MILAN | 米兰 | МИЛАН | ミラノ
MILAN Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2018
DISCOVER MILAN: the city known as Italy’s fashion hub is home to the world’s most luxurious brands
MILANO Via Manzoni, 34 - Corso Vercelli, 2 Corso Buenos Aires, 16
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EDITOR’S LETTER
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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this bustling international style hub, often referred to as Italy’s fashion capital. Milan has much to offer, as our guide on page 94 reveals. Leading Italian labels are embracing 1990s style – read more in our feature on page 60 – and in this issue we also introduce Italy’s top interiors names (page 72) and profile top lifestyle brand Trussardi (page 80). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to the most prestigious destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Milan. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the new SHOP TAX FREE app, which is available now – find all the details in our news section in this issue. Calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.
Amore
The Mall Luxury Outlet Via Europa 8, Leccio Reggello (FI)
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CONTRIBUTORS
BETH DRUCE Beth Druce is a fashion and luxury writer, and also works as a consultant for a variety of luxury fashion companies. After gaining an MA from Central Saint Martins in London, she began her career at GQ magazine. Beth particularly delights in documenting diverse and quickly evolving trends. globalblue.com
REBECCA RHYS-EVANS SHOP’s fashion and lifestyle writer Rebecca Rhys-Evans has a degree in American literature, history and cultures from the University of Liverpool and formerly ran the online team at the Flannels website. She has previously written for various British and international fashion brands and magazines.
HANNAH LEWIS Hannah Lewis, SHOP’s features editor, holds degrees from the University of Oxford and the London College of Fashion. She has written for a number of international publications, including Time Out in Dubai, Quintessentially in London and Prestige in Hong Kong. Her travel essential is a good book.
ILLUSTRATION: JACK HUGHES; PHOTO: (RIGHT) LAURIE EDWARDS
JACK HUGHES Jack Hughes created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Milan. It shows the bustling interior of the city’s historic Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, the longestestablished shopping mall in Italy and a centre for some of the world’s most covetable luxury brands. Jack’s other clients include Harrods, Burberry and Montblanc. Discover SHOP Milan and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.
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SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L
PUBLISHING
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Acting deputy editor Ruairidh Pritchard Cover illustrator Jack Hughes Contributor Beth Druce Production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion and lifestyle writer Rebecca Rhys-Evans
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese production editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editors Yangzi Liang, Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Senior Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy
News editor Ginger Rose Clark
AVP business development manager Patrice Janet
Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien
Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur
Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne, Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan
Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistant Inga Abramian Marketing intern Joanna Dodge
Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Hayley Moseley Artworker Onur Unaltay Artworking assistant Tatjiana Antoniou Editorial intern Hannah Dall Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Acting online managing editor Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener
Digital production assistant Linda Hau Production assistant Chris Bigg Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing manager Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer
G LO B A L B L U E I TA LY Managing director Stefano Rizzi Marketing sales manager Denise Bolandrina Partner relationship manager Antonella Bertossi Marketing sales executive Eleonora Busico Marketing executive Laura Gallo Marketing coordinator Alberta Reinach Head of key accounts Stefano Cardinale Head of accounts Marco Cavalli Global account managers Simone Borgheresi, Umberto Panizzut, Salvatore Smith Key account managers Benedetta Andreini, Nicoletta Aromando, Caterina De Bernardo, Sabrina Galessi, Consuelo Murari, Marco Savino Account managers Mirko Ardita, Alessandro Bonincontro, Rodolfo Borella, Ludovica Bragato, Nadia Busletta, Laura Durante, Giorgia Faro, Attilio Fioritti, Gabriele Giuntini, Davide Grechi Diana Martin, Elisa Narducci, Francesca Ramiccia, Mattia Sardaro, Giordano Senzacqua, Laura Vitale Global Blue, Via Carlo Noé 33, Gallarate 21013, Varese
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2018 Global Blue
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CONTENTS
PRODUCTS 20
22
36
Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Milan this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of Milan’s best dressed
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20 NEWS 40
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56
80
Tru Style Italian lifestyle label Trussardi has been perfecting Milanese style for over a century. Hannah Lewis discovers the secrets behind the success of this family company
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FEATURES 60
72
Turn Back Time This season’s catwalks saw Italy’s leading labels embracing the best of 1990s style. Beth Druce reports Art At The Heart Of The Home Italy’s top interiors brands share a flair for flamboyance and top-quality craftsmanship, as Rebecca Rhys-Evans discovers
Above (clockwise from top left): Dolce & Gabbana Welcome bag; Woolrich store; Trussardi spring/summer 2018; Springtime collection by Missoni Home
PHOTO: (BOTTOM LEFT) MAX ZAMBELLI
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Shop Window One store not to be missed in Milan News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products In Store … … with Antonio D’Anna at the Krizia boutique on Via della Spiga
MILANO CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE CORSO XXII MARZO 4 CITY LIFE SHOPPING DISTRICT P.ZZA TRE TORRI 1
MARELL A.COM
L.A. STORIES GRACE HARTZEL
CONTENTS EXPERIENCE 86
90
Table Talk Ruairidh Pritchard picks some of the best among Milan’s wealth of Michelin-starred restaurants Relaxing Retreats SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive spa hotels
MILAN GUIDE 94
Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Milan, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights
ESSENTIALS 126 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
129 美文翻 译 134 Русский Перевод 140 日本語翻訳
SOUVENIR 146 The essential item to bring home
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ENG LISH | РУ С СК И Й | 中 文
VISIT US ONLINE...
Visit globalblue.com, our recently relaunched website, for the latest luxury shopping and travel stories, updated daily Погрузитесь в мир роскошного шоппинга и увлекательных путешествий, посетив наш обновлённый сайт – globalblue.ru 访问我们近日新版上线的网站 globalblue.cn, 了解最新奢华购 物旅游信息，每日更新
FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- Globalblue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue @shopmagazine_ Above: the enticing interior of Tokuyoshi restaurant
PHOTOS: (LEFT) MATTIASANTINI.COM; (RIGHT) MEREDITH BRADEN BUCHER
TRANSLATIONS
Milano
corso Vittorio Emanuele
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CHECK OUT
FROM ITALY WITH LOVE As synonymous with Italy as pasta and fine art, Dolce & Gabbana is an Italian label to love. This season the brand offers a new, summerappropriate incarnation of the Welcome bag, first introduced during autumn/winter 2017. The vintage-inspired top-handle bag is perfectly on trend for spring/summer 2018 and this particular style features a wicker handle, hand-embroidered flowers and a fastening reminiscent of the doorbells of Milan’s Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
grand 18th-century buildings. A further quirky addition comes in the hand-stitched ‘Made In Italy With Love’ label; there’s certainly no mistaking the origins of this delightful Italian masterpiece. lt Dolce & Gabbana Welcome bag, €2,750, Dolce & Gabbana, Via della Spiga 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 1155, dolcegabbana.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 111
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PASTEL POWER Cool mint and cream are a perfect palette for spring/summer 2018
Chloé bag, €1,450, Chloé, Via della Spiga 30, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3035 7401, chloe.com
Escada shirt, €770, Escada, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0753, escada.com
Bally shoes, €450, Bally, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 8406, bally.com
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
Longchamp skirt, €750, Longchamp, Via della Spiga 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8493 2705, longchamp.com
PHOTO: (SHOES) © BALLY
Atelier Swarovski by Mary Katrantzou earrings, €349, Swarovski, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 15, 20122 Milan, +39 02 780722, atelierswarovski.com
MILANO C.so V. Emanuele
(angolo Galleria S. Carlo)
Galleria V. Emanuele, 69 C.so Buenos Aires, 39
C.so Vercelli, 35 C.so Genova, 20 C.so XXII Marzo, 5
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BAGS OF STYLE A new-season bag is a joy to behold. For spring/summer 2018, make sure yours is neutral-hued, textured and brimming with style
Louis Vuitton bag, €3,250, Louis Vuitton, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7214 7011, louisvuitton.com
Burberry bag, €1,650, Burberry, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3601 0852, burberry.com
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
Prada bag, price on request, Prada, Via della Spiga 18, 20121 Milan, +39 02 780465, prada.com
Salvatore Ferragamo bag, €1,890, Salvatore Ferragamo, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0054, ferragamo.com
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Céline bag, €3,000, Céline, Via Montenapoleone 25/2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7788 5900, celine.com
PHOTO: (BULGARI) BULGARI/MAURO FABBIO
Bottega Veneta bag, €3,100, Bottega Veneta, Via Sant’Andrea 15, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7787 8115, bottegaveneta.com
Loewe bag, €2,000, Loewe, Via Montenapoleone 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7634 0533, loewe.com
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Bulgari bag, €2,450, Bulgari, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777001, bulgari.com
Tod’s bag, €1,900, Tod’s, Via della Spiga 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2423, tods.com
Miu Miu bag, €1,300, Miu Miu, Via Sant’Andrea 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 1799, miumiu.com
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FEELING BLUE Shades of blue and classic Italian accessories make a daytime look that won’t date
Corneliani bag, price on request, Corneliani, Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7955, corneliani.com
Berluti jumper, €690, Berluti, Via Sant’Andrea 16, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7787 7011, berluti.com
3. Name of product, price, Address & telephone number, website
Ermanno Scervino belt, €250, Gio Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3186, ermannoscervino.com
Moreschi shoes, €375, Moreschi, Corso Venezia 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0529, moreschi.it
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
Tommy Hilfiger trousers, €149, Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, tommy.com
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SOFTLY STYLISH Mix lightweight knitwear with wide-leg jeans in a pale hue for an elegant springtime look
Jimmy Choo bag, €995, Jimmy Choo, Via Sant’Andrea 1A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4548 1770, jimmychoo.com
Marni earrings, €170, Marni, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7327, marni.com
7 For All Mankind jeans, €220, 7 For All Mankind, Via Alessandro Manzoni 43, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4950 4361, 7forallmankind.com
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
Tiffany Metro watch, €17,900, Tiffany & Co, Piazza del Duomo/ Via Ugo Foscolo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8909 4202, tiffany.com
Giambattista Valli shoes, €830, Giambattista Valli, Via Sant’Andrea 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 780218, giambattistavalli.com
PHOTOS: (BAG) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY; (WATCH) T|TIFFANY & CO. STUDIO; (SHOES) PATRICE STABLE
Acne Studios top, €250, Acne Studios, Piazza del Carmine 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8410 2383, acnestudios.com
MAXMARA.COM MILAN - PIAZZA DEL LIBERTY, 4/CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE VIA VICTOR HUGO, 1/VIA OREFICI - CORSO GENOVA, 16 - VIA CUNEO, 3 (FRANCHISEE MAX MARA)
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RAIN OR SHINE In an unpredictable climate, be prepared whatever the weather
Cutler and Gross sunglasses, €325, Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, cutlerandgross.com
Cartier watch, €9,800, Cartier, Via Montenapoleone 16, 20121 Milan, +39 02 303 0421, cartier.com
Pollini shoes, €385, Pollini, Via della Spiga 15, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 5351, pollini.com
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
Santoni bag, €620, Santoni, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0508, santonishoes.com
PHOTO: (WATCH) VINCENT WULVERYCK © CARTIER
Canali coat, €740, Canali, Via Pietro Verri 1-3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7639 0365, canali.com
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EVENING BLOOMS Who says florals are just for daytime? Amp up your after-dark look with bold textures and standout accessories
Alexander McQueen clutch, €2,295, Alexander McQueen, Via Pietro Verri 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3374, alexandermcqueen.com
Sportmax top, €149, Sportmax, Via della Spiga 20, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 1944, sportmax.com
Dsquared2 earrings, €715, Dsquared2, Via Sant’Andrea 18, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8969 1699, dsquared2.com
Aquazzura shoes, €655, Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, aquazzura.com
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
Brunello Cucinelli skirt, €2,490, Brunello Cucinelli, Via Montenapoleone 27C, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 5982, brunellocucinelli.com
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TRAVEL-FRIENDLY TECH Arm yourself with the newest gadgets and a state-of-the-art suitcase for this season’s trips
Leica TL2 camera, €1,950, Leica, Via Giuseppe Mengoni 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8909 5156, leica-camera.com
Apple iPhone X, €1,189, Trony, Piazza San Babila, 20122 Milan, +39 02 8342 2330, apple.com
BeoPlay M5 wireless speaker, €599, Bang & Olufsen, Corso Garibaldi 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 4193, beoplay.com
Tumi suitcase, €660, Tumi, Via Pietro Verri 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 4830, tumi.com
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
PHOTO: (SPEAKER) JEPPE SØRENSEN
Frends headphones, €199, Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, wearefrends.com
STREET STYLE Texture, embellishment and intricate details reign supreme with this season’s street-style set. Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana are the most covetable labels and fresh femininity flows throughout, seen in midi-length skirts and delicate pleats
PHOTOS: © MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
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STREET STYLE
Smart tailoring mixed with artistic prints is the look of the season for men in Milan – colours are kept muted and shirts buttoned low for the ultimate Italian aesthetic, while a classic pair of shades adds the final touch of class
PHOTOS: © MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
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SHOP WINDOW
GOING TO EXTREMES Woolrich recently opened its first standalone boutique in Milan, designed by Japanese studio Wonderwall. A celebration of the outerwear brand’s long history of almost 200 years, the new flagship also showcases Woolrich’s modern approach to garment design. Once you’ve bought your favourite styles, head to the Custom Area, where your purchases can be personalised with details such as studs or embroidery. In the lounge, customers can relax with a coffee and admire a display of items selected from Woolrich’s historic creations. Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
Complimentary Wi-Fi is available, and the Green Area offers a curated selection of plants. The Extreme Weather Experience Room is a highlight; the temperature drops to -20°C, allowing customers to discover for themselves how supremely well Woolrich clothing performs in extreme conditions. fm Woolrich, Corso Venezia 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8688 7600, woolrich.eu FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 105
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STEPPING OUT Founded near Milan in 1953, the Fratelli Rossetti footwear brand is currently run by the second generation of the Rossetti family. For spring/summer 2018 Fratelli Rossetti presents the Ocean Weave collection for men, featuring three different weave variations. Slippers (pictured) are updated with a perforated weave, a zigzag motif adorns the Brera loafers, while the Oxford shoes feature a micro-weave. The brand is the official shoe partner of football team AS Roma for the 2017/18 season, supplying each player with personalised footwear. grc Fratelli Rossetti, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1650, fratellirossetti.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 110
CELEBRATE WITH ETRO Etro, one of Italy’s most celebrated family-run fashion houses, is marking its 50th anniversary. For spring/summer 2018, Veronica and Kean Etro, the founder’s children, have created a collection true to the brand’s heritage. Reflecting their father Gerolamo Etro’s love for the traditions and customs of India, the Tree of Life is a celebration of all things vibrant, vivacious and bohemian. It is the first to be presented as a collection of both women’s and men’s clothing and is peppered with Etro’s signature paisley prints and embellishment. The brand is certainly set to celebrate its half-century in style. lt Etro, Via Montenapoleone 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 5049, etro.com
PHOTO: (RIGHT) ALDO CASTOLDI
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 110
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
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STYLISH SHADES The Peekaboo bag has become a signature model for Fendi and the range now goes beyond leather goods and also serves as the inspiration for eyewear. This season, Peekaboo sunglasses come in a range of colours and shapes: a cat-eye style in red makes a bold statement, while a round-framed Peekaboo in baby pink (both €310) offers a retro look. With Fendi’s must-have Peekaboo sunglasses, you can step into the summer in style. grc Fendi, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1617, fendi.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 110
AN INSPIRED MIX Creative director Simon Holloway took inspiration from the work of artist David Hockney when designing Agnona’s spring/ summer 2018 collection. In minimalist pieces infused with a sporty twist, colours reminiscent of California provide a summery feel. Agnona has always focused on fabrics and this season is no different, with crepe de chine, cotton twill, silk and incredibly light cashmere all featuring. They are used in recurring pieces within the collection, such as cleverly constructed kimonos, ponchos and tunics, while the classic twinset is reinterpreted in new ways. A perfect assortment of accessories – soft clutches in lambskin, bi-coloured leather belts and slippers with platform soles – rounds out the range. grc Agnona, Via Sant’Andrea 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 798649, agnona.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 108 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
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ITALIAN HERITAGE Celebrating its 90th anniversary, Italian fashion house Luisa Spagnoli has created a spring/summer 2018 collection that pays homage to the brand’s history and revisits archive pieces. The label has included signature designs and prints, each reimagined for a contemporary wardrobe. The new collection includes luxurious angora knitwear, feminine tailoring and elegant, limited-edition evening dresses, while accessories include bags in pressed crocodile and saffiano leather, and an expanded range of sunglasses, reflecting the luxury label’s stylish history. rp
Luisa Spagnoli, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 69, 20121 Milan, +39 02 805 7577, luisaspagnoli.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 100
A WORLD OF DESIGN bathroom-focused Salone del Bagno. In addition, SaloneSatellite offers an insight into emerging designers, with a focus on Africa and Latin America for 2018. Highlights of this year’s Salone del Mobile include an immersive experience in the heart of Milan, one of many exciting events on the schedule. grc Salone del Mobile.Milano, Fiera Milano, Strada Statale del Sempione 28, 20017 Rho, +39 02 725941, salonemilano.it
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) SALONE DEL MOBILE/SAVERIO LOMBARDI VALLAURI
The Salone del Mobile.Milano returns for its 57th edition from 17 April to 22 April 2018. The event hosts over 2,000 exhibitors and offers a comprehensive programme that showcases the best of design and furnishing from Italy and the world. The International Furnishing Accessories Exhibition, which covers the three categories of Classic, Design and xLux, runs alongside the Salone del Mobile.Milano, as do the biennial events: kitchen-focused EuroCucina with FTK and
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
Milano Via San Pietro all’Orto 11, Via Belfiore 6
Samsonite.com
Samsonite is a registered trademark of Samsonite IP Holdings S.àR.L. ©2018 Samsonite IP Holdings S.àR.L All rights reserved.
#VERYPERSONALACCESSORIES
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SUMMER BLOOMS Milan-born Luisa Beccaria, who began designing in the 1980s, creates ready-to-wear and bespoke garments that radiate femininity. Soft, flattering silhouettes that cinch in waistlines and floral silk mixed with embroidered tulle are the main components of her spring/summer 2018 range. The collection features pastel floral, butterfly and dragonfly motifs. Look out for an exclusive capsule collection in collaboration with Italian footwear brand Racine Carrée that features lace ankle boots, mules and spike-heel sandals. rre Luisa Beccaria, Via Formentini 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 801417, luisabeccaria.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 118
To mark its 50th anniversary, Pomellato recently launched the Iconica collection. Spanning rings, pendants and bracelets, the collection revisits the brand’s signature designs, particularly the band ring and the chain. Band rings in rose and white gold are available in three widths, set with diamonds in star, raindrop and navette shapes. Pendants feature adjustable chains, while bracelets can be connected to form a necklace. These versatile Iconica pieces can be worn together, stacked or layered, as well as on their own. Hand-made in Milan, Pomellato’s latest charming designs are a celebration of the jewellery brand’s successful history. grc Pomellato, Via Montenapoleone 17, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 4530, pomellato.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 110
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
PHOTO: (RIGHT) INDIGITALIMAGES.COM
PERFECTLY POMELLATO
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MONCLER COMES HOME Moncler’s new boutique on the fashionable Via Montenapoleone shopping street brings the Italian outerwear label back to its original home in Milan. The store, which occupies four floors, is, fittingly, the brand’s largest, given Moncler’s close relationship with the city. Designed by French studio Gilles & Boissier, which created Moncler’s signature style, the interior reflects the aesthetic of Moncler boutiques across the world, with distinctive extra details inspired by Milan’s rich architecture of the 1930s and 40s. While the interior design features sophisticated elements such as risseu stonework, wood panelling, leather and marble, the garments are the real stars – this is a perfect place to discover Moncler’s diverse collections, which are equally appropriate for city and outdoor wear. fm Moncler, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7634 1316, moncler.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 110
Enhance your trip to Milan with city tour specialist Zani Viaggi, which offers coach trips that take in the best of Milan’s culture, art and fashion, as well as shopping tours to some of Italy’s finest outlets. Services run from the city centre to shopping villages which showcase designer brands at discount prices. Destinations include Serravalle Designer Outlet, the largest outlet in Europe; Il Centro; Franciacorta Outlet Village; Scalo Milano; and Vicolungo The Style Outlets. Zani Viaggi can also take you across the border into Switzerland, to the FoxTown stores. Wherever you decide to go, Zani Viaggi will ensure you travel in style. sm Zani Viaggi, Milan Visitor Center, Largo Cairoli 18 (city centre) and Milano Centrale station, Ground Level, 20100 Milan, +39 02 867131, zaniviaggi.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 114
Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
PHOTOS: (LEFT) AGOSTINO OSIO; (RIGHT) ANDREA OFFREDI
TOP TOURS
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SHOP TAX FREE ON THE MOVE This season’s ultimate travel companion is the new and improved SHOP TAX FREE app. Our city maps will take you to the best Tax Free Shopping destinations in Milan, including the world’s leading brands and high-street names. After your shopping day is over, use the app to find nearby city centre Refund Offices. Don’t miss a visit to our new VIP Lounge on Via Santo Spirito. Enjoy faster, easier Tax Free Shopping using the app’s built-in SHOP TAX FREE Card. Once your passport details are stored, your Tax Free Forms can be autofilled with one click. As you shop, keep track of your tax free savings using the handy refund tracker with real-time status updates. The SHOP TAX FREE app is available in English, Chinese and Russian; download it free from Google Play or the App Store. rp
BEAUTY HUB Beauty connoisseurs need look no further than Estée Lauder’s recently opened European flagship on Via Dante, in the heart of Milan’s luxurious shopping district. The meticulously designed store is equipped with all the latest technology. This sophisticated boutique offers a wide range of services, with expert beauty consultants on hand to give advice. Visitors can find the perfect foundation match, try a beauty mask, have their eyebrows styled, and shop the full range of Estée Lauder products, including the extra-luxurious Re-Nutriv collection and the brand’s Aerin fragrances. js Estée Lauder, Via Dante 7, 20121 Milan, esteelauder.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 114 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
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POCKET POWER Leading electronics company Bose has released its smallest portable speaker yet, the SoundLink® Micro Bluetooth®, or Micro for short (€119.95). Measuring 9.83cm square and 3.48cm deep, weighing only 0.29kg, the tiny size of this aptly named speaker belies its clear sound. Use it to listen to music, to take and make calls, or to access Siri and Google Assistant. It’s waterproof and durable, it fits in the palm of your hand and it comes with a handy strap that can be fixed to anything from your briefcase to your bicycle. The Micro is also sleek and stylish, and available in classic black, midnight blue and bright orange. Ideal for frequent travellers, this is a must-buy for techies and music lovers alike. hl Bose, Via San Pietro all’Orto 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0535, bose.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 103
QUALITY TIME Swiss watchmaker Hublot is the latest brand to join the prestigious Pisa Orologeria, Milan’s premier watch emporium. The ground-floor space in Pisa Orologeria, Hublot’s first boutique in Milan, features sleek, contemporary design inspired by the brand’s New York flagship and the bold, modern designs it creates. Hublot is best known for its world-famous Big Bang and Fusion ranges – cutting-edge designs are at the heart of the brand’s DNA and can now be found in the heart of Milan. lt Hublot at Pisa Orologeria, Via Verri 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 762081, hublot.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 108 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
IN STORE: KRIZIA
‘K
rizia is part of Italian cultural and fashion history, a maison with a great past,’ says Antonio D’Anna, head of design for Krizia. ‘I have always admired the work of Ms Mandelli, founder of the brand, a woman with an incredible modern vision of fashion.’ With two seasons already under his belt, the young designer, who previously worked at MSGM, is rejuvenating the heritage brand to appeal to the modern consumer. His youthful vitality and love of fabrics now sing out through Krizia pieces. Spring/summer 2018 saw a cheerful, colourful collection sent down the catwalk, with asymmetric cuts and oversized details reigning supreme. The original codes of the house were not forgotten, however, with quirky animal motifs and Krizia’s iconic pleated styles making more than one appearance. In fact, D’Anna’s two focuses for the season have been ‘knitwear and icon plissé styles – that’s what visitors to the store should look out for.’ It’s not just Krizia clothing that looks set to sell out. The label’s accessories collection boasts shining stars in the form of statement earrings and modern mules that are perfect for everyday wear. ‘Krizia clothes and accessories are at the same time contemporary and with a great heritage,’ D’Anna says. For spring/summer 2018 Krizia has also experimented with swimwear, expanding the lifestyle credentials of the brand and hinting at a vision of expansion.
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The flagship boutique on Milan’s Via della Spiga is a minimalist haven. It stands among some of the most prestigious stores in the city, conveniently sited at the heart of the shopping district. Designed by renowned Italian architect Vincenzo De Cotiis, the interiors feature geometric lines and a neutral palette of gold, cream and black. Slate, marble and gleaming golden touches run throughout; the airy, spacious ground floor gives way to a lowerground space offering accessories and much more. The modern design of the boutique is no coincidence, according to D’Anna – the store’s reopening in 2014, he says, coincided with the brand taking its new direction. A fresh store and a new model for the future mean Krizia looks set to go from strength to strength. ‘Simona Clemenza, the Krizia CEO, and I are working together to make the brand grow,’ D’Anna remarks. ‘I am currently working on my third collection.’ The overall creative direction, he adds, lies with Zhu Chongyun, the creative director and owner of Krizia, who acquired the brand in 2014. With the perfect blend of heritage Italian and forward-thinking design ready for spring/ summer 2018, there’s never been a better time to discover this revitalised classic label. Krizia, Via della Spiga 23, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4537 7030, krizia.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 111
PHOTO: PIERO BIASION
Founded in 1954 by Mariuccia Mandelli, Krizia has been a well-known name on the Italian fashion scene for nearly seven decades; its black and white prints have become iconic and its whimsical motifs were the epitome of chic in the 1990s. With a new head designer at the helm and an elegant Milan flagship, the brand is redefining itself for the 21st century. Head designer Antonio D’Anna tells Lucinda Turner about the brand’s history and its exciting future
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WHAT’S IN STORE
Krizia earrings, €180
Krizia shoes, €1,415
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TURN BACK TIME
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This season’s catwalks saw Italy’s leading labels embracing the best of 1990s style, as Beth Druce reports
Above: Versace spring/summer 2018 catwalk show finale featuring supermodels Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Helena Christensen
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‘T
PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM
hat turn-of-the-millennium feeling is back in fashion,’ wrote Sarah Mower on Vogue.com, reporting on the Max Mara collection for spring/summer 2018. The fashion critic was commenting on the 1990s overtones in the collection; the streamlined trouser suits with straight, cropped legs and iridescent fabrics, like that iconic Liza Bruce slip dress worn by Kate Moss in 1993. Bare seams also featured heavily, there was not a bead, button or bauble in sight, while bodysuits and slim, racer-back vests were tucked into flowing maxiskirts. Many of the designs were executed in camel, the neutral tone that the label made so much of during that era. Ultimately, it was about the clean lines and simple silhouettes that epitomised the house two decades ago. Max Mara wasn’t alone. Across the Milan catwalks designers sought inspiration from the 90s, a decade defined by the sophistication of minimalist luxury and the glamour of the supermodels. And, while fashion is no stranger to the appeal of times gone by, it certainly feels as though the wheel around which industry trends turn moves faster with each season, with barely a generation passing before a style becomes popular again.
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Above (both): Max Mara spring/summer 2018
At Alberta Ferretti, a brand renowned for its delicate, crafted femininity, the designer called time on embellishment and instead embraced a clean, sensual silhouette, showing nostalgia for the luxe minimalism that dominated the catwalk pre-21st century. The show opened with some very sophisticated swimwear in the ‘athleisure’ mode, to use the current buzz term; one-pieces in black or chocolate brown were accessorised with coordinating wide-brimmed sun hats. Eveningwear with an array of glamorous necklines followed; deep plunges, halter-neck jumpsuits and spaghetti-strap dresses with cut-out midriffs. It was a far cry from the embroidered chiffon and delicate beading for which the label is distinguished. ‘I felt this was an important moment to look back at the past and to think about what I want for the present,’ Ferretti noted after the show. For fashion lecturer and broadcaster Oonagh O’Hagan, this acceleration of the Above (both): Alberta Ferretti spring/summer 2018
PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM
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porsche design Timepieces
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trend cycle stems from a common human fascination. ‘It’s probably because we are endlessly interested in the same things; form and function – accentuating or minimising our bodies and forms to express or explain something about ourselves,’ she says. O’Hagan also highlights the way that modern consumerism further compounds this cycle, so the clothing we purchase is less likely to remain fashionable for very long. Alessandro Dell’Acqua is a designer who came of age in the mid-90s. Having lost control of his eponymous label, he launched No 21 in 2010, and over the past eight years it has been finding its place in the fashion matrix as a compelling exploration of femininity. For spring/summer 2018, the designer revisited looks that he first worked with in 1997, from an underwearrevealing sheath slip dress to the very same patterned lace used in Dell’Acqua collections from 20 years ago. Above: No.21 spring/summer 2018
PHOTO: CARLO SCARPATO
The trend cycle is unlikely to slow down, so why not embrace the fast pace of change?
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If Ferretti and Dell’Acqua embraced emblems of late 20th-century fashion, then Donatella Versace went further, using the 20th anniversary of her brother Gianni’s death to pay tribute to the late designer’s legacy. Rather than merely referencing design elements from that era, she drew directly from the house’s archives, showcasing key pieces and prints from the Versace collections of the early 90s. These included trademark baroque prints in confident tones of yellow, gold and sky blue, sweet Princess Diana-style pastel dresses and separates, and boxy black jackets with defiant square shoulders. There were also leggings, leopard prints and the label’s famous gilt jewellery adorning belts, buttons and earrings. The designer didn’t stop there. She also reassembled the supermodels whose careers the brand played such a key part in engineering. Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Helena Christensen and Carla Bruni reenacted an iconic moment in history when they flanked Versace herself for the collection finale, dressed in gold chainmail. What of the future? Is the appetite for reviving history a passing fad, or something we should get used to? As O’Hagan points out, ‘It’s quicker to make and deliver new items than ever before, and we know about collections quicker than before, due to social media.’ The trend cycle is unlikely to slow down any time soon. But if that means a sleek, sophisticated wardrobe characterised by luxe minimalism, then why not embrace the fast pace of change? Above (both): Versace spring/summer 2018
PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM
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Above: Geranium collection by Missoni Home
Art at the Heart of the Home Two of Italy’s four top interiors brands have developed from fashion labels; two evolved from inspirational homeware. All share a flair for flamboyance and topquality craftsmanship, as Rebecca Rhys-Evans discovers
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Since his death in 1988, his son, Barnaba, has continued the family business and has maintained in-house production, which is an essential element of Italian craft culture. The brand’s most renowned motif is the face of Lina Cavalieri, an opera singer of the early 1900s who was celebrated for her beauty and charisma. In 1952 Fornasetti saw her face in a magazine and was mesmerised. He went on to use her image in striking designs across a number of products. A clown, a thief and an Arabian princess are some of the many interpretations of Lina Cavalieri that Fornasetti conjured on his
PHOTO: (TOP) COURTESY OF FORNASETTI
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talian style is not only centred on fashion; the nation’s interior designers and homeware producers are admired the world over. Part of their cachet lies in the way they celebrate the country’s heritage of skilled craftsmanship and in their use of exquisite materials. While popular design trends from Scandinavia and Japan are shaped by an innate sense of practicality, Italian interior design is based on altogether different and far more flamboyant aesthetics. Beautiful hand-painted ceramics and sumptuous silk cushions are inherent features, and Italians are never ones to shy away from colour or print. While some luxury homeware brands developed from the creation of individual pieces, others established a reputation in the world of fashion and then branched into interior design. Piero Fornasetti remains one of the most famous Italian creatives of the 20th century. A Milanese painter, sculptor and interior decorator, he was famed for his humorous and eclectic style, and he is credited with creating about 11,000 products. His name has become synonymous with Italian interior design.
Above (clockwise from top): Barnaba Fornasetti; Fornasetti wall plate featuring Lina Cavalieri’s face; the brand’s l’Eclaireuse candle
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Products devised by Italian design houses offer remarkable craftsmanship standards
famous porcelain pieces. Today, the house also produces rugs, lights, wallpaper, fabrics, tiles, jewellery, silk scarves, home fragrances and much more. Alessi had a more pragmatic start. It was founded by Giovanni Alessi in 1921 as a manufacturer of small copper, brass and silver household goods. The brand’s turning point into a company producing chic yet practical items came in the 1950s when Giovanni’s son Carlo took over the family business. Trained as an industrial designer, he began collaborating with external designers and architects, producing a range of products for hotels as well as individuals. Richard Sapper’s 1978 espresso maker was a particular triumph, as was Philippe Starck’s 1980s lemon squeezer, Juicy Salif. Compared to its contemporaries, Alessi offered a very different kind of design for the home, fulfilling functional requirements while offering painstaking craftsmanship. Today, Alessi is not only Italy’s go-to brand for kitchenware; with a great selection of items such as clocks and lamps, it is also making waves as an international label for furnishings. Above (clockwise from top left): Alessi Raggiante wall clock; 9090 espresso coffee maker by Richard Sapper for Alessi; one of the brand’s craftsmen at work
Some of Italy’s most renowned catwalk brands have expanded into homeware. One of the most notable is Missoni. Now run by the third generation of the founding family, the house emphasises the significance of family not only in its business but also in its designs. Rosita Missoni, who co-founded the label in 1953 with her husband Ottavio, believes the home should be a welcoming space that offers an adaptable work/play balance. ‘Furnishing my way means creating a habitat that’s ordered yet informal, versatile and welcoming,’ she says. ‘My home is always open to encounters or people just passing through, the family’s comings and goings, and for when friends unexpectedly drop in.’ Born Rosita Jelmini, she has had strong links with fabric manufacturing all her life. The Jelminis own one half of T&J Vestor, the textile maker. In 1983 the company was the natural partner for Missoni when the interiors line Missoni Home was launched. Missoni Home features the same colourful zigzag designs that made the original brand famous in the 1960s and remain its signature today. The gradient rainbows can be found on an array of accessories, furniture and bedding. One of the first Italian labels to Above (from top): Rose Garden collection; Springtime collection, both Missoni Home
PHOTOS: MAX ZAMBELLI
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make the transition from catwalk to couch, Missoni has proved that fashion for the home is as important as it is for the wardrobe. Today the company is one of Italy’s most successful interiors brands. Gucci is another prominent Italian fashion brand to develop a homeware section. Unlike Missoni, with its long history of home design, Gucci took this step just last year, under creative director Alessandro Michele. As with his clothing designs, Michele encourages clients to customise pieces to their individual taste. As he puts it, he wants his designs to add a touch of ‘Gucci’s contemporary romanticism into the home’. The Gucci Décor collection features motifs developed for the brand by Michele, such as bees, tigers, moths and snakes which are hand-printed on porcelain, candles, French screens, silk wallpapers and more, or embroidered on cushions. Gucci, Missoni, Alessi and Fornasetti are four very different brands, yet they have a common attribute in an integral commitment to quality. Whether you’re looking for kitchen items or an octopus-print French screen, there’s a remarkable standard of craftsmanship when a product is devised by an Italian design house Above (all): Gucci Décor collection
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TRU STYLE Italian lifestyle label Trussardi has been perfecting Milanese style for over a century. Hannah Lewis discovers the secrets behind the success of this family company
Above: Gaia and Tomaso Trussardi
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n 1911, in the picturesque town of Bergamo, northeast of Milan, Dante Trussardi established a small business making luxurious leather gloves. His skill was soon recognised, and before long he was furnishing the hands of such estimable clients as the British royal family. Over a century later, Trussardi has massively expanded its offerings. Now a fully-fledged lifestyle brand, Trussardi is a household name with boutiques across the world. Yet, while much has changed, the brand remains in the hands of the Trussardi family, who together are committed to moving forward without losing sight of Dante Trussardi’s founding principles of Italian excellence and style. Nicola Trussardi, who took the reins of the company in the 1960s, shared his grandfather’s understanding of great craftsmanship and lasting style. ‘The most important things I’ve learned have been in Italy, making the rounds of workshops with my grandfather Dante,’ he explained. He also had an eye for trends and an appreciation of the customer’s developing needs. Under
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Above (from top): Gita bags; laptop cases with aeroplane print, both Trussardi spring/summer 2018; the brand’s Milan flagship
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his direction, Trussardi rapidly expanded its product offering, introducing suitcases, handbags, homeware and more, without ever compromising on quality. In 1973 Nicola Trussardi introduced the brand’s greyhound logo across all products: today it is one of the most recognisable icons in Italian fashion. A ready-to-wear line was launched in the 1980s to quick success. Trussardi was applauded not only for its fashion-forward Italian aesthetic, but also for its unique approach to fashion shows. It was the first brand to open its catwalk presentations to the public, choosing Milan’s Piazza del Duomo as its location in 1984, and later the city’s central station and the Palazzo della Borsa. Under Nicola Trussardi’s leadership, a number of collaborations also developed the brand’s reach and reputation. Projects in conjunction with big brands, including Garelli motorcycles and Coca-Cola, cemented Trussardi’s position as an all-round lifestyle brand, and a forwardthinking one at that. Today, the brand is in the hands of the fourth generation of the family, under CEO Tomaso Trussardi and his sister Gaia Trussardi, who is creative director. Together, they maintain the tradition of excellence while keeping their sights set firmly on the future. ‘Trussardi has always been a brand of breadth, with a desirability and a clear identity,’ says Gaia Trussardi. ‘My goal is to renew the brand, while respecting that heritage, and remaining modern, contemporary and forward-looking.’ Tomaso Trussardi also understands the important balance between traditional values and a contemporary spirit. As CEO, he has been instrumental in reorganising the brand to better reflect its modern clients, and in expanding its portfolio even further – notably with the launch of the Café Trussardi and Il Ristorante Trussardi concepts. These high-end eateries were first introduced at the label’s flagship in Milan, and 2018 will see further cafés opening worldwide. Such expansion is only possible because the company has such a strong sense of identity. ‘Trussardi is a family-owned and family-run business and our approach is deeply influenced by our family Above: a catwalk look from Trussardi’s spring/summer 2018 collection
The Trussardi brand reflects its heritage but is also future-focused
orientation,’ explains the CEO. ‘Our leather-crafting expertise comes from our story and gives the brand its soul, as we are putting traditional techniques in the service of contemporary design.’ Fashion remains at the heart of Trussardi, and for spring/summer 2018 the brand was inspired, in Tomaso Trussardi’s words, by ‘the Italian aptitude for travel that reveals an elegance that never changes, whatever the latitude. That longing for adventure and the need to explore, understand and learn.’ For women, silhouettes are loose but cinched at the waist. Billowing silks and organzas Above (clockwise from left): a catwalk look from Trussardi’s spring/summer 2018 collection; Il Ristorante Trussardi Alla Scala; Café Trussardi
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) © ZAMARIO/MARIO ZANARIA
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The Trussardi family has big plans for the future are held in place by drawstrings, straps and belts that nod to planes and parachutes. Pioneering travellers such as Amelia Earhart were a key inspiration, particularly evident in modern interpretations of pilot jumpsuits. Similar aeronautical themes are apparent in the men’s collection, with jumpsuits and jackets featuring subtle epaulettes, drawstrings and metal studs once more evoking parachutes, and T-shirts and sweaters printed with aerial photographs. Of course, leather features heavily. Men will find it in classic caramel-coloured trench coats, and also in rich navy jumpsuits, or straight-leg trousers with sporty stripes at Above (both): Trussardi spring/summer 2018 menswear collection
the side. Women can choose from jackets in a variety of colours and shapes, but for something standout should look to floral dresses overlaid with panels of soft leather. The Gita handbag is another key buy of the season. Made with butter-soft leather and available in a range of stylish colours, it’s the perfect size to carry when exploring a new place. No wonder the name translates into English as ‘trip’. The Trussardi customer, says Tomaso Trussardi, is ‘always on the move, both physically and mentally.’ The same could be said for the business itself. And while the founding family has big plans for the future, this is a brand with a strength of identity that ensures it will stay true to its 107 years of heritage. As Tomaso Trussardi explains: ‘Our pillars are the base from which we are building our future. Trussardi is a contemporary Italian lifestyle brand crafted from leather, traditionally made, uniquely Milanese and instantly iconic.’
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TABLE TALK Milan, one of the most fashionable and artistic cities in the world, is also a centre of culinary creativity. Ruairidh Pritchard picks some of the best of its wealth of Michelin-starred restaurants
Milan, rich in fashion, art and culture, is one of the world’s most exciting and expressive cities. It is perhaps thus no surprise that it also offers a dynamic culinary scene, with a roster of world-class eateries dotted around the city. One of the highest accolades such restaurants can achieve is a coveted Michelin star rating, recognised around the world as an indicator of excellence. Milan is home to a wide variety of establishments that have made the grade, offering a choice that will delight even the most discerning gourmets. Here we’ve picked four of the best restaurants that shouldn’t be missed during a trip to Milan, each serving its own contemporary take on classic Italian food. globalblue.com
PHOTO: MATTIASANTINI.COM
TOKUYOSHI The philosophy behind Yoji Tokuyoshi’s eponymous restaurant is simple; to respect his ingredients and to pay tribute to his own Japanese culture and the Italian culinary culture in which he was trained. The result is one of the city’s most innovative eateries, which gained a Michelin star within months of opening in 2015. There are two tasting menus – one of six courses, offering dishes each inspired by a different colour, and the surprise omakase menu, designed to fully represent the restaurant’s concept. These are served alongside a comprehensive à la carte menu and the inspired Italy Meets Japan selection. Dishes on the latter menu range from a traditional aubergine, tomato and parmesan tartlet to an experimental pizza broth that promises the taste of the classic pizza, eaten with a spoon. Whichever menu you choose, a meal at Tokuyoshi is guaranteed to be one to remember. Tokuyoshi, Via San Calocero 3, 20123 Milan, +39 02 8425 4626, ristorantetokuyoshi.com
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RISTORANTE BERTON
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) © MARCO SCARPA
When Andrea Berton opened his eponymous restaurant in 2013, it was awarded a Michelin star in less than a year. Berton has over 30 years’ experience of some of the best kitchens in the world. His wealth of knowledge of Italian cuisine and ingredients has resulted in Ristorante Berton becoming one of the most respected gastronomic institutions in Milan. Housed in a soaring glass tower in the central financial district of Porta Nuova Varesine, the restaurant’s contemporary, minimalist design matches the beautiful simplicity of its dishes. Menus are designed to make the most of fresh, locally sourced ingredients, with a strong focus on flavour and texture. The 10-course tasting menu, for example, features crispy suckling pig with pear, mustard, roasted leek and coffee sauce; other flavourful plates include caviar with liquorice and lemon. Ristorante Berton’s wine list is widely regarded as one of the best curated in Milan, with expert pairings for each of its gastronomic triumphs. Ristorante Berton, Via Mike Bongiorno 13, 20124 Milan, +39 02 6707 5801, ristoranteberton.com
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D’O D’O has been leading the Milanese culinary scene for 15 years, earning its Michelin star a year after opening in 2003 and proving that quality food that sometimes verges on the experimental needn’t cost a fortune. D’O is in Cornaredo, to the northwest of Milan. While it is slightly off the beaten track, it is well worth seeking out, as one of the region’s best-quality restaurants. The affordable menu follows head chef Davide Oldani’s ‘pop cuisine’ philosophy of accessible fine dining, and consistently delights local foodies and visitors alike with its contemporary twists on traditional Italian dishes. D’O, Piazza della Chiesa 14, 20010 San Pietro all’Olmo, Cornaredo, Milan, +39 02 936 2209, cucinapop.do
PHOTOS: (TOP) SERGIO COIMBRA; (BOTTOM) © AUREA SRL 2017/LUME
LUME Even for those whose Italian language skills are basic, upon entering Lume the translation becomes clear. The name is the Italian word for light, reflecting the bright, white space – a former porcelain factory, beautifully redesigned by architect Monica Melotti, which is the perfect backdrop to encourage a focus on the food. The restaurant opened in June 2016, and was awarded a Michelin star a mere five months later. Lume’s kitchen in the middle of the restaurant is partly hidden in a lace-like box structure where, under the leadership of executive chef Luigi Taglienti,
the staff create what is described as a ‘holistic dining experience’. Menus combine classic and contemporary cuisine, and dishes pay homage to Milan’s gastronomic culture – examples include Milanese-style veal with salt-baked Jerusalem artichokes, seafood salad and black truffle. For those seeking an al fresco dining experience, the restaurant opened Orto di Lume, an outside dining area, last year, making it the perfect place to spend an Italian summer evening. Lume, Via Giacomo Watt 37, 20143 Milan, +39 02 8088 8624, lumemilano.com
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RELAXING RETREATS The world’s finest hotels boast desirable locations and interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail. A select few are also home to the world’s most luxurious spas. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best
ROYAL MANSOUR MARRAKECH The Royal Mansour Marrakech is more akin to a grand palace or an ancient medina than a hotel, with 53 individually furnished luxury riads – traditional Moroccan houses centered around a central courtyard. In additional to luxurious bedrooms and bathrooms, each riad has its own sitting room and roof terrace, and the larger ones have a plunge pool and a designated butler. The result is a vast estate that perfectly reflects the traditions of Morocco’s artisanal culture and colourful architecture. Guests enter the world-class spa through a triple-height atrium of white wrought iron, an oasis of calm flooded with light. The spa houses two hammam Turkish baths, a watsu aquatic therapy pool, a tea salon and a relaxation area on the first floor and offers massages, beauty treatments, facials and hydrotherapy in private suites across its further two floors. The swimming pool, with an orangery-style glass roof, opens onto pristine gardens, while the state-of-the-art fitness centre is concealed on a lower floor. Each of the spa’s treatments begins with a personalised consultation, and uses some of the world’s finest products, ensuring a luxurious relaxation experience from start to finish. Royal Mansour Marrakech, rue Abou Abbas El Sebti, 40 000 Marrakech, +212 (0)5 2980 8080, royalmansour.com globalblue.com
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Located between the peaceful Adlisberg forest and the bustling city of Zürich, the Dolder Grand, as the name suggests, is one of Switzerland’s grandest retreats. With 175 luxurious rooms and suites, a restaurant with two Michelin stars and an extensive spa, the hotel offers guests the perfect environment in which to indulge and relax. The 4,000-square-metre Dolder Grand Spa is the jewel in the hotel’s crown. Its indoor swimming pool overlooks the hotel’s beautiful surroundings and the spa also offers outdoor whirlpools, a steam bath and separate ladies’ and gentlemen’s spas with a unique range of treatments designed to inspire rest and improve wellbeing. With programmes designed around relaxation, beauty, vitality and detoxification, the spa’s treatment rooms offer a wide selection of therapies, from facials and manicures to wellness treatments that focus on areas such as anti-ageing, dermatology and laser medicine. The spa’s fitness coaches and personal trainers are on hand for help with workouts on the fitness room’s cardiovascular machines, or on jogs and hikes along the nearby nature trails, where guests can appreciate the stunning surroundings of this world-class retreat. globalblue.com
The Dolder Grand, Kurhausstrasse 65, 8032 Zürich, +41 (0)44 456 6000, thedoldergrand.com
PHOTOS: PETERHEBEISEN
THE DOLDER GRAND
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SANKARA HOTEL & SPA YAKUSHIMA Sankara Hotel and Spa on the coast of the southern island of Yakushima, a Unesco World Heritage site, is one of Japan’s most relaxing luxury retreats. Nature is the main focus here. The island is covered with rainforest and guests can discover the wilderness on guided hikes. The Sankara Sana spa brings nature indoors – the first luxury spa to be endorsed by the Asia Herb Association, it features herbal treatments using locally grown plants. For the utmost in luxurious relaxation, consider the twohour Sana-being Signature Session, which comprises a therapist consultation, followed by specially tailored body, facial and detoxifying thalassotherapy treatments – designed to ensure the body and mind are both taken care of. After indulging at the spa, guests can choose between the hotel’s two gourmet restaurants. Ayana offers delicious, simple regional dishes which incorporate local delicacies, and Okas serves French cuisine that also draws on ingredients sourced on Yakushima, ensuring the spirit of the island is felt in all aspects of the resort. Sankara Hotel & Spa Yakushima, 553 Haginoue, Mugio, Yakushima-cho, Kumage-gun, Kagoshima 891-4402, +81 (0)9 9747 3488, sankarahotel-spa.com
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Milan with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations. Discover one of Italy’s most luxurious jewellers and enjoy the view from the top of the Duomo cathedral (pictured), which took nearly six centuries to complete. Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/milan.
PHOTO: © GINGER ROSE CLARK
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SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY ‘Home to the world’s best luxury Italian and international brands, Milan is an exciting and inspiring place to shop. Combine top boutiques with an irresistible gourmet scene and classic architecture and you have a fantastic city-break destination’
Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopmagazine_. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!
globalblue.com
PHOTOS: GINGER ROSE CLARK; MARINA NELSON; EMILY SCRIVENER; LUCINDA TURNER
– EMILY SCRIVENER, GLOBAL BLUE’S ASSOCIATE ONLINE EDITOR
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Patrizia Pepe Footwear designer Patrizia Pepe’s eponymous label is one of the go-to brands for contemporary high heels among the Italian fashion crowd. Patrizia Pepe, Via Alessandro Manzoni 38, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 4477,
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Krizia Italian label Krizia, which has a new head designer, is making heads turn this season. Its elegant Milan store is definitely not to be missed. Krizia, Via della Spiga 23, 20121 Milan, +39 02 4537 7030,
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dolcegabbana.com
Pisa Orologeria The home of luxury watches in Milan, this boutique is the perfect place to find a new timepiece this season. Pisa Orologeria, Via Verri 7, 20121 Milan, +39 02 762081,
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Dolce & Gabbana The Via della Spiga store of Dolce & Gabbana, one of Italy’s most iconic designer brands, is filled with pieces you will want to take home. Dolce & Gabbana, Via della Spiga 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 1155,
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SHOP HIGHLIGHTS
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VIA F
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100 | M I L A N G U I D E
CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE II AREA Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Via San Pietro all’Orto & Via Torino
Piazza della Scala
VI AC LE
Piazza della Scala
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TRUSSARDI ●
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VI
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Piazza Del Duomo
MONDADORI ●
VI
BENETTON ●
GO
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OYSHO ● ● INTIMISSIMI ● VICTORIA'S SECRET ● CALZEDONIA Piazza Pio XI ● NARA CAMICIE ● CAMPER MM ● ● OROLOGERIA LUIGI VERGA NAU ● ● GEOX BOTTEGA VERDE ● ● FOOT LOCKER SWEET WAY ● ● DESIGUAL MAC ● ● MANGO BOUTIQUE DEL GIOIELLO ● VIA G AE TANO GIAR DIN O TRE ESSE SPORT ● ● MCS ● NIKE STORE ● BATH & BODY WORKS AW LAB ● MUJI ● ● VERGELIO PANDORA ● ● CARPISA PULL & BEAR ● ● KIKO SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ● ● KEY BE KIEHL'S ● O ● PIMKIE N GUESS ● R I ● ACCESSORIZE A TO ● YAMAMAY G TEZENIS ● A ● MARCO ZA I N TALLY WEIJL ● V ● OTTICA BARELLO GO DIXIE ● ● TERRANOVA O I
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Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Metro
Café
Bar
Restaurant
Featured In This Issue
VI A U GO FOSCOLO
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TIFFANY & CO ●
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Ristorante Biffi
GALLERIA VITTORIO EM ANUELE II
CURRADO ● GRIMOLDI ● RUGGERI ● LA FARMACIA CARLO ERBA ●
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TOD’S ● SWAROVSKI ● VERSACE ●
Ristorante Savini
V I A TO M M A S O G R O SS
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● BRIC’S IA S. ● GUCCI RA ● GIORGIO ARMANI DE GO ● LOUIS VUITTON
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Ristorante Ristorante Il Salotto Galleria DANTE CORDUSIO V
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COMUNE DI MILANO URBAN CENTRE ● RIZZOLI ● ANDREW'S TIES ●
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Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Via San Pietro all’Orto & Via Torino
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INTIMISSIMI ● CELIO ● TISSOT ●
V I A PAT TA
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VIA SANTA TECLA
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BABILA Piazza San Babila Piazza San Carlo
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Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Place Of Interest
Department Store
Gelateria
Featured In This Issue
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● PRONOVIAS SAMSONITE ● MAURO LEONE ● ● SOUL LIGHT DESIGN CONTIGO ● ● SUPERGA P.54 BOSE ● CASHMIRINO ● ● SANDRO FERRONE FOR PETS ONLY ● ● MARCO
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Piazza San Carlo
Piazza San Babila ● SISLEY
SAN
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MARIUCCIA ●
FOOTBALL TEAM ●
DUOMO
● DIMENSIONE DANZA
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VIA
RS
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Piazza Liberty
● ALCOTT-GUTTERIDGE ● CARPISA & OTHER STORIES ● ● FALCONERI INGLOT ● ● INTIMISSIMI MISS SIXTY ● NARA CAMICIE ● FURLA ●
VI A A Cioccolati G N EL Italiani L
CO RS O MATT EO TT I
● CLARKS
VI A DU RINI
● NESPRESSO COLLEZIONE PRIVATA VENEZIA ●
EU
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MASSIMO DUTTI ● GEOX ● ● URBAN OUTFITTERS ● TOUCH & GO ● OYSHO ● LUISA SPAGNOLI KIKO ● SWATCH ● ● MILAN MEGA STORE GOBBI 1842 ● ● MICHAEL KORS MARILENA ● ● PINKO SWAROVSKI ● ● DISNEY ● LIU JO ZARA ● THE HIGHLINE T O MEN ● ● FOOT LOCKER ’OR ALL ● GAP ZARA ● TRO ● ADIDAS . P IE CALZEDONIA ● V. S ● TEZENIS UNITED COLOURS ● PULL & BEAR OF BENETTON ● ● SEPHORA IS ● BERSHKA IS TO F O R IA DE CR ● MANGO G A LL ER ● KIKO ID P.119 MAX MARA ● MAX & CO ● Excelsior PENNYBLACK ● ● MOTIVI I BLUES ● ● WYCON ● YAMAMAY MARELLA ● MARINA RINALDI ● ● CISALFA
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Piazza Meda
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PIAZZA SAN BABILA AREA Piazza San Babila, Corso Matteotti & Via Bigli Corso Venezia & Corso Europa
M ON TE NA PO LE ON E VI
A M ON TE
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IA
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Brian & Barry Building San Babila
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● LIBERO MILANO ● CASSINA
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Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Metro
Department Store
Restaurant
Bar
Featured In This Issue
ITTALA ●
O N FO RT
● SUITSU PPLY ● ICF ● SAN BABILA GIOIEL LI
TRUSSARDI JEANS ● MERITALIA ● STONE FLY ●
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PAUL TAYLOR ●
V FLOS ● LUCE PLAN ●
Piazza San Carlo VODAFONE ●
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● ESCADA ● JUST CAVALLI
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● UNIFOR ● RODO ● MORONI GOMMA
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MAZZOLARI ● TIMBERLAND ● NEGRI FIRENZE ● ALDO BRUÈ ● HARMONT & BLAINE ●
FERUTDIN ZAKIROV ●
DE MATTIA ● PASABAHCE ● PIKENZ ● JECKERSON ● GRAVATI ● SARA GIUNTI ● ALVIERO MARTINI ●
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12 floors of food and fashion
108 | M I L A N G U I D E
MONTENAPOLEONE AREA V
Via Sant’Andrea, Via Pietro Verri & Piazza Meda, Via Gesù, Via Borgospesso & Via Santo Spirito LL
ZO
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WALTER PADOVANI ● ANTIQUARIO ● DAAD DANTONE ANTIQUARIATO BENSI ● ● CARLO TIVIOLI O ● NEIL BARRETT GIOIELLI DI SANTO SPIRITO 13 ● T I SÙ GIORGIO JANEKE ● I R ● DUVETICA GE P GIANVITO ROSSI ● IA S ● DROME BALLIN ● O ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE V T Global Blue Lounge N ● PAROSH S A ● IL BISONTE CHANTECLER ● I A ● N° 21 STELLA V MCCARTNEY ●
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● GALLUCCI ● ALTOMANI & SONS ● GALLERIA SILVA LOUIS MICHAIL ● TOP TIME MUSA ● MONTENAPOLEONE FINE JEWELRY ● MARSOL ● SOLO BLU
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Piazza San Babila
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Place Of Interest
Metro
Global Blue Lounge
Restaurant
Featured In This Issue
time is pisa
the leading retailer for watch lovers
pisa orologeria boutique rolex via montenapoleone 24 milano
pisa orologeria flagship store via verri 7, milano
pisa orologeria boutique hublot via verri 7, milano
www.pisaorologeria.com
pisa orologeria boutique patek philippe via verri 9, milan0
110 | M I L A N G U I D E
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BUCCELLATI Founded in 1919, Buccellati is one of the oldest family-run jewellery houses in Italy. Mario Buccellati opened his first boutique on Largo Santa Margherita in Milan and the organisation subsequently passed to his sons, his grandchildren and his great-granddaughter. Nowadays Buccellati is at the top of the luxury jewellery market and delivers some of the most exquisite designs available, including the Opera Cuff bracelet (pictured, price on request). Inspired by the art and architecture of Italy, from Venetian lace to the works of Botticelli, the brand’s signature intricate gold designs are recognisable across the globe. Buccellati, Via Montenapoleone 23, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2154, buccellati.com Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Café
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Featured In This Issue
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SPIGA & VIA MANZONI AREA Via della Spiga
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LANIFICIO COLOMBO Italian brand Lanificio Colombo is the world’s top producer of cashmere and high quality fibres, and at its flagship store on Milan’s Via della Spiga, visitors can explore its wide selection of luxurious cashmere menswear, womenswear and accessories. For spring/ summer 2018 the label has introduced a range of informal sportswear for men who appreciate luxury quality for even the most athletic endeavours, while the Wind Kate jacket for women, new for this season, marries the luxury comfort of the brand’s popular Kate jacket with the practicality of a windproof microfibre. Lanificio Colombo, Via della Spiga 33, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7975, lanificiocolombo.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 111
ILLY CAFFÈ On a visit to Italy it is imperative to sample some authentic Italian coffee, and there’s no better place than the Illy Caffè on Milan’s Via Montenapoleone. Set in a beautiful, light-filled, glass-covered courtyard, the café is the perfect place to pause during a busy day of shopping. At the coffee bar, guests can choose from Illy’s impressive range of coffee options, or take their pick from the café’s menu of light lunches or evening meals. Inside, a retail corner has a selection of Illy products which would make the perfect souvenir for coffee lovers to take home from their trip to Milan. Illy Caffè, Via Montenapoleone 19, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8354 9386, illy.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 110 globalblue.com
S H O P | 113
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Featured In This Issue
114 | M I L A N G U I D E
DANTE & MAGENTA AREA Corso Magenta
Via Dante
● PETALI CERATINA 1919 ●
ZANI VIAGGI, MILAN VISITOR CENTRE ●
CAIROLI
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LENZUOLISSIMI ● OTTICA VIGEVANO ● D’AUGUSTA GIOIELLI ● AE TA MARCO ● NO NE NASHI ● GR I LIMONI ● VITALI ●
● CURIOSITÀ ESOTERICHE ● EE ERCOLESSI ● BANG & OLUFSEN ● BUSCEMI ● CHICCHE DI CALZE ● L’ETICHETTA ● ALDO GUGLIELMINOTTI ● BOTTEGA ARTIGIANA TIFERNATE ● ABITINO EASY CHIC ● MORTAROTTI
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● ELENA MIRÒ ● CANETTA ● GUESS ● KOCCA ● MUSTO ● WOMO ● FAST WEB ● CESAR IMPERIAL
● KIKO ● TRIUMPH ● CARPISA ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ VI A Piazza ● TIM PO
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Global Blue Retailer
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ZUCCA STREGATA ● COLTELLERIA ● LORENZI MILANO ● PANTONE UNIVERSALE ● CAMICISSIMA GIOIELLERIA ● FALLIVA PANIZZI ● GREAT MASTERS OF TIME ● PELLINI ● M. BARDELLI
CO RS O M AG EN TA
PERLITA ● CASA DEL BIANCO ● MARIONNAUD ● DE NIGRIS ● BOGGI ● RAW ● MATIAS OUTLET ● PERFUME BY CALÈ ● DASSI ● LA PICCOLA GIOIELLERIA ● M.C.M. SANTA MARIA NOVELLA ● ERA L'ORA ●
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● ALDO CITTERIO ● 3 STORE ● GIOIELLERIA FEDELI ● PELLETTERIA RICCARDI ● VODAFONE ● OROLOGERIA AL DUOMO ● SAVINELLI ● LE SCARPE DI PAOLO ● BLU SAND
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PRIMADONNA ● SWAROVSKI ● NAU OTTICA ● Z Z MOLESKINE ● LE R O P LOCKER ● FOOT VI A LO BY LOVABLE ● LUSH ● SIGNORVINO ● OVS ● V
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Non-Global Blue Retailer
Place Of Interest
Featured In This Issue
BOUTIQUE in CORSO MAGENTA 30, MILANO · T +39 02 45 47 10 01 · LOCHERBERMILANO.COM
116 | M I L A N G U I D E
CORSO COMO, GAE AULENTI & BRERA AREA Piazza Gae Aulenti, Corso Como & Corso Garibaldi STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI GARIBALDI FS
LA FELTRINELLI SWATCH ● ● READ EAT DREAM ● AIRNESS
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MARTINO MIDALI Since the 1980s Martino Midali has been synonymous with contemporary Italian style. The designer’s architectural creations, with a strong focus on cuts and prints, have won him fans around the world. At the eight Martino Midali stores in Milan, each reflecting the designer’s much loved minimalist aesthetic, visitors will find a range of ready-to-wear collections in a range of bold colours and eye-catching prints. For the brand’s spring/summer 2018 offering, there’s a strong focus on stripes and floral motifs, alongside beautiful linen scarves and oversized statement necklaces, making the brand a must-visit for those seeking some playful additions to their summer wardrobe. Martino Midali, Via Alessandro Manzoni 16, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 5869, martinomidali.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 113 Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Metro
Train Station
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SELECTED STORES IN STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI: Accessorize Calzedonia Eurobijoux I Foot Locker ER SP La Feltrinelli I TO AT I Lama Optical V Tally Weijl Tezenis
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Place Of Interest
Featured In This Issue
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AGRESTI The luxurious feeling you get when wearing fine watches and jewellery should be matched by a feeling of safety and security regarding those pieces when you’re not wearing them. This is where Italian brand Agresti comes in. The company has over 60 years of experience in creating elegant strongboxes, chests and fine furniture designed to protect all manor of precious items, from watches and jewellery to documents and fine spirits. At the Agresti showroom in Milan, visitors can explore the company’s range of unique products, including the beautiful Lei-Lui Artico armoured jewellery armoire (pictured), ideal for keeping even the most precious pieces safe. Agresti, Via Luigi Rossari 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7200 0637, agresti.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 108
KIKO ID In late 2017 Kiko Milano opened Kiko ID, the beauty brand’s largest store in the world. High ceilings, large windows and a mainly white palette create an ideal environment in which to discover the brand’s products. Sustainability and smart technology are crucial elements of the store’s design. Highlights include a robot designed specifically for the brand and equipped with a touchscreen; it allows visitors to customise Kiko products, such as lipsticks, in order to create the perfect individual shade. The store also boasts a private room with three make-up stations for those seeking a more exclusive setting. Kiko ID, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 10, 20100 Milan, kikocosmetics.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 103
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Proving that Italians even sleep stylishly, underwear and nightwear label Julipet has opened its first flagship store in Milan, on the city’s fashionable Via Verri. The new store is home to the brand’s popular collections of cotton briefs and T-shirts, as well as its collections of classic pyjama sets, nightshirts and robes. Rounding out the luxurious sleepwear is a collection of matching pyjama sets for women and luxurious loungewear in the form of alpaca-blend knitted cardigans, making the store the perfect place to find souvenirs that will ensure a comfortable and stylish night’s sleep. Julipet, Via Pietro Verri 3, 20121 Milan, +39 01 63 853743, julipet.it
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SHOP TAX FREE APP
It’s your world. Shop Tax Free with confidence. The free SHOP TAX FREE app makes tax refunds easier than ever. New features now added: • • • •
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S H O P | 123
OPENING TIMES MondaySunday: 10am-8pm
DAY TRIP
SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET
The biggest designer outlet in Europe, Serravalle Designer Outlet boasts over 240 stores, 11 cafés and restaurants, and guest services including a tax refund and currency office, international payment facilities, and free Wi-Fi.
Serravale Designer Outlet, Via della Moda 1, 15069 Serravalle, +39 0143 609000, mcarthurglen.it/serravalle
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DESIGNER BRANDS FOR 30-70% LESS With over 300 brands to choose from, Serravalle Designer Outlet is the perfect place to indulge in designer fashion. Luxury brands including Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace Chic, trend-led womenswear from Sandro and Lancel The Made in Italy benchmark of quality with Moreschi, Pollini, Casadei and L’Autre Chose Sportswear from top labels New Balance, Vans and Salomon
PHOTO: NICK TURPIN
• • • •
Outlet Village
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Serravalle Designer Outlet
HOW TO GET THERE By car From Milan, take the A7 until you see the exit for Serravalle Scrivia. Take the exit and follow signs for Serravalle Designer Outlet. The journey takes around an hour.
By shuttle bus The popular shuttle bus service takes customers from Milan to Serravalle six times a day.
OPENING TIMES
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DAY TRIP
FRANCIACORTA OUTLET VILLAGE
Come to Franciacorta Outlet Village and discover 160 stores of top international brands and discounts up to 70% all year round. Franciacorta Outlet Village, Piazza Cascina Moie 1, 25050 Rodengo Saiano, +39 030 681 0364, franciacortaoutlet.it
HOW TO GET THERE By car From Milan, take the A4 Milan-Venice motorway (exit Ospitaletto) or take the A35 Bre-Be-Mi (take the final exit) then proceed to junction A4. Your journey will take less than an hour.
By shopping shuttle There is a daily shuttle service from Milan at 10:30am (return journey 6.30pm).
THE WINE & SHOPPING TOUR The Wine & Shopping Tour lets you discover a land full of taste. You might enjoy a guided tour with tasting sessions at one of the Franciacorta wineries – the Village’s shuttle service will take you there. For booking and information, visit the Zani Viaggi office on Milan’s Largo Cairoli. globalblue.com
30 NEW OPENINGS … There is always something new to enjoy at Franciacorta Outlet Village. Fratelli Rossetti, North Sails, Under Armour, Rebel Queen by Liu Jo, RefrigiWear, Patrizia Pepe, Tru Trussardi, Loriblu, Antologia, Martino Midali are just a few of the stores which have opened at the village in the last months. There is a further expansion to look forward to in late 2018.
PHOTO: © 2014 MAURIZIO CAMAGNA
Beautifully situated between Lake Garda and Lake Iseo, and less than an hour from Milan, Franciacorta Outlet Village offers a unique and sparkling shopping experience imbued with the wine and food culture of this extraordinary region, which is the home of the famous Franciacorta DOCG wines.
Monday-Sunday: 10am-8pm June, July and August: Friday and Saturday 10am-9pm
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Malpensa Airport: Terminal 1, Departures check-in, Area 12, second floor Terminal 1, Area A Schengen (after security control), first floor Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp
2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your Tax Free Forms stamped before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices. Spend a minimum of €154.95 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.
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TRANSLATIONS
中文翻译
60: TURN BACK TIME 时光倒流
照片: © GORUNWAY.COM
本季秀场见证 意 大 利一 线品牌再 现 二十 世纪九十 年 代 风 格之 辉煌，Beth Druce 报道 “那种千禧 将至的感觉 又回到时尚界了。” Sarah Mower在为Vogue. com网站 撰 写的2018年春夏季 Max Mara风尚报 道中写道。这位时尚 评论家说 的是该系列隐 约可见的二十 世 纪九十 年 代气 质；以 直筒七分裤 和闪亮 顺 滑的面 料 打造 的流 线 型裤 装，让 人 想起1993年 Kate Moss穿过的那 款 著名的Liza Bruce吊带 裙。毫 无 遮 掩 的缝合处 理同样 是一大特色，珠 饰、纽扣或 各种花哨 的 装饰统 统不见，紧身 连体 衣 和修 长的背带式背 心则搭配 飘 逸 的及 踝长裙。许 多 作品都是 驼 棕 色的 — —在 那 个 年 代，Max Mara的绝 大多 数作 品都 不外 乎这 类中性色调。总而 言之，秀 场上 最 显而易见的便是二十 年 前该品牌引以为代 表 的干净线 条和简约廓形。 Max Mara并非一家独 行。纵贯米 兰各大秀
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场，设 计师们 纷 纷从九十 年 代中寻求灵感，那是 一 个被低调 奢华 的精 致 风 格与超 级模 特的超 凡 魅力所定义的十 年。此 外，虽然 时尚界 经常从 逝去时代的不朽魅力中收 获 启发，但有一 种感 受 是确 切无疑的：业界趋势的 轮回来得一季 快 过一季，一 个时代 都还 未 过去，某 种风 格 便再 次 成 为流行，卷土 重 来。 Alberta Ferretti是一家以 雅 致秀 美的手工女 装 作品而 著 称的品牌。本 季，该设 计师 不重 繁 杂 装饰，而是 推崇 性感 修身的简洁廓形，借此怀 想 二十 一 世 纪前主导 秀 场的简约与奢 华。Alberta Ferretti大秀以 几 款 精 致非凡的 泳 装 开场，用当下的网络 热词说，走的是“运 动休闲 风（athleisure）”；黑色 或 巧克力 棕色的一 件式 泳 装与宽 边 遮阳帽完美 搭配。随 后登场的晚 礼 服领口设 计格外迷 人，接 着则是 超低 领挂 脖 露 背连 衣 裤 和细 肩带露腰连 衣 裙。秀 场 新 款 迥然 相异于 该品牌 最有名的刺绣雪纺绸 和雅 致 珠 饰。“我 认为这是一 个应该回顾 过往、思 考当下 的重要时刻，” Ferretti在 走秀 结束后 评论 道。 对于时尚讲师、播客Oonagh O’ Hagan而言， 潮流 轮回的 加速要归结于 一 种人类 共 有的痴 迷：“这大概 是因为 我们无休止地 热 衷于相同的 事 物；形式 与功 能 — — 我们 给自己的身体 和外 形 增 增减 减，以 此 来 表 达 或诠 释 我们的某 些想 法，”她如是说 道。O’ Hagan还 强调 称，现代消费
上图：范思哲2018年春夏大秀以超模出场收尾，从左至右分别为Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford和 Helena Christensen
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主义的大行其道 进一 步加快了潮流的 轮回，因 此我们购买的服 装不如从前那么经 久耐 穿了。 Alessandro Dell’Acqua是一 位闻名于 90年 代 中期的设 计师。失 去了对同名品牌的掌控之后， 他于2010年创立了 No 21；七年过去了，No 21一 直 在 女 装领域 不懈 探索，试图在时尚矩阵 之中 找到属于自己的一席之 地。2018年春夏季，从 透 视紧身吊带 裙到Dell’Acqua系列20年 前用过的 同款蕾丝花 边，这位设 计师重 新 诠 释了他于 1997年 初 创的造 型。 如果说 Ferretti和Dell’Acqua是再 现了20世 纪 后期的时尚象征，那么Donatella Versace则走得 更 远，她借 哥 哥 Gianni Versace逝 世20周年之 机，向这位已故 设 计师的既 往 成 就 表 达了敬 意。Donatella并未简单地借鉴 那 个 年 代的设 计 元素，而是 直 接 从品牌过往 作品中挑 拣 精 华， 再 次 推出范 哲思90年 代初的主 打作品和经典印 花。这 些 作品包括 黄色、金色 和天 蓝色等明亮 色调的 标 志性巴洛克印 花，造 型甜美的 戴 安 娜 王妃 式 粉 色 连 衣 裙 和上下装，以 及板板 正 正的 黑色 方肩夹克。当然 也 少不了打底 裤 和豹纹印 花，以 及品牌 著名的饰 有镀 金 珠宝的皮带、纽 扣和耳 环。 Donatella Versace并没有止步 于此。她 还 重 新召集了一 众 超模，范 哲思品牌曾对 她们的职 业 生涯 起 到了重要的作用。系列大秀的最后一 幕，Cindy Crawford、Claudia Schiffer、Naomi Campbell、Helena Christensen和Carla Bruni身 着 金色礼裙，分列Donatella Versace的两侧，完美 还 原了历史 上 的经典时刻。 未 来 会怎么样？对历史的重 新演绎 是 昙花 一 现，还是 会 逐渐令 我们习以为 常？正如 O’ Hagan所言：“得 益于社 交 媒 体，创作和呈现 新品比以往 更快 捷了，我们 也比以往 更快 地了解 新 款 系列产品。”在可 预见的未 来，潮流的 轮回 不太可能平 平缓 缓。但 如果这 意 味 着 一 个时尚 而 精 致、低调 而 奢华 的 衣 橱，那又何乐而 不为 呢？
72: ART AT THE HEART OF THE HOME 家居艺术 意 大 利最好的四家室内设 计品牌之中， 有两家是由时装品牌发 展而来，另外两 家则是 从创意家居用品起 家。奢华的风 格和至 臻的手工 技艺是它们的共同 点。Rebecca Rhys-Evans带 您了解 globalblue.cn
意 大 利风 格 并不只 集中体 现 在时尚领域；该国 的室内设 计师 和家居品制造商同样受 到了世界 各地 顾客的青 睐。他们 之 所以备 受赞誉，部 分 原因在于对 意 大 利精湛 手工 技 艺的传承 和坚 持 使 用精品材料的原则。虽然 发源于斯 堪 的纳维 亚半岛和日本 的流行 设 计风 潮 均 深 受由来已久 的实用观 念 之 影响，意 大 利室内设 计 遵 循 的却 是 一 种 截然不同的、极 致 奢 华 的审 美 理 念。精 美 的手绘陶 瓷 和华丽的丝绸 坐 垫自然是 屡见不 鲜，意 大 利人也向来不羞于大 胆 搭配色 彩 与印 花。有些 奢 侈 家居品牌是 靠创作 独 立单品起 家，还有一些则是 先在时尚 世界 创造了口碑，然 后再 涉足 室内设 计 领域。 Piero Fornasetti是20世 纪 最 著名的意 大 利创 意人士之一。作为 一名来自米 兰的画家、雕 刻家 和室内设 计师，他以幽 默 生动、博采众长的风 格而 著 称，据 称他共完 成了约11000件 作品；他 的名字已然成 为了意 大 利室内设 计 的代名词。 自1988年他 与世 长辞 之后，其子Barnaba继 承了 家 族 产业，坚 持自主 生 产，而这 正是 意 大 利手 工 艺 文化的一大 基 本元 素。 该品牌 最 著名的 创作 主 题 当属 Lina Cavalieri的肖像 — —后 者是 一 位20世 纪 初的歌 剧演 唱 家，其 非凡美 貌 与独特魅力常常为人 赞 美。1952年，Fornasetti在一本杂志 上 看到了她 的面 孔，一 眼 便 着了迷。于 是 乎，他 把Cavalieri 的肖像用到了许 多产品身上，创造 出令人惊 叹 的设 计效 果。Fornasetti放飞想象，在他的著名 瓷 器 作品上 对Lina Cavalieri进行了多种 演绎， 例 如小丑、小 偷 和阿拉伯公主。如 今，该品牌还 生 产 地 毯、灯具、墙 纸、织物、瓷 砖、珠 宝、丝 巾和家用香 氛等产品。 Alessi品牌 的起源则 更具 实用主义色 彩。它 由Giovanni Alessi创立于1921年，最初只 生 产小 型的铜、黄铜 和银制家居用品。20世 纪 50年 代，Giovanni之子 Carlo接 管 家 族 产业，将Alessi 转变成 为 一家生 产时尚别 致而又不失实用性能 的单品的公司。作为 一名经 过专业训练的工 业 设 计师，Carlo开始与其他设 计师 及建 筑 师合 作，为 许 多酒店及个人 顾客 生 产各式 各样 的产 品。1978年 与Richard Sapper联 合 创作的浓 缩 咖 啡 机 大 获 成 功，80年 代 与Philippe Starck合作 推 出的 柠 檬 榨汁 器 Juicy Salif亦风 靡 一 时。与同时 代的其他品牌 相比，Alessi为顾客 提 供了一 种 非 常与众不同的家居设 计；它 在 满足功 能需 求的 同时，展现了凝 结匠 人心血 的手工 艺之美。如 今，Alessi不 仅是 意 大 利最炙手可热的厨具品 牌；凭借 时钟 和灯具等形 形色色的 精 选 单品， 作为家居品牌 的它同样 在国际市场引领浪潮。 不少极富盛名的意 大 利时尚大 牌 也 纷 纷涉
照片: COURTESY OF FORNASETTI
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足家居 领域，Missoni便是其中最 值得 注 意的之 一。现由创始家 族 的第三代 执 掌的Missoni十分 注 重 家庭 的 重要意义，这一点不 仅体 现 在品牌 产业 上，亦可见于其设 计之中。于1953年 和丈 夫 Ottavio联 袂 创立品牌 的Rosita Missoni认为，家 应该是 一 个温 馨的空间，能 让 人 随 意平 衡 于工 作 与玩耍之间。“ 按照我的 方 式 布置 房间，那就 意 味 着 创造 一 个井 然 有序而并不正 式、功 能齐 备且氛围温 馨的 栖息 地。”她说 道，“我的家永 远向偶 遇 的或刚 好经 过的路人、来来 去 去的家 人 和不 期 而至的朋友 敞 开大门。”原名为Rosita Jelmini的她，一生都 与织物生 产 有 着密不 可分 的联 系。Jelminis家 族 拥有纺织品制造商 T& J Vestor一半 的产业；1983年，Missoni Home室内 设 计系列正 式 发布，该 公司也自然而然成 为了 Missoni的合作伙伴。 在 Missoni Home系列当中，依然可以 看见熟 悉的彩色 Z字设 计 元 素。上世 纪 60年 代，正是Z 字 型针 织 纹 样 让 Missoni声名鹊起，它至今仍 是 品牌 的一大标 志。在一系列饰品、家具 和床具 用品上，彩 虹色的 斜 条 纹 屡见不鲜。作为 最早 上图: Barnaba Fornasetti
从秀 场 转入客厅的意 大 利品牌 之一，Missoni已 然 证明：无论是 家居 还 是 衣 橱，时尚感 都同样 重要。如 今，该 公司已是 意 大 利最成 功的室内 设 计品牌 之一。 古驰（Gucci）是 另一 家涉足 家居用品的卓 越 意 大 利时尚品牌 。和 在 家居设 计 领 域 深 耕已 久 的 Missoni不一 样，古驰 直 到 去 年才 在 创意 总 监Alessandro Michele的引领 下迈出这一 步。和 服 装设 计 一 样，Michele鼓 励 顾客 根 据 个人 品 位 定制 作品。正 如他 所言，他 希望自己的 设 计能 “ 为屋宇 添 加 一 份古驰 式 的当代 浪 漫 主义 风情 ” 。 Michele为 Gucci Décor系列 创作了许 多图 案，例 如蜜 蜂、老虎、飞 蛾 和 蛇；它们 被手 绘在 瓷 器 、蜡 烛、法 式 屏风 和丝绸 墙 纸 等产品 上， 又 或 绣 在 垫 子上。 古驰、Missoni、Alessi和 Fornasetti是 四家 截 然 不同的品牌，然而它们 都 有 着对 于卓 越 品 质 的 执 着 追求。无 论 您 是在 物 色 厨房用品还 是 印着章鱼 图案 的法 式 屏风，意 大 利设 计品牌 创 作 的产品一定会为 您 呈现 不 可思议 的手工 艺 水 准。
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80: TRU STYLE 真实风格 一个多世纪以来，意 大 利生活方式品牌 Trussardi一直在不断完善米 兰风 格。Hannah Lewis带 您了解这个家 族 企 业的成功秘诀 1911年，在 米 兰 东北部风 景如画的贝加莫镇 ( Bergamo），Dante Trussardi创立了一家制作奢 侈皮革手 套的小 型公司。他的 技 艺很快 得到了 认可，不久之后他 就 开始为英国皇 室等尊贵顾 客的双手服务。百余年过后，Trussardi的经 营 范 围已 远 非昔日可比。作为 一家羽翼丰 满的生活 方 式品牌，Trussardi的大名如今已是家 喻户晓， 麾下的精品店遍布世界 各地。虽然 今时 往昔大 有不同，但品牌仍由Trussardi家 族 执 掌；他们 齐 心协力向前发 展，同时不 忘 Dante Trussardi以意 大 利品质与风 格为核心的创业 原则。 Nicola Trussardi于上世 纪 60年 代 成 为公司 掌门人，他向我们 分享了其 祖 父 对 于卓越手工 艺与不朽风 格 的理 解。“ 对 我 来说 最 重要 的学习 经 历，就 是在 意 大 利和我的 祖 父Dante一 起走 访 各种各样的工坊，”他 解 释 道。他能 敏锐 地 捕 捉 潮流 趋势，并充分 理 解顾客不断发 展 变化的需 求。在他的引领 下，Trussardi经 营的产品种 类 迅
上图: Trussardi Alla Scala餐厅一角
速 扩张，陆 续 推出了行李 箱、手 袋 和家居用品 等，且 从 未在品质上有过半点马虎。1973 年，Nicola Trussardi推出了用于品牌 旗下所有产 品的 格雷伊 猎犬标 志：如 今它已是 意 大 利时尚 界最具 辨 识 度的 标 志 之一。 上世 纪 80年 代，品牌 推出了一 个成 衣系列， 一 鸣惊人。Trussardi为人 称道 的不 仅是前卫的 意 大 利式审 美，还有 其 独 树一 帜的时装秀手 法。1984年 在 米 兰的主 教 座 堂 广场（Piazza del Duomo），以 及 后来在中央车站 和 交易所宫 （Palazzo della Borsa），Trussardi成 为了第一家 向公 众 展 示T台秀的品牌。在 Nicola领导下开展 的一系列合作 项目同样 提高了品牌 的影响力与 声 誉。与Garelli摩 托 车及可口可乐 等大品牌 联 手的项目巩固了 Trussardi作为 一家有远见的全 方位 生活方 式品牌 的地位。 如 今，该品牌由家 族 第四代传人 执 掌，Tomaso Trussardi担任首席执 行官，其姐 姐 Gaia Trussardi则为创意 总监。两人 携 手 维系着 卓越 的传 统，同时坚 定 地 着眼于 未 来。“ Trussardi一直 是 一家有活力的、有 野心
Trussardi是以传统皮 革工艺起家的现代意 大利生活方式品牌
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的、有明确定位的品牌，”Gaia Trussardi说 道，“ 我的目标是让品牌 获得新生，在尊 重传 统的同 时，保 持摩登、现代的风 格和 前瞻 性 思 维。” Tomaso Trussardi也 理 解 在传 统价值 观 与 现代 精神之间取舍平 衡的重要性。作为首席执 行官，他 致力于对品牌进行重 组以更 好地 服务 现代 顾客，并进一 步扩展品牌 的资产 组 合 — —The Café Trussardi和 Il Ristorante Trussardi概 念的 推出尤为值得关注。这两家高 端 餐厅 最初 在品牌 的米 兰旗 舰 店中亮 相，2018 年 将 陆 续开至世界 各地。如此 规 模 的 扩张依 赖 于品牌自身强烈的形 象认 知度。“ Trussardi是 一 个由家 族 持有 和经 营的企 业，我们 的经 营方 法 深深 受 到家 族先辈的影响，” Tomaso说 道，“我 们 的专业 皮革 工艺 源 远 流长，它为品牌 赋 予了 灵魂；同样的，我们 将 传 统 技 艺用在了现代 设 计上。” 时尚一直 是Trussardi的 核心所在。2018年 春夏季，用 Tomaso的话 说，品牌 的创意灵感源 自“意 大 利人在 旅行方面的天 性，它展现了一 种 何时何地 都 绝不 会改变的优 雅。那是 对冒险的 渴望，以 及 对 探索、理 解 与学习的需 求。”新季 女 装 廓形宽松，但 腰部紧束。借鉴于飞 机 和降 落伞的细 绳、束 带 和皮带固定住了飘 逸 的丝绸 和欧 根 纱。Amelia Earhart等先 驱 旅行 者是 重 要 的灵感 来源，这 在 对飞 行员连 衫 裤的现代 诠 释当中尤为显而易见。类似的飞 行主 题在男装 系列中同样显 眼，连 衫 裤 和夹克饰 有精 致的肩 章，细 绳 和金 属纽扣则再一次让 人联 想起 降 落 伞，T恤 和运 动 衫上亦印有航 拍图像。 当然，皮革也有着 十足的分 量。男装而 言， 在 经典的焦 糖 色 战 壕风 衣、深 蓝色 连 衫 裤 和两 边饰 有动感 条 纹 的直筒 裤上，都 少不了皮革元 素的存 在。女 士则有配色 和外形多种多样的夹 克可以 选 择，但 若想寻 找 与众不同的感觉，不 妨留意 缀满 软 质皮革饰 缝 的碎 花 连 衣 裙。Gita 手 袋 是 本 季另一大必 买单品。这 款手 袋以 柔 如 黄 油的皮革制成，有一系列时尚前卫的配色可 选，适中尺寸 最 适合旅行 途中携 带，难怪它要 取名“Gita”— — 翻 译成中文便是“ 旅 途 ”。 Tomaso Trussardi表 示，Trussardi的顾客 “身 体 与心灵 永 远 都 在 路上，”这句话也 适用于 该 品牌 本身。Trussardi家 族 有着宏图大 志，但 这 也是 一家有着强烈 身份意 识的品牌；这 样的身 份意 识将 确 保它继 续 秉 承107年的卓越传 统。 正如 Tomaso Trussardi所 述：“我们 的支 柱 便是 我们 赖以打造 未 来的 根 基。Trussardi是 一家以 传 统皮革 工艺起 家的现代 意 大 利生活方 式品 牌，拥有独一 无二的米 兰风 格，随时 随 地 为 您 带来别 致 风范。” 上图: Trussardi Gita 2018春夏手袋
126: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购物区中的30多万家商店消费 时，环 球 蓝联购物 退 税 服 务（Global Blue Tax Free Shopping）为 您节省购物 开 销。 每 年 约有两千六百多万名旅客 享用环 球 蓝联 （Global Blue）的购物 退 税 服 务，何不加入他们 的行列？您只需 在 购物时留意 环 球 蓝联 （Global Blue）的蓝 星标 志，或 直 接问询商家是 否提 供环 球 蓝联（Global Blue）退 税 服 务，然 后 遵 循以下简单 的退 税流 程即 可： 1.购物 消费 无论 您 在哪里 购物，请向商家索要 环 球 蓝联 退 税 表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并 保存 票 据。 2.申领退 税 在 您 返 程离境前，请 前往 海 关柜台，出示 退 税 表格和 相关票 据，获 取海 关印章，然 后再到环 球 蓝联 的退 税 点领 取 退 税 款。 联 系方 式： taxfree@ globalblue. com +421 232 111 111 最低消费154.95欧 元即 可申请 退 税，能 够 节省 高达15.5%的商品购买 价。请注 意：您 收 到的退 税 款 是 增 值 税减去环 球 蓝联 的手 续费。如果您 选 择 现 金 退 税，部 分机 场 还 将以 退 税申请 表为 单位收取 现 金 退 税手 续费。
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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 60: TURN BACK TIME ПУТЕШЕСТВИЕ ВО ВРЕМЕНИ
«В моду вернулось настроение рубежа тысячелетий», – написала Сара Мауэр в статье для Vogue.com, посвященной коллекции весна-лето 2018 Max Mara. В коллекции она обнаружила множество отсылок к 1990-м: облегающие костюмы с прямыми укороченными брюками, боди и обтягивающие жилеты с открытыми плечами, заправленные в объемные юбки-макси. Переливающиеся ткани навевают мысли о культовом платьекомбинации Лизы Брюс, в котором Кейт Мосс появилась в 1993 году. Кроме того, в глаза бросаются открытые швы и полное отсутствие бусин, пуговиц или прочей бижутерии. В коллекции преобладает верблюжий оттенок – та самая нейтральная гамма, которую активно использовал бренд в 90-е. И наконец, чистые линии и простые силуэты передают самую суть стиля Max Mara двадцать лет назад. Max Mara – не единственный бренд, обратившийся к знаковому десятилетию. Модные показы в Милане продемонстрировали, что многие дизайнеры вдохновлялись изысканным минимализмом и блеском супермоделей того времени. Конечно, для моды характерно возвращение того или иного периода. Однако с каждым сезоном колесо модной индустрии вращается все быстрее, и едва успевает смениться поколение, как стиль эпохи уже снова становится популярным. Бренду Alberta Ferretti присуща утонченная женственность, однако в этот раз Ферретти отказалась от декоративности в пользу чистых чувственных силуэтов. Для нее это стало способом выразить ностальгию по роскошному минимализму, который доминировал на подиумах в конце 20 века. Показ открылся демонстрацией изящных купальных костюмов Сверху: Versace весна-лето 2018
ФОТО: © GORUNWAY.COM
Бет Дрюс рассказывает об итальянских брендах, которые в этом сезоне увлечены стилем 1990-х
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в духе актуального athleisure (сочетание спортивного атлетизма и отдыха): сплошные купальники черного или шоколадного цветов сопровождались соответствующими летними широкополыми шляпами. За ними появились вечерние наряды самых разных фасонов: комбинезоны с глубоким декольте и на бретелях-петле и платья на тонких бретелях с вырезами на талии. Ничего общего с шифоном, вышивками и бисером, которые куда более характерны для этого бренда: «Я почувствовала, что настал момент оглянуться на прошлое и подумать о том, чего я хочу в настоящем», – так Ферретти прокомментировала коллекцию после показа. Преподаватель моды и телеведущая Уна О’Хаган считает, что подобное ускорение трендового цикла связано с тем, что внимание людей привлекает одно и то же: «Причина кроется в том, что мы бесконечно интересуемся одними теми же вещами. Нас заботит форма
Если Ферретти и Дель Аква обратились к модным явлениям конца 20 века, то для Донателлы Версаче ключевой темой сезона стало двадцатилетие со дня смерти ее брата Джанни. Чтобы в должной мере почтить его память, простых отсылок к отдельным элементам явно недостаточно. Поэтому она обратилась напрямую к архивам модного дома и продемонстрировала ключевые вещи и принты из коллекций Versace начала 90-х: фирменные барочные принты ярких оттенков желтого, золотого и голубого, нежные платья и другие предметы гардероба пастельных тонов, какие носила принцесса Диана, и черные пиджаки с дерзкими квадратными плечами. Также в коллекцию вошли леггинсы, леопардовые принты и узнаваемая позолоченная бижутерия: серьги, пуговицы и отделка ремней. Но и этого было недостаточно. Донателла Версаче пригласила поучаствовать в показе
„Мы бесконечно интересуемся одними теми же вещами. Нас заботит форма и функция: подчеркнуть или спрятать тело и его формы, чтобы рассказать или объяснить что-то о себе“ и функция: подчеркнуть или спрятать тело и его формы, чтобы рассказать или объяснить что-то о себе», – утверждает она. О’Хаган также указывает, что современное потребление еще сильнее закручивает эту пружину: одежда, которую мы покупаем сейчас, едва ли долго будет модной. Дизайнеру Алессандро Дель Аква тоже не чужда тема 90-х: на это время пришлась его профессиональная зрелость. Оставив руководство брендом Alessandro Dell’Acqua, он основал марку No 21 в 2010 году. За прошедшие семь лет молодой бренд нашел собственное место в модной матрице: его специализацией стало исследование современной женственности в одежде. В коллекции весна-лето 2018 Дель Аква пересматривает образы, созданные им же в 1997: от обтягивающего платья-комбинации до кружев с точно таким же узором, как в коллекциях двадцатилетней давности. globalblue.ru
супермоделей, в карьере которых бренд сыграл ключевую роль. В конце шоу она вышла на подиум в компании Синди Кроуфорд, Клаудии Шиффер, Наоми Кэмпбелл, Хелены Кристенсен и Карлы Бруни, одетых в золотые платьякольчуги. Это был подлинный триумф важного периода в модной истории. Возникает закономерный вопрос о будущем: является ли интерес к истории чем-то мимолетным, или к нему следует присмотреться внимательнее? О’Хаган объясняет это так: «Впервые в истории новые вещи можно создавать и доставлять покупателям в такие короткие сроки. Благодаря социальным сетям узнавать о коллекциях мы стали намного быстрее, чем когда-либо прежде». И вряд ли в ближайшее время ритм модной жизни заметно снизится. Но если это приносит в наши гардеробы роскошный минимализм, – то почему бы и нет?
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72: ART AT THE HEART OF THE HOME МОДНЫЙ УЮТ Два из четырех ведущих интерьерных брендов Италии начинали с дизайна одежды, два других – с товаров для дома. Их объединяет склонность к роскоши и первоклассное мастерство, – рассказывает Ребекка Риз-Эванс Итальянский стиль проявляется не только в моде; местные дизайнеры интерьеров и производители товаров для дома славятся во всем мире. Для многих характерна особая любовь к национальному мастерству и изысканным материалам. Если популярные интерьерные тренды Скандинавии и Японии продиктованы врожденным чувством практичности, то итальянский дизайн построен на совершенно другой эстетике, отличающейся завидной роскошью. Неотъемлемыми элементами являются изящная керамика ручной росписи и великолепные шелковые подушки, да и вообще итальянцы никогда не стеснялись яркой палитры и красочных узоров. Мировая слава пришла к ряду дизайнерских брендов благодаря их выдающимся творениям, другие Сверху: коллекция Missoni Home Geranium
же сперва добились популярности в мире моды, после чего направили свою деятельность в новое русло. Пьеро Форнасетти остается одной из самых известных творческих личностей Италии 20 века. Юмористический подход и эклектичный стиль этого миланского художника, скульптора и декоратора, создавшего более 11 000 предметов интерьера, принесли ему небывалую славу. é многих его имя стало ассоциироваться с итальянской индустрией дизайна. После смерти Пьеро в 1988 году, его сын Барнаба продолжил заниматься семейным бизнесом и сохранил производство на дому, что является важным элементом итальянской ремесленной культуры. Самый известный мотив бренда – лицо Лины Кавальери, оперной певицы начала 1900-х годов, ставшей знаменитой благодаря своей красоте и харизме. В 1952 году Форнасетти заметил ее лицо в журнале и был очарован. Изображение с ее портретом появилось на целом ряде изделий. «Клоун», «вор» и «арабская принцесса» – вот лишь несколько из многочисленных работ Форнасетти, украшенных изображением Лины Кавальери. Сегодня бренд выпускает ковры, светильники, обои, ткани, плитку, украшения, шелковые шарфы, домашнюю парфюмерию и многое другое. Марка Alessi имеет более прагматичную историю. Ее основателем в 1921 году был
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Джованни Алесси, производитель домашней утвари из меди, латуни и серебра. Переломный момент для компании настал в 1950-х годах с приходом в бизнес сына Джованни – Карло. Получив образование индустриального дизайнера, он начал сотрудничать с различными архитекторами и специалистами в области интерьера, результатом чего стал широкий ряд изделий для отелей и частных покупателей. Кофеварка Ричарда Сеппера, созданная им в 1978 году, стала большим успехом, как и соковыжималка Juicy Salif для цитрусов Филиппа Старка в 1980-х. По сравнению со своими современниками Алесси предложил совершенно иной подход к дизайну, уделив внимание практической составляющей и кропотливому мастерству. Сегодня предметы интерьера Alessi известны далеко за пределами Италии; большой выбор изделий, включая настенные часы и светильники, пользуются большим спросом у покупателей во всем мире. Многие знаменитые итальянские бренды одежды расширили свой ассортимент, начав выпускать товары для дома. Один из ярких примеров – Missoni. Дом моды, руководство над которым уже третье поколение подряд принадлежит одной и той же семье, делает ставку на семейные традиции не только в бизнесе, но и в дизайне. Розита Миссони, основавшая бренд вместе со своим мужем Оттавио в 1953 году, полагает, что любой дом должен быть гостеприимным пространством, обеспечивающим равные условия для работы и отдыха. «В моем представлении домашний интерьер должен быть организованным и вместе с тем неформальным, разносторонним и приветливым, – говорит она. – Мой дом всегда готов к новым встречам, внезапным гостям или семейным торжествам. Жизнь Розиты, чья девичья фамилия Джелмини, была неразрывно связана с производством тканей. Ее семье принадлежит половина текстильного предприятия T&J Vestor. В 1983 году компания стала партнером Missoni, когда была запущена линия Missoni Home. Продукцию Missoni Home отличает запоминающийся цветной узор в виде зигзага, благодаря которому компания прославилась в 1960-х годах. Радужная эмблема присутствует на аксессуарах, мебели и постельном белье. globalblue.ru
Missoni – один из первых итальянских брендов одежды занялся выпуском предметов интерьера и доказал, что мода в доме не менее важна, чем в гардеробе. На сегодняшний день компания является одним из самых успешных в Италии интерьерных брендов. Gucci – еще один пример итальянского дома моды, решившего расширить сферу своего влияния на мир интерьера. В отличие от Missoni с его продолжительной историей в области дизайна интерьеров, Gucci предпринял данный шаг в прошлом году под руководством креативного директора Алессандро Микеле. Как и в случае с дизайном одежды, Микеле предлагает клиентам модифицировать вещи на свой вкус. По словам дизайнера, он хочет, чтобы его продукция привнесла в дом оттенок «современного романтизма Gucci». Коллекция Gucci Décor включает узоры, созданные Микеле специально для бренда: пчелы, тигры, мотыльки и змеи вручную нанесены на изделия из фарфора, свечи, ширмы, шелковые обои, подушки и многое другое. Gucci, Missoni, Alessi и Fornasetti – четыре очень разных бренда, однако им присуща одна общая черта и это – приверженность качеству. Независимо от того, ищете ли вы кухонные принадлежности или ширму с узором в виде осьминога, важно помнить одно – продукция итальянских дизайнеров будет всегда нести в себе высочайший стандарт качества и мастерства.
80: TRU STYLE БЕЗУПРЕЧНЫЙ СТИЛЬ Итальянский бренд Trussardi более века подряд совершенствует миланский стиль. Ханна Льюис узнает секреты успеха компании В 1911 году в живописном итальянском городке Бергамо, что на северо-востоке от Милана, Данте Труссарди основал небольшое дело по пошиву кожаных перчаток. Почти сразу мастерство оценили по достоинству и он завоевал уважение членов королевского двора Великобритании. За сто лет своего
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существования компания Trussardi значительно расширила специализацию и ассортимент. Сегодня Trussardi – один из крупнейших домов моды с бутиками по всему миру. И хотя многое с тех пор изменилось, однако бренд до сих пор остается в руках семейства Труссарди. Компания уверенно смотрит в будущее, не забывая при этом о принципах итальянского стиля, заложенных ее основателем – Данте Труссарди.
именно Томасо Труссарди в роли генерального директора и Гая Труссарди в роли креативного директора. Вместе они продолжают поддерживать традицию мастерства, не спуская глаз с будущего. «Trussardi всегда был генератором свежих идей, мечтательных образов и имел четкую идентичность, – говорит Гая Труссарди. – Моей задачей было обновить бренд, сохранив традицию и стремление к инновациям».
„Trussardi всегда был генератором свежих идей, мечтательных образов и имел четкую идентичность“ Николя Труссарди, взявший на себя управление брендом в 1960 году, полностью разделял идеи своего деда о первоочередности мастерства и непреходящем стиле. «Самым главным вещам я научился в Италии во время зянятий с моим дедом», – поясняет он. У него было прекрасное видение зарождающихся модных трендов, а также понимание растущих потребностей клиентов. Под его руководством Trussardi стремительно расширил ассортимент, представив чемоданы, сумки, товары для дома и многое другое. В 1983 году Николя Труссарди представил новый логотип бренда с изображением борзой: сегодня он является одним из самых узнаваемых эмблем итальянской моды. В 1980 году с большим успехом была запущена линия одежды. Заслужить высокую оценку Trussardi удалось не только благодаря стильной итальянской эстетике, но и уникальному подходу к модным шоупоказам. Бренд стал одним из первых, кто сделал свои презентации доступными для широкой публики, выбрав в качестве площадки миланскую Piazza del Duomo в 1984 году, а позднее – центральный вокзал и Palazzo della Borsa. Под руководством Николя Труссарди компания провела ряд значительный коллабораций. Совместные проекты с такими крупными компаниями, как Garelli motorcycles и Coca-Cola, позволили прочно закрепить образ Trussardi, как универсального и инновационного бренда. Сегодня домом Trussardi руководит четвертое поколение семейства Труссарди, а globalblue.ru
Томасо Труссарди прекрасно осознает важность баланса между традиционными ценностями и духом модернизма. Исполняя должность генерального директора, он сыграл ключевую роль в адаптации бренда к нуждам современных покупателей. При его участии портфолио бренда стало еще шире, включив новые проекты: Café Trussardi и Il Ristorante Trussardi. Эти роскошные заведения были впервые открыты в миланском флагмане бренда, а в 2018 ожидается их появление в других странах. Подобное расширение стало возможно лишь благодаря сильному чувству идентичности бренда. «Trussardi – это семейный бизнес, и наш подход во многом зависит от семейных решений, – поясняет генеральный директор. – Работа с кожгалантерейной продукцией является частью нашей истории и наделяет бренд душой, поскольку для воплощения современных дизайнерских идей мы используем традиционные техники». Коллекции одежды остаются в центре внимания Trussardi, и сезон весна-лето 2018, по словам Томасо Труссарди, был вдохновлен «любовью итальянцев к путешествиям и их манере оставаться элегантными во что бы то ни стало: это и жажда приключений, желание познавать, понимать и учиться». Женские силуэты новой коллекции отличаются свободными формами и собранной талией. Пышный шелк и органзу соединяют шнурки, ленты и ремни, напоминая самолеты и парашюты. Пионеры путешествий, такие как Амелия Эрхарт, стали ключевым источником
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вдохновения дизайнеров, и это заметно при взгляде на современные интерпретации летных комбинезонов. Похожие отсылки к авиации можно увидеть и в мужской коллекции: комбинезоны и куртки украшены скромными эполетами, шнурками и кнопками, а на футболки и свитера нанесены аэрофотоснимки. Конечно, практически повсеместно в коллекциях используется кожа. Мужчин ждут классические бежевые плащи, темно-синие комбинезоны и прямые брюки со стильными полосками по бокам. Для женщин заготовлен большой выбор курток самых разных оттенков и фасонов, а также платьев с цветочным узором и кожаными панелями. Сумка Gita – еще один потенциальный бестселлер сезона. Она выполнена из мягкой кожи и доступна в нескольких стильных цветовых решениях, а размер идеально подойдет для путешествий по новым местам. Недаром в переводе с итальянского название означает «поездка». По словам Томасо Труссарди, клиент Trussardi «постоянно находится в движении как физически, так и ментально». То же самое можно сказать и о компании. И хотя у семьи большие планы на счет развития бренда,
ярко выраженная идентичность гарантирует верность 107-летней традиции и фирменному наследию. Как говорит Томасо Труссарди: «Наши принципы являются основанием, на котором мы строим будущее. Trussardi – современный итальянский бренд, выношенный руками портных и овеянный миланскими традициями и культурой».
126: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С TAX FREE Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить Tax Free формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.95 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
Сверху: Гая и Томасо Труссарди
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日本 語
60: TURN BACK TIME 時 間よ、戻れ
「ファッション界にあの世紀末の雰囲気が蘇った」 と、Vogue.comのマックスマーラコレクション評で サラ・モウワーが書いている。ファッション評論家 のモウワーは、コレクションに漂う1990年代ファッ ションの面影を指してそうコメントしたのだ。例え ば、ストレートパンツの裾丈が短いすらりとしたパ ンツスーツや玉虫色に光る生地などで、1993年にケ イト・モスが来たライザ・ブルースの代表作スリップ ドレスを彷彿とさせる。飾り気のない縫い合わせも 大きな特徴でビーズやボタン、玉飾りは一切見られ ず、ボディスーツやスリムなレーサーバックベストを マキシスカートのウエストにすっきりとたくし込ん だ。また、デザインの多くに、このレーベルが1990 年代に多用したニュートラルトーンのキャメル色が 使われている。つまり、20年前のマックスマーラによ く見られたクリーンなラインとシンプルなシルエット を復活させたのだ。 この回帰傾向はマックスマーラだけではない。 ミラノのキャットウォークではデザイナーがこぞっ て、洗練されたミニマリスト的な高級感とスーパー モデルの華麗な魅力が特徴だった90年代にインス ピレーションを求めていた。もちろん、昔の流行を 取り入れることはファッション界では珍しくないが、 トレンドの移り変わりが毎シーズン速くなっている 感は否めない。昔のスタイルが一世代も経たないう ちにまた流行しているのだから。 巧みに形作られたデリケートな女性らしさで知 られるアルベルタ・フェレッティでは、飾りはやめて クリーンで官能的なシルエットを追求。20世紀末 のキャットウォークによく見られた高級感あるミニ マリズムへのノスタルジアが表れていた。ショーは 今はやりの言葉で言えば「アスレジャー」風のとて も洗練されたスイムウェアで幕開け。ブラックやチ ョコレートブラウンのワンピースにお揃いのつば広 サンハットを合わせていた。続いて様々なネックラ インが魅力的なイブニングウェア。深いプランジネッ クやホルターネックのジャンプスーツ、上腹部がカッ トアウトされたスパゲッティストラップドレスなどが 上: マックスマーラ2018年春夏コレクション
写真: © GORUNWAY.COM
今シーズンのキャットウォークでは、イタ リアの有力レーベルが1990年代のベスト スタイルを取り入れている。べス・ドゥルー スがレポートする。
写真: CARLO SCARPATO
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披露された。このレーベルが名高い刺繍入りシフォ ンやデリケートなビーズ使いからは程遠い。 「今は 過去を振り返りつつ現在に何を求めるかを考えるこ とが大事だと感じた」というフェレッティ。 ファッションの講師でありブロードキャスター でもあるウーナ・オヘイガンは、トレンドサイクルの 加速は一般人の強い関心が背景にあるという。 「お そらく人間は同じものに果てしない興味を持ってい るんですね。つまり、自分の身体を強調したり小さ く見せたりする機能や形。それによって、自分につ いて何かを表現したり説明したりすることに飽くな き関心を寄せているからだと思います。」オヘイガ ンはさらに、現代の消費主義がこのサイクルの加速 に輪をかけていると指摘する。今買う服の流行もお そらく長続きはしないだろう。 アレッサンドロ・デラクアは90年代半ばに成人 したデザイナーだ。自分の名を冠したレーベルは支 配権を失ってしまったが、2010年に立ち上げた N°21（ヌメロヴェントゥーノ）であくまで女らしさを 追求し、ここ7年でファッション界に地位を築いてき た。2018年の春夏は1997年に初めてデザインした ルックスに立ち戻っており、下着が透けて見えるシ ース型のスリップドレスから、20年前のデラクアコ レクションで使ったのと全く同じ模様のレースまで 登場する。 フェレッティやデラクアが20世紀末ファッショ ンの特徴を取り入れたのに対し、ドナテッラ・ヴェ ルサーチはさらに踏み込んで、兄ジャンニの他界後 20年目を機会に彼が残したデザインを顧みた。あ の時代のデザイン要素を参考にするだけでなく、ヴ ェルサーチのアーカイブそのものに基づいて90年 代初期のヴェルサーチコレクションから主な作品と プリントを披露したのだ。イエロー、ゴールド、スカ イブルーという力強い色調のヴェルサーチらしいバ ロックプリントや、ダイアナ妃スタイルの可愛らしい パステル調のドレスやセパレーツ、角ばった肩が挑 戦的なかっちりした黒のジャケットなど。レギングや ヒョウ柄プリントもあり、ベルトやボタン、イヤリン グはヴェルサーチらしい金色のジュエリーで飾られ ている。 それだけではない。ドナテッラはキャリア構築 にヴェルサーチが大きな役割を果たしたスーパー モデルたちを呼び寄せた。シンディ・クロフォード、 クラウディア・シファー、ナオミ・キャンベル、ヘレ ナ・クリステンセン、カーラ・ブルーニが金色のメタ リックドレスでコレクションのフィナーレに登場し、 ドナテッラ本人を囲んで90年代の再来を演出し た。 将来はどうだろうか。過去のファッションを再 生させようという気運は一時の流行なのか、それと 上: No 21の2018年春夏コレクション
も今後も続くのだろうか。オヘイガンによると「新し いアイテムが作られ店頭に並ぶまでの時間がかつ てないほど短くなり、コレクションの情報もソーシャ ルメディアのおかげで昔より早く入るようになって いる」というから、トレンドサイクルの鈍化は当面な さそうだが、そのおかげで高級感のあるラックス・ミ ニマリズムが特徴のスマートで洗練されたワードロ ーブが実現するなら大歓迎だ。
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72: ART AT THE HEART OF THE HOME
暮らしの中のイタリアンデザ イン イタリアの4大インテリアブランドのう ち、二つはファッションレーベルから発 展したもので、あと二つはインスピレー ション溢れるホームウェアを発端とす る。共通するのは華麗さと至高の職人 技。レベッカ・リース・エヴァンズが案内 する。 イタリアンスタイルといえば専らファッションかとい うと、そうではない。この国のインテリアデザイナー や家庭用品メーカーは世界中で憧れの的になって いるのだ。それには、彼らがイタリアの熟練職人に 受け継がれる伝統を大事にし、優れた素材を使っ ていることに対する称賛も込められている。スカン ジナビアや日本のデザイントレンドは実用性本位で 人気を博しているが、イタリアのインテリアデザイ ンはそれとは全く違うもっと華やかな美学が根底 にある。美しく手描きされた陶器や贅沢なシルクの クッションがつきもので、色やプリント柄もイタリア 人は決して敬遠しない。高級家庭用品ブランドの 中には個別作品の創作を端緒とするものもあれ
ば、ファッション界で評判を築いた後にインテリア デザインへ進出したものもある。 ピエロ・フォルナセッティは、20世紀に名をは せたイタリア人創作家の一人として今も有名だ。ミラ ノ出身で画家であり彫刻家であり室内装飾家でも あった彼はユーモラスな折衷スタイルで知られ、お よそ1万1000点の作品を創ったといわれる。フォル ナセッティの名は今やイタリアンインテリアデザイ ンの代名詞。1988年にピエロが亡くなった後は息 子のバルナバが家業を継いだが、自社製造は継続 した。この自社製造はイタリアの手工芸文化に欠か せない要素だ。 フォルナセッティブランドの最も有名なモチー フは、1990年代初頭のオペラ歌手で美しさとカリス マ性で知られるリナ・カヴァリエリの顔だ。フォル ナセッティは1952年に彼女の顔を雑誌で見てすっ かり魅了され、彼女の肖像を使った印象的なデザ インの商品をいくつも作った。道化師や盗賊、アラ ビアの王女などリナ・カヴァリエリの姿をいろいろ に想像して有名なフォルナセッティの磁器に描い た。同社は今ではラグや照明、壁紙、ファブリック、 タイル、ジュエリー、シルクのスカーフ、ホームフレグ ランスなども作っている。 アレッシィの出発点はもっと実用的で、1921年 にジョヴァンニ・アレッシィが銅や真鍮、銀製の小 型家庭用品メーカーとして設立したのが始まりだ。 上品でしかも実用的なアイテムを作る企業へのター ニングポイントは、1950年代にジョヴァンニの息子 カルロが家業を継いだ時だった。工業デザイナーと して修業したカルロは社外のデザイナーや建築家
上（左から）: アレッシィの壁掛け時計「ラジャンテ」、リチャード・サッパーデザインによるアレッシィのエスプレッソメーカー 「9090」
写真: MAX ZAMBELLI
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とのコラボレーションを開始し、個人向けだけでな くホテル向けの商品レンジも手掛けたのだ。リチャ ード・サッパーがデザインしたエスプレッソメーカー （1978年）は特に好評で、フィリップ・スタルクによ るレモン絞り器「ジューシーサリフ」 （1980年代）も 大ヒットした。アレッシィが提供する家庭用品のデ ザインは同年代のメーカーとは全く別の類で、必要 な機能を備えつつ丁寧な職人技が光るものだっ た。今やアレッシィはイタリアンキッチンウェアの定 番ブランドだが、時計やランプなど秀逸の品が揃 う室内装飾品の国際レーベルとしても話題を呼ん でいる。 一方、イタリアの有名ファッションブランドの 中にも家庭用品の分野に進出したものがある。最 も注目すべきものの一つがミッソーニだ。現在は 創業者ファミリーの3代目が経営するこのブランド は、ビジネスだけでなくデザインにおいても家族の 存在感が際立つ。1953年に夫のオッタヴィオと共 同でレーベルを立ち上げたロジータ・ミッソーニ は、家庭とは仕事と遊びのバランスを調整できる 温かいスペースであるべきという信念の持ち主で、 「私の室内装飾は、秩序がありながらインフォー マル、かつ多目的で人を温かく迎え入れる住空間 づくり」だと言う。 「私の家は、来客や通りすがりの 人、行き来する家族、思いがけなく訪れる友人に 対して常にオープンなんです。」旧姓はロジータ・ イェルミニ。ファブリック製造業界とは生来強い 関係がある。イェルミニ一族がテキスタイルメーカ ーT&Jヴェスターの半分を所有しているの だ。1983年にミッソーニがインテリアライン「ミッ ソーニ・ホーム」を始めた時、T&Jヴェスターは必 然のパートナーだった。 1960年代にファッションブランド「ミッソー ニ」を有名にし、今もお馴染みのカラフルなジグザ グ模様は、ミッソーニ・ホームの目玉でもあり、虹 色のグラデーションがアクセサリーから家具、寝 具まで幅広い商品に見られる。ミッソーニはファッ ションからインテリアへいち早く進出したイタリア ンレーベルの一つで、ワードローブだけでなく家 にとってもファッションが大切なことを証明した。 現在、同社はイタリアで最も成功しているインテリ アブランドだ。 グッチも家庭用品部門を開発した有名イタリ アンファッションブランドの一つだ。家庭用品を 長年デザインしてきたミッソーニとは違い、グッチ はクリエイティブディレクター、アレッサンドロ・ミ ケーレの下で昨年進出したばかり。ミケーレは服の デザインと同様にインテリアについても、使う人が 個人的なテーストに合わせてアイテムをカスタマイ ズすることよう勧めている。自分のデザインで「グ 上: ミッソーニ・ホームの「スプリングタイム」コレクション
ッチの現代ロマンチシズムを家庭に」加えられれ ば嬉しいという。 「グッチデコール」コレクションの 特徴はミケーレが同ブランドのために考案した蜂 や虎、蛾、蛇といったモチーフで、磁器やロウソ ク、フレンチスクリーン、シルクの壁紙などに手描 きされたり、クッションに刺繍されたりしている。 グッチ、ミッソーニ、アレッシィ、フォルナセッ ティの4ブランドはそれぞれ大きく異なるが、品質 へのこだわりという点では共通している。キッチン 用品であろうが蛸模様プリントのフレンチスクリー ンであろうが、イタリアンデザインハウスの製品に は素晴らしい職人の技が光っている。
80: TRU STYLE
トラサル ディならではのスタイ ル イタリアのライフスタイルレーベル、トラサ ルディは一世紀以上かけてミラノスタイルを 極めてきた。一族で経営するこの会社の成 功の秘密をハンナ・ルイスが探った。 1911年、ダンテ・トラサルディがミラノ北東の美しい 町ベルガモで高級皮手袋を作る小さな会社を立ち 上げた。彼の腕は瞬く間に評判を呼び、まもなくトラ サルディの手袋は英国王族など高貴なクライアント が使うようになる。それから一世紀以上経ち、トラサ ルディの商品レンジは大幅に広がった。今や本格的 なライフスタイルブランドになったトラサルディは、 世界中にブティックを展開し誰もが知るブランドだ。 様々な変化があったとはいえ、トラサルディは今も一 族が経営し、イタリア製の卓越した品質とスタイル を大事にした創業者ダンテ・トラサルディの信念を 見失うことなく、未来に向け一丸となって前進しよう としている。 1960年代に舵をとったニコラ・トラサルディは、 上: カフェ・トラサルディ
祖父ダンテと同じように優れた職人技と古くならな いスタイルを理解していた。 「一番大事なことは、イ タリアで祖父と工房を見回った時に学びました」と いう二コラ。彼はトレンドを見抜く眼識もあり、顧客 のニーズの変化を理解していた。そのニコラの指揮 の下、トラサルディはスーツケースやハンドバッグ、イ ンテリア用品など商品の幅を急速に拡大していく が、品質面で妥協することはなかった。1973年、ニ コラ・トラサルディは全商品にグレイハウンドのブラ ンドロゴを採用した。グレイハウンドは今やイタリア ファッション界で最も認知度の高いロゴの一つだ。 1980年代には既製服ラインを発売し、たちまち 成功する。評判を呼んだのは前衛的なイタリア的審 美観だけでなく、ファッションショーに対するユニー クなアプローチも称賛された。キャットウォークで のお披露目を初めて一般公開したのがこのブランド で、1984年にはミラノのドゥオーモ広場を会場に選 び、その後、ミラノ中央駅やボルサ宮殿でもショーを 開催している。ニコラのリーダーシップの下で行われ た数々のコラボレーションも、ブランドのリーチ拡大 と評判構築に寄与した。バイクメーカーのガレリや コカ・コーラ トラサルディといったビッグブランド との共同プロジェクトを通じて、包括的で進歩的な ライフスタイルブランドとしてのトラサルディの地位 が確立された。 現在、同ブランドの経営は4代目の手に移り、ト
写真: © ZAMARIO/MARIO ZANARIA
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マソ・トラサルディがCEO、ガイア・トラサルディがク リエイティブディレクターを務める。二人は協力して、 しっかりと未来を見据えながら優れた伝統を守って いる。 「トラサルディはこれまでずっと、幅広く展開し つつ明確なアイデンティティと魅力を維持してきたブ ランドです」とガイア・トラサルディはいう。 「私の目 標は、その伝統を尊重しつつも、モダンで現代的で 進歩的であることを忘れずにブランドを刷新していく ことです。」 トマソ・トラサルディも伝統的価値観と現代性の バランスが重要なことを承知している。彼はCEOとし てトラサルディを現代的なクライアントにふさわしい ブランドに再構成し、ポートフォリオ拡大を推進して きた立役者だ。そうした動きの最たる例がカフェ・ト ラサルディやイル・リストランテ・トラサルディといっ たアイデアの具現化で、これらの高級カフェ・レスト ランはまずミラノの旗艦店で導入され、2018年には 世界中でカフェの開設が予定されている。こうした拡 大ができるのも、確固たるアイデンティティがあるか らこそ。 「トラサルディは一族で所有し経営する企業 で、当社のアプローチには私たち一族の性向が深く 影響を及ぼしています」と、CEOのトマソは説明す る。 「当社の革細工技術はトラサルディ家伝来のも の。伝統的な手法を現代的なデザインの具現化に用 いており、技術はブランドの魂ともいえます。」 ファッションは今でもトラサルディの主力 だ。2018年春夏のインスピレーションはトマソ・トラ サルディいわく「世界のどこに行こうと不変のエレガ ンスを見出すイタリア人の旅心。冒険を求める気持 ち、探検して理解し学ばずにはおれない気質」だと いう。ウーマンズウェアでは、ゆったりしながらもウエ ストを絞ったシルエット。波打つようなシルクやオー ガンザを、飛行機やパラシュートを連想させる引き 紐やストラップ、ベルトで締めている。アメリア・イア ハートなどパイオニア的トラベラーが重要なインスピ レーションになっていて、そのことはとりわけパイロッ トのジャンプスーツをモダンに解釈し直した作品に 表れている。メンズのコレクションにも同じような航 空服のテーマが見られ、肩章や引き紐、メタルスタッ ドをさりげなく配したジャンプスーツやジャケットが パラシュートを連想させ、Tシャツやセーターには航 空写真のプリントが施されている。 目玉はもちろんレザーだ。飽きの来ないキャラメ ル色のトレンチコートや深いネイビーブルーのジャン プスーツ、脇にスポーティなストライプが入ったストレ ートパンツなど。ウーマンズは様々な色や形のジャケ ットから選べるが、何か目立つものをというなら花柄 にソフトレザーのパネルを重ねたドレスをチェックし たい。 「ジータ」ハンドバッグも今シーズン注目のアイ テムだ。バターソフトレザーで作られたこのバッグ globalblue.com
は、スタイリッシュな色が幅広く出揃い、初めて訪ね る土地を探検するのにちょうどいいサイズだ。 「小旅 行」を意味するジータという命名もうなずける。 トマソによれば、トラサルディを買う人は「身体 的にも精神的にもいつも活動的」だという。同社の ビジネスにも同じことが言える。創業者一族には将 来に向けた壮大な計画があるが、トラサルディは 107年の歴史を大切にしていく確固たるアイデンティ ティを持ったブランドだ。 「当社の柱は将来を築くた めの土台です。トラサルディはあくまで、伝統的手法 で作られたいかにもミラノらしい一目でそれとわか る革製品から出発した、現代的なイタリアンライフ スタイルブランドなのです。」
126: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE
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SOUVENIR
Founded in Florence in 1993, Patrizia Pepe is a contemporary brand for the modern woman. The collections blur the line between practicality and frivolity, allowing everyday dressing to become a joy. The Plume shoes from the Patrizia Pepe spring/summer 2018 collection stay true to the brand’s identity, offering a classic red court with the addition of playful feathers. This style is perfect for evening dressing, teamed with a little black Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 126
dress, but works just as well with a great pair of jeans – and would make an ideal memento of your time in this vibrant Italian city. lt Patrizia Pepe shoes, €338, Patrizia Pepe, Via Alessandro Manzoni 38, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 4477, patriziapepe.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 113
PHOTO: PEPE MEDIA
FINE FEATHERS