SHOP Paris Lux AW17

PARIS | 巴黎 | ПАРИЖ |

PARIS Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2017/18

EXPLORE PARIS: our insiders’ shopping guide to the best of the City of Light

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind. For more than 135 years, the name

our customers express when they

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Paris, 16, rue Royale, T +33.1.42 60 21 77 HAMBURG LONDON PARIS MADRID VIENNA NEW YORK BEIJING WWW.WEMPE.COM

EDITOR’S LETTER Athens & Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Cologne Copenhagen 捷克

Düsseldorf Frankfurt French Riviera

‫أملانيا‬ 德国

Германия Gothenburg Hamburg Helsinki Area

Welcome to Paris

Holland Istanbul Italy Japan Lebanon London Madrid Milan Munich Oslo Paris 巴黎

Portugal Prague Rome SE Finland Singapore Stockholm Stuttgart Switzerland Vienna

Чехия

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ILLUSTRATION: ISAAC BONAN

Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this endlessly appealing centre of luxury and gastronomy. Paris has much to offer, as our guide on page 63 reveals. Readers who appreciate world-class fashion will enjoy our feature on this season’s futuristic space-age looks as seen at Paris Fashion Week (page 38), and in this issue we also explore the best luxury homeware brands in Paris (page 46) and profile one of France’s most intriguing heritage brands (page 52). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save an average of 12% when shopping in France. We publish guides to over 40 destinations across Europe and Asia. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll find in Paris. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com. Be sure to sign up for your free SHOP TAX FREE Card – the simplest way to shop tax free without filling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

50, avenue Montaigne, Paris 8ème 253, rue Saint–Honoré, Paris 1er chloe.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Hannah Lewis Hannah Lewis, SHOP’s features editor, holds degrees from both the University of Oxford and the London College of Fashion. In this issue, she writes about Fauré Le Page, an under-the-radar luxury Parisian brand. globalblue.com

Ruairidh Pritchard Ruairidh Pritchard, Global Blue’s commercial editor, studied journalism in Glasgow, where he was editor of his university’s award-winning magazine. Ruairidh is a keen traveller and writes for a variety of publications.

Sally McIlhone As SHOP’s deputy editor, Sally McIlhone is in touch with leading brands, creatives and writers around the world so she can stay on top of the latest styles and designs. Sally has contributed to ShortList, Stylist and Total Film online.

ILLUSTRATION: ANDREW NYE; PHOTOS: (LEFT) KATIE WILSON ELL; (MIDDLE) MICHAEL CHAPMAN

Andrew Nye Andrew Nye created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Paris Luxury. His eye-catching artwork has previously been commissioned by Barclays and Eurostar, among others. His graphic, conceptual approach makes him a perfect illustrator for this cover, which shows two Parisian landmarks, the Arc de Triomphe and the Pyramide du Louvre, as beautiful pieces of jewellery. Discover SHOP Paris Luxury and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.

SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Deputy editor Sally McIlhone Cover illustrator Andrew Nye Contributor Madeleine Murray-Lyons Production editor Caterina Mazzolai Acting production editor Katie Muxworthy Production assistant Julia Spaeth Features editor Hannah Lewis Fashion editor Ximena Daneri Acting fashion editor Lucinda Turner Assistant fashion editor Fani Mari Fashion and lifestyle writer Rebecca Rhys-Evans News editor Ginger Rose Clark Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Claire Gervat, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Assistant picture editors Grace Bird, Katie Byrne Senior picture assistant Mónica R Goya Picture assistant Selina Tan Senior artworkers Aaron Carline, Hayley Moseley Artworker Samantha Junak Artworking assistants Shirley Lau, Onur Unaltay Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh Acting online managing editor Sufiyeh Hadian-Clarke Assistant online editor Marina Nelson Online writer Emily Scrivener Human resources and office assistant Anjali Kapoor

Chinese editor Yuan Fang Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou Chinese online editor Qingya He Assistant Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Anastasia Kyle-Langley Russian editorial assistant Karina Starobina Russian translators Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

GLOBA L BLU E F R A NCE Country manager Yan Mortreux Marketing sales manager Marie Laporte Marketing coordinators Luisa Montero, Patrice Simeon Global Blue France, Immeuble Kléber, 103-105 avenue Anatole France, 92300 Levallois-Perret, France +33 (0)1 4161 5151

Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Ruairidh Pritchard AVP business development manager Patrice Janet Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designer Yuese Shi Junior designer Kiranjeet Kaur Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistant Inga Abramian Marketing intern Joanna Dodge Digital production assistant Linda Hau Production assistant Chris Bigg

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy Digital campaign manager Iwona Wlodarczyk Digital data analyst Dian Liu Digital marketing assistant Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Developer Mohammed Hakiki Project manager Elisabeth Schloemmer

Chief executive officer Jacques Stern SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2017 Global Blue

CONTENTS PAGE

PAGE

PRODUCTS 16

Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Paris this season Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories Street Style Our pick of Paris’s best dressed during Paris Fashion Week

28 30

Shop Window One store not to be missed in Paris News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products

FEATURES 38

Flash Forward From sci-fi looks to space-age style, Paris Fashion Week was all about the future, says Sally McIlhone

Home Chic Home In Paris, an appreciation of luxury extends to all aspects of life – and that includes homeware. Ruairidh Pritchard reveals the names to know Weapons Of Seduction They say all’s fair in love and war, but rarely are the two so closely linked as at historic Parisian brand Fauré le Page, as Hannah Lewis discovers

Above (from left): futuristic fashion from Chanel’s autumn/winter 2017/18 collection; luxury homeware at Lalique’s store on rue Royale

PHOTOS: (LEFT) © GORUNWAY.COM; (RIGHT) LUC BOEGLY

NEWS

louisvuitton.com

Tambour Horizon Your journey, connected.

CONTENTS PAGE

EXPERIENCE 58

Table Talk The French capital is famed for its cuisine, says Madeleine Murray-Lyons

GUIDE 63

Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Paris, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights

ESSENTIALS 76

How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping

TRANSLATIONS 77 中文翻译 80 Рсский Перевод 91

SOUVENIR 92

The essential item to bring home

E NGL IS H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

VISIT US ONLINE...

Visit globalblue.com, our recently relaunched website, for the latest luxury shopping and travel stories, updated daily Погрузитесь в мир роскошного шоппинга и увлекательных путешествий, посетив наш обновлённый сайт – globalblue.ru

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Above: a typical dessert at Le Quinzième, one of Paris’s finest restaurants

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

访问我们近日新版上线的网站 globalblue.cn, 了解最新奢华购物旅游信息，每日更新

PRÊT-À-PORTER & ACCESSOIRES | LONGCHAMP.COM

KEEPING TIME Cartier has a long and distinguished history of plundering its archives to revive classic pieces for a modern audience. This season the renowned French jeweller has revisited its Panthère de

Cartier watch. The distinctive square timepiece is as desirable as ever, whether in 18-carat yellow gold with a blue sapphire set into the crown, as pictured here, or in rose gold with or without diamonds, or steel, in small and medium sizes. The feminine, beautifully proportioned and

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enduring design makes it suitable for any occasion, day or night. fm Cartier Panthère de Cartier watch, €22,600, Cartier, 41 rue de Rennes, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4549 6580, cartier.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 75

PHOTO: © CARTIER

CH ECK OUT

Porsche Design Timepieces

MONOBLOC ACTUATOR GMT-CHRONOTIMER | Black & Rubber Designed by Studio F. A. Porsche. Swiss Made.

T H E N E W M O N O B LO C AC T UAT O R INSPIRED BY OUR PASSION FOR MOTORSPORT

www.porsche-design.com/timepieces Porsche Design Paris | Rue du Faubourg Saint-HonorÃ© 23

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LOWS AND HIGHS Ankle height or knee length: whatever your preference make sure your boots make a statement with bold prints, colourful embroidery and plenty of sparkle

1. Balmain boots, €1,260, Balmain, 44 rue François 1er, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4720 5758, balmain.com

3. Christian Louboutin boots, €1,395, Christian Louboutin, 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4236 5366, christianlouboutin.com

2. Tommy Hilfiger boots, €189.90, Tommy Hilfiger, 43 boulevard des Capucines, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 7002, tommy.com

4. Roger Vivier boots, €1,200, Roger Vivier, 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5343 0085, rogervivier.com

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5. Etro boots, €885, Etro, 177 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4548 1817, etro.com

PHOTOS: (2) KARENBENGALL.COM; (5) 46AND2STUDIO

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6. Aquazzura boots, €1,995, Biondini, 78 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4359 1159, aquazzura.com

8. Stuart Weitzman boots, €825, Stuart Weitzman, 342 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 4792, stuartweitzman.com

7. Prada boots, €2,900, Prada, 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5818 6330, prada.com

9. Mulberry boots, €1,085, Mulberry, 275 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 0064, mulberry.com

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10. Giuseppe Zanotti boots, €1,195, Giuseppe Zanotti, 12 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4720 0785, giuseppezanottidesign.com

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ALL IN THE DETAILS This season, pair a formal shirt with the smartest accessories for a timeless look

1. Van Laack shirt, €149, Van Laack, 17 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4494 8325, vanlaack.com

3. Hugo boots, €360, Boss, 115 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5357 3540, hugoboss.com

5. Tod’s bag, €2,000, Tod’s, 17-21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5343 1616, tods.com

2. Lanvin belt, €390, Lanvin, 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4471 3173, lanvin.com

4. Blancpain watch, €13,180, Blancpain, 20 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4292 0888, blancpain.com

6. Paul Smith trousers, €445, Paul Smith, 22 boulevard Raspail, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 5363 0874, paulsmith.com

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#BoggiGentlemanStyle

A GENTLEMAN DOES NOT TALK. JUST ACT. - Rule 67 -

boggi.com

PARIS | 38 Boulevard des Italiens | Tel. +33 1 402.299.82 | 112 Boulevard Saint Germain | Tel. +33 1 463.306.68

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GIVE THEM THE SLIP For a look that’s all-out glamour, dress up a simple silk gown with sparkling accessories and a red lip

1. Olivia von Halle dress, €335, The Conran Shop, 117 rue du Bac, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4284 1001, oliviavonhalle.com

3. Clarins lipstick, €25, Clarins, 10 rue de Babylone, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4544 0619, clarins.fr

5. Alberta Ferretti earrings, €162, Alberta Ferretti, 43 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4265 5547, albertaferretti.com

2. Roberto Cavalli clutch, €3,000, Roberto Cavalli, 53 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5688 3770, robertocavalli.com

4. Swarovski ring, €129, Swarovski, 146 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4561 1380, swarovski.com

6. Miu Miu shoes, €890, Miu Miu, 92 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5862 5320, miumiu.com

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PHOTO: (2) LUCA MANIERI 2017

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MILITARY PRECISION

Toughen up a classic coat with metallic details and accessories that mean business 1

1. Ports 1961 coat, €1,850, Ports 1961, 251bis rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4703 3541, ports1961.com

3. Louis Vuitton belt, €495, Louis Vuitton, 101 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5357 5200, louisvuitton.com

5. Alexander McQueen boots, €990, Alexander McQueen, 372 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 7080 7800, alexandermcqueen.com

2. Gant jumper, €149.99, Gant, 41 boulevard des Capucines, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4286 0965, gant.com

4. Chantecaille lipgloss, €38, Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4284 1855, chantecaille.com

6. Michael Kors Collection clutch, €995, Michael Kors, 279 rue Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 7036 4440, michaelkors.com

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PHOTOS: (1) GABRIELEGIUSSANI.COM; (3) JUSTINE MARCHAND

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Pops of yellow and pretty pastels came out to play at this seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Paris Fashion Week, with dashes of blue denim and logo bags from Balenciaga or Louis Vuitton being added by the savviest street-style stars Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 76

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

STREET ST YLE

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SHOP WINDOW

In May, Montblanc introduced a new store concept at its boutique on the French capital’s famous avenue des Champs-Elysées. French designer Noé DuchaufourLawrance is the mastermind behind the elegant look of the interior. The brand’s three founding pillars – calligraphy,

craftsmanship and exceptional quality – are evoked by the use of materials such as wood, lacquered panels and fine metals. In the revamped boutique, visitors can expect to be immersed in a multisensory experience that encompasses everything from testing the brand’s beautifully

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handcrafted nibs at the ink bar to browsing different skins at the leather atelier. grc Montblanc, 152 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4420 0770, montblanc.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 68

PHOTO: ALEXANDER SPORRE

THE WRITE WAY

UN CERTO MONDO CAMMINA ROSSETTI. 360Â°

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FORM AND FIGURE From September, French lingerie brand Vanity Fair is opening standalone stores across France, starting with a flagship store in Paris. Situated on one of the city’s main luxury shopping streets, rue de la Paix, this elegant new space is in tune with the prestige of its surroundings. Here you can browse the brand’s beautiful lingerie and swimwear, and indulge in a high-end shopping experience. Founded in 1919, Vanity Fair can be counted on to create underwear of excellent standards, and the brand prides itself on being a pioneer in the field. grc Vanity Fair, 20 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, vfinternational-intimates.net FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73

Aurélie Bidermann has been appointed artistic director at Poiray and to inaugurate her new role the jewellery designer has created the elegant L’Attrape-Coeur collection. The brand’s favourite heart-shaped motif is the starting point for the series of rings, earrings and pendants. Opal is paired with 18-carat rose gold, while lapis lazuli makes a bright match for 18-carat yellow gold. Fun and chic in equal measures, Bidermann’s first collection for Poiray is a celebration of the brand’s heritage; a piece such as this 18-carat yellow gold and white diamond necklace (€4,200) makes an ideal gift for someone close to your heart. grc Poiray, 17 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4041 9491, poiray.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73

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PHOTOS: (TOP) ESTUDIO OUTUMURO; (BOTTOM) CYRILLE ROBIN

FEEL THE LOVE

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TASTE OF TRAVEL France meets Spain at Bellota-Bellota: its latest openings, at Printemps and at Charles de Gaulle Airport, are a chance to experience this fusion of Spanish products and French gastronomical expertise. Located in a prime position in Terminal 2F, the second of these openings marks the brand’s airport debut. The restaurant features a counter which can seat up to 19 people and you can also pick up products to take home at the shop, including the brand’s famous Iberian ham and chorizo, anchovies and manchego cheese. grc Bellota Bellota, Terminal 2F, Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, bellota-bellota.com

LISTEN HERE Invented and made in France, the new Gold Phantom (from €2,590) is Devialet’s most powerful speaker. The brand’s engineers have taken this latest version of its popular Phantom to a new level. With an impressive 4,500 watts of power, and no saturation or background noise, this wireless speaker delivers ultra-dense sound. Whether you opt for a compact single speaker or a multi-room system, the Gold Phantom connects via Bluetooth or Wi-Fi to allow you to experience sound of the globalblue.com

highest quality. As a bonus, Devialet’s state-of-the-art product has 22-carat rose gold-plated sides for an extra touch of luxury. grc

Devialet, 126 rue Réaumur, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4488 2726, devialet.com

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LOOK SHARP Founded in 1973, De Fursac specialises in high-end tailoring for men, creating sophisticated silhouettes cut from high-quality fabrics. This season pinstripes, velvet blazers, soft roll-neck sweaters worn under jackets and elegant coats are all on the cards. Attention to detail is of utmost importance and looks are finished off with silk pocket squares, tie pins, sleek bow ties and chic gloves. Whatever the occasion, De Fursac has a polished outfit that will tick all the right boxes. grc De Fursac, 146 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4325 4066, defursac.fr FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 74

This season, Bally looks to 1970s New York and the atmosphere of gentleman’s clubs during that era. The ready-to-wear collection features plenty of checks, dapper tailoring and statement shirts for both men and women, and the use of metallics, velvet and suede adds a touch of opulence. The theme translates through to the women’s bags and shoes, with the addition of animal prints, Swarovski crystal hearts and poker motifs as seen on this B-Turn bag (€1,995). Other styles to look out for include the Janelle

shoe with its statement buckle, which has been updated with two new heel heights, and is available in several eyecatching metallic tones. grc

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Bally, 35 boulevard des Capucines, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4455 3820, bally.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 72

PHOTO: (BOTTOM) BALLY

ON THE CARDS

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A TRUE GEM Favoured by royalty, aristocrats, models and the international elite, fine jeweller David Morris is well versed in catering to a luxury-loving clientele. The British brand is known for its showstopping creations and its use of precious stones and exclusive cuts. Visit the recently opened Paris boutique – its first flagship in continental Europe – on glamorous rue SaintHonoré to discover one–off pieces, contemporary yet timeless designs, and exquisite gemstones that can be treasured for generations. km David Morris, 364 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4041 1841, davidmorris.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 70

PERFECT SCENTS This autumn, Penhaligon’s is introducing four new fragrances to its Portraits collection. Four characters from the late 19th century serve as inspiration for each of the perfumes. The Ruthless Countess Dorothea is a fresh, oriental and spicy fragrance thanks to bergamot, red ginger oil and sherry-cashmeran. The smooth and spicy Monsieur Beauregard has aromas of orris, sandalwood and cinnamon. With pepper rose, vetiver and oud, the Uncompromising Sohan is deep and exotic. Last but not least, the Bewitching Yasmine

combines jasmine, incense and oud for a rich and mysterious amber fragrance. Like the characters they are based on, each of these eaux de parfum has a strong personality. grc

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Penhaligon’s, 209 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4926 9166, penhaligons.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 70

Delvaux Palais Royal Jardins du Palais Royal, 151-154 Galerie de Valois, 75001 Paris, France www.delvaux.com

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FRESH START

IN BRIEF Luxury accessories label Jimmy Choo has reopened its boutique on the rue SaintHonoré following a complete renovation. The spacious store now features two salons. As ever, shoes take centre stage, but be sure to also explore the range of leather goods, sunglasses, fragrances and more

There’s a feeling of new beginnings at traditional British menswear specialist Dunhill. Under the design direction of recently appointed creative director Mark Weston, the brand’s autumn/winter collection has a distinctly relaxed vibe. Casually worn overcoats and down-filled outwear take the place of rigid tailoring, while suede tennis shoes and handmade Chelsea boots demonstrate a new focus on a contemporary wardrobe. Keeping true to the brand’s roots, the collection includes tailored pieces, but in lighter wools and cashmeres, while blazers are unstructured in linen, wool and silk. This breaking away from formality opens a casual-chic chapter in Dunhill’s 124-year story. rp Dunhill, 15 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4261 5839, dunhill.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 73

BACK TO BLACK This season Paris-based label Ami was given free rein to reinvent some of Eastpak’s bags. For the collaboration, Alexandre Mattiussi has experimented with colour, shape and proportions using the same techniques as in the Ami autumn/winter 2017/18 collection. Black nylon is used across all three styles – the oversized Waistbag, the Padded and the Topload – while the last is also given a luxury twist in a full leather version. The Ami Topload leather backpack (€590) features a large main compartment, versatile fastenings and functional details. Established in 2011, Ami is known for its minimalist, contemporary menswear. grc Ami, 22 rue de Grenelle, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)9 8230 9677, amiparis.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 74

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PHOTO: Â© GORUNWAY.COM

From sci-fi looks to space-age style, Paris Fashion Week was all about the future, says Sally McIlhone

77 91

Left: Chanel autumn/winter 2017/18

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or several seasons, the gaze of the fashion industry has been firmly turned toward the past. For spring/summer 2017 we saw the return of 1980s glamour at Saint Laurent, 40s elegance at Bottega Veneta and 70s suiting at Gucci. But for autumn/winter 2017/18, the only direction worth thinking about is forwards. Designers looked to the future, musing on what is yet to come via everything from lashings of metallics and references to the world of space travel to vast explosions of dresses that challenged perceptions of Above (both): Comme des Garçons autumn/winter 2017/18

femininity. What resulted was an air of excitement and high drama. At the Comme des Garçons autumn/ winter 2017/18 catwalk show, designer Rei Kawakubo looked to ‘the future of the silhouette’ with a range of vast, voluminous dresses in materials that evoked everything from brown paper bags to multicoloured insulation and silver disco balls. Fabric enveloped the models and appeared to distance the garment from the body beneath it, which was merely a canvas for these unique

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

For this season, designers have looked to the future

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works of art. Two of the most showstopping looks were a leather and foam gown that combined ruffles and patchwork details and an all-white belted dress covered with octopusstyle suckers. Practical these are not, but what they lack in wearability they make up for in sheer genius. It’s no wonder that Kawakubo was honoured with an exhibition at the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art this year, entitled Art of the In-Between. Showcasing around 140 of the designer’s indefinable looks, it was the perfect celebration of four decades Above (all): Chanel autumn/winter 2017/18

spent challenging both the fashion industry and traditional concepts of beauty. With such a boundary-pushing career, it’s no wonder that Kawakubo continues to look to the future with her latest collection. Karl Lagerfeld is another designer who is drawn to a vision of the world that’s just around the corner. ‘Fashion is about the evolution of the world,’ said the Chanel creative director in a video about the autumn/winter 2017/18 collection for the brand’s YouTube channel, though perhaps in this case it’s

42 | F E AT U R E S

Above (from left): Chanel; Mugler, both autumn/winter 2017/18

These looks are about the evolution of the universe mini planets and rockets provide the perfect ethereal touch to these astronomical looks. Closing the show with a shuttle that appeared to lift off to a soundtrack of Rocket Man by Elton John, Lagerfeld – as he has done so many times before – set the tone for the new season. Astronauts have conquered the moon and spacecraft have landed on Mars, so surely it can’t be long before an army of silver-clad

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

more accurate to say that fashion is about the evolution of the universe. During the sci-fiinspired Chanel show at the Grand Palais, Lagerfeld presented his vision of space travel and his perfect wardrobe for the intergalactic voyager. Offering silver leather and shearling biker jackets paired with glittering knee-high boots, accessories in the form of holographic blanket-style wraps and embellished fingerless gloves, and T-shirts, dresses and separates adorned with an astronaut print, the collection is truly out of this world. Elsewhere, references are more subtle: a spray of embellishment on a midi-length sleeveless dress evokes the galaxies within our solar system as seen through a telescope; a high, wide collar on a minidress echoes the shape of a spacesuit. Handbags shaped like

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sirens fly spaceship Chanel into the heavens. Mugler’s Alien fragrance has legions of fans across the globe, so the label is no stranger to the extra-terrestrial. This season, designer David Koma’s sharply cut minidresses and exuberant use of high-shine fabrics in silver and lizard green would certainly look the part in a galaxy far, far away. Black leather trench coats with pointed shoulders and sheer tops studded with stars are perfect for space goths, while lightning bolts slice sections out of tops Above (both): Mugler autumn/winter 2017/18

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

Live your own galactic fantasy this autumn/winter

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and embellished jumpsuits for those who prefer a little colour in their evening attire. A yellow top with cut-out side panels and a star brooch is pure Star Trek chic: the perfect homage to the TV show, which returns to our screens this autumn. Paco Rabanne presented an altogether more fluid vision of futuristic fashion at Paris Fashion Week, with draped oneshoulder tops and asymmetric midi-skirts in silver and gold chainmail-style fabrics, worn with shiny silver brogues. Grey Above (both): Paco Rabanne autumn/winter 2017/18

strapless minidresses worn over trousers gave the feel of a next-generation space uniform, and shimmering trousers paired with thin, long-sleeved knits had a touch of the sportluxe about them. Armour-like dresses that wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have looked out of place in the next sci-fi summer blockbuster rounded out a truly inspired collection. To live your own galactic fantasy this autumn/winter season, look no further than the catwalk collections of some of fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most imaginative brands

Above: D Porthault store on rue du Boccador

PHOTO: DPORTHAULT.FR

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In Paris, an appreciation of luxury extends to all aspects of life â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and that includes homeware. Ruairidh Pritchard reveals the names to know

cclaimed as one of the fashion capitals of the world, Paris is home to many celebrated designer labels, including Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton. However, while fashion takes centre stage, it is not the only aspect of life to be given the luxury treatment. Paris also plays host to French and international homeware brands that offer some of the finest furniture, linens, silverware and 78

interior decor in the world, bringing the feeling of luxury into the home. D Porthault is one of the finest linen companies in France. It grew out of a lingerie boutique founded by Parisian Daniel Porthault at the turn of the 20th century, before he made the switch to household linens in 1920. At a time where traditional white sheets were the norm, Porthault introduced Paris to printed

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and coloured bedlinens – taking inspiration from impressionist artists – which became an instant success. Today the brand is still one of the most successful French linen companies, with stores worldwide, including on Paris’s rue du Boccador. This year sees the introduction of the new Haute Couture Linen collection, which stays true to the founder’s initial influences. Linens feature impressionistinspired floral scenes, art deco patterns, bold graphic motifs and intricate embroidery detail, all made to the impeccable standards for which the brand is known. Frette – founded in Grenoble in 1860 before relocating to Italy five years later – is another leading linen specialist. The brand’s

skilled artisans, based in northern Italy, produce all of its linens from the finest fibres. Discover its latest collection at the Frette boutique on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré: the Golden Deco range is inspired by the artistic spirit of the first half of the 20th century, the time of the Great Gatsby and the opulence of the art deco era. With textures and embellishments reminiscent of art deco architecture, geometric shapes and abstract graphics, as well as touches of floral motifs and embroidered pearl, the collection recalls the spirit and glamour of the 1920s, bringing the indulgent luxury of the era into the modern bedroom. Paris is home to brands and craftspeople who offer products that can transform even

Above (clockwise from top right): D Porthault Haute Couture Linen collection; Frette cushion and linen from the Golden Deco collection; the brand’s boutique

PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT) ELI.ALAIN@WANADOO.FR ; (TOP RIGHT) DPORTHAULT.FR

In Paris, even the humble spoon can become a luxury item

THE EXCEPTION NOW HAS AN ADDRESS: 68 CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES - PARIS 8 e

THE L ARGEST SINGLE-BRAND PERFUMES AND COSMETICS BOUTIQUE IN THE WORLD

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the most everyday objects into the luxurious. French glassware brand Lalique was founded by jeweller and glass maker René Lalique in 1887. After several years of focusing solely on fine jewellery, Lalique began experimenting with glassware, and soon became one of the leading glassmakers in Europe. The brand currently has three boutiques in Paris, and this year sees the launch of a new collaboration with interior designer and architect Pierre-Yves Rochon. The result is Signature, a collection of furniture that marries Lalique’s glasswear traditions with Rochon’s unique take on contemporary luxury. ‘I have always admired René Lalique’s creativity and talent,’ comments Rochon. ‘With subtlety and excellence, he managed to perfectly marry the purity of glass with the precision of metal.’ It’s the combination of glass and metal Above (from top): Lalique boutique on rue Royale; René Lalique in 1910

PHOTO: (TOP) LUC BOEGLY

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The city plays host to brands that offer some of the finest homeware and interior decor products in the world

that is the signature of this new collection. As Rochon explains, ‘I wanted to write a new story in which metal sublimates the transparency, purity and brilliance of crystal.’ Consisting of a crystal and gold leaf dresser, a crystal and white glass mirrored table, a marble and crystal vanity and wall lights in crystal and bright nickel, the collection beautifully encapsulates Lalique’s impeccable attention to detail in glass decoration with Rochon’s modern interpretation of the art deco style. Christofle was founded by jeweller Charles Christofle in 1830, and soon expanded its

range to include electroplated home decor pieces. By 1900, when its art nouveau masterpieces were one of the hits of that year’s World Fair in Paris, it was definitely a name to know. Nowadays, Christofle’s collections of cutlery, table and glassware and silver decorative items – found in its five standalone Paris boutiques – are some of the finest in the world. The most recent addition to the brand’s range is Mood, a 24-piece cutlery set housed in a elegant egg case, itself a lavish addition to the dinner table. Available in silver, rose gold and yellow gold, it proves that in Paris, even the humble spoon can become a luxury item

Above (clockwise from bottom left): two pieces from the Lalique Signature collection in collaboration with Pierre-Yves Rochon; Mood by Christofle

PHOTO: ETIENNE MAURY

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Above: FaurÃ© Le Page accessories

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WEAPONS OF SEDUCTION They say all’s fair in love and war, but rarely are the two so closely linked as at historic Parisian brand Fauré Le Page, as Hannah Lewis discovers

n a world where most of the things we desire can be bought at the click of a button, there’s a certain charm to a purchase that can only be made in a store. The experience of shopping in the flesh is tactile and personal in a way that a website cannot be; the right boutique can make the retail experience memorable in itself. In the case of a brand such as Fauré Le Page, whose beautiful leather goods and accessories can be purchased in just two cities in the world, a new level of exclusivity is added. This

is a brand for those in the know: a cult buy that will instantly turn the heads of collectors and fashion insiders alike. Fauré Le Page began life 300 years ago in 1717, early in the reign of King Louis XV of France. Master gunsmith to kings and princes, it provided weapons and accessories to the great and good of the European courts, and many of its historic creations now grace the collections of leading museums around the world. Through the years, the firm

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has featured in works by the most famous writers in France, from François-René de Chateaubriand to Honoré de Balzac and Alexandre Dumas. In 1789 and later in 1830, Fauré Le Page armed the revolutionary forces in France, displaying an independent spirit that continues to characterise the brand today. ‘The house has constantly been able to make audacious choices,’ explains artistic director Augustin de Buffévent. ‘Audacity is part of the soul of the house, which entered the annals of French history when it defiantly handed out weapons to the revolutionary forces.’ One more recent audacious choice was that of venturing into the world of women’s handbags and accessories. Though not without precedent, as Fauré Le Page was already a leading maker of hunting accessories

– cartridge cases, kitbags, satchels and the like – this was still an exciting new venture for the brand, and one that has brought it to an even wider audience. Its stunning boutique opened on rue Cambon in 2012, followed by a space in Galeries Lafayette and two boutiques in Tokyo. These remain the only Fauré Le Page retailers in the world. In keeping with its history, Fauré Le Page sees its luxurious accessories as ‘weapons of seduction’, and as much care and skill goes into making them as has gone into every piece in its 300-year history. Today the creative team consists of everyone from architects to leather workers, carpenters to silkscreen artists. A signature of the brand is its ‘écailles’ or ‘scales’ patterned fabric, which references the traditional hallmark of master gunmakers. The material is handcrafted, before being

Above (clockwise from top left): Fauré Le Page store; the brand’s artistic director, Augustin de Buffévent; the space at Galeries Lafayette

PHOTO: (TOP RIGHT) DIANE ARQUES/ADAGP, PARIS, 2016

VENTURING INTO THE WORLD OF WOMEN’S BAGS AND ACCESSORIES WAS AN AUDACIOUS CHOICE

29 mars 2017, Paris Hugo Sauzay photographié par Karim Sadli Online shop : www.defursac.fr

112, rue de Richelieu - Paris IIè 34, avenue de l’Opéra - Paris IIè 146, boulevard Saint Germain - Paris VIè

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screen-printed using a process similar to that used on silk. It is then waxed and grained, making it glossy and resilient yet soft and supple. The canvas is available in only six colours, each reflecting a different aspect of the brand, from the steel grey of rifle barrels to a blue in tribute to Paris. ‘The Daily Battle in our toile écailles quickly became a must-have,’ says de

Buffévent of the brand’s signature shopping tote, which has achieved cult status. The écailles carry-on bag is another favourite among handbag collectors. A quick internet search will reveal a host of blogs and forums dedicated to the range at Fauré Le Page, and de Buffévent sees the brand’s unique history as central to this success. ‘Our collection of luxury bags, decorated with

Above (from top): two Fauré Le Page Battle Ready bags; the brand’s signature Daily Battle bags

PHOTOS: (BOTTOM) ETIENNE MAURY

The brand’s history is central to its success

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the iconic scale motif, bears the hallmark of a glorious past allied to a deathless modernity,’ he explains. The gun motif has become another signature of the women’s collection, continuing the metaphor of weapons of love. ‘True to its motto, armed for seduction, Fauré Le Page offers arms to win any heart,’ enthuses de Buffévent. The Calibre 21 handbag has been a huge success. A leather bag that can be worn in a variety of ways, it features a pistol-shaped pochette on the front in écailles canvas, and is now available in a larger size, as the Calibre 27.

The gun pochette, which can be clipped to any of Fauré Le Page’s larger bags, is another timeless favourite. This season is particularly exciting for the brand, says de Buffévent. Not only will the team launch both a new colour of its écailles canvas and a full line of eyewear, but there will also be a book to celebrate 300 years, and special events and displays in store. ‘The house is full of projects. I don’t know which one will come out first … let’s keep it as a surprise. That’s more exciting.’ Mystery and exclusivity, after all, are part of the charm of Fauré Le Page

Above (clockwise from bottom left): two views of the Carnet de Chasse; Calibre 27 handbag; écailles carry-on bag, all Fauré Le Page

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TABLE TALK The French capital is famed for its noteworthy chefs. Madeleine MurrayLyons samples some of the best restaurants in the city

Parisian chefs are known as some of the best in the world, thanks to the global appeal and reputation of French cooking, but also as a result of the top gourmets’ efforts in the field of culinary wizardry. Indeed, in 2010 gastronomy was declared by Unesco to be part of France’s ‘intangible cultural heritage’. While the trendiest food hotspots in recent years might be Tokyo or the Nordic region, the chefs of the French capital can be counted upon to deliver the highest quality cuisine that is innovative while remaining true to the country’s traditional dishes. From three Michelin-starred chef Anne-Sophie Pic to Cyril Lignac, a celebrity chef on the rise, the cuisiniers from Paris will astound and delight in equal measure. globalblue.com

PHOTO: © MAISON PIC

L A DAM E D E PI C The sleek interior of La Dame de Pic provides the perfect backdrop to chef extraordinaire Anne-Sophie Pic’s impressive creations. The four-course Menu Plaisir (‘pleasure menu’) offers two starters followed by a meat or fish dish and a dessert, and with the Gourmet menu you get both main course options. Recent dishes include blue mackerel marinated in smoked Lapsang Souchong tea, served with risotto Acquerello and celery, and Limousin veal in the spirit of a Wellington with anchovy fillets, young chard from Provence, tonka beans and Limoncello-infused jus. Pic has been taking the culinary world by storm, so there has never been a better time to visit her namesake Paris outpost. La Dame de Pic, 20 rue du Louvre, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 4040, anne-sophie-pic.com

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ARPÈGE

LE QUINZIÈME Situated a stone’s throw from Parc André Citroën, Le Quinzième is one of four restaurants from French celebrity chef Cyril Lignac. The gourmet creations here, served in two exceptional tasting menus of four and seven courses, update traditional concepts of French gastronomy. The menus are seasonal, but recent dishes have included Brittany lobster with potato gnocchi, lobster cream and wild globalblue.com

pepper from Madagascar, Bernard Antony cheese with salad and toasted bread, and a dessert of Ecuadorian chocolate mousse with praline ice cream and crunchy hazelnut cocoa. Lignac has amassed an epicurean empire, with five patisseries and one chocolaterie to his name, alongside his quartet of restaurants. Le Quinzième, 14 rue Cauchy, 75015 Paris, +33 (0)1 4554 4343, restaurantlequinzieme.com

PHOTO: (TOP) J.C AMIEL

Alain Passard’s eatery Arpège opened in 1986 and earned its first and second Michelin stars in the two years that followed, with a third following on the restaurant’s 10th anniversary. In 2016 Arpège celebrated keeping its threestar status for 20 years, and it continues to draw diners in their droves. Utilising ingredients grown within Arpège’s three vegetable gardens, the restaurant offers a 12-course seasonal vegetable tasting menu as well as a similarly stunning option for meat eaters. One thing you must try is the patented Passard bouquet de roses dessert – an apple tart with swirled slices of fruit that give the impression of the most regal of blooms. Arpège, 84 rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4705 0906, alain-passard.com

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PHOTO: NIALL CLUTTON

CAMÉLIA Known for being a specialist in molecular gastronomy, Thierry Marx applies his own personal brand of edible theatre to the menu at Camélia. There is a weekday lunch set menu, the Daily Marx, as well as an evening tasting menu and an à la carte selection. From starters including sea bass tartare with guacamole, radishes and Siokombu condiment, to mains of Aubrac beef with

scamorza, tomatoes and smoked aubergine caviar, every dish is well balanced and beautifully presented. Round off your meal with a selection of cheeses from Mons and be sure to book a table on the magical terrace for a truly unforgettable evening. Camélia, Mandarin Oriental Paris, 251 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 7098 7888, mohg.com

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GUIDE

PHOTO: OLIBAC CC BY 2.0

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Paris with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the best places to find exquisite men’s tailoring to a super-stylish hair salon. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our welltravelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/paris.

Above: a view of the basilica of Sacré-Coeur from the rooftop terrace of Printemps department store on boulevard Haussmann

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SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOS: XIMENA DANERI; KIRSTY WELSH

‘Wherever you go in the City of Love, there’s always something new to discover, whether it’s an unexpected view of an iconic sight, a quirky display in a chic boutique or a piece of stylish street art’ – Kirsty Welsh, SHOP’s online managing editor

globalblue.com

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Follow our teamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s travels on Instagram @shopcontent. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

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CHÂTEAU D'EAU

Cartier The revamped Panthère de Cartier watch in yellow gold and sapphire or rose gold and diamonds is an essential buy for the new season. Cartier, 41 rue de Rennes, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4549 6580, cartier.com

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Fauré Le Page Choose a classic tote in the brand’s signature écailles fabric, and look out for the new eyewear collection, too. Fauré Le Page, 21 rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4927 9936, faurelepage.com

RAMBUTEAU

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Montblanc The new boutique from this icon of accessories will enchant visitors with its watches, writing implements and immersive in-store experiences. Montblanc, 152 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4420 0770, montblanc.com

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Le Quinzième Sample Cyril Lignac’s culinary delights at his high-end restaurant. Le Quinzième, 14 rue Cauchy, 75015 Paris, +33 (0)1 4554 4343, restaurantlequinzieme.com FEATURED ON PAGE 58

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Marchand Drapier’s store reflects the same contemporary-meetsclassic French style for which the young menswear brand is known. The ground floor offers a take on the traditional world of tailoring, while the floor above houses a creative studio. There’s also a private salon where you can see the more formal collections. Marchand Drapier, 4 rue Madame, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4236 9210, marchand-drapier.com

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CIF ● ON IZ A NIC ELLI C MARNI ● ● GUCCI C O L PA R KO L A S ● ● ST DUPONT VI L L EC T L A N ● EBR ION E ● BLUMARINE EQ U MONTAIGNE MARKET ● ● ● IN ● MA KI ● JIL SANDER X& A RT TO N ● ● DOLCE & GABBANA IO M MO AT T C E S AL I ● I ● ARB ● CHLOÉ CÉLINE ● OLI RE OP EU NI TIQ F ● RALPH LAUREN FA Ç G SAINT LAURENT ● ON A L LO ● UE MA ● BARBARA BUI NA JE ● BONBON BLE ● FENDI ● M ● SER WATCH ● I CHANEL ● GE CHA ● RIS TI NIK ESPACE EG LU BONPOINT ● ● EMILIO PUCCI O● ER MM ● MARIGNAN LT O ● B U CO D A ● LOEWE ZIL SM LE IEL LI ● AKRIS ● ● B CE F E S CO RU E RU NC T IN S AZZEDIN E FR A ● B FR A AT GE I ● CHANEL ● N ÇO ALAÏA ● AR LMA RÈ SALVATORE IAN IS 1E ● K● B A C O U R EG S FERRAGAMO ● I R R R DY ’ E R L ● ERES ● O T TED MM ● I ● ●Z ● YVES SALOMON LI ● ● NA LD VERSACE ● IC ● LORO PIANA C A WO R O P T T RUE ● GIVENCHY DS IRST ARE FR A G N ÇO D ● F IN FI NT JIMMY I S 1 E IO R ● LA RA R ● CHOO ● A ER G V LI ON FE O ● DIOR JOAILLERIE ● AIS RUF N M T SANDRO ● VA E LA E LA I N H G & TA I R ● D Z A D I VO L NINA RICCI ● ●D CHRISTIAN ● N E E R ● DIOR COUTURE OW STO ● B INE ● BABY DIOR IGU ●B

CA FOU RON ● QUE IM A T ● NI ● THO MAS B R U P IN K ● CUC NEL L IN E LLI O ● RO

NOUEZ MOI ●

MAX MARA ●

B ILE

● LOUIS VUITTON

● GIORGIO ARMANI

● MANOUSH

HARRY WINSTON ●

RUE

LT ●

RÉ

CC A

● JOSEPH

● BOTTEGA VENETA

● CESARE PACIOTTI

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AV E

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AV E

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tallo B e llo ta e B

● GUISEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ● PRADA ● PRADA MEN ● LORO PIANA ● ESCADA

● GIORGIO ARMANI ● DAVIDOR

Restaurant

Metro

Café

Featured In This Issue

L SA

1E R

METAL FLAQUE ●

RÉ

● KRIS VAN ASSCHE

Featured In This Issue

AV .D

L’ O

PÉ

Place André Malraux

● FREY WILLE

E L IE U

E R IC H

FREY WILLE ● EB MEYROWITZ ● H STERN ●

RUE D

IG LI O N E

● CORD ELIA

● ZIMMERL I ● DAVID MORRIS ● OMEGA ● ALEXIS ● DE GRISOGO NO ● CHOPARD

P.34

● KILI AN ● TOM FORD JIMMY ● CHOO ● KITON P.75 ● ZARA ● COACH ● ALEXAND ER MCQUEEN ● BRIONI ● EMPORIO ARMANI ● MARC JACOBS ● MIKI HOUSE

● CHANEL

HELLE R U E D E L’ E C

● AESOP

WOL FORD ● OCTO PUSS Y ● CADO LLE ●

RU E SA IN T- H ON

LINE A PIU ● P.92 CHLO É ● PORT S 1961 ● DSQU ARED 2 ● TUM I ● J M WES TON ● YVES SALO MON ● HOTE L COST ES ● FR AT EL LI RO SS ET TI ● RU E D E C A ST

APERLAЇ ● FREDERIC MALLE ●

CAREL ●

RU E SA IN T- HO NO

● CASTANER SHIATZY ● CHEN ● VEBER

'A R

Non-Global Blue Retailer

● NODUS ● CECILE ET JEANNE ● TOUS

PLEIN SPORT ● MES SIKA ● MOR ABIT O ●

ROBE RTO CAVA LLI ●

FAURÉ LE PAGE ●

NOCIBE ● CHEMINS BLANCS ● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ●

CAMILLE FOURNET ● RU E C AM B O N

● CHANE L

JOHN ● GALLIANO

Place Vendôme

● JOVOY LORENA ● ANTONIAZZI ● CAROLINA HERRERA

AN NIC K GO UTA L● PIE RR E MA RCO ● AV ED L INI ● IS STE LLA ● E GOYA RD M CCA RTN EY ● E GOYA R D ● ● EX W IH IL O MI L L ER ● G IUS ZA N OT TI D ESI EPP E ● DO DO GN ● ● SA KA RE LU CIE N PEL LAT - FIN ET ● ● BA LDI N I N I CH UR CH ● ● MOYN AT GER AR D DA REL ● ● P H ILIP PE FER RIC HA R D G RA R A ND IS ND ●

HEURGON ● OSCAR CARVALLO ● GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL ● PORSCHE DESIGN ● RENE CAOVILLA ● CHANEL ● TOD’S ● CARTIER ●

ROGER VIVIER ● LANCÔME ● VALENTINO ●

RUE DU FAUB O U RG SA INT- H ONORÉ LANVIN HOMME ● SERGIO ROSSI ● CARITA ● LA BAGAGER IE ● BERLU TI ● MONCL ER ● PANERAI ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● SARTORE ● PAUL SMITH ● MIU MIU ● AUDEMAR S PIGUET ●

●

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE JITROIS SAINT LAURENT YVES SALOMON ARAMIS BLOCH JUN ASHIDA SAINT LAURENT BOUCHERON

FEMM E ● LANVI N FEMME ● LA PERLA ERMAN NO ● SCERV INO A V EN ETA GA VENET BOT T EGA ● BOTTE ● LORO PIANA ● PRADA P INKO ● PINKO ● GUCCI

● HERMÈS

● GIVENCHY

● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

● HUMBERT & POYET ● BURBERRY ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● DAMIR DOMA ● MOSCHINO ● HOGAN ● ERMENEGI LDO ZEGNA ● LEONARD ● SALVATOR E FERRAGAM O

RÉ

M ID ES E DE S PY R A

AUDIO ● COTÉLAC ● TECHNICA

VALERIE ● DANENBERG MAISO N MICHE L ●

MAJE ● FENDI ●

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

ELENA MIRO ● ROGER & GALLET ● FLORSHEIM ● THE KOOPLES ● HILIO ● OLDEN ●

NO RÉ SANDRO ●

TARA JARMON ANNE FONTAINE GUERLAIN HERVE CHAPELIE R

GO IRE

S A IN T -H O N O

ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● PETIT BATEAU ●

● ● ● ●

● LONGCHA MP

RIN

EM ● BANUE MA ERG L ● F RU D ● F IZ O ● A B IA N ● RM A R IAN A F IL ● IDO S A C N N E A IP P I TA S A L A R ● CR T IN ER R IE R I A ● H O CO & A R IN L AT ● LM ● O R I A R IN ALD ● PM A R INB L U I IE R A E N R E C FA NT A ● SO T H E B R D IIN Y ’S N ● M IL A DY FR ET TE ● ● BUR K ID S PA M CE ● ● CHO A PA R D ● SO N IA R A LB ER Y K IE L ● PO TA FE IR AY R R ET TI ● ● PA U A P O S TR L & SH OPHE ● ARK ● CH R IS T IA N LOU B O U T IN ● ETR O ● PO MELL AT O ● BAR BAR A BUI ● BALLY

U RG

● STONE ISLAND ● SATELLITE ● SEQUOIA ● PARABOOT

CHRONOPASSION ● DJULA ●

● TORY BURCH ● MAX MARA

● BRACCIAL INI

WEMPE LANCASTE R LEETHA GROSSEN S

FA U BO

Global Blue Retailer R U E S A I N T- F L O R E N T I N

JEAN PATOU ●

● DIOR MONTRES ● SAINT-HONORÉ ● JO MALONE ● MAC ● BONPOINT ● MONIES ● STELLA LUNA

VILEBREQUIN ● FURLA ● MICHAEL KORS ● & OTHER STORIES ● MULBERRY ● VALENTINO ●

● ● ● ●

RUE ROYA L E

FRAGONARD ● PEUTEREY ● LA PRAIRIE ●

RU E SA IN T- HO

● EXEMPLAIRE ● AKILLIS ● DIPTYQUE

● BURMA ● STUART WEITZMAN COMPTOIR ● DES COTONNIERS

RUE

COLETTE ● CHANTAL THOMAS ● COSMOPARIS ● MAJESTIC FILATURES ● P.34 PENHALIGON’S ●

MISSONI ● MANOUSH ● KIEHL'S ● BA&SH ● THEORY ●

PAULE KA ● PAUL SMITH ●

70 | G U I D E

Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré

Rue Saint-Honoré West

OR É

Rue Saint-Honoré East

DELVAU X ●

S H O P | 71

CHRISTOPHE ROBIN Last year saw the opening of hair colourist extraordinaire Christophe Robin’s first standalone salon. As well as offering salon services, it has an in-house boutique selling Robin’s haircare products and a complimentary product-testing service. Once the expert consultants assess the needs of your locks, take your position at the beautiful custom-made mother-of-pearl shell in the middle of the boutique, a tribute to Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, where your

Rue du Boissy D'Anglas

chosen product will be applied by the dedicated staff. Finally style your hair at the drying station and marvel at the fantastic results. Christophe Robin launched his first haircare products in 1999, and his brand’s cleansing masks and hairbrushes are now available at more than 500 retailers worldwide. Christophe Robin, 16 rue Bachaumont, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4020 0283, christophe-robin.com

Rue du Malesherbes CROCKETT ● AND JONES

● SIA NINE WEST ●

● EQ:IQ

JEAN VIER ●

SY D'ANGL RUE BOIS

ALESSI ●

LAGUIOLE ●

● YVES DELORME ● THE KOOPLES ● GUY DEGRENNE ● AGATHA

● BURBERRY OLIVER B O ● GRANT LE JARDIN U D’ULYSSE ● L E VA ● BRUCE FIELD

MANFIELD ●

MAJE ●

PHOTO: ROMAIN BOÉ

● LANVIN

RUE DU FA U B OU RG SAI N T-HONORÉ

globalblue.com

RU E D ’AN JO U

● KI6 HERMÈS ●

● ANNE FONTAINE ● ERIC BOMPARD ● BRIC’S

RUE ROYALE

JOHN LOBB ●

SAMSUNG ●

LOUIS PION ● ODIOT ● GUY DEGRENNE ● PATRICK BELL & ROSS ● ROGER ● ● LEJEUNE LOUIS EDOUARD

72 | G U I D E

● GAP

EV AR

O D OT

● BOULANGER ● AIGLE ● TOMMY HILFIGER

● MARELLA

● VI LA NI

HE AU

HEDEGREN ● CHANEL ●

X N

Global Blue Retailer

FAURÉ LE PAGE ● YUMIKO KATSURA ●

● LE JACQUARD FRANÇAIS HERVÉ CHAPELIER ● LES ATELIERS DE LA MAILE ●

Ladurée ● WEMPE

RU E SA IN T- HO

● ● ● ● ●

ROYAL QUARTZ EMILE LÉON O J PERRIN HAVILAND / DAUM ARTHUS BERTRAND

Non-Global Blue Retailer

NO R É

C A S T IG

● POIRAY ● IRO

LI O N E

TOM FORD ●

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ

RUE DE

RU E ROYA L E

AUDEMARS PIGUET ● HEURGON ● BONPOINT ● ST LOUIS ● MOUKARZEL ● BERNARDAUD ● LALIQUE ● CHRISTOFLE ● J L COQUET ● MAXIM'S ●

ESCALES ● LE VILLAGE ROYALE ● ● NAPAPIJRI CHANEL ● APC ● ● EMLING

VILLEROY & BOCH ● GUCCI ●

MAISON ● DE FAMILLE

GERARD ● DAREL ● PINEL & PINEL ● THE KOOPLES ● MARINA RINALDI ● VERTU

DIOR ●

I●

● KENZO

PATRICK ROGER ●

TH CA

●

MAILLE ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● RALPH LAUREN ●

BCBGMAXAZRIA ●

●

EV AR

●

AR EV ●

ZWILLING ●

Place de la Madeleine

IS CO T N AN NE TO FR PI ES ● W JM ●

ZARA HOME ● LIPAULT ● LA MAISON DU E CHOCOLAT ● IN

● FAUCHON ● SEPHORA ● ALAIN FIGARET

MADELE INE

RUE DE LA PAIX

U R OY

● YVES THURIES ● LE CREUSET ● LA BAGAGERIE ● CHRISTINE LAURE ● SALAMAND ER ● FIL À FIL ● PRONOVIAS ● MADURA ● FAIRMOUNT ● CAREL ● PIERRE CUVEX I SK N OV H O S R E S WA RFA U C E ● ● ●

DE M A

NICOLAS ●

GANTS HELION CHAVANEL CAROLL JB GUANTI

RUE G

BRITISH DESTOCK ● OBREY ● PETIT BATEAU ● COS ● SAINT JAMES ● KUJTEN ●

RUE T RO N CH E T

JACADI ● IKKS ● CATIMINI ●

● LA MAROQUIN ERIE PARISIENNE ● EKYOG ● NATALYS ● LE DESSOUS CHIC ● WEILL ● ARTHUR & FOX ● WINONA ● EMA PIAZI ● ● ● ●

OLIVER GRANT ●

BURMA ● SWATCH ● L ANCEL ● GUESS ● DESIGUAL ● MATY ●

B ER

RUE T RO NCHET

AUBADE ● ETAM LINGERIE ● CARETTA ● ARTHUR ●

S C R IB

● CAFE COTON

CHARLES COTONAY ● EMLING ●

RUE AU

● NINE WEST ● EQ:IQ LA CA ● ERIC BOMPARD PA F É D Place Opéra CLAUDIE M O PIERLOT ● NA A IX ● E M CO P M AI ● BENETTON ● S M ON W BON ● BASLER ON A A B T SA T B DIVINE ● PRINCESSE R C O TA M S B L A I Z H ● N FRAGONARD ● ● TAM TAM G O N A● PHILIPPE CA HE NIT C ● B FERRANDIS ● U CH RT UER E ● ● CALIDA ER IER ● GOLFINO ● ER ● ● COMPTOIR DES ● IKKS MAJE ● COTONNIERS ● ERIC BOMPARD ● RUE DAUNOU PE GAP ● ● OMEGA RI G ● BALLY P.32 Z A OT ● RA ● ● HARMONT & BLAINE B GA AB ● LACOSTE P Y ● HACKETT ● ● MANFIELD ● GANT

● MASSIMO DUTTI

MARIONNAUD ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● EXCLUSIF ● NESPRESSO ● COLOMBINE ● PRINCESSE TAM TAM ●

HEDIARD ● MAISON DE LA TRUFFE ● CAVIAR KASPIA ●

AU B

RUE

DEVERNOIS ●

RUE

RU E VOLNEY

GUERLAIN ● UN JOUR AILLEURS ● DJULA ●

NESPRESSO ●

Rue Tronchet, Place de la Madeleine, Boulevard Malesherbes, Rue Boissy d’Anglas, Boulevard de la Madeleine, Rue Royale, Boulevard des Capucines & Rue Scribe

Metro

Café

Global Blue Refund Office

S H O P | 73

FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 68

S NE CI CA

Place Opéra ● JAIME MASCARO

● BENETTON

EV AR

MENARD ● ALAIN FIGARET ● WASKOLL ● ALANGE & SÖHNE VAN LAACK ● GAREL ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● P.30 POIRAY ●

P.37

ALFRED DUNHILL ● MAUBOUSSIN ● GARLAND ● CARTIER ● MELLERIO ● PIAGET ● OFFICINE PANERAI ● BUCCELLATI ● IWC ● BULGARI ● ● ● R IE ON RT IT T A C VU IS OU

ELSA SCHIAPARELLI ●

Ritz Paris L

GRAFF ●

● MARVELLA ● TARTINE ET CHOCOLAT ● REPETTO ● LALIQUE ● VANITY FAIR P.30 ● BAUME ET MERCIER ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● LERY ● DINH VAN ● BURMA ● FRED ● KORLOFF ● FOLLI FOLLIE ● BREITLING ● JAQUET DROZ ● ROLEX ● TIFFANY & CO. GLASHÜTT E ● ORIGINAL ● DAUM ● TECLA VACHERON ● CONSTANT IN

N IE E DA

LLE C

CHOPARD ●

RUE SAIN T-H O NO R É

O VA

● CHANEL ● PIAGET ● SWATCH ● CHAUMET ● HUBLOT PATEK ● PHILIPPE

●

FRED ●

A SAN

R PE AR ● CHARVET & ● M26 VENDOME EF LE ● BOUCHERO N C N VA ● ● BLANCPAIN

Place Vendôme

ROLEX ● JAEGER LECOULTRE ●

OMEGA ●

RUE DE LA PAIX

With its roots in luxury textile production, family business Dormeuil dates back to 1842 and has developed an unparalleled reputation worldwide. Providing the top global fashion houses with materials for their creations, including its notable Extreme Vicuna and Vanquish fabrics, Dormeuil has recently expanded into creating its own clothing and accessories. Visit one of its two Paris boutiques to discover sleek suits, knitted waistcoats and padded jackets, as well as an exceptional selection of ties and pocket squares in an array of colours and patterns. Dormeuil, 51 rue François 1er, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4561 4270, dormeuil.com

Place Vendôme & Rue de la Paix

DORMEUIL

● MIKIMOTO ● DIOR

SELECTED STORES IN RITZ PARIS: Concept Store Colombo Via RUE SAIN T-HO NOR É Della Spiga Tasaki

LOCAL TIP

A new museum paying tribute to Yves Saint Laurent will open in Paris in October. Based at 5 avenue Marceau, the brand’s home for nearly 30 years, it will house temporary themed exhibits and retrospective shows. The opening goes hand in hand with that of a sister museum in Marrakech, where the designer owned a house for many years. museeyslparis.com

Hotel

Featured In This Issue

74 | G U I D E

Boulevard Saint-Germain, Rue Saint-Sulpice, Rue du Four, Rue de Sèvres & Rue de Grenelle

ISABEL MARANT ●

MABILLON

ELEVEN PARIS ● DARMON ● LES PETITES ● AN’GE ● CAREL ● DU PAREIL AU MÊME ● ●L HUGO BOSS ● ● D ODIN ● N ARM G ● A ANIE ON IGL E

SAINT-GERMAIN DES-PRÉS

GALERIE CATHERINE HOUARD ●

●

● SHADE ● BARBARA BUI

● VENTILO

BOBBI BROWN ●

IEU

● LONGINES ● LOSCO ● FREY WILLE ● CAFÉ COTON

RC HE

● MARISA

-M I

● RENE DERHY ● PARALLELE ● MAC DOUGLAS ● MAJE

Non-Global Blue Retailer

SANDRO THIBAULT ●

JET ● SET

OLIVER ● GRANT

● HERMÈS

BOUL EVAR D RASPAIL

BRAND BAZAR ● SÈVRES CLARINS ●

Global Blue Retailer

● ROBERT CLERGERIE

● EQUIPAGGIAMENTI

OMEGA ●

● SWATCH

PABLO ● GERARD DAREL ●

KIEHL'S ● KIPLING ● B’ROOM GRAFFITI ● PRINCESSE TAM TAM ● DURANCE ● SHANG XIA ●

AUBADE ● BALIBARIS ●

BERLUTI ● ALAIN FIGARET ● CYRILLUS ● LE TANNEUR ● BIBA ●

L'ARTISAN PARFUMEUR ●

SAINT-SULPICE

KERRY MARA ● SANDRO ● HESCHUNG ● SWILDENS ●

●

● NILAÏ ● H E RT H E K AUBADE ● OO V PLE AGNÈS B ● Z● C H A E S AD P IG ELIE ● R MARIONNA UD ● ● V O LT & ● VA E S O PA I R E ILE TWIN SET ● BRE SATELLITE ● QU IN

RU E DE SÈ V RE S

COMPTOIR DES ● COTONNIERS

RTE

●

DSQUARED2 ●

A PA

COCCINELLE ● SUNDEK ● TOD’S ●

E GR

● LA BAGAGERIE 7 FOR ALL ● MANKIND ● NAPAPIJRI

●

ALEXANDRA SOJFER EDWARD GREEN SAVE THE QUEEN LOEWE GALERIE ISSEY MIYAKE

KUJTEN ● LEON & HARPER ● UGG ● REINE ROSALIE ● SUGAR ● MELLOW YELLOW ● MANOUSH ● APRIATI ● MARINA RINALDI ●

T T EN T IN R OO E S A L A UR A B LL LA BI GIE ● PA MA R ● IS MA E EX N OR AL ISO AT O ● ● MA LV M EN V ● S A AG A E● AR ● I C RR LIN K LE ● FE R C É A C OO N ● PE M CH IL S ● GO I● TA G DI M A M S I ●● NE I IN TA S RI A SE CA .37 R O G E T E 5' S P 4 IO AN IS ● CE ● RG SS P T U ● IN S E F R E - B A R E AR I S ● PR N U I R TT ● LA EA UT NE ME H ● DE J R A EN AM MIT ES KB SK LS IN L L E AU ● AR P S E CH LL UR YE MA IC VO I● ● ER F I F E N T● ED T FR KE AG U R A N ● WIC E I AT I S T I N ● ● OC HR UT ET ● C BO K U AR LO E M OR

● ● ● ● ●

N E M RE E M O NC DE E É EH SA R R S R U N D TOI G L A A N T A C IN L R P OT ● VI ML CE R G M ● E AR E HA RL ● M I V C TA P I E I S G ● OL N AN IE AR ● LO R D P K A L AU M O C S R ● CO PE M ●

● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

VIGNES ● APOSTROPH E ● RU ED PAULE KA ● ES ● ETRO SA KARL IN TS LAGERFELD ● PÈ ● IL GUFO RE VERSUS ●

GAP ● DESCAMPS ● SAKARÉ ●

●M A

● THE KOOPLES ● STEFAN GREEN ● THE SLOWEAR STORE ● MONCLER ● VANESSA SEWARD RU ● RALPH LAUREN E DU ● SONIA RYKIEL D

POIRAY ●

CITY PHARMA ● DIA PO MA M D ’A P NT IS I● BIL FR EE SIMO LIE L S M ANCE ● AR KE ● T● LES IK CO M O N K S ● LLE TR CT ES OR ●

EV AR

FAÇONNABLE ● GERARD DAREL ● ● CARON PARIS SHU UEMURA ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● ● ARTHUR & FOX MURAT ● ● JUST CAMPAGNE MAUBOUSSIN ● LIU JO ● ● BURBERRY

LE 22 LUNETIER ●

FABRICE ●

● HEYRAUD ● LA POINTURE THEA SO SWEET ● ● JOE DAVEN ● KINZA PATRICK ROGER ● ● LIU JO CHRISTIAN ● ANNAH LACROIX ● ● INTIMISSIMI ● SILK & CASHMERE SAINT ● BEL AIR LAURENT ● ● PETIT BATEAU ● WHAT FOR ANNICK GOUTAL ●

R UE DU F OU

COP COPINE ● SINEQUANONE ● TARA JARMON ● ARTS ET CALZEDONIA ● BIJOUX ● TED LOUIS VUITTON ● BAKER ●

L P IC

CARVEN ● IKKS ● IRO ●

S A IN

R U● MARIONNAUD EB

RUE

COCCINELLE ●

ON FRANCIS KLEIN ● AP AR FABRICE ● T

● DIESEL

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CHRISTOFLE BIJOUX ●

AU VIEUX CAMPEUR ● MAXIMILIEN ● P.32 DE FURSAC ● CAROLL ●

BIE

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THIERRY LASRY ●

- BABYLONE

Department Store

Le Bon March é

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Kiton is known for its exquisite men’s tailoring. However, its womenswear is just as exceptional this season, as the suave suiting and impeccably crafted jackets prove. The brand prides itself on its use of wearable fabrics that offer contemporary yet classic flair to any wardrobe, and its autumn/winter 2017/18 collection features silk and cashmere alongside other fine fabrics. Opt for a houndstooth gilet and skirt, paired with a classic white shirt, or go androgynous with a grey pinstriped suit. Kiton, 378 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5862 5757, kiton.it

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MA X ●W MAR H AT A● FOR ●M MA A X& MOI S T E L R C O ‘P O ● JA LO ● LA F C Q UA R ORE B IM B D FR S T● ● PR AYL ANÇ A IS ● M IN C E S S BER OL A ● E TA E N IC ● Z AK T M TA E● LES M P E T IT F IN E ● G A PA S HA ● RELL ● U LE IV A T D E L S AT E L IE S ● ● N ICO IR E A MA ● M E T H IN IL R S K IR A L E ● ● B AA J E S T IC G S P IE R N F RE E● IL AT ● IN & S H URE L AN HERMÉ ● S ● M D IE S CAS TER ● A P IN E L L I ● ● LE M MON A S C N O CO M ERE ● C P T O IR D ID E S OTO N N IE E S RS

S WA R OV SKI APO ● STR OPH E● FA B ● AG HUS R IC AT H E● BER A T RAN REM D● IN IS ● SE CEN CE ● IKO D IN H VA N LES M ● ● C IT D ID IE O N T R E S Y PH ● R GU ARM E R IN A ●

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● CARTIER P.16 ● DEVERNOIS ● LANCEL ● ZARA ● X ● MONTBLANC I PR ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS O ● N L ● ESTEBAN O E M ● J M WESTON AN ● F RU Y ● E B ● ORESSENCE EB ST N X ● ON IG LE N ● ● LE CREUSET A PA S O O O E RT E R D ● D N NS O ● T O F L GA NZ S ● ● NAPAPIJRI O T L E ID E ● L T P.68 K ● MARCHAND DRAPIER K E E P LON A P CK ● ICE WATCH GA A G EL E NN HA ● JB GUANTI M KI TT MA O J O ● THE KOOPLES SPORT RY R X E S A A E ● BO CONCEPT I G D L N N N G BI ● L I O ● WEEKEND MAX MARA E L A IE D S S T I V R L T ● O O AR ER RÉ N M F RU I ● ● S AU F E L A S D E O ● S E E D ● W ● Z ES ● LEONIDAS ● M ● M RO ● JA I N RA S ● ET RES ● U VE ● BU É SU E D E P S R Y A SAINT-SULPICE P PÉ A ● E RU SE AD AR T M O ED ● CH AK IN SH RB OT ● FOSSIL ES I A I SA RO JON M ● M B S A AI ● H J A M PA A R NT ● S A ● SP RI " ● YO Y A I P Y É OS ON ÈR ● S C A L TI F R R PA E S E ● M E D ● ● M NO E Y M ● BRANDY MELVILLE IA R D2 E ● S ● AN ON Y "E OM E B B A JA R E ● RI ● M Y● ST H SA R UA GE M E ● -B ● TA S Q N I FE TE N RO ● ● GEOX JO E L ● D E N I & A DA M E ● ET JO UE NE VA UL ● DH OR ● ● HENRY PHILIPPE RA & GIN TA R O T I Q TA I P D 8 L E T O PA D 7 U ● N OU ON B U LVA A M G PA LE Y SA B B E F N B ER N A AG B S ● ● ● R N VO N O BA RR ’S ● AN E TE RIZ NT ● E FE LL ● DY ● IAN RS D F RD RE A X NE E D F U AU FO I● RE AU T M RU G L L A T ● AV E ● M R A XI T R IK N ● ED M BS IN SPO ● HA UL NG 0 ● DI RU T A 6 N J N I S 7 AC ● ● D HA 1 A A D M ER ● ● S AL SC EE ● UN JOUR AILLEURS ● RI TO SE R CR IE AR HIS RO D● EL N E● L B EP T A L LI M L'A Y L DA H A AU C

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80 88

TRANSLATIONS 暇、颠覆女性审美的连衣裙，他们造就了一场精彩纷呈、高潮迭起的时尚盛宴。在 Comme des Garçons的 2017/ 18秋冬秀场，设计师川久保玲以“未来主义廓形”为主题，带来一件件庞大宽松的裙装，其选用的材料令人不禁联想起棕色纸袋、五彩缤纷的绝缘材料和银色的迪斯科球。面料包裹着模特，服装和身体仿佛产生了距离感，让身体成为了展现这些独特艺术作品的载体。其中两大造型惊艳全场，分别为搭配有堆叠花边和拼接细节的皮革和泡沫长外衣，以及缀满八爪鱼般吸盘的全白色束腰连衣裙。这些衣服和实用性无缘，而其天马行空的旷世创意早已超出穿着的范畴。难怪今年纽约大都会艺术博物馆亦伸出橄榄枝，邀请川久保玲举办“ Art of

the In- Between”个人展，展出设计师近 140种难以定义的造型，纪念她四十年来对时尚界和传统审美的不懈挑战。川久保玲善于打破传统，因此她在最新系列中延续未来主义风格也是不足为奇的。设计大师卡尔·拉格斐（ Karl Lagerfeld）同样把目光投向了不久后的未来。“ 时装展现世界的变迁，” 这位香奈儿创意总监在品牌的 YouTube视频中这样评价 2017/ 18秋冬作品，虽然用 “ 时装展现宇宙的变迁” 来形容本季作品或许更贴切一些。在巴黎大皇宫举办的香奈儿大秀中，拉格斐从科幻中汲取灵感，诠释了他眼中的太空旅行，勾勒出星际旅行者的完美着装。银色的皮质和羊毛骑行夹克搭配闪亮的及膝长靴，全息视感毛毯风格披肩和精心装点的无指手套，还有印着宇航员印花的 T恤、连衣裙、上衣和下装 — — 这个系列就如天外来客般充满未知的惊喜。其他款式对太空元素的运用则更加微妙：缀有闪亮装饰物的无袖中款连衣裙，令人遥想起从望远镜看

中文翻译

到的太阳系点点繁星；宽大立领的迷你连衣裙，使人联想到宇航服的造型；迷你行星和火箭造型的手袋更

38: Flash Forward

为这些太空风装扮增添奇幻魅力。伴随着 Elton John

定制未来

的《 Rocket Man》音乐，时装秀在飞船的缓缓升空中落下帷幕，拉格斐一如既往地为新季度定下了基调。

从科幻风格到太空造型，巴黎时装周上刮起了一股未

宇航员已征服月球，宇宙飞船成功在火星着陆，想必

来风，Sally McIlhone带来报道

不出多久银装素裹的模特将乘搭香奈儿的飞船冲上云霄，遨游太空。

在过去的几个季度里，时尚界的目光一直定格在从年代的魅力，葆蝶家（ Bottega Veneta）重返四十年代

Mugler对外星球元素毫不陌生，该品牌旗下的 Alien香氛在全世界拥有大量粉丝。这个季度，设计师 David Koma推出剪裁利落的迷你连衣裙，灵活运用

的优雅，古驰（ Gucci）重现七十年代的怀旧西

闪闪发光的银色和蜥蜴绿面料，营造出银河迢迢的意

装。2017/ 18秋冬季，是时候把思路转向未来了。设计

境。黑色的垫肩皮风衣和缀满星辰的薄纱上衣演绎哥

师们展望明天，畅想时尚的将来：从金属材质的大幅

特太空风，而以闪电线条装饰的上衣和连体裤尤其适

运用，到源自太空旅行的创意灵感，再到令人应接不

合想为晚装增添一抹亮色的女士。双侧开叉的鲜黄色

前。2017春夏季，我们见证了 Saint Laurent回归八十

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上衣和星形胸针彰显了《星际迷航》（ Star Trek）的独特魅力，在这部经典电视剧今秋回归之际向其致敬。

Paco Rabanne为巴黎时装周带来了优雅灵动的

Porthault创立于十九、二十世纪之交，后于 1920年转型经营家纺。在一个以传统白床单为标配的时代，D Porthault为巴黎引入了印花和彩色床品，很快便大获成功。这些产品的灵感则是来源于印象派艺术家。

未来主义时装，推出了单肩垂褶上衣和不对称中裙，

如今，该品牌依然是法国最成功的家纺公司之一，

采用银色和金色的链甲风格面料，搭配闪亮的银色雕

分店遍布全球 — — 包括位于巴黎 Boccador路的一家。

花皮鞋。灰色无肩带迷你连衣裙搭配裤装，宛如下一

本季，新款高定家纺系列闪亮登场，坚守着创始人的

代宇航服。闪闪发光的长裤搭配轻薄的长袖针织衫，

初心。一款款织物采用印象派花卉图景、艺术装饰风

尽显奢华运动风范。盔甲造型的连衣裙堪称该系列中

格的图案、大胆的几何主题以及繁复的刺绣细节，只

的点睛之笔，即使出现在下一部暑期科幻大片中也绝

为达到该品牌赖以闻名的顶尖标准。

不违和。想在这个秋冬季穿出自己的太空风，就从时装界

1860年，另一家卓越的专业家纺品牌 Frette诞生于格勒诺布尔市，五年后迁去了意大利。该品牌的娴

这些最富想象力的品牌秀场中寻找灵感吧！

熟工匠在意大利北部工作，全部纺织品皆以最高档的

46: Home Chic Home

纤维制成。在圣奥诺雷郊区街（ rue du Faubourg Saint- Honoré）的 Frette精品店内，您可以零距离鉴赏最新推出的 Golden Deco系列。其灵感源自 20世纪

时髦家居

前半叶的艺术精神 — — 也即《了不起的盖茨比》时代在巴黎，人们对高品质的重视延伸到了生活的方方面

以及装饰艺术的无限繁华。其质感与装饰令人联想到

面— — 家居用品也不例外。Ruairidh Pritchard带您

装饰艺术风格的建筑、几何形状和抽象图案，再加上

了解其中品牌翘楚

花卉风情和珍珠刺绣，整个系列都让人不禁回忆起二十世纪二十年代的风貌与魅力，将那个时代的纸醉金

巴黎被誉为世界时尚之都，荟萃了香奈儿（ Chanel）、

迷带入现代卧室之中。

迪奥（ Dior）、路易威登（ Louis Vuitton）等著名的

巴黎品牌和巴黎匠人打造的产品，能让哪怕最日

设计师时尚品牌。尽管时尚产品占据着舞台中央，但

常的物品也变得奢华高端。1887年，珠宝商和玻璃制

生活中并不只有它们才可以享受奢华待遇。巴黎同样

造商 René Lalique创立了法国玻璃品牌莱俪

云集了许多法国及国际家居品牌，为您奉上全球最高

（ Lalique）。该品牌花了几年的时间专营高档珠宝，

级的家具、家纺、银器和室内装饰品，让您将奢华之感

随后开始尝试玻璃产品，并且很快成为了欧洲首屈一

带入家中。

指的玻璃制造商之一。

D Porthault是法国顶级家纺公司之一。它原是从一家女式内衣精品店发展而来，由巴黎人 Daniel

内设计师兼建筑师 Pierre-Yves Rochon联合发布全新

PHOTO: DPORTHAULT.FR

莱俪现已在巴黎开设三家精品店，今年还将与室

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的 Signature家具系列。在这个系列之中，莱俪的玻璃

的选择，” 艺术总监 Augustin de Buffévent介绍道。“

传统与 Rochon独一无二的当代奢华风情交相融合。“

大胆无畏是 Fauré Le Page灵魂的一部分，为革命军

我一直都很欣赏 René Lalique的创意和才

队分发武器的英雄壮举永载法国的史册。”

华 ,” Rochon评论说，“他成功地将玻璃的纯净与金属的精确完美结合，既微妙又卓越。” 这个新系列的重头戏便在于玻璃与金属的结

该品牌的最近一次 “ 壮举 ” 就是进军女士手袋和配饰界。在此之前，Fauré Le Page曾涉足狩猎装备并成功脱颖而出，其产品包括子弹盒、工具袋、背包等。

合。Rochon解释说：“ 我想书写一个新的故事，用金

纵是如此，此次 “进军” 对于品牌来说依然是一场激动

属将水晶的透明、纯净和璀璨加以升华。”该系列包

人心的全新冒险，它也为这家早已成名的品牌带来了

括一座水晶镶金箔碗柜、一只水晶白玻璃镜面桌、一

昆庭（ Christofle）由珠宝商 Charles Christofle

更为广泛的关注。2012年，Fauré Le Page精品店在 Cambon路惊艳面世，随后品牌进驻老佛爷百货公司，并在东京开设了两家精品店。这些便是 Fauré Le Page在全世界仅有的几家零售店。 Fauré Le Page将奢华配饰喻为“诱惑武器”，品牌的历史底蕴展露无遗。正如其 300年来的每一件作

创立于 1830年，并且很快就涉足电镀家饰产品。当它

品一样，每一件配饰都以大量心血和精湛工艺打造而

的新艺术派风格杰作在 1900年巴黎世博会上引发热

成。如今的创意团队既包括建筑师和皮匠，也包括木

捧时，昆庭之名已然如雷贯耳。如今，昆庭牌餐具、桌

匠和丝网印刷艺术家。鳞片状面料是品牌的一大标

子、玻璃制品和银制饰品居于全球最高端之列，而巴

志，这是由枪械制造大师的古老标记演变而来。所有

黎则拥有五家昆庭精品专卖店。该品牌最新推出了

材料均由手工打造，运用类似丝网印刷的平面印刷技

Mood系列，将全套 24件餐具放在一只优雅的蛋壳中，

术；随后上蜡并添加纹路，让面料变得光滑有弹性且

盏大理石水晶吊灯以及由水晶和亮镍制成的壁灯。莱俪对于玻璃饰品的细节有着极致的追求，Rochon则对艺术装饰风格有着现代化的解读，Signature系列将这两者完美地集于一身。

其本身就为餐桌增添异彩。这套餐具有银、玫瑰金和

手感轻柔。所有产品仅有 6种色调，分别代表品牌的不

黄金三种材质供您选择。该系列证明了在巴黎，哪怕

同方面，如来福枪筒的铁灰色和象征巴黎的蓝色。

是一枚普通的汤匙也能成为奢侈品。

“ 我们的 Daily Battle鳞片纹帆布手袋很快就成为了必备单品，” de Buffévent先生这般描述品牌备受

52: Weapons Of Seduction

推崇的托特购物袋。鱼鳞纹的手提行李袋则是手袋收

魅惑武器

藏者的另一款心头好。在网上随便一搜，就能看到许多博客和论坛大力推荐 Fauré Le Page的热销款

常言道：爱情如战争，即使不择手段，也在情理之中。

式。de Buffévent先生将品牌的大获成功归功于其独

而在历史悠久的巴黎品牌 Fauré Le Page，爱情与战

一无二的历史。“ 我们的精品箱包上装饰有独具代表

争交错纵横，难解难分。Hannah Lewis带您深入了解

性的鳞片纹，仿若光辉历史的烙印，同时也充满了不

在这个只要轻击鼠标就能买到几乎所有东西的世界，只能在实体店买到的东西反而别具魅力。亲临实体店的购物体验既真切又独特，是网络购物所无法比拟的；一家恰到好处的精品店本身就可以带来令人难以忘怀的零售体验。而对于法国品牌 Fauré Le Page来说，其精美的皮具和配饰全世界只有两个城市可以买到，诠释出极致尊贵的新高度。这是一家内行人士心照不宣的品牌：热销单品一露面便会引得无数收藏家和时尚界人士驻足。

PHOTO: DIANE ARQUES/ADAGP, PARIS, 2016

Fauré Le Page诞生于 1717年，那是法王路易十五统治之初，距今已有 300年的历史。作为王室的御用枪械制造商，Fauré Le Page为欧洲贵族名流提供武器和配件，许多名垂青史的作品如今珍藏在世界各地的知名博物馆中。多年以来，品牌曾多次出现在夏多勃里昂、巴尔扎克和大仲马等法国著名作家的作品中。在 1789年以及之后的 1830年，Fauré Le Page曾两度为法国大革命的军队提供武器，展现出一以贯之的独立精神，并延续到今天。“这个品牌总是做出勇敢

朽的现代感，”他介绍道。枪械图案是女士系列的另一大标志性设计元素，它一如既往地象征着爱情的武器。“ Fauré Le Page始终忠于品牌的格言，以魅力为武器，为顾客带来俘获人

РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 38: Flash Forward Назад в будущее

心的利器，” de Buffévent先生对此津津乐道。Calibre

21手袋非常成功，皮包的正面绣有一个鳞片纹面料、手枪形状的小口袋，适合多种场合使用。最近品牌推出了同款大号手袋，取名为 Calibre 27。手枪形状的小口袋也是一个备受喜爱的经典设计，它可以固定在较

От фантастических образов до космического стиля, Парижская неделя моды была всецело посвящена будущему, – рассказывает Салли Макилхоун

大的手袋上。

de Buffévent先生表示，这个季度将格外激动人心。团队不仅将带来全新的鳞片纹面料颜色和完整的眼镜系列，还将推出一本 300周年纪念书籍，并在店中举办特殊庆祝活动和展览。“ 我们正在酝酿多个项目，还不确定会率先推出哪一个……让我们尚且留一个悬念，这样才更刺激。”毕竟，神秘和专属感正是 Fauré

Le Page的魅力之所在。

76: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税当您在全球顶级购物区中的 30多万家商店消费时，环球蓝联购物退税服务（ Global Blue Tax Free

Shopping）为您节省购物开销。每年大约有两千六百多万名游客享用环球蓝联（ Global Blue）的购物退税服务，何不加入他们的行列？您只需在购物时留意环球蓝联（ Global Blue）的蓝星标志，或直接问询商家是否提供环球蓝联（ Global Blue）退税服务，然后遵循以下简单的退税流程即可：

1. 购物消费在橱窗里带有环球蓝联退税( Global Blue Tax Free) 标志的商店中购物时，请向店员出示护照原件，索要环球蓝联退税表格（ Global Blue Tax Free Form），并保存好购物票据。

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taxfree@ globalblue. com + 421 232 111 111 最低消费 € 175. 01即可申请退税，能够节省高达购买商品价12%的税。请注意：您收到的退税款是增值税减去环球蓝联的手续费。如果您选择现金退税，部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取现金退税手续费。 globalblue.cn | globalblue.ru

На протяжении последних нескольких сезонов взгляд моды был устремлен главным образом в минувшие дни. В сезоне весна-лето 2017 мы наблюдали возвращение гламура 1980-х у Saint Laurent, элегантность 1940-х у Bottega Veneta и костюмы 1970-х у Gucci. Но в сезоне осень-зима 2017/18 все кардинально изменилось. Модельеры увлеклись темой будущего и всем, что с ним связано: от тканей с металлическим отливом и межгалактических путешествий до самых невероятных платьев, бросающих вызов традиционному восприятию женственности. Результат просто не мог не вызвать восхищения публики. На показе Comme des Garçons для сезона осень-зима 2017/18 дизайнер Рей Кавакубо заострила внимание на «будущем силуэта» с серией объемных платьев из самых различных материалов: от коричневого картона до цветного утеплителя и серебристых шаров для дискотеки. Ткань окутывала моделей и, казалось, приподнимала одежду над телом. Среди главных фаворитов были платье из кожи и поролона, сочетающее оборки и заплатки, и белоснежное платье с поясом, покрытое присосками, как у осьминога. Практичными их назвать сложно, но все это восполнилось за счет их гениальности. Неудивительно, что Кавакубо выпала честь представить свои работы в Нью-Йоркском музее искусств Метрополитен в рамках выставки под названием «Искусство промежутка». Экспозиция включала 140 дизайнерских образов, ознаменовав 40 лет творчества, которые покорили индустрию моды и бросили вызов традиционным концепциям красоты. Имея за плечами такую карьеру, вполне естественно, что Кавакубо продолжает смотреть в будущее со своей последней коллекцией.

Карл Лагерфельд – еще один дизайнер, обратившийся в своем творчестве к грядущему. «Мода посвящена эволюции мира», – сказал креативный директор Chanel в видеообращении на канале YouTube по случаю выхода коллекции осень-зима 2017/18, хотя, пожалуй, в этом случае уместнее было бы сказать, что мода посвящена эволюции вселенной. В рамках футуристического шоу-показа Chanel в Grand Palais Лагерфельд представил свое видение космических путешествий и идеальный гардероб межзвездного странника: байкерские кожаные куртки серебристого цвета в сочетании со сверкающими сапогами до колена, аксессуары в виде голографических накидок, перчатки без пальцев, а также футболки и платья, украшенные изображениями астронавтов – коллекция поистине внеземная. У остальных дизайнеров отсылки были более сдержанны: украшения на платьях без рукавов, напоминали галактики солнечной системы, видимые через телескоп; а высокий и широкий воротник – космический

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корабль. Сумки в форме планет и ракет также дополнили внеземную атмосферу этих астрономических образов. Задать тон для нового сезона Лагерфельд решил, запустив космический шаттл под саундтрек из документальной ленты Элтона Джона «Человек-ракета». Астронавты побывали на Луне, а космические аппараты приземлялись на Марсе, так что, возможно, уже скоро мы увидим, как армия сирен в серебряных костюмах взмоет на космическом корабле Chanel высоко в небо. Аромат Mugler Alien («Чужой») имеет толпы поклонников по всему миру, поэтому бренду не чужда тема внеземного. В этом сезоне мини-платья дизайнера Девида Кома, а также его щедрое использование сверкающих тканей серебристого и салатового оттенков отлично бы смотрелись на просторах далекойдалекой галактики. Черные кожаные тренчи с заостренными плечами и прозрачные топы, усеянные звездами, идеально подойдут для космических готов, в то время как декорации в виде молний на топах и украшенные комбинезоны придутся в пору любителям ярких вечерних нарядов. Желтый топ с боковыми вырезами и брошью в виде звезды – чистая элегантность «Звездного Пути» и прекрасная дань этой культовой картине, продолжение которой выйдет на экраны этой осенью. Бренд Paco Rabanne представил на Парижской неделе моды еще более оригинальное видение футуристической моды: драпированные топы на одно плечо и асимметричные юбки-миди из серебряной и золотистой ткани, напоминающей кольчугу, сочетались с отполированными серебристыми туфлями. Серые мини-платья без бретелек поверх брюк напоминали униформу будущего, а сверкающие штаны с тонкими кофтами с длинным рукавом имели легкий оттенок стиля спорт-люкс. Завершали коллекцию платья, похожие на доспехи, которые бы идеально смотрелись в одном из фантастических блокбастеров следующего лета. Чтобы с головой окунуться в галактическую фантазию в этом сезоне, внимательно изучите подиумные коллекции наиболее креативных брендов.

46: Home Chic Home Дом, шикарный дом В Париже любовь к роскоши простирается на все аспекты жизни, включая домашнюю утварь. Руайрид Притчард отыскал самые интересные бренды Мировая столица моды Париж является родиной знаменитых дизайнерских домов, включая Chanel, Dior и Louis Vuitton. Однако, несмотря на то, что мода занимает центральное место в индустрии роскоши, у нее есть значительные конкуренты. Париж приютил немало французских и международных брендов, выпускающих роскошные предметы интерьера: от мебели и постельного белья до столовых приборов и кухонной утвари, – и все это призвано привнести в дом неповторимую атмосферу роскоши. D Porthault – один из лучших производителей изысканного постельного белья в Европе. Его история началась с бутика нижнего белья, открытого парижанином Даниелем Портхолтом в начале 20 века, после чего в 1920 году вектор решено было изменить в направлении постельных принадлежностей. В то время, когда нормой считался белый цвет, Портхолт представил в Париже белье с узорами и в цвете, подражая импрессионистам, что вызвало абсолютный восторг публики. Сегодня бренд входит в число наиболее успешных французских текстильных компаний с магазинами по всему миру, включая парижскую улицу rue du Boccador. В этом сезоне была представлена новая коллекция Haute Couture Linen, созданная в духе фирменных традиций бренда. На белье можно встретить флористические сюжеты в стиле импрессионизма, ар-деко, графики, а также элементы вышивки, выполненные в безупречных стандартах, прославивших компанию. Frette – еще один специалист в сфере домашнего текстиля, основанный в 1860 году в Гренобле, и спустя пять лет переехавший в Италию. Талантливые мастера бренда, базирующегося на севере Италии, используют для создания белья лучшие волокна. Последнюю коллекцию Frette можно

увидеть собственными глазами в бутике на rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré: Golden Deco вдохновлена искусством 20 века, эпохой Великого Гэтсби и изобилием времен ар-деко. éекстуры и украшения в стиле архитектуры ар-деко, геометрических фигур и абстрактной графики, а также элементы цветочных мотивов и вышивка жемчугом – все это напоминает дух и пленительность 1920-х годов, привнося атмосферу роскоши прошлого века в современную спальню. Париж стал родным домом для брендов и дизайнеров, предлагающих роскошные вещи на каждый день. Французский бренд стеклянных изделий Lalique был основан ювелиром и стеклодувом Рене Лаликом в 1887 году. Спустя несколько лет работы исключительно с ювелирными изделиями, Лалик начал эксперименты со стеклянной посудой и вскоре стал ведущим производителем в Европе. На сегодняшний день бренд имеет три бутика в Париже, и в этом году он провел новую коллаборацию с архитектором и дизайнером Пьер-Ив Рошоном. В результате была выпущена коллекция мебели Signature, сочетающая фирменные традиции Lalique и

декора. К 1900 году, когда фирменные шедевры в стиле модерн покорили Всемирную выставку в Париже, имя бренда было на слуху у всех. Сегодня коллекции Christofle, состоящие из столовых приборов, посуды и декоративных изделий из серебра, признаны одними из лучших в мире, а познакомиться с ними можно в одном из пяти бутиков бренда в Париже. Одной из последних новинок в коллекции Christofle стал набор из 24 приборов в изящном футляре в форме яйца. Доступный в нескольких цветовых вариантах, включая серебряный, розово-золотой и желто-золотой, этот набор еще раз доказывает, что в Париже даже обычная ложка может быть предметом роскоши. 52: Weapons Of Seduction Оружие массового обольщения Говорят, что в любви, как на войне, все средства хороши, однако редко бывает, чтобы два этих понятия имели где-то такую же тесную связь, как в старинном парижском бренде Fauré Le Page, – рассказывает Ханна Льюис уникальный подход Рошона к современной роскоши. «Мне всегда импонировал талант и творчество Рене Лалика, – говорит Рошон. – Ему всегда удавалось идеально сочетать чистоту стекла и точность металла». Именно комбинация стекла и металла стала характерной чертой его новой коллекции. Как заявил Рошон: «Я хотел создать историю, в которой металл облагораживает прозрачность, чистоту и блеск хрусталя». Коллекция, включившая комод с декоративным листом из золота и хрусталя, зеркальный стол из белого стекла и хрусталя и хрустальный туалетный столик с настенным светильником из хрусталя и яркого никеля, воплотила безупречное внимание Lalique к деталям стеклянного декора и стиля ар-деко в современной интерпретации Рошона. Марка Christofle была основана ювелиром Чарльзом Кристофле в 1830 году и вскоре расширила свой ассортимент, включив в него гальванизированные предметы домашнего globalblue.ru

В мире, где практически все приобретается с помощью одного нажатия кнопки, покупки, доступные только в магазине, несут с собой определенный шарм. Онлайн-шоппинг никогда не сможет заменить традиционную прогулку по магазинам, все дело – в личных ощущениях; процесс шоппинга в некоторых бутиках сам по себе может быть весьма увлекательным занятием. В случае с брендом Fauré Le Page, чьи кожаные аксессуары продаются лишь в двух городах планеты, предлагает новый уровень эксклюзивности. Эта марка известна многим знатокам мира моды, а глядя на ее культовые изделия коллекционеры и инсайдеры модной индустрии сворачиают шеи. Компания Fauré Le Page возникла ровно 300 лет назад в 1717 году во время правления короля Франции Людовика XV. Эта оружейная мастерская пользовалась популярностью у королей и принцев и поставляла оружие и аксессуары великим мира сего, а многие из ее творений сейчас входят в состав музейных коллекций по всему миру. За многолетнюю историю эту мастерскую не раз упоминали французские писатели: от Франсуа-Рене де Шатобриана до Оноре де éальзака и

Александра Дюма. В 1789 году и в 1830 году Fauré Le Page вооружала революционные движения Франции, демонстрируя независимый дух, который продолжает характеризовать компанию и сегодня. «Наш бренд всегда мог делать смелый выбор, – поясняет художественный директор Августин де éуффевен. – Смелость – это часть фирменного кредо, вошедшего в анналы французской истории, когда мастерская приняла решение выдавать оружие революционным силам». Очередным смелым шагом стало намерение бренда сделать вклад в мир женских сумок и аксессуаров. И хотя это нельзя было назвать прецедентом (Fauré Le Page уже была ведущим производителем охотничьих аксессуаров – патронташей, ранцев и портфелей), событие тем не менее имело большое значение для бренда, расширив его аудиторию. Великолепный бутик бренда открылся на rue Cambon в 2012, затем появился отдел в универмаге Galeries Lafayette и два бутика в Токио. Это единственные представительства Fauré Le Page. В духе своей истории Fauré Le Page видит роскошные аксессуары как «оружие

обольщения», ведь на их создание ушло столько же мастерства и заботы, сколько и на каждое изделие фирмы за последние 300 лет. Креативная команда бренда включает профессионалов самых разных областей: от архитекторов и кожевников до плотников и шелкографов. Визитной карточкой марки является узор в виде чешуи, напоминающий о традиционном фирменном знаке оружейных мастеров. Все материалы создаются вручную, после чего на них наносятся узоры методом трафаретной печати, как в случае с шелком. Затем их натирают воском и наносят текстуру, придавая глянцевый вид и упругость, но в то же время мягкость и эластичность. Изделия доступны только в шести расцветках, каждая из которых отражает определенный аспект бренда: от металлического, как у ружейного ствола до синего в честь Парижа. «Сумка Daily Battle с чешуйчатым узором быстро стала хитом», – говорит де Буффевен. Еще одна популярная среди коллекционеров модель сумки – чуть меньше размером. Если немного копнуть в сети интернет, то можно обнаружить немало блогов и форумов, посвященных серии сумок Fauré Le Page. По словам Буффевена, ключевым секретом успеха бренда является его вековая история. «Наша коллекция роскошных сумок, украшенных культовым чешуйчатым мотивом, несет в себе отпечаток славного прошлого компании, неразрывно связанного с непреходящей классикой современности», – поясняет он. Мотив с изображением пистолета стал еще одним символом женской коллекции, продолжив метафору оружия любви. «Оставаясь верным своему девизу, вооруженный для обольщения бренд Fauré Le Page предлагает достойное оружие для того, чтобы завоевать любое сердце», – говорит Буффевен. Кожаная сумка Calibre 21 имела огромный успех среди покупателей. Ее можно носить несколькими способами, а снаружи у нее есть небольшой карман в форме пистолета. Также модель доступна в более крупном размере под названием Calibre 27. Отстегивающийся карман в форме пистолета также быстро стал фаворитом среди поклонников по всему миру. Этот сезон особенно интересен для globalblue.ru

бренда, говорит де Буффен. Компания не только собирается представить серию сумок в новой цветовой гамме и линию солнцезащитных очков, но и выпустит книгу, посвященную своей 300-летней истории, а также проведет ряд мероприятий и выставок в своих магазинах. «У нас множество новых проектов. Я не знаю, какой из них выйдет первым… пусть это будет сюрпризом. Так интереснее». В конце концов, атмосфера тайны и эксклюзивности всегда была частью очарования Fauré Le Page. 76: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с Tax Free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в более чем 300 000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки Tax Free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям. 1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших офисов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум 175.01 евро и сэкономьте в среднем 12% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму.

ШОППИНГ С TAX FREE – НАМНОГО ВЫГОДНЕЕ Сэкономьте до 19%, совершая покупки с Tax Free Подробности на globalblue.ru

‫‪88‬‬

‫المواقع المز ّودة الوحيدة البتكارات ‪.Fauré Le Page‬‬ ‫وحفاظا ً على نمطها التاريخي‪ ،‬ترى ‪Fauré Le Page‬‬

‫كل قطعة العناية‬ ‫أكسسواراتها الفاخرة كـ "أسلحة ِغوى" وتمنح ّ‬ ‫والمهارة نفسها التي اعتمدتها طوال القرون الثالثة‪ .‬يتألّف الفريق‬ ‫مختصين بالجلد‬ ‫االبتكاري اليوم من مهندسين معمارييّن وحرفيّين‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫ون ّجارين وف ّناني طباعة حريريّة‪ .‬من مميّزات العالمة القماش‬ ‫المنقوش بالحرافيش “‪ ،”écailles‬نسب ًة إلى ختم صانعي األسلحة‬ ‫التقليدي‪ .‬يُصنع هذا القماش يدويّاً قبل أن يُطبع باستخدام تقنيّة‬ ‫شبيهة بتلك المستخدمة على الحرير‪.‬ث ّم يُش ّمع ويُحبّب فيغدو‬ ‫ل ّماعاً ومرناً وفي الوقت عينه ناعم الملمس وطريّاً يتوافر بستّة‬ ‫كل يعكس ناحية مختلفة من العالمة‪ ،‬من الرمادي‬ ‫ألوان ال غير‪ّ ،‬‬ ‫النحاسي الخاص بأسطون البندقيّة إلى األزرق المستوحى من‬ ‫باريس‪.‬‬ ‫يقول ‪ Buffévent‬عن حقيبة التس ّوق التي تميّزت بها‬ ‫العالمة واكتسبت شهرة واسعة‪" :‬سرعان ما أصبحت حقيبة ‪Daily‬‬ ‫‪ Battle‬من قماش ‪ écailles‬من القطع التي ال ب ّد من شرائها‪ ".‬كما‬ ‫أ ّن حقيبة اليد من القماش نفسه هي من التصاميم المفضّ لة لدى‬ ‫هواة حقائب اليد‪ .‬من خالل ٍ‬ ‫بحث سريع على شبكة اإلنترنت‪،‬‬ ‫مخصصة لمجموعة ‪Fauré Le‬‬ ‫ومنصات ّ‬ ‫تجد عدّة مد ّونات ّ‬ ‫‪ Page‬ويرى ‪ Buffévent‬أ ّن تاريخ العالمة الفريد من نوعه هو‬

‫س ّر هذا النجاح‪ .‬يشرح قائالً‪" :‬تتمتّع مجموعة الحقائب الفاخرة‬ ‫لدينا‪ ،‬المزخرفة بالحرافيش الذائعة الصيت‪ٍ ،‬‬ ‫بماض عريق وحداثة‬ ‫خالدة‪".‬‬ ‫الخاصة‬ ‫أ ّما شكل المسدّس‪ ،‬فبات رمزا ً آخر يميّز المجموعة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫الحب‪ .‬يقول ‪" :Buffévent‬تلتزم‬ ‫بالنساء‪ ،‬ويك ّمل فكرة أسلحة ّ‬ ‫‪ Fauré Le Page‬بشعارها "مسلّحة لإلغواء" فتقدّم األسلحة‬ ‫الالزمة لكسب أي قلب"‪ .‬حقّقت حقيبة اليد ‪( Calibre 21‬أي‬ ‫عيار ‪ )21‬نجاحاً باهرا ً وهي عبارة عن حقيبة جلديّة يمكن حملها‬ ‫بجيب أمامي على شكل مسدّس من كانفا‬ ‫بطرق عدّة‪ .‬تتميّز‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫‪ écailles‬وتتوافر بحجمٍ أكبر على سبيل ‪ .Calibre 27‬يمكن‬ ‫أي من الحقائب األكبر ويشكّل أحد المزايا‬ ‫تثبيت هذا الجيب على ّ‬ ‫المفضّ لة أبدا ً‪.‬‬ ‫خاص‪ ،‬مميّز‬ ‫يرى ‪ Buffévent‬أ ّن هذا الموسم ّ‬ ‫بشكل ّ‬ ‫بالنسبة إلى العالمة‪ .‬باإلضافة إلى إطالق لون جديد لقماش‬ ‫‪ écailles‬وخ ّط كامل من النظّارات‪ ،‬سيت ّم إصدار كتاب احتفاالً‬ ‫خاصة في المحالت‪.‬‬ ‫بسنواته الثالثمئة وستُقام مناسبات وعروض ّ‬ ‫"لدينا الكثير من المشاريع‪ ،‬لكن ال أعلم أيّهما سيُطلق أ ّوالً‪...‬‬ ‫فلنبقيها مفاجأة‪ ...‬لتزداد اإلثارة‪ ".‬ففي النهاية‪ ،‬الغموض‬ ‫واالستثنائيّة جزء من سحر ‪.Fauré Le Page‬‬ ‫‪When You Shop The World,‬‬ ‫‪Shop Tax Free :76‬‬

‫عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل‪ ،‬تس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة‬ ‫تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬خدمة التس ّوق من دون‬ ‫دفع الضريبة ‪ Tax Free‬لتدّخر المال لدى تس ّوقك في أكثر من‬ ‫‪ 300,000‬متجر في أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العالم‪.‬‬ ‫فل َم ال تنض ّم إلى الـ ‪ 26‬مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون‬ ‫كل سنة؟ ما‬ ‫دفع الضريبة من خالل غلوبل بلو ‪ّ Global Blue‬‬ ‫عليك إال أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو‬ ‫‪ Global Blue‬وتتبع خطواتنا السهلة‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .1‬تس ّوق‬ ‫الخاص‬ ‫أينما تس ّوقت‪ ،‬أطلب الحصول على طلب استرداد الضريبة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بغلوبل بلو ‪ Global Blue‬وتذكّر أن تحتفظ باإليصاالت‪.‬‬ ‫‪ .2‬أطلب‬ ‫في طريق العودة إلى وطنك‪ ،‬أقصد مكتب الجمارك عند نقطة‬ ‫المغادرة لتتم المصادقة على إيصاالتك قبل قبض االسترداد من‬ ‫الخاصة بنا‪.‬‬ ‫أحد مكاتب االسترداد‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫لالت ّصال‪:‬‬

‫‪taxfree@globalblue.com‬‬ ‫‪+421 232 111 111‬‬ ‫أنفق ح ّدا ً أدنى قدره ‪ 175.01‬يورو وادّخر حتّى ‪ 12%‬من ثمن‬

‫مشترياتك‪ .‬يشمل مبلغ االسترداد النهائي الذي ستحصل عليه‬ ‫مجموع الضريبة على القيمة المضافة ناقص رسم إداري‪ .‬في‬ ‫بعض المطارات‪ ،‬يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي على كل طلب استرداد‬ ‫ضريبة في حال رغبت بالحصول على استرداد فوري نقدي‪.‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫لدى العالمة حاليّاً ثالث محالت في باريس وستقوم هذه‬ ‫السنة بعملٍ مشترك مع المص ّمم الداخلي والمهندس المعماري‬ ‫‪ .Pierre-Yves Rochon‬إنّها مجموعة األثاث ‪Signature‬‬ ‫التي تدمج تقاليد الزجاجيّات لدى ‪ Lalique‬بأسلوب ‪Rochon‬‬ ‫الفريد من نوعه من حيث الفخامة العصريّة‪ .‬يقول ‪Rochon‬‬ ‫في هذا الصدد‪" :‬لطالما لفتني فكر ‪ Lalique‬الخالق وموهبته‪.‬‬ ‫فبرهافته ومهارته‪ ،‬تمكّن من دمج صفاء الزجاج بدقّة المعدن‪".‬‬ ‫تزاوج الزجاج والمعدن هو ما يميّز هذه المجموعة‬ ‫الجديدة‪ .‬يشرح ‪ Rochon‬قائالً‪" :‬أردت ابتكار شيء جديد يرتقي‬ ‫فيه المعدن إلى مصافي شفافيّة البلّور ونقاوته ولمعانه‪ ".‬تتألّف‬ ‫المجموعة من خزانة من الكريستال مطلية بأوراق الذهب‬ ‫وطاولة من الكريستال والزجاج األبيض مز ّودة بمرايا ومنضدة‬ ‫من الرخام والكريستال ومصابيح للجدران من الكريستال والنكل‬ ‫الل ّماع‪ .‬وبذلك‪ ،‬تمزج المجموعة بين اهتمام ‪ Lalique‬الدقيق‬ ‫للتفاصيل في زخرفة الزجاج وأسلوب ‪ Rochon‬الحديث في‬ ‫مجال األرت ديكو‪.‬‬ ‫أٍّ ّسس صائغ المجوهرات ‪ Charles Christofle‬عالمة‬ ‫ووسع نطاقها في ما بعد لتشمل قطع‬ ‫‪ Christofle‬سنة ‪ّ 1830‬‬

‫ديكور منزليّة مطليّة بالكهرباء‪ .‬وبحلول سنة ‪ ،1900‬عندما‬ ‫شكّلت ابتكاراتها في مجال األرت نوفو إحدى أبرز القطع في‬ ‫المعرض العالمي في باريس ذلك العام‪ ،‬لمع أسمها بوضوح‪.‬‬ ‫مجموعات ‪ Christofle‬هي من بين األفخر في العالم اليوم‬ ‫وتشمل أدوات الطعام والمائدة والزجاجيّات والفضيّات للزينة‬ ‫وتجدها في محالتها المستقلّة الخمسة في باريس‪ .‬من أحدث‬ ‫ابتكارات العالمة مجموعة ‪ Mood‬وهي عبارة عن ‪ 24‬أداة‬ ‫طعام موضّ بة في علبة أنيقة على شكل بيضة تضفي بح ّد ذاتها‬ ‫المزيد من الفخامة إلى المائدة‪ .‬تتوافر باللّون الفضّ ي والذهب‬ ‫الزهري والذهبي األصفر وهي خير دليل على أنّه في باريس‪،‬‬ ‫حتّى الملعقة المتواضعة قادرة أن تغدو قطعة فاخرة‪.‬‬ ‫‪Weapons Of Seduction :52‬‬

‫أسلحة ال ِغوى‬

‫كل شيء مباح‪ ،‬لكن نادرا ً ما يرتبط‬ ‫الحب والحرب ّ‬ ‫يُقال في ّ‬ ‫المفهومان ببعضهما البعض كما هو الحال لدى العالمة الباريسيّة‬ ‫التاريخيّة ‪ ،Fauré Le Page‬تقرير ‪Hannah Lewis‬‬ ‫في عالمٍ يمكن شراء معظم األشياء فيه بنقرة زر‪ ،‬يبقى لعمليّة‬ ‫خاصة‪ .‬يوفّر التس ّوق‬ ‫الشراء التي ال تت ّم إال في المتجر‪ ،‬نكهة ّ‬ ‫الفعلي تجربة ملموسة وشخصيّة على خالف التس ّوق عبر المواقع‬ ‫المحل المناسب أن يجعل التجربة مميّزة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫اإللكترونيّة؛ ومن شأن‬ ‫بح ّد ذاتها‪ .‬تتمتّع عالمة تجاريّة على غرار ‪،Fauré Le Page‬‬ ‫يمكن شراء منتجاتها وأكسسواراتها الجلديّة الجميلة في مدينتين‬ ‫وحيدتين حول العالم‪ ،‬بمستوى جديد من االستثنائيّة‪ .‬إنّها عالمة‬ ‫جديرة بأصحاب المعرفة‪ ،‬تقدّم ابتكارات مميّزة تلفت انتباه هواة‬ ‫التجميع ومحبّي الموضة على ح ّد سواء‪.‬‬ ‫أبصرت عالمة ‪ Fauré Le Page‬النور منذ ‪ 300‬سنة في‬ ‫العام ‪ 1717‬وذلك في بداية عهد ملك فرنسا ‪.Louis XV‬‬ ‫كانت المص ّنع األساسي لألسلحة لدى الملوك واألمراء وز ّودت‬ ‫أرباب البالط األوروبي باألسلحة‪ ،‬كما تجد الكثير من ابتكاراتها‬ ‫التاريخيّة ضمن مجموعات متاحف شهيرة حول العالم‪ .‬وعلى م ّر‬ ‫السنين‪ ،‬ذُكرت العالمة في أعمال أشهر الكتّاب في فرنسا ومنهم‬ ‫‪ FranÇois-René de Chateaubriand‬و‪Honoré de‬‬ ‫‪ Balzac‬و‪.Alexandre Dumas‬‬ ‫سنة ‪ 1789‬والحقا ً في العام ‪ ،1830‬سلّحت ‪Fauré Le‬‬ ‫‪ Page‬الق ّوات الثوريّة في فرنسا فقدّمت أسلوباً فريدا ً من نوعه ما‬ ‫زال يميّز العالمة حتّى يومنا هذا‪ .‬يشرح المدير الف ّني ‪Augustin‬‬ ‫‪ de Buffévent‬قائالً‪" :‬لطالما كان الدار قادرا ً على اتّخاذ قرارات‬ ‫جريئة‪ .‬فالجرأة جزء ال يتج ّزأ من هذا الدار الذي دخل التاريخ‬ ‫الفرنسي عندما وزّع أسلحة على الق ّوات الثوريّة ببسالة‪".‬‬ ‫من الخيارات الجريئة التي اتّخذتها العالمة مؤ ّخرا ً‪ ،‬دخولها‬ ‫عالم حقائب اليد واألكسسوارات النسائيّة‪ .‬تجدر اإلشارة إلى أنّه‬ ‫بالرغم من عمل ‪ Fauré Le Page‬سابقاً في هذا اإلطار‪ ،‬إذ كانت‬ ‫مص ّنعة بارزة للوازم الصيد من صناديق للخرطوش إلى حقائب‬ ‫كبيرة وأخرى تُحمل على الكتف وغيرها‪ ،‬اعتُبرت تجربة جديدة‬ ‫مثيرة لالهتمام قدّمت العالمة إلى شريحة أوسع من الناس‪ .‬افتُتح‬ ‫محلّها الرائع في شارع ‪ Cambon‬سنة ‪ 2012‬وتبعته مساحة‬ ‫في ‪ Galeries Lafayette‬ومحلّين في طوكيو‪ .‬وما زالت هذه‬

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‫المرصعة‬ ‫الجلديّة السوداء المدبّبة األكتاف والقمصان الشفّافة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بالنجوم مثاليّة لمحبّي الفضاء‪ ،‬في حين تجتزئ أشكال الصواعق‬ ‫أقساماً من القمصان واألوفاروالت المزخرفة فتجذب الّذين‬ ‫ويجسد قميص‬ ‫يفضّ لون بعض األلوان في إطالالتهم المسائيّة‪.‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫أصفر مكشوف الجوانب مز ّود بدبّوس على شكل نجمة‪ ،‬أناقة‬ ‫‪ Star Trek‬مشيرا ً بوضوح إلى المسلسل التلفزيوني الذي سيعود‬ ‫مجدّدا ً إلى شاشاتنا هذا الخريف‪.‬‬ ‫أ ّما ‪ ،Paco Rabanne‬فقدّمت رؤية أكثر سالسة عن األزياء‬ ‫المستقبليّة في أسبوع باريس للموضة وذلك من خالل قمصان‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫بكتف واحد وتنانير متوسط الطول غير متوازية األطراف من‬ ‫منسقة مع أحذية فضيّة‬ ‫القماش على هيئة زر ٍد فضّ ي أو ذهبي ّ‬ ‫ب ّراقة‪ .‬وأوحت الفساتين القصيرة الرماديّة من دون أكمام التي‬ ‫الزي الفضائي للجيل‬ ‫ارتدها العارضات فوق سراويل‪ ،‬بأنّها ستكون ّ‬ ‫المنسقة مع كنزات‬ ‫القادم‪ ،‬في حين اقترنت السراويل الب ّراقة ّ‬ ‫طويلة األكمام بنفحة من الفخامة الرياضيّة‪ .‬أ ّما الفساتين األشبه‬ ‫بدروع والمناسبة للفيلم الخيالي الذي سيخطف األضواء هذا‬ ‫حق‪.‬‬ ‫الصيف‪ ،‬فشكّلت ختام مجموعة مستوحاة عن ّ‬ ‫إلشباع أهواءك المتعلّقة بالفضاء هذا الخريف‪/‬الشتاء‪ ،‬ما‬ ‫لك إال مجموعات بعض العالمات التجاريّة األوسع خياالً في مجال‬ ‫األزياء‪.‬‬ ‫‪Home Chic Home :46‬‬

‫المنزل األنيق‬

‫تطال الفخامة في باريس كافّة نواحي الحياة ومن ضمنها اللّوازم‬ ‫المنزليّة‪ .‬يكشف ‪ Ruairidh Pritchard‬عن أبرز األسماء في‬ ‫هذا المجال‬

‫‪PHOTO: LUC BOEGLY‬‬

‫باعتبارها إحدى عواصم األزياء في العالم‪ ،‬تض ّم باريس دور أزياء‬ ‫شهيرة على سبيل ‪ Chanel‬و‪ Dior‬و‪ .Louis Vuitton‬لكن‬ ‫على الرغم من تربّع األزياء على العرش‪ ،‬ليست الناحية الوحيدة‬ ‫في الحياة الجديرة بالفخامة‪ .‬تض ّم باريس كذلك عالمات تجاريّة‬ ‫مختصة بلوازم المنزل وتقدّم أفخر األثاث‬ ‫فرنسيّة وعالميّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫والبياضات والفضيّات والديكور الداخلي في العالم‪ ،‬فتحمل‬ ‫الشعور بالفخامة إلى المنزل‪.‬‬ ‫‪ D Porthault‬هي إحدى أفخر شركات البياضات في‬ ‫أسسه الباريسي ‪Daniel‬‬ ‫فرنسا‪ .‬انبثقت من ّ‬ ‫محل مالبس داخليّة ّ‬ ‫‪ Porthault‬في مطلع القرن العشرين قبل أن ينصرف إلى‬ ‫البياضات المنزليّة سنة ‪ .1920‬ففي الوقت الذي كانت المالءات‬ ‫البيضاء سائدة‪ ،‬ع ّرف ‪ Porthault‬باريس إلى بياضات األس ّرة‬ ‫المنقوشة والمل ّونة مستلهماً من ف ّنانين إنطباعيّين‪ ،‬فحقّقت‬ ‫نجاحاً باهرا ً‪.‬‬ ‫ما زالت العالمة اليوم من أشهر الشركات الفرنسيّة الناجحة‬ ‫المختصة بالبياضات‪ ،‬لديها متاجر حول العالم ومن ضمنها‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫واحد في شارع ‪ Boccador‬في باريس‪ .‬وستُطلق هذا الموسم‬ ‫المؤسس‪.‬‬ ‫مجموعة ‪ Haute Couture Linen‬الملتزمة بأسلوب‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تتّسم البياضات برسومات أزهار مستوحاة من الف ّن اإلنطباعي‬ ‫وبنقوش أرت ديكو كما برسومات غرافيكيّة بارزة وأعمال تطريز‬ ‫دقيقة‪ ،‬كلّها منجزة بأعلى المعايير التي تشتهر بها العالمة‪.‬‬

‫المختصة بالبياضات‪ Frette ،‬التي‬ ‫من األسماء األخرى‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫تأسست في ‪ Grenoble‬سنة ‪ 1860‬قبل االنتقال إلى إيطاليا‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫بعد خمس سنوات‪ .‬يعمل حرفيّو العالمة الماهرون شمال إيطاليا‬ ‫وينتجون كافّة البياضات من أفخر األنسجة‪ .‬تجد أحدث مجموعة‬ ‫لها "‪ "Golden Deco‬في محلّها في شارع ‪Faubourg Saint-‬‬ ‫ِ‬ ‫استوحيَت من الطابع الف ّني الذي ساد في النصف‬ ‫‪.Honoré‬‬ ‫األ ّول من القرن العشرين وهو عصر البذخ ورفاه حقبة األرت‬ ‫ديكو‪ .‬تجدر اإلشارة إلى أنّه من خالل أقمشة وزخرفات تُعيد إلى‬ ‫الذاكرة ف ّن األرت ديكو المعماري وأشكال هندسيّة ورسومات‬ ‫غرافيكيّة باإلضافة إلى نترات من األزهار والآللئ المط ّرزة‪ ،‬تذكّرنا‬ ‫المجموعة بأجواء العشرينات وسحرها فتحمل تلك الحقبة إلى‬ ‫غرف النوم العصريّة‪.‬‬ ‫باريس حاضنة للعالمات التجاريّة والحرفيّين الذين يبتكرون‬ ‫منتجات قادرة على تحويل حتّى أغراض االستخدام اليومي إلى‬ ‫قطعٍ فاخرة‪ .‬سنة ‪ّ ،1887‬أسس صائغ الذهب وصانع الزجاج‬ ‫المختصة بالزجاجيّات‬ ‫‪ René Lalique‬العالمة الفرنسيّة‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫‪ .Lalique‬بعد سنوات عديدة من التركيز على المجوهرات‬ ‫الفاخرة دون غيرها‪ ،‬بدأت العالمة اختبار صناعة الزجاجيّات وما‬ ‫لبثت أن أصبحت من أبرز صانعي الزجاج في أوروبا‪.‬‬ ‫‪globalblue.com‬‬

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‫ترجمة باللغة العربيّة‬ ‫‪Flash Forward :38‬‬

‫السفر إلى المستقبل‬

‫من إطالالت قائمة على الخيال العلمي إلى أساليب من عصر‬ ‫الفضاء‪ ،‬تمحور أسبوع باريس للموضة حول المستقبل‪ ،‬تقرير‬ ‫‪Sally McIlhone‬‬

‫لمواسم عدّة‪ ،‬تركّزت األنظار في مجال األزياء على الماضي‪.‬‬ ‫فشهد موسم ربيع‪/‬صيف ‪ 2017‬عودة سحر الثمانينات‬ ‫لدى ‪ Saint Laurent‬وأناقة األربعينات لدى ‪Bottega‬‬ ‫‪ Veneta‬وبدالت السبعينات لدى ‪ .Gucci‬لكن لخريف‪/‬شتاء‬ ‫كل التفكير على المستقبل‪ .‬نظر‬ ‫‪ ،2017/2018‬تركّز التفكير ّ‬ ‫المص ّممون إلى المستقبل آخذين بعين االعتبار ما قد يطرأ من‬ ‫خالل أمور عدّة‪ ،‬فاستفاضوا في استخدام األلوان الل ّماعة وأشاروا‬ ‫إلى عالم السفر عبر الفضاء وقدّموا فساتين قلبت مفاهيم‬

‫األنوثة رأساً على عقب‪ .‬بالتالي تولّد ج ّو من اإلثارة والدراما‪.‬‬ ‫في عرض أزياء ‪ Comme des GarÇons‬لخريف‪/‬شتاء‬ ‫‪ ،2017/2018‬نظر المص ّمم ‪ Rei Kawakubo‬إلى "مستقبل‬ ‫اإلطاللة" من خالل مجموعة من الفساتين الواسعة الفضفاضة‬ ‫المصنوعة من مواد تذكّرنا بأمور مختلفة‪ ،‬من األكياس الورقيّة‬ ‫البنيّة اللّون إلى ألواح العزل المتعدّدة األلوان وطابات الديسكو‬ ‫الفضيّة‪ّ .‬لف القماش عارضات األزياء وبدا كأنّه يُبعد المالبس‬ ‫عن الجسم فيستحيل لوحة من الكانفا لهذه األعمال الفنيّة‬ ‫الفريدة من نوعها‪ .‬من أبرز اإلطالالت التي لفتت األنظار فستان‬ ‫منتفخ من الجلد‪ ،‬يجمع بين الكشكش والزخرفة بالترقيع وفستان‬ ‫ممصات األخطبوط‪ .‬ليسا عمليّين‬ ‫أبيض ُمزنّر مكس ّو بما يشبه ّ‬ ‫بالطبع‪ ،‬لك ّنهما يع ّوضان عن ذلك باالبتكار‪ .‬وال عجب أن ُم ِنحت‬ ‫‪ Kawakubo‬مساح ًة في متحف ‪New York Metropolitan‬‬ ‫‪ Museum of Art‬هذه السنة لتقيم معرضا ً بعنوان ‪Art of‬‬ ‫‪ .the In-Between‬تض ّمن ما يزيد عن ‪ 140‬تصميماً خالقاً‬ ‫للمص ّممة مش ّكالً حصيلة أربعة عقود من العمل المخالف‬ ‫لقواعد األزياء ومفاهيم الجمال التقليديّة‪ .‬وفي مهن ٍة كهذة‬ ‫متخطّية للحدود‪ ،‬ال عجب أن تستمر ‪ Kawakubo‬بالنظر إلى‬ ‫المستقبل في مجموعتها األخيرة‪.‬‬ ‫من المص ّممين اآلخرين الذين لديهم رؤية عن العالم‬ ‫المستقبلي القريب‪ ،‬المص ّمم ‪ .Karl Lagerfeld‬يقول المدير‬ ‫االبتكاري لعالمة ‪" :Chanel‬األزياء هي صورة عن تط ّور‬ ‫العالم" وذلك في شريط مص ّور حول مجموعة خريف‪/‬شتاء‬ ‫الخاصة بالعالمة‪ ،‬لكن ربّما‬ ‫‪ 2017/2018‬لقناة ‪YouTube‬‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫من ّ‬ ‫األدق أن نقول في هذا الحال إ ّن األزياء هي صورة عن‬ ‫تط ّور الكون‪ .‬في عرض ‪ Chanel‬المستوحى من الخيال العلمي‬ ‫الخاصة بالسفر‬ ‫في ‪ ،Grand Palais‬قدّم ‪ Lagerfeld‬رؤيته‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫عبر الفضاء وبالمالبس المثاليّة للمسافر بين المج ّرات‪ .‬تشمل‬ ‫المجموعة سترات ‪ biker‬من الجلد الفضّ ي وقماش ‪shearling‬‬ ‫منسقة مع جزم ل ّماعة عالية الساق إلى ح ّد الركبة وأكسسوارات‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫على سبيل أوشحة هولوغرافيّة وقفّازات مزخرفة من دون‬ ‫أصابع وتي شرتس وفساتين وقطعاً مزيّنة بنقوش ر ّواد الفضاء‪،‬‬ ‫حق‪.‬‬ ‫فتستحيل مجموعة من‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫كوكب آخر عن ّ‬ ‫ويُشار إلى الفضاء بطرقٍ أكثر عفويّة في قطعٍ أخرى‪ :‬فتطرأ‬ ‫على بالنا مج ّرات نظامنا الشمسي كما تبدو في التلسكوب من‬ ‫متوسط الطول من دون‬ ‫خالل نترة من الزخرفة على فستان ّ‬ ‫أكمام؛ وتتّخذ ياقة فستان قصير عالية وعريضة شكلها من مركبة‬ ‫فضائيّة‪ .‬في حين تضفي حقائب اليد على شكل كواكب وصواريخ‬ ‫مصغّرة لّمسة أثيريّة مثاليّة إلى هذه اإلطالالت الفضائيّة‪ .‬واختُتم‬ ‫العرض بظهور مركبة فضائيّة انطلقت على أنغام أغنية ‪Rocket‬‬ ‫‪ Man‬للف ّنان ‪ Elton John‬وبذلك حدّد ‪ Lagerfeld‬موضة‬ ‫الموسم الجديد‪ ،‬كما فعل عشرات الم ّرات السابقة‪ .‬بغزو ر ّواد‬ ‫الفضاء سطح القمر وهبوط المركبات الفضائيّة على الم ّريخ‪ ،‬بات‬ ‫من ال ُمرتقب في القريب العاجل أن يقود حش ٌد من الفاتنات‬ ‫مركبة ‪ Chanel‬الفضائيّة إلى العالم الخارجي‪.‬‬ ‫كل بقاع الدنيا‪،‬‬ ‫لعطر ‪ Alien‬من ‪ Mugler‬معجبين في ّ‬ ‫لذا ليست العالمة بالغريبة في العالم الخارجي أيضاً‪ .‬ص ّمم‬ ‫‪ David Koma‬هذا الموسم فساتين قصيرة وأفرط في‬ ‫استخدام األقمشة الل ّماعة الفضيّة والخضراء اللّون فبدت في‬ ‫مكانها المناسب في مج ّرة بعيدة كل البعد عن األرض‪ .‬المعاطف‬

SOUVEN I R

IN THE GROOVE This season the iconic Chloé Faye bag gets an update that stays true to the brand’s bohemian aesthetic. Patchwork suede and a demure palette of mustard, burgundy and olive conjure up

images of free-spirited youth and days gone by. Chloé’s autumn/winter 2017/18 collection is inspired by the starlets of the early 1970s and the air of cool that went with them, and this bag – a perfect daytime piece – is crying out for flared blue jeans, platform shoes and a fabulous coat. This collection marks the

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end of creative director Clare Waight Keller’s six-year tenure at the brand, so what better time to add a slice of Chloé history to your collection? lt Chloé Faye bag, €1,950, Chloé, 253 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5504 0330, chloe.com FOR M A P GO TO PAGE 70

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THE PARIS ADDRESS FOR WATCHES

12, B OULEVARD DES CAPUCINES â&#x20AC;&#x201C; PARIS 9 E BUCHERER.COM