SHOP Milan SS19

MILAN | 米兰 | МИЛАН | ミラノ

MILAN Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2019

DISCOVER MILAN: the essential guide to Italy’s vibrant, stylish fashion hub

FARETTA CORSO GARIBALDI MILANO, ITALY SPRING SUMMER 2019

#WELOVEMILANO TWINSETOFFICIAL

MILANO

VIA MANZONI, 34 CORSO VERCELLI, 2 CORSO BUENOS AIRES, 16

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EDITOR’S LETTER

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Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of Italy’s bustling, energetic city of fashion. Milan has much to offer, as you’ll discover in our guide on page 62. Don’t miss our feature on the key catwalk trends of the season from Italy’s top designers (page 44), or our round-up of the country’s innovative, forward-thinking tailors (page 52). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 15.5% when shopping in Italy. We publish guides to the most prestigious destinations across the globe. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Milan. For the very latest information, scan the QR code on this page to head straight to our website, globalblue.com, to find everything you need to navigate the best shopping destinations on earth. For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the SHOP TAX FREE app – calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.

CONTRIBUTORS ALEX ASFOUR

GINGER ROSE CLARK Ginger Rose Clark, SHOP’s news editor, holds an MA in fashion journalism from the London College of Fashion. Before joining SHOP, Ginger worked as a fashion stylist and also wrote for a number of publications. globalblue.com

RUAIRIDH PRITCHARD SHOP’s acting deputy editor Ruairidh Pritchard is from the Outer Hebrides of Scotland. He studied journalism in Glasgow. Ruairidh, a fan of all things Italian, has written about fashion, art, culture and food for various outlets.

LUCINDA TURNER Lucinda Turner, SHOP’s fashion editor, studied linguistics at Queen Mary University of London. Since graduating she has worked in the fashion departments of several titles, including Tatler and Marie Claire.

ILLUSTRATION: ALEX ASFOUR; PHOTO: (CENTRE) MICHAEL CHAPMAN

Alex Asfour has created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Milan in his trademark graphic style. It shows a couple in an open-top Italian sports car driving through the streets of the city’s famous shopping district, the Quadrilatero della Moda. Alex’s other clients include Airbnb, Disney, Carnival Cruises and the Washington Post. Discover SHOP Milan and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

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Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Acting deputy editor Ruairidh Pritchard Cover illustrator Alex Asfour Contributor Virginie Morawski Production editor Katie Muxworthy Fashion editor Lucinda Turner Deputy fashion editor Fani Mari News editor Ginger Rose Clark Associate fashion and lifestyle editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Jo Walker Assistant picture editor Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Chris Bechtsudis Senior designer Aaron Carline Midweight designer Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener Social media strategy and branded partnerships manager Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese production editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Assistant Chinese online editor Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Gary Ramazanov Russian communications assistant Elizaveta Kolesnikova Russian translator Teena Garnik Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designers Peter Darkin, Joanna Orchard Junior designers Kiranjeet Kaur, Tatjiana Antoniou Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production coordinator Inga Abramian Studio production assistants Chris Bigg, Joanna Dodge Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital data strategist Dian Liu Digital analyst intern Yunrong Kang Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Web developer Mohammed Hakiki Digital production assistant Linda Hau

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Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2019 Global Blue

CONTENTS CHECK OUT 18

STREET STYLE 32

SHOP selects a standout piece from Milan this season

Our pick of Milan’s best dressed

PRODUCTS 20

SHOP WINDOW 34

Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

Discover Bulgari’s stunningly remodelled flagship store on Via Montenapoleone

NEWS 36 Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

10 QUESTIONS … 42

FEATURES CREAM OF THE CATWALKS 44 Milan Fashion Week showcases Italian designers’ distinctive and desirable interpretations of the season’s key trends. Virginie Morawski picks the spring/summer 2019 highlights Above (from top): a street-style look at Milan Fashion Week; tailoring in progress in the Ermenegildo Zegna atelier

PHOTO: (TOP) MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

… with Cesare Casadei, creative director of the covetable Casadei shoe brand

MILANO CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE CORSO XXII MARZO 4 CITY LIFE SHOPPING DISTRICT P.ZZA TRE TORRI 1 CENTRO COMM. CARREFOUR MILANOFIORI ASSAGO

MARELL A.COM

ROME STORIES VANESSA MOODY

FEATURES THE CUTTING EDGE 52

MILAN GUIDE 62

SOUVENIR 98

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Milan

The essential item to bring home

Italy’s top tailors are pushing the boundaries not only of style but also of technical innovation – and even tackling social and ethical issues. Ginger Rose Clark reports

HOW TO SHOP TAX FREE 84

TABLE TALK 58 The Milan fashion crowd has high standards, not least when it comes to restaurants. Rebecca Rhys-Evans picks a selection of the city’s most stylish eateries

The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS 86 中文翻译 89 Русский Перевод 92 日本語翻訳 ENG LISH | РУ СС КИЙ | 中文

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Above (top): Alberta Ferretti shoes make an ideal memento of Milan

PHOTOS: (TOP) VINCENZO PATRUNO; (BOTTOM) MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

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CROWNING GLORY For spring/summer 2019, Miuccia Prada put on a show inspired by the youth culture of the 1960s and 70s. A-line dresses, ladylike coats and dramatically feathered eyelashes all evoked the era; the star of the show, however, was undoubtedly the oversized Alice bands that accompanied each look. Presented for the new season in an abundance of colours including coral, lime and baby pink, this standout accessory is sure to fly off the shelves. Alongside simple satin designs, studs, leather, sequins and versions emblazoned with the Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

famous Prada logo are also available. For a real style statement, opt for one of the crystalembellished styles in black or soft peach; perfect when combined with a casual ensemble of jeans and a T-shirt to create a delightfully modern look. lt Prada headband, â&#x201A;Ź850, Prada, Via Montenapoleone 8, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 1771, prada.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

20 | P R O D U C T S

FEISTY FLORALS Punchy floral prints and bold accessories lend a tropical take to a time-honoured trend

Atelier Swarovski earrings, €449, Swarovski, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7209 4386, atelierswarovski.com

Furla bag, €270, Furla, Piazza del Duomo 31, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8909 6782, furla.com

Pinko dress, €345, Pinko, Via Montenapoleone 26, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7601 4184, pinko.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Santoni shoes, €790, Santoni, Via Montenapoleone 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7628 0508, santonishoes.com

PHOTOS: (DRESS) TOMMASO VECCHI; (SHOES) ROBERTO MAZZOLA

Damiani bracelet, €2,380, Damiani, Via Montenapoleone 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 8088, damiani.com

22 | P R O D U C T S

Tod’s bag, €1,200, Tod’s, Via della Spiga 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 2423, tods.com

Chloé bag, €1,590, Chloé, Via della Spiga 30, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3035 7401, chloe.com

HELLO SUNSHINE

Marni bag, €1,390, Marni, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7327, marni.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Delvaux bag, price on request, Delvaux, Palazzo Reina, Via Bagutta 10-12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 6923, delvaux.com

PHOTO: (CHLOÉ) STANISLAS WOLFF

Embrace spring/summer 2019’s must-have accessory hues with a stylish yellow or vibrant white handbag

PHOTOS: (ACNE STUDIOS) ACNE STUDIOS; (GUCCI) GIUSEPPE D’AMBROSIO

S H O P | 23

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Acne Studios bag, €550, Acne Studios, Piazze del Carmine 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8410 2383, acnestudios.com

Loewe bag, €1,250, Loewe, Via Montenapoleone 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7634 0533, loewe.com

Fendi bag, €2,300, Fendi, Via Montenapoleone 3, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 1617, fendi.com

Gucci bag, €4,900, Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, gucci.com

Burberry bag, €1,850, Burberry, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3601 0852, burberry.com

Ermanno Scervino bag, €1,990, Gio Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3186, ermannoscervino.com

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GO GREEN Green malachite is making a huge splash in the watch market this year, so it’s time to invest in a vivid dial

Piaget watch, €17,900, Piaget, Via Pietro Verri 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3216 4701, piaget.com

Dior watch, €13,000, Dior, Via Montenapoleone 12, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7801, dior.com

Chaumet watch, €13,120, Great Masters of Time, Corso Magenta 11, 20123 Milan, +39 02 7208 0537, chaumet.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Rado watch, €2,070, Cielo 1914, Piazza del Duomo 19, 20121 Milan, +39 02 874010, rado.com

PHOTO: (ROLEX) ROLEX

Rolex watch, €41,150, Rolex at Pisa Orologeria, Via Montenapoleone 24, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 7726, rolex.com

MILANO C.so V. Emanuele

(angolo Galleria S. Carlo)

Galleria V. Emanuele, 69 C.so Buenos Aires, 39

C.so Vercelli, 35 C.so Genova, 20 C.so XXII Marzo, 5

26 | P R O D U C T S

LADYLIKE LUXE DSquared2 sunglasses, €270, DSquared2, Via Pietro Verri 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8969 1699, dsquared2.com

Prim and proper styles make a comeback this season – top off the look with a glistening headband and grown-up black heels

Miu Miu headband, €390, Miu Miu, Via Saint’Andrea 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 1799, miumiu.com

Elena Ghisellini bag, €390, Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, elenaghisellini.com

Red Valentino dress, €857, Red Valentino, Corso Venezia 6, 20121 Milan, +39 02 3675 6030, redvalentino.com

SHOP Highlight in paid partnership with Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello shoes, €825, Saint Laurent, Via Sant’Andrea 21, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0573, ysl.com

PHOTO: (SHOES) THEBEHRENS.NYC

SHOP HIGHLIGHT

28 | P R O D U C T S

MONOCHROME MIX A bold striped suit with classic luxury accessories will see you through from day to night

Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet, €4,950, Van Cleef & Arpels, Via Montenapoleone 10, 20121 Milan, +39 02 776 7951, vancleefarpels.com

Escada Sport blazer, €549, Escada, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0753, escada.com

Celine by Hedi Slimane bag, €2,300, Celine, Via Montenapoleone 25/2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7788 5900, celine.com

Manolo Blahnik shoes, €730, 10 Corso Como, Corso Como 10, 20154 Milan, +39 02 654831, manoloblahnik.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Escada Sport trousers, €379, Escada, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 22, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 0753, escada.com

30 | P R O D U C T S

SUMMER STYLE

Stylish pastel tailoring and a statement short-sleeved shirt are a winning combination for spring/summer 2019

Borsalino hat, €195, Borsalino, Via Sant’Andrea 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8646 3028, borsalino.com

Ray-Ban sunglasses, €162, Ray-Ban, Piazza San Babila 3, 20122 Milan, +39 02 7600 3569, ray-ban.com

Etro shirt, €355, Etro, Via Montenapoleone 5, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 5049, etro.com

Church’s shoes, €550, Church’s, Via Sant’Andrea 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 8794, church-footwear.com

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Hackett trousers, €150, Rinascente, Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan, +39 02 88521, hackett.com

STREET STYLE A neutral palette and a healthy dose of animal prints were the looks of the season for Milanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s street-style set. Mixing feminine shapes and moderate hemlines with real Italian glamour was the order of business, while each look was topped off with a standout pair of designer shades.

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

S H O P | 33

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SHOP WINDOW

BULGARI’S MILANESE REVIVAL Bulgari’s recently refreshed Milan flagship pays tribute to 1930s design and to that of notable Italian architect Piero Portaluppi in particular. Inspired by Portaluppi’s greatest achievement, Villa Necchi Campiglio, the updated store features a diamond motif on the dividing walls and geometric patterned marble floors, as well as a captivating winter garden. Bulgari’s covetable jewellery and accessories are elevated by the refined surroundings, which echo the brand’s stores in New York and Rome. Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Milanese furniture, including chairs by Ico Parisi and tables by Mangiarotti, provide areas in which to pause and consider potential purchases. Masterminded by Peter Marino, Bulgari’s reinvented Milan boutique is somewhere you’ll long to linger. sm Bulgari, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777001, bulgari.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

LARDINI FLAGSHIP STORE · VIA GESÙ, 21 LARDINI FLAGSHIP STORE · VIA GESÙ, 21

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IN FULL FIG Culti Milano recently added the new Oficus fragrance to its range of diffusers. A celebration of the fig, it combines the fruit’s green element with notes of vanilla and sandalwood. Oficus is available in various sizes, including the pictured 1,000ml. The Milanese brand’s offering also encompasses a range of wonderfully scented candles, sprays, soaps and more – this latest addition makes a great olfactory souvenir. grc Culti Milano, Via Fiori Chiari 6, 20122 Milan, +39 02 3655 3875, culti.com

Only Moschino could take the concept of an unfinished collection and turn it into fashion gold. Jeremy Scott’s latest range pokes fun at the fast-paced fashion industry in a series of eminently wearable looks that are pure fashion theatre. From skirts decked with pussy bows and suit jackets featuring colourful scribble to hand-drawn floral prints that evoke 80s nostalgia, our favourite looks strike the perfect balance between fun and feasibility. It wouldn’t be Moschino without a few out-there options and the measuring tape and scissor gowns are definitely high drama. sm Moschino, Via Sant’Andrea 25, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7602 2639, moschino.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 70 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

PHOTO: (RIGHT) CARLO SCARPATO XXXXXXX

WORK IN PROGRESS

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BY WOMEN, FOR WOMEN Milan’s fashion district recently welcomed a new store from Antonelli Firenze, the Tuscan label’s first flagship. Bringing its own brand of elegant femininity to Milan, the boutique blends white leather furniture and grey oak herringbone floors with sleek garment display areas which frame the clothes as though they were pieces of art. The Tuscan brand, which began in the 1950s as a producer of lingerie, was reinvented in 2001, with sisters Enrica and Roberta Antonelli initially updating the shirt for a discerning new generation. With a commitment to sumptuous materials and stunning silhouettes, Antonelli Firenze is proud to create looks that are made in Italy ‘by women, for women’. sm Antonelli Firenze, Corso Venezia 12, 20122 Milan, +39 02 2506 2210, antonellifirenze.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69

BOTANICAL BEAUTY When Italian painter, sculptor and interior decorator Piero Fornasetti first used opera soprano Lina Cavalieri’s face as a motif on a range of homeware pieces, both their fates were sealed as icons of Italian interior design. What many, however, don’t know is that Fornasetti was also inspired by nature, and the brand’s latest collection pays homage to the botanical beauty that he loved. Fornasetti’s Coromandel collection spans furniture and accessories, including unique pieces by Barnaba Fornasetti, the founder’s son and the brand’s creative director, making the perfect piece of Italian design to take home. rp Fornasetti, Corso Venezia 21A, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8416 1374, fornasetti.com

PHOTO: (LEFT) STEFANO BIDINI

FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69

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38 | N E W S

SET FOR SUCCESS In September last year, Twinset Milano opened a new flagship in Milan, the brand’s fourth store in the city. Founded as a knitwear company, Twinset Milano’s offering now spans a full wardrobe with everything from clothing and underwear, through to footwear and bags. With a sleek look, the new boutique perfectly encapsulates the brand’s identity, making it the perfect place to shop the covetable spring/summer 2019 collections. grc Twinset Milano, Galleria Passarella, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 20122 Milan, +39 02 2336 9085, twinset.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 68

50 YEARS OF STYLE Founded in Legnano in 1969, Aspesi celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. Timeless style and use of high-quality materials form the backbone of Aspesi’s designs, two signature traits that can be found in the spring/summer 2019 range. Linen blends, recycled cotton, and light poplin are among the fabrics used across the shirts, trousers, dresses and skirts in the collection. March 2019 saw the opening of the brand’s new Milan flagship, perfectly timed for the anniversary. Like all of Aspesi’s other flagship stores, it is an elegant setting for the brand’s sophisticated designs, such as this dreamy printed silk chiffon dress (€2,660). grc

Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

Aspesi, Via San Pietro all’Orto 24, 20121 Milan, aspesi.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 68

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BEST SHOT Late 2018 saw the opening of an official National Basketball Association store in Milan. Located in Galleria Passarella, the NBA store benefits from a central location in one of the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s key shopping areas. Watch screenings of matches displayed on giant screens while shopping jerseys from the Eastern and Western Conference teams, T-shirts, footwear, headwear and more. Reminiscent in design of the New York store, this is the first official NBA store in Europe and only the third in the world, making it a must-visit for fans of basketball. grc NBA, Galleria Passarella, 20122 Milan, nba.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69

The sustainability trend is crucial in the current climate and Yatay has created a range of eco-friendly footwear that is cool as well as being conscious. Crafted by hand in Italy from recycled fabric, vegetable oil derivatives, cotton and water-based glue, Yatay trainers, such as the pictured styles (â&#x201A;Ź240), are made using a process that cuts CO2 emissions by 80% compared to standard manufacturing technology. Materials are dyed using non-toxic colouring agents and the trainers are even packaged in boxes made from recycled plastic bottles. Thanks to a partnership with One Tree Planted, for every pair of shoes sold Yatay will plant a tree in an area of deforestation. Guilt-free shoes have never looked so good. sm Gio Moretti, Via della Spiga 4, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3186, yatayatay.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 73 Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

PHOTO: (TOP) FABRIZIO FORTE

ONE TO WATCH: YATAY

WE ARE MANKIND

MILAN – VIA MANZONI 43 – T. +39 02 49504363 W W W.7 FO R A L LM A NKI N D.C O M

10 QUESTIONS ...WITH CESARE CASADEI A stalwart of the Italian fashion scene for over 60 years, Casadei creates some of the most beautiful shoes in the world. Lucinda Turner caught up with the creative director of the family-run business to ask about its prestigious past, exciting future and finding inspiration in the everyday

HOW IMPORTANT IS THE MADE IN ITALY BENCHMARK OF QUALITY TO THE BRAND TODAY? For our company, Made in Italy means quality, innovation, research, design, craftsmanship and so much more. Casadei’s roots were consolidated in high-class artisanal tradition.

WHAT SETS CASADEI APART FROM OTHER ITALIAN FOOTWEAR BRANDS? To me, Casadei has two souls: one lies underneath the shoes, one is the heart we pour into making them. This bond and deep connection is what has made our shoes special, through the decades and the fashion trends.

HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE CASADEI WOMAN? Cosmopolitan. Versatile. Ageless. The Casadei woman transcends traditional categories.

WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR NEW DESIGNS EACH SEASON? My inspiration could easily come from watching the world that surrounds me – the one I live every day and that I personally experience.

The Blade heel perfectly balances feminity and design Above (from top): Cesare Casadei with the brand’s iconic Blade heel; a variety of looks from Casadei spring/summer 2019

PHOTO: (TOP) ULI WEBER

HOW HAS THE BRAND CHANGED SINCE IT WAS FOUNDED? My parents founded the company in 1958, in San Mauro Pascoli. I entered in 1994 as creative director, after years of managing and experimenting with my own line, YDW. My goal was to merge the pioneers of Made in Italy craftsmanship and promote the image of the brand on an international level.

WHICH SHOE ARE YOU MOST EXCITED ABOUT FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2019? It’s very hard to pick, but I would say the Futura, inspired by the experimental attitude of the 60s.

HOW DO YOU DECIDE ON THE NAME OF EACH SHOE? I name every style after the vibe, the inspiration, the idea, the link that shoe automatically pops into my mind. It’s the fluid association of my creative process expressed in words.

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) MARCO LAMBRI

WHY DO YOU THINK THE BLADE HEEL HAS BECOME SO ICONIC? The Blade embodies the perfect balance between femininity and design. I think that its global success is due to its highly recognisable heel, which is like a trademark. What I love about

the Blade is that women from across the world can style it according to their personalities, yet you can tell from afar who designed that shoe. It’s a style that fits each personality, that breaks the traditional boundaries.

HOW IMPORTANT IS THE PHYSICAL RETAIL SPACE IN MILAN? Milano is the current fashion capital. It incorporates luxury, art, business, gastronomy and culture – it’s the perfect place for fashionistas and industry enthusiasts.

10.

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD FOR CASADEI? With 25 flagship stores, Casadei is expanding in China. We recently opened in Doha, as well as a corner at Rinascente Turin. In 2015 the brand unveiled its new store concept in Rome and then in Milan, followed by the 120-squaremetre boutique in the exclusive Albemarle Street, in Mayfair, London. Casadei is currently working to reinforce its visibility worldwide. Casadei, Via Sant’Andrea 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7631 8293, casadei.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 70

Above (from top): Casadei design sketches; Casadei spring/summer 2019

PHOTO: ALESSANDRO GAROFALO

Milan Fashion Week showcases Italian designers’ distinctive and desirable interpretations of the season’s key trends. Virginie Morawski picks the spring/ summer 2019 highlights

CREAM OF THE CATWALKS

Below: Max Mara spring/summer 2019

Italian style wins us over with its combination of allure, sophistication and pizzazz

86 92

PHOTOS: (TOP) ALESSANDRO GAROFALO; (BOTTOM): GORUNWAY.COM

talian designers are famous for imagination, elegance and flair, and for spring/summer 2019, the labels on the Milan Fashion Week schedule incorporated the main trends of the season in some remarkable ways. A preference for nude tones was a common thread shared by many brands at Milan Fashion Week. Max Mara has championed camel for decades, so it comes as no surprise that it was one of the key drivers of the tonal trend for this spring/summer: worn head to toe, the Max Mara palette spanned beige and camel through to deeper browns. At Fendi the nude tones were applied to safari trousers as well as to feminine dresses and skirts. Salvatore Ferragamo used nudes for utilitarian pieces such as dungarees and ponchos, as well as for tailoring. While neutral nudes were a recurring catwalk colour scheme, that didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mean brands were shy about using colour. Some opted for a kaleidoscopic effect, including Versace, which juxtaposed a multitude of clashing prints and patterns in single pieces. Other brands opted for the slightly edgier tie-dye, seen on a T-shirt dress at No21, on one of this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most iconic bags at Prada and on denim at MSGM. But if you have to choose only one shade to Above (from top): Max Mara; Fendi, both spring/summer 2019

PHOTOS: (BOTH TOP): GORUNWAY.COM; (BOTTOM) IMF STEPHEN JAFFE

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invest in for spring/summer this year, make it yellow. A perfect hue for summer, it was presented in all shades: vibrant chartreuse at Versace, bumblebee at Max Mara, more muted ochres and mustards at Agnona, and the palest chiffon hues at Alberta Ferretti. Fitness has been a driving theme for several seasons, and brands continued to incorporate activewear into high-fashion collections. Swimwear was a strong contender: Etro was inspired by the Pacific coast to the point of sending professional surfers down the catwalk, Sportmax also drew on surf in sequined rash guards and in crochet bikini tops and bottoms worn with tailoring, while Moschinoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s swimsuits were defined by the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature tongue-in-cheek spirit. Those who prefer to eschew beach and pool get-up might prefer cycling shorts. At Jil Sander shorts were part of an exploration of the concept of uniform and its ties to athletics and performance. At Roberto Cavalli, creative director Paul Surridge touched on notions of the power and energy of the body in a collection that also featured cycling shorts. Overall, designers channelled a sophisticated take on activewear, with references that felt like a celebration of the body. Above (clockwise from left): Versace; Etro; Sportmax, all spring/summer 2019

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elegant: the tonal colour scheme served to accentuate chic silhouettes. MSGM and Prada offered some playful options in the form of bow-adorned designs and dresses made from oversized sequins or feathers. Over the past couple of seasons there has been a strong focus on sleeves, and this came into full force in spring/summer 2019â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautiful dresses. Sleeves were based on asymmetric constructions, namely single sleeves or straps. Max Mara, Versace, and MSGM were just some of the names to present variations on single-sleeve designs.

PHOTOS: GORUNWAY.COM

In a push away from previously omnipresent streetwear, brands orchestrated a return to feminine dressing. Long dresses, elegant silhouettes and beautiful details were just some of the design elements adopted by brands for spring/summer 2019. Dresses formed the backbone of the Marni collection, from Grecian-style pieces to 1950s-inspired shapes. Moschinoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dresses were defined by a bold 80s aesthetic. Gucci left clients spoiled for choice with a wide range of finishes on dresses, from floral prints to metallic fabrics to fringing. The entire Max Mara collection was supremely

Above (from left): Marni; Moschino, both spring/summer 2019

SHOP PESERICO.IT

PESERICO BOUTIQUE MILANO Via Solferino, 3

A week or so before Paris Fashion Week made headlines for spelling out the end of the Phoebe Philo era at Celine, Milan Fashion Week laid the foundations for plenty of alternatives when it comes to chic, minimalist dressing. Luke and Lucie Meier, the creative duo at Jil Sander, opted for a pared-back aesthetic that centred on the idea of uniform in structured, boxy shapes. Agnona’s Simon Holloway, who was inspired by the wardrobe of artist Joan Jonas, played with volume in simple, elongated silhouettes: trenches, tunics, dresses, ponchos were worn layered, sometimes belted, other times loose in a collection defined by its poised nonchalance. Salvatore Ferragamo also verged on minimalist chic, with a strong focus on cut: simple tailoring as well as sleek leather twopiece outfits and dresses came together to form a collection that was mature as it was elegant. Finish your spring/summer 2019 look with key accessories from Milan Fashion Week, including Fendi’s belt bags, Prada’s tie-dye bag or Sportmax’s bucket hats. Alternatively, opt for woven bags or shoes, an important trend for the season: Alberta Ferretti’s basket bag and Salvatore Ferragamo’s woven footwear, inspired by the house’s archive, are among the season’s highlights. As Milan Fashion Week proves time and time again, Italian style continues to win us over, for its combination of sophistication and allure with unashamed pizzazz Above (from left): Jil Sander; Alberta Ferretti, both spring/summer 2019

PHOTOS: (LEFT) MONICA FEUDI; (RIGHT) GORUNWAY.COM

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THE CUTTING EDGE Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top tailors are pushing the boundaries not only of style but also of technical innovation â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and even tackling social and ethical issues. Ginger Rose Clark reports Right: tailoring in progress in the Ermenegildo Zegna atelier

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ailoring with a twist is the new wardrobe must-have for gentlemen, as the spring/summer 2019 collections play enticingly with innovative fabrics and cuts. ‘The suit continues to be a man’s “uniform” par excellence, but the new rules of elegance permit a new interpretation,’ says Corneliani’s style director Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte, who uses silk in myriad ways this season for the brand’s collection. The brands experimenting with fabrics and fabric treatments include Boglioli, known for its garment-dyed jackets. ‘A special garment-dye process was developed to enhance the process that Boglioli is known for,’ explains Camille Hopp, assistant merchandiser. ‘This process creates a solaro effect.’ (Solaro fabrics have a subtly iridescent finish.) Working within the elegant remit that defines Italian tailoring still permits plenty of room for experimentation. Gianluca Isaia, CEO of Isaia, explains the approach. ‘We take what inspires us from all over the world and incorporate certain cuts and silhouettes that are reflective of how the modern gentleman dresses, without abandoning our identity.’ This play with fabric and cut is enabled by the business model of many of Italy’s larger tailoring brands, including Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana. These are vertically integrated: in other words, they control every stage of the process, from production of the raw materials to the final details of the finished garment. For example, Ermenegildo Zegna started out as Lanificio Zegna, a wool mill located near Biella in Italy: over the years it gradually expanded to span everything from raw materials through to ready-to-wear and bespoke offerings. Having everything under one roof gives the company easy access to the finest materials as well as plenty of scope for research and development. Demand is one of the key drivers of change. Tramonte highlights how the typical tailoring customer has evolved over time. ‘In the last 20 years, many things have changed in men’s fashion,’ he says. ‘Today there is no longer an age cluster you can refer to; it’s about social environment and about culture. Furthermore, the habits of men have changed, and everybody wants to be more casual on most occasions.’

Above: Boglioli spring/summer 2019

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Brands have had to come to terms with the fact that men today have a different relationship with their wardrobe to that of previous generations; as a result, travel, technology and modern lifestyle now enter into the equation when designing suits for men. In response, Isaia’s spring/summer collection features seersucker jackets that don’t need ironing. This style was born out of Gianluca Isaia’s own schedule, which mirrors that of many of his peers. ‘I essentially live on a plane, so what I travel with and wear has to be made to fit my jet-set lifestyle,’ he notes. ‘Seersucker is a fantastic fabric for this reason. For spring/ summer 2019 we have a seersucker tuxedo which I also sometimes wear with a T-shirt, to give a more relaxed feel.’ The Aquaspider is another of the brand’s most popular travel fabrics. ‘These fabrics not only travel well, but are liquid resistant, so if someone spills a drink on you, the liquid beads off and does not get the garment wet,’ explains Gianluca Isaia. Every aspect of contemporary daily life has to be taken into consideration and Canali has managed to incorporate many of these requirements into its Impeccabile 2.0 line of garments, which includes suits, coats and Above (from top): Ermenegildo Zegna started out as Lanificio Zegna, a wool mill located near Biella; Canali Impeccabile 2.0 line

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shirts, all made from breathable fabrics with a natural stretch that are resistant to creasing, water and stains. As lifestyles have become increasingly linked to all things digital, brands are investigating new possibilities. For spring/ summer Corneliani has unveiled the Connected Style capsule collection of two outerwear pieces and two bags that allow the wearer to wirelessly recharge a mobile phone in an internal pocket that features special inbuilt technology. Faced with a globetrotting customer who is well-informed and wealthy, designs such as Connected Style are a way to capture the attention of this worldly gentleman, as Tramonte explains. ‘Our mission is to try to talk to him with the right language and give him evidence of the evolution of our product. Quality and elegance are a given,’ he says. ‘We need to tell him a real story that can convince him to choose us. Today the requirement is to offer something that the customer does not have in his closet – in terms of style but mainly in terms of function.’ When it comes to innovation and change, sustainability also provides a framework in which to innovate. For example, Etro’s spring/summer 2019 collection for men centres heavily on sustainable fabrics, made locally from natural fibres such as nettle and jute, coloured with vegetable dyes. But the desire to do good doesn’t stop there and many tailoring companies are instigating change on an even larger scale. Above (from left): Corneliani Connected Style collection; Etro spring/summer 2019

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The Fondazione Zegnaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mission is fourfold: preserving environmental and cultural resources, fostering sustainable development in local communities, supporting scientific research and providing education for young people. This is complemented by Oasi Zegna, a public park covering 100 square kilometres in the Biella Alps, established by the brand as an environmental project in the region where the Zegna mill is still located. The Fondazione Canali Onlus engages in projects spanning medical research, healthcare, social assistance, employment and education. While ethics have only recently become an important dimension to the fashion industry, tailoring brands were among the first to

understand the importance of tackling societal and environmental issues: brands such as Ermenegildo Zegna and Brunello Cucinelli have been implementing ethical and sustainable structures for years, making them true pioneers of conscious fashion. Despite being anchored in tradition, suiting has become a canvas for new ideas, thorough research and boundary-pushing technology. This innovation is part of a holistic approach: brands invest as much in cutting-edge ideas relating to fabrics and cut as they do in developing business models and large-scale social, ethical or sustainable projects. Keen to do good across the board, Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tailoring companies have their eyes firmly trained on the future

Above: Oasi Zegna, a hundred-square-kilometre public park in the Biella Alps

PHOTO: ÂŠ MATTIAS KLUM

Brands are investing in cutting-edge ideas relating to fabrics and cut, and developing social, ethical and sustainable projects

TABLE TALK The Milan fashion crowd has high standards, not least when it comes to restaurants. Rebecca Rhys-Evans selects some of the city’s most stylish eateries

Whether you’re visiting Milan for fashion week or enjoying a weekend city break, the city’s reputation as a fashion capital always shines through. Milan is not only a hotspot for shopping the latest luxury fashion, it is also home to an array of eateries known as the fashion crowd’s favourite haunts. Our selection includes a restaurant housed in a majestic neoclassical palace and a rooftop bar that sits above the headquarters of fashion royalty. At Milan’s coolest places to eat and drink you’ll feel as though you’re front row every time you sit down for a bite. globalblue.com

PHOTO: MANUEL COEN STUDIO

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LÙBAR An establishment known for its impressive interiors, LùBar’s tranquil botanical wonderland is a quiet yet vibrant oasis that lets you escape the hustle and bustle of the city. In keeping with the city’s reputation as Italy’s fashion capital, LùBar hosts many fashionrelated events throughout the year, especially during Milan Fashion Week, where the space has served as a catwalk for the mother of the three founders, designer Luisa Beccaria. Set in the stunning neoclassical Villa Reale, also home to Milan’s Galleria d’Arte Moderna, the space encapsulates beauty, opulence and creativity in its very walls. Although the family are Milanese, they have Sicilian roots, and have brought some traditional Sicilian charm to the menu with a street-food element. A venue for all occasions, LùBar has the atmosphere of a typically chic Mediterranean bistro and also comprises a patisserie and bar, making it a comfortable and colourful little palace for breakfast, lunch or dinner. LùBar, Via Palestro 16, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8352 7769, lubar.it

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CARLO E CAMILLA Carlo e Camilla is so stylish and enticing that you spend most of your time here with eyes wide, drinking in as much of the atmosphere, decor and people as possible. Described by its owners as ‘exclusive but informal’, Carlo e Camilla is set in a striking former sawmill built in 1929. The vast, bare plaster walls and expansive industrial ceilings lend a cool, contemporary contrast to the warm and friendly vibe provided by the service and general atmosphere. Grand chandeliers hang over long benches and the food is as alluring as the interior design. A seasonal menu offers traditional Italian gastronomy with modern, scrumptious twists, pigeon beast served with Jerusalem artichokes being a house favourite. The cocktail bar, regularly reserved for fashion events, is always filled with a stylish crowd of Milan’s trendiest locals and international visitors. There is also a beautiful courtyard to enjoy in the summer. Carlo e Camilla, Via Giuseppe Meda 24, 20136 Milan, +39 02 837 3963, carloecamillainsegheria.it

If you’re looking for a traditional trattoria with a contemporary twist, Drogheria is the place to be. It’s a firm favourite with influencers such as Chiara Ferragni – one of the world’s most powerful influencers, who just happens to be Italian, so you can’t go wrong if you’re hunting for a spot that has Instagram fame. The atmosphere is relaxed and there are many regional Italian dishes to choose from that are perfect for sharing, as well as a good range of Italian wines. If you’re visiting in summer, outdoor seating means you can soak in the Italian sunshine over your arancini and tonnarelli alla carbonara. But possibly the best thing about Drogheria is its delicatessen, which allows you to take the best ingredients home with you. There are three Drogheria branches in the city; we list the central Carrobbio branch. Drogheria Milanese, Via Conca del Naviglio 7, 20123 Milan, +39 02 5811 4843, drogheriemilanesi.it globalblue.com

PHOTO: (TOP) CHICO DE LUIGI

DROGHERIA MILANESE

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Milan with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from top fashion boutiques to a relaxing spa. Don’t miss the ancient Sant’Ambrogio basilica (pictured). Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/milan.

PHOTO: DIMITRISVETSIKIS1969 CC0 CREATIVE COMMONS

MILAN GUIDE

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Alberta Ferretti Make a purchase from Milan’s go-to designer for all things irresistibly beautiful, feminine and ethereal. Alberta Ferretti, Via Montenapoleone 18, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3095,

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● LIBERO MILANO ● NATUZZI ● CASSINA

Brian & Barry Building San Babila

● GALLO ● SMOKE

MERITALIA ●

● MARGHERITA ● JUVENTUS STORE

CORSO EUROPA ● EMPORIO CASA

VIA ANSELMO RONCHETTI

NORTH SAILS ● LUXURY LIVING ●

ITTALA ●

ARTEM IDE ● FONTA NA ARTE ●

VI A PAT TA

● GUESS VI A BORGOG N A

JOAQUIN BERAO ●

● SUITSU PPLY ● ICF ● SAN BABILA GIOIEL LI

STONE FLY ●

PAUL TAYLOR ● MYPOS ●

IAN

’O R ALL

P.40 NBA ● TIMBERLAND ● TRUSSARDI JEANS ●

DEL MARE ●

DE PADOVA ●

TRO

Piazza San Carlo

AVIREX ●

O N FO RT

● LEGO ● SALMOIRAGHI VIGANÒ ● EDDY MONETTI ● RAY-BAN ● FLORSHEIM ● BROSWAY Piazza ● BOGGI San Babila ● NESPRESSO ● BALDININI TREND ● MAZZOLARI ● CAMICISSIMA ● VANNUCCI ● DIESEL MILANO OFFICIAL ● STORE

P IE

IO E

CO R S O M

SAN BABILA

INTER STORE MILANO ● BOGGI ● MIROR ●

SAN

PA O

TO R

EO TT I

● ESCADA ● JUST CAVALLI

● UNIFOR ● RODO ● MORONI GOMMA

V IA

SAN

VIT

BOSS STORE ● ROBERTO FESTA ●

Sant'Ambroeus Bar

MAZZOLARI ● TIMBERLAND ● TUMI ●

VIA

RSO

N MA

● BORBONESE

CO RS O MATT

E UEL

VIA

HARMONT & BLAINE ●

FERUTDIN ZAKIROV ●

DE MATTIA ● PASABAHCE ● PIKENZ ● JECKERSON ● GRAVATI ● SARA GIUNTI ● ALVIERO MARTINI ●

DODO ● FABBRICA PELLETTERIE MILANO ●

AB RR

OS RG BO

A VI

SÙ

● ANTICHITÀ PIVA & C.

Piazza Meda

TO NA

● NELLA LONGARI ● ULTURALE ● BEHOUSE ● D MAGAZINE ● ASPESI

. VE VIA P

● BIGLI 24 ● CODECASA GIOIELLI LA CARAMELLA ● D'ORO CLOTH ● DORMEUIL

O NT

70 | M I L A N G U I D E

MONTENAPOLEONE AREA Via Sant’Andrea, Via Pietro Verri & Piazza Meda, Via Gesù, Via Borgospesso & Via Santo Spirito A IG

● MONTEGRAPPA ● FABBRICATORE ● SCHREIBER ● PORADA TURRI ● ● INBORGOSPESSO 18 ● CORNELIO CAPPELLINI BOTTEGA VENETA ● GALLUCCI HOME ● ● ALTOMANI & SONS ● MAISON SIBULET Drogheria ● GALLERIA SILVA LOUIS MICHAIL Parini ● TOP TIME MUSA ● MALVEZZI ● SOLO BLU

VERSACE HOME ●

MODICA MILANO ● GREYMER ● BE AROUND ●

MI.MI.SOL. ●

JF LONDON ● RO OTTICA S.SPIRITO ● SSA AGRESTI ● RI WALTER PADOVANI BALENCIAGA ● ● ANTIQUARIO ISABEL MARANT ● ● DAAD DANTONE ANTIQUARIATO BENSI ● CARLO TIVIOLI O ●● ANDREA GHELLI ● T NEIL BARRETT I GIORGIO JANEKE ● I R ● DROME GIANVITO ROSSI ● S P ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE O ● PAROSH BALLIN ● Global Blue Lounge N T● IL BISONTE SÙ GE S A● N° 21 A CHANTECLER ● A VI I STELLA V ● MANDELLI MCCARTNEY ● NI

ROBERTO DEL CARLO ●

SÙ

SS PE OS

VIA

● BALLANTYNE

IA EZ EN

● ALMINI

VILLA NECCHI CAMPIGLIO

LLA NI ●

Piazza Meda

PRI

STE

S VIA

O TR

T ’A

R IN

MONTENAPOLEONE

LARDINI ● BARBA NAPOLI ● CAIATI FINE ARTS ● ORIENTAL ART ● MARINO FOSSATI ● DOUCAL'S ● ROSALBA ● KITON ● SILVANO LATTANZI ● LUCIANO BARBERA ● Ù BARRETT ● ES TINCATI ● DORIANI CASHMERE ● I A G ZILLI ● V STEFANO RICCI ● MIMÌ ● RUBINACCI ● GOYARD ● ACQUA DI PARMA ●

Piazza Croce Rossa

● I O UT R IN ● RL DE CH A B E A N Y TA OS AD M ● L S AV M I A R S TA ● PR T JI N RE M TIS 6 ● ● P & T EN .3 RA TO P IU ● ● M RM B A L I Z U UR NA ● IA AL A Z L L A IU M EL SE T V G U E ● A M IN OD S VI ● AQ A N N M ND ● SA ● CH IS T MA E R A A ● IR AR TZ R P P B R VIE IG ● NE LI I A ● U I E SP I E V A I RY ● ET NI ST W NN OM W H T R P O LL XU G E VEN N A ● ● BA A R E IOT B O DE TH BR A LU RO ● E S AC R A I ● A NO ’S ● VI C P IA IAN 70 LA EG AG R C H H Y IL ● CH R TT U C OV ● DO CH EN ● BO ● V C A TA RI GI ● I UT TE A ● ● AG O N EU IEL O ● IA AB S VI EL G IS OR O AR LIN M M A E ● ● RL M M A N RS E CA O ● LL SO BO PR SI ES Y ON T AI TO M LE ER M ● LE GE ’OR A J I MO O ● ALL P O P I CCI D E R TRO ● P IE CH DEI N A N EN GU SA N V IA ● E X AQUE SA TE CA ON E ● AL MC M IPP A ● ● NI 2 ER IA IL IS A ● I O P.4 ND V PH -P RI I ● BR S A DY I N A K TIN E M ● T 2 TE N OG FU JIL D ● FRE AR RED PA S TA R O L R O M A P N I O ● U LA LI IN CO A RO Q G S ● I T I S ● AD G D AB ON P E VI ● PA L ER Y ● ER C EB RI ● CH IC ENN DE E VA G IE LL FR MA ● ● RD FO T ● M PE ● TO U LI LO LI AO J NP NA SA CA VIA INI ● DIN BAL Y● NT ● VE EL E T T ICO OO

VIA

I PI

E TÀ

● ATTOLINI ● ISSEY MIYAKE ● DELVAUX ZANELLATO ● ● L’ARTISAN PARFUMEU R OLD AMERICA ● ● MR & MRS ITALY

COR SO MAT TEO

TTI

CO RS O MO

NF OR TE

SAN BABILA

Piazza San Carlo

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

Metro

Global Blue Lounge

Restaurant

Piazza San Babila

Featured In This Issue

time is pisa

the leading retailer for watch lovers

pisa orologeria boutique rolex via montenapoleone 24, milano

pisa orologeria boutique hublot via verri 7, milano

pisa orologeria flagship store via verri 7, milano

pisa orologeria boutique a. lange & sรถhne via verri 7, milano

pisaorologeria.com

pisa orologeria boutique patek philippe via verri 9, milan0

pisa orologeria boutique vacheron constantin via verri 9, milan0

72 | M I L A N G U I D E

DA M

8 P.9

TO NA

VI A SP

NI ZO AN

R IN

T ET

O NT RR FE CI TA AC R IN E I● M LB O UB I N E ●● A R L V L IN O ● ● MA NO SÙ S AC E L S C C H I ● IA ● 14 GE K A FU T IN ● AR NE VI R O WA I N G A N ● M AR L S LD IA LI I ● E SH EO E ● I L G C T ● RT & L A PO BA EN ICH L A IN I ● AN CA UL R A L E EL LE R ● S ● PA P E T E N B AN I R C C P P L I E L L ● EL E ER I ● ● L A ON ÈS L U U P O I B I E RP ● M RM NI B R H I L I O I K R R N Z Z E ●● Y &A ● HE AR A R 6 P I G V I H E AVA EW H ● L A ● M OR BER EEF S D E V G LO AC T ● P.3 RE HE N ● DI R CL O CU ND IC CO DE UET N ’A BI ● BU N NI M T G N A G 8 SI F ● ● VA N I AN PE RE NI S O P.1 D E ● VE DE B ﬀ è AT A ●● I A VIA TI E ● IN a ELL IADIEL ● AM A N OT B LU C IA S D ’ ● G M R a L N y M U D E v O A D ● A I l l PO C TO A C IT C o A WP E Z A N i D P ED R S e s N ●● LI R A SE I R VE c h E L I A I AL P G L U a r G U M EVER R I ● N I AV ● GI DE DI O C M E O O E ● N ● A F B T ● r i a Y ETR IA CI ● BB RT R UE c e R PI S M U C O SA B E E I N IG NA ic EN VIA RU G E T R I E ● ● ● RO MP ON MA S P BA st H A NT A R B IC N ● I LA ● a C A M A P AN ● SA AD M A & G CA OG RNO A ● M ● PR DE E AR ON R A H HE AS DI ● U LC ● A A ● O T N I C EN O 4 ● DO RGI IT P.3 ND F AM ER ● ● ● O VU G L C S FE GI UI RI R A NC IW Z Z A ● O A R ● O L VI A ● LG FE M ● E RA LL E BU Piazza A BE R I ● O R .74 ● MAT T EOTT I T T N A U LT R A I ● AT P Meda CO RS O E V N O E T L ON A C N T SA M Y L E PA S E SI B ER- N E OS SAN G ICI LI R E JA O FF T EL Piazza A San Babila FR

V IA

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E NT

EG IL D B L TT M O C B O Z ALL EG O N U C A L EG Y ● SE LO A T IN M A N EM RG R VE B L EL IN A ● O IL IO P NE AN LI ● IO R IA T C ● V ● IA PU OS NA A ● ● ● F MA CC SI ● ● C O A L N ZO P I R CO I ●● NI NK N N ● ● R O ELI ER AN I ● GI OL VE US EX I TR EP BO ● E P U SA V RI E T ● VA LVA I A B O E D Z A NI Q U TO RG I E O E LE R E OS M P T T P I NT I IN FE PES OL DE SA O R R SO I SI GN AG AM O

Via Montenapoleone

E Z IA

V IA

TRO

P IE

VIA

SAN

CO RS O MO

BABILA

’O R ALL

Piazza San Carlo

LOUIS VUITTON Louis Vuitton’s story started in Paris in 1854 with luxury luggage, and it is now one of the world’s most popular luxury brands. Staying true to its heritage, it continues to bring elegance to travel – the brand’s iconic logo-embossed print is still seen on many of its accessories. For spring/summer 2019, Louis Vuitton is the epitome of innovation and style, presenting a collection inspired by the 1980s; think shoulder pads, relaxed tailoring and geometric prints in bold colours. Louis Vuitton, Via Montenapoleone 2, 20121 Milan, +39 02 777 1711, louisvuitton.com Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Café

Restaurant

Metro

Featured In This Issue

NF OR TE

S H O P | 73

SPIGA & VIA MANZONI AREA Via della Spiga

E L L’

N EF

R AT

ELLI

AT E B E

V IA D

V IA F

V I A PA L E S T R

IATA

VIA DEI GIA R DINI

UNC

S NA RI SA LE NE LI AL PIO O A N Y B M CC H VI AD ON T SE RO ART EL M ET A VE ZE ● PR Z Z BA T B CC N O A N E HI ● P I CC A I R O I F PO ● RO 2 S U P E I ● LI IN EL A ● MC ND LIN TE N ● I R I I CN U O ● A O R L O I ● G Q IC L D C RE H R E ’OR S ● E O U C A ● R C R OO NI M A TI B D B LO BO ● E ● M IA N ON E T OT PI L L LO Y M RO I B O D V E ● G IS ON B IP ● L T O L A A ● M RM T FI N ● S CO U O HE LA ● CA ● SE BER NA IO IQ IN I IC P CO L O ● RO BIA O ALL B S E AC IF T P GN ZZ I O N A U A ● N SI IA ER C G O F S O N LA ● RO NC IA DE ON SEV JA M I P T E M ● I P R A CH AN IA AP ● SE RS A A Z ● PO REN GR ● LO RIA A R R IN ● MA MA ● O FA V IA ● IN U ASS L AN V L Piazza I I ● N R O 1 N E IT L A Croce ● V- G 30 M . 19 1 I N E I● ● IR IR ST SP ● No . M A R NA IA Rossa RE TO IO RIZ S ● .B M ● L N G L K L A RI ● B LU LOÉ SA BI A MONTENAPOLEONE AK ● CH VI .● ● CO ● AX & S I O Y D’ TM IN R IM N L ● Ù L A TO OR A NP S E F A E ● P V E ● S AD SA V G IF E A A T ● A I L N L ’ 9 C ● PR V VI A GE I E ● P.3 ● IK R D M RU O I RS ER LLE AR O B L AN ● Y KO R U N U CH LD MI VI A L F A B M RI A 3 E I● BI GL CK HA ALE IN 88 ● IC I LL 0 L1 AN M SQU EY P IU P.4 PO FR DA R ● M A ● E P T AM I TA IU A ● M VI A ●● EU GCH E T T OL A P V N A SC PIG S ● ● RI OR RE S EL H LO M O ND ● Ò O L A EW RC T ● ’A GI NN VIN EL IS J BU AN NT A ● A D ● M ER S A IC Y NF A AS E ● ER SC VI S TOR R E VI R T O ● E ● BO TA S H N O I ● CL M R U L ● ON LO C A IGA VEL ERI I ● M CO I P N S CR O IAN G ● LC RC D & FA O

ANN

TTI

CHE

BOS

DEI

VIA

VIA SA

IAN

LI I

EN E

ZIA

TE ON E

Piazza Meda

CO R S O MAT TEO TTI

TT EO TT I CO RS O MA VIA SAN

SAN BABILA

P IE

SA AO

’OR ALL

TRO

VIA

Piazza San Carlo

Piazza San Babila

VI A B ORGO GN A

globalblue.com

74 | M I L A N G U I D E

MONCLER For high-performance outerwear and stylish clothing, shoes and accessories for all, be sure to visit Moncler. Set on famous Via Montenapolene, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s currently the largest monobrand Moncler store in the world. The flagship stocks pieces for men, women and children, including the new Moncler Genius concept â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a series of monthly drops that are set to replace the usual biannual collection format of spring/summer and autumn/winter, keeping the collections fresh and on trend. Moncler, Via Montenapoleone 1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7634 1316, moncler.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

In 2019, the Philipp Plein brand celebrates its 20th anniversary. To mark the occasion, it presents a dazzling spring/summer 2019 collection inspired by musician Michael Jackson. Details such as fringing, embellishments, studs and crystals run throughout the menswear and womenswear designs, which include leather jackets, skinny jeans and T-shirts. More formal pieces also feature in the form of shimmering shirts and jackets for men, and statement eveningwear for women. As a special nod to the first piece made under the Philipp Plein label 20 years ago, a handcustomised military parka, the spring/summer 2019 collection includes a series of hooded parkas and field jackets. Philipp Plein, Corso Venezia 7/1, 20121 Milan, +39 02 6666 9940, plein.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69 globalblue.com

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) ZACH HILTY

PHILIPP PLEIN

S H O P | 75

VI A D EI GI A R DINI

E L L’

NEF

ANN

R AT

UNC

ELLI

NIN MA LE N IE

DA VIA

S IM A M IC IS

NAB

AT E B E

DES ● V ISIG N G A L IO N N L E R Y A IR E ● OA K

IE ONI

ET C

VIA D

● ZA

VIA F

IATA

Piazza Cavour

● CA

● JA

VIA

NZE

RCH

F IR E

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MAR

ANN

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CO RS O DI V IA D

AT E B E

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VIA F

VI A FI LIP P

PO RTA NU

OVA

Via Manzoni & Via Fatebenefratelli

● FOTO OTTICA CAVOUR

IATA

LIT

UM ● ● CI SA OH AL B ● FO NZ L M EL HR R ● ● FA G L I A R A L I O A PR RS IE OC IN NK R A ● E A E T DI CA ● CA IN FA H T T TI TÉ I BO BR ET LLU NT D ● ON AR ● T TE I Z TA B L I O ● D I 1 TE ● E A 90 DE L C GA OT IO C R E N ● ● 2 A S TO OC T Z M ● E SH A CH ● M V EL D D ● E E TT M A R 'A IS I N E B ● E WA T Y I A RE YL ME ● AB SA R D ● IN ET VE ● M N N G ● SI A A S TA M ● AR ● M A M O N G A Z CO FR Y B MA EL RT E IN NI A A ● G NC NI E MI M G I T LA MA HI ● G a I S S A N N E L TA NO ● NZ lle GR SO LI P ON 18 r R A i I ● 72 N aM T I3 M M U 1 ● M ● S A an ON ● AN NI z L T P o ● A O A Piazza T ni TE ● T W TR NIO GR AR EN Croce ● PA I N I Z I A C A C OS A P Rossa ● P O U L SE T P E ROC E E ● OL PE E E ● G A LT S M ● ON ● 2 4 NT RON ITH O E M A ● PE MA IT PE AR F L M IR P N ● L R A AR LO N N I SP AU C A L Z INI ZO RI IN NI CM IS TO I N L N CK EL ● TA E R PE SA K EN A N I ● SA LA PE OW RE I LL A DE ● VI IC L E CR V N DR ZO ● LL EN CE RZ S AV I L O ● ● JO I S C C L C ● M A ● CO O AT A LA A SÙ OC A NI ● U D T E L L O PA I T E ● M GE CI LO A R N PT ● S NE NE VI B R IE P IER IB L S ●● OI ● W OA N D LL R US IE EM U ● ● S L R E DE ● G AT F O O A D R LO E S ● B AL EL RD SA EL T ● CO B O VI ● M AI M B L O L I T E W LI ● A N T BI AY W R A ON PO ● PA GL AN TI Y A NI IN RI I & N E NO LO ER T ● S M L ● NE M A ● GE S I FR ORO ● S DA ● MA SS ET N LI ● A J I BO TE I ● ● A LE E LA ● ● B RT SS FF ● M I I J O UE M I I● VE RC X IDE R O D DA ● P O C E VI ● M O N E AT PA Pa DE ● M U A N L D S I TA I R I S ni Z CE LA S O I P ni NC FE TO NI E Z I● VA D u LT C A O T Z LE rin RI L Z TI O L NE A CA I XT i M LL TU RA US I RE ● E OR

TO NA

DE LL

A SP IG A

E AT

T AN

’A

M A VI

ON TE PO

SA N

V IA

P IE

TRO

Place Of Interest

CO RS O MAT TEO TTI

’OR ALL

Non-Global Blue Retailer Metro

Piazza Meda

Global Blue Retailer

RO A

GALLERIE D’ARTE-PIAZZA SCALA

Restaurant

MO VI

Piazza della Scala

VIA

EL CAR EN A A CT M ER IR E O' ●

COR SO MAT TEO TTI

76 | M I L A N G U I D E

DANTE & MAGENTA AREA Corso Magenta

Via Dante

● PETALI CERATINA 1919 ●

ZANI VIAGGI, MILAN VISITOR CENTRE ●

CAIROLI

● ETHIMO ● HILDEGARD ● COLTELLERIA ● LORENZI MILANO ● ERBARIO ● CAMICISSIMA GIOIELLERIA

VIA

I CO

VIA TIVOLI ●

VI A NI RO

LENZUOLISSIMI ● OTTICA VIGEVANO ● GIOIELLI ● D’AUGUSTA TA NO MARCO ● NE G R NASHI ARGAN ● I LIMONI ●

VIA

● ELENA MIRÒ ● CANETTA ● GUESS ● KOCCA ● MUSTO ● WOMO ● FAST WEB ● CESAR IMPERIAL

● KIKO ● TRIUMPH ● CARPISA ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ VI A Piazza ● TIM PO

DANTE CORDUSIO ● WIND VI A SPAD

● L'ERBOLARIO

ES E

SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

DESIRÈE PROFUMERIA ●

CO R SO M AGE N TA

MAX MARA ● ZARA ●

VI A TO RI N

VI A OR EFICI

A RI

T 'A

DEL MARE 1911 ● PERLIER ●

MAGAZZINI FIRME OUTLET ●

Global Blue Retailer

V I A CO R DU SIO

● PAOLO TONALI

Metro

Cordusio

● EF ARTE ● L’ERBOLARIO ● FIGUS ● LOOX

Starbucks

A G EN TA

GIOIELLI ORO ARGENTO ● METROPOLITAN ● FINI ●

S OE SH OP H EN DR LIA S L I CH ME EPE ● A

● CURIOSITÀ ESOTERICHE ● EE ERCOLESSI ● BANG & OLUFSEN ● BUSCEMI ● CHICCHE DI CALZE ● L’ETICHETTA ● ALDO GUGLIELMINOTTI ● BOTTEGA ARTIGIANA TIFERNATE ● ABITINO EASY CHIC ● CINZIA SCARPE

CO R S O M

ASICS ●

VIA DA N T E

LOCHERBER ● DOTTI ● CALAMAI ●

ESTÉE LAUDER ● SILVIAN HEACH ●

I BER NAR DINO LUIN

●P

VIA

● CHICCO ● GEOX ● KIEHL'S

DESIGUAL ●

● RANCÉ ● GUANTI ● FRATELLI ROSSETTI

TEATRO LITTA

● MAC ● UNO DE 50 ● LACOSTE

ALDO ●

● GREAT MASTERS OF TIME ● PELLINI ● M. BARDELLI VIA

I U LINI

PIQUADRO ●

V I A B R I SA

CO RS O M AG EN

PERLITA ● CASA DEL BIANCO ● MARIONNAUD ● DE NIGRIS ● BOGGI ● RAW ● PINOTTI ● MATIAS OUTLET ● PERFUME BY CALÈ ● RUE DE CONCEPT ● WATCH HUNTERS ● M.C.M. SANTA MARIA NOVELLA ● ERA L'ORA ●

IA G

● JO MALONE

● BATA NI

ULTRA CHIC ● OTTICA MERAVIGLI ● AESOP ●

VIA

● CELIO ● SEPHORA ● BATA ● L’OCCITANE ● PETIT BATEAU ● GUTTERIDGE

● ALDO CITTERIO ● 3 STORE ● GIOIELLERIA FEDELI ● PELLETTERIA RICCARDI ● VODAFONE ● OROLOGERIA AL DUOMO ● SAVINELLI ● LE SCARPE DI PAOLO ● BLU SAND

OV AN

● YAMAMAY

PRIMADONNA ● SWAROVSKI ● NAU OTTICA ● Z Z MOLESKINE ● LE R O P LOCKER ● FOOT VI A LO BY LOVABLE ● LUSH ● SIGNORVINO ● OVS ● V

SOLARIS ● ● HILDEGARD ● ESIBIUSI ● EYETECH OTTICA ● CAMICERIA TIZIANO ● MELLUSO STORE ● WOOL CASHMERE

VI A DA NTE

IG LI

SHUFFLES ● CAPPELLERIA MELEGARI ● IL VECCHIO DRAPPIERE ● PIUMINI DANESI ●

P.39

● DU PAREIL...AU MÊME ● JACADI

GOLDEN POINT ●

V I A P O RLE ZZA

VI A M ER AV

MARIA GRAZIA MANESCALCHI ●

O DUOMO

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Place Of Interest

S H O P | 77

CORSO COMO, GAE AULENTI & BRERA AREA Piazza Gae Aulenti, Corso Como & Corso Garibaldi STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI GARIBALDI FS

LA FELTRINELLI SWATCH ● ● READ EAT DREAM ● AIRNESS

Piazza Gae Aulenti

RE PL BA AY LA MO N C N E W● L E● SE ESKI PH NE CO O R ● LM A ● A N I KR ● E● UN D E B E RM U J I R A GO ● RM MI OU ● R●

SELECTED STORES IN STAZIONE PORTA GARIBALDI: Accessorize Calzedonia Eurobijoux Foot Locker I ER SP La Feltrinelli TO TI Lama OpticalVIA Tally Weijl Tezenis

O CR

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QC TERMEMILANO Take a break from Milan’s bustling centre this summer and head to the Porta Romana neighbourhood. Located in a former tram depot, QC Termemilano is an unexpected oasis of calm. The holistic wellbeing centre is a great place to cool down, with an outside pool and whirlpools, a salt room, steam baths and olfactory rooms. Come for the day and spend time in the peaceful pools or book a spa treatment. QC Termemilano, Piazzale Medaglie d’Oro 2, 20135 Milan, +39 02 5519 9367, qcterme.com Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer Train Station

Shopping Centre/Mall

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● 120% LINO ● VINTAGE WATCHES MILANO ● ARTEST ● SPAZIO 23 BUTTERO ● ● ASAP ● WOMO ● BERGOMI ● NAU

MANILA GRACE ●

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MAISO N MARGI ELA ● GCDS ● CHIAR A FERRA GNI ● I L EL ● O CHRIS TIAN LOUBO UTIN ● R AP ● MOSCH INO ● V. C● ● T J U S O L O U T G A V I ● L E S M I C AV E R A D ID DS AL IA L HO AS ● Q LI UI P IN UA M M GI S A N D KO ● RE E VI VE RO ● D2 S AC RG A MAN A RL GANO O DE ● ● HSL C A RI M ID IN S H ● ● 10 S C T E O OF G -S H T T E ● ● B O RSO COMO O OCK RI S ● ● IX U L E D E N E ITA G IG E ANTE NAELE ● VIA OS FRE LE P R IM ● BO PA S ● A ROBE M UB R T O O M O N Ì ● ● M U L E D E N E IG IO TELE ● ASS E R IE ● ● AV E IM O R E B E CC H I R ● ER A Y L 55 LI ● I G A R T IO H AG C T IC A PO M ● O T● H IG H T E CAM V IA

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Via Solferino & Via Brera

Corso Garibaldi, Via Ponte Vetero & Via Madonnina I

ALD

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AMINA RUBINACCI ● LIBERO MILANO ● MES DEMOISELLES ●

COV A

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●M ONT EZE MOL BIC ICL ETT E ● O JA SM RO SS IGN OL I ● IN E M ● NO MO LES KIN E ● IL A N V I A R IE M ● O PA L SA L EWA ● F IG ERM O ● C L U S D E S IG NER ● M EP Y TE MPO RAR Y SH ● P IN OP O SU ED E ● ● LG T TI R ●M Y FR AG R ANC L'E CLA IR ES ● JO GI OI EL DE GE NIE ● LI

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● BARK THE MERCHANT ● OF VENICE ● PETTINAROLI

SEAL UP ● OTTO D'AME ●

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● CAMPOMARZIO70 ● KIEHL'S

VIA MONTE DI PIETÀ

Via Cusani & Via Dell’Orso

CR EE D ● TITÀ BIJ OU X ●

VIA CIOVAS

L'OLFATTOR IO ●

● PROFUMO

RA VIA BRE

US TI ● LU CA GI Y ● M C KE NZ UF SE N OL ● BA NG & CO RS O DI NO DE L ● IL GI AR A M M I GO ● M OR ON ● LI VE LY BY C IO N TA C KA RT EL L IA PO ● LA UF EN V

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Featured In This Issue

● LE S NE RE

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Non-Global Blue Retailer

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P SO E ● ● A E S O A D E L L'O R Y A R T S R ID G T IC MER THE B RENZI ● ● OT ERFU LO ● IN E P O N N 9 IA ● FA B R IN KO ● ANI P ● M IS T E R AL . ● ● W SI .E .T Y D .A L U ● ● AL FRÈ B F ORO ONI ● ● G IO T O IL E G R IF G M ● MUS GENT MS E ● ● S IM O O T C R -F O E ● ● E T R FO N GOOS V I A D E L L’ O R S O OLDE M I -G USA NI

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EL EO NO RA CI ● SC AR AM UC IO ● L'E RB OL AR

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CO SI MO GE NT ILE ● ERO NTE VET VIA PO MU ST O ● O N IA ● ANT OSE ● EN GO GOLD OP ● F IT F L E ● N GE N E R O O ● ● R IVA IN RTOF R Y P O O T T IC A ● EUR O● LENC

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AN GE LA CA PU TI ● ● MA NE E OF FIC INA PR OF UM O ● ● MA NE BI BA RB AR A DI DAVID E ● ● ME RO NI SÌ AL FO NS O GA ● AS H RL AN DO ● ● AC NE ST UD IO

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● PELLEGRINI

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S EAD OLLB E● ● TR NAMON D 'A M C IN OT TO ● IO N ● L IO FA S H ● F.C S S O 3 5 T IN A RY ● ● R O AT T R O MAR E LUXU 4U ● SEAS D IS O ● O P IÙ PA R A ● UN IR S OR L L O N U P S TA ● ZH A ● A IE LLI ● CL ARDE ● M .B ONE RO ● ET D E S IM ● IE D I L E G IO A R O L U IS AC C A R IA N ● FU ● BE A T T IN ● CA O % L IN ● 12 0

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● L'OCCITANE ● JE M'EN FOUS ● LA TENDA ● BAGATT ● ILIPRANDI ● DILMOS ● LE SOLFERINE ● GIADA PROFUMERIE ● FRAGONARD RICHARD VIA FATEBENEFRATELLI ● GINORI

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● THE SLOWE R STORE

VIA ANCONA

OTTICA AVANZI ● BLU DEEP ● GIOIELLI MERÙ ● PESERICO ● ST. BARTH ● LO SFIZIO ● MALI PARMI ● LE PANDORINE ● MANUEL RITZ ● SOLFERINO MARKET ●

CITTÀ DEL SOL E ● MY STY LE BAG S ●

LE CR EU SE T ●

● KRISTI NA TI

GLAMO UR VIA GOITO ● IN ROSE ● CITT ER IO GIOIEL LI

THE STORE ●

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LIPS TICK VINTAGE ●

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PELL ICCE RIA MO TOR IN ESE F UMA GAL DA ● O V S LI ● 3DIN O ● ● P IO G81 ● MB

BOFFI SOLFERINO ● FALIERO SARTI ●

VIA SOLFERINO

● NV I A D E IKE LLA M

S H O P | 79

ANGELA CAPUTI If you’re on the hunt for Italian jewellery, head to the workshop of Angela Caputi. Based in Florence, the designer creates pieces inspired by 1940s American film. Her designs have been showcased in Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, as well as the Museo degli Argenti and the Galleria del Costume in Florence.

Caputi does not shy away from making a statement; her creations incorporate bold colours, femininity and geometric shapes. Angela Caputi, Via Madonnina 11, 20121 Milan, +39 02 8646 1080, angelacaputi.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 78

BRIC’S

PHOTO: (TOP) ALESSANDRO BENCINI

Bric’s is a luxury Italian brand through and through: founded in 1952 near Lake Como, it has gained global recognition for its reliable travel products, which span suitcases, duffel bags, backpacks, briefcases and more. Craftmanship is a key value for the brand, resulting in exquisitely made luggage, exemplified by the pictured Bellagio collection. With shells made from the lightweight but durable trademarked Makrolon polycarbonate, ergonomic handles and a sleek look, the cases in this collection – available in a range of colours, including black, silver and navy – are the perfect choice for modern adventurers. Bric’s, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, 20121 Milan, +39 02 2219 8061, brics.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 66

globalblue.com

80 | M I L A N G U I D E

CORSO BUENOS AIRES AREA IA

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DOUGLAS ● PERSONA ● ALTIERI ● SALMOIRAGHI & VIGANÒ ●

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● FREDDY L'OCCITANE ● ● OLTRE ELENA MIRO ● ● MORELLATO STROILI ORO ● ● WAKE UP COSMETICS GEOX ● ● DANIEL & MAYER VI AG SWAROVSKI ● ● ANTONY MORATO IO YAMAMAY ● VA ● TWIN SET NN ● LEVI’S IO M ● HAVAIANAS FOOT LOCKER ● BO NI NARA CAMICIE ● ● AERONAUTICA MILITARE CALVIN KLEIN JEANS ● ● KIPLING O T S ● CARRERA JEANS AMO D A EC ● NIKE MILANO A LV IS

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D-MAIL ● ZAGO COSMETICS ● ● PIQUADRO GAMESTOP ● STRADIVARIUS ● ● GUESS KIDS ● GUESS MUTINELLI CAPPELLI ● FOSSIL ● BLUKIDS ● ● H&M SOLARIS ● ● SAN PIETRO MILANO KIKO ● PEPE JEANS ● ● DOCKSTEPS STEFANEL ● ● F.LLI SOLENNE GIOIELLI

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For drinks with a view, head to Terrazza 12. Located high in the Brian & Barry Building, this sophisticated lounge bar offers a cool outside terrace, and is an ideal spot to enjoy an aperitivo. The terrace overlooks spectacular views of Milan’s skyline and the vibrant interior is beautifully decorated with striking design features. The drinks menu offers 12 signature cocktails while the kitchen offers a superb pairing menu. Terrazza 12, Brian & Barry Building, Via Durini 28, 20122 Milan, +39 02 9285 3651, terrazza12.it FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 69 Non-Global Blue Retailer

Metro

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TERRAZZA 12

Global Blue Retailer

FRIS

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EPP

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PORTA VENEZIA

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Piazza Guglielmo Oberdan

IG LP

Restaurant

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OPENING TIMES MondaySunday: 10am-8pm

DAY TRIP

SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET The biggest designer outlet in Europe, Serravalle Designer Outlet boasts over 240 stores, 11 cafés and restaurants, and guest services including a tax refund and currency office, international payment facilities, and free Wi-Fi.

Serravale Designer Outlet, Via della Moda 1, 15069 Serravalle, +39 0143 609000, mcarthurglen.it/serravalle

MILAN

A50

E70 E70

E70

DESIGNER BRANDS FOR 30-70% LESS With over 300 brands to choose from, Serravalle Designer Outlet is the perfect place to indulge in designer fashion. Luxury brands including Gucci, Fendi and Versace Chic, trend-led womenswear from Sandro and Dondup, and men’s tailoring from Isaia and Canali Italian style with Furla, Giuseppe Zanotti and Ferragamo Sportswear from top labels Nike, Adidas and Salomon

• • • •

Outlet Village

Serravalle Designer Outlet

HOW TO GET THERE By car From Milan, take the A7 until you see the exit for Serravalle Scrivia. Take the exit and follow signs for Serravalle Designer Outlet. The journey takes around an hour.

By shuttle bus The popular shuttle bus service takes customers from Milan to Serravalle seven times a day.

OPENING TIMES

82 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP

FRANCIACORTA OUTLET VILLAGE

Come to Franciacorta Outlet Village and discover over 190 stores of top international brands and discounts up to 70% all year round. Franciacorta Outlet Village, Piazza Cascina Moie 1, 25050 Rodengo Saiano, +39 030 681 0364, franciacortaoutlet.it

HOW TO GET THERE By car From Milan, take the A4 Milan-Venice motorway (exit Ospitaletto) or take the A35 Bre-Be-Mi (take the final exit) then proceed to junction A4. Your journey will take less than an hour.

By shopping shuttle There is a daily shuttle service from Milan, for information and schedules go to franciacortaoutlet.it

THE WINE & SHOPPING TOUR The Wine & Shopping Tour lets you discover a land full of taste. You might enjoy a guided tour with tasting sessions at one of the Franciacorta wineries – the Village’s shuttle service will take you there. For booking and information, visit the Zani Viaggi office on Milan’s Largo Cairoli. globalblue.com

NEW OPENINGS … There is always something new to enjoy at Franciacorta Outlet Village. Fratelli Rossetti, North Sails, Under Armour, Rebel Queen by Liu Jo, Patrizia Pepe, Tru Trussardi, Loriblu, Martino Midali, Flavio Castellani, Caractère and Plein Sport are just a few of the stores which have opened at the village in recent months. Come and discover the new stores.

Beautifully situated between Lake Garda and Lake Iseo, and less than an hour from Milan, Franciacorta Outlet Village offers a unique and sparkling shopping experience imbued with the wine and food culture of this extraordinary region, which is the home of the famous Franciacorta DOCG wines.

Monday-Sunday: 10am-8pm June, July and August: Friday and Saturday 10am-9pm

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form.

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your Tax Free Forms stamped before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices. Spend a minimum of €154.95 and save up to 15.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Office Details Malpensa Airport: Terminal 1, Departures check-in, Area 12, second floor Terminal 1, Area A Schengen (after security control), first floor Terminal 2, International Departures, Forexchange Maccorp Linate Airport: Forexchange Maccorp, Departures Downtown Milan: Rinascente (sixth floor next to customer service desk), Piazza del Duomo, 20121 Milan

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 88

92 96

How To Get Your Tax Refund At The Store Request a Tax Free Form. Please note: when completing the Tax Free Form, retailers may ask you for the information below, due to the new Otello 2.0 legislation. • • • • • •

First name Surname Country of residence Date of birth Identity document Passport number*

•

Passport issuing country

*Swiss customers can present an identity card instead of a passport

If you do not provide the information above, you will not be able to obtain a Tax Free Form.

At The Point Of Departure Please follow the instructions at the airport. ITALY’S MAIN AIRPORTS (Rome Fiumicino T3, Milan Malpensa T1, Florence Peretola, Venice Marco Polo): Items in check-in luggage Go to a Global Blue Refund Office or kiosk for electronic validation and refund BEFORE check-in. Items in hand luggage Go to a Global Blue Refund Office or Customs AFTER security control for electronic validation and refund. You can go to a Global Blue Refund Office/Customs up to four hours before your departure time.

Kiosk

Follow the instructions on the screen and your refund will be paid to your credit card within five days.

Other Italian And EU Airports

Go to Customs and get your validation BEFORE check-in. Go to a Refund Office displaying the Global Blue logo, or mail your stamped and completed Tax Free Form(s) back to Global Blue in the envelope provided, and get your refund paid to your credit card within three weeks.

NO CUSTOMS VALIDATION = NO REFUND

中文翻译

44: CREAM OF THE CATWALKS 秀场精华在米兰时装周上，意大利设计师们以独树一帜而引人注目的方式，对本季的热门趋势做出了诠释。Virginie Morawski为您挑选2019年春夏季亮点

意大利设计师向来以超凡的想象力、优雅的气质与卓越的才华而著称。2019年春夏季，米兰时装周上的各家品牌纷纷用令人赞叹的方式展现了本季的主要趋势。裸色调的大量使用是本次米兰时装周上贯穿各大品牌的一条脉络。数十年来，Max Mara 一直极力推崇驼色；在该品牌的春夏季色调趋势中，驼色成为一大关键元素自然也就不足为奇了：从头到脚，Max Mara作品的配色从米黄色和驼色逐渐变化至较深的褐色。Fendi将裸色调运用到了旅行长裤、秀美连衣裙和短裙上。Salvatore Ferragamo则将裸色用于背带裤和披风等实用性单品，以及正装西服上。虽说中性的裸色在秀场上并不鲜见，但这并不意味着各大品牌对色彩的使用趋于保守。一些品牌 — — 包括Versace— — 选择了色彩缤纷的效果，同时在单品上大量使用反差鲜明的印花与图案。另一些品牌则选择了略偏前卫的扎染，例如No21的一款 T恤衫、Prada本季最引人注目的手袋之一以及MSGM的丹宁作品。但是，如果今年春夏季您只想入手一种颜色的衣物，那就非黄色莫属。黄色是最适合夏天的色彩。Versace充满活力的黄绿色、Max Mara的大黄蜂色、Agnona更柔和的赭色与芥末色、Alberta Ferretti最淡雅的各色雪纺……各大上图: Max Mara 2019春夏

品牌都对黄色做出了精彩演绎。几个季度以来，健身风潮一直是秀场上的一个重要主题，各大品牌也不断在高级时尚系列中融入运动服。泳装领域的竞争就很强烈：Etro 受到太平洋海岸的启发，将职业冲浪运动员送上了T台；Sportmax同样以冲浪为切入点，推出了饰有亮片的防晒衣，以及和剪裁单品搭配穿着的钩针比基尼；Moschino的泳装则淋漓尽致地体现了该品牌天马行空的标志性风格。对沙滩和泳池装扮无感的人或许可以选择自行车短裤。Jil Sander的短裤体现了该品牌的一次探索，挖掘了制服的概念及其与运动和性能的紧密联系。Roberto Cavalli的系列作品中同样有自行车短裤，该品牌创意总监Paul Surridge 在其中展现了他对人体能量这一概念的独到见解。总体而言，各大设计师以成熟风范演绎运动服，令人感受到一曲对人体的赞歌。众品牌抛弃了此前无处不在的街头风潮，精心策划了一场秀美裙服的盛大回归。修长连衣裙、优雅的廓形、精美的细节……这些只是各大品牌在 2019年春夏季采用的一部分设计元素而已。从希腊风格的单品到受50年代影响的造型，各种连衣裙撑起了整个Marni系列。Moschino的连衣裙凸显了鲜明而大胆的 80 年代审美风格。Gucci连衣裙以各种各样的细节来装饰，从植物印花到金属线织物再到流苏，款式丰富至极。整个Max Mara系列都优雅无比，柔和的色调将别致的廓形衬托得恰到好处。MSGM和Prada则推出了饰有蝴蝶结的单品和用硕大亮片或羽毛打造的连衣裙，带来了许多别具趣味的选择。在过去的几个季度中，袖子一直是人们关注的一大重点，这在 2019年春夏季的优美裙装上也得到了充分体现。袖子的设计以不对称结构为基础，也就是单袖或单肩带款式。Max Mara、Versace和 MSGM等许多品牌均推出了款式丰富的单袖设计。巴黎时装周上，Celine因为后Phoebe Philo时

PHOTO: ALESSANDRO GAROFALO

TRANSLATIONS

代的不同面貌登上了新闻头条；而在这之前的一个星期左右，米兰时装周众多品牌就已经为简约风潮卷土重来铺垫了基础。Jil Sander品牌的创意双人组Luke Meier和 Lucie Meier选择了做减法的审美哲学，专注于结构鲜明、造型方正的制服概念。Agnona品牌的Simon Holloway 从艺术家 Joan Jonas的衣橱中获得启发，以简约而细长的廓形玩转体量概念：在这个貌似漫不经心的系列中，风衣、宽松罩衫、连衣裙和披风叠穿在一起，有时搭配一根腰带，有时则自然松开。Salvatore Ferragamo同样趋于极简主义时尚，同时格外注重剪裁：简约的西装廓形、时髦的皮革两件套和连衣裙共同组成了一个既成熟又高雅的系列。用 Fendi的腰包、Prada的扎染手袋或 Sportmax的渔夫帽等米兰时装周主打配饰来完成您的2019年春夏季造型吧。除此之外，也可以选择本季度的另一重要趋势 — — 编织手袋或鞋款：Alberta Ferretti的藤篮袋和 Salvatore Ferragamo受品牌经典旧作启发的编织鞋款都是本季亮点。正如米兰时装周一遍又一遍地证明过的，意式风格融合了成熟气质、卓绝魅力以及一抹不加掩饰的潇洒，也将因此而继续赢得我们的喜爱。

52: THE CUTTING EDGE 尖端风潮意大利的顶级裁缝正在努力突破时尚风格与技术创新的界限— — 甚至还开始涉足社会与伦理议题。Ginger Rose Clark 报道随着各大品牌的 2019年春夏季系列纷纷玩起创意面料与裁剪，独树一帜的西装成为了绅士们最新的衣橱必备品。“ 西装仍然是一个男人最卓越的 ‘制服’，但新的优雅规则允许人们进行新的演绎。”Corneliani的时尚总监 Stefano Gaudioso Tramonte先生说道；本季度，他用各种各样的方式玩转丝绸。各大品牌纷纷针对面料和面料处理展开实验，以成衣染色夹克而著称的Boglioli也不例外。“ 我们研发了一种特殊的成衣染色方法，从而改良了 Boglioli赖以成名的这道工序。”助理买手 Camille Hopp解释道，“这道工序能创造出索拉罗（solaro）的效果。”（索拉罗面料可呈现出微妙的荧光虹彩。）

优雅是意大利式西装剪裁的核心，而在此基础上，仍然有充分的实验空间。Isaia公司首席执行官Gianluca Isaia如此解释其理念：“ 我们从世界各地汲取灵感，融入可以反映摩登绅士着装的特定裁剪与廓形，同时决不抛弃我们的特色。” 这场面料与裁剪的游戏之所以行得通，要归功于许多规模更大的意大利时装品牌的商业模式，这其中就包括Brunello Cucinelli和 Loro Piana。这些品牌是垂直一体化的：换句话说，从原材料的生产到成衣最后的细节，他们把控着制造流程的每一个阶段。举个例子，Ermenegildo Zegna创立之初名为Lanificio Zegna，只是位于意大利比耶拉（Biella）附近的一间羊毛作坊；多年过去，该品牌逐渐扩展经营范围，如今已涵盖从原材料到成衣和定制单品等各种类别。该公司集所有业务于一体，因此得以轻松获取最优质的材料以及充足的研发空间。需求是引导改变的关键因素一。Tramonte 先生着重讲述了典型的西装顾客多年来的变化历程：“ 在过去的 20年里，男士服装领域的许多东西都改变了。今天，你已经无法再以年龄段作为参考标准；男士时尚关乎社会环境，也关乎文化。此外，男人们的习惯也改变了，每个人都想在大部分场合里穿得休闲些。” 相比前几代人，当今男士和衣橱的关系大不一样，各家品牌都不得不对这一事实做出妥协；于是乎，旅行、科技和现代生活方式如今都成为了给男士设计服装时必须考虑的因素。作为回应，Isaia的春夏季系列就主打无需熨烫的泡泡纱夹克。这一设计是在Gianluca Isaia本人的工作日程中孕育的，它也反映了许多同行的情况。“ 我基本上是住在飞机上的，所以我旅行时带的和穿的一定要符合我的 ‘空中飞人’生活方式。”他解释道，“基于这层考虑，泡泡纱是一种很棒的面料。2019年春夏季，我们推出了一款泡泡纱无尾礼服，有时候我也会用它搭配一件 T恤，穿出更加休闲的感觉。” Aquaspider是该品牌另一种备受青睐的旅行面料。“这些面料不仅非常适合出行，而且防水性极佳，所以如果有人不小心把饮料泼到了你身上，液体会滚动滑走，不会打湿衣物。”Gianluca Isaia解释道。设计师需要考虑到现代日常生活的方方面面，Canali就成功将这诸多需求纳入了该品牌的Impeccabile 2. 0系列服装中。这个系列包括西装、大衣和衬衫，均选用天然富有弹性的透气面料打造，可防皱、防水、防污渍。随着生活方式日益与各种数码产品联系在

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一起，各大品牌也纷纷开始投资开发新思路。今年春夏季，Corneliani发布了一个由两款外套和两款手袋组成的Connected Style胶囊系列。这些新品的内置口袋都配备了特殊内嵌技术，将手机放入其中即可进行无线充电。Tramonte 先生解释称，面对一位见闻广博、家财万贯的环球旅行者，像Connected Style这样的设计才足以吸引这位世俗绅士。“ 我们的使命就是尝试用正确的语言与他交谈，让他看到我们的产品不断与时俱进的实证。卓越品质和优雅风格是必不可少的。”他说道，“ 我们必须向他讲述一个真实的故事，要能说服他选择我们。今天，我们的要求就是提供顾客自己的衣橱里并没有的东西— —风格是一方面，但主要得考虑到功能。” 说起革新和改变，可持续性同样为设计师们提供了一个创意的框架。举例而言，Etro的 2019春夏季男士系列就格外注重可持续面料，选用荨麻和黄麻等产自当地的天然纤维打造，以植物染料染色。不过，但行好事的心愿并不止于此，许多服装公司都在寻求更大规模的变革。 Zegna基金会秉承着四个使命：保护环境和文化资源、促进当地社区的可持续发展、支持科学研究、为年轻人提供教育机会。不仅如此，Zegna的作坊至今仍然留在比耶拉，该公司还在当地的阿尔卑斯山区启动了一个环保项目，建设了一座占地100平方公里的Oasi Zegna 公园。Canali Onlus基金会也参与了各种项目， globalblue.cn

涵盖医疗研究、健康、社会救助、就业和教育等多个领域。虽然伦理在最近几年才成为时尚行业的一个重要维度，但许多时装品牌很早就意识到了解决社会与环境问题的重要性：Ermenegildo Zegna和 Brunello Cucinelli等品牌多年来都在坚持打造符合伦理的、可持续发展的产业结构，也因而成为了理性时尚的真正先锋。虽然西装扎根于传统，但通过科学研究和突破界限的新技术，西装已经成为了新思想的一块画布。这样的创新是全方位思考的一部分：各大品牌积极投资有关面料和剪裁的前沿概念，同时也斥资研发商业模式，参与大规模的社会、伦理或可持续发展项目。意大利的时装公司心系全局，热切地做着正确的事情，坚定地将目光投向未来。

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 44: CREAM OF THE CATWALKS ГЛАВНОЕ НА ПОДИУМАХ

На Неделе моды в Милане итальянские дизайнеры показали собственное прочтение ключевых трендов сезона. Вирджини Моравски выбрала самое интересное из коллекций весна-лето 2019 Итальянские дизайнеры славятся врожденным чувством вкуса, фантазией и элегантностью. В коллекциях весна-лето 2019, представленных на Миланской неделе моды, они отразили основные тренды сезона, но реализовали их по-своему. Многие бренды отдали предпочтение нейтральным оттенкам. Max Mara уже не одно десятилетие работает с верблюжьим цветом, поэтому неудивительно, что он стал основным акцентом коллекции. Только в этот раз бренд предложил использовать его для всего комплекта одежды: палитра этого сезона охватывала спектр от бежевого и верблюжьего до глубокого коричневого. Fendi представил в нейтральных оттенках брюки сафари и нежные платья и юбки. А в коллекции Salvatore Ferragamo в нюд окрашены костюмы и практичные вещи, такие как комбинезоны и пончо. Обилие нейтральных оттенков вовсе не означает, что бренды постеснялись использовать цвет. На подиуме можно было наблюдать и эффект калейдоскопа: например, Versace столкнул самые разные принты и узоры. Другие бренды предпочли еще более яркий эффект тай-дай, или «вываренного» окрашивания: такими стали платья-футболки от No21, самая заметная сумка этого сезона от Prada и деним от MSGM. Но если нужно выбрать один цвет и посвятить ему весь сезон, то это должен быть желтый. Он не только идеально подходит для лета, но и представлен во всех мыслимых вариантах: необычный оттенок шартрез у Versace, насыщенный ярко-желтый у globalblue.ru

Max Mara, более приглушенные охра и горчица у Agnona и нежнейшие шифоновые ноты у Alberta Ferretti. Фитнес остается важной темой уже несколько сезонов, и бренды продолжают включать спортивную одежду в коллекции высокой моды. В этот раз новый акцент задала одежда для плавания. Etro вдохновился тихоокеанским побережьем до такой степени, что выпустил на подиум профессиональных серферов. Sportmax также работал с темой серфинга и представил рашгарды с блестками, а заодно и вязаные купальникибикини в сочетании с пиджаками. Летние комплекты Moschino, как и всегда, отличаются свойственной этому бренду иронией, выраженной в забавном принте. Если пляжи и бассейны вас интересуют меньше, то можно обратить внимание на шорты. В коллекции бренда Jil Sander они помогают изучить возможности униформы, особенно в связи со спортом и профессиональной экипировкой. Креативный директор Roberto Cavalli Пол Сарридж обратился к силе и энергии тела, и в его коллекции также появились велосипедные шорты. Практически все дизайнеры сошлись в рафинированном подходе к одежде для активного отдыха, и это воспринимается как прославление тела и его возможностей. Похоже, бренды теряют интерес к уличному стилю, который раньше был едва ли не в каждой коллекции. Теперь особое внимание уделяется подчеркнутой женственности: длинные платья, элегантные силуэты и красивая отделка – это только некоторые приемы, к которым прибегают дизайнеры в этом сезоне. Основой коллекции Marni стали самые разные платья, от моделей в греческом стиле до силуэтов из 1950х. Платья Moschino напоминают о дерзком стиле 1980-х. А Gucci предложил покупательницам соблазнительное разнообразие декора: от цветочных принтов до металлизированных тканей и бахромы. Вся коллекция Max Mara отличалась элегантностью высшей пробы:

Итальянские бренды умеют сочетать изысканность и шарм с непередаваемым жизнелюбием

цветовая палитра, построенная вокруг отдельных оттенков, усилила изысканность силуэтов. MSGM и Prada предложили обыграть женственность с помощью бантов, крупных блесток и перьев. В последние несколько сезонов дизайнеры уделяют много внимания рукавам, и в полную силу это проявилось в коллекциях весналето 2019. Max Mara, Versace, MSGM и многие другие – практически каждый бренд показал асимметричные конструкции, где у платья только один рукав или лямка. Целую неделю перед Парижской неделей моды все обсуждали окончание эпохи Фиби Фило в Celine. Но Миланская неделя моды оказалась богата на роскошный минимализм и предложила новые альтернативы. Люк и Люси Мейер, дуэт креативных директоров Jil Sander, продолжают развивать лаконичную эстетику и фокусируются на поиске идеальной деловой одежды со структурными и угловатыми формами. Саймон Холлоуэй, креативный директор бренда Agnona, пристально изучил манеру одеваться американской художницы Джоан Джонас. В новой коллекции он решил поиграть с объемами простых по структуре и вытянутых моделей: его тренчи, туники, платья, пончо можно носить в несколько слоев, можно подпоясывать или надевать свободно. В итоге преобладающей эмоцией коллекции оказалась уравновешенная невозмутимость. Salvatore Ferragamo также склоняется к минимализму, поэтому в коллекции весна-лето 2019 работал с кроем. В итоге в ней соседствуют простые костюмы, изысканные кожаные комплекты и платья, создающие эффект зрелости и элегантности. Осталось завершить образ главными аксессуарами Миланской недели моды: например, поясной сумкой Fendi, сумкой Prada с эффектом тай-дай и панамой Sportmax. Важный тренд этого сезона – плетеные сумки и туфли: особого внимания достойны сумки-корзины Alberta Ferretti и плетеная обувь Salvatore Ferragamo, вдохновленная историческим наследием бренда. Миланская Неделя моды вновь подтвердила: итальянские бренды умеют сочетать изысканность и шарм с непередаваемым жизнелюбием. И устоять globalblue.ru

перед этим просто невозможно.

54: THE CUTTING EDGE НА ПИКЕ ФОРМЫ Джинджер Роуз Кларк рассказывает об итальянских брендах, которые расширяют границы стиля и технических возможностей, а также берутся за решение социальных и этических вопросов Костюмы с изюминкой уверенно вошли в гардеробы джентльменов, поскольку в коллекциях весна-лето 2019 преобладают неожиданные ткани и необычный крой. «Костюм остается «униформой» современного мужчины. Однако новые правила элегантности диктуют новые подходы к нему», – утверждает директор по стилю марки Corneliani Стефано Гаудиосо Трамонте, который в этом сезоне много работает с шелком. Интерес к экспериментам с тканями проявляет бренд Boglioli: его излюбленный прием – окрашивание пиджаков после пошива. Камилль Хопп, ассистирующий мерчендайзер, раскрывает секрет переливающегося эффекта: «Boglioli давно разрабатывает это направление. Окрашивание придает ткани градиентный оттенок и легкое сияние». Итальянский костюм от любого другого отличает неизменная элегантность. Но даже такие строгие рамки все равно оставляют немало места для экспериментов. В этом уверен Джанлука Исайя, исполнительный директор Isaia: «Мы находим вдохновение в самых разных частях света. Из всего многообразия мы отбираем те формы и силуэты, которые отражают предпочтения современного джентльмена в одежде. И, конечно, не забываем о собственной идентичности». Для многих крупных брендов, таких как Brunello Cucinelli и Loro Piana, постоянный поиск новых тканей и идей подкрепляется бизнес-моделью. А именно – вертикальной интеграцией: эти компании контролируют все стадии производства: от исходных материалов до фурнитуры и отделки. Бренд Ermenegildo Zegna,

например, начинал как ткацкая фабрика Lanificio Zegna рядом с итальянским городом Биелла. За прошедшие годы компания постепенно расширялась и, наконец, вобрала в себя все – от тканей до готовых коллекций и пошива на заказ. Таким образом, у Ermenegildo Zegna всегда под рукой лучшие материалы и производственные мощности, а значит, и бесконечные возможности для дальнейших экспериментов и развития. Запрос на перемены во многом исходит от покупателей. По словам Трамонте, сформировался новый образ заказчика костюма: «В последние 20 лет мужская мода очень изменилась. Сегодня значение имеет не возраст, а социальная среда и культура. Более того, изменились и привычки мужчин. В большинстве случаев они предпочитают более расслабленный и повседневный вариант». Брендам пришлось принять, что теперь мужчины относятся к своему гардеробу не так, как предыдущие поколения. Современный костюм должен учитывать постоянные разъезды, новые технологии и активный образ жизни. Чтобы ответить на этот запрос, бренд Isaia включил в коллекцию весна-лето пиджаки из летней ткани сирсакер, которую не нужно гладить. Джанлука Исайя ориентировался на собственный график, который схож с ритмом жизни его клиентов: «Я практически живу в самолете. Все, с чем я путешествую и что я ношу, должно вписываться в этот распорядок. Сирсакер отлично подходит для этих целей. В коллекции весна-лето 2019 у нас есть смокинг из сирсакера, я иногда ношу его с футболкой, чтобы получился менее официальный образ». На частые поездки ориентирована и ткань Aquaspider: «Она не только не мнется, но и устойчива к жидкостям. Если на вас что-нибудь прольют, то жидкость просто стекает, а сам пиджак остается сухим», – уточняет Джанлука Исайя. Костюм должен учитывать особенности повседневной жизни современного мужчины. И бренд Canali блестяще справляется с этим: в частности, костюмы, пальто и рубашки из линии Impeccabile 2.0 сделаны из дышащей ткани с естественным стретчем, устойчивой к складкам, промоканию и пятнам. Мы все крепче привязываемся к нашим цифровым устройствам, а бренды

обнаруживают в этом новые возможности. К сезону весна-лето Corneliani представил капсульную коллекцию Connected Style, в которую вошли два предмета верхней одежды и две сумки. Внутренние карманы этих вещей оснащены встроенным устройством, которое заряжает мобильный телефон обладателя беспроводным способом. Трамонте считает, что такие проекты, как Connected Style, – это лучший способ привлечь внимание современных и много путешествующих джентльменов: «Наша задача – обратиться к ним на понятном языке и делом доказать, что наш продукт развивается. Качество и элегантность сохраняются априори. Мы должны рассказать им нашу настоящую историю, которая поможет сделать правильный выбор. От нас требуется предложить чтото такое, чего нет в шкафу потенциального покупателя – в плане стиля и, что еще важнее, в плане функциональности». Экологическая ответственность также задает рамки для инновационного подхода. Например, Etro в коллекции весна-лето 2019 уделяет много внимания экологичности тканей: они производятся локально с использованием натуральных волокон крапивы и джута, а также красителей растительного происхождения. Но хорошие дела этим не ограничиваются: многие бренды меняют мир к лучшему в большем масштабе. Фонд Fondazione Zegna работает в четырех направлениях: сохранение природных и культурных ресурсов, поддержка экологичного развития в местных сообществах, поддержка научных исследований и образования для молодых людей. Еще один проект этого бренда – общественный парк Oasi Zegna площадью 100 км2 у подножия Альп в Биелле, где расположены фабрики Zegna. Фонд Fondazione Canali Onlus участвует в проектах, посвященных медицинским исследованиям, здравоохранению, социальной помощи, трудовой занятости и образованию. Модная индустрия в целом заинтересовалась этическими проблемами сравнительно недавно, и пионерами осознанной моды стали именно эксклюзивные бренды. Например, Ermenegildo Zegna и Brunello Cucinelli уже много лет реализуют проекты, нацеленные на решение социальных и экологических вопросов.

Несмотря на склонность к классике и традициям, мужской костюм стал проводником новых идей. Бренды в равной мере вкладываются в современные ткани и крой, в развитие бизнес-модели и крупные социальные и экологические проекты. Итальянские модные дома стремятся сеять добро во всем, что делают, и уверенно прокладывают себе путь в светлое будущее.

84: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С TAX FREE

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить Tax Free формы для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €154.95 и сэкономьте до 15.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. globalblue.ru | globalblue.com

日本語

44: CREAM OF THE CATWALK

キャットウォークに光る注目のブランドミラノ・ファッションウィークでは、今シーズンのトレンドをイタリアのデザイナー独特の解釈で表現した素晴らしい作品が披露された。ヴァージーニー・モラウスキーが2019年春夏コレクションのハイライトをお届けする。イタリアのデザイナーは豊かな想像力と華麗さ、粋なスタイルで有名だ。2019年春夏も、ミラノ・ファッションウィークに出展したレーベルが今シーズンのキートレンドを取り入れた魅力満載の作品を披露した。ミラノ・ファッションウィークでは、ヌードトーンをふんだんに使った装いが出展ブランドに共通する特徴だった。マックスマーラは数十年前からキャメルカラーを好んで使っており、この春夏のトーントレンドもキャメル中心だったのは何の不思議もない。頭から爪先まで、ベージュからキャメル、そして深みのある茶へと拡がりのあるカラーパレットを用いていた。フェンディでは、フェミニンなドレスやスカートはもちろん、サファリパンツにもヌードトーンを使っていた。サルヴァトーレ・フェラガモは、テーラリングだけでなくダンガリーやポンチョといった実用的なアイテムにもヌードを使用している。このように、キャットウォークで繰り返し見られたカラースキームはニュートラルなヌードだったが、各ブランドが控えめな色使いに終始していたわけではない。ヴェルサーチなど一部のブランドは、一つの作品内に様々なプリントやパターンを使い、互いに主張しあうような万華鏡効果を狙った。ややエッジーな絞り染めを使ったブランドもある。No21（ヌメロヴェントゥーノ）ではTシャツドレス、プラダでは今シーズンの代表作といえるバッグ、MSGMではデニムに使っている。ただ、今年の春夏は一色しか新調できないという向きには、黄色がお薦めだ。夏にピッタリの黄色は、様々な色調が出ていた。ヴェルサーチでは鮮やかなシャルトリューズ、マックスマーラはバンブルビー、アニオナではおとなしめのオーカーやマ

スタード、アルベルタ・フェレッティは淡いシフォンといった具合だ。一方、フィットネスはここ数シーズンの中心テーマだったが、各ブランドは今シーズンのハイファッションコレクションにアクティブウェアを組み入れていた。中でもスイムウェアは出色だった。エトロは太平洋岸からインスピレーションを得て、プロサーファーをモデルに起用するこだわりよう。スポーツマックスも波をイメージし、シークインを施したラッシュガードやクロシェ編みのビキニの上にテーラードジャケットを合わせた装いを登場させた。モスキーノのスイムスーツは、いかにも同ブランドらしい遊び心あふれるデザインが特徴的だった。上：モスキーノ2019年春夏コレクション

ビーチやプールはどうも苦手という人には、サイクリングパンツがいいかもしれない。ジル・サンダーのパンツは、ユニフォームのコンセプトとスポーツやパフォーマンスとの関係を追求した作品群の一環として披露された。ロベルト・カヴァリではクリエイティブディレクターのポール・サリッジが、同じくサイクリングパンツを目玉とするコレクションで肉体のパワーとエネルギーという概念に触れた。デザイナーは全般に、肉体賛美と思われる言及をするなど洗練されたアクティブウェアを追求していた。前回はあちこちで見られたストリートウェアから離れて、各ブランドがフェミニンな装いに一斉に回帰しているのも今シーズンの特徴だ。ロングドレスやエレガントなシルエット、美しいディテールなどは、2019年春夏コレクションで各ブランドが採用したデザイン要素のほんの一部だ。マルニのコレクションでは、ギリシャ風から1950年代風までドレスが中心を成していたし、モスキーノのドレスは大胆な80年代の美学がテーマ。グッチは、花柄プリントからメタリックな生地、裾飾りと幅広い仕上げを施したドレスを繰り出し、目移りしてしまうほどだった。マックスマーラではコレクション全体が素晴らしくエレガントで、同系色のカラースキームがシックなシルエットを際立たせていた。MSGMとプラダでは、リボン付きのデザインや特大シークインや羽根でできたドレスなど遊び心のある作品がいくつか披露されている。ここ2シーズンほど、袖に焦点を当てたデザインが多く見られたが、2019年春夏の美しいドレスの数々でその傾向が本格化した。袖はアシメトリーの形、つまり片袖や片ストラップが中心だ。マックスマーラ、ヴェルサーチ、MSGMをはじめ、片袖デザインのバリエーションを披露したブランドは多い。一週間ほど後に開催されるパリ・ファッションウィークを最後にフィービー・ファイロがセリーヌを去ることがニュースになったが、ミラノ・ファッションウィークは、シックでミニマリスト的な装いを追求する他の多くのデザイナーが基盤を築く場となった。ジル・サンダーでクリエイティブディレクターを務めるルーク・メイヤーとルーシー・メイヤーが選んだのは、構造的な四角い形のユニフォームというアイデアを中心とした無駄を削ぎ落とした美学だ。アニオナのサイモン・ホロウェイは芸術家ジョーン・ジョナスのワードローブにヒントを得て、シンプルで長いシルエットを作りつつボリュームで遊んで見せた。トレンチコートやチュニック、ドレス、ポンチョを重ね、ベルトで締めたりベルト無しでルースに着たりと、落ち着

PHOTO: GORUNWAY.COM

きの中にも自由さが漂うコレクションだった。サルヴァトーレ・フェラガモも、カット重視のミニマリストシックに近いラインを打ち出し、シンプルなテーラリングアイテム、滑らかなレザーのツーピース、ドレスを大人っぽくエレガントなコレクションにまとめた。 2019年春夏の装いは、ミラノ・ファッションウィークの主だったアクセサリーで仕上げよう。例えば、フェンディのベルトバッグ、プラダの絞り染めバッグ、スポーツマックスのバケットハットなど。あるいは、編み込みのバッグや靴も今シーズンの重要なトレンドだ。アルベルタ・フェレッティのバスケットバッグや、ブランドの記録資料にあったデザインをヒントにしたサルヴァトーレ・フェラガモの編み込みフットウェアも、今シーズンのハイライトだ。洗練された魅力を湛えつつ活力を堂々と見せつけるイタリアンスタイルが人を魅了し続けることは、ミラノ・ファッションウィークで繰り返し証明されている。

50: THE CUTTING EDGE

最先端をいくイタリアンテーラリングイタリアのトップテイラーがスタイルはもちろん技術革新でも限界を押し広げ、さらに社会問題や倫理的問題にも取り組んでいる。ジンジャー・ローズ・クラークがレポートする。ひねりの効いたテーラリング、それこそが紳士のワードローブに欠かせない新しい要素であることを、革新的な生地やカットが満載の2019年春夏コレクションが魅力いっぱいに見せてくれている。「スーツはいつの時代もできる男のユニフォーム。ただ、エレガンスの尺度が新たになり、スーツも新しい解釈が可能になっています」と、今シーズンのコレクションでシルクを様々に駆使したステファノ・ガウディオーソ・トラモンテのスタイルディレクター、コルネリアーニはいう。生地や生地加工で冒険したブランドの一つが、製品染めのジャケットで知られるボリオリだ。「ボリオリお馴染みの加工過程をさらに進化させた特別な製品染めプロセスを開発しました」というのは、アシスタントマーチャンダイザーのカミール・ホップ。「このプロセスによって玉虫色の光沢 globalblue.com

（ソラーロ）が生まれます。」（ソラーロ生地はうっすらと玉虫色に光る仕上げになっている。）イタリアンテーラリングを象徴するエレガンスを保ちながらでも、実験の余地は大いにある。イザイアのCEOジャンルカ・イザイアが、自社のアプローチを説明してくれた。「ブランドアイデンティティはしっかり守りつつ、世界中からインスピレーションを集め、現代男性の着方を反映した特定のカットやシルエットを取り入れています。」こうして生地やカットで冒険できるのは、ブルネロ・クチネリやロロ・ピアーナといったイタリアのテーラリングブランド大手の多くが用いているビジネスモデルのおかげだ。それは垂直統合。素材の生産から完成品の仕上げのディテールまで、プロセスの全段階をコントロールする形だ。例えば、エルメネジルド・ゼニアはイタリアのビエラ近郊にあるウール工場ラニフィーチョ・ゼニアが出発点だが、何年もかけて徐々に拡大し、その事業は今や素材から既製服、誂え服まであらゆる分野にわたっている。全てが傘下にあることで最高級素材の入手がたやすいだけでなく、研究開発も広範囲で行える。変革を推し進める背景にあるのが需要だ。テーラリングの典型的な客層が時を経てどう変わってきたかをトラモンテは力説する。「ここ20年でメンズファッションは大きく変わりました。今はこれといった年代別特徴がなくなり、むしろ社会的な環境や文化が参照点になっています。さらに男性の装い傾向も変わり、たいていの場面で比較的カジュアルなものが好まれています。」各ブランドは現代男性のワードローブとの付き合い方が先世代と違うことに対応せざるをえなくなり、紳士用スーツのデザインにおいても、旅行やテクノロジー、現代的ライフスタイルが考慮すべき要素になっているという。そうした背景の下、イザイアは春夏コレクションの目玉にアイロンがけ不要のシアサッカーをもってきた。これはジャンルカ・イザイア自身の多忙な生活から生まれたスタイルだ。同年代の多くの人と同様に、彼は「飛行機が我が家のようなもの。だから、旅行鞄に詰めるものも着るものも、ジェットセッターのライフスタイルにふさわしいものでなければならない」のだという。「シアサッカーはこの点とても優れた生地なんです。2019年春夏向けにシアサッカーのタキシードを作りました。僕は、さらにリラックスした雰囲気を出すためにTシャツを中に着る時もあるんですよ。」もう一つ旅行着として人気のある同ブランドの生地がアクアスパイダー。「この生地は旅行着に適するだけでなく、撥水性があるのが特徴です。

誰かに飲み物をこぼされても液体が球状になって落ちるので、服が濡れることはありません」とジャンルカ・イザイア。現代日常生活のあらゆる面を考慮する必要がある今、カナーリは「インペカブル2.0」シリーズで多くの必須要件を盛り込むのに成功している。このシリーズにはスーツ、コート、シャツがあるが、どれも通気性が高く自然な伸縮性を持ち、シワにならず水や汚れに強い生地でできている。一方、デジタル製品なしにライフスタイルを語れなくなっている現代、各ブランドも新たな可能性を模索している。コルネリアーニは春夏向けに「コネクテッド・スタイル」カプセルコレクションを発表した。アウターウェア2種とバッグ2種のコレクションで、特殊技術を内蔵した内ポケットで携帯電話のワイアレス充電が可能というものだ。情報通で裕福で世界中を飛び回っている人を想定した「コネクテッド・スタイル」のようなデザインこそが世知にたけた紳士の注意を引くのだと、トラモンテはいう。「当社の使命は、そうした紳士にふさわしい言葉で当社商品の進化の証を示すこと。高品質とエレガンスは言うまでもありません。当社の商品を納得して選んでいただくには、真実のストーリーを語る必要があります。今必要なのは、スタイルはもちろん主に機能面でまだ持っていらっしゃらないものを提供することです。」革新や変革では、サステナビリティも枠組みとなる。例えば、エトロの2019年春夏メンズコレクションは、ネトル（西洋イラクサ）やジュート（黄麻）といった天然繊維に植物性染料を用いて地元で作ったサステナブルな生地を中心にしている。善き行いをしようとする気持ちはエトロに限らず、多くのテーラリング会社が大規模な変革を始めている。ゼニア財団は「環境資源と文化資源の保全」、「地域社会における持続可能な開発の促進」、「科学研究の支援」、「若者の教育提供」の4つを使命とする。さらに、ビエラアルプス地方に100 平方キロにわたる「オアジゼニア」という公園も持っている。ゼニアの紡績工場が今もあるこの地域における環境プロジェクトとして、同ブランドが創設したものだ。一方、カナーリ・オヌルス財団は医学研究、ヘルスケア、社会的支援、雇用、教育といった分野のプロジェクトに関与している。ファッション業界で倫理が重視されるようになったのはごく最近のことだが、テーラリングブランドは社会問題や環境問題に取り組む重要性を悟るのが早かった。エルメネジルド・ゼニアやブルネロ・クチネリといったブランドでは倫理やサステナビリティを配慮した運営体制を何年も前からと globalblue.com

っており、コンシャス・ファッションの真のパイオニアだ。スーツづくりは伝統に根ざしつつ、新たなアイデアや徹底したリサーチ、限界を押し広げるテクノロジーが展開される舞台にもなっている。こうした革新はホリスティックアプローチの一環だ。ブランド各社は、生地やカットに関する先進のアイデアに投資すると同時に、ビジネスモデルの開発や社会的、倫理的、サステナビリティ関連の大規模プロジェクトにも投資している。イタリアのテーラリング会社はみな善行を心がけ、未来をしっかりと見据えているのだ。

84: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

海外でのお買い物が免税にグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある30万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを踏むだけです。 1. お買い物お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。 2. 還付請求ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関で免税書類にスタンプを押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付事務所で払い戻しを受けます。お問い合わせ: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €154.95以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高15.5％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください。一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望の場合は、現金取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課されます。

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SOUVENIR

Since founding her eponymous label in 1974, Alberta Ferretti has become the go-to designer in Milan for all things beautiful, ethereal and feminine. The brand’s spring/summer 2019 collection was no exception as models headed down the runway in a perfect palette of pastels and floaty chiffon. When it comes to new season accessories, Ferretti’s pointed slip-on flats are a clear star and a brilliant souvenir of your time in Milan. Available in pastel lace and embroidered satin as well as the exceptional Save up to 15.5% by shopping tax free, see page 84

embellished pair pictured, these mules are the perfect summer shoe. Their pretty yet practical design will see you from holidays to weddings and beyond, or simply elevate your favourite summer dress. lt Alberta Ferretti shoes, €588, Alberta Ferretti, Via Montenapoleone 18, 20121 Milan, +39 02 7600 3095, albertaferretti.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 72

PHOTO: VINCENZO PATRUNO

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