SHOP Paris Lux SS15

PARIS | ПАРИЖ | 巴黎 | パリ

PARIS Luxury Edition Spring/Summer 2015

Page 43 HOT COUTURE: why Paris is cutting it once again

If you are looking for a wide selection of exquisite timepieces and FINe jewellery, you only need to keep one name in mind.

For more than 135 years, the name

purchase jewellery or timepieces. Our

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nal standards and are born in our own

and timepieces. We offer a unique

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selection of valuable treasures at 28

a-kind items as well as for our diverse

Wempe showrooms world-wide. We are

assortment of classic pieces with

especially proud because for more than

brilliant-cut diamonds. And a century-

a century we have been privileged to

old friendship links us with the world’s

contribute to the grand feelings that

foremost watch manufactories. You will

our customers express when they

find WEMPE showrooms at the loveliest

We accept all credit cards.

locations in great European metropolises,

to discover an abundance of interesting

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new items and exclusive special models at

also offers service or advice whenever you

one of Europe’s leading jewellers. Please

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Paris 16, rue Royale T +33.1.42 60 21 77 paris@wempe.fr Hamburg London Paris New York Beijing wempe.com

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EDITOR’S LETTER Athens and Thessaloniki Austria Austrian Alps Barcelona Belgium Berlin Buenos Aires Cologne Copenhagen

Чехия Düsseldorf Estonia Frankfurt French Riviera

‫دليل ألانيا‬ 德国指南

Welcome to Paris Maybe you’re already familiar with Paris, or perhaps it’s the frst time you’ve visited this glamorous fashion hub. Either way, SHOP magazine is sure to ofer something to surprise you. Learn how France’s hautecouture business is enjoying a resurgence in our feature on page 42, discover the ‘concept street’ that’s causing a buzz among the city’s food and wine connoisseurs on page 50, and fnd out about the latest designerlabel store openings in our news pages.

SHOP is part of Global Blue, the Tax Free Shopping market leader that helps you save an average of 12% when shopping in France.

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Our international insider knowledge means we are ideally placed to tell you about the top global brands you’ll fnd in Paris. For the very latest information, visit globalblue.com.

Be sure to sign up for your free Global Blue Card for the simplest way to shop tax free without flling in Tax Free Forms by hand, and enjoy exclusive members-only discounts and promotions too: visit globalblue.com/join.

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ILLUSTRATION: EMMANUEL ROMEUF

CONTRIBUTORS

Beth Druce Beth Druce is a fashion and luxury writer, and also works as a consultant for a variety of luxury fashion companies.

After gaining an MA from Central Saint Martins in London, she began her career at GQ magazine. globalblue.com

Gwyneth Holland Journalist and trend consultant Gwyneth Holland works with leading brands and agencies to discover the future, as well as writing for global fashion and trend publications. She is a founder of new fashion trends service Unique Style Platform.

Emmanuel Romeuf Emmanuel Romeuf created this season’s cover illustration for SHOP Paris Luxury. His award-winning artwork has previously been commissioned

by Warner Music, Helena Rubinstein and Toyota, among others. His thoughtful detail and the playfulness of his concepts make him the perfect illustrator for this cover, inspired by our feature about haute couture on page 43. It shows various fabrics coming together on a woman to form a dress, showing the attention to detail that’s characteristic of couture clothing.

Read more about our cover illustrations at globalblue.com/covers.

Harriet Quick Esteemed fashion journalist Harriet Quick has held senior roles at the Guardian newspaper and British Vogue, where she was the title’s fashion features director for over a decade, so her fnger is frmly on the sartorial pulse.

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SHOP FLOOR E DI TOR I A L

PU BL ISH I NG

Editor-in-chief Emma Cheevers

Publisher James Morris

Managing editor Sally McIlhone

Online managing editor Kirsty Welsh

Cover illustrator Emmanuel Romeuf

Online production assistant Marina Nelson

Contributors Beth Druce, Gwyneth Holland, Harriet Quick

Online assistant Emily Scrivener Chinese editor Yuan Fang

Production editor Caterina Mazzolai

Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou

Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard

Chinese contributing editor Qingya He

Features editor Verity Hogan

Chinese translators Xun Ji, Yin Shi, Chenguang Yi, Yi Zhang

Fashion editor Ximena Daneri

Russian editor Anastasia Nemchenok

News editor Hannah Lewis

Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova

Fashion and news assistant Theresa Harold

Russian translators Diana Fitkulina, Teena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey Copy editors Katie Davis, Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew, Harriet O’Brien Picture editor Kirsty Andrews Creative editor/deputy picture editor Sarah Beyts

Country manager Eric Noyal Marketing sales manager Lucie Delahaye Marketing coordinators Juliette Pavageau, Patrice Simeon Global Blue France, 18 rue de Calais, 75009 Paris, France +33 (0)1 4161 5151

Chinese editorial assistants Yunhan Fang, Yangzi Liu

City guide and lifestyle editor Isabella Redmond Styles

Fashion and news intern Rebecca Fearn

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Japanese editor Kyoko Nishimoto Print Dane Consultancy Commercial editor Gemma Latham Commercial artworking assistant Aaron Carline AVP business development manager Patrice Janet

Assistant picture editor Grace Bird

Head of digital Eamonn Leacy

Chief Executive Officer David Baxby

Picture assistants Mónica R Goya, Sarah Walker

Digital campaign manager Nina Kobalia

Chief Traveller Officer Craig Le Grice

Art direction Design by S-T

Digital marketing executive Wenhan Zhang

Artwork editor Adam Dhaliwal Artworking assistants Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, George Trinick Artworking intern Samantha Junak

Digital marketing intern Anastasia Budieva Product manager Devesh Sankadecha Digital intern Sammy Ha Advertising and partnership manager Riccardo Canini

SHOP is published by Global Blue Group headquarters Global Blue SA, Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland Corporate registration number 5565726923 globalblue.com info@globalblue.com

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur afer publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide. All rights reserved. ©2015 Global Blue

PA R I S 2 AV E N U E M O N TA I G N E + 3 3 1 4 2898 34 5 PA L A I S D E S CO N G R E S + 3 3 1 4 0 6 8213 0 E S C A D A . COM

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CONTENTS

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

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P ROD U C T S 16 Check Out SHOP selects a standout piece from Paris this season 18 My Favourites Clara Molloy, co-founder of perfume brand Memo, reveals her top tips for spring/summer 2015 20 Products Key looks for the season, from fashion and footwear to jewellery and accessories 28 Street Style Our pick of the best dressed during Paris Fashion Week spring/summer 2015 N EWS 30 Shop Window One store not to be missed in Paris 32 News Seasonal updates on shops, services and new products Above: Chanel haute couture autumn/winter 2014/15

40 In Store ... ... with Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof in their rue d’Alger boutique F E AT U R E S 42 Cover Story: Beauty Calls Things are looking good in the world of haute couture thanks to a growing desire for exquisite one-of-a-kind creations, says Beth Druce 50 Food For Thought Paris’s latest gastronomic destination is rapidly becoming a magnet for gourmets from around the world. Gwyneth Holland discovers the story behind La Jeune Rue 56 Brave New World The creative partnership between Louis Vuitton and one of France’s most visionary designers is taking the heritage label into exciting territory, explains Harriet Quick

J U E R G E N TELLER

A curated series of photography by ANNIE LEIBOVITZ, JUERGEN TELLER and BRUCE WEBER

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CONTENTS E X PE R I E NCE 60 Sweet Thing Move over macaroons: éclairs are the new stars of the cake world, says Isabella Redmond Styles 64 Stay In Style SHOP’s guide to the world’s most exclusive hotels GU I DE 69 Maps and guides to the key shopping areas of Paris, plus SHOP’s unique view of the city’s sights 82 My City Chef Jemmy Brouet shares his Paris recommendations

ESSENTI A LS 86 How To Shop Tax Free The simple steps to saving money on your shopping T R A N S L AT I O N S 87 Русский Перевод 91 美文翻译 94 日本語翻訳 SOU V E N I R 98 The essential item to bring home

E N GL I S H | Р УС С К И Й | 中文

ONLINE

The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

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COMPETITIONS

Follow the Global Blue editors on the move for up-to-theminute shopping tips and insider information.

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16 | P RO D U C T S

CHECK OUT

BRIGHT THINKING One of this season’s must-haves is a pair of stylish party platforms, and this irresistible primary-coloured version from JC de Castelbajac is one of the best around. The shoes’ vibrant blues, reds and yellows combine to striking efect, whether you’re pairing them with a classic black dress for sophisticated elegance or with skinny jeans and a camisole for partying the night away. They refect the Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

very best of JC de Castelbajac’s new collection, which is visionary, inventive and inspired by a mix of urban and cosmic motifs. These bold heels also highlight the brand’s clear dedication to colour blocking this season, and are not to be missed. rf JC de Castelbajac shoes, price on request, JC de Castelbajac, 61 rue des Saints-Pères, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)9 6448 4854, jc-de-castelbajac.com * for map go to page 81

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MY FAVOURITES: Clara Molloy Clara and John Molloy founded their fragrance brand Memo in 2007 with the motto, ‘The journey is the destination.’ The name of the company was inspired by the way that scents can conjure up powerful memories – in particular, of a destination or mood. Clara has spent much of her life in Paris; she shares her unique perspective of the city with Theresa Harold 1

1. ‘I like the India Mahdavi store because it has this feminine, powerful touch’ India Mahdavi, 19 rue las Cases, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4555 8888, india-mahdavi.com

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2. ‘I am always thinking about the next fragrance.

French Leather, being the latest, is even more special to me’ Memo French Leather eau de perfum, 75ml, €180, Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4439 8000, memofragrances.com

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

3. ‘I like to choose a silk outft for travelling: very easy to wear and difcult to crease’ Dries Van Noten, 7 quai Malaquais, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4427 0040, driesvannoten.com

S H O P | 19

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4. ‘Fashion is fun for me.

I enjoy surprises and I don’t take it too seriously. The perfect accessory in my hand would probably be an Olympia Le-Tan handbag’ Olympia Le-Tan pencil clutch, €1,650, Olympia Le-Tan, Passage des Deux Pavillons, 5 rue des Petits-Champs, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4236 4292, olympialetan.com

5. ‘I always use Sisley for cosmetics; its Sisleÿa cream is amazing’ Sisley Sisleÿa Global Anti-Ageing Day Cream, €320, Galeries Lafayette, 40 boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 4282 3456, sisley-paris.com

PHOTOS: (TOP LEFT) © GORUNWAY.COM; (BOTTOM LEFT) NAYLA DESIREE 2014

6. ‘I love Buccellati in place Vendôme, but also in Venice or anywhere around the world. Its jewellery looks like lace, it’s pretty and delicate’ Buccellati ring, price on request, Buccellati, 4 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 1212, buccellati.com

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globalblue.com

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BOLT FROM THE BLUE Prints and textures will lift an outft from the ordinary to the extraordinary 1

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1. Rosantica necklace, €285, L’Eclaireur, 10 rue Boissy d’Anglas, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5343 0370, rosantica.com

3. Pinko Daumien jacket, €205, Pinko, 4 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4266 3211, pinko.it

2. G-Star denim skirt, €79.80, G-Star, 46 rue Étienne Marcel, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4221 4433, g-star.com

4. Miu Miu handbag, €1,400, Miu Miu, 92 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5862 5320, miumiu.com

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

5. Jimmy Choo Gala loafers, €425, Jimmy Choo, 34 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 0339, jimmychoo.com

PHOTO: (3) KARENBENGALL.COM

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S H O P | 21

BURNT SIENNA Balance the brightness of orange with earthy tones for a hot summer look

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PHOTOS: (1) RAFFAELLO; (4) VALENTINO GARAVANI

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1. M Missoni jumpsuit, €595, Galeries Lafayette, 40 boulevard Haussmann, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)1 4282 3215, m-missoni.com 2. Sportmax Code leather jacket, €539, Sportmax, 72 rue des Saints-Pères, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4549 2203, sportmax.com

globalblue.com

3. Furla handbag, €355, Furla, 281 rue Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4297 5047, furla.com

4. Valentino Garavani sneakers, €650, Valentino, 17-19 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 6461, valentino.com

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EVER THE GENTLEMAN These timeless pieces will take you from work to play with minimal efort but maximum style

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1. Hedon helmet, €369, Vintage Motors, 8bis boulevard Richard Lenoir, 75011 Paris, +33 (0)1 4929 9288, hedon.com

3. Salvatore Ferragamo sunglasses, €325, Salvatore Ferragamo, 46 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4312 9696, ferragamo.com

2. Burberry backpack, €1,795, Burberry, 56 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 7207 0021, burberry.com

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

4. Hackett blazer, €478, Hackett, 58 rue de Rennes, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 4549 1893, hackett.com

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SUN, SEA AND SAND

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Holidays are the perfect time to break out of a wardrobe rut, so follow our lead 4

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1. Fendi sunglasses, €350, Fendi, 51 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4952 8452, fendi.com

3. Chloé bracelet, €490, Chloé, 44 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 0008, chloe.com

2. Kenzo Trapeze basket bag, €595, Kenzo, 51 avenue George V, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 3349, kenzo.com

4. Bimba y Lola sandals, €125, Bimba y Lola, 17 rue Pavée, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4274 6541, bimbaylola.com

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

5. Monki scarf, €20, Monki, 96 rue de Provence, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 5332 8500, monki.com PHOTO: (3) STANISLAS WOLFF

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ROYAL MENAGERIE Turns heads wherever you go with these ferce-looking accessories

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1. Bulgari cocktail bag, €2,200, Bulgari, 40 avenue George V, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4952 9999, bulgari.com

3. Cartier ring, €13,200, Cartier, 13 rue de la Paix, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 5818 2300, cartier.com

2. Lanvin Sherwood necklace, €990, Lanvin, 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4471 3173, lanvin.com

4. Chopard watch, €18,750, Chopard, 1 place Vendôme, 75001 Paris, 33 (0)1 5535 2010, chopard.com

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

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5. Gucci scarf, €190, Gucci, 2 rue du Faubourg SaintHonoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4494 1470, gucci.com

PHOTOS: (1) MAURO FABBIO STUDIO; (3) VINCENT DE LA FAILLE © CARTIER

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THE EXCEPTION NOW HAS AN ADDRESS: 68 CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES - PARIS 8 e

THE L ARGEST SINGLE-BRAND PERFUMES AND COSMETICS BOUTIQUE IN THE WORLD

WWW.GUERLAIN.COM

PERFUMES - COSMETICS - SPA - RES TAURANT

28 | P RO D U C T S

Ladylike with an edge – that was the predominant theme outside the Paris fashion shows this season. Silhouettes were distinctly feminine, with an emphasis on the waist and a demure hemline. Janice Man mastered the look with a coordinating outft from Carven that fashed just the right amount of midrif

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

PHOTOS: MELANIE GALEA/THESTREETMUSE.IT

STREET STYLE

S H O P | 29

globalblue.com

30 | N E W S

PHOTO: KARIM DAHER

SHOP WINDOW

LONG LIVE LONGCHAMP Longchamp has opened a fagship store on one of the world’s most famous shopping streets: avenue des Champs-Élysées. As with its other fagships, the new store presents all of the label’s collections against a backdrop of specially commissioned artworks for an immersive shopping experience. However, out of respect to the cultural heritage of the avenue, the interior – which covers 500 square metres Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

spread over two foors – also retains many of its original features. Longchamp was founded in 1948 by Jean Cassegrain, and is still owned and run by the Cassegrain family. Today, it has expanded beyond leather goods to create shoes, ready-to-wear and jewellery; cementing its status as a global powerhouse, the French luxury brand now has more than 280 exclusive boutiques worldwide. th Longchamp, 77 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5376 2776, longchamp.com * for map go to page 74

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UPDATING THE CLASSICS When she was growing up in Rio de Janeiro, it was a passion for nature and the environment that frst set designer Anne Fontaine’s imagination alight. Having explored her native country, the Brazilian-born designer found a new life in Paris, where she discovered a long untouched collection of white shirts left by her husband’s grandmother. These were the inspiration behind her eponymous fashion label, which sees the classic white shirt as the centre of a woman’s wardrobe. Not to be limited, however, Fontaine’s oferings have developed far beyond this simple piece, as can be seen in her range of modern eveningwear.

Evening trousers have been in fashion for a while now, but few designers have worked the look quite as perfectly as Fontaine does here. hl Anne Fontaine, 396 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4261 1850, annefontaine.com * for map go to page 77

FINISHING TOUCH French favourite Miu Miu has expanded its presence in Paris with the opening of a bag and accessory shop in Le Bon Marché, the prestigious Parisian department store founded in 1838. Architect Roberto Baciocchi has excelled himself with his design, in which black marble foors and steel-framed mirrored display counters are paired with softer, more delicate nude tones to create an efect that’s intimate and stylish. Spot lighting ensures a bright, inviting ambience, and the brand’s love of gold damask is refected clearly in its presence on the walls and chairs. The shop carries new and classic lines, and is a must-visit destination for luxury-accessory collectors everywhere. rf Miu Miu, Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4439 8000, miumiu.com * for map go to page 80 Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

S H O P | 33

VIVA VALENTINO Inspired by the historical concept of the Grand Tour, which saw members of high society exploring Europe to soak up the cultural sights and sounds, the spring/ summer collection from Valentino referenced the icons of Italy. The intricate forms of the country’s historic architecture were refected in bold forals, while draped gowns were reminiscent of Roman dress. Coastal Italy found expression in motifs of starfsh, shells, ships and underwater creatures, with a seaside theme working comfortably on both formal attire and casualwear. The design team at Valentino has mastered modern femininity, and the skill behind this collection lies in the freshness it creates out of such traditional inspirations. No summer wardrobe is complete without a dress by Valentino. hl Valentino, 17-19 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4723 6461, valentino.com * for map go to page 75

WORLD OF LEICA The newly opened Leica store in Paris is an absolute must-visit for camera enthusiasts.

Experienced members of staf are on hand to provide guidance and demonstrations for photographers looking to buy a Leica camera for the frst time, upgrade to a newer model or expand their collection of lenses and accessories. A new addition to the Leica X family, the X-E model combines technical prowess with an elegant design and makes an ideal travelling companion thanks to its lightweight yet robust metal casing. A fast lens and large sensor with over 16.5 megapixels, combined with a simple operating system, makes this a compact camera capable of capturing detailed images at spontaneous moments. As well as all this, the store is also home to frequent exhibitions, showcasing work by everyone from fedgling artists to established names. gl globalblue.com

Leica, 105-109 rue du Faubourg Saint-HonorĂŠ, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 7772 2070, leica-camera.com

34 | N E W S

AMAZING GREYS The spring/summer collection from French label Camille Fournet gives centre stage to the label’s speciality: leather. Since 1945 the brand has produced its luxurious bags and small leather goods from workshops in northern France, and its craftspeople are truly masters of the art of leatherwork. This season’s ofering invokes the colours

of the ocean and seaside landscapes, from blues and turquoises to shades inspired by the sand and pebbles of a beach scene. Don’t miss out on the Callisto bag, which is sure to become an everyday essential, and looks modern and stylish in shades of grey. hl Camille Fournet, 5 rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 7376, camillefournet.com * for map go to page 77

Since launching BCBG Max Azria Group in 1989, Max Azria has become not only one of the most prolifc, but also one of the most successful American designers of his generation.

His numerous collections ofer between them eveningwear, cocktail dresses, sportswear, handbags, accessories and more. Since 2007 Azria, along with his wife and business partner Lubov, has also reinvigorated the Hervé Léger fashion house, making it a household name and a highly sought-after label once more.

The designer’s eponymous line, BCBG Max Azria, ofers a carefree bohemian aesthetic this season – perfect for city strolling on a warm summer day. mkh BCBG Max Azria, 14 boulevard de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4312 5520, bcbg.com * for map go to page 78 Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

PHOTOS: (FROM TOP) CHRISTOPHE CHARZAT; © GORUNWAY.COM

TO THE MAX

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YOU HEARD IT HERE Vertu is known the world over for its desirable luxury mobile phones, but this season the British brand is branching out and has launched a new range of Vertu V headphones in collaboration with Danish sound specialist Bang & Olufsen. As ever, Vertu’s latest ofering combines unrivalled luxury materials, including premium British lamb’s leather and aircraft-grade aluminium, with expert craftsmanship. Along with spectacular and powerful audio performance, which delivers crisp details and deep bass, the result is a pair of headphones that is not only beautiful to look at, but a joy to use. rp Vertu, 18 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4286 5666, vertu.com * for map go to page 78

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

JUST FOR HIM

Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

Luxury lifestyle brand Moncler has strengthened its position in the French capital with the opening of its frst Paris store dedicated exclusively to menswear. Located in the Marais district, the vast boutique is home to all of the label’s menswear lines, including mainline Moncler and Moncler Gamme Bleu, alongside an extensive range of accessories.

Natural materials have been used to create the elegant interior, with stone and wood refecting Moncler’s origins as an expert in outdoor clothing. Alongside its famous padded jackets, fashion-conscious gentlemen will be pleased to fnd a wide array of items perfect for spring/ summer, from lightweight casual garments to stylish sunglasses. hl Moncler, 11 rue des Archives, 75003 Paris, +33 (0)9 6410 5783, moncler.com

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ONE TO WATCH Established in 1875 by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, Audemars Piguet is the oldest luxury watch manufacturer to have never left the hands of its founding families.

During the 140 years since its inception, the company has achieved multiple world frsts, including the creation of the thinnest wristwatch. It is this spirit of innovation and creative engineering that spurred the production of the Millenary collection.

Designed, developed and produced entirely in-house, the timepiece has been built in such a way that the elements usually concealed by the back are now revealed at the front. Available in stainless steel with a black crocodile leather strap, or in 18-carat pink gold with a brown crocodile leather strap, the Millenary 4101 is a truly sophisticated timepiece. th Audemars Piguet, 380 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4020 4545, audemarspiguet.com * for map go to page 77

MODERN MAN German fashion label Hugo Boss is famed the world over for its sharp tailoring and ability to combine functionality with fashion. Its latest Boss menswear collection has taken inspiration from the music world; hip aspiration meets downtown cool this season, with half-lined coats and tumbled slim-ft jackets – both key pieces – creating the perfect balance between tailored and casual. As you would expect, tailoring is still a strong element in the brand’s menswear ofering, with expertly cut suits and overcoats. However, it is the detailed, casual and sport-inspired pieces that give the collection a more contemporary edge, with Breton stripes, leather varsity jackets and panelled sweatshirts leading the pack for spring/summer 2015. rp Hugo Boss, 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4703 6720, hugoboss.com * for map go to page 77 globalblue.com

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Designer Olympia LeTan, best known for her truly original accessories, recently opened her frst store in Paris. The intimate all-pink boutique, created by her father Pierre Le-Tan, a famous artist and illustrator, is designed to look like the inside of a doll’s house.

The store stocks Le-Tan’s ready-to-wear collections, accessories lines, and the

CUTTING LOOSE Ermenegildo Zegna understands tailoring better than most, making it perfectly placed to play with the boundaries of the art. Z Zegna, the brand’s directional ready-to-wear line, has eschewed the formalities of traditional tailoring this season for an altogether more sporting aesthetic. The collection ventures into digitally printed hooded anoraks and textured knitted cardigans in a palette of emerald greens and deep blues with fashes of metallics and neon, and even the more traditional twobutton sports jackets and tailored trousers are designed to be worn with on-trend sneakers. rp Ermenegildo Zegna, 50 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4451 1991, zegna.com * for map go to page 77

iconic book-shaped clutch bags with which she made her name. It is also the only place in the city where fans can fnd the full range of her collaboration with Disney, a range of handbags and clutches inspired by her favourite childhood animations: Alice in Wonderland, Sleeping Beauty, Peter Pan and Snow White and the Seven Dwarves. hl Olympia Le-Tan, Passage des Deux Pavillons, 5 rue des Petits-Champs, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4236 4292, olympialetan.com Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

PHOTOS: (LEFT) NAYLA DESIREE 2014; (RIGHT) © GORUNWAY.COM

YOUNG AT HEART

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SIMPLY COOL January this year saw the opening of a new Maison Kitsuné store in a stunning listed building built in 1862 by celebrated French architect Viollet-le-Duc. Home to both the men’s and women’s collections as well as Café Kitsuné, the space is warm and inviting, decorated in shades of lapis blue and carmine red.

Kitsuné’s clothing is loved for its laid-back French style, ofering the kind of garments that seem simple on the hanger yet perfect when worn. An exclusive, limited-edition Maison Kitsuné Condorcet Paris capsule collection was created to celebrate the opening, so pay a visit before it’s all gone. hl Maison Kitsuné, 68 rue Condorcet, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 4526 1129, kitsune.fr

THE ART OF JEWELLERY Set up by Charlotte Dauphin de la Rochefoucauld, Dauphin is a fercely contemporary jewellery label based in Paris.

Inspired by modern art and experiments in visual expression, the designer focuses on deconstruction, abstraction and geometry to create pieces which are luxurious and beautiful.

Lines and volume are visibly

PHOTO: (RIGHT) © DOMINIQUE COHAS

infuenced by sculpture and architecture, while the use of exquisite materials and a feminine touch means that Dauphin jewellery remains elegant and wearable. This rose gold cuf, adorned with white diamonds, appears a diferent piece depending on which angle you look at it from, and looks fantastic layered over a white shirt sleeve. hl Dauphin, Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5535 3390, maisondauphin.com * for map go to page 77 globalblue.com

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IN STORE: TALBOT RUNHOF Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof have a unique approach to fashion design.

Between them they have experience in a variety of disparate felds, from electrical engineering to business, and their unconventional backgrounds inform the design process at their ready-to-wear label Talbot Runhof.

Eschewing the initial sketching process, the duo begins with the fabric, focusing immediately on the tangible. The resulting clothes are complex and structured, yet feminine and alluring. As they explain to Ximena Daneri, Paris was the natural choice for their second standalone boutique

‘We opened this store in January 2013. The neighbourhood is our favourite shopping area in Paris and we always wanted to be part of it.

Even since we opened there have been changes in the area. One of our favourite brands, APC, opened next door. Visitors are becoming more and more curious about rue d’Alger.

‘The ground foor looks more like a gallery, or a museum set up for an fashion exhibition, while the frst foor feels very cosy, more like a Parisian living-room than a store.

‘We sell our complete range of ready-towear, including limited editions of certain Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

styles, shoes, bags, scarves, jewellery and, of course, the Talbot Runhof cofee-table book which was released for our 20th anniversary.

‘On the very frst day of business, we opened our doors at 2pm. At 2.05pm a lady walked in, saying she had always wanted to own a Talbot Runhof dress. Five minutes later she walked out with a wonderful gown. This store has been memorable for us right from the start.’

Talbot Runhof, 14 rue d’Alger, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 5504 8550, talbotrunhof.com * for map go to page 77

PHOTOS: YANNICK LABROUSSE

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The world of haute couture is experiencing a resurgence as the need for functionality is overcome by a desire for exquisite one-of-a-kind creations, says Beth Druce

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

BEAUTY CALLS When Charles Frederick Worth opened Paris’s frst modern fashion house in the 19th century, he also established a new philosophy for how clothes should be made and the body to enforce it: the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.

Established in 1868, and now part of the more recently created Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des 87 / 94

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Créateurs de Mode, it determined which houses were deserving of the couture name. Over the years these rules were refned and codifed; strict criteria that covered everything from the size of the workforce to how many outfts had to be produced each season dictated who could legally claim the coveted label of ‘grand couturier’, and who were merely ‘couturiers’.

Lef: Maison Martin Margiela haute couture autumn/winter 2014/15

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The whole cycle of couture is moving beyond its roots as houses strive to accommodate a constantly changing clientele

But at the start of the 21st century many members were collapsing under the strain of these demands. By 2000, the number of haute couture houses had dwindled from 60 in 1952 to just 18. Following Yves Saint Laurent’s retirement in 2002, only 12 remained, despite a slight relaxation in the rules. Survivors included Chanel, Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier and Givenchy: fashion stalwarts able to weather changing business climates.

Predictions of the end of haute couture proved premature, however; when Raf Simons took the helm at Dior in 2012, his reputation for refned elegance heralded a new dawn for couture in the modern era.

This modernisation was in part caused by the evolving ready-to-wear industry, whose heightened price point and increasing level of quality threw couture’s identity into fux.

Rachel Ward, a global specialist in fashion and luxury, perceived the decline as a necessary stage in the industry’s natural metamorphosis.

Above (from lef): Viktor & Rolf haute couture autumn/winter 2014/15; Schiaparelli couture archival illustration by Bérard, 1938

ILLUSTRATION: BÉRARD/ARCHIVES MAISON SCHIAPARELLI

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

‘[Couture’s] decline and near disappearance occurred at the same time as increased quality from machines and a vanishing point of craft, only to be followed by a grand resurgence of the authentic,’ Ward explains.

This resurgence is seen on various levels.

At the revived heritage brand Schiaparelli, then creative director Marco Zanini espoused themes and colours that surprised, sending models out in sludge-green fox fur teamed with casual leopard-print booties, and dresses in prints featuring rats, moths and squirrels.

The Dutch duo Victor & Rolf presented an autumn/winter 2014/15 collection that was a commentary on fashion’s courting of celebrity; every look featured a model draped in red carpet.

Another phenomenon is the ‘casualisation’ of couture, as championed by Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, where humble sneakers, skirts paired with tailored tweed cycling shorts and crossbody bags have all featured. Even so, while these informal details enliven couture, they don’t defne it. ‘While his work feels youthful, you can see a life for it with people who aren’t just the Caras [Delevingne] and Jourdans [Dunn] of the world,’ observes Lou Stoppard of fashion flm-maker Show Studio.

For Angelo Flaccavento, one of Italy’s most prominent fashion commentators, couture’s modern relevance is all about invention.

‘I have seen evidence of invention in a few collections, notably the Artisanal at Maison Martin Margiela and at Valentino: creations that refect the pure joy of creative freedom and manual dexterity and clothes that are just plain beautiful rather than merely useful,’ he says.

The commentator also references Giambattista Above (from top): Chanel; Schiaparelli, both autumn/winter 2014/15 haute couture

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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Valli, whom he describes as ‘an inventor’, a new addition to the couture scene who is winning plaudits for his investment in pure beauty.

And what of the customer? Where once European enthusiasts dominated haute couture, today demand from emerging markets such as Asia Pacifc, the Middle East and Russia is increasing. The result is that the whole cycle of couture is transcending its roots as houses strive to accommodate a constantly changing clientele. It’s another demand to add to an already exhaustive list, and acts as reminder of what a tricky business couture can be. ‘A modern couture house to me is one that marries traditional savoir faire with a keen attention to the moment,’ explains Flaccavento. ‘It balances craft and innovation, and nurtures true

uniqueness in taste and execution. A modern couture house is the last bastion of fashion as a dream.’

It is a sobering thought, but one that is tempered by the pre-existing dynamic between haute couture and ready-to-wear.

‘The contemporary productions rely on haute couture’s ongoing presence, almost as a reminder of greatness, in the same manner that we need the classics of literature, or masterworks in any genre,’ explains Ward. ‘Not that haute couture could replace the system of fashion as we know it, but its integrity has a necessary endurance of its own.’ One imagines that it will be this ‘necessary endurance’ that continues to carry the industry forward modeaparis.com

Above (from lef): Valentino; Giambatista Valli, both autumn/winter 2014/15 haute couture

PHOTOS: © GORUNWAY.COM

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FOOD FOR THOUGHT

PHOTO: © LA JEUNE RUE

It’s Paris’s latest gastronomic destination, born of the grand vision and impeccable taste of its founders. Gwyneth Holland discovers the story behind La Jeune Rue

The idea of a concept store may no longer be a novelty, but La Jeune Rue has taken the notion one step further: it’s a whole concept street, which aims to celebrate France’s enviable food culture. Situated in the northern Marais district, La Jeune Rue (‘the young street’) is actually a network of three streets: rue du Vertbois, rue Volta and rue Notre-Dame-deNazareth. The name is taken from a poem by Guillaume Apollinaire: ‘Here’s the young street and you’re still a baby/Dressed by your mother in blue and white only.’

The area has been designed to be an epicurean quarter, flled with carefully curated – and beautiful – bars, restaurants and shops. La Jeune Rue’s founder, enigmatic multi-millionaire Cédric Naudon, has called it ‘a gourmet dream, a cultural challenge and a social project’, while his collaborators Behind the Scene describe it as ‘more than a street, a bridge – a living area where food shops meet cultural events on the pavement, to warm the hearts of pedestrians, locals and travellers’.

To help achieve these lofty aspirations, Naudon has bought 45 shops fronts in the area and has already started flling them with gastronomic delights. Each new opening is designed to have interiors that are as tempting as the food on ofer: leading designer Tom Dixon has overseen the design of a fshmonger, while modern minimalist Jasper Morrison has turned his hand to a tapas bar down the street.

At the Korean street-food restaurant, Italian designer Paola Navone has created an interior that combines luxury materials such as marble with more quotidian woven plastic and broken white tiles.

Naudon is also working with a group of leading creatives on the next wave of planned cultural and culinary openings: a covered 88 / 95

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PHOTO: YANNICK LABROUSSE

PHOTO: © LA JEUNE RUE

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food market designed by Marc Ange; Studio Job’s take on a crêperie, a bakery by Japanese architects Nendo, a Wallpaper magazine concept store, a cinema by architect Andrea Branzi and a gallery run by arts writer Julie Boukobza.

It’s certainly a grand plan, but one born of serendipity and gut instinct rather than any by-the-numbers strategy. After working Previous: Korean street food at Ibaji

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with chef Antonin Bonnet on acclaimed restaurant Le Sergent Recruteur, the team was keen to launch a new project and decided upon an Italian restaurant to be designed by Patricia Urquiola. When Naudon found the perfect site, he agreed to buy several other properties from the same landlord and La Jeune Rue was born.

He has admitted getting slightly carried away by the idea, buying 37 properties in less than a year.

Naudon’s encounters with farmers and artisanal producers through his work with Bonnet have inspired him to showcase sustainable and ethical food. The motto of Naudon and his collaborators is ‘produce better, eat better, live better’, and it is this philosophy that they want to bring to the people of Paris – both its residents and visitors to the city. ‘The dream that rules at La Jeune Rue is a humanist one,’ the team announced at the project’s launch. ‘It takes its roots in the most beloved value we have, the environment, and shapes the most precious thing we leave behind us, the future.’

The project – which has reportedly cost around €30m to date – has attracted some controversy. Critics have claimed that the

planned shops and restaurants will not address the needs of locals, while others have mocked the scale of Naudon’s dream. However, the team behind the project is keen to point out that La Jeune Rue is no elitist folly, but a place where food enthusiasts can meet, trade and share with producers, and where every product is sold at a fair price.

La Jeune Rue’s ethical approach has attracted the support of some of the world’s leading creative talents. ‘The ambition of giving urbanites access to ethical products and to the people that make France’s food, without intermediaries, convinced us straight away,’ say the Campana brothers, who are designing a bar and fsh restaurant for the project. Navone was similarly impressed and immediately drawn to the idea. ‘I like to start conversations where industry meets craftsmanship, where man’s hand still has an impact,’ she says.

With a handful of restaurants already open, and plans to open several more throughout 2015 and 2016, Naudon’s idealistic project is steadily taking shape. The result will provide a stylish new home for what is arguably France’s greatest luxury – its food lajeunerue.com

Previous (from top): La Jeune Rue is a network of three streets; the ‘concept street’ founder Cédric Naudon

Above (from lef): Anahi is one of La Jeune Rue’s many restaurants; one of its steak dishes

PHOTOS: © LA JEUNE RUE

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Above: Louis Vuiton spring/summer 2015 catwalk show

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PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

BRAVE NEW WORLD The creative partnership between historic French fashion house Louis Vuitton and one of the country’s most visionary designers is taking the label into exciting territory, explains Harriet Quick

PHOTO: IWAN BAAN 2014

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You, alongside a few hundred other guests, descend into a gallery that is mysteriously illuminated with hundreds of light beams.

The show begins with a series of LED holograms of young men and women seeming to appear out of thin air. ‘Louis Vuitton wants to explore the possibility of travel to any part of the universe without moving,’ their voices chime, and then, hauntingly, Simon & Garfunkel’s The Sound of Silence begins to play. The audience is buzzing with anticipation.

Out walks model Jean Campbell in a white lace-knit minidress carrying a denim-blue Epi leather handbag. There follows a series of nostalgia-tinged outfts featuring little cropped jackets, leather skirts meticulously crafted from stripes of eel skin, perfectly cut silk denim fares and fower-print velvet suits. There are quilted bags, striped bags and large fold-over clutches that could double up as travel pillows, patchwork ankle boots and disc earrings. What may seem like a retro pastiche suddenly seems so right and so desirable for now. Those cropped velvet jackets and fares could make hearts skip a beat.

Above (clockwise from top lef): Gehry’s Fondation Louis Vuiton building; creative director Nicolas Ghesquière; Mini Trunk bag, spring/ summer 2015; Jean Campbell opened the Louis Vuiton spring/summer 2015 catwalk show in a white lace-knit minidress

PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

T

he primary ambition of luxury fashion houses today is to become relevant to our lifestyles and to feel personal. It is a mission that lies at the core of Louis Vuitton, one of the most famous luxury brands in the world, with revenues of around €8bn a year and more than 460 stores worldwide. To help reach our hearts and our purses, Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of the LVMH group, has signed up Nicolas Ghesquière, one of the most talented and visionary designers of our age and the perfect choice to spearhead the label’s next chapter.

But how does Louis Vuitton, with a logo that has become so ubiquitous, begin to reinvent itself? Transport yourself for a moment to Paris’s Bois de Boulogne at the end of summer 2014. Imagine walking through the leafy pathways clutching a red Epi leather envelope with a hand-addressed invitation to the Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2015 presentation. Through the trees, you spy the towering glass and steel sail-like structure of the new Fondation Louis Vuitton building, designed by legendary architect Frank Gehry.

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PHOTO: © GORUNWAY.COM

Past, future, present, the familiar and the strange: Ghesquière has an extraordinary talent for fusing ideas. ‘On the personal side, I think everyone has a little story about Louis Vuitton – it’s very touching that the biggest brand in the world can be very afecting, very touching and very human,’ Ghesquière comments. ‘From the outside, it is so powerful and so iconic, but on the other hand there is this afection. I had an old LV bag that my mother gave me, a holdall.’

It is this particular bag that Ghesquière had in mind when he began making a new range of future heirlooms. This lexicon of bags includes the Mini Trunk, a reproduction of the travel trunk that secured Louis Vuitton’s reputation in 19th-century Paris. The Doc bag is a one-handled design that plays on the house’s signature cylindrical designs, while the chainhandled bags and fold-over designs produced for spring/summer 2015 herald the start of a new family of styles.

Ghesquière’s predecessor Marc Jacobs re-established the label’s fashion credentials, launched its ready-to-wear collection and introduced the blockbuster catwalk show; Ghesquière’s approach could be described as more ‘French’. Born into a middle-class family in a small town in north-west France, Ghesquière understands the need to reboot the aspirational appeal of the brand. After all, he spent 16 years turning the once moribund house of Balenciaga into an image-making and trendsetting fashion powerhouse. For him, Louis Vuitton is bourgeois, but can also be very cool; it has heritage, but is ready for the future.

‘It is the house of adventure,’ he says.

Making luxury fashion relevant and personal is fundamentally about delivering great design. A logo without substance will remain devoid of meaning. The best way to truly understand the new Louis Vuitton is to follow in the fashion editors’ footsteps to Paris, explore the collection in store and venture out to the Bois de Boulogne and the Fondation Louis Vuitton gallery. Somewhere, between the works of art, the iconic logo and the handbags, you are sure to discover the allure of this quintessentially French super-brand louisvuitton.com

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SWEET THING Forget macaroons, the patisserie du jour is the éclair, explains Isabella Redmond Styles

Named after the French word for a fash of lightning, and so called either because the pastry glistens as the glaze is applied or because they tend to be eaten at record-quick speed, éclairs are the cake world’s latest obsession.

Originally known as pain à la duchesse or petite duchesse, the éclair is closely associated with the 19th-century French chef Antonin Carême, who cooked for both Napoleon and then Britain’s Prince Regent, later King George IV. Made with choux pastry, éclairs are traditionally flled with crème pâtissière (confectioner’s custard) or whipped cream and topped with fondant icing. However, in recent years Paris’s top pastry chefs have brought their characteristic imagination and fair to this bakery classic, whether in the form of experimental favour combinations or eyecatching decoration. It’s time to say au revoir to the macaroon and embrace the éclair. globalblue.com

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FAUCHON Almost from the day it opened in 1886, Fauchon has had a reputation for the excellence of its gourmet food products. Visit the original store on place de la Madeleine to fnd fragrant teas and irresistible confectionery alongside an array of exquisite éclairs.

For those with adventurous tastes, Fauchon even organises an annual Éclair Week every September, allowing the company’s chefs to produce quirky and imaginative limited-edition favours. Previous oferings have balanced both sweet and savoury, with everything from foie gras and strawberry to salmon tartare and yuzu cream.

Fauchon, 24-26 place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 7039 3800, fauchon.com

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L’ É C L A I R D E G É N I E Bringing a double dose of indulgence to Paris, the self-described ‘éclair concept store’ L’Éclair de Génie has two boutiques in the city, one in the Marais and the other in Passy Plaza shopping centre. Both are popular for their chic industrial décor and mouthwatering array of pastry delights. Classics such praline and hazelnut or butterscotch and sea salt sit side by side with more seasonal oferings, including caramel popcorn and red raspberry. The stores also run a monthly special, the Grand Cru Chocolate Éclair, which features a new variety of cocoa each month, showcasing diferent varieties from across the globe.

L’Éclair de Génie, 14 rue Pavée, 75004 Paris, +33 (0)1 4277 8511, leclairdegenie.com globalblue.com

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Mediterranean favours and English-inspired dishes, but make sure to leave room for dessert as the restaurant’s éclairs are unmissable.

With a choice of four favours, from expertly made classics such as chocolate and vanilla to more adventurous choices including tarte tatin and lemon and praline, it’s impossible to stop at just one.

Alcazar, 62 rue Mazarine, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 5310 1999, alcazar.fr

ALCAZAR Alcazar’s Saint-Germain-des-Prés premises were once a real tennis court, then a print shop and fnally a cabaret bar, until Terence Conran chose the site for his frst restaurant outside London. The glass-roofed restaurant is on the ground foor, but there’s also the Mezzanine, private room and bar upstairs. Chef Guillaume Lutard’s menu is a mix of French

PHOTO: CAROLINE ANDRÉONI

L’AT E L I E R D ’ É C L A I R As its name suggests, this patisserie in the heart of Paris is dedicated solely to éclairs.

The bakery aims to uphold the historic French tradition of éclair making and to restore the éclair to its former pride of place.

Expect a variety of sizes, from dainty cocktail versions to giant ones to share, and a wide range of inspired favours. The menu makes it possible to eat éclairs for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with everything from lunchtime choux buns flled with ham and Comté cheese or goats’ cheese and pesto to teatime treats such as lemon meringue, salted caramel or cofee.

L’Atelier de L’Éclair, 16 rue Bachaumont, 75002 Paris, +33 (0)1 4236 4054, latelierdeleclair.fr

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Stay in Style The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate meticulous attention to detail and amenities that range from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spas ofering state-of-the-art treatments. SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best

HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE Overlooking Lake Geneva and the Jet d’Eau, Geneva’s Hotel d’Angleterre is regarded as one of Europe’s fnest fve-star hotels. Known for ofering impeccable service, the hotel strikes the perfect balance between old-world charm and 21st-century technology. Its 39 rooms and suites feature individual designs, with cleverly globalblue.com

concealed modern amenities; many rooms also enjoy panoramic views of the lake and Mont Blanc. Be sure to dine at the hotel’s restaurant, Windows, which combines fne dining and an exemplary wine list with breathtaking scenery.

Hotel d’Angleterre, 17 quai du Mont-Blanc, 1201 Geneva, +41 (0)22 906 5522, dangleterrehotel.com

PHOTO: © DURSTON SAYLOR

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ARTIST RESIDENCE LONDON A bohemian boutique hotel in London’s Pimlico, the Artist Residence consists of just 10 rooms, all with individual décor.

Exposed brick walls, original works of art and antique furnishings feature throughout, while

conveniences such as high-speed Wi-Fi, smart televisions and cofee machines add a touch of modernity. The hotel’s acclaimed restaurant, 64 Degrees, serves a selection of small plates while the bar ofers a suitably famboyant menu of cocktails, Champagne and oysters.

Artist Residence London, 52 Cambridge Street, London SW1V 4QQ, +44 (0)20 7931 8946, artistresidencelondon.co.uk

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ANGLA LUXURY APARTMENTS A home-away-from-home in the heart of Barcelona, Angla Luxury Apartments is located within walking distance of the city’s main attractions, shopping streets and nightlife.

The apartments are bright, spacious and modern, with an array of amenities including American-style kitchens, iPod stations and globalblue.com

satellite televisions. Additional services are available to make your stay as comfortable as possible and, for a special touch, arrange for a hamper to be delivered to your apartment: the Spanish selection includes paella, ham, cheese and wine, while the Romantic hamper features treats such as pink cava, chocolate fondue and fresh strawberries.

Angla Luxury Apartments, Rambla de Catalunya 46, 08007 Barcelona, +34 65 685 1405, anglaboutiqueapartments.com

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HOTEL DE ROME The Hotel de Rome exemplifes the efortlessly elegant décor for which Rocco Forte hotels are known. King-size beds, walk-in wardrobes and luxurious marble bathrooms are found in each of the 109 spacious rooms and suites, while the colour scheme centres on blue, red and cream. Situated in the former headquarters of

Berlin’s Dresdner Bank, the hotel incorporates a number of the building’s original features while the spa can be found in the old vault.

Dine on fne Italian cuisine at the acclaimed La Banca restaurant or enjoy a traditional afternoon tea in the Opera court.

Hotel de Rome, Behrenstrasse 37, 10117 Berlin, +49 (0)30 460 6090, roccofortehotels.com

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GUIDE

PHOTO: © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE/MARC BERTRAND

Global Blue’s guide ensures you make the most of your trip to Paris with a look at the city’s must-visit destinations, from the coolest new stores to gourmet hotspots. Start with SHOP’s highlights before delving deeper with expert guidance from our well-travelled team. For more helpful hints and detailed city guides, check out globalblue.com/paris.

A GLIMPSE OF PARIS Above: Charles Gumery’s gilded fgure, L’Harmonie, crowns the Palais Garnier

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Louis Vuitton Find out all about historic French fashion house Louis Vuitton’s new chapter in its Champs-Élysées store.

Louis Vuitton, 101 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5357 5200, louisvuitton.com featured on page 56

*

HÔTEL HOTEL DE VILLE

SAINT-GERMAIN -DES-PRÉS SAINT-MICHEL

Miu Miu Accessories lovers won’t be able to keep away from Miu Miu’s new bag and accessory boutique in Le Bon Marché.

Le Bon Marché, 24 rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris, +33 (0)1 4439 8000, miumiu.com featured on page 32

*

TEMPLE 3

PALAIS ROYAL MUSÉE DU LOUVRE

Longchamp Check out the new Longchamp flagship store on the Champs-Élysées.

Longchamp, 77 avenue des ChampsÉlysées, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 5376 2776, longchamp.com featured on page 30

P.82

SAINT-PAUL

PONT MARIE

La Jeune Rue Discover La Jeune Rue, described as a gourmet concept street, where cutting-edge design meets delicious food.

La Jeune Rue, rue du Vertbois/ rue Volta/ rue Notre-Dame-de-Nazareth, 75003 Paris, lajeunerue.com featured on page 50

*

72 | G U I D E

SNAPSHOTS OF A CITY

PHOTOS: STEPHANIE BARLOW; XIMENA DANERI; MÓNICA R GOYA

‘Through every season, bohemian Paris enchants visitors with its unexpected details and exquisite colours’ – Ximena Daneri, SHOP’s fashion editor

globalblue.com

S H O P | 73

Follow our team’s travels on Instagram @shopcontent. Tag us in your city pictures when sharing them and you might see them in print!

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74 | G U I D E

Avenue des Champs-Elysées West, Avenue George V & Rue François 1er

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Featured In This Issue

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76 | G U I D E

BUCHERER

PHOTO: © S.D’HALLOY

For the most important of occasions, look no further than Bucherer’s striking Romance collection. The newly launched line includes its Solitaire and Alliance diamond rings, which have been carefully designed so that each one can be worn alone or combined with another for maximum impact. They are available in six diferent white gold styles, and the collection also includes necklaces, bracelets and earrings in platinum and gold.

Whether you’re celebrating an anniversary, birthday or another important event, any one of these elegant pieces would make an enduring memento.

Bucherer, 12 boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris, +33 (0)1 7099 1888, bucherer.com * for map go to page 79

globalblue.com

Featured In This Issue

AV .D

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FREY WILLE ● EB MEYROWITZ ● H STERN ● LORENA ● ANTIONIAZZI

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● MIKI HOUSE

● VIK TO R & ROLF ● EMPORIO ARMANI ● PA RFUMS DIOR

● HUGO BOSS

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AN NIC K GO UTA L● PIE RR E MA RCO ● G U ER LIN I ● LA IN AN NIE CO RVA ● E. GO LL ● YA RD E GOYA RD ● MIL LER ● ● G U CC I GIU SEP PE ZA NO TTI J P HE VIN CH OC DES IGN ● ● TOY WATCH OL ATI ER ● LYD A CO UR TEI ● PAT RIC E FAB LLE ● RE LUC IEN PEL LAT ● BA LDI NIN I -FIN ET ● CH UR CH ’S ● ● MOYN AT P.98 KU ZU ● ● PH ILIP PE FER RIC HA RD GR AN RA ND IS D●

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Place Vendôme

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● CASTANER SHIATZY ● CHEN ● VEBER

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● TECHNICA ● NODUS ● CECILE ET JEANNE ● L'EQUIPÉE ANGLAISE ● TOUS

RUE SAIN T- HON O R É

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● ● ● ● ●

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HEURGON ● OSCAR CARVALLO ●

LANCÔME ● VALENTINO ●

ROGER VIVIER ●

● BLUGIRL ● BLUMARIN E ● BURBERRY ● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ● DAMIR DOMA ● MOSCHINO ● HOGAN ● ERMENEGI LDO ZEGNA P.38 ● LEONARD ● SALVATOR E FERRAGAM O

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S H O P | 77

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BRUCE FIELD ●

78 | G U I D E

Rue Tronchet, Place de la Madeleine, Boulevard Malesherbes, Rue Boissy d’Anglas, Boulevard de la Madeleine & Rue Royale GUERLAIN ●

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● WEMPE

RUE SAINT-HONORÉ ● POIRAY ● LACHAUME ● CORINA ● ROYAL QUARTZ ● EMILE LÉON ● O J PERRIN ● HAVILAND / DAUM ● ARTHUS BERTRAND

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LOUIS PION ● C ALAIN MARTINIERE ● ODIOT ● E R R UT PATRICK BELL & ROSS ● I● ROGER ● GUY DEGRENNE ● LOUIS EDOUARD LEJEUNE ● DIOR ●

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● THE KOOPLES ● LA CARPE ● LA BAGAGERIE ● CHRISTINE LAURE ● SALAMAND ER ● FIL À FIL ● PRONOVIAS ● MADURA ● FAIRMOUNT ● CAREL ● PIERRE CUVEX I SK N OV H O S R E S WA RFA U C E ● ● ●

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● ANNE FONTAINE ● ERIC BOMPARD ● BRIC’S

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JOHN LOBB ●

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JEAN VIER ●

ALESSI ●

RU E

● MASSIMO DUTTI

MARIONNAUD ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● EXCLUSIF ● NESPRESSO ● SABON ● PRINCESSE TAM-TAM ● RODIER ● CHARLES COTONAY ● EMLING ●

● SIA NINE WEST ●

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UN JOUR AILLEURS ● DJULA ●

Hotel

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Place Vendôme & Rue de la Paix Place Opéra ● JAIME MASCARO

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MENARD ● ALAIN FIGARET ● WASKOLL ● A.LANGE & SHONE ● VAN LAACK ● GAREL ● COMPTOIR DES COTONNIERS ● BACCARAT ●

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HERZO ● PIAGET ● OFFICINE PANERAI ● PARK HYATT● VAN CLEEF & ARPELS ● IWC ● BULGARI ● ● ● R IE ON RT IT T CA VU S UI

DUBAIL ●

LO

WEMPE Wempe is on a mission to keep watch lovers happy with the latest addition to its Zeitmeister line. The new fagship style, the Wempe Zeitmeister Glashütte i/SA Chronograph Mondphase Vollkalender, combines two of the most popular horological features of previous styles, a chronograph and a full calendar including moon phase rank to chart the lunar cycle.

Other highlights include a 24-hour display and a pleasingly practical date display made up of a circle of dates that surrounds the dial. Once completed, each timepiece must undergo a rigorous 15-day testing procedure and is only approved if it reaches Wempe’s exacting standards.

Wempe, 16 rue Royale, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4260 2177, wempe.com

Featured In This Issue

RUE DE LA PAIX

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● ERIC BOMPARD CLAUDIE CAFE DE LA PAIX ● ● BENETTON PIERLOT ● B ● BASLER W O N KIWI ● E AT B SA DE PRINCESSE N CH ON TA M S PA ● TAM.TAM G ON RK ● PHILIPPE HE IT ● C FERRANDIS ● AR U E ● ● CALIDA TI ER GOLFINO ● ER ● ● P.76 BUCHERER ● COMPTOIR DES ● IKKS COTONNIERS ● MAJE ● RUE DAUNOU PE ● OMEGA RI GA GO P ● BALLY ● T ZA ● RA ● MC GREGOR ● B GA AB P Y ● LACOSTE ● ● HACKETT ● MANFIELD ● GANT ● HABITAT ● AIGLE

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Boulevard des Capucines & Rue Scribe

● CHRISTO F LE ● TARTI NE ET CHOCOLAT ● R EP ETTO ● LAL IQ UE ● ZI MMER L I ● BEAU M E E T M ERCI ER ● M A SSIM O DUTTI ● LERY ● STARK & SON S ● DINH VAN ● BURMA ● BREUER ● KORLOFF ● FOLL I FOLLI E ● BREITLING ● JAQUET DROZ ● BREG UE T ● ROL EX ● TIFFANY & CO. ● H ARRY WINSTON ● DAUM ● CECLA VACHERON VA ● CON STANTIN SANO E CA

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R PE AR ● CHARVET F& ● M26 VENDOME EE L ● BOUCHERO N NC VA ● ● BLANCPAIN ● CHANEL ● PIAGET ● SWATCH ● CHAUMET ● HUBLOT

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Boulevard Saint-Germain, Rue Saint-Sulpice, Rue du Four, Rue de Sèvres & Rue de Grenelle AU VIEUX CAMPEUR: 48 RUE DES ÉCOLES (1KM) ● MAXIMILIEN ● CAROLL ●

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Global Blue Retailer

Non-Global Blue Retailer

Department Store

Restaurant

Metro

Featured In This Issue

Le Bon March é

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RU E D U FO UR

S WA R OV SKI APO ● STR OPH E● ART FA B ● AG HUS R IC A E● BER ● TE THA T RAN REM D D● IN IS ● SE BAKER CEN CE ● IKO D IN H VA N LES M ● ● C IT D ID IE O N T R E S Y PH ● R GU ARM E R IN A ●

Italian watchmaker Panerai has unveiled its latest store concept with the opening of its second Paris boutique, on rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Created by Milan-based designer Patricia Urquiola, the elegant interior encapsulates Panerai’s signature style with the clever use of marble, bronze and wood; undulating glass, designed to evoke waves, pays homage to Panerai’s naval connections.

Panerai, 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, +33 (0)1 4451 5050, panerai.com * for map go to page 77

MA X ●M MAR AND NES A● A R IN ●M PRE A DU MA A X& SS CK MOI S T E L R C O ‘P O O ● LO ● LA F ORE PEN ● S T NYB P R IN L AC K ● C ● T IK ESS BER E N IC ● ● Z A I T IH AWE TA M .T E LES AM A ● G A PA P E T IT J O S E P ● H● RELL S HA ● IV A U LE T ● N A O IR E D E L S AT E L IE S ● A MA ● A R T H A L IE IL R S ● B A M A N D V C H A IZ E K IR L E ● P IE R ENT RE H ANE ● ● IN & S H IL L O ERM ● M D IE S K IE H É ● L’S ● ● C OIN E L L I ● M S M O PA C O M IK A S A R R IS ● C P T O IR D O L E A OTO N N IE E S RS

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82 | G U I D E

MY PARIS: JEMMY BROUET Jemmy Brouet honed his cooking skills in several prestigious restaurants throughout France, and has been head chef at Le Jules Verne since October 2010. The Michelin-starred restaurant is known for its menu of French classics reinterpreted with a contemporary touch, but also for its location on the second level of Paris’s most iconic landmark, the Eifel Tower. Jemmy shares his city recommendations with Isabella Redmond Styles

‘I’m a big fan of the seventh and 15th arrondissements of Paris. I like walking in rue Saint-Dominique and rue du Commerce, which are typical streets for these areas. The atmosphere is pleasant and the shopkeepers are always happy to recommend a product or a place to discover.

It’s like a little Paris within Paris.

‘I’m at Le Jules Verne every day for work, so I spend my life at the Eifel Tower * p.70. What a wonderful job and a wonderful place to be! People travel thousands of miles to see it – and I am lucky enough to be here every day. The view from

the restaurant is the best in Paris, whether it’s daytime or at night. It changes constantly with the light or the weather.

‘I often have lunch at La Cantine, the Christian Etchebest restaurant (in the 14th). They serve typical French cuisine in a warm atmosphere. In the evening, I might have a drink at Le Zinc, a bar located near La Motte-Picquet Métro station.

‘I take my out-of-town friends to the classic monuments and sites of Paris such as Notre-Dame * p.71, the Musée du Louvre * p.71, Montmartre

Above (clockwise from lef): Le Jules Verne; Notre-Dame; Musée du Louvre; Parc Floral de Vincennes

PHOTOS: (PROFILE) © PIERRE MONETTA; MATT ALETTI

lejulesverne-paris.com

relax in the beautiful parks at Versailles, Fontainebleau, Vincennes … It was after one of these trips, when I was walking back into Paris, that I made my latest local discovery: Pizzeria d’Auteuil, a fantastic place that defnitely does the best pizza in town.

‘My tip to those visiting the city would be to wake up early to enjoy Paris when it is not crowded. What’s more, visitors should not hesitate to step into some of its grand hotels for a drink at the bar or a cup of tea. There is always a warm welcome, and they’re great places to linger on rainy days.’

PHOTO: ROS K @ GETFUNKY_PARIS

PHOTO: GIORGOS CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

and, of course, the Eifel Tower. I think it is important for visitors to learn about the history of Paris before anything else. After that I might take them to hang out in SaintGermain-des-Prés for its atmosphere and liveliness. It’s great to let your feet take you to those secret little streets you have never seen before.

‘On my days of, there is always something happening foodwise in Paris that I want to discover. Otherwise, I very much enjoy heading out of town to

PHOTO: © PARIS TOURIST OFFICE - PHOTOGRAPHER: AMÉLIE DUPONT

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LA VALLÉE VILLAGE Located just 35 minutes from the centre of Paris, adjacent to Disneyland Paris, La Vallée Village plays host to 110 luxury boutiques as well as to the Espace ® La Vallée Village contemporary art gallery. Each boutique typically ofers shoppers discounts of a minimum of 33% of regular retail prices.

La Vallée Village, 3 cours de la Garonne, 77700 Serris, +33 (0)1 6042 3501, lavalleevillage.com Opening times Monday-Sunday: 10am-7pm

globalblue.com

DON’T MISS…

Shopping day This exclusive package includes: • Return tickets for the Shopping Express ® luxury coach service from central Paris to the village • A VIP card providing a further 10% saving on purchases in six boutiques of your choice • Lunch at Pret A Manger • A €50 gift voucher to spend at a store of your choice

S H O P | 85

Ximena Daneri, SHOP’s fashion editor, describes a perfect day at La Vallée Village

PERFECT DAY

HOW TO GET THERE Shopping Express® coach service

10am Start the day admiring the signature style of Sonia Rykiel’s collections. Be sure to pick up one of the label’s sweaters, whose prints are instantly recognisable.

La Vallée Village’s Shopping Express® service ofers six daily departures from place des Pyramides, Étoile/ Porte Maillot and place du Trocadéro.

More information on lavalleevillage.com/ shoppingexpress.

By car from Paris Take the A4 motorway, exit at junction 12.1 and follow the signs to La Vallée Village; 2,300 free spaces mean parking is never a problem.

By car from Reims

3pm

12pm

Longchamp’s range of luggage, handbags and accessories has an international reputation for craftsmanship, creativity and design, with a playful edge.

Take a break at Pret A Manger which serves a selection of flled baguettes, crisp salads, fresh soups and a selection of ethically sourced organic cofees.

4pm

6pm

Perfect a look of understated cool by visiting The Kooples.

The label’s collections combine vintage-inspired pieces with classic tailoring to create an androgynous style that is sure to stand out.

End your day admiring the footwear and luxury leather goods available at Tod’s. The company is best known for its Gommino moccasin, made by hand and featuring 133 pins in its rubber sole.

Leave the A4 at exit 14 and follow the signs for Marne-la-Vallée/Val d’Europe and then for Centre Commercial/ Entrée A. By train The closest TGV train station is Marne-laVallée-Chessy/Parc Disney station. By RER train, take line A and exit at Val d’Europe/Serris Montévrain station.

La Vallée Village is a 10-minute walk away.

A shuttle bus runs from Val d’Europe station to La Vallée Village every Sunday.

86

WHEN YOU SHOP THE WORLD, SHOP TAX FREE Global Blue Tax Free Shopping brings you savings on the purchases you make at over 270,000 stores across the world’s best shopping districts.

So why not join the 26 million travellers who shop tax free with Global Blue every year? Simply look for the blue star or ask for Global Blue, and follow our easy process.

1. Shop

2. Claim

Wherever you shop, ask for a Global Blue Tax Free Form and remember to keep your receipts.

When you’re heading home, at your point of departure visit customs to get your receipts approved, before collecting your refund at one of our Refund Ofces.

Spend a minimum of €175.01 and save an average of 12% of the purchase price. Please note that the fnal refund you receive will consist of the VAT total, minus an administration fee. At some airports a cash handling fee per Tax Free Form will be charged should you require an immediate refund in cash.

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Galeries Lafayete 40 boulevard Haussmann, 75009 Paris UME Galerie du Claridge, 74 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris UME Galerie 66 66 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris UME Galerie Élysées du 26 26 avenue des Champs-Élysées, 75008 Paris 91 / 94

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TRANSLATIONS РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОД 42: Beauty Calls

Красота Зовет

Мир высокой моды охватило новое возрождение, а на смену функциональности пришло стремление ко всему изысканному и оригинальному, – говорит Бет Дрюс Чарльз Фредерик Уорт, открывший в середине 19 века первый в Париже современный дом моды, дал начало новой науке, изучающей принципы создания одежды, и даже основал организацию, которая бы могла этот процесс контролировать: «Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture». Учреждение появилось в 1868 году и сегодня является частью недавно созданной федерации Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode, çлены которой решают какаê марка заслуживает того, çтобы называтьсê haute couture. На протêжении многих лет критерии отбора утоçнêлись и совершенствовались. В расçет шло множество факторов: от колиçества работников до колиçества готовых изделий за сезон, после çего решалось, может ли номинант обладать поçетным званием «гранд-кутюрье» или просто «кутюрье». Стоит сказать, çто в наçале 21 века многие çлены федерации заçастую не выдерживали порой çересçур жестких требований. Колиçество домов моды, которых в 1952 году насçитывалось 60, к 2000 году сократилось до 18. После того, как Ив Сен-Лоран законçил свою карьеру в 2002 году, çисло уменьшилось до 12, даже не смотрê на некоторое послабление в требованиêх. В çисло действующих на данный момент входêт Chanel, Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier и Givenchy – титаны моды, способные работать при любых условиêх. Тем не менее, предсказание о конце эпохи от-кутюр оказалось достатоçно преждевременным. Раф Симонс, известный globalblue.com

своим утонçенным и элегантным стилем, в 2012 году возглавил Dior, çем возвестил новый рассвет современного кутюр. Стремительное развитие индустрии прет-а-порте, со свойственными ей высокими ценами и возрастающим каçеством, спровоцировало небольшой упадок сферы от-кутюр. Рейçел Ворд, международный специалист индустрии моды и роскоши, обàêснила спад естественным этапом развитиê сферы. «Упадок и практиçески полное исçезновение [кутюр], произошедшее в то же времê, çто и рост каçества машинного производства, приведет только к возрождению аутентиçности», – поêснêет Ворд. Это возрождение уже можно заметить на самых разных уровнêх. Так, Марко Занини, креативный директор вновь открытого бренда Schiaparelli, выбрал длê новой коллекции тематику и цветовую палитру, удивившую многих критиков. Его модели поêвились перед публикой в изделиêх из лисьего меха болотного цвета в соçетании с ботильонами леопардовой расцветки, çто же касаетсê платьев, то они изобиловали принтами с изображением крыс, мотыльков и белок. Голландский дуэт Victor & Rolf презентовал коллекцию осень-зима 2014/15, котораê стала видением того, как мир обходитсê со знаменитостêми; демонстрируê образы, модели были облаçены в подобиê красных ковровых дорожек. Еще одним феноменом стало упрощение кутюра, наçатое Карлом Лагерфельдом в Chanel. Все çаще дом моды стал показывать скромные кроссовки, юбки в соçетании с велошортами из твида и разнообразные сумки çерез плеçо. Но хотê эти простецкие детали и оживлêют моду, они, ни в коем слуçае не задают ей тон. «Его работы больше напоминают молодежную моду, но при этом смогут легко найти поклонников у более старшей аудитории, а не только у Кары [Делевинь] и Джорданы [Данн]», – замеçает Лу Стоппард из киностудии Show Studio.

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По мнению одного из самых известных итальянских обозревателей моды Анжело Флаккавенто, в основе современного кутюра лежит изобретательность. «Мне приходилось видеть примеры изобретательности во многих коллекциях, особенно в Artisanal от Maison Martin Margiela и коллекциях от Valentino, где вещи отражают настоящую радость творческой свободы и ловкости рук, вещи, которые просто красивы, и необязательно практичны», – говорит она. Журналист также упоминает Жанбатиста Валли, которого он считает «изобретателем», новой легендой мира кутюр и человеком, заслуживающим высших похвал за его вклад в неподдельную красоту. А что насчет покупателей? Если раньше интерес к haute couture проявляли в основном энтузиасты из Европы, то теперь их теснят поклонники моды из Азии, Ближнего Востока и Российской Федерации. В результате весь индустриальный цикл претерпевает изменения по мере того, как дома моды пытаются адаптироваться под постоянно меняющуюся клиентуру. Это еще одно из многочисленных требований, говорящих о том, насколько непростым может быть модный бизнес. «На мой взгляд, современный дом моды должен обладать традиционным savoir faire и всегда держать руку на пульсе, – поясняет Флаккавенто. – Это необходимо для соблюдения равновесия между ручным трудом и современными технологиями, а также сохранения оригинальности стиля и исполнения. Современный дом моды это последнее что осталось у возвышенного haute couture». Такая мысль звучит немного пессимистично, но не стоит забывать о существовавших изначально отношениях между высокой модой и прет-а-порте. «Сегодняшнее производство во многом ориентируется на изобретения высокой моды, задающей определенный тон, так же как и мы стараемся ориентироваться на идеалы, которые находим в произведениях классической литературы и искусства, – поясняет Ворд. – Вряд ли кутюр смог бы globalblue.com

заменить собой привычную нам индустрию моды, но при этом ему свойственна целостность, независящая от сторонних факторов». Возможно, именно благодаря своей целостности и независимости индустрия продолжает существовать и развиваться. modeaparis.com 50: Food For Thought

Пища Для Размышления Улица La Jeune одно из самых оригинальных гастрономических направлений Парижа, возникшее благодаря творческому воображению и безупречному вкусу его основателей, – рассказывает Гвинет Холланд Концептуальным магазином сегодня вряд ли кого-то удивишь, однако дизайнеры улицы La Jeune решили подойти к вопросу глобально. В результате вся улица стала одним большим концептуальным проектом, воплотившим всю прелесть французской кулинарии. La Jeune Rue, что в переводе значит «крошка-улица», на самом деле представляет собой сеть из трех улиц: rue du Vertbois, rue Volta и rue NotreDame-de-Nazareth. Название было взято из стихотворения Гийома Аполлинера: «Вот крошка-улица и ты еще подросток/ Зcvа ручку с мамой ходишь в курточке матросской». Этот квартал проектировался в эпикурейском стиле, а его улочки переполняют десятки симпатичных баров, ресторанов и магазинчиков. Основатель La Jeune Rue, мультимиллионер Седрик Наудон считает этот район «мечтой гурмана, культурным вызовом и социальным проектом», в то время как его напарники называют его «больше, нежели просто улица Это скорее мост и жизненное пространство, объединившее продуктовые магазины и уличное творчество, и согревающее сердца прохожих, местных жителей и путешественников». Чтобы воплотить задуманное в реальность, Наудону понадобилось выкупить 45 магазинов, которые он уже

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начал заполнять гастрономическими изысками. Каждый новый магазин будет иметь такой же изумительный интерьер, как и представленный на витринах ассортимент. Так, дизайнер Том Диксон занимался проектированием магазина морепродуктов, а современный минималист Джаспер Моррисон приложил руку к одной из закусочных. Благодаря итальянскому дизайнеру Паоле Навоне ресторан корейской кухни получил интерьер, сочетающий роскошные материалы вроде мрамора с мозаикой из кусков белой плитки и тканью из плетеного пластика. Также Наудон сотрудничает с группой ведущих дизайнеров над следующей волной культурных и гастрономических проектов. В их числе: крытый продуктовый рынок, спроектированный Марком Анже, блинная от Studio Job, булочная от японского архитектора Нендо, концепт-стор для журнала Wallpaper, кинотеатр от архитектора Андреа Бранзи и художественная галерея искусствоведа Джули Букобза. Задумка вышла действительно грандиозная, но главное, что в основе ее лежит не холодный экономический расчет, а скорее интуитивная прозорливость и счастливая случайность. После плодотворной совместной работы с шеф-поваром Антонином Боннетом над проектом ресторана Le Sergent Recruteur, команда с нетерпением ожидала нового сотрудничества, которое в итоге привело к открытию нового итальянского ресторана. Его дизайн поручили испанскому архитектору Патрисии Уркиола. Когда Наудон нашел подходящее место, он решил выкупить еще несколько магазинов у одного и того же владельца. Так получил рождение проект La Jeune Rue. В какой-то момент он признался, что возможно слишком увлекся идеей, купив 37 помещений менее чем за год. За время работы с Боннетом Наудону пришлось встретиться со многими фермерами и частными производителями, которые вдохновили его на организацию выставки эко-продукции и продуктов здорового питания. Своим девизом

архитектор избрал фразу «производи лучше, ешь лучше, живи лучше», – именно такую философию Наудон хочет донести парижанам и гостям города. «Основная идея La Jeune Rue – это гуманность, – заявили организаторы проекта. – Она начинается с самого дорогого, что у нас есть – окружающей среды, и оказывает непосредственное влияние на то, что мы оставляем после себя – наше будущее». Этот проект, бюджет которого на данный момент составил € 30 млн., вызвал много противоречий. Критики заявили, что строящиеся магазины и рестораны не будут отвечать нуждам местных жителей, а иные и вовсе усмехнулись наполеоновским планам Наудона. Однако организаторы проекта настроены весьма оптимистично. По их словам, La Jeune Rue отнюдь не эпатажная выходка, но место, где поклонники хорошей еды могут встречаться, делать покупки и общаться с поставщиками, а все товары можнwwо будет купить по разумным ценам. Эко-мышление создателей La Jeune Rue завоевало поддержку ведущих дизайнеров со всего мира. «Когда мы узнали, что этот проект даст горожанам возможность покупать эко-продукты и общаться непосредственно с теми, кто их производит, мы просто не могли устоять», – говорят братья Кампана, работающие над дизайном бара и ресторана морепродуктов. Паола Навоне тоже была впечатлена идеей новой улицы и практически моментально согласилась на участие. «Меня всегда привлекали проекты, объединяющие промышленность и частное производство, проекты, в которых ручной труд все еще не утерял свою ценность», – говорит она. Идеалистический замысел Наудона медленно, но верно движется к своему финалу. Многие из задуманных ресторанов уже начали свою работу, в то время как остальные откроют свои двери на протяжении 2015 и 2016 года. По завершении строительства улица La Jeune станет обителью одного из самых роскошных достояний Франции – национальной гастрономии. lajeunerue.com

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56: Brave New World

Дивный Новый Мир Харриет Квик рассказывает о том, как плодотворное сотрудничество с Николя Гескьером, одним из самых необычных дизайнеров Франции, выводит модный дом Louis Vuitton к новым вершинам Модные дома сегодня стараются соответствовать нашему образу жизнь и дарить неповторимый опыт. И это стало настоящей миссией для Louis Vuitton, одного из самых известных роскошных брендов в мире с 460 бутиками по всему миру и доходом около 8 миллиардов евро в год. Председатель и исполнительный директор группы компаний LVMH Бернар Арно пригласил на пост художественного директора бренда Николя Гескьера – одного из самых талантливых и удивительных дизайнеров нашего времени. Именно он способен начать новую главу в истории прославленной марки. Логотип Louis Vuitton настолько узнаваем, что сложно представить, каким образом компания собирается обновлять свой имидж. Перенесемся мысленно в лето 2014 года и отправимся на прогулку по парижскому Булонскому лесу. У вас в руках красный кожаный конверт Epi с надписанным вручную приглашением на презентацию коллекции Louis Vuitton весна/лето 2015. Между деревьями просматривается похожее на парус здание из стекла и бетона, которое легендарный архитектор Фрэ нк Гери спроектировал специально для Fondation Louis Vuitton. В окружении сотен гостей отправимся в галерею, загадочно освещенную мириадами огней. Шоу открывают голограммные изображения людей, которые появляются будто из воздуха. «Louis Vuitton интересуется возможностью путешествовать по вселенной, не совершая физических перемещений», - произносят звенящие голоса, а затем звучит композиция Te Sound of Silence дуэта Simon & Garfunkel. Аудитория трепещет в нетерпении. globalblue.com

На подиум выходит модель Джин Кэмпбелл в белом кружевном мини-платье с сумкой Epi из синей кожи. Укороченные жакеты, юбки из полосок кожи угря, изящно скроенные джинсы-клеш и вельветовые костюмы с цветочными принтами – все наряды коллекции пронизывают ностальгические настроения. Кроме того, в серии представлены украшенные мозаикой и полосами сумки и большие клатчи, которые складываются пополам, сапоги и ботильоны из лоскутов кожи и серьги в форме крупных дисков. Это могло бы показаться странным ретро-попурри, если бы не было столь актуальным и востребованным сейчас. Такие укороченные вельветовые жакеты и брюки-клеш заставляют сердца поклонников моды биться неровно. Прошлое, будущее, настоящее, понятное и странное – Гескьер талантливо объединяет все это в своих коллекциях: «Если говорить о личном, я думаю, каждый может рассказать свою маленькую историю про Louis Vuitton. Приятно, что крупнейшие бренды мирового уровня могут оставлять столь личные впечатления, быть человечными, - комментирует Гескьер. – В то же время это мощный культовый бренд, которому присуще и чувство близости. И у меня тоже была старая сумка-холдал этой марки, которую мне подарила мама». Гескьер явно имел в виду эту сумку с историей, разрабатывая серию вещей, которым еще только предстоит стать фамильными ценностями. В частности, дизайнер воспроизвел дорожный сундук Mini Trunk, который создал модному дому репутацию в 19 веке. Модель Doc с одной ручкой обыгрывает фирменный цилиндрический дизайн Louis Vuitton, а сумки на цепочках или сгибающиеся пополам предвещают начало нового витка в истории сумок этого модного дома. Предшественник Гескьера Марк Джейкобс укрепил модный статус Louis Vuitton, создав коллекции готовой одежды и придумав взрывное подиумное шоу. Подход Гескьера выглядит «более французским», поскольку он осознает необходимость

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искать новые источники привлекательности для бренда. Дизайнер родился в семье среднего класса в маленьком городе на северо-западе Франции. В течение 16 лет он занимался перезапуском модного дома Balenciaga, который превратил в статусного трендсеттера. В восприятии Гескьера Louis Vuitton буржуазен, но потенциально весьма стильный и актуальный. Уделяя достаточно внимание наследию, бренд готов встретиться со своим будущим. «Этот дом любит приключения», - подводит итог дизайнер. Превращение роскошной моды в нечто актуальное и индивидуальное напрямую связано с качественным дизайном. Логотип без содержания не имеет смысла. Лучше всего по-настоящему понять новый Louis Vuitton можно в Париже, последовав за модными редакторами: изучите коллекцию в фирменном бутике, прогуляйтесь по Булонскому лесу и побывайте в галерее Fondation Louis Vuitton. Где-то между произведениями искусства, культовым логотипом и изысканными сумками вам обязательно откроется таинственное очарование этого истинного французского модного дома. louisvuitton.com 86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free

Совершая покупки по всему миру, совершайте их с tax free Услуги Global Blue Tax Free Shopping позволят вам сэкономить на покупках, совершенных в около 270,000 магазинах, расположенных в самых лучших шоппинг районах мира. Так почему бы не присоединиться к 26 миллионам путешественников, совершающих покупки tax free с Global Blue каждый год? Просто найдите голубую звезду или спросите о Global Blue и следуйте нашим несложным инструкциям.

1. В магазине Где бы вы ни совершали покупки, попросите tax free форму Global Blue.

2. При выезде Возвращаясь домой, в пункте отправления, пройдите к таможне для того, чтобы заверить ваши чеки для получения возврата в одном из наших пунктов. Контакты: taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 Потратьте минимум €175.01 и сэкономьте в среднем 12% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (НДС) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых аэропортах при возврате наличными взимается комиссия за каждую Tax Free форму. 美文翻译

42: Beauty Calls 美丽的呼唤 随着对独一无二、精美绝伦的渴望逐渐取代对 功能性的需求，高级时装定制界正经历着一场复 兴。Beth Druce报道 当19世纪Charles Frederick Worth在巴黎开设第 一家现代时装公司时，他也为如何制作衣服创立了一 套全新的理念，并设立了一家机构去执行他的理念： 法国高级时装工会。该工会成立于1868年，如今是 最近才成立的法国时装、成衣设计师和时装设计师 联盟的一部分，这家工会决定了谁可以享有高级时 装定制的资历。随着时间的推移，该机构对这些规则 进行了细化和编纂，从劳动力规模到每一季可以生 产多少套服装都有严格的规定，这就决定了谁可以 在法律上获得令人觊觎的“大裁缝”的标签，而谁仅 仅只是“裁缝”。 不过到了21世纪初，在这些严格要求之下许 多会员开始不堪重负了。到2000年为止，高级时装 定制公司的数量从1952年的60家下降到18家。在 2002年Yves Saint Laurent 退休之后，就只剩下 12家，虽然当时对于高级时装定制的要求已经稍微 放宽了一些。这些幸存者包括Chanel，Christian Dior，Jean Paul Gaultier和Givenchy，他们可以 适应不断变化的商业环境，从而成为时尚圈的中 流砥柱。然而，预测高级时装定制的终结还为时过 早。2012年，Raf Simons执掌Dior，他在追求精 致优雅方面的名声预示着高级时装定制将在当代迎 来新曙光。

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这种现代化在一定程度上是由不断演变的成衣 产业所造成的，高昂的价格与不断提高的质量水准 让高级时装定制的身份趋于波动。Rachel Ward， 一位时尚与奢侈品行业的全球专家，认为衰落是行 业自然蜕变的必经阶段。 “（高级时装定制的）衰落 和几近消失与机器生产质量的提高和手工艺的消失 发生在同一时间，但随后就会出现追求纯粹的盛大 复兴， ” Ward说。 在不同层次上都可以看到这样的复兴。在复兴 传统品牌Schiaparelli上，创意总监Marco Zanini 信奉让人感到惊讶的主题和颜色，他让模特们裹 着泥绿色的狐狸皮搭配休闲的豹纹靴子，并穿上老 鼠、飞蛾和松鼠印花的裙子。荷兰设计双雄Victor & Rolf 展示了一个2014/15秋冬季系列，评述了时 尚与名流的不解之缘，红毯以各种造型披挂装点在 模特身上。 另一个现象是Chanel的Karl Lagerfeld所倡 导的高级服装“休闲化”；不起眼的运动鞋、裙子搭 配剪裁精细的粗花呢自行车短裤和斜挎包。即便如 此，尽管这些非正式的细节让高级时装更有活力，它 们也不能够定义高级时装。时尚电影制作公司Show Studio的Lou Stoppard认为： “尽管他的作品给 人感觉很年轻，对于世界上不是Cara Delevingne 和Jourdan Dunn这样的人来说，它同样具有生命 力。” 对于意大利最著名的时尚评论家之一Angelo Flaccavento来说，高级时装的现代相关性在于发 明。他说， “我在一些系列中看到了发明的影子，比较 出众的是 Maison Martin Margiela的Artisanal和 Valentino：这些作品反映出自由创意和灵巧手工的 纯粹乐趣，做出来的衣服就是为了好看，而非仅仅实 穿而已。”这位专家还引用了Giambattista Valli的 例子，并将其形容为“发明家” ，作为高级时装界的新 人，Valli在纯美方面的创意为其赢得了高度赞誉。 那么消费者这一边又是怎样的呢？高级时装定 制一度被欧洲的爱好者们所主导，而如今来自亚太、 中东和俄罗斯等新兴市场的需求正在不断增加。时 装公司努力适应不断变化的客户群，导致整个高级 时装行业逐渐偏离其根源。这是在一个已经非常详 尽繁杂的清单上增添的新任务，并提醒大家高级时 装是一个多么复杂棘手的生意。 “对我而言，一个现 代的高级时装公司是传统专业技能和紧跟当下潮流 之间的结合。”Flaccavento解释道， “它平衡了工艺 与创新，孕育了品位和执行力中真正的独特之处。一 个现代的高级时装公司是时装梦的最后碉堡。” 这是一个值得思考的问题，但也是对已经存在 的高级时装与成衣之间动能的缓和。 “现代的产品 依赖于高级时装持续的存在，几乎就是在提醒我们 它的伟大之处，就像我们同样需要文学经典或者各 种流派的艺术作品。” Ward解释道。 “并不是说高 globalblue.com

级时装可以像我们所知道的那样代替时装体系，但 是它的完整性必须得有自己的持久力。”很多人认 为高级时装会成为这种继续引领行业进步的“必要 持久力”。 modeaparis.com

50: Food For Thought 精神食粮 创始人宏伟的视野和无可挑剔的品味让这里成为巴 黎最新的美食目的地。Gwyneth Holland在此告诉 我们La Jeune Rue街背后的故事 概念店的创意可能已经不再新颖，但是 La Jeune Rue将这个理念又向前推进了一步：这是一整条概 念街，目的是为了庆祝法国令人羡慕的饮食文化。位 于马莱区（Marais）的北部，La Jeune Rue（意为 年轻的街道）事实上是一个由三条街道组成的网 络：rue du Vertbois，rue Volta 和 rue NotreDame-de-Nazareth。其名字取自于 Guillaume Apollinaire的一首诗： “这是条年轻的街道，而你 仍然是一个婴孩/被你的母亲打扮，只穿着蓝色和白 色的衣服。” 这个区域被设计成为一个享乐主义的国度，充 满了精心排列、楚楚动人的酒吧、餐厅和商店。La Jeune Rue的创始人、神秘的千万富翁Cédric Naudon称它为“一个美食的梦想、一个文化的挑战 和一个社会化的项目” ，而他的幕后合作者形容它为“ 不仅仅是一条街，一座桥——这里是一片生活区域， 食品商店与文化活动在此交融，温暖了行人、本地人 和旅行者的心扉。” 为了实现这些远大的志向，Naudon购买了这 个区域的45家门面，并开始用美味佳肴填充这些空 间。每一家新开店面的室内设计就跟这里所供应的 食物一样诱人：顶级设计师Tom Dixon监督了一个 鱼品店的设计，现代极简主义大师 Jasper Morrison 经手了沿街一家小吃酒吧的设计。在韩国街头美食 餐厅，意大利设计师Paola Navone的室内设计将奢 华的材料如大理石，与司空见惯的编织塑料与破碎 的白色瓷砖相结合。 Naudon正在和一群顶尖的创意人士合作，计 划下一波文化与烹饪门面的开张：其中包括由Marc Ange设计的室内食品市场；Studio Job接手了一家 可丽饼店，还有一个由日本建筑师 Nendo设计的面 包店，一个《墙纸》（Wallpaper）杂志概念店，一个 由建筑师Andrea Branzi打造的电影院，和一个由 艺术作家Julie Boukobza经营的画廊。 这当然是一个宏伟的计划，但也是一个凭借运 气与直觉而诞生的计划，绝非任何数字决策下的战 略。在与久负盛名的餐厅Le Sergent Recruteur的

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主厨Antonin Bonnet 工作后，这个团队热切地想 要推出一个新项目，并最终决定开一家由Patricia Urquiola设计的意大利餐厅。当Naudon找到了合 适的选址，他同意从同一位业主那里购买几处其他 的物业，La Jeune Rue就这样诞生了。他承认自己有 一点被这个想法冲昏了头脑，竟然在一年不到的时 间里购买下37处物业。 在与Bonnet合作期间，Naudon与农民和手工 艺生产商的接触激发了他向人们展示可持续和有道 德感的食物。Naudon及其合作者的座右铭是“更好 地生产，更好地饮食，更好地生活”。他们就是想将 这样的理念带给巴黎人——无论是居民还是到访的 旅游者。在这个项目的发布仪式上，这个团队如此说 道： “掌管La Jeune Rue的梦想是以人为本的。它根 植于我们最热爱的价值观，根植于环境，并塑造了我 们身后最宝贵的东西，那就是未来。” 这个据说至今已经耗费了3000万欧元的项目 招致了一些争议。批评人士称，计划修建的商店和 餐厅不能够满足本地人的需求，其他人则在嘲笑 Naudon梦想的规模。然而，这个项目的团队敏锐地 指出La Jeune Rue没有精英式的愚蠢，这里只是一 个美食爱好者们可以与生产商见面、交易和分享的 地方，每一件商品都会以合理的价格出售。 La Jeune Rue符合伦理道德的经营方式吸引了 一些世界上顶级创意人才的支持。 “让都市人可以获 得有道德感的食物，让他们可以与法国食品生产商 面对面而不通过任何中介，这样的野心直接就让我 们信服了。”Campana兄弟说，他们为这个项目设计 了一间酒吧和一家鱼餐厅。Navone也同样被这个想 法所震动，并立刻被它吸引了。 “我想开展对话，让行 业遇见工艺，让手工还具有影响力， ”她说。 随着一些餐厅已经开张，还有一些计划在2015 年和2016年开张，Naudon的理想主义项目正在 逐渐成形。其结果将会是一个时尚美食圣地，为食 物——可以说是法国最重要的奢侈品——提供一 个新家。

lajeunerue.com 56: Brave New World 美丽新世界 历史悠久的法国时尚公司路易威登与这个国家最有 远见的设计师之一开展了一项创意合作伙伴关系， 将该品牌引入让人兴奋的新领域。Harriet Quick 报道 目前，奢侈品时尚公司的首要目标是贴近我们的生 活方式，让人们拥有个性化的感觉，而这种使命感 就是路易威登的核心。作为世界上最著名的奢侈品 品牌之一，路易威登在全世界拥有超过460家店铺，

年收入约80亿欧元。为了赢得消费者的芳心和钱 包，LVMH集团CEO和主席Bernard Arnault签 下了我们这个时代最有才华和最富有远见的设计师 之一——Nicolas Ghesquière，他也是将品牌引向 下一个篇章的最佳人选。 路易威登的品牌标志已经无处不在，那么现在 它是如何开始改造自我的呢？试想一下，在2014年 夏末，您去巴黎布洛涅森林，手中拿着一个红色的 Epi皮革信封和一张手写的路易威登2015年春夏季 展示秀的邀请函，穿过郁郁葱葱的小径。透过树间， 您瞥见了全新的路易威登基金会大厦。由传奇建筑 师 Frank Gehry打造的这座大楼拥有高耸的玻璃和 帆船形状的钢筋结构。您，和其他几百位贵宾一起， 步入一个由几百束迷离光线映射的秀场。 秀的开场是一系列LED全息图，俊男靓女似乎 从幻境中悠然走出。 “路易威登想要探索的是原地 不动就可以游历整个宇宙的可能性。”他们的声音 萦绕秀场，渐渐地Simon & Garfunkel让人难以忘 怀的旋律《寂静之声》响彻大厅。观众们情绪高涨， 充满了期待。 接着走出来的是超模 Jean Campbell，她穿了 一袭白色的蕾丝针织连衣裙，手拿一只牛仔蓝Epi皮 手袋。然后登场的是一系列充满怀旧色彩的服装，如 短款小夹克、用鳗鱼皮精心缝制的皮裙、完美剪裁 的真丝牛仔喇叭裤和花卉图案的丝绒套装。在手袋 方面，有绗缝包、条纹包和展开就可以变成旅行枕头 的大折叠手拿包。拼缝的踝靴和光碟耳环也同样让 人印象深刻。一场看似为复古拼贴会的秀现在忽然 变得恰到好处，让人欲罢不能。短款丝绒夹克和活 泼的衣裙下摆让人心跳加速。 过去、未来与现在，熟悉的与陌生 的：Ghesquière在融合各种想法上有着惊人的天 赋。 “从个人的角度来说，我觉得每个人都有关于路 易威登的小故事——这个世界上最大的品牌可以变 得非常人性化，可以打动人心，想到这点就让人很有 感触， ”Ghesquière说， “从外部的角度来看，路易威 登是一个非常有力量和具有代表性的品牌。但是从 另一方面来说，这也是因为具有这样的感情存在。我 就有一个母亲留给我的旧LV包，一个手提箱。” 当Ghesquière开始设计一个未来传世系列 时，出现在他脑海里的就是这款特别的包。这个包 包系列包含了“迷你旅行箱”Mini Trunk，重现了 在19世纪的巴黎让路易威登名声大躁的那款旅行 箱。Doc包拥有一个单手柄设计和路易威登招牌的 圆柱形造型。链条手袋和为2015年春夏季设计的折 叠手袋预示了一个新风尚系列的开始。 Ghesquière的前任者Marc Jacobs重新树立了 品牌的时尚信誉，发布了成衣系列并推出了大片级 别的时装秀。Ghesquière的做法则被认为更加“法 国”。出身于法国西北部一个小镇上的中产阶级家

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庭，Ghesquière明白需要重新领导品牌的理想诉 求。毕竟，他曾经花了16年的时间将一度处于垂死 边缘的巴黎世家( Balenciaga)转变成为形象塑造和 引领潮流的时尚巨头。对于他而言，路易威登是属 于资产阶级的，但是也可以变得很酷；它有历史传 统，却也为未来做准备。Ghesquière说： “它是冒险 之家。” 让奢侈品时尚贴近生活、变得更加个性化从根 本上是关于传递伟大的设计。一个没有实质性内容 的标志将会毫无意义。真正理解新路易威登的最好 方式就是跟随时尚编辑的步伐前往巴黎，在店内探 索这个最新系列，并前往布洛涅森林和路易威登基 金会画廊。置身于艺术品、标志性商标和手袋之中， 你一定会发现这个经典法国大牌的魅力。 louisvuitton.com

86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 畅购全球，尊享退税 当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店消费时， 环球蓝联（Global Blue）购物退税服务（Tax Free Shopping）为您节约购物开销。 每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝联（Global B lue ）获得购物退税，您怎能错 过？您要 做的只 是寻找蓝星标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联 （Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们简单的退税过 程：

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taxfree@globalblue.com +421 232 111 111 最低消费€175.01可节约购买价格平均12%的税。请 注意：最终退款将包含增值税总额，但是要扣除管 理手续费。部分机场还将以退税申请表为单位收取 现金退税手续费。

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日本語翻訳 42: Beauty Calls 美の呼び声 ユニークで極上の作品を創りたいという願いが機能 性追求のニーズに打ち勝って、オートクチュールの 世界は復活を遂げつつある。ベス・ドゥルースがレポ ートする。 19世紀にパリ初の近代的ファッションハウスをオー プンしたシャルル・フレデリック・ウォルトは、服づく りの哲学だけでなく、それを実現するための機関「パ リ・クチュール組合」も確立した。1868年創設で今 は最近設立された「フランス・オートクチュール・プレ タポルテ連合協会」の一部を成すこの組合は、どの ファッションハウスがクチュールの名にふさわしいか を認定する。長年にわたって規則の洗練と体系化が 行われ、従業員数からシーズンごとに製作する服の 数まで多岐にわたる厳しい基準によって、誰がただ の「クチュリエ」で誰がまさしく「グラン・クチュリエ」 の称号にふさわしいかが決められる。 しかし、こうした要件の厳しさが仇となり、21世 紀初頭には多くのメンバーが脱落。1952年当時は 60軒あったオートクチュールは、2000年までにはわ ずか1８軒まで減ってしまっていた。2002年にイヴ・ サンローランが引退した後は、基準を少し緩めたに もかかわらず12軒が残るだけとなった。生き残った のはシャネル、クリスチャン・ディオール、ジャン・ポー ル・ゴルチェ、ジバンシーなど。いずれも屈強なファ ッションハウスで、事業環境の移り変わりを乗り越え る力を持っていた。ただ、オートクチュールの終焉の 予言は時期尚早だった。2012年にラフ・シモンズが ディオールの舵を握ったが、彼の洗練されたエレガ ンスの評判は現代におけるクチュールの新たな夜明 けを予感させた。 この現代化は既製服産業の進化も背景にある。 既製服の価格帯が上がり品質レベルも向上したこと で、クチュールも変わらざるを得なくなったのだ。フ ァッションと高級品の世界的スペシャリスト、レイチ ェル・ウォードはクチュール産業の衰退期を自然な 変態に必要な段階だったとみている。 「クチュールが 衰退し、危うく消滅しそうになったのは、ちょうど機 械の品質が上がって職人技が姿を消そうとしていた のと同じ頃でした。ですが、その後正統派が大々的 に復活したのです」と、ウォードは説明する。 この復活は様々なレベルで見られた。再興を遂 げた歴史あるブランド、スキャパレリでクリエイティ ブ・ディレクターを務めたマルコ・ザニーニは意外な テーマと色の組み合わせを披露した。灰緑色の狐の

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毛皮にカジュアルなヒョウ柄プリントのブーティー、 ネズミや蛾、リスをモチーフにしたプリントドレスなど だ。オランダ人デュオのヴィクター＆ロルフは、ファッ ション界のセレブ好きを地で行くような2014/15年 秋冬コレクションを披露。どのルックスも、赤じゅう たんのドレープに身を包んだモデルが主役だった。 もう一つの現象はクチュールの「カジュアル化」 だ。シャネルのカール・ラガーフェルドがその急先鋒 で、気取らないスニーカー、スカートにツイードのテイ ラード・サイクリングパンツの組み合わせ、斜め掛け のバッグが特徴的だった。こうしたカジュアルなディ テールはクチュールに活気をもたらしている。だが、 クチュールがクチュールたる所以は別にある。 「彼の 作品には若々しさがあるけれど、カーラ（デルヴィー ニュ）やジョーダン（ダン）でなくても誰が着ても生 き生きして見える」と、ファッション映像を製作する ショー・スタジオのルー・ストッパードは評する。 イタリア有数のファッション評論家アンジェロ・ フラッカヴェントは、現代におけるクチュールの意義 は発明だという。 「メゾン・マルタン・マルジェラのア ーティザナルやヴァレンティノをはじめとして、発明 の証拠がいくつかのコレクションに見られました。創 造の自由と手先の器用さを純粋に楽しんでいるのが ありありわかる作品、有用なだけでなく単純に美しい 服です。」フラッカヴェントが「発明家」だと評するジ ャンバティスタ・ヴァリの名も挙がった。純粋な美の 追求で賞賛を集めるクチュール界の新星だ。 一方、注文する側はどうだろう。オートクチュー ルといえば、かつてはヨーロッパのファッション通が 中心だったが、今やアジア太平洋地域、中東、ロシア といった新興市場からの需要が増えている。その結 果、各ファッションハウスとも常に変化する客層の需 要に応えようとし、クチュールのサイクル全体が従来 とは違ったものになっている。ただでさえ過酷なこ の世界にまた一つ要求が加わったわけで、改めてク チュール業の難しさを思い知らされる。 「現代のクチ ュールハウスは、私にとっては伝統のサヴォアフェー ル（ノウハウ）と今をとらえようとする鋭い注意力の 合体です」と、フラッカヴェントは説明する。 「職人 技と革新のバランスをとり、テイストにおいても手法 においても真にユニークなものを追求する。現代ク チュールハウスは、夢としてのファッションの最後の 砦なのです。」 考えさせられる言葉だが、既にあるオートクチュ ールと既製服のダイナミックな関係も忘れてはならな い。ウォードいわく、 「今日のファッションは、偉大さ を思い出させてくれるものとしてオートクチュールが 常にあったからこそ。古典文学が必要とされたり、ど んなジャンルでも傑作が必要なのと同じです。オート クチュールが今あるファッションのシステムにとって

代われるわけではありませんが、その高潔さはそれ なりに必要な持久力を備えています。」ファッション 業界を絶えず引っ張っていくのは、実はこの「必要な 持久力」なのではないだろうか。

modeaparis.com 50: Food For Thought 想像力をかきたてる食の街 そこは、創る者の壮大なビジョンと完璧なテイスト から生まれたパリ最新の食道楽の街。グウィネス・ ホランドが、ラ・ジュヌ・リュー誕生のストーリーを 追った。 コンセプトストアというアイデア自体は何ら目新し いものではないが、ラ・ジュヌ・リュー（La Jeune Rue）はこの概念をさらに一歩進めた。通り全体 が、羨望のフランス食文化を讃えるコンセプトスト リートなのだ。北マレ地区にあるラ・ジュヌ・リュー（ 「若い通り」の意）は、実はヴェールボワ通り（rue du Vertbois）、ヴォルタ通り（rue Volta）、ノート ルダム・ドゥ・ナザレス通り（rue Notre-Dame-deNazareth）という3本の通りのネットワークだ。ラ・ジ ュヌ・リューという名前は、ギヨーム・アポリネールの 詩の一節、 「ここは若い通り。まだ赤ん坊で、母親は 青と白しか着せてくれない」に由来する。 このエリアは美食家の街としてデザインされ、吟 味された美しいバーやレストラン、ショップがひしめ き合う。ラ・ジュヌ・リューの創始者で謎めいた億万 長者のセドリック・ノードンは、ここを「グルメの夢、 文化的刺激、社会的プロジェクト」と呼んだ。一方、 彼のコラボレーションパートナーであるビハインド・ ザ・シーン（Behind the Scene）は、 「単なる通りで はなく架け橋。食べ物屋と文化イベントが路上で出 会い、歩行者や地元住民、旅行者の心を和ませる生 活空間」だという。 この高尚な野望を遂げるため、ノードンはこの エリアの店舗45軒を買い上げた。食通が喜ぶ店が既 に入居し始めている。新規オープンする店はいずれ も、メニューに並ぶ食べ物に負けず劣らず魅力的な インテリアデザイナーが手掛けている。大物デザイ ナーのトム・ディクソンが魚屋のデザインを監督し、 モダンミニマリストのジャスパー・モリソンがその先 のタパスバーを担当するといった具合だ。韓国ストリ ートフードのレストランでは、イタリアのデザイナー、 パオラ・ナヴォーネが大理石などの高級資材に日常 的なプラスチック編みや欠けた白タイルを組み合わ せたインテリアを創り出した。 ノードンは次にオープンする一連の文化や食の 店についても、クリエイティブ界の大物を揃えてい

PHOTO: © LA JEUNE RUE

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る。マーク・アンゲのデザインによる屋根付きフード マーケット、スタジオ・ジョブ流のクレペリー、日本人 建築家のネンドが手掛けるベーカリー、ウォールペー パーマガジンのコンセプトストア、建築家アンドレア・ ブランジが設計した映画館、アートライターのジュリ ー・ブーコブザが経営するギャラリー等々。 まさに壮大な計画だが、型どおりの戦略という より、むしろ偶然の幸運と直感から生まれたものだ。 評判のレストラン「ル・セルジャン・ルクリュトゥー ル」でシェフのアントナン・ボネと仕事したチームは、 新たなプロジェクトを開始したいと思い、パトリシア・ ウルキオラのデザインでイタリアンレストランを創る ことに決めた。理想的な立地を探し出してきたノー ドンが、その物件の持ち主から他に数件の物件を購 入することで合意したのがラ・ジュヌ・リューの始まり だ。ノードンはその思い付きにちょっと夢中になり過 ぎて、一年間になんと37件もの不動産を買ってしま ったと告白している。 ボネとの仕事を通じて農家やアルチザン生産 者と知り合ったノードンは、持続可能で倫理的な食 物を中心に据えようと考えた。ノードンとそのコラボ パートナーたちのモットーは「良いものを作り、良い ものを食べ、良く生きる」。この哲学を、住民と来訪 者の両方を含めたパリの人々に伝えたいと思ったの だ。 「ラ・ジュヌ・リューにあふれる夢は人間的な夢」 だと、チームはプロジェクト発表時に宣言した。 「私 たちが最も愛する価値である環境に根を張り、私た ちが遺す最も貴重なものである未来を形作る」のだ という。 現在までのコストが約3000万ユーロといわれる このプロジェクトは、物議をかもしている。批評家は 計画されているショップやレストランは地元民のニー ズに合わない」と非難し、ノードンの夢のスケールを 笑う者もいる。しかし、このプロジェクトを支えるチー ムは、ラ・ジュヌ・リューはエリートの道楽などではな く、食に対して情熱的な人々が生産者と出会い、取 引をして分かち合う場であり、全品が公正価格で売 globalblue.com

られる場なのだと熱弁する。 ラ・ジュヌ・リューの倫理的なアプローチに惹 かれた世界有数のクリエーターも何人かいる。 「仲 買人を介さず、倫理的な商品やフランスの食を作る 人々に触れる機会を都会人に与えるという構想を聞 き、すぐ乗り気になった」というのは、このプロジェク トでバー付きの魚料理店を設計しているカンパナ兄 弟だ。ナヴォーネもそのアイデアに感心し、すぐさま 参加した。 「産業が職人と出会う場所、人の手が依 然モノをいう場所で会話を始めるのが好き」と、彼 女は言う。 既に数件のレストランがオープンし、2015年か ら2016年にかけてさらに数件がオープン予定で、ノ ードンの理想的プロジェクトは着実に形になりつつ ある。フランス最高の贅沢ともいえる食をスタイリッ シュな環境で楽しめる新名所が生まれそうだ。

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56: Brave New World 果敢に切り開く新世界 歴史あるフランスのファッションハウスとこの国きっ ての先見的デザイナーが創造のパートナーシップを 組んでエキサイティングな領域へと踏み出したルイ・ ヴィトンを、ハリエット・クイックがレポートする。 今、高級ファッション各社が力を入れているのが、現 代人のライフスタイルにあったパーソナル感覚のブラ ンドになることだ。世界有数の高級ブランドで年商 約80億ユーロ、世界中に460を超える店舗を展開す るルイ・ヴィトンでも、それを中核的使命にしている。 現代人の心と財布に届く商品を創るため、LVMHグ ループのCEOベルナルド・アルノーは、今世代きって の才能と先見性を備えたデザイナー、ニコラ・ゲスキ エールを機用した。レーベルの歴史に新たな章を加 えるのに最適の人材だ。 ただ、ルイ・ヴィトンはどこにいてもそのロゴを 見かけるほどお馴染みのブランド。それをいかに刷 新していくのかが注目されるところだ。まずは、2014 年夏のパリ、ブローニュの森へ想像の旅をしよう。赤 のエピ・レザーのエンヴェロープ型バッグを小脇に 抱え、2015年春夏ルイ・ヴィトン発表会への手書き の招待状を手に緑豊かな小道をいく自分を想い浮 かべてみよう。木立の合間に「フォンダシオン ルイ・ ヴィトン」が垣間見える。伝説的建築家フランク・ゲ ーリーの設計で新設されたガラスと鉄鋼製の帆形 の建築物だ。他の大勢の招待客と共に、数百もの光 のビームに照らされたミステリアスなギャラリーへと 降りていく。 ショーは一連のLEDに照らされてどこからとも

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なく現れるホログラムの若い男女の群像で幕を開け る。 「ルイ・ヴィトンは、移動することなく宇宙のどこ へでも旅できる可能性を追求しています」というアナ ウンスが流れ、サイモン＆ガーファンクルが歌うサウ ンド・オブ・サイレンスの耳に残るメロディが流れ出 す。観客は期待感でざわついている。 そこへ、白のレースニットのミニドレスをまとい、 デニムブルーのエピ・レザーのハンドバッグを持った ったモデルのジーン・キャンベルが歩み出る。続い て、なんとなくノスタルジックな感じの衣装の数々。 目玉は小ぶりのクロップトジャケット、イールスキンを ストライプ状に丁寧に縫合したレザーのスカート、完 璧なカットのシルクデニムのフレア、花柄プリントの ベルベットのスーツだ。キルトやストライプのバッグ、 折り曲げると旅行用枕にもなるフォールドオーバーの 大型クラッチ、パッチワークのアンクルブーツ、ディス ク型イヤリングと、一見レトロっぽいアイテムがいか にも今風で欲しくなる。丈の短いベルベットのジャケ ットやフレアは、ハッとするほど魅力的だ。 過去と現在と未来、馴染みあるルックスと新し さ。ゲスキエールはアイデアを融合させる才能に長け ている。 「個人的レベルで見ると、誰にでもルイ・ヴ ィトンに関わるちょっとしたストーリーがあります。世 界最大のブランドが感動と人間味豊かな愛着の対象 となり得ることが、心にじんと来ますね」とゲスキエ ールは語っている。 「外見はこんなにもパワフルで象 徴的でありながら、裏を返せばこうした愛着がありま す。僕も母から譲り受けた古いルイ・ヴィトンを持っ ていました。何でも入る大型バッグです。」 ゲスキエールが後の世代に受け継がれるような 新たな商品レンジを創り始めた時に思いをはせたの が、まさにこのバッグだった。こうしてデザインされた 数々のバッグの中に、19世紀のパリでルイ・ヴィトン の評判を不動のものにした旅行用トランクを再現し たミニ・トランクがある。ドクターズバッグはヴィトン の代表作である筒形バッグを思わせるシングルハン ドルのデザインで、2015年春夏のチェーンハンドル バッグやフォールドオーバーバッグは、新スタイルシ リーズの誕生を予感させる。 ゲスキエールの前任者であるマーク・ジェイコブ スは、ファッション界におけるこのレーベルの威信 を再び確立し、既製服コレクションを発表し、大が かりなキャットウォークショーを導入したが、ゲスキ エールのアプローチはもっと「フランス的」と言える。 フランス北西部の小さな町で中産階級の家庭に生 まれたゲスキエールは、憧れのブランドとしてのヴィ トンの魅力を刷新する必要があることを理解してい る。何しろ、かつては瀕死のファッションハウスだっ たバレンシアガを16年の歳月をかけてイメージ作り に長けたトレンドセッターへと変貌させた凄腕だ。

彼にとって、ルイ・ヴィトンはブルジョアでありながら 洗練された魅力にあふれ、歴史がありながら未来 志向のブランドで、 「冒険できるファッションハウス」 だという。 高級ファッションを今風でパーソナルなものに することは、基本的には素晴らしいデザインを世に 送り出すこと。ロゴが付いていても実質が伴わなくて は意味がない。新しいルイ・ヴィトンを本当に理解す るための最良の方法は、ファッションエディターに倣 ってパリへ赴き、店頭でコレクションを吟味し、ブロ ーニュの森へ出かけて「ファンダシオン ルイ・ヴィト ン」ギャラリーを訪ねることだ。芸術的な作品や象徴 的なロゴ、ハンドバッグなどが並ぶ中に、いかにもフ ランス的なこのスーパーブランドの魅力を見いだせる こと請け合いだ。

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86: When You Shop The World, Shop Tax Free 海外でのお買い物が免税に グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度をご利 用いただきますと、世界各地の有名ショッピング街に ある27万軒を超える加盟店でのお買い物がお得に なります。 年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバル・ブルー の免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜひご利用ください。 手続きは簡単。まず、青い星を目印に加盟店を探し ます。星が見当たらなければ、店員に「グローバル・ ブルー？」とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを 踏むだけです。

1.お買い物 お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブルーの免 税書類（タックスフリー・フォーム）を受け取ってくだ さい。レシートを保管するのも忘れずに。 2.還付請求 ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシートに承認 印を押してもらってから、グローバル・ブルーの還付 事務所で払い戻しを受けます。 €175.01以上のお買い物をすれば、購入価格の平均 12％の払い戻しが受けられます。最終的な払い戻し 額は、付加価値税（VAT）合計から事務手数料を 差し引いた金額となりますので、その旨ご了承くださ い。 一部の空港で現金での即時払い戻しをご希望 の場合は、取り扱い手数料が免税書類ごとに課され ます。

98 | P RO D U C T S

SOUVENIR

LASTING IMPRESSION Founded in 1849, luxury luggage maker Moynat is one of fashion’s best-kept secrets, serving the needs of a discerning clientele.

After opening its frst workshop in Paris, the company won multiple awards, fled patents galore and pioneered trunk design during the early years of automobile travel. Relaunched in 2011 with an elegant new boutique in rue Saint-Honoré, the brand is now a thoroughly contemporary purveyor of luggage and leather Save an average of 12% by shopping tax free, see page 86

goods – with a recent Pharrell Williams collaboration to boot. Take this exquisite city bag in crocodile leather, for example. Made to order, it is a culmination of nearly 170 years of craftsmanship. Its classic shape and colour means that it transcends the seasons, making it a timeless accessory for the modern woman. th Moynat bag, price on request, Moynat, 348 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris, +33 (0)1 4703 8390, moynat.com * for map go to page 77

THE PARIS ADDRESS FOR WATCHES

12, boulevard des Capucines, Paris 9e | bucherer.com