PARIS | ПАРИЖ | 巴黎 |
PARIS Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2016/17
Page 44 PERFECT TIMING: why this is the season to explore place Vendôme’s luxury boutiques
If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name
our customers express when they
“WEMPE” has stood for the utmost
purchase jeweller y or timepieces.
exper t ise i n t he a r t of ma k i ng
Ou r pieces of je wel ler y uphold
jewellery and timepieces. We offer
international standards and are born
a u n ique selec t ion of va lu able
in our own atelier. This is true for
treasures at 27 Wempe showrooms
unusual one-of-a-kind items as well
world-wide. We are especially proud
as for our diverse assortment of classic
because for more than a centur y
pieces with brilliant-cut diamonds.
we have been privileged to
And a century-old friendship links
contribute to the grand feelings that
us with the world’s foremost watch
We accept all credit cards.
manufactories. You will find WEMPE
individual needs. We cordially invite you
showrooms at the loveliest locations
to discover an abundance of interesting
in great European metropolises, New
new items and exclusive special models
York City and in Beijing. Each shop also
at one of Europe’s leading jewellers.
offers service or advice whenever you
Please have a look at our website to find
require it, so you can be certain that
the complete range of watch brands we
we will always be available to meet your
carry. We look forward to your visit!
Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM
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EDITOR’S LETTER Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera
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Германия
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this culturally rich European capital. Paris has much to ofer, as our guide on page 71 reveals. Readers who appreciate world-class fashion will enjoy our feature on the designers writing a new chapter in the history of Parisian style (page 50), and in this issue we also talk to Christian Lacroix’s creative director Sacha Walckhof about the brand’s luxurious homeware. SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save an average of 12% when shopping in France. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Paris. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.
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Welcome to Paris
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© 2016 CHLOE. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
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253, rue Saint–Honoré, Paris 1er
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Andrew Nye Andrew Nye created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Paris Luxury. His imaginative artwork has previously been commissioned by Barclays, Eurostar and Metro magazine, among others. His conceptual approach makes him a perfect illustrator for this cover, inspired by our feature about the luxury jewellery and watch stores of the place Vendôme area on page 44. It shows the historic square as a beautiful timepiece. Explore our archive of cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.
Ruairidh Pritchard Ruairidh Pritchard, Global Blue’s commercial editor, studied journalism in Glasgow, where he was editor of his university’s awardwinning magazine for two years. Ruairidh, who is from the Outer Hebrides, writes about fashion, art and culture for a variety of publications and websites in his spare time. globalblue.com
PHOTO: GRACE BIRD
PHOTO: © ANTONIO OLMOS
ILLUSTRATION: ANDREW NYE
CONTRIBUTORS
Harriet Quick Fashion journalist Harriet Quick has held senior roles at the Guardian newspaper and at British Vogue, where she was the fashion features director for over a decade. From interviewing some of the world’s biggest stars to front-row trend reporting, Harriet’s finger is firmly on the sartorial pulse.
Aaron Carline New York-born graphic designer Aaron Carline, a senior artworker at SHOP, is passionate about editorial design and zine culture. During his spare time he can often be found in vintage clothing stores searching for rare finds, watching David Lynch films or listening to 1990s hip hop.
251 Rue Saint-HonorĂŠ, 75001 Paris
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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L
PU BL ISH I NG
Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers
Publisher James Morris
Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Andrew Nye Contributor Harriet Quick Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Assistant production editor Katie Muxworthy Features editor Hannah Lewis City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion writer Danielle De Wolfe News editor Ginger Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Alieu Haze Sambou Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Charlotte Rogers Deputy artworker Dionne Hélène Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Milkha Lala Artworking assistant Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Chinese sub-editor Jennifer Chen Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov
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Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakki Digital production manager Andrew Lugton Production assistants Sammy Ha, Adanna Nwachuku
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2016 Global Blue
Porsche Design Timepieces
911 GT3 RS fuel consumption [ in l/100 km ]: urban 19.2 · extra-urban 8.9 · combined 12.7; CO 2 emissions: combined 296 g/km
CHRONOTIMER SERIES 1 DEEP BLUE Designed in Austria. Swiss Made.
S P O R T Y P E R F O R M A N C E I N T I TA N I U M Porsche Design – Men’s Designer Sportswear and Accessories for the Global Business Traveller.
www.porsche-design.com Porsche Design Paris | Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré 23
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CONTENTS Products
Features
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44
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Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Paris this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of Paris’s best dressed during Paris Fashion Week
News 32 34
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Shop Window One store not to be missed in Paris News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products In Store … … with JM Weston’s artistic director Michel Perry in the brand’s Le Marais boutique
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Cover story: Paved With Gold The historic place Vendôme area is home to many of the most prestigious fine watch and jewellery brands in the world. Hannah Lewis reveals the most desirable pieces in its boutiques this season Game Changers A wave of emerging labels is changing the face of fashion in Paris. Harriet Quick speaks to some of the key names to know Fortune Favours The Brave Christian Lacroix’s creative director Sacha Walckhoff is extending the label with flamboyant homeware. He talks to Ruairidh Pritchard about the future of the renowned brand
PHOTO: DANIEL HERENDI
p.38
Above: Graff’s first Paris store, which opened in 2016
Escale Time Zone.
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CONTENTS p.62
Experience 62
66
Table Talk Discover a range of gourmet experiences under one roof in the passage des Panoramas, says Isabella Redmond Styles Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels
Guide 71
Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Paris
Essentials 84
How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
Translations 85 Русский Перевод 91 美文翻译 97
Souvenir 98
The essential item to bring home
E NGL I S H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文
VISIT US ONLINE...
The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com
Последние новости о роскошном шоппинге и путешествиях ищите на сайте globalblue.ru
FOLLOW US AT... /GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu @GlobalBlue @环球蓝联- GlobalBlue /globalblue /globalblue @shopcontent Above: a typical dish at Racines, one of several places offering a gourmet experience in the passage des Panoramas
PHOTO: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
globalblue.cn 每日更新精品购 物信息，分享海外省钱秘笈
20 | P RO D U C T S
FLASH OF BRILLIANCE These diamond earrings by Wempe are beautifully designed to hang perfectly and show their exquisite stones to striking effect. Made of 18-carat white gold, they feature a dazzling range of diamonds ‒ a total of 10 baguette-cut, 68 brilliant-cut and 16 navette-cut gems – and are sure to make a statement with every ensemble, from a blouse-and-jeans combination to a maxidress. Wempe has Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 84
reinterpreted some classic styles this season, using rose gold tones with pearls, multicoloured gemstones and brilliant-cut diamonds. The family-owned watch and jewellery company was founded in 1878 in Hamburg and now has 32 showrooms in cities worldwide, including New York, London and Paris. fm Wempe diamond earrings, €27,975, Wempe, 16 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 2177, wempe.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 78
PHOTO: MATTHIAS HOFFMANN
CHECK OUT
22 | P RO D U C T S
CITRUS PUNCH
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Infuse your winter wardrobe with shades of blue, green and yellow
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1. Acne Studios coat, €2,200, Acne Studios, 124 galerie de Valois, Palais Royal, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 1662, acnestudios.com
3. Mulberry bag, €1,095, Mulberry, 275 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 0064, mulberry.com
5. Alpha-H Beauty Sleep Power Peel, 50ml, €75, Oh My Cream, 3 rue de Tournon, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4354 8083, alpha-h.com
2. De Grisogono bracelet, €53,300, De Grisogono, 358 bis rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4455 0440, degrisogono.com
4. Prada boots, €990, Prada, 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5818 6330, prada.com
6. Estée Lauder lipstick, €28, Le BHV Marais, 52 rue de Rivoli, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)9 7740 1400, esteelauder.com
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 84
PHOTOS: (2) IMAGIE_SA; (5) STEPHEN CLARKE
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S H O P | 23
MOLTEN METALLICS Navy blue looks stylish teamed with beige and gold
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PHOTOS: (4) ENRICO GEMINIANI FOTOGRAFO; (5) CARLOS VALENCIA
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1. Michael Kors jumper, €225, Michael Kors, 279 rue Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 7036 4440, michaelkors.com
3. Tom Ford Patent Finish Lip Color, €48, Tom Ford, 376-378 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 4026, tomford.com
2. Chloé bag, €1,390, Chloé, 253 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5504 0330, chloe.com
4. Walter Steiger boots, €640, Walter Steiger, 33 avenue Matignon, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 8396 0781, waltersteiger.com
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5. Adolfo Dominguez trousers, €235, Adolfo Dominguez, 1-3 rue Elzévir, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4458 9610, adolfodominguez.com
24 | P RO D U C T S
EXPLORER CHIC Earthy tones of brown never go out of fashion 1
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1. Closed coat, €1,500, Closed, 18 rue de Poitou, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4278 4052, closed.com
3. Acqua di Parma Collezione Barbiere beard serum, 30ml, €69, Acqua di Parma, 6 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4274 8708, acquadiparma.com
2. Ray-Ban glasses, €149, Galeries Lafayette, 40 boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 4282 3456, ray-ban.com
4. Ermenegildo Zegna bag, €1,800, Ermenegildo Zegna, 50 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4451 1991, zegna.com
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 84
5. Moncler boots, €595, Moncler, 171 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 5371 9329, moncler.com
PHOTOS: (2) ELISABETTA MARES; (4) CARLO BEVILACQUA
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32 avenue Matignon - 75008 PARIS h-gringoire.fr
26 | P RO D U C T S
THE DARK SIDE Add interest to classic grey with an elegant backpack
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1. Porsche Design blazer, €790, Porsche Design, 23 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4006 6911, porsche-design.com
3. Salvatore Ferragamo cuff links, €270, Salvatore Ferragamo, 45 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 3637, ferragamo.com
2. Santoni boots, €7,100, Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)9 6739 8943, santonishoes.com
4. Rolex watch, from €6,260, Rolex, 9 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4020 2100, rolex.com
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 84
5. Bally backpack, €25,000, Bally, 60 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4265 5898, bally.com
PHOTOS: (2) ROBERTO MAZZOLA; (4) ©ROLEX/CLAUDE BOSSEL
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REGARDER L A VIDÈO SUR MARINARINALDI.COM
ELLEN VON UNWERTH ET ALESSANDRA GARCIA
DU 42 AU 56
PARIS 20 RUE ROYALE - 56 RUE DU FOUR - 7 AV. VICTOR HUGO AIX EN PROVENCE - CANNES - LYON - NICE - MONTE CARLO
28 | P RO D U C T S
RED AND BLUE Combine contrasting textures and prints for a compelling look
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3. Burberry satchel, €1,295, Burberry, 56 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 7207 0021, burberry.com
2. Fred Perry shirt, €125, Fred Perry, 26 rue des Rosiers, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4276 0480, fredperry.com
4. Canali boots, €800, Canali, 18 rue Marbeuf, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5375 0220, canali.com
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 84
5. Vivienne Westwood trousers, €440, Vivienne Westwood, 175 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 8479 3399, viviennewestwood.com PHOTO: (4) ALTO
1. Tod’s scarf, €320, Tod’s, 17-21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5343 1616, tods.com
15 RUE DE L A PAIX
30 | S T R E E T S T Y L E
STREET STYLE
PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT
Coveted brands including Balenciaga and Chanel took the lead at Paris Fashion Week, with attendees opting for playful colour schemes and striking shapes
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 84
S H O P | 31
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32 | N E W S
SHOP WINDOW
A MATTER OF TIME Luxury watchmaker Audemars Piguet has been making astounding timepieces since 1875. In May, the brand opened a boutique on Paris’s elegant rue Royale, overlooking place de la Madeleine. Its design – created for all Audemars Piguet’s boutiques worldwide – is intended to evoke the landscapes of the Swiss Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 84
Jura and the vallée de Joux, where the watchmaker has its roots. The sleek interior focuses on wood and metal, and is the perfect setting in which to discover the know-how of one of the world’s most prestigious haute horlogerie brands. gc Audemars Piguet, 15 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4020 4545, audemarspiguet.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 78
THE EXCEPTION NOW HAS AN ADDRESS: 68 CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES - PARIS 8 e
THE L ARGEST SINGLE-BRAND PERFUMES AND COSMETICS BOUTIQUE IN THE WORLD
WWW.GUERLAIN.COM
PERFUMES - COSMETICS - SPA - RES TAURANT
34 | N E W S
GLOWING REPORT
TWICE AS NICE
It’s been a busy year for lamp designer Céline Wright. Not only has she opened a new boutique on Paris’s Île Saint-Louis, she has also launched a new range of lights called Éclipse, which includes the table lamp pictured (€1,938). Designed to evoke the setting of the sun, it has a paper and copper foil cupola that suffuses a room with warm golden light. Each of Wright’s pieces is made entirely by hand using natural materials, meaning that no two are ever exactly the same. gc Céline Wright, 56 rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Île, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4287 9948, celinewright.com
In July, five years after opening its first Paris flagship store, Dsquared2 unveiled its second, this time in the city’s chic Saint-Germain-desPrés area. Italian architectural firm Storage Associati helped founders Dean and Dan Caten develop the design concept for the interior, which covers 230 square metres over two storeys. Yellow and pink furnishings characterise the womenswear section, while the menswear area features black leather armchairs and brown silk and wool carpets. The result is a relaxed environment in which to browse the brand’s high-end offering. gc Dsquared2, 10 rue de Grenelle, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4286 5470, dsquared2.com
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 84
FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 80
S H O P | 35
IN BRIEF The Francis Kurkdjian boutique on rue d’Alger has been renovated, and now has a must-see gallery space created by Jean-Hugues de Châtillon
PHOTO: (BOTTOM) GABRIELEGIUSSANI.COM
SHARP DESIGN Organza, cotton, silk and wool form the backbone of Ports 1961’s impressive autumn/winter 2016/17 womenswear collection, designed by creative director Nataša Čagalj. It’s notable for its strong focus on tailoring, combined with layering, folds, asymmetries and cleverly placed incisions, and a subdued palette enlivened with pops of colour. Head to the stylish Paris flagship to see the pieces up close, including covetable designs such as the jacket pictured here (€1,450). A classic style with fashionforward details, this chic tailored piece with a twist is likely to become a wardrobe favourite. gc Ports 1961, 251bis rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4703 3541, ports1961.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 77
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36 | N E W S
WRITE PLACE Montblanc’s boutique on boulevard des Capucines celebrates the brand’s heritage with interiors that evoke the art of writing. The store, which was unveiled in late 2015, was devised by French designer Noé DuchaufourLawrance, who followed three themes in the décor: calligraphy, skilled craftsmanship and the brand’s emblem of Mont Blanc. As well as displaying a wide range of Montblanc’s writing instruments, timepieces and leather goods, the shop offers special personalisation services, including custom-made pen nibs. gc Montblanc, 12 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 4312 5733, montblanc.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 79
IN BLACK AND WHITE Roger Vivier is a quintessentially Parisian footwear and accessories brand, famous for creating striking styles such as the ‘virgule’ curving heel. This season the heritage brand, founded in 1937, has reworked classic houndstooth to bold, graphic effect, and the pattern appears across its range. Whether you choose the Viv’ Nano bag pictured here (€1,400) or a pair of shoes adorned with the monochrome design, you are guaranteed to add panache to any outfit. gc Roger Vivier, 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5343 0085, rogervivier.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 77
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 84
PHOTO: DANIEL HERENDI
38 | N E W S
PERFECT SETTING
THE ITALIAN JOB
The renowned luxury jewellery brand Graff opened its first store in Paris at the beginning of 2016. Its new salon is situated on place Vendôme next to the Ritz Paris and takes inspiration from the landscaped gardens that were in fashion in the city during the 18th century. The elegant green interior is punctuated by brass showcases, zebrano wood display desks and marble pillars, all of which make an appealing backdrop to Graff’s stunning collections of diamonds, timepieces and jewellery. gc Graff, 17 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4013 7460, graffdiamonds.com
In May, Salvatore Ferragamo reopened its flagship on avenue Montaigne. Spread over two floors, the impressively extended and remodelled boutique is designed to evoke the atmosphere of a 20th-century Parisian apartment infused with Italian influences. It features stucco ceilings, oak floors, upholstered walls and chandeliers. The store houses the label’s collections for both men and women: the women’s section is bright and colourful, while the area for men is decorated in darker, more masculine tones. gc Salvatore Ferragamo, 45 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 3637, ferragamo.com
FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 79
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 84
FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 75
S H O P | 39
A CUT ABOVE Offering bespoke tailoring for men, Cifonelli was established in Rome in 1880 and is now run by the fourth generation of the eponymous founding family. In addition to its handcrafted service, the house – based in Paris since 1926 – also offers a ready-towear collection (pictured), launched in 2014, which has been carefully developed in line with the label’s core values. A quest for perfection and a focus on impeccable craftsmanship lie at the heart of this luxury brand, which draws on Italian style, French finesse and British technique in equal measure. gc Cifonelli, 83 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)9 6709 5034, cifonelli.com
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40 | N E W S
SEE AND BE SEEN Innovative eyewear designer Thierry Lasry has opened his first boutique in Paris. A suitably unconventional space in the SaintGermain-des-Prés neighbourhood, the new store covers a compact 45 square metres, with décor conceived by fashion-house veteran Vincent Darré. Kinetic art was his inspiration: think clever combinations of perspective, shapes and materials. Here visitors can browse Lasry’s collections, as well as his cutting-edge collaborations. gc Thierry Lasry, 40 rue du Four, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4327 4465, thierrylasry.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 80
SENSORY SPACE Astier de Villatte is renowned for its scented candles and ceramics, all created by artisans at the brand’s Paris workshop. The luxury label, which turns 20 this year, has opened a new boutique in the sixth arrondissement near the Jardin du Luxembourg. It is located in a former bookshop and features painted woodpanelled walls and a crystal chandelier, as well as a beautiful stained-glass window by artist Pierre Carron. Visitors will enjoy the striking effect this has on the shop’s quality of light as they browse the desirable ceramics, stationery, candles, colognes and creams on display. gc Astier de Villatte, 16 rue de Tournon, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4203 4390, astierdevillatte.com
IN BRIEF Bentley has opened a new showroom in Paris where luxury-car lovers will be able to discover the brand’s entire range, including the recent Bentayga model
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 84
S H O P | 41
The new Concept Store at the recently reopened Ritz Paris is a modern cabinet of curiosities. It stocks a delightful mix of designer labels, covering everything from cufflinks for men to sunglasses for women, along with coffee-table books, cameras and bouquets of flowers. And it doesn’t stop there: until the end of 2016, cult Miami-based luxury fashion boutique The Webster has its own dedicated section offering an exclusive capsule collection of travel essentials. gc The Concept Store, Ritz Paris, 15 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4316 3030, ritzparis.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 79
PHOTO: CYRILLE GEORGE JERUSALMI
PHOTO: © VINCENT LEROUX
TRAVEL IN STYLE
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42 | G U I D E
French luxury shoemaker JM Weston embodies Parisian elegance and timeless style. The brand’s ability to combine high-quality craftsmanship with designs that add a contemporary touch to classic looks have helped it stay in the address books of the city’s most stylish men and women for more than 125 years. Its most covetable pieces play with texture and colour, and feature everything from calfskin to denim. Artistic director Michel Perry talks about the essence of the brand, and its Le Marais store, with Ximena Daneri
‘I have been part of the JM Weston team for 15 years now. During that time, the fashion industry has found or rediscovered a better balance between tradition and creation. Before, people were looking for products that were modern, above all, and the search for creativity came at the expense of quality. Then the trend changed and became about looking for more high-quality products, which was in tune with what JM Weston does. ‘My toughest challenge was my debut in the JM Weston team. It was difficult for me to bring my own vision without changing everything and generating a revolution within the brand. ‘Nevertheless, I wanted to provide something new, to touch a new generation of customers and to mark a gradual evolution for JM Weston while keeping its existing values and its loyal clientele. Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 84
PHOTO: ROMAIN RICARD
PHOTO: JM WESTON
IN STORE: JM WESTON
PHOTOS: ROMAIN RICARD
S H O P | 43
‘Since the brand was founded over 120 years ago, everything has changed except the basics. There is still this dual aspect: the know-how and tradition of the manufacturing, which has been based in Limoges since 1891, and the elegance and sophistication of Paris. However, a few adjustments were necessary to keep the brand contemporary. ‘The fundamental details are always the same. The brand is in tune with its times: it encapsulates the trends, but without being a fashion brand. It is what makes us different from our competitors. We do not make fashion just to make fashion. We revisit our basics for the traditional customers of today. ‘Nowadays, when you wear JM Weston shoes, you can create your own style and even twist different styles in one look. You can wear a pair of vintage trousers with a cheap T-shirt and nice loafers.
There is complete freedom. The new generations understand that and play with all the different styles. ‘This store opened in mid April 2016. Three main collections are available here. First, there are all our iconic models, such as our loafers. Then there is the Country Gents collection and Le Moc’ Weston collection for men and women. The product that encapsulates the brand best is,
and will always be, the 180 loafer. It was thanks to these shoes that JM Weston is what it is today: a renowned French luxury shoemaker.’ JM Weston, 46 rue des Archives, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4804 7565, jmweston.fr
PAVED WITH GOLD
PHOTO: SÉBASTIEN DERVIEUX
The historic place Vendôme area is home to many of the most prestigious fne watch and jewellery brands in the world. Hannah Lewis reveals the most desirable pieces in its boutiques this season
Left: the elegant architecture of place Vendôme
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lace Vendôme was originally laid out in 1702 as a monument to the successes of the army of King Louis XIV, one of the most celebrated monarchs in French – if not international – history. Much of the imposing square’s baroque architecture was the creation of Jules Hardouin-Mansart, the style refecting the grandeur of the French empire and monarchy in the 18th century. France’s political culture may have moved on from the pomp and extravagance of its kings, but the exclusivity associated with the square, and the adjoining rue de la Paix, remains. Leading luxury brands from across the world call the area home, especially those within the world of fne jewellery and timepieces. From the most established French brands to the best international names, there is 85
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no better location in Paris for sheer opulence. In 1899, Cartier opened its Parisian fagship on the rue de la Paix, an historic street that runs from the iconic Opéra Garnier to place Vendôme. The boutique has become an icon of the brand, its elegant grandeur helping to secure Cartier’s place as one of the world’s leading names in haute joaillerie. It was one of the frst shops in the world to sell wristwatches, and Cartier’s pioneering spirit has not dimmed over time. Look out for its most noted ranges, such as the Panthère jewellery line or the iconic Tank collection of watches. Making its Parisian home nearby is Buccellati, a brand as distinctly Italian as Cartier is French. ‘Buccellati jewellery stands out from the rest because it is full of details dating back to goldsmithing techniques of Above (clockwise from top left): Cartier Panthère ring; place Vendôme; a bracelet from Buccellati’s Opera collection
PHOTO: (TOP LEFT) VINCENT DE LA FAILLE © CARTIER
PHOTO: © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE/JORDANE BLACHAS
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PHOTO: (TOP RIGHT) ANTONIO BARRELLA/STUDIO ORIZZONTE
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Italian Renaissance times,’ explains president and creative director Andrea Buccellati. Using the fnest precious stones and metals available, Buccellati presents exquisite jewellery, timepieces and even home accessories. The latest releases from the Opera collection add bold coloured stones – lapis lazuli, motherof-pearl, onyx, pink opal and jasper – to the house’s signature Renaissance-inspired line. Not far from Buccellati is Tifany & Co, the American jewellery specialist which has become famous for its diamonds, as well as its instantly recognisable blue boxes. Perhaps the most famous ring of all time, the legendary Tifany® Setting has become synonymous with luxury in engagement rings, and this store should be frst on the list of anyone looking to propose to that special someone.
Bulgari is known across the world for its dramatic, glamorous pieces, and its place Vendôme boutique – 20 years old in 2016 – ofers the entire Bulgari collection, with accessories displayed alongside its fne jewellery and watches. Bulgari’s timepieces combine Swiss horological excellence with the Italian fair for which the brand is known; the use of the fnest metals and precious gems makes them the perfect choice for a special occasion. Another highlight is the distinctive snakeinspired Serpenti jewellery line. Boucheron has been a respected name in Parisian fne jewellery since 1858. It was one of the frst jewellers to make place Vendôme home – founder Frédéric Boucheron opened his doors in 1893 – and the boutique is as popular as ever. With over 150 years of expertise, Boucheron’s
Above (clockwise from top left): a watch from Boucheron’s autumn/winter 2016/17 collection; Bulgari snake-inspired necklace; Tiffany & Co rings
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haute joaillerie is considered among the fnest in the world, and its exquisite timepieces carry this quality into the world of horology. Another brand with an impressive history on the square is Van Cleef & Arpels, which opened at number 22, opposite the Ritz Paris, in 1906. The boutique has recently been expanded, and is now spread across numbers 20 and 24 as well as 22. A modern space realised in cool creams and beige tones, it is home to Van Cleef & Arpels’ distinctive take on high jewellery, which draws inspiration from the natural world and presents visions of dreams and enchantments. A few steps away is the worldwide haute joaillerie fagship of Piaget. The French brand’s most ambitious store to date is a celebration
of human craftsmanship, both the unrivalled skill that went into creating the boutique itself, and the world-class talent that is behind each stunning necklace, bracelet, ring and earring. As well as Piaget’s signature fne jewellery, there’s also a resident watchmaking expert. No watch lover should leave Paris without stepping into the place Vendôme outpost of Swiss watchmaker Patek Philippe. Both men’s and women’s timepieces can be found here, and experts are on hand to guide you through your purchase. Patek Philippe has been keen to explain that it chose the location because the square is one of the best destinations in the world for fne watches and jewellery. With such a selection of brands of the highest pedigree, there is no excuse not to pay a visit
Above (clockwise from top left): Van Cleef & Arpels Snowflake necklace; Piaget Mediterranean Garden collection; Patek Philippe Calatrava 5153 watch
MADE IN boggi.com
Paris | 38 Boulevard Des Italiens | Tel. +33 1 402.299.82 | 112 Boulevard Saint Germain | Tel. +33 1 463.306.68 | Galeries Lafayette Haussmann | Tel. +33 1 403.725.65
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
Above: Koché autumn/winter 2016/17
GAME CHANGERS A wave of emerging labels is changing the face of fashion in Paris. Harriet Quick speaks to some of the key names to know
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here are seismic shifts occurring in the Paris firmament. Where once only a flirtatious mode of ladylike chic held sway, championed by the powerhouses of Chanel, Lanvin and Christian Dior, another generation is forging through, writing a fresh chapter in the history of Parisian style. New labels such as Vetements, Jacquemus and Koché, along with newly reinvented old ones – think Balenciaga, Courrèges, Paco Rabanne – have a roster of radically diverse designers at their helm. Collectively, they are challenging the ‘little black dress’ clichés and creating fashion with a point of view. The movement’s pin-up is Demna Gvasalia, co-founder of Vetements and the new creative director of Balenciaga. The brand he helped start was once an obscure off-schedule show; by contrast, its latest autumn/winter collection – staged in a church – was the hottest invitation of the season. Anna Wintour, Emmanuelle Alt and Alexandra Shulman, the editors of Vogue US, Paris and UK respectively, sat in the front row while hundreds of others fought to gain entry. 86
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‘The attention is a bit scary. But I don’t think it is so much about me or about Vetements, but more about the state of fashion today,’ says Gvasalia. ‘We started the label twoand-a-half years ago from nowhere. We showed it is possible and not just a dream, and that building something from scratch can actually work.’ The designer is just one member of a close-knit collective behind the brand, whose ideas first took form around ‘the kitchen table’, to the accompaniment of copious amounts of white table wine and cigarettes. ‘If you have too much strategy, you forget about the essence. What we do is make clothes,’ says Gvasalia, matter-of-factly. Clothes by Vetements are distinctive thanks to their streetwear influences and their subverted silhouettes, be it in the hunched or thrown-back shoulder lines of a biker jacket, in the now iconic jeans assembled from diverse cuts of denim, or in the low swagger of a pair of sweatpants. ‘I like these subtle ways design can transform a garment,’ says Gvasalia. The designer, who was born in Georgia and previously worked for Maison Martin Margiela
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and also for Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, is as well versed in cutting and tailoring as he is in the theatre of fashion shows. At his debut for Balenciaga, he gave the historic house an ‘haute attitude’, presenting tailored ladylike suits with exaggerated hips and extra-wide shoulders, high-fashion lounge pants and fabulous court shoes covered in a spray of crystal stones. This willingness to buck trends and redefine the idea of sophistication is not exclusive to Gvasalia, however. French-born
26-year-old designer Simon Porte Jacquemus is a self-taught talent who projects another view of Paris. The inspiration for his eponymous line stems from the insolent beauties that you might find hanging out in the suburbs wearing smart but contemporary ensembles. For autumn/ winter 2016/17, Jacquemus offers avant-garde but wearable super-wide trousers, pinstripe suits fastened with bows, and draped bustier tops with tails. ‘I’m obsessed with selling my clothes, it’s an economic reality: I need to sell
Above (from left): Vetements; Balenciaga, both autumn/winter 2016/17
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
PHOTO: GIO STAIANO
It’s an exciting moment for the city’s fashion scene, whether on the catwalks, in the stores or simply on the streets
for real,’ says Jacquemus, and with his label now boasting stockists around the globe it seems he’s meeting his goal. Courrèges, a Parisian label established by André Courrèges in the 1960s, is being re-invented by Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant. The duo’s focus is on multipurpose items that play on the label’s heritage: cue bomber jackets, crinkly patent coats and bodycon knitwear. For chic leather pieces that can be packed up into small flatpack parcels, look no further. These designers may be young, but they are far from inexperienced. They are well versed in the traditions and techniques of tailoring, flow and embellishment, but they combine those skills with modern ideas. By day, Christelle Kocher of Koché works at Maison Lemarié, an atelier now owned by Chanel that is famed for its decorative trimmings, in particular feathers and flowers. By night, she conjures up her own
collection, with feathers and beads sprouting from mesh dresses, and collages of fabrics adding attitude. This season, she showed her collection in an 18th-century shopping arcade that is home to Afro-Caribbean hairdressers. ‘I want to share my Paris with other people,’ she says of her multicultural fusions. This new energy is being felt beyond the catwalks, with a clutch of shops embracing the scene. Concept store Tom Greyhound, established by a Korean entrepreneur, is a must-visit, while The Broken Arm is an unpretentious café-cum-store in the Marais that has become a magnet for style seekers, fans of obscure denim and design lovers. Either of these boutiques will give a real insight into the way that young, savvy Parisians are shopping right now. It’s an exciting moment for the city’s fashion scene. Whether on the catwalks, in the stores or simply on the streets, what unites all these players is a passion for Paris
Above (from left): Jacquemus; Courrèges, both autumn/winter 2016/17
PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM
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FORTUNE FAVOURS THE BRAVE Christian Lacroix’s creative director Sacha Walckhof is extending the label with famboyant homeware. He talks to Ruairidh Pritchard about the future of the renowned brand
As Christian Lacroix prepares to celebrate its 30th anniversary next year, it isn’t the clothing of this pedigree couture label that is catching everyone’s attention but the brand’s incredible range of lifestyle pieces. From cushions to tableware, fabrics to stationery, Christian Lacroix is bringing its distinct style of luxury to chic homes across the world. 88 96
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The flamboyant lifestyle looks have been developed under the creative direction of Sacha Walckhoff. The French designer worked in various Paris fashion houses with creatives such as Jean Rémy Daumas, Dorothée Bis and Michel Klein before becoming studio director at Christian Lacroix in 1996. After the departure of Christian Lacroix himself,
PHOTO: ROMEU RODRIGUES BIO
Walckhoff took the helm of the fashion house in 2010. Since then the Lacroix aesthetic has embraced all aspects of lifestyle and accessories, bringing new levels of luxury to everyday objects. ‘Since I took over the creative direction for the Christian Lacroix Maison brand in 2010, I have been working on the brand’s DNA in
order to keep the spirit, but with a totally new iconographic proposal,’ says Walckhoff. ‘We work a lot on developing new images and new trends based on huge research in all kinds of directions.’ With Christian Lacroix’s couture and prêtà-porter womenswear collections on hold since the eponymous founder’s departure,
Above: charger plate from the Christian Lacroix Maison Caribe collection
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Walckhoff has overseen the design of the men’s ready-to-wear collections as well as the Christian Lacroix fashion accessories lines. However, it’s the focus on homeware and lifestyle that has really pushed the brand forward, with Christian Lacroix Maison producing fabric, soft furnishings, wallpaper, tableware, stationery and candles. One of the most recent projects has been a collaboration with Dutch company Moooi, with which Walckhoff has created a range of carpets. The lifestyle collections have begun a new era for Christian Lacroix, yet behind this Walckhoff has carefully retained a consistent approach to design. ‘The principles are the same, but the products are different,’ he says. ‘My work for Lacroix is to keep the style alive and appealing, to find new ways to express the personality of the brand; it is not about old or new, it is more about keeping the house of Lacroix fresh and modern.’ Walckhoff’s ability to take the brand’s
baroque, flamboyant and colourful aesthetic and apply to it to lifestyle products is perfectly illustrated in the most recent Christian Lacroix Maison homeware collection, Art de Vivre. Celebrating French joie de vivre with dazzling colours and striking prints, it perfectly matches the brand’s signature bold style. Designs for the collection were inspired by the ‘Incroyables et Merveilleuses’ of the French Revolution ‒ the Unbelievables and the Marvellous Ones who wore bold colours representing their convictions. The range introduces new striped and floral prints, available as fabrics and also used in furniture upholstery and on soft furnishings as well as wallpaper. Motifs incorporate rosettes sported by soldiers in the Revolution, intricate bouquets paying homage to 18th-century gardens, and monochrome stripes, which were a symbol of liberty and freedom during the Revolutionary period. ‘I am fortunate enough to work for a
Above (clockwise from top left): Christian Lacroix Maison Frivolites pen; Maison de Jeu cushion; Christian Lacroix creative director Sacha Walckhoff; a phone case from the brand’s Love collection; Artemmis notebook
PHOTO: RICHARD POWERS
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brand that values tolerance, variety, liberty and fantasy,’ says Walckhoff. These values are clearly evident in the brand’s collaboration with porcelain specialist Vista Alegre, with whom it will launch two collections this year. The first, Madones, is a range of three porcelain trays, each decorated with silhouettes inspired by some of the house’s famed couture designs. The second, Love Who You Want, is a collection of plates and pillboxes featuring animal motifs, including the Monseigneur Bull, an aristocratic bull adorned with flowers and lace, and the Jungle King, a lion crowned with shimmering feathers. With homeware collaborations such as these drawing on the brand’s couture accomplishments, it’s clear that Walckhoff still pays homage to the creations of his predecessor and former mentor. But he struggles to pin down what he would consider to be the
definitive piece of Lacroix design. ‘It is a tough question,’ he muses, ‘as during all those years, many wonders have been created by the house of Lacroix. ‘In couture, our most definitive piece was the model 39, a red embroidered wedding gown made out of a torero cape that Madonna wore during her Reinvention tour, a piece from the Haute Couture autumn/winter 2002/2003 collection. In our lifestyle collections our Butterfly Parade pattern, which we’ve used across rugs, fabric, wallpaper and tableware, created in 2012, has been copied worldwide and is still a bestseller today.’ The success of these new avenues for Lacroix is testament to the brand’s enduring appeal, and with its creative vision continuing to extend into every corner of life, we can all look forward to having a slice of the luxury Lacroix lifestyle
Above (clockwise from top left): Incroyables et Merveilleuses from the Art de Vivre collection; Citrus rug from the Christian Lacroix Maison carpets collaboration with Moooi; pill box from the Love Who You Want (LWYW) collection, created with Vista Alegre
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TABLE TALK Take an all-day gastronomic journey through one of Paris’s most historic covered arcades, says Isabella Redmond Styles
The French capital is known for the sheer number and quality of its restaurants and cafés, and visitors rarely have to go far for a memorable meal. Nowhere is this more the case than in the passage des Panoramas, one of Paris’s first covered arcades, which opened in 1800. It was inspired by the bazaars and souks of more exotic climes, and its glazed roof, paved flooring and, after 1831, thoroughly innovative gas lighting made it a welcome retreat in all weathers. Smart Parisians came to stroll, to explore its specialist shops and, increasingly, to meet friends. Today, the charmingly retro passage off boulevard Montmartre packs a surprising range of places to eat into its 133-metre length. Visitors can start the day with a leisurely breakfast, including coffee to please the pickiest connoisseur, continue with a convivial lunch and a cake or two, and round it off with a glass of something and an indulgent dinner – all under one roof. globalblue.com
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PHOTO: STEPHANE ADAM
C A N A R D & C H A M PAG N E Behind a beautifully carved wooden frontage, Canard & Champagne focuses on two emblematic French products: duck and champagne. The restaurant’s interior preserves the building’s rich heritage while imbuing it with contemporary appeal, plus there’s an ‘outdoor’ terrace that allows diners to absorb the atmosphere of the arcade. Begin at the bar with a few appetisers of duck saucisson and rillettes, accompanied by sparkling cocktails. The menu offers a choice of two starters and three main courses, including duck breast fillet or homemade confit duck served with either homemade fries or seasonal vegetables. Canard & Champagne, 57 passage des Panoramas, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)9 8183 9569, frenchparadox.paris
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R AC I N E S
Racines is a French bistro with a difference, thanks to its excellent selection of biodynamic, organic and unsulphured wines. Locals and visitors flock here to enjoy a glass or two in a lively and convivial atmosphere, accompanied by updated classic dishes designed to complement the wine list. Daily specials reflect whatever has caught chef Renaud Marcille’s eye
CAFFÈ STERN
Occupying the former premises of historic Paris printer and engraver Stern, Caffè Stern brings a taste of Italy to the arcade. The sumptuous interior was designed by Philippe Starck, and provides a chic setting in which to savour everything from a lì per lì, a mini cappuccino that originated in Trieste, to a senza fretta, prepared in a Neapolitan coffee maker. The all-day menu takes in extra-virgin olive oil brioches for breakfast and Venetianstyle tapas (cicchetti) such as whipped salt cod with fried polenta for later in the day, along with dishes such as fried langoustines with bottarga (salted and cured fish roe) sauce for lunch and dinner. Caffè Stern, 47 passage des Panoramas, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 7543 6310, caffestern.fr globalblue.com
at the market that day, while the simple but delicious platters of cheese and charcuterie are always popular. This is unpretentious, authentic French cooking at its best. Racines, 8 passage des Panoramas, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4013 0641, racinesparis.com
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NOGLU
Noglu is proof that gluten-free cooking can produce truly delicious results. The restaurant and bakery was set up by Frédérique Jules in 2012, and everything is freshly made daily using organic produce where possible. If you’re in a rush, stop at the fantastic bakery, which turns out cakes that are so exemplary you’d never know they were made without wheat: choose from a tempting assortment of French
classics such as fruit tarts, as well as cheesecakes, brownies and carrot cake. In the restaurant, more substantial dishes include a classic hamburger along with plenty of vegetarian friendly and lactose-free plates. Noglu, 16 passage des Panoramas, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4026 4124, noglu.fr
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STAY IN STYLE The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best
DOWN HALL For a revitalising stay just 45 minutes from central London, and conveniently close to Stansted Airport, Down Hall is an exceptional choice. The spectacular building dates back to 1540 and is surrounded by 110 acres of gardens, woods and rolling countryside. The hotel’s 100 rooms have recently been renovated in a contemporary country-chic style, with feature bedrooms offering four-poster beds and breathtaking views. Make time to visit the Eden globalblue.com
Spa, with its hydrotherapy pool, steam room and sauna, and book in for a massage using Espa products or a Jessica Nails manicure. Round off your day with dinner at The Grill Room, where you can sample modern British cuisine: leg of guinea fowl stuffed with walnuts and tarragon, say, followed by chocolate fondant with pistachio ice cream. Down Hall, Matching Road, Hatfield Heath, Essex CM22 7AS, +44 (0)1279 731441, downhall.co.uk
PHOTO: VICENT MARI
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ONLY YOU HOTEL ATOCHA Set in a beautiful 19th-century building within easy reach of Madrid’s main sights, including the Prado museum and the El Retiro park, Only You Hotel Atocha provides an immaculately designed base for those keen to make the most of their stay in the Spanish capital. Opened in spring 2016, the hotel has 206 soundproofed rooms decorated in an airy contemporary style – think bare brick feature
walls, pale wood furniture and a low-key colour scheme – which are equipped with free Wi-Fi, a flatscreen TV and a rainfall shower. Enjoy the view from the rooftop terrace over a cocktail or a meal, relax over a snack in the lobby lounge, or hit the gym with the in-house personal trainer. Only You Hotel Atocha, Paseo de la Infanta Isabel 13, 28014 Madrid, +34 91 005 2746, onlyyouhotels.com
PHOTO: EXCELSIOR HOTEL GALLIA MILAN
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EXCELSIOR HOTEL GALLIA The Excelsior Hotel Gallia has reopened after extensive renovations and now encapsulates Milanese flair and elegance as never before. A new wing complements the existing belle époque-style building, and the striking overall design from local architect Marco Piva references Milanese culture and art deco while incorporating many original features. There are 235 rooms and suites, including the globalblue.com
generously sized Katara suite, which has two terraces, four bedrooms and its own private spa. The Executive suites, inspired by Milanese lofts, promise a more modest but no less elegant stay. Enjoy an expertly made cocktail at the rooftop Terrazza Gallia bar and restaurant, breakfast in style in the ground-floor Gallia restaurant and relax in the Shiseido Spa, the Japanese beauty brand’s first in Italy. Excelsior Hotel Gallia, Piazza Duca d’Aosta 9, 20124 Milan, +39 02 67851, excelsiorhotelgallia.com
PA R I S 2 AV E N U E M O N TA I G N E PA L A I S D E S CO N G R E S
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Paris, 35 Boulevard des Capucines - 75009 shop online harmontblaine.com
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GUIDE Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Paris with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from a fabulous shoe boutique to a store devoted to the finest fragrances for the home. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/paris.
PHOTO: MÓNICA R GOYA
A Glimpse of Paris
SHOP, the world’s leading travel and shopping guide, wants to learn more about you, our readers. To tell us more about yourself, and have the chance to win an iPad Pro, visit globalblue.com/shopsurvey, or scan the QR code. Above: originally constructed as the entrance to the 1889 Exposition Universale, the Eiffel Tower has since become a symbol of Paris
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Thierry Lasry Check out Thierry Lasry’s range of incredibly cool eyewear at his strikingly decorated new boutique. Thierry Lasry, 40 rue du Four, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4327 4465, thierrylasry.com FEATURED ON PAGE 40
Racines Visit the much-loved Racines bistro, which was one of the first venues in the city to embrace completely organic, unsulphured wine. Racines, 8 passage des Panoramas, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4013 0641, racinesparis.com FEATURED ON PAGE 64
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Piaget Fall in love with Piaget’s irresistibly romantic fine-jewellery designs. Piaget, 16 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 3280, piaget.com
SAINT-PAUL PONT MARIE
Céline Wright Discover Céline Wright’s exquisite lamps, a welcome addition to any home. Céline Wright, 56 rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Île, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4287 9948, celinewright.com FEATURED ON PAGE 34
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● ● ● ● ●
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● ● ● ● ●
● ● ● ●
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MASSIMO DUTTI PETIT BATEAU BONPOINT JM WESTON
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● SWATCH ● TAG HEUER
● ● ● ●
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
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74 | G U I D E
Avenue des Champs-Élysées West, Avenue George V & Rue François 1er
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES
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●
Place Of Interest
S H O P | 75
● GALERIE 26 ● ADIDAS ● BANANA REPUBLIC
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● GIORGIO ARMANI ● DAVIDOR
Café
Featured In This Issue
CO
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76 | G U I D E
BUCHERER
H GRINGOIRE Parisian jeweller H Gringoire has been a firm favourite with the French capital’s most elegant residents since it was established by goldsmith Achille Hourdequin in 1880. Visit the newly opened flagship store to discover a selection of innovative, feminine and traditionally crafted pieces that are suitable for every occasion. H Gringoire, 32 avenue Matignon, 75008 Paris, h-gringoire.fr
PHOTO: S D’HALLOY/I&CO
Bucherer has been creating high jewellery and watches for almost 130 years. For 2016 the brand has developed a new watch movement, the CFB (Carl F Bucherer) A2000, designed and developed entirely in its own workshops. This drives the classic yet innovative Manero Peripheral watch, which is available from the end of October. The new timepiece is an impressive blend of modern engineering and traditional horlogerie. It has a multi-faceted face displaying hours and minutes as well as seconds and the date. The Manero Peripheral watch comes in six models, which cost from €6,000 to €15,600: customers can choose to have the 44mm round case in either stainless steel or rose gold, while the dial comes in matte black or porcelain white; those who opt for the stainless-steel model can swap an alligator leather strap for a steel bracelet with a double-folding clasp. Visit the elegant Paris store to choose your ideal version. Bucherer, 12 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 7099 1888, bucherer.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 79
HELLE
NO RÉ
● KRIS VAN ASSCHE
Featured In This Issue
AV .D
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L’ O
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Place André Malraux
● FREY WILLE VIVIENNE ● WESTWOOD
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Non-Global Blue Retailer
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CAMILLE FOURNET ● RU E C A M B O N
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MAJE ●
SANDRO ●
RUE SAIN T- HON O R É
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● ● ● ●
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P.36
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● ● ● ●
RUE ROYALE
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PAULE KA ● PAUL SMITH ●
S H O P | 77
Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
Rue Saint-Honoré West
Rue Saint-Honoré East
DELVAU X ●
BRUCE FIELD ●
78 | G U I D E
Rue Tronchet, Place de la Madeleine, Boulevard Malesherbes, Rue Boissy d’Anglas, Boulevard de la Madeleine & Rue Royale GUERLAIN ●
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●
P.32
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RUE SAINT-HONORÉ ● POIRAY ● IRO ● ● ● ● ●
ROYAL QUARTZ EMILE LÉON O J PERRIN HAVILAND / DAUM ARTHUS BERTRAND
Metro
Café
Featured In This Issue
S H O P | 79
NE CI PU
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MENARD ● ALAIN FIGARET ● WASKOLL ● LANGE & SÖHNE ● VAN LAACK ● GAREL ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● POIRAY ●
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DUBAIL ●
P.41
Ritz Paris LO
P.38
GRAFF ●
RUE DE LA PAIX
● BOULANGER ● AIGLE ● TOMMY HILFIGER
Place Opéra ● JAIME MASCARO
● BENETTON
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● NINE WEST ● EQ:IQ LA CA ● ERIC BOMPARD PA F E D Place Opéra CLAUDIE M O PIERLOT ● NA A IX ● E P.3 M CO P M ● BENETTON 6 AI ● S ● BASLER M ON W BON O DIVINE ● PRINCESSE S A N T A B AT C B O R FRAGONARD ● ● TAM TA M TA M S B L A I Z H ● N G O N A● PHILIPPE CA HE NIT C ● FERRANDIS ● RT UE E ● ● CALIDA IE R ● GOLFINO ● R ● P.76 BUCHERER ● COMPTOIR DES ● IKKS COTONNIERS ● MAJE ● ERIC BOMPARD ● RUE DAUNOU PE GAP ● ● OMEGA RI G ● BALLY Z A OT ● RA ● ● HARMONT & BLAINE B GA AB ● LACOSTE P Y ● HACKETT ● ● MANFIELD ● GANT
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BURMA ● SWATCH ● L ANCEL ● GUESS ● DESIGUAL ● MATY ●
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Place Vendôme & Rue de la Paix
BO
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Boulevard des Capucines & Rue Scribe
● CHRISTOF LE ● TARTINE ET CHOCOLAT ● REPETTO ● LALIQUE ● ZIMMERLI ● BAUME ET MERCIER ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● LERY ● STARK & SONS ● DINH VAN ● BURMA ● FRED ● KORLOFF ● FOLLI FOLLIE ● BREITLING ● JAQUET DROZ ● ROLEX ● TIFFANY & CO. GLASHÜTT E ● ORIGINAL ● DAUM ● TECLA VACHERON ● CONSTANT IN
DA RUE
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French shoe label Robert Clergerie, now under the creative direction of Roland Mouret, is known worldwide for its stylish footwear. Its latest collection deftly combines the brand’s noteworthy heritage with Mouret’s own modern, sensual signature aesthetic. The timelessly elegant Admir ankle boot, with its chic low heel and bordeaux, red and orange suede suede, is ideal for winter. Robert Clergerie, 5 rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4548 7547, robertclergerie.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 80
Global Blue Refund Office
Hotel
OMEGA ●
CHOPARD ●
RUE SAIN T-H O NO R É
LS
PATEK ● PHILIPPE
●
FRED ●
ROBERT CLERGERIE
VA
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P.98
ROLEX ● JAEGER LECOULTRE ●
SANO
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Place Vendôme
COLOMBO VIA DELLA SPIGA ●
LE CA
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SELECTED STORES IN RITZ PARIS: Concept Store RUE SAIN T-HO NOR É
LOCAL TIP
True gourmets should make a visit to the Marché d’Aligre a priority. This fabulous outdoor food market is delightfully lively, and many of the capital’s top chefs rate its abundant and varied produce very highly. Marché d’Aligre, place d’Aligre, 75012 Paris
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ISABEL MARANT ●
MABILLON
ELEVEN PARIS ● DARMON ● LES PETITES ● AN’GE ● CAREL ● DU PAREIL AU MÊME ● ●L HUGO BOSS ● ● D ODIN ● N ARM G ● A ANIE ON IGL E
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BERLUTI ● ALAIN FIGARET ● CYRILLUS ● LE TANNEUR ● BIBA ●
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T T EN T IN R OO E SA L AU A B LL LA BI IE ● PA R M A RG ● IS MA E EX IN OR AL RT I AT O ● ● MA LV M EN CH V N ● S A AG A E● AR RA ● I C RR LIN K AF LE ● T FE R C É A C OO N ● ET PE M CH IL S ● AB GO I● TA IS G DI M. EL A M S I ●● NE I IN TA ● S RI A SE RO GE TE CA 5' S 4 IO AN IS ● CE ● RG SS P T U ● IN S E F R E - B A R E AR I S ● PR N U I R TT ● LA EA UT NE ME H ● DE J R A EN AM MIT ES KB SK LS IN L L E AU ● AR P S E CH LL UR YE MA IC VO I● ● ER F I F E N T● ED T FR KE AG U R A N ● WIC E I AT I S T I N ● ● OC HR UT ET ● C BO K U AR LO E M OR
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COP COPINE ● SINEQUANONE ● TARA JARMON ● ARTS ET BOOT SHOP ● BIJOUX ● TED LOUIS VUITTON ● CANDY BAKER ● ROCKET’S ● LES PETITES FABRICE ● PARISIENNES ● EMPORIO CITY PHARMA ● ● ARMANI DIA PO Brasserie FAÇONNABLE ● MA M D Lipp ’A NT GERARD DAREL ● ISS PI ● F ● CARON PARIS B SHU UEMURA ● ILL REEL IMO ● IES A COMPTOIR MA NCE ● DES COTONNIERS ● RK ● ARTHUR & FOX ET MURAT ● ● LES I CAMPAGNE JUST ● K MAUBOUSSIN ● CO M O N K S ● LIU JO ● LLE TR ● BURBERRY CT ES OR ●
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ITALIA ● INDEPENDENT HOTEL ● PARTICULIER ● REPETTO ● PATAUGAS ● TIMBERLAND ● CORIOLAN ● SEIDENSTICKER
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S H O P | 81
Rue Bonaparte
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Les Petits Joueurs offers quirky, statement accessories which have an international appeal. Its autumn/winter 2016/17 collection is both playful and desirable, with traditional ladylike structured handbags recast in textured and embellished materials that can’t help but boost spirits. Les Suites, 47 rue Pierre Charron, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5659 1111, lespetitsjoueurs.com
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S WA R OV SKI APO ● STR OPH E● ART FA B ● AG HUS R IC E ● A BER ● TE THA TRA REM ND ● D IN IS ● SE BAKER CEN CE ● IKO D IN H VA N LES M ● ● C IT D ID IE O N T R E S Y PH ● R GU ARM E R IN A ●
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82 | G U I D E OPENING TIMES Monday-Sunday: 10am-7pm
DAY TRIP LA VALLÉE VILLAGE Enjoy a unique luxury experience in an ‘open-sky’ outlet just 35 minutes from the centre of Paris and fve minutes from Disneyland ® Paris. La Vallée Village hosts more than 110 boutiques where luxury and fashion brands ofer their previous seasons’
PA R I S PARIS GARE DE LYON
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HOW TO GET THERE By Car from Paris Take the A4 motorway, exit at junction 12.1 and follow the signs to La Vallée Village; parking is free, with 2,300 spaces. By Car from Reims Leave the A4 at exit 14 and follow the signs for Marne-la-Vallée/Val d’Europe and then for Centre Commercial/Entrée A. By Train The closest TGV train station is Marne-la-Vallée-Chessy/Parc Disney station.
Outlet Village
Train Station
collections at prices reduced by a minimum of 33% from the recommended retail price. La Vallée Village, 3 cours de la Garonne, 77700 Serris, +33 (0)1 6042 3501, lavalleevillage.com
MARNE-LA-VALLÉE-CHESSY/ PARC DISNEY STATION VAL D'EUROPE/ SERRIS MONTÉVRAIN STATION La Vallée Village A4 A4
By RER train, take line A and exit at Val d’Europe/Serris Montévrain station. La Vallée Village is a 10-minute walk away. A shuttle bus runs from Val d’Europe station to La Vallée Village every Sunday. By Shopping Express ® coach service La Vallée Village’s Shopping Express ® service offers six daily departures from place des Pyramides, Porte Maillot and place du Trocadéro. Find more information about it on lavalleevillage.com/shoppingexpress.
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MY PERFECT DAY XIMENA DANERI, SHOP’S FASHION EDITOR, DESCRIBES HER PERFECT DAY AT LA VALLÉE VILLAGE 10am Start the day admiring the signature style of Kenzo. Be sure to pick up one of the label’s sweaters, whose prints are instantly recognisable. 12pm Take a break at Pret A Manger which serves a selection of filled baguettes, salads, fresh soups and a selection of ethically sourced organic coffees. 3pm Discover the secret of effortless chic at Sandro. The French label’s casual fashion for men and women is youthful, ultra-hip and romantic.
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4pm Perfect a look of understated cool by visiting The Kooples. The label’s collections combine vintage-inspired pieces with classic tailoring to create an androgynous style that is sure to stand out. 6pm End your day admiring the footwear and luxury leather goods available at Tod’s. The company is best known for its Gommino moccasin, made by hand and featuring 133 pins in its rubber sole.
DON’T MISS… SHOPPING DAY EXPERIENCE (€83) This exclusive package includes: Return tickets for the Shopping Express® luxury coach service from central Paris to the Village A VIP card providing a further 10% saving on purchases in six boutiques of your choice Lunch at Pret A Manger A €50 gift voucher to spend at a store of your choice
• • • •
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WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 300,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts. So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.
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Galeries Lafayete 40 boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris UME Galerie du Claridge, 74 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris UME Galerie 66 66 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris UME Galerie Élysées du 26 26 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris Bucherer 12 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris
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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 44: Paved With Gold
Золотая площадь
Многие часовые и ювелирные бренды мирового уровня выбрали Вандомскую площадь и ее окрестности для своих парижских флагманов. Ханна Льюис рассказывает о самых интересных аксессуарах и украшениях, за которыми стоит отправиться сюда в этом сезоне
PHOTO: SÉBASTIEN DERVIEUX
Вандомская площадь была заложена в 1702 году, чтобы увековечить славу армии короля Людовика XIV – одного из самых прославленных монархов французской, если не мировой истории. Большинство барочных зданий, обрамляющих площадь, созданы по проекту Жюля Ардуэн-Мансара, который постарался отразить грандиозность французской империи и монархии 18 века. Современная политическая культура Франции далека от помпы и экстравагантности, свойственных королям. Однако и в наши дни сохранилась та изысканность, с которой веками ассоциировалась Вандомская площадь и прилегающая к ней улица rue de la Paix. И французские, и иностранные бренды мирового уровня, в частности – ведущие
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представители ювелирной и часовой сфер, выбрали это место для своих представительств, поскольку во всем Париже нет другого исторического места, которое бы еще больше соответствовало их статусу. В 1899 году ювелирный дом Cartier открыл флагманский магазин на исторической улице rue de la Paix, которая соединяет Оперу Гарнье и Вандомскую площадь. Бутик вскоре стал знаковым для компании: присущие ему элегантность и величие подчеркивают особый статус Cartier в сфере высокого ювелирного искусства. Именно этот магазин в числе первых в мире стал продавать наручные часы, и с годами этот новаторский дух Cartier только усиливается. Стоит уделить особое внимание самым знаменитым сериям бренда – ювелирной линии Panthère и коллекции наручных часов Tank. Бренд Buccellati воплощает итальянскиè дух в тоè же мере, как Cartier – французскиè. И он тоже выбрал Вандомскую площадь для своего парижского магазина: «Украшения Buccellati отличаются от других, потому что они построены на деталях, восходящих к ювелирным техникам итальянского Ренессанса», – объясняет президент и креативныè директор компании Андреа Буччеллати. Buccellati использует драгоценные камни и металлы высшеè пробы для создания изысканных украшениè, часов и даже аксессуаров для дома. В новоè коллекции Opera представлены украшения из классическоè линии, вдохновленноè Ренессансом, с добавлением ярких камнеè – лазурита, перламутра, оникса, розового опала и яшмы. Неподалеку от Buccellati расположен бутик американского ювелирного бренда Tifany & Co, славу которому принесли бриллианты и узнаваемые голубые коробочки. Легендарное кольцо Tifany® Setting, пожалуè, можно назвать самым известным в истории: оно воплощает все
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самое ценное, что есть в обручальных кольцах. Бутик этого ювелирного дома на Вандомской площади просто обязан быть первым в списке каждого, кто собирается сделать предложение своей второй половине. Эффектные и волнующие украшения Bulgari покорили весь мир. В бутике на Вандомской площади, которому в 2016 году исполняется 20 лет, представлена полная коллекция ювелирного дома, включая аксессуары, украшения и часы. Часы Bulgari вобрали в себя все достижения швейцарского часового искусства и неповторимый итальянский стиль, характерный для бренда. Лучшие металлы и драгоценные камни делают эти хронометры идеальными для особого случая. Кроме того, особого внимания заслуживает представленная здесь ювелирная линия Serpenti, посвященная змеиным мотивам. Парижская марка Boucheron была основана в 1858 году и с тех пор остается уважаемым экспертом ювелирного дела. Ее основатель Фредерик Бушерон одним из первых выбрал Вандомскую площадь для своего магазина в 1893 году, и с тех пор этот бутик пользуется заслуженным вниманием покупателей. Уже более 150 лет произведения Boucheron входят в число лучших экземпляров высокого ювелирного искусства. Вслед за ними и эксклюзивные хронометры этого бренда приобрели особый статус в часовом деле. Бренд с большой историей Van Cleef & Arpels появился на Вандомской площади в 1906 году. Изначально он располагался в доме номер 22, напротив отеля Ritz, но недавно он расширился – и теперь занимает дома с 20 по 24. В новом пространстве, оформленном в мягких кремовых и бежевых оттенках, можно познакомиться с особенным подходом Van Cleef & Arpels к высокому ювелирному искусству. Бренд черпает вдохновение из природного мира и воплощает фантазийные и волшебные образы. Неподалеку находится основной бутик марки Piaget – всемирного эксперта в ювелирном деле. На сегодня это самый globalblue.com
амбициозный магазин французского бренда, и он сам по себе посвящен торжеству изысканного мастерства. Это проявляется и в неподражаемом оформлении пространства, и в высочайшем профессионализме ювелиров, создающих восхитительные ожерелья, браслеты, кольца и серьги. Помимо узнаваемых украшений, здесь же можно познакомиться и с ассортиментом часов Piaget. Ни один ценитель часов не может покинуть Париж, не посетив представительство швейцарского часового бренда Patek Philippe на Вандомской площади. В его витринах представлены и мужские, и женские часы, а профессиональный персонал всегда готов помочь выбрать подходящую модель. Компания Patek Philippe отдала предпочтение этому месту, потому что это одна из лучших в мире витрин для изысканных часов и украшений. Вандомскую площадь избрали бренды высочайшей пробы, и было бы непростительным упустить возможность побывать здесь. 50: Game Changers
Возмутители спокойствия Харриет Куик рассказывает о самых интересных брендах новой волны, которые постепенно преображают моду Парижа Модный небосклон Парижа переживает серьезные перемены. Прежде здесь правила балом кокетливая женственность, созданная крупными модными домами Chanel, Lanvin и Christian Dior. А теперь шаг вперед делает новое поколение дизайнеров, которые придерживаются радикально другого подхода и открывают совершенно новую главу в истории парижского стиля. Именно они возглавили Vetements, Jacquemus, Koché и другие новые марки, а также заново открывают известные бренды с историей, как, например, Balenciaga, Courrèges и Paco Rabanne. Вместе они бросают вызов устоявшейся формуле «маленького черного платья» и создают моду с собственной
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точкой зрения. Лидер этого движения – Демна Гвасалиа, сооснователь Vetements и новый креативный директор Balenciaga. Бренд Vetements, в создании которого он принимал участие, изначально был не слишком известен и мог претендовать только на параллельную программу. В этом сезоне ситуация обратная: новая коллекция марки сезона осень-зима, представленная в церкви, стала самым востребованным событием. Анна Винтур, Эммануэль Альт и Александра Шульман, редакторы журнала Vogue в США, Франции и Великобритании соответственно, сидели в первом ряду, а сотни желающих попасть в зал боролись за возможность войти. «Такое внимание немного пугает. Но я не думаю, что это напрямую касается меня лично или Vetements. Скорее, это говорит о состоянии моды сегодня, – утверждает Гвасалиа. – Мы создали этот бренд два с половиной года назад с нуля. Мы показали, что это возможно, это не пустая мечта, что можно построить построить модную марку с нуля». Над брендом работает дружная команда, частью которой является Демна Гвасалия: свои идеи дизайнеры придумали «на кухне», наслаждаясь вином и сигаретами. «Если вы слишком увлекаетесь стратегией, вы рискуете забыть о сущности. А ведь наше дело – создавать одежду», – говорит Гвасалия с интонацией, не подразумевающей возражения. Влияние стритстайла и любовь к свободным силуэтам делают одежду Vetements узнаваемой и проявляются в обéемных или приспущенных плечах байкерских курток, культовых джинсах, сшитых из отрезов денима, или расслабленной развязности спортивных брюк. «Мне нравится, что небольшими штрихами можно полностью преобразить предмет одежды», – комментирует Гвасалия. Демна Гвасалия родом из Грузии, он работал на Maison Martin Margiela, а также на Louis Vuitton под руководством Марка Джейкобса. Он так же хорошо разбирается в кройке и шитье, как и в постановке модных шоу. Он привнес «дух высокой моды» в дебютную коллекцию для модного дома с большой историей Balenciaga. Это проявилось
в женственных строгих костюмах с обéемными бедрами и плечами, стильных брюках и покрытых кристаллами туфлях на каблуках. Желание идти против трендов и заново определить понятие утонченности характерно не только для Гвасалиа. Дизайнеру Симону Порт Жакмю 26 лет, он родился во Франции и самостоятельно осваивал профессию. И он представляет другой образ модного Парижа. Источником вдохновения для линии одежды под собственным именем стали дерзкие красавицы, которых можно встретить на окраинах и которые носят продуманные, но современные комплекты. К сезону осень-зима 2016/17 Жакмю приготовил авангардные, но в то же время удобные брюки очень свободного кроя, костюмы в тонкую полоску, которые завязываются лентами, и драпированные топы-бюстье с шлейфами. «Я одержим распространением моей одежды, и это экономическая реальность: мне нужно делать настоящие продажи», – делится Жакмю. Похоже, он близок к цели, поскольку развивает сотрудничество с розничными продавцами по всему миру. Андре Курреж основал бренд Courrèges в Париже в 1960-е, а сейчас его переосмысляют дизайнеры Себастьен Мейер и Арно Вайан. Они сосредоточились на универсальных вещах, что напрямую связано с наследием бренда: характерными примерами могут стать знаковые куртки-бомберы, пальто с эффектом помятости и обтягивающие свитеры. Если вы ищете небольшие кожаные вещи, которые легко упаковываются в плоские пакеты и не занимают много места, то вам точно стоит ознакомиться с коллекциями Courrèges. Эти дизайнеры молоды, но они не страдают от недостатка опыта. Они прекрасно осведомлены о традициях и техниках кроя, плавности линий и отделке, и они умело соединяют эти знания со своими актуальными идеями. Днем Кристель Коше из Koché работает на ателье Maison Lemarié, которое принадлежит Chanel и славится декоративной отделкой своих моделей, особенно перьями и цветами. А вечером она творит собственную коллекцию, с перьями и бисером на сетчатых платьях и с коллажами из разных тканей, придающими платьям особую атмосферность.
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В этом сезоне она представляла свои работы в торговой галерее 18 века, где сейчас работают парикмахеры афро-карибского происхождения. «Я хочу поделиться моим Парижем с другими людьми», – так объясняет она свой мультикультурный стиль. Новая модная сила ощущается и за пределами парижских подиумов, поскольку все больше магазинов интересуются новым направлением. Чтобы это увидеть, нужно обязательно побывать в концепт-сторе Tom Greyhound, основанном корейским предпринимателем. Магазин и кафе Te Broken Arm в квартале Марэ стал магнитом для ценителей стиля, поклонников малоизвестного денима и знатоков дизайна. Побывав в любом из этих бутиков, можно воочию увидеть, как молодые и продвинутые парижане относятся к шоппингу. Это важный момент для модной жизни французской столицы. На подиумах, в магазинах или просто на улицах участников этого движения объединяет одно – любовь к Парижу. 56: Fortune Favours The Brave
Яркий выход
Под руководством Саши Валькхоффа бренд Christian Lacroix расширяет сферу своего влияния и представляет великолепные аксессуары для дома. Руайрид Притчард поговорил с дизайнером о будущем знаменитого модного дома Christian Lacroix готовится к празднованию своего 30-летия в следующем году. Однако всеобщее внимание привлекает вовсе не одежда бренда, а невероятная коллекция аксессуаров для дома и стиля жизни. От диванных подушек и столовой утвари до тканей и канцтоваров, – Christian Lacroix привносит свой особенный стиль в лучшие интерьеры по всему миру. Руководит созданием и выпуском новой коллекции французский дизайнер Саша Валькхофф. Он работал во многих парижских модных домах с такими мэтрами, как Жан Реми Дюма, Доротея Би и Мишель Кляйном, а в 1996 году стал студийным директором Christian Lacroix. В 2010, после globalblue.com
ухода из компании самого Кристиана Лакруа, Валькхофф возглавил модный дом. С этого момента эстетика Lacroix распространяется на все аспекты повседневной жизни, и знакомые каждому предметы переосмысляются на совершенно новом уровне. «С 2010 года, то есть со дня вступления на пост креативного директора бренда Christian Lacroix Maison, я работаю на развитие идентичности и узнаваемости бренда. Моя задача – сохранить его неповторимый дух, но в совершенно новом визуальном виде, – рассказывает Валькхофф. – Мы много работаем над новыми образами и трендами, основанными на большом исследовательском процессе по всем направлениям». После того как основатель марки покинул компанию, женские коллекции и высокой моды, и готовой одежды пока отложены. Усилия Валькхоффа сосредоточены на коллекции готовой мужской одежды и линии модных аксессуаров под брендом Christian Lacroix. Именно сосредоточенность на аксессуарах для дома и повседневной жизни по-настоящему двигает бренд вперед: Christian Lacroix Maison производит ткани, обивку, обои, столовую утварь, канцтовары и свечи. Одним из недавних проектов компании стала серия ковров, созданных совместно с датской компанией Moooi. Взлет этих направлений подарил новую жизнь Christian Lacroix. В то же время Валькхофф сумел сохранить традиционный для этого бренда подход к дизайну: «Принципы остались прежними, изменился только сам продукт. Моя работа в Lacroix заключается в поддержании жизнеспособности и привлекательности знаменитого стиля и поиске новых способов для его выражения. Дело не в старом или новом, а в том, что модный дом Lacroix должен оставаться актуальным и современным», – комментирует дизайнер. Умение Валькхоффа применять барочную, пышную, насыщенную эстетику бренда к аксессуарам для жизни в полной мере проявилось в новой коллекции Art de Vivre для Christian Lacroix Maison. Французский подход к радостям жизни, известный как joie de vivre, нашел свое выражение в ослепительных цветах и ярких принтах, и это идеальное воплощение
57 AV EN UE M ON TAIGN E 8E - PARIS
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фирменного стиля бренда. Французская революция с ее «incroyables et merveilleuses» («невероятными и дивными») героями послужила источником вдохновения для этой коллекции: ведь именно сочные оттенки в одежде стали для них символом их убеждений. Модный дом представил новые полосатые и цветочные принты и узоры, которые применил к тканям и обоям, а также к обивке и декору мебели. В числе сквозных мотивов можно увидеть розетки, которые надевали солдаты во время событий Французской революции; изысканные букеты, напоминающие о садах 18 века; и монохромные полоски – символ свободы и независимости того времени. «Мне повезло работать на бренд, чьими ключевыми ценностями являются толерантность, многообразие, свобода и фантазия», – подчеркивает Валькхофф. Эти ценности проявились и в сотрудничестве модного дома с компанией Vista Alegre, которая специализируется на фарфоре: в этом году появится две созданные совместно серии. Одна из них называется Madones и состоит из трех фарфоровых подносов с силуэтами прославленных нарядов haute couture Christian Lacroix. Вторая называется Love Who You Want и представляет собой набор тарелок и таблетниц с изображениями животных, в том числе – аристократичного быка Monseigneur Bull с цветами и кружевами и Короля джунглей – льва с короной из перьев и кружев. Судя по этим коллаборациям, основанным на достижениях бренда в области высокой моды, Валькхофф с пиететом относится к творениям своего предшественника и бывшего наставника. Он прилагает все усилия, чтобы обнаружить характерные для дизайна Lacroix вещи: «Это сложный вопрос, ведь за столько лет модный дом под руководством Лакруа выпустил множество изумительных вещей, – отмечает дизайнер задумчиво. – В сфере высокой моды самой характерной вещью стала модель 39 – красное свадебное платье с вышивкой, сделанное из накидки тореро. Оно вошло в коллекцию Haute Couture осень-зима 2002/2003, и Мадонна выступала в нем в рамках тура Reinvention. Среди наших коллекций аксессуаров для жизни можно выделить узор globalblue.com
Butterfy Parade, который мы использовали на ковриках, тканях, обоях и столовых предметах. Узор появился в 2012, его копировали множество раз во всем мире, и он до сих пор остается бестселлером». Успех нового пути свидетельствует о непреходящей привлекательности стиля Lacroix. И поскольку его креативный подход распространяется на всё новые сферы, у нас становится больше возможностей приобщиться к образу жизни в стиле Lacroix. 84: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €175.01 и сэкономьте в среднем 12% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.
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美文翻译 44: Paved With Gold 遍地烁金 历史悠久的旺多姆（Vendôme）地区云集了众多举 世闻名的高级腕表和珠宝品牌。Hannah Lewis带 您寻觅最令人向往的当季优品 旺多姆广场（Place Vendôme）始建于1702年，是路 易十四雄师凯旋的明证。这位国王誉满天下，是法兰 西乃至全世界历史上最著名的国王之一。气派恢宏 的广场上，巴洛克建筑鳞次栉比，它们大多由Jules Hardouin-Mansart操刀设计，18世纪法兰西帝国 之富丽与君主统治之堂皇尽显其中。 法国的政治文化或已挥别历任国王的浮华奢 靡，但奢华大气的旺多姆广场及其毗连的和平街 （rue de la Paix）却留存至今。这块宝地云集了来自 世界各地的奢侈大牌，尤其是高级珠宝与时计。从最 具盛名的法兰西品牌到最顶尖的国际巨头，放眼巴 黎，唯有这里方能奉上如此丰富的名品盛宴。 1899年，卡地亚（Cartier）旗舰店入驻巴黎和 平街。从地标性的巴黎歌剧院（Opéra Garnier） 通向旺多姆广场，这条和平街承载了厚重的历史。 这家卡地亚精品店已然成为该品牌的一大标志，也 正是得益于它所彰显的高雅气质，卡地亚才稳居高 级珠宝腕表界之前列。这家旗舰店是世界上最早销 售腕表的店铺之一，而卡地亚的开拓精神也从未随 时光淡却。您可以在此探索品牌旗下最知名的系列 作品，例如Panthère珠宝家族和标志性的Tank时 计系列。 在巴黎不远处安家的是意大利品牌Buccellati 巴黎精品店。意大利之Buccellati犹如法国之卡地 亚。“Buccellati珠宝之所以脱颖而出，奥秘在于其 丰富的细节处理，源自意大利文艺复兴时期的金匠 工艺流传至今，”品牌总裁兼创意总监Andrea Buccellati 如是说。Buccellati博采众长，以最珍贵 的稀石贵金打造出精巧雅致的珠宝、时计甚至是家 居饰物。在最新推出的Opera系列中，Buccellati将 璀璨夺目的宝石点缀到了品牌标志性的文艺复兴风 格作品之中，青金石、珍珠母、缟玛瑙、粉色蛋白石 和碧玉交相辉映，分外夺目。 距离Buccellati不远处，便是蒂芙尼（Tiffany & Co）精品店了。这家源自美国的珠宝商因奢华靓 丽的美钻和辨识度极高的蓝色盒子闻名遐迩。说到 订婚戒指，传奇的Tiffany® Setting已然成为奢侈 的代名词，堪称有史以来最著名的一枚钻戒。如果 要向心仪的那个人求婚，这家精品店应是每个人的 第一选择。 激动人心、流光溢彩的作品，令宝格丽
（Bulgari）誉满天下。在该品牌的旺多姆广场旗舰 店内，便可购得全线宝格丽产品，珠宝、腕表与各类 配饰陈列其间，分外夺目。到2016年为止，这家门店 已走过了20个春秋。一件件宝格丽时计中，瑞士钟 表的非凡品质与意大利人的卓越匠心珠联璧合；该 品牌严格选用最优质的金属与最珍贵的宝石，不啻 为特别时刻的完美之选。受婀娜蛇形启发的 Serpenti珠宝系列可谓别出心裁，是宝格丽的另一 大亮点。 巴黎高端珠宝品牌宝诗龙（Boucheron）自 1858年创立以来，一直备受尊崇。创始人Frédéric Boucheron是最早于旺多姆广场置业的珠宝商之 一，他于1893年在此地开设门店，至今这家精品店 依然风靡如初。150余年的苦心孤诣令宝诗龙跻身 世界顶级珠宝商之列，而其精致优雅的腕表作品在 时计观园中同样流光溢彩。 坐落于此的另一大品牌梵克雅宝（Van Cleef & Arpels）同样拥有令人赞叹的历史。1906年，其精品 店在和平街22号开业，正对着利兹酒店（Ritz）。近 几年品牌店扩张至和平街20号和24号。清爽的米色 与浅褐色基调令店内空间极具现代感，梵克雅宝独 具一格的高端珠宝陈列其间，散发着源于自然世界 的美妙灵感，呈现出梦幻而魅惑的视觉效果。 几步之外，便是享誉全球的伯爵（Piaget）高级 珠宝腕表旗舰店。该法国品牌迄今为止最气势恢弘 的店面便是这家，它俨然是一曲献给人类不朽工艺 的美妙赞歌：不仅店铺本身由无可比拟的技艺造 就，每一件灿烂夺目的项链、手镯、戒指和耳环背 后，皆蕴含了举世难寻的卓绝才华。这里不仅有伯 爵标志性的高级珠宝作品，还有一位制表专家常驻 店内。 如果还没有踏进瑞士制表商百达翡丽（Patek Philippe）在旺多姆广场的精品店，腕表爱好者们绝 不应草草离开巴黎。这里不仅男女款时计一应俱全， 更有专家在旁贴心导购。百达翡丽素来强调，之所以 选址于此，是由于这座广场可谓全世界最好的高级 腕表与珠宝展示地之一。如此门第高贵的品牌荟萃， 哪有理由不去造访一番？
50: Game Changers 时尚变革者 一批方兴未艾的新兴品牌正在改变巴黎时尚界 的面貌。Harriet Quick与其中几位时尚中人深入交 流，一探究竟 巴黎的苍穹之下，正发生着翻天覆地的变化。在 这个原本由俏丽淑女装独领风骚，香奈儿（Chanel） 、 朗凡（Lanvin） 和迪奥（Christian Dior）等时 尚巨头呼风唤雨的地方，一股新的潮流正在蓬勃发
展，书写着巴黎时尚史的新篇章。Vetements、 Jacquemus、Koché等新兴品牌以及一众老品牌重 整旗鼓——如巴黎世家（Balenciaga）、Courrèges 和Paco Rabanne ——都将一大批标新立异的设计 师纳入了麾下。总而言之，他们向以“小黑裙”为首的 陈词滥调发起了挑战，试图以前卫独到的视角创造 新的时尚。 作为这场变革的代表人物，Demna Gvasalia是 Vetements品牌的联合创始人，同时也是巴黎世家 的新任创意总监。他所帮助创建的Vetements一度 默默无闻；而如今，该品牌在一家教堂举办的最新秋 冬系列时装秀已成为当季最炙手可热的时尚盛 宴。Vogue杂志美国版、巴黎版和英国版主编Anna Wintour、Emmanuelle Alt 和Alexandra Shulman亲临前排观秀，而其余几百人则是挤破了 头才得以入场。 “这种关注有些让人心惊肉跳。但我觉得人们所 关注的更多是当今时尚界的态势，而不仅仅是我和 Vetements，”Gvasalia说道。“我们花了两年半时 间，从零开始缔造了这个品牌。我们向世人证明，从 无到有开创一番事业并非遥不可及的梦想。”这位设 计师只是品牌背后紧密协作的团队当中的一员，他 们的灵感往往迸发在“餐桌之上”，成形于一杯杯佐 餐白葡萄酒和一根根香烟之间。“如果脑子里装满策 略，你就容易舍本逐末。我们要做的就是做衣服而 已，”Gvasalia如是说，而事实也恰恰如此。 Vetements的服饰辨识度极高，这要归功于该 品牌从街头穿着汲取灵感，及其颠覆性的轮廓设 计：不论是摩托夹克上或收缩或后抛的肩带，还是由 不同斜纹牛仔布拼接而成的如今已成为招牌的牛仔 裤，抑或是时髦张扬的低裆宽松运动裤，我们都能 从中窥得一斑。“我喜欢这些精妙灵活的设计手法给 服装外观带来的变化，”Gvasalia说道。 这位出生于格鲁吉亚的设计师曾供职于设计师 品牌 Maison Martin Margiela，还在路易威登为 Marc Jacobs工作过。他不仅是各大秀场的座上宾， 更精通剪裁和缝制技艺。在加入巴黎世家后的首秀 上，他为这一历史悠久的品牌带来了“高级态度”，向 观众呈现了臀部设计夸张而肩部线条极宽的定制淑 女套装、奢华的休闲长裤以及用水晶石精心点缀的 无带船型高跟鞋。 引领潮流风尚的志向以及重新定义高端精致时 尚的理念并非Gvasalia一人所独有。26岁的法国设 计师Simon Porte Jacquemus是一位自学成才的奇 人，他为当今巴黎带来了别样的时尚观点。他的同名 服装系列从郊野之地随处可见的粗野之美当中汲取 灵感，同时融合了时髦元素与当代风格。2016/17秋 冬季，Jacquemus推出了前卫大胆却容易搭配的超 阔腿裤、结饰系带细条纹西装以及褶缀紧身带尾胸 衣。“我非常热衷于推销我的衣服，这是一种经济上 globalblue.com
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解。巴黎的时尚界正处于一个令人激动的阶段。不论 是在秀场中、店铺内还是街头上，正是对巴黎的热爱 将这些时尚达人紧紧地联系在一起。
56: Fortune Favours The Brave 大胆启程
PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM
Christian Lacroix的创意总监Sacha Walckhoff正 用奢华大气的家居用品拓展品牌的发展之路。他与 Ruairidh Pritchard畅谈这一知名品牌的未来
的现实需求：把它们卖掉才是真的，”Jacquemus 说。随着他的品牌受到世界各地零售商的广泛好评， 看起来他已经在实现自己的目标。 Courrèges是由André Courrèges于1960年代 开创的巴黎本土品牌，如今它在Sébastien Meyer 和Arnaud Vaillant两个人手中焕发出新的生命力。 这对双人组合沿袭品牌传统，专注于开发多功能服 饰，例如飞行夹克衫、褶皱漆皮外套以及紧身针织 衫。如果您想找一件能够折叠装入挎包的皮件单 品，那么Courrèges就是您的不二选择。 这些设计师年纪轻轻却经验丰富。他们深谙从 剪裁到工艺流程再到装饰的各项传统和技艺，并将 它们与现代观念融合在一起。白天，Koché工作室的 Christelle Kocher在Maison Lemarié工作，这家 目前由香奈儿拥有的工作室凭借装饰性镶边闻名遐 迩，尤精于羽毛和花卉的应用。到了晚上，她则徜徉 嬉戏于自己的服装系列，用羽毛和珠子装点网眼裙， 通过拼贴混搭各种织物，为裙装增添个人风格。本 季，她在一座建于18世纪的商廊里展示了她的设计 系列，那里现在是加勒比黑人发型师们的乐土。提 起她融合多元文化的设计风格，她说：“我想把我眼 中的巴黎分享给大家。” 在T台和秀场之外，您同样能感受到巴黎的这 股新兴力量，不少店铺已经开始热情拥抱这股潮 流。由一位韩国企业家创立的概念店Tom Greyhound是一处必游之地，而玛莱区（Marais） 的The Broken Arm则是一家低调质朴的店铺，它 集咖啡屋和服装店于一身，深受潮流追寻者、个性 牛仔装粉丝以及设计爱好者的青睐。以上这两家精 品店都会让您对巴黎时尚青年的购物偏好有所了
正当Christian Lacroix筹备其明年的30周年大庆 之时，最引人注目的却并非这一正统高级时装品牌的 系列服饰，而是其纷繁多样的生活方式新品。从靠垫 到餐具，从织物到文具，Christian Lacroix将别具 一格的奢华风范带入了世界各地的时尚宅邸。 这些外观华丽的家居用品均由Sacha Walckhoff指导设计。在1996年成为 Christian Lacroix工作室总监之前，这位法国设计师曾供职于 多家巴黎时尚巨头，与Jean Rémy Daumas、Dorothée Bis和Michel Klein等多位创 意大师共过事。Christian Lacroix离开自己一手创 立的公司之后，Walckhoff 于2010年毅然接手了这 家时装品牌。自那以后，Lacroix的审美理念就开始 贯穿到生活方式及家居装饰的方方面面，将日用品 的奢美华丽提升至新的层次。 “自我于2010年开始负责Christian Lacroix Maison的创意指导以来，便一直在研究Lacroix的 品牌基因，试图在保留其灵魂的同时，呈现出全新的 视觉效果，”Walckhoff说道。“我们在许多不同的领 域进行了大量研究，并努力在其基础上开发新的形 象和潮流。” 随着同名创始人的离去， Walckhoff 不得不冻 结Christian Lacroix的高级定制和女士成衣系列， 于是将更多精力用于男士成衣系列和Christian Lacroix时尚配饰的设计。 但是，真正推动品牌发展的，是其对家居用品和 生活方式的关注。如今Christian Lacroix Maison 生产织物、软装潢、墙纸、餐具、文具和蜡烛，与荷 兰企业Moooi的合作便是最近的范例之 一，Walckhoff为该项目创作了一系列不同样式的地 毯。 生活方式系列作品为Christian Lacroix打开了 新纪元的大门，但在其背后Walckhoff的设计态度依 然不变。“产品千变万化，原则却始终如一，”他说 道。“我在Lacroix的工作是确保设计风格具有活力 和吸引力，不断寻找新的手段来表现品牌个性。所以 新还是旧并不是问题的关键，关键在于要让Lacroix 始终保持鲜活和时尚。” Walckhoff能力非凡，能够准确把握该品牌华
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丽缤纷的巴洛克式审美，并将其运用到生活方式产 品上。这种才能在 Christian Lacroix Maison 最 新的家居用品系列“生活的艺术”（Art de Vivre）中 得到了完美体现。该系列运用艳丽的色彩和醒目的 印花，向法语中“生活之乐”（joie de vivre）的概念致 敬，与该品牌标志性的大胆风格相得益彰。 这一系列的设计受到了法国大革命期间“奇装异 服”（Incroyables et Merveilleuses）的启发——在 那个时代，穿着奇装异服的人们借用鲜艳的色彩表 达自身信仰。该系列将全新的条纹及花卉图案用于 织物、家具垫衬物、软装潢和墙纸上，其图案设计糅 合了法国大革命期间曾在军装上使用的花结，向18 世纪花园致敬的纷繁精致的花束，以及在大革命时 期象征着自由的单色条纹。 “我很荣幸能为这样一个重视宽容、多样性、自 由和幻想的品牌工作，”Walckhoff如是说。今年该 品牌与陶瓷专家Vista Alegre合作出品两套瓷器，其 价值品质可见一斑。其中第一套名为“圣母像” （Madones），该系列由三只瓷盘组成，每只瓷盘的 轮廓都取材于Lacroix的经典服装设计。第二套“爱 汝所想”（Love Who You Want）则是饰有动物图 样的碟子和小盒，这些图案包括“公牛阁下” （Monseigneur Bull）——一只周身饰有鲜花和蕾 丝的贵族公牛，还有“丛林之王”（ Jungle King）——一只头顶带着由闪光羽毛和蕾丝编成的 王冠的狮子。
Christian Lacroix的家居系列承载着品牌在服 装设计领域的造诣，不难看出Walckhoff 依然对自 己的这位前任掌门和前导师心存敬意。但在确立 Lacroix最具决定性的设计时，他也陷入了挣扎。“这 是一道难题，”他沉思道，“毕竟这么多年当 中，Lacroix着实创造了不少堪称奇迹的作品。 “在高级服装设计方面，我们最重要的作品是第 39号，它发布于2002/2003秋冬高级女装系列，是 一件红色刺绣新娘礼服，乍看上去有点儿像一件斗 牛士斗篷，麦当娜就曾在‘忏悔之旅’（Reinvention） 巡回演出时穿过它。在生活方式系列中，‘蝴蝶锦簇’ （Butterfly Parade）图案扮演着举足轻重的角色， 我们曾将它用在地毯、织物、墙纸和餐具上；这个图 案自2012年问世以来，在世界各地广受欢迎，至今 仍是我们的畅销之作。” Lacroix在这些新渠道上的成功证明了品牌的 持久力。随着它将创意的目光投向生活的每一个角 落，我们都能寄望于领略到Lacroix生活方式的奢华 风范。 84: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的30万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻 找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过 程：
1. 消费购物 无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联退税表格 （Global Blue Tax Free Form），并记得保存小 票。 2. 申请退税 当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城市的海关柜台 请他们在您的退税表格上盖章，然后再到环球蓝联 的退税点领取您的退税款。
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لوازم النزل وأسلوب الحياة الميّز ،فباتت علمة Christian Lacroix Maisonتنتج القمشة والبياضات وورق الجدران ولوازم الائدة والقرطاسيّة والشموع .ومن أحدث الشاريع ،تعاونها مع الشكة الهولندية Moooiليبتكر Walckhorffمعها مجموعة من الس ّجادات. شكّلت مجموعات القطع البتكرة حقبة جديدة بالنسبة إل ،Christian Lacroixمع التزام Walckhoffبقاربة ثابتة إل التصميم .يقول ف هذا الصدد“ :البادئ هي هي ،لكن النتجات مختلفة .تتمثّل مه ّمتي لدى Lacroixبالحافظة عل حيويّة السلوب وجاذبيّته وبإيجاد طرق جديدة للتعبي عن هويّة العلمة؛ ليست السألة مسألة قديم أو جديد ،بل البقاء عل دار Lacroixنضا ً وحديثاً”. تتجسد قدرة Walckhorffعل حمل أسلوب العلمة ّ الباروك الباهر الفعم باللوان وتطبيقه عل النتجات البتكرة، ف أحدث مجموعة لوازم منزليّة من Christian Lacroix حب الحياة .Maison، Art de Vivreتعتمد الجموعة مبدأ ّ ٍ ونقوش ملفتة ،ما يتلءم تاماً مع الفرنس وتتجمه بألوان ساحرة أسلوب العلمة الجريء الميّز. ِ استوحيت تصاميم الجموعة من الحركة الشبابيّة الفرنسيّة Incroyables et Merveilleusesالتي نشأت ف الثورة الفرنسيّة ،حيث كان الشباب يرتدون اللوان الجريئة تعبيا ً عن معتقداتهم .تقدّم الجموعة نقوشاً جديدة مقلّمة بالخطوط أو غنيّة بالزهار ،متوافرة كأقمشة وتُستخدم ف تنجيد الثاث وف البياضات وكذلك ف ورق الجدران .تشمل التصاميم أوسمة زيّنت صدور جنود الثورة وباقات تذكّر بحدائق القرن الثامن عش وأشطة بالبيض والسود ،كلّها رموز التح ّرر والحريّة ف حقبة الثورة. يقول “ :Walckhoffمن حسن حظّي أنّني أعمل لعلم ٍة تتجل هذه القيم تدر” قيمة التسامح والتن ّوع والحريّة والخيال”ّ . الختصة بالخز“ Vista بوضوح ف تعاون العلمة مع الشكة ّ ،Alegreالتي ستطلق مجموعتي هذا العام .الول Madones كل مزخرفة برسوم مستوحاة هي عبارة عن ثلث صوان خزفيّةّ ، من بعض تصاميم الدار الفاخرة .والثانية Love Who You ،Wantوهي مجموعة من الصحون وعلب الحبوب التي تحمل
رسوم حيوانات ،با فيها Monseigneur Bullوهو ثور مزخر“ بالزهار والتخريم و Jungle Kingوهو أسد مت ّوج اللمع والتخريم. بالريش ّ باعتمد الشاكات ف مجال لوزام النزل عل إنجازات العلمة ف مجال الزياء ،من الواضح أ ّن Walckhoffما زال ي ّجد ابتكارات سلفه ِ ومرشده السبق .لك ّنه يجد صعوبة ف تحديد القطعة الكث تثيلً لتصاميم .Lacroixيقول محتارا ً“ :إنّه لسؤال صعب ،إذ ابتكر دار Lacroixروائع كثية طوال هذه السنوات”. “القطعة الكث تثيل للدار ف مجال الزياء هي تصميم 39وهو ثوب زفا“ أحمر مط ّرز مصنوع من وشاح مصارع ثيان وقد ارتدته Madonnaف خلل جولتها ،Reinventionإنّه من مجموعة الزياء الفاخرة لخريف/شتاء .2002/2003وف مجموعات الغراض البتكرة ،إنّه نقش Butterfly Parade الذي استُخدم ف أبسطة وأقمشة وورق جدران ولوازم مائدة؛ ابتُكر سنة 2012ون ُِسخ حول العال وما زال يحقّق أفضل البيعات اليوم”. يشكّل نجاح مشاريع Lacroixالجديدة خي مثال عل كل توسع نطاق رؤيتها البتكاريّة لتشمل ّ تألّق العلمة الدائم ،ومع ّ منحى من نواحي الحياة ،نتطلّع جميعاً قدماً للستمتاع بنفحة من أسلوب حياة Lacroixالفاخر. When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free: 84
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تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر الال لدى تس ّوقك ف أكث من 300,000متجر ف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العال. فل َم ل تنض ّم إل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون كل سنة؟ ما دفع الضيبة من خلل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue عليك إل أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق الخاص أينم تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عل طلب استداد الضيبة ّ بغلوبل بلو Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ باليصالت. .2أطلب ف طريق العودة إل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجمر” عند نقطة الغادرة لتتم الصادقة عل إيصالتك قبل قبض الستداد من أحد الخاصة بنا. مكاتب الستداد ّ للتّصال:
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مشتياتك .يشمل مبلغ الستداد النهائ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الضيبة عل القيمة الضافة ناقص رسم إداري .ف بعض الطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عل كل طلب استداد ضيبة ف حال رغبت بالحصول عل استداد فوري نقدي.
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كل من مح ّرري Vogueالوليات التّحدة ف الصفوف الماميّة ّ الميكيّة وباريس والملكة التّحدة Anna Wintour و Emmanuelle Altو Alexandra Shulmanف حي تدافع الئات للدخول. مخيف بعض يقول “ :Gvasaliaالهتم” الذي حظينا به ٌ الشء .لك ّنن® ل أعتقد أنّه مرتبط ب أو بـ ،Vetementsبل بوضع الوضة اليو” .أطلقنا العلمة منذ سنتي ونصف السنة من ل شء .وبره ّنا أنّها ممكنة وليست مج ّرد حلم ،وأنّه من المكن خلق شء من الصفر ”.وليس Gvasaliaإل أحد أفراد فريقٍ متمسك لعلم ٍة تبلورت أفكارها الول حول “طاولة الطبخ” مصاحبة بكميّات وفية من النبيذ البيض والسجائر .يقول الص ّمم: “إن أفرطت ف رسم الستاتيجيّات ،فقدت الجوهر .فنحن نصنع أقل”. اللبس ل أكث ول ّ تتميّز ملبس Vetementsعن غيها لا تتمتّع به من أسلوب موضة شارع وتصاميم مبعثة؛ إن من خلل الكتاف الحدّبة أو النسدلة لستة جلديّة ،أو ساويل الجينز الرائجة الن الصنوعة من قطعٍ متن ّوعة من الدّنيم ،أو الساويل الرياضيّة السبل العفويّة الت® الفضفاضة .يقول “ :Gvasaliaأعشق ُ بإمكان التصميم أن يح ّول فيها لباساً معيّناً”. ولد Gvasaliaف جورجيا وعمل لدى Maison Martin Margielaو Marc JacobsوLouis Vuitton ومهارته ف الخياطة توازي تلك ف عروض الزياء .ف بداية عمله لدى ،Balenciagaمنح الدار العريق “طابعاً فاخرا ً” من خلل ابتكار بدلت أنثويّة مص ّممة بحسب الطلب ،حيث الوراك مضخّمة والكتاف عريضة للغاية إل جانب ساويل واسعة مريحة متوسطة الكعب مكس ّوة بنثة من وفاخرة وأحذية ناعمة رائعة ّ الحجار البلّوريّة. لكن ل تنحص هذه الرغبة بنبذ الساليب الشائعة وإعادة تحديد مفهو” التكلّف بـ Gvasaliaوحده .فالص ّمم الفرنس الوهوب Simon Porte Jaquemusالبالغ 26سنة من العمر ،يقدّ” صورة أخرى عن باريس .يستوح® تصاميم علمته الت® تحمل إسمه من الجميلت الجريئات اللوات تجدهن ف الضواح® مرتدين ملبس ذكيّة ومعاص ٍة ف آنٍ واحد .لخريف/ شتاء ،2016يقدّ” Jacquemusساويل واسعة للغاية ،مبتكرة لكن يكن لبسها وبدلت مقلّمة مز ّودة بربطات وقطع علويّة قصية مز ّودة بأذيال .يقول “ :Jacquemusإنّن® مهووس ببيع حق” .تجدر ملبس ،إنّها حقيقة اقتصاديّة وأرغب بالبيع عن ّ الشارة إل انتشار علمته ف متاجر حول العال الن ،وبالتال تحقيقه هدفه. أسسها André Courrègesعلمة باريسيّة ّ Courrègesف الستّينات ويعيد إحياءها اليو” Sébastien Meyerو .Arnaud Vaillantيركّز الثنائ عل القطع التعدّدة الستخدا” الت® تعتمد عل إرث العلمة :الستات الجلديّة والعاطف التج ّعدة اللّمعة واللبس الحبوكة الضيّقة. إنّها العلمة الثاليّة للقطع الجلديّة الت® يكن حشها ف صناديق صغية رفيعة. صحيح أنّهم مص ّممون يافعون ،لك ّنهم متم ّرسون .فهم ٌ واسعو الطّلع عل تاريخ وتقنيّات الخياطة والقمشة والزخرفة لك ّنهم يقرنون هذه الهارات بأفكا ٍر عصيّة .ف النهار ،تعمل Christelle Kocherمن Kochéلدى Maison
Lemariéوهو مشغل تتلكه حاليّاً Chanelويشتهر بزركشاته وبخاصة الريش والزهار .وف اللّيل ،تُبدع ف مجموعتها الميّزة ّ الخاصة حيث يزيّن الريش والخرز الفساتي الشبكيّة وتتألّق ّ أثواب أخرى بقطع القمشة اللصقة فوق بعضها البعض .عرضت مجموعتها هذا الوسم ف سوقٍ مسقوف من القرن الثامن عش، يحوي مصفّف® شعر أفارقة من الكاريب® .تقول عن أسلوبها بدمج ثقافات متعدّدة“ :أرغب بشاطرة مدينت® باريس مع آخرين”. منصات عرض تتخطّى هذه الطاقة الجديدة ف باريس حدود ّ ٍ التخصص محلت متف ّرقة .ل ب ّد من زيارة التجر الزياء من خلل ّ Tom Greyhoundالذي ّأسسه رائد أعمل كوري ،وكذلك القهى/التجر The Broken Armف منطقة Marais الذي يشكّل مغناطيساً لحبّ® السلوب الميّز والدّنيم الغريب فكل من الحلّي يعط® فكرة عن طريقة تس ّوق والتصميمّ . الشباب الفرنسيّي الحذقي اليو” .إنّها لحظة مه ّمة لعال الزياء ف منصات العرض الدينة .وما يو ّحد ّ كل هؤلء ّ بغض النظر إن عل ّ أو ف التاجر أو ف الشارع ،هو شغفهم بباريس. Fortune Favours The Brave :56
إنطلقة جريئة
Sacha Walckhoffالدير البداع® لعلمة Christian يوسع حدود العلمة من خلل لواز” منزليّة مذهلة. ّ ،Lacroix يُخب Ruairidh Pritchardعن مستقبل العلمة الذائعة الصيت
تتحض علمة Christian Lacroixللحتفال بعيدها الثلثي ّ السنة القبلة ،لكن ل تستحوذ أزياؤها عل انتباه الجميع هذه ال ّرة ،بل مجموعتها الرائعة من القطع البتكرة .من وسادات إل لواز” الائدة فأقمشة وقرطاسيّة ،ت ِ ُدخل علمة Christian Lacroixأسلوبها الفاخر الميّز إل منازل أنيقة حول العال. ابتُ ِكرت التصاميم الجديدة الفعمة بالحياة تحت إشاف الدير البداع® .Sacha Walckhoffعمل الص ّمم الفرنس ف دور أزياء باريسيّة متعدّدة مع مبدعي عل سبيل Jean Rémy Daumasو Dorothée BisوMichel Klein قبل أن يصبح مدير استوديو لدى Christian Lacroixسنة .1996بعد مغادرة Christian Lacroixبح ّد ذاته العلمة تول Walckhoffإدارة دار الزياء سنة .2010 الت® أٍ ّسسهاّ ، ومذّاك ،شمل أسلوب Lacroixكافّة أنواع القطع البتكرة والكسسوارات ،مط ّعمً الغراض اليوميّة بستويات جديدة من الفخامة. يقول “ :Walckhoffمنذ أن استلمت الدارة البداعيّة لدى علمة Christian Lacroix Maisonسنة ،2010وأنا أعمل عل جينات العلمة لحافظ عل روحيّتها لكن بحلّة جديدة تاماً. نعمل كثيا ً عل خلق صو ٍر جديدة وموضة جديدة بنا ًء عل ٍ بحث واسع النطاق نجريه ف شتّى الت ّجاهات”. ل يج ِر العمل عل مجموعات ملبس Lacroixالنسائيّة الؤسس العلمة ،وبالتال أشف الفاخرة والجاهزة منذ غادر ّ Walckhoffعل تصميم مجموعات اللبس الجاهزة الرجاليّة بالضافة إل خطوط أكسسوارات .Christian Lacroix إل أ ّن ما دفع العلمة ح ّقاً إل الما” ،هو التكيز عل globalblue.com
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ترجمة باللغة العربيّة Paved With Gold :44
ساحة مع ّبدة بالذهب
تض ّم ساحة Vendômeالكثي من العلمات التجاريّة العاليّة الراقية ف مجال الساعات والجوهرات .تسلّط Hannah Lewisالضوء عل أبرز القطع الطلوبة هذا الوسم كنصب أُنشئت ساحة Vendômeبادئ ذي بدء سنة 1702 ٍ لنتصارات جيش لويس الرابع عش ،أحد أشهر اللوك ف التاريخ الفرنس ،إن ل يكن العالي .تتميّز الساحة بهندسة باروكيّة بارزة، معظمها من تصميم الهندس ،Jules Hardouin-Mansart ويعكس السلوب عظمة المباطوريّة واللكيّة الفرنسيّة ف القرن الثامن عش. قد تكون الثقافة السياسيّة ف فرنسا تخلّت عن بذخ ملوكها وزه ّوهم ،لكن تبقى خصوصيّة هذه الساحة وشارع rue de la Paixعل حالها .فهذه الساحة عنوان لعلمات تجاريّة رائدة فخمة من حول العال ،خصوصاً تلك ف مجال الجوهرات والساعات الفاخرة .من أعرق العلمات الفرنسيّة إل ألع السمء العاليّة ،ليس ف باريس مكان أفضل من هذا لليُس الطلق. سنة ،1899افتتحت Cartierمتجرها الرئيس الباريس ال ّول ف rue de la Paixوهو شارع يت ّد من Opéra الحل رمز Garnierالشهية إل ساحة .Vendômeبات هذا ّ االعلمة إذ ساهمت فخامته الراقية ف ضمن مكانة Cartier كإحدى أبرز السمء ف عال الجوهرات الفاخرة .كان أحد أوائل تضمحل روحيّة Cartier ّ الحلت التي تبيع ساعات الي ّد ول الرائدة مع الوقت قَيد شعرة .تجدر الشارة إل أبرز ابتكاراتها عل سبيل خ ّط مجوهرات Panthèreأو مجموعة الساعات .Tank العلمة النظية لـ Cartierالفرنسيّة هي Buccellati اليطاليّة التي اختارت موقعاً قريباً لها ف باريس .يقول رئيسها ومديرها البداعي “ :Andrea Buccellatiتتميّز مجوهرات Buccellatiعن غيها لا تض ّم من تفاصيل تعود إل تقنيّات صياغة الجوهرات ف عهد النهضة اليطاليّة ”.تستخدم العلمة أفخر الحجار الكرية والعادن التاحة لتقدّ” مجوهرات وساعات وحتّى أكسسوارات منزليّة فريدة من نوعها .ف التصاميم الخية لجموعة ،Operaأُضيفت إل خ ّط العلمة الستوحى من النهضة أحجار كبية مل ّونة وشملت اللزورد وعرق اللّؤلؤ والعقيق والوبال الزهري واليشب. عل مرمى حج ٍر من Buccellatiتجد ،Tiffany & Co علمة الجوهرات الميكيّة التي ذاع صيت ماساتها و ُعلبها الزرقاء. قد يكون أشهر خاتم عل الطلق الخاتم السطوري Tiffany ® Settingمرادفاً للفخامة ف خواتم الخطوبة ،وبالتال ل ب ّد أن كل من ينوي طلب ي ّد من ّ دق يكون هذا التجر ال ّول عل لئحة ّ لها القلب. تشتهر علمة Bulgariحول العال بقطعها الحالة الساحرة ويعرض محلّها الذي يعود إل عشين سنة ف ساحة ،Vendôme مجموعة Bulgariكاملةً ،كم تجد فيه الكسسوارات إل جانب الجوهرات والساعات الفاخرة .تجمع ساعات Bulgariالتميّز السويسي ف صناعة الساعات بالذوق اليطال الفريد الذي
تشتهر به العلمة؛ وبفضل العادن الثمينة والحجار الكرية الت® الخاصة .وتجدر تستخدمها ،تستحيل الخيار الثال للمناسبات ّ الشارة إل خ ّط الجوهرات Serpentالستوحى من الثعبان. أ ّما ،Bucheronفلمع إسمها ف فضاء الجوهرات الباريسيّة الختصة الفاخرة منذ سنة .1858كانت من أول العلمات ّ بالجوهرات الت® تفتح أبوابها ف ساحة Vendômeسنة 1893 مؤسسها Frédéric Boucheronوما زال التجر أشهر عل يد ّ من نار عل علم كم لطالا كان .برصيد Boucheronما يزيد عن 150سنة من الخبة ،ما يجعل مجوهراتها الفاخرة من الرقى ف العال وتنقل ساعاتها الفريدة هذه ِ السمة إل عال الساعات. من العلمات الخرى العريقة ف هذه الساحةVan ، Cleef & Arpelsالت® افتتحت ف وحدة 22قبالة Ritzسنة .1906وت ّم مؤ ّخرا ً توسيع التجر ليشمل الوحدتي 20و .24إنه مساحة عصيّة مشقة بألوانٍ هادئة؛ تعرض أسلوب Van Cleef & Arpelsالميّز ف عال الجوهرات الفاخرة ،وهو أسلوب ويعب عن أحل”ٍ وأوها”. مستوحى من العال الطبيع® ّ وتجد عل مسافة قريبة التجر الرئيس لعلمة الجوهرات العاليّة الراقية .Piagetإنّه التجر الجمل حتّى الن لهذه العلمة الفرنسيّة إذ يسلّط الضوء عل الباعة البشيّة ،من خلل الهارة الحل بح ّد ذاته ،والوهبة العاليّة الت® ل مثيل لها ف تصميم ّ كل قلدة وسوار وخاتم ِ وقرط رائع .بالضافة إل الكامنة وراء ّ مجوهرات Piagetالميّزة الفاخرة ،ث ّة ساعاتها الخلبة. كل هاوي ساعات إن غادر باريس من دون زيارة يُخطئ ّ محل صانع الساعات السويسي Patek Philippeف ساحة ّ .Vendômeهنا تجد ساعات نسائيّة ورجاليّة وطاقم عملٍ واسع الطّلع يساعدك ف الختيار .اختارت العلمة هذه الساحة لنّها إحدى أفضل الماكن ف العال لعرض الجوهرات والساعات الفاخرة .وبوجود هذه الجموعة الكبية من العلمات الرفيعة الستوى ،ل م ّبر لعد” الزيارة. Game Changers :50
مغيو قواعد اللّعبة ّ
موجة من العلمات التجاريّة الصاعدة تقلب موازين عال الزياء ف باريس .تلتق® Harriet Quickببعض أبرز السمء تشهد باريس تغييات زلزاليّة كُبى .فحيث كانت تسود ف السابق موضة الناقة النثويّة التمثّلة بدور الزياء الكبى Chanel يشق جيل جديد طريقه الن و Lanvinوّ ،Christian Dior ويكتب فصلً جديدا ً ف تاريخ السلوب الباريس .عل رأس علمات تجاريّة جديدة عل سبيل Vetementsو Jacquemusو Kochéوأخرى قدية ُمحدّثة مثل Balenciaga و Courrègesو ،Paco Rabanneقائة من الص ّممي التن ّوعي .يناهضون مجتمعون مفاهيم “الثوب السود القصي” التقليديّة ويبتكرون موضة ذات وجهة نظ ٍر واضحة. السم الكث إثارة ف هذه الحركة هو ،Demna Gvasalia الؤسس الشيك لعلمة Vetementsوالدير البداع® الجديد ّ لـ .Balenciagaساهم ف إطلق علمة كانت مج ّرد ٍ عرض غامض متأخّر؛ لكن شكّلت مجموعتها الخية للخريف/الشتاء، والت® ُعرضت ف كنيسة ،الحدث الكث إغرا ًء هذا الوسم .جلس
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SMALL WONDER This mini bag in cream and pastel pink exotic skins is just the right size for everyday use. It’s one of the highlights of the autumn/winter collection from accessories brand Colombo Via della Spiga, whose eclectic range of inspirations includes Memphis, the Milanese post-modern art movement and the fairy tales of the brothers Grimm. The result is a range of pieces notable Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 84
for their pure, minimalist shapes, subtle details and clever use of colour. As always, the quality of the materials and the craftsmanship is second to none, as you would expect from a brand that has been known for its exceptional creations since 1937. fm Colombo Via della Spiga mini bag, €9,000, Colombo Via della Spiga, 15 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4508 4001, colomboviadellaspiga.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 79