SHOP Milan AW15

MILAN | МИЛАН | 米兰 | ミラノ

MILAN Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2015/16

Page 66 BOARD GAMES: fashion reveals its fun side

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Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this world-renowned style centre. Milan has much to ofer, as our guide on page 106 reveals. Readers who appreciate the latest ideas from Italian designers will enjoy our feature about fun fashion (page 66), and in this issue we also explore the philanthropy at the heart of the Ermenegildo Zegna brand (page 74).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Milan. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

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Alec Doherty Illustrator Alec Doherty created this season’s cover for SHOP Milan. His artwork was inspired by our feature about the designers injecting fun and brightness into fashion collections this autumn and winter (see page 66). Alec’s bold, colourful and graphic style made him the perfect choice for this subject. His playful, witty illustration shows models as game pieces on a chess board, combined with other board game motifs and references to the city of Milan.

Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

PHOTO: BRAD CLARKE PHOTOGRAPHY

ILLUSTRATION: ALEC DOHERTY

CONTRIBUTORS

Harriet Quick Journalist Harriet Quick explores the changing face of women’s fashion for this season’s edition of SHOP Milan. Harriet has held senior roles at the Guardian and at British Vogue, where she was the fashion features director. globalblue.com

Sally McIlhone As SHOP’s managing editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world.

For this edition, she wrote our cover story about the new, fun direction that Italian fashion labels are taking this season.

Verity Hogan Verity Hogan, SHOP’s features editor, profles historic Italian brand Ermenegildo Zegna this season. A history graduate, Verity swapped writing about crinolines for contemporary clothes when she moved to London to pursue journalism.

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Rendez-Vous Moon watch Carmen Chaplin, Actor and Director

Open a whole new world

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Alec Doherty Contributors Maria Kirchen-Hill, Harriet Quick Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Production assistant Katie Muxworthy Features editor Verity Hogan City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/ deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Charlotte Rogers Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Tom Knight

Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Online production assistant Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Aiyang Zou Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak Commercial artworking intern Kiranjeet Kaur

G L O B A L B L U E I TA LY Country manager Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales managers Antonella Bertossi, Flavio Gatti Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Sales key account manager Stefano Cardinale Sales account manager Marco Cavalli Global account managers Simone Borgheresi, Sabrina Schiavone, Salvatore Smith Key account managers Monica Affaticati, Benedetta Andreini, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Manuela Intili, Consuelo Murari, Alberta Reinach Marco Savino, Account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Nadia Busletta, Gloria Di Domenico, Laura Durante, Gabriele Giuntini, Diana Martin, Sonia Mura, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Giordano Senzacqua Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Production assistant Sammy Ha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution and partnerships manager Lara Osuna

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

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CONTENTS

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

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P ROD U C T S 30 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Milan this season 32 Our Favourites The founders of Moleskine and Aquilano Rimondi talk about their favourite products and give their top tips for the season 36 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 44 Street Style Our pick of the best dressed during Milan Fashion Week N EWS 48 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Milan 50 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products Above: Moschino’s playful autumn/winter 2015/16 collection

F E AT U R E S 66 Cover Story: Houses Of Fun From vibrant faux-fur coats to cartoonprinted caps, Italy’s leading fashion labels are adding a dose of humour to their collections this season, says Sally McIlhone 74 Family Values Commitment to both fashion and philanthropy lies at the heart of the Ermenegildo Zegna brand, as Anna Zegna tells Verity Hogan 84 Changing Direction Milan’s major fashion houses are putting forward a diferent vision of women this season, where individual style can shine.

Harriet Quick unpacks the new approach

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CONTENTS E X PE R I E NCE 92 Table Talk Recent restaurant openings show that Milan’s culinary scene is on top form, as Isabella Redmond Styles fnds out 100 Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels GU I DE 106 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Milan, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights

ESSENTI A LS 140 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S 142 Русский Перевод 158 美文翻译 163 日本語翻訳 SOU V E N I R 170 The essential item to bring home

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ONLINE

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

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shop at santonishoes.com MILANO Via Montenapoleone, 6 - Ph. +39 02 76280508

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BOLD DETAIL Expertly contrasting the daintiness of a classic stiletto heel with the unexpected volume of oversized braided velvet, these shoes by Marco de Vincenzo are trophy pieces. De Vincenzo focuses on the architectural lines of objects to create his unique apparel and accessories, and by deconstructing a product during the design process he aims to create a postmodern, psychedelic feeling. His intriguing approach has caught the attention of LVMH, a worldSave up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

leading fashion company, which bought an interest in this up-and-coming brand earlier this year. In a shade that blurs the line between deep blue and purple – a key colour for autumn/winter – these heels are a timely wardrobe update and will bring a fashion edge to elegant evening events. fm Marco de Vincenzo shoes, €945, Giò Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3186, marcodevincenzo.com * for map go to page 122

PHOTO: DANIELE LA MALFA

CHECK OUT

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MY FAVOURITES: MARIA SEBREGONDI Maria Sebregondi, the founder of Moleskine, was born and raised in Italy. During the 1990s, she approached Modo & Modo, a small Milanese design and publishing frm, with the idea of resurrecting a traditional style of notebook. In 1997, the company began producing the now iconic Moleskine journals.

Since then, the brand has expanded into diaries, bags, cases and digital products. Maria Sebregondi tells Ximena Daneri about her favourite items moleskine.com

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1. ‘The Moleskine Smart Notebook and companion app instantly turn your hand-drawn sketches into fully workable vector fles.

Accessible within Adobe Creative Cloud, it gets the best out of the analogue and digital worlds’

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Moleskine Smart Notebook, €32.95, Moleskine, Via Dante 15, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7202 2711, moleskine.com

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2. ‘Driade is an amazing ‘aesthetic lab’ founded in Milan in 1968 and is now under the creative direction of David Chipperfeld. It creates furniture for the home, garden and public spaces as well as pieces of art.

The atelier is a must-see!’

PHOTO: ENZA TAMBORRA

Driade, Via Borgogna 8, 20122 Milan, +39 02 799957, driade.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

3. ‘The new Moleskine Classic Backpack in leather, by designer Giulio Iacchetti, has been inspired by the Moleskine notebook, with rounded corners, black on the outside and ivory inside. It’s one of my favourite items’ Moleskine Classic Backpack, €160, Moleskine, Via Dante 15, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7202 2711, moleskine.com

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4. ‘We’ve partnered the British Library to create a collection of notebooks that celebrate the literary masterpiece Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland.

Each cover features reproductions of John Tenniel’s original illustrations’ Moleskine Alice in Wonderland notebook, €14.90, Moleskine, Via Dante 15, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7202 2711, moleskine.com

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5. ‘The Artemide Eclisse lamp was the frst designer piece I owned. I had just turned 18 and received it as a gift for my home. An Artemide lamp was also one of the frst objects I bought to fll and light my ofce at Moleskine’ Artemide Eclisse lamp, €50, Design Supermarket, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, artemide.com

6. ‘Design brand Nendo combines the essence of simplicity with functionality.

Its Mirror-Chair for Glas Italia was exhibited during Milan Design Week 2015’ Nendo for Glas Italia MirrorChair, price on request, Glas Italia, Via Santa Sofa 27, 20122 Milan, +39 02 5832 8523, glasitalia.com

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OUR FAVOURITES: TOMMASO AQUILANO AND ROBERTO RIMONDI Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi are the founders of Aquilano Rimondi, an Italian fashion company focused on contemporary craftsmanship. Since its debut at Milan Fashion Week in September 2008, the label has gained international recognition for its unique style, and its pieces are stocked in exclusive stores around the world.

Using a mix of high-tech and high-end fabrics, the brand’s collections are inspired by art and, naturally, by its home country. Tommaso and Roberto share their tips for the season with SHOP aquilanorimondi.it

1. ‘Our pinstriped coat in navy is a keeper and is perfect for many occasions’

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Aquilano Rimondi navy coat, €1,240, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20122 Milan, +39 02 88521, aquilanorimondi.com

2. ‘For luggage, we like Tod’s, Fred Perry and Louis Vuitton’ Louis Vuitton suitcase, €20,000, Louis Vuitton, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 1711, louisvuitton.com

3. ‘The Fay bags with fringes that we designed for the runway collection are a must-have for anyone who’d like to make a statement’

4. ‘We have many favourite stores in Milan, including Antonioli and Excelsior for clothes and Pennisi for antique jewellery’ Antonioli, Via Pasquale Paoli 1, 20143 Milan, +39 02 3656 1860, antonioli.eu Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

PHOTO: GIANNI PUCCI/INDIGITALIMAGES.COM

Fay bag, from €1,100, Fay, Via della Spiga 15, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 7597, fay.com

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5. ‘We love made-tomeasure shoes and classic Adidas sneakers, such as the Stan Smith’ Adidas Stan Smith sneakers, €93, Adidas Originals, Via Alessi di Tocqueville 11, 20154 Milan, +39 02 634 70620, adidas.com

6. ‘This season, we like the labels that follow the masculine trend.

Alessandro Michele’s debut for Gucci has made a particularly good impression’ Gucci, Via Montenapoleone 5-7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 771271, gucci.com

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EARTH TONES Stick to autumnal shades for a classic look this season

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1. Acqua di Parma Colonia Ambra eau de cologne, 100ml, €167, Acqua di Parma, Via Gesù 1/Via Montenapoleone, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 3307, acquadiparma.com

3. Salvatore Ferragamo sunglasses, price on request, Salvatore Ferragamo, Via Montenapoleone 20-24, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6660, ferragamo.com

2. Hublot Big Bang Ferrari King Gold Carbon watch, €36,300, Pisa Orologeria, Via Petro Verri/Via Montenapoleone 9, 20121 Milan, +39 02 762081, hublot.com Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

4. Federica Moretti felt hat, €275, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, federicamorettihandmade.com 5. Gucci shoes, price on request, Gucci, Via Montenapoleone 5-7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 771271, gucci.com

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LADYLIKE LUXURY Keep things classic with a little black dress and standout accessories 1

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1. Escada leather dress, €2,199, Escada, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 4269, escada.com

3. Dolce & Gabbana handbag, €945, Dolce & Gabbana, Via della Spiga 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 8485, dolcegabbana.com

2. Chanel watch, €18,000, Chanel, Via Sant’Andrea 10A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 782514, chanel.com

4. DSquared2 earrings with Swarovski crystals, €400, DSquared2, Via Pietro Verri 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8969 1699, dsquared2.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

5. Prada shoes, price on request, Prada, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 1771, prada.com

CORSO VERCELLI 27

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BIKER CHIC Mix and match these standout accessories for a look that’s efortlessly cool 1

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1. Mondelliani sunglasses, €245, Mari Di Maria Angela Magni, Via Manzoni Alessandro 27, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8050 0468, mondelliani.it

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2. Guess jacket, €119.90, Guess, Via Torino 34, 20100 Milan, +39 02 7202 1764, guess.eu 3. Furla bucket bag, €480, Furla, Piazza del Duomo 31, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8909 6794, furla.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

4. Ermanno Scervino shoes, €720, Giò Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3186, ermannoscervino.com

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TO THE MAX Accessories can take your outft to the next level – keep the rest of the look simple

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1. Pierre Hardy shoes, €740, Antonia, Via Cusani 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8699 8340, pierrehardy.com

3. Bulgari bracelet, €30,000, Bulgari, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777001, bulgari.com

5. Lanvin hat, €990, Lanvin, Via della Spiga 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 9768 7091, lanvin.com

2. Cartier watch, €36,800, Cartier, Via Montenapoleone 16, 20121 Milan, +39 02 303 0421, cartier.com

4. Damiani earrings, €4,190, Damiani, Via Montenapoleone 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 8088, damiani.com

6. Native Union Clic marble iPhone case, €79.99, Excelsior, Galleria del Corso 4, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7601 5176, nativeunion.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

PHOTOS: (2) © CARTIER/VINCENT WULVERYCK; (3) ANTONIO BARRELLA/STUDIO

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Shades of tofee and golden caramel turned heads at Milan Fashion Week, whether used boldly in Prada’s classic car motifs and Louis Vuitton’s stripes or delicately with foral lace-up sandals

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

STREET STYLE

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Milan has embraced red, white and blue this season, with bold stripes and arty prints seen on everything from knitted sweaters to clutch bags. The style set has made a strong case for primary colours by grounding the look with classic black

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

STREET STYLE

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SHOP WINDOW

To coincide with its 40th anniversary, Giorgio Armani has unveiled its newly reopened fagship store on Via Montenapoleone.

Spanning three foors with a sales area of 1,082 square metres, the boutique stocks womenswear, menswear, accessories and fragrances. For elegant and personal Giorgio Armani pieces, clients can take advantage of the made-to-measure service. The interior design showcases a new retail concept for the brand, with each room decorated in a diferent colour and featuring its own style of fooring.

Marble, onyx, silk wall panels and custommade chairs create a relaxing and luxurious atmosphere for visitors. th Giorgio Armani, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3234, armani.com * for map go to page 120 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

ARMANI ANNIVERSARY

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CREATIVE HAVEN Former fashion editor Carla Sozzani set up 10 Corso Como as a one-stop destination for art, fashion, design and lifestyle items from around the world. Highly fashionable garments sit alongside fragrances and cosmetics, homewares and more. km 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, 10corsocomo.com * for map go to page 130

TAKE CENTRE STAGE Menswear specialist Caruso has opened a truly original flagship store, inspired by an opera house. Caruso wants the men it dresses to come across as confident, like a performer on a stage. Everything you need to complete your wardrobe is available here, from suits and jackets to ties and knitwear, ranging from the traditional to the more unusual. This is a mustvisit boutique for stylish men. hl Caruso, Via GesĂš 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7634 0496, carusomenswear.com * for map go to page 118

TESTAMENT TO TESTONI Italian heritage brand A Testoni has reopened its Via Montenapoleone store. Constructed from steel, wood and crystal, this two-storey boutique is a contemporary expression of luxury. To mark the occasion, the brand has relaunched the Turtle bag, which first appeared in its women’s accessories collection in 2004. Made entirely by hand from woven crocodile skin, the item became an instant classic. The company began in 1929, when Amedeo Testoni opened his first workshop, and today A Testoni is a global lifestyle label with a wide range of products. th A Testoni, Via Montenapoleone 19, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3697, testoni.com * for map go to page 120 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

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BRIGHT SPARKS Emilio Pucci has opened a new two-storey flagship boutique. The brand is well known for its vibrant prints and the boutique has bright colours throughout. Wooden double-height walls, high ceilings and marble floors are in harmony with the glass displays and colourful collections. The store follows Pucci’s palazzo concept, which merges the innovative and grandiose with traditional Italian stonework.

The new store offers accessories, eveningwear and eyewear and features a private lounge. fm Emilio Pucci, Via Montenapoleone 27, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 8356, emiliopucci.com * for map go to page 120

IN THE ZONE With its fashion-forward selection, Antonia is a multibrand boutique that should be on every shopper’s checklist. Designed by renowned Italian architect Vincenzo de Cotiis, the 600-square-metre store comprises three distinct departments. In the womenswear zone, established brands and avant-garde labels await the discerning client.

The same can also be said of the menswear section, where ready-to-wear clothing and accessories vie for attention.

The store’s eponymous owner travels the world to source the shoes, bags and small leather goods that form the accessories section. Located in the hip Brera area, Antonia is a favourite with fashion editors and celebrities. th Antonia, Via Cusani 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8699 8340, antonia.it * for map go to page 132 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

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MILAN WELCOMES LOEWE Spanish leather specialist Loewe has opened its first store in the city. The shop is housed in an historic building that boasts original features, such as frescoed ceilings and a grand 17th-century staircase. In a concept designed by the brand’s creative director Jonathan Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

Anderson, these features have been juxtaposed with highly modern elements to reflect the brand’s focus on bringing decades of tradition into the modern day. Look out for the wellloved Puzzle bag, the first Loewe bag designed

by Anderson, as well as his personal take on the company’s Flamenco and Amazona bags. hl Loewe, Via Montenapoleone 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7634 0533, loewe.com * for map go to page 120

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IN GOOD HANDS Raimondo Gobbi started his business in Modena in 1842 and it went on to became clockmaker to the Italian royal court. Today, Gobbi is just as well respected and now the company offers jewellery as well as watches in its grand wood-panelled store. World-class timepieces are available in the store and this autumn look out for the annual Gobbi Timeless Collection, which will particularly appeal to fans of golf. Two technicians are on hand in the boutique to carry out maintenance work. sm Gobbi 1842, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 15, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7602 0536, gobbi1842.it * for map go to page 113

MAKE YOUR MARK In the heart of Milan’s high-fashion district, Maison Margiela has opened its flagship store, on Via Sant’Andrea. The boutique carries womenswear, haute couture, accessories and footwear and the interior décor reflects the brand’s aesthetics: minimal, modern and mysterious. Founded in Paris in 1988 by Belgian designer Martin Margiela, Maison Margiela is one of the most cerebral fashion houses. Over the years, it has created a benchmark for elegance with its classic – yet radical – collections. Designer John Galliano has been at the creative helm of the company since 2014. th Maison Margiela, Via Sant’Andrea 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 798928, maisonmargiela.com * for map go to page 118

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

HOME STYLE Etro has unveiled its latest range for the home, which features armchairs, sofas, beds, lights and tables. The company has combined excellent craftsmanship and materials with the bold prints and fine fabrics for which it is known, including its distinctive paisley pattern. Elements of Etro’s design heritage run through the collection while shapes are distinctly modern. As with all Etro creations, truly fine materials have been used, ranging from lacquered woods to luxurious hides and sumptuous velvets. These sleek designs punctuated with bold prints are sure to be a talking point in any home. fm Etro, Via Pontaccio 17/Vicolo Fiori, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8909 5080, etro.com * for map go to page 132

THE ORI GINAL AMERI CA N BRAN D

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WINNING CONCEPT Founded in 2008 by fashion enthusiasts Ezia Degiovanini and Tomomiysu Iwata, N30 Milano is a multibrand store which is recognised as a landmark in international fashion.

This destination houses collections from young designers and established names and labels, including Cristiano Burani, Alessia Xoccato, Giannico, Rochas, Antonio Berardi and Laura Strambi. Designers are chosen for their trendsetting garments and jewellery, resulting in an eclectic mix of offerings. Take time to admire the window display overseen by the store’s visual art director and buyer Francesco Biacca who works with the featured designers to create beautiful installations. km N30 Milano, Via della Spiga 30, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7377, n30milano.com * for map go to page 122

ITALIAN STYLE Bottega Veneta has opened its first Home Collection boutique in Milan, located within the 18th-century Palazzo Gallarati Scotti.

This vast store is aimed at those who seek luxurious furnishings crafted from the highest quality materials, and the items available include furniture, lighting and home decorations. Bottega Veneta’s vision of an Italian lifestyle is reflected throughout, and creative director Tomas Maier designed the store to connect the past and the present: here, modern design is informed by the luxury and craftsmanship of heritage. Introduced in 2006, the Home Collection’s first item was a bench designed

by Maier which featured the same materials as used to make the brand’s luggage. fm Bottega Veneta, Via Montenapoleone 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 4495, bottegaveneta.com * for map go to page 120 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

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LIMITED-EDITION LEATHER Prestigious Florentine accessories specialist Gianfranco Lotti has recently opened a luxurious boutique. To celebrate, 20 limitededition styles have been created which are exclusive to the store on Via Montenapoleone and make wonderful souvenirs for those who

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

are able to secure one of these special items.

The store carries the brand’s latest collection of sophisticated handbags, stylish briefcases, beautiful gloves and more, all made with the finest materials and attention to detail. hl Gianfranco Lotti, Via Montenapoleone 14, 20121 Milan, +39 02 9132 5892, gianfrancolotti.com * for map go to page 120

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MILANO - Via Manzoni 19 - Tel. +39 02 72022800

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EXPLORE MIROGLIO Conceived as a store that is filled with clothes and accessories that have a feel-good factor, Miroglio Piazza Della Scala brings together Miroglio’s many womenswear labels. Highlights from Caractère and Elena Mirò form a stylish selection of apparel,

complemented by pieces from Miroglio’s other brands including Motivi, Oltre and Luisa Viola.

The store will delight those who are familiar with these labels and provides a wonderful introduction for those who are new to them. mkh Miroglio Piazza Della Scala, Via Verdi 2/Via Manzoni, 20121 Milan, +39 02 9738 9718, mirogliopiazzadellascala.com * for map go to page 126

ALL THE TIME IN THE WORLD Pisa Orologeria is a familyrun company that prides itself on stocking world-leading luxury and artisanal watches and has become well respected throughout the city. The latest addition to Pisa Orologeria’s portfolio showcases designs from luxury names including Audemars Piguet and Zenith.

Aficionados can view the company’s technicians at work in the boutique’s captivating laboratory and can spend time looking at the books dedicated to the craft of horology. sm Pisa Orologeria, Via Petro Verri/Via Montenapoleone 9, 20121 Milan, +39 02 762081, pisaorologeria.com * for map go to page 118 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

MILANO | Piazza San Babila 3 | Tel. +39 02 760.003.66 10 STORES IN THE CITY

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PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

From vibrant faux-fur coats to cartoon-printed caps, Italy’s leading fashion labels are adding a dose of humour to their collections this season, says Sally McIlhone

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I

Choose a Bugs Bunny belt, a Tweety Pieadorned baseball cap or a charm belt with the whole gang Duck, Bugs Bunny and friends emblazoned on jumper dresses, oversized baseball shirts and 1990s-inspired sporty separates.

The label’s founder Franco Moschino was known for featuring Popeye and Olive Oyl and the current creative director, Jeremy Scott, is carrying on the tradition of using cartoon characters. ‘I thought it would be fun to continue with the whole element that is very traditionally Moschino, which is cartoons,’ he told Marie Claire UK. ‘I’ve tried to bring some other characters into the vernacular of Moschino. This season, I took Looney Tunes, because I love how each one has such a diferent personality and everyone identifes with one character or another.’ Choose a Bugs Bunny belt, a Tweety Pie-adorned baseball cap or a charm belt with the whole gang to lighten up sombre winter wardrobes with a touch of comedy and colour.

Versace’s playful touches are less overt

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

n recent years, no fashion moment has caused quite as much excitement as when actors Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson stormed Valentino’s autumn/winter 2015/16 show as their male model alter egos, Derek Zoolander and Hansel.

Stiller wore a midnight-blue printed satin suit while Wilson was dressed in a pale-blue printed pyjama-style two-piece; both topped of their looks with overcoats casually slung over their shoulders. Although the stunt was designed to publicise the Zoolander sequel, which will reach screens in 2016, the pair summed up the theme that’s pervaded this season’s collections: fun.

Italy’s luxury labels tend to be sartorially serious but at the moment designers are eschewing winter wardrobes full of dark colours and uptight accessories, and seem to have found their funny bones. Valentino’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri set the tone in an interview with Dazed & Confused magazine: ‘Fashion can be very serious but it can also be fun too!’

One label that has always had its tongue frmly in its cheek is Moschino, and many of its previous collections have taken cues from playful cultural icons, from Barbie – the original blonde bombshell with a penchant for pink – to the plush teddy bear that now forms the packaging for its Toy fragrance.

This season, it is the turn of Looney Tunes cartoons to take centre stage, with Dafy

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Previous page: Moschino autumn/winter 2015/16 Above (from left): Valentino; Moschino, both autumn/winter 2015/16

this season, with the label opting for colourblocking outfts and extreme accessories.

Thigh-high suede platform boots in punchy tomato red and lemon yellow are ofered alongside oversized sunglasses that blend a geek-chic square frame with cat’s eye curves.

However, Versace’s standout piece this season certainly cuts a cartoonish dash – an emerald green faux fur coat with wide lapels that stops just above the knee. Sesame Street meets couture, if you will.

Dolce & Gabbana is also incorporating faux fur and texture into its autumn/winter collection, applying it to oversized ivy-coloured tote bags to great efect. At Milan Fashion Week, the label also presented a series of delightful shift dresses embroidered with childlike representations of houses, fowers, trees and cats, as if they were blank canvases on which children have drawn. The designers are typically purveyors of perfect polish so this diversion, championing designs that are sweet and innocent and reveling in imperfection, is a joy.

Continuing this season’s faux fur trend, Above (clockwise from top lef): Versace; Dolce & Gabbana; MSGM, all autumn/winter 2015/16

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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Milan-based label MSGM, founded by designer Massimo Giorgetti, presented a range of textured options in exuberant colours. The patchwork fufy jacket with patches of pink faux fur, in a variety of shades and lengths and juxtaposed with splashes of black and white, was a collection highlight. Giorgetti also ofered jumper dresses, tops and miniskirts adorned with oversized multicoloured leaves, along with minidresses featuring tapestry, evoking childhood scribbles, in a palette of pink, teal, black and white.

Another token of childhood, the Rubik’s Cube, was transported into the fashion world as it provided inspiration for a 1960s-infected minidress and matching coat by Au Jour Le Jour. The cubist-style dress was designed to banish winter blues with its graphic print and enticing colour palette. Other eye-catching items from the label’s autumn/winter 2015/16 collection include record-shaped bags and coats, jumpers and skirts emblazoned with scenes of dancing crowds in colour-pop shades.

Adding an accessory is an easy way to embrace this trend, and Marni’s disc-shaped earrings in Perspex make a statement despite being ofered in muted tones of white, cream, red and chocolate brown.

Above all, this season’s collections prove that, although the weather may be dull, your wardrobe doesn’t have to be. Italy’s leading fashion brands prove that the best way to make it through to spring is to embrace humorous, playful outfts and standout accessories that are sure to make you smile on even the darkest days valentino.com, moschino.com, versace.com, dolcegabbana.com, msgm.it, aujourlejour.it, marni.com Above (from top): Marni; Au Jour Le Jour, both autumn/winter 2015/16

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

The best way to make it through to spring is to embrace humorous, playful outfits and standout accessories

FAMILY VALUES

PHOTO: Š GORUNWAY.COM

Commitment to both fashion and philanthropy lies at the heart of the Ermenegildo Zegna brand, as Anna Zegna tells Verity Hogan

PHOTO: © ANDREA PISAPIA/SPAZIOORTI14

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‘Zegna has always had this sense of responsibility,’ notes Anna Zegna, granddaughter of Ermenegildo Zegna and president of the Zegna Foundation.

Philanthropy has been part of the Zegna brand since its launch in 1910 and the company has become known for both its commitment to high-quality fashion and its charitable concerns. The two go hand in hand, says Anna Zegna, ‘like a weave when you create a fabric, everything is very smooth and consistent.’

This interweaving can be seen on the catwalk. Stefano Pilati, the brand’s head of design, took inspiration for his autumn/winter 2015 collection from the same ecological concerns refected at the company’s wool factory in picturesque Trivero and in the work of the foundation. Models emerged from a lush tropical forest, striding down a soil-covered catwalk dressed in archive Harris tweeds, selected for their authenticity and recyclability.

The show perfectly encapsulated the aims of the foundation: to improve the quality of life of people and communities, while also showcasing the company’s heritage appeal.

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Zegna’s family vision has proved one of its great strengths

Previous page: Ermenegildo Zegna autumn/winter 2015/16 Above (from top): Zegna factory, Trivero; Anna Zegna, president of the Zegna Foundation

Milano Via della Spiga, 42 tel. 02 76015435

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company’s charitable concerns since childhood.

‘It’s part of where I come from,’ she explains.

‘We were lucky enough to be born in Trivero where the landscape is lush. We lived in a house which had a garden, but, in a way, the garden for us was the entire mountain because my grandfather reforested it in the 1930s, so we were really participating in his vision and living it in a very spontaneous way – it was as if you were born in the woods.’

Set high in the mountains, close to the Swiss border, the hamlet of Trivero is undoubtedly an inspiring environment. Trivero is also home to the Zegna factory, surrounded

by Oasi Zegna, a freely accessible nature park established in 1993. The park was designed, says Anna Zegna, to give people ‘the opportunity to enjoy an experience in nature, an education but through experience rather than in a classroom.’ Standout features include Above (all): Ermenegildo Zegna autumn/winter 2015/16

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

The Foundation has a long-term approach, only taking on projects that will last for at least three years

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exp eri ence more schi WALK ING TH E W OR LD

Mil a n o | p ia zz a s a n B a bi l a, 1/ 3 - P h + 39 02 7 62 80 52 9

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the rhododendron valley, which bursts into colourful blooms in May and June, as well as the panoramic road, which afords spectacular mountain views.

Environmental projects are just one part of the Zegna Foundation’s extensive remit. The company is involved in projects in each of its markets, working to meet diferent needs in Italy, China, India and Africa. ‘In certain communities it really means the basics, such as digging a well in Africa near Kilimanjaro,’ explains Anna Zegna. ‘In other places it might mean having an impact on the environment, in others it’s vocational skills training. When the Foundation started we were much more separated, it was education or work, health or food. Today, when you work on one, you have an impact on them all.’

Zegna’s family vision has proved one of its great strengths. ‘I think it gives you a more long-term view,’ Anna Zegna afrms. ‘It’s characteristic of a family, you look at your children and you think of the children of those children and it gives a sort of continuity.’

As a result, the brand’s collections of sharply tailored suits, cashmere knits and overcoats have a timeless sensibility and the Foundation has a long-term approach, only taking on projects that will last for at least three years. The company often exceeds this target; Zegna has been working with the Care & Share children’s charity in India for nine years and has just celebrated the 10th anniversary of its collaboration with the World Wildlife Fund in China. ‘It’s very interesting to see how a project evolves over the years,’ notes Anna Zegna.

‘That’s why it’s very important not to stay for

Above (from left): artisan at work in the factory, Trivero; Z Zegna autumn/winter 2015/16

H A P P Y S PO R T

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just one year but to continue.’

Wherever possible Zegna collaborates with local organisations in order to achieve the most impact. ‘We never start a project unless we have been there and we have spoken to the people,’ says Anna Zegna. ‘Our values should mirror the other people’s values so that even if the language is diferent, the skin colour is diferent, the hemisphere is diferent, we still share a common goal.’ This commitment to doing things properly is echoed in the Trivero wool factory.

Every piece of fabric produced is checked and meticulously fnished by hand to ensure the highest quality product.

The Foundation’s latest project is based in Italy, working to relaunch a textile atelier for the San Patrignano rehabilitation community near Rimini. ‘It still uses hand looms and we’re trying to merge their knowledge with our experts who go to teach and explain how to create a fashion project,’ Anna Zegna explains. ‘The response has been amazing, the number of girls at the atelier has doubled and it’s actually making money. It’s been amazing to see that when you give them time and a vision, they really take it in and give it back to you 10 times over.’

With its commitment to improving the quality of life for people and communities around the world, Ermenegildo Zegna sets itself apart from other fashion brands. It’s an ethos that has a major impact on the way it runs its wool factory and, ultimately, produces its collections – and means Zegna will remain a byword for timeless quality for many generations to come zegna.com

Above (from top): the brand works with the Care & Share charity in India; Z Zegna autumn/winter 2015/16 presentation, held at the brand’s showroom

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PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

Milan’s major fashion houses are putting forward a different vision of women this season, where individual style can shine.

Harriet Quick unpacks the new approach

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PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

hey say that in fashion sex sells. Plunging necklines, hourglass shapes, thigh-slit skirts and lingerie-inspired looks have been favoured by Milanese designers for decades: smoldering, bed-headed women at Gucci, empowered goddesses at Versace, Roberto Cavalli’s Amazonian beauties and the Sicilian black lace-corseted seductresses of Dolce & Gabbana are famous images in fashion’s archives.

Yet, this season fashion houses have had a rethink and have declared that it’s time to change. A more complex and multi-faceted picture of women has emerged that triumphs individuality and quirkiness over highly glossed perfection.

Nowhere is this turnaround more marked and dramatic than at Gucci. Under Frida Giannini, the label’s previous creative director, an image of a sexualised woman was promoted.

The house’s new creative director Alessandro Michele has usurped this look, with a gauche girl, complete with heavy rimmed glasses and barely done hair. Willowy silhouettes drape and move around the body rather than tightly hugging the wearer. Frilled, foral-print chifon

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Previous page: Gigi Hadid at the Max Mara autumn/winter 2015/16 show Above (from top): Gucci (both); Prada, all autumn/winter 2015/16

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dresses, fur coats, silk pussy-bow blouses and masculine trousers are worn in a haphazard, carefree way, with creases visible on jackets and hems, all suggesting Michele’s fascination with storytelling.

Gucci provides this season’s accessory of choice, with its horse bit logo bag in canvas, a product that has suddenly morphed from being retro to being cool. Fashion’s new direction was summed up in the brand’s spring/summer 2015 advertising campaign; shot by Glen Luchford, it depicted a relaxed couple in a time-worn apartment.

The feeling of the unfnished and the unsaid, the nuance rather than the statement, Clockwise (from top lef): Alberta Ferreti; Prada; Marni, all autumn/winter 2015/16

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

Gucci provides this season’s accessory of choice, with its horse bit logo bag in canvas

O L I V I A PA L E R M O L o n d o n , M a r c h 2 0 15 MA X ANDCO.COM

MIL ANO Corso Vit torio Emanuele

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Milan’s catwalks are showing a move away from an obsession with perfection

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

breezed through Milan Fashion Week. Miuccia Prada took us on a chromatic odyssey with the palest cherry blossom pink and acid green tailored silk and jersey suits shown alongside cocktail dresses with fur shoulder straps and long leather gloves. The cut was roomy, giving the wearer and the viewer space to breath.

At Marni, Consuelo Castiglioni described her take on the trend as ‘twisted femininity’, with sleeveless coats, fur-pocketed skirts and fuzzy fower prints on soft wool outsized coats.

The team at Alberta Ferretti found a wealth of

inspiration in the Italian Renaissance, with embroidered velvet, patchwork jacquard and high necks on intricately worked blouses. Even the most conservative brands changed tack this season. Max Mara wrapped its lead model Gigi Hadid in an outsized tailored version of its classic camel coat and followed through with big sweaters casually dropped over slim-line skirts.

Milan’s catwalks are showing a move away from an obsession with perfection and instead designers are indicating that it’s fne to relax into our own style. Start by looking for pieces that are meaningful – whether the new long-length skirt, a rippling chifon blouse or a sleeveless coat – and let these fold into your look.

What will naturally surface is a sensuality that suggests to the world that women are worth so much more than a sum of their bodily parts gucci.com, prada.com, marni.com, albertaferretti.com, maxmara.com

Above (from left): Marni; Alberta Ferretti, both autumn/winter 2015/16

Iceberg Downtown Gallery Lily McMenamy, model and actress London photo Olivier Zahm

Milano - Via Verri 4 ang. Via Bigli

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TABLE TALK

Recent restaurant openings show that Milan’s culinary scene is on top form, as Isabella Redmond Styles fnds out

Located in the Lombardy province, Milan and its surrounding towns have long been viewed as gastronomic destinations. It is interesting to note that in this region, rice is traditionally preferred to pasta and tomatoes are used sparingly. With its focus on meat and on buttery favours, the region’s cuisine is ideal for the winter. Classic dishes from the area include osso buco – stewed veal shank that’s typically served with risotto alla Milanese, a creamy risotto lightly favoured with safron; cassoeula, a meaty stew of pork chops and sausage; and cotoletta alla Milanese, a breadcrumb-coated veal cutlet which is similar to schnitzel. For cheese lovers, Lombardy is a must-visit on account of its specialities, including Taleggio, gorgonzola and grana padano, while at Christmas, the area is renowned for its panettone, fragant sweetbread made with candied citrus zest and raisins. Milan’s leading restaurants uphold the city’s reputation not only for gastronomic excellence but for eye-catching design and innovative concepts. globalblue.com

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PHOTO: SANTI CALECA

PI SACCO Pisacco aims to provide a home-from-home atmosphere while serving exceptional food and paying homage to the arts. Consultant chef Andrea Berton, whose Ristorante Trussardi Alla Scala in Milan was awarded two Michelin stars, oversees Pisacco’s menu of ‘traditionally modern Italian cuisine’. Even dishes that may appear to be simple turn out to be packed with flavour, such as the spaghetti with tomato, basil and buffalo milk mozzarella sauce, while the classic regional dish risotto alla Milanese also benefits from Pisacco’s touch. The bar is the perfect spot for all-day light bites: try the Toast Berton, crusty bread with fabulous quality prosciutto and Asiago cheese. A striking mural by Gabriella Ciancimino provides a talking point, along with the frequently changing collection of contemporary art.

Pisacco, Via Solferino 48, 20121 Milan, +39 02 9176 5472, pisacco.it

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A LICE R ISTOR ANTE Alice Ristorante’s chef Viviana Varese grew up in the kitchen of her family’s fsh restaurant in the Campania region of south-west Italy.

She developed her culinary skills at renowned establishments such as El Celler de Can Roca in Spain and went on to take over Alice Ristorante, an already established restaurant, with Sandra Ciciriello in 2007. Alice Ristorante is now located on the second foor of the Milan branch of Eataly (a small chain of high-end food malls), overlooking Piazza 25 Aprile. The dining room is decorated with ornaments and plants chosen by the women, which reference the origins of the restaurant and of the chef.

Fish and vegetables form the backbone of the menu and highlights include carpaccio of fresh fsh with fruit and herbs, as well as the Superspaghettino featuring squid julienne and clams.

Alice Ristorante, Eataly, Piazza 25 Aprile 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4949 7340, aliceristorante.it globalblue.com

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T H E S TAG E Fine dining and denim may sound like a strange proposition, but fashion brand Replay has made a success out of this idea. The restaurant is housed in the same building as Replay’s recently opened store on Piazza Gae Aulenti and has been created by award-winning designers Roman and Williams. The interior of the opulent dining room has been inspired by traditional cinemas and classic Italian globalblue.com

liners, with plenty of glossy, curved African mahogany. Chef Omar Allievi oversees a menu which is divided into fve sections – traditional, discovery, ceviche, sushi and sashimi – and includes modern Milanese dishes. Have a drink at Octavius, the adjoining ‘house of spirits and fancy drinks’ where guests can enjoy expertly made cocktails at the sleek steel and brass bar.

The Stage, Piazza Gae Aulenti 4, 20124 Milan, +39 02 3707 4118, replaythestage.com

PHOTO: GIANMARCO CHIEREGATO

PHOTO: NATHALIE KRAG FOR TANJA SOLCI STUDIO

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FILIPPO LA MANTIA

CARLO E CAMILLA

Having established a much-praised restaurant in Rome, chef Filippo La Mantia set up a new venture in Milan. Expect La Mantia’s signature style of southern Italian home cooking, with a menu full of vibrant dishes such as citrus fruit pesto, caponata, and veal with pecorino cheese and a toasted almond sauce. The dishes are inspired by La Filippo’s Sicilian upbringing but, as the chef is keen to explain, his new enterprise encompasses far more than food to showcase his other passions, including wine, music, motorcycles and photography.

The restaurant has been designed by Italian architect Piero Lissoni and the impressive twostorey space includes a day bar and a night bar as well as an area for cookery displays.

Filippo La Mantia, Piazza Risorgimento/Via Poerio 2A, 20129 Milan, +39 02 7000 5309, flippolamantia.com

Carlo Cracco’s latest venture invites diners into a rather surreal world. Although located in a former sawmill in Milan, Carlo e Camilla sets out to recreate a country home, to beautiful efect. There are spectacular crystal chandeliers, while the furnishings focus on Italian design – think Cappellini chairs and ceramics by Richard Ginori. Diners sit at two long intersecting tables to encourage a communal and convivial atmosphere while, in the kitchen, executive chef Emanuele Pollini creates a regularly changing menu of traditional Italian recipes with a contemporary twist. Master bartender Filippo Sisti mixes showstopping cocktails at the bar, many of which utilise cooking techniques such as baking, pan-frying and vacuum packing.

Carlo e Camilla, Segheria, Via Giuseppe Meda 24, 20141 Milan, +39 02 837 3963, carloecamillainsegheria.it

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this is where we tell you what to wear

diesel.com

Diesel Planet Store Milan piazza San Babila, 1/3

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STAY IN STYLE The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-theart treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

LA RÉSERVE PARIS Despite being within walking distance of the Champs-Élysées, La Réserve is a surprisingly peaceful place to stay. A Haussmann-style urban mansion, the hotel boasts spacious rooms, marble freplaces and rich fabrics throughout while amenities include a library, smoking lounge and – unusually for Paris – a globalblue.com

16-metre indoor swimming pool. The hotel restaurant, Le Gabriel, is a highlight, while the lush inner courtyard is an added bonus.

Apartments are available for longer stays; services include daily housekeeping, private chefs and in-room spa treatments.

La Réserve Paris, 42 avenue Gabriel, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5836 6060, lareserve-paris.com

PHOTO: SIMON BROWN

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THE PELHAM With its distinctive, brightly coloured yet elegant interior, The Pelham is one of London’s most recognisable boutique hotels. The hotel’s location in South Kensington provides guests with easy access to the city’s fnest museums and most prestigious shopping streets, while each of its 51 rooms and suites boasts an

individual décor characterised by antique furnishings, original artworks and rich fabrics.

A host of carefully considered touches add to The Pelham’s appeal, from fatscreen televisions and complimentary Wi-Fi to an umbrella in every room.

The Pelham, 15 Cromwell Place, London SW7 2LA, +44 (0)20 7589 8288, pelhamhotel.co.uk

Exceptionally light. Innovatively designed.

Made in Europe.

Lightweight: from 2.3 kg for Spinner 55cm

Made in Europe

MILANO Samsonite Store via San Pietro all’Orto 11 - via Belfiore 6 - C.C. Fiordaliso – ROMA Trunk & Co Store via del Tritone 149

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COTTON HOUSE HOTEL Set within the former headquarters of the Cotton Textile Foundation, Cotton House Hotel, which prioritises comfort, refects its heritage by naming its rooms after diferent fabrics. The 19th-century neoclassical building has been carefully renovated, preserving its original features while introducing globalblue.com

contemporary, cotton-inspired dĂŠcor in a colour palette of black, white and sepia.

Guests can work up an appetite while enjoying panoramic city views in the rooftop pool before dining at the in-house restaurant Batuar, which serves a tapas-style menu of market-fresh Mediterranean cuisine.

Cotton House Hotel, Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 670, 08010 Barcelona, +34 93 450 5045, hotelcottonhouse.com

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PALAIS HANSEN KEMPINSKI Vienna’s Palais Hansen Kempinski has embodied luxury and refnement since it opened in 1873. Each of the hotel’s 152 rooms boasts subtle décor complemented by fne fabrics, marble bathrooms and hi-tech amenities including iPad entertainment systems – a globalblue.com

seamless marriage of tradition and modernity.

Guests can enjoy Michelin-starred fne dining at the in-house Edvard restaurant or try a selection of home-cooked Austrian specialities at Die Küche Wien. The spa ofers a sauna, hydro pool and a menu of services ranging from manicures to advanced anti-ageing treatments.

Palais Hansen Kempinski, Schottenring 24, 1010 Vienna, +43 (0)1 236 1000, kempinski.com

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EXPERIENCE THE NEW LUXURY LIFEST YLE Welcome to the world of Porsche Design. A world that stays eternally young, fresh, and cool by passionately driving for innovation. A world where new quality materials, technologies, and ďŹ nest functional elegance blend into a truly exclusive, iconic contemporary design. Some call it luxury? We call it essentials for a challenging future.

We are proud to design for the man and woman of tomorrow. www.porsche-design.com Porsche Design Milano | Via della Spiga 42

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GUIDE

PHOTO: PROVINCE OF MILAN - TOURISM SECTOR - VISITAMILANO.IT

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Milan with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from luxury fashion stores to specialist boutiques. Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/milan.

A GLIMPSE OF MILAN Above: a panoramic view of Santa Maria Nuova and San Bernardino churches

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SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOS: XIMENA DANERI; VERITY HOGAN; SALLY MCILHONE; RUAIRIDH PRITCHARD

‘The vibrant style and atmosphere of Milan capture me anew each time I visit. It is simply one of the most exciting cities in the world’ Ximena Daneri, SHOP’s fashion editor

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Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopcontent. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

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118 | G U I D E

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DOLCE & GABBANA Dolce & Gabbana’s latest fragrance releases, Velvet Exotic Leather and Velvet Mimosa Bloom, result from the design duo’s exploration of the ancient traditions of perfumery. Like other fragrances in the Velvet collection, the new scents are built on the olfactory memories of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, and are designed to awake the senses with their intensity. For men, Exotic Leather recreates the essence of masculine skin, featuring woody notes as well as the complex scent of leather itself.

For women, Mimosa Bloom places the mimosa fower centre stage; mandarin, bergamot, narcissus and violet all further enhance this complex foral fragrance.

Dolce & Gabbana, Corso Venezia 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 4091, dolcegabbana.com * for map go to page 115 Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

Café

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 19 20121 MILANO TEL: +39 02 76003697 MONDAY- SUNDAY 10 AM - 7 PM SHOP AT TESTONI.COM

122 | G U I D E

SPIGA & VIA MANZONI AREA Via della Spiga

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BRIC’S Mixing fashion with function, Bric’s specialises in travel accessories. Its Bellagio collection is styled on a classic luggage silhouette and made from ultralight yet durable materials. Each piece is handcrafted, with luxury details such as a Tuscan leather trim. This timeless trolley comes equipped with a rainproof zip, a double-deck interior to allow for multiple compartments, ergonomically designed Japanese wheels that swivel 360 degrees and a combination lock that has been approved by the US Transportation Security Administration.

Bric’s, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8909 8043, brics.it * for map go to page 112

OMEGA The exclusive Via Montenapoleone is the ideal setting for Omega’s newly opened boutique, the frst Italian fagship for the Swiss watchmaker.

Spanning three storeys, the shop stocks the brand’s timepieces in addition to its fne jewellery and leather collections.

Visitors can expect impeccable personal service from the

highly knowledgeable members of staf.

Omega, Via Montenapoleone 9, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0984, omegawatches.com * for map go to page 120

FRATELLI ROSSETTI Fratelli Rossetti has given a Bauhaus spin to its accessories for the autumn and winter, updating some of its core looks with the bold lines and contrasting colours of this architectural style. Originally launched in 1975, these ankle boots have been reimagined in bold colour schemes, which make use of contrasting textures and shades. The new design of this classic shape brings 1970s style to the modern day.

Fratelli Rossetti, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1650, fratellirossetti.com * for map go to page 120 globalblue.com

126 | G U I D E

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GALLERIE D’ARTE-PIAZZA SCALA Piazza Scala

Global Blue Retailer

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128 | G U I D E

DANTE & MAGENTA AREA Corso Magenta

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● BATA ● ALDO CITTERIO ● 3 STORE ● GIOIELLERIA FEDELI ● PELLETTERIA RICCARDI ● VODAFONE ● OROLOGERIA AL DUOMO ● SAVINELLI ● LE SCARPE DI PAOLO ● BLU SAND

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COLTELLERIA ● LORENZI MILANO ● CAMICISSIMA ● JOHN ASHFIELD GIOIELLERIA ● FALLIVA PANIZZI ● GREAT MASTERS OF TIME ● PELLINI ● M. BARDELLI I

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TEATRO LITTA BANG & OLUFSEN ● CRIPTONIT ● DOTTI ● CALAMAI ●

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PERLITA ● CASA DEL BIANCO ● MARIONNAUD ● BOTTA GIOIELLI ● BOGGI ● FLAMANT ● MATIAS OUTLET ● PERFUME BY CALÈ ● DASSI ● LA PICCOLA GIOIELLERIA ● M.C.M. SANTA MARIA NOVELLA ● ERA L'ORA ●

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● HILDEGARD ● ESIBIUSI ● EYETEC OTTICA ● CAMICERIA TIZIANO ● MELLUSO STORE l WOOL CASHMERE

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

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MILANO, Piazza Duomo 19 - contacts: +39 02 87 40 10 - info@cielo.it

130 | G U I D E

CORSO COMO, GAE AULENTI & BRERA AREA Piazza Gae Aulenti, Corso Como & Corso Garibaldi STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI GARIBALDI FS ● LA FELTRINELLI RED

SELECTED SHOPS IN STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI:

Piazza Gae Aulenti

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COSTU ME NATIO NAL ● CAPE LOUBO UTIN ● NZO ● LES HOMMES E NC VI A D ID A S ● V. ● DSQUARED 2 P IN K B O G GO ● N AU G V IA I H CA CO M T Y D O G ● RL ● ORET OD ● T MAN EC G A N OO ● ● H S L RIS 10 ● TO U CORSO A L A IN -B O AT FO C ● ● BOU OMO R A N T E M IK L I ● L P.50 IS E DE NE P R IM ● M IG A A● E SS ● B O U IM O R E B E C L C E H I DE NE G -S H ● MA IG E OCK SS ● AV E IM O R E B E L A M BOULE D NAELE ● CC H I R A IS O ● E ● ER A Y N M O B E IG E ● L 55 MON I' ● OTTICA ARTIOLI ● ● HIGH TECH

VIA PRIV ATA N

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SE PH O CO L R A ● MA R●

● ACCESSORIZE ● CALZEDONIA ● EUROBIJOUX ● FOOT LOCKER I ● GEMELLI GIOIELLI SPER O ● LA FELTRINELLIIA TIT V ● TEZENIS

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● 120% LINO ● VINTAGE WATCHES MILANO ● ARTEST BUT TER O ● ● SPAZIO 23 ● ASAP ● CUSTO BARCELONA ● BERGOMI

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WOK STORE For an eclectic mix of fashion and art, visit the Wok Store, which is always full of inspiration.

The owners Federica Zambon and Simona Citarella aim to showcase the work of new artists and designers from

Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

around the world and the store frequently collaborates with art galleries. Among the selection of avant garde fashion visitors may well fnd unique pieces by contemporary artists.

Wok Store, Viale Col di Lana 5A, 20136 Milan, +39 02 8982 9700, wok-store.com

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Train Station

Metro

www.henrycottons.com

McArthurGlen Designer Outlet Serravalle Via della Moda, 1 Serravalle Scrivia (AL) | Shop n. 22

132 | G U I D E

Corso Garibaldi, Via Ponte Vetero & Via Madonnina DEL LA M

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DI

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● KRISTI NA TI ● THE S LOW ER STORE VIA GOITO

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OTTICA AVANZI ● BLU DEEP ● GIOIELLI MERÙ ● PESERICO ● MALI PARMI ● LE PANDORINE ● ZUCCHI HOME FASHION ● SOLFERINO MARKET ● O NTACCI VIA PO

VIA SOLFERINO

●F RAN CES CA B ●N Y SO A D IA T T IN CO R I TI ●D EL S EY ● IL Q UA D R IL AT E ●M RO D ONT E S IG EZE N MOL O ● JA SM MY STY LE BA GS ● IN E M ● GU IL A N O VIA PA ● F IG S E L L A LER MO SA LEWA ● ● C L U S D E S IG NER ● M EP BLA CK BEL IVE Y TE ● ● M POR LA M SFO RZ A ● B R A D R AG A RY S H GIO IEL LI ● OP N U ● RU NO BEN E IN I D E CO N ● GH C EP T ● C R IG L IN O AVAT TA & CAM ● EN IC IA Z ● G IA O M A N T O NNI C H IA VA N I R IN I ● L IO L A'

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BOFFI SOLFERINO ● FALIERO SARTI ● ST. BARTH ● AMINA RUBINACCI ● LIBERO MILANO ● OLLY ● SONIA DE NISCO ● THE STORE ●

VIA SOLFERINO

VIA

Via Solferino & Via Brera

● L'OCCITANE ● JE M'EN FOUS ● LA TENDA ● BAGATT ● ILIPRANDI ● LE SOLFERINE ● GIADA PROFUMERIE

RICHARD VIA FATEBENEFRATELLI ● GINORI PIAZETTA S. MARCO

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Featured In This Issue

VIA DEL LAUR

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P.52

Non-Global Blue Retailer

L'E RB OL AR

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VIA CUSANI

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VETERO

BS JA C O M A RC R C BY RSO GE ● ● MA TS E L L'O ID D R A B Y R AR T T IC THE O● FUME P IN K ● ● O E PER F IN I 9 N IN A ● R E S ● L IU JO ● ● P R IA LT E R ERDI V IA V G M ● ● WA È S M IO F F R G ● ● N O OMA IL E MUST 55 - W - M EN ● ● E G GENT A V IN T TA G E 5 5 O S E ● S IM O ● CO O V IN G N VIA DELL’ORSO OLDE M I -G F L AG

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P.136

134 | G U I D E

TOP TIP...

L’ARABESQUE

Rediscover the art of letter writing at historic Milanese stationer and printer F Pettinaroli. Founded in 1881, the store is known for its superlative cards, writing paper and notebooks. The selection also includes antique prints as well as leather accessories.

F Pettinaroli, Piazza San Fedele 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8646 4642, fpettinaroli.it

A visit to L’Arabesque is like taking a step back in time, albeit to a perfectly curated and impeccably stylish version of the past. The store is known for its vintage clothing and costume jewellery alongside rare 1950s and 1960s designer furniture.

Browse the store’s library of out-of-print fashion, photography, interiors, art and flm publications before heading to the in-house restaurant.

L’Arabesque, Largo Augusto 10, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7601 4825, larabesque.net

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corso Vittorio Emanuele

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FOSSIL● IANA ● SOLARIS ● ● JDC URBAN STORE KIKO ● ● MERREL PEPE JEANS ● ● F.LLI SOLENNE GIOIELLI STEFANEL ● ● MILANO HOUSE OF CASHMERE DOUGLAS ● PERSONA ● ALTIERI ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

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GUCCI When it comes to classic luxury, Gucci is among the biggest names in Italian fashion.

Its current menswear collection features an androgynous twist. Traditionally an item of women’s clothing, the pussy bow blouse is a key piece in the collection and is paired with wide-legged trousers and a knitted sleeveless jumper. Meanwhile, knee-length overcoats

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and a forest green peak-lapelled suit will appeal to those looking for more conventional menswear items. The label’s famous loafer is reimagined with a fur lining to complete an adventurous collection of fashion-forward menswear.

Gucci, Via Brera 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 720 2921, gucci.com * for map go to page 132 Metro

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FIDENZA VILLAGE Fidenza Village,

Via San Michele Campagna, 43036 Fidenza, +39 0524 33551, fdenzavillage.com Opening times

Monday-Sunday: 10am-8pm

HOW TO GET THERE

By Car Exit the A1 motorway at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore.

Pass the tollbooth and Fidenza Village is 100 metres to your left.

DON’T MISS …

PERFECT DAY

Shopping & Food experience:

10am

This exclusive package includes: • A guided tour to discover the most prestigious local products, such as Parmiggiano Reggiano cheese • Return tickets from central Milan to Fidenza Village by Shopping Express® • A VIP card providing an additional 10% saving across the village

By Train

®

The Shopping Express® luxury coach service runs from central Milan to Fidenza Village daily.

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12pm Visit the Missoni boutique to discover colourful, fne knits that are a versatile summer staple.

2pm

From Milan: Fidenza station is on the direct line into Milano Centrale with frequent services and a journey time of approximately one hour 15 minutes.

Upon arrival, take the shuttle bus to Fidenza Village; tickets can be purchased on board.

By Shopping Express

The prefect way to start your shopping day is with an Illy espresso.

This is the quintessential cofee preparation – rich, aromatic and velvety.

Shopping & Art experience: This exclusive package includes: • Entrance to the Galleria Nazionale di Parma with its collection of Italian Renaissance masterpieces • Return tickets from central Milan to Fidenza Village by Shopping Express® • A VIP card providing an additional 10% saving across the village

For a taste of typical Italian cuisine, head to Hosteria delle Terre Verdiane where you will discover food that is rich in history and taste and fnd the perfect treat to take home with you.

4pm End your day admiring the innovative collections at Massimo Rebecchi.

This luxurious label is known for combining sleek Italian tailoring with wearable comfort.

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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

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Spend a minimum of €154.94 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

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Malpensa Airport: Terminal 1, Departures check-in, second floor Terminal 1, Area B Extra Schengen, frst floor Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Linate Airport: Forexchange Maccorp, Departures Downtown Milan: La Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer service desk), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan

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TRANSLATIONS

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 66: Houses Of Fun

Модное Остроумие Салли МакИлхоун рассказывает о легендарных итальянских дизайнерах, которые помимо прекрасного чувства стиля, обладают изрядной долей юмора Пожалуй, самым ярким событием мира моды, вызвавшем шквал эмоций и обсуждений, стало появление на шоу-показе Valentino осень-зима 2015/16 Бена Стиллера и Оуэна Уилсона в образах Дерека Зулэндера и Хэнсела из фильма «Образцовый самец». На Стиллере был сатиновый костюм темно-синего оттенка, а на Уилсоне светлоголубой костюм в «пижамном» стиле, в то время как с плеч обоих актеров небрежно свисали шикарные пальто. И хотя задачей актеров был анонс новой части сиквела globalblue.com

«Образцовый самец», выход которого запланирован на 2016 год, они ясно дали понять, что тематикой модных коллекций нового сезона будет не что иное, как юмор. Роскошные итальянские бренды всегда старались быть максимально сдержанными и серьезными в своем творчестве, теперь же все поменялось, и на смену строгим аксессуарам и мрачным зимним гардеробам пришли яркие и смелые цвета. Креативный директор Valentino Мария Грация Кьюри открыто заявила в интервью журналу Dazed & Confused: «Мода не всегда должна быть серьезной».

Moschino – один из брендов, которому не занимать иронии, немало элементов для своих коллекций дизайнеры почерпнули из детских игрушек, от куклы Барби с перламутровыми волосами и розовым нарядом до плюшевого мишки, форму которого приняла упаковка фирменных духов «Toy». В этом сезоне настала очередь героев мультсериала «Looney Tunes»

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командой, которая заметно оживит любой зимний гардероб. Озорные элементы в коллекциях Versace не столь очевидны в этом сезоне, бренд сделал ставку на сочетание ярких цветов и чрезмерных аксессуаров. Сапоги до бедра на платформе из насыщенно-красной и желтой замши сочетаются с большими солнечными очками квадратной формы с заостренными кверху краями. И все-таки одна из новинок этого сезона имеет явную отсылку к мультфильму – это изумрудно-зеленая шуба до колена из искусственного меха с широкими лацканами. Своего рода ответ кутюр «Улице Сезам», если позволите.

Dolce & Gabbana также включили элементы искусственного меха в свою коллекцию осень-зима, дополнив ими большие сумки-тоут темно-зеленого цвета. На Миланской Неделе моды бренд также представил серию очаровательных платьев с узорами, больше напоминающими детские

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(«Веселые мелодии») во главе с Даффи Даком и Багз Банни, которые появились на платьях без рукавов, футболках свободного покроя и спортивной одежде в стиле 1990-х годов. Основатель бренда Франко Москино нередко использовал в своих первых коллекциях героев американского мультфильма о моряке Попае, и креативный директор Джереми Скотт решил продолжить старую добрую традицию. «Я подумал, что будет здорово возродить этот традиционный элемент Moschino, я имею ввиду мультфильмы, – заявил он в интервью журналу Marie Claire UK. – Я попытался добавить и несколько новых героев в наш бренд. Так, в этом сезоне я выбрал команду из «Веселых мелодий», потому что мне нравится выразительность их персонажей и то, как многие привыкли ассоциировать друг друга с каждым из них». На ваш выбор ремень Bugs Bunny, кепка Tweety Pie или очаровательный пояс со всей веселой

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рисунки домиков, цветов, деревьев и кошек. Как правило, дизайнеры всегда стремятся к совершенству в каждой детали, и видеть такие милые, радующие глаз закорючки – большая редкость. Тенденцию на искусственный мех и пестрые тона также поддержал миланский лейбл MSGM, основанный Массимо Джорджетти. Пушистые куртки разных оттенков и длины в стиле пэчворк с меховыми вставками розового цвета сочетались с контрастными нарядами черно-белой расцветки. Кроме того, Джорджетти предложил платья без рукавов, топы и мини-юбки, украшенные крупными разноцветными листьями, а также гобеленовые мини-платья розового, бирюзового, черного и белого оттенков с узорами, напоминающими детские каракули. Еще один образ нашего детства, Кубик Рубика, вошел в мир моды, послужив вдохновением марке Au Jour Le Jour для создания пальто и мини-платья в стиле 1960-х. Это платье, напоминающее полотна кубистов, призвано искоренить мрачные зимние оттенки, заменив их графическим принтом и соблазнительной красочной палитрой. Среди других примечательных новинок коллекции осень-зима 2015/16 выделяются сумки в форме грампластинок, пальто, джемперы и юбки, украшенные пестрыми силуэтами танцующих людей. Идеальным дополнением к этому тренду станут соответствующие аксессуары, и сережки Marni из оргстекла как раз добавят элегантности любому образу, несмотря на приглушенную палитру из белого, кремового и шоколадного. Коллекции этого сезона ясно свидетельствуют о том, что даже скучная, пасмурная погода ни в коем случае не должна влиять на ваш гардероб. А ведущие итальянские бренды помогут вам легко переждать любую зиму, благодаря забавным нарядам и веселым аксессуарам, которые обязательно заставят вас улыбнуться даже в самые мрачные дни. valentino.com, moschino.com, versace.com, dolcegabbana.com, msgm.it, aujourlejour.it, marni.com globalblue.com

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74: Family Values

Семейные Ценности

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Анна Зенья рассказывает Верити Хоган о том, что приверженность стилю и филантропии лежат в основе бренда Ermenegildo Zegna «Zegna всегда было свойственно чувство ответственности», – отмечает Анна Zegna, внучка Ermenegildo Zegna и президент подразделения Zegna Foundation. Благотворительность была частью компании с момента ее основания в 1910 году, с тех пор фирма прославилась приверженностью модным стилям в той же мере, что и филантропии. «Оба эти качества идут рука об руку, – говорит Анна Зенья, – как полотно, когда создается ткань, все очень гладкое и целостное». Такое переплетение заметно и на подиуме. Стефано Пилати, главный дизайнер бренда, черпал свое вдохновение для коллекции осень-зима 2015/16 в тех же экологических проблемах, с которыми борется шерстяная

фабрика в живописном Триверо, и в работе фонда. Модели появлялись из тропического леса, шагая по подиуму, покрытому настоящей почвой, одетые в твид Harris. Его специально извлекли из архивов марки, а выбран он был, благодаря своей аутентичности и пригодности к переработке. Показ прекрасно демонстрирует цели фонда: улучшить качество жизни людей, при этом не забывая о наследии компании. Анну Зенью интересовала благотворительность с детства: «Это часть того, откуда я, – объясняет Анна, – нам повезло родиться в Триверо, с его невероятным пейзажами. Мы жили в доме с садом, но в какой-то степени нашим садом была целая гора, потому что мой дед засадил ее в 1930 году. Мы участвовали в его видении, живя очень натурально, как будто мы родились в лесу». Расположенная в горах близко к швейцарской границе деревушка Триверо, безусловно, очень вдохновляющее место.

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made for the modern trail

introducing the black forest collection.

Apparel, Footwear & Accessories Timberland.com

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Триверо – дом фабрики Ermenegildo Zegna, которая окружена Oasi Zegna – бесплатным природным заповедником, открытом в 1993 году. Парк был спроектирован, – продолжает Анна, – для того, чтобы «дать людям возможность познать природу, но не в школьном классе, а вживую». Из примечательных частей парка здесь есть долина рододендронов, которые превращаются в цветовые бомбы в июне и мае, а также дорога с панорамным видом на горы. Защита природы – всего лишь часть того, что делает фонд. Компания также вовлечена в многочисленные проекты на разных рынках, где она представлена, в Италии, Китае, Индии, Африке. «В некоторых местах это означает абсолютные основы, как, например, сооружение колодцев в Африке, недалеко от Килиманджаро», – объясняет Анна. «В других – это может значить, что нам нужно оказывать влияние на природу, а где-то – обучение профессиональным навыкам. Когда фонд только начинал свою деятельность, мы были гораздо более узкоспециализированными в своих областях, это была либо еда, либо globalblue.com

образование, либо здоровье. Сегодня, когда ты занимаешься чем-то одним, ты оказываешь влияние на все». Особое видение семьи Зенья определенно помогает. «Я думаю, это дает вам долгосрочную перспективу, – подтверждает Анна, – вы смотрите на своих детей и думаете об их детях, а затем и об их детях, – это делает процесс бесконечным». Как результат, коллекции костюмов, кашемира и пальто не устаревают после

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mcarthurglen Designer Outlet Serravalle Via della moda, 1 Serravalle Scrivia (aL) | Shop n. 22

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обеспечить самое лучшее качество. Последний проект фонда располагается в Италии, он направлен на перезапуск швейного ателье при реабилитационном центре Сан Патрьяно, недалеко от Римини. «Они до сих пор используют ручные станки, мы стараемся соединить их знания с нашими, что позволило бы им создать модный проект», – объясняет Анна. «Отклик невероятен: количество швей, работающих здесь, увеличилось вдвое, ателье даже начало приносить прибыль. Потрясающе наблюдать, что ты даешь им время и идею, а они возвращают это в десятикратном размере». Своим стремлением улучшать качество жизни людям и общинам по всему миру Ermenegildo Zegna отделяет себя от других модных марок. Этот этический подход, который влияет на то, как компания содержит свою шерстяную фабрику и все коллекции, распространяется и на видение компании – и делает Ermenegildo Zegna брендом, который по-настоящему создает безупречное качество для будущих поколений. zegna.com

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одного сезона, а фонд берется за проекты длительностью минимум три года. Зачастую компания продолжает сотрудничество и дольше: Zegna Foundation работает с индийской благотворительной компанией Care & Share уже 9 лет, а с китайской организацией World Wildlife Fund недавно отпраздновала десятилетие своего сотрудничества. «Интересно видеть, как развиваются наши проекты за годы существования организации, – отмечает Анна, – именно поэтому так важно не просто присутствовать в течение года, а оставаться». По возможности фонд старается найти местного партнера для того, чтобы увеличить процент успеха. «Мы никогда не начинаем проект, если мы не были там и не говорили с людьми», – считает Анна Зенья. «Наши ценности должны отражать ценности других людей, даже если мы говорим на разных языках, у нас разный цвет кожи и живем мы в разных полушариях, наши цели должны совпадать». Стремление делать все на века отражается и в процессах на шерстяной фабрике в Триверо. Каждый кусок ткани, сделанный здесь, проверяется и подшивается вручную, для того, чтобы

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84: Changing Direction

Новые Координаты

Многие считают, что залог успеха модной индустрии заложен в одной фразе – «sex sells» («секс продает»). Откровенные декольте, силуэты песочных часов, юбки с разрезом до бедра и «бельевой» стиль – все это было излюбленной тематикой миланских дизайнеров на протяжении многих десятилетий: знойные женщины в ночном белье у Gucci, властные богини у Versace, амазонки Roberto Cavalli и сицилийские соблазнительницы в черных корсетах у Dolce & Gabbana прочно вошли в архивы мировой моды. Тем не менее, в этом сезоне модные дома решили переосмыслить свой подход и заявили о том, что настало время меняться. Так возник многогранный и более сложный образ женщины, чья индивидуальность и мелкие недостатки превалируют над глянцевой безупречностью. Наиболее радикальную перемену можно заметить у Gucci. Бывший креативный директор бренда Фрида Джаннини активно продвигала сексуализацию рекламных кампаний. Новый дизайнер бренда Алессандро Мишель кардинально изменил этот подход, представив публике образ неуклюжей девушки в очках на толстой оправе и наспех уложенными волосами. Едва заметные силуэты плавно обвивают тело, но не обтягивают его. Шифоновые платья с оборками и цветочным принтом, шубы, шелковые блузки с большим бантом на вороте и мальчишеские штаны, надетые как попало, с помятыми куртками, – все это дает понять, что у Мишель появилась новая стратегия. В этом сезоне избранный аксессуар Gucci – брезентовая сумка с фирменным логотипом бренда в виде удила, которая лишь недавно перестала считаться ретро globalblue.com

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Ведущие дома моды Милана представили в этом сезоне новый образ женщины, в котором главное место отводится индивидуальному стилю. Харриет Куик рассказывает о новом подходе

и стала ультрамодной. Новое направление модного дома было запечатлено в рекламной кампании весна-лето 2015. Фотограф Глен Лачфорд сфотографировал раскованную пару на фоне обветшалого интерьера квартиры. Миланская Неделя моды была наполнена атмосферой недосказанности и незавершенности, а вместо четких заявлений звучали в основном лишь

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предлагая взамен насладиться собственным индивидуальным стилем. Начать можно с поиска значимых вещей – длинной юбки, волнистой шифоновой блузки или пальто без рукавов, – и объединить это в один гармоничный образ. Таким образом, на поверхности окажется чувственность, которая предполагает, что женский мир намного глубже, чем выглядывающие наружу голые части тела. gucci.com, prada.com, marni.com, albertaferretti.com, maxmara.com

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140: When You Shop Te World, Shop Tax Free Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free

расплывчатые намеки. Миучча Прада пригласила нас в хроматическое турне, где доминируют бледно-вишневые и яркозеленые шелковые блузки и шерстяные костюмы, наряду с вечерними платьями с меховыми вставками на плечах и длинными перчатками. Свободный крой нарядов не стеснял дыхания моделей. Главный дизайнер дома Marni Консуэло Кастильони описала свой новый тренд, как «иная женственность», представив пальто без рукавов, юбки с меховыми карманами и расплывчатыми цветочными принтами на мягких шерстяных пальто свободного покроя. У Alberta Ferretti источником вдохновения послужила эпоха итальянского Возрождения: вышитый бархат, жаккард в стиле пэчворк и изящные блузки с высоким воротником. И даже наиболее консервативные бренды решили изменить своим традициям в этом сезоне. Ведущую модель Max Mara Гиги Хадид нарядили в пальто свободного покроя и большой вязаный свитер поверх юбки-карандаш. Подиумы Милана демонстрируют массовый отход от перфекционизма, globalblue.com

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

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66: Houses Of Fun 意趣横生 从鲜亮迷人的人造毛皮外套到卡通印花帽子，本季 意大利各大时装品牌纷纷在自家系列中添加了一剂 幽默元素，Sally McIlhone为您报道 在华伦天奴（Valentino）2015/16年秋冬季秀场上， 演员本·斯蒂勒（Ben Stiller）和欧文·威尔逊 （Owen Wilson）变身超级男模，以德里克·祖兰德 （Derek Zoolander）和汉斯（Hansel）的形象“大 闹”时装周，引起一片热议。近些年来，没有哪个时尚 瞬间能够与此相比。 斯蒂勒身穿深蓝色缎面印花套装，而威尔逊则是 一身淡蓝色睡衣风两件套；除此之外，两人都颇为随 意地在肩上披了一件外套。虽说这一安排本是为了 宣传将在2016年上映的影片《超级名模》 （Zoolander）续集，这对拍档还是很好地总结了本 季时装的大主题：趣味。 各家意大利奢侈品牌在服装样式上都趋于正式， 但在眼下，设计师们都在竭力避免满是深色系衣物和 刻板配饰的冬季衣橱，且似乎都找到了他们的幽默 感。Valentino的创意总监Maria Grazia Chiuri在接 受Dazed & Confused杂志的一次采访时定下了本 季的基调：“时装可以非常严肃，但也可以非常有趣！” Moschino就是永远都不正经的品牌之一。从芭 比娃娃——最初的那个偏爱粉色系的性感金发女 郎——到如今已成为品牌Toy系列香水外形的长毛 绒泰迪熊，该品牌此前的许多系列都曾从俏皮可爱 的文化偶像身上汲取灵感。本季终于轮到了《兔八 哥》（Looney Tunes）中的卡通形象走上中央舞 台，我们将在无袖连衣裙、超大号棒球衫和90年代 风格的俏皮衣裤上看到达菲鸭（Dafy Duck）、兔 八哥（Bugs Bunny）和其他小伙伴们的身影。 品牌创始人Franco Moschino因波比（Popeye） 和奥丽弗（Olive Oyl） （两人为动画片《大力水手》 中的角色）两款香水而著称，而品牌现任创意总监 Jeremy Scott则延续着使用卡通人物的这一传统。“ 我觉得延续这一极具Moschino传统的元素是件非 常有趣的事情，而这个元素就是卡通，”他对Marie Claire英国版杂志说道。“我曾尝试把一些其他的角 色引到Moschino的世界中来。这个季度，我选择了 《兔八哥》，因为片中的每一个角色都有着截然不同 的个性，所有人都能辨认出片中角色来，这一点让我 非常喜欢。”快挑一根兔八哥皮带、一顶崔弟 （Tweety Pie）棒球帽或一条集结了全体伙伴的皮 带，用喜剧元素和多样色彩让沉闷的冬季衣橱轻快 起来！ globalblue.com

范思哲（Versace）本季的俏皮元素则没有那么明 显，该品牌选择了色块拼接元素的衣衫和异乎寻常 的配饰。本季既有番茄红和柠檬黄配色的小山羊皮 过膝厚底坡跟靴，也有极客风超大号猫眼方框太阳 镜。然而，范思哲本季最为风骚的新品也大玩卡通 风格：一款长及膝盖的翡翠绿色翻领人造毛皮外 套。我们称这种风格为： 《芝麻街》（Sesame Street，著名欧美卡通剧）和高级时装的约会。 Dolce & Gabbana同样在秋冬季系列中融合了人 造毛皮和面料，将其运用到超大号常春藤色手提袋 上，效果不俗。在米兰时装周上，该品牌也展示了一 系列风格轻快的H型连衣裙，裙身上绣着房子、花 朵、树木和猫等童真图案，看上去这些裙子原是空白 的画布，是孩子们在上面画下了稚气的笔墨。该品牌 两位设计师是典型的完美主义者，而这些休闲风作 品甜美而天真，毫不遮掩瑕疵，倒是一种别开生面的 趣味。 由设计师Massimo Giorgetti创立的米兰品牌 MSGM继续着本季的人造毛皮风尚，为顾客带来了 鲜艳明亮的配色和各种各样的材质选择。蓬松的拼 接夹克上饰有色彩绚烂、长度不一的人造皮毛，粉红 色夹杂在黑白色块中，是本季的一大亮 点。Giorgetti还带来了饰有超大多彩树叶的无袖连 衣裙、上衣、迷你裙以及饰有织锦的超短连衣裙，拼 贴风格让人想起儿童的涂鸦，色调则以粉红色、青 绿色、黑色和白色为主。 鲁比克魔方（Rubik ’s Cube）是另一个被应用到

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时尚设计的童真代表。时尚品牌 Au Jour Le Jour从 魔方中获取灵感，设计出一款60年代风格的连衣迷 你裙及同款外套。魔方风格的连衣裙用其生动印花 图案和鲜艳诱人的色调驱走了冬季的阴郁。品牌 2015/16秋冬季系列中其他引人注目的单品还包括 唱片形状的手提袋，以及饰有跳舞人群波普色块的 外套、套头衫和半裙。 搭配一件首饰是拥抱这一潮流的简易方 法。Marni的唱片状有机玻璃耳坠虽只有柔和的白 色、奶油色和巧克力棕色可选，无疑也会令人眼前一 亮。 最重要的是，本季的各大系列证明了一点：尽管冬 天的天气可能沉闷阴郁，但你的衣橱并不一定要因 而变得刻板。意大利的各大时装品牌也都证明了一 点：度过严冬，迎接春天的最佳方式莫过于穿上幽 默、俏皮的外套，搭上引人注目的配饰——即使在最 阴沉的日子里，你也一定能绽放微笑。 网址： valentino.com, moschino.com, versace.com, dolcegabbana.com, msgm.it, aujourlejour.it, marni.com

74: Family Values 家族荣耀 杰尼亚（Ermenegildo Zegna）始终心系时尚与慈 善事业，Anna Zegna如是说。Verity Hogan报道 “Zegna一直有这种责任感，”Ermenegildo Zegna 的孙女、Zegna基金会总裁Anna Zegna指出。自品 牌1910年成立起，慈善就是其不可分割的一部分， 公司从此以致力提供高品质时装与关注慈善而著 称。两者齐头并进，Anna Zegna表示，“就像是编织 面料般，一切都十分流畅顺滑。” 这一融汇交织在品牌秀场上可见一斑。品牌首席 设计师Stefano Pilati带来的2015秋冬系列，从公司 位于Trivero美丽小镇的羊毛工厂所面临的生态环 保问题中获取灵感，这也是品牌基金会所关注的议 题。模特们从茂密的热带森林中步出，走过泥土覆 盖的T型台，身穿因纯正血统与可回收性而被选中 的复古哈里斯花呢。这场秀完美捕捉了基金会的宗 旨：在展示公司经典魅力的同时，改善人们与社群的 生活质量。 Anna Zegna自幼年起就对公司的慈善事业充满 兴趣。“这是我家乡的一部分，”她解释道。“我们何其 幸运能出生在郁郁葱葱的Trivero小镇。我们住在 拥有花园的房子里，但某种程度上，整座山都是我 们的花园，因为我的祖父在1930年代重新在山上造 林，所以我们真正参与到他的雄心壮志中，并以一种 极其自然的方式身处其中——就像生活在森林里。” 靠近瑞士边境、地处高山的Trivero小村庄，无疑 globalblue.com

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有着鼓舞人心的自然环境。Trivero是Zegna家族工 厂所在地，周围环绕着建于1993年公众可自由出入 的Oasi Zegna自然公园。据Anna Zegna表示，该 公园的设计意图在于为人们提供“从生活中而非课本 中体验并向自然学习的经验。”引人注目的景观包括 杜鹃谷，五颜六色的花朵会在五、六月绽放，还有能 欣赏到壮丽山色的全景景观通道。 环保项目只是Zegna基金会广泛涉猎领域中的一 部分。该公司在每个目标市场都参与到满足不同需 求的项目中，包括意大利、中国、印度和非洲。“在某 些社区我们做的非常基础，譬如在非洲乞力马扎罗 山附近挖井，”Anna Zegna解释。“在其他地方，可 能是强调环保意识，提供职业技能培训。基金会刚 起步时我们关注的点相对单一，或是教育或是就业， 或是健康事业或是食物供给。今天我们开展的每一 个项目，影响力都会覆盖以上所有方面。” Zegna的家族愿景已被证明是其最大优势之一。“ 我认为这带给我们更长远的目光，”Anna Zegna十 分肯定。“这是家族特性的传承，你看着你的孩子， 想到孩子们的孩子，这是有延续性的。” 上述举动的成果就是，品牌的量身定制西装、羊 绒针织与大衣都有着超越时间的经典特质，基金会 同样采用长期投资的策略，只参与至少持续三年以 上的项目。公司时常超越既定目标；Zegna在印度与 Care & Share儿童慈善组织已经合作了9年，在中国 与世界自然基金会的合作已走过10个年头。“观察项 目多年来的进展是非常有趣的，”Anna Zegna指

出。“这就是为什么不能只参与一年，持续投资非常 重要。” Zegna竭尽所能与当地组织合作以达到最大影 响。“如果我们没有去过那里，没有与当地的人民交 谈过，就不会启动项目，”Anna Zegna表示。“我们 的价值观应该努力贴近当地人民的价值观，这样即 使语言不同、肤色不同、所处的半球不同，我们仍有 着共同的目标。”对于做正确事的承诺同样体现在 Trivero的羊毛工厂。每块生产出的面料都经过检 验，并且由手工完成最后工序，以确保最高水准的出 品。 基金会的最新项目位于意大利，旨在重新改造 Rimini附近San Patrignano社区的纺织作坊。“这 里仍然使用手工织布机，我们正在努力将他们的经 验与我们所派去专家的经验结合，并教授他们如何 参与到时尚项目中。”Anna Zegna解释道。“反响非 常惊人，工作室聘用的女孩数量增加了一倍，并且真 正开始盈利。这实在是太棒了，当你帮助拓宽人们的 视野并愿意投入时间，他们真的会学习吸纳并给与 你10倍以上的回报。” 凭借改善世界各地人们与社区生活水准的承 诺，Ermenegildo Zegna从其他时尚品牌中脱颖而 出。公司的这一理念对其经营羊毛工厂，并最终制作 出服装成品，有着重大的影响——这也意味着之后 漫长的岁月中，Zegna仍将是超越时间之经典品质 的代名词。 zegna.com

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84: Changing Direction 潮流变向

人们常说，性感在潮流界永远大行其道。深挖领口、 沙漏廓形、包大腿紧身裙与灵感来自内衣的造型，几 十年来深受米兰设计师们的喜爱：无论是Gucci打 造的头发凌乱的低调性感女性形象，还是Versace 塑造的气势逼人的女神，Roberto Cavalli的亚马逊 女战士与Dolce & Gabbana西西里式黑色蕾丝胸衣 的诱惑，都是时尚档案中的著名案例。 然而，本季各大品牌开始反思，并宣布变革之日 已经来临。一种更为复杂与多面的女性形象浮出水 面，个性化与奇特风格超越了完美无暇，得到歌颂。 转变最具标志性与最戏剧化的当属Gucci。在品 牌从前的创意总监Frida Giannini领导下，性感的 女性形象被大力推崇。而品牌的新创意总监 Alessandro Michele则将其转变为发型随意、佩戴 沉重黑框眼镜的笨拙女孩形象。轻柔的悬垂廓形在 身体上袅娜摇动，而非紧紧将穿着者包裹。荷叶边花 卉雪纺连衣裙、皮草大衣、丝绸蝴蝶结衬衣与男性化 裤装，被以偶然随意的方式搭配，夹克与衣服褶边的 缝线清晰可见，透露出Michele对于诉说故事的迷 恋。 Gucci还为本季带来丰富的配件系列，包括马衔 铁标识帆布包袋，这是一款从复古骤然转变为酷感 的单品。从品牌2015年春夏的宣传攻势中同样可见 潮流新方向；这则由Glen Luchford拍摄的广告，讲 述了一对悠闲夫妇在一间破旧公寓中发生的故事。 那种写意留白和意犹未尽的感觉，细微情愫而非 高调宣言，润物细无声地影响着米兰时装 周。Miuccia Prada带领我们进入一场色彩斑斓的 漂泊之旅，带来最淡素的樱花粉与翠绿色相间的丝 质正装与休闲西服，以及肩部带有条状皮毛装饰、搭 配皮质长手套的鸡尾酒裙。剪裁时留出了充分的余 量，让穿着者与欣赏者都有呼吸的空间。 在Marni，Consuelo Castiglioni将自己对潮流 的解读定义为“女性气质的另类诠释”，奉上无袖外 衣、皮草饰袋裙装与印有模糊花卉的松软羊毛超大 外套。在Alberta Ferretti，团队从意大利文艺复兴 时期中获取了丰富的灵感，带来绣花丝绒、错落提花 与工艺繁复的高领衬衣。最保守的品牌也在本季毅 然改变方向。Max Mara将领衔模特Gigi Hadid包 裹在夸张尺寸版本的经典驼色大衣中，还带来松垮 垂悬在修身半裙上的超大毛衣。 米兰秀场显示设计师们摆脱了对于完美的执着， 取而代之的是对松弛下来彰显自我风格的认可。从 globalblue.com

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米兰各大时装品牌在本季纷纷塑造不同以往的女性 形象，让个体风格得以闪耀。Harriet Quick为您快 速解读这一新手法

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日本語翻訳

66: Houses Of Fun 遊び心で着る 色鮮やかなフェイクファーのコートから漫画プリント の帽子まで、イタリアの一流ファッションレーベルは 今シーズンのコレクションにユーモアを盛り込んでい る。サリー・マキルホーンがレポートする。

寻找有意义的单品开始——无论是新长度的裙装， 垂悬雪纺衬衣或是一件无袖外套——然后在此基 础上组合出自己的造型。由此自然流露出的，是一份 向世界展示女性并非只是身体各部分组合的感性。

gucci.com, prada.com, marni.com, albertaferretti.com, maxmara.com 140: When you shop the world, shop tax free 畅购全球，尊享退税

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最近ファッション界を沸かせた出来事と言えばやは り、ヴァレンティノの2015・16年秋冬コレクションの ショーに俳優のベン・スティラーとオーウェン・ウィル ソンがそれぞれ役どころの男性モデル、デレク・ズー ランダーとハンセルに扮して登場したことだろう。 スティラーはミッドナイトブルーのプリント柄サテ ンスーツ、ウィルソンは淡いブルーのプリント柄のパ ジャマスタイルツーピースをまとい、ともにルックスの 仕上げとして肩にオーバーコートをさりげなく引っ掛 けていた。意表を突いたこの仕掛けは2016年公開の 「ズーランダー」続編の宣伝絡みだったが、この二人 は今シーズンのコレクションに共通するテーマ「遊び 心」を体現している。 イタリアの高級レーベルは普段は重厚な趣きを 好む傾向にあるが、今シーズンは各社デザイナーが ダークな色彩と保守的なアクセサリーの多い冬のワ ードローブを避けて、ユーモアのセンスを発揮してい る。ヴァレンティノのクリエイティブディレクター、 マリ ア・グラツィア・キウリは、 『デイズド・アンド・コンフ ューズド』誌の取材で「ファッションはとてもシリアス にもなり得るし、楽しいものにもなり得る」と語り、こ のトレンドの基調を打ち出した。 こうした遊び心を常に身上としてきたのがモスキ ーノだ。このレーベルはこれまでにも数々のコレクシ ョンで、ピンク大好き元祖セクシーブロンド娘のバー ビーから、今や同レーベルの「トイ」フレグランスの 瓶になったテディベアのぬいぐるみまで、お茶目な文 化的象徴を取り入れている。今シーズンの主役はル ーニー・テューンズで、ダフィ・ダック、バッグズ・バニ ーとその仲間が、ジャンパードレスやたっぷりしたベ ースボールシャツ、1990年代風のスポーティなセパ レーツなどを派手に飾っている。 同レーベルの創業者フランコ・モスキーノはポパ イやオリーブ・オイルをモチーフとしたことで有名だ が、現クリエイティブディレクターのジェレミー・スコ ットも漫画キャラクターの使用という伝統を継承して いる。彼は英国版『マリ・クレール』誌で、 「漫画とい ういかにもモスキーノらしい要素をそっくり引き継ぐ のは面白そうだと思ったんだ。他のキャラクターをい くつかモスキーノの表現に取り入れようとしてきたん

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ダルなど、このルックスを完成するのにお誂え向きの アイテムが揃っている。さりげなさを好む向きには、 マルニのアクリル樹脂製ディスク型イヤリングはいか がだろう。白、クリーム、チョコレートブラウンと控え めなトーンながら、インパクトは十分だ。 ともかく今シーズンのコレクションは、天気は陰鬱 でもワードローブまで暗くなる必要はないということ の証だ。イタリアの有力ファッションブランドが示す 通り、冬を乗り越えるにはユーモラスで遊び心一杯 の服と目立つアクセサリーでどんより暗い日でも笑顔 でいられるようにするのが一番だ。 valentino.com, moschino.com, versace.com, dolcegabbana.com, msgm.it, aujourlejour.it, marni.com

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だよ。今シーズンはルーニー・テューンズ。それぞれ に独特の個性があって、誰もが何らかのキャラクタ ーに共感できるところが好きだから」と語っている。 バッグズ・バニーのベルトにトゥイーティ・パイ模様 の野球帽、キャラクター勢ぞろいのチャームベルトな どコミカルで色鮮やかなアイテムで、地味な冬のワー ドローブに明るさを加えてみよう。 ヴェルサーチの戯れは今シーズンは控えめで、カ ラーブロックの服に極めつけのアクセサリーを合わせ る形をとっている。インパクトの強いトマト色やレモ ン色のスエードを使った膝上プラットフォームブーツ や、オタク風の四角縁に猫目のカーブをブレンドした ような大ぶりサングラスなどだ。それでも、今シーズ ンのヴェルサーチで最も目を引いたのは、エメラルド グリーンのフェイクファーで仕立てた襟広の膝上丈 コート。やはりどこか漫画風で、セサミストリートとク チュールの出会いといった感じだ。 ドルチェ＆ガッバーナも秋冬コレクションにフェイ クファーとテクスチャーを盛り込んでおり、アイビー 色の大型トートバッグは出色だ。同レーベルはミラ ノ・ファッションウィークで、真新しいキャンバスに子 供がお絵描きしたような子供っぽい家や花、木、猫 を刺繍した楽しいシフトドレスのシリーズも披露して いる。いつも完璧に洗練されたスタイルを発信する 二人だけに、可愛らしくて無邪気でむしろ不完全さ を楽しむような今回のデザインは、ちょっと趣向が変 わっていて楽しい。 今シーズンのフェイクファートレンドは、デザイナ ーのマッシモ・ジョルジェッティが創設したミラノベ ースのレーベルMSGMにも見られ、風合いのある 明るい色彩の作品が多数披露されている。コレクシ ョンのハイライトは、毛長と色調の異なるピンクのフ ェイクファーに黒と白を合わせたふわっとしたパッ チワークジャケットだ。さらに、様々な色の大きな葉 っぱで飾られたジャンパードレス、トップ、ミニスカー トや、子供のいたずら描きを思わせるピンク、青緑、 黒、白のつづれ織りのミニドレスも出している。 同じく子供時代の名残りのルービックキューブもフ ァッションの世界に取り入れられ、オージュールルジ ュールがこれにインスピレーションを得た1960年代 風ミニドレスとお揃いのコートを発表している。キュ ービストスタイルのドレスは、グラフィックなプリント と魅力的な色彩で冬の憂鬱を吹き飛ばそうという商 品だ。その他に同レーベルの2015・16年秋冬コレク ションで目を引いたのは、レコード型のバッグと、踊 る群衆を鮮やかなキャンデー色で描いたコート、ジ ャンパー、スカートだ。 このトレンドを簡単に取り入 れる方法がアクセサリー使いだ。嬉しいことに、 マル コ・デ・ヴィンチェンツォには、虹色の丸縁サングラス や甲部がサテンの極太ロープでできた宝石色のサン

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74: Family Values ファミリーバリュー ファッションと慈善事業への取り組みは共に、エルメ ネジルド・ゼニアの中核を成している。アンナ・ゼニ アがヴェリティ・ホーガンに語った。 「ゼニアは常にこの責任感を持ってきました」と、エ ルメネジルド・ゼニアの孫娘でゼニア財団理事長の アンナ・ゼニアはいう。慈善事業は1910年の創業以 来ゼニアブランドの一部であり、同社は高品質なフ ァッションと慈善活動の両方で知られる。アンナ・ ゼニアいわく、この二つは切っても切れない関係にあ り、 「ちょうど生地を作る時の織りのように、全てが とてもスムーズで一貫している」。 この混合はキャットウォーク上にも見られる。同ブ ランドのチーフデザイナー、ステファノ・ピラーティは 2015年秋冬コレクションのインスピレーションを、 麗しのトリヴェロにある同社のウール工場や財団の 活動に反映されているのと同じ生態系保護の理念 から得た。樹木が生い茂る熱帯雨林から姿を現した モデルたちは、伝統的なハリスツイードに身を包み、 土で覆われたキャットウォークを歩いた。ハリスツイ ードは、本物感とリサイクル可能性があることから選 んだ素材だ。このショーは、個人やコミュニティの生 活の質を改善するという財団の目的を端的に表しつ つ、同社の伝統の魅力を存分に見せるものだった。 アンナ・ゼニアは子供の頃から同社の慈善事業に 興味を持っていたという。 「自分の生い立ちが関係し globalblue.com

ているんだと思います。ラッキーなことに、私は素晴 らしい風景に囲まれたトリヴェロに生まれました。家 には庭がありましたが、私たちにとってはある意味で 山全体が庭だったんです。祖父が1930年代に植林 した山で、私たちは無意識のうちに祖父のビジョン を共有し、その中で暮らしていたんですね。まるで森 で生まれたかのように。」 スイス国境近くの山中にある村トリヴェロは、確 かにインスピレーションに溢れた環境だ。ゼニアの 工場の立地でもあり、工場周辺には自由にアクセス できる自然公園「オアジ ゼニア」 （1993年創設）が 広がる。アンナ・ゼニアによれば、公園は人々に「自 然を体験する機会、教室でではなく体験を通じて学 ぶ機会」を与えることを意図して造られたもので、5 月から6月にかけて色とりどりの花を咲かせるシャク ナゲの谷や、山の絶景が楽しめるパノラマロードな どが見どころだ。 環境関連のプロジェクトは、広範にわたるゼニア 財団の活動分野のほんの一つに過ぎない。エルメネ ジルド・ゼニアでは自社の市場のそれぞれでプロジ ェクトに取り組み、イタリアはもとより、中国、インド、 アフリカの様々なニーズに応える活動をしている。 「ある地域社会ではそれはまさに基本的なニー ズで、例えばアフリカのキリマンジェロ近辺では井 戸堀りに取り組んでいます。他の地域では、環境保 全であったり職業技能訓練だったりします。当財団 の創設当初は活動が分断されていて、教育か仕事 か、健康か食糧かといった具合だったのですが、現 在では一つのことに取り組めば全体に波及効果が

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及ぶようになっています。」 ゼニア一族のこのビジョンが同社の強みの一つに なっているのは間違いない。 「ビジョンがあるから、 より長期的な視野でものが見れるんだと思います」 というアンナ・ゼニア。 「家族の特徴ですね。子供を 見て、その子供の子供に思いを致す。それが、ある 種の継続性を生むのです。」 その結果、シャープな仕立てのスーツやカシミア ニット、オーバーコートからなる同ブランドのコレクシ ョンには時代を超えた感性が見られるし、財団も長 期的アプローチをとり、3年以上継続するプロジェク トしか取り上げない。実際には3年という目標を上回 ることも珍しくなく、インドでは子供のための慈善団 体ケア＆シェアと9年にわたって協働し、中国におけ る世界自然保護基金（WWF）とのコラボレーショ ンもこのほど10周年を迎えた。 「プロジェクトが年月 を経て進化するのを見るのが、とても興味深い」とア ンナ・ゼニアはいう。 「だからこそ、1年限りなどでは なくて継続することがとても大事なんです。」 ゼニアでは、最大のインパクトを与えられるよう に、できる限り地元の団体と協働している。 「実際に 現地を訪ねて人々と話してからでなければ、プロジェ クトは開始しません。言語や肌の色が異なろうと別 の半球に住んでいようと、目標を共有できるように、 当社の価値観は相手の価値観を反映していなけれ ばなりません。」このように物事にきちんと取り組む 姿勢は、トリヴェロのウール工場でも見られ、生産す る生地の一つ一つをチェックし、丹念に手仕上げし て、最高品質を保証している。 ゼニア財団の最新プロジェクトはイタリアをベース にしている。リミニ近郊にある薬物中毒患者の更生 施設サン・パトリニャーノに、テキスタイル工房を立ち 上げたのだ。 「ここでは今でも手織機を使っていま す。当社では彼らの持つ知識と当社の知識を合体さ せようと、当社の専門家が訪問してファッションプ ロジェクトの立ち上げ方を指導しているのです」と、 アンナ・ゼニアは説明する。 「反応は素晴らしくて、 工房で働く女子の数は倍増し、現に利益も上がって いるんですよ。こちらが時間をかけビジョンを与えれ ば、彼女たちはそれを自分たちのものにして取り組み 10倍にして返してくれます。それを目撃できたことが 嬉しいですね。」 世界中の個人やコミュニティの生活の質の改善に 取り組むエルメネジルド・ゼニアは、他のファッショ ンブランドとは一線を画す。この企業精神がウール 工場の経営に大きな影響を与え、最終的にはコレク ションを生み出しているのだ。そんなゼニアは今後も 何世代にもわたり、時代を超えた品質の代名詞であ り続けるだろう。 zegna.com

84: Changing Directions 新たな方向性 今シーズン、ミラノの主力ファッションハウスがこれま でとは違った女性像を打ち出している。個々人のスタ イルを際立たせるこの新たなアプローチを、ハリエッ ト・クイックが紹介する。 ファッション界ではセックスが売れるという。ミラノの デザイナーたちは何十年にもわたって、深く切れ込ん だネックラインや腰の括れたシルエット、腿までスリ ットの入ったスカート、ランジェリーにインスピレーシ ョンを得たルックスなどを好んできた。例えば、グッ チでは情熱を秘めた乱れ髪の女性、ヴェルサーチで は力強い女神、ロベルト・カヴァリではアマゾンの美 女、ドルチェ＆ガッバーナでは黒レースのコルセット をまとった魅惑的なシシリア女性と、いずれもファッ ション史に残る有名な女性像を描いてきたのだ。 ところが、今シーズンは各ファッションハウスが趣 向を改め、変化の時が来たことを宣言。うわべを飾っ た完璧さよりも個性と独特の味を大切にした、複雑 で多面的な女性像が浮かび上がってきている。 こうした方向転換が最も顕著で劇的なのはグッチ だ。このレーベルは前クリエイティブディレクターの フリーダ・ジャンニーニの下で女性のセクシュアリテ ィを前面に打ち出してきたが、新クリエイティブディ レクターのアレッサンドロ・ミケーレはそうしたルック スに代えて、太縁メガネをかけ髪のスタイリングもそ こそこのあか抜けない少女を登場させた。着る人の 体にぴったり沿う形ではなく、すらりとしたシルエット がゆるやかに包んで揺れ動く感じだ。フリルのつい た花柄のシフォンドレスや毛皮のコート、リボンボウ 付きのシルクブラウス、男性的なズボンを無造作に 合わせ、ジャケットや裾のシワにも無頓着な装いは どれも、ミケーレがストーリーを語ることにこだわっ ている証拠だ。 グッチは今シーズンの選り抜きアクセサリーも提 供している。ホースビットのロゴが入ったキャンバス 地のバッグで、レトロが洗練された今風スタイルにい きなり変貌した商品だ。ファッションの新たな方向 性を象徴するのが、同ブランドの2015年春夏物の広 告宣伝キャンペーンで、グレン・ルックフォードが撮 影した画像は古びたアパートでくつろぐカップルを描 写している。 こうした仕上げられていない感じ、主張ではなく 言外に匂うニュアンスは、ミラノ・ファッションウィー ク全体に漂っていた。例えばミウッチヤ・プラダで は、ごく淡い桜色と冴えたグリーンのシルクやジャー ジーのテイラードスーツ、毛皮の肩ひも付きのカクテ ルドレスと皮の長手袋など、様々な色彩で観る者を

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楽しませている。カットはゆったりしていて、着心地 も見た目も楽そうだ。 マルニではコンスエロ・カスティリオーニが自分 なりの新トレンド解釈を「一味違った女らしさ」と称 し、袖なしのコートや毛皮のポケット付きのスカー ト、ソフトウールにぼんやりとした花柄プリントのた っぷりしたコートなどを披露した。アルベルタ・フェレ ッティではイタリアンルネッサンスから大いにインス ピレーションを得て、刺繍入りベルベットやジャカー ド織のパッチワーク、凝った造りのハイネックブラウ スなどを見せた。最も保守的なブランドですら今シ ーズンは方針を転換している。マックスマーラではリ ードモデルのジジ・ハディッドが古典的なキャメルコ ートをたっぷりした仕立てに変えたものに身を包み、

続いてはスリムラインスカートの上に大ぶりのセータ ーをカジュアルに羽織って登場した。 ミラノのキャットウォークではデザイナーたちが完 璧への執着を捨て、自分なりのスタイルでくつろいで いいんだということを表現するようになっている。新 しいロングスカートでも、細かくひだを寄せたシフォ ンのブラウスでも、袖なしのコートでもいい。これと いったアイテムをまず探して、それを自分なりのルッ クスに織り込んでいこう。そうすれば、女性が単なる 身体部位の集まり以上の価値を持った存在だという ことを世間にそれとなく示す官能性が自然と滲み出 すだろう。

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140: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利 用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街 にある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得 になります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。 手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを 踏むだけです。

1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免 税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってく ださい。

お問い合わせ： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.94以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最 高15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い 戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数 料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承く ださい。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希 望の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課 されます。 globalblue.com

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2.還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にスタ ンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還 付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。

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SOUVENIR

HOMAGE TO THE ARTS Part of the Opera collection, which is inspired

by Italian Renaissance culture, these stunning chandelier earrings from Buccellati celebrate the idea of absolute symmetry, as expressed by the fower. This was a popular concept in Renaissance art and architecture and foral motifs were often seen. The earrings also take infuence from the fne jewellery house’s logo, which has similar design origins. Buccellati sees jewellery making as an art, and its designs Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 140

are often inspired by Italian high culture. This beautiful collection has been created in honour of the great Italian operas and composers, with key shapes and themes refecting the recurring design features of the great Italian opera houses. The company was founded in 1919 in Milan, and the city is still home to its master craftsmen, who remain central to Buccellati. hl Buccellati Opera earrings, â‚Ź6,000, Buccellati, Via Montenapoleone 23, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7600 2154, buccellati.com * for map go to page 120