SHOP Paris Lux AW15

PARIS | ПАРИЖ | 巴黎 | パリ

PARIS Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2015/16

Page 42 CARRIED AWAY: Paris’s heritage luggage-makers have a long history of perfect pieces

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind.

For more than 135 years, the name

purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our

“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost

pieces of jewellery uphold internatio-

expertise in the art of making jewellery

nal standards and are born in our own

and timepieces. We offer a unique

atelier. This is true for unusual one-of-

selection of valuable treasures at 28

a-kind items as well as for our diverse

Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are

assortment of classic pieces with

especially proud because for more than

brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-

a century we have been privileged to

old friendship links us with the world’s

contribute to the grand feelings that

foremost watch manufactories. You will

our customers express when they

find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest

We accept all credit cards.

locations in great European metropolises,

to discover an abundance of interesting

New York City and in Beijing. Each shop

new items and exclusive special models at

also offers service or advice whenever you

one of Europe’s leading jewellers. Please

require it, so you can be certain that we

have a look at our website to find the

will always be available to meet your

complete range of watch brands we carry.

individual needs. We cordially invite you

We look forward to your visit!

Paris 16, rue Royale T +33.1.42 60 21 77 paris@wempe.fr Hamburg London Paris New York Beijing wempe.com

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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Германия

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of Paris, world-renowned for its fashion, gastronomy and culture. Paris has much to ofer, as our guide on page 71 reveals. Readers who appreciate beautiful luggage will enjoy our profle of the Moynat heritage brand (page 42), and in this issue we also trace the latest directions in menswear (page 50) and reveal the city’s buoyant new mood (page 56).

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save an average of 12% when shopping in France. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Paris. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free Global Blue Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

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Welcome to Paris

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IRRESISTIBLE

CASHMERE

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Lucy Vigrass Lucy Vigrass created the cover for this season’s luxury edition of SHOP Paris, inspired by our feature on historic luggage on page 42. Her bold, graphic style and skill with geometric shapes made her the perfect choice and her illustration shows bespoke luggage pieces, carefully shaped to ft perfectly on the various modes of transport shown – a service ofered by high-end luggage makers in years gone by. Lucy has also created artwork for the BBC, the New York Times and the Victoria and Albert Museum, among others.

Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

PHOTO: ROBERT SHRAM

PHOTO: DIONNE HÉLÈNE

ILLUSTRATION: LUCY VIGRASS

CONTRIBUTORS

Karen Munnis Writer and fashion stylist Karen Munnis has contributed to The Hufngton Post, Fashion magazine and The Globe & Mail. Her stylist clients include Sony Music, MTV, the BBC, Velour and British Glamour. globalblue.com

Harriet Quick Journalist Harriet Quick reports on Paris’s vibrant new mood for this edition of SHOP. She has held senior roles at the Guardian and British Vogue, where she was the fashion features director for over a decade.

Ruairidh Pritchard Ruairidh Pritchard, acting production editor at SHOP, studied journalism in Glasgow, where he was editor of his university’s awardwinning magazine. Ruairidh is a keen traveller and writes for a variety of publications.

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Lucy Vigrass Contributors Maria Kirchen-Hill, Karen Munnis, Harriet Quick Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Ruairidh Pritchard Production assistant Katie Muxworthy Features editor Verity Hogan City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri News editor Hannah Lewis Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold Fashion coordinator Fani Mari Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/ deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts Assistant picture editor Grace Bird Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Charlotte Rogers Art direction Design by S-T Artwork editor Simon Thompson Artworking assistants Aaron Carline, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala Artworking intern Tom Knight

Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Online production assistant Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese contributing editor Qingya He Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liang Chinese translators Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Aiyang Zou

GLOBA L BLU E F R A NCE Country manager Francis Chommaux Marketing sales manager Lucie Delahaye Marketing coordinators Juliette Pavageau, Patrice Simeon Global Blue France, 18 rue de Calais, 75009 Paris, France +33 (0)1 4161 5151

Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Samantha Junak Commercial artworking intern Kiranjeet Kaur AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Production assistant Sammy Ha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini Distribution and partnerships manager Lara Osuna

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. While every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

Porsche Design

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Dynamics. Strengths. Titanium chronograph with black titanium carbide coating. Swiss Made.

EXPERIENCE THE NEW LUXURY LIFEST YLE Welcome to the world of Porsche Design. A world that stays eternally young, fresh, and cool by passionately driving for innovation. A world where new quality materials, technologies, and fi nest functional elegance blend into a truly exclusive, iconic contemporary design. Some call it luxury? We call it essentials for a challenging future.

We are proud to design for the man and woman of tomorrow. www.porsche-design.com Porsche Design Paris | Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré 23

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CONTENTS

PHOTO: INDIGITALIMAGES.COM

p.56

P ROD U C T S 18 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Paris this season 20 My Favourites Mathilde Lacoste, creative director of Fusalp, reveals her top tips for autumn/ winter 2015/16 22 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 30 Street Style Our pick of the best-dressed at Paris Fashion Week N EWS 32 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Paris 34 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

F E AT U R E S 42 Cover Story: The Art Of Travel Moynat, one of the most historic luggage manufacturers in Paris, has reinvented itself for the modern age without losing sight of its roots, as Karen Munnis discovers 50 Men Of The Moment The world’s most style-conscious men look to Paris for sartorial guidance.

Ruairidh Pritchard picks out this season’s main trends 56 New Visions From new restaurants to the reinvention of historic fashion houses, Paris is undergoing a cultural renaissance, says Harriet Quick

Above: fashion’s energetic new mood was evident at the Sonia Rykiel autumn/winter 2015/16 collection

JUERGEN TELLER

A curated series of photography: JUERGEN TELLER and B R U C E W E B ER

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CONTENTS E X PE R I E NCE 62 Table Talk Paris’s brightest female chefs are making their mark in the city, writes Isabella Redmond Styles 66 Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels GU I DE 71 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Paris, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights

ESSENTI A LS 86 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S 87 Русский Перевод 91 美文翻译 94 日本語翻訳 SOU V E N I R 98 The essential item to bring home

E N GL I S H | Р УС С К И Й | 中 文

ONLINE

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

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Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-theminute shopping tips and insider information.

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Delvaux Paris Palais Royal Palais Royal 151-154, Galerie de Valois 75001 Paris, France

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CHECK OUT

ART À PORTER NS by Noof creative director Noof AlShekar is inspired by the aesthetics of both jewellery and architecture. Using a tasteful balance of leather, metal and precious stones, she creates bags that are as much works of art as they are accessories.

Her foray into the world of premium luxury began in 2009 and she presented her frst collection a year later. AlShekar’s passion for high-quality materials leads her to source the exotic skins and lambskins she uses from Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Italy, and she employs artisans in Lebanon for metalwork and stone-setting; each bag is made with care, by hand. This blue and gold octagonal clutch is made from solid brass dipped in 22-carat gold to ensure durability and brilliance. NS by Noof ofers ‘luxury considered to the last detail.’ th NS by Noof clutch, €1,600, Aloha Paris, 178 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)9 8413 2594, nsbynoof.com * for map go to page 79

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MY FAVOURITES: MATHILDE LACOSTE Mathilde Lacoste, recently appointed creative director at French luxury skiwear brand Fusalp, presents her frst collection this autumn/winter.

Lacoste and her team have taken the rich heritage of this prestigious brand and brought its classic designs right up to date. Ximena Daneri met the designer in Paris to hear about the brand’s future and discover some insider tips on the city

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PHOTO: (PROFILE) © EMILIE ARFEUIL; (4) © FLORENT MICHEL / 11H45

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S H O P | 21

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1. ‘We relaunched the brand by creating a capsule collection exclusively for Colette, which kept our strong heritage but was also new. This is the way forward for the brand’ Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 3390, colette.fr

2. ‘The Fusalp fuseau trousers were created in 1952 and have always been an iconic piece’ fusalp.com

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3. ‘A sport brand called Veja has opened a multibrand store called Centre Commercial.

It’s great for buying casual things’ Centre Commercial, 2 rue de Marseille, 75010 Paris, +33 (0)1 4202 2608, centrecommercial.cc

4. ‘One of my favourite places to visit in Paris is the Palais de Tokyo’ Palais de Tokyo, 13 avenue du Président Wilson, 75116 Paris, +33 (0)1 8197 3588, palaisdetokyo.com

5. ‘My favourite products this season were inspired

by Fusalp pieces from the 70s. We translated this into the collection with the details like the padding on the elbows of the jackets or knees of the trousers. It’s a decorative thing but still quite minimal, ftted and sexy’ Fusalp padded jacket, €790, Snow Emotion, 212 boulevard Pereire, 75017 Paris, +33 (0)1 5381 7307, fusalp.com

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READY JET GO Packing is made easy with our comprehensive carry-on guide

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1. Vivienne Westwood Man Chico coat, €3,437, Galeries Lafayette, 40 boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 4282 3850, viviennewestwood.com

3. Ermenegildo Zegna gloves, €390, Ermenegildo Zegna, 50 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4451 1991, zegna.com

5. Bally sneakers, €450, Bally, 35 boulevard des Capucines, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4455 3820, bally.com

2. Vertu mobile phone, €10,800, Vertu, 18 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4286 5666, vertu.com

4. Moncler pouch, €415, Moncler, 7 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5305 9215, moncler.com

6. Etro ties, €170 each, Etro, 177 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4548 1817, etro.com

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PHOTOS: (2) AKBAR ALI; (5) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY; (7) JEPPE SØRENSEN; (8) © GSI COMMERCE

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7. Bang & Olufsen Black Copper speaker, €399, Bang & Olufsen, 44 boulevard Henri IV, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4277 9777, bang-olufsen.com 8. Tumi carry-on suitcase, €625, Tumi, 245 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4579 7030, tumi.com globalblue.com

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MAKE YOUR MARK A graphically patterned cardigan teamed with bold accessories makes a standout combination

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1. Mango cardigan, €49.99, Mango, 82 rue de Rivoli, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4459 8037, mango.com

3. Emilio Pucci hat, €310, Emilio Pucci, 46-48 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4720 0445, emiliopucci.com

2. Damiani earrings, €4,190, Damiani, Peninsula Paris, 19 avenue Kléber, 75116 Paris, damiani.it

4. Paula Cademartori bag, €1,770, Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4439 8000, paulacademartori.com

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

5. Acne Studios Olav boots, €900, Acne Studios, 1 quai Voltaire, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 5188, acnestudios.com

PA R I S 2 AV E N U E M O N TA I G N E

+33 1 42898345

PA L A I S D E S CO N G R E S

+ 3 3 1 4 0 6 8 213 0 E S C A D A . COM

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EASILY SUEDE Channel the style of the 70s in this groovy ensemble

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1. Sportmax sweater, €425, Sportmax, 72 rue des Saints-Pères, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4549 2203, sportmax.com

3. Givenchy boots, €975, Givenchy, 36 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4443 9990, givenchy.com

2. Buccellati bracelet, €2,200, Buccellati, 4 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 1212, buccellati.com

4. Salvatore Ferragamo bag, €6,000, Salvatore Ferragamo, 45 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 3637, ferragamo.com

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5. Bimba y Lola maxi skirt, from €810, Bimba y Lola, 36 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4274 2613, bimbaylola.com

PHOTO: (5) BIMBA & LOLA

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FRINGE BENEFITS

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The must-try colour combination of the season is black and tan

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1. Burberry cape, price on request, Burberry, 56 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 7207 0021, burberry.com 2. Bulgari watch, €11,500, Bulgari, 25 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 0050, bulgari.com

3. Cartier Amulette necklace, €1,710, Cartier, 13 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 5818 2300, cartier.com

5. Urban Outftters Rhythm hat, €40, Le BHV Marais, 52 rue de Rivoli, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4278 5179, urbanoutftters.com

4. Jimmy Choo Tatiana shoes, €775, Jimmy Choo, 34 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 0339, jimmychoo.com

6. Dolce & Gabbana bag, €1,950, Dolce & Gabbana, 54 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4225 6868, dolcegabbana.com

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

PHOTOS: (2) GEOFFROY BAUD; (3) © CARTIER/VINCENT WULVERYCK; (4) RICHARD VALENCIA PHOTOGRAPHY

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STREET STYLE

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

The ever-stylish palette of taupe, cream, caramel and tan proved popular at Paris Fashion Week, with statement handbags a must-have to fnish of the look

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S H O P | 31

globalblue.com

32 | N E W S

PHOTO: © TANGUY DE MONTESSON

SHOP WINDOW

PIAGET PALACE Earlier this year, world-renowned jeweller Piaget opened a haute joaillerie fagship store at 7 rue de la Paix, the previous home of Charles Frederick Worth, the father of haute couture.

The new space covers over 500 square metres and is Piaget’s largest boutique. The brand’s motto is ‘always do better than necessary’ so it is no surprise that the historic building houses far more than just a point of sale.

From the exquisite interiors featuring gold Save an average of 12 % by shopping tax free, see page 86

leaf and chandeliers to the high-tech display windows that come to life as night falls, Piaget has designed the fagship as an all-round experience to display the ideals and aesthetic of the brand. The romantically minded should be sure to seek out the wedding collection on the frst foor, and timepiece enthusiasts will be glad to know that a master watchmaker is permanently in residence. hl Piaget, 7 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 5862 3700, piaget.com * for map go to page 81

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Lanvin has matched lavish materials with a sense of jagged roughness for its menswear ofering this season. The collection, one of many this season to take inspiration from the 1970s, sees brushed wool blazers left collarless, jackets featuring white stitched darting that echoes a tailor’s chalk marks, and billowing trousers left with an open hem, allowing fabric to pool around the ankles. All this gives a distinctly unfnished feeling.

As expected, classic luxurious pieces are still present in abundance. Shearling-collared leather jackets are bonded with neoprene, making them look almost weightless. The classic white T-shirt is re-imagined in fowing silk, cut loose and

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

RAW LUXURY

oversized. The collection’s theme is perfectly distilled in its standout black and red python bomber jacket, which is held together with crude, fyaway stitching, lending unbridled luxury a raw edge. rp

Lanvin, 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4471 3173, lanvin.com * for map go to page 79

Paris. As well as classic letters and numbers, the brand can also emboss its products with landmarks such as Paris’s Eifel Tower or London’s Big Ben. rp

Mulberry, 275 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 0064, mulberry.com * for map go to page 79

British luxury brand Mulberry has opened a 300-square-metre store on rue Saint-Honoré in Paris.

With its English countryside heritage and quirky sense of humour, Mulberry holds an enviable position in the fashion world. The store’s interior design uses wood and leather in earthy colours to refect the company’s home in Somerset, England; elaborate medieval carvings in Wells Cathedral inspired the bespoke leatherwork wall panels. Fans of the brand will be pleased to learn that Mulberry has brought its personalisation service to

PHOTO: KRISTEN PELOU

BEST OF BRITISH

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S H O P | 35

SAY IT WITH DIAMONDS

MAGNIFICENT MCQUEEN

Inspired by the style of the 1920s, Bucherer presents its latest collection of fne jewellery, Vive Elle. The art deco-infuenced range comprises around 20 pieces, including earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings. Featuring exquisite materials such as white gold, platinum and diamonds, the collection fuses Bucherer’s heritage of excellence in craftsmanship with the zest for life that characterised the Roaring Twenties. This distinctive bracelet is crafted from white gold set with sparkling diamonds, designed to match the collection’s fne-linked necklace. Founded in 1888, Bucherer is one of Europe’s longest-standing and most respected specialists in the felds of watches and jewellery. hl Bucherer, 12 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 7099 1888, bucherer.com * for map go to page 81 globalblue.com

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

Since it was announced in November 2014, Alexander McQueen fans have been eagerly anticipating the opening of the brand’s frst standalone store in Paris. The David Collins Studio luxury architecture frm partnered Alexander McQueen creative director Sarah Burton to devise this new retail concept.

The 600-square-metre store on rue Saint-Honoré ofers catwalk, commercial and accessories collections for men and women; for autumn/winter 2015/16, key pieces include Egon Schiele-inspired distressed lace dresses and Perspex-heeled leather boots. The decision to open a boutique in the world’s fashion capital cements the British label’s status as a global powerhouse. th Alexander McQueen, 372 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, alexandermcqueen.com * for map go to page 79

36 | N E W S

REINVENTING THE SEVENTIES

WELLTRAVELLED WEMPE Inspired by some of the favourite destinations of Wempe’s creative director Catherine Plouchard, the Cosmora rings from the By Kim range are some of the brand’s most artistic pieces to date. Plouchard and Kim-Eva

Wempe – the two women at the helm of this historic company – are frm believers in jewellery that fts into a woman’s life, that is luxurious and beautiful yet made to be worn. In line with this philosophy, the three new rings in this collection, Cape Town, Tokyo and Route 66, are exquisite pieces that can be worn every day. They are crafted from 18-carat white gold engraved with fuid lines and set with diamonds. hl

Save an average of 12 % by shopping tax free, see page 86

Wempe, 16 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 2177, wempe.com * for map go to page 80

PHOTOS (FROM TOP): © GORUNWAY.COM; MATTHIAS HOFFMANN

For autumn/winter 2015/16, creative director Clare Waight Keller has rewritten the rules for Chloé.

The French fashion house best known for its foaty, founcy feel has toughened up. This season, there are military wool capes and leather boots alongside the cheesecloth blouses and bohemian dresses.

Of course, the overall efect is still unmistakably Chloé, with centre-parted hair on the models and a 70s vibe throughout. Light, loosely knotted black scarves were ubiquitous on the catwalk, resulting in a grungier, edgier Chloé girl. As the Fleetwood Mac soundtrack played on, pale denim and shearling made a welcome appearance in the form of playsuits and a full-length coat. th Chloé, 44 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 0008, chloe.com * for map go to page 77

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THE BEAUTY OF LOUBOUTIN French luxury shoe brand Christian Louboutin has stepped into the world of cosmetics with the launch of its frst beauty boutique.

Founded in 2012, Christian Louboutin Beauté is a joint venture between Christian Louboutin and Batallure Beauty. As befts a brand

whose iconic red soles came about thanks to a stroke of red nail polish, nail colour is the frst ofering from Christian Louboutin Beauté.

Designed in collaboration with renowned interior architect Pierre Yovanovitch, this new concept store is a major step for the company. th Christian Louboutin Beauté, 8 Galerie Véro Dodat, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5300 2059, christianlouboutin.com

PHOTO: JC VINCENT

Givenchy has chosen the fashionable Marais neighbourhood as the location for its new menswear concept boutique. For the interior space, creative director Riccardo Tisci has designed an elegant setting reminiscent of an avant-garde gallery.

The use of raw concrete, marble, and an eye-catching Persian carpet in one room perfectly channel the brand’s DNA: a mix of street style and traditional craftsmanship.

Through a careful choice of furnishings, the various rooms each ofer a unique atmosphere, from the dark, polished wood of the entry salon to an all-white space paved with subway tiles.

Visitors can explore the latest menswear and accessories collections at their leisure. th Givenchy, 13 rue des Archives, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4454 8730, givenchy.com

PHOTO: JULIEN OPPENHEIM

GIVENCHY FOR GENTLEMEN

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A BEAUTIFUL SPACE Fully renovated in 2013 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of its opening, the Guerlain fagship store on the Champs-Élysées is a mustvisit for any beauty enthusiast. The update doubled the store’s size and architect Peter Marino has made the most of this impressive space, now one of the most luxurious stores on this already prestigious street. Split into various enticing areas, including a hall of mirrors, a restaurant, a spa and, of course, a vast retail space displaying the covetable Guerlain makeup and fragrance lines, the store is beautifully decorated, mixing the traditional and the modern in a way that refects Guerlain as a brand. A soft colour scheme of neutral colours accented with wood, gold and marble runs throughout, bringing a soft design unity to this multifaceted space. mkh Guerlain, 68 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4562 5257, guerlain.com * for map go to page 76

In brief:

PHOTO: POL BARRIL

— Elie Saab’s new flagship on avenue George V is well worth a visit. A listed art deco building provides the perfect backdrop to the Lebanese designer’s stunning creations

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COACH HOUSE Leading New York fashion label Coach expands its presence in Paris this autumn with the opening of a new fagship. The new store will open in time to celebrate the brand’s 75th anniversary. It will be furnished with a mix of custom-designed cabinets alongside vintage and bespoke pieces. Ofering the complete Coach collections of men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, jewellery, footwear, watches and fragrances, the new fagship will also be home to a unique VIP shopping salon and a monogram shop. mkh Coach, 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, coach.com * for map go to page 79

S H O P | 39

VUITTON’S NEW HOME

PHOTO: STEPHANE MURATET

Avenue Montaigne, location of the fnest brands in the world, is a destination in its own right. With the reopening of the legendary Louis Vuitton store, this prestigious street is set to rival the Champs-Élysées. Designed by American architect Peter Marino, the boutique resembles an ultra-luxurious modern Parisian fat. The interior is decorated in a neutral palette of beiges and browns, with colourful accents provided by the bright handbags and clothes hanging throughout the space. Like any truly sophisticated home, it also features an impressive art collection, with works by artists that include Richard Deacon and Marc Quinn. Upstairs, a private apartment is used to host parties for the company’s distinguished clientele. th Louis Vuitton, 22 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4562 4700, louisvuitton.com * for map go to page 77

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

VERSACE STRIPPED

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Italian fashion institution Versace is renowned for its celebration of extravagance, so this season’s pared-down menswear collection has surprised many. Refered to by the label’s matriarch Donatella Versace as ‘Versace stripped’, the collection introduces an aesthetic that has been thoroughly reworked and refned.

Sophisticated silhouettes have replaced fashy prints and patterns. Contemporary cuts have updated traditional Italian tailoring, with the classic double-breasted suit reinvented with a single gold clasp and trousers hitting just above the ankle. Layering is also a main focus in this season’s collection, with long-line ribbed jumpers and cardigans in abundance. Elements of Versace’s signature opulence remain, however, with the inclusion of a hooded mink coat and a black Mongolian sheepskin bowling bag, ensuring that Versace is still the byword for unbridled luxury in men’s fashion. rp Versace, 45 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4742 8802, versace.com * for map go to page 77

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THE ART OF THE SHOE

If there’s one certainty with Miuccia Prada, it is that there are no certainties. Her autumn/ winter 2015/16 collection for Miu Miu is a glorious mishmash of colours, patterns, and even eras. Outfts are an exercise in contrasts,

Shoe afcionado and contemporary art lover Alessandra Lanvin was working as a headhunter before she decided to turn her passion for footwear and her eye for design into a business in 2009. Six years later, Lanvin’s

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

PHOTO: ALESSANDRO CLEMENZA

ECLECTIC CHIC

with thick houndstooth coats teamed with patent crocodile leather miniskirts. The efect is a joyous assault on the senses. Oversized buttons are a key motif that unites sometimes disparate looks. This oversized theme was also apparent in the costume jewellery worn by the models who showed the collection.

The only area where Prada doesn’t play with proportions is accessories; bags and shoes have a distinctly 1950s feel, albeit with a cartoon-like Miu Miu makeover. th Miu Miu, 92 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5862 5320, miumiu.com * for map go to page 79 Save an average of 12 % by shopping tax free, see page 86

Aperlaï label has just opened its frst Paris fagship – proving the strength of her vision and success of her collections. Located between the Tuileries gardens and place Vendôme, the boutique is adorned with handpainted de Gournay wallpaper and velvet seats, creating a sumptuous atmosphere in which to try on striking Aperlaï styles such as the Geisha platform and the Gatsby fat. Step inside this season to fnd shoes that cut a dramatic dash for autumn/winter 2015/16. sm Aperlaï, 28 rue du Mont Thabor, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)9 5064 5951, aperlai.com * for map go to page 79

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PARIS WELCOMES DELVAUX When Belgian accessories brand Delvaux was seeking a location for its frst boutique in Paris, it found the perfect ft for its rich historic heritage in the luxurious Palais Royal.

During the 17th and 18th centuries this district of Paris was the most vibrant part of the city, the haunt of famous dandies and divas, and wellknown around the world. The concept for the boutique, which opened last year, was created by artists Martine Feipel and Jean Bechameil and combines a sophisticated interior with references to classicism and femininity. Delvaux, founded in 1829, is the oldest fne leather luxury goods house in the world. It has been the ofcial supplier to the Belgian royal court since 1883. fm Delvaux, Palais Royal, 151-154 Galerie de Valois, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)9 6719 9328, delvaux.com * for map go to page 79

CROWNING GLORY Inspired by the countless tiaras that Chaumet has crafted over the years, the Joséphine collection brings this regal symbol to the engagement ring, adapting the tiara shape to crown the hand instead of the head.

Symbolising the almost regal globalblue.com

power a woman can have over a man’s heart, the stunning rings in the Joséphine Tiara collection are made from only the fnest materials.

This platinum version is set with 1.16 carats of brilliantcut diamonds across its two adjoining bands, and features a one-carat pear-shaped violet sapphire. It is the perfect piece to present to that special someone who has captured your heart. hl

Chaumet, 12 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4477 2626, chaumet.com * for map go to page 81

THE ART OF TRAVEL

Moynat, one of the most historic luggage manufacturers in Paris, has reinvented itself for the modern age without losing sight of its roots, as Karen Munnis discovers

PHOTO: © LÉOPOLD MERCIER/ROGER-VIOLLET

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PHOTO: © THIERRY OLLIVIER

M

oynat’s luxury travel goods have been coveted by international jetsetters for more than 165 years. This Parisian label is one of the world’s oldest trunk and leather goods brands; Pauline Moynat, the only known female luggage-maker in history, launched her eponymous label in 1849.

This is not the only way the company has been a pioneer. Long before Hermès named a bag after actress Jane Birkin, Moynat led the way by naming a handbag after Gabrielle Réjane, one of the stars of the Belle Époque at the turn of the 20th century. During its history, the company has also fled numerous patents, covering everything from lightweight luggage to waterproofng, and it has designed trunks for every mode of travel, from limousines to trains.

Pauline Moynat arrived in Paris at the age of 16 and made her living selling travel goods in the city’s Opéra district. She soon teamed up with the Coulembier family, leather goods manufacturers from the northern suburbs of Paris. In 1869 they opened their frst boutique at place du Théâtre Français (now place AndréMalraux). The shop was across the street from the famous Comédie-Française theatre and

Previous page: Moynat Train scarf by Pharrell Williams

giuseppe zanotti design

shop at www.giuseppezanottidesign.com

Fall-Winter 2015

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age and in 2015 a smaller, compact version of the original leather style was re-released.

In 1906, Moynat started what was to become a long and successful collaboration with the artist Henri Rapin. He frst worked on a series of black and white luggage stickers featuring a train motif. Next he designed Moynat’s signature print of repeated Ms that would become the brand’s trademark and feature across its product range. In 1925, Rapin designed a red Moroccan-inspired trunk, featuring studs and a palm leaf motif, Prevous page (from top): avenue de l’Opéra in Paris, where Moynat’s frst store relocated, 1876; trunks made in 1917

Above (clockwise from top): Moynat archive advertisement, 1929; Train bag designed by Pharrell Williams; the brand’s Réjane bag

PHOTO: (MIDDLE) © DAVID ATLAN

Moynat soon became its ofcial supplier.

The theatre strongly inspired Pauline Moynat’s work, but it was her friendship with Belle Époque actress Gabrielle Réjane that cemented the brand’s status in the arts world.

Réjane was a rising star and a muse to many design houses, including Moynat, and the house created the Réjane bag in her honour at the beginning of the 20th century. It has become one of Moynat’s most iconic bags; in 2011, the brand’s artistic director Ramesh Nair redesigned the classic city bag for the modern

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Anyone carrying a piece by Moynat will always be travelling in style which was awarded the certifcate of honour at L’Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes (the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts) in Paris.

Moynat has continued to collaborate with a wide range of international brands. It has worked with cosmetic and perfume brand Guerlain to create a blue beauty case for the Orient Express, and has joined forces with Jaguar to produce Le Malle Jaguar, a trunk ftted with an electric scooter that is designed to be stored inside a Jaguar F-type convertible.

From its beginnings, the brand has efortlessly combined beautiful, handcrafted design with innovation and functionality. In 1854, it created the frst waterproof covering for its cases, using gutta-percha, a tropical sap.

This was followed, in 1870, by the patented malle Anglaise (English trunk), a lightweight wicker trunk that was designed for travel between France and England and became increasingly popular when weight restrictions were introduced for luggage.

Moynat has always ensured it remains relevant to the times by customising its trunks

for the evolving automotive industry. In 1902, the house designed a trunk specifcally for limousines – its concave shape sat perfectly on the roof of the car. In addition, all its trunks could be custom designed to match the interior or exterior, as well as the contour, of any vehicle.

The company’s current collections take inspiration from its origins in pieces such as the mini vanity case, which is modelled after its famous trunks. This modern evening bag and wristlet is a miniaturised replica of Moynat’s more historic designs and is handmade using traditional techniques such as angle stitching, an ancient French crafting method. Most recently, the brand has worked with singersongwriter Pharrell Williams to create a series of train-shaped bags and clutches.

Moynat closed its doors in 1976 but in 2011 reopened on rue Saint-Honoré under LVMH ownership. Since its renaissance, the house has opened stores in London and Hong Kong and continues to produce handcrafted designs of the highest standard. Anyone carrying a piece

by Moynat will always be travelling in style moynat.com

Above (from lef): Moynat mini vanity case; the beauty trunk designed exclusively for the Orient Express

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S H O P | 51

The world’s most style-conscious men look to Paris for sartorial guidance. Ruairidh Pritchard picks out this season’s main trends

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

MEN OF THE MOMENT London’s men’s fashion week is a beacon for new talent and quintessential British tailoring; Milan sets the stage for a host of theatrical Italian designer oferings. But Paris, acknowledged as the fashion capital of the world, does men’s fashion week like no other city, ofering an eclectic mix of international brands and French fashion houses, all showing the best that menswear has to ofer.

This season was no exception, with some of the world’s best and most fashion-forward designers descending on the French capital and taking over the city’s famous palaces, galleries and hip warehouse spaces. From this fashion melting pot emerged trends that will be dictating international men’s fashion in the coming months.

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It would be hard to deny that the key colour for autumn/winter 2015/16 is black.

Used as both a foundation and a focus, black dominated collections by some of the most infuential Parisian designers, including Givenchy. The brand sent models down the catwalk with faces adorned with glitter and ghostly skulls, making it clear there was a strong gothic aesthetic at play.

The most explicit sign of a new gothic wave was the opening look of American designer Thom Browne. A sharp-suited, veiled undertaker led a funeral cortège of models, all dressed in impeccably tailored suits, their porcelain-white faces just visible under black lace veils. Other designers’ gothic creations Lef: Christian Dada autumn/winter 2015/16

were similarly striking. Japanese brand Julius presented a collection of padded down jackets with fastenings reminiscent of straitjackets and peaked shoulders that combined to create a menacing look.

While some collections worked to a strictly monochrome colour palette, others contrasted their largely black collections with occasional bursts of bright colour. The collection of German-Persian designer Boris Bidjan Saberi featured oversized black caped coats paired with bright red leather boots, gloves and deerstalker caps, while pinafore aprons in the same shade of shocking red were tied over understated, all-black tailoring. Parisian streetwear label Andrea Crews delivered an array of sports luxe-inspired pieces in black and orange, while Damir Doma, also based in Paris, selected yellow as its colour of choice, matching sunshine-bright, ultra-thin knits with loose, high-waisted grey slacks and black wool overcoats.

The label that truly mastered the brighton-black trend was Saint Laurent. This season’s collection by creative director Hedi Slimane included a metallic silver raincoat Above (clockwise from top lef): Givenchy; Thom Browne; Saint Laurent, all autumn/winter 2015/16

PHOTOS: Š GORUNWAY.COM

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worn over an entirely black ensemble that featured a pair of eyebrow-raising, androgynous patent leather heeled boots.

The label also debuted a show-stopping pink fur coat paired with St Laurent’s trademark drainpipe-cut leather trousers – a look that epitomised the trend.

When the runways of Paris men’s fashion week weren’t focused on black, a distinctly bohemian attitude was making waves across the city. Japanese designer Christian Dada led the charge, with patchwork fur coats, check fannel and suede panelled denim. Kolor and Miharayasuhiro both evoked a 1970s bohemian vibe: Miharayasuhiro presented an array of patchwork denim, while Kolor sent models down the runway with extra-wide scarves draped over shoulders and arms in a style reminiscent of boho ponchos.

True to form, it was Parisian fashion house Melindagloss that fully embraced the French bohemian aesthetic. In a grand townhouse on the banks of the Seine, the label presented models in loose cut, double-breasted tailoring, fowing overcoats and capes, and skull-hugging

beanie caps: a modern reinvention of boho chic.

No men’s fashion week would be complete without sharp suiting, and elegant tailoring once again proved one of the biggest trends this season. Italian luxury stalwart Valentino debuted its geometric-patterned collection with a selection of check suits in browns, creams and blues. An ensemble of glittering green shirt, jacket and trousers emblazoned with hundreds of tiny four-leaf clovers helped to close the show. The Paul Smith label injected British sartorial style into proceedings with its take on contemporary tailoring, including the surprising return of the over pronounced shoulder pad. Belgian designer Dries Van Noten’s ivory double-breasted tuxedo drew nods of admiration from those in the front row.

However, it was French fashion powerhouse Dior that reigned supreme with its collection of superbly cut formalwear. The classic threepiece tuxedo was updated by razor-sharp, pleated straight-cut trousers worn with singlebreasted one-button and double-breasted two-button tuxedo jackets adorned with foral badges. Similarly, the label’s outerwear

Above (from lef): Andrea Crews; Melindagloss, both autumn/winter 2015/16

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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By playing host to some of the most diverse and innovative menswear designers from across the globe, Paris men’s fashion week has marked itself out as the place to turn to for the latest trends in men’s fashion design ofering saw classic coats brought up to date with an ankle-skimming overcoat in deep plum. Shorter coats featured houndstooth with navy and neon-yellow detailing catching the eye, before the arrival of a show-stopping yellow printed overcoat – the collection’s biggest statement.

By playing host to some of the most diverse and innovative menswear designers from across the globe, Paris men’s fashion week has marked itself out as the place to turn to for the latest trends in men’s fashion design. And while the trends may be as varied as the designers on the schedule, it’s clear that the gothic, bohemian and tailored looks that triumphed in the fashion capital are set to take the menswear world by storm givenchy.com, thombrowne.com, julius-garden.jp, borisbidjansaberi.com, andreacrews.com, damirdoma.com, ysl.com, christiandada.jp, miharayasuhiro.jp, kolor.jp, melindagloss.com, valentino.com, paulsmith.co.uk, driesvannoten.be, dior.com Above (from top): Kolor; Dior, both autumn/winter 2015/16

PHOTO: LUC BOEGLY

NEW VISIONS

From new restaurants to the reinvention of historic fashion houses, Paris is undergoing a cultural renaissance, says Harriet Quick

PHOTO: ESTROP BARCELONA

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I

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PHOTO: INDIGITALIMAGES.COM

t’s hard to pinpoint why a city alters its mood: the reasons can be as random as the fight of a butterfy. Lately the breeze of change has been blowing through Paris and a vibrant, revitalised capital is emerging. A new breed of entrepreneur is putting down roots, bold new faces are heading up stalwart luxury labels and it’s even possible now to fnd a taxi late at night.

Being able to travel around the city with ease has in itself liberated Parisian residents and visitors – there has never been a better time to explore the city.

‘There’s a new energy in Paris – an electricity and a sense that things can be achieved,’ asserts nightclub entrepreneur André Saraiva, who has accommodated the city’s penchant for after-hours activities for the best part of a decade, setting up nightclub Le Baron and reviving exclusive nightspot Chez Castel along the way. Working in music, photography Previous page: the Sonia Rykiel fagship store on boulevard Saint-Germain

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

S H O P | 59

and as a grafti artist, Saraiva is a prime example of the new breed of hyper-connected, polymath talents who are making reinvention their business.

This energy is also coursing through fashion houses and brands, from high-end established labels to start-ups. Nowhere is this clearer than in Nicolas Ghesquière’s newly invigorated Louis Vuitton. Ghesquière has rebuilt the label’s DNA around the idea of Louis Vuitton as ‘the house of adventure.’

This concept is clearly manifest in his ingenious collections, which carefully fuse retro and futuristic sensibilities, haute luxury and street-level cool.

‘There’s no ghost – it’s about today.

At Louis Vuitton there is patrimony and a strong history but also this name that is free and completely contemporary. This is fresh and inspiring to me,’ says Ghesquière, who has infused a sense of efortless cool into his collections. For autumn/winter 2015/16, for example, 1980s-inspired leather trousers were slipped under outsized fur coats and paired with shiny silver trunk-shaped bags.

Ghesquière is whisking away the structures of old, with their impenetrable sense of uptight chic. This can also be seen at Sonia Rykiel, the leading knitwear label founded on the Left Bank in the late 1960s. Creative director Julie de Libran has revamped the brand’s fagship store on boulevard Saint-Germain, in collaboration with art director Thomas Lenthal. The result is a stunning salon, with rows of vintage books lining red lacquer shelves.

‘Sonia Rykiel was very attentive to what was going on in the street and in culture, and Saint-Germain was a hotbed for the arts. I want to bring that energy back to the boutique – make it a place to hang out,’ says de Libran of her new vision. ‘I love the emotion you get from clothes, the memories – it’s like listening to a song.’ The designer’s autumn/winter 2015/16 collection taps into our appetite for nostalgia, with 1970s-tinged knitted fur coats, buttonfront suede fares and Breton-striped sweaters.

A new guard of Parisian designers is emerging, such as 25-year-old Simon Porte Jacquemus, who has twice been nominated

Above (from lef): Louis Vuiton; Sonia Rykiel; Jacquemus, all autumn/winter 2015/16

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for the prestigious LVMH Prize. Jacquemus, from the south-east of France, is a self-taught talent. He takes inspiration from the rebellious kind of beauties that you might fnd hanging out in the street wearing mismatched, streetsavvy ensembles: cue collage-style dresses with surrealist hand-shaped straps clasped over the chest.

Eyes are also on Wanda Nylon, a niche outerwear label specialising in PVC, and the tailoring, denims and leathers of Each x Other. Created by Ilan Delouis and Jenny

Mannerheim, Each x Other also collaborates with artists, writers and musicians on capsule collections. The reconstructed designs of emerging label Vetements, headed by Demna Gvasalia, are also garnering a cult following worldwide. Pieces include outsized tailoring and reconfgured freman’s salopettes.

Paris is also home to a burgeoning neofoodie scene. Claus Estermann, a former press ofcer for Givenchy, opened his own organic grocery and breakfast spot, Claus: L’Épicerie du Petit-Déjeuner, in 2011, in response to a growing demand for more exciting places to eat. In formerly neglected neighbourhoods, restaurants and bars are now popping up everywhere, including Ratapoil du Faubourg, which opened last year just a 10-minute walk from the Gare du Nord.

From fashion to dance foors to eateries, Paris is embarking on one big adventure.

Why not join in? louisvuitton.com, soniarykiel.com, jacquemus.com, wandanylon.fr, each-other.com, vetementswebsite.com, claus-paris.net, ratapoildufaubourg.fr Above (from top): Julie de Libran, Sonia Rykiel’s creative director; a light, delicious plate from Claus: L’Épicerie du Petit-Déjeuner

PHOTO: (TOP) © DAVID BAILEY

From fashion to dance floors to eateries, Paris is embarking on a big new adventure

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TABLE TALK

Paris’s brightest female chefs are making their mark in the city, as Isabella Redmond Styles discovers

As an international capital of gastronomy, Paris is renowned for the chefs that live and work in the city. Culinary greats such as Alain Ducasse, Joël Robuchon and Alain Passard have all brought critical acclaim to the Paris restaurant scene, but there has arguably been a lack of female chefs in the limelight – until now.

An increasing number of supremely talented female chefs are making their mark in the French capital, creating a buzz as they open exciting restaurants in some of the city’s most up-and-coming districts. They favour a simple, no-frills approach to décor in their restaurants, allowing for full concentration on favourful food. The attitude is refreshingly pared-back; rather than using fancy techniques to impress, these chefs place the utmost importance on top-quality ingredients and imaginative combinations. The atmosphere in their restaurants is informal and intimate, and the menus are likely to change on a frequent, if not daily, basis. The result is fantastic modern cooking, very often at more than reasonable prices, in unpretentious, highly enjoyable settings. globalblue.com

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PHOTO: EDOUARD SEPULCHRE

L E S E RVA N Le Servan is a joint venture for sisters Tatiana and Katia Levha; Tatiana is in charge of the food while Katia runs the front of house. Tatiana Levha trained with Pascal Barbot of Astrance and Alain Passard of L’Arpège. Her approach at Le Servan is scaled back in comparison, but her talent certainly is not. For lunch, the restaurant ofers a threecourse set menu of starter, main course and dessert.

The evening à la carte menu includes nibbles, starters, main courses and cheese or dessert. Both menus change daily, but previous hits include fried black pudding wontons with a sweet chilli sauce, raw mackerel with celery and rhubarb, veal tartare with smoked vinegar, and a seared guinea fowl stufed with a magnifcent ginger and cashew butter.

Le Servan, 32 rue Saint-Maur, 75011 Paris, +33 (0)1 5528 5182, leservan.com

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The Buvette wine bar and bistro seems quintessentially Parisian so it’s perhaps surprising to learn that it frst launched in New York before opening a second branch in Paris’s Pigalle district. The intimate space combines the elegance of an old-world café with the informality of a neighbourhood hangout and the result is a place that’s wonderfully inviting at any time of the day, whether you’re in search of a great cup of cofee or a late-night drink.

Chef Jody Williams describes Buvette as a ‘gastrothèque’ and small plates are the order of the day, all day. From hearty breakfasts of egg and bacon or French toast to more substantial mains like rabbit conft with cèpes or duck rillettes with a fruit conft, Buvette’s food is always excellent – as are the wine list and the classic cocktails.

HAI KAI Hai Kai chef Amélie Darvas developed her culinary skill at Le Bristol, L’Ami Jean and The Broken Arm before settling at Hai Kai near the Canal Saint-Martin. Behind a gritty, grafti-decorated exterior, the interior is bright and tastefully, minimally furnished. There’s a prix-fxe daily menu in addition to an à la carte ofering and diners can enjoy plates globalblue.com

PHOTO: IBUVETTE

BUVETTE

Buvette, 28 rue Henry Monnier, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 4463 4171, buvette.com

that pack a favourful punch, such as veal sweetbreads with cacao and tonka beans, orzo with clams and a grapefruit reduction, and a heady coconut-lime crème brulee. Those with a smaller appetite will appreciate the snacks on ofer, which include Puglian burrata, Italian charcuterie, sardines from Galicia and Ardèche saucisson, all of which keep hunger at bay in the tastiest way.

Hai Kai, 104 quai de Jemmapes, 75010 Paris, +33 (0)9 8199 9888, haikai.fr

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C O R E T TA

Coretta is run by Mexican chef Beatriz Gonzalez, formerly of Neva Cuisine, and her husband Matthieu Marcant. The restaurant, part of a repurposed freight yard, is located in the up-andcoming Clichy-Batignolles neighbourhood and looks out over the pretty Martin Luther King park – the restaurant is named after his wife.

Diners will fnd a sparse, chic interior that allows what’s on the plate to be the focus of attention.

The food is innovative and delicious; dishes such as duck with aubergine three ways or an amusebouche of artichoke purée and crushed pistachios on fatbread are imaginative and favourful. The decent selection of wines by the glass and ofering of botanas (Spanish snacks) make Coretta a great place for an evening drink too.

Coretta, 151 bis Rue Cardinet, 75017 Paris, +33 (0)1 4226 5555, coretta.fr

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STAY IN STYLE The world’s fnest hotels boast desirable locations, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas. SHOP shares its pick of some of the best

ROSA GRAND Set in the heart of Milan’s historic centre, the Rosa Grand hotel exudes Italian elegance throughout each of its 330 rooms. There are three room types available; all refect the inherent sense of style which Milan is known for, without sacrifcing comfort, and ofer impressive views globalblue.com

across Piazza Fontana to the Duomo. Be sure to dine at one of the hotel’s three restaurants, all operated in partnership with Eataly. Choose between Roses, Sfzio and the Grand Lounge and bar – all combine the highest-quality produce with Italian culinary traditions.

Rosa Grand, Piazza Fontana 3, 20122 Milan, +39 02 88311, starhotels.com

PHOTO: DANI ROVIRA

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THE SERRAS Located on the site of Pablo Picasso’s frst studio, the newly opened Serras hotel has quickly become one of Barcelona’s most stylish places to stay. This fve-star boutique hotel ofers 28 large rooms, each boasting modern, understated décor, state-of-the-art technology

and private balconies. The Catalan-inspired menu ofered by Michelin-starred chef Marc Gascons is sure to impress, while the infnity pool on the rooftop terrace is one of the city’s most sought-after spots.

The Serras, Passeig de Colom 9, 08002 Barcelona, +34 93 169 1868, hoteltheserrasbarcelona.com

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ROYAL PLAZA ON SCOTTS A perfect base in Singapore whether you are travelling for business or leisure, the Royal Plaza on Scotts has an ideal location on Orchard Road.

The hotel’s 511 comfortable rooms are equipped with every imaginable luxury, from rain showers

globalblue.com

and Nespresso gourmet cofee machines to free Wi-Fi and pillow menus. The hotel is vast; a fully equipped gym, hair salon and rooftop terrace with swimming pool compete for attention with two restaurants, the Carousel bufet, with its extensive seafood selection, and Artisan Cupcakes, which ofers an array of sweet treats.

Royal Plaza on Scotts, 25 Scotts Road, Singapore, +65 6737 7966, royalplaza.com.sg

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Join Global Blue for free, explore your city, ďŹ nd the best stores, and save up to 12% on everything you buy. globalblue.com/join

G U I D E | 71

GUIDE

PHOTO: SÉBASTIEN DERVIEUX

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Paris with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a fabulous fashion boutique to a salon with state-of-the-art beauty products. Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/paris

A GLIMPSE OF PARIS Above: the classically designed place Vendôme is home to fagship stores of the most prestigious jewellers in the world

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S H O P | 73

MOULIN ROUGE

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SHOP’S HIGHLIGHTS

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PID

RAMBUTEAU

NOTRE DAME DE PARIS

MABILLON ODEON CLUNY - LA SORBONNE MAUBERT - MUTUALITÉ

globalblue.com

Moynat Moynat’s beautifully made trunks and other luggage are a welcome reminder of the golden age of travel.

Moynat, 348 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4703 8390, moynat.com featured on page 42

*

HOTEL DE VILLE HÔTEL

OU

SAINT-GERMAIN -DES-PRÉS SAINT-MICHEL

Delvaux Snap up Belgian brand Delvaux’s exquisite leather goods in the brand’s first Paris boutique.

Delvaux, Palais Royal, 151-154 Galerie de Valois, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)9 6719 9328, delvaux.com featured on page 41

* 3

CHÂTELET

CITÉ

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GARE DE L'EST

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Guerlain Discover Guerlain’s fragrant history and enticing products in its renovated and expanded flagship store.

Guerlain, 68 avenue des ChampsÉlysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4562 5257, guerlain.com featured on page 38

4

SAINT-PAUL PONT MARIE

Saint Laurent Men can master nonchalant Parisian style by taking a lead from Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent, 53 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5383 8453, ysl.com featured on page 50

*

74 | G U I D E

‘Paris is the perfect getaway at any time of year – discover treasures on every corner, from the imposing Notre-Dame cathedral to amazing patisseries’ – Kirsty Andrews, SHOP’s picture editor

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PHOTOS: KIRSTY ANDREWS

SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

S H O P | 75

Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopcontent. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

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76 | G U I D E

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Place Of Interest

Metro

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78 | G U I D E

DUNHILL Dunhill has long been associated with quintessential British style and the menswear brand frequently draws on its heritage for inspiration. Creative director John Ray chose to reference the creative spirit of London’s louche Soho district in the 1950s and 60s in the brand’s autumn/winter 2015/16 collection. The brand’s signature

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sharp tailoring is given a rafsh twist with boxy plaid jackets, corduroy blazers and fur overcoats. Clashing colour stripes are a key print, seen on everything from pyjama-style trousers to knitted ties and sweaters, lending an of-beat sense of style to the whole collection.

Alfred Dunhill, 15 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4261 6194, dunhill.com * for map go to page 81

P.41

● KRIS VAN ASSCHE

Featured In This Issue

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● TECHNICA ● NODUS ● CECILE ET JEANNE ● L'EQUIPÉE ANGLAISE ● TOUS

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SANDRO ●

● ● ● ●

LANVIN HOMME ● SERGIO ROSSI ● CARITA ● LA BAGAGER IE ● BERLU TI ● MONCL ER ● PANERAI ● DOLCE & GABBAN A ● SARTORE ● PAUL SMITH ● P.40 MIU MIU ●

P.34

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE JITROIS SAINT LAURENT YVES SALOMON ARAMIS

● LANVI N FEMME ● LA PERLA ERMAN NO ● SCERV INO ● BOTTE GA VENETA ● CAMPE R ● LORO PIANA ● PRADA ● PINKO ● GUCCI

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● JUN ASHIDA ● SAINT LAURENT ● BOUCHERON

● ● ● ● ●

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GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● RENE CAOVILLA ●

HEURGON ● OSCAR CARVALLO ●

LANCÔME ● VALENTINO ●

ROGER VIVIER ●

● BLUGIRL ● BLUMARIN E ● BURBERRY ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● DAMIR DOMA ● MOSCHINO ● HOGAN ● ERMENEGI LDO ZEGNA ● LEONARD ● SALVATOR E FERRAGAM O

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COLETTE ● CHANTAL THOMASS ● COSMOPARIS ● TOSCA BLU ● PENHALIGON’S ● MULBERRY ● PEUTEREY ● FRAGONARD ● P.81 LA PRAIRIE ●

VILEBREQUIN ● FURLA ● MICHAEL KORS ● & OTHER STORIES ● P.34 MULBERRY ● VALENTINO ●

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PAULE KA ● 7 FOR ALL MANKIND ●

S H O P | 79

Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré

Rue Saint-Honoré West

Rue Saint-Honoré East

DELVAU X ●

BRUCE FIELD ●

80 | G U I D E

Rue Tronchet, Place de la Madeleine, Boulevard Malesherbes, Rue Boissy d’Anglas, Boulevard de la Madeleine & Rue Royale GUERLAIN ●

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AUBADE ● ETAM LINGERIE ● CARETTA ● ARTHUR ●

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● SIA NINE WEST ●

● GAP

UN JOUR AILLEURS ● DJULA ●

FAURÉ LE PAGE ●

● LE JACQUARD FRANÇAIS HERVÉ CHAPELIER ● LES ATELIERS DE LA MAILE ● TOM FORD ●

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RUE SAINT-HONORÉ ● POIRAY ● LACHAUME ● CORINA ● ROYAL QUARTZ ● EMILE LÉON ● O J PERRIN ● HAVILAND / DAUM ● ARTHUS BERTRAND

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● CHRISTO FL E ● TARTI NE ET CHOCOLAT ● REPETTO ● LAL IQUE ● ZIMM ERLI ● BAU ME ET M ERCIER ● M A S SI M O DUTTI ● LERY ● STARK & SONS ● DINH VAN ● BURMA ● FRED ● KORLOFF ● FOLLI FOLLIE ● BREITLING ● JAQ U E T DROZ ● BREG UE T ● ROLEX ● TIFFANY & CO. ● H ARRY WI N STON ● DAUM ● T ECLA VACHERO N VA ● CONSTANT IN SANO E CA

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Global Blue Refund Point

Featured In This Issue

ROLEX ● JAEGER LECOULTRE ●

● CHANEL ● PIAGET ● SWATCH ● CHAUMET ● HUBLOT PATEK ● PHILIPPE

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Place Vendôme

Technologically advanced and a joy to use, it’s little wonder that La Prairie skincare is a staple for some of the world’s most discerning beauty fans. One of its latest innovations is the new White Caviar Illuminating Moisturizing Cream, a welcome addition to the White Caviar Collection. The moisturiser is designed to brighten and frm the skin’s appearance, helping to fade pigmentation and provide intense hydration. Used morning and night, it helps to halt pigment production, keeping skin bright and clear, as well as protecting it from environmental aggressors.

La Prairie, 199 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4221 1872, laprairie.com * for map go to page 79

A N IE

R PE AR ● CHARVET F& ● M26 VENDOME EE L ● BOUCHERO N NC VA ● ● BLANCPAIN

CHOPARD ●

RUE SAIN T-H O N O R É

● GUERLAIN

RUE SAIN T-HO NOR É

LS

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Boulevard Saint-Germain, Rue Saint-Sulpice, Rue du Four, Rue de Sèvres & Rue de Grenelle AU VIEUX CAMPEUR: 48 RUE DES ÉCOLES (1KM) ● MAXIMILIEN ● CAROLL ●

ISABEL MARANT ●

TARA JARMON ●

TED ● BAKER CANDY ROCKETS ● ● LES PETITES FA EMPORIO B R PARISIENNES ● ● ARMANI IC Brasserie D I AE P O M FAÇONNABLE ● MA Lipp N T D ’A P I GERARD DAREL ● ISS ● ● CARON PARIS F SHU UEMURA ● BIL REEL IMO ● ● MARIONNAUD LER AN COMPTOIR MA CE ● DES COTONNIERS ● ● ARTHUR & FOX RK MURAT ● ET ● JUST CAMPAGNE ● MAUBOUSSIN ● IK AL AM KS ● LIU JO ● BR ● BURBERRY IC ●

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CARLOTI ● ● HEYRAUD PATRICK ROGER ● ● LA POINTURE THEA SO SWEET ● ● COSMO ● KINZA VANGELDER JOAILLIER ● ● PATRICK GERARD CHRISTIAN ● ANNAH LACROIX ● ● LA CENTRALE LOLA ● ● SILK & CASHMERE SAINT ● BEL AIR LAURENT ● ● PETIT BATEAU ● WHAT FOR ANNICK GOUTAL ●

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● FRANCIS KLEIN ● ITALIA INDEPENDENT ● HOTEL PARTICULIER ● REPETTO ● PATAUGAS ● TIMBERLAND ● CORIOLAN ● SEIDENSTICKER

MABILLON

ELEVEN PARIS ● DARMON ● LES PETITES ● AN’GE ● CAREL ● DU PAREIL AU MÊME ● ●L BOSS ● ● D ODIN ● N ARM G ● A ANIE ON IGL E

BOUL EVAR D RASPAIL

SÈVRES - BABYLONE

Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Restaurant

Metro

Department Store

Le Bon March é

Place Of Interest

S H O P | 83

RU

EB

RU E D U FO UR

S WA R OV SKI APO ● STR OPH E● ART FA B ● AG HUS R IC A E● BER ● TE THA T RAN REM D D● IN IS ● SE BAKER CEN CE ● IKO D IN H VA N LES M ● ● C IT D ID IE O N T R E S Y PH ● R GU ARM E R IN A ●

Fans of Chopard’s distinctive Imperiale collection will be delighted by the recent addition of a new jewellery-inspired timepiece, the Imperiale 36mm Joaillerie.

Its 18-carat white gold case and motherof-pearl dial are both adorned with diamonds, making the watch perfect for evening, while the minimalist grey and silver colour scheme keeps it looking truly modern: this is understated glamour at its best.

Chopard, 72 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4266 6730, chopard.com * for map go to page 79

MA X ●M MAR AND NES A● A R IN ●M PRE A DU MA A X& SS CK MOI S T E L R C O ‘P O O ● LO ● LA F ORE PEN ● S T NYB P R IN L AC K ● C ● T IK ESS BER E N IC ● ● Z A I T IH AWE TA M .T E LES AM A ● G A PA P E T IT J O S E P ● H● RELL S HA ● IV A U LE T ● N A O IR E D E L S AT E L IE S ● A MA ● A R T H A L IE IL R S ● B A M A N D V C H A IZ E K IR L E ● P IE R ENT RE H ANE ● ● IN & S H IL L O ERM ● M D IE S K IE H É ● L’S ● ● C OIN E L L I ● M S M O PA C O M IK A S A R R IS ● C P T O IR D O L E A OTO N N IE E S RS

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LA VALLÉE VILLAGE Located just 35 minutes from the centre of Paris, adjacent to Disneyland Paris, La Vallée Village plays host to 110 luxury boutiques as well as to the Espace ® La Vallée Village contemporary art gallery. Each boutique typically ofers shoppers discounts of a minimum of 33% of regular retail prices.

La Vallée Village, 3 cours de la Garonne, 77700 Serris, +33 (0)1 6042 3501, lavalleevillage.com Opening times Monday-Sunday: 10am-7pm

globalblue.com

DON’T MISS…

Shopping day This exclusive package includes: • Return tickets for the Shopping Express ® luxury coach service from central Paris to the village • A VIP card providing a further 10% saving on purchases in six boutiques of your choice • Lunch at Pret A Manger • A €50 gift voucher to spend at a store of your choice

S H O P | 85

Ximena Daneri, SHOP’s fashion editor, describes a perfect day at La Vallée Village

PERFECT DAY 10am Start the day admiring the signature style of Sonia Rykiel’s collections. Be sure to pick up one of the label’s sweaters, whose prints are instantly recognisable.

HOW TO GET THERE Shopping Express® coach service La Vallée Village’s Shopping Express® service ofers six daily departures from place des Pyramides, Étoile/ Porte Maillot and place du Trocadéro.

More information on lavalleevillage.com/ shoppingexpress.

By car from Paris Take the A4 motorway, exit at junction 12.1 and follow the signs to La Vallée Village; 2,300 free spaces mean parking is never a problem.

By car from Reims

3pm

12pm

Longchamp’s range of luggage, handbags and accessories has an international reputation for craftsmanship, creativity and design, with a playful edge.

Take a break at Pret A Manger which serves a selection of flled baguettes, crisp salads, fresh soups and a selection of ethically sourced organic cofees.

4pm

6pm

Perfect a look of understated cool by visiting The Kooples.

The label’s collections combine vintage-inspired pieces with classic tailoring to create an androgynous style that is sure to stand out.

End your day admiring the footwear and luxury leather goods available at Tod’s. The company is best known for its Gommino moccasin, made by hand and featuring 133 pins in its rubber sole.

Leave the A4 at exit 14 and follow the signs for Marne-la-Vallée/Val d’Europe and then for Centre Commercial/ Entrée A. By train The closest TGV train station is Marne-laVallée-Chessy/Parc Disney station. By RER train, take line A and exit at Val d’Europe/Serris Montévrain station.

La Vallée Village is a 10-minute walk away.

A shuttle bus runs from Val d’Europe station to La Vallée Village every Sunday.

86

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

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When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your Tax Free Forms stamped before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.

Spend a minimum of €175.01 and save up to 12% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

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Galeries Lafayete 40 boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris UME Galerie du Claridge, 74 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris UME Galerie 66 66 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris UME Galerie Élysées du 26 26 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris Bucherer 12 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris

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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 42: The Art Of Travel

Искусство Путешествий Легендарный парижский производитель чемоданов Moynat провел масштабную модернизацию, чтобы отвечать требованиям современной эпохи, не потеряв приверженность традициям, – рассказывает Карен Мьюннис Роскошные саквояжи и дорожные принадлежности Moynat уже 165 лет пользуются успехом у туристов разных стран. Эта парижская марка - один из старейших в мире производителей кожаных чемоданов. Полин Мойнэ – единственная женщина среди известных производителей чемоданов за всю историю индустрии. Свою одноименную компанию она основала еще в 1849 году. Задолго до того, как Hermès создал одну из своих сумок для актрисы Джейн Биркин, Moynat выпустил сумку, назвав ее в честь одной из звезд èрекрасной эпохи начала 20 века – Габриель Режан. С момента своего появления компания успела зарегистрировать многочисленные патенты на свои изделия, включая водоотталкивающие ткани и облегченные чемоданы для всех видов поездок, от лимузина до поезда. èолин Мойнэ приехала в èариж, когда ей было всего 16 лет, а зарабатывала она на жизнь, продавая аксессуары для путешествий в районе Opéra. Вскоре ей удалось начать совместное дело с семьей Колембьер, имеющей свою мастерскую по производству кожаных изделий на севере èарижа. В 1869 году они открыли свой первый бутик на площади du Téâtre Français (ныне André-Malraux). Он находился как раз напротив знаменитого театра Comédie-Française, и вскоре Moynat стал его официальным поставщиком. Театр неоднократно вдохновлял èолин Мойнэ, однако дружба с актрисой Габриель Режан стала ключевым фактором, обеспечившим бренду особый статус в мире искусства. Режан была globalblue.com

восходящей звездой и служила музой для многих домов моды, включая Moynat, именно поэтому бренд решил посвятить актрисе свою сумку Réjane в начале 20-х годов. çтот аксессуар стал одним из ключевых изделий бренда. В 2011 году художественный руководитель Moynat - Рамеш Наир - воссоздал классический дизайн сумки, а в 2015 году появилась новая, более компактная версия легендарной модели. В 1906 году Moynat начал свое продолжительное и успешное сотрудничество с художником âнри Рапеном. Его первым вкладом стала серия монохромных наклеек для чемоданов с железнодорожным мотивом. Следующим шагом стала разработка фирменного принта с буквой М, который впоследствии стал официальной торговой маркой бренда. В 1925 году Рапен создал дизайн чемодана в марокканском стиле – с металлическими шипами и узором из пальмовых ветвей, за который компания была награждена почетной грамотой на Всемирной выставке в èариже.

Moynat продолжает сотрудничать со многими международными брендами. Так, совместно с парфюмерным брендом Guerlain Moynat разработали голубой чемодан для путешествий на роскошном поезде «Восточный экспресс», а с автомобильным производителем Jaguar - чемодан ручной работы Le Malle Jaguar, идеально помещающийся в багажник машины

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Jaguar F-type с откидным верхом. С самого начала бренд старался сочетать эстетику, ручную отделку, инновации и функциональность. В 1854 году марка впервые представила водонепроницаемые гуттаперчевые чехлы для своих чемоданов. В 1870 году последовало создание запатентованного malle Anglaise (Английский чемодан) – легкого плетеного чемодана, предназначенного для поездок между Францией и Англией. Он приобрел значительную популярность, в том числе в силу введенных ограничений на вес багажа.

Moynat всегда заботился о том, чтобы идти в ногу со временем. В 1902 году, с началом развития автомобильной индустрии, компания начала выпуск чемоданов, предназначенных специально для лимузинов – особая изогнутая форма позволяла идеально закрепить его на крыше автомобиля. Вдобавок, цвет чемодана можно было подобрать в тон и контур любого транспортного средства. Текущие коллекции компании основаны на самых ранних моделях Moynat. Например, новая сумка Mini Vanity была создана по образу знаменитого чемодана. Эта стильная вечерняя сумка с ремешком для запястья представляет собой миниатюрную реплику легендарного дизайна Moynat и выполнена вручную при помощи старинной французской техники угловой строчки. Совсем недавно бренд представил коллаборацию с певцом Фареллом Уильямсом, в результате которой была создана серия сумок и клатчей в форме поездов. Компания Moynat приостановила свою работу в 1976 году, но в 2011 открылась вновь на бульваре Saint-Honoré, став частью корпорации LVMH. После чего новые бутики бренда открылись в Лондоне и Гонконге, при этом непревзойденные изделия все также отвечают высочайшим стандартам качества. Любая поездка с сумкой Moynat превратится в стильное путешествие. moynat.com

50: Men Of The Moment

Стильные Духом

Самые стильные мужчины мира в выборе одежды ориентируются на Париж. Руайрид Притчард исследовал главные тенденции этого сезона globalblue.com

Неделя мужской моды в Лондоне притягивает новые таланты и будущих специалистов по английскому костюму; Милан знаменит своими дизайнерами высокой моды. Ну а Париж, считающийся мировой столицей моды, проводит самые масштабные Недели мужской моды, предлагая эклектичный выбор международных брендов и лучшие образы французских домов моды. Нынешний сезон не стал исключением. В столицу Франции съехались лучшие представители модной элиты, оккупируя местные дворцы, галереи и выставочные площадки. В этом творческом синергизме родились тенденции, которые будут направлять мужскую моду в ближайшие месяцы. Напрасно будет отрицать, что ключевым цветом сезона осень-зима 2015 стал черный. Такой выбор был сделан как для базового оттенка, так и для ключевых деталей в коллекциях самых влиятельных парижских дизайнеров, включая Givenchy. Лица многих моделей были украшены блестками и призрачными черепами, давая понять, что культ смерти еще не исчез с модных подиумов. Наиболее ярким примером новой волны готики стал открывающий образ американского дизайнера Тома Брауна. Одетый в строгий костюм гробовщик возглавил похоронную процессию из моделей в черном. Их мертвенно-бледные лица едва проглядывали из-под скорбных вуалей. Готические шедевры других дизайнеров были не менее шокирующими. Японский бренд Julius представил коллекцию пуховиков с застежками, напоминающих смирительные рубашки, а также черные куртки с острыми плечами, придающими образу зловещий вид. В то время, как некоторые коллекции ограничивались лишь монохромной палитрой, то в ряде других можно было наблюдать редкие проблески ярких оттенков. Коллекция немецкоиранского дизайнера Бориса Биджана Сабери включала черные пальто с пелериной, яркокрасные кожаные сапоги, перчатки и войлочные шляпы с двумя козырьками и ушами, а также красные фартуки, повязанные сверху черных, подчеркнуто скромных костюмов. Парижская марка уличной одежды Andrea Crews продемонстрировала превосходную серию в стиле спорт-люкс, сочетающую черный

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

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и оранжевый цвета, а бренд Damir Doma, также расположенный в Париже, представил тонкий трикотаж с широкими брюками с завышенной талией в сочетании с черными шерстяными пальто. Лучше всего выразить тренд, сочетающий черный цвет и яркие оттенки, получилось у Saint Laurent. Коллекция этого сезона, созданная под предводительством креативного директора Эди Слимана, включает серебристый дождевик в сочетании с черным трикотажем и ослепительными кожаными сапогами на каблуке. Также марка представила сногсшибательную шубу в сочетании с фирменными кожаными штанами St Laurent, – образ ставший олицетворением тренда. Когда парижские подиумы не уделяли столь много внимания черному цвету, в городе царила поистине богемская атмосфера. Японский дизайнер Кристиан Дада (Christian Dada) одним из первых нарушил тенденцию, предложив публике вязаные шубы, фланелевые рубашки и джинсы с замшевыми вставками. Kolor и Miharayasuhiro возродили атмосферу 1970-х годов: Miharayasuhiro показал серию денима в стиле пэчворк, а Kolor нарядил моделей в широкие шарфы, больше напоминающие богемные пончо. Парижскому модному дому Melindagloss удалось превосходно передать французскую богемную эстетику. Свой шоу-показ бренд организовал в стенах величественного особняка

на берегу Сены: модели прошлись по подиуму в двубортных пиджаках свободного покроя, длинных пальто и шерстяных шапочках, – своеобразное переосмысление богемного шика. Ну и конечно, ни одна Неделя моды не смогла бы обойтись без строгих и элегантных костюмов, которые, как и всегда остаются одним из главных трендов. Итальянский дом моды Valentino впервые представил публике коллекцию одежды с геометрическими узорами, куда вошли костюмы в клетку коричневых, бежевых и синих оттенков. Блестящие зеленые рубашки, пиджаки и брюки, украшенные мириадами крошечных лепестков клевера, под общие овации закрыли шоу. éнаменитый британский дизайнер Пол Смит презентовал свою новую коллекцию современных костюмов, дополненных подплечниками. Кремовые двубортные смокинги бельгийской марки Dries Van Noten также вызвали одобрительные возгласы и горячие аплодисменты зрителей. И все же явное превосходство ощущалось за легендой французской моды Dior и ее коллекциями строгой и официальной одежды. Классический смокинг «тройка» был дополнен прямыми гофрированными брюками, сочетающимися с однобортным пиджаками на одной пуговице и двубортными пиджаками на двух пуговицах, украшенными цветочными узорами. Серия классических пальто сливового цвета едва закрывала лодыжки. Более короткие варианты пальто отличались геометрическим орнаментом «гусиные лапки» и оригинальными деталями темно-синего и ярко-желтого цвета. Несомненным хитом коллекции стало бесподобное желтое пальто. Собирая у себя самых талантливых и новаторских дизайнеров со всего мира, мужская Неделя моды в Париже заслуженно считается местом, где рождаются главные тренды. И хотя все они многообразны и не похожи друг на друга, очевидно, что некоторые из них, например, богемный и официальный, обязательно будут преобладать в этом сезоне. givenchy.com, thombrowne.com, julius-garden.jp, borisbidjansaberi.com, andreacrews.com, damirdoma.com, ysl.com, christiandada.jp, miharayasuhiro.jp, kolor.jp, melindagloss.com, valentino.com, paulsmith.co.uk, driesvannoten.be, dior.com

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56: New Visions

Новые Перспективы

PHOTO: LUC BOEGLY

Париж переживает культурное возрождение: открываются новые рестораны и переосмысляются легендарные дома моды, – рассказывает Харриет Квик

Сложно понять, от чего зависит настроение города, мотивы могут быть не менее спонтанны, чем полет бабочки. В последнее время в Париже задул освежающий ветер перемен, обещая преобразить облик столицы. Уже успело вырасти новое поколение предпринимателей, модные дома сменили своих дизайнеров, а на ночных улицах появляется все больше такси. Возможность более свободно передвигаться по городу пришлась на руку, как местным жителям, так и гостям столицы – настало идеальное время для осмотра городских достопримечательностей. «В Париже ощущается новая энергетика – появилось чувство, что теперь всего можно достичь», – утверждает Андрэ Сарайва, основатель ночного клуба Le Baron и владелец другого клуба – Chez Castel. éез малого десять лет он совмещает этот прибыльный в Париже бизнес с любимыми занятиями – музыкой, фотографией и граффити. Сарайва представляет собой яркий пример нового поколения молодых и невероятно талантливых антерпренеров, которые поднимают свои предприятия на качественно новый уровень. Эта новая энергетика также пронизывает дома моды и многие бренды, от самых знаменитых до начинающих. Наиболее заметна globalblue.com

она в деятельности главного дизайнера Louis Vuitton – Николя Гескьера. Гескьер сформировал для бренда новую философию, центром которой является дух приключений. Эта концепция четко прослеживается в его талантливых коллекциях, гармонично сочетающих такие направления, как ретро и футуризм, роскошь и уличный стиль. «Нет никакого призрака из прошлого – все решает день сегодняшний. У Louis Vuitton достаточно богатое наследие и история, а также ни к чему не привязанное и абсолютно современное имя. Для меня это дополнительное вдохновение», – говорит Гескьер, которому удалось разбавить свои коллекции чувством легкой беззаботности. Например, в сезоне осень-зима 2015 можно заметить, как кожаные брюки прекрасно сочетались с шикарной шубой и сверкающими серебром сумками в форме саквояжей. Гескьер задает встряску всему старому и устоявшемуся, срывая шлак недосягаемости, за которым скрывается истинная роскошь. Похожий процесс можно наблюдать у Sonia Rykiel – ведущего трикотажного бренда, основанного на левом берегу Сены в 1960 году. Креативный директор Жюли де Либран модернизировал флагманский магазин бренда на бульваре SaintGermain, а помогал ему в этом художник Томас Ленталь. В результате получился впечатляющий интерьер с рядами старинных книг на красных лакированных полках. «У Sonia Rykiel всегда уделялось большое внимание событиям из мира искусства, ведь бульвар Saint-Germain это своеобразный интеллигентный и культурный центр Парижа. Мне хочется вернуть бутику эту атмосферу, сделать его местом для тусовок, – говорит де Либран о своих планах. – Мне нравятся ощущения, которые дарит одежда, воспоминания, которые она вызывает, – это как слушать музыку». Коллекция бренда для сезона осень-зима 2015 взывает к ностальгическим чувствам своими вязаными шубами в цветовой палитре 70-х годов, замшевыми брюками с широким клешем и свитерами в морскую полоску. Заметную популярность набирает новоиспеченный 25-летний дизайнер Симон Порт Жакмю, дважды номинированный на престижную премию молодых дизайнеров LVMH Prize. Талант-самоучка Жакмю родом из юго-

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восточной Франции. Источником вдохновения для него служит стильная уличная молодежь, сочетающая несочетаемое, например, платья с коллажами и сюрреалистическими бретельками, застегивающимися на груди. Ощутимо выделяется среди начинающих дизайнеров нишевая марка Wanda Nylon, специализирующаяся на одежде из нейлона, а также бренд Each x Other, выпускающий костюмы, джинсы и кожаные куртки. Идея создания Each x Other принадлежит Илану Делуи и Дженни Маннерхайм, которые проводят множественные коллаборации с известными художниками, писателями и музыкантами для создания своих капсульных коллекций. Многообещающие творения марки Vetements, основанной дизайнером Демной Гвасалия, также начинают завоевывать своих поклонников по всему миру. В его коллекции представлены костюмы “овер-сайз” и вольные интерпретации комбинезонов. Помимо всего прочего, Париж является центром ультрасовременной кулинарии. Клаус Эстерманн, бывший пресс-атташе Givenchy, в 2011 году открыл собственное кафе и магазин органических продуктов «Claus: L’Épicerie du Petit-Déjeuner». В прежде заброшенных районах в последнее время появляется все больше ресторанов и баров, таких как Ratapoil du Faubourg, который открылся в прошлом году всего в 10 минутах ходьбы от Gare du Nord. Одним словом, Париж – это большой парк развлечений с массой достопримечательностей: от модных бутиков и ночных клубов до восхитительных ресторанов на берегу Сены. Éак почему бы не окунуться в эту атмосферу праздника? louisvuitton.com, soniarykiel.com, jacquemus.com, wandanylon.fr, each-other.com, vetementswebsite.com, claus-paris.net

путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

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2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €175.01 и сэкономьте до 12% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. 美文翻译

42: The Art Of Travel 美丽的呼唤 Moynat是坐落于巴黎的一家有着悠久历史的箱包品牌， 它在保留优良传承的同时紧跟现代社会的步伐进行自我重 塑。Karen Munnis报道

Pauline Moynat是历史上唯一一位女性皮箱工匠， 她在1849年推出了同名行李箱品牌Moynat。165年 来，Moynat的奢华旅行用品一直受到全球各地爱好旅行 的富豪们所青睐。这个巴黎品牌也是全球最古老的皮质行 李箱品牌。

86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

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悠久的历史并不是该品牌成为行业先驱的唯一因素。 早在爱马仕（Hermès）以著名女演员 Jane Birkin命名铂金 包之前，Moynat就以十九世纪末二十世纪初法国美好年代 （Belle Époque）著名女演员Gabrielle Réjan之名命名了 一款手袋，从而开创了以名人的名字为手包命名的方式。在

Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Éак почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам

该品牌的发展历史中，它也申请了数量众多的专利，从超轻 行李箱到防水功能，无所不包；它还设计出适合任何旅行方 式的行李箱，从豪华轿车到火车。

Pauline Moynat在16岁初到巴黎，为谋生计，她在巴 黎的歌剧院区售卖旅行用品。她很快便联手城北近郊的皮

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具制造商Coulembier家族，并于1869年在法国剧院广场（

伦敦男装周是设计师新秀和经典英国裁缝业的灯塔，米兰

即现在的André-Malraux）开设了第一家商店，就坐落在

则为一大波戏剧性的意大利设计师作品搭建舞台。而巴黎

著名的法兰西喜剧剧院（Comédie-Française theatre）对

作为公认的时尚之都，这里举办的男装周也是别开生面，各

面。Moynat很快便成为剧院的正式供应商。

大国际品牌和法国时装屋纷纷展示最好的男装。

剧院给了Pauline Moynat深刻的启发，但是她与美好

一如既往，全球时尚最前沿的顶级设计师空降法国首

年代著名女演员Gabrielle Réjane的友谊巩固了该品牌在

都，占领这个城市所有著名的宫殿、画廊和时髦仓库。从这

艺术界的地位。Réjane是当时冉冉升起的一名新星，她成

个时尚熔炉里炼取出来的时尚走向将在未来几个月引领全

为许多设计品牌的灵感缪思，Moynat在20世纪初便推出

球男装。

了以她名字命名的手包。这款手包成为Moynat 最具标志性

不可否认黑色成为2015秋冬系列的流行色。作为基调

的手包之一。在2011年，该品牌艺术总监Ramesh Nair为

和焦点的黑色已经吸引了包括纪梵希在内的颇具影响力的巴

满足现代社会的需求对这款都市手包进行重新设计，并于

黎设计师。纪梵希的模特们佩戴闪亮的幽灵面具走上T台，

2015年推出了在原版基础上设计的缩小版皮包。 在1906年，Moynat与艺术家Henri Rapin开始了长

很显然，哥特美学已然强势回归时尚秀场。

期且成功的合作。他先是设计了一系列以火车为主题的黑白

特风格的浪潮。头戴面纱、身着制服的殡仪人领着一队似

行李箱贴纸，之后又为Moynat 设计了品牌标志，重复的字

乎是参加葬礼的模特，他们全部身穿完美剪裁的西装，瓷白

母M后来成为用于所有产品的品牌商标。1925年，Rapin

的面孔在黑色的面纱下若隐若现。其他设计师的哥特风作

美国设计师Thom Browne的开场秀充分展现了新哥

以摩洛哥为灵感设计了一款带有棕榈树叶和钉饰的红色行

品同样令人惊艳。日本品牌Julius为我们呈现一系列羽绒夹

李箱，这个设计在巴黎世界现代装饰与工艺博览会上获得

克，囚衣式的系带、瘦削的肩部设计打造一种凌厉的外观。

了荣誉证书。Moynat也与众多国际品牌有过合作。它曾与

在一些品牌服装遵循严格的单一色调的同时，其它品

化妆品与香水品牌Guerlain合作为“东方列车”设计了一

牌以黑色为主色调，并在此基础上轻松搭配具有冲击效果

款漂亮的蓝色化妆盒；也曾与Jaguar联手生产了一款内置电

的亮色。德国波斯混血设计师Boris Bidjan Saberi的服装

动滑板的行李箱，适用于Jaguar F型跑车，名为Le Malle

系列以大尺码的黑色斗篷外套搭配大红色的皮靴、手套和

Jaguar。

猎帽为特色。模特腰间的围裙同样采用醒目的红色，搭配全

从品牌创立之初，它就不遗余力地将创新与实用集中于

黑的缝线。巴黎街头服饰品牌Andrea Crews向观众展现

美丽的手工设计。在1854年，该品牌首次使用一种热带树汁

了一系列黑橙撞色的高级运动服装，而另一巴黎本土品牌

杜仲胶为其生产的行李箱创造了防水覆盖层。1870年，品

Damir Doma则选择黄色作为主打色，将薄透的亮色针织

牌专利产品、专为法英两国之间旅行设计的轻巧柳条旅行箱

衫与灰色高腰休闲裤和黑色羊毛大衣进行搭配。

malle Anglaise（英格兰旅行箱），随着行李限重的规定开

真正掌握亮色搭配黑色流行风向的品牌是圣罗兰（St Laurent）。由其创意总监Hedi Slimane 推出的本季新品

始施行，而大受欢迎。

Moynat始终跟随时代的步伐，关注汽车产业的发展，

包括一件罩在全黑内搭外面的银色雨衣，搭配一双让人眼前

开发出符合新时代的定制箱包。在1902年，该品牌为豪华轿

一亮的漆皮高跟靴。该品牌还首次展出了令人惊艳的粉色皮

车专门设计了一款旅行箱，它的弧形底部与车顶完美契合。

草外套，并搭配圣罗兰的经典皮裤，这一造型完美诠释了当

值得一提的是，Moynat所有型号的旅行箱都可接受定制，

前的流行趋势。当巴黎男装周的秀场偏离黑色主题时，一场

无论外置或内置，无论任何车型和轮廓都可完美匹配。 该品牌现有的箱包系列从其原始箱包设计中获取灵

波西米亚浪潮席卷全城。日本设计师Christian Dada用拼 接皮草外套、方格法兰绒和麂皮牛仔镶拼来引领这一风格

感。如Mini Vanity这款时尚的晚宴手挽包是 Moynat 著

转变。Miharayasuhiro和Kolor双双唤醒了风靡20世纪70

名旅行箱的缩小版，运用传统技术如弯角缝接等法国古老

年代的波西米亚风：前者向人们展现了拼接的牛仔服装，而

工艺手工缝制而成。最近，该品牌与歌手兼词作者Pharrell

后者则让模特披上遮住肩膀和手臂的超大围巾走上T台。

Williams联名打造一系列有着列车外形的包袋和手包。 Moynat曾在1976年停业，但在2011年被 LVMH集团 收购之后在Saint-Honoré街重新开业。此后，该品牌陆续

亚美学发挥到极致。在塞纳河畔宏伟的联排别墅内，模特向

在伦敦和香港开设店铺，并继续生产最高水准的手工产品。

花纹的便帽，展现该品牌对波西米亚风潮的全新理解。

带着Moynat 上路就意味着与时尚同行。

moynat.com

巴黎时装品牌Melindagloss不改初衷，将法式波西米 人们展示了宽松的双排扣垂坠感外套和斗篷，以及印满头骨 没有西服套装的男装周是不完整的，优雅的剪裁再一 次被证明是本季男装的最流行元素。意大利奢侈品牌之 最，Valentino的几何图案系列以棕色、米色和蓝色的方格

50: Men Of The Moment 当代男士风尚

西服系列作为开场，并辅以荧光绿的衬衣、 夹克和饰有数 百个微小四叶草图案的裤子。Paul Smith则通过其具有现 代感的剪裁为巴黎男装周注入英伦绅士元素，其中包括令人

全球最具时尚感的男士视巴黎为男装圣地，Ruairidh

惊喜的垫肩设计回归。比利时设计师Dries Van Noten的

Pritchard为您总结本季流行趋势

乳白色双排扣晚礼服也得到了秀场前排大咖们的首肯。

globalblue.com

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然而，法国时尚实力大牌Dior依然凭借绝美裁剪的正 装占据巴黎时装周的统治地位。经典的三件式晚礼服升级

针织领导品牌Sonia Rykiel也有着类似的经历。该品牌创 意总监Julie de Libran与艺术总监Thomas Lenthal合作

为风格凌厉的直筒裤搭配饰有花形徽章的单排单粒扣和双

改造了位于Saint- Germain大道的品牌旗舰店。取而代之

排双粒扣的燕尾服。同样，该品牌的经典外套也推出了长至

的是一间极漂亮的沙龙，被漆成红色的架子上摆着一排排

脚踝的深紫色款。在本次走秀的重头戏——黄色印花大衣

的古籍书。

出场之前，有着海军蓝和荧黄犬牙织纹的短外套同样吸引 了人们的眼球。 通过展示全球最多元化和最具创新力的男装设计师， 巴黎男装周将自己塑造成引领最新男装时尚设计潮流的场

“Sonia Rykiel对于巴黎街头和文化圈发生的事情十 分关注，Saint- Germain大道正是文化的温床。我想要把 那种力量带回精品店里，让这里成为人们外出聚会的地方。 我希望你们能从衣物上感受到情感和记忆，就像倾听一首

所。尽管，时装周期间设计师们所展现的时尚趋势倾向于多

歌那样。”de Libran如此解释她的新观点。在这位设计师

元化，但是可以清楚地看到，哥特风、 波西米亚风以及量身

推出的2015秋冬系列中，上世纪70年代的微染针织毛皮大

定制是时尚之都的致胜法宝，它们亦将掀起男装时尚风暴。

衣、前缀纽扣的麂皮喇叭裤和海魂条纹毛衣唤起了人们的

givenchy.com, thombrowne.com, julius-garden.jp, borisbidjansaberi.com, andreacrews.com, damirdoma.com, ysl.com, christiandada.jp, miharayasuhiro.jp, kolor.jp, melindagloss.com, valentino.com, paulsmith.co.uk, driesvannoten.be, dior.com

怀旧情怀。

56: New Visions 新气象 从全新的餐馆到旧式时装品牌的翻新，巴黎正在经历一场文 化复兴，Harriet Quick如是说

一波巴黎本地设计师也开始崭露头角，例如

25岁就已获两次提名LVMH大奖的Simon Porte Jacquemus。Jacquemus来自法国东南部，是个自学成才的 天才。他从叛逆的美人身上混搭的出街装扮获得灵感，在学 院风连衣裙的胸前饰以双手交叉状的超现实主义皮带。 专注于设计生产PVC材质外衣的小众品牌Wanda Nylon，以及出品牛仔和皮革精裁服饰的Each x Other 同样受到人们的关注。Each x Other由Ilan Delouis和 Jenny Mannerheim创办，与艺术家、作家和音乐家合作推 出成套服装系列。Demna Gvasalia领导的新兴服装品牌 Vetements主打解构式设计，推出的超大尺码剪裁和改良的 消防员套装亦收获全球粉丝追捧。

很难说清楚一个城市转变的起因，理由可能就像蝴蝶

巴黎同样也是蓬勃发展的新派美食圣地。Givenchy的

震动了一下翅膀那样随意。最近，变革之风吹遍了巴黎，一

前新闻发布员Claus Estermann为了响应不断增长的新美

座充满活力的都市展现在人们眼前。新的企业家在这里扎 根，大胆的新面孔们引领奢侈品牌，甚至连出租车都提供深

食场所需求，在2011年开办了自己的有机杂货早餐店Claus: L’Épicerie du Petit-Déjeuner。餐馆、酒吧如雨后春笋

夜服务了。无论是巴黎本地人还是游客，都可以悠闲地游走

般涌现在之前被人们忽视的街巷，其中包括去年新开的

于这座城市——现在就是探索巴黎的最佳时候。

Ratapoil du Faubourg，距离巴黎北站步行仅需十分钟。

“巴黎蕴藏着一股新能量，一种让事事都能实现的魔

从时尚到夜店到餐馆，巴黎的探险之旅刚刚启航，何不

力， ”夜店老板 André Saraiva介绍说。大约十年来，他自己

加入我们一起远航呢？

的夜店Le Baron和收购的夜店Chez Castel为都市人群的

louisvuitton.com, soniarykiel.com, jacquemus.com, wandanylon.fr, each-other.com, vetementswebsite.com, claus-paris.net, ratapoildufaubourg.fr

闲暇时间提供了好去处。Saraiva还玩音乐、 玩摄影，同时 也是一位涂鸦艺术家，他是运用自己的博学多识链接不同领 域并将之用于经营生意的人才典范。 从高端的成熟品牌到初创公司，这股能量也流动 在时装商店和时尚品牌之中。因Nicolas Ghesquière 而重现活力的路易威登（Louis Vuitton）表现尤为突

86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

出。Ghesquière已经重塑了品牌基因，将“探险时尚”作为

畅购全球，尊享退税

品牌的新理念。复古风范与现代艺术的融合，高端奢华与街 头酷感并存，这一理念被巧妙地运用到他的创新设计中。 “

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时，环球蓝

昔人已矣，我们要专注当下。路易威登有着悠久的历史与传

联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为

承，但它同时也是自由的，属于现代的。这样的想法让我感

您节约购物开销。

到新鲜并受启发， ”Ghesquière说道。Ghesquière为他的设 计注入了轻松酷感，比如2015秋冬系列，宽大的皮草大衣下

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）

20世纪80年代风格的皮裤搭配银光闪闪的箱型手包。 Ghesquière正逐渐用他对时尚的高度敏感替换品牌 的旧有框架。自20世纪60年代末就矗立于塞纳河左岸的

获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星标志或 者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（Global Blue）服务，然后遵 循我们简单的退税过程：

94

1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格（Global

Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台请他们 在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联的退税点领取 您的退税款。 联系方式：

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€175.01即可节约高达购买价格12%的税。请注 意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续费。 部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退税手续费。

日本語翻訳 42: The Art Of Travel 旅の芸術品 パリ有数の老舗旅行カバンメーカーの一つ「モアナ」は、ル ーツを見失うことなく、今の時代にあったメーカーへと変貌 してきた。カレン・ムニスがその足跡をたどった。 モアナの高級旅行用品は、165年以上にわたって世界のジ ェットセッターを魅了してきた。パリ生まれのこのレーベル は世界最古のトランク・革製品ブランドの一つ。史上唯一の 女性旅行カバンメーカーとして知られるポーリーヌ・モアナ が、自分の名を冠したレーベルを立ち上げたのは1849年 のことだ。 ただ、同社がパイオニアなのはそうした意味だけでは

った。レジャンヌは売り出し中のスターで、モアナをはじめ数

ない。エルメスが女優ジェーン・バーキンにちなんでバッグを

多くのデザインハウスにインスピレーションを与えるミューズ

命名する遥か前に、モアナは、パリ全盛期の20世紀初頭、い

だった。モアナでは20世紀初頭に、彼女にちなんだレジャ

わゆるベル・エポック（良き時代）のスターの一人ガブリエ

ンヌバッグを創作している。それがモアナの代表作の一つと

ル・レジャンヌにあやかってハンドバッグを命名し先鞭を付

なり、2011年には同ブランドのアーティスティックディレクタ

けている。また同社はこれまでに、軽量トランクから防水加

ー、ラメス・ネールがこの古典的なシティバッグを現代風に

工法に至るまで様々な特許を数多く申請しており、リムジン

デザインし直し、2015年にはオリジナルの皮スタイルを小型

から列車まであらゆる移動形態用にトランクをデザインして

化したものを再リリースしている。

きた。 ポーリーヌ・モアナは16歳でパリに出て、オペラ地区

1906年、モアナはアーティストのアンリ・ラパンとのコ ラボレーションを開始。この協力関係は大成功で、その後も

で旅行用品を売って身を立てていた。まもなくして、彼女は

長く続くことになる。最初のコラボ商品は、列車をモチーフに

パリ北郊外の革製品メーカー、クーランビエ一族と手を組

した白黒の旅行カバンステッカーシリーズだった。ラパンは

み、1869年にフランス座広場（現在のアンドレ・マルロー広

続いて、モアナお馴染みのMを繰り返したプリントをデザイ

場）に最初のブティックをオープンする。この店の立地が有

ンする。それが後に同ブランドのトレードマークとなって、同

名なコメディ・フランセーズの向い側だったことから、モアナ

社の商品に広く使われるようになる。モロッコにインスピレー

はほどなく同劇場の公式サプライヤーとなる。

ションを得た鋲とヤシの葉のモチーフが特徴の赤いトランク

この劇場がポーリーヌ・モアナの仕事に大きな影響を 与えるが、アート界における同ブランドの地位を確立したの は、ベル・エポック女優ガブリエル・レジャンヌとの友情だ globalblue.com

は、ラパンが1925年にデザインしたもので、パリ現代産業装 飾芸術国際博覧会で名誉賞を受賞している。 モアナはその後も、様々な国際ブランドと幅広くコラボ

95

現在のコレクションは、同社の出発点からインスピレー ションを得ている。例えば、有名なモアナのトランクを模した ミニ・ヴァニティなどだ。この現代的なイブニングバッグ兼リ ストレットは、モアナの伝統的デザインの小型版レプリカで、 フランス古来の工芸手法アングルステッチなど伝統的な技巧 を用いて手作りされている。最近は、シンガーソングライター のファレル・ウィリアムズと共同で、列車の形をしたバッグや クラッチのシリーズを創作した。 モアナは1976年にいったん閉店したが、2011年に LVMHがオーナーとなってサントノーレ通りに再びオープン した。この復活以来、同ブランドはロンドンと香港に店舗を 開設し、最高級の手作りデザインを作り続けている。モアナ を持てば、誰もがスタイリッシュな旅人になる。

moynat.com

50: Men Of The Moment 旬のメンズウェア 世界で最もスタイル通の男たちは、ファッションのヒントをパ リに求める。ルーリー・プリチャードが今シーズンの主なトレ ンドについて語る。 ロンドンのメンズファッションウィークは新進デザイナーの 登竜門で、いかにもイギリスらしいテイラーリングが特徴だ。 一方、ミラノはイタリアンデザイナーのドラマチックな作品 が多々発表される舞台だ。ただ、世界のファッションの都と いわれるパリのメンズファッションウィークは格別で、国際 ブランドとフランスのファッションハウスがしのぎを削り、メ ンズウェアの最高峰を見せつける。今シーズンも例外ではな く、世界最先端デザイナーがフランスの首都に集まり、この 都市の名高い宮殿やギャラリー、ファッショナブルな倉庫ス レーションしてきた。例えば、化粧品と香水のブランド「ゲラ

ペースを占拠した。このファッションのるつぼから現れたト

ン」と組んでオリエント急行のために作った青いビューティケ

レンドが、今後数か月の世界のメンズファッションを左右す

ースや、ジャガーと共同でFタイプコンバーチブルの中に収納

ることになる。

できるようデザインした電動スクーター入りトランク「ル・マ ル・ジャガー」などだ。 モアナは創立以来、美しく手作りされたデザインと革新

2015年秋冬のキーカラーが黒であることは、否定の余 地がない。ジバンシーをはじめ、最大の影響力を持つパリ のデザイナーのコレクションでは、黒が基本色やフォーカス

や機能性を易々と合体させてきた。1854年には、熱帯樹の

カラーとして多用されていた。ジバンシーでは、キャットウォ

樹脂ガッタパーチャを使ったケース防水加工を初考案。続い

ークを歩くモデルの顔がラメや不気味な頭骸骨のメイクで

て1870年には、軽量の籐製トランク「マル・アングレーズ（イ

飾られ、ゴシック美学を色濃く反映していることがはっきり

ングリッシュ・トランク）」の特許を取得している。このトラン

見て取れた。

クは英仏間の旅行用にデザインされたもので、旅行カバンの 重量制限導入をきっかけに人気が出た。

この新たなゴシック調のトレンドが最もくっきり表れて いたのが、アメリカ人デザイナー、トムブラウンがショーの幕

モアナでは常に、進化する自動車産業に合わせて自社

開けで見せたルックスだ。シャープなスーツに身を包みヴェ

のトランクをカスタマイズすることによって、時代に合ったメ

ールをかぶった葬儀屋がモデルの葬列を率い、誰もが完璧

ーカーであり続けるよう努力してきた。例えば1902年には、

に仕立てられたスーツを着て、白磁のように白い顔が黒レー

底の凹みが車の屋根にぴったりフィットするリムジン専用トラ

スのヴェールごしにかろうじて見えた。他のデザイナーも、同

ンクをデザインした。さらに、同社のトランクは全て、どんな

様にインパクトの強いゴシック調の作品を披露している。日

車両でもその内装や外観、輪郭に合わせてカスタムデザイン

本のブランド「ユリウス」では、凶暴犯の拘束衣を思わせるフ

できるようになっている。

ァスナーとピークショルダーを組み合わせて威嚇的な表情を

96

出したダウンジャケットのコレクションを発表した。 コレクションによって、モノクロのカラーパレットに徹し

他を圧倒したのは、何といってもフランスのファッションハウ ス「ディオール」。古典的なスリーピースタキシードを現代風

たブランドもあれば、概ね黒を使いながら時に鮮やかな色

にして、キレのいいプリーツ入りストレートカットのズボンと、

を差したものもあった。ペルシア系ドイツ人デザイナーのボリ

シングルブレストにボタン一つ、ダブルブレストにボタン二つ

ス・ビジャン・サベリのコレクションでは、大ぶりの黒のケー

のタキシードジャケットを合わせ、胸元を花形のバッジで飾

プコートに鮮やかな赤皮のブーツ、手袋、鳥打帽を合わせた

った。アウターウェアも同様に古典的なコートをアップデート

り、同じ鮮烈な赤を使ったエプロンを地味な全面黒服の上

し、深いスモモ色のくるぶしにかかりそうなロングコートなど

に締めたりといったルックスが目玉だった。パリのストリート

を披露した。丈の短いものは、ネイビーとネオンイエローのデ

ウェアレーベル「アンドレア・クルーズ」では、黒とオレンジ

ィテールが目を引く千鳥格子のコートなど。極めつけは観客

のスポーツラックス風の作品を繰り出し、同じくパリを本拠

の喝さいを浴びた黄色のプリントのオーバーコートで、まさに

とするダミール・ドーマは黄色を差し色に選び、明るいお日

今コレクション最大のステートメントピースだった。

様色の極薄ニットにグレーの緩やかなハイウエストスラック スと黒のウールオーバーコートを合わせた。 黒に明色を重ねるトレンドの巨匠といえばサンローラン

世界中から極めて多様で斬新なメンズウェアのデザイ ナーが集まるパリのメンズファッションウィークは、メンズフ ァッションデザインの最先端トレンドを見るには格好の機会

だ。クリエイティブディレクターのエディ・スリマンによる今シ

だ。スケジュール表に名を連ねるデザイナーもトレンドも多

ーズンのコレクションでは、全面黒のアンサンブルの上にメ

様だが、ファッションの都パリを酔わせたゴシック、ボヘミア

タリックシルバーのレインコート、足元は目を見張るような中

ン、そしてテイラードのルックスがメンズウェア界を席巻する

性的なパテントレザー製ヒール付きブーツといったルックス

のは間違いない。

などが披露された。さらにピンクの毛皮コートもお目見えし

givenchy.com、thombrowne.com、julius-garden.jp、 borisbidjansaberi.com、andreacrews.com、 damirdoma.com、ysl.com、christiandada.jp、 miharayasuhiro.jp、kolor.jp、melindagloss.com、 valentino.com、paulsmith.co.uk、driesvannoten.be、 dior.com

た。サンローランのトレードマークともいえるドレインパイプ・ カットのレザーパンツに合わせて観客の目をくぎ付けにした そのルックスは、まさにこのトレンドの縮図だ。 パリのメンズファッションウィークで、黒がランウェイの 主役でない時はボヘミアン調が目立っていた。日本人デザイ ナーのクリスチャン・ダダがその先鋒で、パッチワークの毛皮 コートやチェックのフランネル、スエードのパネルを配したデ

56: New Visions

ニムなどが見られた。コラーとミハラヤスヒロは、共に1970

新たなビジョン

年代のボヘミアン調を彷彿とさせるショーだった。ミハラヤス ヒロでは様々なパッチワークデニムが披露され、コラーでは

新しいレストランのオープンや伝統あるファッションハウスの

特大スカーフで肩や腕を包みボヘミアンポンチョを彷彿とさ

刷新など、パリは今、文化的ルネッサンスの真っ最中だ。ハリ

せるスタイルのモデルがランウェイに登場した。

エット・クイックがレポートする。

形の面でフランスボヘミアン美学を存分に見せたのが、 フランスのファッションハウス「メリンダグロス」だ。このレー

都市の雰囲気が変わるのはなぜか、これといった理由を指摘

ベルはセーヌ川のほとりの豪奢なタウンハウスで、ゆったりし

するのは難しい。ヒラヒラと飛ぶ蝶のように、ランダムな場合

たカットのダブルブレストスーツをはじめ、オーバーコートや

があるからだ。近頃のパリは変化の風が吹き、活気が戻って

ケープ、頭をすっぽり包むビーニーキャップなど、ボヘミアン

ハツラツとした表情を見せ始めている。新しいタイプの起業

シックの現代版を披露した。

家が根を下ろし、大胆なニューフェースが老舗高級レーベル

とはいえ、メンズファッションウィークといえば、やはり

を率いている。夜中にタクシーをつかまえることさえ、できる

シャープなスーツのオンパレードが無ければ締まらない。今

ようになった。市内をたやすく行き来できるようになったこと

シーズンもまた、エレガントなテイラーリングが最大のトレン

で、パリの住人も観光客も自由度が増し、パリ探訪には最高

ドの一つのようだ。イタリア高級ファッションの牙城ヴァレン

の時代になった。

ティノでは、茶、クリーム、青のチェックのスーツなど幾何学

「パリには今、新たなエネルギーがあります。活力に満

模様のコレクションを発表。ショーの締めは、小さな四つ葉

ち、何でもできるという楽観的ムードがあるのです」というの

のクローバーが無数に光るお揃いのグリーンのシャツ、ジャ

は、ナイトクラブ経営者のアンドレ・サレヴァ。彼はここ十年

ケット、ズボンだった。一方、ポールスミスでは英国風を効か

ほど、ナイトクラブ「ル・バロン」をオープンしたり高級ナイト

せた現代的なスーツを見せたが、中には意外にも大きな肩パ

クラブ「シェ・カステル」を再生したりと、パリのナイトライフ

ッドを復活させたものもあった。ベルギー人デザイナーのドリ

を彩る活動の場を提供してきた。音楽と写真の分野で活動

ス・ヴァン・ノッテンのショーでは、アイボリーのダブルブレス

し、グラフィティアーティストでもあるサレヴァは、人脈が広く

トタキシードに、最前列の観客から称賛の声が漏れた。

博学で刷新を生業とする新タイプの実業家の典型だ。

しかし、巧みなカットのフォーマルウェアコレクションで globalblue.com

こうしたエネルギーはファッションハウスやブランドにも

97

吹き込まれ、確立された高級レーベルから新進レーベルま

パリでは食のシーンにも新顔が登場している。かつて

で業界全体が元気づいている。その最たる例が、ニコラ・ゲ

ジバンシーの広報担当者だったクラウス・エスターマンは、も

スキエールの起用で活気を取り戻したルイ・ヴィトンだ。ゲス

っとエキサイティングな食事の場を求める声に応えて、2011

キエールは、ルイ・ヴィトンは「冒険的なファッションハウス」

年に自身の有機食品店兼朝食処「クラウス：コンビニの朝食

という考えを基にレーベルを再構築した。このコンセプトは、

（Claus: L’Épicerie du Petit-Déjeuner）をオープンした。

レトロと未来的感性、高級の贅と日常の洗練を巧みに合体さ

これまで見向きもされなかった地区でも、レストランやバー

せた彼の素晴らしいコレクションにはっきり表れている。 「昔の幻影は一切ありません。今がテーマなんです。ル イ・ヴィトンは伝統や歴史の重みがありつつ、同時に自由で 全く現代的なブランド。そこが僕には新鮮で刺激的なんで

があちこちに出現している。パリ北駅から徒歩わずか10分 のところに昨年オープンしたラタポワール・デュ・フォブール （Ratapoil du Faubourg）もその一つだ。 ファッションからナイトクラブ、レストランに至るまで、

す」と語るゲスキエールのコレクションには、自然体の洗練感

パリでは壮大な冒険が始まりつつある。これに乗らない手

が漂う。例えば2015年秋冬コレクションでは、1980年代風

はない。

のレザーパンツに特大の毛皮コートとシルバーに光るトランク

louisvuitton.com, soniarykiel.com, jacquemus.com, wandanylon.fr, each-other.com, vetementswebsite.com, claus-paris.net, ratapoildufaubourg.fr

型バッグを合わせている。 ゲスキエールはお堅くて崩しようのない品位という古い イメージを吹き飛ばしたが、こうした刷新の動きは、1960年 代末にレフトバンクに創設された有力ニットウェアレーベル、 ソニアリキエルにも見られる。クリエイティブディレクターのジ ュリー・ドゥ・リブランは、アートディレクターのトーマス・レン

86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

サルと共同で、サンジェルマン大通りにある同ブランド旗艦

海外でのお買い物が免税に

店の改装を敢行し、赤の漆塗りの棚にヴィンテージ本が並ぶ 素晴らしいサロンへと変貌させた。 「ソニアリキエルでは街中や文化シーンで今何が起こっ ているかを注視していました。サンジェルマンは芸術の発信

グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利用いただ きますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街にある27万軒を超 える加盟店でのお買い物がお得になります。

地だったので、そのエネルギーを当社のブティックにも反映し

年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルーの免税

て、人が出入りする場にしたかったんです」と、リブランは自

ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。

身の新しいビジョンについて語っている。 「服によって感情や

まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当たらなけ

思い出が呼び起されるのが好きなんです。歌を聴いて感情が

れば、店員に「グローバル・ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あ

蘇るのに似ています。」リブランの2015年秋冬コレクションで

とは、次のステップを踏むだけです。

は、ニットで編みつないだ1970年代風の毛皮のコートや、前 ボタン付きのスエードのフレアースカート、ブレトンストライプ

1. お買い物

のセーターなどノスタルジアを誘う作品を披露している。

お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免税書類（

一方、新進のパリデザイナーも登場してきている。例え ば、LVMH賞に二度ノミネートされた25歳のサイモン・ポ

タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってください。レシートを 保管するのも忘れずに。

ート・ジャックムス（Simon Porte Jacquemus）だ。フランス 南東部出身のジャックムスは独学でここまできた。彼の作品

2. 還付請求

は、ミスマッチなアイテムを自己流で合わせた街着といった、

ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認印を押

路上で生き抜く者の反抗的な美がインスピレーションになっ

してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付事務所で払い

ている。肩から伸びるシュールレアリズム風の手形ストラップ

戻しを受けます。

を胸元で留めたコラージュスタイルのドレスなどだ。 その他に注目されているのは、PVCを専門に扱うニ ッチなアウターウェアレーベル「ワンダ・ナイロン（Wanda

お問い合わせ：

Nylon）」や、スーツ、デニム、レザーの「イーチアザー（Each x Other）」だ。イラン・デロイスとジェニー・マナーハイム

taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 €175.01以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の最高12％の

が創設したイーチアザーは、カプセルコレクションでアー

払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価

ティストやライター、ミュージシャンとのコラボも行ってい

値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を差し引いた金額となり

る。デムナ・グバサリアが率いる新興レーベル「ヴェトモン

ますので、その旨ご了承ください。 一部の空港で現金での

（Vetements）」の固定概念を突き崩した再構築デザイン

即時払い戻しをご希望の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書

も、世界中でカルト的人気を博しつつある。作品は、超特大

類ごとに課されます。

のスーツや消防士のサロペットを再構築したものなど。

98 | P RO D U C T S

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