SHOP Nuremberg AW15

NUREMBERG | НЮРНБЕРГ | 纽伦堡 | ‫نورمبج‬

NUREMBERG

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City Edition Autumn/Winter 2015/16

Discover Nuremberg’s signature gingerbread

Nürnberg Hefnersplatz 4-6

Willkommen bei Bucherer, ein Schweizer Traditionsunternehmen und eines der führenden Häuser für Uhren und Schmuck in Europa.

In unserem Nürnberger Geschäft am Hefnersplatz erwartet Sie eine große Auswahl an Luxus-Uhrenmarken und exquisiter Schmuckstücke sowie ein erstklassiger Service.

Welcome to Bucherer,

WATCHES JEWELRY GEMS

a Swiss company with a long tradition and one of the leading establishments for watches and jewellery in Europe.

In our Nuremberg store directly at Hefnersplatz you will find a broad selection of luxury watch brands and exquisite jewellery, as well as first-class service.

Patek Philippe is available at the following Bucherer stores: Berlin Friedrichstraße 179, Frankfurt Kaiserstraße 1 and Munich Residenzstraße 11.

Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Nuremberg | Basel Bern Davos Geneva Interlaken Lausanne Locarno Lugano Lucerne St. Gallen St. Moritz Zermatt Zurich | Vienna | Paris | bucherer.com

und viele mehr and many more

&+5,67慤᳝ଚ刧𘄩ത𔡥Ѣ㒐ᏖЁᖗԡ㕂ˈ ѻકક䋼ध䍞ˈ᳡Ⅵ⛁啳໛𔉹ˈ┠ℒ⦴䑥੠ৡ 㸼䗝ᢽЄᆠDŽ刧‫ݙ‬偉ጨᅦਬ䗮ᰧ㣅᭛ˈ䚼ߚৃ Փ𑀄Ё᭛᳡ⅥDŽ᥹ফЁ㊁𙅆㘨ᬃҬDŽ CHRIST JEWELLERS AND WATCHMAKERS IN NUREMBERG. Karolinenstraße 6 · Pfannenschmiedsgasse 18 · Franken-Center (Langwasser) CHRIST ᇞѿ𑀗𖠗 0180/5 32 10 98˄ᖋ㊁ᴀഄ㉸𖠗䗮ֵ𗅶𗅥 ᖋ㊁ᴀഄ㉸𖠗䗮ֵ𗅶𗅥 0.14 ⃻‫ܗ‬ ⃻‫ܗ‬/ߚ䩳 ߚ䩳˗ ⿏ࡼ𑀗𖠗𗅶𗅥玀𠙒 0.42 ⃻‫ܗ‬ ⃻‫ܗ‬/ߚ䩳˅ ߚ䩳˅*ଂӋᕙ𖠢 ଂӋᕙ𖠢 ** ⱑ㡆ǃᇣ‫৿ݙ‬⠽⡍ᕕǃӬ㡃ߛ偉

▔垅DŽᖋ㊁ࠊ䗴DŽ CHRIST DIAMONDS 𒥆કDŽ 200 ໮ᆊ CHRIST ϧप刧𗥓Ꮧᖋ㊁ˈ ҹܼᮄᮍᓣᛳফ𙂇⷇儙⅙ www.christ.de

In the mood for fashion?

Then you’ve come to the right place at C&A. Awaiting you here are the latest trends, ranging from sporty to elegant, as well as a truly special shopping experience. We offer our customers a large selection of ladies’, men’s and children’s fashions – of course always of the highest quality and at extremely low prices. visit us: www.canda.com facebook.com/ca Nürnberg Ludwigsplatz 25–27

Вы любите моду? Тогда посетите магазины C&A. В наших торговых центрах вас ожидают товары новейших трендов в любом стиле от спортивного до элегантного. Шоппинг в них станет для вас событием особого рода. У нас вы найдете широкий ассортимент модной женской, мужской и детской одежды – конечно же лучшего качества и по самым привлекательным ценам.

‫هل أنت راغب بآخر الصيحات؟‬ ،‫ ستجدون لدينا أخر صيحات الموضة‬.C&A ‫إذا ستسعد بما تقدمه محلت‬ ‫ وماعليكم إل أن تتمتعوا بالتسوق في‬.‫من ملبس السبور إلى قمة الناقة‬ ‫ لقد عودنا زبائننا الكرام على تشكيلة واسعة من ملبس السيدات‬.‫محلتنا‬ . ‫والرجال والطفال ذات النوعية العالية وبأفضل الثمان‬

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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Германия

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this beautiful medieval German city.

Nuremberg has much to ofer, as our guide on page 44 reveals. Discover the delicious spicy lebkuchen biscuits that are the city’s speciality on page 32; in this issue we also discover the secrets of German sportswear brand Adidas’s success (page 38).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save up to 14.5% when shopping in Germany. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Nuremberg. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

Emma Cheevers @环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

/globalblue

@shopcontent

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

/globalblue

巴黎

Portugal Prague Riga Rimini and Riccione Rome Seoul Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna Vilnius

ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Welcome to Nuremberg

Gothenburg Hamburg Hanover Helsinki Area Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lake Saimaa Lebanon London Madrid Malaysia Milan Munich Nuremberg Oslo Paris

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ILLUSTRATION: OWEN DAVEY

CONTRIBUTORS

Dionne Hélène Graphic designer Dionne Hélène, an artworking assistant at SHOP, has previously worked with the Victoria and Albert Museum and Nike. Dionne, a sneaker enthusiast, reveals the secrets behind the worldwide success of German sportswear brand Adidas in this edition. globalblue.com

Ximena Daneri SHOP’s fashion editor Ximena Daneri studied fashion and textile design in her home city of Buenos Aires before working as an image consultant for TV shows and styling fashion shoots for Para Ti magazine in Argentina. Ximena is an avid photographer.

Owen Davey Owen Davey’s fun, playful style and engaging use of colour made this awardwinning freelance illustrator the perfect choice to create this season’s cover for SHOP Nuremberg. His illustration, which shows an enticing gingerbread house embellished with nuts, fruit and icing, was inspired by our feature on lebkuchen, the delicious spiced treats which are the city’s signature sweet indulgence – read more in our feature on page 32. Owen’s work has been published worldwide and his clients include the New York Times, Time Out and Wired.

Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/ covers.

Ginger Rose Clark Editor and fashion journalist Ginger Rose Clark studied English literature at the University of Glasgow before going on to take an MA in fashion journalism at the London College of Fashion.

Besides writing for a number of publications, she also works as a fashion stylist.

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Owen Davey Contributors Ginger Rose Clark, Maria Kirchen-Hill Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Production assistant Katie Muxworthy Features editor Verity Hogan City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Charlotte Rogers Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Tom Knight

Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Online production assistant Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Aiyang Zou Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

GLOBA L BLU E GER M A N Y Head of commercial Europe/ Latin America Pier Francesco Nervini Head of commercial Central Europe Ronald Christen Marketing sales manager Michael Mauerhoff Sales manager Pino Dufter Global Blue Germany, Vogelsanger Weg 38, 40470 Düsseldorf, info.de@globalblue.com Regional tourist office Tourismus+Congress, Kaiserstrasse 56, 60329 Frankfurt am Main, +49 (0)69 2123 8800, frankfurt-tourismus.de

Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak Commercial artworking intern Kiranjeet Kaur AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Production assistant Sammy Ha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution and partnerships manager Lara Osuna

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published

by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

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CONTENTS

PHOTO: STÉPHANIE KILGAST CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

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P ROD U C T S 18 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Nuremberg this season 20 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories N EWS 28 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Nuremberg 29 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products F E AT U R E S 32 Cover Story: Spice World Delicious lebkuchen biscuits have become synonymous with Nuremberg, as Ginger Rose Clark discovers 38 Game Changer Thanks to cult designs and fashion collaborations, Adidas sportswear has become a wardrobe must-have, reports Dionne Hélène

GU I DE 44 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Nuremberg ESSENTI A LS 54 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S 55 Русский Перевод 59 美文翻译 65 SOU V E N I R 66 The essential item to bring home

Above: spicy lebkuchen biscuits are popular throughout Germany during the festive season

NUREMBERG KÖNIGSTRASSE Welcome to Nuremberg, city of Albrecht Dürer and the home of the world’s best-known Christmas market, which is famous for its tasty gingerbread and bratwurst. At the heart of the Old Town lies the GALERIA Kaufhof department store: five floors of top fashion brands, trendy accessories, stylish sports items, international brands of watches, jewellery, perfumes and leather products, as well as an extensive assortment of household items and home textiles.

Enjoy the excellent service in an atmosphere that makes shopping fun.

If you come from a country outside the EU, you can even enjoy tax-free shopping at GALERIA Kaufhof!

Please scan the QR-code with your smartphone to get more information about your GALERIA store Nuremberg, Königstrasse.

GALERIA Kaufhof... ... makes you fall in love with Germany

GALERIA Kaufhof GmbH, Leonhard-Tietz-Str. 1, 50676 Cologne

galeria-kaufhof.de

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CHECK OUT

WRITE ON The launch of the Montblanc M pen, designed

by Marc Newson, ushers in a new era of design excellence for the maison. This is Montblanc’s frst ever design partnership and Newson’s trademark style, inspired by organic forms, has translated beautifully into this magnifcent writing instrument. As ever, functionality is at the heart of the product.

This has been creatively expressed in the use of a magnet to close the cap and an additional Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 54

snap mechanism to hold it in place. The platinum-plated clip is mounted invisibly into the cap so it does not disrupt the fuidity of the overall design. Newson has stayed true to the Montblanc aesthetic with his choice of the company’s black ‘precious resin’ as the main body material. th Montblanc M fountain pen, €490, Montblanc, Kaiserstrasse 10, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 132 3363, montblanc.com * for map go to page 48

SHOPPING IS BETTER WHEN YOU DO IT TAX FREE.

Join Global Blue for free, explore your city, ďŹ nd the best stores, and save money on everything you buy. globalblue.com/join

20 | P RO D U C T S

GREEN LADY Embrace verdant hues this season with feminine shapes inspired by nature 1

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1. Michael Kors eaux de parfum, 100ml, €103 each, Douglas, Karolinenstrasse 25, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 214 6970, michaelkors.com

3. Swarovski Click ring, €149, Swarovski, Königstrasse 16, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2355 5568, swarovski.com

2. Chanel lipstick, €33, Karstadt, Königstrasse 14, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 213 2994, chanel.de

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 54

4. Cos cardigan, €150, Cos, Königstrasse 4, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2114 7078, cosstores.com

PHOTOS: (5) © HERMÈS/VICENTE SAHUC; (6) © CARTIER/VINCENT WULVERYCK

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5. Hermès plaid scarf, from €2,750, Hermès, Kaiserstrasse 12, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 235540, hermes.com 6. Rotonde de Cartier watch, €24,100, Wempe, Königstrasse 12, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 203581, cartier.com

globalblue.com

7. Acqua Di Parma Colonia powder soap, €31.99, Douglas, Karolinenstrasse 25, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 214 6970, acquadiparma.com

8. Closed skirt, €699, Closed, Kaiserstrasse 40, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 235 0887, closed.de

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BLACK OUT Monochrome outfts are updated by high-tech accessories

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1. L’Occitane Cedrat After-shave Cream Gel, 75ml, €25.50, L’Occitane, Karolinenstrasse 2-4, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 3785 8464, loccitane.com

3. Mykita x Maison Margiela sunglasses, €375, Optik Schmidt, Plobenhofstrasse 6, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 222182, mykita.com

2. Barbour shirt, €129, Frankonia, Josephsplatz 8, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 205520, barbour.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 54

4. Calvin Klein Jeans jeans, €99, Ansons, Karolinenstrasse 31-33, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 236070, calvinklein.com

PHOTOS: (2) BRIAN YOUNG PHOTOGRAPHY; (7) JEPPE SØRENSEN

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5. Canada Goose Brookvale jacket, €385, Breuninger, Karolinenstrasse 34, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 274240, canada-goose.com 6. Omega watch, €10,400, Bucherer, Hefnersplatz 4-6, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 205170, omegawatches.com

globalblue.com

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7. Bang & Olufsen BeoPlay H6 headphones, €399, Bang & Olufsen, Kaiserstrasse 39, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 232683, beoplay.com

8. Victorinox Swiss Army Classic Sport fragrance, €54, Müller, Königstrasse 26, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 205220, victorinox.com

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CASUAL CHIC Jeans and slip-on shoes are perfect for a relaxed day in the city

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1. Guess jeans, €119.50, Guess, Ludwigsplatz 13, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2358 8577, guess.com

2. Mango scarf, €25.99, Mango, Karolinenstrasse 15, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2355 5327, mango.com

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 54

3. Gudrun Sjödén gloves, price on request, Gudrun Sjödén, Josephsplatz 1, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 243717, gudrunsjoden.com

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6. Clarks shoes, €99.95, Clarks, Breite Gasse 80, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2373 9156, clarks.com 4. Thomas Sabo watch, €298, Thomas Sabo, Königstrasse 2, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 237 3010, thomassabo.com

globalblue.com

5. Chanel Illusion d’Ombre Rouge Gorge eyeshadow, €31, Douglas, Karolinenstrasse 25, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 214 6970, chanel.de

7. Marc O’Polo coat, €299.90, Marc O’Polo, Hefnersplatz 7, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 235 5844, marc-o-polo.com

Von bis In unserer Parfümerie fnden Sie die EXKLUSIVSTEN DÜFTE aus über 100 MARKEN zu den BESTEN PREISEN.

You will fnd the MOST EXCLUSIVE FRAGRANCES from over 100 BRANDS at the BEST PRICES in our perfume department. 在我们的香水店中,您可以找到 最独特的香 最独特的香水,超过 100 个品牌,而且价格最优惠。 ,而且

Ihre Müller-Fliliale mit Parfümerie fnden Sie hier:

You can fnd your Müller store with perfume department here:

Müller-Fliliale 香水店地址如下， 恭候您的光顾：

Lorenzkirche, Königstrasse 26 Frankencenter, Glogauer Strasse 36-38 Mercadocenter, Äußere Bayreuther Strasse 80

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SHOP WINDOW

STEP INTO TIMBERLAND Timberland’s store in Nuremberg is located on Königstrasse, one of the city’s most exclusive shopping streets. The store is part of the brand’s recent expansion in Germany, where it has launched four new fagship stores.

Visitors to the Nuremberg store can fnd the latest men’s, women’s and kids’ collections of shoes, accessories and clothing. The brand’s latest store concept embraces both past and Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 54

present to transport Timberland’s history into a contemporary setting. The concept also refects the brand’s DNA with its strong industrial aesthetic. Timberland, which is headquartered in New Hampshire in the US, was previously the Abington Shoe Company, and took its present name in 1978. The brand’s outdoor-inspired lifestyle items are made using environmentally responsible techniques and fabrics. fm Timberland, Königstrasse 2, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2164 5138, timberland.com * for map go to page 51

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TECH HEAVEN Tech-lovers should not miss a visit to electronic specialist Conrad. With 25 stores across Germany, including one in Nuremberg, the brand ofers more than 600,000 products, undoubtedly one of the widest ranges in the country. Whether you’re looking for small accessories, a new computer or the latest communications technology, Conrad should be your frst port of call. Have a chat with one of its resident experts and you might just fnd that perfect gadget you never even knew existed. mkh Conrad, Fürther Strasse 212, 90429 Nuremberg, +49 (0)9604 408789, conrad.de

SAY IT WITH DIAMONDS Inspired by the style of the 1920s, Bucherer presents its latest collection of fne jewellery, Vive Elle. The art deco-infuenced range comprises around 20 pieces, including earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings. Featuring exquisite materials such as white gold, platinum and diamonds, the collection fuses Bucherer’s heritage of excellence in craftsmanship with the zest for life that characterised the Roaring Twenties. The distinctive bracelet and earrings pictured are crafted from white gold set with sparkling diamonds, designed to match the collection’s fne-linked necklace. Founded in 1888, Bucherer is one of Europe’s longestestablished and most respected specialists in the felds of watches and jewellery. hl Bucherer, Hefnersplatz 4-6, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 205170, bucherer.com * for map go to page 49 globalblue.com

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LOOKING GOOD When Herr Menig opened in September 2012, Nuremberg’s style-conscious glasseswearers rejoiced. Located in one of the most fashionable areas of Nuremberg, the store stocks brands such as Andy Wolf, Kilsgaard, and Lunettes Kollektion. Owner Michael Menig frmly believes that everyone can fnd their perfect pair of glasses, and he is on a mission to help clients do just that. The store also ofers exclusive frames from small manufacturers, allowing quality to shine through and eschewing fashy logos. All products come with a two-year warranty. th Herr Menig, Obere Wörthstrasse 5, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2406 2314, herrmenig.de * for map go to page 48

PHOTO: HERR MENIG

BASICALLY BRILLIANT

Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 54

Scandinavian style has always embraced the ‘less is more’ ethos, but this season Swedish brand Cos has taken minimalism a step further, stripping back its menswear collection to focus solely on the essentials. Collarless grey wool blazers are held together by metal clips, while outerwear details are kept hidden, as in a midnight blue hooded dufel coat concealing a removable inner technical jacket. This allows the simple, classic materials – including felted wool, padded white cotton poplin and Japaneseinspired cloth – to take centre stage. Simplicity also dominates when it comes to accessories, with winter sandals in grey felted wool, traditional black leather derby lace-ups and a drawstring gym bag with matching black leather gloves, rounding of a stunning collection. rp Cos, Königstrasse 4, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2114 7078, cosstores.com * for map go to page 51

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EFFORTLESS ELEGANCE When Thomas Schaefer founded the René Lezard label in 1978, he did so with the idea of creating a modern, design-led premium brand for men and women that used only the highest quality materials. This philosophy remains at the core of the latest autumn/winter collection.

In muted colours and with a relaxed silhouette, the pieces are elegant and stylish without being trend-driven. Warm fabrics such as cashmere and wool are used throughout the collection, giving the clothes an invitingly tactile look.

Those seeking dressier items won’t be disappointed, as there are plenty of silk blouses, along with statement coats in foral jacquard. th René Lezard, Kaiserstrasse 18, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 205 3730, rene-lezard.com * for map go to page 48

PHOTO: (LEFT) MATTHIAS HOFFMANN

ETERNALLY STYLISH This delicate bracelet, crafted in 18-carat rose gold and featuring a brilliant-cut diamond, is one of the latest additions to Wempe’s By Kim Helioro collection. Inspired by the idea of rings as a symbol of eternity, the twisted band which forms the focus of each Helioro creation is formed of nine strands of gold united into one loop. Family business Wempe is steeped in history yet forward-thinking, constantly striving for innovation. Modern yet classic pieces like this bracelet, stunning and luxurious but suitable for everyday wear, show the brand’s ability to know exactly what women want in their jewellery collections. hl Wempe, Königstrasse 12, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 203581, wempe.com * for map go to page 51 globalblue.com

SPICE WORLD Delicious lebkuchen biscuits have become synonymous with the city of Nuremberg, as Ginger Rose Clark discovers

PHOTO: STADT NÜRNBERG/CHRISTINE DIERENBACH

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elisenlebkuchen was created in the 18th century by a Nuremberg baker, using only the most precious ingredients, including copious amounts of ground nuts and high-quality spices, to cure his ailing daughter Elisabeth of an illness. To this day, elisenlebkuchen must contain a minimum of 25% nuts and less than 10% four. Anna Eckstein, who runs local bakery Lebküchnerei Eckstein, afrms that the elisenlebkuchen is a hallmark of true quality.

Many lebkuchen bakeries are family businesses that use secret recipes handed down the generations Lebkuchen has become such an important part of Nuremberg’s culinary landscape that a privileged handful of bakeries working within the city’s boundaries have been awarded European Union protected geographical indication status, acknowledging their products’ traditional and unique properties.

In many cases, lebkuchen is a family business, with each bakery creating its own version according to a secret recipe passed down from generation to generation, and selling this to its own set of loyal followers. As Eckstein explains, ‘Our client base is a local, regular one who looks for quality and an artisanal approach. We have a niche market and aren’t in competition with the industrial producers.’

Previous page: almond-studded lebkuchen Above (from left): historical image of bakers at the Ferdinand Wolff lebkuchen factory in 1959; samples from Lebküchnerei Eckstein

PHOTOS: (LEFT) SIMON MÜLLER CC-BY-SA; (RIGHT) BISCHOF & BROEL

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t’s the beginning of December, the temperatures have dropped to zero and the daylight hours have waned. Despite the wintry feel, the Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt – Christmas market – radiates a warm glow, as soft light emanates from the red and white painted wooden chalets, and the enticing smell of spicy mulled wine wafts through the air.

It’s Advent and tradition reigns supreme at the famous Nuremberg market. The stalls all ofer traditional local products, from the cute Zwetschgenmännle fgures, made from dried prunes with walnut heads, to the ubiquitous bratwurst sausage. However, perhaps most importantly, the market also features mouthwatering stacks of lebkuchen biscuits.

Lebkuchen is a type of gingerbread that is consumed across Germany during the festive season. Nuremberg’s lebkuchen is now so famous that it has become a symbol of the city.

Lebkuchen’s signifcance dates back to the Middle Ages, when its production in monasteries was frst ofcially recorded in the 14th century. The densely forested area surrounding Nuremberg was referred to as ‘the German Empire’s bee garden’ at this time, because it yielded such an abundance of honey.

This honey was soon used a sweetener for various products and, when combined with the cocktail of spices – including cloves, cinnamon, anise, nutmeg and ginger – that merchants were bringing back from their expeditions across the globe, lebkuchen was created.

You’d be mistaken if you think that Nuremberg lebkuchen is no diferent from that of other areas of Germany. Nuremberg boasts arguably the most noble of all lebkuchen: the elisenlebkuchen. Legend has it that the

Above (clockwise from top): Nuremberg Christmas market; lebkuchen is popular throughout Germany during the festive season; elisenlebkuchen must contain a minimum of 25% nuts

PHOTO: STÉPHANIE KILGAST CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

PHOTO: TURKU GINGERBREAD CC BY 2.0

PHOTO: © STADT NUERNBERG/BIRGIT FUDER

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PHOTO: STADT NĂœRNBERG/CHRISTINE DIERENBACH

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Above: handmade lebkuchen is popular at the Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt

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The quintessential taste of Nuremberg is a product all its makers take pride in

PHOTO: SÖNKE RAHN CC BY-SA 3.0

Another such business is the Gstatter bakery, now run by the third generation of the founding family. Harald Gstatter, grandson of the founder, says, ‘The lebkuchen from bakeries such as ours stands out because it is made to our own secret recipe using quality ingredients, and because it is freshly baked.’

Lebkuchen from bakeries such as Gstatter and Lebküchnerei Eckstein is freshly made each day and contains no artifcial ingredients such as preservatives.

At Bäckerei Gstatter, 8,000 to 10,000 lebkuchen are made by hand each season.

Gstatter says, ‘We usually produce lebkuchen from October to Christmas but, if the weather is cold and rainy in September, we can start earlier, as people fancy lebkuchen if it’s cold!’

Lebkuchen producers range from small

family-run bakers to large-scale manufacturing operations. Of the latter, Lebkuchen Schmidt is one of Nuremberg’s largest and best-known.

The company’s reputation is so widespread that it now produces around three million lebkuchen a day during peak season. These are then sent out via mail order to customers around the world, as well as being sold in the brand’s 130 seasonal stores.

Juergen Merkel, export manager at Lebkuchen Schmidt, says, ‘When you think about Nuremberg, lebkuchen comes to mind and so we take pride in producing excellent products which are known and loved all over the world.’

This sentiment is clearly present whatever the size of the bakery. All lebkuchen makers share a strong sense of pride in their creations.

A tour of the city soon reveals that Nuremberg’s lebkuchen is more than just a variety of gingerbread. Whether you prefer lebkuchen studded with almonds, dunked in chocolate or sugar-coated, it is the quintessential taste of Nuremberg lebkuchen-eckstein.de, baeckerei-gstatter.de, lebkuchen-schmidt.com

Above: Lebkuchen Schmidt is one of the city’s largest and best-known manufacturers

GAME CHANGER Thanks to cult designs and fashion collaborations, Adidas’s sportswear is no longer just for sport. Dionne Hélène reveals how its sneakers and clothing suddenly became wardrobe must-haves

PHOTO: ALEX PUSCH

I

n recent years, Adidas has been leading the charge when it comes to blurring the lines between sportswear and fashion.

The German label has always been a leading supplier of sports footwear and clothing, but it is its passion for innovation that has made the brand an internationally recognised industry pioneer.

Adidas’s fashion credentials are impressive; recent collaborators include establishment heavyweights such as Stella McCartney, Yohji Yamamoto, Raf Simons and Rick Owens, as well as Kolor’s Junichi Abe and hip-hop mogul Kanye West. Each has brought his or her own signature style to the partnership, which, combined with Adidas’s sportswear expertise, has resulted in something special.

By incorporating the techniques and materials 57 /

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that each designer would favour on the catwalk, Adidas’s pieces have been elevated from the sportswear sphere to become highly desirable garments in their own right.

Practicality and simplicity lie at the heart of this evolution, ensuring that Adidas’s core values remain strong, whether the target is the street or the sports hall. The brand is proud of its ‘commitment to quality and passion for sport’, which ensures that every Adidas collection is tailored to provide comfort and performance wherever it is being worn.

With this in mind, the brand’s decision to work with some of the world’s most respected fashion designers is less surprising; Yohji Yamamoto, for instance, has worked with Adidas on its Y-3 line for more than a decade.

Yamamoto is considered to be a master Previous page: Adidas Y-3 line by Yohji Yamamoto Above (from left): designer Yohji Yamamoto; three designs from the Y-3 collecton for Adidas

PHOTOS: (RIGHT) ALEX PUSCH

PHOTO: KOICHI INAKOSHI

40 | F E AT U R E S

S H O P | 41

tailor, pushing fashion boundaries since the 1970s, and his bold, experimental designs for Adidas are no exception. The designer’s most celebrated silhouettes, including the Qasa, combine high-performance composite fabrics with vibrant uppers.

The success of its Yamamoto collaboration has encouraged Adidas to take more risks with other avant-garde design talents. Rick Owens’ designs for the brand are considered the most experimental creations yet, incorporating clean monotone colour palettes and strong, fuid lines reminiscent of modern architecture.

Owens’ work has attracted a new generation of sneaker fans who appreciate form and function as well as fashion.

Adidas has long championed the creation of garments that transcend traditional boundaries

Adidas sneakers are regularly spotted on the front row at fashion weeks of what sportswear should look like. Stella McCartney is the designer who has done the most to help efect this change, especially in womenswear. Her design aesthetic is feminine, romantic and fattering. Fabrics that let the body breathe and move with ease are combined with striking patterns to great efect.

Above (from lef): Adidas by Stella McCartney; Rick Owens for Adidas, both autumn/winter 2015/16

42 | F E AT U R E S

Above (all): Adidas Supercolor autumn/winter 2015/16

S H O P | 43

Collaborations with the world’s finest fashion designers give Adidas sportswear added cachet

Above (both): Adidas Stan Smith, autumn/winter 2015/16

Fashion often takes inspiration from the past, and Adidas has plenty of its own history to mine. The brand’s most renowned style, the Superstar, has become a timeless classic, loved by sneaker enthusiasts and fashion editors alike.

Created for playing basketball, the style was launched in the late 1960s and popularised by NBA legend Kareem Abdul-Jabbar. Its versatile design, suitable for wear both on and of court, was revolutionary.

Since then, the shoe has been reinvented several times over and even featured in a 1986 song by American hip-hop group Run-DMC called My Adidas. The members of the group were known for wearing only Adidas, and made history by becoming the frst musical group to be ofcially endorsed by a sportswear brand.

The Superstar is surprisingly robust with a hardened shell-toe to provide additional protection. A design revamp in the 1980s brought the shoe to the attention of the skateboarding community, who were soon hooked by its tough exterior and the durability of its rubber outsole. The style has been reinvented again recently; Pharrell Williams teamed up with Adidas to create the Supercolor, an exclusive version of the Superstar available in 50 colours.

The Stan Smith is another classic style that has been adopted by the fashion community.

Designed for its namesake, tennis player Stan Smith, to wear on court, the shoe has remained virtually unchanged since its release in the 1970s. The shoe’s understated aesthetic makes it a universal style staple which complements bold directional outfts as well as simpler everyday ensembles. Both it and the Superstar have been spotted on the front row at various fashion weeks.

The story of the Superstar and the Stan Smith demonstrates perfectly the way sportswear has evolved to become part of the luxury fashion sector. Sneakers are now regarded as an everyday wardrobe staple, and as Adidas continues to collaborate with the world’s fnest fashion designers its clothing is acquiring a similar cachet, proving once and for all that style and substance aren’t mutually exclusive adidas.com

44 | G U I D E

GUIDE

PHOTO: STEFAN HUNDHAMMER CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Nuremberg with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a sophisticated menswear boutique to the former home of artist Albrecht Dürer. Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team.

A GLIMPSE OF NUREMBERG Above: the city’s impressive castle

46 | G U I D E

NUREMBERG ALBRECHT-DÜRER-HAUS

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S H O P | 47

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SHOP’S HIGHLIGHTS 1

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Timberland Kit yourself out for the winter months at Timberland’s new store.

Timberland, Königstrasse 2, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2164 5138, timberland.com featured on page 28

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Cos Stock up on chic basics, a year-round essential, at Scandinavian fashion brand Cos. Cos, Königstrasse 4, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2114 7078, cosstores.com featured on page 30

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Herr Menig Stylish spectacle wearers will be impressed with the optical offering at Herr Menig.

Herr Menig, Obere Wörthstrasse 5, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 2406 2314, herrmenig.de featured on page 30

Lebküchnerei Eckstein Sample some delicious sweet treats at Lebküchnerei Eckstein.

Lebküchnerei Eckstein, Maxfeldstrasse 69, 90409 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 354155, lebkuchen-eckstein.de featured on page 32

*

48 | G U I D E

ALBRECHT-DÜRERHAUS

updated since 2010 to include digital exhibits.

Visitors are encouraged to look around Dürer’s workshop, where printmaking techniques are regularly demonstrated, and to admire the artist’s paintings, woodcuts and etchings.

Albrecht-Dürer-Haus, Albrecht-Dürer-Strasse 39, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 231 2568, museums.nuremberg.de * for map go to page 46

Discover the life and work of artist Albrecht Dürer, one of Nuremberg’s most famous residents and a prominent fgure in the German Renaissance. Dürer’s former home is located in the Old Town, close to the city’s castle. The house has been a museum dedicated to the artist since 1871, and has been

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UNION GLASHÜTTE The new men’s Belisar chronograph from Union Glashütte combines the latest technology with a retro yet sporty look.

Thoughtful design details include a rounded dial in cream, and a tachymeter scale, chronograph hand and seconds-hand tip which are all in red. This timepiece is waterresistant up to 100 metres and houses a

mechanical chronograph movement with up to 60 hours of power reserve. The watch is available with a versatile brown leather strap (pictured) and also comes with a black dial and black leather strap, or with a stainless steel bracelet.

Christ, Karolinenstrasse 6, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 241 8651, union-glasshuette.com * for map go to page 51

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E S P R IT ● CO L LO ● BÄR SEUM ● ● A& S M A X IM G E OX IL IA N ● ULL ● A POP KEN T R IU M ● MEX PH ● X DM DR OGE ● TA M M A R K R IE A R IS T● ● CL A RKS RENO ● ● ECCO FÄ R BER ● RUN STR NERS P O IN T A SS E LEIS ER ● A&S GOL DHA NDE LGES ELL SCH AFT ● ● FIE LMA NN CRÄ MER ●

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HUGO BOSS For autumn/winter 2015/16, Boss menswear is inspired by sophisticated winter holiday destinations – think Aspen, Colorado, or St Moritz, Switzerland. As such, the looks refect outdoorsy elegance.

From padded coats to pure wool trousers, even the warmest layers are cut close to the body for a fattering ft. True to form, materials are of the highest quality and range from merino wool and mohair to the fnest cashmere. The colour palette is similarly refned, sticking to shades such as granite and glacier blue with just a hint of brick red.

Wöhrl, Ludwigsplatz 12, 90403 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 13300, hugoboss.com * for map go to page 49

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Shopping Centre/Mall

S H O P | 51

Königstrasse & Bahnhofsplatz Fleischbrücke

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Tourist Information

52 | G U I D E

INGOLSTADT VILLAGE DON’T MISS…

Shopping packages Various packages are available at the Village and can be booked via the Village website. Services can include: • Return tickets from central Nuremberg to the Village on the Shopping Express® luxury coach service • A €25 Ingolstadt Village Shopping Card to be spent at a boutique of your choice in the Village • An exclusive gift • Lunch with small soft drink at Stiftl restaurant in the Village Five-Star Services

Ingolstadt Village, located less than an hour from both Munich and Nuremberg, plays host to more than 110 luxury brand boutiques. Both German and international brands are represented, with savings of up to 60% available throughout the Village. Ingolstadt Village’s design takes inspiration from its surroundings; Bavaria’s evocative 19th-century textile mills are refected in its warm colour schemes and art nouveau motifs.

Ingolstadt Village, Otto-Hahn-Strasse 1, 85055 Ingolstadt, +49 (0)841 886 3100, ingolstadtvillage.com Opening times Monday-Saturday: 10am-8pm Sunday and public holidays: closed

globalblue.com

The Village ofers a range of VIP services including: • • • • •

Free Wi-Fi Dog kennels A personal shopper on request Children’s play area Electric car charging station

S H O P | 53

PERFECT DAY 10am

Theresa Harold, SHOP’s fashion and news assistant, describes her perfect day at Ingolstadt Village

HOW TO GET THERE By car From Nuremberg, take the A9 autobahn to junction IngolstadtNord (exit 61), direction Ingolstadt-Ost and from the exit follow the signs to Ingolstadt Village.

Start your day at Rosenthal.

One of the world’s leading producers of contemporary porcelain, glass and tableware, the brand is known for its high standards.

By train 12pm

6pm

Take a break at the cosy Stiftl restaurant, which serves typically Bavarian fare such as pork medallions in pepper sauce with vegetables and potato gratin.

End your shopping trip by admiring the accessories on ofer at Liebeskind Berlin.

The company is known for its innovative designs and high quality.

2pm

4pm

Christ’s 150 years of experience is evident in its exquisite fne jewellery collection, ofered alongside a range of timepieces by international brands.

Prepare for winter weather by picking up an outdoor jacket from Wellensteyn. The label’s quality, design and functionality are among the best.

Ingolstadt’s central station has an InterCity train connection and is the main hub for trains to Nuremberg. There are regular connecting coach services to Ingolstadt Village from Ingolstadt-Nord station and Ingolstadt central station.

By bus From Ingolstadt Central Station, take bus line 10 or 11 to ZOB/ Harderstrasse, and then change to line 20.

By Shopping Express® The Shopping Express® luxury coach service runs from central Nuremburg to Ingolstadt Village on the frst Saturday of the month.

54

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

2. Claim

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.

Spend a minimum of €25 and save up to 14.5% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

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Nuremberg Airport: Der Deutsches Reisebüro, Arrival A, Customs Departures Munich Airport - Franz Josef Strauss: Global Blue, Terminal 1, Departures B, Level 4, opposite Customs and next to Royal Jordanian Airline Global Blue, Terminal 2, Departures, Level 4, opposite Quick Check-in counter 415 Global Blue, Terminal 2, Transit, Level 5, behind security and passport control, opposite gate H28 59 / 63

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55

TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 32: Spice World

Мир специй

На дворе декабрь, температура упала до нуля, а дни стали заметно короче. Но, несмотря на морозную свежесть, рождественский рынок Christkindlesmarkt в Нюрнберге сияет теплыми красками, а воздух насыщен нежным ароматом глинтвейна, исходящим от красно-белых деревянных ярмарочных домиков. Как раз в эти дни отмечается период Рождественского поста – Адвент, и эта традиция не могла обойти Нюрнбергский рынок стороной. На прилавках предлагают традиционные деликатесы, от съедобных человечков Zwetschgenmännle, сделанных из чернослива и грецкого ореха, до знаменитых сосисок «братвурст». И, пожалуй, одним из главных символов ярмарки считаются аппетитные Нюрнбергские пряники, именуемые «лебкухен». В период рождества их можно встретить в большом количестве по всей Германии. Необычайная популярность Нюрнбергских пряников привела к тому, что они стали своеобразным символом города. История их появления уходит своими корнями во времена Средневековья, когда производство пряников было официально зафиксировано в местных монастырях в 14 веке. Покрытая густым лесом местность вокруг Нюрнберга в то время называлась «Пчелиным садом немецкой империи», благодаря большому количеству пчеловодческих хозяйств. Мед широко использовался в качестве подсластителя для ряда кондитерских изделий. В ходе одного из экспериментов его смешали с привезенными из далека специями, такими как гвоздика, корица, анис, мускатный орех и имбирь, это и привело к созданию пряника, дошедшего globalblue.com

PHOTO: STADT NÜRNBERG/CHRISTINE DIERENBACH

Джинджер Роуз Кларк рассказывает о вкусных пряниках «Lebkuchen», которые стали синонимом города Нюрнберга

до наших времен. Если вы считаете, что Нюрнбергский пряник ничем не отличается от остальных пряников, произведенных на территории Германии, то вы глубоко ошибаетесь. Именно в Нюрнберге выпекают самый примечательный вид пряников – «elisenlebkuchen». Согласно легенде, этот вид сладостей был создан в 18 веке одним из нюрнбергских пекарей, чтобы исцелить тяжелобольную дочь Элизабет от болезни, которая уже погубила его жену. Для приготовления пряника были использованы самые лучшие ингредиенты, большое количество арахиса и высококачественные специи. В современном рецепте «elisenlebkuchen» значится, что изделие должно содержать минимум 25% орехов и менее 10% муки. Анна Экштайн, заведующая местной пекарней Lebküchnerei Eckstein, утверждает, что «elisenlebkuchen» является эталоном настоящего качества. Нюрнбергские пряники настолько прочно вошли в местные кулинарные традиции, что ряд городских пекарен даже попал под особый протекторат Европейского Союза, а их традиции производства были признаны уникальными. В большинстве случаев производством

PHOTO: SÖNKE RAHN CC BY-SA 3.0

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пряников занимаются частные пекарни, каждая из которых претендует на оригинальность своих рецептов, передающихся из поколения в поколение, и имеет своих постоянных покупателей. Экштайн поясняет: «В основном наши покупатели это местные жители, которые ценят качество и традиционное мастерство. Наша продукция особенная, рассчитанная на узкий круг потребителей, поэтому мы не конкурируем с массовыми производителями». Похожий подход можно наблюдать у пекарни Gstatter, находящейся во владении третьего поколения семьи основателей. «Пряники из нашей пекарни отличаются от всех остальных, поскольку для их приготовления был задействован наш фирменный рецепт и отборные ингредиенты, а еще, потому что они у нас всегда только свежие», – говорит Харальд Гштаттер, внук основателя. Пряники в таких пекарнях, как Gstatter и Lebküchnerei Eckstein всегда свежеиспеченные и не содержат консервантов. За сезон в пекарне Gstatter вручную выпекается от 8 до 10 тысяч пряников. Гштаттер говорит: «Обычно мы начинаем выпечку пряников в октябре и заканчиваем на Рождество, но если сентябрь выдается дождливым, то мы можем начать и раньше, globalblue.com

ведь когда на улице холодно людям хочется пряников!». Среди производителей Нюрнбергских пряников можно встретить как частных предпринимателей, так и массовых производителей. В число последних входит компания Lebkuchen Schmidt – одна из крупнейших и наиболее известных в своем деле. Спрос на ее продукцию настолько велик, что при наступлении сезона компания выпускает до трех миллионов пряников ежедневно. «Когда речь заходит о Нюрнберге, то первое что приходит в голову – это пряник, поэтому мы очень гордимся нашей продукцией, которую знают и любят по всему миру», – говорит Юрген Меркель, менеджер по экспорту в Lebkuchen Schmidt. Гордость за свою продукцию присутствует в каждой пекарне, вне зависимости от ее размеров. Стоит лишь немного пройтись по городу и у вас не останется сомнений, что Нюрнбергский пряник это всего лишь разновидность обычного пряника. Какой бы пряник вы ни выбрали, миндальный, шоколадный или в сахарной пудре, он все равно будет нести в себе неповторимый аромат нюрнбергской традиции. lebkuchen-eckstein.de, baeckerei-gstatter.de, lebkuchen-schmidt.com

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38: Game Changer

Законодатели технологий Благодаря культовым моделям и модным коллаборациям, продукция Adidas вышла далеко за рамки спорта. Дионн Хелен рассказывает о том, как кроссовки и одежда бренда внезапно стали обязательной вещью в гардеробе

PHOTO: KOICHI INAKOSHI

В последние годы Adidas заметнее всех остальных компаний преуспел в размытии границ между спортивной одеждой и высокой модой. Этот немецкий бренд всегда был лидером в производстве спортивной обуви и одежды, но именно любовь к инновациям помогла ему стать пионером своей индустрии и добиться международного признания. Достижения Adidas в области моды впечатляют; в последних коллаборациях марки принимали участие такие тяжеловесы модной индустрии, как Стелла Маккартни,

Ёдзи Ямамото, Раф Симонс и Рик Оуэнс, а также дизайнер Kolor Юничи Абэ и хип-хоп певец Канье Уэст. Каждый из них принес свои оригинальные идеи, которые в сочетании с непревзойденными технологиями Adidas вылились в нечто необыкновенное. Инженеры марки соединили воедино материалы и детали, которые, по мнению дизайнеров, лучше всего подходили бы для показа на подиуме, и в один миг спортивная одежда превратилась в изящные наряды от кутюр. Практичность и простота являются основополагающими принципами этой трансформации, гарантируя неизменность ключевых традиций самого бренда, и не важно идет ли речь об уличной моде или обуви для спортзала. Adidas гордится своей «приверженностью качеству и страстью к миру спорта», а это значит, что каждая коллекция марки будет обеспечивать необходимый уровень комфорта и производительности, независимо от сферы применения. Учитывая этот факт, не удивительно, что бренд намерен сотрудничать с самыми уважаемыми дизайнерами мира; к примеру, Ёдзи Ямамото и Adidas более десяти лет провели над совместной работой по выпуску серии Y-3. Ямамото начал покорять индустрию моды еще в 1970-х годах, и его смелые, новаторские проекты для Adidas не являются исключением. Пользующиеся наибольшим успехом изделия дизайнера, включая модель Qasa, сочетают высокопроизводительные композитные материалы и яркий дизайн. Успех сотрудничества с Ямамото воодушевил Adidas пойти еще дальше и начать совместную работу с

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другими современными дизайнерамиавангардистами. Коллаборация с Риком Оуэнсом на сегодняшний день считается самой экспериментальной и смелой. В ней соединилась чистая монотонная палитра и заметные плавные линии, напоминающие современную архитектуру. Работа Оуэнса обратила на себя внимание новое поколение поклонников кроссовок, ценящих форму и практичность наравне со стилем.

Adidas уже давно стал лидером в создании тканей, которые выходят за традиционные рамки представления о спортивной одежде. Дизайнер Стелла Маккартни сыграла в этом процессе одну из первоочередных ролей, особенно, что касается женской одежды. Ее эстетика необыкновенно женственна и романтична. Ткани, позволяющие телу свободно дышать и двигаться, для полноты эффекта сочетаются с поразительными и необычайно яркими узорами. Модная индустрия знает много примеров, когда источником вдохновения служит богатое наследие самого бренда, и Аdidas тому не исключение. Одна из самых популярных серий кроссовок бренда – Superstar – стала своего рода классикой, и завоевала море поклонников, как среди любителей уличной одежды, так и среди редакторов модных журналов. Серия была создана в конце 1960-х годов для баскетболистов и стала популярной, благодаря легенде NBA – Кариму Абдул-

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Джаббару. Универсальный дизайн, который сделал кроссовки подходящими для использования как на площадке, так и вне ее, был просто революционным. С тех пор эту модель неоднократно совершенствовали и дополняли, а в 1986 году она даже была упомянута в песне «My Adidas» в исполнении американской хип-хоп группы Run-DMC. Музыканты данного коллектива были известны тем, что носили исключительно фирменную одежду Adidas, и вошли в историю, как первая музыкальная группа, получившая официальную поддержку от спортивного бренда. Модель кроссовок Superstar поразительно прочная и имеет уплотнение на носке для дополнительной защиты ноги. Новая модификация данной модели в 1980-х годах получила особую популярность в среде скейтбордистов, которые оценили прочную конструкцию и долговечность резиновой подошвы. Совсем недавно модель подверглась очередному обновлению; Фаррелл Уильямс совместно с Adidas выпустил модель Supercolor, – эксклюзивную версию Superstar, доступную в 50 цветовых оттенках.

Stan Smith – еще одна модель, получившая широкое одобрение модных экспертов. Выпущенная специально для теннисиста Стэнли Смита и предназначенная для игры в теннис, эта модель оставалась практически неизменной с момента ее выпуска в 1970 году.

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Сдержанная эстетика кроссовок придает им черты универсального стиля, позволяя использовать как в профессиональном спорте, так и на улице. Обе модели были неоднократно замечены на зрителях, сидящих на первых рядах модных шоупоказов. История моделей Superstar и Stan Smith наглядно демонстрирует тот путь, который прошла спортивная одежда, чтобы стать частью роскошной моды. Сегодня кроссовки считаются неотъемлемой частью повседневного гардероба, и по мере того, как Adidas продолжает сотрудничество с мировыми дизайнерами, коллекции бренда приобретают соответствующий статус, доказывая, что стиль и содержание не исключают друг друга. adidas.com 54: When You Shop Te World, Shop Tax Free

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32: Spice World 香料世界 美味可口的胡椒蜂蜜饼已经成为了纽伦堡的代名 词，Ginger Rose Clark带您一同品尝 十二月初的时候，气温已经降到了零度，白昼时间也 短了许多。尽管冬日寒意肆虐，纽伦堡的圣诞集市 却洋溢着重重暖意：漆成红色和白色的小木屋散发 出柔和的灯光，空气里弥漫了香料酒辛辣而迷人的 气味。基督降临节到了，著名的纽伦堡集市上到处都 是传统的印记。从用李子干和胡桃仁做成的可爱的 Zwetschgenmännle馅饼小人，到无处不在的德式 香肠，大小摊位上摆满了各式各样的传统当地特产。 然而，最重要的或许还要数那些令人垂涎欲滴的胡 椒蜂蜜饼。 胡椒蜂蜜饼是姜饼的一种，每逢节庆时分，就在 德国各地大卖特卖。而纽伦堡的胡椒蜂蜜饼如今更 是远近驰名，成为这座城市的一大标志。 胡椒蜂蜜饼的历史可追溯至中古时期，14世纪 第一次出现了有关修道院生产胡椒饼的正式记录。 在当时，由于盛产蜂蜜，纽伦堡附近郁郁苍苍的森林 地带被称作“德意志帝国的蜜蜂花园”。这些蜂蜜很 快就作为甜料被用于各种产品；与此同时，远走全球 各地的商人们带回了丁香、肉桂、茴芹、肉豆蔻和生 姜等等香料，并将这些香料和蜂蜜结合在一起，胡椒

PHOTOS: (TOP) BISCHOF & BROEL; (BOTTOM) STÉPHANIE KILGAST CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

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蜂蜜饼就这样诞生了。 如果您以为纽伦堡的胡椒蜂蜜饼和德国其他地 区生产的没什么两样，那可就大错特错了。纽伦堡特 产胡椒蜂蜜饼当中最赫赫有名的或许就是伊丽森姜 饼（elisenlebkuchen）。据民间传说，这种姜饼是18 世纪一位面包师发明的。他的女儿伊丽莎白遗传了 母亲身上的顽疾，为了替女儿治病，他严格选配最名 贵的原料（大量磨碎后的坚果和优质香料），制成了 后来的伊丽森姜饼。他的做法一直延续至今，现在的 伊丽森姜饼一定会含有不少于25%的坚果和不多于 10%的面粉。当地点心铺Lebküchnerei Eckstein的 经营者Anna Eckstein肯定地说，伊丽森姜饼的绝 佳品质值得信任。 胡椒蜂蜜饼已经成为了纽伦堡美食当中的一道 亮丽风景，许多有幸在城中经营的点心铺都荣获欧 盟地理标志保护认证，这也说明了其产品身上的传 统特色与独特标识。许多人把胡椒蜂蜜饼当作家族 生意来经营，每一家点心铺都有一份代代相传的秘 密配方，他们根据配方烹制出各不相同的胡椒蜂蜜 饼；每一家店铺也都有着属于自己的忠实追随者。正 如Eckstein所说， “我们的顾客群大都是寻求一流品 质和手工制作的本地常客。我们经营小众市场，不必 与大型生产商苦苦竞争。” Gstatter点心铺是另一个这样的商家，现由创 始人家族的第三代传人掌柜。创始人的孙子Harald Gstatter说， “像我们家这样的点心铺做的胡椒蜂蜜 饼之所以能脱颖而出，是因为我们按照秘传配方， 严选优质原料，而且我们卖的姜饼都是新鲜出炉 的。”Gstatter和Lebküchnerei Eckstein这类点 心铺的胡椒蜂蜜饼都是每日新鲜烘烤，不含任何防 腐剂。 在Gstatter点心铺，每个季度都有8000至 10000份手工胡椒蜂蜜饼出炉。Gstatter说， “我们 通常在十月至圣诞节期间制作胡椒蜂蜜饼，但如果 九月寒冷多雨的话，我们也可以早些开工，因为天气 一冷，人们就想吃胡椒蜂蜜饼！” 胡椒蜂蜜饼的生产商既有小型家族点心铺， 也有大型加工厂。说到后者，Lebkuchen Schmidt 就是纽伦堡规模最大、最有名的厂商之一。这家 公司可谓是家喻户晓，在旺季每天都要出炉近三 百万份胡椒蜂蜜饼。这些胡椒蜂蜜饼被邮寄至世 界各地的顾客，也有一部分在130间品牌时令商店 销售。Lebkuchen Schmidt的出口经理 Juergen Merkel表示， “当你想到纽伦堡，胡椒蜂蜜饼就会映 入脑海。能生产在世界范围内都备受赞誉与青睐的 优质产品，我们感到非常自豪。” 大大小小的点心铺显然都深有同感。所有的胡 椒蜂蜜饼生产商都深深为他们的产品感到骄傲。到 城里走一走您就会发现，纽伦堡的胡椒蜂蜜饼可远 不止是姜饼的一个品种。不论您想让它嵌满杏仁、

沾上巧克力还是裹一层糖衣，它都代表着纽伦堡风 味之精髓。 lebkuchen-eckstein.de, baeckerei-gstatter.de, lebkuchen-schmidt.com

38: Game Changer 打破规则 归功于个性设计以及与时装跨界合作，阿迪达斯的 运动服饰已不再只为运动而生。Dionne Hélène为 您揭示阿迪达斯运动鞋与运动服饰成为衣橱基本 款的原因 近年来，在模糊运动装与时装的界限上，阿迪达斯 一直处于领导地位。这个德国品牌向来是运动鞋与 服饰领域的顶尖供应商，而对创新的持久热忱更使 其成为国际公认的业内先锋。 阿迪达斯的时尚足迹令人印象深刻：最近的 合作者包括一些业内举足轻重的名字如Stella McCartney、Yohji Yamamoto、Raf Simons与 Rick Owens，还有Kolor’s Junichi Abe与嘻哈巨 星Kanye West。每位合作者都带来自己的个性化注 脚，加上阿迪达斯在运动服领域的专长，催生出一 系列精彩纷呈的作品。通过将每位设计师在T型台 上偏好的技巧与材质融入作品中，阿迪达斯的产品 已从运动服饰，变身为炙手可热的诱人时尚单品。 无论舞台是大街还是运动场，实用性和与便利 性是这一演变的中心思想，阿迪达斯的核心价值从 而得以保持。品牌以“对品质的承诺与对运动的热 情”而骄傲，并力求确保阿迪达斯的每个系列都为 提供舒适与更佳表现而生，无论人们在哪种场合 穿着。 基于这点，品牌与全球最受尊敬的时装 设计师合作之决定并不令人意外；例如Yohji Yamamoto，已经与阿迪达斯合作推出Y-3系列十 余年。Yamanoto被视为剪裁大师，自1970年代以 来就不断打破时装的界限，他为阿迪达斯带来的大 胆、具有实验性的设计也不例外。设计师最著名的 设计包括Qasa，以高性能复合织物结合活力四射的 鞋面设计。 与Yamamoto合作系列的成功，激励阿迪达斯 更为大胆地与前卫设计师合作。Rick Owens为品 牌带来的设计，被认为是迄今为止最具实验性的作 品，以干净利落的极简黑白配色结合充满力量的流 畅线条，让人联想到现代建筑。Owens的作品吸引 了新一代的运动鞋爱好者，他们重视功能性也注重 时尚感。 阿迪达斯还是材料创新的个中翘楚，不断打破 运动服饰的传统边界。Stella McCartney是推动这 一变革的最大功臣，尤其在女装方面。她的设计美学

62

再次被重新塑造；阿迪达斯联手Pharrell Williams 带来Supercolor系列，一款拥有50种色彩选择的 Superstar限量版运动鞋。 Stan Smith是另一款受时尚界青睐的经典设 计。这款运动鞋为同名网球运动员Stan Smith在 网球场上穿着而设计，并且自1970年代以来几乎在 设计上没有任何变化。这款运动鞋的低调美感，使 其成为永不落伍的经典款式，无论搭配风格强硬的 外套还是简单日常装束都相得益彰。Stan Smith 与Superstar 运动鞋都时常见诸于各大时装周的前 排。 Superstar与Stan Smith的故事，完美展示了运 动服饰已成为奢华时尚界的一部分。运动鞋如今已 被视为衣橱中的基本款，随着阿迪达斯坚持不懈地 与全球最优秀的设计师们进行合作，品牌的服饰系 列也日渐拥有同样地位，再次证明了时尚与内涵并 不相互排斥。 adidas.com

54: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只

是女性化、风格浪漫与贴合身形。使用能够让身体自 由呼吸与移动的面料，配合亮眼的、充满视觉刺激的 图案以获得最佳效果。 时尚界往往需要向过去寻求灵感，而阿迪达 斯也有厚重的历史可以追溯。品牌最著名的系列 Superstar，已经成为永恒的经典，受到运动鞋爱好 者与时尚编辑的一致拥戴。这款为篮球而生的运动 鞋，推出于1960年代末期，因NBA传奇巨星贾巴尔 而风靡。它的多功能设计，同时适合在场内或场外穿 着，这点是具有革命性的。 自那时起，这款运动鞋已经过几次改版，它甚至 出现在1986年美国嘻哈组合Run-DMC的一首叫 做My Adidas的歌中。该组合的成员以只穿阿迪达 斯运动鞋而著称，并成为历史上第一个得到运动服 饰品牌公开官方赞助的音乐团体。 脚趾处运用硬壳设计的Superstar格外结实， 并能提供额外保护。1980年代的一次设计改动使 其吸引到滑板界的视线，后者迅速被其坚硬的外壳 与橡胶外底的耐磨性而深深吸引。这个款式近年来 globalblue.com

是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税 过程：

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 （Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小 票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 的退税点领取您的退税款。 联系方式：

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€25即可节约高达购买价格14.5%的税。请 注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管 理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取 现金退税手续费。

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‫مص ّممي الزياء ف العال؛ عمل ‪ Yohji Yamamoto‬عل‬ ‫سبيل الثال مع ‪ Adidas‬عل خ ّط ‪ Y-3‬لكث من ٍ‬ ‫عقد‪.‬‬ ‫يُعتب ‪ Yamamoto‬خيّاطاً بارعاً‪ ،‬يتخطّى حدود الزياء منذ‬ ‫السبعينات‪ ،‬وخي دليل عل ذلك تصاميمه الجريئة الخارجة عن‬ ‫كل ابتكاراته‪ ،‬با ف ذلك‬ ‫الألوف لـ ‪ .Adidas‬يدمج الص ّمم ف ّ‬ ‫‪ ،Qasa‬أقمشة مركّبة عالية الداء مع أجزاء علويّة حيويّة من‬ ‫الحذاء‪.‬‬ ‫نظرا ً لنجاح تعاونها مع ‪ ،Yamamoto‬تش ّجعت ‪Adidas‬‬ ‫لخوض الزيد من الغامرات مع مواهب تصميم مبدعة أخرى‪.‬‬ ‫تُعتب تصاميم ‪ Rick Owens‬للعلمة من أكث القطع غرابةً‪،‬‬ ‫مع استخدام ألوان ناصعة هادئة وخطوط انسيابيّة قويّة تذكّر‬ ‫بالهندسة الحديثة‪ .‬وقد جذبت أعمل ‪ Owens‬جيلً جديدا ً من‬ ‫محبّي الحذية الرياضيّة الذين يهت ّمون بالشكل والعمليّة بقدر ما‬ ‫يهت ّمون بالوضة‪.‬‬ ‫ص ّممت ‪ Adidas‬ملبس تتخطّى الحدود التقليديّة‬ ‫لشكل اللبس الرياضيّة منذ زمنٍ طويل‪ .‬كان للمص ّممة ‪Stella‬‬ ‫‪ McCartney‬الفضل الكب ف الساعدة عل تحقيق ذلك‬ ‫وبخاصة ف مجال اللبس النسائيّة‪ .‬تتمتّع بأسلوب تصميم أنثوي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ورومانس ومغرٍ‪ .‬جمعت إل ح ّد كبي بي القمشة التي تسمح‬ ‫للجسم بالتنفّس والتح ّرك بسهولة وبي النقوش الباهرة اللفتة‬ ‫للنظر‪.‬‬ ‫غالباً ما تُستوحى الزياء من الاض‪ ،‬ولعلمة ‪ Adidas‬تاري ٌخ‬ ‫خاص تنقّب فيه‪ .‬بات التصميم الشهر لدى العلمة‪،Superstar ،‬‬ ‫حذا ًء كلسيكيّاً لزمنيّاً‪ ،‬يحظى بإعجاب محبّي الحذية الرياضيّة‬ ‫ومح ّرري الزياء عل ح ّد سواء‪ُ .‬ص ّمم للعب كرة السلّة وأطلق ف‬ ‫أواخر الستّينات وقد ساهم ف ترويجه لعب الـ ‪ NBA‬السطوري‬ ‫كريم عبد الجبّار‪ .‬أحدث هذا الحذاء ثورة بفضل تصميمه الرن‬ ‫الذي يسمح بانتعاله عل أرض اللعب وخارجها‪.‬‬ ‫مذّاك‪ ،‬أُعيد ابتكار الحذاء عدّة م ّرات‪ ،‬حتّى أنّه ُذكِر ف أغنية ‪My‬‬ ‫‪ Adidas‬سنة ‪ 1986‬لفرقة الهيب هوب الميكيّة ‪Run-‬‬ ‫‪ .DMC‬اشتهر أعضاء الفرقة بانتعال أحذية ‪ Adidas‬ل غي‪،‬‬ ‫فكانوا أ ّول فرقة موسيقيّة تلقى الدعم الرسمي من علمة ملبس‬ ‫رياضيّة‪.‬‬ ‫حذاء ‪ Superstar‬متي ويتمتّع بقدّمة صلبة لتوفي مزيدا ً‬

‫من الحمية‪ .‬نتيجة تحديث التصميم ف الثمنينات‪ ،‬لفت الحذاء‬ ‫انتباه هواة التزحلق اللّوحي الذين أُعجبوا بهيكله الخارجي‬ ‫الصلب ونعله الطّاطي التي‪ .‬وقد أُعيد مؤ ّخرا ً ابتكار التصميم‬ ‫من خلل تعاون ‪ Pharrell Williams‬مع ‪ Adidas‬لتصميم‬ ‫‪ ،Supercolor‬وهو نسخة حصيّة عن ‪ Superstar‬بخمسي‬ ‫لوناً‪.‬‬ ‫كم أ ّن ‪ Stan Smith‬تصمي ٌم كلسيك آخر اعتمده محبّو‬ ‫الوضة‪ .‬كم ّ‬ ‫يدل إسمه‪ ،‬ص ّمم للعب كرة الضب ‪Stan Smith‬‬ ‫لينتعله ف اللعب وبقي عل حاله منذ إطلقه ف السبعينات‪.‬‬ ‫بفضل أسلوبه البسيط‪ ،‬بات رمزا ً عاليّاً للموضة‪ ،‬يك ّمل اللبس‬ ‫الجريئة الحدّدة للموضة واللبس اليوميّة الكث بساطة عل‬ ‫ح ّد سواء‪ .‬وقد ظهر تصميم ‪ Stan Smith‬و‪ Superstar‬ف‬ ‫الصفوف الول ف عدّة أسابيع للموضة‪.‬‬ ‫قصة هذين التصميمن بامتياز تط ّور اللبس‬ ‫تجسد ّ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الرياضيّة لتصبح جزءا ً من قطاع الزياء الفاخرة‪ .‬يُعتب الحذاء‬ ‫يومي‪ ،‬ومع مواصلة‬ ‫الرياض الن قطعة يكن ارتداؤها بشكلٍ ّ‬ ‫‪ Adidas‬تعاونها مع أرقى مص ّممي الزياء ف العال‪ ،‬تحظى‬ ‫ملبسها باليزة نفسها‪ ،‬لتظهر للم ّرة الول والخية أن ّكُلً من‬ ‫التصميم والادّة ل يلغي الخر‪.‬‬ ‫‪adidas.com‬‬ ‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free: 54‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العال‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة‬

‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الضيبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من‬ ‫‪ 270,000‬متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫تس ّوق‬ ‫‪.1‬‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫أينم تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت‪.‬‬ ‫أطلب‬ ‫‪.2‬‬ ‫ف طريق العودة إل وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجمرك عند نقطة‬ ‫الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫مكاتب الستداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫للتّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪111 111 232 +421‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدن قدره ‪ €25‬وادّخر حتّى ‪ 14.5%‬من ثن مشتياتك‪.‬‬

‫يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة‬ ‫عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬ف بعض الطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض‬ ‫رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت‬ ‫بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬

‫‪64‬‬

‫وأقل من ‪ 10%‬دقيق‪ .‬وتؤكّد‬ ‫القل ّ‬ ‫مكسات عل ّ‬ ‫من ‪ّ 25%‬‬ ‫‪Anna Eckstein‬التي تدير الفرن الحلّ ‪Lebküchenerei‬‬ ‫‪ ،Eckstein‬أ ّن هذا الكعك وسمة للجودة الحقيقيّة‪.‬‬ ‫مهمً من الطبخ التقليدي‬ ‫بالتال‪ ،‬بات ‪ lebkuchen‬جزءا ً ّ‬

‫ف نورمبغ واكتسبت بعض الفران الحظوظة داخل الدينة‬ ‫الؤشات الجغرافيّة ف التّحاد الوروب‪ ،‬ما يشي‬ ‫وضع حمية ّ‬ ‫إل خصائص منتجاتها التقليديّة والفريدة من نوعها‪ .‬ف ك“ي من‬ ‫كل‬ ‫الحيان‪ ،‬يُع ّد كعك ‪ lebkuchen‬ف أفران عائليّة‪ ،‬حيث يبتكر ّ‬ ‫الخاص بحسب الوصفة السيّة التوارثة من جيل‬ ‫واحد نوذجه‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫إل آخر ويبيعها إل زبائنه الوفياء‪ .‬تقول ‪“ :Eckstein‬زبائننا‬ ‫محليّون ودائون‪ ،‬يبح“ون عن الجودة واللّمسة الحرفيّة‪ .‬لدينا‬ ‫متخصص ل ينافس النتجي الصناعيّي‪”.‬‬ ‫سوق‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫من السمء الخرى ف هذا الجال‪ ،‬فرن ‪ Gstatter‬الذي‬ ‫الؤسسة‪ .‬يقول ‪Harald‬‬ ‫يديره حاليّاً الجيل ال“الث من العائلة ّ‬ ‫الؤسس‪“ :‬يتميّز كعك ‪ lebkuchen‬الذي‬ ‫‪ ،Gstatter‬حفيد إبن ّ‬ ‫حض بحسب وصفة سيّة ومن مك ّونات‬ ‫نعدّه عن غيه لنّه يُ ّ‬ ‫عالية الجودة ويُخبز طازجاً‪ ”.‬يُنتج ‪ lebkuchen‬بشكلٍ يومي من‬ ‫دون مواد حافظة ف أفران عل سبيل ‪Gstatter‬‬ ‫و‪.Lebküchnerei Eckstein‬‬ ‫ففي فرن ‪ ،Bäckerei Gstatter‬تُع ّد يدويّاً ما بي ‪ 8‬آلف‬ ‫كل موسم‪ .‬يقول ‪:Gstatter‬‬ ‫وعشة آلف كعكة ‪ّ lebkuchen‬‬ ‫“نخبز ‪ lebkuchen‬ف العادة بي تشين ال ّول‪/‬أكتوبر واليلد‪،‬‬ ‫لكن إن كان الطقس باردا ً وماطرا ً ف أيلول‪/‬سبتمب‪ ،‬يكننا أن نبدأ‬ ‫يحب الناس ‪ lebkuchen‬ف اليام الباردة‪”.‬‬ ‫قبل ذلك إذ ّ‬ ‫يتن ّوع منتجو ‪ lebkuchen‬من أفران صغية ب”دارة أسة ومعامل‬ ‫تصنيع كبية‪ .‬ومن بي هذه الخية‪ ،‬الشكة الكب والشهر ف‬ ‫نورمبغ ‪ .Lebkuchen Schmidt‬تحظى بشهر ٍة واسعة وتنتج‬ ‫ما يقارب ثلثة مليي كعكة ‪ lebkuchen‬يوميّاً ف أوج الوسم‪.‬‬ ‫تُرسل ف ما بعد إل زبائن حول العال وتُباع ف متاجر العلمة‬ ‫الوسميّة البالغ عددها ‪ .130‬يقول ‪ ،Juergen Merkel‬مدير‬ ‫التصدير ف ‪“ :Lebkuchen Schmidt‬عندما تفكّر بنورمبغ‪،‬‬ ‫تطرأ عل بالك كعكة ‪ ،lebkuchen‬ونفتخر ب”نتاج منتجات‬ ‫ممتازة معروفة ومرغوبة ف سائر أنحاء العال‪”.‬‬ ‫يتسخ هذا الشعور بوضوح مهم كان حجم الفرن‪ .‬يفتخر‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫كل منتجي ‪ lebkuchen‬ب”نتاجهم‪ .‬ف”ن قمت بجولة ف أرجاء‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الدينة‪ ،‬ستجد أ ّن كعك ‪ lebkuchen‬ف نورمبغ أكث من مج ّرد‬ ‫خبز بطعم الزنجبيل‪ .‬إن كنت تفضّ له مغطّى باللّوز أو مغ ّمساً‬ ‫بالشوكولتة أو مغلّفاً بالسكّر‪ ،‬يبقى الطعم الساس لنورمبغ‪.‬‬ ‫‪،lebkuchen-eckstein.de ،baeckerei-gstatter.de‬‬

‫الفاصلة بي اللبس الرياضيّة والزياء‪ .‬لطالا كانت هذه العلمة‬ ‫التجاريّة اللانيّة ف طليعة مز ّودي الحذية واللبس الرياضيّة‪،‬‬ ‫وباتت مشهورة عاليّاً ورائدة ف هذا الجال نتيجة شغفها بالبتكار‪.‬‬ ‫تتمتّع ‪ Adidas‬بابتكارات مذهلة؛ تعاونت مؤ ّخرا ً مع عظمء عل‬ ‫سبيل ‪ Stella McCartney‬و‪ Yohji Yamamoto‬و‪Raf‬‬ ‫‪ Simons‬و‪ Rick Owens‬بالضافة إل ‪ Junichi Abe‬من‬ ‫كل‬ ‫‪ Kolor‬ومغ ّني الهيب هوب الثي ‪ .Kanye West‬حمل ّ‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫الخاص إل الشاكة التي ولّدت قطعاً مميّزة‬ ‫واحد منهم أسلوبه‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لدى تطعيمها بخبة ‪ Adidas‬ف اللبس الرياضيّة‪ .‬ومن خلل‬ ‫منصة‬ ‫استخدام التقنيّات والواد التي يفضّ لها ّ‬ ‫كل مص ّمم عل ّ‬ ‫الزياء‪ ،‬ارتقت قطع ‪ Adidas‬من مستوى اللبس الرياضيّة‬ ‫لتصبح أزيا ًء مرغوبة بشدّة‪.‬‬ ‫يكمن عنصا العمليّة والبساطة ف قلب هذا التط ّور‪ ،‬مع‬ ‫بغض النظر‬ ‫الحرص عل إبقاء قيم ‪ Adidas‬الجوهريّة قويّة‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫إن كان الهدف هو الشارع أو صالة الرياضة‪ .‬تفتخر العلمة‬ ‫كل‬ ‫بـ “التزامها الجودة وشغفها بالرياضة”‪ ،‬ما يضمن تصميم ّ‬ ‫مجموعة من ‪ Adidas‬لتوفّر الراحة والداء الجيّد أينم لُبِست‪.‬‬ ‫لذا‪ ،‬ل عجب ف ات ّخاذ العلمة القرار بالتعامل مع بعض أبرز‬

‫‪lebkuchen-schmidt.com‬‬ ‫‪Game Changer: 38‬‬

‫تح ّو ٌل جذري‬

‫‪PHOTOS: ALEX PUSCH‬‬

‫بفضل التصاميم البتكرة والشاكات التعدّدة التي قامت بها‬ ‫‪ ،Adidas‬ل تعد ملبسها الرياضيّة للرياضة فحسب‪ .‬تسلّط‬ ‫‪ Dionne Hélène‬الضوء عل تح ّول أحذية وملبس هذه‬ ‫العلمة فجأة إل قطعٍ ل ب ّد من امتلكها‬ ‫ف السنوات الخية‪ ،‬سطع نجم ‪ Adidas‬ف مجال محو الخطوط‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية‬ ‫‪Spice World: 32‬‬

‫عال التوابل‬

‫كعك ‪ lebkuchen‬اللّذيذ رمز مدينة نورمبغ‪ ،‬تقرير ‪Ginger‬‬ ‫‪Rose Clark‬‬

‫إنّها بداية كانون ال ّول‪/‬ديسمب‪ ،‬انخفضت درجات الحرارة حتّى‬ ‫الصفر وتقلّصت ساعات النهار‪ .‬وبالرغم من الج ّو الشتوي‪ ،‬يعكس‬ ‫سوق اليلد ‪ Christkindlesmarkt‬ف نورمبغ نورا ً دافئاً‬ ‫فيم ينبعث ضو ٌء خفيف من الشاليهات الخشبيّة الطليّة بالحمر‬ ‫والبيض وتفوح ف الهواء رائحة النبيذ الساخن بالتوابل‪ .‬إنّه عيد‬ ‫كل النتجات‬ ‫الحلول وتسيطر التقاليد عل سوق نورمبغ الشهي‪ّ .‬‬ ‫تقليديّة ومحليّة‪ ،‬من شخصيّات ‪Zwetschgenmännle‬‬ ‫الظريفة الصنوعة من الخوخ الجفّف برؤوس من الجوز إل نقانق‬ ‫كل مكان‪ .‬لكن قد يكون أه ّم ما ف‬ ‫‪ bratwurst‬الوجودة ف ّ‬ ‫المر‪ ،‬احتواء السوق عل أكداس من كعك ‪ lebkuchen‬الفاتح‬ ‫للشهيّة‪.‬‬

‫‪ Lebkuchen‬هو نوع من الخبز بطعم الزنجبيل‪ ،‬يُستهلك ف‬ ‫سائر أنحاء ألانيا خلل موسم العياد‪ .‬تفاقمت شهرته ف نورمبغ‬ ‫إل أن أصبح رمز الدينة‪.‬‬ ‫تعود أهميّة كعك ‪ lebchuken‬إل العصور الوسطى‪ ،‬عندما‬ ‫ُوث ّق إنتاجه ف الديِرة للم ّرة الول ف القرن الرابع عش‪ .‬وف‬ ‫تلك الفتة‪ ،‬كانت النطقة الحرجيّة الحيطة بنورمبغ تُس ّمى‬ ‫“حديقة النحل ف المباطوريّة اللانيّة” لوفرة العسل فيها‪ .‬وما‬ ‫لبث أن استُخدم هذا العسل لتحلية منتجات مختلفة وعندما‬ ‫ُمزج مع توابل جلبها الت ّجار من أسفارهم حول العال‪ ،‬كالقرنفل‬ ‫والقرفة واليانسون وجوز الطيب والزنجبيل‪ ،‬كانت النتيجة كعك‬ ‫‪.lebkuchen‬‬ ‫قد تخطئ الظ ّن إن فكّرت أ ّن كعك ‪lebkuchen‬‬ ‫عم ابتُ ِكر ف مناطق أخرى ف ألانيا‪.‬‬ ‫ف نورمبغ ل يختلف ّ‬ ‫تتباهى نورمبغ ب”عدادها أنبل أنواع هذا الكعك وهو‬ ‫‪ .elisenlebkuchen‬تروي السطورة أن أع ّد خبّاز من نورمبغ‬ ‫هذا الكعك ف القرن ال“امن عش مستخدماً أفخر الك ّونات‬ ‫الكسات السحونة وتوابل ممتازة الجودة)‬ ‫(كميّات سخيّة من ّ‬ ‫ليعالج ابنته العليلة ‪ Elisabeth‬من مرض سبق وقض عل‬ ‫زوجته‪ .‬حتّى يومنا هذا‪ ،‬يتألّف كعك ‪elisenlebkuchen‬‬

‫‪PHOTO: © STADT NUERNBERG/BIRGIT FUDER‬‬

66 | P RO D U C T S

STEPPING OUT These black unisex lace-up boots by The Last Conspiracy convey just the right mix of artisanal quality and style. The brand was founded in 2010 and its handmade footwear for men and for women is inspired by a combination of Portuguese craftsmanship and Nordic minimalism. An innate focus on functionality led the team to begin with a range of androgynous styles, introducing women’s heels for the frst time only last year. The Save up to 14.5% by shopping tax free, see page 54

brand selects the best raw materials, in particular fne leathers, which are worked by hand by highly skilled craftsmen. All footwear from The Last Conspiracy is made with the connection between maker, product and wearer in mind. The brand’s designs are experimental and original, yet will suit many diferent personal styles. fm The Last Conspiracy sneakers, €495, Crämer & Co, Breite Gasse 18, 90402 Nuremberg, +49 (0)911 205 5570, thelastconspiracy.com * for map go to page 51

PHOTO: JORGE TEIXEIRA

SOUVENIR