MUNICH | МЮНХЕН | 慕尼黑 | ميونخ
MUNICH Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2016
Page 54 SET THE SCENE: celebrating Munich’s inspiring design landscape
WEINSTRASSE 5 • MÜNCHEN shop tommy.com
DEUTSCHE UHRMACHERKUNST.1893
www.christ.de
Te Oberpollinger department store ofers its customers a stunning range of exquisite lifestyle goods spread over 34,000 m2. Featuring a Designer Boulevard, prestigious fashion labels, a special Concierge Service, gourmet specialities as well as anything a discerning customer requires. Visit this exciting world of luxury just waiting to be explored right in the heart of Bavaria’s capital. Te department store frst opened its doors in 1905. It has been expanded and continually modernized over the course of its more than 100-year history. Innovative interior plus an exclusive selection of products and services place the Oberpollinger a cut above the rest. DIOR · GUCCI · MIU MIU · FENDI · PRADA · CÉLINE · TOD’S · LOUIS VUITTON BURBERRY · CARTIER · MONT BLANC · MULBERRY · BOTTEGA VENETA RALPH LAUREN · LONGCHAMP · SALVATORE FERRAGAMO · MCM · AIGNER GIORGIO ARMANI · BOSS · ARMANI COLLEZIONI · LAURÈL · BELSTAFF B OGNER · LACOSTE · TED BAKER · RIMOWA · AGENT PROVOCATEUR MICHAEL KORS · COCCINELLE · AND MANY MORE
TIME IS A LUXURY NOWADAYS, SO LET US MAKE TIME FOR YOU! Te Oberpollinger is delighted to ofer you many exclusive services, such as: PERSONAL SHOPPING SERVICE We will happily provide you with a Personal Shopper who will accompany, serve and expertly advise you throughout your visit to Oberpollinger. Our Personal Shoppers will make your shopping trip a unique and individual experience. We cater specifcally to your personal preferences, ideas and wishes. To book your personal appointment, please contact us. T +49 89 2902 5120 · concierge@oberpollinger.de CONCIERGE SERVICE BEAUTY LOUNGE GIFT-WRAPPING SERVICE COMPLIMENTARY WIFI CUSTOMER SERVICES IN-HOUSE TAILOR TAX FREE AVAILABLE AT EACH CASH POINT. Currency choice available, which allows you to pay in your own currency. Oberpollinger München ∙ Neuhauser Str. 18 ∙ 80331 München ∙ T +49 89 2902 30 www.oberpollinger.de ∙ Opening Hours: Mon - Sat 10 am – 8 pm
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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen 捷克共和国
Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera
دليل ألانيا 德国指南
Германия
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this European design hub. Munich has much to ofer, as our guide on page 85 reveals. Readers who appreciate worldclass fashion will enjoy our feature on the impressive variety of menswear available in the city (page 64), and in this issue we also reveal the interiors stores that should be on every visitor’s list. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Munich. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
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@GlobalBlue
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巴黎
Portugal Prague Riga Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius
ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN
Welcome to Munich
Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Malaysia Milan Munich Nuremburg Oslo Paris
OYS TER PER PE TUA L E X PLOR ER II
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Neil Webb Neil Webb created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Munich. His eye-catching artwork has previously been commissioned by the BBC, the Guardian and M&C Saatchi, among others. His bold style makes him the perfect illustrator for this cover, inspired by our feature about Munich’s best interiors stores on page 54. It shows a range of home design pieces cleverly incorporated into the cityscape. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
PHOTO: GRACE BIRD
ILLUSTRATION: NEIL WEBB
CONTRIBUTORS
William Lee Adams London-based journalist William Lee Adams has interviewed designers including Diane von Furstenberg, Christian Louboutin and Vivienne Westwood. A former correspondent for Time, he has also contributed to Newsweek, InStyle, Condé Nast Traveler, Monocle and GQ, among other publications. globalblue.com
Emma Johnson Luxury lifestyle writer Emma Johnson specialises in food, fashion, shopping and travel. She was previously managing editor at the City Magazine, and has also written for Exclusively British, Mr H, Canary Wharf, the Mayfair Magazine, Vantage and GL Weekend. She has a weakness for Aspinal totes and Diptyque candles.
Aaron Carline New York-born Aaron Carline, an artworking assistant at SHOP, is passionate about editorial design and zine culture. During his spare time he can often be found in vintage clothing stores searching for rare fnds, watching David Lynch flms or listening to 1990s hip hop.
MUNICH AM MARIENPLATZ Welcome to your GALERIA Kaufhof Pure lifestyle shopping – enjoy the perfect shopping adventure and find top brands in our world of goods. Expect an exclusive selection with individual assortments from the worlds of fashion, beauty, premium watches and jewels and gourmet food as well as the streetwear in our fashion store U.STYLE. If you come from a country outside the EU, please enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof! We also offer the service City Refund and pay out all your German Tax Free Forms. We are looking forward to your visit! Please scan the QRcode with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Munich, Am Marienplatz.
Free WLAN in our store!
Your GALERIA Kaufhof Munich, Am Marienplatz
GALERIA Kaufhof...
... makes you fall in love with Germany
GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne
galeria-kaufhof.de
DOUGL AS.EU
Beauty and more … visi� Europe’� No. 1 perfumery! W E W I L L B E P L E A S E D TO W E LC O M E YO U TO T H E D O U G L A S W O R L D O F B E AU T Y I N M U N I C H : ∙ Neuhauser Straße 3, 089 - 149024700 ∙ Kaufingerstraße 12, 089 - 23241153 ∙ Weinstraße 7, 089 - 2554276 ∙ Theatinerstraße 40, 089 - 295293
Discover a perfumery tradition that dates back more than 100 years, and enjoy Europe’s largest assortment of leading beauty brands – from exclusive fragrances and luxury skin care to trendy color cosmetic products and fashion accessories. With 1,700 perfumeries in 19 countries, we are dedicated to providing excellent services and personal consultation to our customers. Explore our world of beauty! Read more on douglas.eu
FASHION, LIFESTYLE AND MORE
You can find these and other top brands in Karstadt stores in: Berlin: Kurfürstendamm, Schlossstrasse, Charlottenburg, Hermannplatz, Müllerstrasse / Düsseldorf: Schadowstrasse / Frankfurt: Zeil / Hamburg: Mönckebergstrasse / Hanover: Georgstrasse / Leipzig: Petersstrasse / Dresden: Prager Strasse / Cologne: Breite Strasse / Munich: Bahnhofplatz / Nuremberg: An der Lorenzkirche
Our branches in top central locations in most major German cities provide shoppers with a modern and comfortable environment which makes shopping an experience. Lots of customers are attracted by not only strong brands but also our outstanding advisory service and innovative events. Enjoy your next shopping spree on a journey of discovery through our Karstadt stores. Open until 8 p.m.
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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Neil Webb Contributors Emma Johnson, William Lee Adams, Josh Sims Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Fashion intern Danielle De Wolfe News editor Rebecca Davies Assistant news editor Theresa Harold Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Charlotte Rogers Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yangzi Liang, Manqing Li Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak
GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Head of commercial Europe/ Latin America Pier Francesco Nervini Head of commercial Central Europe Ronald Christen Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialists Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko Sales manager Pino Dufter Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Tourismusamt München, Sendlingerstrasse 1, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2339 6500, muenchen-tourist.de
AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian
Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Olivia Chou, Sammy Ha
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue
TRACY K. SMITH PULITZER PRIZE WINNER WEARING THE ICONIC GANT SHIRT, LAUNCHED AT EAST COAST UNIVERSITIES IN 1949.
THEY CHANGED THE WORLD. NOT THE SHIRT.
GANT.COM
S H I R T M A K E R S
S I N C E
GANT STORES MÜNCHEN FLAGSHIP STORE HOFSTATT – SENDLINGER STRASSE 10 AIRPORT MÜNCHEN TERMINAL 2 EBENE 4 AIRSIDE
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CONTENTS Products
Features
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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Munich this season My Favourites Boulezar’s Sebastian Kaiser reveals his top tips for spring/summer 2016 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
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News 42 44
Shop Window One store not to be missed in Munich News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
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Cover story: Designed For Life When it comes to shopping for the home, Munich is Germany’s style capital. Josh Sims reveals the interiors stores that should be on every visitor’s list Man About Town Munich’s high-quality stores offer a rich mix of everything from traditional Bavarian jackets to more fashion-forward options for men. Emma Johnson seeks out the most inspiring Power Dressing Fusing influences from across the decades, Munich-based designer Marcel Ostertag creates bold, modern apparel for strong women, as William Lee Adams reports
PHOTO: FORSTER & MARTIN
p.54
Above: a display at Room to Dream, one of Munich’s inspiring design stores
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CONTENTS
p.91
Experience Al Fresco Feasts Munich’s delis and cafés offer an array of treats for an indulgent picnic, says Theresa Harold
PHOTO: JENS BRUCHHAUS
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Guide 85
Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Munich
Essentials
Translations
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100 Русский Перевод 107 美文翻译 113
How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
Souvenir 114 The essential item to bring home
ENGLISH | Р УС С К И Й | 中 文
VISIT US ONLINE...
The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com
Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru
FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent Above: the Christian Louboutin store in Munich, the label’s first in Germany
PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
globalblue.cn 每日更新最佳奢 侈品购物和旅游资讯
MUNICH Rosenstrasse 6 Pasing Arcaden calvinklein.com
aunt
Justin Bieber, Musician
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CHECK OUT
ALL SQUARE This structured zip-top leather bag from Radley is both sophisticated and practical, making it an excellent choice whether you’re travelling for business or pleasure. The zipped front pocket features a distinctive punched design; there are more pockets inside the main compartment for storing a tablet, phone and purse. Since Radley Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 99
was founded in 1998 by Lowell Harder, who remains its creative director, the British brand has become known for its covetable handbags, purses and other accessories, along with its Scottish terrier logo, which features on many of its products. fm Radley Clerkenwell Punch bag, â‚Ź309, Karstadt, Bahnhofplatz 7, 80335 Munich, +49 (0)89 55120, radley.co.uk FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 88
Munich: Neuturmstraße 5 • Theatinerstraße 33
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MY FAVOURITES: Boulezar Sebastian Kaiser founded Boulezar in 2011 with the aim of creating ethical casual clothing with a luxury feel. Its designs are informed by German tailoring, but with an original, contemporary style, and everything is made by skilled local manufacturers, using responsibly sourced artisanal fabrics of the highest quality. Comfort, rather than the latest trends, is at the core of everything Kaiser creates for the label. He shares his insider tips for spring/ summer 2016 with Ximena Daneri boulezar.com
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1. ‘The Matchbox suede blouson in oxblood, with stretch silk on the inside, is inspired by the early 70s and will last a lifetime’ Boulezar Matchbox jacket, €1,169, Slips, Gärtnerplatz 2, 80469 Munich, +49 (0)89 202 2500, boulezar.com
2 ‘My bracelet from Werkstatt München is made from solid silver and is therefore pretty heavy. But I love the details and the artisanal skills and the look’ Werkstatt München Curb Chain Tool Traces bracelet, €910, Hide-m, Steinstrasse 68, 81667 Munich, +49 (0)172 811 1704, werkstatt-münchen.com; by appointment only
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 99
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3. ‘Konstantin Grcic’s Chair One with a concrete pedestal is a design classic’ Magis Chair One, €547, Designfunktion, Leopoldstrasse 121, 80804 Munich, +49 (0)89 306 3070, magis-design.com
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4. ‘I never travel without our Karma Man hoodie in a cashmere and merino mix. Good design is not only beautiful but also functional’ Boulezar Karma Man hoodie, €749, Apropos, Promenadeplatz 12, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2429 2141, boulezar.com
5. ‘At the moment Common Projects is my favourite shoe brand. It has an amazing design team, which knows how to create an understated, classic look’ Common Projects shoes, from €375, net-a-porter.com
6. ‘Chanel’s Bleu de Chanel is my favourite fragrance’ Chanel Bleu de Chanel fragrance, €69, Douglas, Theatinerstrasse 40, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 295293, chanel.com
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globalblue.com
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SHINE ON Metallic tones take your outfit from day to night; wear them as a total look combining jewellery, accessories and even technology
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1. Tod’s belt, €390, Tod’s, Maximilianstrasse 21, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2429 7693, tods.com
3. Chopard watch, price on request, Chopard, Maximilianstrasse 11, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 224343, chopard.com
2. Apple iPhone 6S, from €744.95, Apple, Rosenstrasse 1, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2421 45000, apple.com
4. Coccinelle bag, €309, Ludwig Beck, Marienplatz 11, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 236910, coccinelle.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 99
5. Dodo necklace, from €190, Pomellato, Maximilianstrasse 34, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2102 0382, dodo.it
PHOTOS: (3) CHOPARD/HARALD FUCHS; (4) ICPHOTOGRAPHIE MILANO; (8) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY
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6. Swarovski earrings, €79, Swarovski, Neuhauser Strasse 37, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2694 9982, swarovski.com 7. Miu Miu wallet, €590, Oberpollinger, Neuhauser Strasse 18, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 290230, miumiu.com
globalblue.com
8. Jimmy Choo shoes, €700, Jimmy Choo, Maximilianstrasse 16, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 5007 7960, jimmychoo.com
9. Airfield dress, €259, Airfeld, Theatinerstrasse 46, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2111 1977, airfeld.at
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BRIGHT LIGHT Lift a simple day-to-day look with glittering accessories
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1. Cada rings, €4,850 (aquamarine), €16,900 (tourmaline), Cada, Fünf Höfe, Mafeistrasse 8, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 255 4270, cada-schmuck.de
3. Gucci bag, €2,800, Schwittenberg, Salvatorplatz 4, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2601 9055, gucci.com
2. Bulgari watch, from €40,000, Bulgari, Maximilianstrasse 17, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 212 1760, bulgari.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 99
4. Marc O’Polo trench coat, €699.90, Marc O’Polo, Theatinerstrasse 11, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2554 6690, marc-o-polo.com
PHOTO: (3) DANIELA SMILARE
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URBAN RENEWAL Mix fun prints with classic styles for the ultimate daytime look
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1. Benetton jacket, €119, United Colors of Benetton, Kaufngerstrasse 15, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2601 9470, benetton.com
3. Victorinox watch, €595, Galeria Kaufhof, Kaufngerstrasse 1-5, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 231851, victorinox.com
2. Porsche Design bag, €650, Porsche Design, Dienerstrasse 17, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2101 9735, porsche-design.com
4. Calvin Klein crew neck sweatshirt, €99, Hirmer, Kaufnger Strasse 28, 80311 Munich, +49 (0)89 236830, calvinklein.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 99
5. Roeckl gloves, €159, Roeckl, Mafeistrasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2916 8239, roeckl.com
Porsche Design
1919 DATETIMER ALL TITANIUM – The art of reduction. Perfection in form and function. Designed in Austria. Swiss Made.
E V E R Y T H I N G T H AT D R I V E S M E N Welcome to the world of Porsche Design. A world that stays eternally young, fresh, and cool by passionately driving for innovation. A world where new quality materials, technologies, and fi nest functional elegance blend into a truly exclusive, iconic contemporary design. Some call it luxury? We call it essentials for a challenging future. www.porsche-design.com
Munich | Dienerstraße 17
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MODERN PRINCESS Combine unexpected items for a chic and original result
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1. Escada jacket, €399, Escada, Maximilianstrasse 25, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 219 9650, escada.com 2. Salvatore Ferragamo shoes, €1,090, Salvatore Ferragamo, Maximilianstrasse 29, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2916 0911, ferragamo.com
3. Pomellato necklace, €1,500, Pomellato, Maximilianstrasse 34, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2102 0382, pomellato.it 4. Saint Laurent bag, €2,350, Saint Laurent, Maximilianstrasse 24, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 9699 7990, ysl.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 99
5. Marc Cain skirt, €149, Marc Cain, Odeonsplatz 12, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 212 1250, marc-cain.com
PHOTO: (5) ESHOT BERLIN
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SHOP WINDOW
MAKING A SPLASH Pool concept store has been an insiders’ hotspot since it frst opened more than 20 years ago. Beginning as a clubwear-cum-record shop, it has become one of Munich’s top destinations for those looking for luxury fashion with a twist, along with an equally inspiring selection of home accessories, beauty products, music, fragrance and books. The boutique stocks a mixture of up-and-coming talents and Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 99
high-end designer brands. This season’s womenswear highlights include Moschino, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Rick Owens and Dsquared2; for men, Balmain, Neil Barrett and Valentino are among the names to note. rd Pool, Maximilianstrasse 11, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 266035, verypoolish.com
* FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 93
WINDSOR.DE WINDSOR. STORE MUNICH DIENERSTR. 16 80331 MUNICH DAILY HOURS MONDAY TO FRIDAY 10.00-19.00 SATURDAY 10.00-18.00
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IN BRIEF Dutch lingerie brand HunkemĂśller opened a new Munich boutique in January 2016. The longestablished label is known for its impeccably designed underwear in an array of styles, as well as its equally tempting range of sportswear and swimwear
NATURAL BEAUTY
KEEP IT GREEN
Aesop continues its expansion in Germany with the opening of a store in Munich. The stunning space, created in collaboration with local architects Einszu33, features an outsized concrete point-of-sale counter, a tiered concrete ceiling and shiny screed foors. The irresistible plant-based skin, bath, hair and body products are displayed on aged brass and slender marble shelving, which seems to hang from the ceiling. Trained consultants are on hand to guide customers through the products, which are not only of the highest quality, but also smell heavenly. rd Aesop, Maximiliansplatz 10, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 255 4701, aesop.com * FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 94
At innovative concept store Phasenreich, sustainability is the order of the day. The fashion and lifestyle boutique focuses on labels and suppliers who guarantee that the environmental impact of what they make is kept as low as possible, without compromising on style. Among the eco-friendly brands in store are local new arrival Neon Lachs, Nurmi and Recolution. As well as clothing, visitors can browse old records, and seek out original and unique gift ideas. The cafĂŠ ofers fair trade cofee, alongside organic cakes, salads and sandwiches. rd Phasenreich, Baaderstrasse 33, 80469 Munich, +49 (0)89 5526 7138, phasenreich.com
Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 99
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Rosenthal is a longestablished destination for top-quality porcelain, glass, gifts, accessories and cutlery, with a history that dates back to 1879. The brand frequently produces luxury collaborations and a current highlight is the Rosenthal and Versace collection. The result is as richly coloured and baroque as one would imagine, with opulent designs that include the Medusa head frequently featured in Versace designs. Rosenthal’s Munich store is well worth a visit, whether you are looking to buy a full dinner service or a luxurious gift, or simply browse for interior ideas. rd Rosenthal, Schäferhof, Theatinerstrasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 222617, rosenthal.de
* FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 94
PHOTO: ROBERT HAAS
PHOTO: RAHI REZVANI
PERFECT PORCELAIN
globalblue.com
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THE MIDAS TOUCH
TO BE TREASURED Nymphenburg has been producing exquisite handcrafted porcelain for more than 260 years, and its products continue to be made using time-honoured techniques handed down from generation to generation. Visit the elegant Munich boutique to admire the beauty and craftsmanship of its fgurines and tableware, seen in traditional designs such as the Pearl collection, which was originally reserved exclusively for the company’s aristocratic founders, as well as more contemporary lines. Look out, too, for the pieces – from avant-garde tea sets to minimalist letter openers – created in collaboration with an impressive range of artists and fashion designers, including Vivienne Westwood and Olaf Nicolai, as well as the unusual porcelain jewellery. th Nymphenburg, Odeonsplatz 1, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 282428, nymphenburg.com
* FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 94 globalblue.com
IN BRIEF The StellaSport spring/summer 2016 collection for Adidas is a riot of colour and energy. The brand’s playful spirit is encapsulated in rainbow lettering, tie-dye details and graphic rose prints – a good look on the street or in the gym
Renowned American fashion house Michael Kors has launched the Gold Collection range of fragrances (50ml, €78), three perfumes inspired by this precious metal and available exclusively at Douglas pharmacies in Germany. It was conceived with the Michael Kors woman in mind, who is glamorous, elegant and represented perfectly by this luxury material. White Luminous Gold is a refreshing and sensual blend of pear, jasmine and amber – a light and exotic scent. Rose Radiant Gold features foral notes, fresh spices and a hint of musk. Finally, 24k Brilliant Gold is feminine and seductive, with a refreshing woody aroma. Which one will you choose? hl Douglas, Theatinerstrasse 40, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 295293, michaelkors.com
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READ ALL ABOUT IT Every design-focused city needs a comprehensive magazine and bookshop to keep creativity fowing. But, despite having a thriving publishing culture, Munich was missing an independent store of this kind until 12 years ago, when Sebastian Steinacker set up Soda on his return from London, after fnishing his fashion studies at Central Saint Martins. Located in a part of Munich known for its clothing boutiques and furniture emporia, it stocks a wide and eclectic selection of art and design books and just about every internationally produced creativethemed magazine you can think of including Pop, Garage, Wonderland, i-D and L’Ofciel. rd
SHOCK DEVELOPMENT Family-run Hieber specialises in jewellery and timepieces and, as the only retail partner of Casio’s G-Shock watch in Munich, is a must-visit for horophiles. Launched in 1983, the G-Shock watch was revolutionary. At a time when watches were considered delicate instruments, the G-Shock was intended to be Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 99
Soda, Rumfordstrasse 3, 80469 Munich, +49 (0)89 2024 5353, sodabooks.com
* FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 92
almost indestructible, with triple protection design for the parts, module and case. The watch’s durability and distinctive look led to its popularity in the early 1990s; the new MTG-G1000 model (pictured; €1,400) is the frst metal analogue G-Shock to use both GPS and radio signal for maximum precision. th Hieber, Donnersbergerstrasse 36, 80634 Munich, +49 (0)89 165236, g-shock.com
BOGNER MĂœNCHEN
Residenzstrasse 15
bogner.com
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NATURALLY CHIC Local clothing label Oska creates simple, elegant and contemporary womenswear using high-quality natural materials. Its spring/summer collection features luxurious fabrics including cool linen and soft cotton; bold colours such as indigo, cobalt and orange; and strong, often Asian-inspired silhouettes. The eminently wearable pieces are created as sustainably as possible, often using fabrics created exclusively for Oska, and are designed to last for several seasons, mixing and matching perfectly with items from previous collections. km Oska, Fünf Höfe, Mafeistrasse 6, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 1590 9530, oska.com
* FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 95
CARRIED AWAY Fashion’s love afair with the backpack shows no signs of fading, and Munich accessory brand MCM has one of the best selections around. Its store in Brienner Strasse is lined with backpacks in almost every imaginable colour and fnish, from classic black and tan to metallics and baby pink, such as the one pictured (€1,225), all made to the highest standard from top-quality leather. Details such as chunky fastenings and studding have become a signature of the brand; keep an eye out, too, for bags featuring the label’s distinctive Cognac Visetos monogram pattern. rd MCM, Brienner Strasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2420 7622, mcmworldwide.com
* FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 94 Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 99
Schuster – the Sports Brand Store. Here is a selection of our 500 brands:
SPORTHAUS SCHUSTER
MUNICH – RIGHT AT MARIENPLATZ ROSENSTRASSE 3–5
ONLINESHOP: WWW.SPORT-SCHUSTER.DE
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DANISH DELIGHTS Visitors to Munich should be sure to seek out the Georg Jensen fagship store. The Danish company has a long history in Germany, having opened its frst store outside Denmark in Berlin in 1909, and the new Munich location is one of the brand’s most impressive boutiques. The design of the store fuses art deco infuences with minimalist Scandinavian design, providing a stylish backdrop to the brand’s array of fne jewellery, watches, men’s accessories and pieces for the home. hl Georg Jensen, Mafeistrasse 4, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2420 4690, georgjensen.com
* FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 95
MARVELLOUS MULBERRY Best known for luxury leather bags, Mulberry, based in Somerset in the UK, has built a global reputation for quality and timeless design. The Piccadilly bag, the largest member of the iconic Bayswater family, is an instantly recognisable classic. Shown here in oxblood natural leather (€1,760), it features Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 99
a postman’s lock fastening, a hidden padlock and an interior belt strap to allow for easy expansion. Three internal pockets also add to the practicality of this holdall; 34cm high and 50cm wide, it is a stylish option for any city break or weekend getaway. th Oberpollinger, Neuhauser Strasse 18, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2902 4816, mulberry.com
* FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 88
TOM TAILOR Store Hofstatt/F 채 r bergrabe n 1 6 , M u n ich
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Above: English caption xxxxx qui officiducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi quis cum facil
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DESIGNED FOR LIFE When it comes to shopping for the home, Munich is Germany’s style capital. Josh Sims reveals the interiors stores that should be on every visitor’s list
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Left: Pulpo Oda floor lamp
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PHOTO: (BOTTOM RIGHT) MARC EGGIMANN, © VITRA (WWW.VITRA.COM)
ith a population of some 3.5 million, Berlin is – as much for its cultural heritage as its populace – inevitably an important centre for the arts. That’s to be expected. Munich, on the other hand, is home to just 1.4 million people. It is comparatively small and quiet. Not a place for the progressive, one might imagine. Unless, that is, you happen to be outftting your home. For Munich – disproportionately to its size or cultural heft – is arguably one of Germany’s epicentres for design shopping. From furniture and homeware to decorative knickknacks, the city is teeming with boutiques, from the modest to the massive, ofering the best in both classic and contemporary design for life. Kustermann, one of the city’s landmark stores, can trace its history back to 1798. It once had its own foundry, which supplied the iron that built Munich’s railway station as well as many of its bridges and even
Above (clockwise from bottom left): Kustermann; the store’s homeware department; Vitra Eames plastic chair by Charles and Ray Eames
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Soft Little Heavy chair, or even a rare Eames bent plywood leg splint, useful when you’ve pounded the city’s shopping streets a little too hard. Thiersch 15, part store, part gallery, sells products from an impressive array of some 70-plus contemporary design brands. From German names such as Müller to Italy’s DePadova and Denmark’s Carl Hansen, everything here is chosen for its modern, accomplished design. As for the store itself, the white-walled space is a calm and contemplative environment in which to consider your purchases. But why are these stores congregating in Munich? ‘People outside Munich might be surprised to find a store of this size and kind in the city,’ says Kustermann’s marketing manager Jasmin Javid. But, she adds, it makes sense. ‘Relative to Berlin, Munich is conservative, but most of the people here
PHOTO: ANDREAS BRÜCKLMAIR
manhole covers. The store specialises in design for the home, or what it calls ‘living and table culture’: glasses, ceramics, cutlery, table and cookware. More than this, it is the largest store of its kind in Germany. If modern classics are more your thing, head to Koton and explore the end of the design spectrum favoured by Berlin’s hipsters. Here you’ll discover products you won’t find easily anywhere else. Among the standout pieces from some of the biggest design manufacturers, including Knoll, Verpan, Artek and Vitra, are Panton chairs in a limited-edition green, Eames dining chairs in a limited-edition grey, a special edition of the Eames aluminium series lounger and footstool, and even items by contemporary designers, such as the Cypris mirror by architect Nina Mair. Koton also carries an impressive array of vintage pieces. Pick up a George Nelson roll-top desk, a Ron Arad
Above: Müller PS04 secretary table
PHOTO: Š CLASSICON/MARKUS BSTIELER
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Above (from top): DePadova chairs; Cypris mirror designed by Nina Mair
From furniture to homeware, the city is teeming with boutiques offering the best in both classic and contemporary design for life Above: Gallotti & Radice Venere vanity unit
are very well educated … in fact, Munich is one of the wealthiest cities in Germany. So the population has the money and the interest to spend on design products. And they tend to have the big houses to put them in.’ Yet this does not mean that Munich’s design stores lean towards the predictable – they offer the work of less well-established names, too. Go to Ben’s, for example, for the hard-to-find glass and steel furniture of Italian maker Gallotti & Radice, or glass lighting from Pulpo, a company working with a number of German designers, such
GERMAN LIFESTYLE LUGGAGE
w w w. t i t a n - b a g s . c o m
PHOTO: FORSTER & MARTIN
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as Peter Raacke, Sybille Pfeiffer and Harry Thaler. At Magazin, you’ll find the likes of Flos, Luceplan and Munich-based designer Ingo Maurer, but also all manner of interiors products of the company’s own design. Go smaller still and at 1260 Grad you can discover the ceramic, porcelain and stoneware pieces – made on site – of designer Petra Fischer, who opened her shop some 15 years ago. ‘Smaller independent design stores are opening up in Munich more and more now because people are getting tired of seeing the same products wherever they go all over the world. When they come to Munich they want to Above: Room to Dream store
discover something,’ says Sabine Stadtherr, a knitwear designer who opened her store Room to Dream just two years ago. As well as her own custom knitted pieces, from pot-holders to throws, the store specialises in Scandinavian pieces that Stadtherr collates on her travels. ‘The lighter, simpler Scandinavian style is taking off in Germany now, even if it takes a little longer for trends to get to here in the south,’ she jokes. ‘I moved from fashion to interiors because it is less faddish, a little slower. It’s a world in which people want to invest in things they will live with for a long time, and not just throw away after a season.’
PHOTO: © CONNY MIRBACH
MAN ABOUT TOWN Munich’s high-quality stores ofer a rich mix of everything from traditional Bavarian jackets and classic suits to more fashionforward options for men. Emma Johnson seeks out the most inspiring
PHOTO: © HIRMER/ROBERT SPRANG - RSFOTOGRAFIE.COM
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PHOTO: © HIRMER
hen it comes to menswear, Munich is known for classic style coupled with a playful edge. Local labels and modern designer brands are a big draw here, but at the same time, good tailoring, sharp suits and traditional materials still hold their own. ‘Munich is a surprisingly diverse and young city, and the lively and wide-ranging men’s fashion scene refects this,’ says Frank Troch, CEO of Hirmer, one of the largest men’s fashion stores in the world. Housed in an impressive historical building on Kaufngerstrasse and spread over six foors, Hirmer is a landmark in Munich, and its dedicated personal shoppers, sameday alterations service and regular fashion shows make it an essential stop on a Munich shopping tour. The key retail areas around Maximilianstrasse and Theatinerstrasse Previous page: A Kind of Guise interior Above (both): inside the Hirmer store on Kaufingerstrasse
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PHOTO: ERIKA-KOCH-FOTOS.DE
offer everything from Louis Vuitton, Dior, Valentino and Gucci to Acne, Lacoste, Ermenegildo Zegna and Maison Margiela, while the revamped Burberry flagship, which is inspired by London’s Regent Street store, has been causing quite a stir. It’s a digital fashion wonderland – large video walls broadcast brand events and catwalks shows, while staff carry iPads for access to worldwide stock – and its new collect-in-store service is perfect if you’re making only a flying visit to Munich, while those with more time will appreciate the dedicated menswear tailoring area. Opposite Burberry you’ll find the Fünf Höfe shopping centre, which hosts a great range of menswear brands including Baldessarini and Boggi Milano, while less than a 10-minute walk away is Oberpollinger. With around 34,000 square metres of shopping space, it still manages to retain an exclusive,
Above (from top): Oberpollinger department store; Fünf Höfe shopping centre
PHOTO: © A KIND OF GUISE
luxury feel and is renowned as one of Munich’s best department stores. Also worth a visit is nearby Ludwig Beck, which is as beautiful as its stock. Offering everything from classical music and clothes to furniture and accessories, it’s an inspirational place to wander round. For those in search of more independent stores and local designers, look out for the likes of Hannibal, a young Munich-based brand, and A Kind of Guise, whose clothing and accessories are made in Germany using materials from across the world. Other places to seek out include Schwittenberg, which is good for local labels; menswear specialist Wormland; and Stereo, just opposite the Fünf Höfe shopping centre, which carries interesting German brands and has a café upstairs. Away from the centre of town, you’ll find a real hidden gem: Harvest, Philip Stolte’s menswear concept store. The founder came up with the idea for his graphic design diploma, and was then able to put it into practice on the site of his father’s own atelier. Located in Schwabing, the store stocks brands such as Folk, Our Legacy, Comme des Garçons
Above (clockwise from top): A Kind of Guise spring/summer 2016; the brand’s Munich store; Burberry store
PHOTO: © CONNY MIRBACH
PHOTO: BURBERRY DEUTSCHLAND
There’s a distinctive open-minded approach to style in Munich when it comes to menswear
Bavaria, A wealth of unique and original attractions, of destinations treasured by visitors both native and foreign. In the official museum shops of the Bavarian palaces, buying a gift becomes an experience that rounds off the visit to the Bavarian attractions and provides long-lasting memories. The official shops in Nymphenburg Palace and Munich Residence.
www.kulturgut.de
PHOTOS: JULIAN HENZLER/JULIANPHOTO.NET
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Above (both): Harvest store
and Indnat and is popular with creative types and Munich insiders, who are attracted to the exclusive, independent vibe. ‘I think what sets us apart is our approach,’ says Stolte, ‘which is not just focused on retail, but on the experience. Sure, it’s important that we sell our products, but we’re more interested in keeping our customers curious about our projects and content.’ Even traditional German wear has found its way into the local fashion psyche, often with a modern touch. ‘What makes Munich so special is that all generations are drawn to traditional Bavarian clothing, such as lederhosen and trachtenjacke, especially at events such as Oktoberfest,’ explains Yolanda Ng, a Munichbased fashion designer who also runs streetstyle blog Von Zwei. One of the best places to find these items is Lodenfrey. The shop was founded in 1842 and still uses water-resistant loden cloth in its traditional clothing, as well as stocking contemporary fashion by German and international brands.
PHOTO: OSMA HARVILAHTI
PHOTO: YOLANDA NG/VONZWEI.COM
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While there is clearly no typical Munich look, there is a distinctive open-minded approach to style. Throughout the city, this classic-meets-contemporary influence can be seen in everything from the international fashion powerhouses to small boutiques and independent designers, making this a vibrant shopping destination. As Hirmer’s Troch explains, ‘The variety of high-quality stores combined with the typical Munich flair, the beauty of the city and its quality of life make Munich very special, and we are seeing a growing number of visitors coming here, not only for sightseeing, but more and more for shopping.’
Above (clockwise from top left): Munich street style on the Von Zwei blog; Lacoste; Acne Studios, both spring/summer 2016
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POWER DRESSING Fusing infuences from across the decades, Munich-based designer Marcel Ostertag creates bold, modern apparel for strong women, as William Lee Adams reports
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Left: Marcel Ostertag spring/summer 2016
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In Ostertag’s spring/ summer 2016 collection, the simple silhouettes and colouring create an aesthetic that is at once traditional, modern and strong Above (both): Marcel Ostertag spring/summer 2016
PHOTO: (LEFT) ALEXANDER KOERNER/GETTY IMAGES FOR MARCEL OSTERTAG
hen dreaming up his spring/summer 2016 collection, German designer Marcel Ostertag took inspiration from nature. He remembers watching a television report about volcanoes, which led him to think of natural vistas and, ultimately, great stretches of sand such as the Sahara. That landscape may appear barren from a distance, but look closely enough and you’ll find texture, colour and light, all of which manifest in Ostertag’s latest collection, called Desert. Playing with sandy tones, beige, fuchsia and dark blue, it is full of life and vigour. Stunning desert motifs, which move from dark brown to golden yellow, cover kaftan dresses and urban bomber jackets. The colour shift
represents a sunrise. Elsewhere, dresses feature large pockets, silk crêpe de Chine body-con skirts have slits in the side, and flared beige trousers made of lace conjure up images of a luxury safari. The simple silhouettes and colouring create an aesthetic that is at once traditional, modern and strong. ‘I love to play with gender,’ Ostertag says. ‘Strong women need strong, elegant clothes. In many of my coat designs I play with details from the military. It has to be the perfect symbiosis between feminine and masculine details.’ Born in 1979 in Berchtesgaden, a village in the Bavarian Alps, Ostertag began sketching clothes at the age of five. Noticing his burgeoning design talent, his mother Above (from left): designer Marcel Ostertag; a bomber jacket from his spring/summer 2016 collection
PHOTO: ALEXANDER KOERNER/GETTY IMAGES FOR MARCEL OSTERTAG
PHOTO: © SEEN BY FRANK LÜBKE
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and grandmother taught him to crochet, knit and sew. Unaware it was possible to make a living as a fashion designer, he spent his teenage years dancing and, at 18, was awarded a contract with a dance company. But fate intervened: he injured his knee, which forced him to reconsider his career options. He ended up working as a model and, through a series of jobs in London, discovered Central Saint Martins, whose famous alumni include Alexander McQueen, Zac Posen and Phoebe Philo. He enrolled to pursue first a degree and then a master’s in fashion and collaborated on projects with Paul Smith, Dunhill and Burberry. His graduation collections generated significant media attention, and he won several awards. Encouraged by the teaching staff, he set up his eponymous label in 2006. Although he credits his time in London as making him the designer he is today, he chose to base himself in Munich, where he works in a former sound studio that once hosted the likes of Queen and the Rolling Stones. ‘Glockenbachviertel is an inspiring neighbourhood,’ he says. ‘My studio is more like a family home than a work space.’ His growing international profile is built on solid German craftsmanship. ‘Every single piece is produced in Germany,’ he says, adding that most of the garments are made in surrounding Bavaria. He does so out of a respect for sustainability, but also as a part of quality control. ‘I think it’s really important for my customers to know where and how the collection is made.’ Ostertag’s collections are known for wit and whimsy, and also for mixing trends from across decades. From narrowly cut shift dresses with multicoloured geometrical divisions and leather applications, to faux fur jackets with oversized collars, Ostertag routinely fuses the modern and the traditional. ‘My collections are mostly inspired by the 70s and 80s because the image from women during this time is really strong and sophisticated,’ he says. ‘I adore strong women. Researching the music and art scene during those years excites me a lot.’ It gives his clothes broad appeal – and not only among women who lived through those decades. Above and right: Marcel Ostertag spring/summer 2016
PHOTOS: ALEXANDER KOERNER/GETTY IMAGES FOR MARCEL OSTERTAG
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Ostertag’s collections are known for wit and whimsy, and also for mixing trends from across decades
PHOTO: ALEXANDER KOERNER/GETTY IMAGES FOR MARCEL OSTERTAG
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‘The Marcel Ostertag woman is between 16 and 88,’ he says. His collections are never predictable. In the past he has created tie-dye-like prints and colour-blocked tops, and accentuated maxidresses and skirts with chiffon, sequins and fringe. Describing his work, he sums up those extra touches beautifully: ‘Crystals, diamonds, studs, pearls and blossoming flowers explode like fireworks in your mind.’ Ostertag himself says that of all his work across trousers, gowns, barely there blouses and more, it’s his coats that stand out to customers. ‘All of my clients have at least one in their closets,’ he says. And what else do they have in common? ‘They love the high quality standards I work with. Really special women need a really special service. And this is what I offer.’ Above (all): Marcel Ostertag spring/summer 2016
u.v.a. KONEN ofers fashion, lifestyle, inspiration and more for women and men. Discover our assortment on 6 floors. You will fnd KONEN in the city center of Munich, next to the pedestrian area „Sendlinger Straße“. Our customer service for you: express alterations and TaxFree shopping. We are looking forward to your visit!
KONEN Sendlinger Straße 3
80331 München Mo–Sa 10–20 Uhr www.konen.de
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AL FRESCO FEASTS Nothing says summer quite like a picnic in the park. Happily, there are plenty of places in Munich to stock up on food for a relaxed meal in the open air, as Theresa Harold discovers
If you’re visiting Munich during the summer, make the most of the longer days and warmer weather by eating outside. One of the best things about the city is the huge number of public parks and green spaces where you can throw down a blanket and enjoy a leisurely outdoor meal. The key to a successful picnic is all in the details: transportable food and chilled drinks from the city’s delis and cake shops, and a scenic location. With its secluded paths, sweeping lawns and picturesque follies, the Englischer Garten in the heart of the city is a classic choice for a spot of al fresco eating. Thanks to the presence of several beer gardens, once your hamper is empty you can always quench your thirst with an ice-cold Höfbrau or Paulaner. Alternatively, head to Olympiapark where there is an open-air theatre throughout the summer. Arrive early to reserve a good spot, then tuck into your basket of treats and enjoy live music long into the evening. globalblue.com
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PHOTO: J.HERIBERT POHL CC BY-SA 2.0
ENGLISCHER GARTEN Spanning just under four square kilometres, the Englischer Garten (‘English garden’) is one of the largest urban public parks in Europe. It was created in 1789 by Sir Benjamin Thompson and has roughly 75 kilometres of footpaths and bridleways. The Monopteros, a Greek-style temple (pictured), is just one of the many interesting sights and attractions within the park. Visitors could also try surfng in one of the artifcial streams fowing through the Englischer Garten, or spend a quiet afternoon by the lake at the heart of the park, the Kleinhesseloher See. Englischer Garten, Englischer Garten 2, 80538 Munich, +49 (0)89 3866 6390, schloesser.bayern.de
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CAFÉ LUITPOLD
Located in the Brienner Quartier, Café Luitpold is a great place to pick up homemade pastries and some cofee to take away. Be sure to check out its famous Luitpoldtorte, which was created in 1962 by then master confectioner Paul Buchner. This six-layered sponge cake is flled with a mixture of marzipan and buttercream favoured with white wine and cognac, and coated with Belgian dark chocolate, and remains one of the café’s most popular confections. Café Luitpold, Brienner Strasse 11, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 242 8750, cafe-luitpold.de DA L L M AY R
As one of Germany’s most famous and traditional delicatessens, Dallmayr has a lot to live up to – and still manages to exceed expectations. Its breathtaking array of gourmet foods includes everything you could possibly need for a picnic, from wild boar terrine and olives to pastries and chocolate trufes. And if the weather isn’t right for al fresco entertainments, Dallmayr’s other temptations include a restaurant, bistro and champagne bar. Dallmayr, Dienerstrasse 14-15, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 21350, dallmayr.de globalblue.com
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RISCHART
Founded in 1883, Rischart is a Munich mainstay with 14 branches dotted around the city. Today, it is run by the ffth generation of the Rischart family and caters to eight million customers a year; as the largest branch, the bakery at Marienplatz alone serves 1.2 million people annually. Ofering everything from baguettes and rye bread to pretzels and lemon cake – all freshly baked the same day – this is an excellent place to pick up any picnicking essentials. Rischart, Marienplatz 18, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2317 00320, rischart.de CAFÉ KREUTZKAMM
No picnic is complete without a dessert to round it of, which is where Kreutzkamm comes in. Founded in Dresden in 1825, Kreutzkamm produces a delectable range of cakes, biscuits and chocolates, which is available at its Munich café. Its Prinzregententorte is a local speciality, and is made with seven layers of sponge cake flled with chocolate buttercream, designed to represent the seven administrative districts of Bavaria. Café Kreutzkamm, Pacellistrasse 5, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2288 0300, kreutzkamm.de
THE WORLD’S LARGEST MEN’S FASHION STORE
In the heart of Munich HIRMER offers fashion highlights spread over 9,000 m2 of shopping experience. On 6 foors you will fnd the entire world of menswear with all leading brands:
1 Minute vom City-Parkhaus Färbergraben
HIRMERMENSTYLE
HIRMER GmbH & Co. KG I Kaufngerstraße 28 I 80331 München Phone: + 49 89 236830 I www.hirmer-muenchen.de Opening hours: Mo. til Fr.: 9.30 a. m. til 8 p. m. I Sa.: 9 a. m. til 8 p. m. 24h online shop: www.hirmer.de I -Bahn I -Bahn: Marienplatz
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THE GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Munich with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a fantastic food market to breathtaking jewellery boutiques. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/munich.
PHOTO:NICOLE JUNE CC BY-SA 2.0
A Glimpse of Munich
Above: aerial view over Munich’s historic centre, including the Altes Rathaus with its distinctive tower and the Heilig-Geist-Kirche (Church of the Holy Spirit)
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Danish company Georg Jensen’s Munich boutique, filled with fine jewellery, watches, home accessories and E I NST EINST R. more, is one of its most impressive anywhere in the world. MAX-WEBER-PLATZ Georg Jensen, Maffeistrasse 4, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2420 4690, georgjensen.com
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FEATURED ON PAGE 52
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Phasenreich
GERMAN MUSEUM City Hilton
ROSENHEIMER PLATZ
Concept store Phasenreich is a café, fashion and lifestyle destination that focuses on ethical and environmentally friendly goods and practices. Phasenreich, Baaderstrasse 33, 80469 Munich, +49 (0)89 5526 7138, phasenreich.com FEATURED ON PAGE 44
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● ODESSA E K JUWELIER STACHUSBLEIHOLDER ● BIEBL BESTECKE ● U PRÄSENTE ● APOTHEKE Basement Stachus Karstadt P.30 ● GAMESTOP MAIN STATION
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Rosenstrasse & Sendlinger Strasse SE R HE AC SB ES M EL HR K M TI RE R NA ● TE S OP L T ER ● A R CK L EISH A N NG C M LI ● RO E AU T RO B UL ● S EK -B TIC ● EL UT OP ● KA ● TZ I n E Y ne WE AC K E AB Ko HÖN EJ HF E E● RT OT H T S SL SC O UH R ● CC O P N ER A CH O E E● ● THE LER T SP BI CH LM R - S PA OM IT ● ● AD NE TE C R & F RY ● PLA ET D ER ● CH R TR ● RI AB PE AS D ID T ● RI SU F AD AN O ● E JB G ST ● R HS I BO EU P PH ● O AT HO -GA ME LI BE Y S YD DE ● OD L LO CO R EB TH TTE E ● D● TR IBO AN ● ● H RL ER TC LO B E S I LV ● 'PO TIM UIK L● CO RE ● Q AR PA E S R M E AP AL X ● U ● CK RT A N R E S EO NE A G IC B ZE RE ● ER ● ET E ER MO AM EK HH & CH L ● E ● TH L IS R O PO R F RIKE OE ● A MO IB F DE ● TCH M LE H A T SH ON ● ● A SA E 17 SC EN VISI SE ● ● KAR TZ I AU I N C PR ● G Ö R CO M V KR UR U S UC ● S● S ’ M VI HM ● LIPP OH LE SC ● KAD A● ● DI ● CA IK AR MET S KO
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BUCHERER Bucherer has been known for excellence since it opened its first watch and jewellery boutique in Lucerne in 1888, and today it has stores across the globe. Watch lovers will be interested by the company’s long partnership with Rolex, thanks to which it offers an unrivalled selection of the brand’s watches. Bucherer’s own range of fine jewellery is also not to be missed. Look out for the exquisite La Cerise collection, which includes these ultra-feminine earrings with their intricate decoration of diamonds and tourmalines. Bucherer, Neuhauser Strasse 2, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 298283, bucherer.com
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Marienplatz GE ND UB EL ● SW JG A R M o2 ● H AY E G E OV S R HA RMA KI ● ● ERRE L N R YV LH N Y● OE U E ● RU CK AU S SR BE R ST NN L R A T ● AT ● ER OCH BIJ TE B E H AU OU S PO ER ● R S -A RN BR INT S P TE DIE OT IGI ● I N H TT NE LA EK E● L DE E RS u ● N FR d w TR i EU ● DE g Be A SS AG ck NH E EN A TP US BU RO OP RG VO TIK CA TR TE AS UR S
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LOCAL TIP
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
PHOTO: SANFAMEDIA.COM CC BY-ND 2.0
Discover the best and freshest local produce at the fantastic Viktualienmarkt, the centrally located farmer’s market. Explore the astonishing variety of Bavarian cheeses or sample regional delicacies that include warm pretzels and Bavarian sausage with sweet mustard. Viktualienmarkt, 80331 Munich, viktualienmarkt-muenchen.de Shopping Centre/Mall
Department Store
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CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Shoe lovers will be delighted to know that Germany’s first standalone Christian Louboutin boutique has opened in Munich. The boutique’s concept was conceived by the brand’s eponymous designer, who was inspired by Haus der Kunst minimalism and the Bavarian Landtag’s neo-Renaissance style. Men’s and women’s shoes are on the ground floor, while a mezzanine, overlooking the garden, displays the Christian Louboutin fine leather goods
collection. The bold red carpet is a signature of the brand, reflecting the iconic red soles of its shoes, and stands out against a minimalist décor of black and white, which is accented here and there by original architectural features. Christian Louboutin, Maximillianstrasse 38-40, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2421 6540, christianlouboutin.com
PHOTO: JENS BRUCHHAUS
FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 93
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TOP 3 ... BAVARIAN RESTAURANTS Augustiner am Dom Positioned right by Munich’s cathedral, Augustiner am Dom couldn’t be much more Bavarian. Enjoy a dish of schnitzel, made from locally bred pork, on the terrace. Augustiner am Dom, Frauenplatz 8, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2323 8480, augustineramdom.de
Ratskeller Soak up the atmosphere of this historic basement eatery as you sample the local specialities. The Bavarian brunch, which takes place every Sunday during summer, is not to be missed. Ratskeller, Marienplatz 8, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 219 9890, ratskeller.com
FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 94
PHOTO: JOEPYREK CC BY-SA 2.0
Michaeligarten This relaxed restaurant on the outskirts of Munich has a romantic lakeside location, and a menu of seasonal local dishes – the regional cheese board comes highly recommended. Michaeligarten, Feichtstrasse 10, 81735 Munich, +49 (0)89 4355 2424, michaeligarten.de
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Residenzstrasse & Maximilianstrasse RE PL AY
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WEMPE Statement jewellery is a key trend this season and Wempe’s spring/summer 2016 collection is nothing short of dazzling. Distinctive, eye-catching highlights include the Revival By Kim necklace, a chic, contemporary take on the classic curb-link chain necklace, designed in feminine rose gold. For evening, jewellery fans should seek out By Kim’s exquisite Colonna cocktail rings, adorned with a sizeable tourmaline in either sea green or purple (pictured), as well as the spectacular haute joaillerie bracelet whose sapphire and diamond design was inspired by the crest of a wave.
Featured In This Issue
Wempe, Maximilianstrasse 10, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 291299, wempe.de
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● BOSE ● HALLHUBER ● FURLA ● THOMAS SABO ● E LEINFELDER ● BERNHARD GRASSL ● THOMAS ● STEFANEL ● FREUDENHAUS OPTIK ● TRETTER CLASSIC ● MARRYING ● MICHAEL KORS ● NESPRESSO ● P RATH ● PAPILLON ● MARION HEINRICH ● SWAROVSKI ● TAG HEUER ● DIE KLEINE THEATINER PARFÜMERIE ● DOUGLAS P.47 ● EYECATCHER ● FOGAL STRUMPFLADEN ● ESPRIT ● ROECKL
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Theatinerstrasse
Augustiner am Dom
CONRAD Choosing the right electronic and technology products can be a bit of a minefield, but specialist retailer Conrad is known for its practical solutions. Well equipped to deal with the needs of both businesses and individuals, Conrad stocks many premium technology brands, including Apple, Microsoft, Philips and Samsung. The company has stores across Germany, including two in Munich, and is renowned for its knowledgeable members of staff, who will be on hand to help you whether you’re looking for a new tablet or a power-tool kit. Conrad, Tal 29, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)9604 408789, conrad.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 92
Global Blue Retailer
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PHOTO: MARIUS STROM CC BY-NC 2.0
DID YOU KNOW?
Café
Restaurant
Featured In This Issue
Munich is home to one of the largest museums of science and technology in the world. Founded in 1903, the Deutsches Museum has more than 28,000 objects on display across 50 exhibition areas, each with a different theme. Among the highlights are the Wright brothers’ first motorised airplane along with the first program-controlled computer. The museum team presents science and technology as something to be experienced as well as seen, and children and adults alike will be delighted by the range of interactive exhibits. Deutsches Museum, Museumsinsel 1, 80538 Munich, +49 (0)89 21791, deutsches-museum.de
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OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sunday and public holidays: closed
DAY TRIP INGOLSTADT VILLAGE
Ingolstadt Village, located less than an hour from both Munich and Nuremberg, plays host to more than 110 luxury brand boutiques. Both German and international brands are represented, with savings of up to 60% available throughout the Village. Ingolstadt Village’s design takes inspiration from its surroundings; Bavaria’s evocative 19th-century textile mills are refected in its warm colour schemes and art nouveau motifs. Ingolstadt Village, Otto-Hahn-Strasse 1, 85055 Ingolstadt, +49 (0)841 886 3100, ingolstadtvillage.com, chicoutletshopping.com
HOW TO GET THERE... MUNICH INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
A9 A9
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Ingoldstadt
INGOLDSTADT MAIN STATION
By car From Munich take the A9 to junction Ingolstadt-Ost (exit 61) and from the exit follow the signs to Ingolstadt Village.
Outlet Village
By Shopping Express The Shopping Express® luxury coach service runs from central Munich to Ingolstadt Village daily. For further information and to book, visit chicoutletshopping.com.
Train Station
Airport
By train Ingolstadt is the main hub for trains running to Munich, Nuremberg, Augsburg, Ulm and Regensburg. There are regular connecting public coach services to Ingolstadt Village from Ingolstadt-Nord and Ingolstadt central.
By bus From Munich airport, take the Ingolstadt Airport Express to Ingolstadt Village. From Ingolstadt central station, take bus 10 to Brückenkopf, then change to line 20.
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MY PERFECT DAY
THERESA HAROLD, SHOP’S ASSISTANT NEWS EDITOR, DESCRIBES HER PERFECT DAY AT INGOLSTADT VILLAGE 10am Start the day at Liebeskind Berlin. The company is known for its innovative designs and use of high-quality materials. 12pm Take a break at the cosy, colonial-style Stiftl restaurant, which serves typically Bavarian fare such as pork medallions in pepper sauce with vegetables and potato gratin. 2pm Christ’s 150 years of experience is evident in its exquisite fine-jewellery collection, offered alongside a range of timepieces by brands such as Raymond Weil and Jacques Lemans.
4pm Prepare for summer by picking up some stylish beachwear from La Perla. The Italian label’s quality, design and functionality are among the best. 6pm Rosenthal is one of the world’s leading producers of contemporary porcelain, bone china, glass and tableware, all made to impeccably high standards.
DON’T MISS… Five-Star Services
7pm End your day with a visit to culinary specialist Le Creuset, which offers colourful cookware.
The village offers a range of VIP services including:
• Free Wi-Fi • Free parking • A personal shopper (on request) • Children’s play area • Electric car charging station Shopping Packages Various packages are available at the Village and can be booked via the Village’s website. Services include:
• Return tickets from central Frankfurt to the village on the Shopping Express® luxury coach • A €25 Ingolstadt Village Shopping Card to be spent at a boutique of your choice at the Village
• An exclusive gift • Lunch with small soft drink at Stiftl restaurant at the Village
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OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm Saturday: 9am-8pm (Hugo Boss 8am-8pm)
DAY TRIP OUTLETCITY METZINGEN With more than 70 premium brands on-site, Outletcity Metzingen attracts 3.5 million visitors each year, making it one of the most successful retail outlets in Europe. Visitors can enjoy discounts on international designer labels.
Outletcity Metzingen, Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen, +49 (0)7123 925326, outletcity.com
MY PERFECT DAY
STUTTGART Outlet City Metzingen B28
L230 A8
10am Start your day perusing the sportswear on offer at Peak Performance; the label is known for combining functionality and style. 12pm Take a break at Keim Bakery to enjoy everything from coffee and cake to a freshly made sandwich. 2pm The ready-to-wear collection on offer at Hugo Boss strikes the perfect balance between fashion and functionality. 4pm Diane von Furstenberg produces classic, feminine pieces which exude elegance – the designer’s printed wrap dress is an iconic wardrobe piece.
By car Enter Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen on your satellite navigation system. Drive north-west out of Munich on the A8 towards Augsburg and Stuttgart. Leave the A8 at the Merklingen exit, following
Outlet Village
signs for Münsingen. Turn right on the L230, follow the road for 6km and turn left onto the B28 towards Reutlingen. Follow this street for 30km. Outletcity Metzingen is clearly signposted when you arrive in the town.
PHOTO: PHOTO: JOHANNES VOGT
HOW TO GET THERE...
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Munich Airport: Terminal 1, Departures, Level 4 Terminal 2, Departures, Level 4 Terminal 2, Transit, Level 5 Downtown Munich: Karstadt, Bahnhofplatz 7 Oberpollinger, Neuhauser Strasse 44 Galeria Kaufof, Kaufngerstrasse 1-5
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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 54: Designed For Life
Дизайн На Века
Когда дело касается домашнего интерьера, то из всех городов Германии Мюнхен не имеет себе равных. Джош Симс рассказывает о дизайнерских салонах, которые стоит посетить в первую очередь Берлин с населением в 3.5 миллиона человек неоспоримо является важнейшим культурным центром страны. Мюнхен же, с другой стороны, имеет население всего 1.4 миллиона, и представляет собой относительно небольшой и спокойный город. Не самое лучшее место для прогрессивно мыслящей части населения, как может некоторым показаться. Но если вам случится обновлять интерьер своего дома, то Мюнхен предстанет для вас в совершенно новом свете. Ведь несмотря на сравнительно малую площадь и небогатое культурное наследие, столица Баварии считается чуть ли не главным центром создания стильного интерьера. От мебели и предметов для дома до всевозможных безделушек, мюнхенские бутики и интерьерные салоны предлагают лучший выбор классических и современных дизайнерских творений. Одним из самых легендарных магазинов города можно по праву считать Kustermann, основанный в 1798 году. Когда-то ему принадлежала целая литейная фабрика, поставлявшая метал для строительства железнодорожного вокзала Мюнхена, городских мостов и даже люков. Сейчас магазин специализируется на домашнем интерьере, или, как здесь его принято называть, «культуре домашнего быта», а именно: бокалах, керамике, столовых приборах и кухонной посуде. Более того, магазин является крупнейшим в своем роде во всей Германии. Если вы отдаете предпочтение современной классике, то вам стоит посетить бутик Koton, где представлен широкий спектр последних дизайнерских новинок, пользующихся большой популярностью
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PHOTO: (TOP) MARC EGGIMANN, © VITRA (WWW.VITRA.COM)
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среди берлинских хипстеров. Здесь представлена продукция, которую вряд ли можно повстречать где либо еще. Среди огромного ряда изделий от крупнейших дизайнерских фабрик, включая Knoll, Verpan, Artek и Vitra, особо выделяются эксклюзивные серии стульев Panton и Eames в зеленом и сером цвете, серия алюминиевых кресел и подставок для ног Eames, а также творения современных дизайнеров, например, зеркало Cypris, созданное архитектором Ниной Маир. Кроме того, в Koton представлена впечатляющая коллекция винтажных изделий. К вашему вниманию бюро с выдвижной крышкой George Nelson, кресло Ron Arad Sof Little Heavy и даже фанерные ортопедические шины Eames, которые могут пригодиться, если ваш шоппинг не обошелся без экстрима. Салон-магазин Tiersch 15 предлагает своим посетителям широчайший ассортимент изделий более 70 современных дизайнерских брендов. От немецкого Müller до итальянского DePadova и датского Carl Hansen, все представленное здесь добро отличается современным и оригинальным дизайном. Что касается самого магазина, то его просторные залы со снежно-белыми стенами и безмятежной атмосферой как нельзя лучше располагают к шоппингу. И все же, почему большинство таких магазинов сосредоточено именно в Мюнхене? «У тех, кто никогда здесь не был, магазины такой специализации, да еще и таких размахов, могут вызвать удивление, – говорит директор по маркетингу Kustermann Ясмин Явид, – Однако во всем есть закономерность. По сравнению с Берлином, Мюнхен довольно консервативен, а большая часть населения прекрасно образована. На самом деле, Мюнхен – один из богатейших городов Германии, и естественно, что у людей есть большие дома, достаточное количество финансов и желание их инвестировать в дизайн интерьера. И все же, это не значит, что интерьерные
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салоны Мюнхена предсказуемы в своем ассортименте. Довольно часто здесь можно встретить работы многих начинающих дизайнеров. К примеру, в магазине Ben представлена уникальная мебель из стекла и металла итальянского производителя Gallotti & Radice, а в салоне Pulpo, сотрудничающем с такими дизайнерами, как Питер Рааке, Сибилле Пфайфер и Гарри Талер, можно приобрести очаровательные светильники. В салоне Magazin вы сможете найти изделия марок Flos, Luceplan и мюнхенского дизайнера Инго Маурер, а также целый ряд собственной продукции компании. В более скромном 1260 Grad посетители найдут изящные фарфоровые и керамические изделия, сделанные прямо в магазине дизайнером Петрой Фишер, которая начала свой бизнес 15 лет назад. «Все чаще в Мюнхене можно встретить новые независимые интерьерные салоны. Это связано с тем, что людям порядком поднадоели изделия массового производства с типовым дизайном, которые можно встретить в любой стране мира. Когда они приезжают в Мюнхен, то рассчитывают найти нечто уникальное», – говорит Сабин Штадтхер, дизайнер вязаной одежды, открывшая свой магазин Room to Dream два года тому назад. Помимо собственной продукции, от вязаных чехлов для цветочных горшков до покрывал, магазин специализируется на продукции скандинавских дизайнеров, которую Штадтхер отбирает во время своих путешествий. «В Германии в последнее время быстро набирает популярность простой скандинавский стиль, несмотря на то, что обычно новые тренды у нас развиваются довольно медленно, – говорит дизайнер. – Я решила сменить сферу деятельности и оставила моду в пользу дизайна интерьеров, поскольку тренды здесь не столь скоротечны и все движется намного медленнее. Это та сфера, в которую люди готовы инвестировать, это вещи, которые будут служить на протяжении многих лет и не будут пылиться в шкафу с началом нового сезона». globalblue.com
64: Man About Town
Инсайдер Моды
Магазины Мюнхена предлагают покупателям невероятный выбор товаров, от традиционных баварских курток и классических костюмов до стильных мужских аксессуаров. Эмма Джонсон рассказывает о самых интересных Во все времена Мюнхен славился своими магазинами классической мужской одежды. Местные бренды и бутики знаменитых дизайнеров пользуются большим спросом, как, впрочем, и частные ателье по пошиву традиционных костюмов. «Мюнхен удивительно разнообразный и достаточно молодой город, доказательством чему является разностороння городская мода», – говорит Франк Трох, генеральный директор Hirmer – одного из крупнейших магазинов мужской одежды в мире. Hirmer, занимающий помещение впечатляющего
шестиэтажного особняка на Kaufngerstrasse, играет важную роль в торговой жизни Мюнхена. Помимо регулярных шоу-показов, магазин предлагает ряд эксклюзивных услуг, включая персональный шоппинг и срочные услуги по подгонке одежды. Шоппинг районы, сосредоточенные вокруг улиц Maximilianstrasse и Teatinerstrasse предлагают практически все ключевые бренды, от Louis Vuitton, Dior, Valentino и Gucci до Acne, Lacoste, Ermenegildo Zegna и Maison Margiela. Особого внимания заслуживает флагманский магазин Burberry, оформленный в стиле фирменного бутика на Regent Street в Лондоне. Каждый вошедший сюда словно попадает в волшебную страну цифровой моды – на огромных плоских экранах идет беспрерывное вещание медиасобытий и шоу-показов бренда, в то время как персонал вооружен планшетами iPad для быстрого доступа к информации о наличии товара. Для тех, кто приехал Мюнхен ненадолго, действует специальная услуга предварительного заказа товара, ну а если вы располагаете свободным временем, то обязательно стоит заглянуть в отел мужских костюмов. Напротив бутика Burberry находится торговый центр Fünf Höfe, приютивший значительное число брендов мужской одежды, включая Baldessarini и Boggi Milano, а менее чем в десяти минутах ходьбы расположился Oberpollinger. Несмотря на колоссальную площадь в 34 тысячи кв. м., магазин не лишен атмосферы роскоши и эксклюзивности и входит в число лучших универмагов Мюнхена. Уникальным опытом будет посещение расположенного неподалеку магазина Ludwig Beck, чей интерьер по изяществу не уступает представленному ассортименту. Здесь найдется все, от классической музыки и одежды до мебели и аксессуаров. Внимание поклонников независимых магазинов и местных дизайнеров должны привлечь молодые мюнхенские бренды Hannibal и A Kind of Guise, чьи одежда и аксессуары создаются в Германии с использованием материалов из разных стран
PHOTO: YOLANDA NG/VONZWEI.COM
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мира. Среди других примечательных мест: Schwittenberg, предлагающий коллекции местных брендов; магазин мужской одежды Wormland; и Stereo, расположенный прямо напротив Fünf Höfe. В последнем посетители обнаружат интересный выбор немецких брендов, а также смогут отдохнуть в фирменном кафе. Вдали от шумного центра города также есть, на что обратить внимание. Настоящей жемчужиной можно считать концептуальный бутик мужской одежды Филипа Штольте Harvest. Идея открыть собственный магазин пришла основателю во время написания диплома по графическому дизайну. Воплотить ее в жизнь он решил на месте старого ателье, принадлежавшего его отцу. Расположенный в районе Schwabing магазин предлагает посетителям такие бренды, как Folk, Our Legacy, Comme des Garçons и Indnat. Среди главных покупателей – мюнхенские
PHOTO: JULIAN HENZLER/JULIANPHOTO.NET
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хипстеры и инсайдеры моды, которых привлекает эксклюзивная, независимая атмосфера. «Мне кажется, нашим главным достоинством является наш подход, – говорит Штольте, – который сосредоточен не только на розничной продаже, но и на потребительском опыте. Конечно, продажа не стоит на последнем месте, но в первую очередь для нас важно заинтересовать покупателей нашими проектами и коллекциями». Сложно не заметить, тот факт, что местные модные тенденции пропитаны элементами традиционных немецких нарядов, пусть и немного стилизованных на современный лад. «Одной из прекрасных особенностей Мюнхена является повальное увлечение традиционной баварской одеждой, например “lederhosen” (кожаные штаны) и “trachtenjacke” (пиджак), особенно во время таких праздников, как Октоберфест», – поясняет Йоланда Нг – мюнхенский дизайнер одежды и ведущая стритстайл блога Von Zwei. Идеальным местом для поиска таких вещей служит globalblue.com
магазин Lodenfrey. Он был основан в 1842 году и до сих пор использует специальную непромокаемую ткань для пошива традиционных нарядов. Кроме того, здесь представлен ряд современных коллекций немецких и международных брендов. Несмотря на то, что мюнхенского стиля как такового не существует, местных жителей отличает довольно открытый подход к моде. Удивительно гармоничное сочетание классических традиций и современных тенденций можно заметить практически повсеместно, от знаменитых модных домов до небольших бутиков и независимых дизайнеров, благодаря которым Мюнхен и стал колоритным шоппинг-направлением. Как поясняет Франк Трох из Hirmer: «Разнообразие первоклассных магазинов в сочетании с типичной мюнхенской атмосферой, а также городские красоты и качество жизни делают Мюнхен особенным городом, куда, как мы видим, приезжают не только ради достопримечательностей, но и для шоппинга».
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72: Power Dressing
PHOTO: ALEXANDER KOERNER/GETTY IMAGES FOR MARCEL OSTERTAG
Сильные И Нежные
Уильям Ли Адамс рассказывает о мюнхенском дизайнере Марселе Остертаге, который создает смелую, современную одежду для сильных женщин, смешивая тенденции разных десятилетий. Задумывая свою коллекцию весна-лето 2016, немецкий дизайнер Марсель Остертаг решил искать вдохновение в пейзажах. Он вспоминает, как однажды смотрел передачу, где рассказывалось о вулканах и великих пустынях, включая Сахару. И хотя пустынные пейзажи кажутся издалека лишенными всякой жизни, при детальном рассмотрении в них можно заметить и текстуру, и палитру и свет, которые в конечном счете нашли отражение в коллекции Остертага под названием Desert («Пустыня»). Сочетание песчаных оттенков, бежевого, фуксии и темно-синего наполнено жизнью и энергией. Потрясающие пустынные
мотивы, переходящие от темно-коричневого к золотистому, украшают женские платья в восточном стиле и городские курткибомберы. Сдвиг цветовых оттенков напоминает восход солнца. В остальном, платья обзавелись большими карманами, по бокам приталенных юбок из шелкового крепа зияют разрезы, а бежевые кружевные брюки вызывают в воображении образ роскошного сафари. Простые силуэты и цветовая палитра вместе обеспечивают одновременно традиционную, современную и сильную эстетику. «Мне нравится экспериментировать на гендерную тематику, – говорит Остертаг. – Сильные женщины нуждаются в сильной, элегантной одежде. Многие модели моих пальто имеют элементы военного стиля. Мне кажется, это идеальный симбиоз женственности и мужественности». Остертаг, родившийся в 1979 году в горной баварской деревушке Берхтесгаден, начал рисовать эскизы одежды, когда ему было только пять лет. Заметив такой необычный талант, мать и бабушка решили обучить его вязанию и шитью. Даже не догадываясь о том, что дизайн одежды может принести немалое состояние, он провел все детство, занимаясь танцами, и в возрасте 18 лет получил контракт на работу в одной из танцевальных студий. Однако судьба была непреодолима: получив травму колена он был вынужден пересмотреть свою карьеру. После серии контрактов в модельных агентствах Лондона, Остертаг решает поступить в колледж Central Saint Martins, знаменитый своими выпускниками, среди которых были Александр Маккуин, Зак Позен и Фиби Фило. Окончив магистратуру по специализации «мода», он работал вместе с такими брендами, как Paul Smith, Dunhill и Burberry. Его выпускные коллекции получили одобрительный отзыв в средствах массовой информации, кроме того, ему удалось одержать победу в нескольких модных конкурсах. Воодушевленный своими учителями в 2006 году, он основал свой собственный бренд Marcel Ostertag.
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Несмотря на то, что причиной своих главных достижений он считает время, проведенное в Лондоне, штаб-квартиру своей компании дизайнер решил основать в Мюнхене, в бывшей студии звукозаписи, чьи стены повидали Queen и Rolling Stones. «Glockenbachviertel – очень вдохновляющий район, говорит он. – Моя студия больше напоминает семейный дом, нежели рабочую площадку». Его растущая международная популярность во многом обязана немецкому мастерству. «Каждая модель из коллекции шьется в Германии», – говорит он, добавляя, что большинство тканей произведено на фабриках Баварии. Это делается не только ради экологичности производства, но и с целью контроля качества. «Мне кажется, что покупателям важно знать, где и как создаются мои коллекции». Коллекции Остертага отличаются большим остроумием и фантазией, а также сочетанием тенденций различных десятилетий. От узких цельнокроеных платьев с разноцветными геометрическими узорами и кожаными аппликациями до курток с искусственным мехом и увеличенными воротниками, Остертаг легко и непринужденно смешивает традиции и современность. «Мои коллекции в основном вдохновлены эпохой 70-х и 80-х, когда в моде был образ сильной и умной женщины, – говорит он. – Я обожаю сильных женщин. Исследование музыки и искусства тех времен приводит меня в восторг». Такой подход обеспечивает его коллекциям необычайную популярность и не только среди женщин, живших в те года. «Возраст женщины Marcel Ostertag от 18 до 88 лет», – говорит он. Его коллекции абсолютно непредсказуемы. В прошлом он удивлял поклонников принтами в стиле «узелковый батик» и топами в стиле «колор блокинг», а также платьями в пол и юбками, украшенными шифоном, пайетками и бахромой. «Кристаллы, бриллианты, шипы, жемчуг и цветочные бутоны взрываются красочным фейерверком в вашем уме», – говорит дизайнер, описывая свою работу. globalblue.com
Среди всех своих коллекций, включающих брюки, платья, блузки и многое другое, самой популярной Остертаг считает серию пальто. «Все мои клиенты имеют как минимум одно в своем гардеробе», – говорит он. Что же еще объединяет покупателей? «Они ценят стандарты качества, которых я придерживаюсь. Особенные женщины заслуживают особого обслуживания. Именно это я им и предлагаю». 99: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до 14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
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美文翻译
54: Designed For Life
PHOTO: ANDREAS BRÜCKLMAIR
设计点亮生活
说起家居购物，慕尼黑可谓德国的时尚之都。Josh Sims为您盘点那些不容错过的家居用品商店 无论从历史还是人口的角度来衡量，拥有350万人口 的柏林毫无疑问是德国重要的艺术中心。而相较之 下，仅有140万人口的慕尼黑面积更小，也不如前者 繁荣。人们可能不会认为这里是艺术创新之地，但是 如果您正巧要装修自己的房子，情况就大不相同了。 慕尼黑虽然面积不大，文化底蕴也不够深远，但却是 德国当仁不让的原创设计中心。这里精品店云集，从 其貌不扬的小店铺到富丽堂皇的旗舰店，家具、家居 用品、室内摆设等等应有尽有，可以在这里找到最好 的经典和现代家居设计品。 Kustermann是慕尼黑标志性的商店之一，其 历史可以追溯到1798年。它曾经拥有自己的铸造厂， 这家工厂还曾为慕尼黑火车站以及许多桥梁和井盖 提供铁。Kustermann专卖家居设计商品，也就是它 所谓的“生活和餐桌的文化”：玻璃、陶瓷、餐具、餐 桌和厨具。更令人惊叹的是，Kustermann乃是德国 同类家居店中规模最大的。 如果您更倾心于摩登经典的设计品，去Koton 家居装饰店探索历史悠久的设计品准没错，这里是 柏林时髦人士最喜欢的地方。您能邂逅许多其他 地方不易找到的产品。在Knoll、Verpan、Artek和 Vitra等知名设计品牌的精品当中，您将与限量版绿 色Panton座椅、限量版灰色Eames餐椅、Eames
特制版铝系列躺椅和脚凳不期而遇，甚至还能发现 当代设计师的杰作，比如建筑师 Nina Mair设计的 Cypris镜子。Koton店内还有许多年代久远的作 品，令人印象深刻。George Nelson可折叠桌、Ron Arad设计的Soft Little Heavy椅子，甚至是罕见的 Eames弯曲胶合板夹腿板任您选购，逛街逛累时正 好能派上用场。 Thiersch 15既是一家商店，又是一个展馆，琳 琅满目的商品来自超过70种当代设计品牌。这里不 仅有德国的Müller，还有意大利的DePadova和丹 麦的Carl Hansen，每一款产品都精挑细选，时尚又 精美。店面的装修风格以白墙为主，宁静的环境供客 人细细选购。 为什么这些商店会聚集在慕尼黑？ “其他城市 的人们会惊讶地发现，如此大规模的商店竟然开设 在慕尼黑， ”Kustermann的市场经理 Jasmin Javid 如是说道，但是这一切在慕尼黑合情合理。 “相较 于柏林，慕尼黑更保守，但大部分居民都接受过良 好的教育……事实上，慕尼黑还是全德国最富有的 城市之一。所以，人们有钱而且有兴趣在原创设计产 品上消费，而且这里的居民通常也有大房子来装这 些家什。” 但这并不意味着慕尼黑的设计品商店青睐 大牌——这些店同样出售知名度较低的品牌。例 如，您在Ben’s中可以买到不太常见的意大利品牌 Gallotti & Radice的玻璃不锈钢家具，或是Pulpo
的玻璃灯饰，这家公司和Peter Raacke、Sybille Pfeifer、Harry Thaler等诸多德国设计师合作过。 在Magazin，您不仅能看到Flos、Luceplan和慕尼 黑设计师Ingo Maurer的设计产品，还能寻获各种 公司自有品牌的家居品。如果前往小而精美的1260 Grad，您就能欣赏到各种陶器、陶瓷和粗陶器—— 由设计师Petra Fischer现场制作而成；这家店已有 超过15年的历史。 “慕尼黑出现越来越多小型的独立设计商店， 因为人们已经对世界各地雷同的商品感到厌倦，他 们希望在慕尼黑能够看到不一样的东西， ”Sabine Stadtherr说道。这位针织品设计师两年前开设了 Room to Dream商店，除了防热手套、床单、围巾等 定制的编织品外，店内还有Stadtherr在旅途中收集 的斯堪的纳维亚风格编织品。 “简单休闲的斯堪的纳维亚生活方式正席卷德 国，不过可能会晚一点才影响到南部地区， ”她开玩 笑道。 “我从时装业转行做家居内饰，因为家居设 计不那么紧跟潮流、瞬息万变。人们希望把钱花在 经久耐用的家居商品上，而不是一个季度后就把东 西扔掉。”
64: Man About Town 都市男装 慕尼黑的高品质商店为男士提供丰富选择，这里有 传统的巴伐利亚夹克和经典西装，更不乏时尚前卫 的衣着。Emma Johnson带您领略 说起男装，慕尼黑向来以经典且不失活力的风格 而著称。当地品牌和时尚设计师品牌占据了半壁 江山，但与此同时，量身定制、剪裁得体的西装和 传统面料依旧不失立足之地。全世界最大的男装 专卖店之一Hirmer的首席执行官Frank Troch 介绍说： “慕尼黑是一个极其多元化的年轻城 市。”Hirmer是慕尼黑的地标性建筑，坐落于考芬 格大街（Kaufngerstrasse）上一幢雄伟的历史建 筑中，共六层楼高。Hirmer提供私人购物咨询、当 日修裁服务和定期时装秀，是游客在慕尼黑购物时 的必经之所。 在马克西姆大街（Maximilianstrasse）和 特阿庭大街（Theatinerstrasse）附近的主要 零售街区， Louis Vuitton、Dior、Valentino 、Gucci、Acne、Lacoste、Ermenegildo Zegna、Maison Margiela等知名品牌应有尽有。 其中，装修一新的Burberry旗舰店借鉴了伦敦摄政 大街（Regent Street）店的风格，引发了不小轰动。 步入旗舰店，映入眼帘的是一个科技和时装完美结 合的世界——大屏幕上滚动播放着品牌活动和时 装秀，店内的工作人员手捧iPad供顾客查阅全球货 globalblue.com
PHOTO: © HIRMER
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源。此外，全新的线上下单、店内取货服务特别适合 到慕尼黑匆匆一游的游客，时间充裕的客人还可以 体验一下专属量身定制男装区。 Burberry旗舰店的对面是Fünf Höfe购物中 心，Baldessarini、Boggi Milano等男装品牌一应 俱全。再步行不到10分钟，便来到Oberpollinger百 货商厦。这座占地34000平方米的商场完好保存了 高端奢华的风格，被誉为慕尼黑最好的百货商店。隔 壁的Ludwig Beck百货公司亦值得一游，华美的商 场出售古典音乐、服装、家具和配饰，无所不包，处 处给人带来惊喜。 倾心于独立精品店和当地设计师的游客不妨留 心一下Hannibal和A Kind of Guise等品牌。前者 是一个年轻的慕尼黑当地品牌，而后者则精选来自 世界各地的材料，在德国制造服装和配饰。另外，还 可以去汇集了诸多本地品牌的Schwittenberg、男装 专卖店Wormland以及Fünf Höfe正对面的Stereo 商店；Stereo商店内集锦了诸多引人注目的德国品 牌，楼上还有一家咖啡店，一定让您不虚此行。 Philip Stolte开设的男装概念店Harvest则 是一颗藏匿于市郊的宝石。创始人Philip在攻读 平面设计学位时便有了开店的念头，后来在他父 亲的工作室原址把想法转变成了现实。这家位于 施瓦宾（Schwabing）的概念店出售Folk、Our Legacy、Comme des Garçons和Indnat等品牌， 因其独特的商品和氛围而广受创意人士和慕尼黑名 流的青睐。 “我认为，是我们采取的呈现方式让我们 与众不同， ”Stolte解释道。 “我们不仅关注零售，更关 心顾客的体验。出售商品固然重要，但我们更希望顾 客对我们的项目和产品常怀一颗好奇之心。” 传统的德国服装同样在当地时装界拥有举足
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72: Power Dressing 强势女装 慕尼黑设计师Marcel Ostertag融合各个时代 的独特风格，为干练的女性打造新潮前卫的时 装。William Lee Adams带您一睹为快 大自然是德国设计师Marcel Ostertag 2016春夏系 列的灵感之源。他从一篇有关火山的电视新闻报道 开始浮想联翩，想起壮美的自然景观，最后联想到 撒哈拉浩浩渺渺的沙漠。从远处瞭望，沙漠仿佛是 一个荒无人烟的不毛之地，但细细品味，这里纹路 细腻、色彩斑斓、光怪陆离，而这一切都完美体现于 Ostertag的最新系列——“沙漠”。 “沙漠”系列充满生机和活力，玩转淡棕、绛紫 和藏青等沙漠色系。从深褐色到金黄色，长袍和都 市短夹克无不演绎沙漠风情，渐变色效宛如缓缓升 起的太阳。其他匠心独具的设计细节还包括连衣裙 上的大号口袋、真丝修身短裙的开衩，明亮的驼色 蕾丝长裤让人联想起一场奢华的游猎。简洁的线条 搭配明快的色彩，将传统、现代和力量之美展现得 淋漓尽致。 “我很喜欢模糊性别， ”Ostertag如是说。 “干练 的女性需要硬朗而不失典雅的服装。我的服装设 计中常会融入军事元素，使阴柔之美和阳刚之气相 得益彰。” Ostertag 1979年出生于巴伐利亚阿尔卑斯山 麓的小村庄贝希特斯加登（Berchtesgaden），5岁 时便开始涂画衣服。母亲和祖母注意到他非凡的设
PHOTO: ALEXANDER KOERNER/GETTY IMAGES FOR MARCEL OSTERTAG
轻重的地位，常常也会融入些许时尚的元素。 “慕 尼黑不同凡响之处就在于，皮短裤（lederhosen） 或羊毛夹克（trachtenjacke）等传统的巴伐利亚 服饰对每个年龄段的人都有独特魅力，特别是在 啤酒节（Oktoberfest）的时候， ”Yolanda Ng解释 道。Yolanda是在慕尼黑工作的时装设计师，同时 也是街头时尚博客Von Zwei的博主。购买这些服 饰的首选之处一定是 Lodenfrey服饰店。这家创建 于1842年的商店至今仍使用防水洛登呢布（loden cloth）制作服饰，此外也出售德国和国际的当代时 装品牌。 慕尼黑对时尚抱以开放的态度，这里没有固定 的风格。在慕尼黑，无论在国际时装旗舰店，还是在 小型精品店和独立设计师品牌，都能看到经典和现 代的碰撞，也正是这种碰撞让慕尼黑成为了一个生 机勃勃的购物天堂。 正如Hirmer的Troch先生所说的那样， “诸多独 具慕尼黑风格的高档商店、美丽的都市风光和品质 生活让这座城市如此与众不同。越来越多的游客来 到这里，他们不仅来观光，更多的人选择来购物。” 计才能后，便教他编织和缝纫。他在青少年时代学习 了舞蹈，并在18岁时与一家舞蹈公司签下了一纸合 同。彼时的他完全没有考虑过成为一名时装设计师 的可能性，但冥冥之中，他的膝盖受了伤，这让他不 得不重新考虑自己的职业生涯。 最后，他选择了成为一名模特。在伦敦换 了几次工作后，他来到了曾培养出Alexander McQueen、Zac Posen和Phoebe Philo等诸多 著名设计大师中央圣马丁学院（Central Saint Martins）。获得学位后，Ostertag旋即攻读时装 硕士学位，并合作参与了Paul Smith、Dunhill和 Burberry等大牌的数个项目。他的毕业设计引发了 媒体的高度关注，并一举获得若干奖项。在导师们 的鼓励下，他于2006年创立了同名品牌。 虽然他将今日的成就归功于在伦敦的那段日 子，但他仍然将创作的大本营选在了慕尼黑，在皇后 乐队和滚石乐队曾经用过的录音室里工作。 “格洛肯 巴赫区（Glockenbachviertel）充满了艺术的灵感， ” 他说道。 “与其说我的工作室是一个工作的地方，不 如说更像一个大家庭。” 正统的德国工艺是品牌在国际舞台上日益 闪耀的坚实基础。 “每一件服饰都是在德国生产 的， ”Ostertag补充说，大多数成衣都是在附近的巴 伐利亚州制作的。Ostertag很注重可持续发展，但 他对质量的要求也十分严格。 “我认为，让我的顾客 知道这些服装是在哪个地方、以什么方式生产出来 的是一件很重要的事情。” Ostertag的服装以诙谐幽默、天马行空的设计 而著称，同时还混搭了各个年代的不同风格。他擅
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أساليب من عقود متعدّدة .من فساتي قصية ضيّقة من دون أكمم بأجزاء متعدّدة اللوان ومط ّعمة بالجلد إل ستات من الفرو الصطناعي بياقات واسعة ،يجمع Ostertagباستمرار بي خاص الجديد والتقليدي .يعلّق قائلً“ :مجموعات مستوحاة بشكلٍ ّ من السبعينات والثمنينات ل ّن صورة الرأة ف تلك الحقبة قويّة ومعقّدة .أعشق الرأة القويّة وأهوى البحث ف مجال الوسيقى والف ّن ف تلك السنوات ”.هذا ما ينح ملبسه اهتمماً واسعاً؛ ليس من قبل النساء اللوات عشن تلك العقود فحسب .يضيف“ :يتاوح عمر الرأة التي ترتدي Marcel Ostertagبي 16و 88سنة”. ل يكن توقّع مجموعاته عل الطلق .ابتكر ف الاض نقشات مرقّطة وقمصاناً بارزة اللوان وركّز عل الفساتي الطويلة بأسلوب جميل والتناني الز ّودة بالشيفون والتتر والحاشية .يصف ٍ اللّمسات التي يضفيها عل عمله قائلً“ :تتفرقع ف عقلك البلوارت والاسات والللئ والزهار التفتّحة كألعاب ناريّة”. كل تصاميمه التي تشمل يعتف Ostertagأنّه من بي ّ الساويل والفساتي وبعض القمصان ،تقع أنظار زبوناته عل القل كل من زبونات معطف واحد عل ّ العاطف .فيقول“ :لدى ّ من تصميمي ”.وما الذي يجمع بينهن أيضاً؟ “يحبب معايي الجودة حق إل خدم ٍة العالية التي أتّبعها .تطمح النساء الميّزات عن ّ ممتازة وهذا ما أقدّمه”. When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free: 99
عندما تتس ّوق حول العال ،تس ّوق من دون دفع ال“يبة
长把现代和传统交织在一起，从饰有彩色几何色块 和皮革的宽松直筒连衣裙、宽领人造皮毛夹克便可 。见一斑 “我的设计灵感大多来源于上世纪七十和八 十年代，因为那时的女性形象非常干练，充满着力 量， 。”Ostertag说道 “我很崇拜这些坚强的女性，研 究那段时期的音乐和艺术常常让我激动不已。”他的 服装不仅吸引着活跃于七、八十年代的女性，各个年 龄段的女性都为之侧目。他说： “Marcel Ostertag的 ”。女性顾客年龄在16岁到88岁之间 他的设计充满惊喜。他创作过扎染印花、点缀有 色块的上衣，让人耳目一新的长裙，饰以亮片和流苏 的雪纺连衣裙。他用曼妙无比的画面描述设计中的 这些点睛之笔： “水晶、钻石、饰钉、珍珠和盛开的花 ”。蕾如璀璨的烟花般在你的脑海中绽放 Ostertag表示，无论是长裤、礼服、衬衫还是其 他服装，他设计的大衣最受顾客欢迎。他表示： “所 有的顾客都拥有至少一件大衣。”她们还有哪些相同 ？之处 “她们追求高品质。别具一格的女性需要别出 ”。心裁的服务。那就是我给予她们的
99: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税
تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع ال“يبة Tax Freeلتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أك” من 270,000متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال. فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون كل سنة؟ ما دفع ال“يبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة.
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free 。Shopping）为您节约购物开销 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 (Global Blue)服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过 程：
.1تس ّوق الخاص أينم تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد ال“يبة ّ بغلوبل بلو Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت.
1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 。(Global Blue Tax Free Form)，并记得保存小票
.2أطلب ف طريق العودة إل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد الخاصة بنا. مكاتب الستداد ّ
2. 申请退税
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يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع ال“يبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري .ف بعض الطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي.
当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 。的退税点领取您的退税款 联系方式：
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يقول Trochمن متجر “ :Hirmerنتيجة تن ّوع التاجر الرفيعة الستوى التّسمة بتألّق ميونخ النموذجي وجمل الدينة وطبيعة الحياة فيها ،تستحيل ميونخ مدينة مميّزة؛ ونلحظ توافد أعداد متزايدة من الز ّوار إليها ،ليس لغرض السياحة فحسب ،بل أك” وأك” للتس ّوق”. Power Dressing :72
تصميم قوي
يدمج الص ّمم القيم ف ميونخ Marcel Ostertagأساليب من عدّة عقود ليبتكر ملبس عصيّة جريئة للمرأة القويّة ،تقرير
William Lee Adams
لدى التحضي لجموعة ربيع/صيف ،2016استوحى الص ّمم اللان Marcel Ostertagمن الطبيعة .شاهد ذات م ّرة شيطاً مص ّورا ً عن الباكي ،دفعه إل التفكي بالناظر الطبيعيّة وبالتال بالمتدادات الرمليّة الشاسعة عل سبيل الصحراء الكبى .قد يبدو هذا الشهد قاحلً عن بُعد ،لكن لدى إمعان النظر ،ترى ملمساً تجسدت ف مجموعة Ostertagالخية ولوناً ونورا ً؛ وكلّها عناص ّ “ ”Desertأي الصحراء. تتلعب الجموعة باللوان التابيّة والبيج والفوشيا والزرق الداكن فتزهو بالحياة والتألّق .تكسو الرموز الصحراويّة الرائعة التد ّرجة من الب ّني الداكن إل الصفر الذهبي ،أثواب قفطان وست ٍ التغية شوق الشمس. ات ضيّقة عند الخص .فتمثّل اللوان ّ ومن ناحية أخرى ،تتمتّع الفساتي ب ِجيَ ٍب كبية والتناني الضيّقة من كريب الحرير بشقٍ جانبي وتتزيّن الساويل الواسعة بلون البيج الصنوعة من القمش الخ ّرم بصور رحلت سفاري فاخرة. تولّد التصاميم واللوان البسيطة أسلوباً جمليّاً تقليديّاً وعصيّاً وصلباً. يقول “ :Ostertagأهوى التلعب بالجندر .الرأة القويّة
بحاجة إل ملبس قويّة أنيقة .ف الكثي من العاطف التي أص ّممها، لتوصل إل دم ٍج مثا ّل بي أستعي بتفاصيل من اللبس العسكريّة ّ التفاصيل النثويّة والذكوريّة”. ُولد Ostertagسنة 1979ف بلدة Berchtesgaden ف جبال اللب البافاريّة وبدأ يرسم اللبس عندما كان ف س ّن الخامسة .لحظت والدته وجدّته موهبته ف التصميم فعلّمتاه الكروشيه والحياكة والخياطة .ل يُدرك أنّه من المكن أن يتهن تصميم الزياء ،فأمض سنوات الراهقة يرقص ووقّع عقدا ً بس ّن الـ 18مع شكة رقص .لكن شاء القدر أن عطب ركبته واضط ّر إل إعادة النظر بخياراته الهنيّة. فانتهى به الطاف يعمل كعارض أزياء وتنقّل بي وظائف متعدّدة ف لندن إل أن اكتشف كليّة Central Saint Martinsالتي خ ّرجت مشاهي أمثال Alexander McQueenو Zac Posenو .Phoebe Philoالتحق بها ونال شهاد ًة وماجستي ف تصميم الزياء ومن ث ّم ساهم ف مشاريع مع Paul Smithو Dunhillوِ .Burberry حظيت مجموعات تخ ّرجه بتغطية إعلميّة واسعة وحاز شهادات عدّة. وبتشجيع من أساتذتهّ ،أسس علمته التجاريّة التي تحمل إسمه سنة .2006 يعتف الص ّمم أنّه بات من يثّل اليوم بفضل الوقت الذي أمضاه ف لندن ،لك ّنه اختار التمركز ف ميونخ ،حيث يعمل ف استوديو ٍ صوت سابق استضاف أمثال QueenوRolling “حي Glockenbachviertel .Stonesيقول ف هذا الصددّ : مصد ٌر لللهام .مشغل أشبه بنزل عائل منه بكان عمل”. تقوم شهرته العاليّة التنامية عل مهارة ألانيّة راسخة. كل قطعة ف ألانيا وتنفّذ معظم اللبس ف محيط يقول“ :تُصنع ّ بافاريا ”.يقوم بذلك احتاماً للستدامة وكجزء من مراقبة الجودة. فيضيف“ :أعتقد أنّه يه ّم زبونتي أن تعرف مكان صنع الجموعة وكيفيّة صنعها”. تشتهر مجموعات Ostertagبالفطنة والغرابة وبدمج
PHOTO: ALEXANDER KOERNER/GETTY IMAGES FOR MARCEL OSTERTAG
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Man About Town :64
الرجل التم دّن
PHOTO: © CONNY MIRBACH
تقدّم التاجر العالية الجودة ف ميونخ باقة غنيّة من التصاميم كل شء ،من ستات بافاريّة تقليديّة وبدلت كلسيك ّية إل تشمل ّ خيارات أكث عصيّة للرجال .تلقي Emma Johnsonنظرة عل أبرزها ف مجال اللبس الرجاليّة ،تشتهر ميونخ بالسلوب الكلسيك القرون بلمسة عصيّة .وتبز هنا السمء التجاريّة الحليّة والص ّممون العاصون ،فيم تحافظ الخياطة الجيّدة والبدلت التقنة والواد التقليديّة عل مكانتها .يقول ،Frank Troch الدير التنفيذي لحد أكب متاجر اللبس الرجاليّة ف العال “ :Hirmerميونخ مدينة متن ّوعة ويافعة وينعكس ذلك ف الزياء الرجاليّة الحيويّة والتن ّوعة ”.يقع Hirmerف مبنى تاريخي ويحتل ستّة طوابق مش ّكلً ّ رائع ف شارع Kaufingerstrasse مهمً ف ميونخ .ل ب ّد لز ّوار ميونخ بهدف التس ّوق من زيارة معلمً ّ Hirmerلا يض ّم من مساعدي تس ّوق وخدمة تعديل اللبس ف اليوم نفسه وعروض أزياء دوريّة. تجد ف مناطق التس ّوق الساسيّة ف محيط شارعي كل العلمات Maximilianstrasseوّ Theatinerstrasse التجاريّة؛ من Louis Vuittonو DiorوValentino و Gucciإل Acneو LacosteوErmenegildo Zegna و ،Maison Margielaومتجر Burberryالرئيس الستحدث والستوحى من متجر العلمة ف شارع Regent Streetف لندن .إن كنت ف زيارة قصية إل ميونخ ،من الثال أن تقصد عال الزياء الرقمي هذا؛ تعرض جدرانه الكس ّوة
بالشاشات الضخمة مناسبات العلمة وعروض أزيائها ،ف حي يحمل طاقم العمل أجهزة iPadللنفاذ إل متاجر العلمة حول العال ،وستستفيد من خدمة شاء القطع التي انتقيتها عب النتنت من التجر؛ أ ّما إن كان لديك متّسعاً من الوقت ،فستتوه ف القسم الخصص للبس الرجال. ّ تجد قُبالة Burberryمركز التس ّوق Fünf HÖfeالذي الختصة بلبس الرجال عل يض ّم مجموعة كبية من العلمات ّ سبيل Baldessariniو ،Boggi Milanoف حي يقع متجر Oberpollingerالكبي عل بُعد عش دقائق سيا ً عل القدام. يوفّر مساحة تس ّوق تبلغ 34ألف متٍ مربّع ويبعث شعورا ً استثنائيّاً بالفخامة كم يشتهر كأحد أبرز التاجر الكبى ف ميونخ. ومن الجدير زيارة متجر Ludwig Beckالقريب ،الجميل قلباً وقالباً .يض ّم كل ما يخطر عل البال ،من موسيقى كلسيكيّة إل يستحق وحي ّ ملبس وأثاث وأكسسوارات؛ إنّه باختصار مصدر ٍ الزيارة. للّذين يبحثون عن متاجر أكث استقلليّ ًة ومص ّممي محليّي، اقصدوا علمة Hannibalالجديدة الولودة ف ميونخ وعلمة A Kind of Guiseالتي تقدّم ملبس وأكسسوارات مصنوعة ف ألانيا باستخدام مواد من حول العال .من الماكن الخرى التي ننصح بزيارتها ،متجر Schwittenbergالذي يض ّم علمات تجارية محليّة جيّدة ،ومتجر Wormlandالخبي بلبس الرجال ومتجر Stereoالقابل ل” Fünf HÖfeويض ّم علمات ألانيّة ملفتة للنظر ولديه مقهى ف الطابق العلوي. بعيدا ً عن وسط الدينة ،تجد كنزا ً حقيقيّاً مدفوناً ،وهو متجر التخصص بلبس الرجال لصاحبه .Philip Stolte Harvest ّ الؤسس كموضوع لدبلومه ف مجال طرأت الفكرة عل بال ّ التصميم التخطيطي وتكّن ف ما بعد من تنفيذ الشوع ف مشغل والده .يقع التجر ف Schwabingويض ّم علمات تجاريّة عل سبيل Folkو Our LegacyوComme des Garçons و Indnatويشتهر بجذب محبّي البتكار والدركي لتفاصيل ومستقل .يقول :Stotle ّ ميونخ لا يتمتّع به من أسلوب استثنائ “أعتقد أنّنا نتميّز عن غينا بفضل مقاربتنا التي ل تركّز عل التسويق فحسب ،بل عل تجربة التس ّوق بالجمل .بالطبع، من اله ّم أن نبيع منتجاتنا ،لكن ّنا نحرص أكث عل إبقاء زبائننا متح ّمسي للطّلع عل مشاريعنا ومضمونها”. حتّى اللبس اللانيّة التقليديّة شقّت طريقها إل ساحة الزياء الحليّة ،غالباً مع لس ٍة عصيّة .تقول ف هذا الصدد مص ّممة الزياء Yolanda Ngالستق ّرة ف ميونخ والسؤولة عن مد ّونة أسلوب الشارع “ :Von Zweiما ييّز ميونخ هو انجذاب كل الجيال فيها إل اللبس البافاريّة التقليديّة عل سبيل السوال ّ وبخاصة ف الجلدي lederhosenوستة trachtenjacke ّ مناسبات مثل مهرجان ”.Oktoberfestمن أبرز الماكن التي تأسس سنة 1842 تجد فيها هذه القطع هو ّ محل ّ .Lodenfrey وما زال يستخدم قمش اللّودن القاوم للمء لصناعة ملبس تقليديّة ،كم يشمل تصاميم عصيّة لعلمات ألانيّة وعاليّة. خاص بيونخ ،ث ّة مقاربة بالرغم من عدم وجود أسلوب ّ منفتحة فريدة من نوعها إل الوضة .يظهر التلقي بي الكلسيك كل أرجاء الدينة ،من دور الزياء العاليّة الكبى والعصي ف ّ إل الحلت الصغية والص ّممي الستقلّي ،فتبح موقعاً حيويّاً للتس ّوق. globalblue.com
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ترجمة باللغة العربيّة Designed For Life :54
تصميم مستدام
PHOTO: FORSTER & MARTIN
عندما يتعلّق المر بالتس ّوق للمنزل ،تشكّل ميونخ عاصمة التألّق لكل ف ألانيا .يسلّط Josh Simsالضوء عل التاجر التي ل ب ّد ّ زائر أن يقصدها ل عجب أ ّن برلي مركز مه ّم للفنون لا تتمتّع به من ٍ إرث ثقاف واكتظاظ سكّا“ يقارب ال” 3.5مليون نسمة .من جه ٍة أخرى، يعيش ف ميونخ 1.4مليون نسمة ل غي ،ما يجعلها مدينة صغية وهادئة مقارن ًة مع برلي .وقد يخيّل للبعض أنّها غي ملئة للمعاصين؛ إل إن صادف وكنت تج ّهز منزلك .إذ وبالرغم من حجمها أو ثقلها الثقاف ،تشكّل ميونخ إحدى أبرز مراكز تس ّوق الديكور ف ألانيا .من أثاث وتجهيزات منزليّة إل ٍ تحف وأدوات زينة ،تحفل الدينة بالحلت التواضعة والضخمة لتقدّم أفضل التصاميم الكلسيكيّة والعاصة. يعود ،Kustermannأحد أبرز التاجر ف الدينة ،إل سنة .1798وقد كان لديه ٌ خاص به ،صنع فيه الحديد مسبك ّ لبناء محطّة سكك الحديد ف ميونخ والكثي من الجسور وأغطية يختص التجر بتجهيزات النزل :أكواب غرف الصيانة ف الدينةّ . وخزفيّات ولوازم الطاولة ولوازم الطهي .بالضافة إل ذلك ،إنّه أكب متجر من نوعه ف ألانيا. إن كنت تفضّ ل القطع الكلسيكيّة العصيّة ،تو ّجه إل متجر الحب إل قلوب Kotonواستكشف الوجه الخر من التصميم ّ أي شباب برلي التح ّررين .ستجد فيه أشياء ل تجدها بسهولة ف ّ مكان آخر .من القطع الميّزة التي قدّمها بعض أه ّم الصانعي ف هذا الجال ،ومنهم Knollو Verpanو Artekو،Vitra
كراس Pantonمحدودة الكميّة باللّون الخض ،وكراس مائدة خاصة من Eamesمحدودة الكميّة باللّون الرمادي ،ومجموعة ّ كراس ومساند القدام Eamesمن اللومينيوم وبعض القطع من ابتكار مص ّممي معاصين عل سبيل مرآة Cyprisللمهندسة .Nina Mairكم يض ّم Kotonباقة رائعة من القطع القدية العريقة .يكن أن تختار طاولة George Nelsonالز ّودة بغطا ٍء منزلق أو كرس Ron Arad Soft Little Heavyأو حتّى جبية رِجل نادرة من Eamesمن الخشب ال ُعاكس ،تفي بالغرض بعد نهار تس ّوق مضني ف شوارع الدينة. أ ّما ،Thiersch 15فينقسم إل جزئي؛ متجر ومعرض، ويبيع قطعاً من مجموعة مميّزة تض ّم ما يزيد عن 70علمة مختصة بالتصميم العاص .اختيت القطع هنا لا تتمتّع تجاريّة ّ به من عصيّة وإتقان ،فتجد أسم ًء ألانيّة أمثال Müller وأخرى إيطاليّة مثل DePadovaوداناركيّة عل سبيل Carl .Hansenف ما يتعلّق بالتجر بح ّد ذاته ،يشكّل بجدرانه البيضاء مساحة هادئة تحثّك عل التأ ّمل والتفكي بشتياتك. لكن ما سبب تلقي هذه التاجر ف ميونخ؟ تقول Jasmin ،Javidمديرة التسويق ف “ :Kustermannقد يتفاجأ الناس من خارج ميونخ بوجود متجر بهذا الحجم ومن هذا النوع طبيعي“ .مقارنة مع برلي، ف الدينة ”.لك ّنها تضيف أ ّن ذلك ّ ميونخ مدينة محافظة لكن معظم سكّانها مثقّفي ...ف الواقع، تشكّل ميونخ إحدى أغنى الدن ف ألانيا .بالتال ،لدى سكّانها الال والرغبة بالنفاق عل قطع الديكور .كم لديهم منازل كبى يضعونها فيها”. لكن هذا ل يعني اعتمد متاجر الديكور ف ميونخ عل ما أقل شهرة .إذهب إل هو متوقّع ،إذ تعرض كذلك أعمل أسمء ّ Ben’sعل سبيل الثال ،لتجد الثاث النادر من الزجاج والفولذ من ابتكار الصانع اليطال Gallotti & Radiceأو النارة الزجاجيّة من شكة Pulpoالتي تعمل مع بعض الص ّممي اللان مثل Peter Raackeو Sybille PfeifferوHarry .Thalerوف متجر ،Magazinتجد تصاميم من أمثال Flos و Luceplanوالص ّمم اللا“ القيم ف ميونخ Ingo Maurer بالضافة إل كافّة أنواع قطع الديكور من تصميم الشكة .وإن محل Grad 1260حيث أردت مكاناً أكث بساطة ،إذهب إل ّ ت ُع ّد ف الوقع نفسه قط ٌع من الخزف والحجر من تصميم Petra Fischerالتي افتتحت محلّها منذ حوال 15سنة. تقول مص ّممة اللبس الحبوكة Sabine Stadtherr التي افتتحت متجرها Room to Dreamمنذ سنتي“ :تفتح محلت التصميم الصغية الستقلّة أكث فأكث ف ميونخ الن نتيجة ملل الشخاص من رؤية النتجات نفسها أينم ذهبوا حول العال. يتوقّعون أن يكتشفوا شيئاً جديدا ً لدى مجيئهم إل ميونخ”. بالضافة إل القطع الحبوكة بحسب الطلب ،من حامل الوا“ يتخصص التجر بالقطع القاوم للحرارة إل أغطية الكنباتّ ، السكاندينافيّة التي تجمعها Stadtherrمن أسفارها. تقول ممزحة“ :يروج ف ألانيا اليوم السلوب السكنديناف الكث تواضعاً وبساطة ،بالرغم من استغراق الوضة وقتاً أطول لتصل إلينا هنا ف الجنوب .انتقلت من عال الزياء إل التصميم أقل ارتباطاً بالوضة وأكث استدامة .ففي هذا العال، الداخل لنّه ّ يستثمر الشخاص بأشياء يحتفظون بها لفت ٍة طويلة ول يرمونها ف كل موسم”. نهاية ّ
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ONE TO REMEMBER Wellendorff has created a special piece of jewellery to celebrate the first anniversary of its standalone store in Munich. The exclusive Munich ring – available only in the brand’s boutique in the Bavarian capital – is a fitting tribute to the city. Made from 18-carat white gold with the signature diamond ‘W’, the rotatable ring is decorated with an engraved Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 99
wave pattern picked out in turquoise blue enamel, inspired by the Isar river and the green of the Englischer Garten. Hidden on the inside band is an extra feature: an engraving in gold of the outline of the Munich skyline, making it a supremely elegant reminder of any visit. fm Wellendorff Munich ring, €12,900, Wellendorff, Dienerstrasse 18, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2102 0790, wellendorff.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 90
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