SHOP Munich SS15

MUNICH | МЮНХЕН | 慕尼黑 |

MUNICH Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2015

Page 62 MODEL CITY: how Munich became a contemporary design hub

‫ميونخ‬

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind.

For more than 135 years, the name

customers express when they purchase

“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost

jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of

expertise in the art of making jewellery

jewellery uphold international standards

and timepieces. We offer a unique

and are born in our own atelier. This is

selection of valuable treasures at 28

true for unusual one-of-a-kind items

Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are

as well as for our diverse assortment

especially proud because for more than

of classic pieces with brilliant-cut

a century we have been privileged to

diamonds. And a century-old friendship

contribute to the grand feelings that our

links us with the world’s foremost watch

We accept all credit cards.

www.wempe.com

manufactories. You will find WEMPE

will always be available to meet your

showrooms at the loveliest locations

individual needs. We cordially invite you

in great European metropolises, New

to discover an abundance of interesting

York City and in Beijing. Each shop also

new items and exclusive special models

offers service or advice whenever you

at one of Europe’s leading jewellers. We

require it, so you can be certain that we

look forward to your visit!

Maximilianstraße 10, T +49.(0)89.29 12 99 muenchen.max@wempe.de Weinstraße 11, T +49.(0)89.242 38 06 muenchen.weinstrasse@wempe.de A. Lange & Söhne Boutique Perusastraße 3-4, T +49.(0)89.255 44 780 lange-soehne-muenchen@wempe.de HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK

München Residenzstraße 2 | Residenzstraße 11 Neuhauser Straße 2

Willkommen bei Bucherer, ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmen und eines der führenden Häuser für Uhren und Schmuck in Europa. In unseren Münchner Geschäften in der Residenzstraße und in der Neuhauser Straße erwartet Sie eine große Auswahl an Luxus-Uhrenmarken sowie exquisite Schmuckstücke und ein erstklassiger Service.

Welcome to Bucherer,

WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS

a Swiss company with a long tradition and one of the leading establishments for watches and jewellery in Europe. In our Munich store at Residenzstrasse and at Neuhauser Strasse you will find a broad selection of luxury watch brands and exquisite jewellery, as well as first-class service.

Patek Philippe is available at the following Bucherer stores: Berlin Friedrichstraße 179, Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1 and Munich Residenzstraße 11.

Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com

und viele mehr and many more

The Oberpollinger department store offers its customers a stunning range of exquisite lifestyle goods spread over 34,000 m2 of shopping area. Featuring a designer boulevard, prestigious fashion labels, a special concierge service, gourmet specialities as well as anything a discerning customer requires. Visit this exciting world of luxury just waiting to be explored right in the heart of Bavaria’s capital.

Te department store frst opened its doors in 1905. It has been expanded and continually modernized over the course of its more than 100-year history.

Innovative interior plus an exclusive selection of products and services place the Oberpollinger a cut above the rest.

International labels line up like pearls on a string along our unique designer boulevard: Prada, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu, Bottega Veneta, Dior, Fendi, Burberry, Tod’s, Mulberry, Longchamp, Ralph Lauren Accessoires and Salvatore Ferragamo.

Te glamorous names of our accessory boutiques constitute a veritable who’s who of the fashion world. Once you have reached the end of our designer boulevard, you’ll fnd Oberpollinger’s spacious beauty world. Here visitors can enjoy an exclusive treatment in one of the many beauty lounges.

Munich’s cosmopolitan department store provides fashion labels, international designer brands of women’s apparel and menswear, undergarments, lingerie and hosiery as well as the season’s latest footwear trends.

Our concierge service at the main entrance is oneof-a-kind in Germany. Tis is where all your wishes will be fulflled. Whether you would like to book a personal shopper, use a delivery service, order a taxi or fnd a good restaurant for the evening, our service philosophy caters towards our customers‘ every need.

On the fourth foor, you will fnd our customer service centre, dealing with your everyday needs, such as tax-free shopping papers for our foreign customers.

Our home & living department on the fourth foor boasts a wide selection of products, including designer objects, decorative elements and highquality home textiles. The ever-popular LeBuffet restaurant on the ffh foor is the ideal choice for a smart lunch break. The spacious rooftop terrace provides a grand panoramic view over Munich – as well as enjoyment and relaxation galore.

A staf of nearly 600 employees is looking forward to serve more than 20,000 customers from Munich and beyond each day. Welcome to a new era of shopping.

Welcome to Oberpollinger.

SERV IC ES

T I ME IS A LUXU RY NOWA DAYS , S O LET U S MAKE T IME FOR YOU !

PERS ONAL SHOPPER Our Personal Shopper specialists will make your shopping trip to our store into a really unique and wonderful experience. We cater specifcally to your personal preferences and wishes, showing you gif ideas, sharing the latest news about our store, and letting you know about limited edition products. One call is all it takes for your Personal Shopper to spring into action. Te next time you visit Oberpollinger a specially selected range of fashions will await you, perfectly tailored to your particular tastes, size and preferred brands. You can then try everything on at a time arranged to suit you, whilst enjoying a drink in our exclusive, private changing area.

For further information, please contact us on +49 89 2902 5120

In addition, the Oberpollinger is delighted to ofer you many other exclusive services:

C ONCI ERGE SERVIC E Our concierge service based on the ground foor can organize a chaufeur and delivery service, personal shopping appointments, restaurant & hotel bookings, fower services, and much, much morge: just ask!

GI FT-W R APPING SERV IC ES Our expertise is to make even the smallest gif stand out. Arrive with personalised packaging for your gif and our team will be delighted to help you. Te packing/gif-wrapping service is in the Service Center on the 4th Floor.

BEAUT Y LOUNGES & SERVIC ES Te exclusive wellness & treatment area provides relief from the stresses of the day and beckons you into the world of the senses. Indulge yourself with the latest treatments and professional services that are available from our beauty specialists in our beauty lounges. In addition, whether you need a wellness manicure and pedicure or a new Make-up, all beauty treatments are carried out at Oberpollinger with total care and professionalism. For further information, contact our customer service.

C OM PLI MENTARY WI FI Simply log-in while you are visiting the Oberpollinger and enjoy complimentary wireless internet connection for up to 3 hours.

CUSTOMER SERV IC ES Unfortunately even we cannot always completely check all our products. Should you fnd a fault with your purchase from Oberpollinger, we will do our utmost to resolve the matter quickly, without complications and to your full satisfaction. Should you have any questions, suggestions or complaints, our customer services on the 4th foor are always willing to listen. Our top priority is to fulfl your every wish and to always do better for you.

For further information, please call +49 89 2902 3235.

IN -HOUSE TAI LOR Our in-house tailors can change your clothing items and bring them to perfection, regardless of whether these were purchased in Oberpollinger or in other stores. If you have an alteration request, simply tell one of the staf in the clothes department; they will be happy to assist you and organise everything for you.

TAX F RE E AVA IL A BL E AT EAC H C ASH POIN T. Currency choice available, which allows you to pay in your own currency.

Oberpollinger München ∙ Neuhauser Str. 18 ∙ 80331 München ∙ Tel. +49 89 2902 30 www.oberpollinger.de ∙ Opening Hours: Mon - Sat 10 am - 8 pm

MÜNCHEN - WEINSTRASSE 5

14

EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Руководство Германия

Maybe you’re already familiar with Munich, or perhaps it’s the frst time you’ve visited this inspiring German city. Either way, SHOP magazine is sure to ofer something to surprise you. Discover the emerging talents and established brands who are making Munich an international design hotspot on page 62, pick up tips from a fashion insider on page 38, and fnd out how to make the most of a visit to one of the city’s historic department stores in our news pages.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Munich. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free Global Blue Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

@shopcontent

巴黎

Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Tokyo Vienna Vilnius /globalblue

ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Welcome to Munich

Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Nuremburg Oslo Paris

OYS TER PER PE TUA L MILG AUS S

16

CONTRIBUTORS

ILLUSTRATION: LUCY VIGRASS

Lucy Vigrass Lucy Vigrass created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Munich. Her bold, graphic style makes her the perfect choice to illustrate this cover, which is inspired by our feature on Munich’s emerging design scene on page 62.

It shows interconnecting furniture and interior-design pieces working with elements of the city’s architectural landmarks.

Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Josh Sims Freelance journalist and editor Josh Sims contributes on a wide range of subjects to publications that include the Financial Times, Independent, Observer, Wallpaper and Esquire. His latest book is Icons of Women’s Style, published in April 2015. globalblue.com

Verity Hogan History graduate Verity Hogan swapped writing about crinolines for more contemporary clothes when she moved to London to pursue a career in journalism.

She now works as SHOP’s features editor.

Sarah Beyts Sarah Beyts is SHOP’s creative editor and deputy picture editor. After taking modules in the history of photography while studying in New York, she moved to London to pursue her career in the feld of images. In her spare time Sarah enjoys country rambles.

GANT STORES MÜNCHEN FL AGSHIP STORE HOFSTAT T – SENDLINGER STR ASSE 10 AIRPORT MÜNCHEN TERMINAL 2 EBENE 4 AIRSIDE W W W.GANT.COM

CHRIST jewellers and watchmakers in Munich Kaufingerstraße 11 · Kaufingerstraße 26 · Pasing Arcaden · 2x Olympia-Einkaufszentrum · Neuhauser Straße 35 (near Stachus) 2x pep Einkaufs-Center Perlach (Neuperlach) · Riem Arcaden · Weinstraße 6

CHRIST DIAMONDS 𒥆કDŽ 200 ໮䒐 CHRIST ϧप刧𗥓偹ᖋ㊁ˈ ҹܼᮄᮍᓣᛳফ𙂇⷇儙⅙

www.christ.de

CHRIST ᇞѿ𑀗𖠗 0180/5 32 10 98˄ᖋ㊁ᴀ㌲㉸𖠗䗮ֵ𗅶𗅥 ᖋ㊁ᴀ㌲㉸𖠗䗮ֵ𗅶𗅥 0.14 ⃻‫ܗ‬ ⃻‫ܗ‬/ߚ䩳 ߚ䩳˗ ⿏ⅲ𑀗𖠗𗅶𗅥玀𠙒 0.42 ⃻‫ܗ‬ ⃻‫ܗ‬/ߚ䩳˅ ߚ䩳˅*ଂӋ呥𖠢 ଂӋ呥𖠢 ** ⱑ㡆ǃᇣ‫╙ݙ‬⠽⡍呡ǃӬ㡃ߛ偉

▔垅DŽᖋ㊁ࠊ䗴DŽ

MUNICH AM MARIENPLATZ Welcome to your GALERIA Kaufhof Pure lifestyle shopping – enjoy the perfect shopping adventure and find top brands in our world of goods.

Expect an exclusive selection with individual assortments from the worlds of fashion, beauty, home, sport and gourmet food as well as the streetwear in our fashion store U.STYLE. If you come from a country outside the EU, please enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof!

We are looking forward to your visit!

Your GALERIA Kaufhof Munich, Am Marienplatz

Please scan the QR-code with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Munich, Marienplatz.

GALERIA Kaufhof... ... makes you fall in love with Germany

GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

www.galeria.de

Beauty and more … visit Europe’ No. 1 perfumery!

W E W I L L B E P L E A S E D TO W E LC O M E YO U TO T H E D O U G L A S W O R L D O F B E AU T Y I N M U N I C H : • Neuhauser Straße 3, 089 - 149024700 • Kaufingerstraße 12, 089 - 23241153 • Weinstraße 7, 089 - 2554276 • Theatinerstraße 40, 089 - 295293

Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories.

With 1,200 perfumeries in 18 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers.

Explore our world of beauty!

24

SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone

Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh

Cover illustrator Lucy Vigrass

Online production assistant Marina Nelson

Contributor Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Features editor Verity Hogan City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Assistant fashion and news editor Gemma Latham Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold Fashion and news intern Rebecca Fearn Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/Deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Sarah Walker Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, George Trinick Artworking intern Samantha Junak

Online assistant Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liu Chinese translators Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok

GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Vice president sales central Europe Thorsten Lind Country manager Jörg Schönbeck Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Sales manager Pino Dufter Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Tourismusamt München, Sendlingerstrasse 1, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2339 6500, muenchen-tourist.de

Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy

Chief Executive Officer David Baxby

Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia

Chief Traveller Officer Craig Le Grice

Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang Digital marketing intern Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Digital intern Sammy Ha Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini

SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

calvinklein.com M端nchen Rosenstrasse 6

München, Bahnhofplatz Karstadt Warenhaus GmbH | Theodor-Althoff-Straße 2 | 45133 Essen

Fashion, Lifestyle & more Our branches in excellent downtown locations of most important German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience.

Not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events attract throngs of buyers.

Enjoy your next shopping spree on the discovery journey through our store Karstadt M端nchen.

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CONTENTS p.80

P ROD U C T S 34 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Munich this season 38 My Favourites MyTheresa.com’s buying director Justin O’Shea reveals his top tips for spring/ summer 2015 40 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N EWS 50 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Munich 52 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products Above: Cneeon spring/summer 2015

F E AT U R E S 62 Cover Story: Blueprint For Success Munich is rapidly becoming a centre for contemporary design, attracting both emerging talents and established international brands, says Josh Sims 70 Colour Magic Escada’s Daniel Wingate talks to Sally McIlhone about the launch of the spring/ summer 2015 collection and an intriguing new capsule range 80 Bright Young Things Germany’s up-and-coming fashion labels are turning away from the country’s characteristic minimalism in favour of playful prints, as Verity Hogan explains

30

CONTENTS p.88

EXPERIENCE 88 Table Talk Eating out in Munich is a richly rewarding experience, says Isabella Redmond Styles 92 Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels GU I DE 97 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Munich

ESSENTI A LS 112 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S 114 Русский Перевод 121 美文翻译 129 129 日本語翻訳 SOU V E N I R 130 The essential item to bring home

Above: Occam Deli is one of the newer stars of Munich’s culinary scene

TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE 1887 Pushing you to the ex treme, overcoming all boundaries makes Formula 1 more than just a physical challenge; it is a test of mental strength. Like TAG Heuer, you have to strive to be the best and never crack under pressure.

Boutique Munich • Theatinerstraße 44 • Tel. 089 25 54 72 90

In the mood for fashion?

Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices. visit us: www.canda.com facebook.com/ca München Kaufngerstraße 13 • Bayerstraße 21 • Moosach Olympia Einkaufszentrum

Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам.

‫هل أنت راغب بآخر الصيحات؟‬ ،‫ ستجدون لدينا أخر صيحات الموضة‬.C&A ‫إذا ستسعد بما تقدمه محلت‬ ‫ وماعليكم إل أن تتمتعوا بالتسوق في‬.‫من ملبس السبور إلى قمة الناقة‬ ‫ لقد عودنا زبائننا الكرام على تشكيلة واسعة من ملبس السيدات‬.‫محلتنا‬ . ‫والرجال والطفال ذات النوعية العالية وبأفضل الثمان‬

34 | P RO D U C T S

CHECK OUT

TIME MOVES ON This luxurious timepiece from Swiss watchmaker Chopard is from the brand’s popular Happy Sport collection. It’s a tastefully extravagant edition: 38 diamonds adorn the bezel, surrounding an elegant silver-toned dial with Roman numerals in rose gold, to match the hands and shimmering 18-carat gold bracelet. Inside the face an additional seven diamonds, in individual rose gold settings, move around freely to create a playful accessory. The innovative Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 112

Happy Diamonds watch design was frst presented by Chopard in 1976 and features a dial suspended between two sapphire crystals, making the addition of foating gemstones possible. The concept has also been used to create pendants, rings and earrings in many diferent styles, and has become one of Chopard’s best-loved signature collections. gl Chopard Happy Sport watch, €31,830, Chopard, Maximilianstrasse 11, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 224343, chopard.com * for map go to page 105

windsor.de

windsor. Store, DienerstraĂ&#x;e 16, Munich

38 | P RO D U C T S

MY FAVOURITES: Justin O’Shea As buying director for online boutique MyTheresa.com, Justin O’Shea has a knack for spotting next season’s must-haves. When he’s not jetting between appointments, he can be found in the MyTheresa.com warehouse on the outskirts of Munich, getting hands-on with the latest fnds. With all this insider knowledge at his disposal, we ask him to share his top city picks with Theresa Harold 1

Bayerischer Hof, Promenadeplatz 2-6, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 21200, bayerischerhof.de

2. ‘Cada is my favourite jeweller in the city’ Cada asymetric star ring in 18-carat pink gold with white diamonds, €1,450, Cada, Mafeistrasse 8, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 255 4270, cada-schmuck.de

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 112

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PHOTO: (PROFILE) MIKE ADRELL

1. ‘I actually live in the Bayerischer Hof hotel in the city centre when I am in Munich. It’s a very beautiful hotel with an amazing rooftop spa’

S H O P | 39

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3. ‘Top of my wishlist this season are the V-stripe short-sleeved shirts from Louis Vuitton’

4. ‘For dinner go to Chez Fritz. The steak and French fries are amazing, and it has a cool vibe’

Louis Vuitton, Maximilianstrasse 2A, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 5589 38000, louisvuitton.com

Chez Fritz, Preysingstrasse 20, 81667 Munich, +49 (0)89 448 7676, chezfritz.de

globalblue.com

PHOTO: © JOERN BLOHM

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

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5. ‘Servus Heimat is a really nice shop where you will fnd little traditional but chic Bavarian gifts, and also some amusing things’ Servus Heimat, Brunnstrasse 3, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2429 4780, servusheimat.com

40 | P RO D U C T S

MAN ABOUT TOWN Channel laid-back cool with these casual-luxe essentials, from pared-back sandals to fashion-forward sunglasses

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1. Tod’s perforated leather belt, €260, Tod’s, Maximilianstrasse 21, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2429 7693, tods.com

3. Boss Absolute satchel, €449, Hugo Boss, Maximilianstrasse 21, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2421 8880, hugoboss.com

2. Hermès Kos sandals, €550, Hermès, Maximilianstrasse 22, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 291 9703, hermes.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 112

4. Diesel Jogg-X jeans, €340, Diesel, Residenzstrasse 3, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2102 1720, diesel.com

PHOTOS: (2) © VICENTE SAHUC; (4) MARCO TONNI

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S H O P | 41 5

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5. Salvatore Ferragamo sunglasses, €325, Salvatore Ferragamo, Maximilianstrasse 29, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2916 0911, ferragamo.com 6. Marc O’Polo pastel check shirt, €69.90, Marc O’Polo, Theatinerstrasse 11, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2554 6690, marc-o-polo.com

globalblue.com

7. Montblanc Metamorphosis II watch, €270,000, Montblanc, Maximilianstrasse 14, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2554 6706, montblanc.com

8. Mercedes-Benz Club fragrance, 50ml, €49.99, Douglas, Theatinerstrasse 40, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 295293, perfume.mercedes-benz.com

42 | P RO D U C T S

BLUE SKIES

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Pair silver and blue to create a chic and simple summer ensemble

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1. Roeckl handbag, €429, Roeckl, Mafeistrasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2916 8239, roeckl.com

3. Benetton sandals, €49.95, Benetton, Kaufngerstrasse 15, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2601 9470, benetton.com

2. Dorothee Schumacher blouse, €349, Dorothee Schumacher, Odeonsplatz 11, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2126 8095, dorothee-schumacher.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 112

4. Airfeld jeans, €179.90, Airfeld, Theatinerstrasse 46, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2111 1977, airfeld.at

Munich: NeuturmstraĂ&#x;e 5 & TheatinerstraĂ&#x;e 33

44 | P RO D U C T S

1970s GLAM

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Go all out this season with bold colours and glittering accessories

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1. Swarovski New Power Crystalfall clutch bag, €549, Swarovski, Marienplatz 20, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2303 2650, swarovski.com

3. Jimmy Choo Fenzy shoes, €675, Jimmy Choo, Maximilianstrasse 16, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 5007 7960, jimmychoo.com

2. Marc Cain bracelet, €49.90, Marc Cain, Windenmacherstrasse 2, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 4613 6972, marc-cain.com

4. Pomellato Bahia rings, from €6,650, Pomellato, Maximilianstrasse 34, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2102 0382, pomellato.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 112

5. Escada jumpsuit, €599, Escada, Maximilianstrasse 25, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 219 9650, escada.com

PHOTO: (3) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY

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46 | P RO D U C T S

BAGS OF COLOUR Celebrate the sunshine with eye-catching arm candy in bright pops of primary shades

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1. Burberry Prorsum handbag, €1,595, Burberry, Perusastrasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 226564, burberry.com

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3. Bally shoulder bag in printed calf leather, €750, Bally, Maximilianstrasse 11-15, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 290 8240, bally.com

2. Longchamp 2.0 handbag, €355, Longchamp, Residenzstrasse 7, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2429 1880, longchamp.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 112

4. Furla bag, €590, Furla, Theatinerstrasse 30, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2422 4200, furla.com

PHOTO: (2) CHRISTOPHE PETITEAU

2

BR A N D S Discover a wide selection of international brands, such as ...

SATURN MUNICH Expertise and a passion for technology

Saturn offers a wide range of fascinating branded products at attractive prices as well as expert advice and customised service. Just like at a trade fair, customers can find the latest trends in technology at the five Saturn stores located in Theresienhรถhe, on Stachus (Karlsplatz) and at the Olympia and PEP as well as Riem Arcaden shopping centres.

The products are as innovative as their presentation is striking: modern technology can be experienced first hand, variety and relevance are key. The range of goods includes product categories such as consumer electronics, new media, household appliances, telecommunications, computers, photography and video.

Customers can shop in their local store, but also online and even with their smartphone to later pick up their purchases from the store if they wish. Furthermore, the electronics retailer has installed two Xpress machines at Munich airport.

The company is one of the leading players in European electronics retailing.

Theresienhöhe Schwanthalerstr. 115 80339 München

Stachus Neuhauser Str. 39 80331 München

OEZ Hanauer Str. 77 80993 München

PEP Ollenhauerstr. 6 81737 München

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SHOP WINDOW

THE PERSONAL TOUCH A true star of the Munich shopping scene, department store Ludwig Beck opened in the heart of Munich in 1861. More than 150 years later and the store is still a must-visit on any trip to the city. A highlight of the Ludwig Beck experience is the personal shopping service for men and women, which is skilfully tailored to suit each individual’s needs. The staf act as consultants, stylists and buyers at the same time, and are experts in the felds of fashion and style. You can count on them for advice Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 112

on the latest trends and products, as well as insider tips on the best deals across the store.

Once they’ve talked you through everything you’re looking to gain from the experience, you can relax with light refreshments in the private lounge while the personal shoppers do all the hard work for you. For those who are really pressed for time, the team can also bring a selection of outfts and accessories to your hotel room or ofce for you to peruse. hl Ludwig Beck, Marienplatz 11, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 236910, ludwigbeck.de * for map go to page 102

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WILD AT HEART

ROCK THE LOOK The 1970s were everywhere this season and nowhere more so than on the catwalk at Saint Laurent. Under Hedi Slimane, Saint Laurent may have dropped the ‘Yves’ from its name, but the spirit of its founder was present throughout. French disco-tech outft Aleide set the mood right from the start, while bona fde rock royalty looked on (guests included Daft Punk and The Libertines). As ever, the silhouette from Slimane was long and lean. This translated into chunky platforms

worn with glossy tights to elongate limbs.

Barely there leather shorts were shown with a pinstriped blazer and knotted silk scarf – the new sartorial shorthand for ‘I’m with the band’.

The high point of the show came when Cara Delevingne stalked the catwalk with a feline ferceness that perfectly matched her leopard miniskirt. th Saint Laurent, Maximilianstrasse 24, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 9699 7990, ysl.com * for map go to page 105 Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 112

gold, dotted with black lacquer and set with two tsavorites for eyes, this ring is playful yet classic, and is a great way to add a little personality to your look without compromising on elegance. mkh Cartier, Maximilianstrasse 20, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 242 6700, cartier.com * for map go to page 105

PHOTO: (RIGHT) VINCENT DE LA FAILLE © CARTIER

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

Launched in 1914, Cartier’s iconic Panthère line owes its enduring success to founder Louis Cartier and jeweller Jeanne Toussaint’s shared fascination with the power of the panther, in which they found the inspiration for some of the celebrated jewellery house’s most beautiful pieces. It remains one of Cartier’s emblems today, and after more than a century a piece of jewellery from the Panthère collection makes just as strong an impact. In 18-carat yellow

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POP UP, STAY UP Pop-ups don’t come much more ambitious than this. For one thing, Urban Outftters’ Munich outpost is staying for a whole year.

It’s located in the Alte Akademie, a building that dates back to the 16th century. Most recently, it was home to the Bavarian Statistical Ofce but when the ofce moved out in 2012, the building stood empty – until Urban

Outftters came along. In late 2014, the popular retailer commissioned a small team of European display artists to transform the space, creating a bright and quirky store stocking the latest selection of clothing, homeware and gifts. th Urban Outftters, Neuhauser Strasse 8, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2323 9168, urbanoutftters.com * for map go to page 103

VIKTUALIENMARKT 4 · 80331 MÜNCHEN · 089 - 21 580 869

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MUST-HAVE CREATIONS Modern Creation München, or MCM as it’s better known, opened its new fagship boutique in the heart of Munich last September. To celebrate, the German label threw an Oktoberfest-themed party with a range of funfair activities and a traditional brass band. The store, which covers 150 square metres, is inspired by European gardens and

refects the brand’s afnity for animals and nature. Along with MCM’s Heritage line, the boutique will also stock the latest designs and the Munich Lion and Camo Lion range for men. Established in the 1970s during a time of cultural renaissance in Germany, MCM has become the must-have label for modern travellers thanks to its practical business bags, trendy backpacks and chic sets of luggage. th MCM Studio, Brienner Strasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2420 7622, mcmworldwide.com * for map go to page 106

BAGS OF STYLE When designer Etienne Aigner founded his eponymous brand in 1965, the obvious place to base the company was Munich, then one of Germany’s most exciting cities. The luxury leather-goods maker has since expanded into a global lifestyle brand with 400 sales points worldwide. This year marks its 50th anniversary, and to celebrate Aigner has created a limited-edition collection of 50 Cybill bags.

Available in its Munich store, it features exotic leathers such as ostrich (pictured), stingray and alligator. As for its main line, the brand continues to focus on its practical and stylish Travel Collection, with the new Triple Zip bag ofered in blue, pink and taupe. th Etienne Aigner, Theatinerstrasse 45, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 3070 2066, aignermunich.com * for map go to page 106 globalblue.com

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PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

WORLD OF LEICA

FRESH START This season, Prada’s menswear ofering delivers a masterclass in ‘less is more’. Designer Miuccia Prada has adopted a conservative aesthetic, yet with a distinctive freshness derived from its simplicity and formality. An emphasis on clean lines, sharp silhouettes and classic cuts avoids any suggestion of overcomplication and provides a fresh twist on contemporary menswear. However, fner tailoring details such as highlighted stitching and razor-sharp trouser pleats – together with the addition of cross-strap sandals and leather overcoats to the collection – make this one of the most directional looks of the season. rp Prada, Residenzstrasse 10, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 291 9240, prada.com * for map go to page 105 Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 112

Leica’s fagship Munich store ofers the brand’s full range of photography and sport optics products. Experienced members of staf are on hand to provide guidance and demonstrations for photographers looking to buy a Leica camera for the frst time, upgrade to a newer model or expand their collection of lenses and accessories. A new addition to the Leica X family, the X-E model combines technical prowess with an elegant design and makes an ideal travelling companion thanks to its lightweight yet robust metal casing. A fast lens and large sensor with over 16.5 megapixels, combined with a simple operating system, makes this a compact camera capable of capturing detailed images at spontaneous moments. Pay a visit to discover the perfect camera to match your photographic aspirations. gl Leica, Brienner Strasse 7, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2601 0000, leica-camera.com * for map go to page 106

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PLAY IT COOL Housed in the former premises of a carrepair business in Munich’s historic centre, Schwittenberg is a perfect example of the magic that can happen when old and new collide. When founders Sandra Schwittau and Christopher Romberg launched the concept store back in 2011, they marked the occasion with a limited-edition collaboration between cult Danish label Wood Wood and local Munich brand A Kind of Guise. Nowadays, its buyers scour the globe seeking out brands such as Maison Martin Margiela and Acne to provide a unique retail therapy experience in Munich. As well as the hippest menswear and womenswear, the store also sells an edit of homeware, furniture and children’s clothes and toys. th Schwittenberg, Hildegardstrasse 2, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2601 9055, schwittenberg.com * for map go to page 104

I WEAR EYEWEAR The Mondello family has been selling its distinctive frames from a tiny store in Rome since 1975, but now you can get your hands on a pair in Munich, too. Stocked in exclusive optical boutique Noble Optic House, Mondelliani Glasses’ eyewear provides a fun and vibrant way to make a statement. Tapping into the retro trend seen everywhere on the Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 112

catwalks this season, the new range brings to mind the out-there shapes of the 1970s. Each piece is handmade in Italy from the fnest ethically sourced products to ensure it not only looks good, but does good as well. Our top picks for the summer include the Grand Ballon (pictured) and the Tumbler silhouette – both from the Doc Capsule Collection. th Noble Optic House, Maximilianstrasse 34, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 228 5762, mondelliani.it * for map go to page 105

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VIVA VALENTINO Inspired by the historical concept of the Grand Tour, which saw members of high society exploring Europe to soak up the cultural sights and sounds, the spring/summer collection from Valentino referenced the icons of Italy. The intricate forms of the country’s historic architecture were refected in bold forals, while draped gowns were reminiscent of Roman dress. Coastal Italy found expression in motifs of starfsh, shells, ships and underwater creatures, with a seaside theme working comfortably on both formal attire and casualwear. The design team at Valentino has mastered modern femininity, and the skill behind this collection lies in the freshness it creates out of such traditional inspirations.

No summer wardrobe is complete without a dress by Valentino. hl Valentino, Maximilianstrasse 30, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2420 5492, valentino.com * for map go to page 105

When it comes to re-imagining menswear, French design concept SomeThing has a pretty fresh approach. Founded by Philippe Natali, owner of Paris’s No10 showroom, and Franck Pouch, the former creative director of highfashion menswear brand The Individualists, the label mixes traditional menswear with more contemporary casual and streetwearinspired cuts and materials. This season’s collection, called Life on Mars, is inspired by the mysterious nature of space. While the tailoring is sharp and precise, silhouettes are oversized; volume, layers and raw materials are realised in a dark palette, while grungeinspired fnishings also play an integral part inthe collection. rp Pool, Maximilianstrasse 11, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 266035, smthg.fr * for map go to page 105 Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 112

PHOTO (BOTTOM ): © ELODIE CHAPUIS

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Munich is rapidly becoming a hub for contemporary design within Germany, attracting emerging talents and established international brands, says Josh Sims

BLUEPRINT FOR SUCCESS Konstantin Grcic is something of a superstar in the feld of contemporary design. The multiaward winner has created pieces for the likes of Flos, Authentics, Magis and Vitra, among other major manufacturers. Yet rather than working from New York, London or Berlin, the designer is based in Munich. That may be unexpected, were it not for the fact that Stefan

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Diez, another global design hotshot, also has his studio in the city. Indeed, Munich is rapidly becoming Germany’s design hub: expect to hear more of Nitzan Cohen, Stefen Kehrle, Mirko Borsche, Clemens Weisshaar, Michael Geldmacher, Ayzit Bostan and Saskia Diez, all young designers making waves internationally, and all based in the city.

Lef: Konstantin Grcic Lunar architectural lighting for Flos

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‘There are a lot of independent designers working in Munich now,’ says Volker Kastl, a toy, bike-accessories and LED-lighting designer who also runs his own interiors company and shop, Kastl Design. ‘There’s a design college here, which sees a steady stream of new talent, but it’s also not as obvious as Berlin. Berlin is good for fashion, arts and some crafts, but Munich has wealth and a market for sometimes expensive design goods, which in turn is encouraging new designers to set up here.’

And it’s not just emerging talent that has found a home here. Audi and BMW both have design studios in the city, leading international design companies such as Ideo and Frog have also set up here, while Muji chose the city as the location for its frst store in Germany.

Infuential lighting company and shop Ingo Maurer launched in Munich during the 1960s and its designs can be seen in many of the city’s major buildings and underground stations.

Above (from top): Ingo Maurer’s Munich showroom; designer Konstantin Grcic

PHOTO: JAMES HARRIS

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The company’s designer Axel Schmid notes how ‘awareness of design and design quality has defnitely increased here over recent years – and that’s encouraging the opening of both design shops and shops selling items of a more functional quality’.

Design stores are indeed found in every corner of the city. Among the fnest general design stores are Magazin, which ofers modern German design items; Haidhausen’s 1260 Grad, which specialises in ceramics; Koton and Thiersch 15, both home-furnishing stores in the Lehel area; stationery experts Semikolon and Carta Pura; and Kustermann, one of the city’s most established stores, which can trace its history back to 1798.

Above (clockwise from lef): Konstantin Grcic’s design ofce in Munich; Heckhaus’s interior for Fitness First Black Label Club on Marienplatz; Volker Kastl side table

PHOTO: PETERNEUSSER.DE

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This list looks set to grow. ‘After all, the history of Munich suggests a culture of design here which is gathering momentum in a way that makes it a place that’s highly regarded for its design creativity, and not just the business of design at the corporate level,’ argues Alexandra Dimitrijevic, spokesperson for Munich-based design agency Heckhaus.

The frm has recently worked on the Fitness First Black Label Club on Marienplatz, as well as a new store concept for interiors and accessories brand Domicil, and it also regularly leads projects alongside the Designschule München (Munich school of design).

Munich Creative Business Week, which takes place in late February, was established

Design stores are found in every corner of the city, and the list of names looks set to keep on growing

PHOTO: © PETERNEUSSER.DE

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as recently as 2012, but has already become one of Germany’s largest design events and one of growing international importance.

It’s an opportunity for the German design industry to gather while also ofering events open to the public. Many of the city’s shops take part, running satellite events.

‘The design economy is very strong in Germany – there is a long tradition of product design and manufacture in the country – but events like this are encouraging more companies to compete on design quality rather than price, which is getting harder,’ says Kilian Steiner, spokesman for Bayern Design, creators of Munich Creative Business Week. ‘Of course, Berlin is cool. But product design is complex and requires Munich’s more businesslike approach.’

A new programme to encourage young creatives can only further underscore Munich’s status as a design hub

Above (clockwise from lef): Heckhaus recently worked on a new store concept for Domicil; Design Vision, the striking wall at the entrance to Munich’s Die Neue Sammlung’s permanent exhibition; Konstantin Grcic Chair One for Magis

PHOTO: RAINER VIERTLBÖCK

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English Pull Quote Russian Pull Quote Chinese Pull Quote

This year, Bayern Design is launching a new programme to help young designers set up their frst businesses, agencies or shops, which will, in time, further underscore Munich’s status as a design hub. But the city’s design credentials are already clear. Take, for example, the city’s Pinakothek der Moderne, a showcase of design, graphics and related arts, or Die Neue Sammlung, Munich’s international design museum, with its collection of modern artefacts curated by Florian Hufnagl. The two are increasingly regarded as important national institutions and both are helping to cement Munich’s place on the international design scene konstantin-grcic.com, stefan-diez.com, kastldesign.de, ingo-maurer.com, heckhaus.de, mcbw.de, bayern-design.de

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COLOUR MAGIC To celebrate the launch of the spring/summer 2015 collection, and an intriguing new capsule range, Sally McIlhone caught up with Escada’s Daniel Wingate

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E

scada is a brand synonymous with sporty elegance. Indeed, it was under this concept that the label’s founders, Wolfgang and Margaretha Ley, showcased their frst collection in 1978. Over 35 years later, after launching sister line Escada Sport, a range of fragrances, homeware, accessories and, most recently, a watch and jewellery line, the German company remains one of the key players on the international fashion stage.

The current fashion director, Daniel Wingate, joined Escada as a senior designer in 2004 and has applied the decade of knowledge he’s gained at the label to his bold yet refned spring/summer 2015 collection. After 10 years at the same brand, some designers might fnd their fount of inspiration drying up. Not Wingate. He is still overfowing with ideas thanks to his passion for international exploration. ‘I fnd inspiration in many things, but mostly by travelling and experiencing new cultures, foods and languages,’ the designer admits. ‘For spring/summer 2015 the inspiration is fowers – what I call my botanical beauties.’ From jewel-toned gowns, jumpsuits

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Previous: Escada meets Thilo Westermann capsule collection 2015

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and cropped satin trousers to foral-printed blazers and shorts, the latest Escada collection continues the house’s prestigious tradition of luxurious chic, while slipping in a few contemporary surprises.

Escada’s recent revitalisation is partly thanks to Wingate’s eforts (with full support from chairwoman and managing director Megha Mittal, someone the designer regularly cites as a perfect example of the Escada woman). In addition to the latest collection, this spring the brand is launching an exciting capsule collection: Escada meets Thilo Westermann. Taking the young German artist’s Vanitas series of paintings as its starting point, the brand has applied pointillist-style fower patterns and graphic designs to a stunning evening gown, a blazer Previous (from top): Escada spring/summer 2015; the brand’s creative director Daniel Wingate

Wingate is still overflowing with ideas thanks to his passion for international exploration

Above: artist Thilo Westermann

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S H O P | 77

and a coordinated trouser and top, among other garments. The level of artistry involved in Westermann’s work is extraordinary – each of his paintings is composed of individual hand-rendered dots – and Wingate is so proud of this collaboration that he cites the showstopping Orchid dress as his favourite look from his spring/summer 2015 designs.

Originally from Florida in the USA, Wingate names his mother as his frst fashion icon. ‘My mother was always very fashion conscious, and I think I got the fashion bug from her,’ he explains. ‘I thought at frst I wanted to be an interior designer, but in the end got accepted to Parsons in New York and chose fashion.’

Above (from lef): Thilo Westermann, Vanitas (Vanda Coerulea) (detail 1), 2012 artwork; Daniel Wingate’s favourite piece from the Escada meets Thilo Westermann collection, the Orchid dress

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Following his studies at the prestigious New York clothing-design school, Wingate then spent time at Geofrey Beene and Hugo Boss before joining Escada. After a decade with the brand Wingate still ‘feels great’ about his involvement and the new projects he takes on each season. ‘Although time goes by so fast, and fashion does as well. I would say the biggest change for fashion [in the past 10 years] has been the internet: information is faster, and stores are now open 24 hours worldwide.

It’s amazing,’ Wingate continues.

Though Escada currently has no plans to move into menswear, Wingate himself is, of course, always impeccably turned out. So what are his essential components to creating a suave look? ‘I like a good cologne, a perfectly cut suit or jacket, and shoes are very important. I love

sneakers, but also classic English brogues which have been made by hand.’ With his passion for casual as well as chic footwear, Wingate shows that, like Escada, he isn’t afraid to give a sporty spin to a tailored look. In terms of style

Above (from lef): Escada meets Thilo Westermann capsule collection 2015; the brand’s spring/summer 2015 collection (both)

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Much like its colourful spring collection, the future for Escada is bright

rules, Wingate puts an emphasis on ‘grooming, good hair and good teeth’ but also on being true to your own look. ‘Invest in quality.

Know the trends, but don’t be too trendy and know yourself and what looks good on you.’

There is one exception to this rule, however – Wingate draws the line at ‘anything with a skull on it’, a fashion motif he would ban if he had the power.

Much like its colourful spring collection, the future for Escada is bright. Wingate is most excited about the collaboration with Nymphenburg porcelain for autumn/winter 2015/16: something to keep an eye out for once summer is over. Given that the two brands are headquartered in Munich, this style union makes perfect sense and, thanks to their combined history, a stunning product range is sure to await.

With his vision to make Escada ‘joyful, daring, individual, luxurious and contagious’, Wingate is most defnitely succeeding escada.com

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BRIGHT Germany’s up-and-coming fashion labels are disregarding the country’s classic minimalism in favour of playful prints, says Verity Hogan

YOUNG German fashion has long been characterised in the popular imagination by the purism pioneered by labels such as Jil Sander.

Minimalism, drapery, asymmetry and block colours have come to defne the country’s fashion looks despite the fact that every

German city has its own sense of style.

Functional fashion is the stereotype, the only concession being sport-luxe labels that ofer a more relaxed look. However, in recent years Germany’s home-grown talents have been moving away from this categorisation and

THINGS

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PHOTO: SCHAH-PHOTOGRAPHY

of vibrant prints, and for spring/summer 2015 the collection’s colour scheme and prints take cues from abstract paintings and out-of-focus photographs, while pleats and two-tone leather add texture.

Their home town provides inspiration.

‘Berlin is great; it’s easy, young and cool.

It’s new. It doesn’t care about traditions and

embracing a more playful aesthetic, taking inspiration from other cultures as well as urban street style.

Antonia Goy is one of the best-known labels emerging from Germany. Designers Antonia Goy and Björn Kubeja produce pieces that reference classic German minimalism while adding an unexpected twist through the choice of materials and structure. The pair eschews bold block colours in favour

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Germany’s style signature looks set to become a lot less serious Previous page: Cneeon spring/summer 2015

PHOTO: SCHAH-PHOTOGRAPHY

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restrictions. Berlin tries to fnd its own way in a modern age,’ says Goy. ‘And that is, of course, very inspiring for us.’ The designers describe the city’s typical style as ‘casual: jeans, sneakers and a T-shirt’, and it’s this spirit of ‘anything goes’ that is being refected in the fashion scene. ‘[In Berlin] it’s not about a certain brand, it’s more about being one’s self.’

Doreen Schulz and Clara Leskovar of Cneeon prefer to see their work as the antithesis Above (all): Antonia Goy spring/summer 2015

of their surroundings. ‘We like to wear colourful clothes. Berlin is really a grey city for many months a year. So it’s nice to create something that is a counterpoint,’ explains Schulz. The label is known for its prints, and this season one of the collection’s highlights is a standout T-shirt dress which features an ultraviolet reactive screen print that changes colour from mint green to blue. ‘We like the idea of sitting on an underground train

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wearing an almost uniform coloured dress and then stepping outside and the colour changing to a bright blue,’ says Leskovar.

Cneeon’s characterful printed pieces have wide appeal. ‘It is sometimes a little surprising to see how diferent our customers are. We see elegant women, younger girls and older ladies wearing our pieces, especially the colourful scarves,’ says Schulz.

Âme Soeur’s kaleidoscopic prints and architectural shapes have a similarly wide reach, having been embraced by trendsetters of every imaginable type. The label is the creation of another duo, the Taschén sisters Madina and Sabina who are known for their love of vibrant print and their innovative ‘one-cut piece’ concept, for which items are constructed from one piece of fabric. ‘A typical Âme Soeur wearer is not defned by age, but rather by a deep understanding and knowledge

The fashion scene that is represented by these labels is anything but minimalist

Above (from lef): Cneeon designers Doreen Schulz and Clara Leskovar; the brand’s spring/summer 2015 collection

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of fashion. She is not afraid of standing out and setting a fashion statement,’ says Madina.

For spring/summer 2015, Âme Soeur’s collection takes inspiration from the world of comic-book heroes and villains, which makes a striking contrast to the humour-free aesthetic often associated with German fashion. ‘The good thing about Berlin is that it has so many styles,’ explains Madina. ‘But I guess the most typical is the “I couldn’t care less” style. You can put anything on without people staring and judging.’

The distinctive character of German cities has a subliminal impact on the pair’s designs.

‘Berlin is our favourite city to live in. We love its tolerance, wildness, diversity and beauty,’ says Madina. ‘I guess when you are happy and enjoy living in a city as much as we love living in Berlin you are automatically inspired by many small things in your surroundings.’

The fashion scene represented by these labels is one that is anything but minimalist.

Principles regarded as typically German, such

as structured form, are providing a base for experimentation. Colour, print and playful motifs are commonplace among Germany’s new fashion generation. And it’s proving to be a winning formula: Âme Soeur is planning to extend its range to include an accessories line, and Antonia Goy is about to launch an online store as well as undertaking a number of industry collaborations.

From superhero-inspired collections with kaleidoscopic prints to innovative colourAbove (both): Âme Soeur spring/summer 2015

changing pieces that act as an antidote to grey days, Germany’s up-and-coming designer labels are embracing an exuberant colour palette and adding a touch of fun to fashion.

It’s an approach that has widespread appeal and one that refects the diverse character of the country’s cities. As this aesthetic continues to attract international attention, Germany’s style signature looks set to become a lot less serious antoniagoy.com, cneeon.com, amesoeurfashion.com

PHOTOS: ANNA DAKI

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THE WORLD’S LARGEST MEN’S FASHION STORE

In the heart of Munich HIRMER offers fashion highlights spread over 9,000 m2 of shopping experience. On 6 foors you will fnd the entire world of menswear with all leading brands:

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HIRMER GmbH & Co. KG I Kaufngerstraße 28 I 80331 München Phone: + 49 89 236830 I www.hirmer-muenchen.de Opening hours: Mo. til Fr.: 9.30 a. m. til 8 p. m. I Sa.: 9 a. m. til 8 p. m.

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TABLE TALK Munich’s restaurant scene combines comfort with cosmopolitan fair, explains Isabella Redmond Styles

It’s almost impossible, and certainly not advisable, to visit Munich and fail to sample some Bavarian cuisine. Central to it is the wurst, or sausage, which is served in a staggering variety of forms from the popular bratwurst, usually made of spiced and seasoned pork, to the local specialities of weisswurst (veal and pork sausage) and blutwurst (blood sausage).

For a more substantial meal, diners can expect a hearty helping of dumplings, often flled with meat, perhaps followed by a dish of Schweinshaxe, a sizeable roasted pork knuckle or ham hock.

While its Bavarian restaurants are a must, Munich is also known for its cosmopolitan fare and ample supply of excellent international restaurants, so it’s easy to balance the comfort of the local cuisine with aromatic quinoa salads, wood-fred pizzas and freshly flled pasta. globalblue.com

S H O P | 89

OCCAM DELI This chic Schwabing deli, with its industrial chic interior and exposed brick walls, is as popular for its buzzing restaurant as it is for its stock of speciality foods. Relax over a meal that makes good use of the deli’s ample supply of fne-quality ingredients in dishes such quinoa salad with pistachio and orange or Bresaola ravioli. Don’t leave without picking up a few culinary essentials: anything from Maldon sea salt to homemade granola.

Occam Deli, Feilitzschstrasse 15, 80802 Munich, +49 (0)89 3834 6346, occamdeli.com

90 | E X P E R I E N C E

THE FLUSHING M E A DOWS

PHOTO: RAINER SCHMIDT

The rooftop bar at the recently opened Flushing Meadows boutique hotel is already a favourite haunt of Munich’s hippest residents thanks to its combination of potent cocktails, tasty snacks, and views of the city and far-of

Alps. Hang out with the city’s in-crowd as you work your way through the food menu, which includes plenty of pizzas made in the bar’s wood-burning oven.

The Flushing Meadows Bar, Fraunhoferstrasse 32, 80469 Munich, +49 (0)89 5527 91727, fushingmeadowshotel.com

PFISTERMÜHLE Pfstermühle’s vaulted dining room provides an elegant setting for a menu of Bavarian cuisine and Franconian wines. The historic restaurant is located in the former mill that dates back to 1543, and is a deservedly popular spot. The menu is largely local and seasonal, with lamb and poultry from the nearby Polting globalblue.com

estate and beef from Siegertsbrunn farm just outside Munich. When in season, the game, such as a whole roast saddle of venison or venison ragout, is a highlight. For a typically Bavarian meal, order the homemade blackpudding sausages which are served with cabbage and cubed potato.

Pfstermühle, Pfsterstrasse 4, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2370 3865, pfstermuehle.de

PHOTO: RAINER SCHMIDT

S H O P | 91

GEORGEN HOF Georgenhof’s typical all-day Bavarian fare – mostly made with ingredients sourced within the region – has been attracting people for decades. If you don’t fancy heartier dishes such as the pork and the famous roast duck, lighter bites include baked brie with homemade bread and warm goats’ cheese globalblue.com

tart with a seasonal herb salad. The desserts are also hard to resist; the caramelised Kaiserschmarrn (shredded fufy pancakes) and the apple pancakes baked in Augustiner beer batter with cinnamon sugar and vanilla ice cream are unmissable.

Georgenhof, Friedrichstrasse 1, 80801 Munich, +49 (0)89 3407 7691, georgenhof-muenchen.de

92 | E X P E R I E N C E

STAY IN STYLE

PHOTO: LIGHTTRAPPER PHOTOGRAPHY

The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

THE GREYHOUND ON THE TEST Set on a quintessentially English high street, the Greyhound on the Test ofers the perfect antidote to city life. The seven individually decorated bedrooms feature soothing colour palettes, extremely comfortable beds and locally produced lavender toiletries. Be sure to dine at the in-house restaurant; the acclaimed globalblue.com

menu is based on high-quality British produce which is simply prepared to bring out the ingredients’ natural favours. Breakfast is similarly impressive – the classic full English comes highly recommended.

The Greyhound on the Test, 31 High Street, Stockbridge, Hampshire SO20 6EY, +44 (0)1264 810833, thegreyhoundonthetest.co.uk

PHOTO: JESPER RAIS

S H O P | 93

HOTEL SKT PETRI Set just fve minutes from Strøget, Copenhagen’s famous shopping street, Hotel Skt Petri is one of the city’s most centrally located hotels. Found in the up-and-coming Latinekvarteret (Latin Quarter), the hotel is surrounded by a number of independent boutiques and eateries. Minimalist décor

can be found throughout the interior while shared amenities include two restaurants and the popular Bar Rouge. For a truly luxurious experience book the standout Star Suite with an expansive terrace and two bathrooms equipped with showers, Jacuzzis and saunas.

Hotel Skt Petri, Krystalgade 22, 1172 Copenhagen, +45 3345 9100, sktpetri.com

94 | E X P E R I E N C E

HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE Overlooking Lake Geneva and the Jet d’Eau, Geneva’s Hotel d’Angleterre is regarded as one of Europe’s fnest fve-star hotels. Known for ofering impeccable service, the hotel strikes the perfect balance between old-world charm and 21st century technology. Its 39 rooms and globalblue.com

suites feature individual designs, with cleverly concealed modern amenities; many rooms also enjoy panoramic views of the lake and Mont Blanc. Be sure to dine at the hotel’s restaurant, Windows, which combines fne dining and an exemplary wine list with breathtaking scenery.

Hotel d’Angleterre, 17 quai du Mont-Blanc, 1201 Geneva, +41 (0)22 906 5522, dangleterrehotel.com

S H O P | 95

HTL KUNGSGATAN When visiting Stockholm for a shopping trip, the centrally located HTL Kungsgatan is the ideal place in which to stay. The hotel’s interior is modern and minimalist while staf members are endlessly accommodating. Start the day by selecting from the breakfast bufet and

return to the hotel’s restaurant for dinner; the charcuterie plate, fsh soup and minute steaks are menu highlights. On warmer days, enjoy a glass of Cava at the al fresco lounge bar while listening to a playlist of northern soul.

HTL Kungsgatan, Kungsgatan 53, 111 22 Stockholm, +46 (0)8 4108 4150, htlhotels.com

G U I D E | 97

GUIDE

PHOTO: © GNTB/ANDREW COWIN

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Munich with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the best boutiques to relaxing leisure facilities. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/munich.

A GLIMPSE OF MUNICH Above: the Müller‘sches Volksbad, opened in 1901, is one of Munich’s best and most beautiful swimming pools

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Ingo Maurer Discover Munich’s illustrious design pedigree at the Ingo Maurer showroom.

Ingo Maurer, Kaiserstrasse 47, 80801 Munich, +49 (0)89 3816 0691, ingo-maurer.com featured on page 62

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MCM Studio Get to know Munich’s fabulous luxury leather-goods brand MCM, which stands for Modern Creation München.

MCM Studio, Brienner Strasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2420 7622, mcmworldwide.com featured on page 55

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SomeThing Add a touch of Gallic cool to your wardrobe with some help from French menswear label SomeThing.

Pool, Maximilianstrasse 11, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 266035, smthg.fr featured on page 60

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Ludwig Beck, Marienplatz 11, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 236910, ludwigbeck.de featured on page 50

Saint Laurent Work this season’s 1970s trend with a little help from Saint Laurent’s rock ‘n’ roll inspired collection.

Saint Laurent, Maximilian Strasse 24, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 9699 7990, ysl.com featured on page 52

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Café and roastery Man Versus Machine has brought the art of the perfect cup of cofee to Munich. With a commitment to sustainability and fairness, the company sources its beans from Central America, Kenya and Ethiopia; these are then roasted in-house on a German-built Probat machine. The cool, contemporary interior, by local furniture designer Thomas Kandler, features Artek furnishings created in collaboration with Man Versus Machine.

It’s the ideal setting in which to linger over a top-quality cofee, accompanied by some of the café’s equally delicious vegetarian snacks.

Man Versus Machine, Müllerstrasse 23, 80469 Munich, mvsm-cofee.com

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Small Seconds Bucherer Edition. In white gold and with a 1960s convex design, the watch is inspired by H Moser & Cie’s historic pocket watches. Be sure to seek out this watch while in Munich, as it is available exclusively in Bucherer boutiques in Germany, Switzerland and Austria.

Bucherer, Neuhauser Strasse 2, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 298283, bucherer.com

Heritage watchmaker H Moser & Cie and fne jeweller Bucherer have a lot in common. These independent companies from German-speaking areas of Switzerland were founded in the 19th century and so it is natural that they are long-time collaborators.

Their most recent project – an addition to the existing Venturer line – is the Venturer

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DOMICIL

now works with a diverse group of designers to create furniture that’s both innovative and striking.

Domicil, Brienner Strasse 12, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 6066 6310, domicilishome.com

PHOTO: PETERNEUSSER.DE

A long-established German interiors brand, Domicil has played a key part in creating some of the most stylish homes across the globe. Set up by creative trio Brigitta Jaeggle, Armin Eberlein and Hans Dahme, the brand

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WEMPE Wempe is on a mission to keep watch lovers happy with the latest addition to its Zeitmeister line. The new fagship style, the Wempe Zeitmeister Glashütte i/SA Chronograph Mondphase Vollkalender, combines two of the most popular horological features of previous styles, a chronograph and a full calendar including moon phase rank to chart the lunar cycle.

Other highlights include a 24-hour display and a pleasingly practical date display made up of a circle of dates that surrounds the dial. Once completed, each timepiece must undergo a rigorous 15-day testing procedure and is approved only if it reaches Wempe’s exacting standards.

Wempe, Maximilianstrasse 10, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 291299, wempe.de

Global Blue Retailer Featured In This Issue

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MONTBLANC Inspired by the free-spirited women of today, Montblanc’s Bohème Collection is elegant yet distinctive. Encapsulating the company’s watchmaking expertise in a feminine style, the Bohème has a self-winding calibre and date or perpetual calendar. In addition to the diamond dial, the standout feature is the bi-coloured leather wristband, which gives a playful nod to this season’s colour-blocking trend.

Montblanc, Maximilianstrasse 14, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2554 6706, montblanc.com

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106 | G U I D E 1. Dante-Winter-Warmfreibad The Dante-Winter-Warmfreibad is the only outdoor swimming bath that’s open all year round, thanks to a balmy water temperature of around 30 degrees Celsius. There’s also a wellness pool and sauna.

Dante-Winter-Warmfreibad, Postillonstrasse 17, 80637 Munich, +49 (0)89 23610, swm.de

MUNICH’S BEST SWIMMING POOLS 3

PHOTO: JORGE ROYAN

2. Naturbad Maria Einsiedel The joy of the Naturbad Maria Einsiedel ecological swimming pool is its chemical-free waters, which are partly made up by the river Isar and kept clean by naturally occurring microorganisms.

Naturbad Maria Einsiedel, Zentralländstrasse 28, 81379 Munich, +49 (0)89 23610, swm.de 3. Müller’sches Volksbad When the weather isn’t great, enjoy a dip in Munich’s glorious indoor Müller’sches Volksbad swimming pool – the magnificent art nouveau décor more than makes up for the lack of sunshine.

Müller’sches Volksbad, Rosenheimer Strasse 1, 81667 Munich, +49 (0)89 23610, swm.de

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Place Of Interest

S H O P | 107

ROECKL Munich-based Roeckl’s exquisite accessories are an essential for every season. The familyrun company, which has been in operation since 1839, is known for its beautifully made leather gloves and silk scarves. The latter are a summer staple and this season’s, which feature foral watercolours with a digital twist, are better than ever. Pair with a crisp white shirt for maximum impact.

Roeckl, Mafeistrasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2916 8239, roeckl.com

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INGOLSTADT VILLAGE

Ingolstadt Village, located less than an hour from both Munich and Nuremberg, plays host to more than 110 luxury brand boutiques. Both German and international brands are represented, with savings of up to 60% available throughout the Village.

Ingolstadt Village’s design takes inspiration from its surroundings; Bavaria’s evocative 19th-century textile mills are refected in its warm colour schemes and art nouveau motifs.

DON’T MISS…

Five-Star Services The village ofers a range of VIP services including: • • • • •

Free Wi-Fi Free Parking A personal shopper (on request) Children’s play area Electric car charging station

globalblue.com

Ingolstadt Village, Otto-Hahn-Strasse 1, 85055 Ingolstadt, +49 (0)841 886 3100, ingolstadtvillage.com, chicoutletshopping.com Opening times Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sunday and public holidays: closed

Shopping Packages Various packages are available at the Village and can be booked via the Village’s website. Services include: • Return tickets from central Frankfurt to the village on the Shopping Express® luxury coach • A €25 Ingolstadt Village Shopping Card to be spent at a boutique of your choice at the Village • An exclusive gift • Lunch with small soft drink at Stiftl restaurant at the Village

S H O P | 109

PERFECT DAY

Daria Orlova, SHOP’s associate Russian editor, describes her perfect day at Ingolstadt Village

Start the day at Liebeskind Berlin.

The company is known for its innovative designs and use of highquality materials.

By Shopping Express®

12pm

2pm

Take a break at the cosy, colonial-style Stiftl restaurant, which serves typically Bavarian fare such as pork medallions in pepper sauce with vegetables and potato gratin.

Christ’s 150 years of experience is evident in its exquisite fnejewellery collection, ofered alongside a range of timepieces by brands such as Raymond Weil and Jacques Lemans.

6pm

4pm

Rosenthal is one of the world’s leading producers of contemporary porcelain, bone china, glass and tableware, all made to impeccably high standards.

Prepare for summer by picking up some stylish beachwear from La Perla. The Italian label’s quality, design and functionality are among the best.

End your day with a visit to culinary specialist Le Creuset, which ofers colourful cookware.

By Car From Munich take the A9 to junction Ingolstadt-Ost (exit 61) and from the exit follow the signs to Ingolstadt Village.

10am

7pm

HOW TO GET THERE

The Shopping Express® luxury coach service runs from central Munich to Ingolstadt Village daily.

For further information and to book, visit chicoutletshopping.com.

By Train Ingolstadt has a central train station with an InterCity train connection and is the main hub for trains running to Munich, Nuremberg, Augsburg, Ulm and Regensburg.

There are regular connecting public coach services to Ingolstadt Village from IngolstadtNord and Ingolstadt central station.

By Bus From Munich airport, take the Ingolstadt Airport Express to Ingolstadt Village.

From Ingolstadt central station, take bus 10 to Brückenkopf, then change to line 20.

110 | G U I D E

OUTLETCITY METZINGEN PERFECT DAY 10am

PHOTO: JOHANNES VOGT

Start your day perusing the sportswear on ofer at Peak Performance; the label is known for combining functionality and style.

12pm Take a break at Keim Bakery to enjoy everything from cofee and cake to a freshly made sandwich.

2pm The ready-to-wear collection on ofer at Hugo Boss strikes the perfect balance between fashion and functionality.

Outletcity Metzingen, Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen, +49 (0)7123 925326, outletcity.com Opening times Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm Saturday: 9am-8pm (Hugo Boss 8am-8pm)

6pm 4pm Diane von Furstenberg produces classic, feminine pieces which exude elegance – the designer’s printed wrap dress is an iconic wardrobe piece.

globalblue.com

End your trip at Samsonite. This esteemed luggage manufacturer is known for ofering quality, durability and surprisingly lightweight suitcases.

HOW TO GET THERE Enter Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen on your satellite navigation system.

Drive north-west out of Munich on the A8 towards Augsburg and Stuttgart. Leave the A8 at the Merklingen exit, following signs for Münsingen. Turn right on the L230, follow the road for 6km and turn left onto the B28 towards Reutlingen. Follow this street for 30km.

Outletcity Metzingen is clearly signposted when you arrive in the town.

SHOPPING IS 19% BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE.

Join Global Blue for free, explore your city, ďŹ nd the best stores, and save up to 19% on everything you buy. globalblue.com/join

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When you shop the world, shop tax free Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

2. Claim When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.

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Refund Ofce details:

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Munich Airport: Terminal 1, Departures, Level 4 Terminal 2, Departures, Level 4 Terminal 2, Transit, Level 5

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Downtown Munich: Karstadt, Bahnhofplatz 7 Oberpollinger, Neuhauser Strasse 44 Galeria Kaufof, Kaufngerstrasse 1-5

购物时节省 高达19%， 享受免税购 物的卓越。

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TRANSLATIONS

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 62: Blueprint For Success

На пути к успеху Мюнхен стремительно превращается в крупный центр современного немецкого дизайна, привлекая все новые таланты и знаменитые международные бренды, – говорит Джош Симс globalblue.com

Константин Грчич своего рода суперзвезда в области современного дизайна. Он является обладателем многочисленных наград, а его работы раскупают такие компании, как Flos, Authentics, Magis и Vitra. Но, не смотря на свою популярность, дизайнер не уехал в Нью-Йорк, Лондон или Берлин, а продолжает жить и работать в Мюнхене. Для кого-то такое решение может показаться довольно странным, однако не

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стоит забывать, что студия Стефана Диеза, другого всемирно известного маэстро дизайна, также расположена в Мюнхене. И это не удивительно, ведь Мюнхен стремительно набирает статус дизайнерской столицы Германии: еще немного и весь мир услышит о таких именах, как Нитцан Коэн, Штеффен Керле, Мирко Борше, Клеменс Вайсхар, Михаэль Гельдмахер, Асцит Бостан и Саския Диез, – все они молодые таланты, ожидающие своего звездного часа.

«На сегодняшний день в Мюнхене представлено значительное количество независимых дизайнеров», – говорит Фолькер Кастл, занимающийся дизайном игрушек, велоаксессуаров и светодиодных светильников. Ему также принадлежит дизайнерская студия Kastl Design. «У нас имеется свой колледж дизайна, ежегодно выпускающий новых специалистов, хотя и не так много, как в Берлине, но тем не менее. Берлин отлично подходит для тех,

кто занимается модой, искусством или прикладными ремеслами, однако в Мюнхене сосредоточено больше денежных средств и рынков сбыта для порой недешевых дизайнерских изделий, что в свою очередь привлекает сюда все больше новых дизайнеров». Свое пристанище здесь находят не только новые таланты. В Мюнхене расположены дизайнерские студии многих автомобильных гигантов, включая Audi и BMW, и таких корпораций, как Ideo и Frog. Бренд Muji открыл здесь свой первый в Германии магазин, а крупный производитель осветительного оборудования Ingo Maurer, основанный в 1960 году, разместил здесь свою штабквартиру. Дизайнер компании Аксель Шмид отмечает, что «дизайн стал играть более весомую роль в обществе и за последние несколько лет перешел на качественно новый уровень. Это воодушевляет многих на открытие магазинов и салонов интерьера». Такие магазины и правда, можно встретить в любом уголке города. К числу самых примечательных можно отнести: Magazin, где предлагают современные предметы интерьера в немецком стиле; Haidhausen’s 1260 Grad, специализирующийся на керамике; Koton и Tiersch 15 – мебельные салоны в районе Lehel; магазины канцелярских товаров Semikolon и Carta Pura; и, наконец, Kustermann – один из наиболее известных в городе магазинов, основанный еще в 1798 году. И, похоже, что этот список постоянно растет. «В конце концов, история Мюнхена имеет тесную связь с культурой дизайна и город по праву можно считать одним из центров именно креативного дизайна, а не только лишь дизайна, ориентированного на бизнес и корпоративную сферу», – утверждает Александра Димитриевич, пресс-секретарь мюнхенской студии дизайна Heckhaus. Недавно ее компания принимала участие в проектировании спортзала Fitness First Black Label Club на Мариенплац и разрабатывала концепцию нового магазина интерьеров и аксессуаров

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для бренда Domicil. Кроме того студия участвует в регулярных дизайнерских проектах совместно с мюнхенской школой дизайна Designschule München. Мероприятие Munich Creative Business Week, проходящее здесь ежегодно в конце февраля, стало проводиться относительно недавно – с 2012 года, однако уже успело стать одним из крупнейших дизайнерских событий Германии, притягивая все большее внимание мировой общественности. Это прекрасная возможность для консолидации немецкой индустрии дизайна и привлечения к ней широкой публики. В мероприятии принимают участие множество городских студий и салонов, которые параллельно проводят свои мини-выставки. «Экономика дизайна в Германии достаточно сильная и традиции производства предметов интерьера уходят корнями в глубокое прошлое, но подобные мероприятия и выставки заставляют все больше компаний соревноваться в качестве продукции, нежели в ценах, которые, к слову, становятся все более стабильными», – говорит Килиан Штайнер, пресс-секретарь Bayern Design – компании-основателя Munich Creative Business Week. «Несомненно, Берлин великолепен. Но сфера дизайна достаточно комплексная и требует «мюнхенского» делового подхода». В этом году Bayern Design запускает новую программу помощи молодым дизайнерам, впервые открывающим свое дело. Организаторы уверены, что такие меры со временем принесут для города положительные результаты. Однако уже сейчас успехи Мюнхена достаточно заметны. Взять, к примеру, музей дизайна и графики Pinakothek der Moderne или международный мюнхенский музей дизайна Die Neue Sammlung с его коллекциями современных артефактов, собранных куратором Флорианом Хуфнаглем. Оба музея имеют важное национальное значение и помогают Мюнхену занять прочную позицию на международной арене дизайна. konstantin-grcic.com, stefan-diez.com, kastldesign.de, ingo-maurer.com, heckhaus.de, mcbw.de, bayern-design.de globalblue.com

70: Colour Magic

Магия красок

По случаю презентации новой коллекции Escada весна-лето 2015 Салли МакИлхоун взяла интервью у дизайнера марки Даниэля Уингейта Бренд Escada для многих стал синонимом спортивной элегантности. Именно так его охарактеризовали в 1978 году, когда основатели Вольфган и Маргарита Лэй продемонстрировали свою первую коллекцию. За 35 лет существования у бренда появилась новая линия женской одежды Escada Sport, а также серии ароматов, предметов интерьера, аксессуаров и ювелирных украшений, и все это время

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немецкая компания оставалась одним из ключевых игроков на международной арене моды. Главный дизайнер Escada Даниэль Уингейт присоединился к компании в 2004 году и вложил в свою смелую, но изысканную коллекцию весна-лето 2015 весь свой десятилетний опыт. После декады работы в одном и том же направлении некоторые дизайнеры замечают, что их вдохновение начинает иссякать. Но только не в случае с Уингейтом. Благодаря увлечению путешествиями по миру его ум переполняют новые идеи. «Я нахожу вдохновение во многих вещах, но в первую очередь в путешествиях и знакомстве с новыми культурами, едой и языками», – признает дизайнер. «Источником

вдохновения для коллекции весна-лето 2015 стали цветы или как я их называю – мои ботанические прелести. Последняя коллекция Escada, куда вошли яркие платья, комбинезоны, укороченные атласные брюки, а также пиджаки и шорты в цветочный принт, получилась традиционно роскошной и как всегда радующей приятными сюрпризами. Недавнее возрождение бренда отчасти состоялось благодаря непосредственным усилиям Уингейта и, конечно, не без поддержки председателя и управляющей компании Мегхи Миттал, которую дизайнер считает идеальным примером женщины Escada. В дополнение к своей последней коллекции, этой весной марка представит потрясающую капсульную коллекцию в сотрудничестве с Тило Вестерманном. Цветочные узоры в стиле пуантилизма и графические рисунки молодого немецкого художника стали основой для создания шикарных вечерних платьев, пиджаков и брюк. Уровень мастерства Вестерманна необычаен, каждая из его работ составлена из раздельных точечных мазков. Уингейт особенно гордится сотрудничеством с художником, а фаворитом коллекции весналето 2015 он считает сногсшибательное платье Orchid. Уингейт родился в американском штате Флорида, а своим первым кумиром моды дизайнер считает свою мать. «Моя мама всегда старалась шагать в ногу с модными тенденциями, и мне кажется, что я многое унаследовал от нее, – поясняет он. – Поначалу мне хотелось заниматься дизайном интерьеров, но после того, как меня приняли на обучение в Parsons в НьюЙорке, я остановил свой выбор на моде». После обучения в престижном дизайнерском колледже Нью-Йорка Уингейту удалось поработать в таких компаниях, как Geofrey Beene и Hugo Boss, после чего его пригласили в Escada. Спустя десятилетие непрерывной работы в компании Уингейт все так же полон энергии и оптимизма, и с большим удовольствием принимается за новые проекты. «Время неумолимо летит вперед,

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как и мировая мода. За последние несколько лет мода сильно изменилась и причиной тому является интернет: информация стала распространяться в мгновение ока, а виртуальные магазины, доступные практически любому жителю планеты, работают круглыми сутками. Это не может не впечатлять», – продолжает Уингейт. В настоящее время Escada не выпускает мужской одежды, однако это не мешает Уингейту всегда выглядеть с иголочки. В чем же секрет его изысканного образа? «Главными составляющими для меня являются хороший одеколон, идеально подобранный костюм или пиджак, ну и, конечно же, обувь. Мне нравятся как кеды, так и классические английские броги ручной работы». Смелым подходом к выбору одежды Уингейт, как, впрочем, и сама марка Escada, демонстрирует готовность к творческим экспериментам. Что касается правил стиля, то основной акцент дизайнер делает на «уходе за собой, своей прической и зубами», а также на естественности образа. «Уделяйте внимание качеству. Следите за модными трендами, но не увлекайтесь ими чересчур, и, наконец, постарайтесь изучить себя и понять, что вам действительно к лицу». Лишь одно исключение допускает дизайнер из этих правил, а именно все, что связано с изображениями черепов. По словам Уингейта, если бы на то была его воля, он бы запретил этот мотив раз и навсегда. Будущее Escada так же красочно, как и весенняя коллекция марки. Наибольший восторг у Уингейта вызывает коллаборация с фабрикой фарфора Nymphenburg для создания коллекции осень-зима 2015/16. Учитывая, что обе компании расположены в Мюнхене, это сотрудничество представляется весьма идеальным, так что в уникальности будущей коллекции можно не сомневаться. Намерение дизайнера сделать марку «праздничной, смелой, оригинальной, роскошной и заразительной» уже гарантирует Escada непременный успех. escada.com

globalblue.com

80: Bright Young Things

Молодые и яркие

Верити Хоган рассказывает про немецкие бренды нового поколения, которым яркие принты нравятся больше, чем классический минимализм В массовом сознании немецкая мода длительное время ассоциировалась со своеобразным пуризмом, характерным, например, для Jil Sander. Минимализм, драпировка, асимметрия и спокойные цвета стали правилом хорошего стиля в Германии, пусть каждый город стремится показать собственное модное лицо. Функциональность предстает здесь стереотипом, за исключением, пожалуй, роскошных спортивных лейблов с их расслабленными образами. Однако в последние годы молодые дизайнеры все активнее интересуются более яркой и неоднозначной эстетикой, вдохновляясь другими культурами и городским стритстайлом. На этой волне уже успел завоевать популярность немецкий бренд Antonia Goy. Для него дизайнеры Антония Гой и Бьорн Кубейа создают вещи в духе классического немецкого минимализма, приправляя их неожиданными сочетаниями тканей и текстур. Этот творческий дуэт предпочитает яркие принты, а не лаконичную однотонность. Например, цветовая гамма и узоры коллекции весна/лето 2015 напоминают абстрактную живопись и размытые фотографии, а складки и сочетания с кожей добавляют вещам текстурности. Жизнь в столице дарит им вдохновение: «Берлин – великолепный город: он открытый, молодой и стильный. Он стремится к новому, и его не волнуют традиции и ограничения. Берлин ищет собственный путь к современной эпохе, - делится Гой. – И это, конечно, очень вдохновляет нас». Дизайнеры считают, что для их города наиболее типичен «стиль повседневности – джинсы, кеды и футболки». И это настроение, когда «все

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дозволено», отражается на модной сцене: «В Берлине имеет значение не выбор брендов, а умение быть самим собой». Дорин Шульц и Клада Лесковар, которые работают над маркой Cneeon, любуются контрастом их стиля на общем фоне: «Нам нравится носить яркие вещи. Большую часть года Берлин – абсолютно серый город. Поэтому нам так приятно создавать нечто совершенно иное», - объясняет Шульц. Марка Cneeon прославилась яркими принтами. И в коллекции этого сезона центральное место заняло платье-футболка с ультрафиолетовым принтом, который в зависимости от освещения меняет цвет от мятно-зеленого до синего. «Нам нравится идея, что можно ехать в вагоне метро в платье цвета униформы, а затем выйти на улицу – и цвет поменяется на ярко-синий», комментирует Лесковар. Необычная одежда с принтами от Cneeon нравится многим: «Порой

удивительно наблюдать, насколько разные наши покупатели. Мы встречаем элегантных женщин, молодых девушек и настоящих леди в наших вещах, в частности ярких шарфах», - делится Шульц. Калейдоскопичные принты и архитектурные силуэты Âme Soeur тоже полюбились поклонникам моды и трендсеттерам. Дизайнеры-сестры Мадина и Сабина Ташен придерживаются необычной концепции «одного разреза», то есть создают каждую вещь из цельного полотна. «У нашей аудитории нет ограничений по возрасту. Скорее, значение имеет глубокое понимание и знание моды. Женщина в стиле Âme Soeur не боится выделяться и делать модные заявления», - говорит Мадина. Работая над коллекцией весна/лето 2015, дизайнеры Âme Soeur вдохновляются героями и злодеями из комиксов, и это полная противоположность серьезной эстетике, с которой обычно ассоциируется

PHOTO: ANNA DAKI

PHOTO: SCHAH-PHOTOGRAPHY

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немецкая мода. «Самое прекрасное, что в Берлине смешивается столько стилей, - делится Мадина. – Но, пожалуй, самым характерным можно назвать манеру одеваться в духе «я не придаю этому большого значения». Вы можете надеть что угодно, и люди не будут вас разглядывать или судить». Неповторимый характер немецких городов подспудно влияет на творчество дуэта: «Берлин – идеальный город для нашей жизни. Нам нравится его толерантность, непринужденность, разнообразие и красота, - делится Мадина. – А если ты счастлив и наслаждаешься жизнью в городе так, как мы, то непременно вдохновляешься globalblue.com

всем окружающим, даже повседневными мелочами». Все эти марки далеки от минималистской эстетики. Те принципы, которые считаются типичными для Германии, стали отправной точкой для экспериментов. Цвет, принты и яркие узоры – вот что объединяет новое модное поколение. И это приносит свои плоды: Âme Soeur планирует расширять ассортимент за счет линии аксессуаров, Antonia Goy открывает онлайн-магазин и занимается коллаборациями. Молодые дизайнерские лейблы Германии создают противоядие повседневности, будь то коллекции про

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супергероев, принты-калейдоскопы или меняющая цвет одежда. Разнообразная палитра только усиливает атмосферу радости. И этот подход находит понимание во всех уголках страны, поскольку поддерживает разнообразные пристрастия в немецких городах. На этот процесс уже обратила внимание международная общественность, а значит, вскоре и собирательный модный образ Германии станет чуть менее серьезным. antoniagoy.com, cneeon.com, amesoeurfashion.com 112 : When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

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2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

美文翻译

62: Blueprint For Success 成功蓝图 慕尼黑正迅速成为德国当代设计的枢纽，同时吸引 着新晋创意人才与国际知名品牌，Josh Sims报道

Konstantin Grcic是当代设计领域的超级巨星。这 位多座奖项的获得者曾为Flos、Authentics、Magis 与Vitra等主流制造商设计产品。然而这位设计 师并非在纽约、伦敦或柏林工作，而是驻扎于 慕尼黑。这或许让人感到意外，然而另一位国 际设计大鳄Stefan Diez同样在慕尼黑设立工 作室。实际上，慕尼黑正迅速成为德国的设计 枢纽：Nitzan Cohen、Stefen Kehrle、Mirko Borsche、Clemens Weisshaar、Michael Geldmacher、Ayzit Bostan与Saskia Diez等在国 际设计届长袖善舞的年轻设计师，都聚集在这座 城市。 “现在有许多独立设计师在慕尼黑工 作， ”Volker Kastl表示，作为玩具、自行车配件与 LED照明设计师，他也经营着自己的室内设计公司 与店铺，Kastl Design。 “这里有一座设计学院，源 源不断地培养着人才，虽然没有柏林那么多。柏林 很适合时尚、艺术与手工艺，但慕尼黑聚集着财富及 对昂贵设计产品的需求，这一点也吸引了新设计师 前来定居。” 慕尼黑并非只是新晋设计人才的天堂。奥迪和 宝马都在城中设有设计工作室，国际领先的设计公 司如Ideo与Frog也在此设有办公室，无印良品则选 择慕尼黑作为德国首家专卖店的店址。颇具影响力 的照明公司与店铺Ingo Maurer于1960年代诞生于 慕尼黑，其设计见诸于城中的许多重要建筑与地铁 站。该公司的设计师Axel Schmid留意到“对于设 计的感知与设计质量在近年大幅提升——这一现 象促进了许多设计店铺与贩售更具功能性产品的店 铺的涌现”。 人们确实能在这座城市的每个角落见到 设计店铺的身影。其中最优秀的综合设计店铺 Magazin，贩售当代德国设计产品；海得豪森区的 1260 Grad则专攻陶瓷制品；Koton与Thiersch15 都是位于莱厄尔区的家居装饰店；还有文具专家 Semikolon与CartaPura；以及城中最负盛名的店 铺Kustermann，其历史可追溯到1798年。 这个名单看起来还在不断增长。 “毕竟，慕尼 黑的历史表明设计力量正在此蓄势待发，这座城市 高度重视设计创意，而非仅关注企业层面的设计产 业。”设立于慕尼黑的设计机构Heckhaus的发言人 Alexandra Dimitrijevic指出。该公司最近正负责

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70: Colour Magic 色彩魔力

Sally McIlhone连线Escada品牌设计师Daniel Wingate，一同庆祝意趣横生的2015年春夏季新

PHOTO: © PETERNEUSSER.DE

品，以及特别精品系列的隆重发布

位于玛利亚广场的Fitness First Black Label运动 俱乐部项目，以及为室内设计与配饰品牌Domicil 打造一间新概念店，他们还经常与Designschule München（慕尼黑设计学院）合作进行项目。 每年二月下旬的慕尼黑创意产业周，虽然从 2012年才开始举办，已俨然成为德国规模最大的设 计盛事，其国际影响力也与日俱增。这是德国设计产 业聚集并向公众提供开放活动的绝佳机会。城中的 许多店铺都参与其中，开展一系列附属活动。 “设计经济在德国非常强势——长久以来该 国都有产品设计与制造的传统——然而这样的活 动能鼓励更多企业参与到关于设计质量、而非价格 的竞争中，这一点现在越来越难， ” Bayern Design 的发言人，德国创意产业周的创立者Kilian Steiner 表示。 “当然，柏林是一个很酷的地方。然而产品 设计是个复杂的过程，需要像慕尼黑这样更务实的 做法。” 今年，Bayern Design推出了一项帮助年轻 设计师建立第一份事业、第一家设计公司或第一 间店铺的计划，这将会适时地强化慕尼黑作为设 计中心的地位。举例而言，城中的Pinakothek der Moderne（现代艺术陈列馆）展示着综合设计、图 形设计与相关艺术作品，慕尼黑国际设计博物馆Die Neue Sammlung则陈列着由Florian Hufnagl策 展的当代手工艺品收藏系列。这两处场馆正日渐被 视作重要的国家机构，并帮助慕尼黑不断巩固着其 在国际设计界的地位。 konstantin-grcic.com, stefan-diez.com, kastldesign.de, ingo-maurer.com, heckhaus.de, mcbw.de, bayern-design.de globalblue.com

著名品牌Escada就是高贵优雅的同义词。的的确 确，品牌创始人Wolfgang Ley与Margaretha Ley 就是本着这样的理念，于1978年展出了他们的第 一个服装系列。公司继而推出姐妹产品线Escada Sport，以及香水、家居和配饰，近年更开始涉猎腕 表与珠宝行业；35年过去了，这家德国公司仍然是国 际时尚舞台上的焦点之一。 现任时尚总监Daniel Wingate于2004年以资 深设计师的身份加盟Escada。Wingate将他为品牌 效力的十年之中积累的知识倾注于色彩明媚而优雅

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非凡的2015春夏季系列之中。为同一个品牌效力十 年，许多设计师可能会感到灵感的源泉逐渐枯涸。然 而 Wingate却恰恰相反：他热衷于周游列国、探索世 界，也因而得以不断迸发新奇想法。 “我从许多事情 当中寻找灵感，但大部分都是通过旅行和体验新的 文化、食物及语言， ”这位设计师自白道。 “2015春夏 季系列的灵感是花卉——她们是我的植物美人儿。” 从流光溢彩的夜礼服、连衫裤和绸缎七分裤到印有 花卉图案的上衣和短裤，Escada的最新系列延续了 品牌别样奢华的著名传统，同时又令人惊喜地融入了 丝丝新潮元素。 Escada近年来的强势复出在某种程度上要归 功于Wingate的努力（当然也少不了董事长兼总经 理Megha Mittal的全力支持，Wingate常常赞其为 Escada女性的完美典范）。除了当季最新款之外，新 春之际该品牌还将发布一个激动人心的设计师精品 系列：Escada遇见Thilo Westermann。以德国青

年艺术家Thilo Westermann的虚空系列画为出发 点，Escada巧妙地将点彩画风格花卉图案及平面设 计应用到一条惊艳晚礼服、一款外套和一套上衣及 长裤，以及其他衣物上。Westermann作品的艺术效 果可谓超凡脱俗——每一件画作都是由一个个亲手 绘制的圆点构成的——Wingate对此次合作深感自 豪，并将那条引人瞩目的兰花晚礼裙视为2015年春 夏季新款中他本人最心爱的作品。 Wingate来自美国的佛罗里达州，他将母亲视 为自己的第一位时尚偶像。 “我的母亲一直都很有时 尚意识，我想我是从她那里遗传了对时尚的痴迷， ” 他解释道。 “起初我觉得我想当个室内设计师，但最 后我还是进入了位于纽约的帕森斯设计学院，选择 了时尚。” 在这所极富盛名的纽约时装设计学校深造 之后，Wingate曾先后辗转于Geofrey Beene和 Hugo Boss，然后才加盟了Escada。在Escada度过 了十年之后，Wingate仍然对他涉及到的东西以及每 个季度他将负责的新鲜项目“感觉非常好”。 “时间飞 逝如斯，而时尚也在随之飞快发展。要我说，[在过去 10年中]对时尚圈而言最大的变化就是互联网：信息 更新更快了，而且现在世界各地的商店都在24小时 营业。这真是不可思议， ”Wingate继续说道。 虽然Escada目前并未打算进军男装行业，可 Wingate他本人当然时时刻刻都穿戴整齐得体。那 么，他用以打造温雅造型的关键元素有哪些呢？ “我 喜欢喷点儿好闻的古龙香水，穿一件裁剪完美的西 装或夹克，鞋子也非常重要。我喜欢运动鞋，但也喜 欢手工制作的经典英式布洛克鞋。”Wingate热衷于 休闲且时髦别致的鞋款，这一点就像Escada一样， 他从不怕给一身剪裁讲究的装束搭一点儿花哨的 味道。就时尚规则而言，Wingate非常注重“干净得 体，头发整洁和牙齿洁白” ，并且要穿出真我气质。 “ 在品质上放手投资。了解趋势，但不用太赶时髦，要 清楚你自己，清楚你穿什么好看。”然而，这些规则 还有一个例外——Wingate与“任何带有骷髅头的 东西”划清了界限，如果他有这权力的话，他一定会 全面禁止使用这一时尚图案。 就如色彩缤纷的新春系列一样，Escada的未 来也灿烂似锦。而最让Wingate 感到兴奋的，是 2015/16年秋冬季系列与宁芬堡瓷器的联袂合作： 夏天一过，这个系列就值得您的格外关注。考虑到两 家品牌的总部都在慕尼黑，这一次不同风格的结合 也就顺理成章了，而得益于合作双方同样辉煌的历 史，一系列惊艳的新品必定值得万众期待。 “令人愉悦、敢于创新、别具一格、高贵奢华 且极富感染力” ，这是Escada的品牌愿景。毫无疑 问，Wingate已经成功了。 escada.com

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80: Bright Young Things 年轻有为的德国新品牌 德国冉冉升起的时尚品牌摒弃了这个国家简约主义 的经典传统，极力主张俏皮的印花。Verity Hogan 报道 长久以来在大众的印象里，德国时尚被贴上了Jil Sander等品牌开创的纯粹主义的标签。虽然每一座 德国城市都有自己的时尚品味，简约主义、流线褶 皱、不对称和色块定义了这个国家的时尚造型。功能 时尚是德国时尚的刻板印象，唯一有所妥协的就是 造型更加宽松的运动奢华品牌。然而最近几年，德 国本土的天才设计师们已经逐渐远离了这一分类， 他们从其他文化和城市街头风格中汲取了灵感，崇 尚一个更加玩世不恭的美学品味。 Antonia Goy是从德国产生的最著名品牌之 一。设计师Antonia Goy 和 Björn Kubeja的作品 引用了德国经典的简约主义，又通过材料和结构的

选择制造出出其不意的创意效果。两人避开了大胆 的色块，转而选用色彩活泼的印花。该品牌2015年 春夏系列配色方案从抽象画和失焦的摄影图片中 获得了启发，而褶皱和双色调皮革则增加了一丝纹 理感。 他们的家乡提供了灵感。 “柏林很棒，他随意、 年轻还很酷。他新颖，不在乎传统的拘束和条条 框框。柏林正试图在一个摩登的年代找到自己的方 globalblue.com

式， ”Goy说。 “当然，这非常鼓舞人心。”这两位设计 师将这个城市的典型风格形容为“休闲：牛仔裤，运 动鞋和T恤” ，而正是这种“怎么都行”的精神被反映 在了时尚圈里。 “（在柏林）这不是关于某一个品牌， 更多的是关于做自己。” Cneeon的Doreen Schulz 和Clara Leskovar 更愿意将他们的作品看做是周围环境的对立面。 “我 们喜欢穿色彩斑驳的衣服。一年中的好几个月，柏林 都是一个灰蒙蒙的城市。所以创造出一个对立面是 一个很不错的选择， ” Schulz解释道。该品牌以印花 出名，而本季新款之一就是一条亮眼的T恤连衣裙。 它的紫外线反射丝网印花可以让颜色从薄荷绿渐变 到蓝色。Leskovar说： “我们喜欢这个想法，坐在地 铁里，穿着色彩如制服般的裙子，然后走到外面，裙 子的颜色开始变成了亮蓝色。” Cneeon的个性印花拥有广泛的吸引力。 “有的时 候看到我们的客户是如此不同会有点惊讶。我们有优 雅的女士、年轻的女孩儿和年长的妇人，她们都穿着 我们的服饰，特别是五颜六色的围巾， ”Schulz说。

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Âme Soeur的万花筒印花和建筑感造型同样 具有广泛的吸引力，受到了风格各异的潮流人士的 欢迎。这个品牌是由另一对设计二人组创立的—— Taschén姐妹Madina和Sabina。众所周知，她们热 爱充满活力的印花和“一刀剪”的创新概念：她们设 计的衣服都是由一整块布料裁剪而成。 “一个典型的 Âme Soeur穿着者不会受到年龄的界定，定义她们 的是她们对时尚的深入理解和知识。她不会惧怕挺 身而出，发表自己的时尚宣言， ”Madina说。 2015年Âme Soeur春夏季系列的灵感来自于漫 画书中英雄和恶棍的世界， 这与德国时装往往毫无 幽默感的美学观形成了鲜明的对比。 “柏林很好的一 点是他有许多种风格， ” Madina 解释说。 “但我想最 典型的就是‘我一点也不在乎’的风格。你可以穿上任 何东西，别人也不会盯着你看评头论足。” 德国城市的鲜明个性对二人的设计产生了潜在 的影响。 “柏林是我们最喜欢生活的城市，我们喜欢 他的包容、野性、多元化和美丽， ” Madina说。 “我 想当你享受在一个城市生活并感觉到快乐，就像我

们喜欢住在柏林一样，自然而然你就会受到周围环 境许多微小事物的启发。” 这些品牌所代表的德国时尚绝对不是简约主 义。被视为典型德国元素的结构化形式为时尚实验 奠定了基础。色彩、印花和俏皮的图案是德国新一 代时尚司空见惯的元素，而这也被证明是一个成功 的公式：Âme Soeur正在计划扩大自己的产品线，将 配饰囊括在内，而Antonia Goy正打算推出一个在 线商店，并进行一些产业合作。 从印花千变万化的超级英雄系列到堪称“阴天 解药”的创新型色彩渐变服饰，德国冉冉升起的设 计师品牌迎来了斑斓的色彩，并为时尚增加了一丝 乐趣。 这种方法具有广泛的吸引力，并反映出这个 国家城市的不同个性。随着这种美学持续吸引了国 际社会的关注，德国风格的招牌造型看上去不那么 严肃了。 antoniagoy.com, cneeon.com, amesoeurfashion.com

112: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程：

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 （Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小 票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 的退税点领取您的退税款。 联系方式：

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€25并且节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请 注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管 理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取 现金退税手续费。

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‫نحب العيش ف‬ ‫سعيدة وتستمتعي بالعيش ف مدينة ما بقدر ما ّ‬ ‫برلي‪ ،‬تستوحي تلقائيّاً من أمور صغية محيطة بك‪".‬‬ ‫يكن وصف مشهد الزياء التمثّل بهذه العلمات التجاريّة كيفم‬ ‫كان إل بالبسيط‪ .‬توفّر البادئ التي تعتب ألانيّة بحته عل سبيل‬ ‫الشكل النظّم‪ ،‬أساساً للختبار‪ .‬تشيع اللوان والنقوش والتصاميم‬ ‫البتكرة ف أعمل جيل الزياء الجديدة ف ألانيا‪ .‬ويبدو أنّه مسار‬ ‫ناجح إذ تسعى علمة ‪ Âme Soeur‬إل توسيع نطاق عملها‬ ‫خاصا ً بالكسسوارات‪ ،‬كم ستطلق ‪Antonia Goy‬‬ ‫لتشمل خطّاً ّ‬ ‫عم قريب متجرا ً عب النتنت وتدخل ف عدد من الساهمت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الصناعيّة‪.‬‬ ‫من الجموعات الستوحاة من البطال الخارقي ذات النقوش‬ ‫التغية اللوان والتي تناقض اليّام‬ ‫التغية إل القطع البتكرة ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫االضبابيّة‪ ،‬يعتمد مص ّممو العلمات الصاعدة ف ألانيا مجمموعة‬ ‫رائعة من اللوان ويضفون نفحة من الرح إل الزياء‪ .‬تلقى هذه‬ ‫كل مدينة عل حدا‪ .‬ونتيجة‬ ‫القار بة رواجاً واسعاً وتعكس طابع ّ‬ ‫لفت هذا السلوب النظار العاليّة‪ ،‬يبدو أ ّن أسلوب ألانيا الخاص‬ ‫أقل جديّة بكثي‪.‬‬ ‫سيصبح ّ‬ ‫‪،antoniagoy.com‬‬ ‫‪،cneeon.com‬‬ ‫‪amesoeurfashion.com‬‬

‫بقميص قطني مزخرف بنقش عاكس للشعة ما فوق البنفسجيّة‪،‬‬ ‫يتغي لونه من الخض الداكن إل الزرق‪ .‬تضيف ‪Leskovar‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫قائلة‪" :‬نستمتع بالجلوس ف قطار أنفاق مرتديتي ثوباً‬ ‫أحادي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ليتغي لونه إل أزرق زا ٍه"‪.‬‬ ‫اللّون تقريباً ومن ث ّم نخرج إل الشارع ّ‬ ‫تلقى قطع ‪ Cneeon‬ذات النقوش البتكرة الكثي من العجاب‪.‬‬ ‫تقول ‪" :Schulz‬من الدهش أحياناً أن نلحظ تن ّوع زبائننا‪.‬‬ ‫نرى نساء أنيقات وشابّات أصغر س ّناً وسيّدات أكب س ّناً يرتدين‬ ‫وبخاصة الوشحة الل ّونة‪".‬‬ ‫تصاميمنا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫التغية اللوان وتصاميمها البتكرة‬ ‫وتلقى نقوش ‪ّ Âme Soeur‬‬ ‫كل محدّدي الوضة من مختلف الذواق‪.‬‬ ‫شهر ًة ممثلة إذ اعتمدها ّ‬ ‫العلمة من ابتكار ثنائ آخر‪ ،‬الشقيقتي ‪ Madina‬و‪Sabina‬‬ ‫‪ Taschén‬الشهيتي بحبّهم للنقوش الحيويّة وببدأ "القطعة‬ ‫الواحدة" البتكر بحيث تُصنع اللبس من قطعة قمش واحدة‪.‬‬ ‫تقول ‪ Madina‬ف هذا الصدد‪" :‬ل ت ُحدّد زبونة ‪Âme Soeur‬‬ ‫النموذجيّة بحسب عمرها‪ ،‬بل بحسب فهمها الواف للزياء‬ ‫ومعرفتها بها‪ .‬ل تخش الختلف عن الخرين والتعبي عن أسلوب‬ ‫معي"‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ ،2015‬تستوحي مجموعة ‪ Âme Soeur‬من عال‬ ‫اأبطال وأشار كتب الكوميديا الذي يشكّل نقيضاً مفاجئاً للسلوب‬ ‫البعيد عن الهزل الذي تتمتّع به الزياء اللانيّة بالعادة‪ .‬تقول‬ ‫‪ Madina‬ف هذا الصدد‪" :‬الثي للهتمم بشأن برلي هو تن ّوع‬ ‫أساليبها‪ .‬لك ّنني أعتقد أ ّن السلوب الكث نوذجيّة هو أسلوب‬ ‫"اللمبالة" بحيث يكنك ارتداء ما تشاء من دون التع ّرض إل‬ ‫رمقات وأحكام الناس‪".‬‬ ‫لطابع الدن اللانيّة الميّز أثر غي ُمدرك عل تصاميم الثنائ‪.‬‬ ‫أي مدينة أخرى‪.‬‬ ‫تقول ‪" :Madina‬نفضّ ل العيش ف برلي عل ّ‬ ‫نحب تسامحها و وتن ّوعها وجملها‪ .‬أعتقد أنّك عندما تكوني‬ ‫ّ‬

‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 112‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من‬ ‫‪ 270,000‬متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة‬ ‫الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫مكاتب الستداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للت ّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ €25‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14.5%‬من ثن مشتياتك‪.‬‬

‫يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة‬ ‫عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬ف بعض الطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض‬ ‫رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت‬ ‫بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫أساليب جديدة زاهية‬

‫تلجأ العلمات التجاريّة الصاعدة ف مجال الزياء ف ألانيا إل‬ ‫النقوش البتكرة بدلً من البساطة الكلسيكيّة العتمدة ف البلد‪،‬‬ ‫تقرير ‪Verity Hogan‬‬ ‫لطالا اتّسمت الزياء اللانيّة بالصفويّة التي مثّلتها خي تثيل‬ ‫علمات عل سبيل ‪ .Jil Sander‬فباتت البساطة والنسدال‬ ‫تجسد أساليب الزياء ف البلد بالرغم‬ ‫واللتناظر واللوان الصارخة ّ‬ ‫الخاص‪ .‬يسود نط الزياء‬ ‫كل مدينة ألانيّة بأسلوبها‬ ‫من تتّع ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الختصة بالزياء‬ ‫العمليّة بالجمل‪ ،‬وتوفّر العلمات التجاريّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الرياضيّة الفاخرة أسلوباً أكث راحةً‪ .‬إل أنّه ف السنوات الخية‪،‬‬ ‫بدأ الص ّممون اللان بالبتعاد عن هذا السلوب واتّباع أناط أكث‬ ‫التحض‪.‬‬ ‫حيويّة‪ ،‬مستوحي من ثقافات أخرى وأسلوب الشارع‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫من العلمات التجاريّة الشهر الناشئة ف ألانيا علمة ‪Antonia‬‬ ‫‪ .Goy‬يبتكر الص ّممن ‪ Antonia Goy‬و‪Björn Kubeja‬‬ ‫قطعاً تذكّر بالبساطة اللانيّة الكلسيكيّة مضيفَي نفحة غي‬ ‫متوقّعة من خلل الواد والبُنية الختارة‪ .‬يبتعد الثنائ عن اللوان‬ ‫الصارخة مفضّ لي النقوش الحيويّة وتستوحي مجموعة ربيع‪/‬صيف‬ ‫‪ 2015‬ألوانها ونقوشها من لوحات تجريديّة وصور ضبابيّة فيم‬ ‫تضفي إليها الثنايا والجلد الثنائ اللّون ملمساً مميّزا ً‪.‬‬ ‫مسقط رأسهم مصدر لللهام‪ .‬تقول ‪ Goy‬ف هذا الصدد‪" :‬برلي‬ ‫عظيمة؛ إنّها سهلة ويافعة ومثية للهتمم‪ .‬إنّها جديدة‪ .‬ل تبال‬ ‫شق طريقها الخاص ف عا ٍل حديث؛‬ ‫بالتقاليد والقيود‪ .‬تحاول برلي ّ‬ ‫المر اللهم بالنسبة لنا إل ح ّد كبي"‪ .‬يصف الص ّممن أسلوب‬ ‫مدينتهم النموذجي بـ "غي الرسمي‪ :‬جينز وحذاء رياض وقميص‬ ‫قطني" وتنعكس روح "العمليّة" عل ساحة الزياء‪" .‬اله ّم ف برلي‬ ‫أن تثّل نفسك وليس أي علمة تجاريّة محدّدة‪".‬‬ ‫تفضّ ل ‪ Doreen Schulz‬و‪ Clara Leskovar‬من ‪Cneeon‬‬ ‫"نحب‬ ‫أن تعتبا عملهم نقيض ما يحيط بهم‪ .‬تقول ‪:Schulz‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ارتداء ملبس مل ّونة‪ .‬يطغي اللّون الرمادي عل برلي لشهور‬ ‫متعدّدة‪ ،‬لذا من الجميل أن نرى شيئاً مناقضاً"‪ .‬تشتهر العلمة‬ ‫بنقوشها ومن القطع الميّزة ف الجموعة هذا الوسم‪ ،‬فستان أشبه‬

‫‪PHOTO: SARAH KLUGE‬‬

‫‪( Wingate‬بدعمٍ كامل من رئيسة مجلس الدارة والديرة‬ ‫‪ Megha Mittal‬التي كثيا ً ما يشي إليها الص ّمم كالصورة‬ ‫الثاليّة عن امرأة ‪ .)Escada‬بالضافة إل الجموعة الخية‪،‬‬ ‫تطلق العلمة هذا الربيع مجموعة مصغّرة مثية للهتمم بعنوان‬ ‫‪ Escada‬تلتقي ‪ .Thilo Westermann‬انطلقاً من سلسلة‬ ‫الشاب‪ ،‬طبّقت العلمة نقوش‬ ‫لوحات ‪ Vanitas‬للف ّنان اللان‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أزهار مرسومة بالتنقيط وتصاميم غرافيكيّة عل فستان سهرة‬ ‫منسقة مع سوال وقميص وغيها من اللبس‪ .‬يتمتّع‬ ‫ساحر وستة ّ‬ ‫كل‬ ‫عمل ‪ Westermann‬بستوى مذهل من الهارة؛ تتألّف ّ‬ ‫لوحاته من نقاط مرسومة باليد‪ ،‬ويفتخر ‪ Wingate‬بهذا التعاون‬ ‫إل ح ّد كبي‪ ،‬حتّى أنّه يشي إل فستان ‪ Orchid‬الخاطف للنفاس‬ ‫عل أنّه الفضل لديه من بي تصاميمه لربيع‪/‬صيف ‪.2015‬‬ ‫‪ Wingate‬ف الصل من ولية فلوريدا الميكيّة ويعتف أ ّن‬ ‫والدته كانت أيقونة الزياء الول بالنسبة له‪ .‬يشح قائلً‪" :‬اهت ّمت‬ ‫والدت بأزيائها عل الدوام وأعتقد ّأن ورثت عنها هذا الهتمم‪.‬‬ ‫فكّرت ف البداية أن أصبح مص ّممً داخليّاً‪ ،‬لكن ف النهاية ت ّم قبول‬ ‫ف جامعة ‪ Parsons‬ف نيويورك واختت الزياء‪".‬‬ ‫تلقّى ‪ Wingate‬دراسته ف كليّة تصميم الزياء الراقية ف‬ ‫نيويورك ومن ث ّم عمل لدى ‪ Geoffrey Beene‬و‪Hugo‬‬ ‫‪ Boss‬قبل النضمم إل ‪ .Escada‬بعد عش سنوات من العمل‬ ‫مع العلمة‪ ،‬ما زال ‪" Wingate‬سعيدا ً" با أنجز وبالشاريع‬ ‫كل موسم‪ .‬يقول ف هذا الصدد‪" :‬بالرغم‬ ‫الجديدة التي يستلمها ّ‬ ‫من مرور الوقت بسعة هائلة وكذلك الزياء‪ ،‬أعتقد أ ّن التغيي‬ ‫البرز الذي شهدته الزياء (ف السنوات العش الخية) كان‬ ‫النتنت‪ :‬تنتقل العلومات بسع ٍة أكب وأصبحت التاجر مفتوحة‬ ‫كل أنحاء العال‪ .‬إنّه لمر رائع‪".‬‬ ‫عل مدار الساعة ف ّ‬ ‫عل الرغم من عدم رغبة ‪ Escada‬حاليّاً‬ ‫بالتوسع إل ملبس‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الرجال‪ Wingate ،‬بشخصه متألّق بامتياز عل الدوام‪ .‬فم هي‬ ‫"أحب‬ ‫العناص الساسيّة التي يستخدمها للظهور بإطللة مميّزة؟ ّ‬ ‫الفصلة بدقّة والحذاء مه ّم‬ ‫العطر الجميل والبدلة أو الستة ّ‬ ‫أحب الحذية الرياضيّة وكذلك الحذاء النجليزي الكلسيك‬ ‫ج ّدا ً‪ّ .‬‬ ‫الصنوع يدويّاً‪ ".‬انطلقاً من شغفه بالحذية العمليّة والنيقة‬ ‫عل ح ّد سواء‪ ،‬يظهر ‪ Wingate‬أنّه عل غرار ‪ ،Escada‬ل‬ ‫يهاب إضافة نفحة عمليّة إل إطلل ٍة مدروسة بدقّة‪ .‬وف ما يتعلّق‬ ‫بقواعد السلوب‪ ،‬يركّز ‪ Wingate‬عل "التتيب والشعر الصفّف‬ ‫خاصة‪" .‬اهت ّم‬ ‫والسنان السليمة" وكذلك عل اللتزام بإطللة ّ‬ ‫بالنوعيّة‪ .‬اطّلع عل صيحات الوضة لكن ل تتبعها إل ح ّد كبي‬ ‫واعرف شخصيّتك وما يناسبك‪ ".‬إل أنّه ث ّة استثناء واحد لهذه‬ ‫القاعدة؛ يشطب ‪" Wingate‬أي شء يتض ّمن جمجمة"‪ ،‬ولو كان‬ ‫المر بيده‪ ،‬لنع هذا الرسم الزخرف‪.‬‬ ‫عل غرار مجموعة ‪ Escada‬الغنيّة باللوان لهذا الربيع‪،‬‬ ‫مستقبلها زا ٍه أيضاً‪ .‬يشعر ‪ Wingate‬بحمسة كبية لتعاونه مع‬ ‫علمة ‪ Nymphenburg‬للخزف لخريف‪/‬شتاء ‪:2015/16‬‬ ‫وهو ما سننتظره بفارغ الصبعند انتهاء الصيف‪ .‬ونظرا ً لوقوع‬ ‫مركزي هاتي العلمتي الرئيسيّي ف ميونخ‪ ،‬يبدو توحيد السلوبي‬ ‫منطقيّاً ج ّدا ً ونتيجة تاريخم الشتك‪ ،‬ل ّ‬ ‫شك أ ّن الجموعة النتظرة‬ ‫ستخطف النفاس‪.‬‬ ‫من الواضح أ ّن جهود ‪ Wingate‬لجعل ‪" Escada‬مرحة وجريئة‬ ‫وفريدة من نوعها وفاخرة ومؤث ّرة" تفلح‪.‬‬ ‫‪escada.com‬‬

‫‪Bright Young Things: 80‬‬

‫‪128‬‬

‫‪bayern-design.de‬‬

‫سحر اللوان‬

‫احتفالً بإطلق مجموعة ربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ 2015‬ومجموعة جديدة‬ ‫مصغّرة مثية للهتمم‪ ،‬التقت ‪ Sally McIlhone‬بـ ‪Daniel‬‬ ‫‪ Wingate‬من ‪Escada‬‬ ‫تجسد علمة ‪ Escada‬الناقة العمليّة خي تجسيد‪ .‬والواقع أنّها‬ ‫ّ‬

‫مؤسسو العلمة‬ ‫شكّلت موضوع الجموعة الول التي عرضها ّ‬ ‫‪ Wolfgang‬و‪ Margaretha Ley‬سنة ‪ .1978‬اليوم بعد‬ ‫مرور ‪ 35‬سنة عل تأسيس العلمة وبعد إطلق خ ّ‬ ‫ط ‪Escada‬‬ ‫‪ Sport‬الذي يشمل عطورا ً وأغراضاً منزليّة وأكسسوارات وبعد‬ ‫خاصاً بالساعات والجوهرات‪ ،‬ما زالت الشكة‬ ‫إطلق مؤ ّخرا ً خطّاً ّ‬ ‫اللانيّة أحد أبرز اللعبي عل ساحة الوضة العاليّة‪.‬‬ ‫انض ّم الدير الحال ‪ Daniel Wingate‬إل ‪ Escada‬كمص ّمم‬ ‫خبي سنة ‪ 2004‬فطبّق العرفة التي اكتسبها لدى العلمة ف‬ ‫هذه السنوات العش عل مجموعته الجريئة والرفيعة الستوى‬ ‫لربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ .2015‬بعد العمل لعش سنوات لدى العلمة‬ ‫يشح‪.‬‬ ‫نفسها‪ ،‬قد يعتقد بعض الص ّممي أ ّن مصدر إلهامهم ّ‬ ‫لكن ليس هذا هو حال ‪ ،Wingate‬إذ ما زال يفيض بالفكار‬ ‫بفضل شغفه بالستكشاف العالي‪ .‬يعتف قائلً‪" :‬أجد اللهام ف‬ ‫بخاصة من خلل السفر والتع ّرف إل ثقافات‬ ‫أشياء كثية‪ ،‬لكن ّ‬ ‫ومأكولت ولغات جديدة‪ .‬استوحيت مجموعتي لربيع‪/‬صيف‬ ‫‪ 2015‬من الزهار‪ ،‬وأس ّميها جميلت النباتيّة‪ ".‬فمن خلل أثواب‬ ‫بلون الجواهر وأوفارولت وساويل قصية من الساتي وستات‬ ‫وشورتات منقوشة بالزهار‪ ،‬تحافظ مجموعة ‪ Escada‬الخية‬ ‫عل الناقة الفاخرة التي لطالا اشتهر بها الدار‪ ،‬مم ّرر ًة بعض‬ ‫الفاجآت العصيّة‪.‬‬ ‫يعود الفضل جزئيّاً ف عمليّة إعادة إحياء ‪ Escada‬إل جهود‬

‫‪ARTWORK: THILO WESTERMANN AND OECHSNER GALERIE‬‬

‫ومحل النوار الكبى ‪ Ingo Maurer‬ف ميونخ ف الستّينات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وتبز تصاميمها ف عدد كبي من البنية الضخمة ومحطّات النفاق‬ ‫ف الدينة‪ .‬يشي مص ّمم الشكة ‪ Axel Schmid‬إل "الزيادة‬ ‫اللحوظة ف الوعي إل التصاميم وجودة التصميم هنا ف السنوات‬ ‫الخية المر الذي يش ّجع افتتاح محلت تصميم ومحلت لبيع‬ ‫قطع ذات جودة أكث عمليّة"‪.‬‬ ‫كل ركن من أركان‬ ‫الحقيقة أ ّن متاجر التصميم موجودة ف ّ‬ ‫الدينة‪ .‬من التاجر الرقى ف هذا الجال ‪ Magazin‬الذي‬ ‫يقدّم قطع تصميم ألانيّة عصيّة؛ و‪ Grad 1260‬ف منطقة‬ ‫الختص بالخزف؛ و‪ Koton‬و‪Thiersch 15‬‬ ‫‪Haidhausen‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للثاث النزل ف منطقة ‪ Lehel‬وخباء القرطاسيّة ‪Semikolon‬‬ ‫و‪ Carta Pura‬بالضافة إل ‪ Kustermann‬أحد أعرق التاجر‬ ‫ف الدينة والذي يعود إل سنة ‪.1798‬‬ ‫يبدو أ ّن اللئحة ستطول‪ .‬يقول ‪،Alexander Dimitrijevic‬‬ ‫التحدّث باسم شكة التصميم الواقعة ف ميونخ ‪:Hechaus‬‬ ‫"بفضل تاريخ ميونخ‪ ،‬تنشأ ثقافة تصميم جاذبة ف الدينة تجعلها‬ ‫مكاناً ذائع الصيت بالبداع ف التصميم وليس مج ّرد مجال‬ ‫التصميم عل الستوى العمل‪ ".‬عملت الشكة مؤ ّخرا ً عل نادي‬ ‫‪ Fitness First Black Label‬ف ساحة ‪Marienplatz‬‬ ‫متخصص جديد لعلمة الديكور الداخل‬ ‫كم وعل متجر‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫والكسسوارات ‪ ،Domicil‬وتدير باستمرار مشاريع بالتعاون مع‬ ‫مدرسة ميونخ للتصميم ‪.Designschule München‬‬ ‫تأسس أسبوع ميونخ للعمل البتكرة الذي يُجرى ف أواخر شباط‪/‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كل عام سنة ‪ 2012‬لك ّنه أضحى أكب حدث يُعنى‬ ‫فباير من ّ‬ ‫بالتصميم ف ألانيا ويحظى باهتمم عالي متزايد‪ .‬يشكّل فرصة‬ ‫لتلقي العاملي ف مجال التصميم ف ألانيا وف الوقت العينه‬ ‫لحياء مناسبات للعا ّمة‪ .‬تشارك فيه الكثي من الحلت التي تنظّم‬ ‫مناسبات ذات صلة ف الدينة‪.‬‬ ‫يقول ‪ Kilian Steiner‬التحدّث باسم شكة ‪Bayern‬‬ ‫‪ Design‬مبتكرة أسبوع مينوخ للعمل البتكرة‪" :‬اقتصاد‬ ‫التصميم قوي ج ّدا ً ف ألانيا ويتمتّع البلد بتاريخ طويل من تصميم‬ ‫النتجات وتصنيعها‪ ،‬وبالرغم من ذلك‪ ،‬تش ّجع هكذا فعاليّات‬ ‫مزيدا ً من الشكات للتنافس عل جودة التصميم وليس السعر‪،‬‬ ‫المر الذي يزيد المر صعوبة‪ .‬ل ّ‬ ‫شك أ ّن برلي مميّزة‪ .‬لكن عمليّة‬ ‫تصميم النتجات معقّدة وتستدعي مقاربة ميونخ القرب إل‬ ‫العمل‪".‬‬ ‫تطلق شكة ‪ Bayern Design‬هذا العام برنامجاً جديدا ً‬ ‫لساعدة الص ّممي الشباب عل تأسيس أعملهم أو شكاتهم‬ ‫أو محلتهم الول‪ ،‬ما سيع ّزز مع الوقت مكانة ميونخ كمرتع‬ ‫للتصميم بالرغم من شهرتها الواسعة أصلً ف هذا الجال‪ .‬خذوا‬ ‫عل سبيل الثال متحف ‪Pinakothek der Moderne‬‬ ‫الذي يعرض تصاميم ورسومات وفنونا ً ذات صلة أو متحف ‪Die‬‬ ‫‪ Neue Samlung‬للتصميم العالي الذي يض ّم مجموعة أعمل‬ ‫فنيّة معاصة للف ّنان ‪ .Florian Hufnagl‬يحظى التحفان‬ ‫بأهمية وطنيّة متزايدة ويساهمن ف ترسيخ موقع ميونخ عل‬ ‫ساحة التصميم العاليّة‪.‬‬ ‫‪،konstantin-grcic.com ،stefan-diez.com‬‬ ‫‪،kastldesign.de ،ingo-maurer.com‬‬ ‫‪،heckhaus.de ،mcbw.de‬‬

‫‪Colour Magic: 70‬‬

‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪129‬‬

‫‪日本語翻訳‬‬

‫‪112: When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free‬‬ ‫‪海外でのお買い物が免税に‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪Blueprint For Success: 62‬‬

‫مخ طّط النجاح‬

‫‪グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利‬‬ ‫‪用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街に‬‬ ‫‪ある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得に‬‬ ‫。‪なります‬‬ ‫‪年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー‬‬ ‫。‪の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください‬‬ ‫‪手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し‬‬ ‫・‪ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル‬‬ ‫‪ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを‬‬ ‫。‪踏むだけです‬‬

‫‪1. お買い物‬‬ ‫‪お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免‬‬ ‫‪税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってくだ‬‬ ‫。‪さい。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに‬‬ ‫‪2. 還付請求‬‬ ‫‪ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認‬‬ ‫‪印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付‬‬ ‫。‪事務所で払い戻しを受けます‬‬ ‫‪€25以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高14.5‬‬ ‫‪％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額‬‬ ‫‪は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差‬‬ ‫‪し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くださ‬‬ ‫‪い。 一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望‬‬ ‫‪の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課され‬‬ ‫。‪ます‬‬

‫تتح ّول ميونخ بسعة إل مرتع للتصاميم العاصة ف ألانيا جاذب ًة‬ ‫مواهب صاعدة وعلمات تجاريّة عاليّة عريقة‪ ،‬تقرير ‪Josh‬‬ ‫‪Sims‬‬

‫الص ّمم ‪ Konstantin Grcic‬أشبه بنجم ساطع ف مجال‬ ‫التصميم العاص‪ .‬حاز جوائز عديدة وابتكر قطعا ً لمثال ‪Flos‬‬ ‫و‪ Authentics‬و‪ Magis‬و‪ Vitra‬وغيهم من الص ّنعي‬ ‫البارزين‪ .‬لكن بدلً من العمل من نيويورك أو لندن أو برلي‪،‬‬ ‫اختار ميونخ مق ّرا ً له‪ .‬قد يبدو ذلك غريباً لول وقوع استوديو‬ ‫الص ّمم العالي الشهي ‪ Stefan Diez‬ف الدينة نفسها‪ .‬ف‬ ‫الواقع‪ ،‬تتح ّول ميونخ بسعة إل مرتع التصميم ف ألانيا‪ :‬توقّعوا‬ ‫أن تسمعوا الزيد عن ‪ Nitzan Cohen‬و‪Steffen Kehrle‬‬ ‫و‪ Mirko Borsche‬و‪ Clemens Weisshaar‬و‪Michael‬‬ ‫‪ Geldmacher‬و‪ Ayzit Bostan‬و‪Saskia Diez‬؛ جميعهم‬ ‫مص ّممون يافعون يحقّقون نجاحات عاليّة انطلقاً من هذه‬ ‫الدينة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ Volker Kastl‬مص ّمم ألعاب وأكسسوارات د ّراجات وأضواء‬ ‫‪ LED‬وصاحب شكة ومحل الديكور الداخل ‪،Kastl Design‬‬ ‫يقول ف هذا الصدد‪" :‬تض ّم مينوخ حاليّاً الكثي من الص ّممي‬ ‫الستقلّي‪ .‬تشهد كليّة التصميم هنا تدفّقاً دائاً للمواهب الجديدة‬ ‫لكن ل يبدو ذلك جليّاً كم ف برلي‪ .‬برلي مناسبة للزياء والفنون‬ ‫والحرف الصغية‪ ،‬ف حي تتمتّع ميونخ بالغنى وبسوقٍ أحياناً‬ ‫لقطع التصميم الباهظة الثمن‪ ،‬المر الذي يش ّجع الص ّممي الجدد‬ ‫عل الستقرار فيها‪".‬‬ ‫لكل من‬ ‫ول يقتص الوضوع عل الواهب الصاعدة فحسب‪ ،‬إذ ّ‬ ‫‪ Audi‬و‪ BMW‬استوديوهات تصميم ف الدينة وفيها شكات‬ ‫تصميم عاليّة رائدة مثل ‪ Ideo‬و‪ Frog‬بالضافة إل علمة ‪Muji‬‬ ‫التي اختارت ميونخ كموقع ل ّول متج ٍر لها ف ألانيا‪ .‬انطلقت شكة‬

130 | P RO D U C T S

SOUVENIR

AFTER DARK Munich-based goldsmith Bernhard Grassl creates distinctive handcrafted jewellery from his workshop in Neuhausen. At his eponymous store in Munich city centre you will discover an array of interesting styles incorporating classic materials such as gold, platinum, diamonds and gemstones, with more unusual choices such as wood and iron. This show-stopping piece is a contemporary take on the cocktail ring, featuring a magnifcent deep-blue oval tanzanite set into a ring crafted Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 112

from black-fnished iron and 18-carat red gold.

The sheen from the metallic circle provides a beautiful contrast to the dark shade of the setting and ensures a prominent display for the 14.75 carat stone. Visit the boutique to view more eye-catching creations or to discuss a bespoke design. gl Bernhard Grassl tanzanite in wood ring, â‚Ź18,800, Bernhard Grassl, Theatiner-Passage, Theatinerstrasse 32, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2280 1884, bernhard-grassl.de * for map go to page 106

Villeret Collection

BLANCPAIN BOUTIQUE BLANCPAIN DEUTSCHLAND

MAXIMILIANSTR. 14 ∙ 80539 MÜNCHEN ∙ TEL. +49 89 23 23 96 88 451 RUDOLF-DIESEL-STR. 7 ∙ 65760 ESCHBORN ∙ TEL. +49 61 73 60 64 56 www.blancpain.com

TIME AND ENERGY. THIS WATCH SHOWS YOU BOTH.

MANERO POWERRESERVE BOUND TO TRADITION – DRIVEN BY INNOVATION