SHOP Milan SS16

MILAN | МИЛАН | 米兰 | ミラノ

MILAN Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2016

Page 60 BE BOLD: explore Milan’s exciting new fashion direction

Jewelry Collection.

Discover more.

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Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this world-renowned style centre. Milan has much to ofer, as our guide on page 98 reveals. Readers who appreciate cutting-edge interiors will enjoy our feature about designer Patricia Urquiola (page 76), and in this issue we also explore some of the city’s best eateries.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Milan. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

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ILLUSTRATION: CAJSA HOLGERSSON

CONTRIBUTORS

Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims interviewed leading designer Patricia Urquiola for this edition of SHOP Milan.

Josh also writes for publications including Wallpaper and his latest published book is Icons of Women’s Style. globalblue.com

Beth Druce Beth Druce is a fashion and luxury writer, who also works as a consultant for a variety of luxury fashion companies.

For this issue of SHOP she has contributed our Italy’s New Woman feature about the fashion trends for the season.

Cajsa Holgersson London-based Swedish illustrator Cajsa Holgersson created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Milan.

Her illustration is based on our feature about the bright and colourful trends seen on Milan’s spring/summer 2016 catwalks (turn to page 60). Cajsa’s bold and graphic style and her wonderful use of shapes and colour made her the ideal choice for this cover, which shows Italy’s new woman coming to the fore on a fashion show catwalk. Wired, Fuji Film and Women’s Health are among Cajsa’s previous clients.

Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Ximena Daneri SHOP’s fashion editor Ximena Daneri studied fashion and textile design in her home city of Buenos Aires before working as an image consultant for TV shows and styling magazine fashion shoots in Argentina.

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Cajsa Holgersson Contributors Beth Druce, Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Fashion intern Danielle De Wolfe

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yangzi Liang, Manqing Li Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy

News editor Rebecca Davies Assistant news editor Theresa Harold

Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Charlotte Rogers Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Olivia Chou, Sammy Ha

G L O B A L B L U E I TA LY Country manager Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales managers Antonella Bertossi, Flavio Gatti Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Marketing coordinator Alberta Reinach Sales key account manager Stefano Cardinale Sales account manager Marco Cavalli Global account managers Simone Borgheresi, Sabrina Schiavone, Salvatore Smith Key account managers Monica Affaticati, Benedetta Andreini, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Manuela Intili, Consuelo Murari, Marco Savino Account managers Nicoletta Aromando, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Laura Durante, Gabriele Giuntini, Diana Martin, Sonia Mura, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Giordano Senzacqua Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue

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CONTENTS

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

p. 60

Products 24

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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Milan this season My Favourites Milan-based designer Paula Cademartori and Simonetta Ravizza, who runs a specialist fashion label under her own name, reveal their top tips for spring/ summer 2016 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of Milan’s best dressed this season

News 42 44

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Milan News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

Above: Gucci spring/summer 2016

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In Store … … with Maria Cristina Buccellati in Buccellati’s jewellery boutique on Via Montenapoleone

Features 60

68

76

Cover story: Italy’s New Woman On the catwalks in Milan, the trademark glamour of Italian labels has been replaced with bold, individual style, explains Beth Druce Best Foot Forward The modern man wants more from his footwear, and Italy’s leading brands are stepping up, says Hannah Lewis Design Queen Talented designer Patricia Urquiola is making waves in the world of Italian interior design. She talks inspiration and innovation with Josh Sims

KARLIE KLOSS LONG ISLAND, NEW YORK SEPTEMBER 2015 MARELLA.COM MILANO CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE CORSO XXII MARZO 4

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CONTENTS p. 84

Experience 84

92

Café Society From indulgent breakfast menus to extensive sandwich ranges and world-class coffee, Milan’s caffès have much to offer, as Kirsty Andrews discovers Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels

Guide 98

Guide Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Milan

Essentials 130 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

Translations 132 Русский Перевод 142 美文翻译 148 日本語翻訳

Souvenir 154 The essential item to bring home

ENGLISH | Р УС С К И Й | 中 文

VISIT US ONLINE...

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

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FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent Above: 10 Corso Como café’s beautiful courtyard

PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

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VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 16

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CHECK OUT

TIME TO SHINE Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced its new Rendez-vous Moon watch. In this eye-catching timepiece, the moon and constellations of stars shine against a dark-blue night sky, with the moon symbolising time as well as womanhood.

The mother of pearl moon disc is available in 36mm or 39mm diameter and the timepiece Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

features a blue satin strap and engraved motifs.

Sparkling brilliant-cut diamonds connect all the diferent elements of this watch to create a mesmerising accessory. fm Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-vous Moon watch, â‚Ź53,500, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 1376, jaeger-lecoultre.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 110

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MY FAVOURITES: Paula Cademartori Brazilian-Italian designer Paula Cademartori moved to Milan in 2005. She studied industrial design as well as fashion, and has pursued her passion for handbags, small leather goods and shoes through her own label. Paula has a keen eye for detail and her handbags are recognisable by their sophisticated buckles which have been inspired by the Greek pi symbol – π. Ximena Daneri asks Paula about her favourite fashion and beauty items for this season paulacademartori.com

1. ‘I think that the pleated skirt, as seen at Gucci, will be the indispensable silhouette this season’

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Gucci pleated dress, €1,800, Gucci, Via Montenapoleone 5-7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 771271, gucci.com

2. ‘For shoes, I admire the work of designers such us Miuccia Prada, Azzedine Alaïa and Givenchy’ Givenchy shoes, price on request, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, givenchy.com

3. ‘When I’m travelling, I always take a black eyeliner pencil, shiny lip gloss and mascara’

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

Lancôme Hypnôse mascara, €29.95, Douglas, Corso Buenos Aires 42, 20124 Milan, +39 02 2941 2470, lancome.it

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

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4. ‘This season I also like the new fragrance from Alaïa’ Alaïa eau de parfum, 100ml, €115.69, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, alaia.fr

5. ‘I’m particularly fond of my new shapes: the Eugenie bucket bag and the Babeth shoulder bag. They are made in Italy and available in diferent materials’ Paula Cademartori Babeth bag, €1,260, desboutique.it

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6. ‘One of my favourite designers, Raf Simons, has shown his last collection as Christian Dior’s creative director’ Dior, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7809, dior.com

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MY FAVOURITES: Simonetta Ravizza Simonetta Ravizza founded her specialist fashion label in 1990. With a fagship store on Via Montenapoleone, the Simonetta Ravizza brand has built a reputation for its sophisticated and contemporary items which are made in Italy from leather, fur, and other luxury materials.

Here, Simonetta shares her style tips for the spring and summer with Fani Mari

1. ‘These are my favourite items from my latest collection’

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Simonetta Ravizza leather trenchcoat, €2,100; silk maxi skirt, €880; leather sash, €450; Simonetta Ravizza, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 2921, simonettaravizza.it

2. ‘From Moleskine’s selection of stationery, this mini-planner is always in my purse’ Moleskine yellow notebook, €12.10, Moleskine, Via Dante 15, 20123 Milan, +39 02 8909 2219, moleskine.com

3. ‘This is the most classic and glamorous bag’ Hermès Birkin bag, price on request, Hermès, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3495, hermes.com

4. ‘Gianvito Rossi is my favourite shoe designer’ Gianvito Rossi Crissy shoes, from €595, Gianvito Rossi, Via Santo Spirito 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0988, gianvitorossi.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

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5. ‘Keiko Mecheri’s Oliban contains cedar, tobacco and amber. It’s very intense’

PHOTO: (3) QUENTIN BERTOUX

Keiko Mecheri Oliban eau de parfum, 75ml, €140, Profumo, Via Brera 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7202 3334, profumomilano.com

6. ‘My iPad is indispensable’ Apple iPad Air 2, from €499 each, MediaStore, Via Mercato 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 2931 0038, apple.com

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WILD AT HEART Pair distressed denim with distinctive prints for an efortlessly cool look

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1. Calvin Klein Jeans denim jacket, €159, Calvin Klein Jeans, Corso Buenos Aires 12, 20124 Milan, +39 02 2953 2164, calvinklein.com

3. Rosantica head piece, €240, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, rosantica.com

5. Vertu New Signature phone, €9,400, Vertu, Via Montenapoleone 29, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 3171, vertu.com

2. Fendi 3Jours bag, price on request, Fendi, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1617, fendi.com

4. Diana Vreeland Outrageously Vibrant fragrance, 100ml, €215, Olfattorio, Via Brera 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3653 2901, dianavreeland.com

6. Agnona Tango sandals, €650, Agnona, Via Sant’Andrea 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 798649, agnona.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

PHOTO: (6) CARLO BEVILACQUA

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MONOCHROME MIX Black and white always guarantee classic style

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1. Issey Miyake coat, from €785, Boule de Neige, Corso Como 8, 20154 Milan, +39 02 6291 0777, isseymiyake.com 2. Hermès lacquered-wood bracelets, from €215, Hermès, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3495, hermes.com

3. Swarovski earrings, €119, Swarovski, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 15, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7209 4386, swarovski.com 4. Jimmy Choo Letti shoes, €695, Jimmy Choo, Via Sant’Andrea 1A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4548 1770, jimmychoo.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

5. Damiani ring, €2,690, Damiani, Via Montenapoleone 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 8088, damiani.com 6. Cos cropped trousers, €79, Cos, Corso Venezia 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0649, cosstores.com

PHOTOS: (2) VICENTE SAHUC; (4) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY; (5) GIORSI; (7) KEEHO

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7. Elena Ghisellini Felina clutch, €545, Anna Ravazzoli, Corso Genova 16, 20123 Milan, +39 02 832 3088, elenaghisellini.com 8. Tod’s belt, €390, Tod’s, Via della Spiga 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2423, tods.com

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9. Le Labo Thé Noir 29 fragrance, 100ml, €185, Profumo, Via Brera 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7202 3334, lelabofragrance.com

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10. Bulgari watch, €19,000, Bulgari, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777001, bulgari.com

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DAY TO NIGHT The clever use of accessories and high heels means your jeans will see you through to the evening 1

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1. Pinko leather vest, €540, Pinko, Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 4184, pinko.it 2. Dodo necklaces, price on request, Dodo, Corso Venezia 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7581, dodo.it

3. Alexander McQueen the Box bag, €1,495, Alexander McQueen, Via Pietro Verri 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3374, alexandermcqueen.com 4. Hugo Boss shoes, €795, Hugo Boss, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 4667, hugoboss.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

5. 7 For All Mankind jeans, €260, 7 For All Mankind, Via Manzoni 43, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4950 4361, 7forallmankind.com

PHOTOS: (1) TOMMASO VECCHI; (3) BERNHARD DECKERT

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JUMP TO IT

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Make a statement with this season’s must-have item, worn with colourful accessories 3

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1. Marco de Vincenzo Marabou heels, €910, Giò Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3186, marcodevincenzo.com

4. Chanel Rouge Coco Shine lipstick, €32, La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, chanel.com

2. Valentino Garavani handbag, €1,800, Valentino, Via Montenapoleone 20, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6182, valentino.com

5. M Missoni jumpsuit, €750, M Missoni, Corso Venezia 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3651 0974, m-missoni.com

3. Cartier watch, price on request, Cartier, Via Montenapoleone 16, 20121 Milan, +39 02 303 0421, cartier.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

HUGOBOSS.COM

HUGO BOSS ITALIA S.P.A. Phone +39 02 451681

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NEW NEUTRALS Add diferent textures when wearing muted colours this season 1

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1. Etro shirt, €480, Etro, Via Montenapoleone 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 5049, etro.it

3. Bang & Olufsen BeoSound Moment music system, €2,195, Bang & Olufsen, Corso Garibaldi 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 4193, bang-olufsen.com

2. Alberto Guardiani shoes, €425, Alberto Guardiani, Corso Venezia 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1697, albertoguardiani.com

4. Tissot Chemin des Tourelles watch, €820, Tissot, Piazza del Duomo 31, 20121 Milan, +39 3 4257 02963, tissotwatches.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

5. Santoni backpack, €820, Santoni, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0508, santonishoes.com

PHOTOS: (3) RASMUS DENGSØ; (5) ROBERTO MAZZOLA

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Attendees at Milan Fashion Week combined monochrome embroidery with sparkling jewellery, metallic details and playful, eye-catching handbags from Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

STREET STYLE

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

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SHOP WINDOW

JEWELLERY BOX The renewed jewellery area in La Rinascente’s flagship department store in Milan showcases a glittering range of luxury brands. The 500-square-metre space, which opened in 2015, is home to brands such as Bulgari, Chopard, Longines and Dodo, and invites clients to discover fine timepieces as well as high-end jewellery collections. La Rinascente, which has an illustrious history stretching Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

back 150 years, has branches all over Italy, in cities such as Rome, Florence and Palermo, and is one of Italy’s foremost shopping destinations. Overseas clients are invited to apply for the International Visitors’ Card which offers exclusive in-store advantages and promotions all year around. th La Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, rinascente.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 103

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STEPPING OUT Every Car Shoe loafer is handmade by artisans, using the skills and craftsmanship they have demonstrated since the company was launched in Italy in 1963. Founder Gianni Mostile, inspired by his passion for racing cars, invented and patented the familiar Car Shoe moccasins with soles set with tiny rubber nubs.

Car Shoe has been part-owned by the Prada Group since 2001 and is known for its bright footwear in simple yet elegant shapes which are available in a wide range of materials and leathers. This season’s key designs include calfskin loafers, python wedges, Menorcan shoes made in raffia and mink sandals. rd Car Shoe, Via della Spiga 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 4027, carshoe.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 112

STYLE MASTERCLASS Ermanno Scervino’s clothes epitomise glamorous, jet-set style. The designer takes inspiration from the time he’s spent in Milan, Paris, New York and London to create collections that are a masterclass in Italian style.

The Giò Moretti boutique on elegant Via della Spiga is the ideal setting in which to discover the spring/summer 2016 collection, which experiments with the seductive effects of lace.

Expect red carpet-worthy gowns in chiffon and organza alongside pretty daytimeappropriate jacquard separates. irs Giò Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3186, ermannoscervino.it FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 112

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

IN BRIEF Fragrance brand Locherber has opened its first standalone boutique. In the retro-style space on Corso Magenta, which features graphic tiled floors, Perspex shelving and bright pink ceilings, customers are encouraged to browse the brand’s vast choice of fragrances, which are presented in glass ampoules

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PHOTO: AGOSTINO OSIO

SLICK RICK

GO WITH THE FLOW Luxury leather brand Belstaff has updated its classic 1950s-inspired four-pocket jacket (€1,895). Looking to the sea, creative director Delphine Ninous has embraced lighter technical fabrics; these are more fluid than the fabric used in previous seasons and the innovation is exemplified in this jacket with a crackedleather effect. It was recently announced that Liv Tyler has been appointed ambassador and creative contributor for the brand, following in the footsteps of Kate Moss. Other pioneering women associated with Belstaff include aviator Amy Johnson and racing driver Doreen Evans. rd Belstaff, Via della Spiga 19, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3653 3106, belstaff.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 112

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Rick Owens’s first concept store, designed by Anna Tumaini, is located on Via Monte di Pietà. The architect, who has collaborated with Owens to design all his stores, has given the boutique a minimalist design featuring rough concrete pillars, wall-to-wall mirrors, marble furniture and white monoliths of polyurethane foam. The 600-square-metre space, all on one floor, is in the heart of Milan, between the fashion district and the famous Brera arts district. The store carries all the Rick Owens collections of clothing and accessories along with beautiful, minimalist furniture designs. rd Rick Owens, Via Monte di Pietà 13, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4538 6030, rickowens.eu FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 116

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DESIGN FOR LIFE

TIMELESS STAPLES

This year sees the 55th edition of Salone del Mobile, the influential international interior design fair, which runs from 12 to 17 April. The biennial EuroCucina and the International Bathroom Exhibition will be back this year. Don’t miss the screening of Matteo Garrone’s short film ‘Before Design: Classic’, or the ‘Rooms. New Domestic Landscapes’ exhibition at the Triennale di Milano.

Download the ‘Salone del Mobile.Milano 2016’ app for iOS and Android to help you plan your visit. th Salone del Mobile, Fiera Milano, Strada Statale del Sempione 28, 20017 Rho, +39 02 725941, salonemilano.it

Menswear label Corneliani produces well-made staples which are relevant this season, especially as the prep-school look is on-trend. There is a lightness to the Italian brand’s latest collection which uses cottons, linens, silks and leathers. Corneliani successfully combines cutting-edge techniques, modern designs and timeless hand-finished tailoring. These slim-fit stretch chinos, white micro chevron cotton shirt, playful salmon checked jacket and buttery leather holdall sum up the brand’s look. rd Corneliani, Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7955, corneliani.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 110

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BRIGHT FUTURE Seeking inspiration for her spring/summer 2016 collection, designer Narguess Hatami turned her attention to the grand palaces of the Persian Empire. Her womenswear label Miahatami, whose first collection appeared in autumn/winter 2015/16, particularly references paintings, frescoes and carpets. This season’s kaleidoscope of colours reflects the blues, canary yellows, flame reds and sunny oranges which adorn the tiles that cover the walls of these sumptuous buildings. Hatami graduated in culture and techniques of costume and fashion from the Università degli Studi in Bologna, and is a hot topic in fashion circles right now – she’s certainly a designer we’ll be watching. rd Tessabit, Via Milano 107, 22100 Como, +39 03 126 2043, miahatami.com

SEA HERE Each season, without fail, Vivienne Westwood creates a must-have collection of jewellery with an unconventional twist.

The Medea collection of jewellery was inspired by the Mediterranean coastline and bohemian high society in 1970s Morocco. Nautically inspired woven chains are hand-hammered to lend an organic look, while these articulated fish earrings (€130) are gold-plated with crystal eyes and will provide the perfect finishing touch to your outfit. rd Vivienne Westwood, Corso Venezia 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7608 0222, viviennewestwood.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 105

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

MILANO C.so V. Emanuele

C.so Vercelli, 35

Galleria V. Emanuele, 69 C.so Buenos Aires, 39

C.so XXII Marzo, 5

(angolo Galleria S. Carlo)

C.so Genova, 20

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DENIM AND DINING Denim brand Replay ambitiously combines a flagship store, a bar and a restaurant in its premises on Piazza Gae Aulenti. Browse the latest Replay collections in the tailored denim shop, which specialises in perfectly fitting jeans, then enjoy a cocktail in the Octavius bar, which is designed to evoke the atmosphere of a classic liner cruising the Italian Riviera. The Stage restaurant offers a taste of modern Milanese cuisine, from traditional regional dishes to freshly prepared sushi and sashimi. irs Replay, Octavius and The Stage, Piazza Gae Aulenti 4, 20124 Milan, +39 02 6208 6374, replaythestage.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 120

WATCH THIS SPACE

STROKE OF GENIUS

The new multibrand store from Pisa Orologeria pays homage to fine watchmaking and stocks all the top watch brands, from Audemars Piguet to Zenith. The shop caters to a sophisticated clientele and carries several limited-edition pieces made exclusively for Pisa. This family enterprise was founded in 1940 and is now run by the founder’s daughters. It is acknowledged as one of the best watch stores in Europe for its longstanding tradition of professionalism and variety of products. Horophiles can discover more about the complex mechanisms of watches by observing technicians at work in the state-ofthe-art laboratory. In addition to selling high-end timepieces, Pisa Orologeria has recently launched a line of jewellery. th Pisa Orologeria, Via Pietro Verri 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 762081, pisaorologeria.com

For spring/summer 2016, Baldinini fuses elegance with informality for an easy take on refined dressing. Take this slip-on shoe (â‚Ź350), for example; the delicate brushstrokes of pastel colours contrast sharply with the plain white sole to create a comfortable yet striking footwear option. Elsewhere in the collection, laser-cut leather and embossed metallics lend the range an eye-catching, summery vibe.

Since this family-run Italian brand was founded in 1910, it has built a reputation for quality that it maintains to this day. To showcase its craft heritage, Baldinini has drawn on a variety of techniques, such as weaving, hand-painting and inlaying. These details can be appreciated in every product, from sandals and knee-high boots to handbags. th Baldinini, Via Montenapoleone 15, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 2002, baldinini.it

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 108

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 110

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FRAGRANCE REDEFINED

IT’S A WRAP

Floriental is the newest scent in the Comme des Garçons fragrance repertoire.

Redefining the rules of perfumery, the Japanese brand which was founded by Rei Kawakubo has created a completely new fragrance concept. This contemporary eau de parfum, which is ironically based around the cistus, a flower with no smell, has no definite top, middle or base note, so each ingredient emerges and recedes in an opulent confusion.

CLASSICAL ELEGANCE

Key ingredients include sandalwood, labdanum resin, vetiver, pink pepper and plum liqueur. Floriental eau de parfum (from €80) is available in 50ml and 100ml sizes and is presented in a shiny red version of Comme des Garçons’ signature pebbleshaped bottle. rd 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20124 Milan, +39 02 2900 2674, comme-des-garcons.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 120

The Marina Rinaldi brand, established in 1980, was named after founding director Achille Maramotti’s great grandmother, who in 1850 owned a women’s tailoring workshop. This was revolutionary for a woman at the time and the company is still making waves. Marina Rinaldi’s latest collection showcases all the finest aspects of the label, from flattering fits to high-quality fabrics. This blue linen coat (€790) with wide lapels and waist-cinching belt is lightweight enough to wear during the summer, while the plain colour keeps it unfussy and smart. th Marina Rinaldi, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II/ Piazza del Liberty 2, 20122 Milan, +39 02 782065, marinarinaldi.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 103

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Quintessentially British brand Burberry has installed an area in its Milan flagship store dedicated to its classic scarves. For spring and summer, lightweight cashmere scarves will be available in a selection of over 30 colourways, including popular heritage shades of camel, stone, charcoal, navy and red.

The Burberry Scarf Bar provides a monogramming service that allows customers to personalise their scarves with up to three initials. These Scottish-made scarves (€725) are modern classics that will last well beyond the season – we particularly like the leopard and heart-print versions. rd Burberry, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3601 0852, burberry.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 110

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JOIN THE CLUB

PHOTO: © CHRIS ALLERTON

September 2015 saw the opening of Ralph Lauren’s first private luxury club, the Palazzo Ralph Lauren.

Located in the historic Casa Campanini, the exclusive venue allows members to discover the world of Ralph Lauren at their leisure. In addition to benefits such as priority restaurant reservations and event invitations, members also gain access to exclusive items and personalisation services. The club also showcases the brand’s menswear, womenswear, homeware, watches and fine jewellery. th Palazzo Ralph Lauren, Via San Barnaba 27, 20122 Milan, +39 02 550571, ralphlauren.com IN BRIEF

HEEL APPEAL Prada always presents memorable shoes at its shows; this season’s featured strappy, pointed, pompom-embellished examples. These kitten-heel T-bar sandals in silver leather and light brown suede (€990) are the brand’s vision for the modern woman. rd Prada, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 63-65, 20121 Milan, +39 02 876979, prada.com

Barberino’s barber shop is well worth a visit. Located at Corso Magenta 10, in an 18th-century building, the salon’s interior has been designed to create a vintage feel. Services include shaves, facials, manicures and haircuts

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 102

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FIFTIES CHARM Roberto Cavalli customers can rely on finding an element of fun in his label’s clothing and accessories. This season the Italian designer’s sunglasses look to the glamour and tradition of vintage fashion, which has been reinterpreted into a contemporary product.

Naturally, you can depend on quality materials, as well as details such as the gold metal hooks which clasp these sunglasses’ cat-eye frames, and 1950s-inspired arms (€250). rd Roberto Cavalli, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 763 0771, robertocavalli.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 110

Milano Via della Spiga, 42 tel. 02 76015435

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IN STORE: BUCCELLATI

‘My grandfather Mario founded Buccellati after an apprenticeship at Milanese jewellers Bottega. He became famous and since then the company has been developed by the Buccellati family. My brother Andrea is the president and creative director and my brother Gino works in the silver factory in Bologna; our cousin Luca manages the Milan boutique and looks after VIP clients all around the world while I manage the communications department.

‘We’ve always been located on Via Montenapoleone, although we’ve moved up and down the street! We’ve been at Via Montenapoleone 23 since 2003. This street is the home of luxury brands in Milan and is a reference point for visitors who are looking for items which are made in Italy.

‘We also have stores and corners around the world which are designed by architects and a Buccellati concept is applied to each store wherever it’s located. All Buccellati stores have a particular atmosphere, created by the nuances of, for example, the wood panels and the furniture; the lighting is very important.

‘Recent launches include our Opera and Icona collections in Paris and London and we also have one-of-a-kind pieces throughout the world, which make every store special.

‘The workmanship and engravings encapsulate our brand. All Buccellati jewels are handcrafted, hand-engraved and hand-set, as you would have found in an Italian Renaissance goldsmith’s bottega (workshop).

‘It’s always memorable when clients and friends gather at our Via Montenapoleone boutique for events: it’s like hosting them in our own home.’

Save up to 15.5% by shopping Tax Free, see page 130

PHOTO: NICK HARVEY/REX FEATURES

Luxury jewellery house Buccellati was founded in Milan in 1919. Still run as a family business, it creates beautiful jewellery inspired by the arts, theatre and paintings, with a focus on classic Italian style interpreted in contemporary ways.

Maria Cristina Buccellati, granddaughter of the company’s founder, talks to Ximena Daneri about Buccellati’s heritage and boutique on Via Montenapoleone

Buccellati, Via Montenapoleone 23, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2154, buccellati.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 110

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MILANO | Piazza San Babila 3 | Tel. +39 02 760.003.66 10 STORES IN THE CITY

MADE IN

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ITALY’S NEW WOMAN On the catwalks in Milan, the trademark glamour of Italian labels has been replaced with bold, individual style, explains Beth Druce

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

C

hanges in fashion are to be expected.

Sometimes it is subtle and hard to pinpoint, such as the slow exit of the wedge heel or the quiet passing of skinny jeans, and at other times the change is fast and relentless – and this is exactly what we’ve seen at Gucci over the past two seasons.

With the arrival of Alessandro Michele, the creative director with a bold new vision for the brand, the smooth sensuality and high-octane glamour of the Gucci woman has been replaced with a kooky, colourful and cartoonish portrait of a lady. Today, Gucci stands for printed 132 / 148

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silks, coloured lace, crocheted skirts and capes, pussy-bows, multicoloured lurex and transparent chiffon in neon colours. Michele is also using an endearing technique that results in trompe l’oeil buttons, belts and bows being added to garments, which are adorned with beads and sequins in a colourful and playful way. ‘It’s really about that kind of contradiction between the past and the future,’ Michele told the New York Times, which goes some way to explain how an essentially discordant collection of looks has succeeded in conveying one of the strongest messages of the season.

Left: Prada spring/summer 2016

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PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

Intrinsic to the current collection’s appeal is its ‘geek chic’ styling. The formula favours glittery oversized glasses, crocheted gloves, corsages and short-strap handbags that hang from the wrist. There are, however, snatches of old-school Gucci, as seen in the strategic use of the house’s signature red and green stripes to define a waist or a hemline, and the interlocking gold GG motif, although this is a little less shiny and a bit more distressed than in previous years.

For Sarah Mower, chief critic at Vogue Runway and author of the book Gucci by Gucci, the shift in focus has relevance beyond the fashion house’s design credentials. ‘The speed at which Gucci has been overhauled and refreshed since Alessandro Michele has been appointed has been astonishing,’ Mower explains. ‘I think he’s a leader in the new, warm, human and eclectic feeling which fashion is craving.’

Michele has reinvented Gucci in line with the feeling of the times, and the nod to eccentricity that has been freshly employed by the label is a common thread on Milan’s

Previous page (clockwise from top): Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele; two looks from the brand’s spring/summer 2016 collection

catwalks. Designer Miuccia Prada has long been known for her quirky designs, and where others are making their first forays into the arena of out-there style, Prada embraces the aesthetic like a seasoned professional. At Prada this season, boxy 1960s-style suit jackets are decorated with silver stripes, tweeds and tartans, and layered with pastel-hued gauze.

There are geometric knits in solid blocks of dense colour, hems that hover between the knee and the calf and an impressive selection of accessories including leather bowling bags and oversized bauble earrings, while the most remarkable items are net-like veils draped around the neck.

Marni is a brand where the meaning is as much in the accessories as in the clothing, and quirky details are all part of the label’s DNA. This season, a palette of bold primaries with accents of dusky pink and jade green provide the wallpaper for a collection that fuses loose shapes and geometric lines with contrasting print and colour. Giant leather ‘sack’ handbags, dangly Perspex earrings and flat, squaretoed thick-strap sandals once again confirm Consuelo Castiglioni, the label’s designer, as an architect of left-field fashion design.

Above (all): Marni spring/summer 2016

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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loriblu.com SHOWROOM - MILANO Corso Vittorio Emanuele 22 Tel. +39 02 76341350 MILANO Via Manzoni 19 T. +39 02 72022800

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With high-profile changes at Gucci and bold touches from labels such as Marni, Italian fashion has been brought into sharp focus and there’s a particular air of excitement around its new experimental leanings. What is apparent is that the shift in design focus being witnessed in Milan has a growing and infectious appeal and, rather than being the exception, dressing with a quirky eccentricity will increasingly become the norm.

The polished, sexy ideal of the Italian woman may not have been put to bed for good, but she is no longer the only contender on the catwalks. A new concept of woman has emerged, which is bolder and more playful than before, and leading labels including Gucci, Prada and Marni have succesfully captured and embraced her spirit Above (both): Gucci spring/summer 2016

PHOTOS: Š GORUNWAY.COM

A new concept of woman has emerged, bolder and more playful than before

elisabettafranchi.com

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

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BEST FOOT FORWARD The modern man wants more from his footwear, and Italy’s leading brands are stepping up, says Hannah Lewis

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n the spring/summer menswear catwalks experimental shoes were very much in evidence. Dolce & Gabbana’s casual espadrilles came with the same bold, medieval-style prints that adorned trousers and sweatshirts. Gucci decorated feet with foral prints, bold colours and tactile velvets, and studded ankles with spikes. Bottega Veneta started an unexpected trend for socks with sandals, and Emporio Armani’s dress shoes were printed with paisley on top of chunky cut-out soles.

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Wardrobes are becoming less formal, and neckties and the like are no longer everyday necessities. This means that there is scope for shoes to be more central than ever when men are deciding what to wear. While ready-to-wear brands are successfully harnessing the power of the shoe – footwear may be the first item that a customer buys from a label they haven’t explored before – it’s the specialist firms that people return to time and again.

Men are notoriously reticent when it comes to experimentation in fashion, and when they Left: Dolce & Gabbana Tremiti espadrilles, spring/summer 2016

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

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do embrace something a bit different, they turn to a tried and tested name: where better to buy your statement shoes than from a label that’s been furnishing you with luxurious staple items for years? Alberto Guardiani, for example, is one of Italy’s foremost footwear specialists and it is increasingly catering to the daring male dresser, with options such as suede camouflage and zebra-print pony skin car shoes, and cobalt-blue woven flatforms.

These styles may not be for everyone, but the need for newness in the world of men’s shoes goes further than a fleeting catwalk trend – every man should own at least one pair of standout shoes. For those who prefer their style to err towards the classic, bespoke and madeto-order options are the way forward.

At Fratelli Rossetti, excellence in craftsmanship has always been paramount. For over 60 years the family company has been at the forefront of the shoemaking industry, so it’s no surprise that the team has quickly responded to the desire for individuality in men’s footwear.

For decades the label ‘made in Italy’ has been a byword for excellent quality in the world of shoes Take the tailor-made service, for example.

Available exclusively at the brand’s flagship store on Via Montenapoleone, clients can now have a pair of Fratelli Rossetti’s luxurious shoes made just for them. One of the brand’s master craftsmen is assigned to each client throughout the whole process, from the initial appointment to the delivery of the final product, resulting in a truly bespoke shoe that will fit perfectly and will also feature the owner’s name, handwritten on the internal heel cushion.

Above (from left): Bottega Veneta spring/summer 2016; Alberto Guardiani shoes are handcrafted

This bespoke range comprises around 20 models and is available in Fratelli Rossetti’s most luxurious range of materials – from rare calfskin to iguana and crocodile hides – as well as in numerous colour options. The brand has also recently launched a made-to-order service, through which customers can create their own take on one of the brand’s classic styles, including its Brera loafer, which was named after one of Milan’s most artistic districts. The service has expanded to include the option of Fratelli Rossetti’s Toledo leather, which is handpainted using an artisanal technique, making each pair of shoes unique as well as luxurious.

Above (clockwise from top): Alberto Guardiani men’s shoes; Gucci, all spring/summer 2016; Fratelli Rossetti leather hides for the brand’s bespoke range

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

PHOTO: MAGNUM PHOTOS/FERDINANDO SCIANNA

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Fratelli Rossetti is not the only brand that has recognised a shift in men’s shoe desires.

At Salvatore Ferragamo, the Driver shoe has always been a top seller, and so when the label launched its made-to-order service it was clear that this style should be offered to clients. Available at selected flagship stores worldwide, the service allows men to create their own version of the Driver shoe. More than 100 variations are offered for the upper body, sole and hardware, and the list of colours and materials is very impressive. The service is rounded off with an extra personal touch: a lettering process to let you truly make your mark on the shoes.

Heritage brands these may be, but Fratelli Rossetti and Salvatore Ferragamo show that they have their sights set firmly on the future; it’s this ability to work modern approaches and technologies into classic methods that makes

Above: Fratelli Rossetti owners Luca, Diego and Dario Rossetti

them so successful. The best men’s shoes are contemporary and unique, but crafted by experts using knowledge that’s been passed down for generations. Crucially, these new styles and services recognise a growing trend in men’s footwear, as fashion-conscious clients take more risks and look to express their individual style through what they wear on their feet. And what better way to do this than with a shoe that you’ve had a hand in designing?

No longer satisfied with the small range of options which was once available to them, stylish men increasingly want more from their footwear. Shoes should never be afterthoughts, as these are the only accessories we can’t leave the house without. For decades the label ‘made in Italy’ has been a byword for excellent quality in the world of shoes, so if you’re going to do something, do it properly: make it your own, and make it Italian

PHOTO: © MAGNUM PHOTOS/FERDINANDO SCIANNA

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Above (from top): Salvatore Ferragamo made-to-order men’s Driver shoes; Fratelli Rossetti shoe components

DESIGN Talented designer Patricia Urquiola is making waves in the world of

QUEEN

PHOTO: GEORGE APOSTOLIDIS

interior design. She talks inspiration and innovation with Josh Sims

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Urquiola. ‘She uses curves where we, well, we might tend to be more square.’

Curvaceous, tactile, playful: these are all adjectives which have been applied to Urquiola’s work for a wide range of clients, from Hermès and Salvatore Ferragamo to Driade, Moroso, BMW, Ruinart, Panasonic, Mandarin Oriental and Flos. These could be considered feminine qualities in what Urquiola describes as the ‘industrial world’ of design.

‘There are a lot of men, a lot of managers making decisions and feeling that perhaps they need a man to front a project to give it

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PHOTO: ALESSANDRO PADERNI EYE STUDIO

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xplore any interior design or furniture showroom in Italy and a roster of industry-leading names will soon present themselves: Boffi, B&B Italia, Cassina, Kartell and Alessi, to mention just a few. Many of them are still independent or family businesses with a reputation for pushing the boundaries of form as well as manufacturing methods. These are household names in some of the world’s most chic homes.

One woman, Patricia Urquiola, is increasingly involved with developing ideas for such interiors brands. Born in Spain, she trained in Italy under and alongside some of the country’s leading designers, including Vico Magistretti, Achille Castiglioni and Piero Lissoni. Urquiola lives and works in Milan; she set up her design studio 15 years ago and is arguably the most important designer of her generation.

When we meet, she runs her hand over the functional but warm surfaces of the kitchen she’s designed for Boffi and points out the design’s modularity, which makes it suitable for smaller spaces. ‘Look at this!’ she says, suddenly grabbing hold of the chopping boardstyle wooden counter-top, which slides out to become a breakfast table.

This is the first Boffi kitchen to be designed by a woman. ‘We’re a very masculine company with a very masculine product but we knew we wanted a more feminine element in the approach to materials and colours, and to put the kitchen together without the usual traditional cabinets,’ explains Roberto Gavazzi, the CEO of Boffi, of its decision to hire

‘It’s about experiences and bringing them together in a product’ – Patricia Urquiola credibility,’ Urquiola suggests, going on to say that women’s talents should be given space to blossom. ‘I think society understands that, as it’s becoming more and more feminine in some ways, and more democratic.’

Previous page: Mandarin Oriental Barcelona restaurant designed

by Patricia Urquiola

PHOTO: GEORGE APOSTOLIDIS

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The success of Urquiola’s designs is perhaps a result of her readiness, where possible, to live with her prototypes while refining them (her home is above her office).

She speaks of the need for each design to appeal to a sense of familiarity, an idea from her friend, the chef Ferran Adrià. Her 2006 Smock office chair, for example, incorporates the design of a smock worn by her first baby.

Her Night & Day sofa for Molteni & C, another Italian company, acknowledges how we use sofas, not as showcase pieces but as island hubs on which to rest, work and play. Hers is a basic but clever structure, onto which cushions can be configured as well as armrests, baskets, storage units and occasional tables.

‘Functionality is important of course, but it isn’t enough. For me it’s about experiences and bringing them together in a product. It’s about taking a critical attitude and connecting with the relevant culture and about your sense of how society is evolving. You don’t need to know everything there is to know about chairs to design a chair.’

Previous page (from left): Salinas kitchen for Boffi; Patricia Urquiola

Above (from top): premier suite living room for Mandarin Oriental Barcelona; Pavo Real armchair for Driade

O L I V I A PA L E R M O N e w Yo r k , D e c e m b e r 2 0 15 MA X ANDCO.COM

M I L A N O C o r s o V i t t o r i o Em a n u e l e

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‘To move forward you have to get out of your comfort zone’

PHOTOS: (TOP) MICHELE BRANCA/PIERO FASANOTTO

Urquiola is equally interested in working with companies to find new ways of making, whether that be a craft technique or an industrial process. Another sofa, for instance – Bend, designed for B&B Italia – uses a clever patchwork form for the covering and saw the development of a pioneering multi-perforated foam inner which gives the same comfort as standard foam but is lighter and uses less material. Husk, a chair also for B&B Italia, has a cushioning system that can be fully removed for washing, while each piece of the design is removable and replaceable, should a leg get damaged, for example.

‘I’m just curious,’ she says of her predilection to keep pushing at things until they’re just right. ‘When I’m working on one thing, that’s all I’m doing, that’s all I’m thinking about. And I love to break a prejudice, including my own. Like artists, to move forward you have to get out of your comfort zone.’

Above (from top): Flos Tatou S1 pendant lamp and Chasen lamp for Flos; Night & Day sofa for Molteni & C

Orologeria Luigi Verga

Luigi Verga Orologi & C.

Orologeria Luigi Verga

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CAFÉ SOCIETY From indulgent breakfast menus to extensive sandwich ranges and worldclass coffee, Milan’s caffès have much to offer, as Kirsty Andrews discovers

Milan’s cafès are, quite rightly, ranked among the best in the world, and serve much more to their customers than excellent cofee. This drink, which arrived in Italy in the 17th century, has become part of the country’s culture.

The frst cofee of the day is likely to be a speedy espresso which is taken along with a pastry. However, cofee shops are a cornerstone of Milanese society and throughout the day you will fnd local people lingering over a steaming brew, taking the time to relax, to catch up with friends or to indulge in a good book.

The options for enjoying fresh, tasty food while sipping are rich and varied. With indulgent sweet and savoury breakfast items and dishes available in the morning, and mouth-watering sandwiches and pasta dishes on the menu for lunch, there is never a wrong time of day to sit down and take in this aspect of Milanese life. globalblue.com

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PHOTO: COURTESY FONDAZIONE PRADA/ATTILIO MARANZANO

BAR LUCE Located in the Fondazione Prada art and culture complex, Bar Luce was designed by film director Wes Anderson. The striking interior design includes original architectural and decorative details such as a glass roof in the style of that of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. These traditional elements are creatively juxtaposed with colour-block seating and Formica tables.

Anderson’s interior design is reminiscent of Italian popular culture and aesthetics from the 1950s and 1960s, echoing his earlier artistic work. Bar Luce, which offers an extensive sandwich menu, is not to be missed.

Bar Luce, Largo Isarco 2, 20139 Milan, +39 02 5666 2611, fondazioneprada.org

PHOTO: Š DELFINO SISTO LEGNANI

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PA S T IC C E R I A M A RC H E S I Founded in 1824 in the Corso Magenta neighbourhood, Marchesi is one of the oldest and finest pastry shops in Milan and has occupied the same location on Via Santa Maria alla Porta for almost 200 years. A new branch on Via Montenapoleone opened in September 2015, offering a larger, centrally located cafĂŠ, an expanded selection of the beautifully crafted pastries and chocolates that Pasticceria Marchesi is famed for, and new delicacies for the new venue. Bonbons and sugar-coated candies are beautifully displayed in glass cabinets on cherrywood counters typical of traditional Milanese interiors, in a nod to the existing historic location. globalblue.com

Pasticceria Marchesi, Via Montenapoleone 9, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8238, pasticceriamarchesi.it

VIA SANT’ANDREA 10/A, 20121 MILANO

STUARTWEITZMAN.COM

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10 COR SO COMO C A F È

This courtyard café is part of Carla Sozzani’s multifunctional arts complex 10 Corso Como.

10 Corso Como Café is hidden in a quiet courtyard, surrounded by lush greenery, and is a perfect place to relax and refuel during a day of shopping. It offers international and Italian cuisine, with seasonal products to suit all tastes served by friendly, attentive staff. Be sure to enjoy an espresso accompanied by beautifully decorated cookies to finish off your lunch.

10 Corso Como Café, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2901 3581, 10corsocomo.com globalblue.com

Bambini vestiti da bambini ilgufo.it

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TAG L IO Small and informal, tucked away in the Navigli neighbourhood, Taglio is a hit with locals for its creative and inspiring menu based around fresh produce. The atmosphere is friendly and relaxed; settle in at one of the small wooden tables to enjoy a charming Italian cafĂŠ experience. Staff are friendly, attentive and informative, and eager to share their knowledge of their food and processes. After enjoying your meal, you can also take away the delectable treats on offer, from preserves to pasta, as the cafĂŠ is a store as well as a place to eat. globalblue.com

Taglio, Via Vigevano 10, 20144 Milan, +39 02 3653 4294, taglio.me

samsonite.com

© Samsonite 2016 MILANO Samsonite Store via San Pietro all’Orto 11 - via Belfore 6 - C.C. Fiordaliso - ROMA House of Samsonite via del Tritone 149 SAMSONITE FACTORY OUTLETS: Cantello (VA) - Corsico (MI) - Vicolungo The Style Outlets (NO) - Serravalle Designer Outlet (AL) Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets (BO) - Fidenza Village (PR) - Valdichiana Outlet Village (AR) - Barberino Designer Outlet (FI) Castel Romano Designer Outlet (RM) - Valmontone Outlet (RM)

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STAY IN STYLE

PHOTO: ENGIN AYDENIZ/SOHO HOUSE ISTANBUL

The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

SOHO HOUSE ISTANBUL Soho House Istanbul has taken over Palazzo Corpi, one of the most historic and beautiful buildings in the Beyoğlu area of the city. The palace was commissioned in 1873, at the request of wealthy Italian shipbuilder Ignazio Corpi, and built using the finest materials, including Carrara marble; renowned artists were invited to depict Greek mythological globalblue.com

scenes. After housing the US embassy, it was acquired by the Soho House Group in 2014 and has been meticulously restored and impeccably designed to create an impressively grand and irresistibly cool venue.

Soho House Istanbul, Evliya Celebi Mahallesi, Mesrutiyet Caddesi 56, Beyoğlu, +90 (0)212 377 7100, sohohouseistanbul.com

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SIX SENSES DUORO VALLEY Set in a renovated 19th-century manor house perched at the top of a hill, the Six Senses Douro Valley provides stunning views of the surrounding Portuguese countryside. It’s an ideal venue for visitors who are interested in wine: this is the oldest demarcated wineproducing region in the world, leading the Alto

Douro area to become a Unesco World Heritage site, and the hotel features its own Wine Library, where guests can sample varieties and enjoy regional tapas before dinner.

Guests of the hotel’s rooms, suites and villas have access to the state-of-the-art spa with its range of treatments, some using grapes.

Six Senses Douro Valley, Quinta de Vale Abraão, 5100-758 Lamego, +351 254 660600, sixsenses.com

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THE LANESBOROUGH Located in a building that dates back to the early 18th century, London’s Lanesborough hotel is welcoming guests once again following extensive renovations. Positioned in Knightsbridge on the fringes of Hyde Park, the building was originally completed in 1719 for Viscount Lanesborough. As a hotel it comprises 93 elegant guestrooms and suites which have been carefully restored and refurbished globalblue.com

including the Royal Suite which, with seven impressive bedrooms, is the largest in London.

Gastronomic highlights are provided by Céleste, the hotel’s fine-dining restaurant, which is presided over by French chef patron Eric Frechon and his protégé Florian Favario.

The Lanesborough, Hyde Park Corner, London SW1X 7TA, +44 (0)20 7259 5599, lanesborough.com

PHOTO: NACASA & PARTNERS INC.

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AMAN TOKYO Spanning the top six floors of the Otemachi Tower, this sleek, modern and ultra-stylish hotel is Aman’s first in Japan. It provides tranquil spaces in this busy city, including an interior garden, swimming pool and a spa with purpose-built yoga and Pilates studios. Heavily inspired by traditional Japanese aesthetics, the hotel’s 84 rooms are impressively spacious and globalblue.com

equipped with a furo (a deep Japanese bath tub), ensuring that all guests have the opportunity to unwind and recharge. While here, take time to browse some of the books on Japanese art and culture in the library.

Aman Tokyo, Otemachi Tower, 1-5-6 Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0004, +81 (0)3 5224 3333, aman.com/resorts/aman-tokyo

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THE GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Milan with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from an historic silverware boutique to the best gelaterias in town. Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/milan.

PHOTO: XIMENA XXXX DANERI

A Glimpse Of Milan

Above: Milan’s iconic Porta Sempione

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Sample some fine pasticcini (Italian pastries) at this historic pasticceria’s new branch.

Pasticceria Marchesi, Via Montenapoleone 9, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8238, pasticceriamarchesi.it

PAGE

122

LFERIN

Pasticceria Marchesi

VIA SO

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FEATURED ON PAGE 86

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V IA B R IS

This leafy café combines food and fashion.

10 Corso Como Café, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 2901 3581, 10corsocomo.com

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PALAZZO DELLA BORSA Piazza Affari

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FEATURED ON PAGE 50

Place Of Interest

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120

VI

Discover the latest watches from premium brands such as Audemars Piguet.

Pisa Orologeria, Via Pietro Verri 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 762081, pisaorologeria.com

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Pisa Orologeria

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Stock up on fabulous footwear from this well-known shoemaker.

Fratelli Rossetti, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1650, fratellirossetti.com

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102 | G U I D E

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Featured In This Issue

Gelateria

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S H O P | 103

106 S H O P | 105

PIAZZA SAN BABILA AREA Piazza San Babila, Corso Matteotti, Via Bigli, Corso Venezia & Corso Europa RA

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Featured In This Issue

108 | G U I D E

MONTENAPOLEONE AREA V

Via Sant’Andrea, Via Pietro Verri & Piazza Meda, Via Gesù, Via Borgospesso & Via Santo Spirito VI

NI

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VERSACE HOME ●

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MODICA MILANO ● GREYMER ● MARC CAIN ●

● MONTEGRAPPA ● FABBRICATORE ● SCHREIBER ● WALTER SHOES ● INBORGOSPESSO 18 ● FILIPPO GABRIELE ● GALLUCCI

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RG

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STELLA MCCARTNEY ●

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● GALLERIA SILVA LOUIS MICHAIL ● TOP TIME MUSA ● MONTENAPOLEONE FINE JEWELRY ● BORGOSPESSO 6 ● SOLO BLU

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CAIATI FINE ARTS ● BARBA NAPOLI ● ORIENTAL ART RENZO FRESCHI ● ROSALBA ● DOUCAL'S ● KITON ● SILVANO LATTANZI ● LUCIANO BARBERA ● BARRETT ● TINCATI ● SÙ DORIANI CASHMERE ● GE ZILLI ● IA

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

Featured In This Issue

Global Blue Lounge

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STEFANO RICCI ● MIMÌ ● RUBINACCI ● GOYARD ● ACQUA DI PARMA ●

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Place Of Interest

Metro

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IT’S TIME TO OPEN.

Pisa Orologeria.

New Flagship Store in Via Verri, Milan.

GENÈVE

— For more information please visit www.pisaorologeria.com —

110 | G U I D E

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A SE TO NA

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GLOBAL BLUE LOUNGE Global Blue’s new Lounge offers Tax Free Shopping services in a relaxed environment.

Pop in to see us and get your refund quickly and easily, paid in cash or to your card, while enjoying our comfortable lounge. As we arrange your refund more quickly than ever before, enjoy some refreshments or make use of our Wi-Fi service. Be sure to talk to Global Blue’s attentive, professional members of staff about our many services, including concierge services and shopping consultancy which are designed to make your stay as smooth as possible.

Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Global Blue Lounge, Via Santo Spirito 5, 20121 Milan, globalblue.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 108

Metro

Café

VIA MONTENAPOLEONE, 19 20121 MILANO TEL: +39 02 76003697 MONDAY- SUNDAY 10 AM - 7 PM SHOP AT TESTONI.COM

112 | G U I D E

SPIGA & VIA MANZONI AREA Via della Spiga

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L T & ● S R IM N B CO NP ● M O LCE ● SA SA & A V IA FF Y ● DO VI A N ● X T A ● A S VE ● LS FF D’ TM TI B E E N EI L L E O ● TO O R A SÙ G M AN ● SP AD ● 5 R GE D D I RS A ● PR P.4 L L E A R M I L FAY VI A R KO R U N VI U H 3 ● I● A OP EL M RIC 18 8 B IN BI H E K A L ● C L GL L C L H U A C N O A I ● I I 4 P A D M M SQU EY P A P.4 O FR IU ● ● LT M ER M IN PA A UT CHA T TI VO ● VI A ●● RV E RI A E E P G G R SC SC SPI LS ● ● ON MO E H ● O L N A W C Ò ● A LL JE UR ER ● GI MAN NA RE ● DE IS B L LI ● BA ND A IC Y NC EL I ER AB VI S TO R M O CIN DIN O ● T ’A ● G N ● R G BO SA CU R A ICE ER ● E& A M VI LC LO H E B EIG O E ● LO EL G RCO T G S H N O ● DO CO N A U R ● R ● A U M KU C A IG A PIG TO ● BR S N RI P 4 S L L A IM E N E IA ●● 14 E O M P.4 H P.1 D C LC O IA N R A FA C S T VI BA SE

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Global Blue Retailer

Piazza San Carlo

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

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Featured In This Issue

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114 | G U I D E

SHOP DIARY

A ROUND-UP OF THIS SEASON’S MUST-DOS

APR

SALONE INTERNAZIONALE DEL MOBILE

As the world’s largest exhibition of design and furniture, the Salone Internazionale del Mobile attracts a prestigious international crowd. Although the official venue is located a little way outside of the city, visitors to Milan can also enjoy plenty of centrally located exhibitions and events. Visit: salonemilano.it CORTILI APERTI

This annual event offers visitors the chance to glimpse the interiors of some of the city’s most beautiful private homes and buildings. For one weekend, a select number of residences, which have previously included Palazzo Greppi and Casa Fontana Silvestri, open their courtyards to the public.

Visit: cortiliaperti.it

JUN

LA NOTTE BIANCA

For one night a year, Milan is the city that doesn’t sleep, as bars, shops, restaurants and cinemas extend their opening hours to provide all-night entertainment.

Visit: comune.milano.it

BERNASCONI MILANO 1872 Bernasconi Milano 1872 has sold exquisite silverware for over 140 years and was once a supplier to the royal household of Savoy. As well as silverware, the elegant boutique on Via Manzoni has a selection of premium handcrafted items made by the region’s most skilled artisans out of natural materials such as leather, marble, stone and mother of pearl.

Bernasconi Milano 1872, Via Alessandro Manzoni 44, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8646 0923, bernasconi1872.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 116

MARCO BICEGO Marco Bicego inherited his eponymous jewellery brand from his father, who set up the business in the 1950s. The designer is inspired by his Venetian roots; every piece is made by hand at the company’s headquarters in the Veneto region. Marco Bicego jewellery is admired for its artisanal hand engraving, hand-twisted coil designs and the multicoloured gemstones which are a staple of Bicego’s work.

Marco Bicego, Via della Spiga 5, 20122 Milan, +39 02 9122 0010, marcobicego.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 112

PHOTO: (TOP) GIUSEPPE MARESCA

MAY

116 | G U I D E

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Global Blue Retailer

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Metro

EC

RICK OWENS MILAN VIA MONTE DI PIETA’ 13 20121 MILAN TEL + 39 02 45386030 WWW.RICKOWENS.EU

STORE@RICKOWENSMILAN.COM OPEN MONDAY TO SATURDAY FROM 10:30 A.M. TO 7:30 P.M. CLOSED ON SUNDAY

118 | G U I D E

DANTE & MAGENTA AREA Corso Magenta

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Featured In This Issue

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Global Blue Retailer

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CO RS O M AG EN TA

PERLITA ● CASA DEL BIANCO ● MARIONNAUD ● BOTTA GIOIELLI ● BOGGI ● FLAMANT ● MATIAS OUTLET ● PERFUME BY CALÈ ● DASSI ● LA PICCOLA GIOIELLERIA ● M.C.M. SANTA MARIA NOVELLA ● ERA L'ORA ●

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Metro

Porsche Design

CHRONOTIMER SERIES 1 DEEP BLUE – Polished titanium chronograph with deep blue accents. A fusion of elegance and sportiness. Swiss Made.

E V E R Y T H I N G T H AT D R I V E S M E N Welcome to the world of Porsche Design. A world that stays eternally young, fresh, and cool by passionately driving for innovation. A world where new quality materials, technologies, and fnest functional elegance blend into a truly exclusive, iconic contemporary design. Some call it luxury? We call it essentials for a challenging future. www.porsche-design.com Porsche Design Milano | Via della Spiga 42

120 | G U I D E

CORSO COMO, GAE AULENTI & BRERA AREA Piazza Gae Aulenti, Corso Como & Corso Garibaldi STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI GARIBALDI FS

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MAISO N MARG IELA ● GO COSTU ME NATIO NAL ● HU ● O O RO Z ● LO EN VI LOUBO UTIN ● VI GE NC ● E MOSCH INO ● VI RIA LE V. ● S H NNE A D ID LU DS WE OM AS ● IG Q ST P IN K IV ME UA O WO ER S ● A S RE N AU G N VI GA OD D2 HT Y DRO ● AC DOG A RL ● OD ● HSL MAN EC GANO RI ● ● 10 CO U -B O ST RS AT ● ● OF B O U L O COMO OR ● M A E D E N E IG E P.52 I S S S IM G -S H O REB ● BOU OCK E CC L ● ● M A E D E N E IG E H I ANTE NAELE ● SS P ● AV E IM O R E B E ROBE M R IM A CC H I R R T O O M O N I' ● ● ER A Y TELE ● R IE ● L 55

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SELECTED SHOPS IN STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI: Accessorize Calzedonia Eurobijoux Foot Locker Gemelli Gioielli I ER La Feltrinelli ITO SP T A Tezenis VI

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WAIT AND SEE Wait and See’s location within a former convent is the perfect complement to its quirky style. The store was set up by the well-travelled Uberta Zambeletti, who ensures that there’s always a fashion-forward edit of items.

Wait and See, Via Santa Marta 14, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7208 0195, waitandsee.it

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

Featured In This Issue

Shopping Centre/Mall

Train Station

Milano

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LOCAL TIP

Showcasing cutting-edge design, art, architecture, fashion and film, the XXI Triennale International Exhibition is one of the most important events in Milan’s calendar. Visit the Triennale Design Museum and look out for prestigious exhibitions taking place across the city.

LABORATORIO PARAVICINI Laboratorio Paravicini was founded in the 1990s to offer an alternative to massproduced ceramics and its aim is to offer pieces which are thoughtfully designed and carefully crafted. Each piece is made on site in Laboratorio Paravicini’s small workshop, where beautiful designs from the traditional to the strikingly avant-garde are created. The workshop also happily accommodates bespoke requests from those who are in search of something personalised.

Laboratorio Paravicini, Via Nerino 8, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7202 1006, paravicini.it

TOP 3... GELATERIAS Il Massimo del Gelato

A must-visit for chocolate lovers, Il Massimo del Gelato offers 10 different chocolate flavours, some enriched with coffee, cinnamon, pepper or even flakes of real gold.

Il Massimo del Gelato, Via Lodovico Castelvetro 18, 20154 Milan, +39 02 349 4943, ilmassimodelgelato.it Gelato Giusto

Gelato Giusto uses only the best-quality ingredients for each of its flavours. Visit this compact gelateria just off Corso Buenos Aires to sample the perfectly made seasonal flavours.

Gelato Giusto, Via San Gregorio 17, 20124 Milan, +39 02 2951 0284, gelatogiusto.it Cioccolati Italiani

This gelateria occupies a prime position close to the Duomo. Ice cream lovers flock here for the cones, which are filled with a choice of white, milk or dark chocolate gelato.

Cioccolati Italiani, Via San Raffaele 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8909 3820, cioccolatitaliani.it FEATURED ON PAGE 103

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BRACCIALINI ● ● CLARKS PANDORA ● ● RITA BOUTIQUE DESIGUAL ● ● LIU JO VI ELENA MIRO ● AG ● DIECIDECIMI STROILI ORO ● IO VA ● FURLA GEOX ● NN ● DANIEL & MAYER IO SWAROVSKI ● M BO ● KOCCA NI ● ANTONY MORATO L’OCCITANE ● PUMA ● ● AERONAUTICA MILITARE CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● O ● CARRERA JEANS OST DA M E CA ● NIKE MILANO LV IS V IA A ● M COLLECTIVE VERGELIO ● Piazza SISTE’S ● ● PIQUADRO GAMESTOP ● Santa STRADIVARIUS ● ● GUESS KIDS Francesca Romana ● GUESS FBL● VI AL ER FOSSIL ● EG VI BLUKIDS ● IN AL AG ER SOLARIS ● IO ● JDC URBAN STORE EG VA I NN NA KIKO ● A GI ● DOCKSTEPS PEPE JEANS ● OV AN STEFANEL ● ● F.LLI SOLENNE GIOIELLI NA

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ZANI VIAGGI Enhance your trip to Milan with Zani Viaggi, the city tour specialist. Zani Viaggi’s coach trips take in the best of Milan’s culture, art and fashion, and shopping tours to some of Italy’s finest outlets are also available. Services run from the city centre to shopping villages which showcase designer brands at discount prices.

Destinations include Serravalle Designer Outlet, the second largest outlet in Europe, Fidenza Village with its impressive selection of boutiques, and Vicolungo the Style Outlet. Zani Viaggi can also take you across

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the border to Switzerland, to the stores at FoxTown. Wherever you go, Zani Viaggi will ensure you travel in style.

Zani Viaggi, Milan Visitor Center, Largo Cairoli/Via Cusani, 20121 Milan, +39 02 867131, zaniviaggi.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 118

Metro

MILANO, Piazza Duomo 19 - contacts: +39 02 87 40 10 - info@cielo.it

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DAY TRIP FIDENZA VILLAGE With over 90 top brands, all with year-round discounts of up to 70%, as well as restaurants and cafes, Fidenza Village is a stylish day out.

Fidenza Village, Via San Michele Campagna, 43036 Fidenza, +39 0524 33551, fidenzavillage.com

MY PERFECT DAY

MILANO CENTRALE STATION E35

A1

Fidenza Village

HOW TO GET THERE

By Car Exit the A1 motorway at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore.

Pass the tollbooth and Fidenza Village is 100 metres to your left.

By Shopping Express The Shopping Express® luxury coach service runs from central Milan to Fidenza Village daily.

By Train From Milan: Fidenza station is on the direct line into Milano Centrale with frequent services and a journey time of approximately one hour 15 minutes. Upon arrival, take the shuttle bus to Fidenza Village; tickets can be purchased on board.

DON’T MISS …

Shopping & Food experience:

Shopping & Art experience:

This exclusive package includes: A guided tour to discover the most prestigious local products, such as Parmiggiano Reggiano cheese Return tickets from central Milan to Fidenza Village by Shopping Express® A VIP card providing an additional 10% saving across the village

This exclusive package includes: Entrance to the Galleria Nazionale di Parma with its collection of Italian Renaissance masterpieces Return tickets from central Milan to Fidenza Village by Shopping Express® A VIP card providing an additional 10% saving across the village

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Outlet Village

Train Station

OPENING TIMES Monday-Sunday: 10am-8pm

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10am The perfect way to start your shopping day is with an Illy espresso. This is the quintessential coffee preparation – rich, aromatic and velvety.

12pm Visit the Missoni boutique to discover colourful, fine knits that are a versatile summer staple.

2pm For a taste of typical Italian cuisine, head to Hosteria delle Terre Verdiane where you will discover food that is rich in history and taste and find the perfect treat to take home with you.

4pm End your day admiring the innovative collections at Massimo Rebecchi. This luxurious label is known for combining sleek Italian tailoring with wearable comfort.

H A P P Y S PO R T

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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

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Spend over €154.94 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

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Malpensa Airport: Terminal 1, Departures check-in, second floor Terminal 1, Area B Extra Schengen, frst floor Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Linate Airport: Forexchange Maccorp, Departures Downtown Milan: La Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer service desk), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan Downtown Como: Viaggi Ronchi, Lungo Lario Trieste 10 140 / 153

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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 60: Italy’s New Woman

Новый образ модной Италии

Перемены в моде всегда ожидаемы. Они могут быть плавными и незаметными, как, например, постепенный уход танкетки или джинсов-скинни. Но иногда перемены стремительны и безапелляционны, и именно это можно наблюдать в коллекциях Gucci на протяжении двух последних сезонов. Заняв пост креативного директора, Алессандро Микеле последовательно воплощает новое видение стиля. Чувственный образ женщины Gucci сменился необычным и ярким портретом леди. Теперь этот модный дом отдает предпочтение шелку с принтами, цветным кружевам, вязаным юбкам и накидкам, галстуку-бабочке, разноцветному люрексу и прозрачному шифону неоновых цветов. Кроме того, в его обновленном арсенале появились такие очаровательные приемы, как использование пуговиц, ремней и бантов с оптическим обманом. Все это добавляет одежде, украшенной бисером и блестками, цветовой насыщенности и жизнерадостности. «Все дело в этом контрасте между прошлым и будущим», – уточняет Микеле в интервью New York Times. Это во многом объясняет, как удалось коллекции, полной противоречий, выразить одну из важнейших идей этого сезона. Существенный вклад в настроение новой коллекции сделала стилизация под «моду гиков». Это подразумевает блестящие крупные очки, вязаные перчатки, корсажи и сумки с короткой ручной для ношения на запястье. Сохранились и следы прежнего образа Gucci: например, в стратегическом globalblue.com

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Бет Дрюс рассказывает о ярком, индивидуальном стиле, который сменил на подиумах Милана привычный блеск итальянский брендов

использовании фирменных красных и зеленых полос для обозначения талии или кромки, узора из пересекающихся золотых букв GG. Теперь эти элементы выглядят более спокойно и менее вызывающе, чем в прошлые годы. По мнению Сары Моуэр, главного модного критика Vogue Runway и автора книги Gucci by Gucci, эта перемена имеет значение и за пределами этого модного дома: «Скорость, с которой Gucci преобразился и обновился с момента назначения Алессандро Микеле, просто невероятна, – делится Моуэр. – Я считаю его лидером нового теплого, человеческого и эклектичного направления, к которому стремится современная мода». Микеле переосмыслил Gucci в духе нашего времени. Эксцентричность, недавно

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появившаяся в коллекциях этого бренда, отсылает к общей тенденции, которая стала очевидной на миланских подиумах. Но если многие делают только первые шаги в новом направлении, то дизайнер Миучча Прада уже работает с этой эстетикой как истинный профессионал. Для нее неожиданные и необычные модели – привычное поле для творчества. В коллекцию Prada этого сезона вошли пиджаки свободного кроя в стиле 1960-х: они украшены серебряными полосами и вставками из твида и клетчатой шерсти, и сочетаются с воздушной тканью пастельных оттенков. Также уважаемый бренд представил геометричные вязаные однотонные вещи насыщенных цветов, юбки с асимметричным подолом ниже колена и серию аксессуаров, в том числе – кожаные сумки округлой формы и крупные серьги. В числе самых примечательных предметов коллекции – сетчатая вуаль, прикрывающая шею. globalblue.com

Marni в равной степени наделяет смыслом и аксессуары, и одежду, и необычные детали определяют идентичность этого бренда. В этом сезоне палитру составили яркие цвета с акцентом на темно-розовом и насыщенно-зеленом. Для коллекции в целом характерны свободные формы и геометричные линии с контрастными принтами и цветами. Большие кожаные сумки-мешки, серьги из оргстекла и плоские сандалии с квадратными носами – все это еще раз подтверждает, что дизайнер бренда Консуэло Кастильони остается одним из создателей причудливой моды. Судя по значительным переменам в стиле Gucci и ярким идеям таких брендов, как Marni, в итальянскую моду пришла особая острота, и эти эксперименты породили особую атмосферу предвкушения. Очевидно, что эта перемена в модном дизайне, которую можно наблюдать в Милане, заразительна. Прямо на наших

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68: Best Foot Forward

Уверенный шаг вперед Запросы современных мужчин растут, а вместе с ними растет и мастерство обувающих их брендов, - рассказывает Ханна Льюис На весенних показах мужской одежды было невозможно не заметить намечающийся тренд: артистичную обувь.

Dolce & Gabbana украсил эспадрильи яркими принтами в средневековом стиле – точно такими же, как на брюках и

свитшотах. На яркой цветной обуви Gucci появились цветочные принты, вельветовые вставки и шипы. Бренд Bottega Veneta положил начало неожиданному тренду на сочетание сандалий с носками. А задняя часть классических туфель от Emporio Armani подчеркнута узором пейсли. Одназначно, мужчины одеваются все менее формально, а галстуки и подобные аксессуары, больше не являются обязательным дресс-кодом. Именно поэтому обувь чаще, чем когда-либо прежде, оказывается в центре мужского гардероба. Порой покупатели начинают свое знакомство с новой маркой именно с покупки обуви, и бренды успешно пользуются этим. Однако повторно люди обращаются к тем компаниям, чьему опыту доверяют. Всем известно, что мужчины не склонны к экспериментам в моде. Поэтому, если уж дело доходит до чего-то нового, они предпочитают уже проверенные временем марки. Действительно, где еще покупать ботинки, как не у бренда, который годами поставлял вещи в ваш гардероб? Например, Alberto Guardiani – один

PHOTO: © MAGNUM PHOTOS/FERDINANDO SCIANNA

глаза эксцентричность из исключения превращается в норму. И пусть классический итальянский стиль с его томной сексуальностью попрежнему актуален. Но теперь он не единственный претендент на подиумное шоу. Появился новый образ женщины – более яркий и изобретательный, чем прежде. И Gucci, Prada и Marni уже осмыслили и воплотили в коллекциях ее неповторимый характер.

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из главных итальянских обувщиков, в его ассортименте множество находок для храброго дэнди. В их числе – удобные туфли из замши и кожи камуфляжной расцветки и кобальтовые тканные ботинки с плоской подошвой. Конечно, эти модели подойдут далеко не каждому. Однако эта потребность в новом подходе к мужской обуви – не просто скоротечный подиумный тренд. Каждый мужчина непременно должен иметь в своем арсенале по меньшей мере одну необычную пару. Если вы склоняетесь в пользу классики, то стоит обратить внимание на обувь, выполненную по мерке или полностью на заказ. Семейная компания Fratelli Rossetti уже более 60 лет остается в бизнесе, благодаря особому вниманию к деталям. Неудивительно, что марка мгновенно отреагировала на спрос на обвувь, в которой была бы видна индивидуальность ее владельца. Услуга создания обуви по индивидуальному заказу – наиболее яркий тому пример. Только во флагманском globalblue.com

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

магазине бренда на Via Montenapoleone клиенты могут заказать обувь Fratelli Rossetti, созданную в единственном экземпляре. На протяжении всего процесса: от первой встречи до конечного результата, каждого покупателя сопровождает один из мастеров компании. Плодом этого сотрудничества становятся туфли, с личной монограммой и идеальной посадкой. Эта серия состоит из 20 моделей, которые можно пошить в разных цветах и из самых дорогих материалов Fratelli Rossetti – от редкой телячьей кожи до игуаны и крокодила. Кроме того, недавно компания представила услугу полностью заказной обуви. Это значит, что покупатели могут выразить собственное видение одного из классических силуэтов бренда: например, лоаферы Brera, названные так в честь одного из самых артистичных районов Милана. Также в рамках этого сервиса доступна кожа Toledo, которая окрашивается вручную с помощью специальной художественной техники, и это делает каждую пару обуви

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по-настоящему неповторимой. Другие бренды также реагируют на новый обувной спрос мужчин. В коллекциях Salvatore Ferragamo модель Driver давний лидер продаж, и поэтому, когда бренд запускал сервис индивидуального заказа, было очевидно: эта модель должна стать основной. Новая услуга доступна во флагманских магазинах компании по всему миру, где мужчины могут придумать собственную версию Driver. Всего предлагается более 100 вариаций для подошвы и других элементов. Завершает парад возможностей персональный подход: с помощью тиснения можно подчеркнуть, что эта пара принадлежит именно вам. Несмотря на преданность своему наследию, Fratelli Rossetti и Salvatore Ferragamo демонстрируют устойчивый интерес к будущему. Эта способность применять современные подходы и технологии к классическим методам составляет основу их успеха. Лучшая мужская обувь современна и неповторима, но она создана экспертами на основании

знаний, которые передаются через поколения. Особенно важно, что все эти новые вариации и услуги связаны с набирающим обороты трендом, поскольку те клиенты, для которых мода играет существенную роль, готовы рисковать, чтобы открыть новые пути самовыражения через обувь. И разве есть лучший способ сделать это, чем с помощью той обуви, к дизайну которой вы сами приложили руку? Стильные мужчины больше не довольствуются небольшим выбором, который некогда был им доступен. Теперь они требуют большего от своей обуви. Обувь невозможно заменить чем бы то ни было, поэтому она обязана соответствовать. Десятилетиями ярлык «сделано в Италии» оставался синонимом качества в этом вопросе. Поэтому если вы собираетесь обновить свою обувь, поступите правильно: создайте свою собственную, и сделайте это по-итальянски.

76: Design Queen

Королева дизайна Дизайнер Патрисия Уркиола – заметная фигура в мире итальянского дизайна интерьеров. Джош Симс поговорил с ней о вдохновении и новациях Загляните в любой итальянский шоурум интерьерного дизайна или мебели – и уже скоро вы обнаружите лидеров в этой сфере: Bof, B&B Italia, Cassina, Kartell и Alessi – это только некоторые из них. Причем многие по-прежнему остаются независимыми или семейными предприятиями: они продолжают работать с покупателями, раздвигая границы привычного и совершенствуя производственные методы. И именно таким образом они сумели войти в самые красивые дома мира. Все чаще эти признанные интерьерные компании обращаются к Патрисии Уркиоле за сотрудничеством. Испанка по происхождению, Уркиола развивала свой талант под руководством ведущих дизайнеров Италии Вико Маджистретти, Акилла Кастильони и Пьеро Лиссони.

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женственными в «индустриальном мире» дизайна, как выражается сама Уркиола: «В èтой сфере много мужчин, многие менеджеры, принимающие решения, считают, что им, похоже, нужен мужчина во главе проекта – для надежности, – предполагает Уркиола, размышляя о том, что и женским талантам нужно дать возможность раскрыться. – Я думаю, общество понимает èто, поскольку оно становится все более и более женским в некотором смысле, и более демократичным». Дом Уркиолы находится прямо над ее офисом. Когда есть возможность, она тестирует прототипы своих разработок на себе – пробуя жить с ними в интерьере. Вероятно, именно поèтому ее проекты столь успешны. Дизайнер считает, что облик

PHOTO: ALESSANDRO PADERNI EYE STUDIO

Сейчас Уркиола живет и работает в Милане: 15 лет назад она открыла собственную студию и вскоре стала, пожалуй, самым важным дизайнером своего поколения. Пока мы с ней разговариваем, она проводит рукой по функциональной, но теплой кухонной мебели, разработанной для Bof. В этом комплекте особенно важна модульная структура, благодаря которой мебель встраивается даже в небольшие пространства: «Смотрите, как это работает», – она берется за ручку похожей на разделочную доску деревянной поверхности и с легкостью раздвигает ее, превращая в столик для завтрака. Это первый кухонный гарнитур в истории Bof, над которым работает женщина. «Мы очень мужская компания с очень мужской продукцией. Но мы осознавали, что нам нужен более женский подход к материалам и цветам. Кроме того, мы хотели собрать кухню без традиционных шкафов, – так исполнительный директор Bof Роберто Гавацци объясняет свое решение обратиться к Патрисии Уркиоле.

– Она прибегает к плавным и изогнутым линиям там, где мы склонны видеть квадратные формы». Уркиола работает с самыми разными брендами, от Hermès and Salvatore Ferragamo до Driade, Moroso, BMW, Ruinart, Panasonic, Mandarin Oriental и Flos. Соблазнительные, увлекающие, приятные для прикосновений, – все èти характеристики применимы к ее творениям. Их можно называть

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взаимозаменяются, что облегчает чистку и ремонт (например, в случае повреждения ножек). «Я любопытна, – говорит она о своей склонности доводить любую вещь до идеального состояния. – Когда я работаю над определенным проектом, то это все, что я делаю, и все, о чем я думаю. А еще я люблю ломать стереотипы, включая свои собственные. Ведь чтобы двигаться вперед, нужно выйти из зоны комфорта».

домашних предметов должен постоянно напоминать о чем-то, вызывать ассоциации. Эту идею ей подал друг – шеф-повар Ферран Адрия. Так, офисное кресло 2006 Smock, например, обыгрывает узор сорочки, которую носил первый ребенок Уркиолы. А софа Night & Day для другой итальянской компании Molteni & C создана с учетом того, как люди используют этот предмет мебели: ведь софа – это не выставочный образец, а настоящий центр отдыха, работы и игр. Поэтому Уркиола разработала базовое, но умное решение, где в зависимости от потребностей можно менять конфигурацию подушек, подлокотников, корзин, ящиков и столиков. «Функциональность, конечно, важна, но ее одной недостаточно. Для меня всегда большое значение имеет ощущения от использования предмета и соединение всех этих направлений. Важны требовательный подход, связь с культурой и понимание общественных процессов. Вам не нужно знать все, что можно знать о стульях, чтобы просто создать стул», – делится дизайнер. Для Уркиолы сотрудничество с различными компаниями открывает новые творческие возможности, будь то ремесленные техники или производственный процесс. Софа Bend для B&B Italia, например, обита тканью с продвинутым видом пэтчворка и наполнена новаторской мульти-перфорированной пеной. Преимущество этой пены в том, что она легче и экономичнее в расходе, однако сохраняет высокий уровень комфорта. Подушки кресла Husk, также созданного для B&B Italia, полностью снимаются и globalblue.com

130: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить Tax Free формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте свыше €154.94 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

美文翻译

60: Italy’s New Woman 意大利新女性 米兰时装周的舞台上，意大利品牌标志性的传统 设计正在被更前卫、更富个性的风格取代，Beth Druce为您娓娓道来 时尚总是千变万化。有时，时尚的变化微妙细小而 难以定位，例如楔形后跟缓缓退出舞台，又或紧身 瘦腿牛仔裤成为明日黄花；有时，时尚的转变却快 速而凶猛——古驰（Gucci）前两季的表现便是最 好的诠释。 独具慧眼和胆识的新任创意总监Alessandro Michele上任后，优雅性感、风情无限的古驰女装便 迎来了古灵精怪、多姿多彩和卡通化的风格转变。如 今，“古驰”即意味着印花丝绸、彩色蕾丝、编织长裙 与披肩、蝴蝶结、多色系的卢勒克斯金属丝和霓虹色 透明雪纺。错视画派风格的纽扣、腰带、领结堪称点 睛之笔，加以绚丽多姿的珠子和亮片的点缀，分外惹 人喜爱。“这是一场真真正正的，过去与未来之间的 碰撞，”Michele在接受《纽约时报》的采访时说道。 globalblue.com

在一定程度上，这也解释了看似违和的元素搭配何 以能够成功表达这个季节的鲜明特色。 古驰当季服装系列的核心设计理念是“极客时 尚”风格。在系列新品的设计当中，闪闪发光的大号 眼镜、编织手套、襟花和悬于腕间的短款手提包颇 受青睐。不过，古驰的传统设计元素仍然处处可见， 例如服装的腰部或下摆部分就别出心裁地点缀着品 牌标志性的红绿条纹；还有金光闪闪的联锁双“G” 标志，尽管近年来的标志更具复古风格，不如过往那 么闪耀明快。 Vogue Runway杂志的首席评论家、Gucci by Gucci一书的作者Sarah Mower认为，Gucci设计 焦点的转变远不仅与这家时尚大牌的设计团队有 关。“Alessandro Michele上任以来，古驰改头换 面的速度之快令人惊异不已，” Mower说道。“我认 为，Alessandro Michele引导着时尚界对新鲜、温 暖、人性化和中庸感的追求。” Michele为古驰带来的颠覆性变革正符合时 尚的潮流，而初次被Gucci采用的的古怪风格已经 成为了米兰时装周上的一条主线。设计师Miuccia Prada一直以来就是以怪诞的设计而闻名时尚界； 正当其他品牌初涉古怪风格的时候，Prada早已对 这门艺术驾轻就熟。本季度，Prada推出了一款20

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68: Best Foot Forward 最佳跨越 摩登男士欲借助鞋履表达更多自我，意大利领军品 牌已先行一步，Hannah Lewis报道 在春夏男装秀场上，实验性鞋款表现突出。Dolce & Gabbana的休闲帆布鞋，印有与长裤及运动衫交相 呼应、同样大胆的中世纪版画风格印花。Gucci则以 花卉图案、果敢配色与天鹅绒面料装点足部，并为 脚踝处添上锋利铆钉。当Bottega Veneta创造出令 人意想不到的袜子配凉鞋潮流，Emporio Armani 的正装鞋款，则以佩斯利印花搭配高台粗跟鞋底。 男士的衣橱变得越来越不严肃，诸如领带之类 不再是日常生活的必需品，从而为鞋履让出更多衣 橱空间。虽说成衣品牌纷纷成功借助鞋履的力量赢 得客户——鞋子或许是顾客从某个品牌购买的第一 件单品，而那些专业制鞋品牌才是人们会反复回头 光顾的商家。 在穿衣打扮方面，男性从来是出了名的保守； 当准备去接受一些与众不同的事物时，他们信赖的 往往是那些久经考验的名字：要购买独特个性的鞋 履，还有比自己经常光顾选购奢华基本款的品牌那 里更适合的地点吗？譬如，Alberto Guardiani是 意大利最负盛名的专业鞋履品牌之一，亦越来越 迎合大胆着装男性的口味，为他们奉上麂皮迷彩与 世纪60年代风格的直筒西装外套，以银色条纹、粗 花呢和格子呢为饰，再衬以淡色薄纱。系列新品还 包括饰有深色几何色块的针织衫、悬于膝盖和小腿 之间的下摆，以及真皮保龄球包和大号耳饰等众多 精致配饰；而其中最精美的单品，莫过于头颈周围 的网状薄纱。 对于Marni这个品牌来说，配饰与服装皆匠心独 运，异乎寻常的细节俯拾即是。当季新品采用醒目的 原色底布，其上不仅有烟粉与珠绿色争奇斗艳，更有 自由图案与几何线条完美交融，图案与色彩中皆见 反差。凭借超大号的真皮手提包、有机玻璃垂坠耳环 和方头粗带平底凉鞋，设计师Consuelo Castiglioni 再次证明了自己顶级左派时装设计师的地位。 伴随着古驰的高调转型和Marni等品牌的创新 设计，意大利时尚界被推上风口浪尖，而天马行空的 试验性倾向尤其激动人心。毫无疑问，米兰设计潮 流的转变正吸引着越来越多的目光。怪诞的时装风 格不再被视为异类，反而逐渐成为常态。 这并不意味着风情万种、绝代风华的意大利女 性从此离开时尚的舞台，不过她们再也不是T台上的 唯一主角了。新新女性已经诞生，她们更前卫大胆、 更古灵精怪，而Gucci、Prada和Marni等品牌将帮 助她们尽情展现魅力。

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斑马纹小马皮驾驶鞋，及钴蓝色编织厚平底鞋之类 的选择。 这些风格或许并不适合每个人，但男鞋界对 于创新的需求并不只是一阵短暂的秀场风潮而 已——每位男士都至少应该拥有一双出挑鞋履。对 于那些希望超越经典、展示个性的人而言，私人定 制与按需定制是适合他们的方向。 在Fratelli Rossetti，卓越工艺是亘古不变的重 心。在过去60多年以来，这间家族企业始终走在制 鞋业的前列，所以自然而然地，其团队迅速响应男 士鞋履向个性化发展的诉求。以定制服务为例。品 牌位于Montenapoleone大街的旗舰店，独家为顾 客们提供定制奢华Fratelli Rossetti鞋款的服务。 在定制全过程中，品牌会为每名客人分派一名品牌 的资深工匠，负责从最初的预约到最终成品的交付， 旨在为客人打造真正度身定制、完美合衬的鞋履， 主人的姓名也会被手工书写于鞋内足跟垫上。 量身定制服务涵盖20多种款式，采用Fratelli Rossetti最为奢华的皮料系列——从珍稀小牛皮到 鬣蜥与鳄鱼皮——以及丰富的色彩选择。品牌最近 还推出了按需定制服务，顾客们可以打造拥有个性 化特征的品牌经典款式，包括Brera船鞋，这款单品 以米兰最具艺术气息的地区命名。定制服务还包括 Fratelli Rossetti的Toledo皮革，以手工绘制技术 globalblue.com

打造，使得每双鞋都奢华且独特。 并非只有Fratelli Rossetti意识到男性对鞋履需求 的转变。在Salvatore Ferragamo，Driver驾驶鞋向来 是最畅销的，所以当品牌为顾客推出定制服务，这款单 品显而易见位列其中。在全球指定旗舰店中，男士们可 以定制属于自己的Driver鞋款。有超过100种的鞋面、 鞋底与五金配件可供选择，色彩与材质的丰富程度同样 可观。该服务还有一道个性笔触：即提供刻字服务，让 你真正在鞋履上留下个性标记。 Fratelli Rossetti与Salvatore Ferragamo虽是传 统品牌，但他们已将目光坚定地投向未来；正是这种将 传统技艺与当代手法和科技相结合的能力，让上述品 牌如此成功。最佳男性鞋履应当是摩登且别致的，同时 由工匠们使用代代相传的经典工艺打造。重要的是，随 着具备时尚头脑的顾客们更愿意大胆尝试，并试图通 过鞋履表达自己的个性风格，这些新风格与新服务在男 士鞋履界呈现增长趋势。还有什么方式比参与设计自己 的鞋履更能表达自我吗？ 时尚男士们不再满足于过往狭小的选择范围，他们 越发想要从鞋履中获得更多。鞋子不再被认为是人们 因为要出门而不得不穿戴的配件。几十年以来，“意大利 制造”的标签是鞋履世界品质的代名词，所以如果你 想要改变，就恰如其分地改变：按个性定制，并选择意 大利品牌。

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76: Design Queen 设计皇后 才华横溢的设计师Patricia Urquiola在意大利室内 设计界掀起阵阵波澜。她与Josh Sims畅谈创作灵感 与创新来源

这是第一次由女性来设计Bof厨房。“我们是 极度男性化的公司，制造非常男性化的产品，但我们 想在材质与色彩演绎手法中加入更多女性元素，构 建起一个没有传统橱柜的厨房，”Bof的首席执行官 Roberto Gavazzi解释为何会聘请Urquiola。“她在 我们多数会使用方形设计的地方，都使用了曲线。” 流线、细腻、俏皮：人们用这些形容词来 评价Urquiola为庞大客户群体设计的作品，从 爱马仕（Hermès）与Salvatore Ferragamo到 Driade、Moroso、宝马（BMW）、Ruinart、松下 （Panasonic）、东方文华（Mandarin Oriental）与 Flos。这些特征或许可被视为Urquiola口中“工业世 界”设计中的女性化特质。“有许多男人，许多决策 经理认为需要由男性来领导项目，赋予其公信力，” Urquiola表示，她认为应当为女性的才能留出发展 空间。“我觉得社会已经开始理解这点，并且在某些 方面变得越发女性化、民主化。” Urquiola的设计成功秘诀，是永远准备充分，她 会在任何可能条件下，与自己设计的模型共处一室， 在使用中完善它们（她的家就在办公室楼上）。她认 为每件设计都需要让人们有亲切感，这一观点来自 于她的朋友，厨师Ferran Adrià。以她在2006年推 出的Smock办公室椅为例，就是以她第一个孩子的 宝宝睡袋为灵感。她为另一间意大利公司Molteni & globalblue.com

PHOTOS: (TOP) MICHELE BRANCA/PIERO FASANOTTO

参观意大利任何一间室内设计或家具陈列厅，一串 业内领先的名字会立刻跃入眼帘：例如Bof、B&B Italia、Cassina、Kartell与Alessi等。其中很多仍是 独立或家族品牌，以突破造型与制造工艺的边界而 享有盛名。这些家喻户晓的名字，出现在全球最时髦 的房屋中。 一名女性，Patricia Urquiola，越来越多地投 身于为上述品牌发展概念的工作中。她出生于西班 牙，在意大利接受培训，与一批该国最顶尖的设计 师并肩工作，其中包括Vico Magistretti、 Achille Castiglioni与Piero Lissoni。Urquiola在米兰生活 与工作；15年前她成立了自己的设计工作室，或许可 称为同辈中最重要的设计师。 当我们见面时，她将手放置于自己为Bof品牌 设计的、功能性十足但触感温融的厨房表面上，指出 这一设计具有模块化特征，使其特别适用于狭小空 间。“你看这个，”她突然抓住砧板式样的木质橱柜顶 部，将其翻出变成一张早餐桌。

PHOTO: GEORGE APOSTOLIDIS

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C设计的Night & Day沙发，充分考虑人们对沙发的 使用习惯，使其不只是一件摆设，而是人们休憩、工 作与娱乐的交互枢纽。她选用了基本但巧妙的结构， 沙发上的靠垫可以转变为扶手、置物篮、存储单元甚 至可以偶尔当成桌子用。 “功能性当然重要，但这是不够的。对我而言， 更关注人们使用家具的体验以及如何将其结合到产 品中。我们必须采取批判的态度，与本土文化相连 接，并融入自己对社会发展的体察。如果要设计一张 椅子，你并不需要知道关于椅子的一切。” Urquiola同样对与公司合作探索新方法兴趣盎 然，无论是一种新制作工艺还是一项新工业流程。以 一款为B&B Italia设计的沙发Bend为例，设计师在 外罩设计上采用了巧妙的格纹编织，并使用具有开 创性的多孔发泡填充材质，与标准发泡素材一样柔 软但重量更轻，并可节省原料。她为B&B Italia设计 的一款椅子Husk，则使用了可拆卸及清洗的缓冲系 统，这款椅子的每一个部分都可被拆卸或替换，譬 如当某条腿损坏的时候。 “我只是好奇，”关于自己将设计推进到极致完 美的偏执，她如此形容。“当我设计一件作品时，是 全神贯注的，它占据了我脑中所想的一切。我乐于打 破偏见，包括自己的固有陈见。就像艺术家一样，想 要有所突破就必须走出自己的安全地带。”

130: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程：

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 （Global Blue Tax Free Form）。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 退税点领取您的退税款。 联系方式：

taxfree@globalblue.com

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+421 232 111 111 消费超过€154.94即可节约高达购买价格15.5%的金 额。请注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣 除管理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位 收取现金退税手续费。 日本語翻訳

60: Italy’s New Woman イタリアの新たな女性像

ファッションに変化は付きものだ。変化はウェッジヒ ールが徐々に見られなくなり、スキニージーンズが知 らぬ間に姿を消したように、微妙で正確に表現しに くい場合がある。一方、急激に容赦なく変わる場合 もあり、グッチでここ2シーズンほど見られるのはま さにこの手の変化だ。 アレッサンドロ・ミケーレが同ブランドの大胆な 新ビジョンを掲げてクリエイティブディレクターに就 任して以来、洗練された官能とインパクトの強い魅 力を持ったグッチの女性像は、一風変わったカラフ ルで漫画チックな女性像に取って代わられている。 今のグッチはプリントシルクやカラーレース、クロシ ェット編みのスカートやケープ、リボン、多彩なルレ ックス（ラメ用の糸）、ネオンカラーの透明シフォン が代表的なイメージになっている。服にはカラフル で遊び心あふれるビーズやシークインで実物のよう な錯覚を覚えるトロンプルイユのボタンやベルト、 リボンをあしらうといった心憎いテクニックも使われ ている。 「まさしく過去と未来のそうした矛盾がテー マ」だとミケーレはニューヨーク・タイムズ紙に語っ ているが、そう考えれば、本来なら不協和音を醸す ようなルックスを組み合わせたコレクションが今シ ーズン最強のメッセージをうまく伝えていることもあ る程度納得がいく。 現コレクションならではの魅力は「ギークシッ ク」なスタイリングだ。このスタイルでは、華麗な特 大メガネやクロシェット編みの手袋、コサージュ、手 首に下げる持ち手の短いハンドバッグなどを好んで 使っている。一方で、特徴的な赤と緑のストライプを ウエストや裾に効果的に使うなど昔ながらのグッチ らしさも見られ、金色のG の字を絡ませたモチーフ も、従来より艶を抑えて使い込んだ感じを出してい るとはいえ健在だ。 「ヴォーグ・ランウェイ」サイトでチーフ評論家 globalblue.com

を務め、 『グッチ・バイ・グッチ』の著者でもあるサ ラ・モウワーにとって、こうしたフォーカスの移り変わ りはグッチブランドのデザイン実績を超えた意味を 持つ。 「アレッサンドロ・ミケーレが着任して以来、グ ッチの抜本的見直しと刷新が驚くべきスピードで進 んでいます」と、モウワーは説明する。 「ファッション が追い求める斬新さと温かみ、折衷的な感性にか けては、彼は他の先を行っていると思います。」 ミケーレは時代の感性に応えてグッチを刷新し てきたが、同レーベルが新たに取り入れたエキセン トリックさを好感する声は、ミラノのキャットウォー クに共通して聞かれた。デザイナーのミウッチヤ・プ ラダは昔から一風変わったデザインで知られ、奇想 天外なスタイルの世界に他者が初めて進出してきて いる中で、プラダのこの美学の取り入れ方は堂に入 っている。プラダでは今シーズン、四角張った1960 年代スタイルのスーツジャケットをシルバーのストラ イプやツイード、タータンで飾り、パステル色のガー ゼを重ねている。濃い色の無地ブロックを幾何学模 様に配したニットや、膝とふくらはぎの中間で揺れる

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

ミラノのキャットウォークでは、イタリアンレーベル に特徴的なグラマラスなスタイルに代わって大胆で 個性あるスタイルが登場している。ベス・ドゥルース がレポートする。

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裾、革製のボウリングバッグや巨大な飾り玉のイヤリ ングといった目を引くアクセサリーの数々もある。中 でも最注目のアイテムは、首回りをドレープ状に包む 網のようなベールだ。 マルニは、服はもちろんアクセサリーにも意味を 持たせるブランドで、風変わりなディテールはこのレ ーベルの本質の一部でもある。今シーズンは、大胆 な原色にアクセントとしてダスキーピンクやジェイド グリーンを加えたカラーパレットを基調として、緩や かな形と幾何学的な線を対照的なプリントや色で 組み合わせたコレクションとなっている。特大の革製 「サック」ハンドバッグに、ブラブラ揺れるアクリル 樹脂のイヤリング、太めのストラップがついたスクエ アトウサンダルなど、同レーベルデザイナーのコンス エロ・カスティリオーニが意表を突くファッションデ ザインの名手であることを改めて印象付けている。 グッチで大々的な変化が起こり、 マルニなどのレ ーベルも大胆なタッチを見せるイタリアンファッショ ンは今や注目の的であり、特にその実験的な新傾向 にはワクワク感がある。明らかなのは、ミラノで見ら

れたデザインフォーカスの移り変わりには抗しがた い魅力があって、その魅力がますます大きくなってい るということ。そして、風変わりで奇抜な装いが例外 ではなく、むしろ標準になりつつあるということだ。 洗練されたセクシーなイタリア女性の理想像が 永遠に消滅したわけではないだろうが、もはやキャッ トウォークを独占する存在ではなくなっている。大 胆でそれまでより遊び心豊かな新たな女性のコンセ プトが生まれ、グッチやプラダ、 マルニはその精神を とらえ、称えている。

68: Best Foot Forward 高級紳士靴のニューエージ 現代の男性は靴にもこだわる。そのニーズに応える イタリアの有名ブランドを、ハンナ・ルイスがレポー トする。 春夏メンズウェアのキャットウォークでは、実験的 な靴が際立っていた。ドルチェ＆ガッバーナでは、

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カジュアルなエスパドリーユがズボンやスウェット シャツと同じ大胆な中世柄プリントで登場。グッチ は花柄や大胆な色彩、触感豊かなベルベットで足 元を飾り、足首部分にスパイクのついた靴も披露し た。ボッテガ・ヴェネタではソックスにサンダル履き という意外なトレンドを発信したし、エンポリオ・ア ルマーニのドレスシューズはがっちりしたカットアウ トの靴底にペイズリー柄プリントのアッパーという組 み合わせだった。 ワードローブはフォーマル度が低くなって、ネク タイの類はもはや毎日必要なものではなくなり、男 性の装いは靴が鍵になってきている。既製服ブラン ドはこの靴の引力をうまく活かしている。今まで試し たことのないレーベルを試す人はまず靴あたりから 入るのではということだろうが、消費者が頼りにする のはやはり専門店だ。 男性はファッションで実 験することには消極 的だとよく言われ、何か少し変わった物が欲しい時 も、定評のある銘柄を好む。ステートメントとしての 靴を買うのに、高級な定番商品を長年愛用してきた レーベルより適した店があるだろうか。例えば、アル ベルト・ガルディアーニはイタリア随一の靴専門店 だが、スエードのカモフラージュやゼブラプリントの globalblue.com

ポニースキンで作ったドライビングシューズ、コバル トブルーの編地プラットフォームなど、装いの勇者向 けの製品を増やしてきている。 こうしたスタイルは誰にでも履きこなせるもので はないが、紳士靴の世界における新しさの追求はキ ャットウォーク上の束の間の流行に止まらない。どん な男性でも、際立つ靴を一足は持ちたいものだ。ク ラシック志向のスタイルが好みなら、誂えやオーダー メードがいいだろう。 フラテッリ・ロセッティは、優れた職人技を何よ り大事にしている。60 年以上にわたり家族経営して きた同社は靴作りの先導者。メンズフットウェアに 個性を求める声への対応が素早かったのも、不思議 ではない。例えば誂えサービスだ。モンテナポレオ ーネ通りにある同ブランドの旗艦店で専門に取り扱 うこのサービスのおかげで、クライアントは自分の ためだけに作られたフラテッリ・ロセッティの高級 靴を手にできる。各クライアントを同ブランドの名 工の一人が受け持ち、初回アポから最終製品の納 品まで全プロセスを担当するため、ぴたりとフィット する真の誂え靴に仕上がる。持ち主の名前を内側 かかと部分のクッションに手描きで入れてくれるの も特徴だ。

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この誂え靴は型が約 20 種あり、カーフスキンか らイグアナ、クロコダイルまで、フラテッリ・ロセッテ ィの最高級素材が選べ、色の選択肢も多数ある。 同ブランドでは最近オーダーメードサービスも始め た。顧客は、ミラノでも特に芸術の香り豊かな地区 にちなんで名づけられた「ブレラ」ローファーなど同 ブランドのクラシックなスタイルを基本に、自分の 個性を反映させた靴を作ることができる。このサー ビスは拡大され、フラテッリ・ロセッティの「トレド」 レザーも対象になっている。職人が技を駆使して 手描きする高級かつユニークな製品だ。 男性が靴に求めるものが変化したことを認識し ているのは、フラテッリ・ロセッティだけではない。 サルヴァトーレ・フェラガモでは、ドライビングシュ ーズ「ドライバー」がベストセラーの常連で、同レー ベルでオーダーメードサービスを始めた時もこのス タイルを対象に含めるべきなのは明らかだった。世 界中の旗艦店で受け付けているこのサービスを使 えば、自分バージョンのドライバーが手に入る。甲 革、底、ハードウェア（鳩目、バックルなど）のバリ エーションは100 種以上で、色も素材もとびきり素 晴らしいものを揃えている。仕上げに、もう一つパー ソナルなサービスとして名入れがある。そうして本当

に「自分の」靴になるわけだ。 フラテッリ・ロセッティもサルヴァトーレ・フェラ ガモも老舗ブランドだが、共に将来にしっかり目を 据えている。このように伝統的手法を土台にしつつ 現代的な考え方をしテクノロジーを駆使できること こそが、大成功の秘訣だ。出来る男の靴は現代的 で個性的、それでいて何世代にもわたって受け継 がれてきた知識を持つ玄人が丹精込めて作るもの だ。そして何より大事なのは、こうした新たなスタイ ルやサービスが、ファッションに敏感なクライアン トがリスクを冒し、自分なりのスタイルを靴を通じ て表現しようとするメンズフットウェアのトレンドの 強まりを意識したものだということ。自己表現なら、 デザインに一役買うことほど素敵な手段があるだろ うか。 従来の狭い選択肢にはもはや満足できないス タイリッシュな男たちは、靴にもこだわるようになっ ている。靴を決しておざなりにしない。何しろ靴は 付けずに外出することのない唯一のアクセサリーな のだから。靴の世界では「メイド・イン・イタリア」が 何十年も昔から品質本位の代名詞だった。だから 何をするにも中途半端はいけない。とことんこだわ って自分のものにしよう。それでこそイタリア産だ。

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76: Design Queen デザイン・クイーン イタリアンインテリアデザインの世界に波乱を巻き 起こしている有能デザイナーのパトリシア・ウルキオ ラが、インスピレーションとイノベーションについて ジョッシュ・シムズに語った。 イタリアでインテリアデザインや家具のショールー ムを巡れば、業界をリードする名前のオンパレード。 ボッフィ、B& Bイタリア、カッシーナ、カルテル、アレ ッシィなどはそのごく一部だ。多くは今でも独立系や 家族経営の企業だが、形だけでなく製造手法にお いても限界を押し広げることで知られ、世界でも洗 練を極めた家ではお馴染みのブランドだ。 そうしたインテリアブランドのためのアイデア開 発で、目覚ましい活躍を見せる一人の女性がいる。 パトリシア・ウルキオラだ。スペイン生まれだが修行 したのはイタリアで、先輩や同輩にはヴィコ・マジス トレッティ、アッキーレ・カスティリオーニ、ピエロ・リ ッソーニといったイタリア有数のデザイナーがいる。 ウルキオラの生活と仕事の場はミラノだ。15 年前に デザインスタジオを立ち上げた彼女は、同世代随一 の重要デザイナーと言っていいだろう。 インタビューでは、自身がボッフィのためにデザ インしたキッチンの機能的ながら温かみのある表面 を手で撫でながら、デザインにモジュール性があっ て狭いスペースに適しているとを指摘した。かと思え ば突然「これを見て！」とまな板スタイルの木製カウ ンタートップをつかんだ。引き出すと、カウンターは ブレックファストテーブルに早変わり。 これは、女性がボッフィのためにデザインした初 のキッチンだ。 「うちはとても男っぽい会社で、製品 も極めて男性的なんですが、素材や色彩に対するア プローチにもっと女性的な要素が必要だと感じてい ました。ありきたりの従来型キャビネットを使わずキ ッチンを構成できればと思っていたのです」と、ボッ フィの CEOロベルト・ガヴァッツィはウルキオラの 起用を決めた理由を説明する。 「通常なら四角を使 ってしまいがちなところに、彼女は曲線を使うんで す。」 曲線美、触感、遊び心 ― これらはいずれも、 エルメス、サルヴァトーレ・フェラガモ、ドリアデ、モ ローゾ、BMW、ルイナール、パナソニック、マンダリ ンオリエンタル、フロスまで幅広いクライアント向け にウルキオラがデザインした作品の記述に使われて きた言葉だ。彼女がいう「産業デザインの世界」で は女性らしい特徴と見られ得る。 「男性が多いんで す。意思決定する管理者も男性が多くて、おそらく 信頼性あるプロジェクトにするには男が表に立たな globalblue.com

くては駄目だと感じているんでしょうね」と話すウルキオ ラは、女性の才能が花開くようにスペースを与えるべき だと続けた。 「社会はそのことをわかっていると思いま す。ある面では女性的になってきていますし、民主化が 進んでいますから。」 ウルキオラのデザインが成功しているのはおそらく、 試作品を改良し完成させる過程で自分で実際に使って みることを厭わないからだろう（オフィス上階に自宅があ る）。一つ一つのデザインが親しみの持てるものでなけ ればならないと、彼女はいう。友人のシェフ、フェラン・ア ドリアから得たアイデアだ。例えば、2006 年の作品「ス モック」オフィスチェアには、自分の第一子が赤ん坊だ った頃に着ていたスモックのデザインが盛り込まれてい る。同じくイタリア企業のモルテー二のためにデザインし た「ナイト&デイ」ソファーは、ソファーの使われ方を把 握した上で、つまり見て楽しむのでなく休んだり仕事した

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ド」というソファは、カバーに巧みなパッチワーク形 を用いているが、インナーはこのために開発された画 期的な多孔質発泡体で、快適さは標準的な発泡体と 変わらないのに軽く、使用材料が少なくて済む。同じ くB & Bイタリアの「ハスク」チェアは取り外し自由で 洗濯可能なクッションシステムになっており、デザイ ンの構成要素の一つ一つが取り外し・交換可能なの で足が壊れたりしても大丈夫だ。 何事もちょうどよくなるまで追求し続けるこだわ りを、 「好奇心があるだけ」だという彼女。 「一つ事を 始めるとのめりこんで、それしか考えなくなるんです。 それに、固定観念を打ち破るのが好きなんです。自分 自身のも含めて。アーティストと同じで、前進するには ぬるま湯から出なくちゃね。」

130: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

PHOTO: GEORGE APOSTOLIDIS

海外でのお買い物が免税に

り遊んだりするアイランド型ハブとしてデザインされ ている。デザインはベーシックだが優れた構造で、ク ッションの並べ方次第でアームレスト、バスケット、 収納ユニット、場合によってはテーブルにもなる。 「機能性はもちろん重要ですが、それだけでは 十分ではありません。私にとって大事なのは生活シ ーン。それを一つの製品として形にしていくのです。 批判的な態度で関連文化を結び付けていく作業 で、社会がどう進化しているのかを感じ取ることが 大事です。椅子のデザインは、椅子について知り得 ること全てを知らなきゃできないわけではないんで す。」 ウルキオラは、企業と共同で新たな家具作りの 方法（手仕事の技であろうが工業プロセスであろう が）を模索することにも、等しく興味を持っている。 例えば、B & Bイタリアのためにデザインした「ベン

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利 用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街 にある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得 になります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。 手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップ を踏むだけです。

1. お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免 税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってくだ さい。 2.還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にス タンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの 還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。 お問い合わせ： taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154 .94を超えるお買い物をすれば、購入価格の 最高15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払 い戻し額は、付加価値税（ VAT）合計から事務手 数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了 承ください。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しを ご希望の場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免税書類 ごとに課されます。

154 | P RO D U C T S

BLUE FOR YOU Sneakers have become style essentials and this turquoise pair by Louis Leeman will see you through from day to night. Dutch shoe designer Leeman established the label in 2012 after meeting Italian stylist Erica Pelosini in Florence and they combined their expertise to build a men’s footwear brand. These high-top sneakers feature super-cool silver hardware, thick soles and durable grainy blue leather. All Leeman footwear is handmade in Italy with Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 130

close attention paid to details such as metal accessories and embroidery, and top-quality fabric is used, often sporting futuristic prints.

The label has collaborated with Roberto Cavalli and Cesare Casadei and has recently opened a fagship store in New York. These high-top sneakers are the perfect addition to any man’s wardrobe for the spring and summer. fm Louis Leeman high-top sneakers, €770, Antonioli, Via Pasquale Paoli 1, 20143 Milan, +39 02 3656 6494, louisleeman.com

PHOTO: TAILERSTUDIO.IT

SOUVENIR

GLOBAL BLUE LOUNGE

RELAX. REFRESH. REFUND. Our Global Blue Lounge is the perfect place to relax during your time in Milan.

Situated in the heart of the city’s luxury shopping district, the lounge is a haven for tax free shopping.

Enjoy this dedicated space where you can make the most of our local shopping expertise, use our free Wi-Fi to catch up and connect, and quickly take care of your tax refund.

Find us at: Via Santo Spirito 5, First Floor - Milan Monday to Saturday 10am to 7:30pm