SHOP Milan AW17

MILAN | 米兰 | МИЛАН | ミラノ

MILAN Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2017/18

DISCOVER MILAN: the streets of Italy’s fashion hub are lined with luxurious boutiques and restaurants

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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens & Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen 捷克

Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫أملانيا‬ 德国

Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Helsinki Area

Welcome to Milan

Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Oslo Paris 巴黎

Portugal Prague Rome SE Finland Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna

Чехия

Emma Cheevers /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue

@环球蓝联-Globalblue

/globalblue

GlobalBlue环球蓝联

/globalblue

@shopcontent

ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this vibrant, energetic centre of style and design. Milan has much to offer, as our guide on page 104 reveals.

Readers who appreciate the best of fashion will enjoy our feature on this season’s exciting Italian designer collaborations (page 64), and in this issue we also introduce the best perfumers in the Brera district (page 74) and profile Agresti, Italy’s top purveyor of luxurious security solutions (page 82).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Milan. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without filling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

MILANO — VIA MONTE NAPOLEONE, 6 — LA RINSCENTE PIAZZA DUOMO, 3 — SANTONISHOES.COM

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CONTRIBUTORS

Hannah Lewis Hannah Lewis, SHOP’s features editor, holds degrees from both the University of Oxford and the London College of Fashion. Hannah has written for a wide variety of international publications and loves travelling. globalblue.com

Beth Druce Beth Druce is a fashion and luxury writer and creative consultant. After gaining a master’s degree from Central Saint Martins, she worked at GQ magazine before heading to Europe to explore the world of watches and fine jewellery.

Kirsty Andrews SHOP’s picture editor Kirsty Andrews studied photography at university, where she pursued her love for all things visual. When she’s not taking photographs, she can be found working out in the gym – her other passion.

ILLUSTRATION: GIORDANO POLONI; PHOTOS: (LEFT) KATIE WILSON ELL; (RIGHT) EMILY SPICE

Giordano Poloni Giordano Poloni’s cover artwork for this season’s edition of SHOP Milan shows the ancient architecture of the Duomo di Milano amid the city’s modern skyscrapers, contrasting two faces of this bustling fashion hub.

Giordano lives and works in Milan; his Italian heritage and unique style make him the perfect choice of illustrator for this cover. His other clients include HSBC, Wired Italia and New Scientist magazine.

Discover SHOP Milan and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Giordano Poloni Contributors Patrick Clark, Beth Druce Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion assistant Rebecca Rhys-Evans

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy

News editor Ginger Rose Clark

Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Hayley Moseley Artworker Samantha Junak Artworking Assistants Shirley Lau, Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Acting online managing editor Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener Human resources and office assistant Anjali Kapoor

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistant Inga Abramian Marketing intern Joanna Dodge

G L O B A L B L U E I TA LY Country manager Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales manager Flavio Gatti Partner relationship manager Antonella Bertossi Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Marketing coordinator Alberta Reinach Sales key account manager Stefano Cardinale Sales account manager Marco Cavalli Global account managers Simone Borgheresi, Umberto Panizzut, Salvatore Smith Key account managers Benedetta Andreini, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Consuelo Murari, Marco Savino, Evrim Sengules Account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Laura Durante, Giorgia Faro, Attilio Fioritti, Gabriele Giuntini, Davide Grechi Diana Martin, Elisa Narducci, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Giordano Senzacqua, Laura Vitale Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese

Digital production assistant Linda Hau Production assistant Chris Bigg Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2017 Global Blue

GLOBAL BLUE LOUNGE

RELAX. REFRESH. REFUND. Our Global Blue Lounges are the perfect places to relax during your time in Milan and Rome. Situated in the heart of the cities’ luxury shopping districts, the lounges are a haven for Tax Free Shopping.

Find us at: First floor, Via Santo Spirito 5, Milan Piazza di Spagna 29, Rome Monday to Saturday, 10am to 7:30pm

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CONTENTS PAGE

PAGE

PRODUCTS 24

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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Milan this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of the best-dressed at Milan Fashion Week

NEWS 44

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Milan

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News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products In Store … … with Barbara Bertocci at Monnalisa on Via della Spiga

FEATURES 64

The Power Of Partnership Young designers and established names can both gain from working together. Patrick Clark introduces the season’s most exciting Italian design collaborations

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City Of Fragrance Italy’s fashion hub has also gained a reputation as Europe’s new perfume capital.

Beth Druce explores the best of Brera, Milan’s scent quarter Safe And Sound Agresti fuses style and functionality to present innovative storage solutions that radiate luxury. CEO Paolo Agresti tells Hannah Lewis about the brand’s unique concept

Above (from left): Coach’s striking new store on Via Montenapoleone; Vivetta x Swarovski autumn/winter 2017/18

PHOTO: (RIGHT) CARLO SCARPATO

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MIRANDA KERR LOS ANGELES, MARCH 2017 MARELLA.COM MILANO CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE CORSO XXII MARZO 4

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CONTENTS PAGE

EXPERIENCE

ESSENTIALS

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134 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

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Raising The Bar Milan’s top bars offer world-class cocktails and aperitivi. Kirsty Andrews seeks out the best tipples in the city Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

GUIDE 104 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Milan

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TRANSLATIONS 137 中文翻译 140 Русский Перевод 147 日本語翻訳

SOUVENIR 154 The essential item to bring home

E NGL IS H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE...

Visit globalblue.com, our recently relaunched website, for the latest luxury shopping and travel stories, updated daily Погрузитесь в мир роскошного шоппинга и увлекательных путешествий, посетив наш обновлённый сайт – globalblue.ru

FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent Above: sip a Curculizia cocktail at Pinch Spirits & Kitchen

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

访问我们近日新版上线的网站 globalblue.cn, 了解最新奢华购 物旅游信息，每日更新

Milano

corso Vittorio Emanuele

iblues.it

CH ECK OUT

CALL OF THE JUNGLE The popular animal-print trend remains strong for another season and these Alberto Guardiani ponyskin court shoes are sure to become a new wardrobe staple. The colour combination of black, brown and orange is a fresh take on leopard print, and the contrastingly sized spots give

an even more interesting look.

Alberto Guardiani’s autumn/ winter 2017/18 collection, Ski Retrò, combines a vintage feel with an unconventional yet wearable look. Ski Retrò tastefully combines various eras, mixing elements such as tactile materials and a 1970s aesthetic in a collection that epitomises contemporary versatility. Alberto Guardiani was founded in 1980 and offers classic styles with a

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 134

twist; the brand’s refined, modern designs are recognised by the Made in Italy merchandise mark, the label which denotes highquality Italian-made items. fm Alberto Guardiani heels, €490, Alberto Guardiani, Corso Venezia 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1697, albertoguardiani.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 111

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ITALIAN INTERIOR

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Make your home just as luxurious as your wardrobe with the latest offerings from these Italian labels 1

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1. Fornasetti Giardino Segreto di Fornasetti candle, €170, Fornasetti, Corso Venezia 21A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8416 1374, fornasetti.com

3. Culti diffuser, 500ml, €78, Culti, Corso Venezia 53, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8398 6600, culti.com

5. Bitossi Home by Ilaria Innocenti ring tray, €47, Funky Table, Via Santa Marta 19, 20123 Milan, +39 02 3674 8619, bitossihome.it

2. Versace Home pillows, price on request, Versace Home, Via Borgospesso 15A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 0062 0849, versacehome.it

4. Missoni Home throw, €358, Missoni Home, Viale Elvezia 22, 20154 Milan, +39 02 3310 3108, missonihome.com

6. Acqua di Parma room spray, 180ml, €61, Acqua di Parma, Via Gesù 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 3307, acquadiparma.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 134

PHOTOS: (3) ELEVEN2; (4) MISSONIHOME

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UN CERTO MONDO CAMMINA ROSSETTI. 360°

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THE POWER OF GOLD Metallics remain on trend this season – put together a stunning outfit with shimmering accessories and a feminine gown 1

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1. Ermanno Scervino dress, €8,800, Gio Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3186, ermannoscervino.it

3. Delfina Delettrez Linked Dots ring, €2,400, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, delfinadelettrez.com

2. Marina Rinaldi blazer, €630, Marina Rinaldi, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II/Piazza del Liberty 2, 20122 Milan, +39 02 782065, marinarinaldi.com

4. Aquazzura Forever Marilyn shoes, €550, Excelsior, Galleria del Corso 4, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7630 7301, aquazzura.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 134

5. Kiehl’s Calendula & Aloe Soothing Hydration Masque, 100ml, €45, Kiehl’s, Via Brera 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 875371, kiehls.com

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PHOTOS: (7) ORIS-SERVICE; (8) ©ROLEX/CLAUDE BOSSEL

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6. Floris Chypress eau de toilette, 100ml, €98, Floris, Corso di Porta Vigentina 32, 20122 Milan, +39 02 5831 4485, florislondon.com

8. Rolex Cellini watch, €21,350, Rolex, Via Montenapoleone 24, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7726, rolex.com

10. Bulgari bag, €2,100, Bulgari, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777001, bulgari.com

7. Dolce & Gabbana Miss Sicily lipstick, €41.95, Douglas, Via Tommaso Grossi 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8646 4992, dolcegabbana.com

9. Cartier bracelet, €6,500, Cartier, Via Montenapoleone 16, 20121 Milan, +39 02 303 0421, cartier.com

11. Louis Vuitton earrings, €425, Louis Vuitton, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 1711, louisvuitton.com

globalblue.com

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MASCULINE LOOK Combine shades of navy, brown and grey for a sophisticated ensemble

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1. Corneliani blazer, €1,400, Corneliani, Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7955, corneliani.com

3. Jimmy Choo Man Ice perfume, 50ml, €57, Douglas, Via Tommaso Grossi 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8646 4992, jimmychoo.com

5. Fratelli Rossetti shoes, €290, Fratelli Rossetti, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1650, fratellirossetti.com

2. Tod’s belt, €295, Tod’s, Via della Spiga 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2423, tods.com

4. Borsalino hat, €287, Borsalino, Via Sant’Andrea 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8646 3028, borsalino.com

6. Canali backpack, €940, Canali, Via Pietro Verri 1-3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 0365, canali.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 134

PHOTOS: (4) ENZOT; (5) PAOLO MARCHESI; (6) ALTO/HYPHEN

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GOOD CONNECTIONS 3

Give the newest gadgets a spin and pick your favourite to take home or for your next trip

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1. Marshall Monitor Bluetooth headphones, €249.99, Media World, Viale Carlo Troya 18, 20144 Milan, +39 02 4220 8111, marshallheadphones.com

3. Fitbit Alta fitness wristband, €139.99, Euronics, Via Andrea Solari 5, 20144 Milan, +39 02 8940 2640, fitbit.com

2. BeoPlay Beolit 17 Bluetooth speaker, €499, Bang & Olufsen, Corso Garibaldi 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 4193, beoplay.com

4. Canon PowerShot SX730 camera, €489.99, Mondadori, Piazza del Duomo 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 454411, canon.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 134

5. Apple MacBook Pro, from €1,549, Apple, Fiordaliso, Via Eugenio Curiel 25, 20089 Rozzano, +39 02 5779 7600, apple.com

PHOTOS: (1) HEARTLAND FOTO; (4) CANON.INC

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PERFECT FIT Classic black is given a lift – one of these sparkling styles will suit any occasion

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1. Giuseppe Zanotti shoes, €1,150, Giuseppe Zanotti, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0759, giuseppezanottidesign.com

3. Prada shoes, €820, Prada, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 0273, prada.com

2. AGL shoes, €325, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, agl.com

4. Car Shoe boots, €450, Car Shoe, Via della Spiga, 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 4027, carshoe.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 134

5. Miu Miu shoes, price on request, Miu Miu, Via Sant’Andrea 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 1799, miumiu.com

PHOTOS: (1) PAUL BERENDS; (2) GIANNI MAZZOTTA/INFO@GIANNIMAZZOTTA.IT

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MIL ANO Corso Vit torio Emanuele m a x a n d c o.c o m

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CLASSIC STYLE

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A blazer and tailored trousers will take you from day to night 1

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1. Escada blazer, €995, Escada, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0753, escada.com

3. Jo Malone Pear & Freesia Cologne, 100ml, €104, Jo Malone, Via Santa Maria alla Porta 13, 20123 Milan, +39 02 8050 2719, jomalone.com

2. Sportmax shoes, from €399, Max Mara, Piazza del Liberty 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8849, maxmara.com

4. Elena Ghisellini Usonia Arch bag, €1,350, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, elenaghisellini.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 134

5. Escada trousers, price on request, Escada, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0753, escada.com

PHOTO: (3) © 2004 FOUR SQUARE STUDIO INC.

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BRIGHT IDEAS Gold jewellery set with precious and semi-precious stones is a modern, elegant choice

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1. Chaumet watch, €19,990, Chaumet, The Brian & Barry Building, Via Durini 28, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7208 0537, chaumet.com

4. Messika double ring, €8,335, Great Masters of Time, Corso Magenta 11, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7208 0537, messika.com

6. Buccellati cuff, €31,500, Buccellati, Via Montenapoleone 23, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7600 2154, buccellati.com

2. Damiani Margherita earrings, €3,980, Damiani, Via Montenapoleone 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 8088, damiani.com

5. Pomellato rings, €3,700 each, Pomellato, Via Montenapoleone 17, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 4530, pomellato.com

7. Rosantica choker, €305, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, rosantica.com

3. Swarovski Crystaldust double bracelet, €89, Swarovski, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 15, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7209 4386, swarovski.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 134

MILANO C.so V. Emanuele

C.so Vercelli, 35

Galleria V. Emanuele, 69 C.so Buenos Aires, 39

C.so Genova, 20 C.so XXII Marzo, 5

(angolo Galleria S. Carlo)

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The men who frequent Milan Fashion Week recognise the importance of a fantastic coat.

From a velvet overcoat printed with cherubs to an Aztecprint jacket to more classic looks, their outerwear was out of this world Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 134

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

STREET ST YLE

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A pop of colour added to a black and white palette is a tried and tested combination.

The attendees at Milan Fashion Week kept their brights bright and their monochrome patterned in a variety of winning sartorial combinations Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 134

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

STREET ST YLE

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SHOP WINDOW

Established in 1947, familyrun Italian jewellery shop Orologeria Luigi Verga celebrates its 70th anniversary this year. Its foundation marked the beginning of a Milanese horological dynasty that embodies passion and professionalism, and the brand is now in its third generation. Orologeria Luigi

Verga offers a distinguished selection of watches from luxury brands including Rolex, Cartier and Patek Philippe. The company is renowned for its excellent after-sales customer care and its in-house atelier boasts superb service, topclass equipment and highly qualified technicians.

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 134

Visit the original store on Via Mazzini or head to the brand’s fourth retail space (seen here), which opened at the end of 2015. js Orologeria Luigi Verga, Via Vincenzo Capelli 6, 20124 Milan, +39 02 659 5775, luigiverga.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 124

PHOTO: GIOVANNI MALGARINI/MALGARINI.EU

A MOMENT IN TIME

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BEST OF BROWNE

apparel. For autumn/winter 2017/18, Browne focuses largely on grey, challenging any preconceptions that it is a boring tone by using it in exuberantly creative ways. hl

TOP TOURS Enhance your trip to Milan with city tour specialist Zani Viaggi, which offers coach trips that take in the best of the city’s culture, art and fashion, as well as shopping tours to some of Italy’s finest outlets. Services run from the city centre to shopping villages which showcase designer brands at discount prices. Destinations include Serravalle Designer Outlet, the largest Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 134

Thom Browne, Via Gesù 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 1269, thombrowne.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 114

outlet in Europe; Fidenza Village; Franciacorta Outlet Village; Scalo Milano; and Vicolungo The Style Outlets. Zani Viaggi can also take you across the border into Switzerland, to the FoxTown stores. Wherever you decide to go, Zani Viaggi will ensure you travel in style. sm Zani Viaggi, Milan Visitor Center, Largo Cairoli 18 (city centre) and Milano Centrale station, Ground Level, 20100 Milan, +39 02 867131, zaniviaggi.com FOR M A PS GO TO PAGES 106 A N D 122

PHOTOS: (TOP) HENRIK BLOMQVIST; (BOTTOM) ANDREA OFFREDI

Award-winning American fashion designer Thom Browne recently opened his first standalone store in Europe on Milan’s picturesque Via Gesù. Browne began his fashion career with a small appointment-only shop in 2001 and his innovative tailoring soon attracted the attention of the fashion industry. His first ready-towear collection was launched in 2003 and he introduced a women’s line in 2011. His eponymous label is famous for embracing the unexpected and avant-garde, as well as questioning the boundary between men’s and women’s

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MAGICAL MIYAKE Fans of revolutionary Japanese designer Issey Miyake should be sure to visit the newly opened store on Via Bagutta – the first Italian standalone from the eponymous brand. The spacious boutique offers all of the brand’s different lines, including Issey Miyake, Issey Miyake Men, Pleats Please, Homme Plissé, Bao Bao and 132 5 Issey Miyake. One of the most

original and creative brands in the world, Issey Miyake is renowned for its technology-driven clothing and ability to blur the lines between art and fashion. The new boutique is located in the 19th-century Palazzo Reina, a beautiful historic building that provides a striking contrast to Miyake’s modern aesthetic. hl Issey Miyake, Via Bagutta 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 781040, isseymiyake.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 114

CoTe’s autumn/winter 2017/18 collection is inspired by travel and world cultures.

The brand’s signature asymmetric and experimental cuts are fundamental parts of the range, which features feather-embellished dresses and asymmetric tops and shirts with a contemporary take on ruffled sleeves. As well as androgynous denim and tailoring, the brand also showcases a feminine aesthetic, offering dresses worn with heeled boots and botanicalinspired prints matched with transparent glittery fabrics. rre No 30 Milano, Via Della Spiga 30, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7377, co-te.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 117

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 134

PHOTO: (TOP) OLIVIER BACO

CONTEMPORARY EDGE

© Samsonite 2017

#VeryPersonalAccessories

Samsonite Stores via San Pietro all’Orto 11 via Belfiore 6 MILANO

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NEW BEGINNINGS Alessandro Sartori has launched his debut collection as artistic director for Ermenegildo Zegna. The collection reinvents the traditions of Italian tailoring for the modern, urban man seeking comfort and luxury in today’s fastpaced, technology-driven landscape. Sartori embraces a contemporary sportswear style that breaks with traditional formality. The collection includes ultralight cashmere that enables suits to become outerwear; clothing with reversible and drawstring functionality; and a special wax tanning process that gives calf leather a waterproof feel and weightless quality. Active sneakers, hard-wearing brogues with silicone-dipped soles, backpacks and briefcases complete the offering, which is built around an organic colour palette featuring notes of camel, rust, pond and peacock green.

This collection marks a strong start for Alessandro Sartori. rre Ermenegildo Zegna, Via Montenapoleone 27E, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6437, zegna.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 116

Sportswear specialist K-Way and luxury Italo-Canadian brand Dsquared2 have collaborated for autumn/winter 2017/18.

Designed by Dean and Dan Caten, the duo behind Dsquared2, this capsule sportswear collection combines the functionality of K-Way with the glamour of Dsquared2.

Windbreakers, anoraks and down bomber jackets are reversible and feature deliberately oversized details such as zips, logos and fittings. A vibrant colour scheme of orange, red, yellow and black is finished with checks, floral prints and embroidered patches. rre Dsquared2, Via Pietro Verri 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8969 1699, dsquared2.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 114

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 134

PHOTOS: (LEFT) IVAN LATTUADA; (RIGHT) MONICA FEUDI

FASHION MEETS FUNCTION

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THE PERSONAL TOUCH Coach, which celebrated its 75th anniversary in 2016, has a new store on prestigious Via Montenapoleone. The store design cleverly balances past and present; pink granite, exposed terracotta and concrete are contrasted with shearling seats and wool rugs. Visitors can discover the women’s ready-towear collections as well as accessories and bags for both men and women. With a focus on heritage and expertise, the new store boasts a unique in-house craftsmanship bar, which invites customers to add

a personalised monogram to their leather purchases. Why not add your initials to one of this season’s leather tote bags, which come in a range of sophisticated hues? km

Coach, Via Montenapoleone 19, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3522, coach.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 116

Autumnal warmth is the theme for Fendi’s colour palette this season, with petrol blue tones, vibrant red, camel and pale pink radiating effortless sophistication.

Geometric patterns feature on long coats and dresses, inspired

by Viennese woodblock prints.

Cut-out knitwear, appliqué and embroidered Spirograph-style daisies are just some of the technical details that feature in this stunning collection. Other highlights include striking cuissard boots in patent red and this season’s newcomer, the Runaway double-handle box bag. km Fendi, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1617, fendi.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 116

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 134

PHOTOS: (BOTTOM) ALDOCASTOLDI

VIVID PICTURE

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MODERN ANARCHY Creative director Andreas Kronthaler pays homage to his home country of Austria in his autumn/winter 2017/18 collection for his wife and co-designer Vivienne Westwood’s eponymous brand. Kronthaler has taken inspiration from Viennese modernism, artist Gustav Klimt and traditional children’s costumes to create his latest range, while still retaining iconic Vivienne Westwood trademarks and a sense of anarchy, through check prints and mismatched patterns as well as the brand’s quintessential asymmetric shapes. Luxury floral velvet robes are worn with mustard suede boots, tailoring is oversized and menswear and womenswear flow seamlessly into one another.

Be sure to look out for Vivienne Westwood’s other collections, including the Africa Bags range. Created in collaboration with the Ethical Fashion Initiative, the stunning collection returns for another season and supports the work of skilled women from marginalised African communities. rre Vivienne Westwood, Corso Venezia 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7608 0222, viviennewestwood.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 111

IN BLOOM Aedes de Venustas’s eighth fragrance, released in May 2017, explores the complexities of Pelargonium graveolens, also known as the rose geranium flower. Pelargonium (€215) is the brand’s first collaboration with perfumer Nathalie Feisthauer and features an intricate bouquet of cedar wood, vetiver, green cardamom, carrot, clary sage and elemi resin.

The notes combine to bring out the balsamic, rosy aroma of the plant and this intriguing and elegant fragrance is a delightful continuation of the contemporary vision of Aedes de Venustas’s founders, Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner. grc 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, aedes.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 124

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IN BRIEF In June Acne Studios opened its first store in Milan, on Piazza del Carmine in the Brera district. The store has its own unique atmosphere while retaining Acne Studios’ distinctive identity, making this the perfect place to shop the Swedish brand’s women’s and men’s collections FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 126

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SARTORIAL FLAIR Combining tradition and innovation, Pal Zileri knows exactly how to design for the modern man. This season’s collection is a case in point, with strong standalone pieces such as single and double-breasted suits worn with turtlenecks or cotton shirts. The range also encompasses sportswear-inspired blouson jackets and parkas reimagined as sophisticated outerwear. For special occasions, Pal Zileri presents exquisite formalwear in the form of elegant smoking jackets. Alongside a palette of grey, black and white, the collection also features hues such as burnt orange, mustard yellow and various shades of blue. grc Pal Zileri, Via Alessandro Manzoni 20, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 4680, palzileri.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 120

Luxury leather goods brand Il Bisonte opened a new store in Milan over the summer.

Founded by Wanny Di Filippo in 1970 in a workshop in Florence, the label has grown into an international name which continues to promote Italian craftsmanship. The brand’s skilled artisans create beautiful leather products and this season’s offerings are as Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 134

desirable as ever. Backpacks, totes, shoulder bags and small leather goods made of top-quality vacchetta cowhide in neutral shades are finished with Il Bisonte’s famous buffalo motif. grc Il Bisonte, Via Santo Spirito 14, 20121 Milan, ilbisonte.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 114

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MADE IN ITALY

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STEPPING OUT Footwear brand Baldinini’s autumn/winter 2017/18 collection takes inspiration from retro styles and reinvents them for a contemporary audience.

Standout pieces this season include heeled boots with a fur trim, knee-highs with square heels and thick-soled slip-ons.

Leopard print, quilted leather embellishment, suede and metallic inserts are among the details that further enhance the women’s collection, alongside a colour palette of cherry red,

purple, green, orange, black and grey. Freshen up your wardrobe for the colder months with boots and bags adorned with colourful pompoms or these patent shoes with velvet bows (€370). grc

Baldinini, Via Montenapoleone 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 2002, baldinini-shop.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 116

Designer Marcelo Burlon’s County of Milan line has joined forces with renowned Turin-based sportswear brand Kappa for a capsule collection that showcases Burlon’s philosophy of merging different worlds. Sporty pieces are created in classic shades of military green, red and black, and logo tape runs down the sides of T-shirts, sweatshirts and polyester tracksuits, echoing Kappa’s signature look. Pieces are finished with an embroidered logo motif and this casual, urban collection is the perfect union of two Italian brands. rre Excelsior, Galleria del Corso 4, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7630 7301, marceloburlon.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 109

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PHOTO: (BOTTOM) PAOLO ZERBINI

GOOD SPORT

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IN STORE: MONNALISA

‘My husband Piero [Iacomoni] founded Monnalisa in 1968.

The company has been an ambitious project from the very beginning, starting with its name, which was inspired by da Vinci’s masterpiece.

‘My debut as the creative director made the product the main focus for us. The dresses I started to design have a soul, and were immediately received with warmth and interest by the market.

‘I am very grateful to all the little girls that I have dressed and all the mothers who continue to choose our clothing.

‘Our stores have a very romantic calling. They greet the clientele with soft music, soft, scrolled furniture, resin

floors, chandeliers. This is the perfect ambience for our collections. Our little guests feel at home here, in their dream room.

‘Our first store on Milan’s Via della Spiga opened in 2006, with a relocation to the present boutique at number 52 in 2009.

‘We are a well-structured company. The look and feel

are deployed in all our stores in the world. We have recently installed a stunning floor, with roses, my favourite flowers, crystallised in the resin.

‘All the store sites are selected according to specific criteria; they have to be in the most important shopping streets. We prefer historic buildings which have structures

‘Our little guests feel at home in our stores’ of our stores – flooring, colours and furnishings – is very important and I personally maintain an active role of supervising the aesthetic choices. Once approved, these

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and ceilings with a certain character and history – Via della Spiga is one of the most elegant streets in the world, it is so important to be present here.

‘In this flagship store,

PHOTOS: (LEFT) CORRADO CALVO; (RIGHT) ANDREA BARTOLOZZI 2013

Italian childrenswear brand Monnalisa is known for its innovative ideas and original styling and designs. It offers unique collections for girls and boys up to the age of 16; alongside the Monnalisa label for children aged between two and 12 are Monnalisa Bebé, Chic Monnalisa, Monnalisa Couture, Monnalisa Fun, Jakioo and Hitch-hiker. The stores are designed with both children and parents in mind, and this is especially evident in the Milan flagship. Barbara Bertocci, Monnalisa’s designer and creative director, tells Ximena Daneri more

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clients can use an iPad to consult the catalogue and verify the stock in store. The spaces allow us to include a selection of furniture from our Living collection [antique-style furniture by Savio Firmino].

‘The special structure of this boutique, with a small, intimate parlour, works really well for the Bebé collection, dedicated to younger girls from three months to 36 months.

‘Over the years, we have grown, both in our range of products, and in our presence in retail stores. We launched a handbag line, which is my passion: the Petite B – B for bags, but also my initial.

‘We have also launched Monnalisa Forever, a delicate capsule collection of similar dresses for mothers and daughters, dedicated to mothers who wish to be in tune with their daughters.

‘This season, I am particularly proud of our Couture line. The dresses of the Couture line have a timeless charm: a few pieces, produced with wisdom and craftsmanship for special occasions, to be kept and passed down. For our brand’s future, the key words are retail expansion and multichannelling. In terms of shopping in Milan, you shouldn’t miss an appointment at Antonia, which has an excellent brand mix and many limited editions.’

Monnalisa, Via della Spiga 52, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7634 1243, monnalisa.eu FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 117

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PHOTO: MARTINA FERRARA

Young designers and established names can both gain from working together. Patrick Clark introduces the most exciting Italian design collaborations of the season

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Left: MSGM x Diadora autumn/winter 2017/18

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Above (all): three looks from the Au Jour Le Jour for Colmar capsule collection, all autumn/winter 2017/18

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) PAOLO SANTAMBROGIO

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ilan’s prominent position on the international fashion calendar can be credited to its array of seminal fashion houses. As members of a younger generation of designers bring their talents to the table, the task of establishing themselves globally alongside previous generations arises. One way of cementing the relations between young and old, globally renowned and up-and-coming, is with design collaborations. For autumn/ winter 2017/18, some of the city’s most exciting designers have formed creative partnerships, while elsewhere established brands provide significant support to young talent, resulting in exciting collections all round.

For Giulio Colombo, CEO of Italian outerwear brand Colmar, collaborations with young designers push the boundaries of the heritage house’s design. This season’s partnership with Au Jour Le Jour, part of the Vogue Talents project, digs into the Colmar archives, while introducing the innovation of its younger collaborators; designers Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez, who founded Au Jour Le Jour in 2010, have brought their signature colour and fabric treatment to the Colmar capsule collection. Colombo says that collaborations of this kind ‘can best represent and tell the story of the two identities of the brand, the one made up of technology and

maximum know-how in sportswear and the other distinguished by an innovative spirit that can bring a gust of fresh irony into reinterpreting volumes or colours.’

Au Jour Le Jour is known for playing with witty microprints, and for this capsule collection the designers ‘reworked the patches dear to Colmar, or included maxi and micro lettering which nods at the modern mania for logos,’ says Colombo. He explains that the Colmar archives served as a starting point for the young designers, who drew, for example, on jackets worn by previous Italian ski teams.

‘When AJLJ saw our archives, the idea of how to merge Colmar heritage and practicality and their style was clear. Diego and Mirko slipped Above (both): MSGM x Diadora autumn/winter 2017/18

perfectly into the history of Colmar.’

Successful Milan designer Massimo Giorgetti decided to incorporate Diadora into his menswear catwalk show for MSGM, bringing Diadora branded trainers, tracksuit bottoms, shorts, sweatshirts and T-shirts to his collection – all with a touch of the 1990s athleisure aesthetic. After all, athletic apparel has long since lost its purely functional purposes. Diadora was founded in 1948 as an artisanal hiking boot company; delving into its rich archives, the collaboration rekindles ready-to-wear’s fascination with sportswear, bringing a unique combination of logos and technical fabrics together on the runway.

The Swarovski Collective was founded in

PHOTOS: (LEFT) MARTINA FERRARA; (RIGHT) INDIGITALIMAGES.COM

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Above (all): Vivetta x Swarovski autumn/winter 2017/18

What better than an outsider’s take to inject brand vitality? a full crystal-studded two-piece look to the catwalk at Milan Fashion Week.

Vienna-born designer Arthur Arbesser also showed at Milan Fashion Week under the Swarovski Collective umbrella.

Arbesser’s sleek tailoring and sophisticated fabrics were an immediate success when he

PHOTOS: CARLO SCARPATO

1999 as a result of Nadja Swarovski, Isabella Blow and Alexander McQueen’s joint desire to support young designers, and over 150 designers have since collaborated with the Swarovski brand. The designers are set the task of working with the house’s crystals, and receive a year of support from Swarovski.

Vivetta, founded in Milan by Vivetta Ponti in 2009, combines whimsical retro references with bold colours and prints. Working with the Swarovski elements, Ponti took inspiration from the joyous, eccentric atmosphere of vintage circus for autumn/winter 2017/18.

‘Vintage, surrealist atmospheres have always attracted me so this inspiration came to me very naturally,’ she explains. Vivetta brought

Milano - Via Verri ang. Via Bigli - T. 02 36577334

presented his first collection at Milan Fashion Week in 2013. This season he was inspired by the Wim Wenders film Wings of Desire; military-like uniforms were given sparkling pinstripes with tiny heat-transferred crystals.

‘Almost the whole movie is shot in black and white, so I purposely wanted to push a very strong colour palette,’ he explains. ‘I imagined that the sombre black and white movie is in reality hiding mad colours and graphics from the viewer.’ Working with Swarovski for a second season presents Arbesser with the possibility of exploring ‘the incredible know-how, expertise and quality of a product like Swarovski [crystals]. On the other side, you put a modern, new spin on the product by using it in a unique and personal way.’

It’s specifically this personal element of collaborations that enriches the designs: as Giulio Colombo says, this is more than simply ‘the sum of two parts’. It brings about something greater and more innovative. What

better than an outsider’s take on your brand to inject extra vitality? And it certainly tells us a thing or two about the importance of not always walking alone

Above (clockwise from top left): two looks from Arthur Arbesser autumn/winter 2017/18, both embellished with Swarovski crystals; the designer, who was inspired this season by the Wim Wenders film Wings of Desire

PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT & RIGHT) © HENRIK BLOMQVIST; (BOTTOM) MATTHIAS ASCHAUER

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CONCEPT STORE THE HOUSE OF GLOBAL LIFESTYLE

MILAN, VIA VERRI 8

CITY OF FRAGRANCE

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A

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Intrigued by the future of fragrance? Visit Brera Founded in 1760 in London

by James Henry Creed, the house became an official supplier to the British royal household before relocating to Paris in the mid-19th century.

Over 150 years later, the store on Milan’s Via Madonnina was the brand’s first European boutique to open outside France. Designed to resemble an apartment, the space 142

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reflects Creed’s investment in innovation and style.

Silvio Levi is a leading expert in artistic perfumery and the founder of Calé, the fragrance distributor responsible for the conception of the Milan boutique, alongside Olivier and Erwin Creed, the sixth-generation and seventh-generation ‘noses’ of the Creed dynasty. For

Previous page: The Merchant of Venice store on Via Brera Above (clockwise from top left): Aventus fragrance by Creed; perfumer Olivier Creed; the brand’s Milan boutique

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) © FRANCO PIZZOCHERO

rtisanal fragrance houses, once perceived as the preserve of Paris, have found a new home in Milan’s Brera district. Situated between La Scala opera house and the Accademia di Brera, this formerly bohemian quarter of the city transports visitors back to the 19th century with its historical, artistic charm.

That sense of stepping back in time is one of the factors that has persuaded an increasing number of established fragrance houses to open boutiques in this part of town.

Creed is one example.

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This quarter of Milan increasingly feels like the fragrance capital of Europe Levi, the decision to open in Brera was an obvious one. ‘Via Brera, Via Fiori Chiari and Via Madonnina are now nestling more artisanal fragrance houses than the whole of Paris!’ he exclaims. ‘Walking the streets is more relaxing and interesting than in any other location.’ In terms of the design of the store, he says, ‘Creed’s code has been strictly respected, but originality and creativity are represented by pale grey shelves and containers in transparent crystal, cantilevered by long, shining stainless steel bars.’

This aesthetic is an ideal canvas for Creed’s individual

approach to creating scents; its men’s, women’s and unisex fragrances have cult status and the house is known for creating scents for prominent figures from Winston Churchill to the Duchess of Cambridge.

The Merchant of Venice, an artisan perfumer on Via Brera, can be traced back to the 17th century and the Vidal family, who saw the need for a cultural luxury brand that would encapsulate the unique Venetian spirit. The boutique in Milan opened in 2016 and is characterised by a distinctive dark red decor, a nod to its Venetian heritage. It was designed by

Above: the dark red decor of The Merchant of Venice store reflects its Venetian heritage

Brera-born stage designer Pier Luigi Pizzi, who later moved to Venice. ‘My design is nostalgically reminiscent of the classic nobleness of ancient pharmacies, ideally merged with the contemporary context of functional shelves.

Venetian red is the chromatic, dominating element that exalts the brand in this aristocratic urban space,’ Pizzi explains.

The Merchant of Venice offers an exclusive assortment of eaux de parfum and eaux de toilette, and is renowned as much for the elaborate design of its bottles as the fragrances inside. The Murano collection, inspired

Milano, Piazza Duomo 19 - www.cielo.it Tel +39 02 87 40 10 info@cielo.it cielo1914 cielo 1914

by the Venetian glass of the same name, is an evocation of travel from Italy to the Orient, and is presented in beautifully coloured Murano glass bottles.

Where the Merchant of Venice and Creed offer an indulgent exploration of a single brand, Campomarzio70 on Via Brera has been scouring the globe for exclusive scents for almost 100 years. As a result, the boutique offers a carefully curated selection of fragrances from esteemed names such as Acqua di Parma and Floris, alongside modern classics that include Comme des Garçons and Byredo and quintessentially British fragrance houses Miller

Harris and Penhaligon’s.

Campomarzio70 has stores in a number of European countries and is known for its personal service, but the Milan boutique is particularly distinguished by its decor in opulent tones of lapis lazuli blue – and by its elegant champagne bar.

While these three boutiques epitomise artisanal luxury, they are by no means the only ones to visit. Profumo is a fragrance boutique situated in a palazzo that was once the home of the noble Beccaria family. The Olfattorio Bar à Parfums multi-brand space is perfect for sampling a range of scents and there is also Diptyque,

whose distinctive, old-world aesthetic fits seamlessly into the landscape, looking as though it has been there for hundreds of years.

As this quarter of Milan increasingly feels like the fragrance capital of Europe, one wonders what scents we will be wearing in the years to come. ‘Research now is about odours that do not exist in nature – metals, stone, electricity or laser-inspired fragrances,’ says Levi. He also notes a new code for strong femininity: ‘steel and flowers’ and ‘aluminium and romanticism’ are some of the pairings he predicts. Intrigued by the future of fragrance?

Brera is the place to visit

Above (clockwise from top): The Merchant of Venice Murano collection; Jardin d’Amalfi fragrance by Creed; the Profumo boutique on Via Brera

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PHOTO: © 2014 MARCO VAROLI

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CAMPOMARZIO70 OFFERS A CAREFULLY CURATED SELECTION OF FRAGRANCES FROM ESTEEMED NAMES TO MODERN CLASSICS

Above: the Campomarzio70 boutique is distinguished by decor as opulent as the scents it stocks

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Safe And Sound

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Agresti fuses style and functionality to present innovative storage solutions that radiate luxury.

CEO Paolo Agresti tells Hannah Lewis about the brand’s unique concept

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AGRESTI’S INNOVATIVE, ULTRAMODERN, LUXURIOUS SAFE STORAGE SOLUTIONS BALANCE FORM WITH FUNCTION

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e all want to keep our valuables safe, but when it comes to ensuring their utmost security, aesthetics can often be an afterthought. Not so with Agresti, a brand fusing the latest tools and technology in the world of security with the finest Italian materials and craftsmanship to present safe storage options as beautiful as any interior design object.

‘Agresti is a family business started in 1949 by my parents,’ explains CEO Paolo Agresti, who runs the company today alongside his wife, Francesca Vanni. Agresti’s parents, Osvaldo and Pia, had been employed in a leather goods factory, but were possessed of an entrepreneurial spirit from a young age, and soon began work on their own business. ‘They were both highly motivated,’ says Paolo Agresti of his parents. That motivation led to rapid success. In the beginning, the Agrestis focused on calf split leather boxes with gold trimmings, a traditional Florentine design. Just a few months after the company’s inception, the 139

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couple was able to rent a workshop in the heart of Florence, and hire the first staff members.

The business grew quickly, and when the flood of 1966 destroyed its premises, a new factory was built just outside the city to accommodate the firm’s expanding production needs. Agresti’s output has grown and changed over the years, but the company’s home remains in Scandicci on the outskirts of Florence. ‘We manufacture everything in Florence, under one roof,’ says Paolo Agresti, who joined the family business in 1980.

The ethos of Agresti has never changed and its focus on fine Florentine craftsmanship and elegant aesthetics has carried it through almost seven decades. But Agresti’s product range has evolved and expanded far beyond those first leather boxes. Today, its flagship products are far more innovative: ultramodern, ultraluxurious safe storage solutions that balance form and function. ‘Over the years we have developed the concept of luxurious storage for jewellery and watches,’ explains Previous page: Agresti’s strong rooms and panic rooms can be concealed in a living room Above: CEO Paolo Agresti and his wife Francesca Vanni

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Agresti lets clients ensure the security of their valuables without compromising on style Paolo Agresti. ‘Undoubtedly, what makes us truly unique worldwide is our precious wood armoires with safes inside – a beautiful mix of aesthetics and functionality.’

Agresti has a discerning client base; sophisticated customers who wish to ensure the security of their valuables but who don’t want to compromise on style. Agresti armoires are beautiful design pieces in their own right, handmade by Florentine craftsmen from luxurious woods and leathers with 24-carat gold hardware. Inside, biometric safes open to reveal a variety of trays, drawers and compartments designed to house watches, jewellery, pens and more in perfect security.

And each can be customised to clients’ exact needs. ‘We have a full catalogue of available items, but more and more of the most expensive cabinets are required partially or completely modified,’ notes Paolo Agresti.

These customisation options include integral Swiss-made watch winders, safes opened by remote control, interactive screens linked to Above (from top): two views of the Lei-Lui Noce armoured jewellery armoire in matte canaletto walnut with 24-carat gold hardware; Onda Artico armoured jewellery armoire in polished white bird’s eye maple and mahogany with 24-carat gold hardware, both Agresti

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silent alarms and, most recently, strong rooms and panic rooms. Secret compartments for the most precious of valuables are also available.

The strong rooms and panic rooms display the amazing extent of Agresti’s creative vision. Made to your exact specifications and assembled wherever you are in the world by the brand’s experts, the rooms are fully air conditioned, and contain bespoke storage solutions for all your valuables, as well as everything you could need to keep you comfortable while you await assistance, from entertainment options to fully stocked fridges.

If you’re interested in commissioning one of Agresti’s amazing creations, the brand has flagship stores in Milan, London and Moscow, and a further store is set to open soon in a key location in China. There are also corners and shop-in-shops in various locations across the world. The brand works directly with architects and interior designers, meaning you can seamlessly incorporate Agresti’s armoires and more into any new project you may be

Agresti works with architects and interior designers working on. Perhaps one of Paolo Agresti’s most exciting commissions will inspire your own. ‘We worked on large polished ebony custom-made cabinets with two safes each, one of which featured bullet-proof glass,’ he says. These cases were lined to house watches and jewellery and protected by fingerprint recognition. With 10 of these cabinets made for a secret room for a single Chinese client, it’s no wonder Agresti found the project memorable.

Whatever you’re seeking to look after, Agresti has the solution. Be sure to pay a visit to the Agresti flagship during your time in Milan to discover one of Italy’s most niche and luxurious brands

Above (clockwise from top left): interior details of Agresti’s strong rooms and panic rooms; the brand’s Milan boutique

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RAISING THE BAR Milan’s top bars offer world-class cocktails and aperitivi. Kirsty Andrews seeks out the best tipples in the city

Milan is known for its world-class fashion and food, and another of its attractions is its plethora of ultra-chic bars, which are also among the best in Europe. The city offers a varied wealth of venues to suit all tastes.

Every visitor to the city should discover the aperitivo, a much-loved Italian ritual of predinner drinks accompanied by delicious finger food. Be sure to sample a classic negroni or an Aperol spritz to savour the authentic Milanese aperitivo experience. At cocktail time, Milan’s mixologists can hold their own among the best in the world. Whether you’re looking for a classic drink or a new discovery, our pick of some of the best bars in Milan will make your cocktail hour unforgettable. globalblue.com

PHOTO: FRANCESCO MION

TERRAZZA 12

Situated at the top of the famous Brian & Barry Building, which is home to 12 floors of food and fashion, Terrazza 12 boasts 360-degree views of Milan’s skyline. Glass walls allow guests to appreciate the panorama all year round.

The bar’s interior is beautifully decorated with a 1950s-inspired theme and is the perfect place to relax after a long day of shopping. Terrazza 12 offers 12 signature cocktails created especially for the bar, with many other classic drinks also available. All the cocktails were created with the menu at the building’s Asola restaurant in mind – an ideal combination of mixology and gourmet dining.

Terrazza 12, Brian & Barry Building, Via Durini 28, 20122 Milan, +39 02 9285 3651, terrazza12.it

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PINCH SPIRITS & KITCHEN

Founded in the canalside Navigli district by four friends in 2014, Pinch Spirits & Kitchen offers an international approach. Pinch takes its retro style cues from the US Prohibition era; jazz music and bartenders dressed in waistcoats and braces take visitors on a journey back through time to the 1920s and 30s. Co-founder and manager Mattia Lissoni is an expert mixologist, inviting his customers to try new flavours and combinations in cocktails steeped in history yet combined with modern touches.

Pinch Spirits & Kitchen, Ripa di Porta Ticinese 63, 20143 Milan, +39 02 3652 8204, facebook.com/PinchMilano

MAG CAFÈ Mag Cafè is known for its on-point mixology.

The Mag team is passionate about the craft and about creating exceptional drinks. The bar is situated on a canal in the Navigli district, a picturesque location for a pre-dinner drink. The atmosphere is lively, with great music and soft globalblue.com

lighting, and the stylish decor features antique furniture, a wooden bar and cabinets filled with curiosities, creating a nostalgic feel. If cocktails aren’t for you, Mag Cafè offers a wide and wellthought out wine selection, and staff are always on hand to help with suggestions.

Mag Cafè, Ripa di Porta Ticinese 43, 20143 Milan, +39 02 3956 2875

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O C TAV I U S

Located inside Replay the Stage, one of Milan’s most popular restaurants, Octavius is one of the city’s finest bars. Its furnishings take guests on a nautical journey, and you will feel as though you are sitting in a classic vintage liner cruising the Italian Riviera. Booths are crafted in dark wood covered with exquisitely stitched luxurious cream leather, the perfect places to sit back and relax with one of the signature house cocktails.

CERESIO 7 Ceresio 7, created by designers Dan and Dean Caten of fashion label Dsquared2, is situated on the top floor of the brand’s headquarters.

It is the perfect place to enjoy an aperitivo or a refreshing cocktail and you will always find a crowd at this popular spot, drawn by its style credentials as well as by the vast array of drinks on offer. This American-style bar serves classic drinks infused with its own Italian twist. Sit in one of its warm and inviting lounges or at one of its poolside tables to take in the stunning views over Milan. Try the 7th Signature, which mixes the fruity freshness of Muscat eau de vie with cassis liqueur and lime, finished with Moët Ice Impérial Rosé champagne. For a more intense flavour, pick the Gentleman Choice, which blends Johnnie Walker Blue Label whisky, PX sherry, Poire Williams eau de vie and chocolate – an ideal way to complete your evening.

Ceresio 7, Via Ceresio 7, 20154 Milan, +39 02 3103 9221, ceresio7.com globalblue.com

Octavius’s passion is for perfection, and it is the team’s attention to detail that makes every drink exceptional. The cocktail list has something for everybody. We recommend trying the bar’s namesake julep, a concoction accented with rhubarb bitters and fresh lime.

Octavius, Replay the Stage, Piazza Gae Aulenti 4, 20124 Milan, +39 02 6379 3539, replaythestage.com

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STAY IN STYLE The world’s finest hotels boast desirable locations, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best

RENAISSANCE PARIS REPUBLIQUE Situated within walking distance of the captivating Marais district, Renaissance Paris Republique offers sleek accommodation in one of the French capital’s hippest areas. Its modern interior globalblue.com

décor has retro touches and its rooms are the epitome of contemporary chic, with beds clad in luxurious linen. The hotel’s Spa O by Sothys offers a hot tub and steam rooms as well as treatments that include body wraps, massages and facials. Once you’re suitably relaxed, stop by Martin Bar for an aperitif before sampling the

delectable cuisine at the Origin Restaurant. Presided over by chef Bénédicte van der Motte, it recently received an Assiette award from Michelin.

Renaissance Paris Republique Hotel, 40 rue René Boulanger, 75010 Paris, +33 (0)1 7118 2095, marriott.com

VIA SANT’ANDREA 10/A, 20121 MILANO

STUARTWEITZMAN.COM

98 | E X P E R I E N C E

THE NED With 252 bedrooms, nine restaurants, a members’ club, a barbershop, a beauty salon and a nail bar, The Ned has quickly become one of London’s coolest new hangouts. Housed in a former Midland Bank building in the City of London designed by Sir Edwin ‘Ned’ Lutyens in globalblue.com

1924, the refurbished building remains true to the grandeur of 1920s and 1930s design. Bedrooms feature hand-knotted rugs, brass and mahogany furniture, chandeliers and richly pattered textiles. Guests at The Ned are granted access to the exclusive membersonly Ned’s Club, with its heated rooftop pool and bar, offering stunning views of the

City and St Paul’s Cathedral.

One of the hotel’s unique features can be found in the basement – the 20-tonne, two-metre-wide vault door which once kept the bank’s strongroom secure now opens into the the Vault bar and lounge.

The Ned, 27 Poultry, London EC2R 8AJ, +44 (0)20 3828 2000, thened.com

PHOTO: THE NED

dual langauge book in 2 columns, single language in 3 columns

S H O P | 99

PHOTO: TAMASPAL.HU

HOTEL PARLAMENT Situated in the heart of downtown Budapest, this chic boutique hotel is tucked away from the hustle and bustle of the city. The hotel’s classic 19th-century facade contrasts with the interior design aesthetic, where contemporary, minimalist decor creates a

sense of tranquillity from the hotel’s reception to the 64 rooms and suites. Guests can enjoy fresh pastries and a hearty selection of continental delicacies every morning in the glass-roofed atrium breakfast room. Other amenities include the wellness centre, which offers a sauna, a Jacuzzi and a selection of relaxing spa treatments. The hotel’s fully

stocked lounge bar, an ideal place to while away an evening, serves complimentary tea and coffee throughout the day, while the cosy library room is the perfect place to relax after a day exploring Budapest.

Hotel Parlament, Kálmán Imre utca 19, 1054 Budapest, +36 (06) 1 374 6000, parlament-hotel.hu

E X P E R I E N C E | 101

PHOTO: DESIGN HOTELS

GASTWERK HOTEL HAMBURG Housed in a 19th-century former municipal gasworks, Gastwerk Hotel Hamburg is unique. Designed to showcase its industrial architecture, this one-of-akind hotel features an atrium lobby, flooded with natural globalblue.com

light from two enormous arched windows, and a glass roof. A gigantic green industrial machine and an old tower clock serve as reminders of the building’s previous incarnation as a power station. To complement the building’s industrial edge, rooms are furnished with walnut wood tables and minimalist design pieces with rich materials,

accompanied by orientalinspired fabrics. The Moroccan-influenced spa offers a variety of beauty and relaxation treatments, while the Mangold restaurant serves creative fusioninspired cuisine.

Gastwerk Hotel Hamburg, Beim Alten Gastwerk 3, 22761 Hamburg, +49 (0)40 890620, gastwerk.com

fabiogavazzi.it | Montenapoleone 21, Milano

luxury furs

104 | G U I D E

GUIDE

PHOTO: IGORSAVELIEV/CC0 PUBLIC DOMAIN

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Milan with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from top footwear boutiques to the best cashmere in town. Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/milan.

Above: discover art by Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci at Castello Sforzesco on Piazza Castello, formerly a fortress, now home to a number of Milan’s most interesting museums

106 | G U I D E

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Moreschi This footwear brand creates more than just impeccably crafted shoes – check out its stunning bags, gloves and accessories.

Moreschi, Piazza San Babila 1-3, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7628 0529, moreschi.it

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FEATURED ON PAGE 74

Place Of Interest

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FEATURED ON PAGE 44

The Merchant of Venice For a sublime souvenir, visit this acclaimed Brera perfumery and choose a new signature scent.

The Merchant of Venice, Via Brera 4, 20121 Milan, CO +39 02 8058 1268,R S O M AG EN TA themerchantofvenice.net

CHIA

NIN

ON CASTELLO SFORZESCO

PIA Z Z

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BU

FEATURED ON PAGE 24

Orologeria Luigi Verga Celebrate the 70th anniversary of this revered watch and jewellery boutique by investing in a piece by Cartier, Patek Philippe or Rolex in store.

Orologeria Luigi Verga, Via Vincenzo Capelli 6, 20124 Milan, +39 02 659 5775, luigiverga.it

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Alberto Guardiani For a striking pair of heels from the new Ski Retrò collection, step this way.

Alberto Guardiani, Corso Venezia 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1697, albertoguardiani.com

VIA SO

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BASILICA DI SAN MARCO

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CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II AREA Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Via San Pietro all’Orto & Via Torino Piazza della Scala

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Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Via San Pietro all’Orto & Via Torino

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MASSIMO DUTTI ● GEOX ● ● NADINE ● TOUCH & GO ● OYSHO ● LUISA SPAGNOLI KIKO ● SWATCH ● ● MILAN MEGA STORE GOBBI 1842 ● ● MICHAEL KORS MARILENA ● ● PINKO SWAROVSKI ● ● DISNEY ● LIU JO ZARA ● THE HIGHLINE T O MEN ● ● FOOT LOCKER ’OR ALL ● GAP ZARA ● TRO ● ADIDAS . P IE CALZEDONIA ● V. S ● TEZENIS ● PULL & BEAR BENETTON ● ● SEPHORA IS ● BERSHKA IS TO F O R IA DE CR ● MANGO G A LL ER ● VERGELIO MAX MARA ● MAX & CO ● Excelsior PENNYBLACK ● ● MOTIVI I BLUES ● ● WYCON ● YAMAMAY MARELLA ● MARINA RINALDI ● ● CISALFA

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Featured In This Issue

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Piazza San Babila, Corso Matteotti & Via Bigli Corso Venezia & Corso Europa

114 | G U I D E

MONTENAPOLEONE AREA V

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WALTER PADOVANI ● ANTIQUARIO ● DAAD DANTONE ANTIQUARIATO BENSI ● ● CARLO TIVIOLI O ● NEIL BARRETT GIOIELLI DI SANTO SPIRITO 13 ● T I SÙ GIORGIO JANEKE ● I R ● DUVETICA GE P GIANVITO ROSSI ● IA S ● DROME BALLIN ● O ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE V T CHANTECLER ● N ● PAROSH Global Blue Lounge S A ● IL BISONTE P.56 I A ● N° 21 STELLA V MCCARTNEY ●

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Featured In This Issue

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This season, Italian knitwear specialist Falconeri has launched a homeware collection to add to its extensive lines for men and women. The brand is known for its focus on cashmere and the new interior décor additions utilise this material to great effect.

The cushion and throw set, which comes in two colours, taps into the trend for cosy homewares inspired by the Danish concept of hygge. In addition, the brand has recently relaunched its fragrance collection. Take your pick from Elicriso, with elegant notes of helichrysum, the fresh, Mediterraneaninspired Fico (fig) and the feminine yet intense Ambra (amber). All three offer the spirit of the Falconeri brand in a bottle.

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Falconeri, Via Montenapoleone/Via Alessandro Manzoni 20, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 3017, falconeri.com

Metro

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PHOTO: STYLESHOOTS

FALCONERI

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LORIBLU Renowned luxury footwear label Loriblu has launched its autumn/winter 2017/18 collection, which draws inspiration from the fairy-tale-like imaginative space between fantasy and reality. Graziano Cuccù’s designs embody elegance, personality and style and uphold the traditions of the Marche region, often cited as the most important footwear district in the world.

Warm colours and rich materials such as leather, suede and velvet help establish the magical yet glamorous style of the collection.

Key pieces for women include high-heeled sandals and pumps either studded with gold, pearls and Swarovski crystals or adorned with colourful furs; these are offered alongside elegantly tailored lace-up shoes and suede ankle boots for men.

Loriblu, Via Alessandro Manzoni 19, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7202 2800, loriblu.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 120

SIMONETTA Dancing layers of tulle, delicate polka dot prints and applique silver thread stars are some of the stunning flourishes that enhance the charming autumn/winter 2017/18 collection at Simonetta. This season, the Italian childrenswear brand’s collection for little girls takes inspiration from ballerinas. Using lightweight and breathable fabrics such as cotton satin, fleece and soft neoprene, Simonetta offers clothing that is both elegant and comfortable. Floral motifs are appliqued onto woollen dresses and accessories and woodland creatures appear on dresses, skirts and T-shirts. Visit the Milan boutique to explore the whimsical new collection and bring some graceful clothing home to your tiny dancers.

Simonetta, Via Alessandro Manzoni 42, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 8077, simonetta.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 120

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Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

BOUTIQUE in CORSO MAGENTA 30, MILANO · T +39 02 45 47 10 01 · LOCHERBERMILANO.COM

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CORSO COMO, GAE AULENTI & BRERA AREA

Piazza Gae Aulenti, Corso Como & Corso Garibaldi STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI GARIBALDI FS

LA FELTRINELLI SWATCH ● ● READ EAT DREAM

MOLESKINE ●

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SELECTED SHOPS IN STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI: Accessorize Calzedonia Eurobijoux Foot Locker I Gemelli Gioielli ER SP La Feltrinelli A TITO I V Tezenis

TOP 3... TAILORS Ferdinando Caraceni For a bespoke suit that is closer to a piece of art than a set of clothing, look no further than this longestablished, respected family business.

Ferdinando Caraceni, Via San Marco 22A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 655 4284, caracenisartoria.com

Rubinacci Founded in Naples, this paragon of gentlemanly elegance is known not just for impeccable suiting but also for shirts, ties and accessories.

Rubinacci, Via Montenapoleone 18/Via del Gesù 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 1564, marianorubinacci.net FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 114

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

Train Station

Ermenegildo Zegna Traditional Italian craftsmanship and the best-quality fabrics are at the heart of every Ermenegildo Zegna collection.

Ermenegildo Zegna, Via Montenapoleone 27E, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6437, zegna.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 116

Shopping Centre/Mall

Featured In This Issue

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S EAD ● OLLB E T TA ● TR NAMON CAN C IN ● ● L IO C H IC A SY ● F.C S S O 3 5 IN O E ● R O AT T R O L'A B IT ● 4 U O P IÙ ● UN IR S OR L L O N U P S TA ● ZH A ● A IE LLI ● CL ARDE ● M .B ONE RO ● ET D E S IM ● IE L E G IO N A R O L U IS AC C A R IA U F ● DI ● BE A T T IN ● CA O % L IN ● 12 0

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OTTICA AVANZI ● BLU DEEP ● GIOIELLI MERÙ ● PESERICO ● ST. BARTH ● LO SFIZIO ● MALI PARMI ● LE PANDORINE ● MANUEL RITZ ● SOLFERINO MARKET ●

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LIPS TICK VINTAGE ●

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Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 127

MORESCHI Moreschi has earned a reputation as one the most luxurious footwear manufacturers in Italy, with the process of creating one of its covetable shoes taking between 250 and 300 steps. Traditional techniques have been passed down through three generations of the Moreschi family since the brand’s 1946 inception in Vigevano, in the heart of the Italy’s shoemaking region. Moreschi’s footwear combines the highest manufacturing skills with class, style and comfort. This season look out for the stunning selection of heeled boots for women, as well as a host of unique crossbody chain strap handbags and tasseled gloves in autumnal shades, perfect for the new season.

Moreschi, Piazza San Babila 1-3, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7628 0529, moreschi.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 111

IL GUFO Head to Il Gufo’s Milan boutique to discover the new autumn/winter 2017/18 range, inspired by the childlike wonderment of magic. This theme is translated into tops which twinkle with sparkling stars and glittery fur-lined gowns for little girls, and jumpers with wolves, eagles and skiers for little boys. We adore the merino wool knit from the girls’ range; its large weaves and jacquard detailing depict a snowy mountain scene with added precious pom-poms. We also love the Silver Label occasion dresses in tulle, taffeta and velvet. With so much to choose from, you’ll have plenty of excuses to buy a special present for your little one.

Il Gufo, Via San Pietro All’Orto 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3705 9805, ilgufo.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 109

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CORSO BUENOS AIRES AREA

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● CLARKS PANDORA ● ● RITA BOUTIQUE DESIGUAL ● ● LIU JO ELENA MIRO ● ● DIECIDECIMI V I A GI STROILI ORO ● OV ● FURLA AN GEOX ● ● DANIEL & MAYER NI OM SWAROVSKI ● ● KOCCA BO ● ANTONY MORATO NI ● TWIN SET FOOT LOCKER ● L’OCCITANE ● ● AERONAUTICA MILITARE PUMA ● CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● O ● CARRERA JEANS OST DA M E CA ● NIKE MILANO LV IS V IA A ● M COLLECTIVE VERGELIO ● IC

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Terrazza Triennale, Viale Alemagna Emilio 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3664 4340, osteriaconvista.it

Metro

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TERRAZZA TRIENNALE Situated inside the city’s notable art and design museum La Triennale di Milano, the recently-opened Terrazza Triennale restaurant boasts breathtaking views of Milan. The panoramic terrace is housed in a transparent glasshouse, suspended spectacularly over the Sempione park with views of the Sforze castle and the captivating Milan skyline. Head chef Stefano Cerveni’s delectable dinner menu, prepared using the best local produce, offers a real taste of Italy, and the in-house mixologists create tempting cocktails at the central bar. Visit for a quick aperitivo or linger over a romantic meal.

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LOUNGE EXPERIENCE APP

SHOP TAX FREE IN ITALY Discover the new tax refund experience with Global Blue’s Lounges, saving you time and money. Plus you can discover shopping trips in Italy, city maps, events and local store information.

Download the Lounge Experience app now

S H O P | 131

DAY TRIP OPENING TIMES MondaySunday: 10am-8pm

SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET The largest and most successful designer outlet in Italy, Serravalle Designer Outlet boasts 300 stores, cafés and restaurants, as well as a range of guest services.

Serravale Designer Outlet, Via della Moda 1, 15069 Serravalle, +39 0143 609000, mcarthurglen.it/serravalle

MILAN

A4

A50

A7

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A7

Serravalle Designer Outlet

HOW TO GET THERE

50 NEW OPENINGS...

By car From Milan, take the A7 until you see the exit for Serravalle Scrivia. Take the exit and follow signs for Serravalle Designer Outlet. The journey takes around an hour.

Serravalle Designer Outlet recently completed an extensive expansion with the following brands opening stores: Chic, trend-led womenswear from Sandro and Lancel Mainstream brands including Gap, Pepe Jeans and Vans Sportswear from top labels New Balance and Salomon World-renowned coffee machines and capsules from Nespresso

By shuttle bus The popular shuttle bus service takes customers from Milan to Serravalle six times a day.

Outlet Village

• • • •

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DAY TRIP VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS Explore 150 boutiques offering more than 300 international brands and Italian labels with discounts of between 30% and 70% all year round. Vicolungo The Style Outlets is conveniently located only 30 minutes from central Milan and Malpensa airport.

Vicolungo The Style Outlets, Piazza San Caterina/ Via Papa Giovanni XXIII, 28060 Vicolungo, +39 0321 835032, vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it OPENING TIMES MondaySunday: 10am-8pm

MALPENSA AIRPORT

A26 E64

Vicolungo The Style Outlets

A4

MILAN

GLAMOUR & GOURMET EXPERIENCE Vicolungo The Style Outlets also caters for lovers of haute cuisine. The Glamour & Gourmet Experience combines a gourmet lunch with an afternoon of shopping.

Foodies can enjoy a three-course meal at the Café & Bistrot in Novara belonging to two-Michelin-starred chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo and take advantage of the convenient shuttle bus which leaves for the centre daily at 10.30am from Milano Cairoli.

HOW TO GET THERE By car Take the A4 from Milan towards Turin and take the Biandrate/Vicolungo exit.

Outlet Village

Airport

By shuttle bus Shuttle bus services depart daily at 10.30am from the Milano Cairoli subway station, returning at 4.30pm. Tickets are €20 per adult, €10 per child over the age of four; ticketholders enjoy an extra 10% discount.

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Spend a minimum of €154.95 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

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Malpensa Airport: Terminal 1, Departures check-in, Area 12, second floor Terminal 1, Area A Schengen (after security control), first floor Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Linate Airport: Forexchange Maccorp, Departures Downtown Milan: La Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer service desk), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan Downtown Como: Viaggi Ronchi, Lungo Lario Trieste 10 146

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TRANSLATIONS 中文翻译

Au Jour Le Jour，他们把标志性的色彩和面料运用到 了Colmar的胶 囊系列之中。Colombo认为这样的合

64: The Power Of Partnership

作“可以最大程度上体现出品牌身份的双面性：一方面

合作的力量

是在 运动服 装领域的顶尖 技术和技能，另一方面是独 具一格的创新 精神，后者能为造型和色彩的重 新 诠 释 带来耳目一新的谐 趣效果。”

Au Jour Le Jour擅长 玩转诙谐幽默的微缩印刷 品。设计师在设计胶 囊系列时， “ 重 新加工Colmar标志 图案，加入大号和微缩字母，致敬当代社会对品牌 标志 的狂热。”Colombo娓娓 道来。他 还解释 说，Colmar 的经典款式是年轻设计师的创作之源，比如有一款 就 是在意大利前滑雪队曾穿过的夹克基 础上 进行创作 的。“从 AJLJ看到我们经典款式的那一刻起，他们就已 经知道，该如何将 Colmar的品牌传统和实用特性与他 们的自身风 格结合起来。Diego和 Mirko将 Colmar的 悠久历史完美揉入到设计中。” 除此之外，颇有成就的米兰设计师 Massimo Giorgetti决定将 Diadora的作品搬 上 MSGM男装秀 场，其中包括 Diadora品牌的运动鞋、运动长裤、短 裤、运动衫和 T恤— — 每一件都洋 溢着上世 纪九十年 代的运动休闲风。毕竟，运动装早已不只具备运动功 能。Diadora诞 生于1948年，最初是一家手工登山鞋 公司。通 过深入研究 Diadora海量的过往 款式，两个品 牌 之间的合作重 新燃起了成 衣对运动装的爱恨纠葛， 别出心裁 地将品牌 标志和科 技面料组合在一起呈现在 秀场上。

从合作中有所收获。Patrick Clark向您介绍这个季度

施华 洛世奇集体创作项目（Swarovski Collective）成立于1999年，源于 Nadja Swarovski、Isabella Blow和 Alexander McQueen 支持年轻设计师的共同愿望，目前已有超 过 150位设

意大利最激动人心的设计合作

计师与施华 洛世奇品牌合作。他们的任务 是以施华 洛

崭露头角的业界新秀和声名显赫的大牌设计师都可以

世奇水晶为创作素材，并将得到品牌为期一年的支持。 米兰在国际时装界的地位举足轻 重，这可归功于大量

由Vivetta Ponti于 2009年在 米兰创立的 Vivetta把异

颇具影响力的时装品牌。随着年轻一代设计师开始 崭

想天开的复古款式与大胆的色彩和图案相结合。Ponti

露头角，他们面临着与老一代设计师同台竞技的挑战。

采用施华 洛世奇水晶元素，从古老马戏团的欢乐奇异

要巩固国际知名的大师和璀璨 新秀之间的关系，跨界

气氛中汲取灵感，创作 2017/18秋冬季。“我一直 对复

设计就是一个不错的方法。2017/18秋冬，许多令人惊

古和超现实感兴趣，自然而然便产生了这样的灵感， ”

喜的米兰设计师们纷 纷建立 起创意合作关系；同时，知

她解释 道。在 米兰时装周上，Vivetta展 示了一款镶 满

名品牌还为青年才俊提 供有力支持，激动人心的设计

水晶的两件套作品。

PHOTO: MARTINA FERRARA

作品遍地开花。 意大利外衣品牌 Colmar的首席执行官 Giulio

出生于维也纳的设计师 Arthur Arbesser同样 在 米兰时装周的施华 洛世奇集体创作项目中登台亮相。

Colombo认为，与年轻设计师的合作促使传统大牌挑

他曾在 2013年的米兰时装周上展 示自己的处女作，凭

战设计极限。这个季度，作为Vogue Talents项目的一

借 干净利落的剪裁和复杂而精致的面料一战成名。这

部分，Colmar与 Au Jour Le Jour携手，深掘品牌的过

个季度，他从Wim Wenders执导的电影《柏林苍穹

往 款式，同时注入年轻合作者的创作才华。设计师

下》（ Wings of Desire）当中受到启发，细小的水晶

Mirko Fontana和 Diego Marquez于 2010年创立了

烫细条纹让军装风 格制服熠熠生辉。“几乎整部电影

globalblue.cn

138

都是以黑白为基调，因此我想刻意采用一种非常强烈

特精 髓的文化奢侈品牌。米兰精品店于 2016年开张迎

的配色。”他解释 道， “ 在我看来，阴郁的黑白电影实际

客，别具一格地以深红色为装饰风 格，向威 尼斯传统致

上是让疯 狂的色彩和图案与观众捉 迷藏。”第二次与

敬。由舞台设计师 Pier Luigi Pizzi设计，他出生于布雷

施华 洛世奇合作的 Arbesser 趁此机会深入探索了“施

拉，后搬 至威 尼斯。“我的设计令人不禁回忆起旧时药

华洛世奇令人惊叹的工艺技巧、专业技术和上乘品质。

店的经典和高贵，完美地与当代实用风 格的展 示柜融为

另一方面，每一次独具特色个 性化地 运用也能为作品

一体。主打的威 尼斯 红色元素 让品牌 在充满贵族气息

带来别开生面的现代气息。”

的都市区熠熠生辉。”Pizzi解释 道。

正是 这种合作中的个人因素 让 这些设计作品有了 非凡的意义：正如 Giulio Colombo所 说，这不仅仅

The Merchant of Venice制作了一系列名贵淡香 精（edp）和淡香水（edt），精心设计的玻璃瓶与所盛 放

是“一加一等于二” ，更伟大、更富创意的作品应运而

的香水一样赫 赫有名。穆拉诺（ Murano）系列根据威

生。若想为品牌注入全新活力，最好的人 选莫过于 一

尼斯同名玻璃制品命名，重 新演绎从意大利到东方的神

个“外人”。这也在某种程度上告诫着我们杜绝 孤军奋

秘之旅，盛 放在优雅的彩色穆拉诺玻璃瓶中。

战的重要。

除了在 The Merchant of Venice和 Creed精品店 中领略特定品牌的魅力之外，位于 Via Brera大街的

74: City Of Fragrance

Campomarzio70在过去的100年中网罗了世界 各地的

香氛之城

珍奇香氛。精品店中陈列了各种精心挑 选的香水，既有

意大利的时尚中心永葆 欧洲香氛 之都的美誉。Beth

Druce带您寻 香于米兰香氛街区布雷拉

诸如 Acqua di Parma、Floris等知名品牌，又有 Comme des Garçons、Byredo等现代经典品牌，以及 英国元 老级香氛品牌 Miller Harris和 Penhaligon’s。Campomarzio70在许多欧洲国家都

手工香水作坊一度被视作巴黎的王 牌，如今它在 米兰的

设有专卖店，以贴心的私人服务而 著 称。其中米兰精品

布雷拉区（ Brera）找到了新家。该街区位于斯 卡拉歌剧

店最与众不同，以大量的青金石蓝为装饰风 格，还配有

院（ La Scala theatre）米兰布雷拉美 术学院

典雅的香槟 吧。

（ Accademia di Brera）之间，这里曾经是波西米亚人

除了这 三家代表 奢华手工香氛的精品店之外，还有

聚集地，以悠久的历史和迷人的艺术风情 让游客感觉梦

许多其他选择。香氛精品店 Profumo坐落于一座宫殿，

回19世 纪。正是 这种时光倒流的奇妙感觉让 越来越多

曾经是贵族 Beccaria家族的府邸。Olfattorio Bar à Parfums多品牌商店是挑 选和试用香氛的理想选择。 还有 Diptyque别具一格的复古风 格与周围环境完美融

的知名香氛品牌 在 这个地区开设精品店。

Creed就是其中一个。该品牌由 James Henry Creed于1760年在伦敦创建，是英国王 室的钦定供应 商，19世 纪中期移址巴黎。150多年后在 米兰的玛尼纳 大街（ Via Madonnina）开设了品牌 在法国之外的第一 家欧洲精品店。店面设计 形似公寓，体现出 Creed对创

为一体，仿佛已经伫立在那里数百年。 随着米兰的这块街区逐渐成为欧洲香氛中心，令人 不禁想知道 未来人们将使用什么样的香水。“我们正在 研究自然界中不存在的味道— —从金属、石头、电或激

新和风 格的重 视。

光汲取灵感。”Levi表示。他同时还提出女强人香水的

Silvio Levi是艺术香氛 界首屈一指的专家，也是 Calé的创始人。这位香水经销商与 Creed家族 第六代和 第七代“掌门人”Olivier Creed和 Erwin Creed共同打 造了Creed米兰精品店。对 Levi来说，在布雷拉开店的 原因显而易见。“现在布雷拉大街（ Via Brera）、菲奥 利查瑞大街（ Via Fiori Chiari）和玛尼纳大街（ Via Madonnina）上开设的手工香氛 店的数 量比巴黎全市

新标准来 彰显刚柔并济之美，预测出“钢铁和鲜花”、 “ 铝和浪漫”等香味 组合。想知道香氛何去 何从？布雷拉 是您寻找答案的理想目的地。

还多！”他感叹道， “ 漫步 于这里比其他地方更放 松和有 趣。”至于店铺的设计，他表示“严格遵循了Creed的理 锈 钢条展现无穷的创造力。”如此充满美感的店铺为

Creed私人定制香氛创造出完美的环境。旗下的男香、 女香和中性香水都拥有大量拥趸，品牌还为温斯顿·丘 吉尔、剑桥 公爵夫人等名流定制过香水。 位于布雷拉大街上的手工香氛品牌 The Merchant of Venice（威 尼斯商人）可以追溯到17世 纪，当时 Vidal家族认为有必要创造 一个蕴含威 尼斯 独 globalblue.cn

PHOTO: © FRANCO PIZZOCHERO

念，浅灰色的柜子、晶莹剔透的水晶瓶、细长闪亮的不

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保险库和安全房 体现了Agresti惊人的创新能力。

82: Safe And Sound 安如磐石

房间根据 特别要求量身定制，无论 您身处何方，Agresti 的专家都会为您 上门组 装。房间内设有空调，为您的所

Agresti将 优雅 格调与实用功能融合在一起，带来至臻 豪华的创新存储解决方案。首席执行官 Paolo Agresti 向 Hannah Lewis讲述品牌的独特理念

有宝贵物品提 供专属 存储空间；除此之外，从娱乐设施

贵重物品需要安全保管，但在 追求万无一 失时，我们往

米兰、伦敦和莫斯科设有 旗舰店，并且准备在中国一重

往 就顾不上美 观了。然而，Agresti却能两者兼顾，该品

要地段开设一家新店。公司在世界 各地设有专卖店和店

牌将安全行业的最 新工具和技术与意大利顶级材料和

中店。品牌与建筑师和内饰设计师直接合作，您可以将

工艺相结合，打造出足以与任 何内饰设计相媲美的安全

Agresti的橱柜等产品无 缝融 入任 何新的装修项目。说 不定，某件 令人惊喜的 Agresti定制作品还会 给您带来

到满满的冰箱，房间应有尽 有，让您舒 适安心地等待救 援。 如果您有兴趣订购 Agresti的精美设计，该品牌 在

存储解决方案。 “我的父母在 1949年创建了Agresti家族企业。”

独特灵感。“我们曾定制过大型的抛光黑 檀木橱柜，内

首席执行官 Paolo Agresti介绍道。目前，他与妻子

含两个保险箱，其中一个带有防弹 玻璃。”他介绍道。这

Francesca共同管理公司。他的父母 Osvaldo和 Pia曾在

些柜子并 排陈列，用来存放腕表和珠宝，并受指 纹识别

一家皮革制品厂工作，他们年轻时便身怀抱负，不久便

的保 护。一位中国客户为一间密室定制了10只这样的箱

创办了自己的企业。“他们两个人都充满激情。”Agresti

子，难怪会 让 Agresti记忆深刻呢！

这样描述自己的父母。这份激情 让他们大获成功。最

无论 您想存放什么东西，Agresti一定不会 让您失

初，Agresti夫妇专心制作镶 金 边的二层小牛皮 盒子，那

望。访问米兰时，千万别忘了造访 Agresti旗舰店，探索

是一种传统的佛罗伦萨设计品。公司创立短 短数月之

这家意大利最专业、最奢华的品牌 之一。

后，他们已经有能力在佛罗伦萨市中心租下一间工作 室，并雇佣了第一批员工。 他们的生意发展得如火如荼。1966年，公司房屋遭 到了洪水破坏。于是 乎，他们在佛罗伦萨周边建造了新

134: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全 球，尊 享退税

的厂房，以适应不断扩大的生产需求。几十年来，虽然

Agresti的生意不断发展和变化，总部始 终 位于佛罗伦 萨郊区的斯坎 迪奇（Scandicci）。“所有产品都是在佛 罗伦萨的同一间厂房里生产的。”Agresti表示。他于 1980年加入了自家的家族企业。 Agresti的品牌理念从 未改变过，对佛罗伦萨精湛 技艺和优雅美学的专注追求延 续了近 70个年头。然 而，Agresti的产品种类已远超最初的几 款皮革盒。如 今，旗舰店中的产品更具创意：各种超现代、超豪华的

当您在全球顶级购物区中的 30多万家商店消费时，环 球 蓝联购物退税 服务（Global Blue Tax Free

Shopping）为您节省购物开销。 每年约有两千六百多万名旅客享用环 球蓝联（Global

Blue）的购物退税 服务，何不加入他们的行列？您只需 在购物时留意环 球蓝联（Global Blue）的蓝 星标志，或 直接问询商家是否提 供环 球蓝联（Global Blue）退税 服务，然后遵循以下简单的退税流程即可：

安全存储 设计，兼具优雅外形与实用功能。“多年来，我 们一直在研发奢华 存储概念，用以存放珠宝和腕

1. 购物消费

表。”Agresti如是说 道， “ 毫无疑问，真正让我们在全球

无论 您在哪里购物，请向商家索要环 球蓝联 退税表格

无可取代的是内置保险箱的珍贵木质橱柜— — 那是审

（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并 保存票据。

美与功能的完美结合。”

Agresti拥有一群高品位客户群体。他们既希望确

2. 申领退税

保 私人贵重物品的安全，又不想牺牲风 格与格

在您返程离境前，请前往海关柜台，出示 退税表格和相

调。Agresti设计的大衣 柜散 发着优雅 迷人的气息，由

关票据，获取海关印章，然后再到环 球蓝联的退税点领

佛罗伦萨工匠以珍贵木 材和皮革手工制成，镶 有 24k金

取 退税 款。

饰。打开内置的生物识别保险箱，可以看到各种 托 盘、 抽屉和隔间，适合安全存放手表、珠宝、文具等物品，并

联系方式：

可以根据客人的具体需求量身定制。“我们设计了一整 分或全面的改造。”Agresti表示。这些定制要求包括内

taxfree@ globalblue. com + 421 232 111 111 最低消费€ 154. 95即可申请 退税，能够节省高达 15. 5%

置瑞士手表 上链 盒、遥 控开关保险箱、连接至静音警报

的商品购买价。请注意：您收到的退税 款是增值税减去

的互动屏幕，以及最 新的保险库和安全房。除此之外，

环 球蓝联的手续费。如果您选择 现 金 退税，部分机场 还

还可以打造用于存放 极其贵重物品的暗格。

将以退税申请表为单位收取现 金 退税手续费。

套产品，但 越来越多的客人要求我们对高端橱柜 进行 部

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 64: The Power Of Partnership

Сила в сотрудничестве Молодые дизайнеры и знаменитые модельеры могут извлечь выгоду из совместного творчества. Патрик Кларк рассказывает о наиболее интересных коллаборациях Италии в этом сезоне Завидное положение Италии на международном календаре моды можно легко объяснить большим количеством домов моды. Неизменно растущее число молодых дизайнеров, проявляющих незаурядные способности к искусству моды, постоянно сталкивается с вопросом

globalblue.ru

самоутверждения на фоне предыдущих поколений. Одним из способов налаживания отношений между старым и молодым поколением, всемирно известным брендом и только появившимся является коллаборация. В сезоне осень-зима 2017/18 ряд дизайнеров решили принять участие в совместных творческих проектах, в то время как многие известные бренды решили их в этом поддержать, в результате чего на свет появились интересные и увлекательные коллекции. Для Джулио Коломбо, управляющего итальянского бренда одежды Colmar, коллаборации с молодыми дизайнерами помогают превзойти границы традиционного дизайна. В этом сезоне сотрудничество с Au Jour Le Jour, частью проекта Vogue Talents, позволило Colmar пересмотреть свои архивы, дополнив их инновационными идеями молодых талантов; дизайнеры Мирко Фонтана и Диего Маркез, ставшие основателями проекта Au Jour Le Jour в 2010 году, привнесли в капсульную коллекцию Colmar свои фирменные цветовые гаммы и оригинальные методы обработки ткани. По словам Коломбо, такого рода коллаборации «наилучшим образом могут поведать историю двух сторон бренда – первая представляет собой специальную технологию и максимальное ноу-хау в сфере спортивной одежды, а вторая – инновационный дух, дополняющий интерпретацию формы и цвета свежими нотками иронии». Проект Au Jour Le Jour известен использованием микропринтов, и для этой капсульной коллекции дизайнеры «переосмыслили фирменный пэтчворк Colmar и включили в дизайн мелкие буквы, отсылающие к последней тенденции использования логотипов», – говорит Коломбо. Он объясняет, что архивы Colmar послужили отправной точкой для молодых дизайнеров, которых заинтересовали куртки для бывших лыжных команд итальянской сборной. «Когда дизайнеры из AJLJ увидели наши архивы, то идея объединения нашего наследия и практичности с их стилем возникла сама собой. Диего и Мирко удалось идеально преобразить историю Colmar». Успешный итальянский Массимо Джиорджетти решил включить изделия Diadora в свой шоу-показ мужской одежды для

PHOTO: PAOLO SANTAMBROGIO

140

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PHOTO: © HENRIK BLOMQVIST

MSGM, таким образом в его коллекцию вошли фирменные кроссовки Diadora, спортивные штаны, шорты, кофты и футболки – все с оттенком повседневной спортивной одежды из 1990-х. В конце концов, спортивная одежда уже давно перестала нести лишь практичную функцию. Diadora была основана в 1948 году, и специализировалась на ботинках для походов; коллаборация, в основу которой легли обширные архивы компании, возродила увлекательный союз прет-а-порте и спортивной одежды и представила уникальную комбинацию фирменных логотипов и специальных тканей. Группа Swarovski Collective была основана в 1999 году, когда Надя Сваровски, Изабелла Блоу и Александр Маккуин решили объединить усилия для поддержки молодых дизайне-

ров. С тех пор более 150 дизайнеров приняли участие в совместных со Swarovski проектах. Перед ними ставят задачу интегрировать кристаллы бренда в свои творения, а взамен бренды получают годовую поддержку Swarovski. Миланская марка Vivetta, основанная Вивьеттой Понти в 2009 году, сочетает причудливые элементы в стиле ретро с яркими цветами и принтами. Работая с кристаллами Swarovski для осенне-зимней коллекции 2017/18, Понти вдохновилась радостной и эксцентричной атмосферой винтажного цирка. «Атмосфера ретро и сюрреализма всегда меня привлекала, поэтому вдохновения не пришлось долго ждать», – поясняет она. Вивьетта представила на Миланской Неделе моды полностью расшитый кристаллами образ из двух вещей. Венский дизайнер Артур Арбессер также продемонстрировал свои совместные со Swarovski Collective работы на Миланской Неделе моды. Строгие костюмы и изящные ткани, представленные Арбессером на Миланской Неделе моды в 2013 году, стали моментальным хитом. В этом сезоне источником его вдохновения послужил фильм Вима Вендерса «Небо над Берлином»; униформа в военном стиле была дополнена тонкими сверкающими полосками с кристаллами. «Практически весь фильм снят в черно-белом формате, поэтому мне специально хотелось выделить яркую палитру, – поясняет он. – Я представил себе, что мрачный черно-белый фильм на самом деле прячет от зрителя невероятные краски и графику». Сотрудничество со Swarovski второй сезон подряд предоставило Арбессеру возможность изучить «удивительное ноу-хау, мастерство и качество продукции Swarovski. С другой стороны, изделию можно придать новый, современный оттенок, если найти к нему уникальный и личный подход». Именно индивидуальный подход в коллаборационных проектах и обогащает дизайн. По словам Джулио Коломбо, это больше, чем просто «сумма двух слагаемых». В таком союзе всегда рождается нечто большее и более инновационное. Что может быть лучше, чем когда кто-то со стороны свежим взглядом оценивает твою работу и привносит в нее оживляющую искру? Это еще раз напоминает нам о простой истине, что одна голова хорошо, а две лучше.

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74: City Of Fragrance

Город ароматов

Итальянский центр моды завоевал себе репутацию новой парфюмерной столицы Европы. Бет Дрюс знакомится с лучшими предложениями Брера – миланского квартала духов Частные парфюмерии, некогда считавшиеся исключительно парижской реалией, нашли новую родину в миланском районе Брера. Этот бывший богемный квартал города, расположенный между оперным театром Ла Скала и академией изящных искусств Брера, переносит посетителей в 19 век – все благодаря неповторимому шарму старины. Ощущение того, что время здесь остановилось, стало причиной популярности района среди ряда знаменитых парфюмерий, открывших свои бутики в этой части Милана. Салон Creed – один из ярких тому примеров. Эта парфюмерная марка, основанная в 1760 году в Лондоне Джеймсом Генри Кридом, стала официальным поставщиком королевского двора Великобритании, а в середине 19 века ее новым домом стал Париж. Прошло более 150 лет с тех пор, как первый европейский магазин марки открылся за пределами Франции – на Via globalblue.ru

Madonnina в Милане. Его интерьер, созданный в стиле апартаментов, отражает инвестиции Creed в инновации и стиль. Разработкой концепции фирменного бутика в Милане занимался Сильвио Леви – ведущий специалист в области парфюмерии и основатель дистрибьютерского бренда Calé, а помогали ему в этом Оливер и Эрвин Криды, являющиеся потомственными парфюмерами династии Крид в шестом и седьмом поколениях. «На улицах Via Brera, Via Fiori Chiari и Via Madonnina сейчас расположено больше частных парфюмерных, чем во всем Париже!

– восклицает он. – Гулять по здешним улицам намного приятнее и интереснее, чем в других частях города». Говоря о дизайне фирменного магазина компании, он замечает: «Принципы Creed всегда оставались неизменными, а, чтобы подчеркнуть уникальность и креативность, полки были выкрашены в бледно-серый цвет, а столы с элементами из нержавеющей стали – в светло-серый». Эта эстетика стала идеальным фоном для Creed при создании ароматов; мужские, женские и универсальные парфюмы бренда пользуются культовым статусом, а сама компания прославилась тем, что создавала ароматы для самых высокопоставленных фигур: от Уинстона Черчилля до герцогини Кембриджской.

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PHOTO: IOPIUSTUDIO.COM

История Merchant of Venice, частной парфюмерии на Via Brera, прослеживается вплоть до 17 века, когда семейство Видал обнаружило потребность в роскошном бренде, который смог бы олицетворять венецианский дух. Фирменный бутик в Милане, открывшийся в 2016 году, имеет характерный интерьер в красно-черных тонах, напоминающий о венецианском прошлом компании. Его дизайнером выступил местный талант Пьер Луиджи Пицци, позднее переехавший в Венецию. «Созданный мной дизайн – это сочетание ностальгии по духу старинных аптек и современного контекста в виде практичных полок. Красный цвет Венеции – это яркий, доминантный элемент, гармонично дополняющий бренд в этом аристократическом пространстве», – поясняет Пицци.

Merchant of Venice предлагает богатый ассортимент парфюмов и туалетной воды, а дизайн фирменных флаконов столь же популярен, как и их наполнение. Коллекция Murano, вдохновленная искусством Венецианского стекла и отсылающая к путешествию из Италии на Восток, представлена в изящных флаконах из муранского стекла. Если Merchant of Venice и Creed предлагают знакомство лишь с продукцией их собственных брендов, то Campomarzio70 на Via Brera уже почти 100 лет дарит посетителям возможность открыть для себя лучшие парфюмы мира. В этом бутике можно найти интересную подборку наиболее знаменитых

марок, включая Acqua di Parma и Floris, современную классику Comme des Garçons и Byredo; и традиционные английские ароматы от Miller Harris и Penhaligon’s. Campomarzio70 имеет ряд магазинов в Европе и известен первоклассным обслуживанием, а бутик в Милане еще и отличается необычайным декором в оттенках лазурного и элегантным баром, где посетителям подают шампанское. И хотя все три бутика являются воплощением артизанской роскоши, на этом список отнюдь не заканчивается. Парфюмерный салон Profumo расположен в особняке, некогда принадлежавшем благородному семейству Беккариа. Мультибрендовый бутик Olfattorio Bar à Parfums будет идеальным местом для знакомства с целой серией ароматов, а салон Diptyque, чья атмосфера старины гармонично дополняет ландшафт, смотрится так, как будто ему уже несколько веков. Поскольку этот квартал все больше напоминает европейскую столицу парфюмерии, невольно задаешься вопросом, какие ароматы нас ждут в ближайшем будущем. Ответ нашелся у Сильвио Леви: «В последнее время много исследований сосредоточено на запахах, не существующих в природе: металлах, камнях, электричестве или лазере». Он также поделился своим видением грядущих ключевых нот сильной женственности: «сталь и цветы» и «алюминий и романтика». Если вас заинтриговало будущее парфюмерии, то ответы вы сможете найти на улочках Брера.

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82: Safe And Sound

В целости и сохранности Марка Agresti сочетает стиль и функциональность в своих роскошных решениях для хранения драгоценных вещей. Глава компании Паоло Агрести поведал Ханне Льюис об уникальной концепции бренда Все мы хотим, чтобы наши драгоценности всегда оставались целыми и невредимыми, поэтому, когда речь идет о безопасности, эстетика отходит на второй план. Но только не в случае с Agresti – брендом, сочетающим последние технологии в сфере безопастности и лучшие итальянские материалы и мастерство для создания первоклассных сейфов, шкафов и мебели, не уступающих по красоте изысканным предметам интерьера.

«Agresti – это семейный бизнес, который открыли мои родители в 1949 году», – поясняет генеральный директор бренда Паоло Агрести, globalblue.ru

управляющий компанией вместе со своей женой Франческой. Родители Агрести, Освальдо и Пиа, долгое время работали на кожевенном заводе, но дух предпринимательства не покидал их с самой молодости, и в результате они решили начать свое дело. «Их объединяла сильная мотивация», – рассказывает Агрести о своих родителях. Эта мотивация послужила ключом к быстрому успеху. В самом начале предприниматели занимались в основном шкатулками, отделанными телячьей кожей и позолоченными деталями в традиционном флорентийском стиле. Спустя всего несколько месяцев после основания компании у партнеров уже было достаточно средств на то, чтобы арендовать мастерскую в центре Флоренции и взять на работу дополнительный персонал. Бизнес достаточно быстро развивался, а когда наводнение 1966 года уничтожило все помещения, компания выстроила новый завод за чертой города. С течением времени марка Agresti росла и развивалась, но главный офис

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по-прежнему остается в Scandicci на окраине Флоренции. «Мы все производим здесь, во Флоренции, под одной крышей», говорит Агрести, присоединившийся к семейному бизнесу в 1980 году. Этика Agresti никогда не менялась, и акцент бренда на изящном флорентийском мастерстве и элегантной эстетике сопровождал его на протяжении почти 70 лет. Ассортимент продукции Agresti вышел далеко за пределы кожаных шкатулок. Сегодня изделия бренда отличаются современностью, роскошью и гармоничным сочетанием формы и практичности. «На протяжении нескольких лет мы разрабатывали концепцию роскошных решений для хранения драгоценностей и часов, – поясняет Агрести. – Что делает нашу продукцию по настоящему уникальной, так это шкафы из драгоценных пород дерева с сейфом внутри – прекрасное сочетание эстетики и функциональности».

Agresti наработал довольно большую клиентскую базу; среди нее люди, которые беспокоятся о сохранности своих драгоценностей, но не желают идти на компромисс со стилем.

Шкафы Agresti – это великолепные предметы интерьера, созданные вручную флорентийскими мастерами из ценных пород дерева и кожи в сочетании с деталями из золота 999 пробы. Биометрические сейфы имеют ряд ящиков и отделений, рассчитанных на безопасное хранение часов, украшений, ручек и других ценностей. При этом каждая модель может быть модифицирована по желанию покупателя. «У нас есть каталог всех доступных моделей, но все чаще покупатели просят частично или полностью изменить изделие под свои нужды», – отмечает Агрести. Услуги кастомизации включают среди прочего установку швейцарских механизмов для подзавода часов, пульты дистанционного управления для сейфов, интерактивные табло, синхронизированные с сигнализацией, а с недавних пор еще и комнаты-сейфы и специально оборудованные убежища. Здесь также можно заказать и секретные ящики для особо ценных вещей. Специально оборудованные комнаты демонстрируют высокий уровень творческого видения Agresti. Их создают по индивидуальным требованиям заказчика и могут установить в

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стекло», – говорит он. Эти шкафы предназначались для хранения часов и драгоценностей, а для дополнительной защиты на них была установлена система распознавания отпечатков пальцев. Неудивительно, что этот проект так запомнился Агрести, ведь целых 10 таких сейфов были установлены в секретной комнате одного из китайских клиентов компании. Независимо от того, какая задача перед вами стоит, у Agresti найдется для нее решение. Обязательно посетите флагманский магазин Agresti в Милане, чтобы познакомиться с одним из самых нишевых и роскошных итальянских брендов.

134: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free

любом месте, где бы он ни находился. Комнаты оборудованы кондиционерами, созданными по индивидуальному заказу шкафами для хранения ценностей, а также всем необходимым для комфортного пребывания во время ожидания помощи: от развлечений до заполненных холодильников. Если вам потребуется заказать одно из замечательных изделий Agresti, вы можете обратиться в один из флагманских бутиков бренда в Милане, Лондоне или Москве, кроме того, еще один магазин скоро должен открыться в Китае. Заказать услуги бренда можно также в ряде торговых точек, расположенных в разных странах мира. Agresti напрямую сотрудничает с архитекторами и дизайнерами интерьеров, которые без проблем смогут интегрировать необходимое вам решение в любой готовый или строящийся проект. Возможно, некоторые заказы, поступившие в Agresti, вдохновят вас на нечто подобное: «Однажды мы разрабатывали серию больших шкафов из черного дерева с двумя сейфами в каждом, причем в одном из них было установлено пуленепробиваемое globalblue.ru

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить Tax Free формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.95 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

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日本語 64: The Power Of Partnership コラボが引き出す新たな魅力

PHOTOS: CARLO SCARPATO

コラボレーションは若手デザイナーにとっても老 舗にとってもメリットがある。今シーズン最もエキ サイティングなイタリアのデザインコラボレーショ ンをパトリック・クラークが紹介する。 国際ファッションカレンダー上でミラノが目立った 位置を占めるのは、新進のファッションハウスが続 々登場しているからといっていい。才能ある若手デ ザイナーが台頭してくると、前世代に交じって世界 的に認められるためにどうするかという話になる。 新旧世代、世界的に有名なブランドと新ブランドの 関係を強める方法の一つが、デザインコラボレー ションだ。2017/18年の秋冬シーズンは、ミラノのと びきりエキサイティングなデザイナーたちがクリエ イティブ・パートナーシップを組んだり、有名ブラン ドが若手デザイナーに強力なサポートを提供した りして、どこを見ても楽しみなコレクションになって いる。 イタリアのアウターウェアブランド、コルマー

のCEOジュリオ・コロンボにとって、若手デザイナ ーとのコラボレーションは老舗のデザイン世界を 押し広げるもの。今シーズンは「ヴォーグ・タレン ト」プロジェクトの一貫としてオ・ジュール・ル・ジュ ールとパートナーシップを組み、コルマーのこれま でのデザインを参考にしつつ、若手コラボレーター の革新的デザインを取り入れた。2010年にオ・ジ ュール・ル・ジュールを創設したデザイナーのミル コ・フォンタナとディエゴ・マルケスは、コルマーの このカプセルコレクションに独特の色とファブリッ ク使いを持ち込んでいる。この種のコラボレーショ ンは「コルマーの二つのアイデンティティを最もよく 体現し、ブランドストーリーを語るものになり得る」 と、コロンボはいう。 「一つはスポーツウェアに関す るテクノロジーとこの上ない知識、もう一つはボリュ ームや色を改めて解釈する際に思いがけなく斬新 な見方を生み出せる革新精神です。」 オ・ジュール・ル・ジュールはウィットの効いた マイクロプリントで遊ぶことで知られるが、今回の カプセルコレクションでも「コルマーが愛するパッ チに手を加えたり、近頃のロゴブームを意識して極 大・極小のレタリングを使ったりしています。」コロ ンボによれば、若いデザイナーたちはコルマーのア ーカイブを出発点とし、例えばかつてイタリア代表

スキーチームが着たジャケットを参考にするなど したという。 「アーカイブの資料を見たオ・ジュー ル・ル・ジュールには、コルマーの伝統や実用性と 自分たちのスタイルをどう合体させるかがはっきり わかっていた。ディエゴとミルコはコルマーの歴史 にすんなりはまったのです。」 このほかミラノの人気デザイナー、 マッシモ・ジ ョルジェッティがMSGMのメンズウェアショーに ディアドラを使うことにし、ちょっと1990年代のア スレジャースタイルを思わせるディアドラブランド のスニーカーやトラックスーツパンツ、ショーツ、ス ウェットシャツ、Tシャツをコレクションに取り入れ た。アスレチックアパレルが純粋に機能を追求し ていた時代は、終わって久しいのだから。ディアド ラは1948年に職人が作るハイキングブーツのメー カーとして創立された。同社がこれまでに蓄積し た豊かな資料を参考にした今回のコラボでは、既 製服業界がスポーツウェアの魅力に改めて目覚 め、ロゴと機能性素材のユニークな組み合わせを ランウェイで披露した。

globalblue.com

一方、 「スワロフスキー・コレクティブ」は若手 デザイナーを支援したいと考えたナディア・スワロ フスキーとイザベラ・ブロウ、アレキサンダー・マッ クイーンが共同で1999年に立ち上げたもので、以 来、スワロフスキー・ブランドとコラボレーション したデザイナーは150人を超える。デザイナーはス ワロフスキーのクリスタルを使ってデザインをし、 同社から1年間サポートを受けるという仕組みの 企画だ。2009年にヴィヴェッタ・ポンティがミラノ で創設したヴィヴェッタは、気ままなレトロスタイ ルに大胆な色とプリントを組み合わせる。ポンテ ィは2017/18年秋冬のコレクションでスワロフスキ ーのクリスタルを使っているが、そのヒントとなっ たのはヴィンテージサーカスの楽しくて奇抜な雰 囲気だ。 「ヴィンテージやシュールレアリスムの雰 囲気が昔から好きでしたので、インスピレーショ ンが自然に湧いてきました」という。ヴィヴェッタ はミラノ・ファッションウィークのキャットウォーク で、クリスタルをいっぱいに散りばめたツーピース を披露している。 ウィーン生まれのデザイナー、アーサー・アル ベッセもミラノ・ファッションウィークでスワロフス キー・コレクティブの支援デザイナーとして作品を 発表している。アルベッセは、2013年のミラノ・フ ァッションウィークで初コレクションを披露した 際にすっきりしたテーラリングと洗練されたファブ リックがたちまち評判を呼んだ。今シーズンはヴィ ム・ヴェンダース監督の映画『ベルリン・天使の 詩』からインスピレーションを得て、軍服のような ユニフォームに小さなクリスタルを熱接着してき らめくピンストライプを施した。 「この映画はほぼ 全編モノクロで撮影されています。だから、僕は あえて強烈なカラーパレットを打ち出したかった」 という。 「地味な白黒映画だけれど、実は観客に 見えない派手な色や図柄が隠されているんだと 想像したんです。」スワロフスキーとのコラボはこ れで2シーズン目。アルベッセにとって、 「スワロフ スキーのような商品の素晴らしいノウハウや専門 技術、品質をじっくりと知ることができると同時 に、僕なりの独特な使い方をすることによって、そ の商品にモダンで斬新な魅力を加えることができ ます。」 コラボにこうしたパーソナルな要素があるか らこそ、デザインが豊かになる。ジュリオ・コロン ボが「1＋1の答えは2以上」というのはまさにこの ことで、より素敵で斬新なものが生まれるのだ。 ブランドに新たに活気を吹き込むには、アウトサ イダーの発想を取り入れるのが一番。時に手を携 えて歩むことの大切さは、コラボの結果が如実に 物語っている。

PHOTO: MARTINA FERRARA

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74: City Of Fragrance フレグランスの都 イタリアンファッションのメッカは、ヨーロッパの新 たな香りの都としても評判になっている。べス・ドゥ ルースがミラノでも香水店が多いブレラ界隈を探 検した。 手作り香水店といえばかつてはパリの専売特許だ ったが、今ではミラノのブレラ地区にも見られるよ うになった。スカラ座とブレラ美術館の間に位置 し、以前はボヘミアン的な雰囲気が漂っていたこ の地区を訪ねれば、歴史と芸術が香る19世紀の街 に足を踏み入れたような気がする。このタイムスリ ップしたような感覚が、ここにブティックをオープ ンする老舗フレグランスメーカーが増えている理由 の一つだ。 例えばクリード。1760年にジェイムズ・ヘンリ ー・クリードがロンドンで創設したこのブランド は、英国王室ご用達となり、その後19世紀半ばに パリへ移転する。それから150年以上を経て、ヨー ロッパではフランス国外初となるブティックをミラノ のマドンニーナ通りにオープンした。アパートメント に似せてデザインされたこの店のスペースには、ク リードが斬新さとスタイルにお金をかけていること が見てとれる。

ミラノにブティックを出すというアイデアを思 いついたのは、名門クリードの「鼻」である6代目 オリヴィエ・クリードと7代目アーウィン・クリー ド、香水芸術の第一人者でフレグランス販売店カ レの創業者でもあるシルヴィオ・レヴィだ。立地 をブレラとしたのはレヴィにとって当然の選択だ った。 「ブレラ通り、フィオーリ・キアーリ通り、マ ドンニーナ通りにはたくさんの手作り香水店が軒 を連ね、その数は今やパリ市全体より多いくらい なんですよ！歩いているとリラックスできて面白 い。こんな界隈は他のどこにもありません」とレヴ ィ。店舗デザインについては、 「クリードの規定は きっちり守りつつ、淡いグレーの棚と透明クリス タルの陳列箱を光沢ある長いステンレス棒で吊 ることでオリジナリティとクリエイティビティを表 現しました。」そんな美意識で作られた空間は、 個性を大切にするクリードの香水づくりには理想 的な環境だ。メンズ、ウィメンズ、ユニセックスの フレグランスがカルト的な人気を誇る同ブランド は、ウィンストン・チャーチルからケンブリッジ公 爵夫人まで有名人の香りを作ってきたことでも知 られる。 ブレラ通りにある手作り香水店「ザ・マーチ ャント・オブ・ヴェニス」の歴史は17世紀、ベネチ ア人独特の精神を体現した文化的な高級ブラン ドが必要と考えたヴィダル一族にまで遡

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かれたフレグランスを取り扱っている。カンポマル ツィオ70はヨーロッパのいくつかの国に店舗があ り、パーソナルなサービスで知られるが、特にミラ ノブティックはラピスラズリブルーのぜいたくな色 調の内装とエレガントなシャンペンバーが独特 だ。 これら3軒のブティックは手作りの贅沢の象 徴だが、他にも訪ねるべき店はたくさんある。ま ず、プロフーモは、かつて貴族のベッカーリア一族 が住んでいた広場にあるフレグランスブティック。 マルチブランドを扱うオルファットリオ・バーラ・パ ルファンは様々な香りを試してみるのにうってつけ のスペースだし、独特のヨーロッパ調インテリアが 何百年も前からここにあったかのように街にすん なり馴染むディプティックもある。 ミラノのブレラ地区がヨーロッパの香りの都 になりつつあるようだが、私たちは今後どんな香り をまとうのだろう。 「現在の研究は自然に存在しな い匂いが中心です。金属や石、電気、レーザーな どにヒントを得たフレグランスです」とレヴィはい う。また、女性らしさの主張も新たに求められる 要素だという。彼が予想するペアリングは「鋼と 花」、 「アルミとロマンチシズム」などだとか。フレ グランスの未来に興味が湧いただろうか。それな ら、ぜひブレラ地区を訪ねてみよう。 る。2016年にオープンしたミラノブティックは、ベ ネチアの伝統に敬意を表した独特の深紅の内装 が特徴だ。ブレラ生まれで後にベネチアへ移った 舞台デザイナー、ピエール・ルイジ・ピッツィが設 計した。 「昔の薬局の古典的な気品を醸しつつ、 機能的な棚の現代性と理想的な形で融合させた デザインです。この高貴な都市空間を支配するの は有彩色のベネチアレッドで、それがブランドを 引き立てています」と、ピッツィは説明する。 ザ・マーチャント・オブ・ヴェニスは高級なオ ードパルファムやオードトワレを取り揃え、フレグ ランスはもちろん凝ったデザインのボトルでも知 られる。ムラーノ島のベネチアングラスをインスピ レーションとする「ムラーノ」コレクションは、イタ リアからオリエントへの旅を思い起こさせ、美し く色付けされたムラーノガラスの瓶に入ってい る。 ザ・マーチャント・オブ・ヴェニスやクリード では単一ブランドをあれこれ堪能できるが、一 方、ブレラ通りにあるカンポマルツィオ70は100 年近く前から世界のとっておきの香りを集めてき た店だ。アクア・ディ・パルマ、フローリスといった 老舗ブランドからコム・デ・ギャルソン、バレード といったモダンクラシック、いかにも英国らしいミ ラー・ハリスやペンハリゴンまで、慎重に選び抜 globalblue.com

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82: Safe And Sound 麗しき鉄壁の守り アグレスティはスタイルと機能を併せ持ついかにも 贅沢な革新的収納ソリューションを提供してい る。CEOのパオロ・アグレスティが、同ブランドのユ ニークなコンセプトをハンナ・ルイスに語った。 誰しも貴重品は安全に保管したいもの。ただ、究極 のセキュリティを確保しようとするあまり、見た目の 美しさは二の次になりがちだ。ところが、アグレステ ィは違う。セキュリティ界の最新ツールやテクノロジ ーに最高級のイタリア素材と職人技を合わせ、イン テリアのように美しい安全収納を実現するブランド だ。 「アグレスティは1949年に私の両親が始めたビ ジネスで、家族で経営しています」と、現在、妻フラ ンチェスカと共に舵を握るCEOのパオロ・アグレス ティが説明してくれた。彼の父母オズヴァルドとピア は革製品の工場で働いていたが、若い頃から起業 家精神が旺盛で、まもなく自分たちのビジネスを始 めた。 「二人ともやる気満々でした」とアグレスティ。 そのやる気が実を結び、事業は急速に成長する。当 初の主力商品は、子牛のスプリットレザー（床革） を使いゴールドのトリミングを施したフィレンツェの 伝統的デザインの革箱だった。二人は会社を設立し てわずか数か月のうちにフィレンツェの中心街に工

房を借り、はじめてスタッフを雇い入れる。 ビジネスはみるみる成長。1966年の洪水で工 房が破壊されたが、フィレンツェ郊外に工場を新設 して高まるニーズに対応した。アグレスティは増産を 重ね、製品も年を経て変化したが、今もフィレンツェ 郊外のスカンディッチを本拠としている。 「何から何 までフィレンツェの工場の一つ屋根の下で製造して います」と、1980年に家業に入ったアグレスティはい う。 アグレスティの精神は決して変わらず、フィレン ツェの優れた職人技とエレガントな美意識を重ん じている。だからこそ、70年近くも続いてきたのだ。 一方、商品の幅は広がり、第1号の革箱から進化し て実に豊かな品揃えになっている。今日の主力商品 は極めて革新的で、形状と機能のバランスがとれた 超モダン、超贅沢、かつ安全な収納ソリューション だ。 「ジュエリー・時計用高級収納ケースという概 念を、何年もかけて開発してきました」とアグレステ ィ。 「世界でも当社ならではといえば、やはり金庫を 内蔵した銘木製キャビネットですね。美しさと機能 性を兼ね備えた逸品です。」 アグレスティのクライアントは目が肥えている。 貴重品の安全確保はもちろんだが、スタイルでも妥 協はしない洗練された顧客だ。アグレスティのキャ ビネットは高級な木材と革を用い、金具は24金製 と、それ自体が美しいデザイン作品。内蔵された生 体認証方式の金庫には様々なトレイや引き出し、コ

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ィングな作品を紹介しよう。きっと、あなたのプロジ ェクトのインスピレーションになるだろう。 「磨いた 黒檀製のカスタムメードの大型キャビネットで、それ ぞれに金庫が二つ、うち一つは防弾ガラス入りとい うのを作ったことがあります。」それらのケースは時 計とジュエリーの収納用に裏地が施され、指紋認 証システムで保護されている。中国のクライアント一 人のためにこのキャビネットを10基作って隠し部屋 に設置したというから、このプロジェクトがアグレス ティの印象に残っているのも不思議はない。 何をしまうにしても、アグレスティならソリューシ ョンが見つかる。ミラノを訪ねた際はアグレスティの 旗艦店を訪ねて、イタリアで最もニッチで贅沢なブ ランドをその眼で見てもらいたい。

134: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税に

ンパートメントがあって、時計やジュエリー、ペンな どを安全にしまえるようになっている。しかも、クラ イアントそれぞれのニーズに合わせてカスタマイズ 可能。 「ご利用いただけるアイテムを豊富に取り揃 えていますが、高額なキャビネットは一部改造また は全面改造を頼まれることが増えていますね。」カ スタマイズのオプションは、内蔵型のスイス製ウォッ チワインダーやリモコンで開く金庫、サイレントアラ ームにリンクしたインタラクティブ画面など。さらに 最近では金庫室やパニックルームの注文も可能だ。 最も高価な貴重品用に隠し収納コンパートメントも 用意できる。 金庫室やパニックルームには、アグレスティの 実に創造性豊かなビジョンが見てとれる。厳密な仕 様で作られ、世界中どこでも同ブランドのエキスパ ートによって組み立てられるこれらの部屋は空調を 完備し、あらゆる貴重品をしまえる誂えの収納スペ ースを具備しているほか、エンターテイメント設備か ら食品冷蔵庫まで、支援が到着するまでの時間を 快適に過ごすために必要になるかもしれないあら ゆるものが揃っている。 アグレスティの素晴らしい製品を注文すること に関心があるなら、旗艦店がミラノ、ロンドン、モス クワにあるし、中国の主要都市にもまもなく店舗が オープンする予定だ。さらに、アグレスティコーナー やインショップも世界各地に設置されている。同ブ ランドは建築家やインテリアデザイナーと直接連携 する。つまり、アグレスティのキャビネット他の製品 をどんな新プロジェクトにもシームレスに組み入れ ることが可能なのだ。アグレスティの最もエキサイテ globalblue.com

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利 用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街 にある30万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得 になります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用くださ い。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を 探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グロー バル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のス テップを踏むだけです。 1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免 税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってく ださい。 2. 還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にス タンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの 還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。 お問い合わせ： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.95以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最 高15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い 戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数 料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承 ください。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しを ご希望の場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免税書類 ごとに課されます。

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a family business, creates unique jewellery using its long-standing expertise and outstanding craftsmanship. fm Pasquale Bruni earrings, price on request, Pasquale Bruni, Via della Spiga 6A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 784118, pasqualebruni.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 117

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