SHOP Munich AW16

MUNICH | МЮНХЕН | 慕尼黑 |

MUNICH Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2016/17

Page 52 SHOWING THE WAY: discover Munich’s cool cultural scene

A SPECI AL COLLEC TION BY GIGI HADID

#TOMMYXGIGI

WEINSTRASSE 5 MÜNCHEN

Te Oberpollinger department store ofers its customers a stunning range of exquisite lifestyle goods spread over 34,000 m2. Featuring a Designer Boulevard, prestigious fashion labels, a special Concierge Service, gourmet specialities as well as anything a discerning customer requires. Visit this exciting world of luxury just waiting to be explored right in the heart of Bavaria’s capital. Te department store frst opened its doors in 1905. It has been expanded and continually modernized over the course of its more than 100-year history. Innovative interior plus an exclusive selection of products and services place the Oberpollinger a cut above the rest. DIOR · GUCCI · MIU MIU · FENDI · PRADA · CÉLINE · TOD’S · LOUIS VUITTON BURBERRY · CARTIER · MONT BLANC · MULBERRY · BOTTEGA VENETA RALPH LAUREN · LONGCHAMP · SALVATORE FERRAGAMO · MCM · AIGNER GIORGIO ARMANI · BOSS · ARMANI COLLEZIONI · LAURÈL · BELSTAFF BOGNER · LACOSTE · TED BAKER · RIMOWA · MICHAEL KORS · COCCINELLE AND MANY MORE

TIME IS A LUXURY NOWADAYS, SO LET US MAKE TIME FOR YOU! Te Oberpollinger is delighted to ofer you many exclusive services, such as: PERSONAL SHOPPING SERVICE We will happily provide you with a Personal Shopper who will accompany, serve and expertly advise you throughout your visit to Oberpollinger. Our Personal Shoppers will make your shopping trip a unique and individual experience. We cater specifcally to your personal preferences, ideas and wishes. To book your personal appointment, please contact us. T +49 89 2902 5120 · concierge@oberpollinger.de CONCIERGE SERVICE BEAUTY LOUNGE GIFT-WRAPPING SERVICE COMPLIMENTARY WIFI CUSTOMER SERVICES IN-HOUSE TAILOR TAX FREE AVAILABLE AT EACH CASH POINT. Currency choice available, which allows you to pay in your own currency. Oberpollinger München ∙ Neuhauser Str. 18 ∙ 80331 München ∙ T +49 89 2902 30 www.oberpollinger.de ∙ Opening Hours: Mon - Sat 10 am – 8 pm

MUNICH AM MARIENPLATZ Welcome to your GALERIA Kaufhof Pure lifestyle shopping – enjoy the perfect shopping adventure and ﬁnd top brands in our world of goods. Expect an exclusive selection with individual assortments from the worlds of fashion, beauty, premium watches and jewels and gourmet food as well as the streetwear in our fashion store U.STYLE. If you come from a country outside the EU, please enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof! We also offer the service City Refund and pay out all your German Tax Free Forms. We are looking forward to your visit! Please scan the QRcode with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Munich, Am Marienplatz.

Free WLAN in our store!

Your GALERIA Kaufhof Munich, Am Marienplatz

GALERIA Kaufhof...

... makes you fall in love with Germany

GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

galeria-kaufhof.de

EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen 捷克共和国

Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Германия

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this ever-more-intriguing German city. Munich has much to ofer, as our guide on page 81 reveals. Readers who appreciate world-class fashion will enjoy our feature on this season’s new oversized silhouette for outerwear (page 60), and in this issue we also explore why Bucherer is one of the world’s leading diamond experts. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Munich. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

Emma Cheevers

巴黎

Portugal Prague Riga Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius

Чехия

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

@shopcontent

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

/globalblue

ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Welcome to Munich

Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Nuremberg Oslo Paris

THE EXPLORER II Built to accompany intrepid explorers, engineered for adventures to extreme frontiers. It doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just tell time. It tells history.

OYSTER PERPETUAL E XPLORER II

CONTRIBUTORS

PHOTO: KATIE WILSON ELL

ILLUSTRATION: LAUREN ROLWING

Lauren Rolwing Lauren Rolwing created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Munich. Her eyecatching artwork has previously been commissioned by Adidas, the New York Times and Harper’s Bazaar, among others. Her graphic style makes her a perfect illustrator for this cover, based on our feature about the city’s diverse and engaging cultural scene on page 52. It shows an art gallery whose exhibits showcase some of the delights that Munich has to offer. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Beth Druce Beth Druce is a fashion and luxury writer and creative consultant. She began her career at GQ magazine, before heading to Europe to explore the world of horology. Nowadays she combines her interest in watches with skiing. globalblue.com

Hannah Lewis SHOP’s features editor Hannah Lewis read English literature and language at the University of Oxford before studying for an MA at the London College of Fashion. She has previously produced her own magazine in London.

Dionne Hélène Sneaker enthusiast Dionne Hélène is SHOP’s deputy artworker. In her spare time she writes about sneakers for Big Eyes Little Soles, and has created work for Nike and Footlocker. She also enjoys listening to Action Bronson.

Munich: NeuturmstraĂ&#x;e 5 & TheatinerstraĂ&#x;e 33

FASHION, LIFESTYLE AND MORE

You can ﬁnd these and other top brands in Karstadt stores in: Berlin: Kurfürstendamm, Schlossstrasse, Charlottenburg, Hermannplatz, Müllerstrasse / Düsseldorf: Schadowstrasse / Frankfurt: Zeil / Hamburg: Mönckebergstrasse / Hanover: Georgstrasse / Leipzig: Petersstrasse / Dresden: Prager Strasse / Cologne: Breite Strasse / Munich: Bahnhofplatz / Nuremberg: An der Lorenzkirche

Our branches in top central locations in most major German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience. Lots of customers are attracted by not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events. Enjoy your next shopping spree on a journey of discovery through our Karstadt stores. Open until 8 p.m.

DOUGL AS.EU

Beauty and more … visi Europe’ perfumery! WE WILL BE PLE ASED TO WELCOME YOU TO THE DOUGL AS WORLD OF BE AUT Y IN MUNICH : ∙ Neuhauser Straße 3, 089 - 149024700 ∙ Kaufingerstraße 12, 089 - 23241153 ∙ Weinstraße 7, 089 - 2554276 ∙ Theatinerstraße 40, 089 - 295293

Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest assortment of leading beauty brands â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories. With 1,700 perfumeries in 19 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers. Explore our world of beauty! Read more on douglas.eu

SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Lauren Rolwing Contributors Beth Druce, Maria Kirchen-Hill Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion writer Danielle De Wolfe News editor Ginger Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Charlotte Rogers Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Milkha Lala Artworking assistant Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy

GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Head of commercial Europe/ Latin America Pier Francesco Nervini Head of commercial Central Europe Ronald Christen Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialists Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko Sales manager Pino Dufter Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Tourismusamt München, Sendlingerstrasse 1, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2339 6500, muenchen-tourist.de

Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Sammy Ha, Adanna Nwachuku

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue

Munich Rosenstrasse 6 calvinklein.com

intimidate

in #mycalvins

Bella Hadid, Model

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5-times in the heart of Munich 1-time in Regensburg In our offer you will fnd the best brands at the lowest price among others:

26 | G U I D E

CONTENTS p.68

Products

Features

Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Munich this season My Favourites Pool’s Sabina Domenicale reveals her top tips for autumn/winter 2016/17 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

News 42 44

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Munich News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

Above: exquisite jewellery from Bucherer’s Diamonds Collection

Cover story: City Of Culture An atmosphere of cool creativity is making Munich one of the world’s must-visit destinations. Beth Druce reveals the people and places to know Over The Top From oversized silhouettes to extravagant embellishments, outerwear makes a statement this season, says Maria Kirchen Hill Dazzling Success With well over a century of experience in the industry, Bucherer is one of the world’s leading diamond experts. Hannah Lewis explores the brand’s striking collections

28 | G U I D E

CONTENTS Experience 76

p.76

Café Society Munich has a thriving café culture, says Isabella Redmond Styles

Guide 81

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Munich

Essentials 95

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

Translations 96 Русский Перевод 102 美文翻译 108

Souvenir 110 The essential item to bring home

E NGL I S H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE...

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru

Above: Maelu’s cakes, which can be sampled in the in-house café, are among the finest in Munich

PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

globalblue.cn 每日更新精品购物信息，分享海外省钱秘笈

VIKTUALIENMARKT 4 · 80331 MÜNCHEN

30 | P RO D U C T S

CHECK OUT

EARN YOUR STRIPES Aigner’s signature Cybill bag has been given a stunning new striped look this season. Made with contrasting suede, ponyskin and grained leather, the Cybill Linea offers textures in a host of autumnal shades, from chocolate brown to dusky rose, with touches of icy grey and classic black. Tackling the autumn/winter 2016/17 trends of colour blocking and combining tactile fabrics, the bag is stylish but Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 95

also practical, with a shoulder strap, spacious interior and a pocket for all those daily essentials. Aigner has been creating timeless bags since it was founded in Munich in 1965, and with designs such as this it’s clear to see why the label has acquired such a faultless international reputation. sm Aigner Cybill Linea bag, €1,400, Aigner, Theatinerstrasse 45, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 3070 2066, aignermunich.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 91

GANT.COM

GANT STORES MÜNCHEN FLAGSHIP STORE HOFSTATT – SENDLINGER STRASSE 10 AIRPORT MÜNCHEN TERMINAL 2 EBENE 4 AIRSIDE

32 | P RO D U C T S

MY FAVOURITES: SABINA DOMENICALE Sabina Domenicale is womenswear buyer for Pool, one of Munich’s leading concept stores. It carries an imaginative mix of luxury and avant-garde designer labels for men and women, such as Moschino, Rick Owens, Dsquared2, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Balmain, Givenchy and more, along with interior décor and lifestyle accessories. Domenicale shares her insider tips for autumn/winter 2016/17 with Ximena Daneri 1

1. ‘Naturally, Pool is my favourite store in Munich!’ Pool, Maximilianstrasse 11, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 266035, verypoolish.com

2. ‘The collection I like best for autumn/winter 2016/17 is the one from French label Faith Connexion’

3. ‘My signature fragrance is Carner Barcelona’s Palo Santo’ Carner Barcelona Palo Santo fragrance, 100ml, €145, Horst Kirchberger Make-Up Studio, Brienner Strasse 11, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 223784, carnerbarcelona.com

Apropos, Promenadeplatz 12, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2429 2141, faith-connexion.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 95

4. ‘Marsèll is my favourite shoe brand’ Marsèll boots, €675, Pool, Maximilianstrasse 11, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 266035, marsell.it

S H O P | 33

PHOTOS: (3) IVAN RAGA; (6) MIU RECK

5. ‘I always carry an Iphoria cosmetics bag with me’

6. ‘A cosy Antonia Zander cape is a must when I travel’

Iphoria cosmetics bag with iPhone charger, €99, Konen, Sendlinger Strasse 3, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 244 4220, iphoria.com

Antonia Zander Launce cape, €1,257, Lodenfrey, Mafeistrasse 7, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 210390, antoniazander.de

7. ‘I’m never without one of 2ME Style’s iPhone covers’ 2ME Style iPhone 6/6s Swarovski case, €300, 2mestyle.com

globalblue.com

34 | P RO D U C T S

ALL IN THE DETAIL Contrasting textures and gold accessories elevate your outfit to the next level

1. Marc O’Polo dress, €189.90, Marc O’Polo, Theatinerstrasse 11, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2554 6690, marc-o-polo.com

3. Roeckl hat, €89.90, Roeckl, Mafeistrasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2916 8239, roeckl.com

2. Oxydo sunglasses, €165, Fielmann, Sonnenstrasse 1, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 593108, oxydo.net

4. Swarovski earrings, €119, Swarovski, Marienplatz 20, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2303 2650, swarovski.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 95

5. Jo Malone English Pear & Freesia cologne, 100ml, €100, Oberpollinger, Neuhauser Strasse 18, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 290230, jomalone.com

PHOTO: (5)© FOUR SQUARE STUDIO INC

S H O P | 35

PHOTOS: (6) ANTONIO BARRELLA; (9) JACQUES GIRAL; (10) TOCCAFONDO RAVI

6. Bulgari necklace, €12,000, Bulgari, Maximilianstrasse 17, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 212 1760, bulgari.com

8. Saint Laurent bag, €1,850, Saint Laurent, Maximilianstrasse 24, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 9699 7990, saintlaurent.com

7. Marc Cain cape, €449, Marc Cain, Windenmacherstrasse 2, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 4613 6972, marc-cain.com

9. Chanel Joues Contraste blusher, €42.99, Douglas, Kaufngerstrasse 12, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2324 1153, chanel.com

globalblue.com

10. Salvatore Ferragamo shoes, €1,290, Salvatore Ferragamo, Maximilianstrasse 29, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2916 0911, ferragamo.com

36 | P RO D U C T S

COLOUR POP Mix winter blacks and greys with red and yellow for a playful touch

1. Burberry coat, €2,295, Burberry, Perusastrasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 226564, burberry.com

3. Bally zip briefcase, €895, Bally, Maximilianstrasse 11-15, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 290 8240, bally.com

2. Atelier des Ors Lune Féline fragrance, 100ml, €225, Parfümerie Wiedemann, Weissenburger Strasse 40, 81667 Munich, +49 (0)89 448 0035, atelierdesors.com

4. Strellson trainers, €159.95, Strellson, Pasing Arcaden, Pasinger Bahnhofsplatz 5, 81241 Munich, +49 (0)89 8207 1400, strellson.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 95

5. Victorinox watch, €595, Galeria Kaufhof, Kaufngerstrasse 1-5, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 231851, victorinox.com

THE WORLD’S LARGEST MEN’S FASHION STORE

In the heart of Munich HIRMER offers fashion highlights spread over 9,000 m2 of shopping experience. On 6 foors you will fnd the entire world of menswear with all leading brands:

Monday – Friday: from 9.30 a.m. to 8.00 p.m. | Saturday: from 9.00 a.m. to 8.00 p.m. Kaufngerstraße 28 | 80331 München | Phone +49 89 23683-0 | www.hirmer.de

HIRMERMENST YLE

38 | P RO D U C T S

ANIMAL INSTINCT Mix and match prints and textures for a fashion-forward look 1

1. Airfield jacket, €479, Airfeld, Theatinerstrasse 46, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2111 1977, airfeld.at

3. Louis Vuitton necklace, from €650, Louis Vuitton, Residenzstrasse 2, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 5589 38000, louisvuitton.com

5. Chloé shoes, €650, Chloé, Residenzstrasse 18, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 228 5268, chloe.com

2. Mulberry bag, €1,750, Mulberry at Oberpollinger, Neuhauser Strasse 18, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2902 4616, mulberry.com

4. Elizabeth Arden Superstart Skin Renewal Booster, 30ml, €59.95, Douglas, Kaufngerstrasse 12, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2324 1153, elizabetharden.com

6. Michael Kors trousers, €210, Michael Kors, Theatinerstrasse 36, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 4520 5100, michaelkors.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 95

It’s more fun, when it’s tax-free!

Grand Gourmet | Knife set 5 pieces

Gourmet Plus | Cookware set 7 pieces

instead of 384,75* €

instead of 789,90* €

289,–

499,–

with WMF Performance Cut®

*sum of the prices

WMF Stores München

WMF Outet Ingolstadt Village

Weinstraße 4, Tel. 089 / 296751 Hanauer Straße 68, Tel. 089 /14010676 Willy-Brandt-Platz 5, Tel. 089 / 93094465

Otto-Hahn-Str. 1, Tel. 0841 / 8869933

www.wmf.de/ﬁlialen

40 | P RO D U C T S

TRAVEL READY Combine classic accessories to create the perfect on-the-move experience

1. Smythson briefcase, price on request, Apropos, Promenadeplatz 12, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2429 2141, smythson.com

3. GoPro Hero 4 camera, €429.95, Blue Tomato, Thomas-Wimmer-Ring 14, 80538 Munich, +49 (0)89 2555 94610, gopro.com

2. Rimowa Topas Stealth Electronic Tag suitcase, €929, Rimowa, Tal 4, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2323 8088, rimowa.com

4. Vertu Aster Leaf phone, €8,500, Vertu, Maximilianstrasse 28, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2111 1497, vertu.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 95

5. Beoplay H2 headphones, €199, Bang & Olufsen, Maximilianstrasse 32, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2422 4034, beoplay.com

PHOTOS: (3) CARTER DOW PHOTOGRAPHY; (4) JASON BUTCHER; (5) JEPPE SØRENSEN

42 | N E W S

SHOP WINDOW

NORTHERN LIGHT Influential Scandinavian fashion label Acne Studios has opened its first store in Munich. The light-filled space, which covers 180 square metres, provides a suitable setting for the brand’s ever-popular minimalist designs. The interior features the brand’s signature stainless-steel walls and bespoke fittings, Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 95

including custom-built LED lighting suspended from the building’s original ceiling and furniture designed by long-time Acne Studios collaborator Max Lamb. Innovation and tradition combine to create the feeling of a definitive style destination. rp Acne Studios, Maximiliansplatz 10, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2324 9990, acnestudios.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 90

EATALY IS THE ONLY PLACE WHERE YOU CAN

EAT

Choose between pasta, fish, pizza, vegetarian or meat restaurants and enjoy the best Italian dishes.

SHOP

The finest selection of Italian products, freshly bread baked, the greatest cheeses and cured meats, the original Gargnano pasta and wine selected from the best Italian winemakers.

LEARN Discover our food, our chefs, and the producers who inspire us through our selection of cooking classes and events.

Montag - Sonntag: 8:00 - 23.00

EATALY MÜNCHEN Viktualienmarkt 15, München

EATALYDE

w w w. e a t a l y. d e

EATALYDE

44 | N E W S

IN BRIEF

COME RAIN OR SHINE

Karl Lagerfeld has designed the Karlbox (€2,500) for Faber-Castell. The limitededition box is filled with a large selection of Faber-Castell drawing tools and art supplies which have been carefully selected by the designer himself

Fashion label Windsor’s Hybrid Outdoor collection for men fuses sportswear and tailoring with outstanding results. The combination of simple textures, discreet details and classic elements results in high-quality jackets and outerwear such as Coat Bruno (pictured; €799) made of a resilient but good-looking wool and nylon blend. Thanks to this forward-thinking approach, bad weather need never be a problem again. gc Windsor, Dienerstrasse 16, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2102 7908, windsor.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 86

PHOTO: KALORY LTD

ABOUT TIME

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 95

The first Richard Mille boutique in Germany opened in spring 2016. Located on Munich’s prestigious Maximilianstrasse, the innovative Swiss watch brand’s store is spread across two levels, and has a sleek modern interior featuring black leather and ebony wall coverings, with crackled and mirrored glass. Visitors to the store can browse the brand’s distinctive range of timepieces, including covetable designs from the sports, women’s and limitededition collections. gc Richard Mille, Maximilianstrasse 34, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 4522 1300, richardmille.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 89

S H O P | 45

THE PERFECT FIT German designer Marc Anthony and gallery owner Max Meyer-Abich founded their Anton Meyer brand in 2012, driven by a shared passion for well-tailored menswear at sensible prices. The first Anton Meyer store opened its doors in 2013, and now the brand has a second, in Munich. Visit to discover stylish, impeccably cut pieces for men made using only the highest-quality fabrics. gc Anton Meyer, Brunnstrasse 8, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2324 1822, antonmeyer.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 84

RACING CERTAINTY British heritage brand Belstaff has always embraced the spirit of adventure, and since its founding in 1924 it has partnered with teams and individuals who share a similar passion for excitement, from pioneering aviators to extreme sports enthusiasts. This year, Belstaff has created a capsule collection to celebrate the 40th anniversary of British sporting legend James Hunt’s legendary Formula One Championship win in 1976. Created in collaboration with the driver’s sons, Tom and Freddie, the James Hunt 40th Anniversary capsule collection comprises six exclusive pieces, including the two standout hand-waxed leather jackets pictured, one a four-pocketed belted style (€1,695) and the other a shorter, two-pocket version (€1,595). Lined in red with white vertical stitching – to reflect Hunt’s race suit – the jackets add a little Formula One flair to Belstaff’s signature style. hl Belstaff, Maximilianstrasse 16, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2388 9346, belstaff.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 89 globalblue.com

Now at Karstadt sports:

THE TOP BRANDS IN SPORT. GOLF | 2016

GOLF EQUIPMENT WORTH THE DRIVE.

Karstadt Sports GmbH Theodor-Althoff-Straße 1 | 45133 Essen | WP0509

S H O P | 47

SHINE ON Established in 1878, Wempe started out as a modest watchmaker’s store. Nearly 140 years later, it is now a worldwide jewellery brand, but remains a fourth-generation family-owned business. Among the stars of this season’s collection is Wempe’s haute joaillerie diamond necklace (€215,000). Made using three pear-shaped diamonds and almost 300 brilliant-cut diamonds, this stunning item of jewellery is a masterpiece. gc Wempe, Maximilianstrasse 10, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 291299, wempe.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 89

PHOTO (TOP): MATTHIAS HOFFMANN

IN THE MIX Located on a tree-lined residential street in the Schwabing district, Falkenberg is one of Munich’s most appealing stores. Founder Sabine Falkenberg is responsible for the imaginative, ever-changing selection of furniture, home accessories and fashion pieces from world-renowned labels, including French globalblue.com

favourite Astier de Villatte, Danish design master Louis Poulsen, and British style king Paul Smith. The owner is often on hand to offer her expert advice to customers, making a visit a particularly rewarding experience. gc Falkenberg, Franz-Joseph-Strasse 21, 80801 Munich, +49 (0)89 3866 5077, falkenberg-muenchen.com

48 | N E W S

MONTBLANC MEANS BUSINESS Montblanc has garnered an elite following thanks to its exceptional pens, and its latest leather range can only add to the brand’s standing. The Urban Spirit collection consists of 22 items, ranging from wallets and card holders to briefcases, a backpack and a large dufel bag, that cater for every business-travel eventuality. As well as looking good, the pieces are equipped with Montblanc Shield, an innovative lining which provides additional protection against the theft of personal data, ensuring you travel safely and in style. sm Montblanc, Maximilianstrasse 14, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2554 6706, montblanc.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 89

HAPPY ANNIVERSARY Chopard, which is known across the world for its exquisite jewellery, is marking the 40th anniversary of its Happy Diamonds collection by updating the line. An innovative technique of prong setting means that Chopard’s diamonds now sparkle even more brightly, and this approach has been applied to the new offering. The ethereal Happy Dreams range has been inspired by clouds, and each piece features moving diamonds which appear to dance freely; the necklace in white gold (€3,930) features 21 of these precious stones and one moving diamond. gc Chopard, Maximilianstrasse 11, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 224343, chopard.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 89

Earlier this year, Italian label Furla opened two stores in Munich airport, both in the brand new satellite Terminal T2. The two spaces are filled with the brand’s vibrant range of handbags and small leather goods, which exemplify the harmonious union of contemporary design with traditional craftsmanship. This recent opening provides travellers with a perfect chance to shop for last-minute souvenirs that will be worthy companions on any journey. gc Furla, Terminal T2, Munich Airport, +49 (0)89 9758 4243, furla.com Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 95

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An atmosphere of cool creativity is making Munich one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mustvisit destinations. Beth Druce reveals the people and places to know

PHOTO: ARNOLD JAEGER WERNER CC BY 2.0

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e ask a lot from our city expeditions. Where once a little history and local cuisine went a long way, increasingly we look for destinations that have a sizeable and varied list of qualities to recommend them – which is exactly why Munich is so popular right now. The third largest city in Germany and the capital of the state of Bavaria, it has grown in prominence since the early 1970s, when the 1972 Olympics brought structural investment and international exposure. Fastforward almost 45 years, and Munich offers a more diverse and engaging experience than ever before. ‘The Bavarian capital offers the best of both worlds: it is historic and modern, small and cosmopolitan, relaxed and happening,’ 96 /

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comments Niels Jäger. The creative director of basketball brand K1X, Jäger is a Munich native, and a proprietor of restaurants, a nightclub and the recently opened Flushing Meadows hotel. The latter takes inspiration from Jäger’s time in New York and was designed in conjunction with prominent names in culture, design and sport – a collaboration that Jäger sees as encompassing the essence of Munich today. ‘Obviously, the city boasts lots of options with regards to nature, as the Alps and the lakes are so close,’ he explains. ‘But at the same time Munich offers a grand variety of urban culture, nightlife, arts and gastronomy.’ For the arts, Haus der Kunst is a public museum dedicated to exploring contemporary art, while the three Pinakothek galleries in the Kunstareal (‘art Previous page: a loft studio at the Flushing Meadows hotel Above: a typical dish at Cantine Cantona restaurant

district’) carry works by some of the bestknown names in Western art history. However, it is the Lenbachhaus on Luisenstrasse, with its three-storey gold-coloured extension designed by Norman Foster, which is currently causing a stir. Home to the museum’s collection of Expressionist pieces, it showcases works by the Blaue Reiter (‘Blue Rider’) group, founded in Munich in the early 20th century, which included artists such as Wassily Kandinsky, Franz Marc and Paul Klee. Concept stores are a fast-growing phenomenon in Munich, where retailers that offer an eclectic mixture of designer fashion and carefully chosen lifestyle pieces are appreciated by both natives and visitors. Bean Store, on Theresienstrasse, is one example. Founder Laura Bohnenberger, an art history and fashion journalism graduate, was keen to bring a more personal retail experience to Munich. ‘We wanted to make a difference in the way we worked with customers,’ she says of the light, colourful space, whose contents span a wide range of prices. Bean Store stocks Acne Above (from top): one of the rooms at the Neue Pinakothek; the Haus der Kunst

PHOTO: MAXIMILIAN GEUTER

PHOTO: © ALTE PINAKOTHEK

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PHOTO: ARNOLD JAEGER WERNER CC BY 2.0

For demanding visitors, Munich offers a more diverse and engaging experience than ever before

PHOTO: SIMON BURKO

Studios, APC, Carven, Maison Kitsuné and YMC. ‘We also have a lot of exclusive brands, including Maria Black, Maska, Kaibosh, Kow Tow and OZN, but what we are really proud of is how many creatives come together and connect through our store.’ At Cantine Cantona on bustling Schellingstrasse, fresh, vibrant dishes made from local, seasonal ingredients are the order of the day. The eatery is one of a growing number of restaurants that are championing relaxed, informal dining, a far cry from the heavier Bavarian-style food and more traditional plates that have characterised Munich for so long.

Above (from top): Bean Store founder Laura Bohnenberger; Cantine Cantona offers a more relaxed way of eating

‘The proximity to Italy has influenced Munich … so there are a lot of great Italian places to eat’, notes Jäger. ‘And right now, there seem to be a lot of innovative Asian concepts coming up, mostly Vietnamese and Japanese.’ Emiko, for instance, is a modern Japanese restaurant in the Louis hotel on Viktualienmarkt, whose innovative dishes are designed to be shared. The nightlife in the city is also a growing draw, something Jäger traces back to the early 1990s when ‘pioneering music producers made Munich a hotbed for disco and music in general’. His favourite haunts include Schumann’s Bar on Odeonsplatz, with its minimalist brushed-steel-and-wood interior. The place comes to life after midnight, when owner (and some-time model) Charles Schumann’s sophisticated drinks selection offers something for all tastes. With all this talk of culture, one could be forgiven for overlooking one of Munich’s most celebrated, and long-standing, attractions.

PHOTO: © LOUIS HOTEL GMBH MÜNCHEN

PHOTO: SCHUMANN´S GMBH

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Saunter through the 365-hectare Englischer Garten (‘English garden’) and you can watch surfers ride an artificial stream, lose yourself among the trees or simply sit and have a quiet moment by the Kleinhesseloher lake. After enjoying everything else Munich has to offer, it might be just what’s needed

Above (from top): the elegant interior of Schumann’s Bar; modern Japanese cuisine at Emiko

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From oversized silhouettes to extravagant embellishments, outerwear makes a statement this season, says Maria Kirchen-Hill Above: Russian caption xxxxx qui offciducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi q

hen it comes to keeping out the cold, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to reach for a timeless style, such as a navy pea coat or camel-coloured mackintosh. To be in fashion this season, however, means putting aside trusty staples and adopting a more dramatic look. From New York to Milan, designers have embraced the extravagant this season, proving that outerwear can make just as much of a statement as what lies beneath. Demna Gvasalia presented his first collection as creative director of Balenciaga this season, fusing the edgy, street-inspired 97 / 107

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aesthetic for which he has become known at Vetements with the DNA of this illustrious fashion house. When it came to outerwear, Gvasalia showcased one of the biggest trends of the season: oversized silhouettes. His voluminous, sporty jackets came in strong colours and were worn insouciantly shrugged off the shoulder. At Vetements, a similarly sporty and slouchy aesthetic prevailed, though here the silhouette was further exaggerated, with huge jackets falling far below the waist. Padded jackets in every conceivable shape and size were an unexpected phenomenon this Previous page: Marques Almeida autumn/winter 2016/17 Above (from left): Vetements; Balenciaga, both autumn/winter 2016/17

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Padded jackets in every conceivable shape, size and colour were an unexpected phenomenon this season Above (from left): Carven; Emilio Pucci, both autumn/winter 2016/17

season. At Balenciaga, there were outsized puffer jackets on the catwalk, some worn off the shoulder, others gathered at the neck and with hoods. Acne Studios, too, adopted the off-theshoulder look, while Marques Almeida’s jackets featured exaggerated shoulder pads. Print and colour were also key. Carven’s padded creations looked sweet in soft pastels, while Vivienne Westwood’s came in glamorous gold. At Emilio Pucci, one standout jacket featured a mountain scene picked out in vivid colours, the perfect piece to give a fashion edge to après-ski looks. At Alexander McQueen, a quilt-like jacket

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If a padded jacket doesn’t suit your eveningwear ethos, opt for another of the season’s standouts: the cape Above (from left): Alexander McQueen; Marc Jacobs, both autumn/winter 2016/17

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

was realised in beautiful softly coloured florals and edged with fur, the juxtaposition of strong shapes and delicate adornments offering a daring choice for eveningwear. If a padded jacket doesn’t suit your eveningwear ethos, opt for another of the season’s standouts: the cape. Erdem’s dark floral versions provided romance with an edge. Marc Jacobs and Alexander McQueen both made cases for floor-length styles. Dramatic black swirls picked out with sequins adorned the dark grey woollen creations at Marc Jacobs, while Alexander McQueen’s delicate sheer capes matched stunning evening gowns, both decorated with jewels that brought to mind the stars in the night sky. Nor were capes reserved

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gold jacquard, artistic prints and heavy-duty belts. A similarly playful mood was felt at Dolce & Gabbana, where cocoon coats were embroidered with lifelike kittens and finished with appliqué bows. MSGM proved the power of brights with its attention-grabbing coral coat, complete with pillarbox-red belt and canary yellow stole. Gucci’s bright yellow fur coat was paired with the same shade head to toe, providing a look that’s only for the brave. Leather, which featured heavily across the catwalks, was also given the paintbox treatment. Both rich navy and soft sky-blue leather brought something

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

for after hours. Dior’s capelets added texture to simple silhouettes, while at Chanel capes were knitted and brightly coloured, bringing a modern edge to the brand’s iconic two-pieces. It wasn’t just boldly shaped outerwear that stood out on the catwalks; elsewhere designers used striking colours, embellishments and unusual materials to update classic styles. At Miu Miu, designer Miuccia Prada opted for an eclectic look, with one eye-catching coat combining strong patterns, candy pinks and hot reds, bejewelled shoulders and even sewnon patches. The experimentation continued at Prada, with coats and jackets featuring

Above (from left): Prada; Miu Miu, both autumn/winter 2016/17

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different to macs at Céline. Courrèges’s colourful leather jackets were cropped at the waist, Max Mara made a case for sunshine yellow, and Valentino’s blood red coats had a gothic edge. Patent leather was another huge hit, with brands including Burberry and Proenza Schouler updating enduring styles with this high-shine material. But when it came to leather, the biker jacket was the frontrunner this season, featuring in a swathe of collections. Marc Jacobs and Balenciaga both stuck to the usual black, but added newness with exaggerated proportions and silhouettes.

Courrèges and Chloé used splashes of colour to refresh the style. Etro’s signature boho prints took the form of embroidery across the body of its bikers, with sleeves and lapels left in black leather. And Fausto Puglisi’s creamcoloured leather was enhanced with swirling embellishments on the sleeves, and finished with a smattering of studs in various shapes and colours across the lapels. This season’s outerwear offerings from the world’s leading designers include dramatic pieces for every possible taste and occasion, proving that falling temperatures are absolutely no barrier to style

Above (from left): Proenza Schouler; Chloé, both autumn/winter 2016/17

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DAZZLING SUCCESS

With well over a century of experience in the industry, Bucherer is one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading diamond experts. Hannah Lewis explores the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s striking collections

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ounded in 1888, Bucherer has grown from a small family-owned business into one of the world’s leading fine watch and jewellery specialists. Now in the hands of the third generation, with Jörg G Bucherer at the helm, the brand has embraced numerous styles and developments over the years. But one passion has remained steadfast throughout: diamonds. For generations, Bucherer has cultivated its expertise in the market, from selecting the most fabulous stones to enlisting the most skilled craftsmen to transform these precious gems into beautiful jewellery. Today, the brand is one of the world’s foremost experts in the field of diamond jewellery. ‘The diamond is the undisputed star of the gemstones … its magic sparkle gives expression to emotion in its purest form,’ says chief diamond buyer Tobias Lanz, who began at Bucherer 20 years ago as a goldsmith and has gradually specialised. ‘I was always fascinated by diamonds and gemstones,’ he says.

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Today, Bucherer is one of the world’s foremost experts in the field of diamond jewellery The diamonds team may be vast – including buyers to gemologists, goldsmiths to polishers – but each and every single member shares the same enthusiasm for and commitment to diamonds and to excellence. This is reflected in Bucherer’s Diamonds Collection, which the brand describes as ‘an expression of pure passion’. The Diamonds Collection comprises a wide range of exquisite pieces. From simple Previous page and above: examples of the beautiful pieces that make up Bucherer’s Diamonds Collection

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everyday creations – a dainty bracelet or a pair of stud earrings – to standout, unashamedly glamorous occasionwear, Bucherer’s team takes its passion for these stones and translates it into items for every possible occasion and client. Often inspired by natural forms, the brand’s trademark style is elegant, feminine and refined, embracing the enduring classicism of diamonds and the precious metals that complement them, while always remaining thoroughly modern. At the heart of this process is the undisputable quality of the stones. Luckily Bucherer is one of the world’s most prominent experts in selecting diamonds, with Lanz well placed to oversee the matter. ‘Bucherer offers one of the largest selections of diamond jewellery in Europe,’ he explains. ‘Because of its solid expertise, long-standing connections and well-developed critical faculty, the company is able to buy very rare gemstones and to offer its clientele top-quality diamonds at fair prices.’ Above (from top): a master craftsman’s workstation as he creates one of Bucherer’s exceptional pieces; beautiful jewellery from the Diamonds Collection

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‘We are looking for top-quality diamonds,’ he continues. ‘[These are] defined by the four Cs: cut, colour, clarity and carat.’ The most important of these will differ depending on the client, he explains, but for Bucherer the cut will always come first, as it’s ‘the only dimension made by human beings’. Though the demand for diamonds is ‘continuously increasing’, says Lanz, the company will never compromise in its quest for perfection. Bucherer’s expertise and its established position in the market mean that the brand has access to some of the rarest stones, including fancy colour diamonds. While in white diamonds it’s the absence of colour that determines value, with fancy colour diamonds – those that fall outside the usual colour range – it’s the saturation of their colour that counts. According to some estimates, only one carat of fancy colour diamonds is mined for every 10,000 carats of white diamonds, making these stones some of the most coveted and expensive in the world. Above (clockwise from top left): a bracelet from the Bucherer Diamonds Collection; a master craftsman at work on an exceptional piece; a ring from the Diamonds Collection

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Above: at work on one of the exceptional pieces, with its rare fancy colour diamonds

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Each year, Bucherer presents a limited collection of pieces featuring these rare coloured gems. Created in the brand’s workshops on the shores of Lake Lucerne, this year’s exceptional pieces are two high-jewellery necklaces featuring fancy yellow pear-cut diamonds. Inspired by traditional St Gallen embroidery, from the Swiss town of the same name, the pieces balance a bold opulence with the sense of fragility evoked by lace. The first necklace embraces tassels; featuring 10 fancy yellow pear-cut diamonds weighing 21.7 carats, it took around 150 hours to create. The second, which took around 200 hours for Bucherer’s skilled craftsmen to complete, features 12 fancy yellow pear-cut diamonds – weighing 12.1 carats – and is finished with

an outstanding 7.02 carat fancy light yellow pear-cut diamond. Worth in the range of half a million euros each, these two pieces are completely unique, and available on request to only the most discerning of clients. So rare are the gems that one of the most difficult elements of the creation process was sourcing so many diamonds of such quality in matching colours. Only a brand with a standing such as Bucherer’s could have possibly hoped to obtain such rarities. Whether you’re looking for an exceptional creation, the perfect piece for a special occasion or recipient, or simply a beautiful addition to your everyday wardrobe, you can’t go wrong with the Bucherer Diamonds Collection. As Lanz says, ‘We only accept the highest standard and do not make any compromises’

Above: one of Bucherer’s exceptional pieces, a necklace inspired by traditional Swiss lace and embroidery

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CAFÉ SOCIETY Munich’s café culture goes from strength to strength, says Isabella Redmond Styles

The Bavarian capital may be better known for its beer than its coffee, but visitors to the city need have no concerns about finding a perfectly brewed espresso. Munich’s earliest coffee houses were established in the late 18th century by Italians keen to spread their country’s café culture. Several of these are still in existence and look as if they’ve hardly changed since they were founded. In recent years, however, these venerable institutions, with their historic globalblue.com

décor and delightfully old-world atmosphere, have been joined by a host of young upstarts that provide a different experience: cool interiors, in-house roasteries and a more eclectic food selection, among other things. All, however, provide a restful place to pause over a cup of impeccably made coffee and something sweet – traditional German biscuits, French-inspired patisserie or US-style cheesecake, perhaps – or a more substantial dish.

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MAN VERSUS M ACH I N E Man Versus Machine is Munichâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s answer to the wave of speciality coffee shops that have become a feature of major European cities. The venue is both a roastery and cafĂŠ, and the team behind it is passionate about sourcing the best single-origin beans from Central America, Kenya, Ethiopia and beyond. The

interior is as accomplished and considered as the coffee and includes plenty of eye-catching pieces from Artek, such as Alvar Aalto lamps and tables from Ilmari Tapiovaara. Order a faultless flat white and a slice of the very popular banana bread. Man Versus Machine, Mullerstrasse 23, 80469 Munich, +49 (0)89 8004 6681, mvsmcoffee.com

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MAELU

Made locally using traditional artisan methods, Maelu’s cakes are some of the best in Munich. If you can tear yourself away from the mouth-watering display in the store, the in-house café is the ideal spot to linger over a cup of coffee and one of the exquisite creations, such as Florentine apple cake, pecan cheesecake or a chocolate éclair. Those in the city during the festive season should keep an eye out for the delicious Vanillekipferl, a seasonal German crescentshaped biscuit. Maelu, Theatinerstrasse 32, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2429 2597, maelu.de

globalblue.com

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Café Lotti’s founder wanted it to be a ‘second living room’ for its customers, and its sugared-almond pink walls, pretty chandelier lighting and strings of coloured bunting certainly help to create a soothing atmosphere. The menu is just as appealing, featuring coffee from Dinzler roastery, widely regarded as

one of the best in Germany, and a tempting selection of cakes made in-house, plus light lunch dishes and snacks. Visit after 10am for one of the set breakfasts, which include options for vegans, or return later for a slice of the café’s legendary chocolate tart. Café Lotti, Schleisheimer Strasse 13, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 6151 9197, cafe-lotti.de

soups, salads, sandwiches and pasta dishes, and there’s also an inventive cocktail menu, which includes a very moreish apple pie mint julep.

Cole & Porter, Sendlinger Strasse 10, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 8189 3854, coleandporter.de

CAFÉ LOTTI

COLE & PORTER

Cole & Porter has quickly become one of the hangouts of choice for Munich’s most fashionable residents. Open from 10am to 2am for everything from a snack to something more substantial, its appeal extends beyond its convenience. The décor is immaculate, with chic touches such the trumpet lamps above the bar and a profusion of freshly cut flowers. Stop by in the morning for a reviving coffee with a Nutella croissant or cinnamon bun, or visit mid-afternoon to sample something from the selection of cakes. More substantial meals include homemade

5-times in the heart of Munich 1-time in Regensburg In our offer you will fnd the best brands at the lowest price among others:

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GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Munich with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from where to buy the softest cashmere to a store for all ages. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/munich.

A Glimpse of Munich

SHOP, the world’s leading travel and shopping guide, wants to learn more about you, our readers. To tell us more about yourself, and have the chance to win an iPad Pro, visit globalblue.com/shopsurvey, or scan the QR code. Above: the wooden Chinese tower in the Englischer Garten was first built in 1790, and designed to resemble a pagoda

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SHOP HIGHLIGHTS Man Versus Machine Trendy café and roastery Man Versus Machine takes coffee making to the next level. Man Versus Machine, Mullerstrasse 23, 80469 Munich, +49 (0)89 8004 6681, mvsmcoffee.com FEATURED ON PAGE 77

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MCM Invest in fabulously wellmade leather accessories from Munich-based MCM. MCM Studio, Brienner Strasse 1, E I NST EINST R. 80333 Munich, +49MAX-WEBER-PLATZ (0)89 2420 7622, mcmworldwide.com FEATURED ON PAGE 110

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Haus der Kunst Be inspired by the contemPRI N Z Rart porary display at the E G Eon NTEN STR . wonderful Haus der Kunst. Haus der Kunst, PrinzregentenstrasseHotel 1, 80538 Munich, Prinzregent +49 (0)89 2112 7113,

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Galeria Kaufhof

DIRK ROSSMANN ● SCHUHSALON MARCO ●

O2 GER MA N Y ● ALL ERL EI ● FO OT LOC K ER ● SAT UR N ● HEL A KO S MET IK ● P IMK IE ● JAC K WO LFS K IN ● TRE T TER S CH UHE ● ● FC BAYE RN SWARO VSK I ● ● BETT EN RID P.88 CHR IST ● BO N ITA ● ● OAS IS AUG UST I NER GRO S S G AST STÄTTE N ● APO LLO -OP TIK ● SPO RT SCH ECK ● TK MA XX ● THO M A S ● TAL LY WE IJL ● KULT ● PLA NET ● IN TER NAT IO NAL LUD WIG S-A POT HEK E E● ●C BEATE U HSE ● E ● V NTRUM SNI P E S T EXT IL ● E IC H -A P O T THE H&M ● KE ROL AND SCH U HE ●C ET TS ● RAB ●M T R E TRASSE PLA NET ● ● H A X KRU E & E VE E LY N ● H R R M A NG M AN GO ● ● B HETZEN N GESC UCH HEN ECK E E KE R AU R ER G

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Rosenstrasse & Sendlinger Strasse SE R HE AC SB ES M EL HR K M TI RE R NA ● TE S OP L T ER ● A R CK L EISH A N NG C M LI ● RO E AU T RO UL ● S B EK -B TIC ● EL UT OP ● KA ● TZ E Y e n EI AC K E AB on NW F K E EJ E● HÖ TH H R SL SC O UH OT ● ECC N O -A P ER ● CH ● THE LER LM R - S CH S PA ● AD FIT Y ● RT TE ● PO IE& ET DR T S ICH TR MB S● ER E P A O ● ID AN DR I T CR SU PL R AD AN O ● ER ● JBF G T AB SE S I H ● OR PH ● EU AB OP O ME AT LI SH D - G BE DE DY OY ● CO BO R LL E TH TTE E D● ● TR IBO AN ● ● H RL ER LO TC B E S I LV ● PO TIM UIK O' L● RE ● Q RC PA E S ● MA ER AP AL ● X U K EC RT A N E S EO R G N IC BA ZE E ● ER ● ET ES OR ER E AM H H LON & M CH LL ● EK IS ● Y E TH P R F RIKE OE ● ● MOR IBO APO F DE ● TCH M LE H A T SH ON ● A ● SC EN VISI SE ● AS E 17 ● K AR TZ AU I N C RI V KR RP ● GÖ R CO M ● UC SU ’S U S ● M VI HM ● LIPP OH LE SC ● KAD A● DI ● ● CA IK AR MET S KO

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WELLENDORFF Bring back memories of warm-weather holidays with Wellendorff’s new A Day by the Sea collection. Taking the colours associated with a coastal landscape – the deep blue of the sea, the golden light of the sun reflected on the water, the red and orange of the sunset – Wellendorff has created a range of mood-enhancing pieces. Highlights include the Reflections on the Water ring (pictured far right), which has three rotating octagonal rings decorated with engraved squares in shades of blue to create a mosaic effect, echoing the everchanging colours of the ocean. Wellendorff, Dienerstrasse 18, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2102 0790, wellendorff.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 86

U-Bahn

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Restaurant

Featured In This Issue

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Weinstrasse

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SELECTED STORES IN LUDWIG BECK: Thomas Sabo

JUW E L IE THO R CARL MAS S V IC T H B IE B L ● O R IN ● OX ●

MARIENPLATZ

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Dienerstrasse & Landschaftstrasse HR

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● MANUFACTUM

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● LES PETITS

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● WINDSOR P.44 ● PORSCHE DESIGN

F X RIEDERER ●

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SCHIRME IM RATHAUS AUMILLER ●

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RESI FRIEDEL LEDER & MODE ●

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● LOUIS VUITTON ● BUFFALO ● BUCHERER ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● JUWELIER LEICHT

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WERNER SCHERER

PHOTO: ©YORKHOVEST.COM

Werner Scherer has been keeping Munich’s men looking stylish since 1951. The store is well known for its exquisite shirts, made by hand from the finest cotton or Italian silk, but it also offers custom-made suits and jackets. Complete the look with a few carefully chosen accessories, such as a dashing neck scarf. Werner Scherer, Platzl 5, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 221824, werner-scherer.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 89

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Restaurant

Place Of Interest

S H O P | 87

BREITER

brands such as Stetson and Borsolino, alongside versatile and essential accessories such as cosy wool and cashmere scarves. Breiter, Kaufingerstrasse 23-26, 80331 Munich, +49 (0) 89 8905 8401, hutbreiter.de

PHOTO: CHRISTIAN VOGEL

Known for more than 150 years as the place to go in Munich for fabulous hats and accessories, Breiter has recently undergone a thoughtful renovation. Discover hats for every occasion and season by esteemed

Kaufingerstrasse E

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SELECTED STORES IN PASSAGE KAUFINGERTOR: Durance En Provence Goldschmiede Arntz Görtz 17 Hallhuber Leaf Leysieffer Orsay

M D UN DO HE AM SC DER Ä W IE M P ● HO YS R OD E E B ORK H T Y ● T KA W NE SPRI UF ● ING E ● ER ●

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● URBAN OUTFITTERS

Featured In This Issue

Marienplatz

HAF

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BETTENRID

PHOTO: ROMAN THOMAS

Those looking for everything for the perfect night’s sleep should head to Bettenrid, which celebrates its 100th anniversary this year. The company was founded in 1916 in Munich by Rosa Zaininger, and originally specialised in cleaning and restoring beds and bedsprings, but soon expanded into selling mattresses and bedlinen. Under Zaininger’s daughter, Hedwig Rid, the company continued to prosper and now has two stores in Munich and one in Frankfurt. People spend around a third of their life in bed, and Bettenrid’s highly professional consultants are committed to finding their customers the right bed and bedding for their individual needs. Bettenrid, Neuhauser Strasse 12, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 21101, bettenrid.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 84

Tal

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Residenzstrasse & Maximilianstrasse RE PL AY

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O ES ● BÄ M K AN DI S O D EH AU S LI N R ● KE ● & K AN DI SM AN IN N EN EI O N RI CH TURG AN IC LU X U N ● RY ● N G EN TA PE TE N ● HOGA M O D EH GO LF N ● AU S M A RI O N H EI IN O ● N RI CH CH KR IN ES BU CH H AN FR AN ZI LO E ● SK A D LU TE PP IC H N G L W ER N ER ● ● G AL ER IE IR VA N LA AN ● AC M A X DI K ● ET L● TI FFAN Y & CO BO G N ER ● ● GÖ SS L UMANI TE X TI L ● ● EI LL BU CH ES ● LO U IS VU IT TO N M ER ER ● AI SO N ●

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P.47 WEM PE ● FEN BL DI ● M O NA N C PA IN TBL ●E ANC ● P.86 P.45 ● V TRO WER J IM M ● NER BEL S Y ● C E R S AC C H SCH TA F F O O ● ERE ● D OH O PA R E ● R● OME ● B L C E D P.4 GA ● ● P R IO N I & G A B B 8 ANA ● E OOL D IO R ● MRMENE O N C G IL D ● K IT O LER O ZE N ● CART GNA IE R ● Res HER S A IN MÈS (I n s t a u r a n t T LA ● i URE d V e Ho ue Ja NT ● ● BU hresze tel Vi e i LG A R I t e n Ke r mpi ●H nski U ) V ● TO GO B OS VA L E R T U ● S E ● P O D ’S J IL S N T IN O ● L O ● LO RAL AND UNÜ P E R R● TZE ● E S O P IA N H L A U R R● CAD EN A G IO R A SP G IO ORT ARM ANI ● POM ELL A TO ● ● SA LVAT NOB ORE CHR LE O IS T FER THO P T IC R AG MAS H O U P.44 ● L O U B IA N AMO - W IM SE ● ● R IC O U T IN MER H ARD - R IN M G IL L E

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NATIONALTHEATER MÜNCHEN

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RESIDENZ MÜNCHEN

The Munich Lego store allows fans of all ages to enjoy the creative and engaging world of Lego to full effect. The store has special building tables where visitors, both young and old, can work on their own constructions. There is also a Pick a Brick Wall, where you can choose the bricks and elements you want from a huge range of different shapes and colours. Dedicated fans will also want to sign up to the Lego VIP Programme for exclusive news, offers and invitations from the brand. Lego, Pasing Arcaden, Pasinger Bahnhofsplatz 5, 81241 Munich, +49 (0)89 8200 6265, lego.com

Featured In This Issue

PHOTO: ARGUM

LEGO

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Theatinerstrasse BR IE NYMP N N E HENB R ST U RG ● R. L E IC LUM A ● AS ● P.11 0 MCM C GUT INQUE ● OP T SCH - ● IK ●

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● SWAROVSKI ● TAG HEUER ● DIE KLEINE THEATINER PARFÜMERIE ● DOUGLAS ● EYECATCHER ● FOGAL STRUMPFLADEN ● ESPRIT ● ROECKL

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● LACOSTE W .& R HL E . DIEH L● XC L USI V●

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Schumann’s TagesBar

ECKERLE HERRENMODEN ● PUMA ● WALTRAUD BETHGE PAPIERE ● ROSENTHAL ● ER STR A SSE A

Schumann’s

● BOSE ● HALLHUBER ● FURLA ● THOMAS SABO ● E LEINFELDER ● BERNHARD GRASSL ● THOMAS ● STEFANEL ● FREUDENHAUS OPTIK ● TRETTER CLASSIC ● MARRYING ● MICHAEL KORS ● NESPRESSO ● P RATH ● PAPILLON

NATIONALTHEATER MÜNCHEN

THE

SELECTED STORES IN FÜNF HÖFE: 7 For All Mankind Alessi Boggi Butlers Dolce & Gabbana Diehl Exclusiv Glenfield Hugendubel Ludwig Beck Marc O’Polo Max Mara Nile Clothing Reza René Lezard S Baumeister Schlüter Schreibmayr St Emile Tessilform

ACNE STUDIOS ●

HOR AE S M A KT K IR C H S O P ● E- U B P ST ERGER U D IO ●

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TOP 3... LOCAL DESIGNERS Georg et Arend Founded by twin brothers Georg and Arend, this womenswear label is known for its exquisite quality and classic designs. Georg et Arend, Falckenbergstrasse 7, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 221990, georgetarend.com

Maison Common Munich-based label Maison Common specialises in distinctive and stylish womenswear. Expect feminine, colourful touches on clothing that still packs a fashion punch. Yousefy, Promenadeplatz 11, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2388 5888, maisoncommon.com

Barbara Lohmann Cashmere is a winter essential, and Barbara Lohmann’s knits are some of the best available. Stock up on ultra-chic separates as well as great accessories. Barbara Lohmann, Schrammerstrasse 3, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2420 3794, barbaralohmann.de

Global Blue Retailer

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WERKSTATT MÜNCHEN Inspired by the idea of fragments, and decorated using bits of antique metal stamps, Werkstatt München’s autumn/winter 2016/17 collection is as thoughtful and covetable as its previous ones. Look out for designer Klaus Lohmeyer’s beautiful long silver chains, embellished with double-link fragments, which are so effortlessly cool you’ll want to wear them every day. Werkstatt München, Fraunhoferstrasse 31, 80469 Munich, +49 (0)89 2020 8450, werkstatt-muenchen.com

NATIONALTHEATER MÜNCHEN MA X

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Featured In This Issue

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OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm Sunday & public holidays: closed

DAY TRIP INGOLSTADT VILLAGE Ingolstadt Village, located less than an hour from both Munich and Nuremberg, plays host to more than 110 luxury brand boutiques. Both German and international brands are represented, with savings of up to 60% available throughout the Village. Ingolstadt Village’s design takes inspiration

from its surroundings; Bavaria’s evocative 19th-century textile mills are reflected in its warm colour schemes and art nouveau motifs. Ingolstadt Village, Otto-Hahn-Strasse 1, 85055 Ingolstadt, +49 (0)841 886 3100, ingolstadtvillage.com, chicoutletshopping.com

HOW TO GET THERE... MUNICH INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

A9 A9

MUNICH

Ingolstadt Village

INGOLSTADT MAIN STATION

By car From Munich take the A9 to junction Ingolstadt-Ost (exit 61) and from the exit follow the signs to Ingolstadt Village. By Shopping Express® The Shopping Express® luxury coach service runs from central Munich to Ingolstadt Village daily. For further information and to book, visit chicoutletshopping.com.

Outlet Village

Train Station

By train Ingolstadt is the main hub for trains running to Munich, Nuremberg, Augsburg, Ulm and Regensburg. There are regular connecting public coach services to Ingolstadt Village from Ingolstadt-Nord and Ingolstadt central. By bus From Munich airport, take the Ingolstadt Airport Express to Ingolstadt Village. From Ingolstadt central station, take bus 10 to Brückenkopf, then change to line 20.

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MY PERFECT DAY

GINGER CLARK, SHOP’S NEWS EDITOR, DESCRIBES HER PERFECT DAY AT INGOLSTADT VILLAGE 10am Start the day at Liebeskind Berlin. The company is known for its innovative designs and use of high-quality materials. 12pm Take a break at the cosy, colonial-style Stiftl restaurant, which serves typically Bavarian fare such as pork medallions in pepper sauce with vegetables and potato gratin. 2pm Christ’s 150 years of experience is evident in its exquisite fine-jewellery collection, offered alongside a range of timepieces by brands such as Raymond Weil and Jacques Lemans.

4pm Prepare for summer by picking up some stylish beachwear from La Perla. The Italian label’s quality, design and functionality are among the best. 6pm Rosenthal is one of the world’s leading producers of contemporary porcelain, bone china, glass and tableware, all made to impeccably high standards. 7pm End your day with a visit to culinary specialist Le Creuset, which offers colourful cookware.

DON’T MISS… Five-Star Services The village offers a range of VIP services including: • Free Wi-Fi • Free parking • A personal shopper (on request) • Children’s play area • Electric car charging station Shopping Packages Various packages are available at the Village and can be booked via the Village’s website. Services include: • Return tickets from central Frankfurt to the village on the Shopping Express® luxury coach • A €25 Ingolstadt Village Shopping Card to be spent at a boutique of your choice at the Village • An exclusive gift • Lunch with small soft drink at Stiftl restaurant at the Village

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OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm Saturday: 9am-8pm (Hugo Boss 8am-8pm)

DAY TRIP OUTLETCITY METZINGEN With more than 70 premium brands on-site, Outletcity Metzingen attracts 3.5 million visitors each year, making it one of the most successful retail outlets in Europe. Visitors can enjoy discounts on international designer labels.

Outletcity Metzingen, Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen, +49 (0)7123 925326, outletcity.com

PERFECT DAY

Outletcity Metzingen B28

METZINGEN WÜRTT L230 A8

HOW TO GET THERE... By car Enter Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen on your satellite navigation system. Drive north-west out of Munich on the A8 towards Augsburg and Stuttgart. Leave the A8 at the

Outlet Village

Train Station

Merklingen exit, following signs for Münsingen. Turn right on the L230, follow the road for 6km and turn left onto the B28 towards Reutlingen. Follow this street for 30km. Outletcity Metzingen is clearly signposted when you arrive in the town.

12pm Take a break at Keim Bakery to enjoy everything from coffee and cake to a freshly made sandwich. 2pm The ready-to-wear collection on offer at Hugo Boss strikes the perfect balance between fashion and functionality. 4pm Diane von Furstenberg produces classic, feminine pieces which exude elegance – the designer’s printed wrap dress is an iconic wardrobe piece.

PHOTO: JOHANNES VOGT

STUTTGART

STUTTGART CENTRAL STATION

10am Start your day perusing the sportswear on offer at Peak Performance; the label is known for combining functionality and style.

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1. Shop

2. Claim

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

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Munich Airport: Terminal 1, Departures, Level 4 Terminal 2, Departures, Level 4 Terminal 2, Transit, Level 5 Downtown Munich: Karstadt, Bahnhofplatz 7 Oberpollinger, Neuhauser Strasse 44 Galeria Kaufof, Kaufngerstrasse 1-5

105

101 /

105

PHOTO: ARNOLD JAEGER WERNER CC BY 2.0

TRANSLATIONS

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 52: City Of Culture

Культурная столица Атмосфера креативности, пронизывающая Мюнхен, делает его одним из самых популярных направлений в мире. Бет Дрюс рассказывает о жителях города и его достопримечательностях От любого путешествия мы ждем максимум новых впечатлений. Выбирая новое место отдыха мы опираемся на целый ряд различных критериев, среди которых не последнее место занимают история и местная кухня, именно поэтому Мюнхен сегодня столь популярен. Столица Баварии является третьим по величине городом Германии, популярность которого стала расти в начале 1970-х, после прошедших здесь в 1972 году Олимпийских игр. Спустя 45 лет Мюнхен кардинально изменился, предлагая гостям города ряд совершенно новых туристических возможностей. «Баварская столица предлагает лучшее из двух миров: старину и современность, globalblue.com

компактность и космополитичность, непринужденность и энергичность», – говорит Нильс Егер, креативный директор баскетбольного бренда K1X. Егер – коренной мюнхенец, владеющий сетью ресторанов, ночным клубом и недавно открытым отелем Flushing Meadows. Открытие последнего было вдохновлено временем, проведенным Егером в Нью-Йорке. В проекте разработки отеля принимали участие выдающиеся деятели культуры, дизайна и спорта – такая коллаборация, по словам Егера, отражает суть современного Мюнхена. «Конечно, Мюнхен может предложить массу возможностей для активного отдыха, ввиду своей близости к Альпам и многочисленным озерам, – поясняет он. – Но в то же время здесь кипит культурная жизнь, а ночным клубам, художественным галереям и ресторанам нет числа». Выставочный зал Дом искусства (Haus der Kunst) посвящен изучению современного искусства, а в трех галереях Pinakothek в районе Kunstareal (район искусства) представлены работы известнейших художников Запада. Однако наибольшей популярностью сегодня пользуется

городская галерея в доме Ленбаха (Lenbachhaus) на Luisenstrasse. Трехэтажное золотистое здание музея, спроектированное Норманом Фостером, вмещает значительную коллекцию импрессионистов, включая работы творческого объединения Синий всадник, основанного в Мюнхене в начале 20 века. В эту группу среди прочих входили такие художники, как Василий Кандинский, Франц Марк и Пауль Клее. Концептуальные магазины стали одним из самых быстрорастущих феноменов Мюнхена. Они предлагают покупателям эклектичную смесь дизайнерской одежды и предметов интерьера. Bean Store на Teresienstrasse – один из таких примеров. Основатель магазина Лаура Боненбергер, выпускница факультета истории искусства и фешн-журналистики, ставила своей задачей сделать розничную торговлю Мюнхена более индивидуальной. «Мы хотели изменить привычный стиль работы с клиентами», – говорит она, показывая светлое, красочное пространство, наполненное товарами по самым разным ценам. В магазине Bean можно найти такие бренды, как Acne, APC, Carven, Maison Kitsuné и YMC. «У нас также представлено немало эксклюзивных брендов, включая Maria Black, Maska, Kaibosh, Kow Tow и OZN, но чем мы действительно гордимся, так это тем, что мы стали своеобразным хабом, где могут общаться люди самых разных творческих профессий». В Cantine Cantona на шумной улице Schellingstrasse вы сможете насладиться свежеприготовленными блюдами из местных сезонных ингредиентов. éто заведение относится к ресторанам нового типа, которые отличаются своей непринужденной атмосферой и легкими блюдами, не похожими на традиционную, тяжелую баварскую кухню, которая в течение продолжительного времени преобладала в Мюнхене. «Близость к Италии сказалась на гастрономических предпочтениях мюнхенцев: здесь очень много великолепных итальянских ресторанов, – говорит Егер. – А сейчас также появилось немало инновационных

заведений восточной кухни, в основном японской и вьетнамской». Например, Emiko – современный ресторан японской кухни в отеле Louis на площади Viktualienmarkt, новаторские блюда которого рассчитаны сразу на несколько персон. Ночная жизнь в городе также на высоте, и связано это, по мнению Егера, с тем, что в начале 1990-х «музыкальные продюсеры сделали Мюнхен центром развития клубной музыки». Среди его любимых мест – Schumann’s Bar на Odeonsplatz, выделяющийся своим минималистским интерьером, который сочетает полированную сталь и дерево. Бар оживает после полуночи, когда его владелец (а также модель по совместительству) Чарльз Шуман встает за барную стойку, чтобы предложить посетителям восхитительные коктейли на любой вкус. С таким количеством достопримечательностей, как в Мюнхене, можно легко позабыть об одной из самых знаменитых и старинных. Обязательно прогуляйтесь по Английскому саду, площадь которого составляет 365 гектар. Здесь вы сможете понаблюдать за серфингистами, рассекающими по искусственным волнам, побродить среди деревьев или просто насладиться тишиной на берегу озера Kleinhesseloher. Возможно, это будет как раз кстати, после насыщенной экскурсии по этому чудесному городу. 60: Over The Top

Курс на чрезмерность Мария Кирхен Хилл рассказывает о смелой верхней одежде, которая в этом сезоне получила и объемные силуэты, и экстравагантную отделку Когда приходит пора защищаться от холода, хочется искать помощи у нестареющей классики, будь то темно-синий бушлат или макинтош верблюжьего оттенка. Однако быть в тренде в этом сезоне означает отложить проверенные базовые вещи и обратиться к более неоднозначным образам. Все дизайнеры мира, от Нью-Йорка до

Милана, стремятся к экстравагантности и наглядно демонстрируют, что верхняя одежда столь же способна на модные заявления, как и то, что под ней.

В этом сезоне Демна Гвасалия выпустил первую коллекцию в должности креативного директора Balenciaga. Он сумел объединить актуальную, вдохновленную стритстайлом эстетику, которой он прославился в Vetements, и харизму модного дома с историей. Когда дело дошло до верхней одежды, Гвасалия продемонстрировал один из самых заметных трендов сезона – укрупненные силуэты. Объемные куртки в спортивном стиле были решены в ярких оттенках и непринужденно приспущены с плеч. В коллекции Vetements также преобладала спортивная и расслабленная эстетика, при этом силуэты оказались еще более чрезмерными, и эти огромные куртки ниспадали намного ниже талии.

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Стеганые куртки всех мыслимых форм и размеров произвели неожиданный фурор в этом сезоне. Balenciaga представляет огромные пуховики, некоторые из них – спущенные с плеч, а другие – со складками на шее и с капюшонами. Марка Acne Studios также приспустила ворот куртки, а для верхней одежды Marques Almeida, наоборот, в этом сезоне характерны огромные плечи. Принт и цвет также стали поводом для модного высказывания. Стеганые вещи Carven смотрелись очаровательно благодаря мягким пастельным тонам, а пальто Vivienne Westwood эффектны в золотом цвете. Куртка из новой коллекции Emilio Pucci украшена горным пейзажем, выполненным в живой цветовой гамме, – идеальная вещь для стильного апрески. Стеганая куртка Alexander McQueen украшена очаровательными цветочными узорами мягких оттенков, а ее края отделаны мехом: из-за сочетания необычной формы и изысканных украшений получился смелый вариант для вечернего выхода. Если стеганая куртка не вписывается в ваши представления о вечернем гардеробе, вас спасет еще одна характерная вещь этого сезона – пелерина. Erdem остался верен современному романтизму и представил темную накидку с цветочными принтами. И Marc Jacobs, и Alexander McQueen предложили верхнюю одежду для вечерних удлиненных нарядов. Marc Jacobs украсил шерстяные пелерины экстравагантными черными лентами и блестками. Alexander McQueen отдал предпочтение полупрозрачным тонким накидкам и представил их в ансамбле с вечерними платьями: многослойная отделка блестящими камнями навевала ассоциации со звездным небом. Совсем другими оказались пелерины для свободного времени в будни. Dior добавил рельефности простым силуэтам пончо, а в коллекции Chanel были представлены вязаные вещи ярких цветов, которые сделали классический костюм-двойку этого бренда намного более созвучным текущим трендам. Необычная верхняя одежда – не единственный заметный тренд на подиумах в этом сезоне. Дизайнеры стремились обновить классические модели с помощью яркой цветовой гаммы, украшений

и необычных материалов. Миучча Прада выбрала для новой коллекции Miu Miu эклектичный образ: привлекающее внимание пальто с сильными узорами, леденцовый розовый и насыщенный алый оттенки, расшитые камнями плечи и даже нашитые декоративные заплатки. В коллекции для Prada эти эксперименты продолжились, и пальто и куртки из золотого жаккарда оказались украшены артистическими принтами и тяжелыми ремнями. Такое приподнятое настроение проявилось и в моделях Dolce & Gabbana: на пальто-коконы этого бренда нанесены вышивки с котятами и аппликации с радугой. Бренд MSGM также доказывает притягательную силу ярких красок: в его коллекции появилось коралловое пальто с ярко-красным поясом и ярко-желтое меховое манто. Желтая шуба Gucci во время показа была представлена вместе с полным комплектом одежды того же оттенка, от головного убора до обуви, – весьма смелый образ. В этом сезоне бренды активно работали и с кожей, придавая ей самые разные оттенки. Céline представил макинтоши из кожи насыщенно-синего и небесно-голубого цвета. Яркие кожаные куртки Courrèges были укорочены до талии, Max Mara решил свою куртку в желтом цвете, а Valentino показал пальто кровавого красного оттенка, который ассоциируется с готикой. Еще одним заметным явлением на подиумах стало активное использование лакированной кожи. Например, Burberry и Proenza Schouler сочли нужным обновить свои классические модели этим блестящим материалом. Невозможно говорить о коже и не упомянуть байкерские куртки – безусловный хит многих коллекций. Marc Jacobs и Balenciaga остались верны традиционному черному цвету, но добавили избыточные пропорции и свободные силуэты классической модели. Courrèges и Chloé решили обновить ее через вкрапление яркого цвета. Фирменные принты в стиле бохо у Etro приняли форму вышивки по всей поверхности куртки, при этом рукава и отвороты сохранились в чистом черном. У Fausto Puglisi жакет кремового цвета был отделан лентами на рукавах и заклепками

самых разных форм и цветов на вороте. Верхняя одежда этого сезона от ключевых модных дизайнеров подразумевает яркие вещи на любой вкус и случай. И это только подтверждает, что низкие температуры – вовсе не преграда для истинного стиля. 68: Dazzling Success

Ослепительный успех Уже более века Bucherer остается одним из ведущих экспертов по бриллиантам в мире. Ханна Льюис рассказывает о самых впечатляющих коллекциях ювелирного дома èомпания Bucherer была основана в 1888 году как небольшое семейное предприятие. éа прошедший век она превратилась в один из ведущих часовых и ювелирных домов в мире, которым управляет представитель

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уже третьего поколения династии Йорг Бушерер. За столько лет бренд поработал со множеством стилей и технологий. Однако есть и такая страсть, которая пронизывает всю его историю, – бриллианты. Десятилетиями Bucherer взращивал свои компетенции в этой сфере, начиная с отбора лучших камней и до привлечения самых квалифицированных мастеров, которые умеют превращать алмазы в прекрасные украшения. Сейчас Bucherer – один из главных мировых экспертов по украшениям с бриллиантами. «Несомненно, бриллиант – это самая яркая звезда на небосклоне драгоценных камней... Его магическое сияние открывает путь к выражению эмоции в ее чистейшем виде», – утверждает главный закупщик алмазов Bucherer Тобиас Ланц. Он пришел в компанию 20 лет назад на должность ювелира и постепенно вырос до своей специализации: «Меня всегда завораживали бриллианты и другие драгоценные камни», – подчеркивает он. Бриллиантами занимается огромная команда, в которую входят закупщики, геммологи, ювелиры и огранщики, и каждый участник этого сложного процесса разделяет неподдельный интерес к камням и преданность профессиональному мастерству. Это в полной мере проявилось в коллекции

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Diamond Collection, которую Bucherer называет «выражением чистой страсти». Diamond Collection объединяет большую серию изысканных вещей: в ней есть и повседневные украшения (например, грациозный браслет или серьги-пуссеты), и восхитительные гарнитуры для особых случаев. Команда Bucherer аккумулирует всю свою любовь к драгоценным камням и вкладывает ее в великолепные украшения для любого случая. Узнаваемый стиль бренда вдохновлен природными формами и воплощается в элегантных, женственных и совершенных произведениях. Для них характерна непреходящая классичность в подаче бриллиантов и обрамляющих их драгоценных металлов, и в то же время полная созвучность современности. В основе этого процесса лежит неподражаемое качество исходных алмазов. Bucherer – один из самых значительных в мире экспертов по подбору камней. С точки зрения Ланца, причины этого очевидны: «Ассортимент бриллиантовых украшений Bucherer один из самых широких в Европе. Благодаря огромному опыту, прочным и давним связям и развитому критическому мышлению компания способна находить и приобретать очень редкие камни и предлагать

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своим клиентам высококачественные бриллианты по разумной цене. Мы стремимся выявлять самые качественные камни. А это определяется по четырем параметрам: огранка, цвет, чистота и каратность». По его словам, приоритеты расставляются в зависимости от пожеланий клиента. И все же для Bucherer первостепенное значение всегда играет огранка, поскольку это «единственное свойство бриллианта, к которому причастен человек». По утверждению эксперта, спрос на камни «устойчиво растет», тем не менее, компания никогда не пойдет на компромисс в своем стремлении к совершенству. Высокая квалификация и прочные позиции на рынке открывают Bucherer доступ к редчайшим камням, включая алмазы необычных цветов. Если ценность белых камней определяет как раз отсутствие цвета, то в случае с цветными – важна насыщенность оттенка. По некоторым оценкам, на 10 000 карат белого алмаза приходится всего один карат цветного. Неудивительно, что эти камни самые желанные и дорогие в мире. Каждый год в мастерских Bucherer на берегах озера Люцерн рождается лимитированная коллекция украшений, в которых блистают столь редкие драгоценности. В этом году такими произведениями ювелирного искусства стали два ожерелья с желтыми бриллиантами грушевидной огранки. Они созданы по мотивам узоров санктгалленской вышивки, которая называется так в честь швейцарского города Санкт-Галлен, и изящно сочетают пышное богатство и кружевную хрупкость. Одно из ожерелий украшено кисточками: 10 желтых бриллиантов грушевидной гранки весят 21,7 карат, а работа над этим украшением заняла около 150 часов. Второе ожерелье мастера создавали около 200 часов, в нем 12 желтых бриллиантов грушевидной огранки весом 12,1 карат, а венчает композицию выдающийся светложелтый камень в 7,02 карата. Каждое из этих украшений оценивается в полмиллиона евро, они действительно единственные в своем роде и доступны по предварительному запросу и только тем, кто по-настоящему понимает их значительность. Эти камни настолько редки, что главной

сложностью творческого процесса стал поиск одинаково качественных камней совпадающих оттенков. И только бренд с репутацией Bucherer может позволить себе приобрести подобные раритеты. Истинное произведение ювелирного искусства, идеальный подарок к особому случаю или для особого человека, просто красивое украшение к повседневному гардеробу – чего бы вы ни пожелали, решение найдется в коллекции Bucherer Diamonds Collection. Как говорит Тобиас Ланц: «Мы признаем только высочайший уровень и не идем ни на какие компромиссы». 95: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

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美文翻译 52: City Of Culture 文化之都凭借酷酷的创意氛围，慕尼黑渐渐成为世界上不可错过的旅行目的地之一。Beth Druce与您一起探访当地的风土人情一次次的城中探险，令我们满怀期待。曾经，一小段历史、几样当地美食就能令我们颇觉快意。后来，我们越发青睐内涵丰富的目的地，不断寻觅更充分、更多样的旅行理由——而这，就是慕尼黑风靡当下的原因。作为德国第三大城市、巴伐利亚州的首府，慕尼黑自20世纪70年代初期便极富盛名。得益于1972 年奥运会，慕尼黑不仅获得了结构性投资，更在国际舞台频频露面。历经45载飞速发展，今日的慕尼黑将为您提供比以往任何时候都更多元、更引人入胜的体验。 “作为巴伐利亚首府，慕尼黑兼具两方面的优势：既显历史内涵又有现代色彩，既是小城又是大都市，既轻松自在又活跃生动， ” Niels Jäger评论道。Jäger是慕尼黑本地人，篮球品牌K1X的创意总监，手下有数间餐厅和一家夜店。最近开张的 Flushing Meadows酒店亦是他的产业。这家酒店的设计灵感源于Jäger在纽约度过的时光，而其诞生的过程更与文化、设计、体育界的知名人士密切相连。在 Jäger看来，这种合作荟萃了当今慕尼黑的精华。 “说起大自然，这座城市里也有着丰富的选择。阿尔卑斯山与各大湖泊都近在咫尺， ”他解释道。 “但与此同时，慕尼黑也提供了五花八门的城市文化、夜生活、艺术和美食。”至于艺术，慕尼黑美术馆（Haus der Kunst）便是一家致力于探索当代艺术的公共博物馆。位于Kunstareal（“艺术区”）的三座 Pinakothek画廊，收藏了不少西方艺术史上最著名的画家之作。但在当下轰动一时的，却是路易斯大街（Luisenstrasse）上的伦巴赫美术馆（Lenbachhaus）。这座新扩建的三层金色建筑由 Norman Foster担纲设计。馆内收藏了众多表现主义作品，蓝骑士（“Blaue Reiter”）的佳作便陈列其间。这个艺术团体于20世纪初成立于慕尼黑，艺术家阵容包括 Wassily Kandinsky、Franz Marc 和 Paul Klee等。在慕尼黑，各种概念店迅速发展壮大。零售商将设计师的时尚大作与精挑细选的生活用品结合，兼收并蓄的丰富选择受到了当地人和游客的一致青睐。位于特雷西亚大街（Theresienstrasse）的Bean Store便是一例。创始人Laura Bohnenberger毕业于艺术史和时尚新闻学专业，热衷于将更加个性化 globalblue.com

的零售体验带入慕尼黑。 “我们想采取一种不同的方式与顾客打交道， ”她如此描述这家店面。在这缤纷明亮的空间里，Acne、A.P.C.、Carven、Maison Kitsuné 和YMC等品牌云集于此，各种价位的产品一应俱全。 “我们也有很多专属品牌，包括Maria Black、 Maska、 Kaibosh、 Kow Tow和 OZN 等等。但真正令我们自豪的是，众多创意人士能够汇聚一堂，通过我们的商店彼此联系。” 繁华的谢林大街(Schellingstrasse)上， Cantine Cantona 用当地时令食材为您烹制新鲜有趣的菜肴，让您尽享饕餮一日。如今，越来越多的餐馆倡导轻松、非正式的用餐方式，该店亦是如此。一直以来，分量十足的巴伐利亚风格食物以及更为传统的餐盘是慕尼黑的特色，而这种新的理念则是反其道而行之。 “由于靠近意大利，慕尼黑已经受到了影响……您可以在这里找到许多超棒的意大利餐馆， ”Jäger说道。 “现在，很多别具创意的亚洲概念似乎流行了起来，大多来自越南和日本。” 举个例子，慕尼黑谷物市场（Viktualienmarkt）的路易斯酒店（Louis hotel）里，便开了一家现代日本餐厅 Emiko，它家分享式的菜品设计可谓创意十足。这座城市的夜生活也越来越令人向往。在 Jäger 看来，这要追溯到20世纪90年代初期。当时“先锋的音乐制作人让慕尼黑成为迪斯科和各类音乐的温床。”位于音乐厅广场（Odeonsplatz）的 Schumann’sBar是他最爱去的地方之一。店内的钢木混合结构采用细条纹抛光，洋溢着极简抽象派气息。午夜过后，这里便活跃开来。店主（有时也兼任模特）Charles Schumann奉上精选饮品，满足各种口味的需要。面对如此丰富的文化图景，哪怕忽视了慕尼黑最著名、最悠久的一大景点，也是无可厚非的。漫步在365公顷的英式花园（Englischer Garten），您可以观赏冲浪者在人工溪流上驰骋，可以在林间忘我徜徉，也可以就坐在克莱恩汉兹洛赫（Kleinhesseloher）湖边，享受静谧一刻。在欣赏慕尼黑的各色瑰宝之后，或许这就是您最需要的。

60: Over The Top 改头换面穿上本季新品外套，释放真我风采，宽松廓形或奢华饰物，任您选择。 Maria Kirchen Hill报道到了需要驱寒保暖的时节，一件经典单品，比如一件海军呢大衣或者驼色风雨衣，就能让您轻松出行。但是，要想在这个季节引领时尚，就得将稳妥的款式搁置一旁，换上一副更为出众的造型。从纽约到米兰，设计师们纷纷拥抱奢华风格，让外套与其它装束一样，精彩而时尚。

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同色系产品相配，从头到脚的纯色外表，只为勇敢者打造。T台上大量展现的皮革服饰，也换上了活泼灵动的色彩。不论是浓丽的藏青色，还是柔软的天蓝色，都令Céline的风雨衣焕然一新。Courrèges的彩色皮夹克短至腰部，Max Mara展示了阳光般的明亮黄色，而华伦天奴（Valentino）的殷红色外套则传递着哥特风情。本季的另一大热点，便是漆皮面料。博柏利（Burberry）和Proenza Schouler等品牌纷纷采用这种高光泽材料，令经久不衰的款式焕然新生。不过说到皮革服饰，机车夹克定然是本季的领跑者，系列作品不可胜数。Marc Jacobs和巴黎世家虽坚持一贯的黑色造型，却用夸张的比例和轮廓增添了丝丝新意。 Courrèges 和寇依（Chloé）则用泼溅色彩刷新了风格。Etro标志性的波西米亚印花以刺绣的形式遍布全身，衣袖和翻领依然采用黑色皮革面料。Fausto Puglisi 的奶油色皮衣上，袖间的漩涡装饰别致动人，领口则零星装饰着形状、色彩各异的铆钉。本季的新品外套荟萃了世界顶级设计师的心血之作，满足各种品位需要，适用于各类场合穿着。它们也再一次地证明：温度虽会下降，风度却分毫不减。

本季，Demna Gvasalia推出了其担任巴黎世家（Balenciaga）创意总监以来的首个系列作品，在设计中融入了前卫大胆的街头风格；早在效力于时尚品牌Vetements之际，他就将这种审美理念植入品牌DNA，并由此而声名鹊起。Gvasalia通过他设计的外套作品，展示了本季最强劲的一大趋势：大码廓形。宽松的运动夹克浓墨重彩，漫不经心地搭在肩上，风范十足。他在Vetements时的作品，大多也是这种随性而慵懒的风格，只不过现在轮廓更为夸张，硕大的夹克衫一直垂到腰部以下。版型各异、尺码多样的棉服设计，出人意料地成为当季亮点。巴黎世家秀场上，特大号蓬松羽绒夹克大放异彩，有些可以落肩穿着，有些则连着兜帽层叠于颈间。Acne Studios 亦采用落肩造型，而 Marques Almeida夹克衫则带有夸张的垫肩。印花与配色同样重要。Carven推出的淡粉色垫肩造型十分甜美，而 Vivienne Westwood则主打金色，光彩照人。 Emilio Pucci推出了一件与众不同的夹克，鲜明底色上的山景图案十分引人注目，定能让您在滑雪之后尽显时尚风情。Alexander McQueen推出了一款颇似棉被的外套，柔美的花饰，绒毛的镶边。挺阔外形与精致配饰相得益彰，为您提供撩人的晚装选择。倘若棉衣不合您的晚装审美，不妨另择一款当季优品——披肩。Erdem的暗花设计兼具浪漫与时尚；Marc Jacobs和Alexander McQueen则双双推出了超长曳地款。Marc Jacobs采用深灰色羊毛面料，以璀璨亮片描摹漩涡图案，深邃动人；Alexander McQueen则推出精致的纯色披肩，搭配晚礼服尽显雍容。两件美衣皆有珠宝点缀其上，令人想起夜空的璀璨繁星。这些披肩不限于晚间休闲时才能穿着。迪奥（Dior）推出的小披肩轮廓简约，质感极为细腻；香奈儿（Chanel）的针织披肩则色彩鲜明，为品牌标志性的经典两件套平添一丝现代气息。在秀场脱颖而出的不只有造型大胆的外套；更有设计师用醒目的配色、装饰，抑或非同寻常的材料，将经典款升级换代。Miu Miu设计师Miuccia Prada便打造出一款兼收并蓄的造型，其外套有着浓墨重彩的图案，配上糖果粉及热辣红，还有在肩部饰以珠宝，甚至缝上了补丁，格外引人注目。普拉达（Prada）亦延续了这条实验性路线，为外套和夹克衫配上金色提花、极具艺术感的印染及重型皮带。杜嘉班纳（Dolce＆Gabbana）的新品也流露出相似的趣味，茧形外套上的小猫刺绣栩栩如生，弓形贴花遍布衣袂。 MSGM 的珊瑚外套不仅夺人眼球，更与邮筒色红皮带和金丝雀黄色披肩完美搭配，证明了明艳色彩的力量。古驰（Gucci）的亮黄色皮草外套则与

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68: Dazzling Success 成功的光芒宝嘉尔（Bucherer）在珠宝行业拥有超过一个世纪的丰富经验，是世界顶尖的钻石品牌之一。Hannah Lewis带您探索该品牌最闪耀的珠宝系列宝嘉尔（Bucherer）创建于1888年，从曾经的小型家族企业成长为世界顶级腕表和珠宝商之一。该品牌如今由家族第三代 Jörg G Bucherer掌舵，多年来创造了大量风格迥异的作品，取得了长足的发展。对钻石的热爱贯穿了品牌的整个发展历史。世代相传，宝嘉尔在专业领域不断积累和沉淀，孜孜不倦地挑选宝石中的极品，聘请技艺精湛的工匠将这些珍宝缔造成美丽动人的珠宝首饰。今天，该品牌已经成为世界上首屈一指的钻石珠宝专家。 “钻石是无可争议的宝石之王……魔法般的光芒表现出最纯粹的情感， ”首席钻石采购员Tobias Lanz如是说道。20年前，他以金匠的身份开始为宝嘉尔效力，逐渐对钻石有了深入的研究。 “钻石和宝石总是令我着迷， ”他说道。钻石团队的人员构成十分多样化——既包括采购员和宝石学家，也包括金匠和打磨工匠——但我们每个人对钻石都怀有巨大的热情，每个人都将精益求精作为己任。这一切都体现在宝嘉尔的钻石系列中，这个系列被喻为“纯粹的热情”。钻石系列荟萃了众多精美绝伦的作品，既有简单的日常款式——一枚精致的手镯或一对耳钉——也不乏张扬闪耀、适合特殊场合佩戴的惊艳之作。宝嘉尔设计团队把对钻石的满腔热情幻化为适用于任何场所、满足各种顾客需求的作品。优雅、柔美和精致是品牌标志性的风格，设计师经常从大自然当中寻找灵感，用珍贵金属衬托璀璨的钻石，彰显钻石的永恒之美，同时融入现代的审美风格。钻石的无瑕品质是整个工艺过程的核心。幸运的是，宝嘉尔堪称甄选钻石的顶级专家，此外更有 Lanz坐镇，监督整个采购流程。 “宝嘉尔坐拥全欧洲最丰富的钻石珠宝资源， ”他介绍说。 “凭借着过硬的技术、长久的合作关系和敏锐的鉴赏力，我们能采购到弥足珍贵的宝石，并以合适的价格将高品质钻石出售给顾客。” “我们寻求高品质的钻石， ”他继续介绍道。 “[这些钻石是]通过以下四大标准界定的：切割、色泽、净度和克拉数。”哪个标准最重要，每位顾客仁者见仁；但对于宝嘉尔来说，切割永远是排第一位的，因为切割是“唯一取决于人工的因素”。尽管钻石的需求在“持续增加” ，Lanz表示，公司永远不会放弃对完美的追求。宝嘉尔的精湛工艺和在珠宝界的重要地位意味着，品牌能够入手许多旷世之宝，其中包括迷人的彩 globalblue.com

色钻石。白钻石越没有杂色价值越高，而对于彩色钻石——即颜色不同寻常的钻石来说，色泽的饱和度至关重要。根据估算，每开采1万克拉白钻石，只能开采出1克拉彩色钻石，因而彩色钻石才是全世界最令人垂涎、价格最昂贵的宝石。每年，宝嘉尔都会推出一个由这些珍贵彩色宝石打造的限量版珠宝系列。今年最独特的是两款高级珠宝项链，其上镶有梨形切割的彩黄钻石，由品牌设于琉森湖边的工作室创作。作品的灵感来源于瑞士圣加仑（St Gallen）的传统圣加仑刺绣，钻石饱和的色彩与项链本身的脆弱之美相得益彰。第一款项链带有流苏；10枚梨形切割彩黄色钻石重21.7克拉，整个创作历时150个小时完成。第二款项链由宝嘉尔手艺高超的工匠花费200 个小时完成，镶嵌以12枚梨形切割彩黄色钻石，重 12.1克拉；一枚重达7.02克拉的梨形切割彩黄钻石为整个作品画龙点睛。这对单件价值高达50万欧元的旷世之作仅接受贵宾的垂询和预订。这些珍宝世所罕见，而其创作过程中最大的挑战莫过于采集颜色匹配的高品质钻石。只有宝嘉尔这样的重量级品牌才有可能做到这一点。无论您是想挑选一款精美绝伦的首饰，还是想物色一件合适的珠宝在特殊场合佩戴，或者您想将它馈赠心上人，又或者想为日常装扮增添一份点缀，宝嘉尔钻石系列一定不会让您失望。就像 Lanz说的那样， “我们坚持最高标准，绝不妥协。”

‫‪105‬‬

‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 95‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من‬ ‫‪ 300,000‬متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة‬ ‫الخاص بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة‬ ‫الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫أحد مكاتب الستداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ €25‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14.5%‬من ثن‬

‫مشتياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه‬ ‫مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬ف بعض‬ ‫الطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة‬ ‫ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫‪95: When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free‬‬ ‫‪畅购全球，尊享退税‬‬

‫‪当您在全球顶级购物区中的30多万家商店消费时，‬‬ ‫‪环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free‬‬ ‫。‪Shopping）为您节约购物开销‬‬ ‫‪每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联(Global‬‬ ‫‪Blue)获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻‬‬ ‫‪找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联(Global‬‬ ‫‪Blue) 服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过程：‬‬

‫‪1. 消费购物‬‬ ‫‪无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格‬‬ ‫。‪(Global Blue Tax Free Form)，并记得保存小票‬‬ ‫‪2. 申请退税‬‬ ‫‪当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台‬‬ ‫‪请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联‬‬ ‫。‪的退税点领取您的退税款‬‬ ‫‪联系方式：‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫‪最低消费€25即可节省高达购买价格14.5%的税。请‬‬ ‫‪注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管‬‬ ‫‪理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取‬‬ ‫。‪现金退税手续费‬‬

‫‪106‬‬

‫عرض الزياء‪ ،‬فجرى تلوينه‪ .‬ظهرت العاطف الواقية من الطر‬ ‫بأسلوب مختلف لدى ‪ Céline‬بفضل الجلد الكحل الغني‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫والزرق السموي الناعم‪ .‬ف حي ل تتع ّد الستات الجلديّة الل ّو–ة‬ ‫من ‪ Courrèges‬الخص واعتمدت ‪ Max Mara‬اللّون الصفر‬ ‫بحس‬ ‫الساطع وتيّزت معاطف ‪ Valentino‬الحمراء كالشمندر ّ‬ ‫غوطي‪.‬‬ ‫اللمع موضة ضاربة أخرى‪ ،‬بحيث حدّثت‬ ‫وشكّل الجلد ّ‬ ‫علمات كبى مثل ‪ Burberry‬و‪ Proenza Schouler‬بعض‬ ‫الوديلت العريقة بهذه الادّة الشديدة اللّمعان‪ .‬ومن بي كافّة‬ ‫اللبس الجلديّة‪ ،‬كا–ت الستة الجلديّة ف الصدراة هذا الوسم‬ ‫وشكّلت مجموعات متعدّدة‪ .‬التزمت علمتا ‪Marc Jacobs‬‬ ‫و‪ Balenciaga‬بالسود العادي‪ ،‬لك ّنهم أضافتا عنص الحداثة‬ ‫تناسب وتصاميم مبالغ فيها‪ .‬واعتمدت ‪Courrèges‬‬ ‫من خلل‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫‪ Chloé‬رذاذا ً من اللوان لحياء السلوب‪ .‬أ ّما لدى ‪ ،Etro‬فجاءت‬ ‫النقوش البوهيميّة التي تشتهر بها العلمة بشكل تطريز ع“‬ ‫الصدر والظهر‪ ،‬بينم بقيت الكمم وطيّات الصدر بالجلد السود‪.‬‬ ‫وت ّم تحسي الجلد البيج لدى ‪ Fausto Puglisi‬بد ّو ٍ‬ ‫امات زخرفيّة‬ ‫ع“ الكمم ومسامي بألوانٍ وأشكا ٍل مختلفة ع“ طيّات الصدر‪.‬‬ ‫تشمل اللبس الخارجيّة هذا الوسم‪ ،‬من ابتكار أبرز‬ ‫الص ّممي العاليّي‪ ،‬قطعاً مميّزة تناسب كافّة الذواق والناسبات‬ ‫تدن درجات الحرارة ل يقف عائقاً ف وجه الوضة‬ ‫وتبهن أ ّن ّ‬ ‫والتألّق‪.‬‬ ‫‪Dazzling Success :68‬‬

‫نجاح باهر‬ ‫ٌ‬

‫علمة ‪ Bucherer‬أحد أبرز خباء اللاس ف العال‪ ،‬بفضل خب ٍة‬ ‫تزيد عن قرنٍ ف هذا الجال‪ .‬تستكشف ‪Hannah Lewis‬‬ ‫مجموعات العلمة الذهلة‬ ‫تأسست ‪ Bucherer‬سنة ‪ 1888‬وتط ّورت من شكة عائليّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التخصصة بالساعات والجوهرات‬ ‫صغية إل أحد أبرز السمء‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الفاخرة ف العال‪ .‬توارثت الشكة ثلثة أجيال ويديرها اليوم ‪JÖrg‬‬ ‫‪ G Bucherer‬وقد اعتمدت عب السني عدّة أساليب وأناط‬ ‫بقي راسخاً طوال هذه الفتة‪ ،‬أل وهو‬ ‫متط ّورة‪ .‬لك ّن شيئاً واحدا ً َ‬ ‫اللاس‪ .‬ع ّززت ‪ Bucherer‬خبتها ف السوق عب الجيال‪ ،‬من‬ ‫اختيار أروع الحجار إل تعيي أمهر الحرفيّي لتحويل هذه الحجار‬ ‫الكرية إل مجوهرات جميلة‪ .‬واليوم تُعتب العلمة من ألع خباء‬ ‫الرصعة بالاس ف العال‪.‬‬ ‫الجوهرات ّ‬ ‫يقول ‪ ،Tobias Lanz‬السؤول الرئيس عن شاء اللاس‬ ‫لدى ‪ Bucherer‬حيث بدأ العمل منذ ‪ 20‬سنة كصائغ ذهب‬ ‫تخصصاً مع الوقت‪“ :‬اللاس هو سيّد الحجار الكرية من‬ ‫وزاد ّ‬ ‫يعب بريقه الساحر عن أصدق الشاعر‪ .‬لطالا‬ ‫دون منازع‪ّ ...‬‬ ‫الختص باللاس كبي‬ ‫لت باللاس والحجار الكرية‪ ”.‬الفريق‬ ‫ُذ ِه ُ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ويشمل الشتين وخباء الحجار والصائغي وعامل التلميع‪ ،‬لكن‬ ‫كل واحد منهم بنفس الحمس للمس واللتزام بالتميّز‪.‬‬ ‫يتمتّع ّ‬ ‫ينعكس ذلك ف مجموعة ‪ Diamond Collection‬التي تصفها‬ ‫‪ Bucherer‬بـ “تعبيٍ عن ٍ‬ ‫شغف حقيقي”‪.‬‬ ‫تض ّم ‪ Diamond Collection‬تشكيلة واسعة من‬ ‫القطع الفريدة من نوعها‪ .‬من البتكارات اليوميّة البسيطة‪ ،‬كسوا ٍر‬

‫جميل أو قرطي صغيين‪ ،‬إل القطع الميّزة الساحرة الص ّممة‬ ‫للمناسبات‪ ،‬توظّف ‪ Bucherer‬شغفها بهذه الحجار وتتجمه إل‬ ‫لي مناسبة أو زبون‪ .‬غالباً ما تُستوحى التصاميم‬ ‫تصاميم ملئة ّ‬ ‫من الشكال الطبيعيّة ويتّسم أسلوبها بالناقة والنوثة والدقّة‪،‬‬ ‫محتم ًة كلسيكيّة الاس العريقة والحجار الكرية التي تك ّمله‪،‬‬ ‫مع الحافظة ع“ طابع الحداثة‪ .‬تجدر الشارة إل جودة الحجار‬ ‫التي ل تُضاهى‪ .‬لحسن الح ّظ أ ّن ‪ Bucherer‬هي من أبرز خباء‬ ‫انتقاء الاس ف العال‪ ،‬وذلك بإشاف ‪ Lanz‬الذي يبع ف هذا‬ ‫الجال‪ .‬يشح قائلً‪“ :‬تقدّم ‪ Bucherer‬أكب تشكيلت الجوهرات‬ ‫الرصعة بالاس ف أوروبا‪ .‬وبفضل خبتها الطويلة وعلقاتها‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫العريقة وأحكامها التقدّمة‪ ،‬بإمكان الشكة شاء أحجا ٍر نادرة‬ ‫وتوفي ماسات عالية الجودة بأسعا ٍر معقولة لزبائنها‪”.‬‬ ‫يضيف‪“ :‬نبحث عن ماسات فائقة الجودة‪ ،‬تُحدّدها خصائص‬ ‫أساسيّة أربعة‪ :‬القطع واللّون والوضوح والوزن‪ .‬تختلف أهميّة‬ ‫كل خاصيّة بحسب الزبون‪ ،‬لكن يبقى القطع أولويّة بالنسبة إل‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ Bucherer‬إذ إنّه ال ُعنص الوحيد من ُصنع النسان”‪ .‬وع“ ح ّد‬ ‫قول ‪ ،Lanz‬بالرغم من زيادة الطلب التواصلة ع“ اللاس‪ ،‬لن‬ ‫تساوم الشكة أبدا ً ع“ تحقيق التميّز‪.‬‬ ‫نظرا ً لخبة ‪ Bucherer‬ومكانتها الراسخة ف السوق‪ ،‬تحظى‬ ‫ببعض أندر الحجار با فيها الاسات الل ّونة الفاخرة‪ .‬ف حي يحدّد‬ ‫انعدام اللّونِ القيم َة ف اللاس البيض‪ ،‬تتمثّل القيمة ف اللاس‬ ‫الل ّون الفاخر – أي الذي يكون خارج –طاق اللوان الألوفة – ف‬ ‫درجة تشبّع اللّون‪ .‬بحسب بعض التقديرات‪ ،‬يت ّم التنقيب عن‬ ‫قي ٍاط واحد من الاس الل ّون الفاخر مقابل ‪ 10‬آلف قياط من‬ ‫الاس البيض‪ ،‬ما يجعل هذه الجواهر من الشهر والغ“ ف العال‪.‬‬ ‫كل سنة مجموعة محدّدة من القطع‬ ‫تعرض ‪ّ Bucherer‬‬ ‫التي تشمل هذه الجواهر النادرة بلو–ها‪ .‬ت ّم ابتكار مجموعة هذا‬ ‫العام ف مشاغل العلمة ع“ ضفاف بحية ‪Lake Lucerne‬‬ ‫وفيها قطعتان فريدتان هم عقدان فاخران من اللاس الصفر‬ ‫الكمثي‪ .‬استوحيا من التطريز التقليدي ‪ ،St Gallen‬من البلدة‬ ‫السويسيّة التي تحمل السم –فسه‪ ،‬وأحل التوازن بي الفخامة‬ ‫وحس الهشاشة التجم بالتخريم من جه ٍة‬ ‫الواضحة من جهة ّ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ماسات صفراء‬ ‫شابات مؤلّفة من عش‬ ‫أخرى‪ .‬تض ّم القلدة الول ّ‬ ‫فاخرة بقطعٍ كمثي‪ ،‬تزن ‪ 21.7‬قياطا ً وقد استغرقت حوال ‪150‬‬ ‫ساعة لصنعها‪.‬‬ ‫أ ّما القلدة الثا–ية التي استغرقت حرفيّي ‪Bucherer‬‬ ‫الاهرين ما يقارب الئتي ساعة ل–جازها‪ ،‬فتض ّم ‪ 12‬حجر ٍ‬ ‫ماس‬ ‫أصفر فاخر كمثي القطع‪ ،‬تزن ‪ 12.1‬قياطاً وتزيّنها ماسة فاخرة‬ ‫ذات لونٍ أصفر باهت كمثيّة القطع وتزن ‪ 7.02‬قياطاً‪.‬‬ ‫كل قلدة بحوال النصف مليون يورو وهي فريدة‬ ‫يُقدّر سعر ّ‬ ‫من –وعها تاماً وتتوافر عند الطلب للزبائن الضليعي ل غي‪.‬‬ ‫تجدر الشارة إل أ ّن هذه الاسات –ادرة للغاية بحيث شكّل جمع‬ ‫الكثي منها بهذه الجودة واللوان التطابقة‪ ،‬إحدى أصعب مراحل‬ ‫ابتكارها ع“ الطلق‪ .‬وما كان إل لعلمة بثابة ‪ Bucherer‬أن‬ ‫تطمح بالحصول ع“ هكذا قطعٍ –ادرة‪.‬‬ ‫إن ِ‬ ‫كنت تبحثي عن تصميمٍ استثنائ أو قطعة مثاليّة‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫بكل بساط ٍة‬ ‫لشخص عزيز ع“ القلب أو ترغبي ّ‬ ‫لناسبة مميّزة أو‬ ‫كل يوم‪ ،‬لن يخيب ظ ّنك ف مجموعة‬ ‫بحلية جديدة تتزيّني بها ّ‬ ‫‪ Diamonds Collection‬من ‪ .Bucherer‬ع“ ح ّد قول‬ ‫بأي مساومة‪”.‬‬ ‫‪“ :Lanz‬ل –قبل إل أع“ العايي ول –قوم ّ‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫‪Over The Top :60‬‬

‫موضة البالغة‬

‫من التصاميم الفضفاضة إل الزركشات الفرطة‪ ،‬تُسلّ” الضواء هذا‬ ‫الوسم ع“ اللبس الخارجيّة‪ ،‬تقرير ‪Maria Kirchen Hill‬‬

‫أسلوب ل يفنى ع“ سبيل‬ ‫لطرد البد ف الشتاء‪ ،‬من السهل اختيار‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫معطف‬ ‫معطف ب ّحا ٍر من الصوف السميك باللّون الكحل أو‬ ‫مقاوم للمطر باللّون الخردل‪ .‬لكن لجاراة الوضة هذا الوسم‪ ،‬ل‬ ‫التخل عن القطع الوثوقة واعتمد إطللة أكث جاذبيّة‪ .‬من‬ ‫ب ّد من ّ‬ ‫نيويورك إل ميلنو‪ ،‬لجأ كافّة الص ّممي هذا الوسم إل السلوب‬ ‫البالغ فيه ليثبتوا أ ّن للملبس الخارجيّة القدرة ع“ التميّز تاماً‬ ‫كاللبس التي تحتها‪.‬‬ ‫قدّم ‪ Demna Gvasalia‬مجموعته الول كمدير إبتكاري‬ ‫لـ ‪ Balenciaga‬هذا الوسم دامجاً السلوب الجريء الستوحى‬ ‫من الشارع‪ ،‬والذي اشتهر به لدى ‪ Vetements‬بهويّة هذا الدار‬ ‫الغني بالرسوم‪ .‬ف مجال اللبس الخارجيّة‪ ،‬عرض ‪Gvasalia‬‬ ‫إحدى أبرز صيحات الوضة هذا الوسم‪ :‬التصاميم الفضفاضة‪.‬‬ ‫ابتكر ستات عمليّة واسعة بألوانٍ صارخة‪ ،‬ارتدتها العارضات‬ ‫بطريق ٍة غي مبالية‪ ،‬منسدلة عن أكتافها‪ .‬وكذلك ف ‪،Vetements‬‬ ‫ساد أسلوب اللبس الريحة الرتخية‪ ،‬إل أ ّن التصاميم مبالغ فيها‬ ‫وبخاصة الستات الضخمة النسدلة أدن من الخص بكثي‪.‬‬ ‫للغاية‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أ ّما الستات البطّنة‪ ،‬ذات الشكال والحجام الختلفة‪،‬‬ ‫فشكّلت ظاهرة غي متوقّعة هذا الوسم‪ .‬قدّمت ‪Baleniaga‬‬ ‫منصة العرض ستات ضخمة منتفخة‪ ،‬كان البعض منها‬ ‫ع“ ّ‬ ‫منسدلً عن الكتاف والبعض الخر ململمً عند الرقبة ومز ّودا ً‬ ‫بقبّعة‪ .‬كم اعتمدت علمة ‪ Acne‬موضة اللبس الندسلة عن‬ ‫الكتاف‪ ،‬ف حي شملت ستات ‪ Marques Almeida‬حشوات‬ ‫أكتاف مضخّمة‪ .‬ولعبت النقوش واللوان دورا ً أساسيّاً أيضاً‪.‬‬ ‫تألّقت ابتكارات ‪ Carven‬البطّنة بألوانٍ ناعمة‪ ،‬فيم اختارت‬ ‫‪ Vivienne Westwood‬اللّون الذهبي الباهر‪ .‬وتيّزت إحدى‬ ‫ستات ‪ Emilio Pucci‬عن غيها بنظ ٍر جبل غني ذي ألوان‬ ‫خاصة ع“ إطللة‬ ‫حيويّة جعل منها القطعة الثاليّة لضفاء لسة ّ‬ ‫ما بعد التزلّج‪ .‬ولدى ‪ ،Alexander McQueen‬نُفّذت ستة‬ ‫شبه مبطّنة بنقش زهر ٍ‬ ‫ات مل ّونة ناعمة وزُخرفت حوافها بالفرو‪،‬‬ ‫فشكّل هذا التجاور بي الشكال القويّة والزخرفات الناعمة‪ ،‬خيارا ً‬ ‫جريئاً ٍ‬ ‫للباس مسائ‪.‬‬ ‫وف حال ل يتناسب لباسك السائ مع ست ٍة منتفخة‪ ،‬اختاري‬ ‫عبت ابتكارات‬ ‫القطعة البارزة الخرى هذا الوسم‪ :‬الوشاح‪ّ .‬‬ ‫‪ Erdem‬بالزهار الداكنة عن رومانسيّة جريئة‪ .‬ف حي اعتمد‬ ‫كل من ‪ Marc Jacobs‬و‪ Alexander McQueen‬الوشحة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الطويلة حتّى الرض‪ .‬زُخرِفت ابتكارات ‪ Marc Jacobs‬من‬ ‫الصوف الرمادي الداكن بد ّوامات سوداء خلبة مط ّرزة بالتتر‪،‬‬ ‫ف حي انسجمت أوشحة ‪ Alexander McQueen‬الشفّافة‬ ‫الناعمة تاماً مع الثواب السائيّة الرائعة وزُخرف الثنان بجواهر‬ ‫تذكّر بالنجوم ف سمء اللّيل الحالك‪ .‬ومن قال إ ّن الوشحة‬ ‫للمناسبات الميّزة فحسب؟ أضافت أوشحة ‪ Dior‬الصغية لسة‬ ‫خاصة إل التصاميم البسيطة‪ ،‬ف حي كانت أوشحة ‪Chanel‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫محبوكة وزاهية اللوان فمنحت أسلوب العلمة التمثّل بقطعتي‪،‬‬ ‫نفح ًة عصيّة‪.‬‬

‫منصات العرض اللبس الخارجيّة الغريبة‬ ‫ل تبز ع“ ّ‬ ‫كل مكان ألوا–اً صارخة‬ ‫فحسب‪ ،‬بل استخدم الص ّممون ف ّ‬ ‫وزركشات ومواد خارجة عن الألوف لتحديث الساليب‬ ‫الكلسيكيّة‪ .‬اختارت الص ّممة ‪ Miuccia Prada‬لدى ‪Miu‬‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫معطف ٍ‬ ‫لفت يدمج بي النقوش‬ ‫‪ Miu‬إطللة مميّزة من خلل‬ ‫القويّة وألوان الزهر الش ّع والحمر الناري والكتاف الزخرفة‬ ‫بالجواهر وحتّى الرقع الدروزة‪ .‬واصلت ‪ Prada‬الختبارات من‬ ‫خلل معاطف وستات تشمل الجاكار الذهبي والنقوش الفنيّة‬ ‫والحزمة التينة‪ .‬ولوحظ أسلوب لعوب ممثل لدى & ‪Dolce‬‬ ‫‪ Gabbana‬حيث ط ّرزت العاطف با يشبه الهررة الحقيقيّة‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫بربطات رقعيّة‪.‬‬ ‫وزيّنت‬ ‫أثبتت علمة ‪ MSGM‬ق ّوة اللوان الزاهية بعاطفها‬ ‫الرجا–يّة اللفتة لل–ظار الز ّودة بحزام أحمر –اري وشا ٍل أصفر‬ ‫ساطع‪ .‬ت ّم تنسيق معطف الفرو الصفر الزاهي من ‪ Gucci‬مع‬ ‫لباس من اللّون –فسه من الرأس حتّى أخمص القدمي‪ ،‬ما–حاً‬ ‫منصات‬ ‫إطللة للجريئات فق”‪ .‬كم كان للجلد تواجد قوي ع“ ّ‬

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‫‪PHOTO: ARNOLD JAEGER WERNER CC BY 2.0‬‬

‫عا ّم للف ّن العاص ف حي تقدّم معارض ‪ Pinakothek‬الثلثة‬ ‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫ف ‪( Kunstareal‬منطقة الفنون) أعمل بعض أبرز السم“‬ ‫ف تاريخ الف ّن الغرب‪ .‬لكن كل ّالنظار مو ّجهة الن إل متحف‬ ‫‪City Of Culture :52‬‬ ‫‪ Lenbachhaus‬ف شارع ‪ ،Luisenstrasse‬بجناحه الذهبي‬ ‫مدينة الثقافة‬ ‫الؤلّف من ثلثة طوابق من تصميم ‪ .Norman Foster‬يض ّم‬ ‫أعمل التحف التعبييّة ويعرض ابتكارات مجموعة ‪Blaue‬‬ ‫تأسست ف ميونخ ف أوائل القرن العشين وشملت‬ ‫‪ Reiter‬التي ّ‬ ‫ف ّناني مثل ‪ Waaaily Kandinsky‬و‪ Franz Marc‬و‪Paul‬‬ ‫‪.Klee‬‬ ‫التخصصة بوتية سيعة ف‬ ‫كم تنمو ظاهرة التاجر‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ميونخ حيث يقدّم الت ّجار مزيجاً مميّزا ً من الزيا“ الفاخرة‬ ‫والغراض العمليّة الختارة بعناية‪ ،‬جاذبي الحليّي والز ّوار عل‬ ‫ح ّد سوا“‪ .‬نذكر ف هذا السياق متجر ‪ Bean Store‬ف شارع‬ ‫مؤسسة التجر ‪Laura‬‬ ‫‪ّ .Theresienstrasse‬‬ ‫تخصصت ّ‬ ‫‪ Bohnenberg‬ف مجال تاريخ الفنون وصحافة الزيا“ وحرصت‬ ‫عل خلق تجربة تس ّوق أكث خصوصيّة ف ميونخ‪ .‬تقول عن‬ ‫الساحة الضيئة الغنيّة باللوان‪ ،‬التي تض ّم أغراضاً بأسعا ٍر متفاوتة‪:‬‬ ‫“أردنا أن نحدث فرقاً ف طريقة تعاطينا مع الزبائن”‪ .‬تجد لدى‬ ‫‪ Bean‬علمات ‪ Acne‬و‪ APC‬و‪ Carven‬و‪Maison‬‬ ‫‪ Kitsuné‬و‪ .YMC‬وتضيف‪“ :‬كم لدينا الكثي من العلمات‬ ‫التجاريّة الحصيّة عل سبيل ‪ Maria Black‬و‪Maska‬‬ ‫و‪ Kaibosh‬و‪ Kow Tow‬و‪ ،OZN‬لكن ما نفتخر به ح ّقاً هو‬ ‫عدد البتكرين الذين يتعاونون من خلل متجرنا‪”.‬‬ ‫أ ّما لدى ‪ Cantine Cantona‬ف الشارع الحيوي‬ ‫‪ ،Schellingstrasse‬فيكث الطلب عل الطباق الطازجة‬ ‫الحيويّة ال ُعدّة من مك ّونات محليّة موسميّة‪ .‬إنّه أحد الطاعم‬ ‫التزايدة التي تعتمد أسلوب الطعام الريح غي الرسمي‪ ،‬وهو‬ ‫بفضل ج ّو من البتكار الجديد من نوعه‪ ،‬تصبح ميونخ إحدى‬ ‫كل البعد عن الطعام البافاري الدسم والطباق‬ ‫أسلوب بعيد ّ‬ ‫ال ُوجهات التي ل ب ّد من زيارتها ف العال‪ .‬تشي ‪ Beth Druce‬إل‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫التقليديّة التي اشتهرت بها ميونخ لسنوات‪ .‬يقول ‪“ :Jäger‬كان‬ ‫الشخاص والماكن الجديرة بالهتمم‬ ‫لقرب إيطاليا التأثي عل ميونخ‪ ...‬فتجد الكثي من الطاعم‬ ‫اليطاليّة الجيّدة هنا‪ .‬ويبدو الن أنّه ث ّة موجة من الطاعم‬ ‫عندما يتعلّق المر بالرحلت داخل الدن‪ ،‬تكث طلباتنا‪ .‬بينم ك ّنا‬ ‫نكتفي بتاريخ متواضع ومطبخ محلّ ‪ ،‬بتنا نبحث اليوم عن ُو ٍ‬ ‫وبخاصة الفييتناميّة واليابانيّة‪Emiko ”.‬‬ ‫جهات السيويّة البتكرة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫عل سبيل الثال‪ ،‬مطع ٌم يابان عصي ف فندق ‪ Louis‬ف‬ ‫تتمتّع بزايا مه ّمة ومتن ّوعة لتضينا؛ ولهذا السبب تحظى ميونخ‬ ‫‪ ،Viktualienmarkt‬ويشتهر بأطباقه البتكرة العدّة لكث من‬ ‫بالشهرة الن‪ .‬إنّها ثالث أكب مدينة ف ألانيا وعاصمة بافاريا وقد‬ ‫شخص‪.‬‬ ‫زادت أهميّتها منذ أوائل السبعينات عندما حملت إليها اللعاب‬ ‫جاذب ف الدينة‪ ،‬يقول ‪ Jäger‬إنّها تعود‬ ‫الحياة اللّيليّة خيا ٌر‬ ‫الولبيّة سنة ‪ 1972‬استثمرات كبى ومنحتها ظهورا ً عاليّاً‪ .‬اليوم‬ ‫ٌ‬ ‫إل أوائل التسعينات عندما “جعل كبار منتجي الوسيقى من‬ ‫وبعد ‪ 45‬سنة تقريباً‪ ،‬تقدّم ميونخ خيارات أكث تن ّوعاً ومتع ًة من‬ ‫أي ٍ‬ ‫ميونخ مركزا ً للديسكو والوسيقى بشكلٍ عا ّم”‪ .‬من الماكن الفضّ لة‬ ‫وقت مض‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لديه ‪ Schumann’s Bar‬ف ‪ ،Odeonplatz‬حيث الديكور‬ ‫يقول ‪“ :Niels Jäger‬تتمتّع العاصمة البافاريّة بأفضل‬ ‫الداخل فولذي وخشبي متواضع‪ .‬تعود الحياة إل هذا الكان‬ ‫الزايا التناقضة‪ :‬إنّها تاريخيّة وعصيّة وصغية وعاليّة وهادئة‬ ‫بعد منتصف اللّيل عندما تجد كافّة الذواق ما تستسيغه من‬ ‫ومفعمة بالحياة”‪ .‬ميونخ هي مسقط رأس ‪ ،Jäger‬الدير‬ ‫مشوبات مميّزة ابتكرها الالك (وأحيانا ً عارض الزيا“) ‪Charles‬‬ ‫البتكاري لعلمة كرة السلّة ‪ K1X‬الذي يلك أيضاً بعض الطاعم‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫‪.Schumann‬‬ ‫استوح َي‬ ‫ونادياً ليليّاً والفندق الجديد ‪.Flushing Measows‬‬ ‫كل هذ’ الثقافة‪ ،‬ل عجب أن يسهى عن بالنا‬ ‫بالحديث عن ّ‬ ‫وص ّمم بالتعاون مع‬ ‫هذا الخي من سفرات ‪ Jäger‬إل نيويور” ُ‬ ‫أحد أشهر وأعرق العال ف ميونخ‪ .‬تن ّز’ ف حديقة ‪Englischer‬‬ ‫أسم“ لمعة ف مجالت الثقافة والتصميم والرياضة؛ وهو تعاون‬ ‫‪ Garten‬المتدّة عل مساحة ‪ 365‬هكتارا ً واستمتع بشاهدة‬ ‫يراه ‪ Jäger‬بالجامع لعناص ميونخ الجوهريّة اليوم‪.‬‬ ‫يقول ‪“ : Jäger‬بطبيعة الحال‪ ،‬تتمتّع الدينة بالكثي من‬ ‫راكبي أمواج ف جدو ٍل ما ّئ اصطناعي أو تُه بي الشجار أو اجلس‬ ‫الخيارات الطبيعيّة‪ ،‬بحكم قربها من جبال اللب والبحيات‪ .‬لكن ببساطة بحاذاة بحية ‪ Kleinhesseloher‬وتتّع بالهدو“‪.‬‬ ‫بكل ما ف ميونخ‪ ،‬ستجد أنّها قد تكون ما تريد’‬ ‫ف الوقت نفسه‪ ،‬تجد ف ميونخ ثقافة حضيّة وحياة ليليّة وفنوناً فبعد الستمتاع ّ‬ ‫حق‪.‬‬ ‫متحف‬ ‫ومطاعم متن ّوعة‪ ”.‬ف مجال الف ّن‪ٌ Haus der Kunst ،‬‬ ‫عن ّ‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

110 | P RO D U C T S

SOUVENIR

WILD AT HEART German accessories brand MCM is marking its 40th anniversary in style with an opulent, elegant collection – called Munich Epoque – that pays tribute to the history and creative spirit of its home town. This mini calfskin tote is one of the many highlights of a standout collection that uses rich colours and bold patterns, coupled with simple shapes, to striking effect. With its on-trend animal print, Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 95

pop of red and oversized navy fur lucky charm, it will add a distinctive finishing touch to even the simplest outfit. Look out for some of the other covetable pieces from the collection, including the Mitte Brocade shoulder bag with its ornate metallic embroidery, and the Baroque Print shopper in primary hues. fm MCM Milla Gepard tote, €1,815, MCM Studio, Brienner Strasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2420 7622, mcmworldwide.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 90

Porsche Design Timepieces

1919 DATETIMER ETERNIT Y Exquisite alligator leather and browned titanium. Timeless elegance inspired by Bauhaus architecture and design. Designed in Austria. Swiss made.

19 19 C O L L E C T I O N INSPIRED BY OUR PASSION FOR DESIGN

www.porsche-design.com Munich | DienerstraĂ&#x;e 17

THE SWISS HOUSE OF WATCHES AND FINE JEWELRY Switzerland

Germany

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München Residenzstraße 2 | Residenzstraße 11 | Neuhauser Straße 2 Switzerland : Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich Germany : Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Austria : Vienna | France : Paris | bucherer.com