PARIS | 巴黎 | ПАРИЖ | باريس
PARIS Luxury Edition Autumn/Winter 2019/20
EXPLORE PARIS: discover the unmissable sights and stores in this vibrant fashion capital
EDITOR’S LETTER Essential Info For the very latest information, scan the QR code on this page to head straight to our website, globalblue.com, and find everything you need to navigate the best shopping destinations on earth. For the ultimate travel companion, be sure to download the SHOP TAX FREE app – calculating how much you can save by shopping tax free has never been easier.
Welcome to Paris
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SALLY McILHONE
@GlobalBlue
ILLUSTRATION: PETRA ERIKSSON
Whether you are travelling for business or pleasure, we can help you discover the very best of this cosmopolitan European capital. Paris has much to offer, as you’ll discover in our guide on page 37. Don’t miss our feature on Paris Fashion Week Men’s (page 26), our profile of the best places in the city to enjoy natural wine (page 32) and our spotlight on the latest must-have bag from Celine (page 16). SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save an average of 12% when shopping in France. This year we proudly celebrate a decade of publishing guides to the most prestigious destinations across the globe. Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top brands you’ll find in Paris.
SHOP FLOOR E D I TO R I A L
PUBLISHING
Editor Sally McIlhone
Publisher James Morris
Cover illustrator Giordano Poloni Contributor Farrah Moore Production editor Katie Muxworthy Senior fashion editor Lucinda Turner Senior news editor Ginger Rose Clark Features editor Rebecca Rhys-Evans Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Myers, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Acting picture editor Jo Walker Assistant picture editor Mónica R Goya Digital editor Kirsty Welsh Deputy digital editor Emily Scrivener Digital production editor Marina Nelson
Chinese editor Yuan Fang Chinese online editor Yangzi Liang Assistant Chinese online editor Luyue Zhang Chinese translator Chenguang Yi Russian editor Gary Ramazanov Arabic editor Haneen Malaeb Print Dane Consultancy
CONTRIBUTORS
G LO B A L B L U E FRANCE Country manager Yan Mortreux Marketing sales manager Cristina Sirinelli Marketing coordinator Quentin Dupont Global Blue France, Immeuble Kléber, 103-105 rue Anatole France, 92300 Levallois-Perret, France +33 (0)1 4161 5151
Founding editor Emma Cheevers Art director Fabio Gervasoni Senior designers Aaron Carline, Peter Darkin, Kiranjeet Kaur Midweight designer Nicole Williams Junior designers Tatjiana Antoniou, Thanuja Tharmaseelan Creative services manager Steve Brown Studio production assistants Chris Bigg, Joanna Dodge
GIORDANO POLONI Giordano Poloni’s graphic style makes him the ideal choice to illustrate this season’s cover of SHOP Paris Luxury. The image pays homage to the classic escalators at Le Bon Marché. Poloni has also worked with HSBC and Vice magazine. Discover SHOP Paris Luxury and our other editions at issuu.com/globalblue.
Associate digital product manager Aarti Patel Midlevel web developer Kurtis Justin Digital analyst Yunrong Kang Digital production assistant Linda Hau Marketing intern Anthony Sertelon
SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2019 Global Blue
ILLUSTRATION: GIORDANO POLONI
Chief executive officer Jacques Stern
GINGER ROSE CLARK Ginger Rose Clark, SHOP’s senior news editor, holds an MA in fashion journalism from the London College of Fashion.
CONTENTS SHOP selects a standout piece from Paris this season
PRODUCTS 12 Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories
FEATURE 26 MENSWEAR MOMENT
From world-renowned heritage brands to cutting-edge streetwear labels, Paris Fashion Week Men’s is taking centre stage in the fashion industry, as Rebecca Rhys-Evans reports
SHOP WINDOW 18
Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products
10 QUESTIONS... 22 …with Yvonne Léon, whose jewellery designs are among the most coveted in the city
HOW TO SHOP TAX FREE 50
TRANSLATIONS 52 中文翻 译 54 Русский Перевод 57 ترجمة باللّغة العرب ّية
A future classic to buy this season: Celine’s elegant 16 bag
NEWS 19
Designers Chloé Maillot and Guillaume Renaudin, from renowned brand Camille Fournet, share their Paris recommendations
The simple steps to saving money on your shopping
INVESTMENT PIECE 16
Don’t miss the newly refurbished Cartier store on the prestigious place Vendôme shopping street
OUR CITY 48
SOUVENIR RAISING THE BAR 58 The essential item to 32 bring home Offering environmental and health benefits, natural wine has become increasingly popular in Paris. Ginger Rose Clark picks out some of the best bars in the city to enjoy a glass or two
PARIS GUIDE 37 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Paris
Above (from left): Berluti; Balmain sweater, both autumn/winter 2019/20
PHOTO: (TOP) GORUNWAY.COM
CHECK OUT 10
MAXMARA.COM PARIS - 100 AV. PAUL DOUMER • 37 RUE DU FOUR • 31 AV. MONTAIGNE • 408-410 RUE ST. HONORÉ
CH EC K O U T
For several years now, the chunky trainer has been entering the echelons of high fashion. The trend began with the humble white tennis shoe and has grown beyond recognition, with dozens of luxury houses presenting their own versions each season. For autumn/winter 2019/20, Parisian label Chloé has some of the very best. The brand’s sturdy-soled offering takes Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 50
elements from classic 1990s styles with a hint of a practical hiking-boot aesthetic. Available in two vibrant, mismatched colourways, these trainers are certain to make a style statement. lt Chloé trainers, €575, Chloé, 253 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5504 0330, chloe.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 42
PHOTO: STANISLAS WOLFF
Made For Walking
FASHION, SKI & MOUNTAIN MULTIBRAND IN COURCHEVEL
www.bernard-orcel.com
Rue du Rocher, Courchevel 1850
T/ +33 (0) 4 79 08 23 51 welcome@bernard-orcel.com
12 | P R O D U C T S
Back To Black Keep things simple and elegant this season with classic black pieces, plenty of sparkle and a soft grey coat
ALBERTA FERRETTI HAT, €370, ALBERTA FERRETTI, 43 RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ, 75008 PARIS, +33 (0)1 4265 5547, ALBERTAFERRETTI.COM
LONGCHAMP DRESS, €1,200, LONGCHAMP, 404 RUE SAINT-HONORÉ, 75001 PARIS, +33 (0)1 4316 0016, LONGCHAMP.COM
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 50
LOUIS VUITTON BOOTS, €1,100, LOUIS VUITTON, 2 PLACE VENDÔME, 75001 PARIS, +33 (0)1 8170 2300, LOUISVUITTON.COM
PHOTOS: (DRESS) ALAIN NATHAN; (HAT) VINCENZO PATRUNO
CHAUMET EARRINGS, €5,280, CHAUMET, 392 RUE SAINT-HONORÉ, 75001 PARIS, +33 (0)1 4477 2424, CHAUMET.COM
SHOP HIGHLIGHT*
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SAINT LAURENT BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO BAG, €1,990, SAINT LAURENT, 53 AVENUE MONTAIGNE, 75008 PARIS, +33 (0)1 5383 8453, YSL.COM
PHOTOS: (BAG) THEBEHRENS.NYC; (WATCH) SÉBASTIEN COINDRE
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS BRACELET, €12,600, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, 20 PLACE VENDÔME, 75001 PARIS, +33 (0)1 5504 2004, VANCLEEFARPELS.COM
MAX MARA COAT, €809, MAX MARA, 31 AVENUE MONTAIGNE, 75008 PARIS, +33 (0)1 4720 6113, MAXMARA.COM
PIAGET WATCH, €56,000, PIAGET, 16 PLACE VENDÔME, 75001 PARIS, +33 (0)1 5535 3280, PIAGET.COM
*SHOP Highlight in paid partnership with Saint Laurent
ERMANNO SCERVINO GLOVES, €350, ERMANNO SCERVINO, 18 RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ, 75008 PARIS, +33 (0)1 4098 0044, ERMANNOSCERVINO.COM
14 | P R O D U C T S
Luxury Leather Opt for a soft brown palette and butter-soft leather accessories for a perfect winter look
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI JACKET, €6,200, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, 54 RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ, 75008 PARIS, +33 (0)1 4265 6452, BRUNELLOCUCINELLI.COM
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA TROUSERS, €445, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, 50 RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ, 75008 PARIS, +33 (0)1 4451 1991, ZEGNA.COM
WEMPE WATCH, €5,450, WEMPE, 16 RUE ROYALE, 75008 PARIS, +33 (0)1 4260 2177, WEMPE.COM
CHURCH’S BOOTS, €720, CHURCH’S, 229 RUE SAINT-HONORÉ, 75001 PARIS, +33 (0)1 5535 3460, CHURCH-FOOTWEAR.COM
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 50
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO BAG, €2,400, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO, 46 RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ, 75008 PARIS, +33 (0)1 4312 9696, FERRAGAMO.COM
Investment Piece
All: Celine’s 16 bag
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When Hedi Slimane took over at Celine in 2018, his very first move was to go back to the archives. The 16 handbag is a tribute to the historic Parisian fashion house and has become a modern classic, as Lucinda Turner reports
The 16 has already become a key piece and a beacon of classic Parisian style Throughout its 74-year history, French label Celine has created its fair share of ‘It’ bags, such as the Trio, Luggage and Classic styles, which are all instantly recognisable. And when Lady Gaga was seen sporting the new Celine 16 bag in Paris in August 2018, the fashion world heralded the arrival of a new modern classic. As the very first teaser for Hedi Slimane’s new direction at Celine, a month before his inaugural catwalk show, the handbag marked a new era for the house and showed the significant respect the artistic director paid to the past. Named after the couture house’s 16 rue Vivienne address, the piece is a reworking of many of the brand’s hallmarks from the 1960s. The cropped flap at the front, the rounded sides and the belted effect around the centre, as well as the overall vintage-inspired aesthetic, all pay homage to the true roots of the label. globalblue.com
Elegant, feminine top-handle bags continue to be a huge trend for the season ahead, and Celine’s 16 model makes the perfect purchase for autumn/winter 2019/20. Alongside the timeless oversized black version debuted last year, the bag is available in three sizes, over 10 colours and a variety of materials, including calfskin, lizard and crocodile. Created as a tribute to Celine’s impeccable craftsmanship and the very first design that Slimane sketched for the house, the 16 has already become a key piece and a beacon of classic Parisian style – what better purchase could you make in the City of Light? Celine by Hedi Slimane 16 bag, from €2,900, Celine, 53 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4070 0703, celine.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 41
SHOP WINDOW
Cartier recently unveiled a new look for its boutique on place Vendôme, following an impressive makeover. The historical character of the location is evoked in the boutique’s elegant interiors, which feature bespoke furniture and decoration by renowned Parisian artisans. It is the perfect place to immerse yourself in the maison’s rich heritage and visitors can discover the brand’s incredible craftsmanship through the historic and exceptional pieces on display in the Cartier Collection. The sophisticated store carries Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 50
jewellery, timepieces, leather goods, fragrance, bridal and more. Shop the brand’s famous designs, from Juste Un Clou jewellery to Panthère de Cartier watches and the newest collections. Alternatively, you can opt for something a little more personal and create a bespoke solitaire engagement ring with the Set For You service. grc Cartier, 23 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 7065 3800, cartier.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 45
PHOTO: XXXXXXX
A FINE ART
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NATURAL STYLE In September Icicle opened its first boutique in Paris, on avenue George V. The brand was established in Shanghai in 1997 and has over 250 stores in China. With its motto of ‘Made in Earth,’ Icicle has an eco-friendly approach and offers collections that celebrate nature through fabrics such as wool, silk, linen, cotton and cashmere. The brand’s aesthetic is also defined by clean lines, timeless designs and a soft colour palette. Focusing on the link between east and west, the new store features a cultural area as well as the brand’s ready-to-wear collections for men and women. grc Icicle, 35 avenue George V, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4359 1517, icicle.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 40
DREAM TEAM After the success of their previous collaboration, Parisian fashion house Yves Salomon and New York-born designer André Walker have once again joined forces. This season’s Pieces by André Walker collection is based on the themes of reusing, recycling and recreating, and centres around a joint vision for sustainability. The ready-towear designs, which span shirts, coats, trousers and dresses, are made from upcycled materials including organza, chiffon and fur. A neutral colour scheme of white, grey and navy is peppered with brighter hues. grc Yves Salomon, 245 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4703 3490, yves-salomon.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 42
globalblue.com
20 | N E W S
A TRUE MASTERPIECE Italian high-jewellery house Buccellati has opened a new flagship store in Paris. Located on the prestigious rue SaintHonoré, the elegant new boutique occupies the same building as the renowned Hôtel Costes. A dark colour scheme lends the space a refined look and highlights the brand’s exquisite jewellery, silverware and watches, which are all expertly hand-crafted by artisans. Buccellati’s superb craftsmanship is evident in everything from its 1920s-inspired cocktails rings to its Animalier brooches and bridal collections. The brand celebrates its 100th anniversary this year, making this the perfect time to visit its new Paris flagship. grc Buccellati, 239 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 1212, buccellati.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 42
FRENCH FLAIR True to form, De Fursac presents an elegant collection for autumn/winter 2019/20. The French brand is renowned for its sophisticated and expertly made formalwear for modern men, from suits to tuxedos and separates. This season it offers slim silhouettes, double-breasted suits and sleek dinner jackets. Velvets and corduroy lend texture to tailoring, while patterns include pinstripes, houndstooth and checks. With the addition of denim, leather blousons and knits, the brand also incorporates some more casual options into the range. De Fursac’s autumn/winter collection showcases Parisian tailoring at its best. grc De Fursac, 11bis rue Marbeuf, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4952 0810, defursac.fr FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 40
Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 50
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ADEPT CONCEPT Marni’s autumn/winter 2019/20 Neuroerotik collection plays with philosophical notions of sensuality, freedom and censorship. Creative director Francesco Risso presents a collection that demonstrates complex and artful construction, using folds, draping and pleats across dresses and skirts. Tailoring is deconstructed, with checks and pixelated prints appearing as recurring motifs. Marni’s statement coats and dresses are among the key investment pieces of the season. The collection also includes platform boots, large bags and small wallets. grc Marni, 57 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5688 0808, marni.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 41
RIGHT ON TIME
PHOTO: (TOP) JONATHAN DE VILLIERS
Omega recently presented 18K Moonshine gold and the new alloy features in one of the brand’s musthave timepieces for women this year, the Omega Trésor in 18K Moonshine gold (€8,100). Lighter than yellow gold, 18K Moonshine gold is used on the 36mm case, hands and buckle of the timepiece, creating a striking contrast to the red garnet dial and leather strap. In keeping with the Trésor collection’s signature style, a pavé of 38 single-cut diamonds sweeps elegantly around the case. A single diamond sitting at the centre of the crown’s red liquid ceramic flower design adds a chic finishing touch. grc Omega, 362-364 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 0360, omegawatches.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 42
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10
QUESIONS
10 QUESTIONS WITH: YVONNE LÉON Parisian jeweller Yvonne Léon launched her eponymous brand in 2013 and her pieces are among the coolest and most covetable in the French capital. With over 10,000 Instagram followers and stockists including Le Bon Marché and Dover Street Market, the label is one of the names to know in the city. Here, the designer discusses jewellery, family and the beauty of reinvention with Lucinda Turner
1.
WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO CREATE YOUR OWN JEWELLERY LINE? I started out in fashion – I was interested in clothes and I realised that I was always thinking about which kind of jewels could fit with this T-shirt, or this jacket. I was really obsessed with the jewels. HOW DOES YOUR EXPERIENCE AS A FASHION EDITOR AND STYLIST TRANSLATE INTO THE WORLD OF FINE JEWELLERY? The idea of collections, producing new things season after season and the idea of how to build a look and a spirit. WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR NEW COLLECTIONS? Everywhere. I am very sensitive to design, but it can come from anywhere. It could come from a song, a movie or a memory.
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WHERE DID THE IDEA FOR THE RENOWNED UNDER-THE-EAR EARRINGS COME FROM? I have to admit that it came from my father, who is also a jeweller. He wanted to invent something special for his wife (my mum) – it’s a love story! YOU USE AN INCREDIBLE RANGE OF MODELS IN YOUR IMAGERY. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE YVONNE LÉON WOMAN? Someone who is free to reinvent herself day after day, to create her own style, to change her mind; to go for the classic and to make a U-turn for something original and strong. She is free from codes and free from social class. WHICH ITEM OF JEWELLERY DO YOU WEAR EVERY DAY? I never take off my Feuilletis pendant.
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Above (clockwise from left): Yvonne Léon flagship store; two La Chevalière rings; a Feuilletis pendant
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IN A WORLD DOMINATED BY ECOMMERCE, HOW IMPORTANT IS YOUR BRICKS-ANDMORTAR STORE IN PARIS? The flagship is irreplaceable. This is where people can play and try things on in real life. It’s a place where women can talk about what they desire. I am glad if they feel comfortable in the store and ready to become themselves. WHICH YVONNE LÉON PIECE WOULD YOU RECOMMEND TO A NEW CUSTOMER? Our La Chevalière ring.
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WHAT DOES THE MADE IN PARIS STANDARD MEAN TO YOUR BRAND? It is a guarantee of quality and the effort that goes into the craftsmanship of our Parisian workshop. It seems essential to me in these times of high industrialisation to stay in a craft movement, to not let handmade things go astray. WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD FOR YVONNE LÉON? No one knows, that is what is exciting.
10.
Yvonne Léon, 25 rue du Vieux Colombier, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4325 3639, yvonneleon.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 46 Above (clockwise from top left): La Chevalière rings; the exterior of the flagship Paris store; the Boucle D’Oreille Barre earring
24 | A DV E R TO R I A L
SHOP SPOTLIGHT: BUCHERER
O
ver the course of its 130-year history, Bucherer has forged excellent relationships with the world’s best watch brands. The strength of these bonds is showcased in the exclusive Bucherer Blue collection. Inspired by the colour blue, the range features timepiece designs from 20 manufacturers selected by the brand. Blue is not only Bucherer’s signature hue, but it is also a shade that has inspired numerous artists throughout history, as well as being a timeless and elegant colour choice for timepieces. The Bucherer Blue collection comprises 39 exclusive watches for men and women from an impressive list of names: Audemars Piguet,
SHOP Spotlight in paid partnership with Bucherer
Baume & Mercier, Blancpain, Breguet, Carl F Bucherer, Chopard, Glashütte Original, H Moser & Cie, Hublot, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Oris, Panerai, Piaget, Rado, Roger Dubuis, Tag Heuer, Tissot, Tudor and Vacheron Constantin. Each piece offers the perfect display of the respective manufacturer’s technical know-how, craftsmanship and unique style. grc Bucherer, 12 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 70 99 1888, bucherer.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 44
PHOTO: (RIGHT) CHAIRA MARIA GRIONI
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Menswear
Moment From world-renowned heritage brands to cutting-edge streetwear labels, Paris Fashion Week Men’s is taking centre stage in the fashion industry, as Rebecca Rhys-Evans reports
Left: Kenzo autumn/winter 2019/20
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28 | F E AT U R E
Above: Celine autumn/winter 2019/20
PHOTOS:: (LEFT) GORUNWAY.COM; (RIGHT) JACQUEMUS/GORUNWAY.COM
I
t’s official – menswear is having a moment. From Instagram hype driving in-store sneaker sales to a flourishing men’s grooming industry, business is booming for the menswear market. Despite this, some men’s fashion weeks are reportedly struggling to garner the same interest and traction as in previous years – with the notable exception of Paris. While London and New York are driven heavily by emerging talent, Paris offers a more balanced programme of old and new. Prestigious French designers feature alongside leading international luxury brands, including Thom Browne and Rick Owens from the US, Paul Smith and JW Anderson from the UK, Loewe from Spain and Jil Sander from Germany. Several Japanese and Scandinavian labels are also present, putting Paris Fashion Week Men’s at the heart of the global menswear scene. It also showcases illustrious creative directors, rising stars and a plethora of styles, from tailoring to trend. Paris Fashion Week Men’s is for the guy that does both. Couture and cool, it rivals London for its contemporary streetwear scene, and its reputation for traditional, family-run houses is on a par with Milan’s. Virgil Abloh is the embodiment of this dual approach, and the renowned designer presents his own cutting-edge label Off-White as well the classic French fashion of Louis Vuitton, where he is men’s artistic director. Some might argue that all fashion capitals offer this kind of range, but few events can match the diversity and pioneering command that Paris has shown in recent seasons. The autumn/winter 2019/20 collections offered a wealth of highlights, including Hedi Slimane’s first Celine line specifically for men, which showcased his superb signature tailoring. Having proved his genius at Saint Laurent, Slimane has stayed true to his aesthetic at Celine, presenting sharp suits for every kind of man. Options included pinstripe, double-breasted, slimfit and oversized styles – a veritable sartorial feast for all. Menswear brands at the event encompass an eclectic mix of talent. Classic style has made a cool comeback, with Dior Homme, Berluti, Paul Smith and Dunhill presenting autumn/winter 2019/20 collections that promise tailoring with a contemporary twist. Paul Smith and Berluti have
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Above: Jacquemus spring/summer 2020
30 | F E AT U R E
both gone for a cosy clash of colours and textures this winter, with bold shearling coats, leather jackets and abstract floral print suits. Looking forward to spring, the labels introduce 1980s-inspired silhouettes and pastel palettes with a sense of couture. The June shows for spring/summer 2020 brought another week of highlights. Kenzo presented its final show under creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon – the design duo who have been behind the commercial success of the brand since 2011. To say they went out with a bang would be an understatement. The show featured a surprise performance from Solange in front of a Above (from left): Berluti; Paul Smith, both autumn/winter 2019/20
20,000-strong crowd, which included celebrities such as singer MIA. Simon Porte Jacquemus rounded off Paris Fashion Week Men’s by inviting selected editors and influencers to the sun-drenched lavender fields of Provence, to celebrate a decade of his eponymous label. The catwalk was a fuchsia-pink carpet, running a third of a mile through the stunning setting, which provided such striking images that you could practically smell the flowers through your Instagram feed. Bees buzzed, models walked, and the industry watched closely as Jacquemus worked his magic for the tenth year running, showcasing one of the most spectacular shows in Fashion Week Men’s history.
PHOTOS: (ALL) GORUNWAY.COM
For the first time, the industry’s focus seems to be shifting from womenswear to menswear
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For the first time, the fashion industry’s focus seems to be shifting from womenswear to menswear. ‘The men’s market has traditionally been a lot smaller than the women’s market, but as the women’s business slows, so the men’s business expands,’ explains Dylan Thomas, GQ’s editorin-chief. ‘This, of course, has been due to one thing and one thing only: consumer demand. Men these days expect great clothes at every price level, be that high street, mid-market, designer, luxury or bespoke. They expect quality at any price and, so far, the market appears to be delivering it.’ In an era of shows, collaborations and drops surrounded by social media-driven hype,
designers such as Abloh and Dior’s Kim Jones are now attracting as much attention as the leading womenswear creatives. While London is celebrated for its creativity, commerciality is king in New York and tradition rules in Milan, Paris is the one location right now that seems to offer it all. Here, boundary-pushing brands such as Vetements, Pigalle Paris and Raf Simons create an atmosphere that encourages the more classical designers to go a step further, and audiences leave each season’s event in the City of Light even more excited about the next. In this melting pot of talent, the future of menswear in the French capital looks bright
Above: Solange Knowles on the catwalk during Kenzo’s spring/summer 2020 show
32 | E X P E R I E N C E
RAISING THE BAR Offering environmental and health benefits, natural wine has become increasingly popular in Paris. Ginger Rose Clark picks out some of the best bars in the city to enjoy a glass or two
Natural wine is created in full respect of nature. While it may be difficult to completely define it, the general consensus is that natural wine is made with minimal chemical and technical intervention, little-to-no sulphur and by small producers in small batches. Better for both the environment and those who drink it, natural wine has witnessed colossal success in France and the country produces one of the widest offerings in the world. Many of Paris’s food and drink establishments now proudly feature it on their menus and the city has become internationally renowned for its natural wine offering. From wine bars to cafes, restaurants and tasting rooms, these natural wine destinations showcase the burgeoning sector at its finest. globalblue.com
SEPTIME LA CAVE Anyone familiar with the name of Septime on rue de Charonne will know this is a restaurant with high standards and excellent produce. This philosophy is carried through to the wine bar Septime La Cave, which has a wide range of natural wines. Visitors can find a bottle to take away or spend a leisurely hour or two over drinks, soaking up the cosy atmosphere. To accompany the wine, Septime La Cave serves up innovative small dishes, such as eel foie gras, toasted bread with smoked butter and black truffles, or leeks with ricotta and pecans. Septime La Cave, 3 rue Basfroi, 75011 Paris, +33 (0)1 4367 1487, septime-lacave.fr
34 | E X P E R I E N C E
LE P’TIT PINARD Le P’tit Pinard is a charming wine shop and bar, run by Charlotte Poumailloux and Julien Pontoizeau. In a light-filled space located on a quiet street in the 11th arrondissement, the duo offer a warm welcome. Pontoizeau is in charge of the wine offering, while Poumailloux magics up a selection of dishes from the compact, glass-fronted kitchen. The menu changes weekly, featuring seasonal ingredients in celebration of the French terroir, and Le P’tit Pinard also serves brunch at the weekend. Expect small plates that are ideal for sharing, such as Black Angus beef with fennel or pink clams with nduja salami, not to mention a selection of delicious desserts – the perfect accompaniments to a superb wine offering. Le P’tit Pinard, 18 rue Saint Ambroise, 75011 Paris, +33 (0)9 8702 0011, leptitpinard.fr
LA CURIEUSE COMPAGNIE La Curieuse Compagnie is a wine shop and bar that celebrates natural wine. The young, knowledgeable team behind the bar are happy to share their recommendations on the organic, biodynamic and natural wines that line one wall. While you can simply pop in to purchase a bottle to take away, we recommend you sit in to appreciate the laidback atmosphere of the place. Try a pét-nat (the colloquial term for natural sparkling wines), or opt for one of the many reds to pair with wellexecuted small dishes such as cured fish. La Curieuse Compagnie is a great place to while away an evening over a flavoursome glass or two. La Curieuse Compagnie, 32 rue de l’Echiquier, 75010 Paris, +33 (0)9 8667 4142, curieusecompagnie.com globalblue.com
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228 LITRES Situated in the 9th arrondissement, recently opened 228 Litres comprises a wine shop, wine bar and tasting room. Its location in Montmartre has a rich history of wine bars – the area was not considered a part of Paris until 1860 so Parisians would come to bars around nearby rue des Martyrs to avoid paying the city’s taxes on the beverage. Specialising in vintage wines, 228 Litres carries over 300 wine references, including a large selection of organic, biodynamic and natural options. Choose a bottle to take away, or sit in to discover some of the carefully selected wines by founder Pierre Renauld (customers should note there is a €10 corkage fee per bottle). Renauld is passionate about wine – a love that he is keen to share with others – and 228 Litres also hosts tastings and masterclasses. 228 Litres, 3 rue Victor Massé, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 7160 5157, 228litres.fr
PHOTO: DORIAN ROLLIN
LA ROBE & LA MOUSSE A sibling to craft beer bar and restaurant La Fine Mousse, La Robe & La Mousse places the focus on both beer and wine. Enjoy French craft beer from the bar’s 16 taps and two cask pumps, or opt for one of the natural, organic or biodynamic wines, served by the glass or bottle. Take a seat at the wooden bar or head down to the vaulted cellar to enjoy your drink, along with a selection of charcuterie and cheese, warm pies or small bites to eat. La Robe & La Mousse is a perfect option for wine and beer drinkers alike. La Robe & La Mousse, 3 rue Monsieur le Prince, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)9 8129 2989, lafinemousse.fr
RELAX. REFRESH. REFUND. Our Global Blue Lounges are the perfect places to relax during your shopping trip. Situated in the most fashionable areas of the world’s shopping capitals, the invitation only lounges are a haven for Tax Free Shopping.
Barcelona Passeig de Gràcia, 78
Munich Maximilianstraße 30, 80539
Florence Piazza della Repubblica 6, 50123
Paris 4 rue Cambon, 75001
London 18-19 Albemarle St, W1S 4BB
Rome Piazza di Spagna 29, 00187
Madrid Calle de Claudio Coello 83, 28001
Venice Piscina S. Moise, 30124
Milan Via Santo Spirito 5, 20121
PHOTO: ISTOCK
PARIS GUIDE
Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Paris with a look at its must-visit destinations, from a leading jewellery brand to the world-famous Eiffel Tower. Start with our highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For further helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com.
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Camille Fournet Explore impeccably crafted watch straps, bags, accessories and gloves from this luxury French leather goods brand. Camille Fournet, 5 rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 7376, camillefournet.com
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RÉAUMUR SÉBASTOPOL
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ARTS ET MÉTIERS ÉTIENNE MARCEL CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU
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MABILLON SAINTSULPICE
ODEON CLUNY - LA SORBONNE
Global Blue Retailer
MAUBERT MUTUALITÉ
Global Blue Lounge
PONT MARIE
Prada Founded in 1913, this leading fashion house is the place to shop some of the season’s most eyecatching pieces. Prada, 7 rue de Grenelle, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4548 5314, prada.com
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Wempe Discover one of the widest selections of timepieces available in Paris, including many of the brand’s own beautiful models. Wempe, 16 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 2177, wempe.com
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Liu Jo This leading fashion house offers glamorous knitwear, accessories, shoes and sportswear. Liu Jo, 182 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 5371 1540, liujo.com
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● MAUBOUSSIN ● TIFFANY & CO.
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MONTBLANC CELIO SWAROVSKI SKAGEN GRAND OPTICAL
RUE ARSENE HOUSSAYE
● ● ● ● ●
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Change Group Refund Office
Avenue des Champs-Élysées West, Avenue George V & Rue François 1er
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Inspired by the great love story of fragrance aficionado Count Alfred d’Orsay and Countess Marguerite Gardiner, D’Orsay’s Bureau Postal (post office) boutique offers a stunning range of perfumes and home fragrances. The name is a tribute to the many love letters the couple wrote to each other and the boutique offers a unique take on the traditional perfumery concept. sm D’Orsay Bureau Postal, 44 rue du Bac, 75007 Paris, dorsay.paris
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Global Blue Retailer
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PHOTO: ARNAUD PYVKA
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S H O P | 41
PSG ●
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MAX MARA ●
CHRISTIAN ● DIOR COUTURE ● BABY DIOR
● LOUIS VUITTON
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● GUISEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN ● PRADA MEN ● PR ADA ● SHIAIZ CHEN ● ESCADA
● GIORGIO ARMANI
Restaurant
● CHANEL
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VERSACE ●
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● GUCCI ● RONERTO CAVALLI ● ST DUPONT ● BLUMARINE ● JIL SANDER ● DOLCE & GABBANA P.21 CELINE ● ● CHLOÉ SAINT LAURENT ● ● RALPH LAUREN FENDI ● ● BARBARA BUI CHANEL ● ● LOEWE ESPACE BONPOINT ● ● MARIGNAN ● DIOR AKRIS ●
EM
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● ADIDAS ● BANANA REPUBLIC
● ● ● ● ● REP ETT O ●
ZAD IG & VOLTAIR E ●
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IER
ABE RCR OMB IE & FITC H ●
AR
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P.21
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LAMPE ● BERGER
L’A TE
● ZIM IZ A M NIC ERLI C C O L PA R KO L A S ● VI L L EC T L A N ● EBR ION E EQ U ● ● IN ● MA KI X& A RT TO N ● MA IOL MO C AT T E S A I ● I ● RB OP EU OLI RE N T FA Ç I● GA I Q UF L O L MA NN E JE ● ABL O ● SER MICH E ● GE RIS TI NIK A ● EG LU O● ER MM TO ● B U CO D AL ZIL SM LE IEL LI ● ● B CE F E S CO 8 P.5 RU E RU NC T IN S FR A ● B FR A AT GE ● N ÇO AR ALMA RRÈ K IS 1E ● ● B CO U R ●
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● QUIKSILVER
DISNEY ZARA CITROEN ZARA HOME GAP
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FRANK LIN D. ROOSE VELT
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Avenue des Champs-Élysées East, Rue François 1er, Rue Marbeuf & Avenue Montaigne
Metro
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CHRISTOFLE ● MISSONI ● MANOUSH ● KIEHL'S ● BA&SH ● THEORY ●
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE ● PETIT BATEAU ● OLE LYNGGAARD COPENHAGEN ●
NO RÉ
Featured In This Issue
AV .D
NO RÉ
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L’ O
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Place André Malraux
E L IE U
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A ST IG LI O
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Place Vendôme
O RÉ
● JOVOY LORENA ● ANTONIAZZI ● CAROLINA HERRERA
A NN ICK GO UTA L● ● LO U IS A LEX A ND ● G U ER VU IT TO N PIE RR E MA RCO RE ● LA LIN I ● ● GI U SE IN STE LLA MC C A RTN EY ● ● AK IL PP E ZA N O TT I LI E GOYA R D ● ● E GOYAS M ILL ER ● RD ● EX W ZAN IH IL O ST ELL A MC C A OT TI ● ● DODO RTN EY ● LUC I EN P ELL AT● SA KA RE FIN E T ● CH UR CH ● BA LDI NIN I R ICH AR D GR AN ● D● ● MOYN AT ● PH ILIP PE FER R A ND IS
RU E D E C
● JIMMY CHOO ● KITON ● ZARA ● COACH ● ALEXAND ER MCQUEEN ● BRIONI ● EMPORIO ARMANI ● MARC JACOBS ● MIKI HOUSE
● BILLIONA IRE ● ZIMMERL I ● DAVID MORRIS ● OMEGA P.21 ● ALEXIS ● DE GRISOGO NO ● CHOPARD
RU E SA IN T- H ON
RUE D
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● KRIS VAN ASSCHE
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FREY WILLE ● EB MEYROWITZ ● H STERN ●
FR EY WIL LE
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Non-Global Blue Retailer
RU E SA IN T- HO
● CASTANER SHIATZY ● CHEN ● VEBER
APERLAЇ ● FREDERIC MALLE ● WOL FORD ● OCTO PUSS Y ● CADO LLE ● LINE A PIÙ ● P.10 CHLO É ● PORT S 1961 ● DSQU ARED 2 ● TUM I ● J M WES TON ● P.19 YVES SALO MON ● HOTE L COST ES ● P.20 BUCC ELLATI ●
● KILI AN ● TOM FORD
● CORD ELIA
FAURÉ LE PAGE ●
● NODUS ● CECILE ET JEANNE ● TOUS
PLEIN SPORT ● MES SIKA ●
PAC O RAB ANN E ● ROBE RTO CAVA LLI ●
CHANEL ●
NOCIBE ● CHEMINS BLANCS ● VIVIENNE WESTWOOD ●
CAMILLE FOURNET ● RU E C A M B O N
● CHANE L
IRE
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●C AR ON
HEURGON ●
VALENTINO ●
ROGER VIVIER ●
● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● DJULA ●
MIU MIU ● AUDEMAR S PIGUET ●
LA BAGAGER IE ● BERLU TI ● MONCL ER ● PANERAI ● DOLCE & GABBANA ● SARTORE ●
LANVIN HOMME ● SERGIO ROSSI ●
CHANEL ● TOD’S ● CARTIER ●
● L ANVIN FEMME ● LA PERLA ● ERMAN NO SCERV INO ● BOT T EGA VENETA ● LORO PIANA ● LONGI NES ● PRADA ● PINKO ● GUCCI
● HERMÈS
● GIVENCHY
RUE DU FAUB O U RG SA INT- H ONORÉ RENE CAOVILLA ●
ZADIG & VOLTAIRE JITROIS SAINT LAURENT YVES SALOMON ARAMIS BLOCH JUN ASHIDA SAINT LAURENT BOUCHERON
● 55 CROISETTE ● BURBERRY ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● COMME DES GARCONS ● MOSCHINO ● HOGAN ● ERMENEGI LDO ZEGNA ● LEONARD ● SALVATOR E FERRAGAM O
NORÉ
RU
MI DE S E DE S PY R A
AUDIO ● TECHNICA
VALERIE ● DANENBERG MAISO N MICHE L ●
RUE SAINT-HONORÉ
● COTÉLAC
TARA JARMON ANNE FONTAINE GUERLAIN HERVE CHAPELIE R
JOHN ● GALLIANO
● ● ● ●
● LONGCHA MP
IN T-H O
MAJE ● FENDI ●
SANDRO ●
CHRONOPASSION ● DJULA ●
● TORY BURCH ● MAX MARA
GO
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'A R
Global Blue Retailer BOU
ELENA MIRO ● ROGER & GALLET ● FLORSHEIM ● THE KOOPLES ● HILIO ● OLDEN ●
JEAN PATOU ● R U E S A I N T- F L O R E N T I N
● BRACCIAL INI
● GROSSEN S
RIN
●M ● AU D ● FA B IA F R IZ ● RM A R IAN A F ILO N ● O S A N N E IP P I TA ID S A R C L A R A ● CR T IN E R IE R I A ● MH O CO & ● A R IN L AT ● L O R I B A R IN ALD ● PM A R IN L U I IE R A E N R E C FA ARD NT IN ● SO THEB Y ’S ● M IL FR ET TE A DY ● ● BU RMA ● CHO PA R D ● SO N IA R A LB ER Y K IE L ● PO TA FE R IR AY R ET TI ● ● A P O S TR R IC H A OPHE ● RD OR ● CHR L IN S K IS T IA I N LOU BOUT IN ● ETR O ● PO MELL AT O ● BAR BAR A BUI ● BALLY
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● DIOR ● CLERGERIE CHANTAL ● JO MALONE THOMAS ● ● MAC COSMOPARIS ● ● BONPOINT ● MONIES MAJESTIC FILATURES ● ● STELLA LUNA PENHALIGON’S ● ● STONE ISLAND ● SATELLITE FRAGONARD ● ● APRIATI PEUTEREY ● ● SEQUOIA LA PRAIRIE ● ● PARABOOT
VILEBREQUIN ● LYUBOV ● MICHAEL KORS ● & OTHER STORIES ● MULBERRY ● VALENTINO ●
● WEMPE ● LANCASTE R
RUE ROYA L E
DU
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PAULE KA ● PAUL SMITH ●
● BURMA ● STUART WEITZMAN COMPTOIR ● DES COTONNIERS ● BALENCIAGA ● OBILIS ● EXEMPLAIRE ● AKILLIS ● DIPTYQUE
RUE
RU
● VANESSA SEWARD
42 | PA R I S G U I D E
Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
Rue Saint-Honoré West
Rue Saint-Honoré East
DELVA UX ●
S H O P | 43
DINH VAN Launched in 1976, the enduringly popular Menottes collection has been the heart of jewellery brand Dinh Van for over 40 years. The name means handcuffs, and the range showcases the clasp as central to each piece’s design, rather than being hidden as in traditional styles. The Menottes clasp is also designed to be practically impossible to open once it’s been closed, making the items in the collection true forever pieces. The range encompasses necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings, and the finest items also incorporate diamonds, malachite, tiger’s eye, carnelian and agate. sm Dinh Van, 16 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4261 7449, dinhvan.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 45
Rue du Malesherbes
Rue du Boissy D'Anglas
Place de la Madeleine ● SIA NINE WEST ●
MANFIELD ●
● EQ:IQ
UL
JEAN VIER ●
SY RUE BOIS
HERMÈS ●
● ANNE FONTAINE ● ERIC BOMPARD ● BRIC’S
● LANVIN
RUE D U FA UB OU R G S A I N T- HON O RÉ
globalblue.com
RUE D’ANJ OU
JOHN LOBB ●
RUE R OYA LE
● YVES DELORME ● THE KOOPLES ● GUY DEGRENNE ● AGATHA
D'ANGLAS
ALESSI ● LAGUIOLE ● MAJE ●
● BURBERRY OLIVER B O ● GRANT
EV A R ● BRUCE FIELD D M AL ES HE RB ES SAMSUNG ●
ODIOT ● GUY DEGRENNE ● PATRICK BELL & ROSS ● ROGER ● LOUIS EDOUARD LEJEUNE ●
44 | PA R I S G U I D E
Rue Tronchet, Place de la Madeleine, Boulevard Malesherbes, Rue Boissy d’Anglas, Boulevard de la Madeleine, Rue Royale, Boulevard des Capucines & Rue Scribe ● NESPRESS O
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S C R IB
● MASSIMO DUTTI
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O
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HEDEGREN ● CHANEL ●
AU
GA RI X
TH CA
LO N
MAISON ● DE FAMILLE
FAURÉ LE PAGE ●
RUE CAM BON
● YUMIKO KATSURA
● LE JACQUARD FRANÇAIS
● HERVÉ CHAPE LIER ● LES ATELI ERS DE LA MAILE
Ladurée ● WEMPE
● TOM FORD
RUE SAINT-HONORÉ
RU E SA IN T- HO
● ● ● ●
NO R É
C A S T IG
● AURELIE BIDERMANN ● IRO
EMILE LÉON O J PERRIN HAVILAND / DAUM ARTHUS BERTRAND
RUE DE
AUDEMARS PIGUET ● HEURGON ● BONPOINT ● ST LOUIS ● ISSEY MIYAKE ● BERNARDAUD ● LALIQUE ● CHRISTOFLE ● J L COQUET ● MAXIM'S ●
RU E ROYA L E
VILLEROY & BOCH ● GUCCI ●
● KENZO
GERARD ● DAREL ● PINEL & PINEL ● THE KOOPLES ● MARINA RINALDI
ESCALES ●
DIOR ● LE VILLAGE ROYALE ● ● NAPAPIJRI CHANEL ● ● EMLING APC ●
E
PATRICK ROGER ●
ON
ES
DE
RB
CH
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MAILLE ● MASSIMO DUTTI ● RALPH LAUREN ●
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BCBGMAXAZRIA ●
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UL
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ZWILLING ●
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FR
● MARELLA
LA
●
ZARA HOME ● LIPAULT ● LA MAISON DU E CHOCOLAT ● IN
● ALAIN FIGARET
Place de la Madeleine
RU E VOLNEY
U R OY
● BOULANGER ● AIGLE ● TOMMY HILFIGER
● FAUCHON
MADELE INE
O
UL
O D OT
NICOLAS ●
M
S
● LA MAROQUIN ERIE PARISIENNE ● EKYOG ● CLAIRVUE OPTIQUE ● NATALYS ● LE BOURGET ● WEILL ● ARTHUR & FOX ● WINONA ● EMA PIAZI ● THE STORE ● GANTS HELION ● CHAVANEL ● CAROLL ● INDIES ● PALAIS DE THES ● YVES THURIES ● LE CREUSET ● LA BAGAGERIE ● CHRISTINE LAURE ● SALAMAND ER ● FIL À FIL ● PRONOVIAS ● MADURA ● FAIRMOUNT ● CAREL ● PIERRE CUVEX I SK N OV H O S R E S WA RFA U C E ● ● ● RUE G
RUE T RO N CH E T
BRITISH DESTOCK ● OBREY ● PETIT BATEAU ● COS ● SAINT JAMES ● KUJTEN ●
UL
● NINE WEST ● EQ:IQ ● ERIC BOMPARD
DE
RUE T RO NCHET
JACADI ● IKKS ● CATIMINI ●
L ANCEL ● GUESS ● DESIGUAL ● MATY ●
B ER
CLAUDIE PIERLOT ●
OLIVER GRANT ●
BO
BURMA ●
RUE AU
LA CA PA F É D Place Opéra NA A IX ● E M CO P M AI ● BENETTON ● S M ON W BON ● BASLER ON A A B T SA T B DIVINE ● PRINCESSE R C O TA M S B L A I Z H ● N FRAGONARD ● ● TAM TAM G O N A● PHILIPPE CA HE NIT C ● B FERRANDIS ● U CH RT UER E ● ● CALIDA ER IER ● GOLFINO ● P.2 E R ● ● 4 COMPTOIR DES ● IKKS MAJE ● COTONNIERS ● ERIC BOMPARD ● RUE DAUNOU PE GAP ● ● OMEGA RI G ● BALLY Z A OT ● RA ● ● HARMONT & BLAINE B GA AB ● LACOSTE P Y ● HACKETT ● ● MANFIELD ● GANT E
MARIONNAUD ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● EXCLUSIF ● NESPRESSO ● COLOMBINE ● SABON ● PRINCESSE TAM TAM ● CHARLES COTONAY ● SOPHIE FLORE ● EMLING ● AUBADE ● ETAM LINGERIE ● CARETTA ● ARTHUR ●
MAISON DE LA TRUFFE ● MARIAGE FRERES ●
AU B
RUE
DEVERNOIS ●
RUE
RUE DE LA PAIX
● GAP
LI O N E
GUERLAIN ● UN JOUR AILLEURS ● DJULA ●
Global Blue Retailer
Non-Global Blue Retailer
Featured In This Issue
Metro
Global Blue Lounge
Café
S H O P | 45
S NE CI CA
PU
Place Opéra ● JAIME MASCARO
● BENETTON
UL
EV AR
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DE
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MENARD ● ALAIN FIGARET ● WASKOLL ● A LANGE & SÖHNE ● VAN LAACK ● GAREL ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● POIRAY ● ALFRED DUNHILL ● MAUBOUSSIN ● GARLAND ● CARTIER ● MELLERIO ●
TTF HAUTE JOAILLERIE ●
RUE DE LA PAIX
To own a Vacheron Constantin timepiece is to belong to an exclusive club that dates back over 260 years. Members can celebrate the artistry found in the limited-edition watches that the brand have become famous for. For 2019, Vacheron Constantin has unveiled three new horological masterpieces, the FiftySix Blue Dial, Patrimony Blue Dial and the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The latter model is dedicated to travellers and is available with either a pink gold case and blue dial and straps, or with a pink gold bracelet for those who wish to make a real statement. A perfect souvenir of your time in the City of Light, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin also offers you a lifetime membership of the Belle Haute Horology club. sm Vacheron Constantin, 2 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4020 1755, vacheronconstantin.com
Place Vendôme & Rue de la Paix
BO
VACHERON CONSTANTIN
PIAGET ● OFFICINE PANERAI ● IWC ●
AMIN KADER ●
● MARVELLA ● ROSSIGNO L ● TARTINE ET CHOCOLAT ● REPETTO ● VANITY FAIR ● CHRISTOF LE ● BAUME ET MERCIER
● LERY ● DINH VAN P.43 ● BURMA ● FRED ● KORLOFF ● ANNE KERVALL COUTURE ● BREITLING ● JAQUET DROZ ● ROLEX ● TIFFANY & CO. ● GLASHÜTT E ORIGINAL ● DAUM VACHERON ● CONSTANT IN
BUCCELLATI ● BULGARI ● BAUMER ● SCHIAPARELLI ● I ● ● ● N ER H IA TI IT M AR EN DA C Z Ritz Paris
D RUE
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● BOUCHERO N
● BLANCPAIN VAN CLEEF & ● ARPELS ● CHANEL ● PIAGET
Place Vendôme
ROLEX ● JAEGER LECOULTRE ●
LLE C
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8 P.1
GRAFF ●
A N IE
● CHAUMET ● HUBLOT PATEK ● PHILIPPE ● MIKIMOTO ● DIOR ● BREGUET
FRED ●
CHOPARD ●
RUE SA INT- H ON O R É
PHOTO: RENAUD KRITZINGER
SELECTED STORES IN RITZ PARIS: Concept Store Colombo Via Della Spiga Tasaki
globalblue.com
● LOUIS VUITTON
RUE SAIN T-HO NOR É
46 | PA R I S G U I D E
Boulevard Saint-Germain, Rue Saint-Sulpice, Rue du Four, Rue de Sèvres & Rue de Grenelle
● REPETTO ● PATAUGAS ● TIMBERLAND ● CORIOLAN ● SEIDENSTICKER
ISABEL MARANT ●
● DIESEL
R U● MARIONNAUD EB
HUGO BOSS ●
●L ● D ODIN ● N ARM G ● A ANIE ON IGL E
CARVEN ● IKKS ● IRO ●
UX
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SAINT-GERMAIN DES-PRÉS
JOSEPH ● TED BAKER ● JIMMY FAIRLY ●
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FABRICE ●
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EMPORIO FAÇONNABLE ● ● ARMANI GERARD DAREL ● ● CARON PARIS SHU UEMURA ● COMPTOIR ● ARTHUR & FOX DES COTONNIERS ● ● JUST CAMPAGNE JOTT ●
POIRAY ●
POM D’API ● DIAMANTISSIMO ● FREELANCE ● BILLIES MARKET ● IKKS ● LES MONTRES COLLECTOR ●
RU
●M A
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BOBBI BROWN ●
L P IC
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● RENE DERHY ● PARALLELE ● MAC DOUGLAS ● MAJE ● BONPOINT ● HERMÈS
Department Store
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- BABYLONE
RC
Global Blue Retailer Metro
OLIVER SANDRO ● GRANT THIBAULT ● ● JET SET
HE
BRAND BAZAR ● SÈVRES CLARINS ●
● LONGINES ● LOSCO ● FREY WILLE ● CAFÉ COTON
UC
BOUL EVAR D RASPAIL
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S E LL UR YE MA IC VO ● ER ED T FR ICKE W ●
OMEGA ●
BERLUTI ● ALAIN FIGARET ● CYRILLUS ● LE TANNEUR ● BIBA ●
● CLERGERIE
● COLISSE
RU
PABLO ● GERARD DAREL ●
● SWATCH
RU E DE SÈ V RE S
I● F I FU R ● N TE TIA ● CA RIS TIN VO C H O U UB LO
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KIEHL'S ● KIPLING ● B’ROOM GRAFFITI ● PRINCESSE TAM TAM ● DURANCE ● SHANG XIA ●
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AUBADE ● BALIBARIS ●
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RU
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NT T T IN RE O E SA L AU A B O LL LA ● PA R BI GIE MA R ● IS MA E EX N OR AL ISO AT O ● ● MA LV M EN S A AG A ● E● RV IN ● RR I CA EL OK ● FE LE ● C R AC O N PE CH IL S M ● I● G GO TA AM DI NE M RI I IN TA E● A CA NG STE SE 5' S 4 SA TI ● CE ● E S A P AU ● IN F R N - B U R E I R I SR ● PR T L A JEA UT ● ET ME H ● RA NN AM MIT BE SK LS L E AU LK ● AR P
DE
DSQUARED2 ●
SAINT-SULPICE
JALK ● SANDRO ● HESCHUNG ● SWILDENS ●
COCCINELLE ● TOD’S ●
COMPTOIR DES ● COTONNIERS
EV
KUJTEN ● LEON & HARPER ● UGG ● REINE ROSALIE ● SUGAR ● MELLOW YELLOW ● MANOUSH ● APRIATI ● MARINA RINALDI ●
RTE
E RE M CE M N O DE E É E H SSAT RU DR OIR G L A AN OT AN ICT IN EL GR MP RL ● V L C R A M ● E AR VE CH A IE IS ● M LI NG NT IE P AR ● O O RA D P 2 ● L A AU O .2 ● K L SM E P ● C O N ● C ON ON PER ● V É M Y L A ● C ●
● SHADE ● BARBARA BUI
CH
AG L'ARTISAN PARFUMEUR ●
DR
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ALEXANDRA SOJFER EDWARD GREEN SAVE THE QUEEN LOEWE GALERIE ISSEY MIYAKE
DU
IN
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A PA
RU
RU
A
● NAPAPIJRI
BO
Ralph’s
ON
AR
● NILAÏ ● H E RT H E K AUBADE ● OO V PLE AGNÈS B ● Z● C H A E S AD P IG ELIE ● R MARIONNA UD ● ● V O LT & ● VA E S O PA I R E ILE TWIN SET ● BRE SATELLITE ● QU IN
● THE KOOPLES ● STEFAN GREEN GAP ● ● THE SLOWEAR STORE + STEFAN GREEN ● MONCLER DESCAMPS ● ● VANESSA SEWARD SAKARÉ ● ● RALPH LAUREN
● SONIA RYKIEL VIGNES ● APOSTROPH E ● RU ED PAULE KA ● ES ● ETRO SA KARL LAGERFELD ● IN TS FRAGONARD ● PÈ ● IL GUFO RE VERSUS ● S ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
EB
XM
● LA BAGAGERIE
UL
EV AR
MAUBOUSSIN ● LIU JO ●
● HEYRAUD ● LA POINTURE THEA SO SWEET ● ● SUNCOO ● KINZA PATRICK ROGER ● ● LIU JO CHRISTIAN ● ANNAH LACROIX ● ● INTIMISSIMI ● SILK & CASHMERE SAINT ● BEL AIR LAURENT ● ● PETIT BATEAU ● WHAT FOR ANNICK GOUTAL ●
S A IN
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TARA JARMON ● CALZEDONIA ●
RUE
AR
TS
ET
COP COPINE ● SINEQUANONE ●
R UE DU F OU
LOUIS VUITTON ●
E
BI
GALERIE CATHERINE HOUARD ●
R
ON FRANCIS KLEIN ● AP AR FABRICE ● T
MABILLON
ELEVEN PARIS ● DARMON ● AN’GE ● CAREL ●
COCCINELLE ●
BIE
CHRISTOFLE BIJOUX ●
AU VIEUX CAMPEUR ● MAXIMILIEN ● DE FURSAC ● CAROLL ●
JO
RUE DU FO UR
THIERRY LASRY ●
Le Bon March é
Featured In This Issue
S H O P | 47
LAVINIA
Rue Bonaparte
SK I ● SWAR OV HE ● AP OS TR OP ● FA BR IC E ● BE RT RA ND AR TH US ● DI NH VA N TR ES ● LE S M ON ER IN ● DI DI ER GU
● AG AT HA ● SE IKO AR ● CI TY PH
RUE B O N A PARTE
A● M AX M AR AM .P M ● ● LO PO M AR C O‘ RE ST ● ST EL LA FO LA ● LO Y BI M BA ● BE RE NI CE FI NE ● ● S UT TS HA LE S PE TI IE RS LE S AT EL E ● LL AI M DE LA D● M OL IN AR RM É ● PI ER RE HE R● TE LA NC AS
Lavinia’s core aim has always been to offer the best wine from the best makers. Founded in 1999 by Pascal Chevrot and Thierry Servant, and now run by Charlotte Servant, Lavinia works directly with vineyards and producers to verify the provenance of everything it sells. With 5,000 wines from more than 30 countries, as well as 1,500 spirits from across the globe, the efforts made by Lavinia’s sommeliers to find the best and most exciting wines are self-evident. fm
RU E
DU F
MA
OUR
FO R ● W HAT OI ● M AX &M ÇA IS RD FR AN ● JA CQ UA M E TA M TA SS CE IN ● PR ● M KT ● ZA PA A ● GA RE LL ● IV OI RE IN GS ● NI CE TH C FI LATU RE S TI ● M AJ ES ● BA &S H ● IN DI ES LI ● M IN EL ON AC O ● AP M M RE ID ES ● LE S NE R DE S OI PT CO M IE RS ● CO TO NN
Lavinia, 3 boulevard de la Madeleine, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4297 2020, lavinia.fr FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 44
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Rue des Saints-Pères & Rue de Rennes
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● CARTIER ● DEVERNOIS ● LANCEL ● ZARA ● ● MONTBLANC IX R P ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS O N ● ESTEBAN O M ● J M WESTON ● RU BY ● ● THE NINES EB X N ON G LE N ● I ● LE CREUSET A PA ● S O O E O RT E R D S ● D N O A N ZO ● FT L ● NAPAPIJRI S T L G EN ID E ● LO T ● MARCHAND DRAPIER E E K P K N P● LO A CK ● ICE WATCH GA A G EL E NN HA ● JB GUANTI M KI TT MA S O Y J O ● SIMONE PERELE R R LE X E ● BO CONCEPT IA NG GA ID EL N ● I B S ● WEEKEND MAX MARA D S O T L VA NL I E O I R ● AR ER É EM FO RU ● S AU R S D L E O R ● ● E D ● U I W ● M ● LEONIDAS E UN RA ● RO ● BU ● SO SS U ER ● E A ET RES ● ● É SE AD AR AD H K H TO B SAINT-SULPICE M OC NA ● PE PÉP S R O R T R JO UE ● IN I BA JI AM S DE ● FOSSIL H M PA Y R M SA S ● VE A S Y N ● S A I N YO YA C A T I F I PA S TS ● S O L RO O ● RI " ● A RM PÈ ● N MA É I A S ● A ● P RE BB A J DR ● ● E YE ME ● BRANDY MELVILLE Y E ● S SA R AN ON Y "E OM E ● RI OR ● TA ● M ST H B HE GE ● M NY E ● T E N F TE ● GEOX O JO E ● LI E A N IR Y ● E & E E JO NET B AD R AM VA UL ● O IQU AIN ● HENRY PHILIPPE JA TO O ● PR ET L & GI PA E DR UT NT 78 A U L ● M N V G O O L GA N PA LE SA B B E F N B ER N SO SA R A ● ● I ● O N O R N A T ● R ’S ● AN E V TE RIZ M E EN X FE LL ● DY ● IAN RS D F RD NE E UR MA ● D F U AU FO RE RU LI L A RT AV A T ● I EG K ● T R D M I S IN ● E A LA G X N PO M I D ● 0 H RU U TB 6 ● N N SA S ● DJ H A N 1 7 AC ● AI CA R D ● S M ● S AL E EE ● UN JOUR AILLEURS ● RI TO SE ER CR AR HIS RO D● LI ● TE L B EP AN IE 'A L M L L Y L DA H A AU C
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PHOTO: YANN DERET
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globalblue.com
48 | G U I D E
OUR PARIS: CHLOÉ MAILLOT AND GUILLAUME RENAUDIN
‘When it comes to shopping, the Merci boutique at 111 boulevard Beaumarchais is our favourite boutique in Paris. They renew everything frequently, and there are always beautiful things to see.’ ‘In terms of architecture, we really like the post office on rue Castex. It’s in a superb art deco building. If you want to relax, visit Buttes Chaumont park.’ ‘If you’re looking for a place for a special dinner, we would
try Yam’Tcha restaurant, which looks excellent. It’s French-Chinese fusion cuisine. We watched the episode of TV show Chef’s Table: France about head chef Adeline Grattard, and, ever since, we’ve been dreaming of going there!’ ‘Our favourite spot for a late-night drink is the Moonshiner cocktail bar, hidden at the back of a pizzeria. Our secret Paris tip is Mary Gelateria on rue du
Temple; they have delicious ice cream, but few people know about them.’ ‘On a Sunday morning, walk along the banks of the Seine, beginning at the Port de l’Arsenal, then working your way up. You can even see a well-hidden anamorphosic design by artist Georges Rousse along the way.’ ‘Paris is filled with wonderful tourist attractions, and the one we feel is not to be missed is La Fée Electricité, a
Above (all): Yam’Tcha restaurant Right (clockwise from top left): interior and exterior of Merci; the beautiful Buttes Chaumont park
PHOTOS: (ALL CENTRE) YAM’TCHA; (OPPOSITE TOP RIGHT AND LEFT) JEROME GALLAND
Famed for its impeccably crafted watch straps, bags, accessories and gloves, Camille Fournet is a must-discover Parisian label on your trip to the City of Light. The luxury French leather goods brand recently appointed young designers Chloé Maillot and Guillaume Renaudin to spearhead its new artistic direction. The duo, who have been collaborating since July 2018, talk to Sally McIlhone about their essential places to shop and things to see in Paris camillefournet.com
S H O P | 49
painting by Raoul Dufy, at the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris museum. We love frescoes and monumental works – particularly that one, which we find quite magical. We also really like the Perrotin gallery.’ ‘We’re trying to move towards bags that are a bit suppler. We get inspiration for our designs by going to exhibitions in Paris; by observing people in the way they go about their daily life, the way they carry their handbags; or even by experimenting through modelling, first working in paper, then in leather. The Emblem clutch in smooth cream calfskin is our favourite piece from the latest collection. It’s very elegant and easy to wear. All of Paris is elegant!’ globalblue.com
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Change Group 150 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris 50 rue de la Chaussée d’Antin, 75009 Paris 80 rue de Provence, 75009 Paris Cash Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport Terminal 1 for groups and individuals Terminal 2AC, BAT junction Terminal 2E, Hall K Terminal 2E, Hall L Terminal 2E, Hall M Terminal 2E, public area Orly Airport Orly Sud 53 56
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TRANSLATIONS
中文翻译
26: MENSWEAR MOMENT 男装时刻 从举 世闻名的传统大 牌，到新 锐前卫的 街头潮牌，巴黎男装周正成为时尚行业 的焦点，Rebecca Rhys- Evans报 道
官 宣了：男装 正 出尽风 头。从引得 实体店 运 动 鞋 销 量 激 增的Instagram热 潮，到新 一代 男士 护 理 产品等方兴未艾 的趋 势，男士用品行业 发 展 得 红 红 火火。近年来，有不少 新闻 预言，某 些男士 专场时装 周的价值 将有所下降；可恰 恰 相反，巴 黎男装 周却 蒸 蒸日上。 伦敦 和纽 约十分 倚重 初 露锋芒的年 轻 人 才，而巴 黎的新 老 结 构则 更 加均 衡。巴 黎不 仅 有众多名声斐然 的法国设 计师，也 汇 聚了 顶尖 国际 奢 侈品牌，包括来自美国的 Thom Browne 和 Rick Owens，来自英国的Paul Smith和 JW Anderson，来自西 班 牙的Loewe，以 及 来自德国 的 Jil Sanders；此 外，秀 场上 还有几家来自日本 和 斯 堪 的纳维 亚半岛的品牌。巴 黎男装 周可谓 全 球男装 行业 的焦点 所在。 赫 赫 有名的 创意 大佬 和崭露头角的后起 之 秀 云 集巴 黎男装 周，秀 场上高级 感 与新潮 范 兼 备，从定制 西服 到前卫穿 搭，种 种风 格 款 式令 人 眼花 缭 乱。巴 黎充 满 现代 风范 的街头服 装 上图: Solange Knowles为Kenzo 2020春夏系列走秀
行业 和 伦敦平 分秋色，而当地 久负 盛名的传 统 家 族品牌则 可与米 兰的同行分庭 抗 礼。这两点 在 Virgil Abloh身上体 现 得 淋 漓 尽致，这位 知名 设 计师 不 仅经营着自己的新 锐潮牌Off-White， 还在传 统法国时尚巨头 路易威 登（Louis Vuitton）担任男装 艺 术总监。或许有人会 说， 所有 的时尚都 市 都同样 包 罗万象；但 纵 观巴 黎 时装 周在 最 近 几个季度中展现 出的多元 性与 开拓 性，很 少有 哪 场时尚盛 事能与之 相比。 2019/20年 秋冬 季的各品牌系列亮点纷繁， 例 如Hedi Slimane在Celine打造 的 首个男装系 列，他 在其中展现了自己标 志性 的 精湛 剪 裁。Slimane已 经在 Saint Laurent证明了自己的 非凡 才华，来到Celine后他 秉 持自己的审 美 风 格，为各种 类 型的男士提 供干练 笔 挺 的西 装。 细 条 纹 款、双 排 扣款、修身款 和超 大尺寸 款一 应俱 全，堪 称一场为所有人准 备 的西 装 盛 宴。 巴 黎 秀 场上 的各大男装品牌 融 汇了奇妙 缤 纷 的 创意 才华。Dior Homme、Berluti、Paul Smith和 Dunhil的 2019/20年 秋冬 季系列都为西 装赋 予了一股 现代气 息，让 经典风 格 强 势回 归。在 今 年的冬 装系列中，Paul Smith 和 Berluti都选 择了让 人倍感 温 暖 惬 意的配色 与面
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料，推出引人注目的羔 羊 毛大衣、皮夹克 和 饰 有 抽 象 花卉图案的西 装。至于来 年春 季，两家 品牌展现了80年 代 风 格 的廓 形 与 极具高级 感 的素 雅色调。 各大品牌 在 这个 六月展 望2020年春夏季， 呈现了又一 个 精 彩 纷呈的时装 周。Kenzo带来 了由创意 总监Carol Lim和 Humberto Leon操刀 的最 后 一场大秀 — —自2011年以 来，这 对 设 计 搭档 一直 在幕后引领着 该品牌 的商业 宏图；说 他们 是 激 流 勇退、功成 身 退尚且 显得 有些 轻 描 淡写。在 这 场大秀上，索兰格（Solange）出 人 意 料地 现 身T台，为两 万多名观 众 上演了一 场 惊 喜表演，台下坐着的人中不乏歌 星 MIA等 各界名流。 Simon Porte Jacquemus为巴 黎男装 周添 上 了点睛之笔。他 邀请了众多时尚编 辑 和网红， 来到阳光明媚 的普罗旺 斯 薰 衣 草 花田，共同庆 祝他的同名品牌 创立十周年。他的 T台就 是 一 条足足有三分之一英 里长的浅 莲 红色 地 毯，贯 穿于不 可胜收的绝 美背景之中；哪怕是 透 过 Instagram上 那 些 令人惊 叹的照 片，你 都 仿佛能 真切地闻到馥 郁 芬 芳。蜜 蜂 嗡 嗡低 吟，模 特 摇 曳 生姿，整 个时尚界都 注 视 着Jacquemus在 这 场 十 年庆典上 施 展 魔力，呈现 出巴 黎男装 周有 史以 来 最令人叹为观 止 的大秀之一。 前所 未有地，时尚界 的焦点似乎由女 装 转 移 到了男装。“传 统 上，男装 市场 要比女 装 市场 小 得多，但 随 着女 装 行业 发 展 放 缓，男装的生 意 就 扩张开 来。”GQ杂志 主编 Dylan Thomas 解 释 道，“当然，这都是有原因的，而且 原因只 有一 个：顾客的需 求。如 今的男士期 望看到各 种 价位 的优 质服 装，无论是高街、中端市场、 设 计师品牌、奢 侈品牌还 是定制剪 裁。他们 期 待 各 个价位 的优 质产品，而目前来 看，市场 似 乎正在实现 这一点。” 在 这 样 一 个作 秀、联名合作 与限 量 营 销的 时代，在 社 交 媒 体主导的炒 作 宣传 随 处可见的 今 天，Abloh和 迪奥 的Kim Jones等男装设 计师 吸引的关注 度 丝 毫不逊 于顶尖 女 装创意人 士。 伦敦以创意 著 称，纽 约 拥 商业为王，米 兰 以传 统为主导 — —而当今的巴 黎则看上去兼 有这 三者所 长。在 这 里，Vetements、Pigalle Paris和 Raf Simons等 锐 意 进 取 的品牌 创造了一 种 氛围，激 励更具古典气 质的设 计师们 更 进一 步；而每 个季度 观 众们 离开“光 之 城 ”时，无不 对巴 黎的下一场时装 周盛 事 感 到更 加心潮澎 湃。在法国首都，在 这 样 一座 创意 才华 的熔 炉，男装的未 来 看 起 来一片明朗。
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Scan the QR code to subscribe to Global Blue’s official WeChat services. Receive the latest shopping and tax refund information. Track and manage your refund, and get §online customer service and other tax refund services.
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50: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您 在 全 球 顶 级 购物区中的30多万家商店消费 时，环 球 蓝联购物 退 税 服 务（Global Blue Tax Free Shopping）为 您节省购物 开 销。 每 年大 约有两千六百多万名游 客 享用环 球 蓝联 (Global Blue）的购物 退 税 服 务，何不加入他们 的行列？您只需 在 购物时留意 环 球 蓝联 (Global Blue）的蓝 星标 志，或 直 接问询商家是 否提 供 环 球 蓝联（Global Blue）退 税 服 务，然 后 遵 循以 下简单 的退 税流 程即 可： 1. 购物 消费 无论 您 在哪里 购物，请向商家索要 环 球 蓝联 退 税 表格（Global Blue Tax Free Form），并 保存 好购物票 据。 2. 申领 退 税 在 您 返 程离境前，请 前往 海 关柜台，出示 退 税 表格和 相关票 据，获 取海 关印章，然 后再到环 球 蓝联 的退 税 点领 取 退 税 款。 联 系方式： taxfree@ globalblue. com +421 232 111 111 最低消费175. 01欧 元即 可申请 退 税，能 够 节省 高达12%的商品购买 价。请注 意：您 收 到的退 税 款 是 增 值 税减去环 球 蓝联 的手 续费。如果您 选 择 现 金 退 税，部 分机 场 还 将以 退 税申请 表为单 位收取 现 金 退 税手 续费。
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РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 26: MENSWEAR MOMENT ЛОВИ МОМЕНТ
От всемирно известных домов моды до брендов уличной одежды, Парижская неделя мужской моды набирает все большую популярность, – рассказывает Ребекка Риз-Эванс Мужская мода переживает невиданную популярность, начиная от дропов кроссовок, раскручивающихся через Instagram, и заканчивая средствами по уходу за волосами. И несмотря на недавние прогнозы о спаде интереса к мужским модным событиям, популярность Парижской Недели моды с каждым годом только растет. Если Лондон и Нью-Йорк традиционно делают ставку на новые таланты, то в Париже сохраняется определенный баланс между разными поколениями дизайнеров. Престижные французские модельеры представляют свои коллекции наряду с ведущими модными брендами, включая Thom Browne и Rick Owens из США, Paul Smith и JW Anderson из Великобритании, Loewe из Испании и Jil Sander из Германии. Ряд японских и скандинавских лейблов также фигурируют в показах, что еще больше усиливает позиции Парижской Недели мужской моды. Мужские показы в Париже с их выдающимися креативными директорами, восходящими талантами и мириадами стилей рождают изысканные и стильные образы. Париж конкурирует с Лондоном по части современного streetwear, и практически не уступает Милану по количеству традиционных домов моды. Похожую разносторонность можно наблюдать у дизайнера Вирджил Абло. Помимо собственного лейбла Off-White, он руководит мужской линией классического французского дома Louis Vuitton. Возможно, для всех модных столиц мира характерны подобные тенденции, однако не многие мероприятия смогут похвастаться таким же уровнем многогранности и разносторонности, какой можно было наблюдать в Париже на протяжении последних нескольких сезонов. globalblue.ru
Коллекции осень-зима 2019/20 были полны ярких моментов. Взять, к примеру, дебютный мужской показ Эди Слимана для Celine, на котором дизайнер представил серию фирменных смокингов. Не раз доказав гениальность во время сотрудничества с Saint Laurent, Слиман остался верен свой эстетике и в Celine. В новую коллекцию вошли рубашки в тонкую полоску, а также приталенные и свободные двубортные пиджаки на любой вкус. Участники последних мужских показов были самые разношерстные. В коллекциях осень-зима 2019/20 Dior Homme, Berluti, Paul Smith и Dunhill способствовали эффектному возвращению классического стиля с акцентом на строгий тейлоринг в современной интерпретации. Paul Smith и Berluti заготовили для зимнего сезона яркий коктейль красок и текстур: нарядные дубленки, кожаные куртки и костюмы с абстрактным цветочным принтом. В ожидании весны бренды представили практически
Впервые за долгие годы интерес публики стал смещаться в сторону мужских коллекций кутюрные силуэты в духе 1980х в сочетании с пастельными оттенками. В преддверии сезона весна-лето 2020 июньские показы подарили еще одну неделю ярких событий. Kenzo показало финальную коллекцию арт-директоров Кэрол Ким и Умберто Леона, которые задавали тон бренда с 2011 года. Сказать, что показ прошел на ура было бы преуменьшением. Выступление Solange перед 20-тысячной толпой стало большим сюрпризом для зрителей, среди которых было немало знаменитостей, включая певца MIA. Симон Порт Жакмю закрыл Парижскую Неделю мужской моды, пригласив редакторов и инфлюенсеров на утопающие в солнечных лучах лавандовые поля Прованса, чтобы отпраздновать десятилетие своего одноименного бренда. Ярко-розовая ковровая дорожка протянулась на пол километра между великолепных декораций, настолько ярких, что сделанные для Instagram фото буквально источали аромат цветов. Вокруг
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Такие бренды, как Vetements, Pigalle Paris и Raf Simons создают невероятную атмосферу, которая побуждает классических дизайнеров постоянно двигаться дальше, и с каждым новым сезоном публика покидает город любви в восторженном ожидании следующей Недели моды. Можно не сомневаться, что в этом уникальном плавильном котле талантов мужскую моду ожидает безоблачное будущее.
50: WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE
PHOTO: GORUNWAY.COM
СОВЕРШАЯ ПОКУПКИ ПО ВСЕМУ МИРУ, СОВЕРШАЙТЕ ИХ С TAX FREE
жужжали пчелы, по дорожке проплывали модели, а завороженные гости с вниманием наблюдали за тем, как Жакмю творил чудеса уже десятый год подряд, руководя одним из самых впечатляющих шоу-показов в истории мужских недель моды. Впервые за долгие годы интерес публики стал смещаться в сторону мужских коллекций. «Индустрия мужской одежды всегда была заметно скромнее женской, но с замедлением последней мужской сегмент бизнеса стал значительно расширяться, – поясняет Дилан Томас, главный редактор GQ. – Это, конечно, было вызвано только одним фактором: потребительским спросом. В наше время мужчины ожидают от модной индустрии качественной одежды во всех ценовых категориях, будь то массмаркет, мидмаркет, дизайнерский бренд, люкс или bespoke. Для них важно качество по любой цене, и рынок, похоже, это обеспечивает». В эпоху шоу-показов, коллабораций, дропов и социальных сетей дизайнеры, такие как Абло и Ким Джонс из Dior, привлекают не меньше внимания, чем ведущие модельеры женской одежды. Лондон славится креативным уличным стилем, Нью-Йорк – успешными коммерческими проектами, Милан – классическими традициями, ну а Париж, пожалуй, единственное место на сегодняшний день, где все это собрано воедино. Сверху: Berluti осень-зима 2019/20
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Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите Tax Free форму Global Blue и сохраните чеки. 2. При выезде
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PHOTO: JACQUEMUS/GORUNWAY.COM
Slimaneوفيًّا ألسلوبه يف دار Celineبتقديم بذّات أنيقة تناسب الرجال عىل اختالف أذواقهم ،وتشمل تلك املقلّمة واملز ّودة بخطّني من األزرار والضيّقة والواسعة – مجموعة رائعة تناسب الجميع بالفعل! أظهرت العالمات التجاريّة الرجاليّة خالل العروض، تن ّو ًعا استثنائيًّا يف املواهب .وقد عاد األسلوب التقليدي إىل الساحة إنّ ا بلمسة حداثة ،وذلك مع عرض Diorللرجال و Berlutiو Paul Smithو Dunhillملجموعاتهم ملوسم خريف/شتاء 2019/2020التي وعدت بتقديم بذّات أنيقة بلمسة عرصيّة. كل من Paul Smithو Berlotiهذا الشتاء ق ّدم ّ مزيجاً متناقضاً إنّ ا دافئاً بألوانه وأقمشته ،يض ّم معاطف سميكة من فرو الغنم وأخرى من الجلد ،وبذّات مطبّعة برسوم األزهار التجريديّة .وتتطلع العالمتان إىل الخريف من خالل اعتامد أزياء استوحت تصاميمها األنيقة وألوانها الباستيل الهادئة من مثانينيّات القرن العرشين. ومتهيدا ً لتشكيلة ربيع/صيف ،2020أحدثت عروض حزيران/يونيو أسبوعا ً بارزًا آخر .ق ّدمت دار Kenzo عرضها األخري بإرشاف مديري االبتكار لديها Carol Lim و ،Humberto Leonاملصممني اللذين كانا وراء النجاح التجاري الباهر الذي حققته هذه العالمة منذ سنة ،2011 ّ وقد أحدثت مغادرتهام الدار ما هو أصخب من ضجة بكثري .تض ّمن العرض مفاجأة متثّلت يف إطاللة للمغنية األمريكية Solangeأمام جمهور ض ّم حوايل 20ألف مشاهد ،وال سيام عدد من املشاهري كاملغنية .MIA أما Simon Porte Jacquemusفاختتم أسبوع املوضة الرجاليّة يف باريس بدعوة مجموعة مختارة من محرري املوضة ومؤثري وسائل التواصل االجتامعي إىل حقول الخزامى املشمسة يف ريف الربوفانس الفرنيس، لالحتفال مبرور عقد عىل إطالق العالمة التي تحمل اسمه. وكانت منصة العرض عبارة عن سجادة ذات لون أرجواين مائل إىل الزهري ،متت ّد عىل مساحة ثلث ميل ،وسط الديكور الطبيعي الرائع ،مام أمثر صورا ً عىل انستغرام يخيّل للناظر إليها أنّها تعبق بأريج األزهار .وفيام كان النحل يط ّن يف خالل العرض ،مشت العارضات عىل املنصة أمام أنظار العاملني يف قطاع األزياء .وقد شكّل هذا العرض الساحر لـ Jacquemusأحد أجمل العروض يف تاريخ أسبوع األزياء الرجاليّة. وللمرة األوىل ،بدا أن قطاع األزياء ينقل تركيزه من املوضة النسائية إىل الر ّجالية .وأوضح رئيس تحرير مجلة GQاملتخصصة يف املوضة الر ّجالية :Dylan Thomas “لطاملا كان سوق األزياء الرجالية أصغر بكثري من السوق النسايئ ،ولكن يف ظل تباطؤ السوق النسايئ ،ها إن السوق الر ّجايل يأخذ بالتوسع” .وأضاف“ :يعود ذلك بالطبع إىل أمر واحد ووحيد ،وهو طلب املستهلك .فالرجال يف أيامنا هذه يتوقعون مالبس رائعة بأسعار تناسب كافة املستويات ،إن عىل مستوى املالبس الفاخرة ،أو العادية ،أو أزياء املصممني الراقية أو تلك املص ّممة حسب القياس وعىل الطلب. فالرجال يتوقعون نوعية جيدة بأي سعر ،وحتى اآلن يبدو أن السوق يلبّي طلبهم”.
ويف عرص تتخلّله العروض وأعامل التعاون واإلصدارات املحدودة ،وسط صخب وسائل التواصل االجتامعي ،يستحوذ املصممون مثل Ablohو( Kim Jonesمن دار )Dior عىل اهتامم مامثل لذاك الذي يحظى به مصممو األزياء النسائية. وفيام تشتهر لندن بإبداعها وتشكل نيويورك العنوان األبرز تجارياً ويطغى الطابع التقليدي عىل أزياء ميالنو ،تعترب كل هذه امليزات باريس اليوم املدينة الوحيدة التي توفّر ّ مجتمعة .ففيها ،تساهم العالمات التي تتخطى الحدود التقليدية ،مثل” ”Vetementsو””Pigalle Paris و” ،”Raf Simonsيف توفري مناخ يشجع املصممني الذين مييلون أكرث إىل الكالسيكيّة ،عىل القيام بخطوات خارجة عن كل موسم وهو املألوف .ويغادر جمهور املوضة مدينة األنوار ّ أش ّد لهفة ألسبوع األزياء الر ّجالية املقبل .ويف هذه البوتقة من املواهب ،يبدو مستقبل املوضة الر ّجالية يف العاصمة الفرنسية مرشقاً.
WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE :50
عندما تتس ّوق حول العامل، تس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة
تقدّم لك غلوبل بلو Global Blueخدمة التس ّوق من دون دفع الرضيبة Tax Freeلتدّخر املال لدى تس ّوقك يف أكرث من 300,000متجر يف أبرز مناطق التس ّوق حول العامل. فل َم ال تنض ّم إىل الـ 26مليون مسافر الذين يتس ّوقون من دون كل سنة؟ دفع الرضيبة من خالل غلوبل بلو ّ Global Blue ما عليك إال أن تبحث عن النجمة الزرقاء أو تسأل عن غلوبل بلو Global Blueوتتبع خطواتنا السهلة. .1تس ّوق أينام تس ّوقت ،أطلب الحصول عىل طلب اس”داد الرضيبة الخاص بغلوبل بلو Global Blueوتذكّر أن تحتفظ ّ باإليصاالت. .2أطلب يف طريق العودة إىل وطنك ،أقصد مكتب الجامرك عند نقطة املغادرة لتتم املصادقة عىل إيصاالتك قبل قبض االس”داد من الخاصة بنا. أحد مكاتب االس”داد ّ لالتّصال:
taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 أنفق ح ّدا ً أدىن قدره 175.01يورو وادّخر حتّى 12%من مثن
مش”ياتك .يشمل مبلغ االس”داد النهايئ الذي ستحصل عليه مجموع الرضيبة عىل القيمة املضافة ناقص رسم إداري .يف بعض املطارات ،يُفرض رسم خدمة نقدي عىل كل طلب اس”داد رضيبة يف حال رغبت بالحصول عىل اس”داد فوري نقدي. globalblue.com
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ترجمة باللغة العرب ّية
MENSWEAR MOMENT :26
كُن أنيقًا!
من العالمات التجاريّة العريقة املعروفة عامل ًّيا إىل تلك املبتكرة بأسلوب “،”streetwear يتصدّ ر أسبوع باريس لألزياء الرجال ّية قطاع املوضة ،وفقًا لتقرير Rebecca Rhys-Evans
يف األعىل 2020 :فيص/عيبر Jacquemus
PHOTO: XXXX
ال ّ شك أ ّن املالبس الرجاليّة تحقّق اليوم نجاحاً غري مسبوق .فقطاع األعامل هذا يف ازدهار مطّرد .وذلك منصة “انستغرام” التي تزيد واضح من خالل تأثري ّ مبيعات األحذية الرياضية يف املتاجر ،أو من خالل موضة رشاء منتجات الحالقة الرجالية .وبعكس ما ورد مؤخّرا ً من أخبار تتح ّدث عن انخفاض قيمة بعض أسابيع املوضة الرجاليّة ،فا ّن أسبوع باريس لألزياء الرجاليّة يحقّق نجا ًحا تلو اآلخر. يف حني تركّز مدينتا لندن ونيويورك عىل املواهب الناشئة ،تق ّدم باريس برنام ًجا أكرث توازنًا يض ّم القديم والجديد عىل ح ّد سواء .تجد املص ّممني الفرنسيّني الراقني يعرضون جنباً إىل جنب العالمات التجاريّة العامليّة الفاخرة ،عىل سبيل Thom Browneو Rick Owensمن الواليات املتّحدة و Paul Smith و J.W Andersonمن اململكة املتّحدة و Loewe فضال عن من إسبانيا و Jil Sanderمن أملانيا .ذلك ً مام يضع العالمات التجاريّة اليابانيّة واالسكندنافيّة ّ أسبوع باريس لألزياء الرجاليّة يف قلب الساحة العاملية للمالبس الرجاليّة. وبفضل مدراء االبتكار الالمعني والنجوم الصاعدين واملوضة املتنوعة التصاميم ،يق ّدم أسبوع باريس لألزياء الرجاليّة عروض أزياء تقليدية راقية وعرصيّة مبتكرة يف الوق“ عينه .حتّى أنّه ينافس لندن يف مجال املالبس العرصية “ ،”Streetwearوميالنو املعروفة بدور املوضة التقليديّة الخاصة بها والتي تديرها العائالت. ويجسد املص ّمم الشهري Virgil Ablohهذه املقاربة ّ الثنائيّة ،إذ يق ّدم يف الوق“ نفسه عالمته العرصيّة “ ”Off-Whiteوتصاميم Louis Vuittonالفرنسيّة التقليديّة الراقية ،حيث يعمل كمدير ف ّني لقسم املالبس كل عواصم املوضة تق ّدم الرجالية .قد يقول البعض إ ّن ّ مجموعة واسعة كهذه ،غري أنه ال ميكن إالّ لحفنة من العروض أن تضاهي التن ّوع والريادة التي أظهرتها باريس يف املواسم األخرية. ق ّدم“ مجموعات خريف/شتاء 2020 /2019 العديد من املزايا ،منها خط األزياء الرجالية Celine الجديد للمصمم Hedi Slimaneالذي يربز مهاراته الرائعة يف خياطة البذات الرجالية الكالسيكيّة .بعد أن أظهر إبداعه يف دار أزياء ،Saint-Laurentبقي
SO U V E N I R
Wish You Were Here
A simple T-shirt emblazoned with the name of a destination has long been a souvenir staple. For a fashion-forward update on a timeless take-home item, Parisian label Balmain’s lilac sweater is the perfect choice. The pictured on-trend pastel shade will see you through the season ahead, and classic black and white versions are also available. With the house’s Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 50
sleek, modern updated logo across the front, as well as the city, there is no better reminder of your time in the French capital of style. lt Balmain sweater, €890, Balmain, 44 rue François 1er, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4720 5758, balmain.com FOR MAP GO TO PAGE 41
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12, BOULEVARD DES CAPUCINES – PARIS 9E bucherer.com