NETHERLANDS | 荷兰 | НИДЕРЛАНДЫ | BELANDA
NETHERLANDS Country Edition Spring/Summer 2019
EXPLORE THE NETHERLANDS: our essential guide to the best luxury shopping in this friendly, welcoming country TWENTY-FIRST CENTURY COUTURE: the Dutch brands that are shaking up bespoke fashion
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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Barcelona Belgium Copenhagen Germany
أملانيا 德国 Германия Helsinki Area Istanbul Italy Lebanon London
We can help you discover the very best of this welcoming country, known for its avant-garde design ethos. Don’t miss our feature on the Dutch brands reinventing couture for the 21st century (page 22), alongside the latest news on the top luxury shopping opportunities in the Netherlands, and much more. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 16% when shopping in the Netherlands. We publish guides to the most prestigious destinations across the globe. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in the Netherlands. For the very latest information, scan the QR code on this page to head straight to our website, globalblue.com, and find everything you need to navigate the best shopping destinations on earth. For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the SHOP TAX FREE app – calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.
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Welcome to the Netherlands
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HUGO BOSS BENELUX B.V. PHONE +31 20 2454100 BOSS.COM
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CONTRIBUTORS
LUCINDA TURNER Lucinda Turner, SHOP’s fashion editor, studied linguistics at Queen Mary University of London before pursuing a career in publishing. Since graduating she has worked in the fashion departments of several titles, including Tatler, Condé Nast Brides and Marie Claire. globalblue.com
MÓNICA R GOYA Journalist and photographer Mónica R Goya is SHOP’s assistant picture editor. When she is not at work she is involved in supporting the principles of food justice. She loves to go hiking and to share a meal and conversation with family and friends.
ILLUSTRATION: MUTI - FOLIO ART
MUTI Creative studio Muti devised this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Netherlands. The flair of its designers shines through in this simple yet striking image of cyclists passing through fields of colourful tulips. Muti’s inventive artwork has previously been commissioned by Google, Uniqlo and Nike, among others. Discover SHOP Netherlands and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.
ASHLEY GRAHAM #ROCKYOURCONFIDENCE @ MARINARINALDI.COM
AMSTERDAM P.C.HOOFTSTRAAT 115 TEL- +31 020 679 8113 DEN HAAG NOORDEINDE 62 F TEL. +31 070 3624361
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SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L
PUBLISHING
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Contributor Ruairidh Pritchard Cover illustrator Muti - Folio Art Production editor Katie Muxworthy Fashion editor Lucinda Turner Deputy fashion editor Fani Mari News editor Ginger Rose Clark Associate fashion and lifestyle editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Jo Walker Assistant picture editor Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Chris Bechtsudis Senior designer Aaron Carline Midweight designer Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Associate online editor Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese production editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Assistant Chinese online editors Ye Ye, Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Gary Ramazanov Russian communications assistant Elizaveta Kolesnikova Russian translator Teena Garnik Translation services Language Connect Print Dane Consultancy Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designers Peter Darkin, Joanna Orchard Midweight designer Kiranjeet Kaur Junior designer Tatjiana Antoniou
G LO B A L B L U E NETHERLANDS Managing director Benelux Jorn Hoogesteijn Sales manager Kim Joostens Sales and marketing support Regina de Neve, Maik Keijzer, Amanda te Brake Key account manager and marketing Irene Schermer Key account manager Peter Belang Head of sales support and account manager telesales Samuel Sonius Account managers Astrid Maes, Karish Resodikromo, Margot Stam Global Blue Holland BV, Arlandaweg 92, 1043 EX Amsterdam, The Netherlands, +31 (0)88 806 0800
Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production coordinator Inga Abramian Studio production assistants Chris Bigg, Joanna Dodge Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital data strategist Dian Liu Digital analyst intern Yunrong Kang Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Web developer Mohammed Hakiki Digital production assistant Linda Hau
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2019 Global Blue
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CONTENTS 22
FEATURE TWENTY-FIRST CENTURY COUTURE 22 Dutch brands are ripping up the rule book when it comes to classic haute couture – and captivating a youthful new audience, as Lucinda Turner discovers
NETHERLANDS GUIDE 33
CHECK OUT 12
HOW TO SHOP TAX FREE 48
SHOP selects a standout piece from Amsterdam this season
The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
PRODUCTS 13 Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
TRANSLATIONS 50 中文 翻 译 52 Русский Перевод 55 Terjemahan Bahasa XX Indonesia
SHOP WINDOW 16
SOUVENIR 58
Don’t miss Tommy Hilfiger’s refurbished Amsterdam flagship
The essential item to bring home
NEWS 18
58
Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products Above (from top): designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren of Viktor & Rolf; Amsterdam-themed tea light holders make a charming souvenir
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) HANNELORE VANDENBUSSCHE
Maps and guides to the top shops and destinations in the Netherlands
WWW.CLAUDIASTRATER.COM
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ANNA DRIJVER
CHECK OUT
FORM AND FUNCTION After working as a lawyer for many years, Amsterdam-based Loes Vrij decided to take a leap of faith and pursue her passion for design at a professional level. In 2012 she founded her eponymous handbag label and seven years later the Loes Vrij brand is stocked in some of the most celebrated multibrand stores in the world. The designs mix sleek, contemporary minimalism Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 48
with day-to-day practicality. The Diavolino Tonda has clean lines and a classic aesthetic, and both a crossbody strap and a short handle for ultimate versatility. Each piece has been designed for a strong, modern woman with just a touch of rebel spirit – very much like Vrij herself. lt Loes Vrij Diavolino Tonda bag, ₏695, Paul Warmer, Leidsestraat 41, 1017 NV Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 427 8011, loesvrij.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 43
P R O D U C T S | 13
URBAN TRAVELLER Mix tones of brown, chunky trainers and a practical rucksack for an outdoor look that’s perfect for the city
Boss jacket, €995, Boss, PC Hooftstraat 118-120, 1071 CD Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 471 5835, hugoboss.com
Oris watch, €1,900, Oris, Rokin 48, 1012 KV Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 625 7656, oris.ch
PHOTOS: (BAG) BALLY; (WATCH) ORIS SA
Bally rucksack, €1,195, Bally, PC Hooftstraat 64, 1071 CA Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 675 4171, bally.com
Prada trainers, €640, Prada, PC Hooftstraat 63, 1071 BN Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 493 0510, prada.com
globalblue.com
Scotch & Soda trousers, €99.95, Hudson’s Bay, Grote Marktstraat 48-50, 2511 BJ The Hague, 0800 0801 (within the Netherlands), scotch-soda.com
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THINK PINK Opt for a top-to-toe tonal look and fresh white accessories to make a sartorial statement this spring
Tod’s sunglasses, €280, Tod’s, PC Hoofstraat 74, 1071 CB Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 675 7143, tods.com
Rolex watch, €5,700, Gassan, Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173-175, 1011 LN Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 622 5333, rolex.com
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 48
Louis Vuitton bag, €3,600, Louis Vuitton, PC Hooftstraat 65-67, 1071 BP Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 575 5775, louisvuitton.com
PHOTOS: (WATCH) ROLEX; (JACKET) FRED FURGOL
Sandro jacket, €295, Sandro at De Bijenkorf, Wagenstraat 32, 2512 AX The Hague, +31 (0)6 5261 3909, sandro-paris.com
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Claudia Sträter belt, €39.95, Claudia Sträter, Korte Lijnbaan 25, 3012 EC Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 412 0842, claudiastrater.com
PHOTOS: (SHOES) RICHARD VALENCIA; (BELT) STYLESHOOTS; (TROUSERS) FRED FURGOL
Longchamp T-shirt, €290, Longchamp, PC Hoofstraat 69, 1071 CB Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 686 1374, longchamp.com
Swarovski bracelet, €79, Swarovski, Poolsterstraat 94B, 3067 LX Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 209 9822, swarovski.com
Jimmy Choo shoes, €795, Jimmy Choo, PC Hooftstraat 62, 1071 CA Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 379 5039, jimmychoo.com
globalblue.com
Sandro trousers, €185, Sandro at De Bijenkorf, Wagenstraat 32, 2512 AX The Hague, +31 (0)6 5261 3909, sandro-paris.com
TOMMY MOVES BACK IN Discover Tommy Hilfiger’s new global retail concept at the recently reopened Amsterdam store. The customer experience was the main focus for the boutique’s new look and feel, so there are plenty of digitally enhanced features. The Digital Endless Aisle, for example, allows visitors to tap into the brand’s entire online range, while Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 48
still enjoying the Tommy store experience in real time. Other highlights include a café and a customisation station where you can personalise your purchases. Merging digital and traditional elements, the Amsterdam branch is the perfect place to embrace this of-the-moment brand. grc Tommy Hilfiger, PC Hooftstraat 101-103, 1071 BR Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 675 6750, tommy.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 42
PHOTO: MIGUEL JIMENEZ
SHOP WINDOW
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BOTTER FOR PETIT BATEAU For the sixth year running, Petit Bateau teamed up with the prestigious Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Fashion Accessories, to offer the winner of the Première Vision Jury Grand Prize the opportunity to collaborate on a capsule collection. This year the Dutch duo behind Botter, the winning label, took on the challenge of creating ready-to-wear for the French brand: taking inspiration from the sea, they have created vibrant designs for men and women. grc Petit Bateau, Van Baerlestraat 19, 1071 AN Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 670 9873, petit-bateau.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 39
PHOTO: ALEXANDRE GUIRKINGER
SHADES OF BLUE
Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 48
For spring/summer 2019, G-Star Raw continues its mission to be as sustainable as possible. The collections for men and women have a strong focus on denim and include contemporary updates on classic pieces, denim made using a water-saving minimaldip dyeing process and 100% organic cotton T-shirts. grc G-Star Raw, Rokin 112, 1012 LB Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 303 0203, g-star.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 37
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PERFECT PAIRING Sicilian designer Fausto Puglisi has worked with Marina Rinaldi for a second consecutive season; the Marina Rinaldi by Fausto Puglisi spring/summer 2019 capsule collection consists of 16 pieces spanning outerwear, dresses, tops and skirts, with the new addition of trousers. Plenty of vibrant colours are used throughout and Puglisi has also designed an original print for the collection. Marina Rinaldi’s ambassador, acclaimed model Ashley Graham, is the face of this elegant capsule range. grc Marina Rinaldi, Noordeinde 62F, 2514 GK The Hague, +31 (0)70 362 4361, marinarinaldi.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 45
A FINE SIGHT
PHOTO: G-STAR RAW/OLYA OLEINIC
Ace & Tate recently celebrated its fifth anniversary and continues to go from strength to strength. For spring/summer 2019, the Dutch eyewear brand introduces eleven new frames and six new colourways. Highlights also include the first rimless Ace & Tate frames, the Vince and the Elliot (pictured), available with pink and blue tinted lenses. grc Ace & Tate, Pannekoekstraat 8, 3011 LE Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 307 2440, aceandtate.com globalblue.com
Once the preserve of the upper classes and women whose closets bulged with vintage Chanel suits, couture is rapidly finding a new audience. Millennials are fast becoming not only the biggest buyers of luxury goods, but also 50
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prime purchasers of couture, so labels are having to adapt to gain a piece of the pie. Paris, the undisputed centre of couture, is still home to the majority of houses – however, take a look at the schedules for the city’s biannual 52 / Lihat halaman 55 untuk terjemahan artikel ini
PHOTO: MARIJKE AERDEN
TWENTY-FIRST CENTURY COUTURE
Dutch brands are ripping up the rule book when it comes to classic haute couture – and captivating a youthful new audience, as Lucinda Turner discovers
Haute Couture Fashion Week, and three of the prestigious brands showing are Dutch. While the Netherlands have long been known for avant-garde fashion, these three houses have broken into one of the most exclusive fashion circles in the Above: RVDK x Filling Pieces footwear collaboration
world – and are addressing the question of how to bring couture to that key Millennial market. One of the earliest pioneers of Dutch couture is Viktor & Rolf. Founded in 1993 by art school friends Viktor Horsting and Rolf
24 | F E AT U R E
Snoeren, the brand has been reinventing itself and pushing boundaries for almost 30 years. After producing strictly haute couture collections until 2000, Horsting and Snoeren then decided to explore the ready-to-wear market for a further decade, before returning to couture in 2014. By then, the Viktor & Rolf business had come a long way from
PHOTO: (LEFT) MARIJKE AERDEN
its roots. In 2005, the brand’s first fragrance, Flowerbomb, now available in various incarnations, transformed Viktor & Rolf from an unattainable couture brand into a household name. Subsequent years saw the launch of the masculine Spicebomb and another female fragrance, BonBon. It seems that such diversification and awareness are key for attracting the modern couture customer. Alongside the fragrances, 2014 marked the first Viktor & Rolf jewellery collaboration with Atelier Swarovski, 2018 saw an exhibition at the Kunsthal Museum in Rotterdam celebrating 25 years of the brand and in 2016 Viktor & Rolf Mariage brought the label to a new audience of brides-to-be. The Mariage line takes the shapes and styles of the brand’s haute
Above (clockwise from left): Viktor & Rolf Soir haute couture collection; the brand’s designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren; the label’s Flowerbomb perfume
S H O P | 25
couture and translates them into bridal gowns; as a wedding dress is generally the most expensive dress a woman will purchase in her life, the link to couture is clear. The Mariage line has proved a huge success, so much so that for 2019, Justin Alexander, the Rotterdam-based bridalwear and occasionwear company with which Mariage is co-produced, has collaborated with
Dutch fashion houses are paving the way for a new era of haute couture
PHOTO: MARIJKE AERDEN
Viktor & Rolf on a second line, Soir – elegant eveningwear similarly inspired by the couture designs. Starting prices of around €3,000 are entry level by Viktor & Rolf standards. The dresses are colourful, embellished and, above all, modern, clearly aimed at a youthful, Millennial customer looking for a gateway into the Viktor & Rolf world. Dutch couturier Iris van Herpen addresses awareness by collaborating on luxury projects whose links to fashion are subtle. In 2014 the designer, who is known for her daring, sculptural creations, teamed up with Dom Pérignon on Metamorphosis, a project launched at New York Fashion Week. Customers were invited to purchase specially designed bottles of champagne alongside limitededition works of art by van Herpen. The event and collaboration turned each piece into a collector’s item, much like a one-off piece of couture. While champagne and couture may go hand in hand, van Herpen’s latest partnership is slightly further removed. In 2018, she worked with Australian beauty brand Aesop on the Atlas of Attraction project. Above: Viktor & Rolf Soir haute couture collection
The Dutch couturier designed intricately sculptural packaging, reminiscent of her couture pieces, for four limited-edition beauty kits, as well as window installations for Aesop stores. The eye-catching designs allow the Aesop customer a piece of the Iris van Herpen aesthetic; Aesop is the go-to luxury skincare brand of the Instagram generation, and the joint project thus introduces Millennials to a couture brand they may not previously have known. Ronald van der Kemp is another Dutch master of the art of collaboration. For spring/summer 2019 van der Kemp, whose demi-couture brand counts Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid as fans, has collaborated with Amsterdam-based trainer brand Filling Pieces. The contemporary footwear company, which boasts almost half a million Instagram followers, bridges the gap between high fashion and streetwear, a market in which the modern couture customer is well versed, and one that van der Kemp is keen to be part of. Founded in 2014, the RVDK brand focuses on sustainability – a key issue for Millennials. ‘We are paving the way forward for couture Above (from top): packaging by Iris van Herpen for Aesop; the designer’s Syntopia couture collection
PHOTO: (TOP) DANIEL HERRMANN-ZOLL
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C & A AMS TERDA M
Fashion for women, men and kids
C&A Amsterdam, Damrak 70. Open 7 days a week. More than 100 stores in the Netherlands. c-a.com
with our ethical approach. I believe this generation will look for responsible and exciting alternatives,’ says van der Kemp. ‘Couture should be about beautiful, exhilarating, well-made clothes, not about big show productions. I hope that Millennials will recognise this!’ Created from existing high-end materials and leftover fabrics, RVDK garments are bright, voluminous, and also wearable. A couture house for the new generation, perhaps? After 25 years working with international brands such as Michael Kors and Celine, van der Kemp Above: RVDK x Filling Pieces footwear collaboration
decided to return to his native country to begin his eponymous line. ‘Holland for me is a good place to concentrate on my own work without being distracted by the demands and pressure of the international fashion world,’ he says. Maybe that’s the secret. This country allows room for creativity to flourish and for the boundaries of traditional couture to be pushed. Through innovative collaborations, new working practices, and simply expanding their offerings in exciting different directions, it seems that Dutch houses are paving the way for a new era of haute couture
PHOTO: MARIJKE AERDEN
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true beauty
COMES FROM WITHIN.
Douglas is one of the leading retailers in the European beauty Industry. Douglas has a complete range of high quality and beautiful cosmetic brands. Discover the latest trends in perfumery brands and profit from attractive offers. Providing excellent advice and a range of unique services. Douglas sets the pace in the upscale beauty market, standing for innovative shopping and service experiences with a touch of luxury both online and in stores. Douglas is established in more than 90 cities in the Netherlands. For addresses see: www.douglas.nl
HOME DELIVERY SERVICE Shop and send your purchases to your home address
送货上门服务 将您购买的商品邮寄至 您的家庭住址 • • • • • •
Delivery to your home address Tax Free Shopping for non-EU residents Buy more and travel light Save time at the airport Choose a delivery date Shipping insurance
Ask in stores for details • • • • • •
配送至您的家庭住址 非欧盟居民购物退税 更多购物，更少负担 节省在机场的时间 选择配送日期 货运险
请在店内咨询详情
SHOP TAX FREE
PHOTO: PETER HEELING/SKITTERPHOTO CC0
S H O P | 33
NETHERLANDS GUIDE
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to the Netherlands with a look at the country’s must-visit destinations, from a Rotterdam sneaker hotspot to one of Amsterdam’s most beautiful restaurants. If you’re visiting in season, don’t miss the fields of tulips (pictured) that are one of the most iconic sights in the Netherlands. Start with SHOP’s recommendations before delving deeper with expert guidance from our welltravelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com.
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● BERSHKA
● DOUGLAS SOUVENIRS ● ● RITUALS CLARKS ● SNEAKERS.NL ● GEOX ● PANDORA ● PEPE JEANS ● ● WE KIEHL'S ●
Café de Paris
Café Luna
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● H&M CHRISTINE LEDUC ●
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MOLESKINE ● SIZE ● NELSON SCHOENEN ● PERRY SPORT HUNKEMÖLLER ● ● + OUTDOOR ● ECCO LEDER PALEIS ● ● KIDS FOOT LOCKER VAN HAREN ● CHEESE AND MORE ● BY HENRI WILLIG DESIGUAL ● FOOT LOCKER ● ● TAFT SHOES AMSTERDAM CHEESE COMPANY ● ● SWAROVSKI ● EXPRESSO O'NEILL ● ● HILFIGER DENIM SCORE ● RAYBAN ●
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Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
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H L IS E NG STO R WE NE BOOK ●
Featured In This Issue
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AMSTERDAM CHEESE COMPANY ● DELIFRANCE ● DE WAAL ● DA M Tax Refund SWAROVSKI ● Lounge H&M ●
T
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Stock Fresh Coffee & Sandwiches
BU
SR
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INTERTOYS ● CHEESE & MORE ● TOURS AND TICKETS ● OPTIONS ●
P.58
The Duchess P.38
MADAME TUSSAUDS
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Shopping Centre/Mall
Tourist Information
Place Of Interest
Global Blue Lounge
MA
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Department Store
T ALLARD PIERSON AA MUSEUM TR NS E L OE ED W EU I N
LV E
FM
M● H& X ● X SX
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● THE MILL DIAMONDS
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DA DU NG EO M N
P.G .C W EE PR EM SE. HA JE NI US CI KD AY ● GA LA & HA M BU RG RS ● ER ●
S VO NIEU W E ZIJD
● GASSAN DAM SQUARE ● SV 10 0%N RS ● DA MH O LL A N D SQ U A RE PA R FU ● SC H ● M A R M ER IE ELTE M JO ● BE TS A Y PA LM ER SH O ES
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SP UISR
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ROKIN
IQ LO ● PU LL UN & BE AR ● N. R. G ● SO UVE.EN IR S ● M AN DA RI JN ● UR BA N M AN GO OU ● TF IT TE Th e Ba ke RS ● ry Co m pa ny SH AR P GE AR ● SH OP RO KI N ● HA RR Y TR SO UV ENOM P ● IR S ● EY EW IS H● KP N ● SU ND AY CAVE RO 'S ● DU TC H FO OD GIKI N ● DO UG LAFT ● J.M . SC S● HM ID T OP LAUNDRY INDUSTRY ● TH E AM ST ER TI EK ●
J D S VO
PA L E I S S T R A AT
Peek & Cloppenburg
38 | N E T H E R L A N D S G U I D E
THE DUCHESS High ceilings, chandeliers, booths and marble pillars mean you’ll be hard-pressed to find a more beautiful restaurant in all of Amsterdam. The Duchess opened in 2015 in a striking historical setting but the menu here is far from dated, and the restaurant holds a Michelin star, so you can be sure the food is as noteworthy as the decor. The bar too has received much praise for its cocktails and wine list. The menu spans not just lunch and dinner, both based around light, refined Mediterranean flavours, but also breakfast and afternoon tea; if you want to eat like royalty in Amsterdam, then The Duchess is the place for you.
The Duchess, Spuistraat 172, 1012 VT Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 811 3322, the-duchess.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 37
Heiligeweg RO KIN
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ER PP HI É AT & S C OR ON R A NS TH ST PPE IN SA E R LY LV ● M AC DE KA P ● ILE Q● E TO ET ST ● L' É L DE R ● S I W E AN N ●● RT SE IE FA D OT M A EK ● ● EO FO L TI T E O T E P ● S A NG K O CR ER ST GAN D U O R S E A C H KO ●● E ● G Y EL AG RO SEI J E ● IN 50 ● NT PL ES Y P VA E VI KI YV CU DI O D CAN ● IJS I T● UN ER SE ● ● IER S EU NE ● AM ● C R I TA E S NL NT VA S A I L E CC R I S ● ● L L’O S T OE N I R I O ● A L H L’ S R V D ● HE U TU E ● KI OT SO P S DA ● ● & U SO R KE & TTE L ● MA CH HA BE ● G OT H R E SC GLIS UL G BA A ● N RF MA PUM E E OU T H CO L
SI
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Kalvertoren Shopping Center
SA
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●
SING
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Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Shopping Centre/Mall
S H O P | 39
Van Baerlestraat VONDELPARKBRUG
VONDELPARK
V O S S I U S S T R A AT
R A AT
RIVIERA MAISON ● RIZE ● AZZURRO KIDS ● PANARA ● HÄSTENS ● INSIGNETY ● PIASTRELLE ● LEICA ●
VA N B A ER LESTRAAT
VO S SI U S S T
ZANDPAD
● AZZURRO ● FOUR
● STEINBERG ● AZZURRO
AMERICAN VINTAGE ●
PIETER CORNELISZ HOOFTSTRAAT
SOCIETY SHOP ●
● MASSIMO DUTTI
REFLECTION ●
● PETIT BATEAU
P.18
OOGAPPEL ●
VA N EEGH EN L A A N
● SIMON MEIJSSEN
SANDWICH ●
FRED DE LA BRETONIERE ●
VAN EEGHENSTRAAT
PEARLE OPTICIENS ●
● ZARA HOME
JA N LUIJK ENSTRAAT
PURDEY ●
THE PEOPLE OF THE LABYRINTHS ●
Conservatorium Hotel
VAN DE VEL D ESTR A AT
HARBOUR TAILORS ●
VAN BAERLESTRAAT
VANILIA ●
ACE & DIK ● PAUW ● ● SUITSUPPLY
LINHARD ●
PAU LU S P OT T ER ST R A AT
WILLEMSPAR KWEG
● SUITSUPPLY
PAU LUS POTTER STRAAT
Small Talk Coffee Corner
THE STEDELIJK MUSEUM
SELECTED STORES IN THE CONSERVATORIUM HOTEL:
VA N B AERLESTRAAT
KORT SHOES ● ARKE ● ABN AMRO● GAASTRA ● PAUL NOYEN ● PAUW ● VILLEROY & BOCH ● PAUW ● VAN BREESTRAAT TWENTY ONE BY MCGREGOR ● VAN GILLS ● IITTALA ● BOEKHANDEL ROBERT PREMSELA ● GANT WOMAN ● NEW FYSIC ● DAVIDOFF OF GENEVA ● GANT MAN ● PAUW MANNEN ● BROEKMANS & VAN POPPEL ●
Bonebakker Culti La Casa Del Habano Skins Cosmetics
MUSEUMPLEIN
Brasserie Keyzer
JAN WILLEM BROUWERSSTRAAT HET CONCERTGEBOUW ROYAL CONCERT HALL
Place Of Interest Café
Restaurant
Hotel
Featured In This Issue
40 | N E T H E R L A N D S G U I D E
The Nine Streets/De Negen Straatjes
S T R A AT
R A A D H UIS
PROJECT AMS ●
A PRESENT ● WAXWELL RECORDS ●
SI N G EL WAXWELL IT'S RECORD ●
ANTONIA BY YVETTE ●
LITERATUR VAN VER EVANAAR ● MARGARETH M. ● CAR2GO ● ACNE ● P.S. AKA DEPOT DELUXE ● MAISON RIKA ●
HERENGRACHT
● SINGEL OPTIEK ● SAS DESIGN ● MAUVE ● NIC NIC ● NATIONAL BRILLEN MUSUEM ● TKLYLTJE ● MECHICAS ● KALPA/DE BOER ● BY FABRIO
LOMOGRAPHY ●
Café Wheels
LEE ●
FILIPPA K ●
BRIX ●
SCOTCH SHRUNK ●
SECOND BEST ●
Bar 22
SING EL ● PORTONOVO ● L'ETOILE DE SAINT HONORE ● SHOEDICTION EMAILLE ● ● ROERNDE ZAKEN RARITEITEN ● KOAN FLOAT TECHNOLOGIES RAYMOND ● WOUTERS & HENDRIX GERRITZEN ● ● RIKA NOA LIFESTYLE ● ● SIMONE
HEREN GR ACHT
KEIZERSGRACHT
FLOOR STUDIOS ● MY 7 WAYS ● LES GALERIES NEUF ● DENHAM ● BY FABRIO ● DENHAM CORNER ●
Café De Doffer
LOCAL SERVICE (MEN’S) ● MOKU ● THE DARLING ● MENSOCKS ● MOSCOW ● VELOUR ● GERDA’S ●
WE ARE LABELS ● ● KALDI CARLA PALERMO ● ● LE SOUK BEADIES AMSTERDAM ● ● LAURA DOLS SAM FRIDAY ● ● KO Café Pompadour ● VITTORIO MARCHESI ACE & TATE ● ● GALERIE DE SALON VELOUR ● GOODS ● ● CLOSED BY FABRIO ● ● REPLAY DJOEKE WESSING ● ● ECCO SPIEGEL BEEJD ● ● SAMSØE & SAMSØE JOZ ● ● SAPORO SAM FRIDAY ● TONY COHEN ● LOULOU ● MARIE-STELLA-MA RIS ●
Bar Outbijit
● HAR BARBAAR
Café Nielsen
● EPISODE ● DE PINGUIN ● MENDO ● SCOTCH & SODA
● KUNST HAAR ● JOZ ● SMAAK ● GLAS-IN-LOOD
HERENGRACHT
● LEF ● HOOFF HOOFF ● ITALIAN GLAMOUR ● ROZA ● LOULOU
Café Des Pels
● SCOTCH & SODA ● ZIPPER ● IL VAGABONDO ● RUM ● LIEBESKIND BERLIN ● GEM KINGDOM ● RAIN ● RELAXED AT HOME ● JOLENE JOLINK ● JOJO
KEIZERSGRACHT
● VAN RAVENSTEIN
P R INSENGRACH T
● LOCAL SERVICE (WOMEN’S) ● WOK & ZO ● HAMKO ● DE WITTE TRANDENWINKEL ● DA KAASKAMER ● VANILIA ● SKINS COSMETICS ● LUST ● TOMS ● DENHAM BAR ● DENHAM ● VANS ● DE WIJN WINKEL ● BAKKERY PAUL ANÉE ● MINT MINI MAN ● BEAUREGARD ● FANOUS
Café
H EREN GRACHT
KEIZERSGRACHT
● PARWAN ● HESTER VAN EEGHAN ● ML COLLECTIONS ● FAB ● RABEANCO ● MARC O’POLO ● M-E-K ● EXOTA ● TIMBERLAND ● KAGETSU ● KLEIKOLLEKTIEF ● COS ● FRED PERRY ● DR WONEN ● PURNA ● SUSPENDERS ● BLOSHAAR ● HESTER VAN EEGHAN ● PINA
REBEL CHIC ● PARISIENNE ●
Coffee Company
Restaurant Struisvogel
THAI FUSION ●
Restaurant Zurantje
FASHION FLAIRS ●
Pancakes!
KOOKAÏ ● BOEKIE WOEKIE ● MARLIES DEKKERS ● DE 9 HEREN ● POP-UP STORE! ● PRETTY RINGS ● TOOS & B ROOS ●
PR INSENGR ACHT
● DE WELDAAD ● AMSTERDAM WATCH COMPANY ● FIFTIES SIXTIES
Tin Pan Alley
Koffeehuis De Hoek
● NOOCH ● CHUCK PALU HOME ● RED WING SHOES ● GALERIE LUGHIEN ● HARTENKAAS ● TERRA ● KOKO VAN KNABEL ● TABAK
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Bar
Global Blue Retailer
Restaurant
WIJDE HEISTEEG
HUIDENSTRAAT
RUNSTRAAT
OUDE SPIEGELSTRAAT
WOLVENSTRAAT
BERENSTRAAT
GASTHUISMOLENSTEEG HARTENSTRAAT
REESTRAAT
SUMMUM ● SIR MAX ● TIKAL ● FLIP*FLOP ● KARL LAGERFELD ● THE GAMEKEEPER ● CARHARTT ● DANIELE ALESSANDRINI ● MC LENNAN'S PURE SILK ● LOCKSTOCK & BARREL ● BLGK EDELSMEDEN ● VAREKAMP ● DE MAAGD & DE LEEUWE ● MIAUW ●
KEIZERSGRACHT
Bussia
MISS JONES ●
SUPER ● JUFFROUW JANSEN ●
WTG ●
GALERIE GALUK ● DANIELE ALESSANDRINI ● ● NUMMER 9
● WON HUNDRED GALLERIA D’ARTE ● RINASCIMENTO
S H O P | 41
MERCER
and ‘cold’ combinations of red with orange and burgundy with navy. Standing for independence and individuality, Mercer bridges the gap between streetwear and luxury, combining high-grade materials with on-trend New York-inspired designs. Pauw, Bergse Dorpsstraat 20A-22, 3054 GA Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 422 7748, merceramsterdam.com
For sneakerheads looking for Dutch design at its finest, Mercer has introduced the Backspin Mid. Reminiscent of 80s basketball styles, with a high-top silhouette and a wave motif on the side, the sneaker is handmade in Portugal using fine Italian leather. There are four key colourways: classic black and white, plus Mercer’s own ‘hot’
Kalverstraat North DA M ● TRÉSOR
SWATCH ● NYX ● UNDER ARMOUR ● SACHA ● RIVER ISLAND ●
● BJÖRN BORG ● POP CULT ● UNIQLO ● FOREVER 21 ● PULL & BEAR ● KIKO ● PIECES
CHASIN’ ●
● MANFIELD
BAZAR ●
● VILA
OBEY YOUR BODY ●
● URBAN OUTFITTERS
ICI PARIS XL ●
● MANGO
SCORE ●
● JAMIN
ZARA ●
Department Store
● SIDESTEP FOOTWEAR
● CITY DIAMONDS
K A LV
DIDI ●
ER ST
GEOX ●
R A AT
TOPSHOP ● STRADIVARIUS ●
● SIX ● BIJOU BRIGITTE
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DESIGUAL ● HOLLAND AND BARRETT ●
DA M
● SNIPES
ROKIN
THE STING ●
K A LV E R S T R A AT
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Peek & Cloppenburg N IE U W E Z IJ D S V O O R B U R G WA L
PA
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T AA
42 | N E T H E R L A N D S G U I D E
● BUHJAH
● DENHAM
Momo
● PC BAGS ROMEO ● VETRO
● QUESTO
PC Hooftstraat ● KARMALOOG MAJE ● ● HOUSE OF OLVI'S ● SANDRO G-STAR ● NATAN RAW ●
OROGOLD ●
PROFUOMO ● KAAKS SOUVENIRS ●
RIJKSMUSEUM
HOBBEMAS TR AAT
AATKWEG WILLEMSPAR HOBBEMASTR
● TESLA CARS ● ASPACT
GIMMICKS ● WOOLRICH ● BOGGI ●
WATCH CITY ROYAL COSTER DIAMONDS
● SOUVENIRS33.COM
ICE AMSTERDAM
● STONE ISLAND
SCHAAP EN CITROEN ● LACOSTE ●
● EMPORIO ARMANI
TASCHEN ●
● FENDI
DIAMOND MUSEUM AMSTERDAM
● RIMOWA
MULBERRY ●
● CHOPARD ● LA PERLA
● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ● PRADA
HONTHORSTSTRAAT HOUSE OF BOLS ●
● LOUIS VUITTON ● LONGCHAMP
JAN LUIJKENST R AAT
● FENDI ● KAREN MILLEN ● BULGARI ● OGER ● WOLFORD
MAX MARA ● CHURCH’S ● MCGREGOR ● P.C. HOOFT CLINIC ● HUGO BOSS ● ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● MARC CAIN ● NESPRESSO ● CLAUDIA STRÄTER ● CARTIER ● PAUL SMITH ● SCHAAP & CITROEN ● HUBLOT ●
● ● ● ● ●
Café Georgette
RALPH LAUREN OGER DONNA LIU-JO HERMÈS BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
VAN GOGH MUSEUM
VAN DE VELDESTRAAT ● TOMMY HILFIGER
P.16
● CALVIN KLEIN
PAU LU S P OT T ER ST R AAT
V O S SI U S S T R A AT
P C H OOFTSTRAAT
DOLCE & GABBANA ● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ● LORENZO FUENTE ●
● MONTBLANC
PAU LU S P OT T ER STRA AT
PC HOO FTSTRAAT
VOSSIUSST RA AT
● IWC / SCHAAP EN CITROEN
BURBERRY ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ● IKKS MEN & WOMAN ● GUCCI ● JIMMY CHOO ● BALLY ● CHANEL ● CORNELIANI ● TOURBILLON ● TOD'S ● ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● SHOEBALOO ● GUESS BY MARCIANO ● GASSAN ● TIFFANY & CO. ● CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ● MONCLER ● ANNE FONTAINE ● CHANEL ● AGENT PROVACATEUR ● DIOR ● THE KOOPLES ● JAEGER-LECOULTRE ●
● DOUGLAS ● MICHAEL KORS ● CAROLINA BLISS ● MARINA RINALDI ● HACKETT ● KING’S SQUARE ● DIESEL BLACK GOLD ● DSQUARED2 ● ICI PARIS XL ● HILFIGER DENIM
STEDELIJK MUSEUM
● MASSIMO DUTTI
VAN BAERLESTRAAT
VAN BAERLESTRAAT
VONDELPARK
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Featured In This Issue
Café
Restaurant
Place Of Interest
S H O P | 43
Leidsestraat
SINGEL
● ACE & SPYER ● MICHAL NEGRIN ● SHOEBALOO FROCELLA ● ● KINGS SQUARE ● OCCHIALI OPTICIENS
ARKET ●
Johannes H ER E N
GR AC H
T
H ER E N
ECCO ●
● ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● ADIDAS ● SUPERTRASH ● G-STAR ● KAREN MILLEN ● RITUALS ● 6AM
LEVI’S ● INVOTIS ● LUSH ● PAUW ● COS ● JUST BRANDS ● SOUVENIRS ● JULIETTE POUR ROMEO ● MICHAEL KORS ● NEW BALANCE ●
ABERCROMBIE & FITCH ●
HT
BOOTS MANFIELD CHEESE & MORE BY HENRI WILLIG HOLLAND AND BARRETT
● ● ● ●
HARTMAN CIGARS ●
KE RK
ST RA AT
TED BAKER ●
LEIDSESTRAAT
S G R AC
DANIELE DENTIA ● BUGABOO ●
K EIZ ER
LEDER PALEIS ● CORA KEMPERMAN ● POUR VOUS ● SUNGLASS HUT ● TOURS & TICKETS ●
PRINSENGR
globalblue.com
● ● ● ● ● ●
PALLADIUM ASPACT HUNKEMOLLER ASPACT ONITSUKA TIGER T G R AC H SACHA EI Z ER S
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
HANRO MAG BAG CHASIN’ PAUL WARMER P.12 BRANDY MELVILLE POP CULT SOUVENIRS PANDORA FILIPPA K TIMBERLAND CAMPER
K
● NEW ZEALAND AUCKLAND ● ICI PARIS XL ● SOUVENIRSHOP DE AMSTERDAMMER ● IKKS WOMEN ● MAC
AC H T
CYNTHIA ● TOP WATCH ●
T
● HUGO BOSS
AMSTERDAM CHEESE COMPANY ●
YOUNG DESIGNERS ● UNITED
G R A CH
● THE BODY SHOP
P R IN SE N GR
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44 | N E T H E R L A N D S G U I D E
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NEW YORK BARBERSHOP
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Place Of Interest
Tourist Information
Restaurant
Hotel
LAA
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S H O P | 45
THE HAGUE KO
Oker
NI NG IN NE
ART BOULEVARD
GR HT
AD E
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Dendy
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HOFKWARTIER ROYAL PALACE
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● MARINA RINALDI
LA
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Hofvijver Plein 1g MAURITSHUIS
● SCHAAP & CITROEN
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MUSEUM DE GEVANGENPOORT
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● WOLFORD ● PAUW
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BINNENHOF FRED VAN ● MAX MARA O WORDRAGEN ● ● MAC PARLIAMENT F VAN LIER ● IN ● HUGO BOSS DE RODE SE ● CREDO LOPER ● ACE & ST ● MICHAEL KORS IITTALA ● R A ● TATE ● JUWELIER VAN WILLGEN TIMBERLAND ● H&M ● AT HO THE SOCIETY SHOP ● ● PRIMARK F W EG L'OCCITANE ● Dudok KORZO THE STING ● ● APPLE ● ASPACT Hudson's Bay PANDORA ● G-STAR RAW ● PASSAGE VANILIA ● RA AT AT RA De Bijenkorf ● DR MARTENS ST UI P S MO
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P.19
LA CASA DEL HABANO THE HAGUE
PALEISTUIN
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Department Store
TR
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Featured In This Issue
EM
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46 | N E T H E R L A N D S G U I D E
DAY TRIP
BATAVIA STAD FASHION OUTLET Batavia Stad Fashion Outlet offers visitors more than 250 international fashion and lifestyle brands with savings from 30% up to a massive 70%. Be inspired by the latest trends, enjoy a delicious coffee or lunch and shop all your favourite brands. Batavia Stad Fashion Outlet, Bataviaplein 60, 8242 PN Lelystad, +31 (0)320 292900, bataviastad.com S116
OPENING TIMES Monday-Friday: 10am-6pm Saturday-Sunday: 10am-8pm AMSTERDAM CENTRAAL STATION
Batavia Stad Fashion Outlet Shopping Shuttle S100
S100 S100
HOW TO GET THERE By car From Amsterdam, take the Lelystad-Noord exit on the A6 highway and follow the Batavia Stad signs. By train From Amsterdam Centraal station, take the train to Lelystad Centrum. From here, Batavia Stad is a short distance on bus number 3 or by taxi.
Train Station
Outlet
By shuttle bus We invite you to use the special daily shopping shuttle bus direct to Batavia Stad from the official pick-up point at the Bus Parking de Ruijterkade Oost (Amsterdam River Cruise Port bus stop). The bus leaves Amsterdam at 10am, returning from Batavia Stad at 4pm. A return ticket costs â‚Ź5 for adults and â‚Ź2.50 for children aged from 4 to 12.
Bus Station
BATAVIASTAD.COM
48
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TRANSLATIONS 中文翻译 22: TWENTY-FIRST CENTURY COUTURE 二十 一世 纪 的高级定制 荷兰品牌正在颠覆经典高级定 制时装的传统规则，吸引了年 轻的新受众。Lucinda Turner为 您一 解详情 高级定制曾经 是 上流社会 和 衣 柜 塞 满 古着香奈儿套 装的女 士们 的专 宠， 而今 却正在快 速寻 找 着 新受 众。千禧 一代不 仅 迅 速 成 为了奢侈品的最大买 家，也成 为了高级定制时装的主要消 费 者。要 想分得一 块 蛋 糕，品牌们必 须学会 适 应。 毋庸 置 疑 的高定 之都巴 黎 仍旧是 大多 数高级定制品牌 的 根 据地，然 而，一 年两届的巴 黎高定 时装周日程 上，却 有三个 知名品牌来自荷兰。虽 说荷兰一直以其 前卫时尚闻名，这 三 个品牌却 打入了世界上 最尊贵 最 封闭 的时尚圈子之一，并正着眼于将高级 定制时装引入 关 键的千禧 市场。 Viktor & Rolf是荷兰高级定制 时装先 锋 之一。Viktor Horsting及 其 在 艺 术学 校 的 好友 Rolf Snoere 于 1993年 建 立了这个品牌。近 30年 间，Viktor & Rolf 不断更 迭 重 塑，推 动着时尚的边界。Viktor & Rolf一直 在 打造 严格意义 上 的高级定制时装系 列，直到 2000年，Horsting和 Snoere 才决定向成 衣 市场 迈 进，开启新 纪 元，随 后又在 2014年 重 返高定 时装。 Viktor & Rolf的业务在 那时
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已 获得了长足的发 展。2005年， 该品牌 的第一款 香 氛“鲜花炸弹 （ Flowerbomb）”诞 生，它让Viktor & Rolf从一 般 人 难以 企 及的高定 时 装品牌变成 家 喻户晓 的名字，至今已 衍生出多 款 产品。随 后几 年，Viktor & Rolf又推出了男士香水“香料炸弹 （ Spicebomb）”以 及另一款 女 士香 水“ 糖果（ BonBon）”。如此 看来， 产品多元化 和品牌认 知度是 吸引 现代高定 时装 顾客的关 键。香水 之 外，Viktor & Rolf 还在 2014年 推出了 和 Atelier Swarovski合作的 首 批 珠宝 系列。2018年，Viktor & Rolf在 鹿特 丹的 艺 术厅（ Kunsthal Museum） 举办了庆祝品牌成 立 25周年的展 览。2016年，Viktor & Rolf Mariage 系列更将这个品牌 带 给了准 新娘们。 Mariage 系列以婚 纱的形式 呈 现了 Viktor & Rolf高级定制的形 态 和风 格。通常情况下，婚 纱作为 女 士 们 在 人 生中购买的最昂贵礼 服，自然 而然 也是 一 种 “ 高级定制”。Mariage 系列获得了巨大的成 功，因此合作 方鹿特 丹婚 纱礼 服制作公司 Justin Alexander在 2019年又与 Viktor & Rolf共同开发了第二条生产线：Soir， 主 打灵感同样来源于高定设 计的优 雅 晚 礼 服。Viktor＆ Rolf的入门款价格 约为 3, 000欧 元。这 些 连 衣 裙色 彩 缤 纷、装饰 精美、风 格现代，明确面向 于想要进 入Viktor & Rolf 世界 的千 禧一代 年 轻 顾客群。 荷兰高定设 计师 Iris van Herpen 提 升 认 知度的方 式 是与其他品牌合 作奢华高端 的项目，微 妙 地 展 露时 尚态度。2014年，这位以大 胆 雕 塑感 作品闻名的设 计师 和香 槟品牌 Dom Pérignon合作了Metamorphosis项 目，并在 纽 约时装周上 发布。顾客们 受 邀购买 特 别设 计的 瓶 装 香 槟 和 van
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Herpen的限 量 版艺 术佳作。这个合 作 项目让每 件商品都成 为了收 藏品， 如同独一 无二的高级时装一 般。 既然 香 槟 和高定 时装可以携 手 共进，van Herpen的最 新合作 项目 则更出新意。2018年，她 和澳 大 利 亚美妆品牌 Aesop合作了Atlas of Attraction项目。这位荷兰高定 时装 师为四款限 量护肤 套 装设 计了复杂 精 致的雕 塑感 包 装，让 人联 想 到她 的高定 时装，同时也为 Aesop的门店 设 计了橱 窗 艺 术陈列。引人注目的设 计 让 Aesop的顾客们感受 到 Iris van Herpen美学。Aesop是 Instagram 一代 人心目中的奢侈 护肤品牌，因此 该 合作 项目也向千禧一代介 绍了这 个他们 也许尚不了解的高级定制时 装品牌。
在为 Michael Kors 、Celine等 国际品牌工作了 25年之后，van der Kemp决定回到他的 祖国并开 创自己 的同名品牌，他如此说 道：“ 对 于我而 言，荷兰是 一 个能 够让我 专注于工作 且不 被国际时尚界 的需 求 和压力所打 扰的 好地 方。” 也许这 就 是秘 密所在。荷兰为创 造力蓬 勃发 展 提 供了空间，同时也 推 动了传 统高级定制时装的边界。通 过 各方面的创新合作、新兴工作实践 和 直 接的多元化产品 拓展，荷兰的时尚 品牌似乎正在为高级定制时装的新 纪 元铺平道 路。
Ronald van der Kemp （ RVDK）是另一 位 擅长合作 之 道 的荷兰设 计师。国际名模 Kendall Jenner和 Gigi Hadid都是 van der Kemp半定制品牌 的粉 丝。在 2019春 夏系列中，van der Kemp和阿姆斯 特 丹 运 动 鞋品牌 Filling Pieces进行了 合作。这个在 Instagram上 拥有近 五 十万 粉 丝的现代 鞋 类品牌为高级时装 和街头潮流 搭 建了桥梁。这是 现代高 级时装 顾客驾轻 就 熟的 市场，也 正是 van der Kemp热 衷参 与的 市场。 成 立于 2014年的品牌 RVDK着 眼于可持 续 性，这是能 够 吸引千禧一 代的关 键点之一。“我们 正在 通 过我 们 的道 德途 径 为高定 时装 铺路。我 认 为这一代 人 更 想要 寻 找 有责任感 且 激动人心的替 代品。” van der Kemp 说 道，“ 高定 时装应当是华 美的、令人 振 奋 的、制造 精良的服 装，而 不是大 型 展 出式 衣饰。我 希望千禧一代能 够 认识 到这一点！” RVDK的服 装由现 有的高端 材料和往季剩 余布料制成， 色 彩明艳、体 感 丰 盈、可穿性 强。也 许，这 正是为 新 一代 所打造 的高级定 制品牌。
Scan the QR code to subscribe to Global Blue’s official WeChat services. Receive the latest shopping and tax refund information. Track and manage your refund, and get online customer service and other tax refund services. 扫描二维码，订阅环球蓝联官方微 信。接收最新的购物和退税信息。 追踪和管理您的退税，获取在线客服 及其他退税服务。
48: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 畅购全球， 尊享退税 当您在 全 球 顶级购物区中的 30多万家 商店消费时，环 球蓝联购物退 税 服务
52 （Global Blue Tax Free Shopping） 为 您节省购物开 销。 每 年大 约有两千六百多万名游客享用 环 球蓝联（Global Blue）的购物退 税 服务，何不加入他们的行列？您只 需 在购物时留意环 球蓝联（Global Blue）的蓝 星标志，或 直接问询商家 是 否提 供环 球蓝联（Global Blue） 退 税 服务，然后遵 循以下简单的退 税 流程即可：
1. 购物消费 无论 您在哪里购物，请向商家索要 环 球蓝联 退 税 表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并 保存好购物票据。
2. 申领 退税 在您返 程离境前，请 前往海 关柜台， 出示 退 税 表格和 相关票据，获取海 关 印章，然后再到环 球蓝联的退 税 点领 取 退 税 款。 联 系方式 : taxfree@ globalblue. com + 421 232 111 111 最低消费 50欧 元即可申请 退 税， 能 够节省高达16%的商品购买 价。 请注 意：您收到的退 税 款 是增 值税减 去环 球蓝联的手 续费。 如果您 选 择 现 金 退 税，部 分机 场 还 将以退 税申请 表为单位收取 现 金 退 税手 续费。
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД
22: TWENTY-FIRST CENTURY COUTURE ВЫСОКАЯ МОДА 21 ВЕКА Нидерландские бренды рушат все писаные и неписаные правила классической высокой моды – и захватывают внимание новой молодой аудитории, – рассказывает Люсинда Тернер Раньше высокая мода была привилегией высшего слоя общества и тех женщин, чьи гардеробы украшали костюмы Chanel. Теперь же кутюр стремительно завоевывает новую аудиторию. Миллениалы не только интересуются роскошными товарами, но и становятся основными заказчиками haute couture. И бренды вынуждены считаться с этими переменами, globalblue.ru
чтобы сохранить свою репутацию. Родина высокой моды, разумеется, Париж, и здесь попрежнему располагаются самые известные модные дома. Но если внимательно изучить расписание Недели высокой моды, которая проходит во французской столице дважды в год, то можно увидеть, что свои произведения там представляют сразу три престижных бренда из Нидерландов. Наибольшую славу Нидерландам принесла авангардная мода, но эти марки сумели войти в самую изысканную сферу и найти подход к аудитории миллениалов. Основоположником голландской высокой моды можно назвать бренд Viktor & Rolf. éго в 1993 году открыли друзья по художественной школе
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Виктор Хорстинг и Рольф Снорен. На протяжении почти 30 лет бренд регулярно переосмысляет свой образ, всякий раз раздвигая границы допустимого. До 2000 года Хорстинг и Снорен занимались только высокой модой. В новом веке они решили изучить рынок готовой одежды, а в 2014 году – вернулись к кутюру. К тому моменту компания Viktor & Rolf уже проделала большой путь. Когда в 2005 году появился первый парфюм Flowerbomb, который теперь доступен в нескольких вариантах, компания превратилась из бренда недосягаемой высокой моды в крупное объединение. Вскоре увидел свет мужской парфюм Spicebomb и еще один женский BonBon. В 2014 году состоялся первый ювелирный проект Viktor & Rolf совместно с Atelier Swarovski, а в 2016 появилась линия Viktor & Rolf Mariage, которая привела бренду аудиторию молодоженов. Свое 25-летие компания отметила выставкой в роттердамском музее Kunsthal Museum в 2018 году. Вероятно, подобное многообразие и компетентность сразу в нескольких областях и оказались привлекательными для современных покупателей. Линия Mariage задействует формы и силуэты коллекций haute couture и воплощает их в нарядах для невест. Обычно свадебное платье оказывается самым дорогим в жизни женщины, и в этом проявляется прямая связь с высокой модой. Партнером бренда в этом проекте стала роттердамская компания Justin Alexander, которая занимается свадебной и праздничной одеждой.
Успех свадебной линии позволил продолжить сотрудничество и в 2019 году: новая коллекция Soir посвящена элегантной вечерней одежде и тоже вдохновлена высокой модой. Яркие платья с декоративной отделкой выдержаны в современной эстетике. Цены на них начинаются от 3000 евро – это начальный уровень для Viktor & Rolf. Все свидетельствует о том, что новые линии бренда предназначены для молодых покупателей, которые только входят в мир Viktor & Rolf. Кутюрье из Нидерландов Ирис ван Херпен, славу которой принесли смелые скульптурные модели, выходит к новой аудитории через совместные проекты, даже если их связь с модой едва уловима. В 2014 году ее партнером стала компания Dom Pérignon, и на Неделе моды в Нью-Йорке состоялась премьера проекта Metamorphosis. Гостей пригласили заказывать особое шампанское, разработанное к этому случаю, и уникальные произведения ван Херпен. Это сотрудничество и само событие подняли статус и вина, и одежды до коллекционного, как это и бывает с высокой модой. Но шампанское и высокая мода все-таки часто идут рука об руку. В 2018 году ван Херпен пошла еще дальше и объединилась с австралийским косметическим брендом Aesop. В рамках проекта Atlas of Attraction она создала изящные скульптурные флаконы для четырех наборов косметики, выпущенных ограниченной серией, а также витринную инсталляцию для магазинов Aesop. Творения кутюрье знакомят клиентов Aesop с эстетикой
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Iris van Herpen. А поскольку бренд Aesop востребован у поколения Инстаграма, то этот совместный проект представляет миллениалам бренд высокой моды, который они до этого могли и не знать. Голландский дизайнер Рональд ван дер Кемп тоже оценил преимущества коллабораций. Поклонницами его коллекций demi-couture уже стали модели Кендалл Дженнер и Джиджи Хадид. Над коллекцией весналето 2019 ван дер Кемп работал вместе с амстердамским брендом кроссовок Filling Pieces. Эта современная компания, у которой почти полмиллиона подписчиков в Инстаграме, заполняет пробел между высокой модой и уличной одеждой. А ведь эта ниша очень востребована у современных потребителей кутюра – и именно ее хочет освоить ван дер Кемп. Бренд RVDK, основанный в 2014 году, сосредоточен на экологичности – очень важной для миллениалов теме: «Этический подход помогает нам создавать будущее для высокой моды. Я верю, что новое поколение будет искать ответственные и вдохновляющие альтернативы, – размышляет ван дер Кемп. – Высокая мода посвящена красивой, воодушевляющей, качественной одежде, а не показному шоу. Я надеюсь, что миллениалы сумеют осознать это!» Из существующих качественных материалов и остатков неиспользованной ткани RVDK создает яркие, объемные и удобные в ношении вещи. Может быть, таким и должен быть дом высокой моды для нового поколения? globalblue.ru | globalblue.com
Ван дер Кемп 25 лет работал с международными брендами, такими как Michael Kors и Celine. Затем он решил вернуться на родину и открыть компанию под собственным именем: «Для меня Нидерланды – это идеальное место, чтобы сконцентрироваться на своей работе и не отвлекаться на требования и давление мировой моды», – делится он. Возможно, в этом и кроется секрет. Нидерланды дают пространство для творчества, где давно сложившиеся границы допустимого с легкостью раздвигаются. Передовые совместные проекты, новые деловые практики и расширение ассортимента в самых неожиданных направлениях – похоже, нидерландские модные дома уверенно прокладывают себе дорогу в новую эру высокой моды.
48: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С T AX FREE
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найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.
seperti yang ditemukan Lucinda Turner Pernah menjadi cadangan kalangan
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atas dan kaum hawa yang lemarinya sesak dengan setelan Chanel masa lalu, adibusana menemukan dengan cepat khalayak baru. Kaum milenial dengan cepat menjadi bukan hanya pembeli
2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов.
terbesar barang-barang mewah, namun juga pembeli utama adibusana, sehingga label-label harus beradaptasi demi meraup potongan kue ini. Paris, rumah adibusana yang tiada pesaing, masih menjadi pangkalan sebagian besar rumah mode – namun,
Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €50 и сэкономьте до 16% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
lihatlah jadwal untuk Haute Couture Fashion Week dua tahunan kota ini, dan tiga dari merek-merek bergengsi yang tampil adalah merek Belanda. Sementara Belanda sudah lama dikenal karena suasana mode avant-garde, ketiga rumah mode ini menembus salah satu lingkaran paling eksklusif sedunia – dan menjawab pertanyaan tentang cara membawa adibusana ke pasar milenial utama. Salah satu perintis terawal adibusana Belanda adalah Viktor & Rolf. Didirikan di tahun 1993 oleh dua teman sekolah seni
TERJEMAHAN BAHASA INDONESIA 22: TWENTY-FIRST CENTURY COUTURE
Viktor Horsting dan Rolf Snoeren, merek ini sudah menemukan ulang dirinya dan mendorong batas-batas selama hampir 30 tahun. Setelah memproduksi hanya koleksi adibusana hingga tahun 2000, Horsting dan Snoeren lalu memutuskan untuk menjelajahi pasar baju siap pakai selama
ADIBUSANA ABAD DUA PULUH SATU
dasawarsa berikutnya sebelum kembali ke
Merek-merek Belanda mencabik-cabik buku aturan ketika menyangkut adibusana klasik – dan menawan hati khalayak baru yang muda,
sudah berpaling jauh dari akarnya. Di
adibusana di tahun 2014. Pada saat itu, bisnis Viktor & Rolf tahun 2005, wewangian pertama merek ini, Flowerbomb, tersedia di beragam inkarnasi, dialihrupakan oleh Viktor & Rolf dari merek adibusana yang tidak
56
teraih menjadi name rumah tangga.
serupa patung, bekerja sama dengan
Tahun-tahun selanjutnya menyaksikan
Dom PĂŠrignon di Metamorphosis, sebuah
peluncuran Spicebomb yang maskulin
proyek yang diluncurkan di New York
dan wewangian perempuan lainnya,
Fashion Week. Para pelanggan diundang
BonBon. Tampaknya diversifikasi dan
untuk membeli botol-botol sampanye
kesadaran tersebut adalah kunci untuk
yang dirancang khusus bersama karya-
menarik pelanggan adibusana modern.
karya seni edisi terbatas oleh van Herpen.
Bersama wewangian, 2014 menandai
Acara dan kolaborasi itu mengubah setiap
kolaborasi perhiasan pertama Viktor &
keping menjadi barang kolektor, sangat
Rolf dengan Atelier Swarovski, 2018
mirip kepingan adibusana sekali buat.
menyaksikan pameran di Kunsthal
Sementara sampanye dan adibusana
Museum di Rotterdam yang merayakan
dapat bergandengan tangan, kemitraan
25 tahun merek ini, dan di tahun 2016
terbaru van Herpen sedikit lebih keluar
Viktor & Rolf Mariage membawa label ke
jalur. Di tahun 2018, dia bekerja bersama
khalayak baru calon mempelai putri.
merek kecantikan Australia Aesop di
Lini Mariage membawa bentuk
proyek Atlas of Attraction. Perancang
dan gaya adibusana merek ini dan
adibusana Belanda ini merancang
menerjemahkannya menjadi gaun
kemasan yang rumitnya serupa patung,
pengantin; karena gaun pernikahan
yang mengingatkan akan potongan-
adalah gaun termahal secara umum
potongan adibusananya, untuk empat kit
yang akan dibeli seorang perempuan di
kecantikan edisi terbatas, serta instalasi
dalam hidupnya, tautan adibusananya
jendela untuk toko-toko Aesop. Desain
nyata. Lini Mariage terbukti menjadi
yang mencolok mata memberi pelanggan
kesuksesan besar, sampai-sampai untuk
Aesop sekeping estetika Iris van Herpen;
tahun 2019, Justin Alexander, perusahaan
Aesop adalah merek perawatan kulit
baju pengantin dan baju perhelatan
mewah yang wajib kunjung dari generasi
yang berpangkalan di Rotterdam yang
Instagram, dan dengan demikian, proyek
memproduksi bersama Mariage, telah
bersama ini mengenalkan kaum milenial
berkolaborasi dengan Viktor & Rolf untuk
dengan merek adibusana yang sebelumnya
lini kedua, Soir – baju pesta malam yang
tidak mereka kenal.
anggun yang dengan mirip diilhami oleh
Ronald van der Kemp adalah jago
desain adibusana. Harga awal sekitar
Belanda lainnya untuk seni kolaborasi.
â‚Ź3.000 adalah tingkat entri menurut
Untuk musim semi/musim panas
standar Viktor & Rolf. Gaun-gaun
2019, van der Kemp, yang merek
ini semarak, sarat hiasan, dan, di atas
setengah adibusananya memasukkan
segalanya, modern, ditujukan dengan jelas
Kendall Jenner dan Gigi Hadid sebagai
kepada pelanggan milenial muda yang
penggemar, sudah berkolaborasi dengan
mencari gerbang ke dunia Viktor & Rolf.
merek pelatih yang berpangkalan di
Perancang adibusana Belanda Iris
Amsterdam, Filling Pieces. Perusahaan
van Herpen menjawab kesadaran dengan
alas kaki kontemporer ini, yang
berkolaborasi pada proyek-proyek mewah
mengagulkan hampir setengah juta
yang tautannya ke mode amat halus. Di
pengikut Instagram, menjembatani
tahun 2014, perancang ini, yang terkenal
kesenjangan antara mode kelas tinggi dan
karena karya-karya yang berani dan
baju jalanan, pasar yang difasihi dengan
globalblue.com
57
baik oleh pelanggan adibusana modern,
Setelah 25 tahun bekerja dengan
dan yang ingin dimasuki van der Kemp.
merek-merek internasional seperti
Didirikan di tahun 2014, merek
Michael Kors dan Celine, van der
RVDK berfokus pada kelestarian – sebuah
Kemp memutuskan pulang ke negeri
masalah utama bagi kaum milenial. 'Kami
asalnya untuk memulai lini yang senama
membuka jalan ke depan untuk adibusana
dengannya. 'Belanda bagi saya adalah
dengan pendekatan etis kami. Saya
tempat yang bagus untuk berkonsentrasi
yakin bahwa generasi ini akan mencari
pada pekerjaan saya sendirian tanpa harus
alternatif yang bertanggung jawab dan
teralihkan oleh tuntutan dan tekanan
menggairahkan,' ujar van der Kemp.
dunia mode internasional,' paparnya.
'Adibusana harus tentang busana yang
Mungkin itulah rahasianya. Belanda
cantik, menggembirakan, dan dibuat
mengizinkan ruang untuk memekarkan
dengan bagus, bukan produksi pagelaran
kreativitas dan mendorong batas-batas
besar. Saya berharap kaum milenial akan
adibusana tradisional. Lewat kolaborasi
mengenali ini!" Diciptakan dari bahan-
inovatif, praktik kerja baru, dan sekadar
bahan kelas atas yang ada dan kain-kain
meluaskan tawaran dengan arah berbeda
perca, busana RVDK adalah cerah,
yang menggairahkan, tampaknya rumah-
longgar, dan enak disandang. Rumah
rumah mode Belanda meretas jalan untuk
adibusana untuk generasi baru, mungkin?
era baru adibusana.
48: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE SAAT INGIN MEMBORONG DUNIA, BELANJALAH BEBAS PAJAK Belanja Bebas Pajak Global Blue memberi
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CITY LIGHTS Famed for its modern, colourful glassware and eclectic ceramics, Amsterdam-based Pols Potten is certainly worth discovering when visiting the Dutch capital. Founded in 1986, the homeware brand collaborates with dozens of designers who, along with its in-house team, aim to add a sense of fun and Dutch creativity to any interior space. To take a piece of both Pols Potten and Amsterdam Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 48
home with you, the brand’s canal-house tealight holders are a brilliant choice. Depicting three different building styles from the terraces that line Amsterdam’s waterways, these small imitations pour light out of their windows and will remind you of your time in the city whenever they are lit. lt Pols Potten tealight holders, €30.50 each, De Bijenkorf, Dam 1, 1012 JS Amsterdam, +31 (0)88 245 4488, polspotten.nl FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 37
PHOTO: HANNELORE VANDENBUSSCHE
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