SHOP Milan AW18

MILAN | 米兰 | МИЛАН | ミラノ

MILAN Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2018/19

DISCOVER MILAN: our insiders’ guide reveals the best of Italy’s most fashionable city

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EDITOR’S LETTER

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Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of the city known as Italy’s fashion hub. Milan has much to offer, as you’ll discover in our guide on page 84. Don’t miss our feature on Italy’s most covetable footwear (page 58), our round-up of the leading fashion brands championing female power this season (page 68) and our exclusive interview with principled king of cashmere Brunello Cucinelli (page 74).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to the most prestigious destinations across Europe and Asia.

Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Milan. For the very latest information, scan the QR code on this page to head straight to our website, globalblue.com, to find everything you need to navigate the best shopping destinations on earth.

For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the SHOP TAX FREE app – calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.

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Welcome to Milan

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CONTRIBUTORS

LUCINDA TURNER Lucinda Turner, SHOP’s acting fashion editor, studied linguistics at Queen Mary University of London before pursuing a career in publishing. Since graduating she has worked in the fashion departments of several titles, including Tatler, Condé Nast Brides and Marie Claire. globalblue.com

GINGER ROSE CLARK Ginger Rose Clark, the editor of SHOP’s news pages, holds an MA in fashion journalism from the London College of Fashion.

Before Ginger joined SHOP, she worked as a fashion stylist and also wrote for a number of publications, print and online.

HANNAH LEWIS SHOP’s features editor Hannah Lewis holds degrees from the University of Oxford and the London College of Fashion. She has written for a number of international publications, including Time Out in Dubai, Quintessentially in London and Prestige in Hong Kong.

ILLUSTRATION: RUI RICARDO – FOLIO ART; PHOTO: (RIGHT) LAURIE EDWARDS

RUI RICARDO Rui Ricardo created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Milan. His elegant style is perfectly showcased in this graceful image of a woman holding out the skirts of a glamorous evening dress, revealing the interior of one of Milan’s oldest and best-loved opera houses. His artwork has previously been commissioned by the Wall Street Journal, British Airways and Esquire magazine, among other clients.

Discover SHOP Milan and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

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SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L

PUBLISHING

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Acting deputy editor Ruairidh Pritchard Cover illustrator Rui Ricardo – Folio Art Contributors Virginie Morawski Production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese production editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editors Yangzi Liang, Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Acting Russian editor Gary Ramazanov Russian communications assistant Elizaveta Kolesnikova Russian translator Teena Garnik Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto

News editor Ginger Rose Clark

Print Dane Consultancy

Associate fashion and lifestyle editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Jo Walker Assistant picture editor Mónica R Goya Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Hayley Moseley Artworker Onur Unaltay Artworking assistant Tatjiana Antoniou Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Acting online managing editor Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener

Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production coordinator Inga Abramian Studio production assistants Chris Bigg, Joanna Dodge Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital data strategist Dian Liu Digital analyst intern Yunrong Kang Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Web developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer Digital production assistant Linda Hau

G LO B A L B L U E I TA LY Managing director Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales manager Denise Bolandrina Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Marketing executive Laura Gallo Marketing coordinator Alberta Reinach Partner relationship manager Antonella Bertossi Head of key accounts Stefano Cardinale Head of accounts Marco Cavalli Key account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Marco Savino Account managers Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Laura Durante, Giorgia Faro, Attilio Fioritti, Gabriele Giuntini, Davide Grechi Diana Martin, Elisa Narducci, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Vincenzo Saponara, Giordano Senzacqua, Laura Vitale Sellout team Erika Bordoni, Claudia D’Alessandro, Grazie Di Clemente, Livia Gargelli, Marta Miserendino Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2018 Global Blue

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CONTENTS

20

22

36

Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Milan this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of Milan’s best dressed

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74

NEWS 38

40

54

40

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Milan News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products In Store … … with Patrizia Bambi at Patrizia Pepe on Via Alessandro Manzoni

FEATURES 58

68

74

A Gentle Touch Brunello Cucinelli’s cashmere company is founded on humanist principles. The Italian designer tells Ginger Rose Clark about his revolutionary approach to the business of fashion

68

The Art Of The Shoe What is it about the Made in Italy label that sets footwear fans’ hearts racing? One small town may hold the answers, as Lucinda Turner discovers Fierce Femininity This season, Milan’s leading designers explore the concept of female power in the modern age.

Hannah Lewis reports

Above (clockwise from top left): Stuart Weitzman; Brunello Cucinelli; Roberto Cavalli, all autumn/winter 2018/19; the stylish new Aquazzura flagship on Via Sant’Andrea

PHOTOS: (BOTTOM LEFT) © FRANCISCO DE ALMEIDA DIAS; (BOTTOM RIGHT) © GORUNWAY.COM

PRODUCTS

MILANO CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE CORSO XXII MARZO 4 CITY LIFE SHOPPING DISTRICT P.ZZA TRE TORRI 1 CENTRO COMM. CARREFOUR MILANOFIORI ASSAGO

MARELL A.COM

L.A. STORIES GRACE HARTZEL

CONTENTS EXPERIENCE 80

Café Society Discover the best sweet treats in Milan at Virginie Morawski’s selection of the city’s top pastry shops

MILAN GUIDE 84

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Milan

ESSENTIALS 114 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS 116 美文翻 译 120 Русский Перевод 125 日本語翻訳

SOUVENIR 130 The essential item to bring home

81

ENG LISH | РУ С СК И Й | 中 文

VISIT US ONLINE...

Visit globalblue.com, our recently relaunched website, for the latest luxury shopping and travel stories, updated daily Погрузитесь в мир роскошного шоппинга и увлекательных путешествий, посетив наш обновлённый сайт – globalblue.ru

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Above: the enticing interior of the Marchesi 1824 pasticceria

PHOTO: (RIGHT) MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

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CHECK OUT

STRIKING SERPENTI Heritage Italian jeweller and accessories brand Bulgari was founded in 1884 and has been the epitome of Italian glamour ever since. For autumn/winter 2018/19 the brand updates its classic Serpenti Forever style with the PopCorn print, an eye-catching motif inspired by bold, geometric patterns from its 1970s archive. Crafted in python skin, the navy and white design is hand-painted and can take over two days to produce. The elegant model Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

features a top handle and cross-body strap, allowing for practical everyday wear, while the statement aesthetic adds an original note to an understated outfit. lt Bulgari Serpenti Forever bag, ₏3,400, Bulgari, Via della Spiga/Via Sant’Andrea, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777001, bulgari.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 99

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Van Cleef & Arpels earrings, €10,800, Van Cleef & Arpels, Via Montenapoleone 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 776 7951, vancleefarpels.com

Marco Bicego earrings, €5,810, Marco Bicego, Via della Spiga 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 9122 0010, marcobicego.com

MAKE A

STATEMENT Bold earrings are big news for autumn/winter 2018/19; keep yours modern, gold and supersized.

Roberto Coin earrings, €3,400, Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, robertocoin.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

Buccellati earrings, €3,760, Buccellati, Via Montenapoleone 23, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2154, buccellati.com

Tiffany earrings, €2,400, Tiffany & Co, Piazza del Duomo/Via Ugo Foscolo 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8909 4202, tiffany.com

MILANO C.so V. Emanuele

C.so Vercelli, 35

Galleria V. Emanuele, 69 C.so Buenos Aires, 39

C.so Genova, 20 C.so XXII Marzo, 5

(angolo Galleria S. Carlo)

24 | P R O D U C T S

Salvatore Ferragamo bag, €1,690, Salvatore Ferragamo, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0054, ferragamo.com

Céline bag, €1,600, Céline, Via Montenapoleone 25/2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7788 5900, celine.com

RED ALERT

Embrace autumn’s favourite colour with a new-season bag that’s sure to turn heads Louis Vuitton bag, €980, Louis Vuitton, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7214 7011, louisvuitton.com

Saint Laurent bag, €1,990, Saint Laurent, Via Sant’Andrea 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0573, ysl.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

Tod’s bag, €725, Tod’s, Via della Spiga 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2423, tods.com

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Sportmax bag, €500, Sportmax, Via della Spiga 20, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 1944, sportmax.com

Chloé bag, €1,250, Chloé, Via della Spiga 30, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3035 7401, chloe.com

Jil Sander bag, €950, Jil Sander, Via Pietro Verri 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 2991, jilsander.com

Dolce & Gabbana bag, €895, Dolce & Gabbana, Via della Spiga 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 795747, dolcegabbana.com

Lanvin bag, €995, Lanvin, Via della Spiga 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 9768 7091, lanvin.com

Alexander McQueen bag, €1,690, Alexander McQueen, Via Pietro Verri 8, 20121 Milan,+39 02 7600 3374, alexandermcqueen.com

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WALK ON THE

WILD SIDE

Shake up your traditional black winter boots with a daring animal-print twist

Stuart Weitzman boots, €798, Stuart Weitzman, Via Sant’Andrea 10A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3653 7260, stuartweitzman.com

Giuseppe Zanotti boots, €975, Giuseppe Zanotti, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0759, giuseppezanotti.com

Manolo Blahnik boots, €1,575, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, manoloblahnik.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

Sandro boots, €375, Sandro, Via Bigli 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7634 1398, sandro-paris.com

PHOTO: (SANDRO) FRED@FREDFURGOL.COM

Giambattista Valli boots, €1,014, Giambattista Valli, Via Sant’Andrea 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 780218, giambattistavalli.com

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Woolrich hat, €165, Woolrich, Corso Venezia 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8688 7600, woolrich.eu

SHADES OF PALE

Opt for neutral tones and the most luxurious of fabrics for a stylish look this season Cos jumper, €150, Cos, Corso Venezia 5, 20121 Milan, +39 06 3283 2702, cosstores.com

Boss trousers, €190, Boss, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 4667, hugoboss.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

Ermanno Scervino bag, €1,290, Gio Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3186, ermannoscervino.it

Santoni boots, €1,250, Santoni, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0508, santonishoes.com

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Pomellato ring, €13,000, Pomellato, Via San Pietro all’Orto 17, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6086, pomellato.com

Atelier Swarovski by Tabitha Simmons bracelet, €499, Swarovski, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 15, 20122 Milan, +39 02 780722, atelierswarovski.com

JEWEL TONES

Jimmy Choo shoes, €750, Jimmy Choo, Via Sant’Andrea 1A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4548 1770, jimmychoo.com

Escada dress, €1,299, Escada, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0753, escada.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

Longchamp bag, €350, Longchamp, Via della Spiga 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8493 2705, longchamp.com

PHOTOS: (BRACELET) CHRIS LINTON; (SHOES) KAREN BENGALL PHOTOGRAHY; (BAG) © CHRISTOPHE PETITEAU

Let deep teal, warm plum and bold aquamarine guide your after-dark wardrobe this season

32 | P R O D U C T S

Breitling watch, €8,150, Pisa Orologeria, Via Pietro Verri 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 762081, breitling.com

Loro Piana scarf, €900, Loro Piana, Via Montenapoleone 27, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 2901, loropiana.com

Corneliani bag, €1,410, Corneliani, Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7955, corneliani.com

MILITARY PRECISION

Belstaff coat, €1,295, Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, belstaff.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

Alberto Guardiani boots, €450, Alberto Guardiani, Corso Venezia 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1697, albertoguardiani.com

PHOTO: (WATCH) KEYSTONE

Choose khaki and shades of brown to give your new season look an edge that’s on trend yet tough

SHOWROOM - MILANO - Corso Vittorio Emanuele 22 - Tel. +39 02 76341350 FLAGSHIP STORE - MILANO - Via Manzoni 19 - T. +39 02 72022800

34 | P R O D U C T S

IWC Schaffhausen watch, €8,195, IWC Schaffhausen, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8962 3901, iwc.com

Tag Heuer watch, €4,100, Cielo 1914, Piazza del Duomo 19, 20121 Milan, +39 02 874010, tagheuer.com

Omega watch, €4,600, Omega, Via Montenapoleone 9, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0984, omegawatches.com

ABOUT TIME

Longines watch, €890, Longines at Rinascente, Via Santa Radegonda 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 885 2259, longines.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

Rolex watch, €11,700, Pisa Orologeria, Via Pietro Verri 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 762081, rolex.com

Audemars Piguet watch, €62,900, Audemars Piguet, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3115, audemarspiguet.com

PHOTO: (ROLEX) © ROLEX/ALAIN COSTA

Sharpen up your horological game this season with a smart steel watch and pick a blue dial to add a touch of colour

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INFLUENCER & ENTREPRENEUR

Milano Via San Pietro all’Orto 11 Milano Linate Airport Samsonite is a registered trademark of Samsonite IP Holdings S.àR.L. ©2018 Samsonite IP Holdings S.àR.L All rights reserved.

STREET STYLE

Checks and bold coats are the order of the day for men in Milan this season.

While a neutral palette reigns supreme, there is still plenty of scope for the flash of a label or two from Italian favourites such as Fendi and Gucci

PHOTOS: © MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

S H O P | 37

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SHOP WINDOW

Earlier this year, V-Grass opened a new store on one of Milan’s principal shopping streets; it becomes the first European boutique for the Asian label, which has over 250 stores in China and Korea. Bringing together Eastern and Western aesthetics, this latest V-Grass venture focuses on Italian-made pieces for all occasions.

The V-Grass Milano collection, created specifically for the store, is designed by the local team at the brand’s Italian headquarters Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

on Corso Venezia. Visit this recent addition to Via della Spiga to shop the brand’s desirable pieces for autumn/winter, including elegant dresses and the finest knitwear. grc V-Grass, Via della Spiga 30, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8718 6660, v-grass.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 99

PHOTO: GUIDO BARBAGELATA

EAST MEETS WEST

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PINK PALACE Luxury Italian footwear brand Aquazzura has opened a new flagship store in Milan. Located in the heart of the city’s fashion district, the boutique is a refined reflection of the brand’s elegant aesthetic. The décor evokes the glamour of the 1970s, with plush velvet furniture, grey marble floor and an impeccably crafted Murano glass chandelier. The pale pink colour scheme is complemented by a monochrome-striped ceiling and a feature wall decorated with metallic scales which evoke Aquazzura’s signature golden pineapple motif.

The boutique will offer the latest collections as well as signature styles and tailor-made services. In keeping with quintessential Milanese bravura, at the Milan flagship Aquazzura ensures an Instagram-friendly backdrop for your footwear purchases. rre Aquazzura, Via Sant’Andrea 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8352 0312, aquazzura.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 96

For autumn/winter 2018/19, Swiss brand Bally decided to go back to basics, focusing on impeccably made shoes, leather goods and sports-luxe clothing. While its native Switzerland provides the influence for shearling-lined padded jackets and archival logos, Milan has breathed new life into the label. Bally recently opened new offices in the city, in a building that was previously a cinema and, before that, a theatre. The heroes and heroines of the silver screen have certainly cast a spell on the latest collection, with 1970s-inspired silhouettes and a vintage palette of dusty rose and ochre offered for both women and men. When we went to press, the Bally store on Via Montenapoleone was being renovated; the store’s temporary address is on Via Pietro Verri (see below). lt Bally, Via Pietro Verri 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8406, bally.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 96 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

PHOTOS: (TOP) © FRANCISCO DE ALMEIDA DIAS; (BOTTOM) © BALLY

BACK TO BASICS

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STUDIO OF SPEED Porsche and Porsche Design have come together to unite their respective worlds in one space: the new Porsche Studio. Opened in June 2018, the new store brings together Porsche vehicles with the lifestyle collection offered by Porsche Design on Via della Spiga, in the heart of Milan. Store highlights include an exhibition vehicle, regular events and a heritage wall that allows you to learn about the 70-year history of

the sports car brand. Visitors can arrange test drives, personalise a car model or finalise a deal, as well as being able to shop the full Porsche Design portfolio, which includes fashion, sportswear, timepieces, luggage, eyewear and audio. grc Porsche Studio, Via della Spiga 42, 20121 Milan, porsche-design.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 99

Back in the 1970s, Bottega Veneta’s motto was ‘When Your Own Initials Are Enough’, alluding to its distaste for flashy branding in favour of the simplicity of a monogram. This year, in a move that honours its roots, the brand launches a new personalisation service.

Available across a range of men’s and women’s products, including bags, small leather goods and notebooks, the service offers complimentary embossing and stamping, as well as a premium stitching option, all allowing customers to truly make each Bottega Veneta purchase their own. lt Bottega Veneta, Via Sant’Andrea 15, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7787 8115, bottegaveneta.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 96 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

PHOTOS: (TOP) STEFANIA M. D’ALESSANDRO/2018 GETTY IMAGES; (BOTTOM) © DAN & CORINA LECCA

MAKE IT PERSONAL

ixosofficial.com

MILANO

C.so Genova

MILANO

C.so Como ORIOCENTER

ORIO AL SERIO Via Toscana

FIRENZE

Via Porta Rossa

ROMA

Via della Croce

CIVITANOVA MARCHE C.so Umberto I

44 | N E W S

21ST-CENTURY TAILORING This season, Brioni’s first female creative director Nina-Maria Nitsche, formerly of Maison Martin Margiela, brings a fresh perspective to men’s ready-to-wear at the label: the autumn/winter 2018/19 collection offers sartorial style to the modern man about town. Respecting Brioni’s revered tailoring DNA but adding a contemporary twist, Nitsche has updated key menswear staples for the 21st century. The classic tuxedo is given a double breast and reinterpreted in a shade of rich brown, a nylon puffer undercoat is transformed by the use of lighter leather, and cashmere replaces the lambswool felt of a peacoat. Exquisite accessories round out the offering. With looks made for travel, daytime and after dark, this season’s collection keeps the Brioni traditions close while driving the brand forward with the utmost poise. rre Brioni, Via Gesù 2A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 0086, brioni.com

IN BRIEF This summer Delvaux opened its first boutique in Milan. The luxury Belgian brand chose the picturesque Palazzo Reina on Via Bagutta as the location to showcase its beautiful bags

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 96

Green Bubble and No Rules, the latest fragrances from Jusbox, would make imaginative souvenirs of your trip to Milan. In keeping with the brand’s mission to create fragrances inspired by music, the latter of the two creations is a fitting homage to punk rock. No Rules (78ml, €160) was created by perfumer Antoine Lie, who opted for a base of leather mixed with metal notes reminiscent of the safety pins and jacket studs that symbolise the anarchic musical movement. Lavender sits at the heart of the fragrance, a wistful tribute to punk rock’s British origins. Green Bubble, in contrast, is an eau de parfum dedicated to reggae. Whatever your musical tastes, these scents will bring harmony to your dressing table. grc

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, jusboxperfumes.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 104

PHOTO: (TOP) ANNE SCHOENHARTISN

HARMONIOUS SCENTS

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A FAMILY AFFAIR For the Trussardi Jeans women’s collection this season, creative director Gaia Trussardi injects her signature contemporary urban aesthetic with references to her childhood, in particular her family home. A dash of 1970s style runs throughout, both in the rich autumnal colour scheme and via flared jeans, fleece-edged leather jackets and fringing. Florals are inspired by the eponymous family’s beautiful garden, while the Trussardi Jeans logo adds a graphic edge to standout accessories. The men’s collection also features this emblem, on blazers that capture the brand’s signature preppy style, and also on relaxed sweatshirts and a rock music-inspired leather jacket. Men should be sure to explore the label’s outerwear this season; edgy and modern, it retains the smart-casual cool that Trussardi Jeans is known for. hl Trussardi Jeans, Galleria San Carlo/Corso Europa 6, 20122 Milan, +39 02 783909, trussardi.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 93

QUALITY TIME Officine Panerai unveiled a range of beautiful timepieces in 2018, including various new versions of its thinnest watch, the Luminor Due. As well as the option of a 42mm or new 38mm case diameter, the Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic comes in a choice of colours, dials and straps. Those looking for a slightly weightier style should draw their attention to two additional models that boast a 45mm case. The pictured Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic Acciaio 38mm (€5,900) features an ivory dial, luminous dot markers and blue numerals, completed by a blue leather strap with a saffiano finish. Like the other models in the collection, this style also sees the introduction of a useful date window. grc Officine Panerai, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3600 0008, panerai.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 98

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

48 | N E W S

TOP TOURS Enhance your trip to Milan with city tour specialist Zani Viaggi, which offers coach trips that take in the best of Milan’s culture, art and fashion, as well as shopping tours to some of Italy’s finest outlets. Services run from the city centre to shopping villages which showcase designer brands at discount prices. Destinations include Serravalle Designer Outlet, the largest outlet in Europe; Il Centro; Franciacorta Outlet

Village; Scalo Milano; and Vicolungo The Style Outlets. Zani Viaggi can also take you across the border into Switzerland, to the FoxTown stores. Wherever you decide to go, Zani Viaggi will ensure you travel in style. sm Zani Viaggi, Milan Visitor Center, Largo Cairoli 18 (city centre) and Milano Centrale station, Ground Level, 20100 Milan, +39 02 867131, zaniviaggi.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 102

This year Vhernier celebrates the 20th anniversary of one of its best-known jewellery pieces: the Calla necklace. To mark the occasion, the Milanese company is unveiling new versions of this famously sculptural piece. When it was created, the Calla stood out for its unusual use of materials – ebony in particular – and the commemorative designs continue to play with materials and colour. In one of the updated versions, the necklace features lapis lazuli, while the pictured design pairs ebony and diamonds in a uniquely captivating combination. Vhernier has used Calla as an opportunity to introduce its New Mistery pavé technique – diamonds of different sizes are set without prongs in eyecatchingly irregular constellations. grc Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

Vhernier, Via Montenapoleone 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7733 1560, vhernier.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 98

PHOTO: (TOP) ANDREA OFFREDI

20 YEARS OF CALLA

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INFINITELY STYLISH Ottod’ame has opened its second boutique in Milan. Located in the Brera district, a bohemian neighbourhood known for its connections to the art world, the Italian brand’s new flagship has a similarly relaxed and quirky vibe. The store, decorated in pink and sandy tones with gold accents, resembles a well-curated studio space. The Ottod’ame collections take retro prints and silhouettes

and style them in a modern way, while never sacrificing quality: sumptuous, tactile materials can be found across cosy knits, midi-dresses and structural bags. Ottod’ame is the Italian for ‘eight women’ and the number eight has become a powerful motif for the brand: its logo is the infinity symbol, which resembles a rotated figure eight. fm Ottod’ame, Via Solferino 1, Milan, +39 02 6379 3729, ottodame.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 106

This season, Camper takes inspiration from the supernatural to create a unique footwear collection.

The brand’s shoes feature design elements inspired by the great outdoors, incorporating fluorescent shades for a contemporary, urban twist. Always keen to keep pushing boundaries, the brand showcases innovative techniques in hybrid models such as trainers with a hiking-boot look (pictured, €250) and lace-ups with an integrated galosh effect, perfect for

the winter months. Founded on the Spanish island of Mallorca, Camper draws upon a long history of shoemaking when producing its striking modern designs. grc

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Camper, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 799015, camper.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 98

PHOTO: (TOP) OTTO D’AME

STEP FORWARD

AMERICAN SOUL SINCE 1830 WOOLRICH STORE MILANO - CORSO VENEZIA 3 WOOLRICH.COM

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A MOVE TO THE COUNTRY Scandinavian brands are known for their ability to mix the functional with the beautiful, and the latest womenswear collection from Swedish catwalk label Acne Studios is the perfect example of this. Creative director Jonny Johansson was inspired by creatives who move from the city to the countryside; his collection is an imagining of their wardrobe, a balance of romance and practicality. Layering was key on the catwalk, where Johansson combined loose shapes, delicate fabrics, pleats and florals with appliqué pieces, creating a comfortable yet highly feminine look. Styling highlighted the versatility of the pieces. A light trench coat in a soft red-orange shade of rust would be perfect for autumn or even spring, yet layered over a polo neck and topped with a thick, striped, oversized scarf it becomes winter attire. Artistic yet wearable is a tricky balance to achieve, but Acne Studios makes it look effortless. hl Acne Studios, Piazza del Carmine 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8410 2383, acnestudios.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 106

AN EXPLOSIVE COMBINATION Inspired by the modern woman who travels between different urban jungles in winter, Mr & Mrs Italy presents the bomber parka. Designed by Londonbased Italian creative Antonio Berardi, the pictured two-tone hybrid jacket (€2,200) has embellished jacquard stamp-style patches and studded branding, blending his refined roots with the edginess of his current home. The jacket combines the practicality of Mr & Mrs Italy’s classic parka – loved by Rihanna and Cara Delevingne – with the bold attitude of a bomber, making it perfect for city life. Contrasting vintage cotton canvas fabric with nylon, the coat is a statement piece that is greater than the sum of its parts. rre

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Mr & Mrs Italy, Via Bagutta 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 2111 8953, mmi.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 96

LUXURY FURS

fabiogavazzi.it | Montenapoleone 21, Milano

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IN STORE: PATRIZIA PEPE Patrizia Pepe is a mainstay for the modern woman. Its elegant, feminine designs have been prominent on the Italian fashion scene since the brand was founded in Florence in 1993 and, with the introduction of menswear in 2005 and childrenswear in 2007, it has since gone from strength to strength. Lucinda Turner caught up with co-founder and creative director Patrizia Bambi to discuss style, glitter sneakers and collaborations with global stars

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long with my innate passion for fashion and drive for creativity, the inspiration behind Patrizia Pepe is the female universe, which inspires my work every day,’ co-founder and creative director Patrizia Bambi remarks. ‘Patrizia Pepe is a mix of style and attitude designed to make you always feel at ease and comfortable.’

When it comes to her muse, Bambi is clear. ‘The Patrizia Pepe woman is a strong and consistent woman, living on the border between urban sophistication and irreverent sensuality. She’s bold and brave, and she knows where she stands. She is not afraid to be ironic or unconventional, as she’s unconditionally free and independent.’

For the autumn/winter 2018/19 collection the brand once again meets the needs of its ultimately diverse muse, ‘playing with different styles and references. Menswearinspired micro geometries appear next to sensual transparencies, timeless monochromes alternate with sparkling textures, tailored elegance is reinvented through seductive cuts and sporty touches.’

The Patrizia Pepe Milan flagship opened in 2011 and Bambi oversaw every element of the space’s design. ‘I pay the utmost attention to our stores as they represent the beating heart of our direct relationship with our clients

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and followers,’ she explains. When it came to the location itself there was no question. ‘Via Manzoni stands right in the centre of the city, surrounded by historical theatres, business offices, contemporary art galleries and the secret gardens of centuries-old buildings.

I feel that somehow this street symbolises Patrizia Pepe’s multiple inspirations from art, music, culture and street-style vibrations.’

What’s next for the brand that has become so ingrained in the consciousness of Italian fashion? ‘The future holds a constant quest for creativeness and innovation,’ says Bambi. ‘We will continue to shape diversified collections and contents to be even more inspiring and aspirational, also through exclusive initiatives and collaborations with the world of music.’ Examples include projects with singer Dua Lipa.

Customers can discover the very best of the new collection in the Via Manzoni store.

According to Bambi there is one particularly perfect combination to look out for. ‘The embellished bomber or leather jackets, the floral dresses, the Love shoulder bags and the glitter sneakers!’

Patrizia Pepe, Via Alessandro Manzoni 38, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 4477, patriziapepe.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 101

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WHAT’S IN STORE

Patrizia Pepe bag, €228

Patrizia Pepe bag, €278

Patrizia Pepe bag, €348

Patrizia Pepe shoes, €338

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Patrizia Pepe boots, €398

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MILANO | Piazza San Babila 3 | Tel. +39 02 760.003.66

10 Stores in the City

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THE ART OF

THE SHOE

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What is it about the Made in Italy label that sets footwear fans’ hearts racing?

One small town may hold the answers, as Lucinda Turner discovers

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talian footwear is admired across the globe and many discerning customers, whether they are perusing the high-end boutiques in Paris or the glamorous department stores of Istanbul, will look for the prestigious Made in Italy label before making a purchase. This benchmark of quality for Italian-made goods has become internationally recognisable, conferring an elite status upon the products that bear it. But what makes Italian footwear, in particular, so covetable? And how has a crop of the country’s traditional brands managed to create some of the most fashion-forward shoes on the market?

The answer to these questions lies in the small town of San Mauro Pascoli in Northern Italy. During the 1950s the area quickly became known for its shoemaking, due to the high concentration of able resident craftsmen.

Pollini was one of the brands that sprang from this talent pool.

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high-quality craftsmanship remains unchanged. Each shoe goes through over 135 processes before it reaches the shop floor of the label’s Milan flagship on Via della Spiga. Pollini places a strong emphasis on the artisanship and passion that underpins its creations and, as a result, avoids excessive use of technology in its factory. From the design team to the leather cutters, the bulk of the most intricate work is done by hand. Even when a machine is used during the assembly process, a highlytrained assembler will still make adjustments by hand to ensure absolute perfection.

Pollini’s designs range from the practical to the avant-garde. Highlights for autumn/winter 2018/19 include pastel pink fur mules, silver over-the-knee boots and a pair of metallic corded sandals that would be perfect for a festive party. Alongside classic Pollini buckled ankle boots and conservative heeled loafers, the brand proves that solid

Italian craftsmanship can be the backbone for almost any design.

Pollini is not the only brand that calls San Mauro Pascoli home. Born in the town in 1935, Sergio Rossi, the son of a local artisan, went on to found his eponymous footwear label here in 1966. Coming into prominence in the 1970s through collaborations with large Italian brands such as Dolce & Gabbana and Versace, Sergio Rossi has been a mainstay of the country’s footwear scene ever since.

Today, Naomi Campbell, Sarah Jessica Parker and Beyoncé are fans.

For 2018, Sergio Rossi launched the SR Milano collection, featuring an angular heel with a branded metal plate. Applied to pumps, boots and slingbacks, the distinctive design is set to become a new icon for the label.

Production has remained in San Mauro Pascoli since the first branded shoe left the Sergio Rossi factory in 1968 and, though 2018 marks 50 years since this milestone,

Above (clockwise from bottom left): silver sequined sandal from the Sergio Rossi SR Milano collection; the brand’s craftsmanship in progress; model Kaia Gerber wearing Sergio Rossi, pictured with her mother, Cindy Crawford

PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT) MAURIZIOBEUCCI.COM; (RIGHT) NEIL RASMUS/BFA.COM

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Sergio Rossi is anything but stuck in the past.

Tradition and innovation work effortlessly together at the brand and the results speak for themselves: up to 1,600 pairs of Sergio Rossi shoes are produced daily in the very same factory where it all began.

Just as Sergio Rossi’s success was nurtured in San Mauro Pascoli, so too was that of world-renowned Casadei. Quinto and Flora Casadei founded a modest sandal company here in 1958, which rapidly expanded during the 1960s thanks to the increasing popularity of the Made in Italy movement. Cesare Casadei, son of the founders, returned to the town in the mid 1980s and became actively involved in his parents’ company, taking on the role of creative director in 1994.

Today Casadei is a global sensation. The brand’s Blade design is instantly recognisable the world over. The exquisitely slender heel appears to be almost an optical illusion, made possible through sheer expertise in shoe production. Casadei has become famous for Above (clockwise from bottom left): three looks from Casadei autumn/winter 2018/19; Cesare Casadei with the brand’s Blade design

PHOTO: (BOTTOM RIGHT) ULI WEBER

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The exquisitely slender heel of Casadei’s Blade design is recognised the world over marrying modern, fashion-forward designs with technical excellence, offering the customer quality and artistry with every design. The reward for Cesare Casadei comes ‘when I see a woman wearing one of our creations. At that moment, the magic of a shoe is truly capable of conveying the painstaking commitment and passion that I have always invested in this fantastic trade.’

A Casadei shoe always offers something extra, from Swarovski crystals and flamboyant tulle detailing to highly technical leather cutworks and dazzling structural features.

Whether you are searching the glamorous boutiques of Milan for a chic everyday shoe or a glittering party piece, the exports of one littleknown Italian town are constantly pushing boundaries while cherishing traditional craftsmanship. Stylish and beautifully created, what could be more Italian?

Above (from top): the Blade design pictured at Casadei’s factory in San Mauro Pascoli; a sequined look from the brand’s autumn/winter 2018/19 collection

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

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Above: English caption xxxxx qui officiducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi quis cum facil

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PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

This season, Milan’s leading designers explore the concept of female power in the modern age.

Hannah Lewis reports

Left: backstage at Gucci autumn/winter 2018/19

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or autumn/winter 2018/19, in a social climate where gender politics are becoming international news, Italy’s leading designers have come together – consciously or unconsciously – to present collections that consider what it means to be a powerful modern woman. Brands including Roberto Cavalli, Max Mara and Prada make a case for luxury fashion itself as a form of female empowerment.

Roberto Cavalli is a brand that has long associated strong women with glitz and glamour. The label’s eponymous founder had a penchant for animal prints, leathers and – most notably – revealing silhouettes.

In his second collection for the label, creative director Paul Surridge blended many of the founder’s signature tropes with elements of the loose tailoring and androgynous lines that typified his menswear roles at Jil Sander and Acne Studios. Ruched, bodycon dresses were layered under boxy biker jackets – both 117

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in matching leopard print. A white dress was high-necked and almost floor-length, yet partially sheer. In many ways, this collection is about balance.

Backstage at the show Surridge explained that, to him, glamour and attraction equate to confidence, and that confidence cannot exist without comfort. Roberto Cavalli clothes make women feel both confident and comfortable, whether the garments are bold and revealing or understated.

Encouraging women to feel confident is something that Max Mara is very familiar with, having played a big part in defining 1980s power dressing. This season, designer Ian Griffiths brought together the chic, almost masculine tailoring that has typified the house since that decade with another fashion reference from the same era: punk rock.

Alongside the brand’s staple pieces – pencil skirts and wool coats, for example – Griffiths introduced the punk fashion mainstays of Above (from left): Roberto Cavalli; Max Mara, both autumn/ winter 2018/19

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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Let your clothes tell a story of feminine power this season tartan and leather. The latter was found in almost every look, from belts to gloves to jackets, and even a few all-leather looks.

Punk and power dressing, explained Griffiths, were two fashions that gave women new authority and opportunity, though in different ways: one to stand out from the crowd and one to lend status in the workplace. In bringing them together, Max Mara highlights the complexities of female empowerment today, and also its potential.

The intricacies of being a woman in the modern world were a central theme at Prada, where designer Miuccia Prada spoke backstage about the ‘struggle between retaining femininity and being strong.’ Her collection looked to a future that embraced both the strength and the softness of womanhood.

Delicate tulle dresses, which featured large bows at the nape of the neck, were layered over and under high-vis materials and bodices in military colours, or all but covered by Above (both): Prada autumn/winter 2018/19

oversized jackets in high-performance fabrics.

Many looks were finished with luggage tags worn like corporate ID badges, as if Prada were dressing women for every role they might play in modern life.

If Miuccia Prada’s constructions can be interpreted as an exaggerated representation of complex female identity, Alessandro Michele took it to the next level at Gucci. The autumn/ winter 2018/19 collection explores the way that people construct their identities through fashion; here the catwalk became a laboratory, and the models its creations. Though the catwalk styling at Gucci is extreme – certain models held replicas of their own heads in a nod to Dr Frankenstein – the pieces themselves are eminently wearable and the success of the brand is testament to this. A glittery dress with sheer ruffles was dressed down with sneakers, but would look perfect with heels for an evening event. Garment bags encompassing models’ entire looks contained tailored pieces that would fit into any wardrobe. The collection, like womanhood, is what you make of it.

Above (clockwise from top left): Prada; two looks from Gucci, all autumn/winter 2018/19

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’s identity has become inextricably linked to her fashion choices, and it was to her that Jeremy Scott looked for inspiration for this season’s collection at Moschino. He spoke of the strength Onassis showed after losing her first husband; how could she remain so seemingly perfect while enduring such pain? The answer, or at least the concept Scott chose to explore, was that she was actually an alien. On the catwalk, this tongue-in-cheek theory was played out in looks that were heavily inspired by the signature style of Jackie O. Classic 1960s silhouettes burst with bold colours and pop art prints. For Scott, their variety signified the endless possibilities of the unknown in outer space.

Though Moschino’s approach leaned heavily towards the playful and the humorous, there was a serious message behind the fun.

Onassis used fashion both to shield and to empower herself, constructing a persona that she could take strength from. Whatever story your clothes are telling this season, be sure it’s one of feminine power Above (both): Moschino autumn/winter 2018/19

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

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A Gentle Touch Brunello Cucinelli’s cashmere company is founded on humanist principles. The Italian designer tells Ginger Rose Clark about his revolutionary approach to the business of fashion

Left: Brunello Cucinelli autumn/winter 2018/19

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medieval castle, surrounded by a picturesque hamlet, on a hill in the Italian province of Perugia: this charming scene, worthy of a postcard, is Solomeo, where luxury cashmere brand Brunello Cucinelli has its headquarters.

For those that don’t know the brand, Brunello Cucinelli might be defined by its cosy knits, carefully constructed tailoring, stylish leisurewear and beautiful lifestyle pieces. However, closer inspection reveals that behind the luxury products lies a company built on a deep-rooted humanistic ethos.

The eponymous designer was born in 1953 in Castel Rigone, and the origins of his philosophy can be traced to his childhood. ‘For me, everything began when I saw my father humiliated and

offended at work,’ he explains. ‘I still remember his expression: he would come home exhausted but would not talk about his frustrations. I promised myself that, even if I did not know what I would do with my life, I would certainly make sure that no one would ever be humiliated at work.’

This mindset was one of the founding principles of the small cashmere business Cucinelli launched in 1978. And along with the philosophies of great thinkers such as Socrates, Kant, Rousseau and Marcus Aurelius, it is a mindset that has shaped the company for four decades. ‘Since the very beginning, I have had this dream of living and working for the dignity of mankind,’ says Cucinelli. ‘I have always thought that no profit should be made without

Above (from top): Solomeo, the home of the Brunello Cucinelli brand; the brand’s headquarters in the town; the founder of the eponymous label

PHOTOS: (TOP & MIDDLE) SANTE CASTIGNANI; (BOTTOM) 2014 ADAM KATZ SINDING

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valuing human dignity, and that we could undertake something meaningful in order to bring mankind to the forefront of our work and our company.’

Solomeo – the town where Cucinelli’s wife was born – has also played a crucial role in defining the company. Won over by its charm, Cucinelli moved to Solomeo in 1982 before going on to purchase the town’s castle three years later, thanks to the growing success of his brand. Cucinelli has brought his humanistic enterprise to fruition in Solomeo: over time he has invested in and developed the town, aiming to boost knowledge as well as preserve its land and monuments. It now boasts an arts forum, built by master craftsmen from the local region, complete with a theatre where a wide range of international and national artists have taken to the stage. The Solomeo school of arts and crafts, inspired by John Ruskin and William Morris, trains future artisans in tailoring, knitwear, textiles, agriculture and masonry

while instilling them with a strong sense of pride in what they do.

Spurred on by their erudite employer, Brunello Cucinelli’s employees are actively encouraged to balance manual work and knowledge, which is one of the reasons why Cucinelli prefers to use the term contemporary artisans to define his craftsmen. ‘I always say that contemporary artisans are those who, for instance, know how to use both scissors and laser cutting. I also like to imagine a new generation that not only masters technology and uses it in a conscious, careful and balanced manner, but is also willing to open a good book and address the greatest souls of the past.’

Besides ensuring the transmission of manual skills to future craftsmen, Cucinelli has made it his mission to impart knowledge in order to ‘pass on something meaningful to future generations, which exceeds the limits of their physical existence.’

While humanistic principles have helped

Above: the Solomeo school of arts and crafts trains future artisans in tailoring, knitwear, textiles, agriculture and masonry

define the company’s ethos, Cucinelli’s intuitive business approach can be credited for the brand’s unbounded success. From the beginning, he tapped into a gap in the market with his colourful cashmere products, an accomplishment that has enabled him to establish strong financial foundations on which to build his company.

In addition, being based in Solomeo provides Brunello Cucinelli products with the coveted Made in Italy cachet – Cucinelli holds this benchmark of quality in high regard. ‘It can mean genius, elegance, style, a positive attitude towards life, respect for work, esteem for craftsmanship, attachment to our territory and to our own land. And yet, this has nothing to do with nationalism or other similar ideologies. In fact, it is just the opposite: contemporary and cosmopolitan people are those who become ambassadors of certain values and know that being good people and caring for others always comes first.’ Cucinelli has artfully fused Umbria’s knitting traditions with cashmere, a material from Central Asia.

Above (all): Brunello Cucinelli autumn/winter 2018/19

This combination of heritage, high-quality materials and profound respect for the people that make the products is what makes Brunello Cucinelli’s products unique. ‘We have significantly contributed to shifting the customer perception of cashmere, such a precious and unique fabric, in terms of value, as well as raising awareness about the difference between expensive and valuable garments,’ he observes.

There can be few, if any, luxury clothing brands run with such a philosophical and philanthropic approach. ‘As the great Russian writer Pavel Florenskij states: “You should always be willing to raise your gaze to the heavens and look at the stars.”

This is particularly true during our time, when the hustle and bustle of everyday life seems to make people lose sight of the profound beauty that surrounds them,’ says its founder. Not content with building a cashmere empire, Brunello Cucinelli has also succeeded in opening people’s eyes to the beauties of the world

PHOTO: (TOP LEFT) FRANCESCO STELITANO

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‘Being good people and caring for others always comes first’ – Brunello Cucinelli

Above: Brunello Cucinelli autumn/winter 2018/19

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CAFÉ SOCIETY Discover the best sweet treats in Milan in Virginie Morawski’s selection of the city’s top pastry shops

Those with a sweet tooth are guaranteed to find fulfilment in a Milanese pasticceria. The city’s pastry shops, brimming with all kinds of sugary delicacies, are a veritable feast for the senses, with textures, aromas and flavours galore.

From the ubiquitous and delicious panettone and unctuous custard-filled cannoncino pastries to indulgent chocolates, not to mention a plethora of traditional Italian biscuits such as almond cantucci, crescentshaped lunette and crisp savoiardi you’ll be spoiled for choice. Once you’ve made your pick, enjoy it with a cup of top-notch Italian coffee, and relax as you watch the world go by. globalblue.com

MARCHESI 1824 One of Milan’s oldest pastry shops and cafés, Marchesi 1824 has stayed true to its origins, preserving both its charismatic atmosphere and its artisanal approach.

The finest ingredients are used in Grand Cru chocolates and sourdough bakes like traditional panettone and pandoro sweet bread, not to mention longstanding favourites such as the Torta Truffé, a heavenly combination of chocolate, rum and hazelnuts. In addition, you’ll find a wide variety of delectable confectionery, dragées, chocolate cream and more in the shop. Combine Marchesi 1824’s delights with an espresso or a sustainable tea while enjoying the timelessly stylish décor of the café. You’ll find the original branch on Via Santa Maria alla Porta, as well as newer additions on Via Montenapoleone (pictured) and in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Marchesi 1824, Via Montenapoleone 9, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8238, pasticceriamarchesi.com

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SANT AMBROEUS Sant Ambroeus’s freshly baked croissants, brioches and pastries are the perfect way to start the day: if you’ve only got time for a quick break enjoy a pastry and coffee at the counter, otherwise spend a leisurely moment in the café. Once you’ve had your fill, swing by the pastry and chocolate shop to stock up on treats. Sant Ambroeus makes everything from artisanal tortes

and panettone to the house speciality, a zabaglione-filled chocolate called Ambrogiotto. Named after the patron saint of Milan, Sant Ambroeus also offers traditional Milanese and Italian dishes in its restaurant, as well as the Milanese institution of the aperitivo.

Sant Ambroeus, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0540, santambroeusmilano.com

Founded in 1961, Gattullo is an awardwinning pasticceria where sweet and savoury products are made using traditional recipes. Products include historical classics such as the colomba, a cake traditionally eaten at Easter in Italy, the world-famous Sachertorte chocolate gateau, bite-sized cakes and a wide variety of biscuits. Enjoy breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea or a Milanese aperitivo while admiring the nostalgiasteeped interior with Murano chandeliers and wooden panelling.

Pasticceria Gattullo, Piazzale di Porta Lodovica 2, 20136 Milan, +39 02 5831 0497, gattullo.it globalblue.com

PHOTO: (TOP) ALFONSOCATALANO/SGPITALIA

PASTICCERIA GATTULLO

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PASTICCERIA BESUSCHIO Founded in 1845, Pasticceria Besuschio remains a family business, now run by the fifth generation of the Besuschio family. Tradition, craftsmanship and seasonal ingredients come together in quality products under the direction of Andrea Besuschio: pralines, elegant mousses and panettone are just some of the mouthwatering masterpieces you can expect to find here. Look out for Besuschio’s famous crakelè, a leavened dough enhanced with chestnuts,

candied lemon and vanilla, for example.

In addition to its wide choice of pastries, Pasticceria Besuschio is home to an enoteca where you can discover wines that have been carefully selected by Andrea Besuschio, who also happens to be a sommelier. The trip to Abbiategrasso, a charming town around 20km from Milan, is well worth it.

Pasticceria Besuschio, Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 59, 20081 Abbiategrasso, +39 02 9496 6479, pasticceriabesuschio.it

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) SIMON PALFRADER/RED PASTICCERIA KNAM

KNAM Ernst Knam worked for some of the world’s most prestigious restaurants, including a stint as master pastry chef under acclaimed Italian chef Gualtiero Marchesi, before opening his own patisserie on Milan’s Via Anfossi in 1992.

Working in accordance with the seasons, Knam draws on his travels to create exciting recipes based on unusual flavour pairings: chocolate, spices and fruit are combined in extraordinary ways in layered mousses, chocolate creations, elegant tarts and savoury options.

Knam, Via Augusto Anfossi 10, 20135 Milan, +39 02 5519 4448, eknam.com

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Milan with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a leading eyewear store and an authentic Japanese restaurant to the stunning urban architecture of the Bosco Verticale residential towers (pictured). Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team.

For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/milan.

PHOTO: MAXTERRAGNI CC0 CREATIVE COMMONS

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Fratelli Rossetti Find an eye-catching pair of shoes at the boutique of this leading name in Italian footwear.

Fratelli Rossetti, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1650,

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Patrizia Pepe Elegant, feminine designs are the trademark of this favourite Italian fashion house; stop by to discover the latest collections.

Patrizia Pepe, Via Alessandro Manzoni 38, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 4477,

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v-grass.com

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V-Grass This Asian brand's new Milan store is a great place to shop fashionforward womenswear.

V-Grass, Via della Spiga 30, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8718 6660,

CHIA

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FEATURED ON PAGE 20

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Bulgari Pick up a new statement bag at the Milan flagship of this iconic Italian jewellery and accessories brand.

Bulgari, Via della Spiga/Via Sant’Andrea, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777001,

1

VIA SO

SHOP HIGHLIGHTS

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V I A PA L E S T R O

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BASILICA DI SAN MARCO

88 | M I L A N G U I D E

CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II AREA Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Via San Pietro all’Orto & Via Torino

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MM ● NAU ● ● GEOX BOTTEGA VERDE ● ● FOOT LOCKER SWEET WAY ● ● DESIGUAL MAC ● BOUTIQUE DEL GIOIELLO ● ● MANGO TRE ESSE SPORT ● ● MCS ● NIKE STORE ● BATH & BODY WORKS AW LAB ● MUJI ● ● VERGELIO PANDORA ● ● CARPISA PULL & BEAR ● ● KIKO SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ● ● KEY BE KIEHL'S ● O ● PIMKIE N GUESS ● R I ● ACCESSORIZE TO ● YAMAMAY TEZENIS ● A ● MARCO I TALLY WEIJL ● V ● OTTICA BARELLO DIXIE ● ● TERRANOVA

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

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Bar

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Featured In This Issue

VI A U GO FOSCOLO

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TIFFANY & CO ●

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GALLERIA VITTORIO EM ANUELE II

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SARTORIA ROSSI ● CIELO 1914 ●

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Ristorante Savini

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BORSALINO MONTBLANC MEJANA PIUMELLI CHURCH’S NOLI

GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II

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● ● ● ● ● ●

VI

G AL L ERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II

COMUNE DI MILANO URBAN CENTRE ● RIZZOLI ● ANDREW'S TIES ●

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S H O P | 91

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Via San Pietro all’Orto & Via Torino

VI A DU RINI PA

INTIMISSIMI ● CELIO ● TISSOT ●

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Piazza San Carlo

MARIUCCIA ●

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VI A A Cioccolati G N EL Italiani L

● DIMENSIONE DANZA

● TWIN SET ● LUISA SPAGNOLI KIKO ● SWATCH ● ● MILAN MEGA STORE GOBBI 1842 ● ● MICHAEL KORS MARILENA ● ● PINKO SWAROVSKI ● ● DISNEY ● LIU JO ZARA ● THE HIGHLINE T O MEN ● ● FOOT LOCKER ’OR ALL ● GAP ZARA ● TRO ● ADIDAS . P IE CALZEDONIA ● V. S ● TEZENIS UNITED COLOURS ● PULL & BEAR OF BENETTON ● ● SEPHORA IS ● BERSHKA IS TO F O R IA DE CR ● MANGO G A LL ER ● KIKO ID MAX MARA ● MAX & CO ● Excelsior PENNYBLACK ● ● MOTIVI I BLUES ● ● WYCON ● YAMAMAY MARELLA ● MARINA RINALDI ● ● CISALFA

Piazza Liberty

CO RS O MATT EO TT I

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EU

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Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Department Store

Gelateria

Featured In This Issue

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VI A SA

BABILA Piazza San Babila Piazza San Carlo GU A STA LL

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● PRONOVIAS SAMSONITE ● MAURO LEONE ● ● FERUTDIN ZAKIROV CONTIGO ● ● SUPERGA BOSE ● CASHMIRINO ● ● SANDRO FERRONE FOR PETS ONLY ● ● MARCO O

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S H O P | 93

PIAZZA SAN BABILA AREA Piazza San Babila, Corso Matteotti & Via Bigli Corso Venezia & Corso Europa

M ON TE NA PO LE ON E VI A M ON TE

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Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

Department Store

Restaurant

Bar

Featured In This Issue

ITTALA ●

STONE FLY ●

● GUESS

VIA ANSELMO RONCHETTI

P.46 TRUSSARDI JEANS ●

ARTEM IDE ● FONTA NA ARTE ●

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PAUL TAYLOR ●

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FLOS ● D E PADOVA ● LUCE PLAN ●

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FERUTDIN ZAKIROV ●

DE MATTIA ● PASABAHCE ● PIKENZ ● JECKERSON ● GRAVATI ● SARA GIUNTI ● ALVIERO MARTINI ●

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12 floors of food and fashion

96 | M I L A N G U I D E

MONTENAPOLEONE AREA Via Sant’Andrea, Via Pietro Verri & Piazza Meda, Via Gesù, Via Borgospesso & Via Santo Spirito VI

NI

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SP

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MODICA MILANO ● GREYMER ● BE AROUND ●

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VERSACE HOME ●

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● MONTEGRAPPA ● FABBRICATORE ● SCHREIBER ● PORADA TURRI ● ● INBORGOSPESSO 18 ● CORNELIO CAPPELLINI BOTTEGA VENETA ● GALLUCCI HOME ● ● ALTOMANI & SONS ● GALLERIA SILVA LOUIS MICHAIL Drogheria ● TOP TIME MUSA Parini ● MALVEZZI ● MARSOL ● SOLO BLU

A

BO

VI

A

ZO

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MI.MI.SOL. ●

VI

JF LONDON ● RO OTTICA S.SPIRITO ● SSA P.107 AGRESTI ● RI WALTER PADOVANI BALENCIAGA ● ● ANTIQUARIO ISABEL MARANT ● ● DAAD DANTONE ANTIQUARIATO BENSI ● CARLO TIVIOLI O ●● GIOIELLI DI SANTO SPIRITO 13 ● T NEIL BARRETT I GIORGIO JANEKE ● I R ● DROME GIANVITO ROSSI ● S P ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE O ● PAROSH BALLIN ● Global Blue Lounge N T● IL BISONTE SÙ GE S A● N° 21 A CHANTECLER ● A VI I STELLA V MCCARTNEY ●

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LARDINI ● BARBA NAPOLI ● CAIATI FINE ARTS ● ORIENTAL ART ● DOUCAL'S ● ROSALBA ● KITON ● SILVANO LATTANZI ● LUCIANO BARBERA ● BARRETT ● SÙ TINCATI ● GE DORIANI CASHMERE ● A I ZILLI ● V

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PROMEMORIA ●

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Piazza San Carlo

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Metro

Global Blue Lounge

Restaurant

Piazza San Babila

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98 | M I L A N G U I D E

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ITALIA INDEPENDENT

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Café

Restaurant

PHOTO: ALDO FERRERO

Eyewear brand Italia Independent has quickly become one of the fashion elite’s go-to labels for stylish sunglasses and optical frames. The brand’s store on Milan’s chic Via Montenapoleone is filled with covetable options, whether you prefer a cat-eye frame, reflective lenses or the classic aviator. Keep an eye out for exclusive collaborations with some of the world’s most exciting brands, including fine Swiss watchmaker Hublot. With so much on offer, Italia Independent is sure to solve all your winter eyewear dilemmas.

Italia Independent, Via Montenapoleone 19, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7862 3358, italiaindependent.com Metro

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 99

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100 | M I L A N G U I D E

SABBADINI Founded in 1940, Sabbadini is a name to note in the world of Italian fine jewellery. The brand prides itself on using some of the world’s most magnificent stones in its creations, each of which is made in the Sabbadini workshop in the heart of Milan. Known for its bee motif, which adorns necklaces, rings and bracelets, Sabbadini also offers exquisite items of high jewellery and statement earrings like the pair pictured (price on request). Seek out your favourite pieces in the sophisticated Via Montenapoleone store.

Sabbadini, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8228, sabbadini.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 98

For autumn/winter 2018/19 Moreschi’s men’s collection takes inspiration from intrepid expeditions across Antarctica, envisaged in a polar colour palette of ice blues and greys, and uses of suede and sheepskin on sneakers and loafers. The women’s collection has taken a distinctly androgynous turn, with studded Chelsea boots and brogues in addition to the brand’s ever-popular heels.

Combining craftsmanship and Italian shoemaking heritage since 1946, each pair of Moreschi footwear undergoes between 250 and 300 manual processes in the brand’s factory before making it onto the shop floor of the Milan boutique. For your own piece of Italian-made luxury, look no further.

Moreschi, Corso Venezia 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0529, moreschi.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 93 globalblue.com

PHOTO: (TOP) CESARE GUALDONI

MORESCHI

S H O P | 101

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Featured In This Issue

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102 | M I L A N G U I D E

DANTE & MAGENTA AREA Corso Magenta

Via Dante

● PETALI CERATINA 1919 ●

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ZANI VIAGGI, MILAN VISITOR CENTRE ●

CAIROLI

ZUCCA STREGATA ● COLTELLERIA ● LORENZI MILANO ● PANTONE UNIVERSALE ● CAMICISSIMA GIOIELLERIA ● FALLIVA PANIZZI ● GREAT MASTERS OF TIME ● PELLINI ● M. BARDELLI I

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VIA TIVOLI ● OTTICA MAGENTA ● GIOIELLI ORO ARGENTO ● METROPOLITAN ● COSIMO GENTILE ●

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PERLITA ● CASA DEL BIANCO ● MARIONNAUD ● DE NIGRIS ● BOGGI ● RAW ● MATIAS OUTLET ● PERFUME BY CALÈ ● DASSI ● LA PICCOLA GIOIELLERIA ● M.C.M. SANTA MARIA NOVELLA ● ERA L'ORA ●

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

扫描二维码，订阅环球蓝联官方微 信。接收最新的购物和退税信息。 追踪和管理您的退税，获取在线客 服及其他退税服务。 Scan the QR code to subscribe to Global Blue’s official WeChat services. Receive the latest shopping and tax refund information. Track and manage your refund, and get online customer service and other tax refund services.

104 | M I L A N G U I D E

CORSO COMO, GAE AULENTI & BRERA AREA Piazza Gae Aulenti, Corso Como & Corso Garibaldi STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI GARIBALDI FS

LA FELTRINELLI SWATCH ● ● READ EAT DREAM ● AIRNESS

MOLESKINE ●

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AIGNER German brand Aigner creates some of the most stylish luxury leather pieces around, and is known for playful collections of bags and small accessories, all hand-crafted from the finest materials in the Aigner factory in Munich. The brand’s store on Via Tommaso Grossi is the perfect place to explore Aigner’s collections of bags, belts and wallets, as well as watches, jewellery and shoes, and find some new accessories for your autumn/winter wardrobe.

Aigner, Via Tommaso Grossi 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7210 5391, aignermunich.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 88 Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

Metro

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SELECTED STORES IN STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI: Accessorize Calzedonia Eurobijoux Foot Locker I ER La Feltrinelli SP TO Lama OpticalVIA TI Tally Weijl Tezenis

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www.10corsocomo.com Corso Como, 10 - 20154 Milano - Italy Every day 10:30 am - 07:00 pm t.+39 02 29013581

106 | M I L A N G U I D E

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WICKY’S WICUISINE Wicky Priyan is one of Milan’s most disciplined and technical chefs. A criminologist before pursuing his career in food, the Japanese dishes he serves at his restaurant are precise and meticulouslycrafted. Here, guests can discover an authentic taste of kaiseki (authentic Japanese

cuisine) created using the finest Mediterranean produce. For an unforgettable meal, book the Omakase Chef’s Table tasting menu, created by Priyan himself. You’ll be able to watch the preparation of each dish from the best seat in the house.

Wicky’s Wicuisine, Corso Italia 6, 20122 Milan, +39 02 8909 3781, wicuisine.net

AGRESTI

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) PIETRO SAVORELLI

The humble safe has never been considered an item of beauty, yet for more than 60 years Agresti has focused its energies on creating stunning furniture, trunks and strongboxes to protect its customers’ most luxurious and precious possessions. The brand’s range of armoires, in particular, are the perfect marriage of fine Italian craftsmanship and sophisticated security technology. Agresti’s latest model, the Arco (pictured, price on request), is available in polished walnut with 24-carat gold-plated fittings and features an advanced biometric opening device, emergency key integration, necklace holder, jewellery drawers and a secret compartment, ensuring that all your valuables remain elegantly under lock and key.

Agresti, Via Luigi Rossari 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7200 0637, agresti.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 96

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Dry Milano offers guests a hybrid of authentic Italian pizzeria and hipster cocktail bar. The menu features a whole host of classic flavours, from the Margherita to the bianca, alongside the chef’s speciality pizzas, delicious focaccia and tantalising small plates. Eschewing the typical combination of pizza and beer, Dry Milano offers a comprehensive cocktail menu to accompany its hearty food offering, making it a novel choice for dinner after a day of exploring the sites.

Dry Milano, Viale Vittorio Veneto 28, 20124 Milan, +39 02 6347 1564, drymilano.it Non-Global Blue Retailer

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OPENING TIMES MondaySunday: 10am-8pm

DAY TRIP

SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET The biggest designer outlet in Europe, Serravalle Designer Outlet boasts over 240 stores, 11 cafés and restaurants, and guest services including a tax refund and currency office, international payment facilities, and free Wi-Fi.

Serravale Designer Outlet, Via della Moda 1, 15069 Serravalle, +39 0143 609000, mcarthurglen.it/serravalle

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DESIGNER BRANDS FOR 30-70% LESS With over 300 brands to choose from, Serravalle Designer Outlet is the perfect place to indulge in designer fashion.

Luxury brands including Gucci, Fendi and Versace Chic, trend-led womenswear from Sandro and Dondup, and men’s tailoring from Isaia and Canali Italian style with Furla, Giuseppe Zanotti and Ferragamo Sportswear from top labels Nike, Adidas and Salomon

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Outlet Village

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Serravalle Designer Outlet

HOW TO GET THERE By car From Milan, take the A7 until you see the exit for Serravalle Scrivia. Take the exit and follow signs for Serravalle Designer Outlet. The journey takes around an hour.

By shuttle bus The popular shuttle bus service takes customers from Milan to Serravalle seven times a day.

OPENING TIMES

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DAY TRIP

FRANCIACORTA OUTLET VILLAGE

Come to Franciacorta Outlet Village and discover over 190 stores of top international brands and discounts up to 70% all year round.

Franciacorta Outlet Village, Piazza Cascina Moie 1, 25050 Rodengo Saiano, +39 030 681 0364, franciacortaoutlet.it

HOW TO GET THERE By car From Milan, take the A4 Milan-Venice motorway (exit Ospitaletto) or take the A35 Bre-Be-Mi (take the final exit) then proceed to junction A4. Your journey will take less than an hour.

By shopping shuttle There is a daily shuttle service from Milan, for information and schedules go to franciacortaoutlet.it

THE WINE & SHOPPING TOUR The Wine & Shopping Tour lets you discover a land full of taste. You might enjoy a guided tour with tasting sessions at one of the Franciacorta wineries – the Village’s shuttle service will take you there. For booking and information, visit the Zani Viaggi office on Milan’s Largo Cairoli. globalblue.com

NEW OPENINGS …

There is always something new to enjoy at Franciacorta Outlet Village.

Fratelli Rossetti, North Sails, Under Armour, Rebel Queen by Liu Jo, Patrizia Pepe, Tru Trussardi, Loriblu, Martino Midali, Flavio Castellani, Caractère, Plein Sport are just a few of the stores which have opened at the village in the last months.

Come and discover the new stores.

PHOTO: © 2014 MAURIZIO CAMAGNA

Beautifully situated between Lake Garda and Lake Iseo, and less than an hour from Milan, Franciacorta Outlet Village offers a unique and sparkling shopping experience imbued with the wine and food culture of this extraordinary region, which is the home of the famous Franciacorta DOCG wines.

Monday-Sunday: 10am-8pm June, July and August: Friday and Saturday 10am-9pm

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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form.

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your Tax Free Forms stamped before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

Spend a minimum of €154.95 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Office Details Malpensa Airport: Terminal 1, Departures check-in, Area 12, second floor Terminal 1, Area A Schengen (after security control), first floor Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Linate Airport: Forexchange Maccorp, Departures Downtown Milan: Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer service desk), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan Downtown Como: Viaggi Ronchi, Lungo Lario Trieste 10

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

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How To Get Your Tax Refund At The Store Request a Tax Free Form.

Please note: when completing the Tax Free Form, retailers may ask you for the information below, due to the new Otello 2.0 legislation (effective from 1 September 2018).

• • • • • •

First name Surname Country of residence Date of birth Identity document Passport number*

•

Passport issuing country

*Swiss customers can present an identity card instead of a passport

If you do not provide the information above, you will not be able to obtain a Tax Free Form.

At The Point Of Departure Please follow the instructions at the airport.

ITALY’S MAIN AIRPORTS (Rome Fiumicino T3, Milan Malpensa T1, Florence Peretola, Venice Marco Polo): Items in check-in luggage Go to a Global Blue Refund Office or kiosk for electronic validation and refund BEFORE check-in.

Items in hand luggage Go to a Global Blue Refund Office or Customs AFTER security control for electronic validation and refund.

You can go to a Global Blue Refund Office/ Customs up to four hours before your departure time.

Kiosk

Follow the instructions on the screen and your refund will be paid to your credit card within five days.

Other Italian And Eu Airports

Go to Customs and get your validation BEFORE check-in.

Go to a Refund Office displaying the Global Blue logo, or mail your stamped and completed Tax Free Form(s) back to Global Blue in the envelope provided, and get your refund paid to your credit card within three weeks.

NO CUSTOMS VALIDATION = NO REFUND

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TRANSLATIONS 中文翻译 58: THE ART OF THE SHOE 鞋履的艺术 意 大 利制造”的标 签究竟有何妙处， 能令鞋 履爱 好者们心跳加速？答案或 许就 藏 在一座小镇之中。Lucinda Turner带 您了解 意 大 利鞋 履在世界 各地备 受推崇。无论是徜 徉于巴 黎的高端 精品店，还 是在 伊斯 坦布尔 流 光溢 彩的百货 商店流 连，许 多品味 独 到的 顾客都 会在 付 款 之前悉心 寻觅“意 大 利制 造”的 标 签。这一意 大 利制造商品的质 量基 准已 经在国际 上 广受 认可，为 携 带 标 签 的产 品 授 予了卓越 的身份 象征。但 是，究竟是 什么 让 意 大 利鞋 履 如此令人艳 羡？众多意 大 利传 统品牌又是如 何打造 出市面上 最前卫 的 鞋 履？ 这 些问题 的答案 就 藏 在 意 大 利北部的小 镇 San Mauro Pascoli之中。上世 纪 50年 代，该 地 区 聚集了大 批 能 工 巧匠，并因为鞋 履制作 而 声名鹊起。Pollini就 是 发源于 这片人 才 井 喷之 地 的品牌 之一。 上图: Sergio Rossi的 SR Milano系 列 鞋 履

虽然 业务 规 模 有所扩张，设 计风 格 也 随 着 时代 不断变 迁，Pollini的高品质手工 技 艺却从 未 改变。每一只鞋 都 要 经 过135道 工 序，才 能被 送 达 米 兰史皮卡大街（Via della Spiga）上 的品牌 旗 舰 店。Pollini格 外注 重手工 技 艺，将 热 情 倾 注 在 作品中，并刻意减 少工 厂中 技 术的使 用。从 设 计团队 到皮革切割 工人，那 些 最为 错 综 复杂 的工作 极 大部 分 都是 手工完 成 的。即便 在 用到 了机 器 的装配 工 序，也会有一名经 过严格训练 的装配 工人 进行手工调 整，以确 保 完美 无 缺。 从实用的到前卫 的，Pollini的设 计风 格 多种 多样。2018/19年 秋冬 季的亮点包括淡 粉 色 的 毛皮 穆 勒 鞋、银色 的过 膝 长靴，以 及专为节庆 派 对 打造、饰 有金 属 纹 路 的凉 鞋。再加 上 经典 的Pollini搭扣 式 短 靴 和 保 守的高跟懒 人 拖，该 品牌 证明了值得 信 赖的意 大 利手工 艺可以为几 乎 任 何设 计提 供 坚 实基 础。 Pollini并不是 唯 一 一家 在 San Mauro Pascoli土 生 土长的品牌。1935年，Sergio Rossi 在 这 座小 镇 上 出生，其父 亲 是 当地 的一名工 匠；1966年，他 在 这 里创立了自己的同名鞋 履 品牌。70年 代，通 过与 杜 嘉 班 纳（Dolce & Gabbana）及范 思哲（Versace）等意 大 利名牌 的 合作，Sergio Rossi名声渐 起，并自此成 为了意 大 利鞋 履 行业 的中流 砥 柱。如 今，Naomi Campbell、Sarah Jessica Parker及Beyoncé等明星 都是 他的支 持 者。

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2018年，Sergio Rossi发布了SR Milano系 列，主 打一 款饰 有金 属铭 板 的粗高跟鞋。这一 与众不同的设 计 还 应 用到了浅口高跟鞋、靴子 和露跟鞋 身上，定 将成 为 该品牌 的一大全 新标 志。 自1968年第一只Sergio Rossi品牌 鞋 运出工 厂以 来，品牌 的生 产 一直保留在 San Mauro Pascoli进行。2018年是 这一历史时刻诞 生50周 年，不过Sergio Rossi可丝 毫没有停留在 过去。该 品牌 轻而易举 地 将 传 统与创新 结 合在一 起，取 得 的成 绩不 言自明：就 在 萌生了这一 切的那间 工 厂，每天有多达1600双Sergio Rossi鞋 履问世。 正如 Sergio Rossi的成 功发源于San Mauro Pascoli，知名意 大 利品牌 Casadei也一样。1958 年，Quinto Casadei与Flora Casadei在 这 里创立 了一家不 温不火的凉 鞋公司；到了60年 代，得 益 于“意 大 利制造”的日益 风 行，品牌开始 迅 速 扩 张。80年 代中期，创始人 之子 Cesare Casadei回 到小 镇，从 此 积极参 与公司事 务，并于1994年 开始 担任 创意 总监。 如 今的Casedei已是 全 球 热门。该品牌 的 Blade设 计在世界 各地 均有 着极高的辨 识 度。纤 细 优 雅 的 鞋 跟 看 起 来几乎如同光 学错 觉，这是 凭借高超 至 臻的 鞋 履制造 专业 技 术才 得以实现 的。Casedei将摩登而 前卫 的设 计与卓越而先 进 的 技 艺融 于 一身，每一 件 作品都能为顾客 提 供 无 暇品质 及艺 术 享受，因而 在 业界闻名遐 迩。 对 于 Cesare Casadei而 言，最 好的回报便是“看 见一 个 女人穿 着 一双我们 的作品。在 那一刻， 鞋 履 的魔法真 的 能 够 传 递我 一直以 来为这个 奇 妙 行业倾 注 的心血与 热 爱。”从 施 华 洛世 奇的 水 晶、皮制花卉、醒目的薄 纱 细 节 到技 术 精湛 的皮革切割 及令人 赞 叹的结 构 特 色，每双 Casadei鞋 总会带来一些意 料之外的惊 喜。 在 米 兰魅力无限 的 精品店中驻 足，无论 您 是在物 色 别 致的日常 鞋 款，还 是 光 彩夺目的 派 对之 选，都 将切身体会到：一座 鲜为人 知的意 大 利小 镇 输出的产品在不断推陈出新 的同时， 亦十分 珍视传 统手工艺。时尚前卫、做 工 精美， 还有什么比 这 更能体 现 意 大 利风 格 呢？

68: FIERCE FEMININITY 飒爽英姿 本季，米 兰各大 设 计师纷 纷对当今时代 的女 性力量 展开了探索。Hannah Lewis 报道 2018/19秋冬 季，在 这性 别政 治屡屡 登上国际 新 闻 的 社会 氛围之中，意 大 利主流设 计师 有意 无 globalblue.cn

意、不约而同地 在 系列作品中表 达了他们 对 现 代 女强 人 的思 考。以 奢 侈时装 本身作为 女 权 的 一 种 形式，Roberto Cavalli、Max Mara和 Prada 等品牌 便是 个中 榜样。 多年以 来，Roberto Cavalli一直 展 示 着 光 彩 动人 的女强 人 形 象。该品牌 的同名创始人 对 动 物印 花、皮革以 及— — 最 显见的 — — 性 感廓 形 情 有独 钟。在 创意 总监Paul Surridge为品牌 操 刀的第二个系列中，他 将许 多深具Cavalli特色的 比喻 象征与宽 松剪 裁 及中性 线 条 等元 素 结 合在 一 起，后两者是Surridge在 Jil Sander及Acne Studios负责男装设 计 时 的典 型特 征。褶 边紧身 连 衣 裙 搭配 在 宽 松的 机 车夹克 之下— —两者 都 饰 有 豹 纹印 花，相映 成 趣；高领白色长裙几乎 垂至 地面，却 有 部 分 是 透明的。就 许 多方面 而 言，平 衡是 这个系列的关 键 词。 Surridge在 秀 场的后台解 释 称，对 于他而 言，魅力、吸引力与自信同等重要，而如果没有 舒 适 的感觉，自信也 就 无以为 继。无论是大 胆 而暴 露，还 是 低 调 而朴素，Roberto Cavalli的服 装都能 让 女 性 感 到既自信又舒 适。 Max Mara也深谙 如 何 鼓 励 女 性 感受自信， 该品牌 在很 大 程 度 上 定 义了80年 代 的 权力服 饰 （power dressing）。本 季，设 计师 Ian Griffiths 将自那 个 年 代以 来成 为品牌 标 志性特 征 的、气 质近乎阳刚的别 致 裁 剪，与同一 时代 的另一大 时尚元 素 — —朋克 摇 滚 融 合到一 起。除了该品 牌 的主 打产品 — — 例 如铅 笔 裙 和 羊 毛 外 套 — — Griffiths还力 推 朋克时尚的基 本组 成部 分：格 子 呢与皮革。从皮带到手 套再到夹克，几 乎 每一身 造 型中都 可以找到皮革 的身 影，甚至 还有几 套全 皮革造 型。 Griffiths解 释 称，朋克与 权力服 饰 这两大时 尚元 素能为 女 性 赋 予 新 的 权 威 与 机 遇，只不过 是以不同的 方 式：一 种 是 从大众 之中脱 颖 而 出，一 种 是在职 场上 提高地位。Max Mara将这 两者 结 合在一 起，着重 强调了当今女 权 运 动的 错 综 复杂及 发 展 潜力。 在 现代 世界 作为 一 个 女人 的纷繁 复杂之处 曾经 是Prada的一大中心主 题，设 计师 Miuccia Prada也曾在 后台谈 及“保 持 温 婉优 雅 和做个 女 强 人 之间的 挣 扎”。她 的系列作品展 望了一 个能 同时 接 受女 性 刚柔两 面的未 来。在 颈部饰 有大 蝴 蝶 结的 精 致薄 纱裙 或与高 可见 材料及 迷 彩色 的紧身上 衣 层层 叠 搭，或 几乎 完 全被 遮 在高性 能 织物 打造 的特大 号 夹克 之下。许 多 套 装 束都 饰 有一枚公司身份标牌，看 起 来 Prada仿佛 是 要 为 女 性在 现代 生活中可能 扮演 的所有角色 提 供 着 装。 如果说 Miuccia Prada的阐释 是 对 女 性 复杂

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身份 的夸张演绎，那 么 Alessandro Michele则为 Gucci将这 种 演绎带上了另一 个层面。2018/19 秋冬 季系列探索了人们 通 过时尚构建 各自身份 的 方 式；在 这 里，T台变成了实 验 室，模 特则是 一 件 件 作品。尽管 Gucci的秀 场 造 型有些激 进 — —为 致 敬 弗兰肯斯 坦博士，某 些模 特 手 捧 着自己头部的复制品 — — 作品本身 还 是十分耐 穿 的，品牌 的成 功 便是 最 好的实证。一 件 饰 有 透明褶 边 的华丽长裙 既 可与运 动 鞋 轻松 搭配， 也可以搭上高跟鞋 成 为夜间盛 会的完美 装 束。 收 纳 着模 特 身上 全套 衣物的服 装 袋 里，还 装有 各种剪 裁 考究的作品，可完美 融 入任 何衣 橱。 就 如女 性气 质一样，这个系列的内涵 全由您 来 赋 予。 有一 位 女 性 的身份就与其 时尚选 择衍生 出 了密不 可分的联 系，那就 是杰 奎 琳·肯尼 迪·奥 纳西斯（ Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis）— —正是

在 她 身上，Jeremy Scott寻 获了Moschino本 季系 列的 创作灵 感。Scott谈 到了杰 奎 琳 在失 去丈 夫 之后展现 出的不 可思议 的力量；她 怎能在 承受 如此巨痛之际，保 持 这 般完美 的姿 态？答案 是，她 其 实是 个外星 人— —或 者至少，这是 Scott选 择探索的 概 念。 在 秀 场上，一 袭 袭深 受典 型 Jackie O风 格 影 响 的装 束 将这 种 半开 玩 笑 的阴谋论展现 得 淋 漓 尽致；经典的 60年 代 廓 形 与大 胆色 彩 和流行艺 术印 花 相映 成 趣。对 于Scott而 言，它们 预 示 着 外太 空 未 知世界 的无限可能 性。 尽管Moschino的风 格中俏皮与幽 默 的成 分 居多，但 趣 味 的背后也隐 藏 着严肃的信息。对 于杰 奎 琳而 言，时尚既 是 盾牌 也是权杖，她 利 用时尚构建出了一 个人格面具，并从中获 取力 量。新季 来临，无 论 您要用服 装讲 述一 个 怎样 的 故事，一定 要围绕 着女 权 的主 题 展 开。

上图 (左 起 ): Gucci 2018/19 秋 冬系 列 秀 场 后 台 ; 设 计 师 Brunello Cucinelli

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新 季 来 临，无 论 您 要 用 服 装 讲 述 一 个 怎 样 的 故 事，一 定 要 围 绕 着 女 权 的 主 题 展 开

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74: A GENTLE TOUCH 温情触感

照片: 2014 ADAM KATZ SINDING

Brunello Cucinelli在人 道 主义的原则之 上 建 立 起自己的羊绒品牌。这位 意 大 利设 计师向Ginger Rose Clark讲述了他 对 时尚 行业的革命式态度 在 意 大 利佩鲁贾省的小山上，一座中世 纪 城 堡 被 风 景如画的 村庄紧紧包围：这 般 足以印上明 信片的迷 人景 色 就 在 Solomeo，这 里 是 奢 侈 羊 绒 品牌 Brunello Cucinelli的总部所在 地。对 于那 些 并不了解这 家品牌 的人而 言，或许可以用舒 适 的针 织衫、结 构考究的剪 裁、时尚的休闲装 和 优 雅美 观 的生活方 式作品来为Brunello Cucinelli 下定 义。然而，如果 近 距 离 观 察，便会发 现 在 这 些 奢 华产品的背后，是 一家建 立在 根深 蒂固的 人 道 主义 精神之 上 的公司。 同名设 计师 Brunello Cucinelli于1953年出生 在卡斯 特尔里 戈尼（Castel Rigone），其 哲学理 念的起源 可以 追溯 至他的童年时期。“ 对 于我 而 言，一 切都是 从我 看见我 父 亲在 工作时受 到 羞辱 和 攻击 时开始的。”他 解 释 道。“ 我 至今仍 记 得 他的 神 情：他回到家时总是 精疲 力竭，但 从不 提 起他心底的 沮丧。 我 暗自发誓，就 算 我 并不知道 我 这一生将 要 做 些 什么，我也 一定 要 确 保没有人会在 工作 时遭受屈 辱。” 这 种心 态 便是1978年小 型羊 绒公司Cucinelli成 立时 的 创业 原则 之一。四十 年来，正 是 这 样 的心 态与苏 格 拉 底、康 德 、卢梭、马可·奥 里 利乌 斯 等先 贤的 哲学思想 塑 造 着 这 家公司。“从一 开始，我 就 梦想 着为了人 的尊严 而生活、而工 作。”Cucinelli说 道，“ 我 始 终认 为，创造 利润 的 同时不应 忽视 人 的尊严；我们应 当做一些有意 义 的事情，致力于将人 放 到我们 工作 和公司的 中心 位 置。” Solomeo— — Cucinelli妻 子出生 的小 镇— — 同样对 该 公司的定位 起 到了关 键的作 用。1982年，Cucinelli被 这 座小 镇 的魅力 征 服， 并 搬 来了这 里；三年之后，得 益于品牌 的日益 成 功，他买下了镇 上 的城 堡。Cucinelli在 Solomeo 实现了他的人 道 主义 愿景：多年来，他不断投 资 和开发 这 座小 镇，致力于 促 进 知识传 播，同时 保 护当地 水 土与历史 遗 迹。如 今，Solomeo有了 一座由当地 工 匠 大师 建 造 的 艺 术 论 坛，以 及一 globalblue.cn

座曾引来众多国际与 本土艺人 登台的剧院。受 John Ruskin和 William Morris启发创立 的 Solomeo艺 术与手工艺学 校训练出一批 批 裁 缝、 针 织、纺织、农 业 及石工等 领域 的未 来 工 匠，并 让他们 对自己所从事 的事业深感自豪。 Brunello Cucinelli的博 学 让他的雇 员们 深 受 鼓 舞，他 频频 激 励 他们 在手工劳 动的同时不 忘 求索知识，这 正是 Cucinelli喜 欢 用 “当代 工 匠” 一 词 来形 容这 些匠 人 的原因之一。“ 我 经 常 举 例 说，当代 工 匠是 那 些既 精 通剪刀也了解 激 光 切割 的人。我 还 乐于想象 新 一代 工 匠不 仅掌 握 了技 术，能有意 识 地、谨慎 入微 地、有条不 紊 地 运用技 术，还 愿意 翻 开 一本 好 书，与过去最伟 大的灵魂 交流。” 确 保将 手工 技 艺传承 给 未 来 工 匠之余，Cucinelli还 致力于 传 播 知识，以期 “ 给 子 孙后 辈留下一些 超 越 物质存 在 之限制的有 意义 的东西。” 人 道 主义 原则帮助塑 造了该 公司的 精神 气 质，而品牌 的无限 成 功则 要归 功 于 Cucinelli与 生俱 来的商业手腕。从一 开始，他 就 用色 彩 缤 纷 的羊 绒 产品填 补了市场 缺口；他 从中积 攒了 雄 厚 的资本，用以打造他的公司。 此 外，扎 根在 Solomeo的Brunello Cucinelli 也 得以为产品印上令人梦寐以求的 “意 大 利制 造” 标 签 — — Cucinelli十分注 重 这一质 量标 准。“这 意 味 着才华、优 雅、时尚、对生 活 的积极 态度、对工作 的尊 敬、对手工 技 艺的珍 视、对 我们 领 土和自己 土 地 的归属感。但 是，这与民 族 主义 或 其 他 类似的意 识 形 态无关。恰 恰相 反，当代 的都 市人都是 某 种 价值 观 念的使者，深 知做个好人、关 爱他 人 永 远是 最 重要 的。”Cucinelli巧妙 地 将翁 布里 亚 地 区的针 织传 统与来自中 亚 的羊 绒 融 合在一 起。正是 悠久 的传 统、 优 质的 材料与对生 产者的 深 切 敬 意 三者结合， 使得Brunello Cucinelli如此 无与伦比。“ 在 价值 方面，我们 显 著 改变了消费 者对羊 绒 这 样 一 种 珍 贵而 独特的面 料的认 知，同时也帮助人们 认 识 到了昂贵服 装 和有价值 服 装 之间的区 别。” 他评论 道。 极 少有奢 侈服 装品牌能在 经 营的过 程中秉 持如此充 满 哲理与博爱 精神的态度。“正如伟 大的俄 罗斯作 家帕维 尔.弗洛林斯 基（Pavel Florenskij）所 说：‘你应该 乐于抬头 凝 视 天 空与 群星。’这句话尤其适合 我们 的时代，日常生活 的纷 纷扰 扰似乎让 大家忽视了我们周围的 深 邃 之美。”这位品牌 创始人说 道。Brunello Cucinelli并不 满足于 建 立一 个羊 绒帝国，他 还 成 功 地帮助人们 看到这个 世界 的美 好。

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 58: THE ART OF THE SHOE ОБУВЬ КАК ИСКУССТВО

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114: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购 物区中的30多万家商店消费 时，环 球 蓝 联 购 物 退 税 服务（Global Blue Tax Free Shopping）为 您 节省购 物 开 销。 每 年 约有两千六百多万名旅客 享用 环 球 蓝 联 (Global Blue）的购 物 退 税 服务，何 不加入他们 的行列？您只需 在购 物 时留意 环 球 蓝 联 (Global Blue）的蓝 星标 志，或 直 接问询 商家是 否 提 供 环 球 蓝 联（Global Blue）退 税 服务，然后 遵 循以 下简单 的退 税流程即可： 1. 购物 消费 无论 您 在 哪里购 物，请向商家索要 环 球 蓝 联 退 税 表格 (Global Blue Tax Free Form)。 2. 申领 退 税 在 您 返 程离境前，请 前往 海 关柜台，请海 关 工 作人员在 退 税 表格上 盖章，然后再到 环 球 蓝 联 的退 税 点领 取 退 税 款。 联 系方式: taxfree@ globalblue. com +421 232 111 111 最低消费 €154.95即可申请 退 税，能 够 节省高达 15.5%的商品购买 价。请注 意：您收到的退 税 款 是 增 值 税减去环 球 蓝 联 的手 续费。如 果您 选 择 现 金 退 税，部 分机 场 还将以 退 税申请 表为单位 收取 现 金 退 税手 续费。 Сверху: Pollini осень-зима 2018/19

Люсинда Тернер рассказывает, почему ярлык Made in Italy заставляет сильнее биться сердца поклонников обуви Итальянская обувь вызывает восхищение у миллионов людей. Многие специально ищут ярлык Made in Italy даже покупая обувь в дорогих бутиках Парижа или роскошных универмагах Стамбула. Этот знак качества признан во всем мире, и любой товар, на который он нанесен, автоматически приобретает особый статус. Но в чем же секрет итальянской обуви? Как итальянским брендам удается создавать самые модные туфли на рынке? Ответ на эти вопросы спрятан в маленьком городе Сан-Мауро-Пасколи на севере Италии. В 1950-е концентрация умелых обувщиков здесь так выросла, что город стремительно прославился. Одним из брендов, которые выросли на этой благодатной почве, стал Pollini. Предприятие развивалось, коллекции следовали новым трендам, но качественное мастерство оставалось неизменным. Ремесло и любовь к своему делу лежат в основе Pollini.

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Возможно, поэтому компания избегает чрезмерного использования технологий в производственном процессе. Работа над каждой парой, которую покупатель видит в миланском магазине на Via della Spiga, состоит из 135 операций. Начиная от дизайна и заканчивая раскройкой кожи – все самые сложные процедуры делаются вручную. Машина задействуется на сборке готовой обуви, но даже здесь профессиональные сборщики вручную доводят результат до совершенства.

Pollini создает самую разную обувь – от практичной до авангардной. Особого внимания в коллекции осень-зима 2018-19 заслуживают мюли из нежно-розового меха, серебристые сапоги выше колена и туфли из металлических шнуров, созданные специально для вечеринок. Есть в коллекции и нестареющая классика: ботильоны с пряжкой и традиционные лоферы на каблуке. Всем своим творчеством Pollini заявляет, что итальянское мастерство может стать основой для воплощения любой фантазии. Сан-Мауро-Пасколи стал родиной и для бренда Sergio Rossi. Его основатель Серджио Росси родился в этом городе в 1935 году в семье обувщика. В 1966 году он открыл собственную компанию, которая прославилась в 1970е благодаря сотрудничеству с крупными итальянскими брендами Dolce & Gabbana и Versace. С тех пор Sergio Rossi занимает лидирующие позиции на рынке, его обувь носят Наоми Кэмпбелл, Сара Джессика Паркер и Бейонсе. В 2018 Sergio Rossi представил коллекцию SR Milano, которую можно узнать по заостренным каблукам и металлической пластинке с логотипом. Этот дизайн легко адаптируется к туфлям-лодочкам, ботильонам и легким сандалиям, и у него есть все шансы стать культовым и войти в историю. Фабрика Sergio Rossi располагается в Сан-Мауро-Пасколи с того момента, как ее покинул первый ботинок в 1968 году. И хотя в 2018 компания отмечает свое пятидесятилетие, она ни на мгновение не задерживается в прошлом. Во всем, что делает бренд, легко уживаются традиция и новация. И результат говорит сам за себя: до 1600 пар туфель Sergio Rossi производятся ежедневно на той же самой globalblue.cn | globalblue.ru

фабрике, где все когда-то начиналось. Как и Sergio Rossi, еще один итальянский бренд Casadei начал свою историю в СанМауро-Пасколи. В 1958 году Квинто и Флора Касадей основали скромную мастерскую, которая изначально специализировались на сандалиях. Но уже в 1960-е предприятие разрослось благодаря огромной популярности движения Made in Italy. Чезаре Касадей, сын основателей, вернулся в город в середине 1980-х и стал активно участвовать в делах родительской компании, а в 1994 стал ее креативным директором. В наши дни о Casadei говорят и знают во всем мире. Туфли Blade стали культовыми практически сразу: их каблук настолько тонок, что кажется оптическим обманом. Без огромного опыта и высочайшего мастерства это было бы просто невозможно. Умение сочетать модный дизайн и техническое совершенство принесло заслуженную славу Casadei. В итоге покупатели получают качество

От дизайна до раскроя кожи – все самые сложные процессы делаются вручную и стиль в каждой паре обуви, и это главная награда для Чезаре Касадей: «В тот момент, когда я вижу женщину в наших туфлях, я вижу, как воплощается магия, как одна пара способна передать всю страстную преданность ремеслу, которую я всегда вкладываю в наше фантастическое дело». Casadei всегда предлагает нечто большее: на обуви могут появляться кристаллы Swarovski, кожаные цветы, пышная тюлевая отделка, высококачественная резьба по коже или блестящие элементы. Миланские бутики готовы радовать вас красивыми туфлями на каждый день или сверкающими парами для праздника. Все, что производится в небольшом итальянском городке Сан-Мауро-Пасколи, способно преодолевать границы привычного и одновременно бережно сохранять лучшие традиции мастерства. Стильные и красиво сделанные туфли – что может быть более итальянским?

68: FIERCE FEMININITY СИЛЬНАЯ ЖЕНСТВЕННОСТЬ Ханна Льюис рассказывает, как миланские дизайнеры работают с современной концепцией женской силы Итальянские дизайнеры не могли оставить без внимания тему гендерной политики, которую так горячо обсуждают в обществе. Сознательно или нет, но многие из них посвятили коллекции осень-зима 2018-19 размышлению, каково это – быть влиятельной современной женщиной. Некоторые бренды, такие как Roberto Cavalli, Max Mara и Prada, утверждают, что мода становится источником воодушевления для женщин. Для Roberto Cavalli образ сильной женщины связан с блеском и красотой. Роберто Кавалли всегда с особым трепетом относился к коже, анималистичным принтам и, что особенно примечательно, облегающим силуэтам. Во второй коллекции для бренда креативный директор Пол Сарридж соединил излюбленные

Сверху: Roberto Cavalli осень-зима 2018/19

приемы Кавалли со своим собственным стилем: свободный крой и андрогинные силуэты он отработал в мужских коллекциях для Jil Sander и Acne Studios. В результате облегающие платья с рюшами дополнялись байкерскими куртками, причем и то, и другое сочеталось с леопардовым принтом. Знаковым в коллекции можно считать закрытое, полупрозрачное белое платье в пол с высоким воротом. Таким образом, сквозной темой коллекции стало умение балансировать между крайностями. За кулисами показа Сарридж объяснял, что для него шарм и привлекательность означают уверенность, а уверенность невозможна без комфорта. Вещи Roberto Cavalli помогают женщинам чувствовать себя уверенно и удобно, и неважно, какая это одежда – яркая и откровенная или лаконичная и скромная. Вселять уверенность – специализация модного дома Max Mara. Еще в 1980-е он многое сделал для оформления сильного женского гардероба. В этом сезоне дизайнер Ян Гриффитс столкнул элегантный крой в мужском стиле с панк-роком – еще одной модной чертой 80-х. Поэтому рядом с классикой Max Mara (например, юбка-карандаш и шерстяное пальто) появились истинно панковские элементы – клетчатая ткань и кожа. Причем кожа используется практически во всем: от ремней и перчаток до пиджаков и даже полностью кожаных образов. Панковский и деловой стили, объясняет Гриффитс, давали женщинам новую власть и новые возможности через одежду. Пусть и разными способами: панк помогал выделиться из толпы, а официальная одежда придавала статус в офисе. Соединяя их вместе, Max Mara подчеркивает многоплановость женской силы сегодня, ее потенциал. Тонкости жизни современной женщины стали центральной темой у Prada. Миучча Прада говорила за кулисами показа о «борьбе между сохранением женственности и обретением силы». В этом отношении ее коллекция пророчит интересное будущее, где женственная мягкость питает женскую силу. Тонкие тюлевые платья с объемными бантами на шее дополняли корсажи из светоотражающего материала и куртки защитных цветов, а иногда их полностью закрывали объемные плащи из технологичных тканей. Аксессуаром для многих комплектов

ФОТО: © GORUNWAY.COM

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стали корпоративные бейджи, как будто Prada готовит женщин к любой социальной роли, какую только может предложить современный мир. Коллекцию Миуччи Прада можно интерпретировать как образное воплощение многогранной жизни женщины. В коллекции осень-зима 2018-19 для Gucci Алессандро Микеле пошел еще дальше. Она посвящена тому, как люди проявляют свою личность через моду, поэтому подиум превратился в лабораторию, а модели стали плодом ее творчества. Стайлинг на показе Gucci был порой экстремальным (некоторые модели держали в руках копии собственных голов в духе доктора Франкенштейна), тем не менее, сами вещи удобны и легко сочетаются друг с другом. Блестящее платье с прозрачными оборками уравновешено кроссовками, но будет смотреться идеально и с каблуками на вечернем событии. Объединяющим акцентом стали сумки, которые легко впишутся в любой гардероб. Эта коллекция способна быть такой, какой захочет женщина – собственно, как и само понятие женственности. Если говорить о женщине, личность которой неразрывно связана с ее модным обликом, то это Жаклин Кеннеди Онассис. И именно о ней думал Джереми Скот, когда искал вдохновение для новой коллекции Moschino. Он говорил о невероятной силе, которую Онассис демонстрировала после потери супруга. Как она могла сохранять внешнюю безупречность и при этом переживать сильную боль? Скотт называет ее инопланетянкой, и эту идею он активно развивает в коллекции. На подиуме ироничная теория заговора обыгрывалась в образах, которые вдохновлены неповторимым стилем Джеки. Классические силуэты 1960-х расцвечены насыщенными цветами и принтами в стиле поп-арт. Для Скотта они говорят о бесконечных возможностях неизведанного космоса. В целом, Moschino всегда благосклонен к игре и юмору, но в этой коллекции было и нечто большее. Онассис использовала моду как защиту от внешнего мира и как источник силы. Она конструировала свою личность и черпала из этого энергию. Какую бы историю ваша одежда ни рассказывала в этом сезоне, она наверняка будет о женственной силе. globalblue.ru

74: A GENTLE TOUCH НЕЖНОЕ ПРИКОСНОВЕНИЕ Кашемировая компания итальянского дизайнера Брунелло Кучинелли основана на гуманистических принципах. О своем революционном подходе к модному бизнесу он рассказал Джинджер Роуз Кларк Холмы итальянской провинции Перуджа, средневековый замок, окруженный живописной деревушкой, и умиротворяющий, словно с открытки, пейзаж... Все это Соломео – итальянский городок, где расположилась штаб-квартира кашемирового бренда Brunello Cucinelli. Для многих это имя ассоциируется с уютными вязаными вещами на каждый день, детально продуманными костюмами и стильной одеждой для отдыха. Но при близком знакомстве открывается глубоко гуманистическая философия компании, которая лежит в основе ее качественных и красивых коллекций. Брунелло Кучинелли родился в 1953 году в городке Кастель-Ригоне. Его отношение к жизни и работе сформировалось еще в детстве: «Я видел, как моего отца унижали и обижали на работе, – объясняет дизайнер. – До сих пор помню его выражение лица: он приходил домой обессиленным, но ни слова не говорил о своих переживаниях. И я пообещал себе, что сделаю все возможное, чтобы ни один человек не был унижен на работе. Хотя тогда я еще не представлял, чем буду заниматься в жизни». Это мировоззрение легло в основу небольшой компании, которую Кучинелли основал в 1978 году и которая специализировалась на кашемире. Философские труды таких великих мыслителей, как Сократ, Кант, Руссо и Марк Аврелий, определили стратегию бренда на следующие четыре десятилетия: «С самого начала у меня была мечта жить и работать во имя человеческого достоинства, – говорит Кучинелли. – Я всегда считал, что никакая прибыль невозможна без должного отношения к достоинству. Мы

способны предпринять нечто такое, чтобы на первом плане всей нашей деятельности, всей компании стоял человек». Соломео тоже сыграл важную роль в становлении компании. Кучинелли поддался обаянию этого городка, в котором родилась его жена, и переехал туда в 1982 году. Еще через три года он приобрел там замок благодаря стремительному успеху бренда. Его гуманистическая философия расцвела в Соломео: он инвестировал в город, способствовал его развитию и вкладывался в образование и сохранение пейзажей и памятников. Теперь в городе есть свой центр искусств, построенный мастерами Перуджи, и театр, на сцену которого поднимаются итальянские и иностранные артисты. Школа искусств и ремесел Соломео, вдохновленная Джоном Рескиным и Уильямом Моррисом, обучает будущих специалистов в портняжном деле, вязании, текстиле, сельском хозяйстве и каменных работах, а заодно прививает студентам чувство гордости за свое ремесло. Пример эрудированного работодателя вдохновляет и сотрудников Brunello Cucinelli. В этой компании поощряется всякое желание развивать знания и сочетать работу руками с тренировкой ума. Чтобы определить род деятельности своих мастеров,

Кучинелли использует термин «современные ремесленники»: «Я всегда повторяю, что современный ремесленник – это тот, кто может использовать и ножницы, и лазерную технику. Мне также нравится думать, что новое поколение не только совершенствуется в технологиях и использует их осознанно, осторожно и взвешенно, но и способно открыть хорошую книгу и обратиться к величайшим мыслителям прошлого». Кучинелли считает, что мастера должны передавать не только практические навыки ручной работы, но и знания, чтобы «оставить будущим поколениям нечто значительное и превосходящее их физическое существование». Гуманистические принципы помогли сформировать философию компании, а деловая интуиция Кучинелли – достичь большого успеха. Его яркие кашемировые вещи прочно заняли свою нишу на рынке, и это позволило ему заложить прочный финансовый фундамент для роста компании. Соломео также дает возможность Brunello Cucinelli использовать бирку Made in Italy, о которой Кучинелли высокого мнения: «Этот ярлык означает гениальность, элегантность, стиль, позитивное отношение к жизни, уважение к работе, пиетет к мастерству и верность нашей собственной земле. А еще в нем нет ничего общего с национализмом или подобными идеологиями. Наоборот, современные космополиты становятся проводниками вечных ценностей и знают, что в первую очередь нужно быть хорошим человеком и заботиться о других». Кучинелли изобретательно применяет умбрийские традиции вязания к кашемиру – материалу из Средней Азии. Сочетание наследия, качественных тканей и глубокого уважения к мастерам делает Brunello Cucinelli неповторимым. «Мы сделали значительный вклад в то, чтобы покупатели воспринимали кашемир по-другому – как драгоценную и уникальную ткань. И еще мы помогли людям осознать разницу между дорогими и ценными вещами», – замечает он. В мире не так уж много брендов одежды со столь глубоким философским и филантропическим подходом. «Великий русский мыслитель Павел Флоренский однажды написал:

Сверху: пиджак из коллекции Brunello Cucinelli осень-зима 2018/19

ФОТО: FRANCESCO STELITANO

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“Вы должны всегда стремиться поднять свой взгляд к небесам и посмотреть на звезды”. Это особенно важно в наше время, когда в суете повседневной жизни люди перестают видеть настоящую красоту, окружающую их», – говорит основатель компании. Брунелло Кучинелли было мало кашемировой империи. Он решил открывать людям глаза на красоту этого мира – и преуспел во всем.

114: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С TAX FREE

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить Tax Free формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.95 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. globalblue.ru | globalblue.com

日本 語

58: THE ART OF THE SHOE 靴のアート

フットウェアのファンがドキドキ胸躍ら せるイタリアの靴。メイド・イン・イタリ アのレーベルはいったいどこがそう特 別なのだろう。その鍵を握っていそう な小さな町をルシンダ・ターナーが訪 ねた。 イタリアのフットウェアは世界中で愛され、パリ の高級ブティックであろうとイスタンブールの豪 華デパートであろうと、目の肥えたショッピング 客はイタリアの名門メーカーの靴を探している。 イタリア製品の品質基準は世界的に認識されて いて、 「メイド・イン・イタリア」のラベルのつい た製品は特選品扱いなのだ。それにしても、イタ リアのフットウェアをとりわけ垂涎の的にしてい るのは何なのだろう。この国の老舗ブランドはど うやって市場の最先端を行く靴を次々と創り出 してきたのだろう。 これらの問いの答えは、イタリア北部の町サ ン・マウロ・パスコリにある。ここは、有能な靴職 人が多く住んでいたおかげで1950年代に靴の 産地として一躍有名になった。才能ある職人が 集まっている土地柄を活かして生まれたブラン ドの一つがポリーニだ。 事業が拡大し、デザインは時 代と共に移り 変わっても、高品質を追求するポリーニの職人 魂は変わらない。靴は一足一足が135以上もの プロセスを経て、ミラノのスピーガ通りにある同 レーベルの旗艦 店に並ぶ。ポリーニでは、職人 技と創作の源である熱い思いをとても大 切にし ており、工場でもむやみにテクノロジーを使わな い。デザインからレザーカットまで、込み入った 作業の多くは手仕事だ。組み立てのプロセスで 機 械を使う時でも、熟練の組み立て職人が手で 調整して完璧な出来にしている。 ポリーニのデザインは実用的なものからア ヴァンギャルドなものまで様々。2018/19年秋冬 コレクションの目玉は、パステルピンクの毛皮の ミュールとシルバーのオーバーニーブーツ、陽気 なパーティにぴったりのメタリックなヒモサンダ ルだ。ポリーニの名品、バックル付きアンクルブ ーツや大人しいヒール付きローファーはもちろ

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ん、しっかりしたイタリアの職人技を土台にすれ ばほどどんなデザインでも可能なことを、このブ ランドは証明している。 サン・マウロ・パスコリ発のブランドはポリー ニだけではない。1935年にこの町で生まれたセ ルジオ・ロッシは地元の職人を父に持ち、1966 年に自分の名を冠したフットウェアレーベルをこ こで立ち上げた。1970年代にドルチェ＆ガッバー ナ、ヴェルサーチといった有力イタリアンブランド とコラボしたことで名声を得たセルジオ・ロッシ は、以来この国のフットウェアシーンになくてはな らない存在だ。今ではナオミ・キャンベルやサ ラ・ジェシカ・パーカー、ビヨンセも愛好するブラ ンドになった。 2018年には尖ったヒールとブランド名の入っ たメタルプレートが特徴の「sr M I L A NO」コレ クションを発表している。パンプス、ブーツ、スリ

々今シーズンのファッ ションストーリーは 女性パワー

写真: MAURIZIOBEUCCI.COM

ングバックシューズがあるが、この独特のデザイ ンは間違いなく同レーベルの代表作になるだろ う。 セルジオ・ロッシブランドの靴を工場から初 出荷した1968年からずっとサン・マウロ・パスコ リで生産し、2018年には50周年の節目を迎える

セルジオ・ロッシだが、過去の呪 縛など微 塵もな い。このブランドでは伝統と革新がごく自然に共 存していて、それがうまくいっているのは、50年 前と全く同じ工場から毎日1600足のセルジオ・ ロッシが送り出されていることを見れば明らか だ。 セルジオ・ロッシの成功がサン・マウロ・パス コリのおかげだったように、有名イタリアンレー ベルのカサディもこの町に育てられた。クイント・ カサディとフローラ・カサディが1958年にこの地 で設立した小さなサンダル製造会社は、1960年 代の「メイド・イン・イタリア」運動が追い風とな って急速な成長を遂げる。創業者の息子チェー ザレ・カサディが1980年代半ばにこの町に戻り、 両親の会社に積極的に関与するようになって 1994年にはクリエイティブディレクターに就任。 今やカサディは世界中で旋風を巻き起こし ている。このブランドの「ブレード」というデザイ ンは、世界中でカサディとわかる認知度を誇る。 素晴らしくスレンダーなヒールは目の錯覚かと思 うほど。まさに靴作りの匠ならではの創作だ。カ サディはモダンで前衛的なデザインと優れた技 術を組み合わせ、どんなデザインでも高い品質と 芸術性を提供している。チェーザレ・カサディは 「うちで作った靴を履いている女性を見ると報わ れる」という。 「この素晴らしい仕事に込めてき た丹精、注いできた情熱が一足の靴という形で 伝わる瞬間、まさに靴の魔法です。」カサディの 靴には、スワロフスキーのクリスタル、革細工の 花、華やかなチュールのディテール、高い技術を 要するレザーカット、目を見張るような構造的特 徴など、いつも何かしら特別な工夫がある。

上 : 入 念な製 作 過 程を経て完 成 するセルジオ・ロッシの靴

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ミラノの華麗なブティックを巡る買い物客の お目当てがシックな常履きの靴であろうと煌びや かなパーティ用のお洒落靴であろうと、イタリア のあまり知られていないひとつの町で生み出され る靴は、伝統の職人技を大 切にしつつ常に限界 を押し広げている。スタイリッシュで美しく作られ た靴。それ以上イタリアンなものがあるだろう か。

68: FIERCE FEMININITY 女らしさと力強さと

今シーズン、ミラノの有力デザイナーたち が現代女性のパワーというコンセプトを 追求している。ハンナ・ルイスがレポート する。 2018/19年秋冬シーズンは、ジェンダー・ポリティ クスが国際ニュースになる社会 情勢の中、イタリ アンデザインの大御所たちが、意識してかどうか はともかく、力強い現代女性であることの意味を 追究したコレクションを揃って発表している。ロ ベルト・カヴァリやマックスマーラ、プラダといっ たブランドが、高級ファッションそのものが女性 のエンパワーメントの一つの形だと主張している のだ。 ロベルト・カヴァリは昔から、華やかでグラ マラスな魅力と強い女性像を結び付けてきたブ ランドだ。レーベル名になっている創業者のロベ ルト・カヴァリは、アニマルプリントやレザーを好 み、中でも露出の多いシルエットを得意とする。 ポール・サリッジは同レーベルで2度目となるコレ クションで、創業者の考案による代表的な装飾 をふんだんに取り入れ、以前ジル・サンダーやア クネ・ストゥディオズで作ったメンズウェアの特 徴だった緩やかなテーラリングと両性的なライン といった要素とブレンドしてみせた。シャーリング のボディコンドレスには四角張ったバイカージャ ケットを重ね、柄はお揃いのヒョウ柄プリント。 白いドレスはハイネックで裾すれすれの長さ、そ の一部がシアーになっている。このコレクション は、いろいろな意味でバランスがポイントだ。 ショーの舞台裏でサリッジは、自分にとって グラマラスで目を引くファッションはイコール自 信であり、その自信は快適さ抜きには持ち得ない と説明してくれた。ロベルト・カヴァリの服は、そ れが大胆で露出度の高いデザインであろうと控 えめなものであろうと、着る女性に自信と快適さ を同時に感じさせる。 globalblue.com

女性の強気を引き出すというのは、1980年代 のパワードレッシングを確立する上で大きな役割 を果たしたマックスマーラでもお馴染みのコンセ プトだ。デザイナーのイアン・グリフィスは今シー ズン、80年代の同ブランドを象徴する粋で男らし いといってもいいほどのテーラリングと、同時代の ファッションのもう一つの特徴であるパンクロッ クを合体させている。ペンシルスカートやウール のコートなど、このブランドお馴染みのアイテムに 加え、パンクファッションに欠かせないタータンと レザーを取り入れたのだ。特にレザーはベルト、 手袋、ジャケットなどでほぼどの装いにも組み入 れられ、レザー尽くしのルックスもいくつかあっ た。 グリフィスによれば、パンクとパワードレッシ ングは一方は群衆の中で目立つ手段、もう一方は 職場でのステータスをもたらす手段というふうに アプローチは違うが、共に女性に新たな権威とチ ャンスをもたらした二大ファッションだ。それらを 合体させる際、マックスマーラは現代女性のエン パワーメントの複 雑さと共にポテンシャルをも際 立たせている。 現代社会で女性であることの機 微はプラダの 中心テーマでもあり、デザイナーのミウッチヤ・プ ラダは舞台裏で「女らしくありながら強い存在で あることの難しさ」を語っている。コレクションで は、女性の強さとソフトさの両方を大 切にした将 来ビジョンを体現した。デリケートなチュールのド レスは首の後ろの大きなリボンが特徴で、高視認 性の素材やミリタリーカラーのボディスの下からの ぞかせたり上から垂らしたり、高機能性素材のた っぷりしたジャケットにほぼ隠れるように合わせ たり。仕上げに会社員のI Dバッジを付けたルック スが多く、現代の生活で女性が果たすどんな役 割にも応じられるようなラインナップだった。 ミウッチヤ・プラダの作品が 複 雑な女性のア イデンティティを誇張して表現したものだとした ら、グッチのアレッサンドロ・ミケーレはそれをさ らに一段飛躍させ、人がファッションを通じてい かにアイデンティティを構築するかを2018/19年 秋冬コレクションで追究した。キャットウォークは ラボと化し、新開発のモデルたちが登場した。グ ッチのキャットウォークは、モデルの一部がフラン ケンシュタイン博士の実 験 室から生まれたかのよ うに自分の頭のレプリカを手にして現れるなどス タイリングは極端だが、服そのものはすごく着や すい。ブランドの成功がその証だ。シアーなラッフ ルが付いた光沢あるドレスはスニーカーを合わせ てドレスダウンしていたが、ヒールを合わせれば 夜のイベントにぴったりだろう。モデルが披露した

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作品の数々の中には、どんなワードローブにも合 いそうなテーラードの服もあった。このコレクショ ンも「女性像」と同じく見方次第ということだろ う。 アイデンティティとファッションチョイスが切 っても切り離せない一人の女性がいる。ジャクリ ーン・ケネディ・オナシスだ。その彼女をインスピ レーションとしてジェレミー・スコットが創り出し たのが、今シーズンのモスキーノコレクション。夫 を失った後にジャクリーンが見せたとてつもない 強さについてスコットは話している。彼女はあん なに辛い思いをしながら、いったいどうやって完 璧な容姿をキープできたのか。その答え、少なく ともスコットが模索した答えは、彼女は実はエイ リアンだったというもの。 この冗談めかした説をキャットウォーク上に 展開したショーは、ジャクリーンの代表的スタイ ルに大いに影響を受けたルックスが次々登場 し、1960年代を代表するシルエットが大胆な色 とポップアートプリントで蘇った。それらはスコッ トにとって、見果てぬ宇宙の限りない可能性を象 徴している。 モスキーノのアプローチは遊び心とユーモア を前面に押し出しているが、そうした楽しさの裏 にはシリアスなメッセージが込められている。ジ ャクリーン・オナシスのファッションは盾と剣の両 方で、彼女はファッションで作り上げた架空の自 分像から力を得ることができたというのだ。今シ ーズン、自分のストーリーを装いで語るなら、女 性パワーが漲る服を選びたい。

上 : カサ ディの2 0 1 8 / 1 9 年 秋冬コレクション

74: A GENTLE TOUCH 優しい肌ざわり

ブルネロ・クチネリのカシミア会社は人 間主義の原則に基づいている。イタリア 人デザイナーのクチネリが、ファッション ビジネスへの画期的アプローチについて ジンジャー・ローズ・クラークに語った。 イタリアはペルージャ州の丘の上、美しい小村に 中世の城がそびえる。絵葉書にしたいくらいチャ ーミングなこの風景がソロメオ、高級カシミアブ ランド「ブルネロ・クチネリ」の本拠地だ。このブ ランドを知らない人なら、ブルネロ・クチネリは着 心地抜群のニット、丹念に造形する仕立て、スタ イリッシュなレジャーウェア、美しいライフスタイ ルコレクションのブランドといえばいいだろう。た だ、よくよく知れば、そうした高級品の裏に、深く 根付いた人間主義的精神を基に築かれた会社が ある。 ブランド名と同名のデザイナー、ブルネロ・ク チネリは1953年にカステル・リゴネで生まれた。 彼の理念が芽生えたのは子供の頃のことだ。 「 僕にとって全ての始まりは、父が職場で侮辱さ れ、感情を害して帰ってきたのを見た時でした。 その時の父の顔を今でも覚えています。疲れ切っ て帰宅して、それでも不満を漏らすことはありま せんでした。その時、自分に誓ったのです。自分 が将来何をするかはわかりませんでしたが、人が 職場で侮辱されるようなことは決してないように しようと。」 この心構えが、1978年にクチネリが設立した 小さなカシミア会社の創立理念の一つになった。 ソクラテス、カント、ルソー、マルクス・アウレリウ スといった偉大な思想家の哲学と共に、会社を 40年にわたって形づくってきた企業精神だ。 「人 間の尊厳のために生き、働きたいというのが当初 からの夢でした」とクチネリはいう。 「人間の尊厳 をないがしろにして利益を上げるべきではないと いう考えが常にありました。人を仕事と会社の中 心に据えるために何か意義あることができると考 えたのです。」 クチネリの妻の故郷ソロメオも、会社の本質 を明らかにする上で大きな役割を果たした。この 町の魅力に誘われて1982年にソロメオに移り住 み、ブランドが成功し事業が成長したおかげで3 年後には城を購入した。クチネリは構想していた 人間主義的な企業をソロメオで実現する。知識 の拡大と土地や建造物の保全を目的として、町

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に投資し、開発を徐々に進めてきた。今では地元 地域の熟練工が建てたアートフォーラムが自慢 で、そこにある劇場では国内外の様々なアーティ ストがステージに立っている。ジョン・ラスキンと ウィリアム・モリスにインスピレーションを得て開 校したソロメオ職人技術学校では、仕立て、ニッ トウェア、テキスタイル、農業、石造建築といった 幅広い分野で未来の職人を訓練し、仕事に強い 誇りの念を持つよう教え込んでいる。 博学の雇用主に刺激を受けたブルネロ・クチ ネリの従業員は、手仕事と知識のバランスをとる よう大いに奨励される。クチネリが自社の職人を 「現代アルチザン」という言葉で呼ぶのを好むの は、これが理由の一つだ。 「現代アルチザンと は、例えばハサミとレーザーカッターの両方を使 いこなせる人をいうのだと、常々いっています。テ クノロジーを習得して意識的かつ慎重にバランス よく使うだけでなく、名著をひも解いて過去の偉 大な精神に触れることにも積極的な新世代にな って欲しいなと思います。」クチネリは手仕事の 技を次世代へしっかりと伝える傍ら、 「物理的存 在の限界を超えた何か意義あるものをこれから の世代に引き継げるように」知識の伝達にも余 念がない。 人間主義的原則に特徴づけられる同社の気 風もそうだが、ビジネスに対するクチネリの直感 的アプローチもブランド快進撃の秘訣といってい いだろう。始めから市場のギャップを狙ってカラ フルなカシミア製品を投入したことで、強固な財 務基盤を確立し、それを土台に会社を築き上げる ことに成功したのだ。 しかも、ソロメオを本拠とするブルネロ・クチ ネリは「メイド・イン・イタリア」のお墨付きの製 品を提供している。同社ではこの品質基準をとて も重視している。 「それは天才、エレガンス、スタ イル、人生に対する前向きな姿勢、仕事への敬 意、職人技に対する敬意、自国への愛着、この土 地への愛着を意味するからです。ナショナリズム やその類の思想とは全く関係ありません。むしろ その逆です。現代的で国際感覚を持つ人こそが、 特定の価値観を広めるアンバサダーになる。そう いう人は良い人間であり、他人への思いやりを持 つことが常に一番大事だと知っているのです。」 クチネリはウンブリア州のニットの伝統を、中央 アジアの素材であるカシミアと巧みに融合させて きた。このように伝統と高品質素材、製品の作り 手に対する深い敬意が合わさって、ブルネロ・ク チネリの製品をユニークなものにしている。 「当 社は、価値という意味でとても貴重でユニークな ファブリック、カシミアに対するお客様の印象を globalblue.com

ガラリと変えました。そして、高額な服と高価な服 の違いについて意識を高める上でも大きく貢献し てきました」と、クチネリ。 こうした哲学的、慈善的アプローチで経営さ れている高級衣料ブランドは少ない。 「偉大なる ロシアの著述家パーヴェル・フロレンスキイ曰く、 『常に天を仰ぎ星を見つめる気持ちがなくてはな らない』。人が日常生活の慌ただしさに紛れて周 りにある深遠な美が見えなくなってしまっている 現代、なおさら胸に響く言葉です。」カシミアで 世界を制したブルネロ・クチネリは、この世の美し さに対して人々の目を開かせることにも成功して いる。

114: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

海 外で のお買い物が免 税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利 用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街 にある30万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得 になります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブル ーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用くださ い。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を 探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グロー バル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のス テップを踏むだけです。 1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免 税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってく ださい。 2. 還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にス タンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルー の還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。 お問い合わせ: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.95以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最 高15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い 戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数 料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承 ください。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しを ご希望の場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免税書類 ごとに課されます。

SOUVENIR

This year heritage Italian brand Fratelli Rossetti celebrates 50 years of its iconic Brera loafer, a mainstay of Milanese style since it was first designed in 1968. The introduction of this tasselled loafer left a lasting impression on the global fashion scene, especially as it was one of the first men’s shoe styles to also be made for women. To celebrate its bicentenary the shoe, which takes its name from Milan’s on-trend, creative Brera district, has been given a birthday makeover. Available, as always, Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 114

for both men and women, the colourfully embroidered design features the style name in reverse, as well as an abundance of exquisitely intricate details. The Brera loafer is an appropriately vibrant reminder of this vibrant city. lt Fratelli Rossetti loafers, €650, Fratelli Rossetti, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1650, fratellirossetti.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 98

PHOTO: © PAOLO MARCHESI

50 YEARS OF STYLE

RELAX. REFRESH. REFUND. Our Global Blue Lounges are the perfect place to relax during your time in Milan, Rome and Venice. Situated in the heart of the cities’ luxury shopping districts, the lounges are a haven for Tax Free Shopping.

Find us at: First floor, Via Santo Spirito 5, Milan Piazza di Spagna 29, Rome Piscina San Moisè, 2056 Venice Monday to Saturday, 10am to 7:30pm

BY INVITATION ONLY

SHOP TAX FREE