account manager Kimberly Urbaniak Marketing sales executive Abbie Elphick International key account managers Barbara Badelt, Richard Harvey Key account managers Sarah Farag, Jerry Junkere, Ashish Obhrai, Sunni Sokhi Account managers Saish Balakashnan, Daroon Hamdi, Nikhita Hyett, Victoria Trimble

Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital marketing intern Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Digital intern Sammy Ha Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini

Chief Executive Officer David Baxby Chief Traveller Officer Craig Le Grice SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication.

Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

LONDON | 49 Jermyn Street | Tel. +44 207.629.24.95 | 28 Sloane Square | Tel. +44 207.823.50.44

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CONTENTS

P RO D U C T S 20 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from London this season 24 My Favourites Anna Murray, founder of Patternity, reveals her top tips for spring/summer 2015 26 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 32 Street Style Our pick of London’s bestdressed men for spring/ summer 2015 N EWS 35 Shop Window One store not to be missed in London 36 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products 44 In Store … … with Brix Smith-Smart in her intriguing Start London womenswear boutique F E AT U R E S 46 Cover Story: The Cool Quarter One part of central London has encapsulated British style since the 1960s and remains just as popular today.

Verity Hogan takes a tour of Carnaby Street globalblue.com

54 Revolution By Design Savile Row rebel Edward Sexton is bringing his distinctive style of tailoring to a new ready-to-wear range, discovers Josh Sims E X PE R I E NCE 62 Table Talk We visit some of London’s most exciting food trucks and street stalls GU I DE 69 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of London 84 My City Chef David Philpot shares his London recommendations ESSENTIA LS 88 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S

89 Русский Перевод 95 美文翻译 103 POSTCA R D 104 SHOP writes home about Penhaligon’s

20 | P RO D U C T S

CHECK OUT

QUALITY TIME Inspired by two very stylish cities, Stockholm and London, Larsson & Jennings has become a go-to destination for those looking for fashionable and afordable watches since its founding in 2012. Its dedication to a minimal aesthetic results in sophisticated timepieces featuring elegant and clean lines.

The water-resistant Läder watch refects the brand’s desire to fuse Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

modern and fresh Swedish features with British elements. The black and gold face is minimalistic, while the vibrant red strap is made from British leather. As with all items from Larsson & Jennings, this timepiece is unisex, making it a perfect gift for men or women. rf Larsson & Jennings Läder watch, £250, Larsson & Jennings, 53 Monmouth Street, London WC2H 9DG, +44 (0)20 7836 9707, larssonandjennings.com for map go to page 83

*

WITH CURV速 TECHNOLOGY THE STRONGEST AND LIGHTEST SAMSONITE EVER

Available from: JS Trunk & Co Westfield, London

Samsonite Company Store, Bicester Village

Samsonite Company Store, Cheshire Oaks Designer Outlet

24 | P RO D U C T S

MY FAVOURITES: Anna Murray Photographer and art director Anna Murray co-founded Patternity with product designer Grace Winteringham. The women have set up an online image archive dedicated to pattern and also ofer a pattern research and consultancy service, working with clients such as Apple, Céline, Nike and the BBC. Here Anna shares her London shopping tips with Gemma Latham patternity.org

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1. ‘Darkroom carefully curates quality ranges by emerging craftspeople and artisans who draw inspiration from design history’ Darkroom, 52 Lamb’s Conduit Street, London WC1N 3LL, +44 (0)20 7831 7244, darkroomlondon.com

2. ‘In return for designing a friend’s wedding invitation, I was bought a bottle of Penhaligon’s Opus 1870 fragrance. The scent makes me feel like I’m stepping back in time’ Penhaligon’s Opus 1870 eau de toilette, 100ml, £85, Penhaligon’s, 41 Wellington Street, London WC2E 7BN, +44 (0)20 7240 6256, penhaligons.com

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

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S H O P | 25

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PHOTOS: (4) BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL; (5) CANON INC.

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3. ‘We collaborated with ceramic specialist Richard Brendon on a range of tea items inspired by British culture. The teapot in bold navy stripes merges tradition with innovation and is very London’

4. ‘Mary Katrantzou's spring/summer collection is a nod to the beauty of the natural world.

It’s refreshing to see pieces that are reminiscent of rippling coral and lichens’

Patternity x Richard Brendon teapot, £185, Wolf & Badger, 32 Dover Street, London W1S 4NE, +44 (0)20 3627 3191, richardbrendon.com

Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, +44 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), marykatrantzou.com

globalblue.com

5. ‘I don’t go anywhere without my Canon G16 camera so I can constantly capture new ideas and inspirations wherever I am’ Canon Powershot G16 Camera, £334.99, London Camera Exchange, 98 Strand, London WC2R 0EW, +44 (0)20 7379 0200, canon.com

26 | P RO D U C T S

FLORA AND FAUNA Take inspiration from the natural world with this palm tree print jacket and embossed bee watch

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1. Mango sandals, £69.99, Mango, 225-235 Oxford Street, London W1D 2LP, +44 (0)20 7534 3505, mango.com

4. Hobbs bag, £149, Hobbs, 112-115 Long Acre, London WC2E 9PA, +44 (0)20 7836 0625, hobbs.co.uk

2. Judy Wu jacket, £420, Wolf & Badger, 32 Dover Street, London W1S 4NE, +44 (0)20 3627 3191, judywu.co.uk

5. Olivia Burton watch, £125, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), oliviaburton.com

3. Cos earrings, £15, Cos, 222 Regent Street, London W1B 5BD, +44 (0)20 7478 0400, cosstores.com

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

PHOTO: (5) RORY T SEDDON

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S H O P | 27

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

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Bring the countryside to the city with these stylish staples

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PHOTO: (2) © ANTFARM PHOTOGRAPHY

1. Hedon helmet, £299, Trunk Clothiers, 8 Chiltern Street, London W1U 7PU, +44 (0)20 7486 2357, hedon.com 2. Dunhill eau de toilette, 100ml, £73, Dunhill, Bourdon House, 2 Davies Street, London W1K 3DJ, +44 (0)20 7853 4440, dunhill.com 3. Moncler sunglasses, £250, Moncler, 197 Sloane Street, London SW1X 9QX, +44 (0)20 7235 0857, moncler.com

globalblue.com

4. Z Zegna Techmerino Racer trainers, £270, Ermenegildo Zegna, 37-38 New Bond Street, London W1S 2RU, +44 (0)20 7518 2700, zegna.com 5. Barbour jacket, £429, Barbour, 29 Foubert’s Place, London W1F 7QF, +44 (0)20 7434 3209, barbour.com

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MODERN BOHEMIAN

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During the longer days and balmy nights, bring out your free spirit 1

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1. Marie France Van Damme kaftan, £400, Marie France Van Damme, 177 Draycott Avenue, London SW3 3AL, +44 (0)20 7584 4843, mariefrancevandamme.com 2. JCM London earrings, £375, JCM London, 45 Beauchamp Place, London SW3 1NX, +44 (0)20 7581 1711, jcmlondon.com

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

3. Ugg Australia sandals, £120, Ugg Australia, 10 Glasshouse Street, London W1B 5AR, +44 (0)20 7112 7771, uggaustralia.co.uk 4. Gvyn bag, £349, Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RJ, +44 (0)20 7235 5000, gvyn.com

S H O P | 29

SUMMER IN THE CITY Bold prints always make a statement 2 1

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1. Peter Pilotto dress, £620, Browns, 24-27 South Molton Street, London W1K 5RD, +44 (0)20 7514 0016, peterpilotto.com 2. Danielle Foster bag, £310, 69B Boutique, 69B Broadway Market, London E8 4PH, +44 (0)20 7249 9655, daniellefoster.co.uk

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3. Acqua di Parma Rosa Nobile fragrance, 75ml, £68, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), acquadiparma.com 4. Chanel Rouge Coco lipstick in Mademoiselle, £26, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 7730 1234, chanel.com

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The city has always embraced vibrant and personal styles, and at London Fashion Week the best dressed chose bright colours and punchy prints.

From art-inspired printed dresses to Miu Miu’s clear plastic boots, the lesson was clear: more is more

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

STREET STYLE

S H O P | 33

globalblue.com

OXFORD STREET 388 Oxford Street W1C 1JT

JERMYN STREET

103–108 Jermyn Street SW1Y 6EQ

tmlewin.co.uk

REGENT STREET 126 Regent Street W1B 5SD

N E W S | 35

SHOP WINDOW

SUITED AND BOOTED Famous for its workers’ boots, Timberland is steadily cementing its position as an all-round lifestyle label.

Discover the full range of men’s, women’s and children’s clothing at the brand’s newly opened fagship store on Regent Street, a vast space where Timberland’s aesthetic meets London style. Once you’ve selected Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

your pair of boots, take advantage of Timberland’s customisation service to make yours truly personal. In addition, once a month a London-based artist will be invited to add their own fair to Timberland’s items, many of which will be available to purchase, making unforgettable souvenirs. hl Timberland, 144 Regent Street, London W1B 5SQ, +44 (0)20 7494 9588, timberland.com * for map go to page 78

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EASTERN PROMISE

HOMEWARE WITH HISTORY

Multibrand boutique Glassworks has opened a new store in Dalston, not far from the retailer’s original shop in Shoreditch. The new space stocks Glassworks’ own streetwear-inspired designs, with young and edgy women in mind.

Footwear and accessories are also available to complete the look.

This trend-driven store will appeal to visitors who are seeking a truly east London retail experience. The interior oozes modernity, with exposed brick, dark wooden foors, white walls and iron railings showcasing the cool clothing. rf Glassworks, 78 Stoke Newington Road, London N16 7XB, +44 (0)8454 100110, glassworks-studios.com

Bring some British heritage into your life with the Merchant Fox. The label uses cloth from the Fox Brothers wool and cloth mill, which was founded in 1772 and is one of the few remaining working mills in Britain. Renowned for the fnest materials and expert craftsmanship, Fox Brothers supplies luxury fabrics to royalty, aristocracy, Savile Row tailors and London fashion houses. The Merchant Fox combines a discerning eye for quality with timeless and exquisite design to create homewares, clothing, leather goods, luggage and accessories. We especially like the interiors range which includes furniture, as well as the smaller items such as cushions, throws and candles, which are perfect suitcase-friendly souvenirs. gl

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

PHOTO: CMACDFOTO

S H O P | 37

ALL IN STORE

Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, themerchantfox.co.uk * for map go to page 78 globalblue.com

Located in the picturesque Royal Borough of Kingston-upon-Thames, Bentalls is one of the area’s best-stocked department stores and is well worth a visit. Just 30 minutes by train from Waterloo station, the store has a large range of clothing for men, women and children as well as a beauty department and homewares. Look out for Bentalls’ expansive handbag section which stocks pieces by highend brands such as Michael Kors, Mulberry, Coach and Marc by Marc Jacobs. mkh Bentalls, Wood Street, Kingston upon Thames, London KT1 1TX, +44 (0)20 8546 1001, bentalls.co.uk

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SPECTACULAR SPECTACLES A year after its online launch, the British spectacle brand Cubitts has opened its frst workshop. Located in Soho, the store ofers eye tests and high-tech services including an augmented reality try-on facility and facial-measurement software. Over a period of six weeks, Cubitts’ frames go through 50 stages of production to transform the single sheets of Italian acetate into the beautiful glasses on display. All the spectacles and sunglasses are handmade in classic shapes with anti-scratch and antiglare coating as standard. Each pair of spectacles comes with a handmade leather case and optical screwdriver. To top it of, the accompanying cleaning cloth features a full-colour scene of King’s Cross. th The Cubitts Workshop, 37 Marshall Street, London W1F 7EZ, +44 (0)20 7287 0564, cubitts.co.uk * for map go to page 78

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

GEOMETRIC JEWELLERY East London is known to foster some of the most exciting design talent in the city, and the Dalstonbased jewellery designer Charlotte Valkeniers is one of the best we’ve seen recently. Launched in 2013, her eponymous label has been recognised for its unique approach to materials and design. Belgian-born Valkeniers focuses on precious metals handcrafted into geometric shapes, and has been working for some time with Swarovski using the brand’s beautiful crystals. Her jewellery is subtly unusual and modern yet wearable. Her latest collection focuses on the triangle: the shape is dissected, disconnected and rebuilt to create wonderful rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces. hl East London Design Store, 6A Ada Street, London E8 4QU, +44 (0)20 7254 3760, charlottevalkeniers.com

MENSWEAR

OXFORD STREET 388 Oxford Street W1C 1JT

JERMYN STREET

103–108 Jermyn Street SW1Y 6EQ

tmlewin.co.uk

REGENT STREET 126 Regent Street W1B 5SD

40 | N E W S

COUNTRY SET

PHOTO: DAMIAN RUSSELL

Last November saw the allsinging, all-dancing opening of Hunter’s frst global fagship store.

Inspired by the musical Singin’ in the Rain, 28 dancers took to Regent Street wearing the brand’s fnest waterproof gear. Hunter’s creative director Alasdhair Willis devised the concept for the store and uses references to the British countryside: the seating areas resemble a rural boot room, while the lighting has been created to mimic Britain’s temperamental weather. The store is the frst to showcase the Hunter Original collection, which was launched with a runway show at London Fashion Week in February 2014. th Hunter, 83-85 Regent Street, London W1B 4EW, +44 (0)20 7287 2999, hunterboots.com * for map go to page 80

PHOTO: DANMEDHURST.COM

FRENCH FRAGRANCE

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

With the Verbena and Lavender de Provence collection from Crabtree & Evelyn, the freshness of the French countryside is just a spritz away. The light, zesty scent of verbena works in harmony with lavender essential oils to create an uplifting fragrance that’s perfect for combating the heat of summer in the city. Whether you choose the cologne, shower gel or hand therapy, you can be assured that each is formulated with moisturising properties and the herbal know-how that customers have come to expect from the American brand. th Crabtree & Evelyn, 151 Regent Street, London W1B 4JD, +44 (0)20 7734 6043, crabtree-evelyn.co.uk * for map go to page 78

A DV E R T O R I A L | 41

IMAGINE THIS This season, Ted Baker’s collections burst into life with fashes of bold print, strong textured fabrics and vivid colours. Womenswear abounds with a palette of paintpot tones splashed on clothing and accessories, while punchy pinks, pretty pastels and blink-and-you’llmiss-them nudes illuminate foral motifs and modern graphic prints.

The colour-flled elegance of the cascading foral and mirrored tropics prints capture the imagination, while distinguished rose and linear nouveau prints create a nostalgic feel and romantic fights of fancy.

Fantasy meets reality with Ted Baker’s take on sports luxe, complete with metal hardware, sequins and neoprene. Inky shades of navy and black are highlighted with pops of chartreuse, cobalt and orange globalblue.com

that ensure a double take wherever you may wander.

The menswear collection is a paradise of striking colour blocks and bold hues. This season’s smartyet-stylish look is a mix of relaxed layers, casual knitwear and refned, formal pieces. A head-turning colour palette of head-to-toe tones of creamy mints, striking peach and pastel pinks create colourful illusions, while oversized geometric prints, contrast spots and micro forals play on perspective.

With stores throughout London and the surrounding area, you can enjoy the new season’s collections wherever you are. Find Ted Baker in Covent Garden, Knightsbridge, Regent Street, South Molton Street, Westfeld London, Gatwick Airport (north and south terminals), Heathrow Airport (terminals T1, T2, T3, T4 and T5) and designer outlet Bicester Village. tedbaker.com

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IN STORE: START LONDON

‘When we moved into Shoreditch from Notting Hill, there was nowhere to shop, so we decided to create a tiny boutique on a back street and fll it with things we love.

Necessity is the mother of invention, and we opened our frst store in October 2002.

‘At the time, Shoreditch had an artistic frisson and there was a creative energy in the air. It felt like SoHo in New York in the 1980s, you could sense something was about to happen in the area.

‘We were very involved with the design of the store. Philip Start and Philip Oakley, a lighting specialist, did the design, and I added touches here and there, but we all collaborated and had fun doing it.

Save up to 11% by shopping tax free, see page 88

‘We have wonderful eclectic and artistic touches in the store, like the neon sign that says “treasure”, the giant cake mirror ball on which we merchandise accessories, and the fake-fower funeral wreath saying “shoes” which is above the shoe department. We are always changing things and adding new ideas to the mix – it’s a very fuid shop. In a way, it is our artistic canvas and we continuously change the space and environment.

‘We buy what we love, we pick winners and I like to buy things that are classic with a twist. These are items that can stay in your wardrobe for 10 years or more and things you can accessorise again and again. We like to have various

PHOTOS: XIMENA DANERI

Founded by husband and wife Philip Start and Brix Smith-Start, the Start London womenswear boutique is a unique shopping experience. Ximena Daneri talked to Brix about the vision behind the store’s individuality

S H O P | 45

price points so everybody can afford to buy something here and I think what we are really brilliant at is the edit.

‘We remerchandise every few days – sometimes every day – and I always use colour as my starting point when merchandising.

Everything must look delicious, like a candy store.

‘My top picks for spring/summer 2015 are Marques Almeida, Shrimps, Sandy Liang and Roksanda. When it comes to menswear, soft tailoring is a big trend this season.

‘We have exclusives every single season. We love to work directly with designers, either doing limited editions or special colours. globalblue.com

The Gladys & Pixie items, which include luxury cashmere sweaters, scarves, leather goods and accessories, are only sold in our stores and on our web shop.

‘There are so many memorable stories about this shop, but my favourite is when Disney threw a party here to celebrate Mickey Mouse hats that were customised by celebrities. Mickey Mouse arrived from Disneyland Paris and danced in our women’s store to Beyoncé’s Single Ladies; it was hilarious and unprecedented.’

Start London, 42-44 Rivington Street, London EC2A 3QP, +44 (0)20 7729 3334, start-london.com

THE COOL One part of central London has encapsulated British style since the 1960s and remains just as popular today. Verity Hogan takes a tour of Carnaby Street

QUARTER In 1966, Time Magazine declared a small area on the edge of Soho the heart of ‘swinging London’.

Since then, Carnaby Street and its

surrounding ofshoots have come to represent the epicentre of London cool. The Rolling Stones, the Kinks, Jimi Hendrix and the Sex

PHOTO: Š RAY STEVENSON/REX FEATURES

48 | F E AT U R E S

Pistols all frequented the area in the 1960s and 70s, shopping in its independent boutiques, performing in clubs and hanging out in the local restaurants. Music, fashion and a hint of rebellion have all been part of the Carnaby experience ever since.

In the early 19th century, Carnaby was a quiet area comprising workshops along with a few shops and restaurants. Its transformation began in 1952 when a fre forced John Stephen to move his menswear shop from nearby Beak Street to Carnaby Street. Various small, independent boutiques quickly followed, all ofering affordable, fashionable clothing to a youthful clientele. Stores such as 89 /

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Carnaby remains one of London’s most soughtafter shopping streets with a range of flagship stores, high-end restaurants and a diverse programme of events

Previous page: this mural by Dudley Edwards on the Lord John store was a main Carnaby Street atraction in the 1960s

PHOTO: FELIX CARRETTO

PHOTO: JOHN PRATT/KEYSTONE FEATURES/GETTY IMAGES

S H O P | 49

Lord John, Take Six, Gear, and ‘I was Lord Kitchener’s Valet’ became renowned for their famboyant fashion ranges, and designers competed to bring the most original, and often outrageous, ideas to the area.

Today, Carnaby remains one of London’s most sought-after shopping streets with a range of fagship stores, high-end restaurants and a diverse programme of events bringing visitors from around the world, as well as Londoners, to the area in their droves. Its links with the UK’s music scene are still strong: it was here that ex-Oasis frontman Liam Gallagher decided to open the frst store of his fashion label Pretty Green and a number

Above (clockwise from lef page): the Sex Pistols, 1976; singer Cat Stevens, 1967, both in Carnaby Street; the street continues to be a colourful and creative area

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of brands closely associated with the music industry, such as Dr Martens and the Great Frog, also have stores here. Meanwhile, the Carnaby Echoes app, an interactive walking tour of the area, gives visitors the opportunity to gain a deeper insight into its diverse musical history, providing flm and audio interviews when sites of particular interest are passed.

In keeping with the area’s unique feel, some of the stores that have found a home here ofer bespoke services. Visit Dr Martens to have a pair of its boots made to order or stop at Paul Smith’s Soho concept store, which ofers a custom-made jeans service and an exclusive Soho-inspired suit lining.

The food offering in the area has also grown in recent years, making Carnaby a gourmet destination

Above (from top): the Paul Smith Soho concept store; Dr Martens spring/summer 2015

ECCO Kensington 102 Kensington High Street · W8 4SG London · +44 207 938 25 83 ECCO Oxford Circus 261 Oxford Street · W1C 2DE London · +44 207 495 47 96 ECCO Knightsbridge 45 Brompton Road · SW3 1DE London · +44 207 584 57 37 ECCO Covent Garden 36 Long Acre · WC2E 9JT London · +44 207 379 51 45 ECCO Westfeld Westfeld Shopping Centre · Unit 1114 · W12 7GD London · +44 208 735 18 30 ECCO Wimbledon Centre Court Shopping Centre · 4 Queens Road · SW19 8YE London · +44 208 947 86 65

ecco.com

52 | F E AT U R E S

Californian watch company Nixon is one of the area’s most recent openings. Located on Newburgh Street, the store is a perfect ft for Carnaby’s creative, youthful spirit and features a workshopinspired customisation bar where visitors can create their own oneof-a-kind timepiece. Refecting Carnaby’s independent heritage, the bar allows patrons to choose from a range of component parts and engraved detailing options to create a custom-built watch. Three models are available for customisation – the Sentry, the Time Teller and the 48-20 Chrono.

A Carnaby address has a certain cachet and, along with the British brands found here, a number of international companies have chosen

Carnaby Street to be their only base in the UK, among them Swedishlabel Monki, with its playful collections that stand out from the crowd, ElevenParis, which brings its own brand of Parisian chic to Carnaby, and Spanish-label Lavand.

‘We chose Carnaby as a location for our store as it has been the heart of youth culture and street fashion since the 1960s, making it the ideal shopping location for our 54-year-old brand,’ says Amy Nelson, Dr Martens’ marketing manager. ‘Like Dr Martens, Carnaby has re-invented itself over the decades while maintaining its trendy fashion identity and association with music.’

The food ofering in the area has also grown in recent years,

Above (clockwise from lef): watch customisation bar in Nixon’s fagship store; Señor Ceviche; the entrance to Kingly Court, Carnaby Street

S H O P | 53

making Carnaby a gourmet destination. The newly renovated Kingly Court plays host to some of the capital’s most talked about eateries, from casual pizzeria Pizza Pilgrims to seafood restaurant Wright Brothers Soho and acclaimed Indian eatery Cinnamon Soho. Bringing the tastes of downtown Lima to central London, Peruvian restaurant Señor Ceviche is one of the most recent additions to the food scene. ‘Carnaby has been brilliant for us,’ says the restaurant’s founder Harry Edmeades. ‘It’s always buzzing and attracts a fun crowd.

Our aim is to make Peruvian food and drink more accessible to Londoners and being located here has made that possible.’ carnaby.co.uk

54 | F E AT U R E S

REVOLUTION

BY DESIGN

92 /

101

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S H O P | 55

Savile Row rebel Edward Sexton is bringing his distinctive style of tailoring to a new ready-to-wear range, discovers Josh Sims

Edward Sexton may not be a British fashion name that appears on billboards and magazine spreads around the world. Indeed, his contribution to British style has been relatively under the radar even within the UK, where his one-time partner Tommy Nutter is the more recognisable name among those with a penchant for a well-cut suit. But things may be about to change. Despite being beyond retirement age, the legendary bespoke tailor has now launched his frst made-to-measure collection, as well as a ready-to-wear line of seven-fold ties in cashmere and silk, scarves and pocket squares in paisley and macro prints and artfully tailored tab-collar and pincollar shirts.

‘I love tailoring still – it’s my hobby,’ says Sexton, who left London’s Savile Row to become a menswear specialist in Knightsbridge in the 1980s. ‘I get as excited now coming to work at 72 as I did when I was 17. The youngsters who work here let me know what’s going on out on the street fashion-wise, even though I’m not that into trends. I’m into sophisticated dressing.’

Sexton, of course, was once one of those youngsters. And his contribution to London’s Above: Edward Sexton grey wool suit, spring/summer 2015

56 | F E AT U R E S

tailoring scene was revolutionary.

Sexton the cloth-master and Nutter the salesman and style visionary formed Nutters of Savile Row in 1969 and introduced the idea of bespoke tailoring to a generation that had dismissed it as being strictly for the old guard. They opened their premises on Savile Row with shop windows – then unheard of – and cut suits with a contemporary, slightly period fair – narrow waists, parallel-legged trousers and wide peak lapels were all Sexton signatures that chimed with the times. Mick Jagger, Eric Clapton and Twiggy became customers and the Beatles wore Sexton on the cover of their Abbey Road album.

‘We didn’t know that what we would do would create a furore,’ Above (clockwise from top): Nuters store, circa 1980; women’s power suit; suit for Elton John, 1984; men’s trench coat; men’s checked suit, all Tommy Nuter design sketches

Buttoning up the top button of your shirt is something that’s been done to Ben Sherman shirts since 1963. It is a deliberate style choice that exudes ‘Britishness’ and personal pride. It’s also an integral part of British style culture.

Commercial Street 115 Portobello Road Islington Carnaby Street Covent Garden 1/1a Camden Walk 108 Commercial Street 115 Portobello Road 50 Carnaby Street 119 Long Acre London Covent Garden, London Islington, London London London W11 2DY WC2E 9PA E1 6LZ N1 8DY W1F 9QA

58 | F E AT U R E S

says Sexton. ‘We were just two young guys who liked looking in shop windows, so we thought nothing of putting in shop windows. We didn’t know that challenged tradition. But that then allowed new ideas about tailoring to spread through a very closed world. Even the timing was right – London at that time encouraged a cult of innovation. It was luck. I’ve been extremely lucky in life – none of it was planned.’

‘I’m just there to provide the best clothes for the customer, regardless of who they are’ Edward Sexton

It was through his work creating bespoke suits for Paul McCartney that Sexton came to meet Stella McCartney (Paul’s daughter). Sexton went on to oversee all of the tailoring that Stella introduced as creative director of Chloé, and for her own label. He developed a rare expertise in cutting suits for women – a talent that has attracted the likes of Annie Lennox and Kate Moss as customers. ‘You can’t just turn to Above (clockwise from top lef): Edward Sexton dinner suit illustration; the brand’s grey wool suit, both spring/summer 2015; historic image of Edward Sexton with tailor Peter Osbourne

7forallmankind.com

LONDON 11B, King Street WC2E 8HN

228, Westbourne Grove W11 2RH

225, Regent Street W1B 2ER

60 | F E AT U R E S

The Italian cloth shirts share the same attention to craft as all his other items traditional men’s tailoring training to cut for a woman. They end up looking like they’re wearing a man’s jacket,’ notes Sexton.

When it comes to ready-towear, Sexton is certainly late to the party. So why do it? Indeed, most bespoke tailors are historically rather disdainful about the idea. ‘I’ve always admired ready-to-wear, accessories especially,’ counters Sexton. ‘It’s those with which you romance a suit. A suit is just a suit – but the right tie, for instance, makes it look diferent and feel diferent to wear. Of course, I remember when ready-to-wear didn’t really exist.

But the advances in manufacturing now mean it really has reached

a peak, an excellent quality. Now I aim to introduce a new peak.’

His made-to-measure suits, for example, are all high armholes, roped sleeves and fared ‘skirts’ – benchmarks of bespoke. The Italian cloth shirts share the same attention to craft as all his other items: the collars are engineered to ‘sit proud’, as Sexton puts it, so that whether fastened or not they always look crisp. Perhaps Paul McCartney will be back. Not that Sexton is too bothered by the celebrity interest. ‘I can’t aford to be star-struck,’ he says. ‘I’m just there to provide the best clothes for the customer, regardless of who they are.’ edwardsexton.co.uk

Above (from lef): Edward Sexton Blue collection, spring/summer 2015; designer Edward Sexton

L E E ® S T OR E S : Westfeld Shopping Centre Shepherds Bush LONDON — W12 7GF +44 208 743 1155 35 Neal Street, Covent Garden LONDON — WC2H 9PR +44 207 836 8300

62 | E X P E R I E N C E

STREET FOOD Forget fne dining, London’s savviest foodies are seeking out food trucks, markets and stalls. Isabella Redmond Styles tracks down some of the very best

In recent years, street food has become an integral part of the capital’s food scene. Providing more than just a quick bite to eat, the city’s roadside stalls and trucks ofer gourmet experiences to rival that of many restaurants. Highcalibre street food markets can now be found across London, among them the well-established Borough Market and the fast-growing Kerb. globalblue.com

These stalls provide a convenient and accessible way to sample some of the city’s most delicious eats and many are now setting up at outdoor events; fnd where your chosen stall is currently located by checking on social media. From lobster rolls and Asian-style steamed buns to perfectly made pizzas and gourmet gelato, London’s streets are serving intriguing international food.

S H O P | 63

YUM BUN Yum Bun has received rave reviews citywide for its steamed buns, which are flled with a meat, fsh or vegetarian option: typical fllings include pork belly and hoisin sauce, Portobello mushrooms, walnuts and miso glaze, and crispy prawns with green chilli sambal

and Kewpie mayonnaise from Japan. The stall started out at Broadway Market in east London and is now a regular fxture at Kerb street food markets and at summertime events. These buns are due to be available at Harvey Nichols later this year.

Yum Bun, various venues, yumbun.com, @yumbun

64 | E X P E R I E N C E

PIZZA PILGRIMS After returning from a six week ‘pizza pilgrimage’ around southern Italy with a three-wheeled Piaggio Ape van, the Pizza Pilgrims promptly installed an Italian stone oven in the vehicle and set up shop in Soho. An obsession with quality means that many ingredients come from Naples, and all pizzas are crafted from handmade dough which has been proved for between 24 hours and 28 hours. There are now two permanent pizzerias on Dean Street and Kingly Court, both in Soho, and the van is becoming a fxture at summer events.

Pizza Pilgrims, 11 Kingly Street, London W1B 5PW, +44 (0)20 7287 2200, pizzapilgrims.co.uk globalblue.com

TIMOThY OLSON ChAMONIx / FRANCE TIM KEMPLE

THE NORTH FACE LONDON C OV E NT GARDE N WES TFI EL D VI C TORIA S T. PAUL S TR AT FORD W E MBL EY C ARN ABY

NEVER STOP EXPLORING

™

®

PHOTO: WILKES MCDERMID

E X P E R I E N C E | 67

BOB’S LOBSTER With an emphasis on fun and accessibility, BOB’s Lobster stall sprang up at Borough Market last year and its Americana-themed dishes, served from a split-screen VW van, were quick to draw crowds. Tuck into classics such

as lobster rolls and lobster mac ‘n’ cheese, while other dishes, including fresh ahi (yellowfn) tuna tacos, are also typically available.

Wine, beer and van-made lemonade are served from a vintage ice cream tricycle.

BOB’s Lobster, various venues, bobslobster.com, @BOBs_Lobster

SORBITIUM

Focusing on seasonal and locally sourced ingredients, Sorbitium has an artisan approach to ice cream.

Putting the conventional ice cream van to shame, Sorbitium operates out of a charming 1976 Citroën HY and can be found at various London markets and events, ranging from Kerb street food markets to Polo in the Park. Among Sorbitium’s summer scoops, expect to see Peach Leaf Crème Brûlée, Fresh Mint and Gooey Chocolate Slab, and Cherry Negroni Granita. globalblue.com

Sorbitium, various venues, sorbitiumices.com, @Sorbitiumices

www.kipling.com

KIPLING STORES 205 Regent Street, W1B 4PE London 29 Brompton Rd, SW3 1ED London Westfeld Shopping Centre, Ariel way-unit 1136, W12 7GD London

G U I D E | 69

GUIDE

PHOTO: KIRSTY ANDREWS

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to London with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the coolest fashion stores to the city’s must-visit cafés. Start with our recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.

A GLIMPSE OF LONDON Above: umbrella installation at Vinopolis Piazza, Borough Market

70 | G U I D E

LONDON MARYLEBONE WARWICK AVENUE EDGWARE ROAD

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72 | G U I D E 1. Les 100 Ciels Cashmere design can often err towards the overly sedate, but at Les 100 Ciels you’ll fnd trend-led separates, dresses and coats in covetable cuts and colours.

Les 100 Ciels, 18-19 St Christopher’s Place, London W1U 1NN, +44 (0)20 7859 4628, les100c.com for map go to page 77

TOP 3 STORES IN ST CHRISTOPHER’S PLACE

1

*

2. Groom Located just off St Christopher’s Place, Groom pioneered two-therapist synchronised beauty treatments, taking the spa experience to a new level of indulgence.

We recommend the Weekly Groom Hour.

Groom, 8 Gee’s Court, London W1U 1JQ, +44 (0)20 7499 1199, groomlondon.com for map go to page 77

*

3. Diverso Combining British design with Italian artisanship, Diverso’s menswear collections are striking and original. For a shirt or suit you won’t fnd at home, look no further.

Diverso, 23 St Christopher’s Place, London W1U 1NR, +44 (0)20 7486 7501, diversoonline.com for map go to page 77

*

Oxford Street (North) CURRYS PC WORLD ●

WATERSTONES ● THE PERFUME SHOP ● ACCESSORIZE ●

MOSS BROS ● ESPRIT ●

AMERICAN APPAREL ●

● H SAMUEL ● MARKS & SPENCER VERO MODA/ ● JACK & JONES ● MUJI ● BOOTS

MA R KE T P L .

RA M IL

H&M ●

ALDO ● OFFICE ● RUSSELL & BROMLEY ●

ET

RE ET

ST RE ET

UNIQLO ●

D KEN W E ED E R ● EN OFF

STR E

ST LE ST

DUNE ●

RETRO LONDON JESSOPS SWAROVSKI COOLWAY THE ORANGE SHOP FLIGHT CENTRE

NOEL

JEANS WEST ●

OXFORD STREET

EA STCA

MA RG AR ET

SPORTS DIRECT ●

● ● ● ● ● ●

REET LAY ST D’ARB

ST RE ET

L●

NUD

The Plaza

W EL LS

O AT R

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K ST W IC JE A N S ● BER IE FOO

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LI ES ST

THE PHOTOGRAPHERS GALLERY

● NEXT ● NEW LOOK ● RIVER ISLAND

SCHUH ●

Global Blue Retailer Place Of Interest

● ZARA

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

Š2015 Vans Inc. Photo: Clara Balzary

VANS STORES LONDON: 47 Carnaby Street, 109-209 Camden High Street, 42 Neal Street, Westfeld London (ground foor), Westfeld Stratford (ground foor)

74 | G U I D E

UNI

the Dragon and Crazy Roll platters are particular highlights.

Meat lovers will be impressed with the sumptuously tender wagyu beef with rock salt and chilli, and the signature Chilli Mojito cocktail is the perfect way to round of your meal.

Uni, 18A Ebury Street, London SW1W 0LU, +44 (0)20 7730 9267, restaurantuni.com

Proving that Peruvian and Japanese cuisine can merge to create tantalising fusion dishes, Uni ofers an intriguing menu. From the salmon tartare tacos to the ceviche and tiraditos, each dish features impeccably balanced favours. The choice of sashimi and maki is very impressive, and

Oxford Street (Central) ● BERSHKA

URBAN OUTFITTERS ●

RT LA

MISS SELFRIDGE ●

TOPSHOP/TOPMAN ● NIKETOWN ●

OXFORD STREET

GR EAT PO

T ND ST R EE

● MANGO ● GAP ● BUREAU DE CHANGE

● TEZENIS

R E G EN

OXFORD CIRCUS

REG EN T STR EET

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● BENETTON

H&M ●

● PANDORA ● ECCO

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JO H

IN N PR

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ZARA ● H. SAMUEL ●

● VISION EXPRESS ● JD SPORTS

BHS

PLA CE

CLARKS ● WAREHOUSE ●

● ERNEST JONES ● SALVATION FOOT

GEOX ● THE BODY SHOP ● COAST ●

Cavendish Square Gardens

HO L L ES ST REE

● CARPISA

● ACCESSORIZE

● RIVER ISLAND ● ALDO

REET

EET

● MOSS BROS

K ST

PLA CE

ST RE ET

WE LBE CK STR

OXFORD STREET

H EN R IET TA

WI GM OR E

Meat Liquor

BROO

● TIE RACK

John Lewis

● UNIQLO ● SWATCH ● PULL & BEAR

HANDEL HOUSE MUSEUM EE T

● MASSIMO DUTTI

House Of Fraser FOSSIL ● SUNGLASS HUT ●

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● SWAROVSKI ● NEXT

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Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Global Blue Refund Ofce

Restaurant

London Underground Station

SAVE UP TO 11% WHEN YOU SHOP TAX FREE.

Join Global Blue for free, explore your city, ďŹ nd the best stores, and save up to 11% on everything you buy. globalblue.com/join

Шоппинг на 11% выгоднее, когда вы совершаете покупки с Tax Free Получите карту Global Blue, наслаждайтесь путешествиями и шоппингом в лучших магазинах, экономя при этом до 11% от стоимости ваших покупок globalblue.ru/join

G U I D E | 77

Oxford Street (South) TOP 3…QUIRKY CAFÉS

ET ● BOOTS ● HMV BUREAU ● DE CHANGE VIVIENNE ● OMEGA ● WESTWOOD

JOHN BELL ● & CROYDEN SUNGLASS HUT ● FOREVER 21 ●

BOND STREET OXFORD STREET

H&M ● INTIMISSI ● SPRING STORE ● THE BODY SHOP ●

PHASE EIGHT ●

JA M E

S ST R EE T

GAP ●

ACCESSORIZE ●

DOROTHY PERKINS/ ● BURTON

West One Centre

● BOOTS ● RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● CARPHONE WAREHOUSE ● CAMPER

JANE NORMAN ● ● SWAROVSKI WATCHES OF FRENCH CONNECTION ● ● SWITZERLAND PENELOPE CHILVERS ●

DU KE ST

RE ET

● ADIDAS ● WATERSTONES ●3 ● THE PERFUME SHOP ● THE HOUR PASSION

Selfridges ST CHRISTOPHER’S PLACE

LES 100 CIELS ●

JAM E S STR EET

P.72

● ARABIAN OUD

DIVERSO ●

P.72

SO NY RE ● CE NT

● GROOM

P.72

NO RT H

ST. OR CH AR D MARKS & SPENCER ●

AU DL EY

ST.

● ZARA

SCHUH ●

● PANDORA

VODAFONE ●

● BERSHKA

CLARKS ●

● RIVER ISLAND

LA SENZA ●

● URBAN OUTFITTERS

CLAIRE’S ● DUNE ● RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● MONSOON ●

PO RT MA N

ST.

OX F O R D S T R E

NEW LOOK ●

PA RK ST

RE ET

NEXT ●

BOOTS ●

ET

MOTHERCARE ● GEOX ●

● PRIMARK

2. Cereal Killer Café While this café might only offer cereal for breakfast, lunch and dinner, 120 types are available, along with 30 varieties of milk and 20 toppings. Take note of the 1980s and 90s memorabilia once you’ve made your choice.

Cereal Killer Café, 139 Brick Lane, London E1 6SB, +44 07590 436055, cerealkillercafe.co.uk 3. Draughts For those who like their morning coffee with a side of Monopoly, this speciality board game café is a must visit. Customers can choose from over 500 games and there are regular tournaments, themed evenings and design workshops.

Draughts, 337 Acton Mews, London E8 4EA, draughtslondon.com 3

W

HOLLAND & BARRETT ●

NO RT H RO

SUPERDRUG ● ANN SUMMERS ●

1. Lady Dinah’s Cat Emporium Following on from the Asian phenomenon, Lady Dinah’s is London’s frst café where rescued cats roam around among the visitors. We recommend the cake at this popular spot.

Lady Dinah’s Cat Emporium, 152-154 Bethnal Green Road, London E2 6DG, +44 (0)20 7729 0953, ladydinahs.com

● BASICS

WALLIS ● TOPSHOP ●

MARBLE ARCH

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

Department Store

London Underground Station

Featured In This Issue

78 | G U I D E

Regent Street & Carnaby Street LEVI’S ●

● NIKETOWN ● TOPSHOP/TOPMAN

H&M ●

OXFORD CIRCUS BENETTON ●

OX FO RD ST

● TEZENIS

KAREN MILLEN ● TED BAKER ● APPLE STORE ● LACOSTE ●

REGENT STREE T

FRENCH CONNECTION ●

LONGCHAMP ●

HOUSE OF ● HANOV ER

HANOVER STREET

MOLTON BROWN ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● MICHAEL KORS ●

RE ET

● KIKO ● OMEGA ● & OTHER STORIES ● KIKI MAKEUP ● ACCESSORIZE ● ARMANI EXCHANGE

● ALL SAINTS ● H&M

T SK I H S T R EE SWAR OVTA LL IZ ED OROUG ● CR YS MARLB

BA NA NABL IC ● RE PU

G R E AT

P.37

Liberty

CAR

● COS FURLA ● ● MISS SIXTY HOBBS ● L STR EET SHA L BARKER ● ● DESIGUAL MAR TUMI ● THE MAKEUP ET ● FORNARINA E CAMPER ● R STORE ● ● GAP ● LAMBRETTA ST KIPLING ● SIZE? ● X P.38 ● PYLONES DO IRREGULAR CHOICE ● CLARKS ● ● PEPE JEANS THE CUBITTS AD M ● WORKSHOP ● DIESEL GOLA ● ● THE KOOPLES JUICY MUJI ● ● COUTURE EL GANSO● THE EAST INDIA COMPANY ● CHURCH’S ● ● STORM WESC ● ● JAEGER THE PEN SHOP ● ● OFFICE FERRARI ● REPLAY ● ● DAVID AND GOLIATH ● HAMLEYS HILFIGER GANT ● VIVIENNE ● LEE DENIM ● WESTWOOD BOSE ● ● G-STAR RAW ● HUGO BOSS MAN ● T VANS ● ● MERC EE ● ESPRIT R HENRI LLOYD ● ST ● MUJI JACK WOLFSKIN ● T ● LEVI’S UI ● HUGO BOSS HAWES & CURTIS ● BEN SHERMAN ● D N ● J CREW T M LEWIN ● LEVI’S ● ● THE NORTH FACE CO ● REISS 7 FOR ALL MAN KIND ● PUMA ● VIVIENNE ● BOOTS ● WESTWOOD THE EXCHANGE GROUP ● SOCCER ● AMERICAN APPAREL CALVIN KLEIN SCENE ● ● EASTPAK ● JEANS PRETTY GREEN ● ● GUESS ● SWEATY BETTY ● ANTHROPOLOGIE ● ILLAMASQUA JCREW ● ● MASSIMO DUTTI .

P.40 CRABTREE & K ST BEA EVELYN ●

NAB

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● RUSSELL & BROMLEY

ZARA HOME ●

STR

PENHALIGON’S ●

EET

TOYWATCH ●

● T M LEWIN ● FOLLI FOLLIE ● THE BODY SHOP ● ZARA

BURBERRY ●

● MANGO

BREWER S TREE T REISS ● SUPERDRY ● CLARKS ●

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

London Underground Station

Featured In This Issue

● AUSTIN REED ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT ● MOSS

Department Store

EET

TRE

● MAPPIN & WEBB

SWAROVSKI ●

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P.35

● TOMMY HILFIGER

GODIVA ●

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购物时节省 高达11%， 享受退税购 物的卓越。

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80 | G U I D E

Regent Street & Piccadilly Circus ● T.M. LEWIN ● FOLLI FOLLIE ● THE BODY SHOP

DINOSAUR DESIGN ● HAM

● ZARA

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FRESCOBAL CARIOCA ● BRUMMELS OF LONDON ●

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● AUSTIN REED ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT CLARKS ● ● MOSS BROS LONDON TEXTILE CO ● ● UNIQLO ● LUSH R E ● COACH HOLLISTER ● GE ● NESPRESSO NT P.40 HUNTER ● S T R ● LOTUS● WOLFORD E REISS ● SUPERDRY ●

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1. Dum Dum Donutterie Dum Dum Donutterie produces artisan doughnuts, which are baked rather than fried, on a daily basis. The zebra, a mixture of plain and chocolate croissant dough that’s flled with chocolate buttercream, is a favourite.

Dum Dum Donutterie, Unit 31 Box Park, 2-4 Bethnal Green Road, London E1 6GY, dumdums.co.uk

PICCADILLY CIRCUS

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3. Bread Ahead The man behind the outstanding doughnuts at St John restaurant, Justin Gellatly now has his own bakery store at Borough Market. Experiment with the doughnut varieties, such as the salted honey comb, and pick up some bread or book onto a baking course while you’re here.

Bread Ahead, 3 Cathedral Street, London SE1 9DE, +44 (0)20 7407 7853, breadahead.com 3

2. 1235 Donuts Chef Brad Macdonald, the man behind the much-loved restaurant the Lockhart, and his wife Molly, serve southern US-style doughnuts once a week at Colombia Road market. Be there early, as these treats are sure to sell out quickly. They are also now available from the Lockhart.

1235 Donuts, Colombia Road E2 7RG; available from 10am on Sundays; the Lockhart, 22-24 Seymour Place, London W1H 7NL, +44 (0)20 3011 5400, lockhartlondon.com

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

London Underground Station

S H O P | 81

BLOOM PERFUMERY Having only been open for a few years, Bloom has quickly become an authority on niche fragrances

and bodycare products. The charming Shoreditch boutique only stocks brands that meet its criteria of craftsmanship, top-quality materials, vision and originality. As a result, you can expect to fnd only the very best perfumes, home fragrances and bath and body products, from the likes of Frapin, Jardins d’Ecrivains and Cire Trudon.

Bloom Perfumery, 4 Hanbury Street, London E1 6QR, +44 (0)20 7247 6148, bloomperfume.co.uk

Covent Garden Market Hall, King Street, Henrietta Street & Southampton Street ● MOLTON BROWN

ORIGINAL PENGUIN ●

JAM ES STR EE T

DIOR ● CHANEL ●

MOLESKIN ● BURBERRY ● LYLE & SCOTT ●

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Covent Garden Market ● OAKLEY

KATHMANDU ●

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THE SUIT COMPANY ●

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OPENING CEREMONY ●

SOUT H AMPTON STREET

● CRABTREE & EVELYN

PALMS ● AFRICA CENTRE

Shake Shack

● LUSH ● L’OCCITANE

● OLIVER SWEENEY ● MELISSA

MOSS BROS ●

Restaurant

Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

● TRESPASS

LADURÉE ●

● AESOP ● JOY

● THE NORTH FACE

RUGBY RALPH LAUREN ●

KING STR EE T

APPLE STORE ●

BURBERRY ● GODIVA ●

● TEA PALACE

COTSWOLD ●

LINKS ● KURT GEIGER ●

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BRIDGES ●

ELLIS BRIGHAM MOUNTAIN SPORTS ●

THE DISNEY STORE ●

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EET

CARAT ● KABIRI ● PIAZZA ● JAMIE’S ●

BUILD-A-BEAR ●

EXE TER STR EE

LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM

QUIKSILVER ●

TAV IST OCK STR

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FRED PERRY ●

PRETTY GREEN ●

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ROYAL OPERA HOUSE

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ET

GEOX ● MARKS & SPENCER ●

Bill’s

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COVENT GARDEN

JOULES ●

● UGG AUSTRALIA

HOBBS ●

● MUJI ● ECCO

● SNOW & ROCK

JA

REISS ● R E ● LES NEREIDES RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● AC G ● ASPINAL OF LONDON GARDEN PHARMACY ● N O L ● REEBOK CALVIN KLEIN ● ● GAP GAP KIDS ● ● H&M ● RABEANCO T JACK WOLFSKIN ● EE ● WHISTLES TR MASSIMO DUTTI ● ● PANDORA LS A ● CANDELA OR THE WATCH HUT ● ● JIGSAW FL COS ● ● ESPRIT BANANA REPUBLIC ● ● TK MAXX BARBOUR ● JACK WILLS ● ● STANFORDS L K BENNETT ●

St. Martins Courtyard

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PAUL SMITH SHOES ● DUNE ● PAUL SMITH ● TRUE CAMPER ● RELIGION ● MULBERRY ● ● TED BAKER

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T FOSSIL ● RADLEY ● ● BOOTS E E● NICOLE FARHI AGNÈS B ● TR THE BODY SHOP ● TINTIN SHOP ● L S● THE SANCTUARY A PAUL & JOE ● ● SKECHERS OR SWAROVSKI ● F L ● AUBIN & WILLS H&M ● ● Y-3 EE

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Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

Featured In This Issue

London Underground Station

Restaurant

S H O P | 83

PRESENT Founded in 2009, Present is now one of London’s foremost menswear destinations. Located on Shoreditch High Street, it’s worth visiting for its stellar selection of longstanding British brands such as Mackintosh, Tricker’s and Nigel Cabourn.

Present, 140 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JE, +44 (0)20 7033 0500, present-london.com

A ● STR SH OL OP OG SO Y LE BI RK ● EN FI LO ST FA OC X K

Monmouth Street & Neal Street

●

T EN OO DE EF O BI AR LL TA O B ST ● V I G I V IN DESTINY ● M ● R P YU S ● ROSSODESIRA F ● S OF OFFICE ● U C ● FO TT LOLLIPOPS PARIS ● ● AR ● MYSTERIES HOTEL CHOCOLAT ● S RH SUPERGA ● NE CA S ● CRAZY PIG DESIGNS P.84 O L POP BOUTIQUE ● ● S EN PY ENERGIE ● ● ORION OC R D LS ● Y R A UA C AC G ● SPEEDO ● M ● COCO DE MER S NT AR RT CE RE PH ● STUART PHILIPS MISS SIXTY ● H O E S B A C NI ● S AC GA L M OR RE ● ● MILLER HARRIS ● E PA Y 5 IZE ? ● TH ● KIEHL’S D AP 8 ● D N P. S I B E L ● UNCONDITIONAL ● E A C A FR IC ● ORLA KIELY SE ES ● ● ER UR RD W NS R ● EF M MURDOCK LONDON ● Z AM YA Y● O S A FO ● O E UE J ● ’ S IR JE LF NGU E OD HT T HU A L DA O P I S E A G ● THE LOFT O N PE F OU M C ● AD OM ● E R D ● WOLSEY T H TO H E OR ST AT ● ALBAM LE ● KE ● BARACUTTA DI ES EL NI ● ● G-STAR RAW SCRIBBLER ● K GO CA NE LA EN S● FRED PERRY ● ● AN AC ● ER ST RE ET M M P T R HA S T ● EA RL ● PE FI D OW T M ● ● VI UL D OU CA ON DA C L AN AN S ST ● ● RL RB ES ID S E U K N B ● SASSOON GU M TE TH ● ● TI LARSSON CA AR T SE E M U . ● & JENNINGS P.20 ● RE HO E DR A ST OR ● BASE TE ● ST E ON O DEZEEN LT TH OE LD E SUPER STORE ● H ● DRESS CIRCLE A S H ● LONDON GRAPHIC CENTRE LS RA LAURA LEE ● POSTE MISTRESS U T JEWELLERY ● NA ● GUDRUN SJODEN TATTY DEVINE ● COVENT GARDEN ● MARKET ●

OROGOLD COSMETICS ● ● BREAKPOINT

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MY CITY: DAVID PHILPOT David Philpot is head chef at the popular restaurant Paternoster Chop House in the City of London.

He talks to Isabella Redmond Styles about his recommendations for the shops and places to visit in the capital

PHOTO: DAUVIT ALEXANDER CC BY-NC-SA 2.0

paternosterchophouse.co.uk

‘The West End and Chelsea are my favourite areas of the city, as there’s always hustle and bustle.

There are some great hidden gems too, like some of my favourite shops: Crazy Pig Designs * p.83 in Soho which is a great jewellery store, Blaqua for

shirts, Sir Tom Baker for tailoring and R Soles in Chelsea for boots.

‘There are so many cool and interesting places to see, and I fnd that it constantly changes, so you’re always fnding something new. I always like to stop

Above (clockwise from lef): Bar Italia; Neal’s Yard Dairy cheeses; Sir Tom Baker suit crafsmanship; I Camisa & Sons

Yard Dairy * p.83 has the best cheese. Gerry’s in Soho is my go-to shop for wines and spirits.

‘My latest local discovery is Hill & Szrok near London Fields; I’m rather obsessed with this small butchers and restaurant.

‘I like to get around town on my Harley Davidson. On my days of I like to park up my bike and walk through the West End – one of my favourite routes is through

PHOTO: © DUNCAN FINDLATER 2010

PHOTO: RDH CC BY-NC 2.0

PHOTO: HARRY DARBY

G U I D E | 85

of at Bar Italia; it’s a great little café, it’s got the best cofee in town and is a good place to sit and chat with friends and watch the world go by. For authentic Italian food, I head to I Camisa & Sons, while I think that Neal’s

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Soho and down to Covent Garden as it’s so full of culture. I also like to stroll down King’s Road.

‘One of my favourite views is from Paternoster Chop House, where you can look up at neighbouring St Paul’s Cathedral.

My tip for anyone visiting the city would be to keep your eyes open – there’s so much to see in London. Explore every corner as you never know what will appear around it – there are so many quirky pop-ups and residencies taking over the capital that might be there one week and gone the next as. It’s constantly changing and that’s no bad thing.’

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BICESTER VILLAGE FEATURED STORES Barbour

Located just one hour away from central London, Bicester Village is surrounded by picturesque countryside and is close to the historic city of Oxford.

Bicester Village plays host to more than 130 boutiques from leading big-name brands and creative up-andcoming labels.

Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6WD, +44 (0)1869 323266, bicestervillage.com Opening times Monday-Friday: 10am-7pm Saturday: 9am-8pm Sunday: 10am-7pm* *On Sundays Burberry, Gucci, Hugo Boss and Polo Ralph Lauren open at 11.30am for browsing and at 12pm for shopping; they close at 6pm. Prada and Versace open from 12pm to 6pm for shopping.

globalblue.com

Founded in 1894, familyowned Barbour remains in north-east England and espouses the values of the British countryside and motorcycle heritage in its beautifully functional clothing.

Oscar de la Renta Add a touch of Hollywood glamour to your wardrobe with a trip to Oscar de la Renta. The designer is known for producing inherently feminine pieces that are red-carpet ready.

SERVICES A suite of services includes the award-winning Bicester Visitor Centre, a children’s play area, valet parking, Hands-free Shopping, instant tax refunds and money change, a contemplation room and personal stylists.

S H O P | 87

PERFECT DAY

HOW TO GET THERE

By Train

10am Salvatore Ferragamo, set up in Italy in 1927, produces exquisite shoes, menswear, womenswear, fragrances and eyewear collections.

There are up to three train services an hour from London Marylebone to Bicester North station, increasing to four in September 2015; the journey can take as little as 42 minutes. The Bicester Village Shuttle Bus will whisk you to your favourite boutiques.

1pm

By Shopping Express® Stop for lunch at Italian restaurant Carluccio’s. The menu includes fresh pasta, risotto and salad dishes, while the atmosphere is lively and relaxed.

3pm An American brand rooted in quality and craftsmanship, Coach is synonymous with the ease and sophistication of New York style.

5pm End your day admiring the stylish and hard-wearing luggage at Samsonite. An item from here will be ideal for transporting your purchases home safely.

The Shopping Express® is the daily* coach service from central London to Bicester Village, one of the world’s premier luxury shopping destinations. *excludes 25 December Ticket prices: Adult return £28 Child return £23 (up to 15 years of age)

By Car The journey from London takes 60 minutes. Take the M40 motorway to exit nine.

Follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester and then follow the signs to Village Retail Park and Bicester Village Outlet Centre. The car park is free. If you are using a satellite navigation system, the postcode is OX26 6WD.

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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

2. Claim

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.

Spend a minimum of £30 and save up to 11% of the purchase price.

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London Heathrow Terminal 1 London Heathrow Terminal 2 London Heathrow Terminal 3 London Heathrow Terminal 4 London Heathrow Terminal 5 London Gatwick North Terminal London Gatwick South Terminal London Oxford Street London Westfelds London Harrods

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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 46: The Cool Quarter

Стильный квартал

Верити Хоган прогулялась по лондонскому кварталу Карнаби-Стрит, который в 1960е стал центром независимой британской моды и не утратил популярности в наши дни В 1966 году Time Magazine объявил небольшую улицу в Сохо сердцем «свингующего Лондона». С тех пор КарнабиСтрит и ее окрестности превратились в эпицентр лондонского стиля. В 1960-70-е здесь можно было встретить музыкантов Rolling Stones, Kinks, Jimi Hendrix и Sex Pistols, которые одевались в независимых бутиках, играли концерты в клубах и просто проводили время в местных globalblue.com

заведениях. Музыка, мода и бунтарский дух формируют особую атмосферу Карнаби с тех пор. В начале 19 века КарнабиСтрит была тихой улочкой с мастерскими, парой магазинов и ресторанов. Ее перевоплощение началось в 1952 году, когда пожар вынудил Джона Стефана оставить помещение на Бик-Стрит и открыть магазин мужской одежды на Карнаби-Стрит. Вскоре вокруг него начали появляться крошечные независимые бутики, где продавалась доступная и модная одежда, востребованная прогрессивной молодежью.

Lord John, Take Six, Gear и I was

PHOTO: JOHN PRATT/KEYSTONE FEATURES/GETTY IMAGES

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Lord Kitchener’s Valet быстро прославились, благодаря запоминающимся, ярким коллекциям. Дизайнеры были готовы на многое, чтобы именно в этом квартале представить свои оригинальные, зачастую даже чрезмерно, идеи. Сегодня Карнаби-Стрит остается одной из самых популярных торговых улиц в столице. Многие бренды открыли здесь свои флагманские бутики, работают рестораны высокого класса, проводятся разнообразные мероприятия. Гости всего мира, как и лондонцы, устремляются на Карнаби в поисках шоппинга и развлечений. Развиваются и отношения этого места с британским музыкальным globalblue.com

миром. В частности, бывший лидер группы Oasis Лиам Галлахер выбрал Карнаби-Стрит для первого магазина своей марки Pretty Green. Многие бренды, прописавшиеся здесь, плотно связаны с музыкальной индустрией: Dr Martens и Great Frog – из их числа. Чтобы поближе познакомиться с музыкальной историей Карнаби-Стрит, имеет смысл скачать приложение Carnaby Echoes. Этот интерактивный гид снабжен материалами и интервью в формате видео и аудио, которые запускаются, когда слушатель проходит мимо особенно интересных мест этого квартала. Здесь сама атмосфера порождает необыкновенные

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идеи: так, многие магазины начали предлагать услугу создания одежды и обуви на заказ. В Dr Martens по индивидуальной мерке готовят легендарную обувь. В концептсторе Paul Smith открыли сервис пожива джинсов, а также на заказ создают эксклюзивные подкладки для костюмов в духе Сохо. Калифорнийская часовая компания Nixon совсем недавно основала свое представительство на НьюбергСтрит, переняв здешний креативный и молодежный дух. В бутике работает «часовой бар» - мастерская, где при участии профессионалов посетители могут создать собственные часы, каких больше нет ни

у кого. В качестве основы используются три модели Nixon – Sentry, Time Teller и 48-20 Chrono. Постоянным клиентам предлагают самим подобрать разнообразные элементы и детали. Из них часовой мастер создает индивидуальные часы, оспорить эксклюзивность которых просто невозможно. Адрес на Карнаби – своего рода знак отличия для бренда. Поэтому многие международные компании выбирают Карнаби-Стрит в качестве своей единственной точки в Великобритании. В их числе – шведский лейбл Monki со своими привлекающими внимание коллекциями, бездонный источник парижского шика ElevenParis и

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испанская марка Lavand. «Мы выбрали Карнаби для открытия нашего магазина, поскольку еще с 1960-х эта улица остается центром притяжения для молодой культуры и уличной моды. Это идеальный вариант для нашего бренда с 54-летней историей, - объясняет Эми Нельсон, менеджер по маркетингу Dr Martens. – Как и Dr Martens, Карнаби продолжает заново открывать себя спустя десятилетия, вместе с тем оставаясь в тренде и сохраняя связь с музыкой». В последние годы в районе Карнаби стало заметно больше заведений для гурманов. На недавно отремонтированной улице Kingly Court работают самые обсуждаемые заведения столицы: пиццерия Pizza Pilgrim, рестораны морепродуктов Wright Brothers Soho и индийской кухни Cinnamon Soho. Ароматы перуанской Лимы гостям и жителям центрального Лондона открывает Señor Ceviche – одно из последних открытий. «Карнаби-Стрит – настоящая находка для нас, делится основатель ресторана Гарри Эдмидс. – Здесь всегда многолюдно, и приходят самые разные люди. Поскольку наша цель – познакомить лондонцев с перуанской кухней, то именно этот район по-настоящему открывает нам такую возможность». carnaby.co.uk globalblue.com

54: Revolution By Design

Революция Дизайна

Бунтарь с Sevile Row Эдвард Секстон раскрывает свой легко узнаваемый стиль в новой линии прет-а-порте, как выяснил Джош Смит Edward Sexton возможно не самое известное имя в мире британской моды, вы не найдете упоминания о нем на рекламных щитах или в журналах по всему миру. Его вклад в английский стиль известен строго в пределах Великобритании, в то время как его когда-то партнер Томми Наттер более узнаваем среди тех, кто знает толк в хорошем костюме. Однако все меняется. Несмотря на свой преклонный возраст, легендарный элитный портной недавно выпустил свою первую коллекцию по индивидуальному заказу, а также линию прет-а-порте, включающую в себя галстуки из кашемира и шелка, шарфы, платки-паше с огуречным и макро принтами и искусно сшитые рубашки с воротником на пуговице и на булавке. «Мне до сих пор нравится портняжное дело – это мое хобби, - объясняет Секстон, покинувший Sevile Row для того, чтобы стать специалистом по мужской одежде в Knightsbridge в 1980-х. – Мне так же нравится ходить на работу в 72, как когда мне было 17. Молодые люди, что работают

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здесь, рассказывают мне, что сейчас модно, хотя я не очень увлекаюсь трендами. Мне нравится элегантная одежда». Секстон, разумеется, сам был когда-то одним из таких молодых людей. Его вклад в лондонский пошив костюмов был революционным. Секстон, специалист по тканям, и Наттер, торговец и стильный стратег, основали Nutters of Savile Row в 1969 году и представили концепт одежды на заказ поколению, которое до этого считало его выбором исключительно «старой гвардии». Партнеры открыли

свое ателье с витринами (неслыханной роскошью в те времена) и пошитыми костюмами с современным очарованием той эпохи – узкая талия, прямые брюки, широкие лацканы с широким углом были отличительными чертами Секстона, которые так хорошо вписались в свингующие 60-е. Мик Джагер, Эрик Клэптон и Твигги числились среди клиентов магазина, а Beatles появились на обложке альбома Abbey Road в одежде от Секстона. «Мы не знали, что то, что мы собирались сделать, вызовет настоящий

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фурор, - говорит Секстон, - Мы просто были двумя молодыми парнями, которым нравилось смотреть в витрины, поэтому мы решили ничем их не заставлять. Мы не знали, что идем против традиции. Но это позволило новым идеям пошива одежды вырваться за рамки привычного. Даже время оказалось удачным – Лондон в те времена приветствовал культ инноваций. Это была удача. Мне очень повезло в жизни, я ничего этого не планировал». Во время работы над созданием костюма на заказ для Пола Маккартни Секстон познакомился с его дочерью Стеллой, которая попросила его оценить пошив одежды, который она представила будучи креативным директором Chloé и инкорпорировала в свой собственный лейбл. Что, в свою очередь, позволило ему стать редким экспертом и женских костюмов; этот талант привлек таких клиентов, как Энни Леннокс и Кейт Мосс. «Вы не можете просто руководствоваться правилами мужского кроя, создавая костюм для женщины. Тогда они будут выглядеть так, словно одели мужской пиджак», замечает Секстон. Что касается прет-апорте, то дизайнер конечно выждал достаточно времени. Так зачем начинать сейчас? Известно, что большинство портных, работающих по заказу, достаточно globalblue.com

скептично относятся к этой идее. «Я всегда восхищался прет-а-порте, особенно, аксессуарами, - возражает Секстон, - Ведь именно ими вы завершаете костюм. В нем нет ничего интересного, пока вы не добавите правильный галстук, например. Конечно я помню те времена, когда пре-а-порте на существовало. Но современные технологии производства помогли ему достичь вершины и обеспечили отличное качество. Я же теперь стремлюсь к новой вершине». Чертами его костюмов на заказ, например, являются высокие проймы, привязанные рукава и расклешённые «юбки» эталоны индивидуального пошива. Итальянские рубашки отличаются таким же вниманием к крою: воротнички созданы так, что они «сидят гордо», как выражается Секстон, поэтому застегнуты они или нет, они всегда выглядят наглаженными. Возможно, Маккартни снова обратится к портному. Хотя интерес звезд не так уж важен для Секстона. «У меня нет времени на звездную лихорадку, - говорит он, - Я просто поставляю лучшую одежду покупателям, независимо от того, кем они являются». edwardsexton.co.uk 88: When you shop the world, shop tax free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free

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Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

美文翻译

46: The Cool Quarter 酷派城区

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум £30 и сэкономьте до 11% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

PHOTO: FELIX CARRETTO

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.

伦敦市中心的一部分自20 世纪 60 年 代就开始集中展现英伦风格，延续至 今依然备受欢迎。Verity Hogan将带 你走进卡纳比街（Carnaby Street）

1 9 6 6 年 ，《 时 代 》杂 志 将 苏 豪 区 （Soho）边缘区域的一小块地方誉 为“摇摆伦敦”的心脏。从那以后，卡 纳比街及其周边的街头巷尾成为了可 以代表伦敦酷劲的震源。在 60 和 70 年代，滚石乐队、奇想乐队、吉米·亨 德里克斯和性手枪乐队都是这里的常 客。他们在卡纳比街上的独立精品店 里购物，在俱乐部里演出，在当地的餐 厅里聚会。音乐、时尚和一丝叛逆的感 觉从来都是卡纳比街体验的一部分。 在19 世纪早期，卡纳比街还是一片 安静的区域，这里除了一些商店和餐 厅还有车间工坊。其转型始于1952

PHOTO: © RAY STEVENSON/REX FEATURES

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年，当时一场大火迫使约翰·史蒂芬 （ John Stephen）将他的男装店从附 近的比克街（Beak Street）搬到卡纳 比街。之后各种各样的小型独立店铺 迅速蜂拥而至，为一个青春洋溢的客 户群提供实惠又时尚的衣服。L ord John, Take Six, Gear和 ‘I was Lord Kitchener’s Valet’等店铺以 其夸张醒目的时装系列而闻名，设计 师们争相将最具原创性，通常也是最 光怪陆离的点子带到这个区域。 如今，卡纳比街成为了伦敦最抢手 的购物街区之一。这里有许多旗舰店、 高级餐厅和多样化的活动，吸引了全 世界的游客，也将成群结队的伦敦人 带到这个区域。它和英国音乐圈的联 系仍然很强：就在此地，前绿洲乐队 主唱连恩•盖勒格（Liam Gallagher） 为他的时尚品牌Pretty Green开设 globalblue.com

了第一家店铺。许多其他与音乐界紧 密相连的品牌，比如Dr Martens 和 Great Frog也在这里设有店铺。与此 同时，Carnaby Echoes，一款互动式 步行游览这片区域的应用程序，可以 让游客们在经过特定的地址时获得影 片和音频采访介绍，给游客们深入了 解这里多样化音乐历史的机会。 为了与这片区域的独特风格一致， 一些驻扎在此地的店铺 提 供定制服 务。逛一逛Dr Martens，买一双定制 的靴子；或者去Paul Smith苏豪区概 念店，这里提供定制牛仔的服务以及 独家的苏豪风格西服里衬。 加州手表公司 Ni xon 是这里最新 开的店铺。位于钮堡街（Newburgh Street）上的这家店铺非常契合卡纳 比街的创意和朝气蓬勃的精神。这里 拥有一个工作坊式的定制吧，顾客们

97 可以设 计 一 款 属于他们自己的独一 无二的手表。展现了卡纳比街独立的 传统，这个定制吧可以让顾客们从各 种各样的零部 件和蚀刻细 节选项中 进行挑选，以创建一款定制的手表。 三个型号的手表可以进行个 性化定 制——Sentry, Time Teller和48-20 Chrono。 一个卡纳比街的地址具有某种特 别魅力。同落户此地的英国品牌一起， 许多国际大公司选择将卡纳比街作为 他们在英国的唯一根据地，其中包括 了瑞典品牌 Monki，其俏皮的时装系 列可以助你在人群中脱颖而出。还有 为卡纳比街带来巴黎式别致风尚的 品牌 ElevenParis，以及西班牙品牌 Lavand。 “我们选择将卡纳比街作为我们 店铺的地址，是因为这里从60 年代开 始就是青年文化和街头时尚的中心， 使之成为我们这一家拥有 54 年历史 品牌的理想选址， ”Dr Martens 的市 场部经理Amy Nelson说。 “就像Dr Martens一样，在过去的几十年间，卡 纳比街在保持自身引领潮流的时尚身 份和与音乐紧密联系的同时也重新改 造了自己。” 近些年来，这 里 提 供的美食 种 类 迅速增加，让卡纳比街成为了一个美 食地标。重新翻修的Kingly Court 拥有伦敦最令人称道的餐厅，从休闲 的披萨店Pizza Pilgrim到海鲜餐厅 Wright Brothers Soho，以及广受赞 誉的印度餐厅Cinnamon Soho。秘 鲁餐厅Señor Ceviche是这里最新开 张的餐厅之一，它将利马市中心的风 味带到了伦敦市中心。 “卡纳比街是 我们明智的选择， ”餐厅创始人 Harry Edmeades说。 “这里总是人头攒动， 吸引了有意思的人群。我们的目标是 让伦敦人可以更加轻松地获得秘鲁美 食和饮品，选址在此让这一切成为可 能。” carnaby.co.uk

54: Revolution By Design 设计革命

萨维尔街（Savile Row）反叛者Edward Sexton将他独树一帜的剪裁风 格带进新的成衣系列里。Josh Sims 报道

Edward Sexton可能并不是一个出现 在全球广告牌和杂志上的英国时尚圈 人物。确实，即便在英国，他对于英伦 时尚的贡献也不易被察觉；对于喜欢 精裁西装的人来说，和Edward Sexton合作过一次的Tommy Nutter更 为人所熟知。不过事情可能要发生变 化了。尽管已经过了退休的年龄，这位 传奇的定制裁缝现在推出了他的第一 个量身定做系列以及一个成衣系列， 后者包括了开司米羊毛和真丝打造的

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七褶领带，佩斯利印花和大色块印花 的围巾和西服口袋方巾，做工巧妙的 有襻领和针孔领衬衫。 “我还是喜欢剪裁— —这是我的 爱好， ”Sexton说。上个世纪80年代， 他离开 伦敦 的萨维 尔街成 为了骑士 桥（Knightsbridge）的一名男装专 家。 “现在，在72岁时又开始工作就跟 我17岁时一样兴奋。在这里工作的年 轻人让我了解到街头时尚的新趋势， 尽管我并不是那么喜欢这种潮流。我 喜欢睿智的高雅穿着。” 当然，Sexton 也曾经是这些年轻 人中的一员。他对于伦敦裁缝界的贡 献是具 有革命性的。布料大师 S exton 和销售员兼时尚远景师的Nutter 在1969年创立了Nutters of Savile Row，并将定制剪裁的观念引入了这 个将定制视为守旧派专属的年代。两 人在萨维尔街开设了自己的店铺，还 给店铺装上了那时候还闻所未闻的橱 窗。他们的西装洋溢着那个时代的风 格——细腰、平腿裤、宽尖角翻领，这 globalblue.com

些都是Sexton的招牌，与摇摆时髦的 60年代相互呼应。Mick Jagger，Eric Clapton 和 Twiggy 都成为了他们的 顾客，甲壳虫乐队在他们《艾比路》 （Abbey Road）那张专辑的封面就 穿着Sexton。 “我们 并不知 道我们 会引起轰 动， ”Sexton 说。 “我们只是两个喜欢 看商店橱窗的年轻人，所以在橱窗里 摆放东西我们也没有多想。我们并不 知道那会挑战传统。不过这却将剪裁 新想法通 过一个非常封闭的世界传 播了出去。时机又恰巧合适——那个 时候的伦敦正在推崇创新。真的是运 气。我的一生都极其走运——没有什 么是计划好的。” 通过为Paul McCartney定制西 装，Sexton 认识了他的女儿 Stella， 因此有机会在 Stella 时任 Chloé 创意 总监期间主持了该品牌的剪裁工作， 并于其后参与了Stella自己的品牌。这 反过来让他拥有了为女士裁剪西装的 罕见专长，这样的才能吸引了A nnie

99 计成为“正襟危坐” ，这样无论扎紧与 否，它们看起来都有一种整洁爽俐的 感觉。也许McCartney会再度光临。 这并不是说 Sexton 太在意名人的兴 趣。 “我可承受不起明星来袭， ”他说， “ 我只是在那里为顾客 提 供最好的衣 服，无论他们是谁。” edwardsexton.co.uk

88: When you shop the world, shop tax free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的 27 万多 家商店消费 时，环 球蓝联（G l o b a l B l u e ）购 物 退 税 服务（ Ta x F r e e Shopping）为您节约购物开销。

Lennox 和Kate Moss的喜爱，她们 纷纷成为了Sexton 的顾客。 “你不能 仅仅只是将传统的男士剪裁手艺嫁接 到女装身上。这样到最后她们就好像 穿了一件男式夹克， ”Sexton注意到。 在成衣方面，Sexton 肯定是迟到 了。那么现在他又为什么这样做了呢？ 确实，大多数的定制裁缝师一直非常 不屑于这样的想法。 “我一直非常欣 赏成衣，特别是配饰。”Sexton说， “是 这些配饰与西装产生了浪漫的化学反 应。西装就只是一件西装——但是举 个例子说，一条合适的领带会让西装 看上去不同，穿起来也有非常不一样 的感觉。我当然记得成衣还没有真正 出现的时候。但是现在生产的进步意 味着它已经真正到达了顶峰，拥有卓 越的质量。现在我的目标是掀起一个 新的高峰。” 比如 说，他 定制 的西装 都 是高袖 孔、拉拢袖和喇叭“裙”——定制的基 准。意大利布料衬衫同样关注工艺： 就像 Sexton 所描述的那样，领子被设

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球 蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税， 您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星 标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们 简单的退税过程：

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联 退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城 市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格 上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点 领取您的退税款。 联系方式： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费 £ 30 并且节约高达购买价格 11%的税。请注意：最终退款将包含 增 值税 总 额，但 是 要 扣 除 管 理手 续 费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单 位收取现金退税手续费。

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‫‪ Jagger‬و‪ Eric Clapton‬و‪ Twiggy‬كم‬ ‫ارتدى فريق ‪ Beatles‬تصاميم ‪ Sexton‬عل‬ ‫غلف ألبوم ‪ .Abbey Road‬يقول ‪Sexton‬‬ ‫ف هذا الصدد‪" :‬ل نتوقّع أن تولّد ابتكاراتنا هذا‬ ‫النفعال‪ .‬ك ّنا مج ّرد شابّي يح ّبان تأ ّمل واجهات‬ ‫الحلت‪ ،‬فلم نتدّد ف تركيب واجهات"‪ .‬ل نعلم‬ ‫أنّنا ك ّنا نتحدّى التقاليد‪ .‬لك ّننا تك ّنا بذلك أن‬ ‫ننش أفكارا ً جديدة عن الخياطة ف عال مغلق‬ ‫إل ح ّد كبي‪ .‬وكان التوقيت ممتازا ً إذ ش ّجعت‬ ‫لندن آنذاك ثقافة البتكار‪ .‬حالفنا الحظّ‪ .‬ولطالا‬ ‫كان الح ّظ إل جانبي ف الحياة‪ ،‬ل أخطّط لي‬ ‫من ذلك‪".‬‬ ‫ص ّمم ‪ Sexton‬بدلت بحسب الطلب لـ‬ ‫‪ Paul McCartney‬فالتقى ابنته ‪Stella‬‬ ‫كل اللبس التي قدّمتها‬ ‫وأشف عل خياطة ّ‬ ‫كمديرة قسم التصميم لدى ‪ Chloé‬ولعلمتها‬ ‫الخاصة‪ .‬بالتال‪ ،‬اكتسب خبة فريدة من نوعها‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ف تفصيل بدلت للنساء؛ وقد جذبت هذه‬ ‫الوهبة زبائن مثل ‪ Annie Lennox‬و‪Kate‬‬ ‫‪ .Moss‬يقول ‪" :Sexton‬ل يكنك أن تعتمد‬ ‫الخاصة بلبس‬ ‫الطرق التقليديّة للخياطة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لتفصل للنساء‪ ،‬إذ ستبدو الرأة وكأنّها‬ ‫الرجال ّ‬ ‫ترتدي ستة رجل‪".‬‬ ‫ف ما يتعلّق بالتصاميم الجاهزة‪ ،‬بالطبع‬ ‫يأت ‪ Sexton‬ف أسفل القائة‪ .‬إذا ً‪ ،‬لَ الدخول‬ ‫ف هذا الجال؟ ف الواقع‪ ،‬هزأ معظم الخ ّياطي‬ ‫تاريخيّاً بهذه الفكرة‪ .‬يقول ‪:Sexton‬‬ ‫وبخاصة‬ ‫"لطالا أحببت التصاميم الجاهزة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الكسسوارات لنّها تج ّمل البدلة‪ .‬فالبدلة مج ّرد‬ ‫بدلة‪ ،‬لكن بتنسيقها مع ربطة عنق ملئة‬ ‫عل سبيل الثال‪ ،‬تبدو مختلفة وتبعث شعورا ً‬ ‫مختلفاً لدى لبسها‪ .‬بالطبع‪ ،‬أذكر عندما ل يكن‬ ‫هناك من تصاميم جاهزة عل الطلق‪ .‬لكن‬ ‫بفضل طرق التصنيع التط ّورة اليوم‪ ،‬وصلت إل‬ ‫أوجها وباتت ممتازة الجودة‪ .‬أسعى حاليّاً إل‬ ‫تحقيق إنجاز جديد‪".‬‬ ‫عل سبيل الثال‪ ،‬تتمتّع كل بدلته النفّذة‬ ‫بحسب الطلب بفتحات أكمم ضيّقة وأكمم‬ ‫مق ّوسة عند نقطة التقائها بالكتاف و"تناني"‬ ‫واسعة وهي من خصائص التصاميم النفّذة‬ ‫بحسب الطلب‪ .‬يستخدم الحرفيّة نفسها‬ ‫ف القمصان الصنوعة من القمش اليطال‪:‬‬ ‫ُص ّممت الياقات "لتعت ّز بنفسها" عل ح ّد قول‬ ‫‪ ،Sexton‬فتبدو مرت ّبة إن كانت مثبّتة أم ل‬

‫تكن‪ .‬قد تعود ‪ ،McCartney‬لك ّنه ل يكتث‬ ‫كثيا ً لهتمم الص ّممة الشهية‪ .‬يقول ف هذا‬ ‫الصدد‪" :‬ل يكنني التقيّد بالنجوم‪ .‬مه ّمتي أن‬ ‫بغض النظر من‬ ‫أوفّر أفضل اللبس للزبون‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫يكون‪".‬‬ ‫‪edwardsexton.co.uk‬‬ ‫‪When you shop the world‬‬ ‫‪،shop tax free :88‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪،‬‬ ‫تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة‬ ‫التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة ‪Tax Free‬‬ ‫لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من ‪270,000‬‬ ‫متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين‬ ‫يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الضيبة من خلل‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك‬ ‫غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن‬ ‫غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا‬ ‫السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب‬ ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو ‪Global‬‬ ‫استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب‬ ‫الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل‬ ‫إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد مكاتب‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫الستداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للت ّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ £30‬وادّخر حتّى ‪11%‬‬

‫من ثن مشتياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ الستداد‬ ‫النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة‬ ‫عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬ف بعض‬ ‫الطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل‬ ‫طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول‬ ‫عل استداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪101‬‬

‫‪Revolution By Design :54‬‬

‫التصميم يفتعل ثورة‬

‫الرت ّد ‪ Edward Sexton‬من ‪Savile Row‬‬

‫يط ّعم مجموعة جديدة من اللبس الجاهزة‬ ‫با يتمتّع به من أسلوب خياطة مميّز‪ ،‬تقرير‬

‫‪Josh Sims‬‬

‫قد ل يكون ‪ Edward Sexton‬إسمً بريطانيّاً‬ ‫ف مجال الزياء‪ ،‬يظهر عل اللّوحات العلن ّية‬ ‫وف صفحات الجلت حول العال‪ .‬ف الواقع‪،‬‬ ‫ل تح َظ مساهمته ف السلوب البيطان نسبيّاً‬ ‫بالنتباه حتّى داخل الملكة التّحدة حيث‬ ‫يشتهر أكث بالنسبة إل محبّي البدلت ال ُتقنة‬

‫إسم ‪ Tommy Nutter‬الذي كان شيكه‬ ‫ذات م ّرة‪ .‬لكن قد تكون المور عل وشك‬ ‫التغيي‪ .‬بالرغم من تخطّيه س ّن التقاعد‪ ،‬أطلق‬ ‫الخ ّياط السطوري مؤ ّخرا ً أ ّول مجموعة ملبس‬ ‫مص ّممة بحسب الطلب بالضافة إل خط‬ ‫ملبس جاهزة مؤلّف من ربطات عنق من‬ ‫الكشمي والحرير وأوشحة وفُ َوط جيب ذات‬ ‫نقوش كبية مزركشة وقمصان منفّذة بحرفيّة‬ ‫تتم ّيز بياقات مث ّبتة بشائط أو بدبابيس‪.‬‬ ‫يقول ‪ Sexton‬الذي ترك شارع ‪Savile‬‬ ‫متخصصاً بلبس‬ ‫‪ Row‬ف لندن ليصبح‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الرجال ف ‪ Knightsbridge‬ف الثمنينات‪:‬‬ ‫"أحب الخياطة ول تزال هوايتي‪ .‬ما زلت أشعر‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بالحمسة نفسها عندما آت إل العمل اليوم‬ ‫بس ّن الـ ‪ 72‬كم كنت أشعر عندما كنت ف‬ ‫السابعة عشة‪ .‬يطلعني الشباب العاملون هنا‬ ‫عم يطرأ عل الزياء ف الشارع بالرغم من عدم‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أحب التصاميم التكلّفة‪".‬‬ ‫استهوائ الوضة‪ّ .‬‬ ‫بالطبع‪ ،‬كان ‪ Sexton‬يوماً أحد هؤلء‬ ‫الشباب وشكّلت مساهمته ف مجال الخياطة‬ ‫ف لندن ثور ًة بح ّد ذاتها‪ .‬تعاون ‪ Sexton‬سيّد‬ ‫القمشة مع ‪ Nutter‬البائع ومبتكر الساليب‬ ‫محل ‪ Nutters of Savile Row‬سنة‬ ‫وأسسا ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ 1969‬وقدّما فكرة الخياطة بحسب الطلب‬ ‫تخل عنها باعتبارها حكرا ً عل‬ ‫إل جيل كان قد ّ‬ ‫الحل ف ‪Savile‬‬ ‫الكبار بالس ّن‪ .‬افتتح الثنائ ّ‬ ‫‪ Row‬وتيّز بواجهاته‪ ،‬إذ ل يكن ذلك مألوفاً‬ ‫آنذاك‪ ،‬وببدلت عصيّة مجارية للموضة إل‬ ‫ح ّد ما؛ ابتكر ‪ Sexton‬الخص الضيّق والسوال‬ ‫التوازي الساقي والستة ذات ط ّية الصدر‬ ‫العريضة فتمشت مع الستيّنات التأرجحة‪.‬‬ ‫فكسب الحل زبائن عل سبيل ‪Mick‬‬

‫‪102‬‬

‫الساحة الوسيقيّة ف بريطانيا‪ :‬فهنا ق ّرر ‪Liam‬‬ ‫‪ Gallagher‬الغ ّني الساس السابق ف فرقة‬ ‫‪ Oasis‬أن يفتح أ ّول متجر لعلمته التجاريّة‬ ‫الختصة بالزياء ‪ Pretty Green‬إل جانب‬ ‫ّ‬

‫عدد من العلمات الرتبطة ارتباطاً وثيقاً بعال‬

‫الوسيقى مثل ‪ Dr Martens‬و‪The Great‬‬ ‫‪ Frog‬التي لها متاجر هنا‪ .‬تجدر الشارة إل‬ ‫تطبيق ‪ Carnaby Echoes‬الذي هو عبارة‬

‫عن جولة ف النطقة سيا ً عل القدام‪ ،‬يتيح‬ ‫للزائر فرصة الطّلع عل تاريخها الوسيقي‬ ‫التن ّوع ويقدّم مداخلت بصيّة وسمعيّة لدى‬ ‫الرور بحاذاة معال ذي أهميّة‪.‬‬ ‫’اشياً مع طابع النطقة الفريد من نوعه‪،‬‬ ‫توفّر بعض التاجر التي وجدت ف هذا الشارع‬ ‫موقعاً لها خدمات بحسب الطلب‪ .‬يكنك شاء‬ ‫جزمة بحسب الطلب من ‪Dr Martens‬‬ ‫أو زيارة التجر‬ ‫التخصص ‪ Paul Smith‬ف‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Soho‬الذي يوفّر خدمة تفصيل جينز بحسب‬ ‫الطلب وبطانة بدلة مستوحاة من ‪.Soho‬‬ ‫من أحدث التاجر التي افتتحت ف النطقة‪،‬‬

‫شكة الساعات الكاليفورنيّة ‪ .Nixon‬يقع‬ ‫التجر ف شارع ‪ Newburgh‬ويتمش بامتياز‬ ‫مع طابع الشارع البتكر الشباب ويقدّم خدمة‬ ‫تصميم بحسب الطلب مستوحاة من مشغل‪،‬‬ ‫حيث يكن الزائر ابتكار ساعته الفريدة من‬ ‫نوعها‪ .‬تعكس هذه الخدمة إرث ‪Carnaby‬‬ ‫الستقل وتتيح للزبائن فرصة النتقاء من‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫مجموعة عناص وقطع منقوشة لبتكار ساعة‬ ‫مص ّممة بحسب الطلب‪ .‬يكن الستفادة من‬ ‫هذه الخدمة ف ثلثة موديلت‪Sentry :‬‬ ‫و‪ Time Teller‬و‪.Chrono 48-20‬‬ ‫لكل الحلت ف شارع ‪ Carnaby‬ميزة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫مع ّينة وإل جانب العلمات التجاريّة البيطان ّية‬ ‫الوجودة هنا‪ ،‬اختارت بعض الشكات العاليّة‬ ‫شارع ‪ Carnaby‬ليكون مركزها الوحيد ف‬ ‫بريطانيا ومنها العلمة السويديّة ‪Monki‬‬ ‫بجموعاتها الرحة الميّزة عن غيها‬ ‫و‪ ElevenParis‬التي تجذب الناقة الباريس ّية‬ ‫إل ‪ Carnaby‬والعلمة السبانيّة ‪.Lavand‬‬ ‫تقول ‪ Amy Nelson‬مديرة التسويق لدى‬ ‫‪" :Dr Martens‬اختنا شارع ‪Carnaby‬‬ ‫موقعاً لتجرنا لا يثّله من ثقافة شبابيّة وموضة‬ ‫شارع منذ الستّينات‪ ،‬ما يجعله مركز تس ّوق‬ ‫تأسست منذ ‪ 54‬سنة‪.‬‬ ‫مثال ّياً لعلمتنا التي ّ‬ ‫عل غرار ‪ ،Dr Martens‬أعاد الشارع ابتكار‬ ‫نفسه عب العقود‪ ،‬محافظاً عل هويّته الجارية‬ ‫للموضة وارتباطه بالوسيقى‪".‬‬ ‫أ ّما الطاعم‪ ،‬فتط ّورت ف السنوات الخية‬ ‫وبات ‪ Carnaby‬مقصدا ً لتناول الطعام‪.‬‬ ‫يض ّم مركز ‪ Kingly Court‬الر ّمم حديثاً‬ ‫بعض أشهر مطاعم العاصمة‪ ،‬من مطعم‬ ‫البيتزا التقليدي ‪ Pizza Pilgrim‬إل مطعم‬ ‫الأكولت البحريّة ‪Wright Brothers‬‬ ‫‪ Soho‬والطعم الهندي الذائع الصيت‬ ‫‪ .Cinnamon Soho‬ومن الطاعم الحديثة‬ ‫ف الشارع الطعم البيوي ‪Señor Ceviche‬‬ ‫الذي يُحض نكهات وسط الدينة ‪ Lima‬إل‬ ‫وسط لندن‪ .‬يقول ‪Harry Edmeades‬‬ ‫مؤسس الطعم‪" :‬كان ‪ Carnaby‬ممتازا ً‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بالنسبة لنا‪ .‬إنّه ناشط عل الدوام ويجذب‬ ‫حشودا ً مرحة‪ .‬هدفنا زيادة نفاذ اللّندنيّي إل‬ ‫الأكولت والشوبات البيويّة وقد ساعدنا‬ ‫موقعنا هنا عل تحقيق ذلك‪".‬‬ ‫‪carnaby.co.uk‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪The Cool Quarter :46‬‬

‫الشارع الثي للهتمم‬

‫حتضنت أحد أجزاء وسط لندن السلوب‬ ‫البيطان ف الستّينات وما زالت تتمتّع بالشهرة‬ ‫نفسها اليوم‪ .‬تقوم ‪ Verity Hogan‬بجولة ف‬ ‫شارع ‪Carnaby‬‬ ‫سنة ‪ ،1966‬أطلقت مجلّة ‪Time‬‬ ‫‪ Magazine‬عل منطق ٍة صغية عل طرف‬ ‫‪ Soho‬لقب "قلب لندن التأرجحة"‪ .‬ومذّاك‪،‬‬ ‫بات شارع ‪ Carnaby‬ومحيطه يثّل مركز‬ ‫لندن اللفتة‪ .‬ف خلل الستّينات والسبعينات‪،‬‬ ‫تردّد إل النطقة كل من ‪Rolling Stones‬‬ ‫و‪ Kinks‬و‪ Jimi Hendrix‬و‪Sex Pistols‬‬ ‫ليتس ّوقوا ف محلتها الستقلّة ويقدّموا عروضاً‬ ‫ف نواديها ويأكلوا ف مطاعمها الحليّة‪ .‬ولطالا‬ ‫شكّلت الوسيقى والزياء ونفحة من التم ّرد‬

‫جزءا ً من التجربة ف ‪.Carnaby‬‬ ‫ف بداية القرن التاسع عش‪ ،‬كان شارع‬ ‫‪ Carnaby‬منطقة هادئة تض ّم مشاغلً وبعض‬ ‫الحلت والطاعم‪ .‬بدأ يشهد موجة تح ّول سنة‬ ‫‪ 1952‬عندما اضط ّر ‪ John Stephen‬أن‬ ‫ينقل محلّه الخاص بلبس الرجال من شارع‬ ‫‪ Beak‬الجاور إل شارع ‪ Carnaby‬نتيجة‬ ‫حريق‪ .‬سعان ما تبعته الكثي من الحلت‬ ‫الصغية الستقلّة لتقدّم ملبس مجارية‬ ‫للموضة وبأسعار مدروسة إل زبائن يافعي‪.‬‬ ‫فاشتهرت متاجر مثل ‪ Lord John‬و‪Take‬‬ ‫‪ Six‬و‪ Gear‬و‪I was Lord Kitchener’s‬‬ ‫‪ Valet‬بجموعاتها الحيويّة وتنافس الص ّممون‬ ‫عل إحضار أكث الفكار ابتكارا ً وجرأ ًة إل‬ ‫النطقة‪.‬‬ ‫ما زال ‪ Carnaby‬اليوم من أشهر شوارع‬ ‫التس ّوق ف لندن ويض ّم مجموعة من التاجر‬ ‫الرئيس ّية والطاعم الفاخرة وبرنامجاً متن ّوعاً‬ ‫من الناسبات التي تجذب ز ّوارا ً من حول العال‬ ‫ولندنيّي‪ .‬ول يزال يحافظ عل علقة وطيدة مع‬

104

POSTCARD

PENHALIGON’S Established in 1870, Penhaligon’s was originally a hairdressing salon located near the former Turkish baths on Jermyn Street in central London. Its founder, William Penhaligon, was inspired by the aromas of the baths and he soon diversifed into fragrances. Still made and bottled in England, Penhaligon’s scents are created using the fnest ingredients, such as jasmine globalblue.com

and hand-squeezed bergamot, and the company has long been a supplier to the British royal family.

The perfumer eagerly explores the latest fragrance technology, so each time you open one of Penhaligon’s ribbon-wrapped bottles, you’re experiencing British tradition alongside modern developments. th Penhaligon’s, 125 Regent Street, London W1B 4HT, +44 (0)20 7434 2608, penhaligons.com * for map go to page 80