SHOP Milan AW19

MILAN | 米兰 | МИЛАН | ミラノ

MILAN Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2019/20

DISCOVER MILAN: our insiders’ guide to the best luxury destinations in Italy’s fashion capital

EDITOR’S LETTER Essential Info For the very latest information, scan the QR code on this page to head straight to our website, globalblue.com, and find everything you need to navigate the best shopping destinations on earth.

For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the SHOP TAX FREE app – calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.

Welcome to Milan

@环球蓝联-Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 @globalblue @GlobalBlue

SALLY McILHONE

ILLUSTRATION: PETRA ERIKSSON

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of the city known as Italy’s fashion capital. Milan has much to offer, as you’ll discover in our guide on page 63. On page 42 we explore one of Milan’s most creative neighbourhoods – as you’ll see, the Brera district definitely deserves a place on your must-visit list. Don’t miss our feature on the British designers who are shaking up some of Italy’s long-established fashion brands (page 52).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. This year we proudly celebrate a decade of publishing guides to the most prestigious destinations across the globe.

Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top brands you’ll find in Milan.

Discover the best shopping destinations in the city with Global Blue.

CONTRIBUTORS

GINGER ROSE CLARK Ginger Rose Clark, SHOP’s senior news editor, holds an MA in fashion journalism from the London College of Fashion. Before joining SHOP, Ginger worked as a fashion stylist and also wrote for a number of publications.

LUCINDA TURNER Lucinda Turner, SHOP’s senior fashion editor, studied linguistics at Queen Mary University of London before pursuing a career in publishing. Since graduating she has worked in the fashion departments of titles including Tatler, Condé Nast Brides and Marie Claire.

Discover SHOP Milan and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

ILLUSTRATION: ANDREW NYE

ANDREW NYE Andrew Nye’s striking conceptual style is perfectly showcased on the cover of this season’s edition of SHOP Milan.

The illustration features bespoke perfume bottles among the arches of the world-famous Accademia di Brera academy of fine arts. Andrew’s other clients include Barclays and Eurostar.

MILANO C.so V. Emanuele

(angolo Galleria S. Carlo)

Galleria V. Emanuele, 69 C.so Buenos Aires, 39

C.so Vercelli, 35 C.so Genova, 20 C.so XXII Marzo, 5

SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L

PUBLISHING

Editor Sally McIlhone

Publisher James Morris

Cover illustrator Andrew Nye Contributors Ruby Abbiss, Farrah Moore Production editor Katie Muxworthy Senior fashion editor Lucinda Turner Senior news editor Ginger Rose Clark Features editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Myers, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Jo Walker Assistant picture editor Mónica R Goya

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern

Digital editor Kirsty Welsh Deputy digital editor Emily Scrivener Digital production editor Marina Nelson Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Assistant Chinese online editor Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy Founding editor Emma Cheevers

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designers Aaron Carline, Peter Darkin, Kiranjeet Kaur Midweight designer Nicole Williams Junior designers Tatjiana Antoniou, Thanuja Tharmaseelan Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistants Chris Bigg, Joanna Dodge Associate digital product manager Aarti Patel Digital analyst Yunrong Kang Midlevel web developer Kurtis Justin Digital production assistant Linda Hau

G LO B A L B L U E I TA LY Managing director Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales manager Denise Bolandrina Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Marketing executive Laura Gallo Partner relationship manager Antonella Bertossi Head of key accounts Stefano Cardinale Head of accounts Marco Cavalli Key account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Ilaria Sassarini, Marco Savino, Andrea Zavattarelli Account managers Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Elisa Caporaso, Laura Durante, Giorgia Faro, Attilio Fioritti, Gabriele Giuntini, Davide Grechi, Diana Martin, Marta Miserendino, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Vincenzo Saponara, Giordano Senzacqua, Laura Vitale Sellout team Giulia Belligrandi, Erika Bordoni, Fillipo John Ciccarelli, Andrea Di Comite, Livia Gargelli, Sara Villoresi Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese

SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2019 Global Blue

#glamourizing

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CONTENTS CHECK OUT 16

IN STORE …

40

SHOP selects a standout piece from Milan this season

… with Giada Forte, co-founder of Forte Forte, who gives us a tour of the brand’s beautifully conceived womenswear boutique

PRODUCTS 18 Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

FEATURE 42 MILAN’S BOHEMIAN HEART

INVESTMENT PIECE 30

Milan’s Brera neighbourhood has long been a source of creative energy and continues to inspire some of the city’s top luxury brands.

Ginger Rose Clark takes a tour

Future classics to buy this season: Prada’s elegant mini bags

32

42

Don’t miss the stunning glass and ceramics at the new Bisazza flagship on Via Solferino

FEATURE 52 BRITISH INVASION

NEWS 34

Some of Italy’s most time-honoured brands have embraced British creative directors in recent seasons and are thriving as a result.

Sally McIlhone reports

Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

Above (from left): Bisazza’s flagship store; statue outside the Pinacoteca di Brera gallery

PHOTO: (RIGHT) DIMITRISVETSIKAS1969/PIXABAY

SHOP WINDOW 32

VANESSA MOODY

MILANO CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE CORSO XXII MARZO 4 CITY LIFE SHOPPING DISTRICT P.ZZA TRE TORRI 1 CENTRO COMM. CARREFOUR MILANOFIORI ASSAGO

CONTENTS 60

TABLE TALK 58 Traditional and authentic, Milan’s trattorias are the perfect places to experience the true taste of Italy, as Lucinda Turner discovers

MILAN GUIDE 63

HOW TO SHOP TAX FREE 84 The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS 86 中文翻 译 89 Русский Перевод 92 日本語翻訳

ENG LISH | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE...

• Visit globalblue.com, our recently relaunched website, for the latest luxury shopping and travel stories, updated daily • 访问我们近日新版上线的网站 globalblue.cn, 了解最新奢华购物旅游 信息，每日更新 FOLLOW US AT... @环球蓝联- Globalblue

SOUVENIR 98

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The essential item to bring home

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Above: the contemporary, welcoming Anche trattoria

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PHOTO: (RIGHT) CHAIRA MARIA GRIONI

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Milan

Milano

corso Vittorio Emanuele

CH EC K O U T

Modern Classic

When it comes to chic Italian style, Max Mara has been one of Milan’s go-to brands since 1951. Known for its elegant, neutral colour palettes and classic camel coats, the brand is a champion of subtlety. However, for autumn/ winter 2019/20 Max Mara’s accessories collection takes a slightly different approach.

While shapes and colours remain timeless and modest, the brand has decided to explore the ever-growing logo trend, placing a monogram Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

M onto its designs. This modern embellishment in Max Mara’s signature tonal palette is a perfect mixture of classic and contemporary and would make a stylish addition to any new-season wardrobe. lt Max Mara Linda bag, €630, Max Mara, Piazza del Liberty, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 20121 Milan, +34 02 7600 8849, maxmara.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 68

18 | P R O D U C T S

POWER DRESSING Make a subtle nod to the 80s trend with wide-leg leather trousers, a high-neck blouse and plenty of striking accessories

DELFINA DELETTREZ EARRING, €2,900, GIO MORETTI, VIA DELLA SPIGA 4, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7600 3186, DELFINADELETTREZ.COM

MIU MIU BAG, €1,200, MIU MIU, VIA SANT’ANDREA 21, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7600 1799, MIUMIU.COM

TWINSET TROUSERS, €138, TWINSET, VIA ALESSANDRO MANZONI 34, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7602 3335, TWINSET.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

MORESCHI SHOES, €560, MORESCHI, CORSO VENEZIA 5, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7628 0529, MORESCHI.IT

PHOTOS: (EARRING) RICCARDO; (BLOUSE) TOM BEUERS; (TROUSERS) ALESSANDRO RUSS0

PATRIZIA PEPE BLOUSE, €178, PATRIZIA PEPE, VIA ALESSANDRO MANZONI 38, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7601 4477, PATRIZIAPEPE.COM

20 | P R O D U C T S

MADE FOR WALKING

JIMMY CHOO BOOTS, PRICE ON REQUEST, JIMMY CHOO, VIA SANT’ANDREA 1A, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 4548 1770, JIMMYCHOO.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

CHLOÉ BOOTS, €1,095, CHLOÉ, VIA DELLA SPIGA 30, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 3035 7401, CHLOE.COM

PHOTOS: (JIMMY CHOO) RICHARD GREEN; (CASADEI & AQUAZZURA) MARCO LAMBRI; (LES PETITS JOUEURS) MARCO MAZZOBE

Knee-high boots are huge news for autumn/winter 2019/20. Opt for rich tones, embellishment and a dash of animal print to make a new-season statement

S H O P | 21

PARIS TEXAS BOOTS, €550, GIO MORETTI, VIA DELLA SPIGA 4, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7600 3186, PARISTEXAS.IT

AQUAZZURA BOOTS, €1,195, AQUAZZURA, VIA SANT’ANDREA 12, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 8352 0312, AQUAZZURA.COM

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GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI BOOTS, €1,795, GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 8, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7628 0759, GIUSEPPEZANOTTI.COM

AGL BOOTS, €650, RINASCENTE, PIAZZA DEL DUOMO, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 88521, AGL.COM

CASADEI BOOTS, €895, CASADEI, VIA SANT’ANDREA 1, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7631 8293, CASADEI.COM

LES PETITS JOUEURS BOOTS, €780, RINASCENTE, PIAZZA DEL DUOMO, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 88521, LESPETITSJOUEURS.COM

22 | P R O D U C T S

MARCO BICEGO EARRINGS, €2,170, CIELO 1914, PIAZZA DEL DUOMO 19, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 874010, MARCOBICEGO.COM

MAJE JUMPER, €245, MAJE, VIA ALESSANDRO MANZONI 16, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 8689 6069, MAJE.COM

SPARKLE AND SHINE Pair a statement sequin skirt with classic knitwear and glistening extras for a perfect evening ensemble

PINKO SKIRT, €675, PINKO, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 26, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 8736 8995, PINKO.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

SERGIO ROSSI SHOES, €550, SERGIO ROSSI, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 27, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7600 6140, SERGIOROSSI.COM

PHOTO: (SKIRT) TOMMASO VECCHIO

ERMANNO SCERVINO BELT, €390, GIO MORETTI, VIA DELLA SPIGA 4, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7600 3186, ERMANNOSCERVINO.COM

MAXMARA.COM MILANO - CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE • CORSO GENOVA, 16 • VIA CUNEO, 3 • VIA VICTOR HUGO, 1

24 | P R O D U C T S

URBAN EXPLORER Mix classic shades of russet and navy for a cold-weather look suited to city and country alike

CELINE BY HEDI SLIMANE SUNGLASSES, €290, CELINE, VIA SANTO SPIRITO 22, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 0063 3082, CELINE.COM

SANDRO JACKET, €485, SANDRO, VIA ALESSANDRO MANZONI 25, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 8689 6070, SANDRO-PARIS.COM

HACKETT TROUSERS, €160, RINASCENTE, PIAZZA DEL DUOMO, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 88521, HACKETT.COM

PANERAI WATCH, €9,200, PANERAI, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 1, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 3600 0008, PANERAI.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

CHURCH’S BOOTS, €720, CHURCH’S, VIA SANT’ANDREA 11, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7631 8794, CHURCH-FOOTWEAR.COM

MILANO - Corso Vittorio Emanuele - maxandco.com

26 | P R O D U C T S

Effortlessly Elegant Neutral tones and luxury accessories come together to create a timeless look perfect for the season ahead

CARTIER EARRINGS, €13,500, CARTIER, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 16A, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 303 0421, CARTIER.COM

LOUIS VUITTON BAG, €3,100, LOUIS VUITTON, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 2, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 777 1711, LOUISVUITTON.COM

ESCADA SKIRT, €799, ESCADA, CORSO GIACOMO MATTEOTTI 22, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7600 0753, ESCADA.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

JIL SANDER SHOES, €495, JIL SANDER, VIA PIETRO VERRI 6, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 777 2991, JILSANDER.COM

PHOTOS: (EARRINGS) VINCENT WULVERYCK/CARTIER; (SHOES) MICHELE SILVESTRO

COS JUMPER, €89, COS, CORSO VENEZIA 5, 20121 MILAN, +39 06 3283 2702, COSSTORES.COM

© 2 01 9 T U M I, I n c. A ll R ig h t s Re s er v e d

CORSO MATTEOTTI, 7 / VIA VINCENZO CAPELLI, 4 - MILANO TUMI.COM

28 | P R O D U C T S

SHADES OF GREY It is always a good time to invest in a wool overcoat in a heritage fabric, especially when teamed with luxury Italian accessories

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI HAT, €240, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 27C, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7601 5982, BRUNELLOCUCINELLI.COM

GANT JEANS, €112, GANT, VIA ALESSANDRO MANZONI 26, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 8708 4267, GANT.COM

IL BISONTE BAG, €425, IL BISONTE, VIA SANTO SPIRITO 14, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7600 3014, ILBISONTE.COM

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

BALDININI BOOTS, €420, BALDININI, VIA MONTENAPOLEONE 25, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 7602 2002, BALDININI-SHOP.COM

PHOTO: (TROUSERS) ANDREW SUTTON

ACNE STUDIOS COAT, €950, ACNE STUDIOS, PIAZZA DEL CARMINE 6, 20121 MILAN, +39 02 8410 2383, ACNESTUDIOS.COM

Milano

Via San Pietro all’Orto 11 - Via Belfiore 6 samsonite.com

Samsonite is a registered trademark of Samsonite IP Holdings S.à.r.l. © 2019 Samsonite

Investment Piece

Above: Prada autumn/winter 2019/20 Opposite page (from left): the brand’s Odette and Cahier bags

S H O P | 31

A classic handbag will keep its place in your wardrobe for years to come. When you’re shopping in Milan, Prada is a must-visit – don’t miss the brand’s new launch of perfectly proportioned Little Black Bags, writes Lucinda Turner

PHOTO: (OPPOSITE) MOLLY LOWE

I

f there is one item of clothing that every woman was once required to own, it was surely the little black dress. Immortalised by Audrey Hepburn in the 1960s, the LBD has been a wardrobe staple ever since. However, in 2019, the little black dress, though timeless, is no longer de rigueur. What if you’re a fan of bright colours for the evening? What if trousers are your black-tie ensemble of choice?

Nowadays, the LBD has plenty of competition.

However, one item that remains a necessary constant in any wardrobe is the black handbag and Prada offers a plethora of timeless options.

The brand’s Little Black Bags collection is an edit of small and elegant versions of four classic Prada bags, all available in saffiano leather and calfskin as well as gloss crocodile.

The Odette, Cahier, Galleria and Panier are some of the brand’s most recognisable styles and each possesses a personality and purpose all of its own.

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The statement Cahier bag (pictured, top right) is well-known to true Prada fans. Inspired by antique books (cahier is the French for notebook), the style was first introduced in 2016 and is the perfect choice among the Little Black Bags for those who crave a little more drama in classic accessories.

The newest style included in the LBB quartet is the Odette (pictured, top left).

A dainty design, the unusually shaped Odette made its first appearance on the spring/summer 2019 catwalk. With its ladylike top-handle design and vintage overtones, the Odette is a perfect choice for a fabulously feminine ensemble.

The Galleria and the Panier, both simple and elegant, are reimagined in a smaller size for the collection. The Galleria is the ideal day bag, while the sleek Panier tote makes a brilliantly minimalist statement, day or night.

Whichever design matches your personal style, a piece from Prada’s Little Black Bags collection is bound to become one of the most useful items in your wardrobe. Classic Italian elegance meets timeless practicality – and what better piece to buy in Milan?

Prada Odette saffiano leather bag, €1,500; Cahier calf leather bag, €1,600; Galleria mini saffiano leather bag, €1,650; Panier small saffiano leather bag, €1,650, Prada, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 63-65, 20121 Milan, +39 02 876979, prada.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 66

SHOP WINDOW

BISAZZA’S NEW HOME In spring 2019, during Milan Design Week, Bisazza threw open the doors to its new flagship store. Previously located on Via Senato, the glass and ceramic brand’s new flagship can now be found in the heart of the Brera district.

In this light, open space visitors can discover the brand’s Mosaico, Cementiles, Wood and Marmo collections. Founded in northern Italy over 60 years ago, Bisazza has become known Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

worldwide for its luxury glass mosaic designs for the home and has collaborated with some of the world’s most respected designers, including Marcel Wanders, Greg Natale and Patricia Urquiola. grc Bisazza, Via Solferino 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0315, bisazza.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 78

34 | N E W S

LOCAL LOOKS For autumn/winter 2019/20, Brioni presents a sustainable project in the form of a limited-edition capsule collection called KMZero. The KMZero pieces are made using local wool from Abruzzo, the region where the brand’s atelier is located. This natural material, which is known for its thermal insulation properties that protect against both heat and cold, is transformed by Brioni’s highly skilled weavers into a luxurious fabric which can be seen on the four designs that comprise the collection. Choose from a blouson, a jacket, a trench coat and trousers. grc Brioni, Via Gesù 2A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 0086, brioni.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 70 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Mario Buccellati opened his first jewellery boutique in Milan in 1919. To celebrate the brand’s centenary, Buccellati’s designers have created the Opera Color limited-edition collection of pendants, using the existing Opera Color line as a starting point. Only 100 pieces of each of the 14 striking designs that comprise the special anniversary collection will be produced. The pendant comes in a choice of coloured enamels, including unusual options such as fluorescent or zebra print, lavender jade, coral, coloured marble, amethyst, howlite, unakite, or the pictured pink agate pendant with diamonds (€5,900). The Opera Color collection is a worthy celebration of the Milanese high jewellery brand’s successful history. grc Buccellati, Via Montenapoleone 23, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2154, buccellati.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

PHOTO: (OPPOSITE LEFT) GETTY IMAGES FOR LANVIN/KRISTY SPAROW

A CENTURY OF BUCCELLATI

S H O P | 35

NEW BEGINNINGS Autumn/winter 2019/20 saw Bruno Sialelli make his debut as the creative director of the French fashion house Lanvin. In his Mystic Pilgrims collection, the designer looks back through the maison’s archives, for example by reinterpreting the logo Paul Iribe designed for Lanvin in 1924, while also taking inspiration from different eras and places. Influences from around the world and from different historical periods emerge in the form of Fair Isle knits, Breton jackets and tartan, and in a medley of prints of Babar the elephant, embroideries of the dragon of Saint George and a colour scheme borrowed from the Pre-Raphaelites.

Sialelli has cleverly woven all these disparate influences coherently together, resulting in a strong first collection for Lanvin. grc Lanvin, Via della Spiga 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 9768 7091, lanvin.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 73

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

HUGO MOVES IN

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Hugo, the fashion-led line by Hugo Boss, has opened a new shop-in-shop at the Rinascente store in Piazza del Duomo in Milan – the first time the range has had its own retail space in Italy. Located on the second floor of the department store, the shop-in-shop carries the brand’s clothing, from basics and denim through to contemporary tailoring, as well as the shoes and accessories collections for men.

The modern interior design reflects the Hugo line’s contemporary outlook. grc Hugo at Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, hugoboss.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 68

36 | N E W S

LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT La Perla has introduced a bridal range: the made-to-measure collection consists of 18 pieces designed by Alessandra Bertuzzi in the brand’s atelier in Bologna. Each of the handmade pieces is a fine example of craftsmanship and can be customised for the ultimate unique effect. Luxury fabrics such as silk, gilded lace and diaphanous tulle are finished with exquisite touches such as corsets inlaid with Swarovski crystals. The luxury lingerie brand has long created intimate apparel and nightwear for brides, so this bridalwear launch is a natural evolution for La Perla. grc La Perla, Via Montenapoleone 14, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0460, laperla.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

Enhance your trip to Milan with city tour specialist Zani Viaggi, which offers coach trips that take in the best of Milan’s culture, art and fashion, as well as shopping tours to some of Italy’s finest outlets. Services run from the city centre to shopping villages which showcase designer brands at discount prices.

Destinations include Serravalle Designer Outlet, the largest outlet in Europe; Il Centro; Franciacorta Outlet Village; Scalo Milano; and Vicolungo The Style Outlets.

Zani Viaggi can also take you across the border into Switzerland, to the FoxTown stores. Wherever you decide to go, Zani Viaggi will ensure you travel in style. sm

Zani Viaggi, Milan Visitor Center, Largo Cairoli 18 (city centre) and Milano Centrale station, Ground Level, 20100 Milan, +39 02 867131, zaniviaggi.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 76

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) ANDREA OFFREDI

TOP TOURS

S H O P | 37

SMALL WONDER Bulgari counts the Serpenti collections, first introduced in the 1940s, among its most iconic designs. Drawing on the brand’s 135-year jewellery heritage, the Serpenti bags incorporate Bulgari’s goldsmithing and watchmaking skills into exquisite leather goods designs. For its autumn/winter 2019/20 offering, Bulgari has created a series of micro-bags which are inspired by the small size but impressive impact of jewellery. The Serpenti Forever Atomic Glam micro bags are miniature versions of the brand’s Serpenti Forever designs. Like the original range, this smaller version comes in a choice of materials, from monochrome calf leather to metallic karung snakeskin versions.

Thanks to their compact size, these masterpieces can be worn as belt bags, in keeping with the most recent trends. grc Bulgari, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777001, bulgari.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

PHOTO: (TOP) MAURO FABBIO

ART ON A PLATE Richard Ginori has joined forces with Luke Edward Hall: together the Italian porcelain manufacturer and the British artist have created a collection called Il Viaggio di Nettuno. Greco-Roman mythology served as the starting point for the plates, place-card holders, teacups, tea pots, oval trays, mugs and other objects in the collection. Hall’s distinctive drawings of mythological gods and creatures are rendered in vivid colours, resulting in contemporary porcelain designs that sit at a crossroads between homeware and art. grc Richard Ginori, Piazza San Marco 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8901 1646, richardginori1735.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 78 globalblue.com

38 | N E W S

SHOP HIGHLIGHT* SAINT LAURENT

WHATEVER THE WEATHER

For autumn/winter 2019/20 Saint Laurent’s creative director Anthony Vaccarello has tapped into the brand’s French DNA. Tailoring is an important focus of the collection, emerging in tuxedo jackets and tapered trousers, as well as in designs based on powerful cuts, such as overcoats with strong shoulders. The signature Saint Laurent glamour is very much in evidence in the 1980s-inspired minidresses, sheer blouses and feathered detailing. The elegant nature of the collection is further underlined by sequins and sparkling fabrics, as well as animal prints, which pepper an otherwise sober colour scheme. With this collection, which radiates elegance, power and confidence, Vaccarello triumphs in achieving the Parisian sophistication for which the fashion house has been known since it was founded in 1961. grc Saint Laurent, Via Sant’Andrea 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0573, ysl.com

Santoni, which has had a name for creating quality footwear since 1975, counts certain designs as classics, including double-buckle styles, ankle boots and loafers. These are revisited for autumn/ winter 2019/20 in a collection that takes inclement weather into account: practical soles in para, micro and non-slip rubber, or simply in thicker leather, give classic designs a fresh new look, as seen in the pictured styles (From top: €995; €780). This season’s offering also features luxury trainers crafted in leather, rounding out a collection designed for urban men. grc Santoni, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0508, santonishoes.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72 *SHOP Highlight in paid partnership with Saint Laurent

fabiogavazzi.it | Montenapoleone 21, Milano

IN STORE: FORTE FORTE

‘W

e opened our first Milan boutique at number 1 Ponte Vetero in spring 2018. The opening represented a major turning point in the history of our company,’ Forte Forte designer and co-founder Giada Forte recalls. ‘It gave us the opportunity to sell our clothes in a space that represents our entire universe.’

The universe of Forte Forte, the Italian brand created by brother and sister Paolo and Giada Forte in 2002, becomes more and more appealing on entering the brand’s Brera boutique. The shop is, according to Giada

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Forte, a spatial extension that defines the unique spirit of the brand.

‘The store is a narrative and emotional space imagined by art director Robert Vattilana,’ she explains. ‘Through Robert’s imagination, we have created an intimate and private place that invites discovery. The design fuses the garments and the space in a harmonious, delicate atmosphere; clothes here tell their story.’

Telling a story through clothing is also a key brand value. Forte Forte’s romantic, feminine designs are created for strong women,

PHOTOS: PAOLA PANSINI

Forte Forte began by offering a small range of hand-finished T-shirts and has evolved into a fresh, feminine and utterly desirable ready-to-wear brand with a minimalist, modern flagship store in Milan’s on-trend Brera district. Designer Giada Forte tells Lucinda Turner about the brand’s values, the imaginative design of the boutique – and the importance of giving garments the space they deserve

S H O P | 41

PHOTO: XXXXXXX

from the delicate silk dresses to the sharp modern tailoring. ‘I believe that the Forte Forte woman is a free, curious woman, inspired by travel, able to express her personality without being influenced by fashion rules,’ says Forte.

‘She has a delicate and refined vision, she is a dreamer. Modern, sensitive and sophisticated, she loves to wear timeless clothes that make her feel special.’

The founders value the connection between the brand and its customers, and place great emphasis on visitors feeling welcome in the spacious boutique. ‘Just as the Forte Forte collections erase the distance between the garment and the wearer, so the boutique blurs the line between public and private, between the selling space and the narrative environment. It welcomes and surrounds,’ says Forte. ‘We have chosen to operate on a personal level, far from fashion rules and closer to style, creating pieces with no expiry date.’

These values, she says, extend to the store, which she describes as ‘a place of experience permeated by timeless classicism and feminine strength, which extends the ideas we transmit in our clothes.’

This synergy between store and collection was carefully considered. From the sleek marble walls and floors to the high rails that allow garments to hang elegantly, each interior design decision in the boutique was made to show the clothes to their best advantage.

‘The architecture and the display of the products create a physical and metaphysical link between the space and the collections, letting the purity of the line and the poetry of the materials do all the talking,’ says

globalblue.com

Telling a story through clothing is a key brand value Forte. ‘The protagonists are the materials, harmonised in a multisensorial opus that stimulates sight as well as touch, and in which the Italian-ness of the handmade becomes a eulogy to imperfection.’

The brand began with a desire to create something personal and precious. ‘We have always believed in the importance of artisanal authenticity,’ Forte says. ‘Small, precious details make a piece unique and special.’

Forte Forte, Via Ponte Vetero 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7200 8575, forte-forte.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 78

Milan’s Bohemian Heart

Milan’s Brera neighbourhood has long been a source of creative energy and continues to inspire some of the city’s top luxury brands. Ginger Rose Clark takes a tour

PHOTO: PCRUCIATTI/ISTOCK

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he Brera district has its own distinctive identity. Sprawling on either side of Via Brera, the neighbourhood is full of charm, with cobbled streets, historic architecture and a thriving art scene. Brera’s origins as a cultural and artistic hub can be traced back to the 18th century, when Maria Theresa of Austria, who ruled Milan as part of the Habsburg empire, established the Palazzo di Brera as a centre of arts and culture, which it remains to this day. The palazzo is home to the Pinacoteca di Brera art gallery, the Accademia di Brera academy of fine arts, the Istituto Lombardo seat of scientific and literary learning, an astronomical observatory and a botanical garden. The Accademia in particular is a magnet for creatives.

Brera’s bohemian artistic status was cemented in the 1950s and 60s, when Jamaica, a bar established in 1911, became a local institution. The bar was frequented by the likes of avant-garde artist Piero Manzoni, painter Lucio Fontana, poets Giuseppe Ungaretti and Salvatore Quasimodo, a Nobel Prize winner,

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Previous page: the Pinacoteca di Brera art gallery Above (from top): photographer Carlo Orsi in the Jamaica bar in 1958; the Palazzo di Brera artistic and cultural centre

PHOTOS: (BOTTOM) ISTOCK

Brera’s bohemian status was cemented in the 50s and 60s and beat generation icon Allen Ginsberg.

Photographer Ugo Mulas, who studied and socialised in Brera, was among those who captured the scene on camera.

The late Pino Rabolini, founder of the Pomellato jewellery brand, was also a Jamaica regular. ‘The Brera district has a special place in the Pomellato story,’ explains Vincenzo Castaldo, the brand’s creative director. ‘Pino Rabolini, the grandson of a Above (from top): Pomellato’s Brera collection; the district has a lively bar and restaurant scene

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Milanese goldsmith, used to meet with artists, photographers and intellectuals, often at the legendary Jamaica in the late 60s. This is where the idea behind Pomellato was born, the first prêt-à-porter jewellery brand, innovative and visionary.’ When Pomellato launched in 1967, Rabolini’s groundbreaking chain-centred designs were immediately successful; they proved solid foundations for a brand that would go on to achieve global acclaim.

In April 2019, Pomellato unveiled a new collection, fittingly called Brera, to commemorate the place that is so significant to the brand. ‘The new Brera collection pays homage both to the roots of Pomellato and to Above (from top): the Brera bag collection by Valextra; Fratelli Rossetti craftsmanship

7FORALL M ANKIND.COM VIA MANZONI 43 - MILANO DELLE CARROZZE 44/A - ROMA

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WHERE TO GO IN BRERA Vincenzo Castaldo, creative director of Pomellato, shares his personal favourites

For a stylish aperitivo Fioraio Bianchi, Via Montebello 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 2901 4390, fioraiobianchicaffe.it

For stunning homeware Richard Ginori, Piazza San Marco 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8901 1646, richardginori1735.com

Above: Fratelli Rossetti Brera loafers for women

For vegan delights Soulgreen, Piazzale Principessa Clotilde/ Via Amerigo Vespucci, 20124 Milan, +39 02 6269 5162, soulgreen.com

For culture and art, and its hidden botanical garden Pinacoteca di Brera, Via Brera 28, 20121 Milan, +39 02 722631, pinacotecabrera.org

For fabulously inspiring design Dimore Studio, Via Solferino 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3653 7088, dimorestudio.eu

For chic antiques Roberta e Basta, Via Fiori Chiari 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 861593, robertaebasta.com

PHOTOS: (BOTH) PAOLO MARCHES

the vibrancy and energy of our Milano today,’ says Castaldo. ‘With the Brera collection, I wanted to speak to a young audience and open the doors for them to the rich goldsmith tradition of the Pomellato chains. I therefore looked for a new language, one that is closer to the younger generation.’ Much like Rabolini in the 1960s, Castaldo seeks to create contemporary pieces and the result is a collection of rings, necklaces and earrings that reinvent the brand’s signature chain motif.

Pomellato isn’t the only brand to have deep-rooted ties to mid 20th-century Brera.

One year after the founding of Pomellato, in 1968, Fratelli Rossetti’s signature product, the Brera moccasin loafer, came into existence, inspired by the free, unconventional energy of the Brera district. Last year the brand celebrated the 50th anniversary of the style: the Brera is still one of Fratelli Rossetti’s key designs, updated season after season.

Milanese brand Valextra, founded in 1937, has always set out to capture the essence of Milanese style: this is particularly evident in its Brera line of bags. CEO Sara Ferrero has a personal connection to the neighbourhood. ‘I live in Brera and walk to the office every day,’ she says. ‘I pass the Jamaica Bar and the buzzy Pinacoteca. Finally, I walk down the majestic Via Brera.’ Nonetheless, it was not so much

PHOTO: © DELFINO SISTO LEGNANI

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Above: the Brera neighbourhood’s distinctive look has inspired a variety of quintessentially Milanese products

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the beautiful buildings and architecture as the people that inspired the bag range of the same name. ‘It is the people walking in the streets that really inspired the name of this Valextra line, effortlessly elegant women and men and young bohemian students,’ explains Ferrero.

‘The bag epitomises the style and the spirit of this part of Milan, elegant while practical, clean but soft in lines.’

The Brera collection spans various styles, including a top-handle design, a crossbody and a backpack, one of which Ferrero describes as her ideal travel companion. ‘I love the big Brera shopper, oversized and extra light. It is the perfect bag when I travel because I can fit everything I want and more.’

As someone who knows her neighbourhood inside out, Ferrero is keen to share her recommendations. Besides visiting churches

such as Santa Maria del Carmine and San Simpliciano, she says: ‘Don’t forget to peek into closed doors to glimpse the private gardens.

If you are around for lunch try the hidden restaurant La Latteria on Via San Marco, the best food ever, real mamma and papa style.’

Affection for the Brera district shows no sign of wavering. Diego Fratelli, chairman of Fratelli Rossetti, explains the enduring charm of the neighbourhood. ‘It continues to inspire because it has this very clear identity: the ideal stage for development of design and art, it is where people go looking for inspiration or to establish artistic movements.’ While the area’s longstanding bohemian associations remain potent, it’s undoubtedly these brands’ personal connections with this much-loved district that best explain the longevity and success of the respective Brera-inspired designs

Above: a stylish bag from the elegant yet practical Brera collection by Valextra

Some of Italy’s most time-honoured brands have embraced British creative directors in recent seasons and are thriving as a result. Sally McIlhone reports

British Invasion

T

he changing of the guard at a heritage fashion label always brings about mixed emotions: bidding adieu to the style incumbent while getting excited about the next chapter in the brand’s legacy and who will be shaping that future. In recent seasons, a trio of Italian brands have chosen talented Brits to take the helm, to great success.

The connection between the fashion cities of London and Milan has always been strong, with developments such as these proving that the fashion landscape is now truly global.

Daniel Lee joined Bottega Veneta in 2018. His CV includes stints at Balenciaga and Maison Margiela as well as his most recent position as director of ready-towear at Céline. In short, Lee’s credentials speak for themselves. Bottega Veneta is a brand with clearly defined codes and a history of artisan craftsmanship that demands the utmost respect.

With his autumn/winter 2019/20 collection Lee proved he was able to add his own perspective while respecting the Bottega Veneta aesthetic.

The intreccio leather motif

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that has become synonymous with the brand was given an oversized interpretation in bags, jackets and even shoes, with quilted pumps for women and blocky Oxford styles for men. The squarecentric pattern also gave rise to a stunning raspberry embellished coat, paired with a tan dress in the same glittering finish.

Elsewhere the knotted detail was applied to Bottega Veneta’s knitwear, best exemplified by the striking orange jumper dress with inbuilt scarf-like collar.

For men, knitwear was deconstructed, jackets were boxy and biker boots and trousers gave an edge to refined suiting. This unexpected direction was a welcome change for the brand, proving that Lee’s shaking up of Bottega Veneta’s sartorial legacy is a gamble that’s paying dividends.

Having worked for Salvatore Ferragamo since 2016 as director of women’s footwear and then women’s creative director a year later, Paul Andrew was officially crowned creative director in February 2019. Though you would be forgiven for

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Above: Iceberg autumn/winter 2019/20

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PHOTOS: GORUNWAY.COM PHOTO: XXXXXXX

The London-Milan fashion connection has always been strong

Above (clockwise from top left): Bottega Veneta creative director Daniel Lee at Milan Fashion Week; two looks from the brand’s autumn/winter 2019/20 collection

PHOTOS: (ALL) IMAXTREE

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thinking of Ferragamo as synonymous with accessories, Andrew is bringing its readyto-wear to the fore. Patchwork effects, applied to tailoring, dresses and skirts, are executed effortlessly and the results are impeccably chic.

Channelling a wedge that dates back to 1942, Andrew proves that taking inspiration from the archives can bear the sweetest fruit. Outerwear was standout, with oversized coats in midnight blue or rust-coloured satin, shearling maxicoats with obi-style belts and cherry red leather bomber jackets.

That’s not to say that accessories weren’t fundamental to the collection.

From mint green peep-toe sandals with a sculptural heel to Gancio-print knee-high boots, footwear options are covetable and wearable.

Structured 50s-inspired bags in shoulder and mini versions have mass appeal, but it’s the suede bucket styles in warm shades of greige that set our pulses racing. Looking ahead to spring/summer 2020, Andrew’s menswear offering at Pitti Uomo in June serves to emphasise his luxurious vision for the brand.

James Long took the helm at Iceberg’s menswear line back in November 2015, taking on the womenswear creative direction in August 2016. The designer, a former winner of the British Fashion Council’s Fashion Forward award, is known for his unique, directional perspective with a focus on knitwear – a perfect fit for Above (from top): Bottega Veneta bag and boots; Salvatore Ferragamo autumn/winter 2019/20

PHOTO: (RIGHT) GORUNWAY.COM XXXXXXX

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Above (all): Salvatore Ferragamo autumn/winter 2019/20

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PHOTOS: IMAXTREE

The Brit pack is clearly a wise investment and this trend looks set to spread the Italian brand, which has its roots in woven garments.

Since spring/summer 2019, Long has transferred Iceberg’s menswear shows to London, an ideal fit for its streetwearinspired looks. This season, men’s outfits take their cues from skiwear, updated with an urban finish. All-white ensembles with studded belts and polo necks cut a dash and knitwear adorned with Disney characters in pink and pea green adds just the right Above (all): Iceberg autumn/winter 2019/20

amount of humour. When it comes to womenswear, magenta satin tailoring, neon pink oversized cardigans and black maxidresses with thigh splits and shimmering panelled branding are all on our wish list.

Iceberg, founded in 1974, is a relatively new brand compared to Bottega and Ferragamo and as such its more youthful take on luxury fashion is not just appropriate, it is bold and refreshing.

It’s clear that, when looking for creatives to breathe new life into quintessential Italian fashion houses, Iceberg, Bottega Veneta and Salvatore Ferragamo have all made excellent choices.

Paul Andrew is already raising profits at Ferragamo and, if the fashion press on Bottega Veneta and Iceberg is anything to go by, this trend looks set to spread.

The Brit pack is clearly a wise investment

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TABLE TALK

Red checked tablecloths, an abundance of local cuisine and racks stacked high with Italian wines mean the warm, inviting nature of Milan’s traditional trattorias is undeniable.

Less formal than a restaurant, yet more refined than an osteria, a trattoria is the best place to discover no-nonsense regional cooking and the true spirit of Italian hospitality.

From long-established institutions that have stood the test of time to modern interpretations where chefs are determined to keep classic dishes alive while championing innovation, the wide range of trattorias in Italy’s most stylish city will leave any hungry visitor spoiled for choice. globalblue.com

PHOTO: MARCO VAROLI

Traditional and authentic, Milan’s trattorias are the perfect places to experience the true taste of Italy, as Lucinda Turner discovers

TRIPPA Trippa is a trattoria with a difference.

The restaurant’s name is the Italian word for tripe, and its philosophy is rooted in using and respecting all cuts of meat, alongside traditional vegetables that feature infrequently on menus. The regularly changing dishes served in this intimate space contain a wonderful mix of unusual and sometimes challenging ingredients which, in the hands of chef Diego Rossi, combine to create some of the most delicious modern food in the city. Rossi, who has worked in gourmet restaurants for years, teamed up with food blogger Pietro Caroli to create a space that honours the classic concept of the casual trattoria, while providing fare that is perfect for a food-conscious crowd.

Trippa, Via Giorgio Vasari 1/Via Lodovico Muratori, 20135 Milan, +39 32 7668 7908, trippamilano.it

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ANTICA TRATTORIA DELLA PESA Established in 1880, Antico Trattoria della Pesa is certainly permitted to call itself one of Milan’s longest-established trattorias. Located in the north of the city, close to the Porta Garibaldi station (historically the weighing station for goods coming in and out of the city – pesa is the Italian term for weighing), the restaurant specialises in traditional dishes of the Lombardy region. The ossobuco alla Milanese (braised veal shanks), the establishment’s defining dish, is loved by locals and visitors alike. This Italian classic, among many others, keeps the trattoria busy throughout the day.

The hearty Italian fare is bound to entice, and the traditional setting, friendly atmosphere and old-school charm are certain to make Antica Trattoria della Pesa a favourite stop for years to come.

Antica Trattoria della Pesa, Viale Pasubio 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 655 5741, anticatrattoriadellapesa.com

ANCHE TRATTORIA The ever-expanding Anche group owns four spaces in Milan and the brand’s distinctive red star logo can be spotted in the city’s coolest neighbourhoods. While the restaurant, the pizza bar and the bakery each have their charms, the trattoria is certainly one of the most popular and undoubtedly the best value.

In keeping with the tradition of speedy, casual dining, Anche Trattoria, located in the upand-coming Porta Romana district, serves a set menu including appetisers, the classic Milanese cutlet (an Anche speciality), dessert, wine and coffee for just €25. A full à la carte selection is also available and offers equally outstanding prices for Italian classics. The portions are generous and the space is contemporary and welcoming, making Anche a classic trattoria for the 21st century.

Anche Trattoria, Via Perugino 18, 20135 Milan, +39 33 1822 4002, anche.it globalblue.com

9 11 CHRONOGRAPH TIMELESS MACHINE LIMITED EDITION Porsche Design Milano | Via Della Spiga 42 | 20121 Milano www.porsche-design.com/it/Orologi

PHOTO: ISTOCK

MILAN GUIDE

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Milan with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from an impeccable accessories emporium to a boutique for the best-dressed bambini.

Don’t miss a leisurely meal at one of the canalside restaurants in the Navigli district (pictured). Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/milan.

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Twinset The print-heavy autumn/ winter 2019/20 womenswear collection from Twinset features covetable floral maxi dresses and lashings of leopard print.

Twinset, Via Alessandro Manzoni 34, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 3335, twinset.com

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Vivienne Westwood, Corso Venezia 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7608 0222, viviennewestwood.com

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Tumi For the ultimate stylish, reliable and long-lasting travel companion, invest in an International Expandable carry-on case from Tumi.

Tumi, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 4831, tumi.com

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iBlues iBlues, part of the renowned Marella fashion group, offers trend-led clothing and footwear that the refined urbanite will appreciate. iBlues, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II/Piazza del Liberty 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 780299, iblues.it

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Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Gelateria

Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

● PRONOVIAS

Piazza San Carlo

● BROOKS BROTHERS

GH

LA

A

E

● ABERCROMBIE & FITCH ZEPTER ● INTERNATIONAL

SAN BABILA

YOUNG VERSACE ●

VI

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RAY BAN ● BROSWAY ●

FOOTBALL TEAM ●

● DIMENSIONE DANZA

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SIGNOR VINO ● LUSH ●

CO

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STONE ISLAND ●

PA O

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● CAMICISSIMA ● SISLEY ● INTER STORE IRERI ● NYX FIRENZE ● ● ACCESSORIZE ● DIESEL ● NBA GEOX ● TRUSSARDI O’BAG ● ● URBAN OUTFITTERS ● JEANS ● TIMBERLAND ● TWIN SET ● THE NORTH SAILS KIKO ● ● LUISA SPAGNOLI SWATCH ● ● MILAN MEGA STORE GOBBI 1842 ● ● MICHAEL KORS COCCINELLE ● ● PINKO ● DISNEY SWAROVSKI ● ● LIU JO ZARA ● THE HIGHLINE T O MEN ● ● FOOT LOCKER ’OR ALL ● GAP ZARA ● TRO ● ADIDAS . P IE CALZEDONIA ● V. S ● OTTICA CRISAFULLI ● TEZENIS UNITED COLORS ● PULL & BEAR OF BENETTON ● ● SEPHORA IS ● BERSHKA IS TO F O R IA DE CR ● MANGO G A LL ER ● KIKO ID P.16 MAX MARA ● MAX & CO ● PENNYBLACK ● ● MOTIVI I BLUES ● ● WYCON ● YAMAMAY MARELLA ● MARINA RINALDI ● ● CISALFA

SAN

ORE

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A

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OTTICA VANZINA ● Y NOT ? ● H&M ● ROCCA 1974 ●

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● ISAIA JIL ● ALCANTARA SANDER ● BOGLIOLI ● ● BAGUTTA MASCHIO ● PIN-UP ● ● IL GUFO P.74 POMELLATO ● ● ASPESI FERUTDIN ZAKIROV ●

VIA SANTA TECLA

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AN

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INTIMISSIMI ● ● NARA CAMICIE OTTICA ● SAN CARLO CELIO ● ● LIBERO MILANO TISSOT ● VIA SAN CL EMEN T E RI V I A PAT TA ● MATHEUS ● PK ● ALCOTT-GUTTERIDGE ● CARPISA & OTHER STORIES ● ● FALCONERI INGLOT ● ● INTIMISSIMI MISS SIXTY ● NARA CAMICIE ● FURLA ●

Cioccolati Italiani

Piazza San Babila ● LOLITA

Piazza Liberty

Piazza San Carlo APPLE ●

SELECTED STORE IN RINASCENTE: Hugo P.35

SAN BABILA

CO RS O MATT EO TT I ● CLARKS ● NESPRESSO

Piazza Meda

SAMSONITE ● MAURO LEONE ● ● SUPERGA CONTIGO ● BOSE ● ● SANDRO FERRONE CASHMIRINO ● ● MARCO FOR PETS ONLY ●

VI

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68 | M I L A N G U I D E

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Via San Pietro all’Orto & Via Torino

S H O P | 69

PIAZZA SAN BABILA AREA Piazza San Babila, Corso Matteotti & Via Bigli Corso Venezia & Corso Europa

VI

RA I I M TA ON LIA DI N I BI N O DI P DE S DI P TIC E T P E C BIG A IN LU A TIN ND UL LI ● L MAR E T C A IA V A CE RO NT I ● VI M NT L ● TT IL E I OR M M O SA N OR ●● AT C IO IA A ● O M 'S ● R IM A P RC N ● SA H V IA TH ES VI TO VI UN I ● M EN B ● ● NE T BE OL RE IN L W H NC OT DE ES E FL SIR I ● O TI BE T W E X E ● CA R X O VE NA OD ● Ta N R ● LI EZ DI ● r ● & F tu V I fi EL F O FA R N O R I A N A ● IG rien RN M IE I ● O A S AC M ● M ds EA I R IL A ET RO AN ND ● T ’A I● BE MA O DO NT RT LL LC SA O O A DO E& FE NI VI LC ST ● GA E& D A BB Ba ● GA OL AN r ● ARMAN I CASA A FL BB CE & M a ● r ti AV A N G ● STONE ISLAND KIDS A A n I O NE ● ANTON ELLI FIRENZ E CA BAR BBA i RO ST BI NA ● ALFIER I ST.JOH N GI NER EL ER ● AR O LA E ● ● WOLFO RD DI GIA NI N R ● I P DO ● GAGÀ MILAN O JU DIN LC HILI NI ● ROY ROGER S OR I ● E & PP ● M DIEGO GA PLE ● IN BB ● ULTIMA EDIZIO NE ● A M OR C NA SA EMPRE ● W OO ESC OS ● ● NOMIN ATION ● CR LRIC HI ● ● CHRIST O F LE OM H ● SOLO INSEGN A IA ● ● ● LUIGI BORRE LLI VILLA NECCHI H ZA CAMPIGLIO O OM R ● RED VALEN TINO L I YS E A CO VI A H O ● N NT A ● ● I● ● FL OS P.8 LU CE PL AN 0

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Brian & Barry Building San Babila

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NORTH SAILS ● NBA ● LUXURY TIMBERLAND ● LIVING ● TRUSSARDI JEANS ● MERITALIA ● AVIREX ●

VI

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Metro

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● LEGO ● SALMOIRAGHI VIGANÒ ● EDDY MONETTI ● RAY-BAN ● FLORSHEIM ● BROSWAY Piazza ● BOGGI San Babila ● NESPRESSO ● BALDININI TREND ● MAZZOLARI ● CAMICISSIMA ● VANNUCCI ● DIESEL MILANO OFFICIAL ● STORE

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70 | M I L A N G U I D E

MONTENAPOLEONE AREA Via Sant’Andrea, Via Pietro Verri & Piazza Meda, Via Gesù, Via Borgospesso & Via Santo Spirito A

SS

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VI VI

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MI.MI.SOL. ● MODICA MILANO ● GREYMER ●

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VERSACE HOME ●

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● MONTEGRAPPA ● FABBRICATORE ● SCHREIBER ● PORADA TURRI ● ● INBORGOSPESSO 18 ● CORNELIO CAPPELLINI BOTTEGA VENETA ● GALLUCCI HOME ● ● ALTOMANI & SONS ● MAISON SIBULET Drogheria ● GALLERIA SILVA LOUIS MICHAIL

VI

A

BO

VI

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JF LONDON ● RO OTTICA S.SPIRITO ● SSA AGRESTI ● RI WALTER PADOVANI BALENCIAGA ● ● ANTIQUARIO ISABEL MARANT ● ● DAAD DANTONE ANTIQUARIATO BENSI ● ● CARLO TIVIOLI O ● NEIL BARRETT ANDREA GHELLI ● T I SIMONETTA RAVIZZA ● I R ● CELINE P GIANVITO ROSSI ● S ● DROME BALLIN ● TO ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE Global Blue Lounge A N ● PAROSH SÙ S CHANTECLER ● GE A ● IL BISONTE A STELLA VI V I ● N° 21 MCCARTNEY ● ● MANDELLI

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LARDINI ● BARBA NAPOLI ● CAIATI FINE ARTS ● ORIENTAL ART ● MARINO FOSSATI ● DOUCAL'S ● ROSALBA ● KITON ● SILVANO LATTANZI ● LUCIANO BARBERA ● Ù BARRETT ● ES TINCATI ● DORIANI CASHMERE ● I A G ZILLI ● V STEFANO RICCI ● MIMÌ ● RUBINACCI ● GOYARD ● ACQUA DI PARMA ●

RS

Piazza Croce Rossa

CO

VI

RG

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● I O UT R IN ● RL DE CH A B E A N Y TA OS AD ● L S AV M I A R S TA M ● PR JI N RE M TIS T ● ● P & T EN RA TO IU ● ● M RM B A L I Z U UR NA ● IA AL A Z L L A IU M EL SE T V G U E ● A M IN OD S VI ● AQ A N N M ND ● SA ● CH IS T MA E R A A ● IR AR TZ R PP BR VIE IG ● NE LI .38 I ● U I E A SP I E P V A RY ● ET ST W NN TI OM W H R P O I LL XU GE VEN NA ● ● BA A R E IOT A O N DE TH BR A ● E S AC OW B LU RO ● A NO ’S ● VI C P IM R A I 70 LA EG AG R C H H Y IL ● R IA AN TT U C ● C H O R I AOV CH EN ● BO ● D C TA V RI GI ● ● UT TE A ● ● AG EU EL O ● NI IA AB VI EL GI SO OR O AR LIN IS M A ● RL M M ME A N RS E ● CA O ● LL SO BO PR SI ES Y ON T AI TO M LE ER M ● 7 LE GE ’OR A J I MO O ● ALL P.7 P O P I CCI D E R TRO ● P IE CH DEI N A N EN GU SA N V IA ● E X AQUE 4 SA TE P.3 C A O N E ● AL MC M IPP A ● ● NI ER IA IL IS A ● IO ND V PH -P RI I ● BR S A DY I N A K TIN E M ● T 2 TE N OG FU JIL D ● FRE AR RED PA S TA R O L R O M A P N I O ● U LA LI IN CO A RO Q G S ● I T I S ● AD G D AB ON P E VI ● PA L ER Y ● ER IC EB ● CH IC ENN ER E VA G ED LL FR MA ● ● RD FO T ● M PE ● TO U LI LO LI AO J NP NA SA CA VIA INI ● DIN BAL Y● NT ● VE EL E T ICO T O O ANO ● NT PU I MIL NZ NI ● RE LLA STE CA

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● ATTOLINI ● ISSEY MIYAKE ● DELVAUX ZANELLATO ● ● L’ARTISAN PARFUMEU R OLD AMERICA ● ● MR & MRS ITALY P.79

COR SO MAT TEO

TTI

CO RS O MO

NF OR TE

SAN BABILA

Piazza San Carlo

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Metro

Global Blue Lounge

Restaurant

Piazza San Babila

Featured In This Issue

time is pisa

the leading retailer for watch lovers

pisa orologeria boutique rolex via montenapoleone 24, milano

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pisa orologeria flagship store via verri 7, milano

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pisa orologeria boutique patek philippe via verri 9, milan0

pisa orologeria boutique vacheron constantin via verri 9, milan0

72 | M I L A N G U I D E

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A A VI TA ER I● M LB O IN E ● A L V L IN ● MA ● SÙ S AC E L C H I ● ● 14 GE K A E AT N I N A ●● VI R W I A R 36 N G S LD IA LIN I ● E S H P. L E O I C T ● RT & L A PO BA EN ICH L A IN I ● CA UL R A L E EL LE R ● S ● PA P E T E N B AN I R C C P P L I E L L ● EL E ER I ● ● L A ON ÈS L U U P O B ILI IE R NI Z ● RP ● M RM NI BR O Y &A ● HE AR A 4 P H G I V I K E R VAZ WE H ●● R L A .3 ● M OR BER EEF S I D E V H GA LOE AC T ● RE HE P N ● DI R CL O CU ND IC CO DE UET BI ● BU N NI M T ’A GN EN EG FA ● ● VA N I AN SI I P S N R O ● VE DE DE B ff è AT A ● I A VIA TI ● L AD M IN N a ● T L A O I IA DA y C M E G D ’S E ● va OM AN T ● AL I l l PO IT TO A C i C o A WP E Z R E N 8 D P U R S e s I N ●● A E P.9 L L I E A V ch EL A I A PR US L a r G U M EGV ER R I ● N I AV ● GI INT I C M BE O O ● SA 8 N ● AD O T P.3 ● r i a Y ETR IA CI ● BB RT R UE c e R PI S M U C O SA OB E P E NI N IG NA ic H EN VIA RU G E T R A P BA ● t M R ● O s A NT A M RS B I N LA ● a C ● A P AN GA O ● ● SA AD M A & G M HO ERN SA ● ● PR DE E AR ON H CA DI ● ● AU LC O T I EN O 7 ● DO RGI IT ND F AM ER ● ● P.3 ● O VU G L C FE S GI UI RI R A NC IW Z Z A ● O A R ● O L VI A ● LG FE M ● E RA LL E BU Piazza A BE R I ● OR ● MAT T EOTT I T T N A U LT R A I ● AT Meda CO RS O E V N O E T L NF OR TE ON A C N T CO RS O MO SA M Y L E PA S E SI B ER- N E OS SAN BABILA G ICI LI R E JA O F F T EL Piazza A San Babila FR A

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EG IL D B L TT M O C B O Z ALL EG O N U C A L EG Y ● SE LO A T IN M A N EM RG R VE B L EL IN A ● O IL IO P NE AN LI ● IO R IA T C ● V ● IA PU OS NA A ● ● ● F MA CC SI ● ● C O A L N ZO P I R CO I ●● NI NK N N ● ● R O ELI ER AN I ● GI OL VE US EX I TR EP BO ● E P U SA V RI E T ● VA LVA I A B O E D Z A NI Q U TO RG I E O E LE R E OS M P T T P I NT I IN FE PES OL DE SA O R R SO I SI GN AG AM O

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For autumn/winter 2019/20 Simonetta Ravizza adventures beyond womenswear with the launch of the label’s first menswear capsule collection. The collection, created in collaboration with Lardini, comprises a selection of city coats, puffer jackets, shearling outerwear and other pieces designed for sartorially stylish men. Leopard prints, contrasting colours and fur trims add playful elements to the designs. This new collection for men is a perfect complement to the women’s collection, and a continuation of the Milanese luxury brand’s love for Made in Italy craftsmanship, contemporary designs and attention to detail. grc Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Café

Restaurant

Simonetta Ravizza, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 2921, simonettaravizza.com Metro

Featured In This Issue

PHOTO: MONICA FEUDI

SIMONETTA RAVIZZA

S H O P | 73

SPIGA & VIA MANZONI AREA Via della Spiga

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AS IN A ER E D LIS ALL ION VI E AD P CO E NA B EL CR N Y EM C TH VE ZE ● MO E T T A S ARO AR CC N B Z E B T HI ● PR Z R O I O F PO ● P I A CC A I N I ● LI IN EL A ● RO 2 S U P TE N ● I R CN C D R IA GI U NI ● ● Q IC M N RE H R E PI O ● O O C A ● R D OO NI M A B A S MB RO E ● M IAN ON ET IN PI L I R LO D I ● V N N O UA ● G IS ON U IP N ● C Q E L A A O IQ ● M RM RE FI H LA ● O OV CI P CO L O ● SE EB NA IN GI IFI B S E AC I ● VIL BIA O ALL N CO G U O N T P GN ZZ LA A A ● JA SI IA M F S O N ● RO NC IA DE ON M I P T E N AP ● I P R A CH AN O ● SE RS A SHI ● P O R E N FA ● LO GA A R R IN ● ME MA ● O FA V IA ● IN U ASS L AN V L Piazza I I ● N R O 1 N E IT L A Croce ● V- G 30 M . 1 9 1 I N E I● ● IR IR ST SP 5 ● No . M A R NA IA Rossa RE TO P.3 IO RIZ S ● .B M ● L N G L K L A RI ● B LU LOÉ SA BI A MONTENAPOLEONE AK ● CH VI .● ● CO ● AX & S I O Y D’ TM IN R IM N L ● Ù L A TO O R A NP S E F A E ● P V E ● S AD SA V G IF E A A T ● A I L N L ’ C ● PR V VI A GE I E ● ● IK R D M RU O D I RS ER LLE AR O B L AN ● A R KO R U N Y U CH LD MI VI P A F O A M RI A 3 ● EL E B H I BI A K 8 C L GL C H IN 8 A 1 C N L ● ● I I L L A M SQU EY P IU PO FR DA ● M ● ER AM I PA TA IU A T H UT ● M VI A ●● OL A PE NGC RET V A SC PIG S ● ● RI O E O R S EL H ● L M D A W C N ● Ò NOINO ’A LL JE UR NT GI NT ● M A N RV DE IS B A ● SA E A IC Y NF A AS E ● ER SC G VI S TOR R E VI R T O ● E ● D& BO TA S H N O I ● CL M ● R U L ● ON LO C A IGA VEL ERI M CO I P N S CR O LC FA

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globalblue.com

74 | M I L A N G U I D E

DE WAN What is more quintessentially Italian than an impeccably crafted butter-soft leather bag with a silk scarf tied around the handle? Inside Milan’s De Wan store you will find a selection of accessories that channel true Milanese style. From the Cecilia bag (€180), a maxi clutch with a removable Leonardo da Vinci label, to the boxy Madison in the brightest red, there is plenty to peruse. Be sure to check out the range of jewellery, which includes floral pendant necklaces and bohemian charm bracelets. De Wan was founded in 1955 and the stellar reputation it has since garnered means there is no better place to look for the final touches to an outfit. ra De Wan, Via Alessandro Manzoni 44, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3018, dewanmilano.it

IL GUFO Not content with dressing the world’s most stylish infants, Italian label Il Gufo has now expanded its offering for autumn/winter 2019/20 to include elegant and functional clothing for older children. For little dudes, puffer jackets in shades of bright orange, teal, grey and black look great when combined with robot-adorned knits, beanies with bear ears and neutral scarves. For the Christmas party season, be sure to invest in a tiny tuxedo for your mini man and prepare for cuteness overload. sm Il Gufo, Via San Pietro All’Orto 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3705 9805, ilgufo.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 68 globalblue.com

S H O P | 75

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

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Featured In This Issue

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76 | M I L A N G U I D E

DANTE & MAGENTA AREA Corso Magenta

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

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Place Of Interest

Featured In This Issue

S H O P | 77

CORSO COMO, GAE AULENTI & BRERA AREA Piazza Gae Aulenti, Corso Como & Corso Garibaldi STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI GARIBALDI FS

LA FELTRINELLI SWATCH ● ● READ EAT DREAM ● AIRNESS ● NEW BALANCE

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SELECTED STORES IN STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI: Accessorize Calzedonia Eurobijoux Foot Locker I ER SP La Feltrinelli TO TI Lama OpticalVIA Tally Weijl Tezenis

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Joie de vivre and beauty come to a head, literally, in the Borsalino autumn/winter 2019/20 collection’s striking designs and colourways. Innovative nano-cashmere berets are water-repellent and cosy – perfect for grey skies. The foldable Traveler style is handy to carry in luggage and adds a final flourish to your on-the-go look, and baseball caps adorned with an art nouveau interpretation of the Borsalino logo are a striking choice for the directional dresser. fm Borsalino, Via Sant’Andrea 5, 20121 Milan, +39 (0)2 878910, borsalino.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 70 Shopping Centre/Mall

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78 | M I L A N G U I D E

Via Solferino & Via Brera

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VIA DELL’ORSO

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OTTICA AVANZI ● BLU DEEP ● GIOIELLI MERÙ ● PESERICO ● ST. BARTH ● GINGER GIOIELLI ● LO SFIZIO ● MALI PARMI ● LE PANDORINE ● MANUEL RITZ ● SOLFERINO MARKET ● L'ARTIGIANO DI BRERA ● OTTOD'AME ● CIO

CITTÀ DEL SOL E ● BAL LER ETT E ● ● B E N HEA MY STY LE BAG S ● ● RT IN ● M ART D ONT E S IG EZE M O LN TES CO MA ● O ● JA MO LES KIN E ● S ● N O M IN E M SA LEWA ● IL A N V I A ● R IP R IE M O PA L ERM O ● F IG A ● C A U S D E S IG ● GA PEBEST NER R IB A ● LA LDI 4 F** K ● N 4 ● LG A P O R ●M Y FR LO OX ● AG R ANC ES ● JO GI OI EL LI LE CR EU SET ● ● MIDINETTE ● LE BEBE MIL AU RA ● ● KAMMI

CA GI US TI

● BISAZ ZA VIA SOLFERINO

● NV I A D E IKE LLA M

S H O P | 79

MR & MRS ITALY The change in weather calls for a striking coat to get you through the cooler months and the range at Mr & Mrs Italy will certainly turn heads. Famed for its Jazzy parka, this season the brand reinvents a classic with options like the Parkape cape and the Jazzy cropped jacket, which retain the essence of the parka style while offering new silhouettes for the directional dresser. Channel British mod style with a piece from the Old England collection, which makes the most of tweed and tartan details, or opt for a sporty down jacket with colour-pop stripe detail. Most spectacular of all are the fur hoods which adorn various styles in the autumn/winter collection. Eye-catching and warm, these truly set Mr & Mrs Italy apart from the competition. sm Mr & Mrs Italy, Via Sant’Andrea 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8001 2371, mmi.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 70

PHOTOS: (TOP) RAFFAL; (BOTTOM) IVAN GENASI

PESERICO Peserico celebrates everyday beauty in its autumn/winter 2019/20 collections, which both focus on the fluidity and natural poise of the ballerina. Featuring icy metallics and cool neutrals heightened with notes of ripe peach, the collection offers a host of accessible options for the modern woman. Select a grey check trouser suit, a silky striped dress with a rippling skirt for evening, or a midi skirt and jumper combination. The outerwear from the range is standout, offering wool pea coats, capes and puffer jackets, depending on your preferred silhouette. ra Peserico, Via Solferino 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 874371, peserico.it globalblue.com

80 | M I L A N G U I D E

CORSO BUENOS AIRES AREA IA

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LIVIANA CONTI Inspired by Luca Guadagnino’s film I Am Love, knitwear designer Liviana Conti’s new autumn/winter 2019/20 collection brings the elegantly laissez-faire attitude of Milan to her timeless womenswear. Impeccable attention to detail culminates in enduring luxury garments, from belted woollen midi dresses to asymmetric knits in cerulean shades.

Classic textures are reinvented through modern shapes and colours, with a palette that evokes a typical Italian evening; golden tan tones are offset with pops of cherry red, forest greens and greys. I Am Love’s cinematography inspired these contrasts and Conti brings them to life as conceptual art made into fashion. fm Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Liviana Conti, Piazza San Babila 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7634 0472, livianaconti.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69 Metro

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OPENING TIMES MondaySunday: 10am-8pm

DAY TRIP

SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET The biggest designer outlet in Europe, Serravalle Designer Outlet boasts over 240 stores, 11 cafés and restaurants, and guest services including a tax refund and currency office, international payment facilities, and free Wi-Fi.

Serravale Designer Outlet, Via della Moda 1, 15069 Serravalle, +39 0143 609000, mcarthurglen.it/serravalle

MILAN

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DESIGNER BRANDS ALWAYS UP TO 70% LESS With over 300 brands to choose from, Serravalle Designer Outlet is the perfect place to indulge in designer fashion.

Luxury brands including Gucci, Fendi and Versace Chic, trend-led womenswear from Sandro and Dondup, and men’s tailoring from Isaia and Canali Italian style with Furla, Giuseppe Zanotti and Ferragamo Sportswear from top labels Nike, Adidas and Salomon

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Outlet Village

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Serravalle Designer Outlet

HOW TO GET THERE By car From Milan, take the A7 until you see the exit for Serravalle Scrivia. Take the exit and follow signs for Serravalle Designer Outlet. The journey takes around an hour.

By shuttle bus The popular shuttle bus service takes customers from Milan to Serravalle seven times a day.

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OPENING TIMES

DAY TRIP

Monday-Sunday: 10am-8pm

FRANCIACORTA OUTLET VILLAGE children, accessories, footwear, toys, linens, personal goods and homeware. Don’t miss the Village’s exhibitions of contemporary art!

Franciacorta Outlet Village, Piazza Cascina Moie 1, 25050 Rodengo Saiano, +39 030 681 0364, franciacortaoutlet.it

HOW TO GET THERE By car From Milan, take the A4 Milan-Venice motorway (exit Ospitaletto) or take the A35 Bre-Be-Mi (take the final exit) then proceed to junction A4. Your journey will take less than an hour.

By shopping shuttle There is a daily shuttle service from Milan, for information and schedules go to franciacortaoutlet.it

THE WINE & SHOPPING TOUR The Wine & Shopping Tour lets you discover a land full of taste. You might enjoy a guided tour with tasting sessions at one of the Franciacorta wineries – the Village’s shuttle service will take you there. For booking and information, visit the Zani Viaggi office on Milan’s Largo Cairoli. globalblue.com

NEW OPENINGS …

There is always something new to enjoy at Franciacorta Outlet Village. Fratelli Rossetti, North Sails, Pal Zileri, Under Armour, Cavalli Class, Patrizia Pepe, K-Way, Tru Trussardi, Loriblu, Flavio Castellani, Caractère and Plein Sport are just a few of the stores which have opened at the village in recent months.

Come and discover the new stores.

PHOTO: © 2014 MAURIZIO CAMAGNA

A unique destination for shopping, culture and entertainment, the Franciacorta Outlet Village offers visitors more than 190 stores of wellknown Italian and international brands, with year-round discounts of up to 70%. It’s the ideal destination for high-end purchases; the collections feature clothing for women, men and

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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form.

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your Tax Free Forms stamped before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

Spend a minimum of €154.95 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Office Details Malpensa Airport: Terminal 1, Departures check-in, Area 12, second floor Terminal 1, Area A Schengen (after security control), first floor Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Linate Airport: Forexchange Maccorp, Departures Downtown Milan: Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer service desk), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 88

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How To Get Your Tax Refund At The Store Request a Tax Free Form.

Please note: when completing the Tax Free Form, retailers may ask you for the information below, due to the new Otello 2.0 legislation.

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First name Surname Country of residence Date of birth Identity document Passport number*

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Passport issuing country

*Swiss customers can present an identity card instead of a passport

If you do not provide the information above, you will not be able to obtain a Tax Free Form.

At The Point Of Departure Please follow the instructions at the airport.

ITALY’S MAIN AIRPORTS (Rome Fiumicino T3, Milan Malpensa T1, Florence Peretola, Venice Marco Polo): Items in check-in luggage Go to a Global Blue Refund Office or kiosk for electronic validation and refund BEFORE check-in.

Items in hand luggage Go to a Global Blue Refund Office or Customs AFTER security control for electronic validation and refund.

You can go to a Global Blue Refund Office/Customs up to four hours before your departure time.

Kiosk

Follow the instructions on the screen and your refund will be paid to your credit card within five days.

Other Italian And EU Airports

Go to Customs and get your validation BEFORE check-in.

Go to a Refund Office displaying the Global Blue logo, or mail your stamped and completed Tax Free Form(s) back to Global Blue in the envelope provided, and get your refund paid to your credit card within three weeks.

NO CUSTOMS VALIDATION = NO REFUND

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TRANSLATIONS

中文翻译

42: MILAN’S BOHEMIAN HEART 米兰的波西米亚心脏地带

米 兰布雷 拉区一直是 这个 城市的创意 能 量 来源，现在依然为不少米 兰顶级奢侈 品牌提 供灵感。Ginger Rose Clark在 此带 我们一览布雷 拉 布雷 拉区有自己独特的个 性。它分布于布雷 拉 街两侧，区域内到处都是 鹅卵 石铺 就 的街 道， 两旁汇 集了历史建 筑 和生机 勃勃的 艺 术景观， 许 多人 慕 名而来。布雷 拉自18世 纪 起 就 是 米 兰 的 文化 和 艺 术中心，当时米 兰 隶 属哈布 斯 堡 王 朝 的 领地，在奥 地 利的玛丽亚• 特 蕾 莎统治下， 建 立了 布雷 拉宫（Palazzo di Brera），作为米 兰 的 艺 术 和 文化中心，直到现 在 仍 是如此。布雷 拉宫内汇 集了 布雷 拉 美 术馆（Pinacoteca di Brera art gallery）、布雷 拉 美 术学院（Accademia di Brera academy of fine arts）、科 学 和 文学 学院 （Istituto Lombardo seat of scientific and literary learning），天文馆 和 植物园。其中美 术学院 像 磁 铁 一样 吸引着大 批创意人士来 此。 布雷 拉 的波西米 亚 艺 术 地位在 20世 纪 50年 代 和 60年 代 得到巩固，当时，自1911年 就 开业 的 Jamaica酒 吧 成 为当地 的非 官 方 艺 术 机 构。许 多 名人 墨客，如 前卫艺 术 家皮耶罗•曼佐 尼（Piero Manzoni）、画家卢齐奥•冯塔纳（Lucio Fontana） 、诗人 朱 塞 培 •翁 加雷蒂（Giuseppe Ungaretti）、 诺贝尔奖 得主萨 瓦多尔• 夸西 莫多（Salvatore Quasimodo），以及垮 掉派代 表 人物艾伦 • 金斯 堡 （Allen Ginsberg）等都是酒吧的常客。摄 影师乌 戈• 穆 拉 斯（Ugo Mulas）当时 在 布雷 拉学习，喜 上图: 宝曼兰朵的Brera“布雷拉”首饰系列

欢 社 交的他用相机 拍 摄见证了当时Jamaica酒 吧 的 文化 盛 况。 已离世 的皮诺 • 拉 博 利尼（Pino Rabolini）是 珠 宝品牌宝曼 兰朵（Pomellato）的 创始人，也是 Jamaica酒 吧 的常 客。“ 布雷 拉区在 宝曼 兰朵的历 史中占 据 特 殊 的地位，”该品牌 创意 总监 Vincenzo Castaldo向我 解 释 道：“皮诺 是 米 兰一 个 金 匠的孙子，他 在60年 代 与艺 术 家、摄 影师 和知识分 子交流密 切，他们 经 常 在传 奇的 Jamaica酒 吧 聚会。这 里 是 宝曼 兰朵的 摇篮，第 一 个成品珠 宝（prêt- à- porter）品牌诞 生 的地 方，这个概 念创新 而富 有远见。”皮诺 在1967年 创建 宝曼 兰朵，其划 时代 的链 索 设 计立 刻大 获 成 功，为日后宝曼 兰朵成长为 世界 级品牌打 下 坚 实基 础。 2019年 4月，宝曼 兰朵 推出全 新系列 “ 布雷 拉 ”，以纪 念 这个对品牌来说 意义 重 大的地 方。“ 布雷 拉 系列不 仅是 对品牌 的 渊源 表 达敬 意，也 是 对今 天充 满活力 和能 量 的米 兰人 表 示尊 重，”Castaldo说：“ 我想借 布雷 拉 系列与年 轻 一 代 对 话，向他们 打开宝曼 兰朵丰富 的金 匠传 统 之门。所以我 才要 寻 找一 种 新 的语言，更 接 近 年 轻 一代。”与60年 代 的皮诺 一样，Castaldo想 要 创造 符 合 当代 精神的作品，新系列的 戒 指、 项链、耳 环重 塑了品牌 标 志性 的链 索主 题。 宝曼 兰朵 并不是 唯 一与20世 纪中叶的 布雷 拉有紧密联 系的品牌。在 宝曼 兰朵 创建 后 一 年，也 就 是1968年，Fratelli Rossetti的 标 志性 产 品，布雷 拉 莫卡 辛乐福 鞋面世。这 款 乐福 鞋受 布雷拉区自由、不拘于传统的精神启发而设 计。 去 年，Fratelli Rossetti庆祝 布雷 拉 乐福 鞋面世 50 周年。布雷 拉 乐福 鞋 至今仍 是Fratelli Rossetti最 重要 的设 计款 式，每一季 都 推陈出新。 米 兰品牌 Valextra创建于1937年，始 终坚 持 把 米 兰风 格 的 精 髓 表 现 出来，而这 种风 格 最 集 中地体 现于 该品牌 的 布雷 拉包 袋 系列。首席执 行官 Sara Ferrero与 布雷 拉区之间存 在 紧密的个

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人联 系。“ 我住 在 布雷 拉区，每天 走 路上下 班，” 她说。“去办 公室 的路上会 经 过 Jamaica酒 吧、热 闹的美 术馆，最 后沿 着壮丽的 布雷 拉 街 走下 来。”虽然 如此，启发布雷 拉包系列设 计 的与其 说是沿路 美丽的建 筑，还 不如说是活跃在 那的 人们。“真正激 发 我创造Valextra布雷 拉 系列的， 其 实是布雷 拉 街上 的人们，那 些 外表 轻松的优 雅女人、男人 和波西米 亚 风 格 的年 轻 学 生 们，” Ferrero解 释 道。“ 布雷 拉包系列是 米 兰 这 个区域 的风 格和 精神的缩 影，即优 雅 又实用， 线 条 干净而又柔 软。” 布雷 拉 系列有几 种 设 计，包括手 提 包、斜 挎 包 和双 肩背包，Ferrero介 绍了其中一 款 她 的个 人 出行必 备 品。“ 我 最 爱的是布雷 拉shopper，大 而 轻 便。它是我 最完美 的 旅行 包，因为 我可以 放任 何想要 的东西，不用考虑 装不 下。” Ferrero对 布雷 拉区了如 指掌，很 热 情 地 推 荐了几个 地 方。除了卡尔米内圣 母 教 堂 和圣 辛 布 利奇亚 诺 教 堂等宗教 场所之外，“不 要忘记 从 门缝 里偷 看别人 的私家 花园。如果 想在 附近 吃 午 餐，可以去 圣马尔谷路（Via San Marco）的私 人 厨房La Latteria，那是 全城 最 好 吃 的餐厅，有 最 正 宗的米 兰家庭 的味 道。” 人们 对 布雷 拉区的 热 情 似乎没有衰 减 的迹 象。Fratelli Rossetti公司总 裁 Diego Fratelli对这 种 持久不 衰 的 热 情 是 这 样 理 解 的：“ 布雷 拉区 仍 是许 多人 的灵 感源泉，因为 它 有很清 晰的身 份定位：它是设 计 和 艺 术发 展 最 理 想的舞台， 在 这 人们 可以寻 找 灵 感 或 者发 起 艺 术 运 动。” 布雷 拉区的波西米 亚 艺 术 背景 仍然产生着重 大 影响，但勿容置 疑 的是，当地 品牌 与这片众 人 皆 热 爱的街区之间的紧密联 系，才是布雷 拉设 计如此长盛不 衰、为 世 人尊 敬 的最佳 诠 释。

布 雷拉区怎么逛 Vincenzo Castaldo个人推荐 啜 饮一杯讲究的开胃酒 Fioraio Bianchi, Via Montebello 7, 20121 米 兰 , +39 02 2901 4390, fioraiobianchicaffe. it 选 购 宜 人 的 家居用品 Richard Ginori, Piazza San Marco 3, 20121 米 兰 , +39 02 8901 1646, richardginori1735.com 品尝素 食 餐点 Soulgreen，Piazzale Principessa Clotilde/ Via Amerigo Vespucci, 20124 米 兰 , +39 02 6269 5162, soulgreen.com globalblue.cn

寻觅 文化 和 艺 术，享受 隐 秘 的 植 物 园 Pinacoteca di Brera，Via Brera 28, 20121 米 兰 , +39 02 722631, pinacotecabrera.org 选 购 无以伦 比的创 意 设 计 Dimore Studio, Via Solferino 11, 20121 米 兰 , +39 02 3653 7088, dimorestudio. eu 挑 选 雅 致 的古 董玩 物 Roberta e Basta, Via Fiori Chiari 3, 20121 米 兰 , +39 02 861593, robertaebasta.com

52: BRITISH INVASION 英国人来 啦！ 最 近几个季度，数 家意 大 利最 经典的品 牌先后 请 英国人 担任 创意总 监，成 效 显 著。Sally McIlhone 报 道 对 于 传 统 时尚品牌而 言，设 计 掌门人 的更 换 总 会 带 来 复 杂 的 情 绪：辞 去既定 风 格，带 着 兴 奋 的心 情 迎 接 品牌 新 篇章，猜 测 未 来 道 路由谁 铺 就。最 近 几 个季度，三个意 大 利品牌 选 择 让 才 华 横 溢 的 英国设 计 师 掌舵，结果可谓 极其成 功。尽管 伦 敦 和米 兰 这两大 时尚 之 都 之间 一直 保 持 着紧 密 联 系，这 些 任 命更佐 证了时尚界已 实 现 真 正 的 全 球化。 Daniel Lee在 2018年 加入 Bottega Veneta。 他曾先 后为巴 黎世 家（Balenciaga）、Maison Margiela设 计，加入 Bottega前是 Céline成 衣部总 监，能力不 言自明。Bottega Veneta品牌 个 性 鲜 明，尤 其 看重 其手工 匠 造 历史，这也 是Bottega Veneta赢 得 时尚界 尊 重 的原因。Lee加 盟 后不负 众 望，2019/20秋冬 季 新品证明了他 在 延 续 Bottega Veneta美 学 之 上 融 入个人 风 格 的 能 力。 编 织 皮 革已成 为Bottega Veneta的品牌 标 志，Lee在 新季 的皮 革 背包 和 夹克中 加入了 oversize元 素，甚 至 连 鞋 子 也 玩 起了视觉 大码 游 戏，推 出女 式 编 织 皮 质高跟 鞋 和男士方 块 压 纹 牛 津 鞋。编 织 皮 革 特 有 的 方 格 纹 路 让 一 款 树莓 色 外 套 惊 艳 众 人，搭配 同样 表面泛 着微 光 的浅 褐 色 连 衣 裙，气 场 强 大。还 有一 款 围巾式 衣领 的 橘 色针 织 套头 连 衣 裙，将Bottega Veneta这 种 独 特 的编 织 工 艺完 美 展 现 出来。男装 系列亦 颇 多精 彩，针 织 衫 被 解 构，夹克 呈前卫 箱型，机 车 靴 和 裤 装为 精 细 的 剪 裁 增 添了一 抹 街头 劲 酷。对 Bottega Veneta而 言，新季风 格出人 意 料，实为 令人 欣 慰 的 转 变，如 果说 Lee对 Bottega

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Veneta的 剪 裁传 统 进 行重 整 是 一 场博 弈，那 么 这 场博 弈 现已 有所回报。 Paul Andrew自2016年 起 担任 Salvatore Ferragamo女 鞋 部总 监，一 年后 升为 女 装 部 创 意 总 监。2019年 2月，他 正 式 成 为 Salvatore Ferragamo的 创意 总 监。多 数 人 对 Ferragamo的 印象是它 的配 饰，这 无可厚 非，Andrew上任 后 的目标 是 打 破 这 种印象，力 推 成 衣。比 如 将 拼 接 用于 套 装、连 衣 裙 和 短 裙上，竟 毫不 费力地 达 到无可挑 剔 的时 髦 效 果。Andrew还 从1942 年 流行 的 一 款 坡 跟 鞋中 汲 取 灵 感，证明了旧日 的时 髦也可结出美丽的果 实。新 款 外 套尤为突 出：午 夜 蓝 或锈 色 缎 料 oversize大 衣，剪羊 毛长 款 外 套系以 和 服 风 格宽 腰 带，还 有 樱 桃 红 皮 质 短 夹克，都让 人耳目一 新。新系列的成 衣 虽 然 突 出，但 是不意 味 着配 饰不 再重要。新季 的 鞋 履 好 看又 好穿，比 如薄 荷 绿 鱼嘴 建 筑 风 格高跟 凉 鞋，Gancio印 花 高筒长靴。50年 代 复古风 格 的肩包 有大 小 型 号，适合 各种 场 合，最 让 人喜 爱 的 是 一 款 乳 灰色 麂 皮 水 桶 包，颜 色 极其 温 柔。Andrew领 头设 计 的 2020年 春夏季男装 系 列于 六月亮 相佛罗伦 萨男装 展 Pitti Uomo，更 为 Salvatore Ferragamo带 来 奢 华 前景。我们 拭 目以待 品牌 的 辉 煌 未 来。 James Long在 2015年11月加入 意 大 利品牌 Iceberg，掌 管男装 系列，2016年 8月起 担任 女 装 部 创意 总 监。这位设 计 师曾获得 英国时 装 协 会 时尚前 沿 奖，以 风 格 独 特 、观 点 新 潮出名。 James的强 项 是 针 织 品设 计，跟古灵 精 怪 的 Iceberg可谓 绝 配，因为Iceberg的发 家 靠 的 便 是 编 织 类 服 饰。2019年 春夏季，James将Iceberg男 装 秀 带 到 伦 敦 举 行，这 对 走 潮 牌 路 线 的 Iceberg 来说再 合 适不过了。本 季，男装 造 型 结 合了滑 雪服 装 和 都 市风 。全白装 备 搭配 柳 钉 腰 带 和 polo领，带 来视觉 冲 击；针 织 衫用 粉 色 和 豆 绿 色 的 迪 士尼角色 点睛，为 整 个系列 增 添 恰 到 好 处 的幽 默 感 。女 装 系列中，小 编已加到心愿单 的 有 洋 红色修身 缎 料 单 品、霓 虹 粉 大码 开襟 衫 、黑色 腿 部开衩长裙以 及 拼 接 亮 感 品牌 logo 的 潮 衣。Iceberg创建于1974年，相比 Bottega和 Ferragamo而 言是 个 年 轻 的品牌，正因如 此，它 对 奢 侈 时尚的表 现 更 显青 春，不 仅不 会 相 形失 色，反而大 胆清 新。 很清 楚 的 一点 是，在 寻 找 创意 人 才 为品牌 注 入 新血 液 这 方面，Iceberg、Bottega Veneta和 Salvatore Ferragamo这 三大典 型 意 大 利时尚品 牌 都 做 出了正 确 的 选 择。Paul Andrew已为 Ferragamo创 收，Bottega和 Iceberg也 广受 时尚 媒 体 界 好评，如 果 真 如 评论 所言，那 么其它品 牌 势 必 效仿。显而易见，选 择英国人 是明智的 投 资。 globalblue.cn | globablue.ru

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 42: MILAN’S BOHEMIAN HEART БОГЕМНОЕ СЕРДЦЕ МИЛАНА

Миланский район Брера уже давно стал источником креатива, и продолжает вдохновлять ведущие модные бренды, – рассказывает Джинджер Роуз Кларк Району Брера, раскинувшемуся по обеим сторонам Via Brera, присущ свой неповторимый шарм: мощеные улочки и старинная архитектура идеально сочетаются с оживленным культурным центром. Арт-сцена начала зарождаться здесь еще в 18 веке, когда правившая Миланом Мария Тереза Австрийская (в то время город входил в состав империи Габсбургов) основала Palazzo di Brera как центр искусства и культуры, чем он и является по сегодняшний день. В палаццо сейчас находится художественная галерея Pinacoteca di Brera, академия изящных искусств Accademia di Brera, институт науки и литературы Istituto Lombardo, астрономическая обсерватория и ботанический сад. Одна только академия притягивает немалую творческую аудиторию. Статус богемного закрепился за кварталом Брера еще в 1950-60х годах, когда бар Jamaica, открытый в 1911 году, стал местную интеллигенцию. Здесь часто бывали такие художники-авангардисты, как Пьеро Мандзони, художник Люсио Фонтана, поэты Джузеппе Унгаретти и Сальваторе Квазимодо, лауреат Нобелевской премии и один из основателей движения битников – Аллен Гинзберг. Учившийся в Брера фотограф Уго Мулас, запечатлел множество событий из жизни творческого сообщества. Пино Раболини, основатель ювелирного бренда Pomellato, также был завсегдатаем Jamaica. “Район Брера занимает особое место в истории Pomellato, – объясняет Винченцо Кастальдо, креативный директор бренда. – Пино Раболини, внуку миланского ювелира, приходилось часто встречаться с художниками, фотографами и интеллектуалами конца 60х

годов, в том числе и в легендарном баре Jamaica. Именно здесь зародилась идея Pomellato, первого ювелирного бренда прет-а-порте, инновационного и дальновидного”. В 1967 году, когда проект Pomellato появился на свет, революционные творения Раболини быстро завоевали популярность, положив начало всемирному успеху итальянского бренда. В апреле 2019 года Pomellato представили новую коллекцию под названием Brera в честь столь памятного для компании места. “Новая коллекция отдает дань уважения наследию Pomellato и креативной атмосфере сегодняшнего Милана. – говорит Кастальдо. – Создавая коллекцию Brera я хотел обратиться к молодежи, познакомив их с увлекательной историей цепочек Pomellato. Поэтому я старался найти особый язык, понятный молодому поколению”. Как и Раболини в 1960х, Кастальдо стремится создавать современные вещи: кольца, ожерелья и серьги, которые обыгрывают фирменный мотив цепочки.

Pomellato – не единственный бренд, берущий начало в районе Брера середины 20 века. Год спустя, после основания Pomellato в 1968 году, появился один из ключевых продуктов Fratelli Rossetti – мокасины Brera, вдохновленные оригинальной атмосферой района Брера. В прошлом году компания отметила 50 лет со дня выхода знаменитых лоферов, и до сих пор модель Brera остается одним из главных бестселлеров Fratelli Rossetti, который получает обновление сезон за сезоном. Миланская марка Valextra, появившаяся в 1937 году, всегда стремилась передать суть миланского стиля. Это особенно заметно по коллекции сумок Brera. Генеральный директор Сара Ферреро не понаслышке знает об этом районе. “Я живу в Брера и каждый день наслаждаюсь его улочками по дороге на работу. – говорит она. – Я часто прохожу мимо бара Jamaica, галереи Pinacoteca, и, конечно, неповторимой Via Brera”. И все же на создание популярной серии сумок дизайнеров вдохновила не столько величественная архитектура, сколько живущие здесь люди. “Именно люди, которых встречаешь каждый день, проходя по местным улицам, подтолкнули нас назвать серию Valextra. Среди них и элегантные женщины, и галантные мужчины, и модные студенты, – объясняет Ферреро. – Наша фирменная сумка олицетворяет

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стиль и атмосферу этой части Милана”. Коллекция Brera объединяет целый ряд фасонов, включая модель с ручкой сверху, с лямкой через плечо и рюкзак. Одну из сумок Ферреро называет идеальным спутником в путешествиях: “Мне очень нравится сумка для шоппинга Brera, она имеет достаточно большой размер и незначительный вес. Эта сумка идеально подойдет для путешествий, поскольку в нее можно вместить все необходимое”. Ферреро знает свой район вдоль и поперек, поэтому при возможности охотно дает советы путешественникам. “Помимо посещения церквей, таких как Santa Maria del Carmine и San Simpliciano, обязательно загляните в один из частных садов. Отличным местом для обеда будет уютный ресторан с невероятно вкусной едой La Latteria на Via San Marco”. Популярность Брера даже не думает идти на спад. Диего Фрателли, возглавляющий бренд Fratelli Rossetti, высказывает свою точку зрения относительно такой популярности: “Район продолжает вдохновлять благодаря своей уникальной идентичности, а именно идеальному пространству, где созданы все условия для развития архитектуры и искусства. Это то место, куда люди обращаются за вдохновением или чтобы положить начало новому движению в сфере искусства”. Возможно, все дело в прошлом этого богемного квартала, однако немаловажную роль в его популяризации сыграли бренды и их неразрывная связь с жизнью района Брера”.

Куда пойти в Брера Рекомендации Винченцо Кастальдо СТИЛЬНЫЙ АПЕРИТИВ Fioraio Bianchi, Via Montebello 7, 20121 Милан, +39 02 2901 4390, fioraiobianchicaffe.it ПРЕДМЕТЫ ИНТЕРЬЕРА Richard Ginori, Piazza San Marco 3, 20121 Милан, +39 02 8901 1646, richardginori1735.com

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ВЕГАНСКИЕ ДЕЛИКАТЕСЫ Soulgreen, Piazzale Principessa Clotilde/Via Amerigo Vespucci, 20124 Милан, +39 02 6269 5162, soulgreen.com ГАЛЕРЕЯ И БОТАНИЧЕСКИЙ САД Pinacoteca di Brera, Via Brera 28, 20121 Милан, +39 02 722631, pinacotecabrera.org СТИЛЬНЫЙ ДЕКОР ДЛЯ ДОМА Dimore Studio в центре Брера, Via Solferino 11, 20121 Милан, +39 02 3653 7088, dimorestudio.eu РОСКОШНЫЙ АНТИКВАРИАТ Roberta e Basta, Via Fiori Chiari 3, 20121 Милан, +39 02 861593, robertaebasta.com

52: BRITISH INVASION БРИТАНСКОЕ ВТОРЖЕНИЕ За последнее время ряды итальянских брендов пополнились художественными руководителями из Великобритании, и результаты не заставили себя ждать, – рассказывает Салли Макилхоун Любая смена в руководстве модным брендом вызывает смешанные чувства. С одной стороны можно попрощаться с полюбившимся стилем, а с другой – предвкушать новый этап развития и новые направления. В последние годы сразу три итальянских бренда возглавили талантливые британские дизайнеры. Лондон и Милан и раньше имели тесную связь, будучи крупными центрами модной индустрии, но последние

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события доказывают, что модный ландшафт полностью переместился в глобальную плоскость. Даниэль Ли присоединился к Bottega Veneta в 2018 году. На его счету сотрудничество с Balenciaga, Maison Margiela и работа над коллекцией прет-а-порте в Céline. Одним словом, резюме Ли говорит само за себя.

Bottega Veneta – бренд с четко устоявшимися традициями и богатой историей, которая заслуживает особого уважения. В коллекции осень-зима 2019/20 дизайнер талантливо совместил собственные идеи с классической эстетикой Bottega Veneta. Знаменитый орнамент intreccio, ставший визитной карточкой бренда, получил новую интерпретацию в стиле оверсайз в новой коллекции сумок, курток и даже обуви, включая мужские оксфорды с блочным узором и женские туфли с элементами квилтинга. Узор из квадратов также появился на великолепном малиновом пальто и бежевом платье с блестящей отделкой. Характерный плетеный узор также был применен к серии трикотажа, что особенно заметно на ярко-оранжевом платье-джемпере с воротником, похожим на шарф. Для мужчин трикотаж претерпел деконструкцию с куртками свободного покроя и байкерскими сапогами и штанами, дополнившими изысканные костюмы. Такой неожиданный шаг получил широкое одобрение среди поклонников, доказывая тот факт, что эксперименты Ли с костюмным наследием Bottega Veneta были оправданным риском. Пол Эндрю, с 2016 года работавший в Salvatore Ferragamo над серией женской обуви и год спустя над всей женской коллекцией, был официально назначен на должность креативного директора в 2019 году. Для многих Ferragamo известен лишь как бренд аксессуаров, но теперь Эндрю выводит на передний план линию прета-порте. Костюмы, платья и юбки с элементами пэчворка выполнены на высочайшем уровне и выглядят соответственно. На собственном опыте дизайнер доказывает, что архивы имеют громадный потенциал и их пересмотр всегда может принести позитивные плоды. В серии верхней одежды заметно выделялись темносинее и коричнево-оранжевое пальто в стиле оверсайз, длинное пальто с подкладкой из овчины и широким поясом, а также вишневая

кожаная куртка-бомбер. При этом дизайнеры нисколько не забыли об аксессуарах. Коллекция обуви включала все: от бирюзовых босоножек на массивном каблуке до высоких сапог с узором Gancio. Структурированные сумки в стиле 50х годов несомненно покорят сердца многих поклонников, но главным хитом, вероятно, станет замшевая сумка-мешок в теплых оттенках серого. Судя по прошедшим в июне показам Pitti Uomo, мужская коллекция весналето 2020 вновь откроет неповторимый взгляд дизайнера на роскошную моду. Не терпится узнать, что же уготовило нам будущее. Джеймс Лонг возглавил линию мужской одежды Iceberg еще в ноябре 2015 года, перейдя на работу с женской одеждой в августе 2016 года. Лауреат премии Fashion Forward Британского совета моды, Лонг предпочитает работать в трендовых направлениях, и особое внимание он уделяет трикотажу. Это идеально вписывается в философию итальянской марки, чья история тесно связана с трикотажной тканью. Начиная с сезона весна-лето 2019 дизайнер перенес мужские показы Iceberg в Лондон. Места для демонстрации одежды, вдохновленной уличным стилем, лучше и не найти. В этом сезоне мужские образы берут свое начало в горнолыжной одежде, стилизованной под городскую моду. Снежно-белые лукбуки среди прочего включают ремни с металлическими заклепками, кофты с еле заметными вырезами и серию трикотажа с диснеевскими персонажами в розовых и зеленых оттенках. В коллекции женской одежды наши фавориты – пурпурные атласные костюмы, ярко-розовые шерстяные кофты свободного покроя и черные платьямакси с вырезом на бедре и сверкающим логотипом бренда. Iceberg, основанный в 1974 году, относительно молодой бренд по сравнению с Bottega и Ferragamo, поэтому молодежные элементы в его премиум-коллекциях смотрятся не просто уместно, но и очень ярко и живо. Очевидно, что в своем стремлении вдохнуть новую жизнь в классическую итальянскую моду, Iceberg, Bottega Veneta и Salvatore Ferragamo сделали абсолютно верный выбор. Пол Эндрю уже приносит Ferragamo значительные прибыли, и если верить мнению модной прессы, то этот тренд не закончится на Bottega и Iceberg. Нет сомнения в том, что инвестиция в британские таланты – мудрое решение.

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84: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С TAX FREE Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить Tax Free формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.95 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

日本 語

42: MILAN’S BOHEMIAN HEART ミラノの前 衛 精 神

ミラノのブレラ地区は昔から創造的エ ネルギーの源で、今もこの地のトップラ グジュアリーブランドにインスピレーシ ョンを与え続けている。ジンジャー・ロ ーズ・クラークがブレラ界隈をめぐっ た。 ブレラ地区には独特のアイデンティティがある。ブ レラ通りの両側に広がるこの地区は、石畳の通り や歴史的建築、活気あふれるアートシーンと魅力 が満載だ。ブレラが文化と芸術のハブになったの は18世紀。当時ハプスブルク帝国内にあったミラノ の支配者、オーストリアの女帝マリア・テレジアが 芸術と文化の中心としてブレラ宮殿を建造したこ とに始まる。ブレラ宮殿は現存し、そこにはブレラ 美術館やブレラ美術学院、ロンバルディア科学文 学研究所がある他、天文台と植物園も併設されて いる。中でも美術学院はクリエイティブな人々が 集まる場所になっている。 globalblue.ru | globalblue.com

ブレラが前衛芸術の源流として地位を築いた のは、1911年創立のバー、 「ジャマイカ」が地元の 社交場になった1950年代から1960年代にかけて のことだ。ここには前衛アーティストのピエロ・マ ンゾーニ、画家のルチオ・フォンタナ、詩人のジュ ゼッペ・ウンガレッティやサルヴァトーレ・クァジ モド、ノーベル賞受賞者でビート世代を象徴する 詩人アレン・ギンズバーグなどがよく訪れた。ブレ ラで学び交流を深めた写真家ウゴ・ムラスをはじ め、何人かの写真家がその様子をカメラにおさめ ている。 ジュエリーブランド「ポメラート」の創設者ピ ノ・ラボリーニも、ジャマイカの常連だった。 「ブレ ラ地区はポメラートの歴史の中で特別な意味を持 っています」と、同ブランドのクリエイティブディレ クター、ヴィンチェンツォ・カスタルドはいう。 「ミラ ノの金細工師を祖父にもつピノ・ラボリーニ は、60年代末に芸術家や写真家、知識人とたいて い伝説のジャマイカで会っていました。革新的で 概念的な初のプレタポルテジュエリーブランド『ポ

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メラート』の発想が生まれたのはここだったので す。」1967年にポメラートが発売された時、ラボリ ーニの画期的なチェーン主体のデザインは瞬く間 に人気を博し、それがブランドの基礎固めとなっ て、その後世界的に高い評価を獲得していく。 2019年4月、ポメラートは新たなコレクション を発表した。その名も「ブレラ」。ブランドにとって とても大切な場所を記念した命名だ。 「この新し いブレラコレクションは、ポメラートとルーツへの、 そして現代ミラノの活気とエネルギーへのオマージ ュなのです」とカスタルド。 「ブレラコレクションで 若い世代に語り掛けたかった。ポメラートの金細 工の豊かな伝統をぜひ見てもらいたいと思ったの です。ですから、若い世代が親近感を覚えるよう な新たな表現を探りました。」1960年代にラボリ ーニがしたように、カスタルドは現代的な作品を 創ろうとしている。そして生まれたのが、同ブランド の代表的なチェーンのモチーフを新たに作り替え た指輪、ネックレス、イヤリングのコレクション だ。 20世紀半ばのブレラと深い縁があるブランド は、ポメラートだけではない。ポメラート創設の1 年後にあたる1968年、フラテッリ・ロセッティの代 表作「ブレラ」モカシンローファーが誕生した。ブ レラ地区の自由で新しいエネルギーがインスピレ ーションとなったのだ。フラテッリ・ロセッティは 昨年このスタイルの50周年を祝ったが、ブレラは 今も同ブランドの主要なデザインで、シーズンごと にアップデートされている。 1937年創立のミラノブランド「ヴァレクストラ」 では常に、ミラノスタイルのエッセンスをとらえよう としてきた。それが顕著に表れているのが、 「ブレ ラ」シリーズのバッグだ。 CEOのサラ・フェレロ は、ブレラ地区に個人的つながりがある。 「私はブ レラに住んでいて、毎日オフィスまで歩いて通って います。ジャマイカ・バーや活気ある美術学院を通 り過ぎ、最後に素晴らしいブレラ通りを通るので す。」とはいえ、通りと同名のバッグシリーズのイン スピレーションとなったのは美しい建物や建築で はなく、人々だった。 「ヴァレクストラのこのシリー ズの名前は、実はこの通りを歩く人々、リラックス したエレガンスを漂わせる男女や若いヒッピー学 生を見て思いついた」というフェレロは、 「このスタ イルは、ミラノのこの地区のスタイルと精神を象徴 しています。実用的でありながらエレガントで、ク リーンなラインの造りでありながら優しさがある、 そんなスタイルです。」 ブレラコレクションには、トップハンドルやク ロスボディ、バックパックなど様々なスタイルが含 まれている。フェレロは、そのうちの一つが理想の トラベルバッグだという。 「大ぶりで超軽量の『ブ globalblue.com

レラ』ショッパーが大好きなんです。入れたいもの を全部入れてもまだ入る、旅行に完璧なカバンで す。」 自分の住む地区を知り尽くしているフェレロ は、ブレラでお薦めの場所を快く紹介してくれた。 サンタ・マリア・デル・カルミネ教会やサン・シンプ リチアーノ聖堂などの教会巡りはもちろん、 「プラ イベートガーデンもぜひ覗いてみてください。お昼 時ならサン・マルコ通りのレストラン、ラ・ラッテリ ア・ディ・サンマルコ。本当に家族的なスタイルで 素晴らしい食事が楽しめます。」 ブレラ地区への愛着は決して揺らぐことがな い。フラテッリ・ロセッティの会長ディエゴ・フラテ ッリは、この地区の永遠の魅力をこう語る。 「明確 なアイデンティティがあるから、インスピレーショ ンを与え続けるのです。デザインやアートが生まれ る理想的な土壌があり、ヒントを探しに出かけた り、芸術運動を始めたりする場所になっています。 」この地区とヒッピー文化の関係は今なお残るが、 ブレラにインスピレーションを得たデザインがそ れぞれ成功し長い人気を誇るのは、愛されるブレ ラと各ブランドとのパーソナルなつながりのおかげ であるのは間違いない。 ブレラに来たら訪ねたい場所 ヴィンチェンツォ・カスタルドのお薦めのスポット 粋にアペリティーヴォ（食前酒）を楽しむなら フィオライオ・ビアンキ（Fioraio Bianchi） Via Montebello 7, 20121 ミラノ, +39 02 2901 4390, fioraiobianchicaffe.it 素敵なホームウェアなら リチャードジノリ（Richard Ginori） Piazza San Marco 3, 20121 ミラノ, +39 02 8901 1646, richardginori1735.com おいしいヴィーガン料理なら ソウルグリーン（Soulgreen） Piazzale Principessa Clotilde/Via Amerigo Vespucci, 20124 ミラノ, +39 02 6269 5162, soulgreen.com 文化と芸術、隠れた植物園なら ブレラ美術館（Pinacoteca di Brera） Via Brera 28, 20121 ミラノ, +39 02 722631, pinacotecabrera.org

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とびきり刺激的なデザインなら ディモーレ・スタジオ（Dimore Studio）, Via Solferino 11, 20121 ミラノ, +39 02 3653 7088, dimorestudio.eu シックなアンティークなら

写真: IMAXTREE

ロベルタ・エ・バスタ（Roberta e Basta） Via Fiori Chiari 3, 20121 ミラノ, +39 02 861593, robertaebasta.com

52: BRITISH INVASION

英 国デザイナーが席巻 イタリアの老 舗ブランドが、数シーズ ン前から英国人クリエイティブディレ クターを起用し大 成功を収めている。 サリー・マキルホーンがレポートする。 歴史あるファッションレーベルの旗手交代があ ると、いつも複 雑な気持ちになる。それまでのス タイルとの別れを惜しみつつ、そのブランドの新 たなページが開かれることに期待を膨らませ、 誰がその未来を形 づくるのだろうとワクワクする のだ。ここ数シーズンでは、イタリアの3つのブラ ンドがイギリス出身デザイナーを起用して大 成 功している。ともにファッション都市であるロン ドンとミラノのつながりは昔から強いが、英国人 デザイナーの登 用という展開はファッション界が 真にグローバル化していることの表れだ。 ダニエル・リーは2018年にボッテガ・ヴェネ タのクリエイティブディレクターに就任した。彼 はバレンシアガとメゾン・マルジェラセリーヌで 経験を積んだ後、セリーヌの既 製服部門ディレク ターを経てボッテガ・ヴェネタ入りしている。その 経 歴を見ただけで実力のほどは明らかだ。ボッ テガ・ヴェネタは、明確な決まりがあり、伝統の 職 人 技をとても大 切にするブランドだ。リーは 2019/20年秋冬コレクションで、ボッテガ・ヴェ ネタの美学を大 切にしながら自身のデザイン観 を反映できることを証明した。 ボッテガ・ヴェネタといえば「イントレチャー ト」レザー。そのモチーフの拡大 版がバッグやジ ャケットに登場し、女性 用のキルトのパンプスや 男性 用のごついオックスフォードスタイルなど靴 にまで 使われていた。この四角中心のパターン は、光沢あるラズベリー色のコートにも。同じグ リッター加工の黄褐色のドレスとの組み合わせ がなんとも素敵だった。編み込みのディテール はボッテガ・ヴェネタのニットウェアにも見られ た。その最たる例が、作り付けのスカーフのよう な襟 が付いた鮮烈なオレンジのジャンパードレ スだ。メンズは、デコントラクテッドのニットウェ ア、四角いシルエットのジャケット、洗 練された 装いにキレを与えるバイカーブーツとバイカーパ ンツ。この予想外の方向性はボッテガ・ヴェネタ にとって嬉しい変化で、伝統あるブランドの革新 というリーの思い切った賭けは成功している。 サルヴァトーレ・フェラガモでは、2016 年に ウィメンズフットウェア担当ディレクターに就任 左：アイスバーグ 秋冬コレクション

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し、その1年 後にウィメンズウェアのクリエイティ ブディレクターとなったポール・アンドリュー が、2019年2月に同ブランドのクリエイティブデ ィレクターに正式に任 命された。フェラガモとい えば 靴やカバンというイメージがどうしてもある が、アンドリューは既 製服を前面に押し出してい る。パッチワーク効果をテーラリングやドレス、 スカートにさらりと取り入れ 、とびきりシックな ルックスに仕上げた。1942年からあるウェッジ サンダルをヒントにしたアンドリューは、過去の 作品資 料をインスピレーションにして素晴らしい 商品が生まれ得ることを証明している。アウター ウェアは、ミッドナイトブルーと錆朱色のサテン 地で仕立てたたっぷりしたコートや、帯風ベルト がついたシープスキンのマキシコート、チェリー レッドの革製ボマージャケットなど圧巻だった。 もちろん、靴やカバンもコレクションには欠かせ ない。ストラクチュアルなヒールのミントグリーン のピープトウサンダルから、ガンチョ柄のニーハ イブーツまで、フットウェアも素敵で 十分履ける ものだった。50年代ファッションにヒントを得た ストラクチュアルなバッグは、ショルダーバッグ からミニバッグまで広く人気が出そうだが、心と きめくアイテムは暖かみのあるグレージュのスエ ードのバケツ型バックだ。6月にアンドリューが ピッティ・ウォモで披 露する2020年春夏のメン ズウェアは、彼が思い描く高級ブランド「フェラ ガモ」像を強く打ち出すものになる。このブラン ドの将来が楽しみだ。 アイスバーグでは、ジェームズ・ロングが 2015年11月にメンズウェアライン、2016 年8月に ウィメンズウェアのクリエイティブディレクターに 就任した。英国ファッション評議会のファッショ ンフォワード賞に輝いたこのデザイナーは、ニッ トウェアを中心とするユニークな方向性で 知ら れる。編み物をルーツとする一風 変わったイタリ アンブランドにぴったりの人材だ。ロングは2019 年春夏から、アイスバーグのメンズウェアショー をロンドンに移した。ストリートウェアにインスピ レーションを得たルックスには理想的な舞台 だ。今シーズンのメンズは、スキーウェアをヒン トにしつつ都会的な雰囲気が 漂うモダンな装い で、スタッズベルトとポロネックのオールホワイト のルックスが人目を引き、ディズニーのキャラク ターが 描かれたピンクと薄緑 色のニットウェアが ほどよいユーモアを添えている。ウィメンズウェ アは、マジェンタのサテン地を使ったテーラリン グ、ネオンピンクのたっぷりしたカーディガン、 太 腿までのスリットが入った黒のマキシドレス、 パネルに配されたラメのブランド名など、欲しい モノばかり。1974 年創立のアイスバーグはボッテ globalblue.com

ガ・ヴェネタやフェラガモに比べればまだ新しい ブランドで、その若々しい高級ファッションは現 代的で大 胆で 新 鮮だ。 いかにもイタリアらしいファッションハウス に新たな息吹を吹き込むデザイナーを探してい たアイスバーグ、ボッテガ・ヴェネタ、サルヴァト ーレ・フェラガモは、明らかに正しい選 択をし た。ポール・アンドリューの就任後、早くもフェラ ガモの利益は伸びている。ボッテガ・ヴェネタや アイスバーグについての記事を読んでも、このト レンドが広がっていくのは間違いなさそうだ。英 国勢の起用は確かに賢明な投資と言えるだろ う。

84: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

海 外で のお買い物が免 税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利 用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街 にある30万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得 になります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブル ーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用くださ い。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を 探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グロー バル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のス テップを踏むだけです。 1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免 税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってく ださい。 2. 還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にス タンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルー の還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。 お問い合わせ: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.95以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最 高15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い 戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数 料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承 ください。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しを ご希望の場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免税書類 ごとに課されます。

Speed up the TAX FREE process Register your details online and save time when you get your Tax Free Forms. 线上注册个人信息，帮您缩短退税 申请表的填写时间 Зарегистрируйтесь онлайн и сэкономьте время на заполнении бланков Tax Free

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SHOP TAX FREE

SO U V E N I R

The Sabbadini boutique has stood on Milan’s prestigious Via Montenapoleone since the 1940s and has provided exquisite jewels to the Milan’s most discerning customers throughout that time. The family-run brand is a champion of both tradition and innovation, respecting classic techniques while experimenting with unusual materials such as coloured lacquer and pioneering invisible stone settings to promote the beauty of its gems. The pictured Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

leaf earrings, which feature glittering citrine set against black lacquer, will add an ideal autumnal touch to any outfit. lt Sabbadini earrings, €4,900, Sabbadini, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8228, sabbadini.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 70

PHOTO: CESARE GUALDONI

An Autumnal Touch

RELAX. REFRESH. REFUND. Our Global Blue Lounges are the perfect places to relax during your shopping trip. Situated in the most fashionable areas of the world’s shopping capitals, the invitation only lounges are a haven for Tax Free Shopping.

Barcelona Passeig de Gràcia, 78

Munich Maximilianstraße 30, 80539

Florence Piazza della Repubblica 6, 50123

Paris 4 rue Cambon, 75001

London 18-19 Albemarle St, W1S 4BB

Rome Piazza di Spagna 29, 00187

Madrid Calle de Claudio Coello 83, 28001

Venice Piscina S. Moise, 30124

Milan Via Santo Spirito 5, 20121