SHOP Munich SS17

MUNICH | 慕尼黑 | МЮНХЕН |

MUNICH Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2017

Page 34 HIDDEN GEMS: revealing Munich’s most inspiring jewellery designers

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind.

For more than 135 years, the name

customers express when they purchase

“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost

jewellery or timepieces. Our pieces of

expertise in the art of making jewellery

jewellery uphold international standards

and timepieces. We offer a unique

and are born in our own atelier. This is

selection of valuable treasures at 27

true for unusual one-of-a-kind items

Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are

as well as for our diverse assortment

especially proud because for more than

of classic pieces with brilliant-cut

a century we have been privileged to

diamonds. And a century-old friendship

contribute to the grand feelings that our

links us with the world’s foremost watch

We accept all credit cards.

www.wempe.com

manufactories. You will find WEMPE

always be available to meet your

showrooms at the loveliest locations

individual needs. We cordially invite you

in great European metropolises and in

to discover an abundance of interesting

New York City. Each shop also offers

new items and exclusive special models

service or advice whenever you require

at one of Europe’s leading jewellers.

it, so you can be certain that we will

We look forward to your visit!

Maximilianstraße 6, T +49.(0)89.29 12 99 muenchen.max@wempe.de Weinstraße 11, T +49.(0)89.242 38 06 muenchen.weinstrasse@wempe.de A. Lange & Söhne Boutique Perusastraße 3-4, T +49.(0)89.255 44 780 lange-soehne-muenchen@wempe.de HAMBURG LONDON PARIS NEW YORK

The Oberpollinger department store offers its customers a stunning range of exquisite lifestyle goods spread over 34,000 m2. Featuring a Designer Boulevard, prestigious fashion labels, a new department for urban wear and sneakers, a special Concierge Service, gourmet specialities as well as anything a discerning customer requires. Visit this exciting world of luxury just waiting to be explored right in the heart of Bavaria’s capital. The department store first opened its doors in 1905. It has been expanded and continually modernized over the course of its more than 100-year history. Innovative interior plus an exclusive selection of products and services place the Oberpollinger a cut above the rest.

AIGNER · BELSTAFF · BOGNER · BOSS · BOTTEGA VENETA · BURBERRY CÉLINE · COCCINELLE · DIOR · FENDI · GIORGIO ARMANI · GUCCI LACOSTE · LONGCHAMP · LOUIS VUITTON · MCM · MICHAEL KORS MIU MIU · MEISSEN · MONT BLANC · MULBERRY · PRADA · RALPH LAUREN RIMOWA · SALVATORE FERRAGAMO · TOD’S · WMF · ZWILLING AND MANY MORE

TIME IS A LUXURY, SO LET US MAKE TIME FOR YOU! The Oberpollinger is delighted to offer you many exclusive services, such as: PERSONAL SHOPPING SERVICE We will happily provide you with a Personal Shopper who will accompany, serve and expertly advise you throughout your visit to Oberpollinger. Our Personal Shoppers will make your shopping trip a unique and individual experience. We cater specifically to your personal preferences, ideas and wishes.

To book your personal appointment, please contact us. T +49 89 2902 5120 · concierge@oberpollinger.de CONCIERGE SERVICE BEAUTY LOUNGE GIFT-WRAPPING SERVICE COMPLIMENTARY WIFI CUSTOMER SERVICES IN-HOUSE TAILOR TAX FREE AVAILABLE AT EACH CASH POINT. Currency choice available, which allows you to pay in your own currency.

Oberpollinger München ∙ Neuhauser Str. 18 ∙ 80331 München ∙ T +49 89 2902 30 www.oberpollinger.de ∙ Opening Hours: Mon - Sat 10 am – 8 pm

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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫أملانيا‬ 德国

Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul

Welcome to Munich

Italy

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this engaging culture hub. Munich has much to offer, as our guide on page 49 reveals. Readers who appreciate highend design will enjoy our feature on the inspiring jewellers who call the city home (page 34), and in this issue we also explore one of Munich’s leading concept stores.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Munich. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without filling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

Lake Saimaa

Japan

Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Oslo Paris 巴黎

Portugal Prague Rome

Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna

Чехия

Emma Cheevers /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

GlobalBlue环球蓝联

/globalblue

@shopcontent

ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Singapore

THE YACHT-MASTER II The ultimate skippers’ watch, steeped in yachting competition and performance, featuring an innovative regatta chronograph with a unique programmable countdown.

It doesn’t just tell time. It tells history.

OYSTER PERPETUAL YACHT-MASTER II

10

CONTRIBUTORS

Ginger Rose Clark Ginger Rose Clark is SHOP’s news editor. She has an MA in fashion journalism from the London College of Fashion.

She previously worked as a stylist and has written for a number of publications on style, travel and luxury. globalblue.com

Onur Unaltay Onur Unaltay, one of SHOP’s artworking assistants, studied graphic design at Middlesex University. He has designed men’s clothing for various international companies and is an avid fan of football, hip hop and fashion.

Hannah Lewis SHOP’s features editor Hannah Lewis read English literature and language at the University of Oxford before studying for an MA at the London College of Fashion.

She has previously produced her own magazine in London.

ILLUSTRATION: ANDREW NYE; PHOTO (RIGHT): KATIE WILSON ELL

Andrew Nye Andrew Nye created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Munich. His eye-catching artwork has previously been commissioned

by Barclays, Eurostar and Metro magazine, among others. His graphic, conceptual approach makes him a perfect illustrator for this cover, based on our feature about the city’s groundbreaking jewellery designers on page 34. It shows Munich’s distinctive Frauenkirche cathedral as a cleverly made jewellery box.

Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

It’s a lot more fun, if it’s tax free!

Grand Gourmet | Knife set 5 pieces

Gourmet Plus | Cookware set 7 pieces

with WMF Performance Cut®

RSP € 384,75

RSP € 789,90

now € 289,-*

now € 499,-*

You find us at: *sum of the prices

WMF Stores München Weinstraße 4, Tel. 089 / 296751 Hanauer Straße 68, Tel. 089 /14010676 Willy-Brandt-Platz 5, Tel. 089 / 93094465

WMF Outet Ingolstadt Village Otto-Hahn-Str. 1, Tel. 0841 / 8869933 www.wmf.com

In the mood for fashion?

Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices. visit us: www.c-a.com facebook.com/ca München: Kaufingerstraße 13 • Bayerstraße 21 • Moosach Olympia Einkaufszentrum

Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам. . .

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Andrew Nye Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen

Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion assistant Rebecca Rhys-Evans

Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

News editor Ginger Rose Clark

Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien

Print Dane Consultancy

Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan

AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworker Milkha Lala Artworker Samantha Junak Artworking assistants Shirley Lau, Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener

GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Head of commercial Europe/ Latin America Pier Francesco Nervini Head of commercial Central Europe Ronald Christen Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Marketing specialists Julia Monod, Alexandra Rudenko Sales manager Pino Dufter Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Tourismusamt München, Sendlingerstrasse 1, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2339 6500, muenchen-tourist.de

Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard Commercial artworking assistant Natalie Schroeter

Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Content corporate production manager Steve Brown Corporate production coordinator Inga Abramian Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2017 Global Blue

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CONTENTS PAGE

PAGE

34

PRODUCTS

FEATURES

20

34

Cover story:

42

Truly Brilliant Munich’s most exciting jewellery designers fuse traditional craftsmanship with contemporary designs to create pieces to be treasured, says Hannah Lewis A New Dimension Proudly German fashion label Marc Cain has revolutionised its production process, and the results are impressive – and far-reaching.

Ginger Rose Clark investigates

22

Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Munich this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories

NEWS 28

31

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Munich News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

PAGE

42

Above (clockwise from top left): Schwittenberg concept store; jeweller Patrik Muff and his wife Bele; a jumper being created at the Marc Cain production facility

PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT) CFABIAN FRINZEL ; (TOP RIGHT) © FRANK STOLLE ; (BOTTOM) © MARC CAIN

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CONTENTS GUIDE 49

PAGE

56

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Munich

PAGE

74

ESSENTIALS 63

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS

SOUVENIR

64 美文翻译 67 Русский Перевод 72

74

The essential item to bring home

VISIT US ONLINE...

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru globalblue.cn 每日更 新精品购物信息， 分享海外省钱秘笈

FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- GlobalBlue GlobalBlue环球蓝联 /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent Above (from top left): Paulaner am Nockherberg is one of Munich’s most appealing beer gardens; Antonia Zander spring/summer 2017

PHOTOS (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): SARAH L. DONOVAN CC BY-ND 2.0; MIU RECK PHOTOGRAPHY; MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

E NGL IS H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

Rosenstrasse 6 Munich

CH ECK OUT

TRAVEL IN STYLE This canvas carryall from Closed makes a smart addition to your luggage collection for summer. Though it is technically one of the brand’s men’s styles, women will also appreciate its many qualities.

Lightweight and just the right size to use as a carryon or as a spacious weekend bag, it has chic leather straps and a zipped closure to keep belongings safe. Closed was founded in 1978 as a denim label, but has since expanded to offer menswear, womenswear and the unisex

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 63

EQL collection. Its classic pieces with intricate details are produced in Italy and designed in Germany. fm Closed carryall, €379, Closed, Brienner Strasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2166 5507, closed.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 58

kaufhof.de

GALERIA KAUFHOF MAKES YOU FALL IN LOVE WITH GERMANY Enjoy shopping at our famous department store in Munich.

Free WLAN in our store!

We offer the service Downtown Cash Refund and pay out all your Global Blue German Tax Free Forms.

Galeria Kaufhof GmbH | Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1 | 50676 KÅ¡ln

MUNICH, AM MARIENPLATZ

22 | P R O D U C T S

TRUE BLUE

3

Opt for different shades of navy when packing your spring/summer travel essentials 1

4

5

2

1. Gant jacket, €1,699.99, Gant, Hofstatt, Sendlinger Strasse 10, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2322 5731, gant.com

3. Salvatore Ferragamo bag, €1,400, Salvatore Ferragamo, Maximilianstrasse 29, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2916 0911, ferragamo.com

2. Red Wing shoes, €219, Red Wing, Fraunhoferstrasse 8, 80469 Munich, +49 (0)89 2421 0310, redwingberlin.com

4. Frescobol Carioca swim shorts, €170, Lodenfrey, Maffeistrasse 7, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 210390, frescobolcarioca.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 63

5. Comme des Garçons Blackpepper eau de parfum, 100ml, €80, City-Parfümerie, Tal 14, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 228 5222, comme-des-garcons.com

24 | P R O D U C T S

FEEL THE HEAT Mix red, gold and summery prints for a bold yet elegant effect

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3

4

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1. Wunderkind dress, €1,775, Wunderkind, Promenadeplatz 2, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2102 0750, wunderkind.com

3. Montblanc Bohème ExoTourbillon watch, €47,500, Montblanc, Maximilianstrasse 14, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2554 6706, montblanc.com

2. Max Mara shoes, €409, Max Mara, Fünf Höfe, Theatinerstrasse 11, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2424 3766, maxmara.com

4. Hermès bracelets, from €335, Hermès, Maximilianstrasse 22, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 291 9703, hermes.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 63

5. Emporio Armani bag, price on request, Emporio Armani, Fünf Höfe, Theatinerstrasse 12, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 550 5280, armani.com

PHOTOS: (3) JOERG WISCHMANN/WISCHMANN.DE; (4) VICENTE SAHUC

2

strellson.com

26 | P R O D U C T S

CALL OF BEAUTY Keep things simple with lightweight skin creams, barely there make-up and a summer-ready scent

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1 3

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1. LA Bruket travel kit, €55, Estetica, Diefenbacherstrasse 45, 81479 Munich, +49 (0)89 796831, labruket.se

3. Und Gretel creme eye stick, €35, Amour Fou, Neuturmstrasse 1, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2323 6997, undgretel.de

2. Zoeva eyebrush set, €75, Douglas, Weinstrasse 7, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 255 4276, zoevacosmetics.com

4. Boss The Scent eau de parfum, 50ml, €79.95, Boss, Maximilianstrasse 21, 80539 Munich, +49 (0)89 2421 8880, hugoboss.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 63

5. Annemarie Börlind Anti-Age Revitalizing Cream, 15ml, €44, Müller, Tal 23-25, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 291 9720, boerlind.com

Schuster – the Sports Brand Store.

Here is a selection of our 500 brands:

New Store Hofstatt / Sendlinger Str. 10

SPORTHAUS SCHUSTER

MUNICH – RIGHT AT MARIENPLATZ ROSENSTRASSE 3–5 AND HOFSTATT / SENDLINGER STR. 10

ONLINESHOP: WWW.SPORT-SCHUSTER.DE

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SHOP WINDOW

Since its opening in 2010, Schwittenberg has become one of Munich’s leading fashion destinations. Located in the historic Luitpoldblock building, a setting it shares with brands such as Aesop and Acne Studios, the concept store is a must-visit.

The minimalist look of the interior – conceived by local

architecture studio Hildmann Wilke – serves as a blank canvas for a frequent change of fittings and furniture in collaboration with designers and galleries. These temporary furnishings are available to buy, along with the meticulously curated fashion offering. Vanessa Bruno, Dries Van Noten,

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 63

MSGM and A Kind of Guise are just some of the appealing designer labels in stock for women, men and children. grc Schwittenberg, Salvatorplatz 4, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2601 9055, schwittenberg.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 58

PHOTO: FABIAN FRINZEL

STYLE CENTRAL

THE WORLD‘S LARGEST MEN‘S FASHION STORE

In the heart of Munich HIRMER offers fashion highlights spread over 9,000 m 2 of shopping experience. On 6 floors you will find the entire world of menswear with all leading brands:

Monday – Friday: from 9.30 a.m. to 8.00 p.m. | Saturday: from 9.00 a.m. to 8.00 p.m.

Kaufingerstraße 28 | 80331 München | Phone +49 89 23683-0 | www.hirmer.de

HIRMERMENST YLE

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IN BRIEF Already well established in Germany, Dutch lingerie brand Hunkemöller has added further stores to its roster, including a new retail space on Munich’s Kaufingerstrasse

TIMELESS BEAUTY The Tiffany T collection, first unveiled in 2014, is inspired by New York, with nods to the city’s architecture as well as its forward-thinking energy. Rings and bracelets crafted from 18-carat yellow, rose and white gold or sterling silver incorporate the graphic

lines of the letter T. The Tiffany T wrap bracelets and rings as well as the Tiffany T Smile styles are completed by the recently introduced Tiffany T Two bands, including the pictured ring (€8,450). Simple yet incredibly elegant, the diamond-studded

pieces are a heartfelt homage to both the brand’s New York roots and its heritage. grc Tiffany & Co, Residenzstrasse 11, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 290 0430, tiffany.com

stands for protection. As with all of Wellendorff’s rings, it is finished off with the company’s signature diamond-crowned W. grc

Wellendorff, Dienerstrasse 18, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 2102 0790, wellendorff.com

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 59

PHOTOS (FROM TOP): T|TIFFANY & CO. STUDIO; FGRAF

IN GOOD HANDS Family-run Wellendorff, founded in 1893, is firmly rooted in craftsmanship. The brand is known for its innovative jewellery, including rings such as the pictured style from the Angel’s Wings collection, which is inspired by a true love story. The exquisite gold ring features white enamel details, and the angel engraved on the inner surface globalblue.com

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 54

32 | N E W S

The Storey has opened in Munich’s Oberpollinger as part of a comprehensive redevelopment of the much-loved department store.

Based around the idea of urbanwear, the space carries a

FLYING START Travellers passing through Munich Airport’s Terminal 2 can now shop for Bally’s quality products. Last autumn, the Swiss luxury label opened a new store at the airport, its second travel retail

wide-ranging medley of international names and local designers, including LibertineLibertine, Alpha Industries and Indigo People to name just a few. The Storey makes a point of exploring the lines between sporty and formal dressing codes against a backdrop by designer duo Gonzalez Haase:

contrasting forms, colours and materials all come into play in a setting that expertly balances tradition and modernity. grc The Storey at Oberpollinger, Neuhauser Strasse 18, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 290230, oberpollinger.de

store in Germany after Frankfurt. The space stocks key styles across accessories and shoes, including the pictured Henrika sneakers (€325). Bally was founded in 1851, starting out as footwear brand creating fine shoes from premium materials.

Today, the brand still stands

for quality and craftsmanship, with the product range having grown to encompass bags, accessories and clothing for men and women. grc Bally, Terminal 2, Munich Airport, +49 (0)89 9758 4444, bally.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 63

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 52

PHOTO: (TOP) DANNY KURZ/DANNY-KURZ.COM

IT’S SO MODERN

PHOTO: COURTESY HEMMERLE

34 | F E AT U R E S

xx xx

xx

Above: English caption xxxxx qui officiducius ma nit fuga. Faccus in coreratus nistora nat quam aborecepere, et modi quis cum facil

S H O P | 35

Munich’s most exciting jewellery designers fuse traditional craftsmanship with contemporary designs to create pieces to be treasured, says Hannah Lewis

36 | F E AT U R E S

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PHOTO: (TOP LEFT) © FRANK STOLLE

ith a strong history of craftsmanship and a wealth of talented creatives – from designers to goldsmiths – Munich is often seen as Germany’s capital of jewellery. The city is home to many of the nation’s most respected names, and when it comes to highly individual handmade pieces, Munich’s jewellery brands are leading the way.

Patrik Muff is one of the most exciting young jewellery brands in Germany. Its eponymous founder was born in Switzerland to a family of craftsmen and, perhaps naturally, always felt a real passion for great workmanship and luxurious materials. Having trained as a goldsmith and also studied art, he eventually found his home in Munich, where he set up his studio with his wife, Bele. Patrik designs and creates the atelier’s standout creations, while Bele oversees the showroom and the image of the brand. This is a family business, and a real labour of love.

Patrik Muff’s jewellery is typified by artistic touches. In the words of Patrik, it is the Previous page: a ring being created at the Hemmerle atelier Above (clockwise from top left): Patrik and Bele Muff; Patrik Muff Afro collection; signature bracelet; octopus ring

S H O P | 37

jewellery’s ‘diversity’ and the unique touches of the ‘neo-baroque’ that make the atelier’s ‘own specific signature’. He is known for taking inspiration from cultures and ideas across the world. His Afro collection, for example, is inspired by the handcrafted jewellery of the Tuareg people of North Africa, and features handmade amulets, earrings and rings in a variety of precious metals. His pieces are designed to be timeless: ‘Every single piece I have designed is still offered in our showroom,’ he explains.

Patrik Muff is also famous for its collaborations, often with iconic German brands. A limited-edition collection with Birkenstock features handcrafted sterling silver Patrik Muff buckles on the brand’s worldfamous Arizona and Gizeh sandals. Stunning hand-painted porcelain pendants, made in collaboration with Nymphenburg, take the shape of koi carp or fragments of coral.

Patrik Muff jewellery is bold and creative, and the same can be said for that of Sévigné,

A level of thought, time and – crucially – love has gone into every piece of jewellery that can’t help but shine through another Munich-based jeweller. Founded in 1979 by Renate Schrems and Jonas Fink, the brand is known for its thoughtful and often extravagant jewellery designs. ‘The creations are a tribute to confident women with extraordinary taste and a sophisticated style,’ says Schrems of her designs, which she describes as ‘unconventional’. Indeed,

Above (clockwise from top): Patrik Muff’s collaboration with Nymphenburg; Sévigné Madonnen collection; Patrik Muff Afro collection; Sévigné Madonnen collection

38 | F E AT U R E S

‘WE BLUR THE LANGUAGES OF ART AND DESIGN TO CREATE JEWELLERY DEFINED BY POWERFULLY AUDACIOUS MODERNITY’

Sévigné pieces are not for the shy: inspired by everything from flora and fauna to religious iconography, the brand’s bold creations always tell a story.

One of Sévigné’s best-loved collections is Madonnen (‘Madonnas’), which was inspired by Schrems’ spiritual leanings and has become almost an icon for the label. ‘[It] protects our company and employees with its positive energy,’ she says. The range beautifully juxtaposes the traditional motif of the madonna with modern shapes and luxurious materials – from chandelier earrings dripping with colourful precious stones to chunky yellow gold sovereign rings edged in diamonds. As with all Sévigné pieces, these are handcrafted in the brand’s atelier using exemplary materials and, the key thing that Schrems feels sets the brand apart, ‘the highest quality craftsmanship’.

It’s not just modern brands that are pushing the boundaries of jewellery design in Munich. Now run by the fourth generation Above: Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle

of its eponymous founding family, Hemmerle came into existence in 1893 when brothers Joseph and Anton took over a goldsmith specialising in medals and orders. They gave their new brand a distinctive style, which swiftly led to it being appointed Purveyor to the Court of Luitpold, Prince Regent of Bavaria, firmly establishing it as one of Germany’s leading jewellers.

Never content to rest on their laurels, the members of the family have been looking to the future for over 120 years. In 2006, husband and wife Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle began running the company alongside Christian’s parents Stefan and Sylveli. As Christian states, Hemmerle is ‘very much a family affair’, and between them the four have cemented a strong vision.

‘We blur the languages of art and design to create jewellery defined by powerfully audacious modernity, underpinned by our dedication to the highest levels of craftsmanship,’ explains Christian.

PHOTO: COURTESY HEMMERLE

English Pull Quote Russian Pull Quote Chinese Pull Quote

S H O P | 39

PHOTOS: COURTESY HEMMERLE

ACITISIT QUI DOLUPTATEM NOBIS MAXIMINIS ET ASPEL EL IM ETUR REICIUM ET IPSUS SI RE DOLORIO MOLUPTATIAS QUE NIENDIG NISSITAT.

Above (clockwise from top): the Hemmerle boutique on Maximilianstrasse; metals and gems in the brand’s atelier; its earrings with diamonds, brass, bronze and white gold; wooden bangle with diamonds, gold and bronze

The team at Hemmerle is not afraid to take risks. Visitors to the boutique on Maximilianstrasse will find stunning handcrafted pieces to suit every taste, from the modern to the more traditional. For formal occasions, look out for sparkling earrings formed from complementary precious materials – white gold and tourmaline, or bronze, white gold and diamonds. Thick bangles carved from wood – from olive to ebony – and finished with precious metals and stones such as diamonds or jade will add a fashion-forward touch to any outfit.

Each piece by Hemmerle is a one-off, a testament to the fact that the team sees high jewellery as art. The same view is held

by Patrik Muff and Sévigné, and it is this approach that makes all three brands stand out. From the smallest creation to the most extravagant, a level of thought, time and – crucially – love has gone into every piece of jewellery that can’t help but shine through in the finished product Above (from top): Hemmerle’s detailed jewellery takes many hours to create; the brand’s boutique on Maximilianstrasse

PHOTOS: COURTESY HEMMERLE

40 | F E AT U R E S

Bavaria, A wealth of unique and original attractions, of destinations treasured by visitors both native and foreign.

In the official museum shops of the Bavarian palaces, buying a gift becomes an experience that rounds off the visit to the Bavarian attractions and provides long-lasting memories.

The official shops in Nymphenburg Palace and Munich Residence.

www.kulturgut.de

PHOTO: © MARC CAIN

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Proudly German fashion label Marc Cain has revolutionised its production process, and the results are impressive – and far-reaching. Ginger Rose Clark investigates

O

ften unheeded, the sewn-in labels that tell us where our clothes were made point to destinations that we may never have set foot in. Yet increasingly, leading brands are changing their approach, including one of Germany’s fashion powerhouses. Upon unfolding a brand new, freshly purchased Marc Cain jumper, you’ll notice a label inscribed with the words ‘100% Made in Germany’. Your new garment just happens to be a product of the brand’s latest innovative system, 3D Knit & Wear.

3D Knit & Wear and localised production go hand in hand, not least because the Marc Cain brand is firmly rooted in Germany. It is based in the small town of Bodelshausen in Baden-Württemberg, and the brand employs almost a thousand people in Germany, many of whom work at the headquarters. As a result, a substantial part of the Marc Cain system is carried out on the premises, from marketing and design through to production.

In the clean, open space of the production 65

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site in Bodelshausen, row upon row of knitting machines are lined up, reaching as far as the eye can see. In operation 24 hours a day, five days a week, complex pieces of machinery, laden with spools of wool, hum with the rhythmic back-and-forth knitting movement.

The headquarters is equipped with no fewer than 100 knitting machines, consisting of 92 flat and 8 circular models.

In a rethinking of traditional production methods, these machines are the secret to 3D Knit & Wear. As Helmut Schlotterer – founder, owner and chairman – says, ‘Our IT activities are a pillar of our management culture, in particular the software we develop ourselves.’

Thanks to his aversion to bought-in, standardised software solutions, the company dedicated a total of 600 days to training inhouse technicians in order to implement the 3D Knit & Wear model. This has resulted in a bespoke system that has been adjusted to Marc Cain’s unique requirements.

A sketch, elaborated during a meeting Previous page: Marc Cain spring/summer 2017 Above (clockwise from top left): Marc Cain craftsmanship; the collection is 100% made in Germany; the brand’s factory

PHOTOS: © MARC CAIN

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Innovation has always been at the very core of Marc Cain’s culture since the brand was founded in 1973 with the creative team, serves as a template from which the knitting technician can then program the knitting machine. From a design perspective, the 3D Knit & Wear system has obvious advantages over previous production methods when it comes to making jumpers and cardigans, even skirts and coats. The software and hardware allow for a large variety of patterns. Smooth knit or ribbed, cable stitch or jacquards, made from yarn creations sourced exclusively from Germany and Italy, can all be achieved on these machines.

Schlotterer explains that the 3D Knit & Wear model has turned production on its head.

‘Conventional flat knitting machines generally

only produce individual components, such as sleeves, collars and front and back sections,’ he says. ‘But with the latest models in Marc Cain’s machine plant, a completely finished pullover is produced by one machine in a single-step process.’ This new method means that there are no seams, making for a better fit and a more comfortable finish. What’s more, since a finished garment comes out of one machine, the assembly stage is eliminated from the procedure, resulting in much shorter production times.

Besides being an innovative approach to design through technology, the benefits of this new method are numerous and 3D

Above (clockwise from left): Helmut Schlotterer, Marc Cain’s founder and owner; a jumper being designed and made

Knit & Wear is a clever way of operating in a sometimes over-globalised world. As Schlotterer succinctly puts it, ‘Marc Cain is firmly bucking the industry trend. Instead of outsourcing, the motto at Marc Cain is insourcing.’ This motto is the catalyst for a more sustainable model and Schlotterer explains that having most of the production centralised in one location, ‘provides ecological and economic benefits’. Since garments are not being shuttled back and forth from one location to another, both time and energy are saved. Modern machines, meanwhile, offer the means to reduce material waste. Schlotterer sees domestic production as an entirely positive development for the workforce.

‘Domestic production contributes to job

security – in fact, the creation of new jobs is being planned,’ he explains.

This forward-thinking approach is nothing new. Since Marc Cain was founded in 1973, innovation has been at the very core of its brand culture, a spirit that has led to the company gaining the global presence it enjoys today. ‘Permanent innovation is the basis for research and development at Marc Cain,’ says Schlotterer. ‘Every day I try to impart this spirit to our employees; if I didn’t do this, it would be impossible to maintain a production base here in the long term.’ Marc Cain’s 3D Knit & Wear is very much a reflection of this ethos: in more than one sense of the word, it offers a seamless operation from the heart of southern Germany

Above (clockwise from top left): Marc Cain production facility; two items from the Marc Cain spring/summer 2017 collection; colourful fabrics at the brand’s production facility

PHOTOS: © MARC CAIN

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Our unique expertise allows us to offer extensive knowledge on key trends, products, brands and boutiques, as well as important information on how to save money by shopping tax free. In addition, SHOP provides restaurant and hotel reviews and interviews with elite fashion designers as well as maps of key shopping areas and information on partner retailer locations. With all this and more, SHOP is the essential international shopping companion.

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G U I D E | 49

GUIDE

PHOTO: DANIEL STOCKMAN CC BY-SA 2.0

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Munich with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from leafy beer gardens to sustainable fashion stores. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/munich.

Above: a view of the Monopteros, a graceful Greek-style temple in Munich’s Englischer Garten

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Hemmerle Discover the unique creations from this family-run jeweller and find a striking piece that works with your style.

E I NST EINST R. Hemmerle, Maximilianstrasse 14, 80539 Munich, MAX-WEBER-PLATZ +49 (0)89 242 2600, hemmerle.com FEATURED ON PAGE 34

Ludwigsvorstadt-Isarvorstadt EN

Schwittenberg This concept store offers PRI N some ofZ Rthe exciting E G Emost NTEN Sof T RGuise labels, including A Kind . and MSGM, as well as furniture.

Schwittenberg, Salvatorplatz 4, Hotel Prinzregent 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2601 9055,

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Closed Discover the German brand’s clothing for men and women, alongside its stellar range of accessories.

Closed, Brienner Strasse 1, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2166 5507,

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Paulaner Am Nockherberg Emulate the locals and enjoy a drink or two in one of Munich’s best beer gardens.

Paulaner Am Nockherberg, Hochstrasse 77, 81541 Munich, +49 (0)89 459 9130, nockherberg.com

ROSENHEIMER PLATZ

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Rosenstrasse & Sendlinger Strasse SE R HE AC SB ES M EL HR K M TI RE R NA ● TE S OP L T ER ● A R CK L EISH A N NG C M LI ● RO E AU T RO UL ● S B EK -B TIC ● EL UT OP ● KA ● TZ E Y e n EI AC K E AB on NW F K E EJ E● HÖ TH H R SL SC O UH OT ● ECC N O -A P ER ● CH ● THE LER LM R - S CH S PA ● AD FIT Y ● RT TE ● PO IE& ET DR T S ICH TR MB S● ER E P A O ● ID AN DR I T CR SU PL R AD AN O ● ER ● JBF G T AB SE S I H ● OR PH ● EU AB OP O ME AT LI SH D - G BE DE DY OY ● CO BO R LL E TH TTE E D● ● TR IBO AN ● ● H RL ER LO TC B E S I LV ● PO TIM UIK O' L● RE ● Q RC PA E S ● MA ER AP AL ● X U K EC RT A N E S EO R G N IC BA ZE E ● ER ● ET ES OR ER E AM H H LON & M CH LL ● EK IS ● Y E TH P R F RIKE OE ● ● MOR IBO APO F DE ● TCH M LE H A T SH ON ● A ● SC EN VISI SE ● AS E 17 ● K AR TZ AU I N C RI V KR RP ● GÖ R CO M ● UC SU ’S U S ● M VI HM ● LIPP OH LE SC ● KAD A● DI ● ● CA IK AR MET S KO

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BRAX With a prestigious history in creating ready-to-wear menswear, and trousers in particular, elegant casualwear label Brax has a stellar reputation in Germany and beyond. Nowadays the brand is known for both men’s and women’s apparel and has expanded beyond the humble trouser to produce knitwear, jackets and shirts.

For spring/summer 2017 Brax offers stylish pieces with a focus on the essentials: the perfect white shirt or pastel-coloured pair of chinos for women, and the ideal khakis, distressed jeans and jungle-print shirt for men.

Brax, Pasinger Bahnhofsplatz 5, 81241 Munich, +49 (0)89 8200 0918, brax.com

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VOR Sneakers are the footwear of choice for any style connoisseur this season, and the sleek designs from Vor are a must-buy. Available in a range of lace-up designs, including hi-tops, the trainers are ruthlessly minimalist, with the simplest models having one all-over colour palette and

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understated stitching. Other chunkier styles have an 80s feel to them. Made in Germany to incredibly exacting standards, Vor footwear can be found at Oberpollinger.

Oberpollinger, Neuhauser Strasse 18, 80331 Munich, +49 (0)89 290230, vor.shoes FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 52

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HESSNATUR For spring/summer 2017 sustainable fashion label Hessnatur has based its collection around the idea of a sophisticated casual look. Cuts have a laid-back, urban feel and the flattering fabrics are made from natural materials. Simple shirts and blouses sit alongside sleek bomber jackets and summery footwear in shades of blue, muted greens and pastel pinks. Founded in 1976, Hessnatur is a champion of Slow Fashion. The brand stands for clothing that has been produced in a socially and ecologically fair way, with respect for people and the environment, but without compromising on style.

Hessnatur, Hohenzollernstrasse 10, 80801 Munich, +49 (0)89 1247 3172, hessnatur.com LOCAL TIP

The Fraunhofer inn offers classsic, seasonal Bavarian cuisine in suitably traditional surroundings.

Fraunhofer, Fraunhoferstrasse 9, 80469 Munich, +49 (0)89 266460, fraunhofertheater.de

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TOP 3...BEER GARDENS Augustiner-Keller One of Munich’s oldest beer gardens, Augustiner-Keller is considered by many to be its most beautiful. Boasting 5,000 seats surrounded by beautiful chestnut trees, it looks much as it did in 1895. Find somewhere to sit on one of the three terraces and enjoy the traditional Bavarian beer.

Augustiner-Keller, Arnulfstrasse 52, 80335 Munich, +49 (0)89 594393, augustinerkeller.de Königlicher Hirschgarten Set on the edge of the Hirschgarten park, and offering 8,000 seats, Königlicher Hirschgarten is Bavaria’s largest beer garden. The adjacent restaurant offers an array of buffet-style dishes and homemade cakes to be enjoyed alongside your chosen brew. Visitors can bring their own food for the Bavarian tradition of Brotzeit – a bread-based afternoon snack.

Königlicher Hirschgarten, Hirschgarten 1, 80639 Munich, +49 (0)89 1799 9119, hirschgarten.de

Paulaner Am Nockherberg Voted by locals as the best beer garden in the city six times, Paulaner Am Nockherberg is a charming space dotted with trees where one can relax in the shade with a refreshing tipple.

Try the Nockherberger Kellerbier, brewed just across the road from the garden, for a real taste of Munich.

Paulaner Am Nockherberg, Hochstrasse 77, 81541 Munich, +49 (0)89 459 9130, nockherberg.com

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O ES ● BÄ M K AN DI S O D EH AU S LI N R ● KE ● & K AN DI SM A IN N EN EI O N RI CH TURG AN IC LU X U N N ● RY ● N G EN TA PE TE N ● H O G AN M O D EH ● GO LF AU S M A RI O N H EI IN O ● N RI CH CH LO É ● KR IN ES BU CH H AN FR A N ZI SK A D LU TE PP IC H N G L W ER N ER ● ● G AL ER IE IR AN ● VA N LA AC M A X DI K ● ET L● TI FFAN Y & CO BO G N ER ● ● GÖ SS L UMANI TE X TI L ● ● EI LL BU CH ER ES ● ER ●

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TUMI The perfect suitcase is a new-season essential for the international jet-setter, and this Tumi 19 Degree aluminium suitcase in a stunning shade of rose gold is our pick for spring/summer 2017. The 19 Degree range, launched last autumn, is Tumi’s first collection of aluminium luggage and it makes a bold statement. Available in a range of sizes to accommodate everything from weekend breaks to month-long tours, the cases have a textured finish that gives an added touch of luxury.

Tumi, Theatinerstrasse 44, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 2554 0699, tumi.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 59

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● SWAROVSKI ● TAG HEUER ● DIE KLEINE THEATINER PARFÜMERIE ● DOUGLAS ● EYECATCHER ● FOGAL STRUMPFLADEN ● ESPRIT ● ROECKL

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NATIONALTHEATER MÜNCHEN

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SELECTED STORES IN FÜNF HÖFE: 7 For All Mankind Alessi Boggi Butlers Dolce & Gabbana Diehl Exclusiv Glenfield Hugendubel Ludwig Beck Marc O’Polo Max Mara Nile Clothing Reza René Lezard S Baumeister Schlüter Schreibmayr St Emile Tessilform

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12 HOURS IN MUNICH 10am Start your day with a leisurely breakfast at Café Katzentempel, Munich’s premier cat café, and enjoy a healthy breakfast among an array of furry, friendly felines. All the dishes are homemade and vegan, even the delicious cakes.

12pm Go shopping for desirable design pieces in some of Munich’s coolest concept stores. Weissglut offers a selection of slick homeware, jewellery, clothing and accessories by a host of young designers.

For the biggest and best fashion names, including Gucci and Valentino, a visit to Apropos is a must. For something a little different, check out the Rose Biketown store.

Cycle fanatics will find it hard to resist its custom-made creations.

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

3pm No trip to Munich would be complete without a stroll around the Englischer Garten. Seek out the Japanese teahouse where, every weekend from April to October at hourly intervals from 2pm to 5pm, you can watch a Japanese master conducting a traditional tea ceremony. Alternatively, bring a picnic and find a spot to sunbathe. Surfing fans can even board along an artificial stream in the garden thanks to a cleverly mechanised water pump that produces a standing wave.

7pm For a truly memorable meal, reserve a table at Restaurant 181. Located 181 metres up in the Olympic Tower – hence the name – this Michelin-starred revolving dining spot offers not just inspired cuisine, but also captivating 360-degree views from every seat.

Shopping Centre/Mall

Place Of Interest

S H O P | 59

GRÜNE ERDE Responsible fashion and lifestyle brand Grüne Erde has been creating eco-friendly products since 1983. Its range now encompasses clothing, furniture, home textiles, cosmetics and haircare products.

The brand’s Angana range includes Gold of Pleasure hairstyling products, perfumes, lavender facial care items and Nature Lift day and night creams. If you prefer your beauty essentials to be kind to the planet as well as your face and body, Grüne Erde is the brand for you.

Grüne Erde, Frauenstrasse 6, 80469 Munich, +49 (0)89 120 0990, grueneerde.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 56

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OPENING TIMES Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sunday & public holidays: closed

DAY TRIP INGOLSTADT VILLAGE Ingolstadt Village, located less than an hour from both Munich and Nuremberg, plays host to more than 110 luxury brand boutiques. Both German and international brands are represented, and savings of up to 60% on the former recommended retail price are available. Ingolstadt Village’s design takes inspiration from its surroundings;

Bavaria’s evocative 19th-century textile mills are reflected in its warm colour schemes and art nouveau motifs.

Ingolstadt Village, Otto-Hahn-Strasse 1, 85055 Ingolstadt, +49 (0)841 886 3100, ingolstadtvillage.com, chicoutletshopping.com

MUNICH INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

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Ingolstadt Village

INGOLSTADT MAIN STATION

HOW TO GET THERE

By Shopping Express ® The Shopping Express ® luxury coach service runs from central Munich to Ingolstadt Village daily. For further information and to book, visit chicoutletshopping.com.

By car From Munich take the A9 to junction Ingolstadt-Ost (exit 61) and from the exit follow the signs to Ingolstadt Village.

By train Ingolstadt is the main hub for trains running to Munich, Nuremberg, Augsburg, Ulm and Regensburg. There are regular connecting public coach services to Ingolstadt Village from Ingolstadt Nord and Ingolstadt stations.

Train Station

Outlet Village

Airport

By bus From Munich airport, take the Ingolstadt Airport Express to Ingolstadt Village. From Ingolstadt central station, take bus 10 to Brückenkopf, then change to line 20.

S H O P | 61

MY PERFECT DAY GINGER ROSE CLARK, SHOP’S NEWS EDITOR, DESCRIBES HER PERFECT DAY AT INGOLSTADT VILLAGE 10am German brand MCM makes superior leather travel goods, handbags and footwear for the world’s seasoned travellers, both male and female.

12pm Take a break at the cosy, colonial-style Stiftl restaurant, which serves typically Bavarian fare such as pork medallions in pepper sauce with vegetables and potato gratin.

DON’T MISS …

FIVE-STAR SERVICES The Village offers a range of VIP services including: Free Wi-Fi Free parking A personal shopper (on request) Children’s play area Electric car charging station Customer Shopping Service including free storage of luggage and purchases Tax Free Shopping from €25

• • • • • • •

SHOPPING PACKAGES Various packages are available at the Village and can be booked via the Village’s website. Services can include: Return tickets from central Munich to the Village on the Shopping Express® luxury coach A €25 Ingolstadt Village Shopping Card to be spent at the boutiques of your choice at the Village An exclusive gift Lunch with small soft drink at Stiftl restaurant at the Village

• • • •

2pm Tod’s, synonymous for its refined, understated luxury, impeccable taste and enviable quality, symbolises the best that products made in Italy can offer.

4pm Sportswear brand New Balance is a recent new arrival at the Village. Visit its boutique to discover its stylish athleticwear for men and women.

6pm Rosenthal is one of the world’s leading producers of contemporary porcelain, bone china, glass and tableware, all made to impeccably high standards.

7pm The Escada summer collection draws inspiration from exotic and romantic flowers, while an unexpected combination of prints succeeds in reimagining the brand’s aesthetic. globalblue.com

62 | G U I D E

DAY TRIP

OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-8pm Saturday: 9am-8pm

OUTLETCITY METZINGEN With more than 70 premium brands on site, Outletcity Metzingen attracts 3.5 million visitors each year, making it one of the most successful retail outlets in Europe. Visitors can enjoy discounts on

international designer labels.

Outletcity Metzingen, Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen, +49 (0)7123 925326, outletcity.com

STUTTGART

PERFECT DAY

STUTTGART CENTRAL STATION

A8

10am Start your day perusing the handbags on display at Bottega Veneta; the label is known for its intricate leather work and exceptional quality.

MUNICH

12pm Take a break at Italian eatery Olio e Pane and enjoy one of the delicious pizzas.

METZINGEN WÜRTT Outletcity Metzingen

A8

2pm The ready-to-wear collection on offer at Hugo Boss strikes the perfect balance between fashion and functionality. Follow it up with a trip to Etro to admire the brand’s unique prints.

By car Enter Reutlinger Strasse 63, 72555 Metzingen on your satellite navigation system.

Drive north-west out of Munich on the A8 towards Augsburg and Stuttgart.

Leave the A8 at the Merklingen exit, following

Train Station

Outlet Village

signs for Münsingen. Turn right on the L230, follow the road for 6km and turn left onto the B28 towards Reutlingen. Follow this street for 30km. Outletcity Metzingen is clearly signposted when you arrive in the town.

PHOTOS (BOTH): JOHANNES VOGT

HOW TO GET THERE

4pm Hour Passion produces a range of exquisite watches and jewellery items, which are perfect for adding the final touches to your new outfits.

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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE

Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

2. Claim

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Offices.

Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the final refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

Refund Office Details

Contact taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111

Munich Airport: Terminal 1, Departures, Level 4 Terminal 2, Departures, Level 4 Terminal 2, Transit, Level 5 Downtown Munich: Karstadt, Bahnhofplatz 7 Oberpollinger, Neuhauser Strasse 44 Galeria Kaufhof, Kaufingerstrasse 1-5

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TRANSLATIONS

美文翻译 34: Truly Brilliant

世界 各地 的 文化 和 理 念中汲 取灵 感。例如，北 非图 阿 雷 格人制 作 的手工 珠 宝令 他 深 受启发，他以各 类 珍 贵 的金 属制成了Afro系列 手工 护身 符、耳 环和 戒 指。他

璀 璨光 华

设 计 的作品追求历久 永恒：“直到 现 在，我 设 计 的每 一

慕尼 黑 珠 宝设 计 师 将 传 统 工 艺与当代 设 计 融 为 一 体，

的产品颇 具 美名。在与 勃 肯（ Birkenstock）合作 的 限

件 作品都还 陈列 在 我们 的展 厅里， ”他 解 释 道。

Patrik Muff经常与各大德国品牌 联 袂，合作 推出 创 造 出激 动人心的上佳 珍品。Hannah Lewis为 您娓

量 版系列中，Patrik Muff 手工 纯银 搭 扣 嵌 装 在 全 球大

娓道来

热 的 Arizona和 Gizeh凉 拖 上。令人惊 叹 的手 绘 瓷吊坠

慕尼 黑 积 蓄着丰厚 的手工 艺 历史，更 荟 萃了无数 设 计

了锦 鲤 或 珊 瑚 碎片的形 状。

则 是与 宁 芬 堡（ Nymphenburg）合作 的结晶，它采用

Patrik Muff 首饰大 胆而富 有创 意，而另一家

德国最受尊崇 的名人云 集于此，而 若 说 到 极 具个 性 的

慕尼 黑 珠 宝商 Sévigné亦 不逊 色。该品牌由 Renate

手工饰品，慕尼 黑 的珠 宝品牌更 是引领 潮 流。

Schrems和 Jonas Fink创 立于 1979年，以其 精 致 奢

Patrik Muff是 德国新 晋 珠 宝品牌 之一。品牌

华 的珠 宝设 计而 闻名。“这 些 作品是为了向品 位非

同名创 始 人 出生于 瑞 士 一 个工 匠 家庭。或许与生俱

凡、风 格高 雅 的自信 女 性 致 敬， ”在评 价自己的设 计

来，Patrik总是 对上佳 匠艺 和 奢 华 材质 抱 有 热 情。他

时，Schrems称 其“ 打 破了常 规”。的确，Sévigné并不

不 仅受 过 金 匠训 练，还 兼习绘画，最 终在 慕尼 黑安家

适合 羞涩 的人：灵 感 来自四面八 方，从动 植物到宗教偶

落户，与妻 子 Bele一 起 成 立了自己的工作 室。Patrik负

像，每 一 件大 胆 的创 作 都是在讲述一 个故事。

责 设 计 和制 作，Bele则 监管展 厅 和 打 理 品牌。这是 一

Schrems受其宗教倾向启发而设 计 的 Madonnen（“圣 母 像”）是 Sévigné最受喜爱 的系列

门家 族 生 意，也 是 一 份真正 的爱之劳作。 艺 术 格调 是 Patrik Muff 珠 宝 的一大 特 色。用 Patrik的话 说，正 是 这 些 珠 宝 的“多样 性”和“新 巴洛

之一，它几乎已成 为 该品牌 的一大标 志。“（它）以 正

克”风情，构成了工作 室“独一无二的特有 标 志”。他 从

这个系列中，传 统 圣 母主 题与现代 形 状 和 奢 华 材 料相

globalblue.com

能 量保 护 着 我们 的公司和员工， ” Schrems表 示。在

PHOTO: COURTESY HEMMERLE

师、金 匠等 创 意英 才，常 被 视为 德国的珠 宝之 都。众多

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的 黄金 镶 钻 权 戒，美不胜 收。Sévigné的所有单 品皆

中包 括 德国时装 大 牌 Marc Cain。掀 开 一 件 新买 的 Marc Cain套 衫，您 会发 现 标 签 上清 晰的“ 100% 德国

采用 顶 尖 材质，在 品牌自己的工作 室 里手工制成 。在

制 造”字 样，这 就 意 味 着 这件 新衣是 品牌 最 新 研发 的

Schrems心目中，这个品牌 脱 颖 而出的关 键 便 是它所

3D Knit & Wear系 统 之 结晶。 3D Knit & Wear与 本土化 生 产息 息 相 关，这是 因为品牌 Marc Cain在 德国已是根深 蒂固。该品牌 驻

得 益 彰 — —从 悬 垂着多彩宝石的 枝 形耳饰，到 沉甸甸

具 有 的“最高工 艺 ”。 在 慕尼 黑 的珠 宝品牌中，努力 打 破设 计局 限的 并不只有 新秀。现由第四代同名创 始 家 族 经 营 的

扎于巴登 - 符 腾 堡 州 一座名为 博 德尔斯豪 森 的小 镇，在

Hemmerle成 立于 1893年，当时 Joseph和 Anton兄弟

德国境内雇佣了近 一 千名员工，其中大 部 分就 在 公司

接 管了一家专门制 作 奖 牌 和勋 章 的金 器商。兄弟 俩为

本部 工作。因此，从营 销到 设 计再到生 产，Marc Cain

他们 的新品牌 注 入了独 特 的风 格，使 其迅 速 被鲁 伊 特

体系下 的大 部 分工作 都是在公司大楼内完 成 的。

伯 德 法 院和 巴伐 利 亚 摄 政 王子 指 定为 专 供商，从 此 跻 身德国主 流 的珠 宝商之列。

Hemmerle的家 族 成 员 绝 不 坐享 既 有 荣 誉，历经 120多年风雨，一直 放 眼 未 来。2006年，Christian 和 Yasmin Hemmerle夫 妇 开始与 Christian的父 母 Stefan和 Sylveli一 起 经 营公司。如 Christian所 言，Hemmerle“很大程 度 上是 个家族 事业”。他们四人 之 间已 经有了强烈 的共同愿景。 “我们 模 糊了 艺 术 和 设 计 的语 言，献 身 于 最高水平 的匠艺，只 为创 造 出大 胆有力的现代 珠 宝。”Christian解 释 说。

Hemmerle的团队 丝 毫不惧冒 险。Maximilianstrasse大街 的精品店中，令人 赞 叹 的 手工 艺品能 够 满足任 何品 位。从 现代 风 格 到较传 统 的 款 式，这 里 应 有尽 有。若要出席正 式 场 合，不妨点 缀一 副 璀 璨 的耳 环。白金 配 碧 玺，抑 或青 铜、白金 配钻石， 各种 珍 贵 的 材 料 交相 辉 映。一对用橄 榄、黑 檀等木 材 雕 成，以贵 金 属 和 钻石、翠 玉等灵石点 睛的手 镯，能为 任 何造 型 增 添 一 丝前卫 风情。

Hemmerle的每 件 作品都是 孤 品，证明其团队 确 实 将高级 珠 宝作为艺 术来 看待。Patrik Muff 和

Sévigné亦 不例外。正因遵 循了此 道，这 三个品牌才 得以脱 颖 而出。从 最 细 微 的创 作到最 奢 华 的装 饰，每 件珠 宝都 已投 入了相当的心思 和 时间，以及 最 关 键 的 — — 蕴含在 成 品中的爱 意。带 着 这份 爱 意，这 些 珠 宝熠熠生 辉，闪耀 着 无法 掩 藏 的光 芒。

42: A New Dimension 全 新 维度

在 德国备 受尊崇 的 时装 品牌 Marc Cain对生 产流 程 作

PHOTO: © MARC CAIN

出了大刀阔斧 的改动，所 取得 的成 效令人 瞩目、影 响 深 远。Ginger Rose Clark带 您 深入了解 通 过 衣物 标 签，我们 可以了解到它们 的原产 地 — —或 许 这 些标 签 并不起 眼，产 地 我们 也 从 未涉足，越 来 越 多的主 流品牌正在悄然 标 记它们 的全 新生 产 方 式，其

位于博 德尔斯豪 森 Marc Cain的生 产厂房窗明几 净，极目之处 尽是 一 行行排 列 整 齐 的针 织 机。一 天 24 小 时，一周 5天，这 些满 载 着羊 毛 线 轴 的复 杂 机 器 运作 不止，伴 随着来回反 复 的针 织动 作发 出阵 阵低 鸣，形 成了一 种 奇妙 的韵 律。公司总部 配备了 100多台针 织 机，其中有 92台平 型 针 织 机，8台圆形 针 织 机。 在 反 思传 统 生 产 方 法 的过 程中，这 些 机 器就 是

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3D Knit & Wear系 统 的奥 秘所在。正如品牌创 始 人、 股 东 和 主 席 Helmut Schlotterer所 说：“ IT活 动 是我 们 管 理 文化 的一大支 柱，尤 其是我们自行 开发软件。” 由于 Schlotterer不愿 外购 标准化 的 软件解 决 方 案，公 司投 入了足足 600天 的 时间培训内部 技 术人员，才 得以 贯 彻 使用 3D Knit & Wear模 型。通 过 这 些卓 绝 的努 力，Marc Cain打造 出了一 套完 美 符 合公司独 特 要求 的定制系 统。 在 某 次会 议中，创 意团队呕心 沥血 地 绘 制了一 张 草 图，它成 为了一 个模 板，指导 技 术人员为 针 织 机设 定 程 序。从设 计 的角度 上说，相 比 此前 的生 产 方 法，3D

Knit & Wear在制 作 套 衫 、羊 毛 衫乃至裙子和大衣 时 拥 有明显 的优 势。其 软件 和 硬 件让 多样 化 款 型 成 为可 能。由于 纱 线 是 从德国和 意 大 利 精 选而来，不论 是 平 纹、双罗 纹、棱 纹、绳 编 花 纹 还 是 提 花 织物，都 可以用 这 些 机 器 做 出来。

Schlotterer解 释 称，3D Knit & Wear模 型 令生 产 的流 程 改 头 换面。“传 统 的平 型 针 织 机 往 往 只能 单 独 生 产 衣 物 的某 个 部 件，比如 袖 子、领口、正面和 背 面， ”他说， “ 但 是，Marc Cain的 机 器 运用了最 新 的 模 型，只需 一台机 器 经由单一 步 骤 即 可生 产出一 件 完 整 的套 衫。”这 种 新 的 方 法意 味 着 衣 物上不 会再 有 接 缝 了，穿 起 来 也 更合身、更舒 适。此外，由于 一台机 器即 可 产出一 件 完 整 的服 饰，拼 装 的流 程 也 就 被省去了，大

63: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全 球，尊 享退 税

大 减 少了生 产 耗 时。 在 几乎过于全 球化 的当今社会，3D Knit & Wear 不失 为 一 个聪 明的高 科 技创 举，它也为社会带来诸 多

当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购 物区中的 30多万家 商店消费 时， 环 球 蓝 联 购 物 退 税 服务（Global Blue Tax Free

益 处。正如 Schlotterer简明扼 要 指出：“ Marc Cain

Shopping）为 您 节省购 物 开 销。

在 坚 定 地 逆 行业潮 流而行。我们 非 但没有寻求业务外

每 年 约有两千六百多万名旅客 享用 环 球 蓝 联（Global

包，而是 充分 利用内部资源（ insourcing），而且 把 此 个更具可 持 续 性 的发明，Schlotterer 还认 为，将大 部 分

Blue）的购 物 退 税 服务，何 不加入他们 的行列？您只需 在 购 物 时留意 环 球 蓝 联（Global Blue）的蓝 星标 志， 或 直 接 问询 商家是 否 提 供 环 球 蓝 联（Global Blue）退

生 产工作 集中在同一 个 地 点能“ 带来 生 态 上 的和 经 济

税 服务，然后 遵 循以下简单 的退 税 流 程即 可：

当作 Marc Cain的箴 言。”基 于 这一 箴 言，才产生了这

上 的 好处”。如 今，Marc Cain再也 不需 要 不同的地 点 之 间来回运 输 服 装，既省了时间，也 省了精力；与此同

1. 购 物 消费

时，现代 机 器亦 能有 效 减 少材料 的浪费。Schlotterer

无论 您 在 哪里 购 物，请向商家索要 环 球 蓝 联 退 税 表 格

认 为，在 德国国内生 产必 然能为 德国劳 动力的发 展

（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并 保存 票 据。

带来 积 极 的影 响。“ 在国内生 产 有助 于 改善就 业保 障— — 事 实上，我们已 经在计 划 创 造 新 的工作岗位， ”

2. 申领 退 税

他 解 释 道。

在 您 返 程离境前，请 前往 海 关柜台，出示 退 税 表 格和

其 实，这一 颇 具前 瞻 性 的 方 法 并不 新 奇。自 Marc

Cain于 1973年创 立 时起，创 新 就 一直 处 于品牌文化 的

相 关 票 据，获 取 海 关印章，然后再到 环 球 蓝 联 的退 税 点领 取 退 税 款。

它今 时今日的国际 影 响力。“永无 止境 的创 新 是 Marc

联 系方 式：

Cain研发 工作 的基 础， ” Schlotterer 说 道。“我 每 一

Cain的 3D Knit & Wear系 统 就 淋 漓尽致 地体 现了这

taxfree@ globalblue. com + 421 232 111 111 最 低消费 € 25即 可申请 退 税，能 够 节省高达购买 商品 价14. 5%的税。请 注 意：您 收 到 的退 税 款 是 增 值 税 减去

种 精神：从各种 意义 上 来说，它为扎 根 德国南 部 心腹 地

环 球 蓝 联 的手 续 费。如 果您 选 择 现 金 退 税，部 分机 场

带 的 Marc Cain提 供了一 种 无 缝 的经 营 模 式。

还 将以 退 税申请 表为单位收取 现 金 退 税手 续 费。

天 都 在向我们 的员工灌 输 这 种 精神；如 果 我们 不这么 做，那 就 不 可能 长久 地 坚 守 这一 个生 产 基 地。” Marc

globalblue.com

PHOTO: © MARC CAIN

核心地位，也 正 是 这 种不 断创 新 的精神引领公司赢得了

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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 34: Truly Brilliant Подлинный бриллиант Ханна Льюис рассказывает о самых интересных ювелирах Мюнхена, которые соединяют традиционное мастерство и современный дизайн – и создают невероятные украшения У Мюнхена большая история мастерового дела и множество талантливых жителей, от дизайнеров до ювелиров. Здесь появилось множество уважаемых во всей стране брендов, а если говорить об украшениях ручной работы, то мюнхенские компании окажутся безусловными лидерами. Все это дает основания называть Мюнхен ювелирной столицей Германии.

Patrik Muff – один из самых интересных молодых брендов Германии в ювелирном деле. Его основатель Патрик Муфф родился в Швейцарии в мастеровой семье и всегда испытывал тягу к ремесленничеству и качественным материалам. Он учился у мастера-ювелира, затем изучал искусство и в конце концов обосновался в Мюнхене. Здесь он открыл свою студию: сам Патрик придумывает и воплощает прекрасные украшения, а его супруга Беле управляет шоурумом и продвигает бренд. У них получилось семейное дело – истинный плод любви. Произведения Patrik Muff обладают особым артистическим флером. По словам Патрика, ювелирная «разнородность» и дух «необарокко» лежат в основе «собственного почерка» его ателье. Вдохновение приходит из культур и идей всего мира. Например, коллекция Afro создана под влиянием украшений племени туарегов Северной Африки: в нее вошли амулеты, серьги и кольца, выполненные из различных драгоценных металлов. Ювелир стремится сделать свои вещи неподвластными времени: «Любое украшение, которое я когда-либо придумал, до сих пор представлено в нашем шоуруме», – поясняет он.

Patrik Muff активно участвует в коллаборациях, чаще всего с культовыми немецкими брендами. Для ограниченной коллекции Birkenstock бренд разработал серебряные пряжки ручной работы: их можно увидеть на знаменитый сандалиях Arizona и Gizeh. Совместно с компанией Nymphenburg ювелир создал и вручную расписал чудесные фарфоровые подвески в форме декоративных рыбок и кораллов. Ювелирный бренд Patrik Muff обладает яркой и творческой харизмой. То же самое можно сказать о другой мюнхенской марке – Sévigné. Ренате Шремс и éонас Финк основали ее в 1979 году, чтобы выпускать детально проработанные и порой экстравагантные украшения. «Наши творения посвящены уверенным в себе женщинам с экстраординарным вкусом и изысканным стилем», – так Шремс определяет свои работы, называя их «нешаблонными». И действительно, украшения Sévigné – не для скромниц: источником вдохновения может послужить что угодпосле угодно: от флоры и фауны до религиозных икон, и за каждым ювелирным произведением стоит своя история. Коллекция Madonnen («Мадонны»)

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входит в число самых востребованных: она появилась в результате духовных исканий Шремс и вскоре стала символом этого бренда. «Своей позитивной энергией она оберегает нашу компанию и сотрудников», – делится ювелир. В украшениях этой серии органично соединились традиционные изображения Мадонны, современные ювелирные формы и драгоценные материалы: кончики серег-шандельеров украшены яркими драгоценными камнями, а объемные перстни из желтого золота обрамлены бриллиантами. Все эти украшения, как и другие вещи Sévigné, созданы вручную в ателье компании. Их отличает использование материалов исключительного качества и, что Шремс считает самым важным для своего бренда, «высочайший уровень мастерства». Не только молодые бренды Мюнхена преодаливают границы возможного в ювелирной дизайне. Компания Hemmerle появилась в 1893 году и сейчас находится в управлении четвертого поколения одной семьи. Основатели Джозеф и Антон Хеммерле получили во владение мастерскую, которая специализировалась на медалях и орденах. Они придали новому бренду особенный стиль – и вскоре завоевали статус Поставщика двора Луитпольда, принцарегента Баварии. Со временем это закрепило репутацию компании как одного из ведущих ювелиров Германии. Члены этой семьи никогда не желала почивать на лаврах, и все 120 лет думали о будущем. В 2006 году к управлению компанией присоединилось новое поколение, и теперь во главе стоит четыре человека: супруги Кристиан и Ясмин Хеммерле и родители Кристиана Стефан и Силвели. По словам Кристиана, Hemmerle – это «очень семейное дело», скрепленное общим для всех пониманием сущности бренда. «Мы смешиваем язык искусства и дизайна. Это дает нам возможность ориентироваться на современностью смелым дизайном и придерживаться самого высокого уровня традиционного мастерства», – объясняет Кристиан. Команда Hemmerle не боится рисковать. В бутике марки на Maximilianstrasse globalblue.com

представлены великолепные украшения ручной работы, и клиенты с самыми разными предпочтениями, от ультра-современных до традиционных, обязательно найдут чтонибудь для себя. Для официальных поводов подойдут блестящие серьги из дополняющих друг друга драгоценных материалов: например, белое золото и турмалин или бронза, белое золото и бриллианты. А объемные браслеты из оливы, эбонитового дерева и других пород, отделанные драгоценными металлами и камнями (бриллиантами, нефритами и другими), придадут модную ауру любому наряду. Каждая вещь Hemmerle – единственная в своем роде, и это еще раз доказывает, что бренд относится к украшениям как произведениям искусства. éо же самое можно сказать и о Patrik Muff и Sévigné. éакой подход подчеркивает особый статус всех трех брендов. Столько творчества, идей, времени и, что особенно важно, любви, вложено в каждое украшение, самое крошечное или самое экстравагантное, что не заметить этого сияния просто невозможно.

42: A New Dimension Новое измерение Джинджер Роуз Кларк рассказывает, как немецкий модный бренд Marc Cain кардинально поменял производственный процесс – и добился впечатляющих результатов Незаметные вшитые ярлыки, призванные поведать о происхождении одежды, порой указывают на страны, в которых мы никогда не бывали. Однако большие компании постепенно меняют подход к производству, и Marc Cain, один из крупнейших модных домов Германии, – не исключение. Распаковывая новый джемпер Marc Cain вы обнаружите ярлычок со словами «100% Made in Germany». Это означает, что ваш новый предмет гардероба – продукт новейшей технологичной системы 3D Knit & Wear.

3D Knit & Wear и локальное производство идут рука об руку. Не в последнюю очередь

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потому, что для бренда Marc Cain связь с Германией имеет особое значение. В Германии на компанию работает почти тысяча человек, и многие из них – в штабквартире, расположенной в маленьком городе Бодельсхаузене в Баден-Вюртемберге. Большая часть цикла Marc Cain осуществляет на родной земле: от маркетинга и дизайна до производства. На открытом пространстве промышленной зоны Бодельсхаузена, насколько хватает взгляда, выстроены вязальные машины. Пять дней в неделю, 24 часа в сутки, эти многосоставные механизмы, нагруженные бобинами с пряжей, жужжат в ритме бегающего челнока. В штаб-квартире установлено не менее 100 вязальных машин, из них 92 плоских и 8 круглых моделей. Эти машины и есть секретное оружие системы 3D Knit & Wear, задача которой – пересмотреть традиционные производственные методы. Основатель, владелец и председатель совета директоров компании Хельмут Шлоттерер говорит об этом так: «Опора всей нашей культуры управления – это проекты в сфере IT, особенно программное обеспечение, которые мы разрабатываем сами». Он презрительно относится к стандартизированным программным решениям, поставляемым вместе с техникой. Поэтому компания посвятила в общей сумме 600 дней обучению собственных технических специалистов, чтобы в итоге внедрить модель 3D Knit & Wear. В результате Marc Cain использует разработанную на заказ систему, которая была полностью адаптирована к уникальным требованиям компании. Наброски, сделанные во время совещания с творческим отделом, превращаются в шаблон. По нему технические специалисты по вязанию программируют вязальные машины. С дизайнерской точки зрения, система 3D Knit & Wear обладает очевидными преимуществами перед прежними методами, особенно для создания джемперов, кардиганов и даже юбок и пальто. Программа и техника способны учитывать огромное количество узоров. Плоская или рельефная вязка, косички или жаккард, – с помощью

этих машин можно воплотить любые задумки из пряжи, и при этом работать исключительно в Германии и Италии. Шлоттерер объясняет, что модель 3D Knit & Wear поменяла производственный процесс во всех аспектах: «Привычные машины для гладкой вязки, как правило, производят только отдельные части, например, рукава, воротнички, спинки или полочки. Но благодаря новейшим технологиям на фабрике Marc Cain полностью готовый пуловер производится одной машиной за один шаг». Новый метод подразумевает отсутствие швов, что делает вещь более приятной и удобной в ношении. Более того, из процесса исключен этап сборки после выхода из машины, а это сокращает временные затраты на производство в целом. Инновационный взгляд на дизайн через технологию – далеко не единственное преимущество нового подхода. 3D Knit & Wear – это умный способ управления в глобализованном, иногда даже сверх необходимого, мире. Шлоттерер нашел для этого остроумную формулу: «Marc Cain уверенно идет вразрез с индустриальным трендом. Вместо аутсорсинга наш девиз – инсорсинг». Этот девиз стал катализатором для более устойчивой модели с точки зрения экологии. Как объясняет Шлоттерер, если большая часть производства сконцентрирована в одном месте, то «это открывает экологические и экономические преимущества». Продукция не курсирует из одного место в другое, а значит, не тратятся время и энергия. Современные машины предлагают сократить и перерасход материалов. Кроме того, для Шлоттерера внутреннее производство означает и развитие трудовых ресурсов: «Внутреннее производство влияет и на гарантию занятости. По сути, создаются новые рабочие места», – объясняет он. Подобная ориентация на технологии будущего не стали чем-то неожиданным для компании бренда Marc Cain. С момента основания в 1973 году инновации остаются в основе его корпоративной культуры. Эти ценности привели компанию к всемирному присутствию, которое приносит заметные

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‫عالمة ‪ Marc Cain‬بعزمٍ الموضة السائدة في قطاع الحياكة‪.‬‬ ‫بدالً من إسناد األعمال إلى أطراف خارجيّة‪ ،‬تؤمن العالمة "بالقيام‬ ‫باألعمال داخل الشركة"‪ .‬يساعد هذا الشعار على ضمان نموذ ٍج أكثر‬ ‫استدامة ويشرح ‪ Schlotterer‬أنّه نتيجة تركيز اإلنتاج في مكانٍ‬ ‫واحد‪" ،‬تزداد المنافع البيئيّة واالقتصاديّة"‪ .‬بما أ ّن المالبس ال تُنقل‬ ‫من مكانٍ إلى آخر‪ ،‬يت ّم توفير الوقت والطاقة‪ .‬كما تسمح الماكينات‬ ‫الحديثة بتقليص النفايات الناتجة عن الحياكة‪ .‬يرى ‪Schlotterer‬‬ ‫اإلنتاج المحلّي كتط ّور إيجابي بالكامل بالنسبة إلى اليد العاملة‪.‬‬ ‫يشرح قائالً‪" :‬يساهم اإلنتاج المحلّي باألمن الوظيفي؛ والواقع أنّنا‬ ‫نفكّر بخلق فرص عمل جديدة‪".‬‬ ‫ليس هذا التفكير المستقبلي بالجديد على اإلطالق‪ .‬منذ‬ ‫تأسيس ‪ Marc Cain‬سنة ‪ ،1973‬كان لالبتكار مكاناً في ثقافتها‪،‬‬ ‫األمر الذي أكسب الشركة التواجد العالمي الذي تتمتّع به اليوم‪.‬‬ ‫يقول ‪" :Schlotterer‬االبتكار الدائم أساس البحث والتط ّور لدى‬ ‫كل يوم؛‬ ‫‪ .Marc Cain‬أحاول أن أنقل هذه الروحيّة إلى موظّفينا ّ‬ ‫وإال ال يمكننا المحافظة على قاعدة إنتاج على المدى البعيد هنا‪".‬‬ ‫تعبّر تقنيّة ‪ 3D Knit & Wear‬عن هذا المفهوم خير تعبير‪:‬‬ ‫بكل ما للكلمة من معنى‪ ،‬عمليّة إنتا ٍج سلسة من قلب ألمانيا‬ ‫توفّر ّ‬ ‫الجنوبيّة‪.‬‬ ‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 63‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة‬ ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الضريبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر المال لدى تس ّوقك في أكثر من‬ ‫‪ 300,000‬متجر في أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العالم‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ال تنض ّم إلى الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون دفع‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما عليك‬ ‫الضريبة من خالل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫إال أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو ‪Global‬‬ ‫‪ Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫أينما تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول على طلب استرداد الضريبة ّ‬ ‫بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصاالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫في طريق العودة إلى وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجمارك عند نقطة‬ ‫المغادرة لتتم المصادقة على إيصاالتك قبل قبض االسترداد من أحد‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫مكاتب االسترداد ّ‬ ‫لالتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدنى قدره ‪ €25‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14.5%‬من ثمن مشترياتك‪.‬‬

‫يشمل مبلغ االسترداد النهائي الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضريبة‬ ‫على القيمة المضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬في بعض المطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض‬ ‫رسم خدمة نقدي على كل طلب استرداد ضريبة في حال رغبت‬ ‫بالحصول على استرداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫‪результаты. «Постоянные новации – это‬‬ ‫‪основа для дальнейших изысканий и‬‬ ‫‪развития в Marc Cain, – делится Шлоттерер.‬‬ ‫‪– Каждый день я стараюсь передать это‬‬ ‫‪ощущение нашим сотрудникам. Если бы‬‬ ‫‪я этого не делал, было бы невозможно‬‬ ‫‪поддерживать производственную базу в‬‬ ‫‪долгосрочной перспективе». Система 3D‬‬ ‫‪Knit & Wear следует этой философии: она‬‬ ‫‪обеспечивает бесшовный (во всех смыслах‬‬ ‫‪этого слова) процесс в самом сердце южной‬‬ ‫‪Германии.‬‬ ‫‪63: When You Shop The World, Shop‬‬ ‫‪Tax Free‬‬ ‫‪Совершая покупки по всему миру,‬‬ ‫‪совершайте их с Tax Free‬‬ ‫‪Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят‬‬ ‫‪вам сэкономить на покупках в более чем‬‬ ‫‪300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых‬‬ ‫‪лучших шоппинг районах мира.‬‬ ‫‪Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26‬‬ ‫‪миллионам путешественников, совершающих‬‬ ‫?‪покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год‬‬ ‫‪Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите‬‬ ‫‪о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным‬‬ ‫‪инструкциям.‬‬ ‫‪1. В магазине‬‬ ‫‪Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите‬‬ ‫‪Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки.‬‬ ‫‪2. При выезде‬‬ ‫‪Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления,‬‬ ‫‪пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить‬‬ ‫‪ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из‬‬ ‫‪наших офисов.‬‬ ‫‪Контакты:‬‬ ‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫‪Потратьте минимум €25 и сэкономьте до‬‬ ‫‪14.5% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста,‬‬ ‫‪примите к сведению, что конечная сумма‬‬ ‫‪возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус‬‬ ‫‪административная комиссия. В некоторых‬‬ ‫‪аэропортах при возврате наличными‬‬ ‫‪взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

‫‪71‬‬

‫يختص بالميداليّات واألوسمة‪ .‬اعتمدا‬ ‫‪ Anton‬محالً لصياغة الذهب ّ‬ ‫أسلوباً فريدا ً من نوعه ساهم في تعيين العالمة المز ّود األساسي‬ ‫الوصي على العرش‪ ،‬فاستحالت‬ ‫لبالط ‪ ،Luitpold‬أمير ‪Bavaria‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫إحدى أبرز عالمات صياغة المجوهرات في ألمانيا‪ .‬وما زالت اليوم‬ ‫بإدارة الجيل الرابع من األسرة‪.‬‬ ‫لكن لم ِ‬ ‫يكتف أفراد العائلة بهذا القدر من النجاح‪ ،‬بل فكّروا‬ ‫بالمستقبل على مدار ‪ 120‬سنة‪ .‬وفي العام ‪ ،2006‬تولّى الزوجان‬ ‫‪ Christian‬و‪ Yasmin Hemmerle‬إدارة الشركة إلى جانب‬ ‫والدي الزوج ‪ Stefan‬و‪ .Sylveli‬على ح ّد قول ‪Christian:‬‬ ‫‪ "Hemmerle‬عمل أُسري بامتياز" ويتشارك هؤالء األربعة‬ ‫رؤية واضحة‪ .‬يضيف قائالً‪" :‬نُترجم لغة الف ّن والتصميم من خالل‬ ‫مجوهرات حديثة وجريئة‪ ،‬تتميّز عن غيرها بالتزامنا أعلى مستويات‬ ‫الحرفيّة"‪.‬‬ ‫ال يخشى فريق عمل ‪ Hemmerle‬بخوض المخاطر‪ .‬يجد‬ ‫ز ّوار المتجر في شارع ‪ Maximilianstrasse‬قطعاً خالبة‬ ‫مشغولة يدويّاً لتناسب كافّة األذواق‪ ،‬من العصريّة إلى األكثر‬ ‫تقليديّة‪ .‬للمناسبات الرسميّة‪ ،‬القِ نظرة على أقراط األذن المتأللئة‬ ‫المصنوعة من مواد مك ّملة فاخرة كالذهب األبيض والتورمالين أو‬ ‫البرونز والذهب األبيض والماس‪ .‬تجدر اإلشارة أيضاً إلى األساور‬ ‫والمرصعة‬ ‫السميكة المصنوعة من خشب الزيتون أو االبنوس‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بمعادن وأحجار كريمة كالماس أو اليشب لتضفي لمسة عصريّة إلى‬ ‫زي كان‪.‬‬ ‫أي ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كل قطع ‪ Hemmerle‬بالفرادة إذ يرى فريق العمل‬ ‫تتمتّع ّ‬ ‫المجوهرات الفاخرة كف ِّن بح ّد ذاته‪ .‬األمر سيّان بالنسبة إلى‬ ‫‪ Patrik Muff‬و‪Sévigné‬؛ وبفضل هذه المقاربة‪ ،‬تتميّز هذه‬ ‫العالمات الثالث عن غيرها‪ .‬فمن أصغر ابتكار إلى أكثره روعةً‪ ،‬تجد‬ ‫كل قطعة مجوهرات‬ ‫والحب منصهرة في ّ‬ ‫حفنة من األفكار والوقت‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وبارزة من خالل لمعة في المنتج النهائي‪.‬‬ ‫‪A New Dimension :42‬‬

‫بع ٌد جديد‬

‫صفوفاً من ماكينات الحياكة على م ّد ال ّنظر‪ .‬وعلى مدار ‪ 24‬ساعة‪،‬‬ ‫ولخمسة أيّام في األسبوع‪ ،‬تسمع صوت آالت متقدّمة مح ّملة‬ ‫يقل‬ ‫ببكرات من الصوف تعمل بال توقّف‪ .‬يحوي المق ّر الرئيسي ما ال ّ‬ ‫عن ‪ 100‬آلة حياكة‪ 92 ،‬منها مسطّحة و‪ 8‬دائريّة‪.‬‬ ‫في إطار إعادة النظر بطرق اإلنتاج التقليديّة‪ ،‬تشكّل هذه‬ ‫المؤسس والمالك‬ ‫الماكينات س ّر تقنيّة ‪ .3D Kint & Wear‬يقول ّ‬ ‫والرئيس ‪" :Helmut Schlotterer‬نشاطاتنا في مجال تكنولوجيا‬ ‫وبخاصة البرمجيّات التي‬ ‫المعلومات هي إحدى دعائم ثقافة إدارتنا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫نط ّورها بأنفسنا‪ ".‬ونظرا ً لميله إلى برمجيّات مص ّممة بحسب الطلب‪،‬‬ ‫خصصت الشركة ‪ 600‬يوم لتدريب فنييّها على تنفيذ نموذج ‪3D‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫خصيصاً لمعايير‬ ‫‪ .Knit & Wear‬فكانت النتيجة نظاماً مص ّمماً ّ‬ ‫‪ Marc Cain‬الفريدة‪.‬‬ ‫يُع ّد الفريق االبتكاري مخطّطاً يستخدمه الخبير الف ّني كنموذج‬ ‫لبرمجة ماكينة الحياكة‪ .‬من وجهة نظر تصميميّة‪ ،‬ال ّ‬ ‫شك أ ّن نظام‬ ‫‪ 3D Knit & Wear‬يتمتّع بإيجابيّات كثيرة مقارن ًة بطرق اإلنتاج‬ ‫وبخاصة عند صناعة الكنزات أو حتّى التنانير والمعاطف‪.‬‬ ‫السابقة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تسمح البرمجيّات واآلالت بتنفيذ مجموعة واسعة من النقوش‪ .‬يمكن‬ ‫هذه اآلالت حياكة مالبس ناعمة الملمس أو مضلّعة أو مجدولة أو‬ ‫متشابكة‪ ،‬مصنوعة من خيوط مبتكرة مستوردة حصريّاً من ألمانيا‬ ‫وإيطاليا‪.‬‬ ‫يشرح ‪ Schotterer‬أ ّن نموذج ‪ 3D Knit & Wear‬قد‬ ‫قلب عمليّة اإلنتاج رأساً على عقب‪ .‬يقول‪" :‬تنتج ماكينات الحياكة‬ ‫المسطّحة التقليديّة عناصر فرديّة باإلجمال‪ ،‬مثل األكمام والياقات‬ ‫واألجزاء األماميّة والخلفيّة من المالبس‪ .‬لكن من خالل أحدث نماذج‬ ‫ماكينات ‪ ،Marc Cain‬يمكن حياكة كنزة بالكامل بواسطة ماكينة‬ ‫واحدة ومرحلة واحدة‪ ".‬تتميّز هذه الطريقة بغياب الدرزات وتوفّر‬ ‫الراحة والقياسات الدقيقة‪ .‬باإلضافة إلى ذلك‪ ،‬بما أ ّن ماكينة واحدة‬ ‫أقل‪.‬‬ ‫تنفّذ القطعة‪ ،‬ما من مرحلة تجميع وبالتالي وقت اإلنتاج ّ‬ ‫ناهيك عن كونها مقاربة جديدة إلى التصميم من خالل‬ ‫التكنولوجيا‪ ،‬فوائد هذه المقاربة كثيرة وتشكّل طريقة ذك ّية للعمل‬ ‫في عالم كثير العولمة أحياناً‪ .‬على ح ّد تعبير ‪" :Schlotterer‬تقاوم‬

‫المختصة باألزياء ‪ Marc Cain‬بإحداثها‬ ‫تفتخر العالمة األلمانيّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ثورة في عمليّة إنتاجها والنتائج باهرة وواسعة النطاق‪ .‬تحقيق‬

‫‪Ginger Rose Clark‬‬

‫‪PHOTO: © MARC CAIN‬‬

‫غالباً ما ال نالحظ إسم العالمة ال ُمحاك داخل مالبسنا مشيرا ً إلى بالد‬ ‫ربّما لم نطأها من قبل‪.‬إال أ ّن العالمات الرائدة تغيّر هذه المقاربة‬ ‫يوماً بعد يوم ومنها أحد أبرز دور األزياء في ألمانيا‪ .‬عندما تفتح كنزة‬ ‫جديدة اشتريتها حديثاً من ‪ ،Marc Cain‬تالحظ ملصقاً كُتب عليه‬ ‫"صنع في ألمانيا ‪ ."100%‬هذا يعني أ ّن كنزتك الجديدة من إنتاج‬ ‫أحدث نظام ابتكاري لدى العالمة ‪.3D Knit & Wear ،‬‬ ‫تعتمد تقنيّة ‪ 3D Knit & Wear‬على اإلنتاج المحلّي تماماً‬ ‫تمسك عالمة ‪ Marc Cain‬بجذورها األلمانيّة‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫وبخاصة نتيجة ّ‬ ‫تقع في بلدة ‪ Bodelshausen‬الصغيرة في مقاطعة ‪Baden-‬‬ ‫‪ Württemberg‬ولديها حوالي ألف موظّف في ألمانيا‪ ،‬معظمهم‬ ‫يعملون في المق ّر الرئيسي‪ .‬لذلك‪ ،‬يُنجز الجزء األكبر من مهام‬ ‫‪ Marc Cain‬في مق ّر عملها‪ ،‬من التسويق إلى التصميم فاإلنتاج‪.‬‬ ‫تجد في موقع اإلنتاج المفتوح النظيف في ‪Bodelshausen‬‬

‫‪72‬‬

‫ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية‬ ‫‪Truly Brilliant :34‬‬

‫حق‬ ‫باهر عن ّ‬

‫يدمج أكثر مص ّممي المجوهرات إثار ًة في ميونخ الحرفيّة التقليديّة‬

‫بالتصاميم العصريّة البتكار قطعٍ جديرة بالتقدير‪ ،‬تقرير ‪Hannah‬‬ ‫‪Lewis‬‬

‫‪PHOTOS: ( FROM TOP) © FRANK STOLLE; COURTESY HEMMERLE‬‬

‫بفضل تاري ٍخ عريق من الحرفيّة ٍ‬ ‫وفيض من المبتكرين الموهوبين‪،‬‬ ‫مص ّممين وصائغين على ح ّد سواء‪ ،‬غالباً ما تُعتبر ميونخ عاصمة‬ ‫المجوهرات في ألمانيا‪ .‬تحتضن المدينة بعض ألمع األسماء في‬ ‫وتحتل عالمات المجوهرات فيها الصدارة في مجال القطع‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫البالد‬ ‫الفريدة من نوعها المصنوعة يدويّاً‪.‬‬ ‫‪ Patrik Muff‬هي إحدى أبرز العالمات التجاريّة اليافعة‬ ‫مؤسسها الذي تحمل إسمه‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫المختصة بالمجوهرات في ألمانيا‪ُ .‬ولد ّ‬ ‫في سويسرا في كنف عائلة من الحرفيين وربّما كان من الطبيعي أن‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫للصنعة الماهرة والمواد الفاخرة‪ .‬تعلّم‬ ‫يشعر‬ ‫بشغف حقيقي دائم ُ‬ ‫صياغة الذهب ودرس الفنون‪ ،‬فوجد ُمرادَه في ميونخ حيث ّأسس‬ ‫مشغله بالتعاون مع زوجته ‪ .Bele‬يتولّى ‪ Patrik‬التصميم ويبتكر‬ ‫القطع المميّزة‪ ،‬في حين تُشرف ‪ Bele‬على صالة العرض وصورة‬ ‫مؤسسة عائليّة حيث يُعجن العمل بال ُح ّب‪.‬‬ ‫العالمة‪ .‬إنّها ّ‬ ‫تتميّز مجوهرات ‪ Patrik Muff‬باللّمسات الفنيّة‪ .‬على‬ ‫الخاصة" نتيجة‬ ‫ح ّد قول ‪ ،Patrik‬يحظى المشغل بـ "هويّته ّ‬ ‫"تن ّوع" مجوهراته واللّمسات "الباروكيّة الجديدة" الفريدة من‬

‫نوعها‪ .‬يشتهر باالستلهام من ثقافات وأفكار من حول العالم‪ .‬على‬ ‫سبيل المثال‪ ،‬استوحيت مجموعة ‪ Afro‬من مجوهرات شعب‬ ‫‪ Tuareg‬المشغولة يدويّاً في شمال إفريقيا وتشمل تمائم وأقراط‬ ‫أذن وخواتم مصنوعة يدويّاً من مروح ٍة من المعادن الثمينة‪ .‬تجدر‬ ‫كل‬ ‫اإلشارة إلى أنّها قطع مص ّممة كي ال تفنى‪ .‬يشرح قائالً‪" :‬ما زالت ّ‬ ‫قطعة ص ّممتها موجودة في صالة عرضنا"‪.‬‬ ‫تشتهر عالمة ‪ Patrik Muff‬كذلك بتعاونها مع عالمات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تجارية ألمانيّة بارزة‪ .‬تشمل مجموعة محدودة الكميّة أُنجزت‬ ‫بالتعاون مع ‪ ،Birkenstock‬أبازيم ‪ Patrik Muff‬مشغولة‬ ‫يدويّاً من الفضّ ة الخالصة على أشهر صنادل العالمة ‪ Arizona‬و‬ ‫‪ .Gizeh‬أ ّما تعاونها مع عالمة ‪ ،Nymphenburg‬فنتجت عنه‬ ‫حلي خزفيّة رائعة مطليّة يدويّاً‪ ،‬على شكل سمكة ‪ koi carp‬أو‬ ‫فتات من المرجان‪.‬‬ ‫مجوهرات ‪ Patrik Muff‬جريئة ومبتكرة واألمر سيّان‬ ‫بالنسبة إلى مجوهرات ‪ Sévigné‬المتّخذة من ميونخ مق ّرا ً لها‬ ‫أيضاً‪ّ .‬أسس العالمة ‪ Renate Schrems‬و‪ Jonas Fink‬سنة‬ ‫‪ 1979‬وتشتهر بتصاميمها الخالقة والفاخرة في أغلب األحيان‪.‬‬ ‫تقول ‪ Schrems‬عن تصاميمها‪" :‬إنّها مص ّممة للمرأة الواثقة‬ ‫بنفسها والمتمتّعة بذوقٍ ٍ‬ ‫فريد من نوعه وبأسلوب متكلّف" وتصف‬ ‫تصاميمها بـ "غير التقليديّة"‪ .‬والواقع أ ّن قطع ‪ Sévigné‬غير‬ ‫مص ّممة للخجوالت‪ ،‬فهي مستوحاة من أمور متعدّدة‪ ،‬من الحيوان‬ ‫قص ًة في‬ ‫والنبات والرموز الدينيّة بحيث تروي االبتكارات الجريئة ّ‬ ‫كل م ّرة‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫األحب إلى القلوب مجموعة‬ ‫من مجموعات ‪Sévigné‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪"( Madonnen‬العذارى") المستوحاة من ميول ‪Schrem‬‬ ‫الروحيّة وقد أضحت رمزا ً للعالمة تقريباً‪ .‬تقول في هذا الصدد‪" :‬إنّها‬ ‫بأسلوب‬ ‫تحمي شركتنا وموظّفينا بطاقتها اإليجابيّة"‪ .‬تضع المجموعة‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫جميل رمز العذراء التقليدي جنباً إلى جنب أشكال حديثة وموا ٍد‬ ‫فاخرة‪ ،‬من أقراط أذن متدلّية تحمل أحجارا ً مل ّونة كريمة إلى خواتم‬ ‫مرصعة بالماس‪.‬‬ ‫تتوسطها عملة من الذهب األصفر وأطرافها ّ‬ ‫ضخمة ّ‬ ‫كل هذه االبتكارات يدويّاً‬ ‫على غرار كافّة قطع ‪ ،Sévigné‬تُصنع ّ‬ ‫في مشغل العالمة باستخدام أفضل المواد وتعتقد ‪ Schrems‬أ ّن‬ ‫ما يميّز العالمة عن غيرها هو "أعلى مستويات الحرفيّة"‪.‬‬ ‫غير أ ّن الفضل في توسيع حدود قطاع تصميم المجوهرات‬ ‫تأسست عالمة‬ ‫في ميونخ ال يعود إلى العالمات الحديثة فحسب‪ّ .‬‬ ‫‪ Hemmerle‬سنة ‪ 1893‬عندما اشترى األخوان ‪ Joseph‬و‬

‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

FRINGE BENEFITS This season Antonia Zander continues her love affair with fringing, creating fun pieces that are perfect for warmer days. The stylish Triangolo Double Rayon wrap – made from light, supersoft cashmere – features a monochrome palette and ombré fringing,

ideal for adding drama to any look without being over the top. The eponymous label, founded by Zander’s mother in 1980, originally specialised in cashmere, and is still known for its boho-chic knitwear.

All its pieces are produced in collaboration with Italian family manufacturers, and its designs are celebrated for

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 63

reinterpreting traditional ethnic patterns in a modern, quirky way using materials of the highest quality. fm Antonia Zander Triangolo Double Rayon wrap, €865, Lodenfrey, Maffeistrasse 7, 80333 Munich, +49 (0)89 210390, antoniazander.de FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 59

PHOTO: MIU RECK PHOTOGRAPHY

SOUVEN I R

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GANT STORES MÜNCHEN FLAGSHIP STORE HOFSTATT – SENDLINGER STRASSE 10 AIRPORT MÜNCHEN TERMINAL 2 EBENE 4 AIRSIDE

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