SHOP London Style SS17

LONDON | 伦敦 | ЛОНДОН |

LONDON Style Edition Spring/Summer 2017

Page 38 UTILITY CHIC: why London’s menswear designers are getting practical

Regent Street 205 Regent Street - London Westfield Stratford City 2 Montifichet Road - London Brent Cross Shopping Centre, Prince Charle Dr - London Westfield White City Ariel Way, Stepherd’s Bush - London Bluewater Upper Rose Gallery Bluewater Greenhithe - Kent www.kipling.com

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London | 49 Jermyn Street | Tel. +44 20 7629.24.95 | 28 Sloane Square | Tel. +44 20 7823.50.44

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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

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Welcome to London

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Discover the best of this cosmopolitan capital with SHOP. Read about the enduring appeal of men’s workwear on page 38, as well as where to enjoy the typically British dish of fish and chips, and much more.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14% when shopping in the UK. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in London. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims contributes to publications that include the Financial Times, Independent, Observer, Wallpaper and Esquire. His latest book is Icons of Women’s Style, published in April 2015. For this issue, he writes about one of the most important and enduring menswear trends of recent years. globalblue.com

Ruairidh Pritchard Ruairidh Pritchard, Global Blue’s commercial editor, studied journalism in Glasgow, where he was editor of his university’s awardwinning magazine for two years.

Ruairidh is a fan of all things Swedish and writes about fashion, art and culture for a variety of publications and websites in his spare time.

ILLUSTRATION: EDWARD TUCKWELL; PHOTO: (RIGHT) MICHAEL CHAPMAN

Edward Tuckwell Edward Tuckwell created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP London Style. His vibrant artwork has previously been commissioned by Condé Nast, the Guardian and Wired, among others. His clever use of colour makes him a perfect illustrator for this cover, based on our feature about the workwear trend on page 38. It shows two stylish men on one of London’s bridges against a backdrop of some of the city’s most distinctive buildings.

Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Egyptian cotton shirts. Italian wool suits. Classic casualwear.

ONliNE NOw. iN-STORE SiNcE 1898.

OXFORD STREET 388 Oxford Street W1C 1JT

JERMYN STREET 103–108 Jermyn Street SW1Y 6EQ

tmlewin.co.uk

REGENT STREET 126 Regent Street W1B 5SD

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Edward Tuckwell Contributor Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion assistant Rebecca Rhys-Evans News editor Ginger Rose Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworker Milkha Lala Artworker Samantha Junak Artworking assistants Shirley Lau, Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Natalie Schroeter AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio services production coordinator Inga Abramian

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

GLOBA L BLU E U K Vice president sales Northern Europe Richard Brown UK managing director Gordon Clark Head of key accounts Peter Blake UK sales manager Sarah Farag UK marketing sales manager Kimberly Urbaniak Marketing account manager Patrick Prior International key account managers Barbara Badelt, Richard Harvey Key account managers Leonie Adams, Ramesh Juneja, Jerry Junkere, Massi Maier, Victoria Taylor Account managers Dianeth Cedeno-Gonzalez, Enda Griffin, Holly Kippin, Marisa Sanchez, Dezelle Villanueva Global Blue UK, 11th Floor, GW2, Great West House, Great West Road, Brentford TW8 9HU, UK +44 (0)20 8232 1900 Regional tourist office Visit Britain London and Partners Advertising enquiries Contact Kimberly Urbaniak: kurbaniak@globalblue.com

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2017 Global Blue

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CONTENTS PRODUCTS

NEWS 29 Shop Window One store not to be missed in London 30 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

FEATURES Cover story: Just The Job Workwear is one of the most important and enduring menswear trends of recent years. Josh Sims investigates its unique appeal 44 In Focus: Fred Perry One of Britain’s greatest sportsmen lies behind the creation of one of the country’s most iconic fashion brands, as Ruairidh Pritchard discovers

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EXPERIENCE 50 Table Talk Fish and chips offers an authentic taste of Britain, says Hannah Lewis

GUIDE 55 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of London, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights

ESSENTIALS 76 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS 77 美文翻译 80 Русский Перевод 89

SOUVENIR 90 The essential item to bring home

Above: a piece from Raf Simons’ collaboration with Fred Perry for spring/summer 2017

PHOTO: COURTESY OF FRED PERRY

18 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from London this season 20 My Favourites Bamford Watch Department founder George Bamford reveals his top tips for spring/ summer 2017 22 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 26 Street Style Our pick of London’s best dressed for spring/summer 2017

N E X T D I R E C T. C O M ENJOY FREE DELIVERY WORLDWIDE* & S H O P TA X F R E E I N T H E U K *Exceptions apply.

A minimum order value may apply to the free deliver y offer. See nextdirect.com for full details.

CH ECK O UT

RISING STAR Up-and-coming footwear designer Michael Azu is inspired by architecture and spiral forms, as is evident in his latest collection.

These cut-out sandals in cobalt blue and white with pops of cherry red are chic and pretty, and are made in calf leather by skilled artisans. London-born Azu’s creations are sculptural, modern and feminine, and have often been Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 76

described as wearable art. Having studied at Cordwainers, Central Saint Martins and New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, Azu is a highly accomplished maker. His footwear is designed in London and produced in Italy. fm Michael Azu Helix II sandals, £442, Wolf & Badger, 32 Dover Street, London W1S 4NE, +44 (0)20 3627 3191, michaelazu.com

T I M B ER L A N D.C O M

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MY FAVOURITES: GEORGE BAMFORD George Bamford launched Bamford Watch Department (BWD) in 2013. It specialises in customising sports watches from some of the world’s leading luxury brands. His keen eye for detail and design is also evident in his fashion photography and in his collaboration with his mother Carole (founder of the Daylesford Organic farm shops and Bamford organic clothing line), the Bamford Grooming Department, which offers a range of products for men. He spoke to Fani Mari about his insider picks for spring/summer 2017 bamfordwatchdepartment.com 1. ‘Gucci always sets fabulous trends as its designs are all about happiness and a personal unique vibe.

The brand breathes positive air into the fashion world and just makes you feel good’

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Gucci, 34 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4QL, +44 (0)20 7629 2716, gucci.com

Private White VC Suede Rainrider jacket, £1,250, Private White VC, 73 Duke Street, London W1K 5NR, +44 (0)20 7629 9918, privatewhitevc.com

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 76

PHOTO: (1) © GORUNWAY.COM

2. ‘I adore my Private White VC jacket and cannot wait to be kitted out by the amazing guys there soon. I love what they do’

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4. ‘My signature fragrance is my own Bamford Grooming Department Cologne, which has notes of vetiver and leather’

PHOTO: (3) MARK BLOWER

Bamford Edition 1 Cologne, 50ml, £90, Bamford, 169 Draycott Avenue, London SW3 3AJ, +44 (0)20 7589 8729, bamfordgroomingdepartment.com

3. ‘I always enjoy spending time at Dover Street Market, which carries so many brands with must-have items.

I like Comme des Garçons’ own labels as they do some great jackets and shirts’

5. ‘I love my Bamford-customised Feld & Volk iPhone 6 cover, and when my case comes for the 7 I will start using my new phone. I love the case so much I am still using my iPhone 6’

Dover Street Market, 18-22 Haymarket, London SW1Y 4DG, +44 (0)20 7518 0680, commedesgarcons.com

Feld & Volk iPhone case, from £4,000, Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL, +44 (0)20 3626 7020, feldvolk.com

globalblue.com

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MULTI-PRINT From embroideries to stripes and gingham, mix and match patterns for the perfect summer look

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1. Mango top, £39.99, Mango, 106-112 Regent Street, London W1B 5RU, +44 (0)20 7434 3866, mango.com

3. Bimba y Lola skirt, £125, Bimba y Lola, 15 South Molton Street, London W1K 5QR, +44 (0)20 7499 2011, bimbaylola.com

2. Shaun Leane earrings, £145, Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), shaunleane.com

4. Hobbs shoes, £119, Hobbs, 217-219 Regent Street, London W1B 4NH, +44 (0)20 7437 4418, hobbs.co.uk

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 76

PHOTO: (3) BIMBA Y LOLA

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POOLSIDE PANACHE Keep cool under the hot summer sun at one of the city’s outdoor pools

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1. Heidi Klein swimsuit, £190, Heidi Klein, 174 Westbourne Grove, London W11 2RW, +44 (0)20 7243 5665, heidiklein.com

3. Dune sunglasses, £48, Dune, 490 Oxford Street, London W1C 1LF, +44 (0)20 7493 1731, dunelondon.com

2. East necklace, £19, East, 16 The Piazza, London WC2E 8HD, +44 (0)20 7836 6685, east.co.uk

4. Topshop bag, £50, Topshop, 214 Oxford Street, London W1W 8LG, +44 (0)844 848 7487, topshop.com

globalblue.com

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COOL KHAKI

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Earthy tones in high-quality materials take you through spring and summer 1

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1. Master & Dynamic MH40 headphones, £369, The Conran Shop, 55 Marylebone High Street, London W1U 5HS, +44 (0)20 7723 2223, masterdynamic.co.uk

4. Gant jacket, £295, Gant, 184-186 Regent Street, London W1B 5TW, +44 (0)20 7042 9680, gant.com

2. Barbour backpack, £149, Barbour, 73-77 Regent Street, London W1B 4EF, +44 (0)20 7434 0880, barbour.com

5. Office trainers, £34.99, Office, 47-49 Oxford Street, London W1D 2EE, +44 (0)20 7494 4421, office.co.uk

3. House of Fraser hat, £15, House of Fraser, 318 Oxford Street, London W1C 1HF, +44 (0)344 800 3752, houseoffraser.co.uk

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 76

PHOTOS: (1) AARON CAMERON MUNTZ; (2) J BARBOUR & SONS/BRIAN YOUNG PHOTOGRAPHY

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NEW STARS Enhance your routine with the latest beauty, cosmetic and fragrance launches

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PHOTOS: (2) PACKSHOT4; (4) TOPTANA.COM

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1. Zelens Extreme Velvet lipsticks, £32 each, Space NK, 27 Duke of York Square, London SW3 4LY, +44 (0)20 7730 9841, zelens.com

4. Om Skincare Miracle Serum, 30ml, £68.50, Space NK, 40 Hans Crescent, London SW1X 0LZ, +44 (0)20 7581 2518, omskincare.co.uk

2. Emma Hardie Plump & Glow hydrating facial mist, 90ml, £35, Harvey Nichols, 109-125 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7RJ, +44 (0)20 7235 5000, emmahardie.com

5. Ormonde Jayne Jardin D’Ombre fragrance, 120ml, £195, Fortnum & Mason, 181 Piccadilly, London W1A 1ER, +44 (0)20 7734 8040, ormondejayne.com

3. Swell Ultimate Curl & Bounce hair tonic, 200ml, £25, Atherton Cox, 18 New Cavendish Street, London W1G 8UR, +44 (0)20 7487 4048, swell.co.uk

globalblue.com

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Poppy Delevingne and the rest of London’s fashion elite mix textures with heavily ruffled blouses, puffer jackets and beaded, embroidered dresses on the streets this season

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

STREET ST YLE

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globalblue.com

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SHOP WINDOW

FURLA LOVES LONDON Italian leather accessories brand Furla recently opened a new store on Brompton Road in London’s exclusive Knightsbridge area.

With 280 square metres spread across two floors, the boutique carries the brand’s bags and accessories for women, with the men’s collection on the lowerground floor along with footwear.

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 76

An elegant yet warm interior design, featuring satin-finish elements in champagne hues, opaque glass and wood, invites visitors to explore the brand’s world. Founded in 1927, Furla celebrates its 90th anniversary this year, giving everyone all the more reason to visit the new London store. grc Furla, 71-73 Brompton Road, London SW3 1DB, +44 (0)20 7581 6942, furla.com

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FLOWER POWER Orla Kiely has added to her successful home fragrance range with the launch of the Geranium scented candle (200g, £25) and reed diffuser (pictured; 200ml, £32). These blend the earthy fragrance of geranium with essential oils of eucalyptus and clary sage to create a fresh, calming and distinctive scent.

The packaging is also inspired by the designer’s love of geraniums, and features a bold Square Flower print in a striking red colour palette. With a burn time of around 50 hours for the natural wax candle and a life of up to three months for the diffuser, either of these two pieces would make a long-lasting reminder of your visit to London. km John Lewis, 300 Oxford Street, London W1C 1DX, +44 (0)20 7629 7711, orlakiely.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 61

HEAD OVER HEELS Ugg’s sandals for spring/ summer 2017 come in several desirable designs and colourways.

Exuding effortless luxury, the Delaney (pictured, £110) features a platform for extra height; the Kari, available in matt shades or gold, can be slipped on with ease; while the sporty Laddie is for those who prefer a strappy style. Comfort is assured thanks to Ugg’s signature memory-foam insole and flexible outsole. km Ugg, 10 Glasshouse Street, London W1B 5AR, +44 (0)20 7112 7771, ugg.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 66

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 76

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SOUND BITE

PHOTO: (RIGHT) JOAKIM EKLÖF

STREET APPEAL Last winter Swedish fashion label & Other Stories opened its third London store in one of the city’s best-known shopping spots, opposite Selfridges on Oxford Street. The new branch covers 600 square metres over three floors, and is brimming with the brand’s ready-to-wear collections, along with jewellery, beauty products, accessories, bags and shoes. Launched in 2013, & Other Stories has become known for its diverse fashion collections, which offer great attention to detail and quality at an affordable price, so visitors are sure to find something worth snapping up. km & Other Stories, 431-433 Oxford Street, London W1C 2DA, +44 (0)20 3426 0580, stories.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 62

globalblue.com

Audio specialist Urbanears is perhaps best known for its Plattan headphones, which were launched in 2009. The model recently received an update, with a number of improvements ranging from enhanced frequency response and clearer definition through to ear cushions with additional isolation.

It’s not only about enriched sound; a three-dimensional hinge gives the Plattan 2 extra flexibility for a better fit. Despite these changes, the essence of the popular model has been left untouched with signature details – such as the fabric cord or the ZoundPlug that allows you to share music with friends – still very much in evidence. grc Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), urbanears.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 62

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IN THE SWIM British brands Prism and Mother of Pearl have joined forces for spring/summer 2017 to create a capsule collection that is perfect for beach holidays or poolside lounging. Across the bathing suits, bikinis, beachwear and espadrilles in the collection, swimwear brand Prism’s love of minimalist cuts and luxury fabrics is paired with the prints for which fashion label Mother of Pearl is so well known.

The signature aesthetics of both brands come together in pieces such as the pictured swimsuit (£300) to create a chic look. grc Selfridges, 400 Oxford Street, London W1A 1AB, 0800 123400 (UK), +44 (0)113 369 8040 (international), motherofpearl.co.uk, prismlondon.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 62

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 76

CONSCIOUS CLOTHING Ethical fashion brand Gandys opened a new store in London’s Spitalfields last autumn. The globes, maps, souvenirs and trunks dotted throughout the store are an echo of the strong travel ethos that pervades the brand, taken from founders Rob and Paul Forkan’s life experiences.

The brothers established Gandys in honour of their parents, who died in the tsunami that hit Sri Lanka in December 2004, and 10% of its profits go to Orphans For Orphans, the brothers’ charitable organisation that helps children in the country affected by the disaster. grc Gandys, 105C Commercial Street, London E1 6BG, +44 (0)20 7183 1176, gandyslondon.com

SEE THE NEW SPRING/SUMMER 2017 COLLECTION IN STORES NOW

ECCO OXFORD STREET 445 Oxford Street, W1C 2PP London +44 207 629 10 16 ECCO OXFORD CIRCUS 261 Oxford Street, W1C 2DE London +44 207 495 47 96 ECCO COVENT GARDEN 36 Long Acre, WC2E 9JT London +44 207 379 51 45 ECCO KENSINGTON 102 Kensington High Street, W8 4SG London +44 207 938 25 83

eccoshoesuk.com

ECCO WESTFIELD Westfield Shopping Centre, Unit 1114, W12 7GD London +44 208 735 18 30 ECCO WIMBLEDON Centre Court Shopping Centre, The Broadway, SW19 8ND, London +44 208 947 86 65

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BEAUTY CALLS Cosmetics fans will appreciate Benefit’s new They’re Real collection, which includes options for lips and eyes. Double The Lip is a lipstick and liner in one and comes in eight glamorous shades. For eyes, the Duo Shadow Blenders consist of two harmonious neutral eyeshadows, with a long-wearing formula, and the custom ShadowBlender applicator. Apply duos such as Bombshell Brown (pictured; £18.50) for a wide-eyed look. grc

A PERFECT 10 London-based menswear label Albam, which has four standalone stores dotted across the city, is celebrating its 10th anniversary.

The brand’s spring/summer collection is based on the works of British artists Richard Long and Peter Lanyon: this is articulated through simple cuts, a pale colour Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 76

House of Fraser, 318 Oxford Street, London WC1 1HF, +44 (0)344 800 3752, benefitcosmetics.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 61

palette and the brand’s customary utilitarian vibe. Key pieces include selvedge denim items in white and black, the Gunney smock in ecru or faded pink and a new take on the brand’s classic fisherman’s smock. grc Albam, 23 Beak Street, London W1F 9RS, +44 (0)20 3157 7000, albamclothing.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 63

THE

PERFECT TREATMENT Expertly crafted

Looking after London’s Health & Wellbeing HEALTHCARE . PHARMACY . SKINCARE

johnbellcroyden.co.uk

36 | N E W S

STEP FORWARD Duke & Dexter has opened its first flagship store, in the vibrant area of Covent Garden, a perfect setting for this British brand.

Founded in 2014, the footwear label is now renowned for its loafers that are handmade in Sheffield in a wide range of colours, patterns and textures. A visit to the brand’s flagship is the perfect opportunity to discover the latest collection as well as styles that are exclusive to the store. There’s also the option to take it a step further at the Bespoke Bar, where you can design your own personalised pair of shoes.

And if shopping is leaving you in need of a break, you can recharge and relax over a cup of coffee in the lounge area. grc

PURE PRECISION Launched in March, Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Botanical Cleansing Oil gently removes make-up, dirt, oil and sunscreen without leaving a residue.

The product is designed to be applied to dry skin, before being emulsified with water and then rinsed off completely for a thorough cleanse. Key ingredients include squalane, evening primrose oil and lavender essential oil: these not only cleanse, but also soften, hydrate and soothe. grc Kiehl’s, 29 Monmouth Street, London WC2H 9DD, +44 (0)20 7240 2411, kiehls.co.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 67

Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 76

Duke & Dexter, 16 Earlham Street, London WC2H 9LN, +44(0)20 7836 3063, dukeanddexter.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 67

IN BRIEF Swedish brand Axel Arigato opened a flagship store on Soho’s Broadwick Street last autumn. Step inside to discover its footwear, accessories and clothing for both men and women

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HAPPY FEET At Oliver Sweeney importance is placed on every single element in the process of making footwear, right down to the smallest detail, and the brand works closely with artisans in a small family-run factory in Italy. This season one of the most renowned cobbling construction methods, the Goodyear welted shoe, is approached in a completely new manner. Oliver Sweeney has given its brogues a new base in the form of a single-thickness buffalo leather sole. Soft and durable, buffalo leather ensures a more comfortable feel as well as giving the shoe a contemporary look.

The buffalo-sole styles, which include the pictured Pembroke, start from ÂŁ229. grc

Oliver Sweeney, 10 Henrietta Street, London WC2E 8PS, +44 (0)20 7240 4549, oliversweeney.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 65

THE SIMPLE LIFE Having started out as a loungewear and nightwear label, based in west Wales, Toast is now a fully fledged lifestyle brand that promotes a mindful existence. The product range is no longer just about clothing, but encompasses accessories and household items as well. For spring/summer 2017 Toast has created a collection that is relaxed and effortless. Garments are made of quality materials including linen, cotton twill and alpaca, and feature simple cuts and beautiful prints, as seen in items such as the Srinagar paisley print dress (ÂŁ140) pictured here. grc globalblue.com

Toast, 191 Westbourne Grove, London W11 2SB, +44 (0)20 7229 8325, toa.st

PHOTO: XXXX

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Above: xxxxxxxxxx

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JUST THE JOB

PHOTO: XXXX

Workwear is one of the most important and enduring menswear trends of recent years. Josh Sims investigates its unique appeal

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Opposite: Barbour spring/summer 2017

‘I

love dressing in a workmanlike way,’ says the acclaimed menswear designer Nigel Cabourn. ‘These are clothes that are designed for purpose, which is something fashion seems to have lost sight of. Workwear is built to last, too. It has an honesty to it. It makes me feel like I’m ready for anything.’

Cabourn is certainly not alone.

While visitors to his London store pay handsomely to buy into his best-in-class utility and combat trousers, chambray shirts, parkas and other functional and military-inspired clothing, other men will be picking clothing of a similar look and feel in many of the city’s leading independent menswear stores. From Couverture

Above: Nigel Cabourn store

& The Garbstore in the west via Oi Polloi and American Classics in the centre to Son Of A Stag in the east, London’s most fashion-forward designers and boutiques are embracing workwear as an aesthetic for modern life.

While catwalk fashion has wended its flashier way, recent years have seen menswear retrench into more practical garb, typically inspired by that designed for specialist use and often from British manufacturers of long standing – think Barbour and Berghaus. It’s all the more noticeable in London, where the trend arguably found its beginnings in the city’s vintage markets and artistic communities.

As consumers tire of fast fashion,

PHOTO: BEN BENOLIEL

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PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): BEN BENOLIEL;© JOANNA HENDERSON/LONDON AND PARTNERS/VISITLONDON.COM;© GORUNWAY.COM

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workwear appeals for its durability, practicality and seasonless style.

‘I think one factor is the sheer quality of the goods. You’re buying a product that lasts, that you can actually wear in and see get better over time,’ argues Jake Hardy, the owner of Number Six boutique, which counts American workwear brand Filson among its bestsellers.

‘Throwaway fashion is not for everyone. But I don’t think this way of dressing for men is in itself a trend.

It’s more an old way of dressing that’s been rediscovered.’

Of course, the clothing’s toughness and practicality also gives men a chance to enjoy a form of dressing up. It plays to a deeper desire to wear obviously masculine Above (clockwise from top left): Nigel Cabourn store; a vintage-clothing stall at Spitalfields Market; Barbour spring/summer 2017

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Above: The Real McCoy’s store in Covent Garden

As consumers tire of fast fashion, workwear appeals for its practicality and seasonless style many of the garments were designed in menswear’s golden age from 1930 to 1960. It is also because, stylistically, many are associated with historic events, such as the conquest of Everest or polar expeditions. ‘Whether it’s a greatcoat or an M-65 [US military field jacket] or just a pair of khakis, there’s an undeniable “Boys’ Own” adventure,

PHOTO: ANTON RODRIGUEZ

clothing that, while offering practical benefits – comfort, protection from the elements, plenty of pockets – references trades and activities your typical desk-dweller never actually experiences in real life. ‘A lot of men’s fashion is quite feminine now, in that sleek, slick way. Work and military clothing is an escape route from that,’ argues Lewis Hull, whose Real McCoy’s boutique in Covent Garden specialises in upgraded, Japanesemade reproductions of classic work and military garments. ‘These are clothes that have achieved a kind of cult status. There’s a nostalgia to them,’ says Hull.

History is a huge influence on workwear. In part this is because

PHOTOS (FROM LEFT): © CULTURA CREATIVE 2012/LONDON AND PARTNERS/VISITLONDON.COM; JIMA/JIMAGRAPHY.COM

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“boys and their toys” quality to this kind of clothing,’ says Steve Davies, creative director of The Content Store. Here, visitors will find workwear from the likes of Red Wing and Carhartt WIP: established brands known for their no-nonsense approach to great menswear.

But, as well as looking back, this new workwear also looks forward.

There is a proliferation of young brands offering modern updates of these tried-and-tested pieces, and again many of them are British.

Universal Works, Tender, Albam and Old Town are among these, while the likes of Engineered Garments, Arpenteur and Post Overalls come from further afield

but are no less worth exploring.

‘Workwear has become a subtle, lo-fi look, one that you can expect to filter down to the high street,’ explains Eddie Prendergast, founder of the seminal Duffer brand and owner of Present in Shoreditch, which sells original French workwear brand Vetra. ‘But the vintage examples and the modern quality makers offer something else [beyond high-street interpretations]. There’s a kind of insider appreciation to the detail and fabrics used in the best examples which has made it collectible. And, of course, in a way this is all a recognition that ultimately all menswear comes from work or military origins, even tailoring. It’s not just a passing trend.’

Above (from left): street art in Shoreditch; Engineered Garments spring/summer 2017

PHOTO: COURTESY OF FRED PERRY

I N FOCUS :

FRED PERRY One of Britain’s greatest sportsmen lies behind the creation of one of the country’s most iconic fashion brands, as Ruairidh Pritchard discovers

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Above: a piece from the Fred Perry x Raf Simons spring/summer 2017 collection

R

arely has an item of clothing become so representative of a brand, or so ingrained in the culture of its home nation, as the Fred Perry polo shirt. This simple garment began life as a piece of revolutionary sportswear and has evolved over its 65 years to become an undeniable symbol of British style.

Born the son of a cotton spinner in Stockport in north-west England, Fred Perry became world table tennis champion in 1928 at the age of just 19. He then switched to lawn tennis, and went on to become Britain’s most successful male player, winning Wimbledon three times and

becoming one of the world’s most famous sportsmen in the process.

It wasn’t just Perry’s sporting achievements that caught the world’s attention, but also his personal style.

Considered one of the most elegant men of the era, Perry is quoted as saying, ‘I was generally regarded as the best dressed player of my time.

I’m a great believer in trying to look the part.’ Perry’s dress sense has left as strong a legacy as that of his sporting achievements, and his trademark polo shirts remain one of the most prominent staples of the British wardrobe.

The polo shirt that would come

Above: Fred Perry in action at the Wimbledon lawn tennis championships

PHOTO: COURTESY OF FRED PERRY/GETTY IMAGES

46 | F E AT U R E S

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF FRED PERRY

S H O P | 47

to be the Fred Perry brand’s signature was launched in 1952. It was an immediate success in the sporting world and beyond, and in the decades that followed it was adopted by members of Britain’s most important subcultures. These tribes were heavily linked to music, and as their stars and fans embraced the Fred Perry polo wholeheartedly, the shirt became a mainstay of the British music scene. The shirt was worn by mods and punks during the 60s, found fans in the second wave of British ska music in the 80s, dressed the Brit-pop fanatics of the 90s and still held its place in the soul and R &

B-infused pop scene of the first decade of the 21st century. The brand’s laurel-wreath logo became one of the most instantly recognisable in British fashion.

Today the brand bearing the sportsman’s name is one of the biggest in the UK, and produces numerous collections each season.

For spring/summer 2017 the brand’s Authentic collection celebrates the classic Fred Perry designs that made the brand famous, giving key pieces a modern reinterpretation. The monochrome chequerboard motif, made famous by the brand’s popularity during the 60s and 70s

Above (clockwise from top left): Fred Perry M2 and M3 polo shirts from the brands archive; two pieces from the Fred Perry x Raf Simons spring/summer 2017 collection

within the ska music scene, is reinterpreted in the brand’s refined womenswear pieces.

This season’s Reissues collection uses the brand’s archives as a starting point, refreshing some of the brand’s very first designs, including the M2, M12 and M3 Fred Perry shirts. The M3 is arguably the most famous of the original designs, being the first one-colour Fred Perry shirt.

Designed and worn by the man himself, it is a piece of British fashion history that perfectly fuses sporting functionality and wearability thanks to its classic, simple, streamlined silhouette and fit. To this day the M3 Above: Fred Perry x Bella Freud Lovers sweatshirt

shirt is still made in Leicester in the East Midlands region of England.

This season also sees two exciting designer collaborations for the brand. The first is with British knitwear designer Bella Freud.

Highlights of the range include sweaters emblazoned with the word ‘Lovers’ in Freud’s signature handwriting. Freud has brought her strong aesthetic to the brand through the use of leopard print, wide collars, embroidered gold stars and a laurel-wreath logo realised in the colours of the Jamaican flag.

Jamaican reggae, she explains, was a great influence while she was

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF FRED PERRY

48 | F E AT U R E S

S H O P | 49

The brand’s logo is one of the most instantly recognisable in British fashion working on the collection.

A collaboration with Belgian designer Raf Simons, the newly appointed creative director of Calvin Klein, completes an exciting season for Fred Perry. Simons’ range marries two worlds of inspiration: the British heritage that runs through everything Fred Perry, and the European modernism that has become one of the designer’s signatures. Featuring a bold yet minimal palette of red, black and white, the collection is built around the classic Fred Perry shirt. It includes touches of denim on the collar, cuffs and yoke of the piqué

shirts, and the inclusion of a special washed-denim and jersey pocket placed just above the iconic laurel-wreath logo. Together these elements add a new and distinctive edge to a core Fred Perry design.

With its ability to celebrate its rich heritage while remaining modern, and its unending affinity with youth cultures and beyond, it’s no wonder Fred Perry remains one of the UK’s leading brands. It’s amazing to think that the British style and cultural landscape has been changed for good by a young tennis champion from Stockport who simply wanted to ‘look the part’

Above (from left): Fred Perry x Raf Simons spring/summer 2017; designer Bella Freud

50 | E X P E R I E N C E

TABLE TALK

Fish and chips is a British classic and a must-try dish on any trip to London, says Hannah Lewis

In the early 1860s, the first recorded fish and chip shops opened in Britain. Exactly who was the first person to combine fried fish – a popular dish brought to London from Spain and Portugal – with fried chipped potatoes is a matter of debate. What’s not in doubt is the immediate success of the dish.

By 1910 there were over 25,000 fish and chip shops across the UK. This simple dish had become a national obsession.

Fish and chips, also known as a fish supper, is one of the most quintessentially British dishes to be found. But it is not something that people make at home. This is a meal to be purchased from a proper fish and chip shop – also known as a ‘chippy’ – and to be savoured while piping hot. Flaky white fish in light and crispy batter, thick cut chips with crunchy outsides and fluffy centres … all that’s needed is a little sauce for dipping. Tartare sauce and mushy peas are traditional, though many prefer theirs with a side order of gravy or curry sauce. Whatever your selection, you can be sure of a satisfying meal when it comes to this British classic. globalblue.com

PHOTO: MÓNICA R. GOYA

NORTH SEA FISH London’s black-cab drivers are world famous, as is the test they have to pass to qualify. Called ‘the Knowledge’, it requires drivers to memorise hundreds of streets, routes and notable locations across the whole of London. That the North Sea Fish restaurant is one of these locations is a testament to its standing as a London institution. A family business, the seafood specialist serves far more than just fish and chips, but the comforting dish is certainly a highlight of the menu. Choose from battered cod, haddock, plaice, skate or rock salmon served with bottomless chips and homemade tartare sauce; here you can guarantee that everything is cooked simply and to perfection.

North Sea Fish, 7-8 Leigh Street, London WC1H 9EW, +44 (0)20 7387 5892, northseafishrestaurant.co.uk

POPPIE’S Poppie’s is one of the best known and most respected independent fish and chips restaurants in London, and the recently opened Soho location is the third for this much-loved chain. Run by Pat ‘Pop’ Newland, an East Ender with over 60 years of expertise, Poppie’s offers a classic fish and chips experience in a modern setting. Choose from soft and flaky cod or haddock – sourced fresh from London’s famous globalblue.com

Billingsgate Market each day – in a light and crispy batter.

Other chip shop classics on offer include battered sausages, fishcakes and even jellied eels (not for the faint of heart).

Chips are thick and perfectly crisped with fluffy centres.

Order slices of thick buttered bread to create another British classic: the chip butty.

Poppie’s, 55 Old Compton Street, London W1D 6HW, +44 (0)20 7734 4845, poppiesfishandchips.co.uk

PHOTOS: MÓNICA R. GOYA

52 | E X P E R I E N C E

THE SUMMERHOUSE Few restaurants can boast as picturesque a location as The Summerhouse, which borders the Grand Union Canal in London’s Little Venice. Its popularity means it is now open year round, but spring and summer are the perfect time to sample the venue’s delicious seafood.

Everything on the menu is truly

delicious, from clam chowder to scallops, calamari to smoked salmon, but the IPA-battered haddock gets our vote every time.

Crisp and light, it comes with delicious chunky chips, tartare sauce and a serving of minted mushy peas.

The Summerhouse, opposite 60 Blomfield Road, London W9 2PA, +44 (0)20 7286 6752, thesummerhouse.co

ROCK AND SOLE PLAICE Established in 1871, Rock and Sole Plaice claims to be the third fish and chip shop ever to open in London. The choice of fresh and responsibly sourced fish is larger than in most such establishments, with lemon sole and skate on the menu alongside the more classic cod, haddock and plaice.

All of them are delicious, as are the traditional thick-cut chips. Pick up a pot of mushy peas or curry sauce to complete the experience.

Rock and Sole Plaice, 47 Endell Street, London WC2H 9AJ, +44 (0)20 7836 3785, rockandsoleplaice.com

G U I D E | 55

GUIDE

PHOTO: HARSHIL SHAH CC BY-ND 2.0

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to London with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the best street-food markets to stunning fashion stores. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/london.

Above: St Paul’s Cathedral, with its distinctive dome, seen from the Millennium Bridge

56 | G U I D E

SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOS: DAVID ILIFF CC BY-SA 3.0; HAZE ALIEU; KIRSTY WELSH; SALLY ASHLEY-COUND

‘Whether you’re looking for luxury shopping, worldclass arts and culture or spectacular food, London has it all’ – Sally McIlhone, SHOP’s deputy editor

globalblue.com

S H O P | 57

Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopcontent.

Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

58 | G U I D E

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TOP 3 ... STREET-FOOD MARKETS Mercato Metropolitano Specialising in the finest Italian cuisine from top small-scale producers, this covered market sells everything from the perfect pizza to the creamiest burrata cheese.

Mercato Metropolitano, 42 Newington Causeway, London SE1 6DR, +44 (0)20 7403 0930, mercatometropolitano.co.uk

Dinerama, 19 Great Eastern Street, London EC2A 3EJ, streetfeast.com Maltby Street Market A weekend-only hotspot, Maltby Street offers an array of street food, quirky bars and stalls selling the freshest produce. Ideal for people watching, it gets busy, so arrive early to make the most of it.

Maltby Street Market, Ropewalk, 41 Maltby Street, London SE1 3PA

Dinerama Dinerama offers eight bars and nine street-food vendors. It’s open on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights only; be sure to arrive before 7pm to get in for free and grab a seat before the crowds descend.

Oxford Street (North) CURRYS PC WORLD ●

WATERSTONES ● THE PERFUME SHOP ● ACCESSORIZE ●

ST RE ET

MOSS BROS ● ESPRIT ●

AMERICAN APPAREL ●

● LUSH ● H SAMUEL ● MARKS & SPENCER VERO MODA/ ● JACK & JONES ● MUJI

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RETRO LONDON SWAROVSKI COOLWAY THE ORANGE SHOP FLIGHT CENTRE

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THE PHOTOGRAPHERS GALLERY PHOTO: STREET FEAST

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● NEXT ● NEW LOOK ● RIVER ISLAND

SCHUH ● URBAN OUTFITTERS ●

● ZARA ● BERSHKA

Global Blue Retailer

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Restaurant

Shopping Centre/Mall

S H O P | 61

Oxford Street (Central) RT LA ND ST

R EE T

MISS SELFRIDGE ●

● VEL-OH

TOPSHOP/TOPMAN ● NIKETOWN ●

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● MANGO ● GAP ● BUREAU DE CHANGE

● TEZENIS

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Hanover Square

● EE

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PLA CE

● PULL & BEAR

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HANDEL HOUSE MUSEUM

● MASSIMO DUTTI

House Of Fraser

Meat Liquor

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John Lewis

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JACKSON + RYE Book a table at Jackson + Rye for a taste of east-coast America.

Offering impeccable service as well as delectable food, the bistro is also known for its cocktails.

Choose from starters of truffled mac and cheese or salt and pepper squid and follow up with a tasty burger, barbecued ribs or a perfectly cooked steak.

London Underground Station Featured In This Issue

Jackson + Rye, 30 Old Jewry, London EC2R 8EB, +44 (0)20 3597 5153, jacksonrye.com

Department Store

Global Blue Refund Office

62 | G U I D E

Oxford Street (South) ● BOOTS ● HMV BUREAU ● DE CHANGE VIVIENNE ● OMEGA ● WESTWOOD

JOHN BELL & CROYDEN ●

Ivy Café

SUNGLASS HUT ● FOREVER 21 ●

BOND STREET OXFORD STREET

H&M ● INTIMISSI ● SPRING STORE ● THE BODY SHOP ●

PHASE EIGHT ●

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West One Centre

● BOOTS ● RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● CARPHONE WAREHOUSE

ACCESSORIZE ●

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DU KE ST

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Selfridges ST CHRISTOPHER’S PLACE

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CLARKS ●

TED BAKER If you’re looking for some new luggage, Ted Baker’s suitcases are a chic option. The latest range, Gem Gardens, features a black case adorned with a design where flowers bloom with diamonds and pearls. Rose gold-coloured handles, wheels and zips add an extra touch of luxury. The interior is just as beautiful, with the brand’s signature Birds of Paradise print on the lining, and it is also designed for the most efficient packing. With a fiveyear guarantee, this stunning suitcase is sure to become your ultimate travel companion.

Ted Baker, 9-10 Floral Street, London WC2E 9HW, +44 (0)20 7836 7808, tedbaker.com

● RIVER ISLAND

LA SENZA ●

● URBAN OUTFITTERS

CLAIRE’S ●

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Regent Street & Carnaby Street LEVI’S ●

● NIKETOWN ● TOPSHOP/TOPMAN

H&M ●

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KAREN MILLEN ● TED BAKER ● APPLE ● LACOSTE ●

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MOLTON BROWN ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● MICHAEL KORS ●

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MISS ● SIXTY L STR EET SHA L ● TOMS ● DESIGUAL MAR TRADITIONAL ADIDAS ORIGINALS ● ● FORNARINA ● WEATHERWEAR E R ● GAP ● LAMBRETTA ST THE MAKEUP STORE ● X ● PYLONES O D SIZE? ● ● PEPE JEANS THE CUBITTS AD IRREGULAR CHOICE ● M ● WORKSHOP ● DIESEL GOLA ● ● THE KOOPLES MUJI ● JUICY THE EAST INDIA COMPANY ● CHURCH’S ● ● COUTURE EL GANSO● ● STORM WESC ● THE PEN SHOP ● ● COACH ● OFFICE FERRARI ● ● DAVID AND GOLIATH REPLAY ● ● HAMLEYS LULU LEMON ● VIVIENNE ● LEE HILFIGER WESTWOOD BOSE ● DENIM ● ● G-STAR RAW MAN ● T ● HUGO BOSS ● MERC E VANS ● RE T ● ESPRIT ● MUJI JACK WOLFSKIN ● HENRI LLOYD ● TS I U ● HUGO BOSS HAWES & CURTIS ● D ● LEVI’S MACKINTOSH ● N BEN SHERMAN ● ● TRUE RELIGION T M LEWIN ● CO LEVI’S ● ● THE NORTH FACE ● REISS 7 FOR ALL MAN KIND ● VIVIENNE PUMA ● ● BOOTS ● WESTWOOD THE EXCHANGE GROUP ● SOCCER ● AMERICAN APPAREL CALVIN KLEIN SCENE ● ● JEANS ● EASTPAK P.34 ALBAM ● ● GUESS ● SWEATY BETTY ● HUNTER J CREW ● ● ILLAMASQUA ● ANTHROPOLOGIE ● MASSIMO DUTTI CRABTREE & EVELYN ●

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● THE BODY SHOP ● ZARA ● MANGO

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● AUSTIN REED ● VIYELLA ● CHARLES TYRWHITT ● MOSS BROS

Featured In This Issue

64 | G U I D E

12 HOURS IN LONDON 10am Breakfast near Leicester Square at Indian-style café Dishoom. It offers an intriguing twist on the classic English cooked breakfast, as well as naan bread rolls with bacon, sausage or egg, among other options.

12pm Head to Covent Garden, one of London’s best shopping spots. The main market area has luxury brands such as Dior, chocolatier Godiva, perfumer Penhaligon’s and beauty brand Aesop. Find more nearby, including H&M, Cos and Ugg on Long Acre and Paul Smith and Camper on Floral Street.

4pm Spend the afternoon exploring the National Gallery.

Its impressive collection contains more than 2,300 artworks including Van Gogh’s Sunflowers and many other notable pieces from names such as Caravaggio, Canaletto, Monet and Botticelli.

7pm Pass the evening on the South Bank. This riverside spot offers views of the Thames, a host of eateries and notable attractions such as the British Film Institute, the National Theatre and the London Eye. There are also plenty of places to just people watch as the sun sets.

Regent Street & Piccadilly Circus ZARA HOME ● PENHALIGON’S ●

TOYWATCH ● BURBERRY ●

● RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● TM LEWIN ● FOLLI FOLLIE ● THE BODY SHOP ● ZARA

B

● MANGO

T D EE YAR TR HAM DINOSAUR DESIGN ● RS W E● WOOLRICH E Ham Yard Hotel R BRUMMELS OF LONDON ●

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● FRESCOBOL CARIOCA

● ONCE MILANO

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B CH ARB INA OU R● S PA RIS HOP ● MI KI ● WH IT T AR D● C MA AMP R Z IO O ● E XC OF L ELLENC OND H AW ON E ES & CURT ● T H E S IS ● T IN G ●

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LAIRD & CO ● AUSTIN REED REISS ● HATTERS● ● VIYELLA SUPERDRY ● ● CHARLES TYRWHITT ● MOSS BROS CLARKS ● ● UNIQLO DENMAN STREET LONDON TEXTILE CO ● ● LUSH ● STEFANEL RE HOLLISTER ● G E ● COACH N T ● NESPRESSO HUNTER ● S T R ● LOTUS ● WOLFORD E

OSPREY LONDON ●

London Underground Station

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Covent Garden Market Hall, King Street, Henrietta Street & Southampton Street

KURT GEIGER ●

JAM ES STR EET

DIOR ● CHANEL ●

LADURÉE ●

MOLESKIN ● BURBERRY ● LYLE & SCOTT ●

Shake Shack

● LUSH ● L’OCCITANE

Covent Garden Market ● OAKLEY CLUB MONACO ● NIGEL CABOURN ●

● VILEBREQUIN KATHMANDU ●

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Rules ● OLIVER SWEENEY

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PALMS ●

AFRICA CENTRE

S O UTHAMP TON STREET

● CRABTREE & EVELYN

OPENING CEREMONY ● THE SUIT COMPANY ●

● MELISSA

MOSS BROS ●

PHOTO: GRAVITY ROAD

DESIGN MUSEUM London’s shrine to all things design moved into a new home last year, and is now more inspiring than ever. The striking 1960s building is three times bigger than the previous location, so there’s more room for the museum’s world-beating collection of contemporary design in every form. Don’t miss the stylish caférestaurant, bar and shop.

Place Of Interest

Restaurant

Design Museum, 224-238 Kensington High Street, London W8 6AG, +44 (0)20 3862 5900, designmuseum.org

Featured In This Issue

● TRESPASS

RUGBY RALPH LAUREN ●

● AESOP ● JOY ● BRORA

● THE NORTH FACE

BURBERRY ● GODIVA ●

KING STR EE T

APPLE ●

● TEA PALACE

COTSWOLD ●

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BRIDGES ●

ELLIS BRIGHAM MOUNTAIN SPORTS ●

THE DISNEY STORE ●

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CARAT ● KABIRI ● PIAZZA ● JAMIE’S ●

BUILD-A-BEAR ●

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LONDON TRANSPORT MUSEUM

QUIKSILVER ●

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PRETTY GREEN ●

PAPERCHASE ●

ROYAL OPERA HOUSE

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Long Acre ELLIOT RHODES ●

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Bill’s

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JOULES ● HOBBS ●

P.30

● UGG ● MUJI

● ECCO REISS ● R E ● LES NEREIDES RUSSELL & BROMLEY ● AC● ASPINAL OF LONDON G GARDEN PHARMACY ● N LO ● REEBOK CALVIN KLEIN ● ● ORIGINAL PENGUIN ● GAP GAP KIDS ● ● H&M ● RABEANCO JACK WOLFSKIN ● ET ● SNOW & ROCK

St. Martin’s Courtyard

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PAUL SMITH SHOES ● DUNE ● PAUL SMITH ● TRUE ● ACCESSORIZE CAMPER ● RELIGION ● ● RITUALS MULBERRY ● ● TED BAKER P.62 ● MONSOON T RADLEY ● E E NICOLE FOSSIL ● ● BOOTS AGNÈS B ● R T ● FARHI S TINTIN SHOP ● L ● THE SANCTUARY R A● AUBIN & WILLS THE BODY SHOP ● PAUL & JOE ● O ● SKECHERS F L ● Y-3 H&M ● SWAROVSKI ●

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Global Blue Retailer Restaurant

Non-Global Blue Retailer

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A ● STR SH OL OP OG SO Y LE BI RK ● EN FI LO ST FA OC X K

Monmouth Street & Neal Street

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T EN OO DE EF O BI AR LL TA O B ST ● V I G I V IN DESTINY ● M ● R U Y SP ● ROSSODESIRA F ● S OF OFFICE ● U C ● FO TT LOLLIPOPS PARIS ● ● AR ● MYSTERIES HOTEL CHOCOLAT ● S RH SUPERGA ● NE MALIN + GOETZ ● CA S ● CRAZY PIG DESIGNS O L ● POP BOUTIQUE ● S EN PY ENERGIE ● ● ORION OC R D LS ● Y R A UA C AC G ● SPEEDO ● M ● COCO DE MER T FARAH ● S N AR RT CE RE PH ● STUART PHILIPS MISS SIXTY ● H O E S B A C NI ● S AC GA L M OR RE ● MILLER HARRIS ● E ?● PA Y TH ● KIEHL’S P.36 ZE SEF D I AP ● S O L● N UNCONDITIONAL ● ED J E ● A R A F IC ● ORLA KIELY IB SC E ● ER UR SE WE PEP ● ● M MURDOCK LONDON ● S Z AM UE ● AN FO U E ● JE HU N T OL ING S ● THE LOFT O D A X A OM ● E NI M C R ● D ● WOLSEY OR TO T H E ST A ● ALBAM ● KE LE ● BARACUTTA DI ES EL NI ● ● G-STAR RAW SCRIBBLER ● K ET GO CA NE LA M ST RE EN S● FRED PERRY ● ● EA RL HA AN AC ● ER M P T R S T ● ● PE FI D OW T M ● ● VI UL OU N REE T CA ND DA C L N AM ST TO S LA ● ● BA E A R LH DS ES S ER UR KI N B ● SASSOON GU M TE TH ● DUKE & DEXTER P.36 ● ● TI LARSSON CA AR T SE E M U . ● & JENNINGS ● RE HO E DR A ST OR ● BASE TE ● ST E ON O DEZEEN LT TH OE LD E SUPER STORE ● H ● DRESS CIRCLE A S H ● LONDON GRAPHIC CENTRE LS RA LAURA LEE ● POSTE MISTRESS U T JEWELLERY ● NA ● GUDRUN SJODEN TATTY DEVINE ● COVENT GARDEN ● MARKET ●

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VILAGALLO Spanish fashion label Vilagallo has a stunning store on South Molton Street. Step inside to discover distinctive interpretations of feminine tailoring, with details such as embroidery and eclectic colour combinations and prints. The jackets are a signature item – and an essential buy. The interior’s touches of gold and delicate illustrations on the walls add a touch of whimsy to your shopping experience.

Café

Featured In This Issue

Vilagallo, 36 South Molton Street, London W1K 5RH, +44 (0)20 7629 4742, vilagallo.es FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 61

68 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP WESTFIELD LONDON

WESTFIELD STRATFORD

Offering two floors and hundreds of stores, Westfield London is the perfect place to spend a day. Head to The Village where you’ll find the crème de la crème of international luxury brands, including Burberry, Prada and Gucci.

Westfield London, Ariel Way, London W12 7SL, +44 (0)20 3371 2300, uk.westfield.com

Located next to the Olympic Park, the sister centre to Westfield London boasts the best brands and shops, including British department store John Lewis, Apple and a host of watch brands, from Breitling and Omega to Swatch.

Westfield Stratford City, Montfichet Road, Olympic Park, London E20 1EJ, +44 (0)20 8221 7300, uk.westfield.com

OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-10pm Sunday: 12pm-6pm

KINGS CROSS ST.PANCRAS STATION PADDINGTON STATION

Westfield London SHEPHERD’S BUSH STATION

EUSTON

Westfield Stratford City STRATFORD INTERNATIONAL STRATFORD STATION

CHARING CROSS STATION LIVERPOOL STREET STATION WATERLOO STATION

OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-9pm Saturday: 9am-9pm Sunday: 12pm-6pm

HOW TO GET THERE To Westfield London

By London Underground There are four Underground stations located within walking distance of Westfield London: Shepherd’s Bush and White City on the Central line and Wood Lane and Shepherd’s Bush Market on the Hammersmith & City and Circle lines.

By taxi A taxi from central London takes 10 minutes.

Outlet Village

To Westfield Stratford City

By London Underground The Central and Jubilee lines run a regular service from central London to Stratford station.

By train Trains run from Kings Cross-St Pancras and Liverpool Street to Stratford International station.

By taxi A taxi from central London takes 25 minutes.

London Underground Station

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WESTFIELD LONDON SERVICES

tax refunds • On-site parking • Valet Hands-free shopping • Same-day hotel delivery •

WESTFIELD STRATFORD CITY SERVICES

PHOTOS: G-FONNE PHOTOGRAPHY

Currency exchange • Personal • Hands-freeshopping shopping • Same-day hotel delivery •

70 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP BICESTER VILLAGE Find your fabulous at Bicester Village, with more than 130 boutiques, including dunhill, Temperley London and Marni, savings of up to 60% and instant tax refunds.

Bicester Village, 50 Pingle Drive, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6WD, +44 (0)1869 366266, bicestervillage.com

BICESTER NORTH BICESTER VILLAGE STATION Bicester Village

A41

M1

M40

A41

M1 M40

M25 M40

LONDON

HOW TO GET THERE By car Bicester Village is just 60 minutes from London by car. Exit the M40 motorway at Junction 9 and follow the A41 for two miles towards Bicester. From Bicester the route is clearly signposted. Look for Bicester Village Outlet Centre. Parking is always free.

Train Station

By Shopping Express ® The Shopping Express ® coach service runs direct from central London to Bicester Village, with two daily* return services, collecting from selected London hotels. Adult return £28/child return £20 (ages 5-12). *excludes 25 December

Outlet Village

By train Travel from London Marylebone direct to Bicester Village Station in as little as 46 minutes, with two services an hour. Travel from Birmingham Moor Street or Birmingham Snow Hill to Bicester North, where a shuttle bus will take you to the Village.

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SERVICES

MY PERFECT DAY

Arrive in style with Valet Parking or the Shopping Express ®; stay connected with free Wi-Fi; shop effortlessly with the Hands-free Shopping and Luggage Drop services; and earn rewards with your chosen frequent flyer programme. You can even claim your tax refund in the Village rather than at the airport and purchase more than 40 currencies.

SHOP’S COMMERCIAL EDITOR RUAIRIDH PRITCHARD DESCRIBES HOW HE WOULD SPEND A PERFECT DAY AT BICESTER VILLAGE

DON’T MISS ...

SHOPPING DAY EXPERIENCE This exclusive package includes: • Shopping Express® return tickets from central London • An additional 10% saving on the outlet price in boutiques • Hands-free Shopping – you do the shopping, we do the carrying • Lunch or dinner • A £50 Bicester Village Gift Card to spend in your favourite boutiques Treat yourself to the perfect day out for £99 per adult. To book, please visit BicesterVillage.com/shoppingpackage.

FABULOUS FOOD

PHOTO: (PROFILE) © MICHAEL CHAPMAN

Bicester Village has a selection of delectable restaurants and cafés. Whether you’re looking for a speciality coffee, a gourmet breakfast or a three-course dinner, we’ve got just the place for you.

12pm Start your day at Marni, a favourite of fashion devotees for its experimentation in texture, colour blocking and asymmetry.

1pm L’Atelier showcases the finest luxury jewellery, watches and diamonds. Discover its selection of high-end brands.

2pm Recharge with the amazing flavours of the Far East at itsu, with 64 delicious, freshly prepared dishes to choose from.

3pm American brand Coach is synonymous with the ease of New York style.

4pm Visit dunhill, a definitive name in men’s luxury goods.

5pm farmshop restaurant & cafe, created by Soho House & Co for Bicester Village, serves local British and seasonal food.

As London’s first ever dedicated shopping street, Regent Street is the home of flagships and firsts. From global fashion retailers to the very best in beauty, wellbeing and fitness, alongside some of the city’s most coveted food and drink destinations, Regent Street is the original home of quality, heritage and style. regentstreetonline.com

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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

2. Claim

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

Spend a minimum of £30 and save up to 14% of the purchase price.

Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Office Details

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

London Heathrow Terminals 1,2,3,4 & 5 London Gatwick North Terminal London Gatwick South Terminal International Currency Exchange, 339 Oxford Street, London W1C 2JB International Currency Exchange, Westfield London, Ariel Way, London W12 7GF No 1 Currency, City of London Information Centre, St Paul’s Churchyard, London EC4M 8BX Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL Topshop, 214 Oxford Street, London W1W 8LG 80 86

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TRANSLATIONS

美文翻译 38: Just The Job 工 装 轮回

PHOTO: ANTON RODRIGUEZ

工 装 是 近 年来 最 重要 、最 持久 的男 装 趋势之一。 Josh Sims带 您 一 起 探 寻 其 独 一 无二的魅力 “我 喜 欢 穿成 工人 的 模 样， ”著名男 “这 些 装设 计 师 Nigel Cabourn 表 示， 服 装 的设 计 是有目的性 的，可是 这一 点似乎已 经 被 时尚界忽视了。工 装设 计 的初 衷 是 持久 耐 穿。工 装 很实 在， 穿上它，我 就 觉 得自己已 经准 备好 面 对一 切了。” Cabourn当然 不是 个 例。男士 们 去 他 的伦敦 门店 一 掷千 金，将 他 最 上 乘 的实用作 战 裤、钱 布雷 （chambray）衬 衫 和 野 战 风 衣等 多 功 能军旅 风 服 饰 收 入 囊中，还 可以 去市内其他领 先潮 流 的男 装 店，挑 选

globalblue.com

外观 和 感 觉 相 似 的服 装。从西 部 的

Couverture & Garbstore到市中心的 Oi Polloi和 American Classics，再到 东 部 的 Son Of A Stag，走在 伦敦 时 尚前 沿 的设 计 师 和 精品店 都 将工 装 视作 现代 生活 的 审美 标 杆。 近 年 秀 场虽一如 既 往 地 缤 纷 璀 璨，男 装设 计 却回归 精 简。它们 的灵 感 通常来自实用的设 计，也常常 源于 一些 英国老 牌 服 装 店— — 例如 巴伯 尔（ Barbour）和贝 豪斯（ Berghaus） 。这 在 伦敦 更 为显而易见，大概 起源 于市内的复古 市 场和 艺 术 社 区。 随 着消费 者对 快 时尚审美 疲 劳，工 装 便 凭 借其 耐用、实用、四季 通用的特点 大 获青 睐。 “我 认 为，商品质 量 是 一 个重 要 的因素。买来 的产品 要能 穿 得 长久，耐磨 损，而且要越 穿 越合 身。”Number Six精品店 的主 人 Jake Hardy说。美国工 装 品牌 菲尔 森（ Filson）是其店内的 畅 销品牌 之

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一。“不是 每 个人都适合‘一次性 时 尚’。但我 认 为，对于男士而 言，这 种 着 装 方 式 本身 算 不上 是 一 种 新 的 趋势，它更像是 复古路 线 被 重 新发 掘。” 当然，硬 朗和 实用的工 装 也能 给 予男士 一 种 装 扮 的乐趣 和 机会。它 满 足了人们 深层 的 渴 望，既 要穿出鲜 明 的阳刚之气，又要兼 顾 实用 — —它保 暖 舒 适，抵挡 风雨，配 有许 多口袋。 这一 切，让 案头工作 者 看到了自己在 现实 生活中从 未 真正体 验 过 的行业 和 活 动。“很多男性 时尚现 在已 经相 当女 性化了，既 时 髦 又 花 哨。工 装和 军装 风 的服 饰 便 是 一 条 免俗之 路.”

Lewis Hull表 示。他 在考文 特花 园 （Covent Garden）拥 有一家 Real McCoy 精品店，专门售卖由日本制 造 的 升 级 版 复古产品，重现 经 典 与 军 旅 风。“这 些 服 装已然 深 受小众 追 捧， 饱 含 怀旧之情。”Hull说。 历史因素对于工 装 有着巨大 的 影 响。部 分原因在于，许 多服 装 是在 1930年至 1960年 的男 装 黄金 时代 设 计 的。此外，许 多服 装 的风 格与历史 事 件 相 关 联，比如 征 服 珠 穆 朗 玛 峰 或 极 地 探 险。“无论 是 大 衣、M- 65 （ 美国军用 野 战 夹 克）还 是 卡其 裤，这 类 服 装中总饱 含‘男 孩 本色’探 险、 ‘ 男 孩与玩 具’等 抢 眼 的特 色。”The Content Store 创 意 总 监 Steve Davies表 示。红翼（ Red Wing）和 卡 哈 特（Carhartt）等工 装皆在该 店 有售，这 些品牌以打造实用上 品男 装 而知名。 不过，工 装 新 潮 流 在回顾 过去 的 同时，也 不 忘展 望 未 来。许 多年 轻 的 品牌更 新 升 级 这 些 历经 时间考验 的 单 品，其中不少 依然是 英国出品，例 如 Universal Works、Tender、Albam 和 Old Town等 等。来自其他国家的 Engineered Garments、Arpenteur 和 Post Overalls等品牌，也同样 值 得 探 索。

globalblue.com

“工 装已 经 成 为 一 种 微 妙而 低调 的造 型，可以一 路渗 透 到高 街 时尚。”Eddie Prendergast如 此 解 释 道。他一 手成 立了开 创 性 品 牌 Duffer，并且 是 伦敦肖尔迪奇区 （ Shoreditch）Present门店 的主 人， 后 者 专 售 法国原创 工 装 品牌 Vetra。“ 但 复古单 品与现代高品质制 造商却 演绎出不一样 的 效 果（远 超了高街 的 成 品效 果）。一些 精品在 细 节 和面 料 等方面 下足了功夫，非内行人不 可领 会，因而极 具 收 藏价 值。当然，在 某 种 程 度 上，这 种 现 象似乎在证明所有 的男 装归 根 结底 都 源 起于工作 或 军 事，甚 至 连 裁 剪也 是如 此。而且 这 并 不是 一 个 转 瞬即逝 的趋势。”

44: In Focus: Fred Perry 聚焦 Fred Perry 在 全 英国最具 标 志性 的运 动 时尚品 牌背后站 立着 这个国家 最 伟大 的体育 人物 之一。Ruairidh Pritchard为 您讲 述 Fred Perry的品牌 故事 很 少有一 件成 衣 能像 Fred Perry polo衫一样 如 此 精准 地代 表 一 个品 牌，并且 如 此 深 植于品牌所在国的 文化 当中。这件 简单 的服 装 最初 是 一 款革命 性 的运 动 衫，65年来它已 经 演 变为 一 个 无可否 认 的英 伦风 格 之 象征。 Fred Perry是 一 个棉 纺厂工人 的 孩 子，他出生于英 格兰西北部 的 斯托 克 波 特（ Stockport）。1928年，年 仅 19岁的他 获得世界 乒 乓球冠 军。随 后，他 转 战于草 坪，成 为了英国最 成 功 的男子网 球 运 动员，并三次问鼎 温网，成 为了世界上 最 著名的体育红 人 之一。 赢得 全 世界关注 的不 仅是 Perry 的体育成 就，还有他 的个人 风 格。Perry被公 认 为当时最 优 雅男士 之一，他 表 示：“人们 一 般 把我当做

PHOTO: COURTESY OF FRED PERRY

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那 个 时代 衣 品最 好 的运 动员。我 坚 信，人 就 应该 穿 得 像回事。”Perry的 时尚直觉同他 的体育成 就 一样，都是 他 赠 予 世 人 的珍 贵 遗 产；他 的注 册商 标 polo衫 也一直 是 英国人 衣 橱中的主 打 衣 物 之一。 那 款 最 终成 为 Fred Perry品牌 标 志 的 polo衫 诞 生于 1952年。它 在 体育 界乃至其他领 域 一 炮而红，在 随后几 十 年里，也 在 英国最 重要 的亚文化 当中备 受 认可。Fred Perry与英国流 行 音乐有着深 厚 的 渊源，Fred Perry polo衫 受 到明星和 粉 丝 的 热 捧，成 为 了英国音乐界 的宠 儿。60年 代 的摩登 人士 和朋克一族 都穿过 它，在 当年 的 第二波 英国 ska音乐浪潮中也 不乏 拥 趸。Polo衫还 装 扮 过 90年 代 的英国 流行乐 发 烧 友，在 21世 纪 初 的灵魂 乐 （ soul）与节奏 布鲁士（ R & B）交 织 的流行乐 坛亦地位 稳固。该品牌 的 橄 榄 枝 图案成 为了英国时尚界最具 辨 识 度 的商 标 之一。 如 今，这个与 Perry同名的品牌已 是 英国规 模 最大 的品牌 之一，每 一 季 都 生 产 众多系列产品。2017年春夏 季，Authentic系列凸显了该品牌 最 著名的 Fred Perry经 典设 计，对 核心 单 品 作出现代 解读。60、70年 代 斯 卡

（ ska）音乐界 闻名遐 迩 的单色 棋 盘 格 领 Fred Perry polo衫，于本 季 得到 了重 新 演绎，焕 发 出全 新 魅力。 本 季 的 Reissues系列以该品牌产 品档 案为 起 点，令 一些 经 典设 计重 获 新生，其中包 括 M2、M12、M3 Fred Perry衬 衫。M3是史 上 第一 件 单色 Fred Perry衫，几乎 要 数 原版 设 计中最 著名的一 款。它由 Perry先 生 亲自设 计 穿 着，完 美 地 融 合了运 动功 能 性 和 可穿性，凭 借 经 典、简约、流 线 型 的 轮 廓及合 体度，载 入了英国时 尚史 册。如 今，英 格兰 东 米德 兰 地 区 的莱 斯 特市（ Leicester）依然 在 生 产 M3衬 衫。 本 季，还有两位设 计 师为 该品牌 注 入 新 的 活力。第一 位 是 英国针 织 品设 计 师 Bella Freud，在 她设 计 的 一 件 毛 衣 款 上 纹 着以 Freud独 特 的 笔 迹 所写的“ Lovers”（爱侣）一 词。 通 过 采用豹 纹印 花、阔领、金 星 刺 绣 以及与牙买加国旗 同色 的 橄 榄 枝 标 志，她 将自己浓烈 的 审美 带 进了该 品牌 之中。她 解 释 称，牙买加 的雷鬼 （ reggae）音乐 对 她设 计 该系列 带来 了极 大 影 响。 与 Calvin Klein新 任 创 意 总 监、 比 利 时 设 计 师 Raf Simons的合作，使 Fred Perry迎 来了又一 个令人 振 奋 的 季节。Simons的系列 作品将两 种 截 然 不同的灵 感 融 为 一 体：Fred Perry 产品中流淌 的英国传承；设 计 师的一 大标 志 — — 欧 洲 现代 主义。该系列 采 用大 胆而简约 的红、黑、白配色，以 经 典 的 Fred Perry衬 衫为底 本。其中 的 piqué衫 在领 部、袖口、抵 肩处 点 缀 丹宁 布，橄 榄 枝 标 志 上 方更 加入特 殊 的水洗 丹宁和 平 织口袋。这 些元 素 组 合在一 起，为 Fred Perry的 核心设 计 增 添 一 丝崭 新 而 独 特 的韵 味。 在 传承 品牌 丰富遗 产 时，Fred Perry亦 能保 持 现代 感，并 始 终与青 年 文化等 潮 流合拍，无 怪 乎它 能 长 踞 于英国领 先品牌 之列。这位 来自斯托

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克 波 特 的年 轻 网 球冠 军原 本只 想“穿 得 像回事儿”而 已，却 不 想 永 远 改 变 了英国的 时尚风 格与 文化 图景 — — 不由令人惊 叹。

当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购 物区中的 30多 万家 商店消费 时，环 球 蓝 联 购 物 退 税 服务（Global Blue Tax Free Shopping）为 您 节省购 物 开 销。 每 年大 约有两千六百多万名旅客 享 用 环 球 蓝 联（Global Blue）的购 物 退 税 服务，何 不加入他们 的行列？您只 需 在 购 物 时留意 环 球 蓝 联（Global Blue）的蓝 星标 志，或 直 接 问询 商家 是 否 提 供 环 球 蓝 联（Global Blue） 退 税 服务，然后 遵 循以下简单 的退 税 流 程即 可：

1. 购 物 消费 无论 您 在 哪里 购 物，请向商家索要 环 球蓝联 退税表格 （Global Blue Tax Free Form）， 并 保存 票 据。

2. 申领 退 税 在 您 返 程离境前，请 前往 海 关柜台， 出示 退 税 表 格和 相 关 票 据，获 取 海 关 印章，然后再到 环 球 蓝 联 的退 税 点领 取 退 税 款。 联 系方 式： taxfree@ globalblue. com + 421 232 111 111 最 低消费£ 30即 可申请 退 税，能 够 节 省高达购 买 商品 价 14%的税。 请 注 意：您 收 到 的退 税 款 是 增 值 税 减 去环 球 蓝 联 的手 续 费。 如 果您 选 择 现 金 退 税，部 分机 场 还 将以 退 税申请 表为单位收取 现 金 退 税手 续 费。

globalblue.com

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 38: Just The Job

Рабочий вопрос Джош Симс рассказывает, как тренду на рабочую спецодежду удалось стать одним из самых важных и долгоиграющих в мужской моде последних лет «Мне нравится одеваться как квалифицированный рабочий, – делится дизайнер мужской одежды Найджел Кабурн. – Когда шьют такую одежду, всегда имеют в виду определенную цель, а мода, похоже, окончательно упустила это из виду. Кроме того, спецодежда создается на века. Мне кажется это честным. Она дает мне ощущение готовности к чему угодно». Разумеется, Кабурн не одинок в своих пристрастиях. Посетители его магазина готовы платить за лучшие в своем роде рабочие и военные брюки, рубашки из хлопковой ткани шамбре, парки и другие практичные вещи, созданные под влиянием милитариэкипировки. Схожая по облику и духу одежда представлена и в других лондонских независимых магазинах мужской одежды. В западной части города – это Couverture & The Garbstore, в центре – Oi Polloi и American Classics, на востоке – Son Of A Stag – самые модные дизайнеры и бутики рассматривают рабочую одежду

PHOTOS (FROM TOP): © CULTURA CREATIVE 2012/LONDON AND PARTNERS/VISITLONDON.COM; BEN BENOLIEL

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как эстетику, отражающую современную жизнь. Пока подиумная мода двигается в сторону яркого и бросающегося в глаза стиля, то в мужском стиле последних лет наметилось встречное течение. Новая практичная одежда для мужчин создается под влиянием экипировки для профессионалов. Часто это направление задают британские производители с большой историей: достаточно вспомнить Barbour и Berghaus. Заметнее всего этот тренд проявляется в Лондоне, где, предположительно, он и зародился на винтажных рынках и в творческих мастерских. Людей утомляет быстрая мода, и спецодежда в этом случае обладает особыми преимуществами – прочностью, практичностью и внесезонностью.

«Я думаю, главным фактором можно назвать отличное качество этих вещей. Вы покупаете продукт, который будет с вами долго, который вы сможете постоянно носить – и при этом наблюдать, как он становится только лучше со временем. Одноразовая мода – не для всех. Я бы не стал называть трендом такой способ подбора одежды для мужчин. Это давно существующий способ одеваться, который сейчас был заново открыт», – утверждает Джейк Харди, владелец бутика Number Six. В числе его бестселлеров – одежда американского бренда спецодежды Filson. Прочность и практичность этой одежды, разумеется, не исключает возможности насладиться и стилем. Она обращается к глубинному желанию носить вещи с ярко-выраженными маскулинными чертами и очевидными практическими преимуществами (например, комфортная защита от стихии,

множество карманов). Однако такая экипировка обычно связана с занятиями, которые большинство ваших друзей, скорее всего, никогда не пробовали в реальной жизни. «В мужской моде сейчас много женственного, в таком глянцевом смысле. Рабочая и военная одежда открывает альтернативный путь», – утверждает Льюис Халл: его бутик Real McCoy в КовентГарден специализируется на доработанных японских копиях классической рабочей и военной одежды. «Эти вещи достигли статуса культовых. Люди испытывают к ним ностальгические чувства», – комментирует он. История сильно влияет на спецодежду. Отчасти это связано с тем, что многие модели появились между 1930-ми и 1960-ми – в золотую эру рабочей одежды. Кроме того, со стилистической точки зрения, многие вещи связаны с историческими событиями, например, с покорением Эвереста или полярными экспедициями. «Шинель, M-65 [американская военная куртка] или простая пара штанов хаки – вне всякого сомнения, это «чисто мужское» приключение из серии «мальчики и их игрушки», – комментирует Стив Дэвис, креативный директор магазина The Content Store. В ассортименте есть рабочая одежда авторитетных брендов Red Wing и Carhartt WIP, для globalblue.com

которых характерен серьезный подход к качественной мужской одежде. Тренд на спецодежду не только оглядывается в прошлое, но и смотрит в будущее. Все больше молодых брендов осовременивают классические вещи, и снова многие из них – британцы: Universal Works, Tender, Albam и Old Town – в их числе. Чуть дальше базируются Engineered Garments, Arpenteur и Post Overalls, но их разработки также достойны внимания. «Униформа обрела искусный, неброский образ – такой, какого можно ожидать от доступной моды, – размышляет Эдди Прендергаст, основатель бренда Duffer. Он также владеет бутиком Present в Шордиче, где продаются коллекции оригинального французского бренда рабочей формы Vetra.

PHOTO: © JOANNA HENDERSON/LONDON AND PARTNERS/VISITLONDON.COM

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– Но винтажные образцы и современные качественные производители предлагают нечто иное [выходящее за пределы доступного сегмента]. Понимание, какими должны быть элементы отделки и ткани в лучших образцах униформы, превращает их вещи в коллекционные. Разумеется, приходит осознание, что по большому счету вся мужская одежда произошла от рабочей или военной формы, даже деловой костюм. Так что это – не просто мимолетный тренд».

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

44: In Focus: Fred Perry

Руайрид Притчард рассказывает об одном из величайших британских спортсменов, который стоит за созданием легендарного модного бренда

История знает немного примеров, когда отдельно взятый предмет одежды становился олицетворением всего бренда или даже частью культуры целой нации, как это произошло с рубашками поло марки Fred Perry. Все началось с появления простой, но революционной спортивной одежды, которая на протяжении 65 лет трансформировалась, став бесспорным символом британского стиля. Фред Перри родился в Стокпорте, городе на северо-западе Англии, в семье владельца хлопкопрядильной фабрики. В 1928 году в возрасте всего 19 лет ему удается выиграть чемпионат по настольному теннису, после чего он переходит в большой теннис и становится одним из самых успешных игроков в мужском разряде. Фред Перри три раза одерживал победы на чемпионате в Уимблдоне и стал одним из самых знаменитых спортсменов в мире. Однако свою популярность спортсмену удалось завоевать не только благодаря спортивным достижениям, но также и манере одеваться. Фред Перри считался одним из самых элегантных мужчин той эпохи: «Меня считали самым нарядным игроком того времени. А я всегда старался одеваться соответствующе», – комментирует Перри. Его чувство стиля достойно восхищения наряду с

достижениями в области спорта, а фирменные рубашки поло остаются одним из ключевых элементов британского гардероба. Рубашки поло, которым было суждено стать визитной карточкой Fred Perry, впервые появились в 1952 году. Успех последовал незамедлительно, причем миром спорта дело далеко не ограничилось. Спустя десятилетия новый дизайн завоевал популярность среди ведущих субкультур Великобритании. Новые рубашки Fred Perry пришлись по вкусу как музыкантам, так и их поклонникам, и вскоре фасон поло стал частью британской музыкальной культуры. Эти рубашки носила современная молодежь и панки, поклонники второй волны британского движения ска 80-х, фанаты брит-попа 90-х и, наконец, любители соула и R&B первой декады 21 века. Логотип бренда в виде лаврового венка быстро стал одним из самых узнаваемых в британской моде. На сегодняшний день марка, носящая имя спортсмена, является одной из крупнейших в Великобритании и выпускает многочисленные коллекции каждый сезон. В сезоне весналето 2017 бренд презентовал коллекцию Authentic, посвященную современной интерпретации классических творений Fred Perry, которые сделали компанию globalblue.com

знаменитой. Монохромный узор «шахматная доска», ставший популярным в 60-х и 70-х годах среди поклонников музыкального движения ска, был переосмыслен для женской аудитории. В основу коллекции Reissues из этого сезона легли архивы компании. Обновление получили многие ранние работы, включая рубашки Fred Perry M2, M12 и M3. Модель M3 – возможно, одна из самых известных в истории бренда; это частью истории британской моды, спроектировал и носил сам спортсмен. Благодаря классическому, простому, плавному силуэту, в этой рубашке гармонично сочетаются спортивная функциональность и практичность. До сегодняшнего дня рубашка M3 выпускается на фабрике в городе Лестер,

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF FRED PERRY

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расположенном в английском регионе Восточный Мидленд. В этом сезоне Fred Perry участвует сразу в двух коллаборациях. Первая проводится совместно с британским дизайнером трикотажа Беллой Фройд. Особое впечатление производит серия свитеров с надписью «Lovers». Благодаря Фройд коллекция обрела сильную эстетику: леопардовые принты, широкие воротники, вышитые золотистые звезды и фирменный логотип в виде лаврового венка в цветах ямайского флага. Ямайское регги, по словам дизайнера, произвело на нее сильный эффект во время работы над проектом. Коллаборация с бельгийским дизайнером Рафом Симонсом, который недавно получил пост креативного директора

в Calvin Klein, завершает увлекательный сезон для Fred Perry. В созданных Симонсом образах сочетаются два мира: британское наследие бренда и европейский модернизм, ставший одной из визитных карточек дизайнера. Коллекция, характеризующаяся яркой, но минимальной палитрой красного, черного и белого, построена вокруг классической рубашки Fred Perry. Она получила элементы денима на воротнике, манжеты и кокетку из пике, а также карманы из вареного денима и джерси, расположенные прямо над фирменным логотипом. Все эти элементы привносят в стиль Fred Perry особый колорит. Марка Fred Perry всегда проявляла повышенный интерес к молодежной культуре и умела идти в ногу со временем, сохраняя при этом верность своему наследию. Неудивительно, чтоw бренд до сих пор занимает лидирующие позиции в Великобритании. Поразительно, но молодой теннисист из английского городка смог навсегда поменять облик британской моды и культуры, просто потому что хотел «выглядеть соответствующе».

76: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free

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Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира.Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум £30 и сэкономьте до 14% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. globalblue.com

‫ ناهيك عن ارتباطها األزيل بثقافات‬،‫بالحداثة‬

Fred ‫ ال عجب أن تبقى‬،‫شباب ّية وأكث من ذلك‬ ‫ ومن‬.‫ من العالمات الربيطانيّة الرائدة‬Perry

‫تغ“ األسلوب‬ ُّ ‫املث“ لالهتامم أن نؤمن بأّن وراء‬ ‫ يقف العب‬،ً‫تغ“ا ً أبديّا‬ ّ ‫واملشهد الثقايف الربيطاين‬ ‫ أراد بكّل‬Stockport ‫شاب من‬ ّ ‫كرة مرضب‬ ."‫بساطة "أن يظهر بحلّة تليق مبكانته‬ When You Shop The World, :76 Shop Tax Free

‫ تس ّوق من دون دفع‬،‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل‬ ‫الرضيبة‬

‫ خدمة‬Global Blue ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو‬ Tax Free ‫التس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة‬ 300,000 ‫لتدّخر املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكث من‬ .‫متجر يف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العامل‬ ‫ مليون مسافر الذين‬26 ‫فل َم ال تنض ّم إىل الـ‬ ‫يتس ّوقون من دون دفع الرضيبة من خالل غلوبل‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك إال أن‬ ّ Global Blue ‫بلو‬ ‫تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ .‫ وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‬Global Blue ‫ تس ّوق‬.1 ‫ أطلب الحصول عىل طلب اسرتداد‬،‫أينام تس ّوقت‬ Global Blue ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو‬ ّ ‫الرضيبة‬ .‫وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصاالت‬ ‫ أطلب‬.2 ‫ أقصد مكتب‬،‫يف طريق العودة إىل وطنك‬ ‫الجامرك عند نقطة املغادرة لتتم املصادقة عىل‬ ‫إيصاالتك قبل قبض االسرتداد من أحد مكاتب‬ .‫الخاصة بنا‬ ّ ‫االسرتداد‬ :‫لالت ّصال‬

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 14% ‫ وادّخر حتّى‬£30 ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدىن قدره‬

‫داد النهايئ‬£‫ يشمل مبلغ االس‬.‫ياتك‬£‫من مثن مش‬ ‫الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الرضيبة عىل القيمة‬ ،‫ يف بعض املطارات‬.‫املضافة ناقص رسم إداري‬ ‫داد‬£‫يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عىل كل طلب اس‬ ‫داد‬£‫رضيبة يف حال رغبت بالحصول عىل اس‬ .‫فوري نقدي‬

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‫‪PHOTO: COURTESY OF FRED PERRY/GETTY IMAGES‬‬

‫ذات م ّرة‪ُ " :‬وصفت عا ّم ًة بأكث العب أنيق املظهر‬ ‫يل السعي لكسب‬ ‫يف عرصي‪ .‬وأؤمن متاماً أنّه ع ّ‬ ‫هذا اللّقب عن جدارة"‪ .‬خلّف ذوق ‪Perry‬‬ ‫باملالبس إرثاً كبريا ً عىل غرار إنجازاته الرياضيّة‬ ‫وما زالت قمصان البولو التي اشتهر بها أحد أبرز‬ ‫عنارص األزياء الربيطان ّية‪.‬‬ ‫أُطلق قميص البولو الذي أصبح يف ما بعد‬ ‫الداللة عىل عالمة ‪ Fred Perry‬سنة ‪.1952‬‬ ‫حقّق نجاحاً فوريّاً يف عامل الرياضة وخارجه‪،‬‬ ‫وجذب يف العقود الالحقة أفراد أه ّم املجتمعات‬ ‫الفرع ّية الربيطان ّية‪ .‬ارتبطت هذه املجموعات‬ ‫ارتباطاً وثيقاً باملوسيقى وارتدت قمصان بولو‬ ‫‪ Fred Perry‬بحامسة بحيث أضحت من‬ ‫الدعائم األساس ّية لعامل املوسيقى الربيطاين‪ .‬لبِس‬ ‫القميص أتباع حركة املود (‪ )mods‬والبانك‬ ‫(‪ )punk‬يف الستّينات ور ّواد املوجة الثانية من‬ ‫موسيقى ‪ ska‬الربيطان ّية ومح ّبو موسيقى البوب‬ ‫الربيطانيّة يف الثامنينات وما زال يحافظ عىل‬ ‫مكانته يف أوساط موسيقى السول وموسيقى‬ ‫البوب املط ّعمة بالـ ‪ R&B‬يف العقد األ ّول من‬ ‫القرن الواحد والعرشين‪ .‬بالتايل‪ ،‬بات شعار‬ ‫العالمة املتمثّل بإكليلٍ من الغار من األشهر عىل‬ ‫اإلطالق يف األزياء الربيطانيّة‪.‬‬ ‫واليوم‪ ،‬أضحت العالمة التي تحمل إسم‬ ‫البطل الريايض من األكرب يف اململكة املتّحدة‬ ‫كل موسم‪ .‬لربيع‪/‬‬ ‫وتقدّم مجموعات متعدّدة ّ‬ ‫صيف ‪ ،2017‬ت ُحيي مجموعة ‪Authentic‬‬ ‫تصاميم ‪ Fred Perry‬الكالسيكيّة التي قادت‬ ‫العالمة إىل الشهرة‪ُ ،‬مضيف ًة بعد العنارص العرصيّة‬

‫إىل القطع األساسيّة‪ .‬كام تت ّم إعادة إحياء نقش‬ ‫لوح الشطرنج الذي راج بفعل شهرة العالمة يف‬ ‫الستينات والسبعينات من خالل موسيقى سكا‪،‬‬ ‫وذلك يف املالبس النسائيّة الفاخرة التي تص ّممها‬ ‫العالمة‪.‬‬ ‫يف حني تلجأ مجموعة ‪ Reissues‬هذا‬ ‫املوسم إىل أرشيف العالمة كنقطة بداية وت ُعيد‬ ‫ابتكار بعض أوىل التصاميم‪ ،‬مبا فيها قمصان‬ ‫‪ Fred Perry M2‬و‪ M12‬و‪ .M3‬قد يكون‬ ‫تصميم ‪ M3‬أشهر التصاميم األصل ّية إذ إنّه أ ّول‬ ‫قميص أُحادي اللّون من ‪ .Fred Perry‬ص ّممه‬ ‫‪ Perry‬بنفسه ولَبسه فاستحال قطعة من تاريخ‬ ‫األزياء الربيطان ّية‪ ،‬تجمع بامتياز بني العمل ّية‬ ‫الرياضيّة وقابليّة االرتداء بفضل شكلها وتصميمها‬ ‫الكالسييك البسيط املصقول‪ .‬و ّحتى يومنا هذا‪،‬‬ ‫يُصنع قميص ‪ M3‬يف ‪ Leicester‬يف منطقة‬ ‫‪ East Midlands‬يف إنكل‪£‬ا‪.‬‬ ‫تشهد العالمة هذا املوسم أيضاً مبادريت‬ ‫تعاون مع مص ّممني مثريين لالهتامم‪ .‬األوىل مع‬ ‫مص ّممة املالبس املحبوكة الربيطانيّة ‪Bella‬‬ ‫‪ Freud‬وتشمل التشكيلة كنزات مزخرفة بكلمة‬ ‫“‪ ”Lovers‬مكتوبة بخ ّط الي ّد الشهري لدى عالمة‬ ‫‪ .Freud‬أ”فت ‪ Freud‬أسلوبها الجاميل الفريد‬ ‫من خالل استخدام نقش الفهد والياقات الواسعة‬ ‫والنجوم الذهبيّة امل ُط ّرزة وشعار إكليل الغار‬ ‫بألوان علم جامايكا‪ .‬تضيف املص ّممة أنّها تأث ّرت‬ ‫كث“ا ً مبوسيقى الريغي الجامايكيّة يف خالل عملها‬ ‫عىل املجموعة‪.‬‬ ‫ويزداد املوسم إثار ًة لدى ‪ Fred Perry‬إثر‬ ‫تعاونها مع املص ّمم البلجييك ‪Raf Simons‬‬ ‫خرا ً املدير االبتكاري لـ ‪Calvin‬‬ ‫الذي ُع ّني مؤ ّ‬ ‫‪ .Klein‬تجمع مجموعة ‪ Simons‬بني عاملني‬ ‫كل‬ ‫من اإللهام؛ ال‪£‬اث الربيطاين الذي ينخرط يف ّ‬ ‫تصاميم ‪ Fred Perry‬والحداثة األوروب ّية التي‬ ‫باتت من خصائص املص ّمم‪ .‬تتّسم املجموعة‬ ‫بألون األحمر واألسود واألبيض الجريئة لكن‬ ‫الخفيفة وتتمحور حول قميص ‪Fred Perry‬‬ ‫الكالسييك‪ .‬تتمتّع بن‪£‬ات من الدّنيم عىل الياقة‬ ‫وأطراف األكامم والجزء العلوي الخلفي لقميص‬ ‫جيب من الج“سيه والدّنيم‬ ‫البيكيه باإل”افة إىل ٍ‬ ‫الباهت فوق شعار إكليل الغار الشه“‪ .‬بالتايل‪،‬‬ ‫تضفي هذه العنارص مجتمعة نفح ًة جديدة‬ ‫ومميّزة إىل تصميم ‪ Fred Perry‬األسايس‪.‬‬ ‫نظرا ً لقدرتها عىل صون إرثها العريق والتمتّع‬

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‫معني ومث ّة حنني إليها‪".‬‬ ‫تعب عن أسلوب ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كان للتاريخ تأثري كبري عىل مالبس العمل‪.‬‬ ‫يعود ذلك إىل تصميم الكثري من املالبس يف العرص‬ ‫الذهبي ملالبس الرجال بني الثالثينات والستينات‪.‬‬ ‫ويُعزى ذلك أيضاً إىل ارتباط الكثري منها بأحداث‬ ‫تاريخيّة عىل سبيل اكتشاف إفرست والرحالت‬ ‫االستكشافيّة إىل املناطق القطبيّة‪ .‬يقول ‪Steve‬‬ ‫‪ ،Davies‬املدير االبتكاري لـ ‪The Content‬‬ ‫"بغض النظر إن كانت قطعة املالبس‬ ‫‪ّ :Store‬‬ ‫معطفاً عسكريّاً طويالً أو ستة عسكريّة أو‬ ‫عسكري‪ ،‬مث ّة طابع "صبيا ّين" واضح‬ ‫مج ّرد رسوال‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وجودة "رجاليّة" لهذا النوع من املالبس‪ ".‬هنا‬ ‫يجد الزبائن مالبس عمل من عالمات عىل سبيل‬ ‫‪ Red Wing‬و‪ Carhartt WIP‬املعروفتني‬ ‫مبقاربتهام املدروسة إىل املالبس الرجاليّة املميّزة‪.‬‬ ‫لكن إىل جانب ارتباطها باملايض‪ ،‬تتطلّع‬ ‫مالبس العمل الجديدة هذه إىل املستقبل‪ .‬مث ّة‬ ‫موجة من العالمات الصاعدة التي تقوم بتحديث‬ ‫هذه القطع املج ّربة وامل ُختبة‪ .‬الكثري منها‬ ‫بريطانيّة مثل ‪Universal Works‬‬ ‫و‪ Tender‬و‪ Albam‬و‪ ،Old Town‬يف حني‬ ‫تأيت عالمات أخرى عىل سبيل ‪Engineered‬‬ ‫‪ Garments‬و‪ Arpenteur‬و‪Post‬‬ ‫تقل أهم ّيةً‪.‬‬ ‫‪ Overalls‬من بلدان أخرى لك ّنها ال ّ‬ ‫عىل ح ّد تعبري ‪،Eddie Prendergast‬‬ ‫مؤسس عالمة ‪ Duffer‬الشهرية وصاحب متجر‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Present in Shoreditch‬الذي يبيع مالبس‬ ‫عمل من العالمة الفرنسيّة األصليّة ‪:Vetra‬‬ ‫تعب عن أسلوب عفوي‬ ‫"باتت مالبس العمل ّ‬ ‫يشق طريقه إىل الشوارع‬ ‫متواضع‪ ،‬من املتوقّع أن ّ‬ ‫الرئيسيّة الكبى‪ .‬لكن لدى املحالت العريقة‬ ‫والصانعني العرصيّني ما يفوق ذلك‪ .‬مث ّة اهتامم‬ ‫دقيق بالتفاصيل واألقمشة املستخدمة بأفضل‬ ‫الطرق‪ ،‬لدرجة أنّها باتت مرغوبة‪ .‬وبالطبع‪ ،‬يشري‬ ‫كل ذلك إىل أ ّن كافّة املالبس الرجاليّة مستوحاة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫من مالبس العمل أو املالبس العسكريّة‪ ،‬حتّى‬ ‫البدالت‪ .‬فهي ليست مبوضة عابرة‪".‬‬ ‫‪In Focus: Fred Perry :44‬‬ ‫تحت املجهر‪Fred Perry :‬‬

‫بفضل أحد أعظم رياض ّيي بريطانيا‪ ،‬أبرصت‬ ‫إحدى أبرز عالمات األزياء شهر ًة يف البالد النور‪،‬‬ ‫تقرير ‪Ruairidh Pritchard‬‬

‫نادرا ً ما تُ ثّل قطعة مالبس معيّنة العالمة‬ ‫التي ابتكرتها إىل هذا الح ّد أو تنطبع يف ثقافة‬ ‫بلد املنشأ عىل غرار قميص البولو من ‪Fred‬‬ ‫‪ .Perry‬انطلق هذا التصميم البسيط كقطعة‬ ‫مالبس رياض ّية خارجة عن املألوف وتط ّور‬ ‫ررعىل م ّر ‪ 65‬سنة ليصبح رمزا ً محتّامً لألسلوب‬ ‫البيطاين‪.‬‬ ‫‪ Fred Perry‬هو إبن غازل قطنٍ يف‬ ‫‪ Stockport‬شاميل غرب إنكلتا‪ ،‬أصبح بطالً‬ ‫عامل ّياً يف كرة الطاولة سنة ‪ 1928‬وكان ال يزال‬ ‫يف الـ ‪ 19‬من العمر‪ .‬ث ّم انتقل إىل كرة املرضب‬ ‫فأضحى أمهر العب ذكر يف بريطانيا‪ ،‬فاز ببطولة‬ ‫‪ Wimbeldon‬ثالث م ّرات وبات يف ما بعد‬ ‫أحد أشهر الالعبني العامليّني‪.‬‬ ‫مل يلفت ‪ Fred Perry‬االنتباه ببطوالته‬ ‫الرياضيّة فحسب‪ ،‬بل بأسلوب لبسه الشخيص‪.‬‬ ‫باعتباره أحد أكرث الرجال أناق ًة يف تلك الفتة‪ ،‬قال‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪Just The Job :38‬‬

‫ع ّز الطلب‬

‫مالبس العمل هي من أه ّم أساليب مالبس‬ ‫الرجال وأكرثها دواماً يف السنوات األخرية‪.‬‬ ‫يستكشف ‪ Josh Sims‬تألّقها الفريد‬

‫‪PHOTO: JIMA/JIMAGRAPHY.COM‬‬

‫يقول مص ّمم املالبس الرجاليّة الشهري ‪Nigel‬‬ ‫"أحب ارتداء مالبس عمل‪ ،‬فهي‬ ‫‪ّ :Cabourn‬‬ ‫مص ّممة لغاي ٍة محدّدة‪ ،‬وهذا ما فقدته املوضة‪.‬‬ ‫كام أنّها ُصنعت لتدوم‪ .‬تتمتّع بالصدق وتنحني‬ ‫ألي يشء‪".‬‬ ‫شعورا ً بأنّني مستع ّد ّ‬ ‫بالطبع‪ ،‬ليس ‪ Cabourn‬وحيدا ً يف هذا‬ ‫املجال‪ .‬يف حني يدفع ز ّوار متجره يف لندن مبالغ‬

‫سخيّة للحصول عىل أفضل الرساويل العسكريّة‬ ‫وقمصان الشامباي واملعاطف املز ّودة بق ّبعات‬ ‫من الفرو وغريها من املالبس العمليّة واملستوحاة‬ ‫من العسكر‪ ،‬يختار رجال آخرون مالبس مشابهة‬ ‫من حيث الشكل واملضمون من متاجر رجال ّية‬ ‫مستقلّة كبى يف املدينة‪ .‬فمن ‪Couverture‬‬ ‫‪ & The Garbstore‬غرب لندن إىل ‪Oi‬‬ ‫‪ Polloi‬و‪ American Classics‬يف وسطها‬ ‫و‪ Son Of A Stag‬يف رشقها‪ ،‬يعتمد مص ّممو‬ ‫املدينة ومحالتها األكرث عرصيّة أسلوب مالبس‬ ‫العمل كعنرص جاميل للحياة العرصيّة‪.‬‬ ‫املنصات طريق الفخامة‪،‬‬ ‫يف حني شقّت أزياء ّ‬ ‫شهدت السنوات األخرية َميل املالبس الرجال ّية‬ ‫وبخاصة املستوحاة‬ ‫إىل التصاميم األكرث عمليّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫خاص‪ ،‬وغالباً ما‬ ‫من تلك املص ّممة الستخدامٍ ّ‬ ‫تكون من عالمات بريطان ّية عريقة عىل سبيل‬ ‫ويتجىل ذلك يف‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Barbour‬و‪.Berghaus‬‬ ‫لندن أكرث منه يف مدن أخرى‪ ،‬حيث بدأت هذه‬ ‫املوضة يف أسواق املدينة القدمية واملجتمعات‬ ‫املتغرية‬ ‫الفنيّة‪ .‬ونتيجة ملل الزبائن من املوضة ّ‬ ‫برسعة‪ ،‬تراهم ينجذبون إىل مالبس العمل املتينة‬ ‫معني‪.‬‬ ‫والعمليّة وغري املرتبطة بأسلوب موسم ّ‬ ‫محل‬ ‫يقول ‪ ،Jake Hardy‬صاحب ّ‬ ‫‪ Number Six‬الذي تحقّق فيه عالمة مالبس‬ ‫العمل األمريكيّة ‪ Filson‬أفضل املبيعات‪" :‬أعتقد‬ ‫أ ّن أحد العنارص املؤث ّرة هو جودة املالبس‪ .‬الواقع‬ ‫أنّك تشتي منتجاً يدوم وميكنك لبسه عدّة م ّرات‬ ‫ومالحظة تألّقه مع الوقت‪ .‬ليست املوضة العابرة‬ ‫باملناسبة للجميع‪ .‬لك ّنني ال أعتقد أ ّن مالبس‬ ‫العمل موضة بح ّد ذاتها للرجال؛ بل إنّها طريقة‬ ‫لبس قدمية أُعيد اكتشافها‪".‬‬ ‫ال ّ‬ ‫شك أ ّن متانة املالبس وعمل ّيتها تنح‬ ‫الرجال أيضاً فرص ًة لالستمتاع بأحد أساليب التأنّق‪.‬‬ ‫ماسة الرتداء مالبس ذكوريّة‬ ‫فهي تل ّبي حاجة ّ‬ ‫بوضوح‪ ،‬تتمتّع بفوائد وظيفيّة عىل سبيل توفري‬ ‫الحامية املريحة والجيوب املتعدّدة‪ ،‬وتذكّر مبهنٍ‬ ‫ونشاطات لن يختبها قط الرجل القائم بأعامل‬ ‫مكتبيّة‪ .‬يقول ‪ Lewis Hull‬الذي ميتلك محل‬ ‫‪ Real McCoy‬يف ‪،Covent Garden‬‬ ‫املختص باملالبس العسكريّة وبإعادة إنتاج‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التصاميم الكالسيكيّة امل ُع ّززة اليابانيّة الصنع‪:‬‬ ‫"باتت الكثري من املالبس الرجال ّية أنثويّة اليوم‪،‬‬ ‫اللامع‪ .‬لذا تشكّل مالبس العمل‬ ‫بشكلها األملس ّ‬ ‫واملالبس العسكريّة طريق ًة لتفاديها‪ .‬فقد باتت‬

SO UVEN I R

LOVING AND GIVING Handmade one-of-a-kind prints, quirky designs and high-quality materials characterise Londonbased homeware and ready-towear brand Silken Favours. This baby-pink silk cushion has a modern bunny print and is part of the Hypnotic Heaven collection, which features kitschy designs such as bold stripes, leopards, snakes and flowers. Founder and creative director Vicki Murdoch focuses on the details found in nature and reinvents them in a playful way – think kittens riding unicorns and flying pigs Save up to 14% by shopping tax free, see page 76

hand-drawn on silk. The prints are made into shirts, pillows, scarves, notebooks, fringed ponchos and even wallpapers, creating a youthful collection that proves that fashion can still be fun while being artisanal and creative. Silken Favours is now stocked in over 20 stores worldwide, and recently collaborated with British heritage fragrance brand Atkinsons. fm Silken Favours cushion, £95, Liberty, Regent Street, London W1B 5AH, +44 (0)20 7734 1234, silkenfavours.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 63

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